Best shelf liners according to redditors
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best shelf liners. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 232 Reddit comments discussing the best shelf liners. We ranked the 86 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
[It's like you guys aren't even trying to save money] (https://www.amazon.com/Non-Skid-Cabinet-Shelves-Non-Slip-12-Inch/dp/B00IXYIWC8/ref=sr_1_10?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1485932223&sr=1-10&keywords=shelf+liner)
If I may make a suggestion as someone who's bought a similar unit, buy this and line your bottoms with them: https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Premium-Non-Adhesive-Non-Slip-12-Inches/dp/B001AH8PLI
It will help prevent things from sliding off and also help keep your white shelves clean for a longer period of time.
Well, if you're going to gut the kitchen down the line, definitely not worth replacing a brand-new working appliance. I had all kinds of plans to replace this and that when I bought my house and now it's like, well if it works ... ha. Also! I just saw your note about the not-matching white dishwasher and behold, stainless steel contact paper:
https://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Creative-Self-Adhesive-18-Inches-Stainless/dp/B001V98IRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486965574&sr=8-1&keywords=stainless+steel+contact+paper
I used it on my dishwasher and it looks fabulous: https://scontent-ord1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/16123422_366650047040002_5085902827981635584_n.jpg
I am a little touchy about non-standard appliances as I had a hell of a time with my new house. I could strangle the old owners for installing an under-sink DW instead of a regular one.
Get a shelf liner (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAJ5AYO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and just put it on the bench whenever you bench. It's been incredible for me
Not with those wrinkles...
It's somethign like this..
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Adhesive-Contact-Paper/dp/B000KKIR0A
Get a roll of drawer liner. Works wonders.
I cut a square and fold it twice so it's 4 layers thick. Just put that between the battery and the frame. It squishes down and grips really well. On some of my quads I also wrap a thin strip around the battery to provide more friction between the battery and the strap.
May I make a suggestion? I'm going to guess that those have a tendency to slip and slide on your table. Get a roll of drawer grip liner and place your tiles on that. During gameplay as you move minis around the tiles should stay put. I hope that helps!
I saw a similar post like this last November and I used that for Christmas presents. Too bad I didn't take any pictures, but it was very simple and fun. Instead of tape, I used clear, one-sided shelf liner. It is great because it is measured out on the paper. I then taped my shapes on top and traced with an X-Acto. I didn't compare with tape, but I felt that the edges would be finer with the method I used. On another note, be careful with that Armor Etch. It WILL eat up porcelain sinks. I didn't have an issue with it mixing in running water, just don't leave it in the sink or on a brush on the side.
Non Slip Liner my friend. The stuff works awesome, It's cheap, non permanent and tacky as hell. I use it on my desk, but I've wrapped it around a book and placed the hotas on it and by my sides, it works man.
http://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Shelf-Liner-Faux-Stainless/dp/B001V98IRQ that exists??? why?! People really do this?
Five bucks on Amazon, white contact paper. That's even dry erase. Just wrap it around the sides and back if someone wants.
I just know it as drawer liner. Any homegoods store will have it, Target/Wal-Mart/Meijer/etc. they make the same stuff for tool boxes but it is 5x as expensive and I can't figure out the difference.
The best thing you could do is wash your cabinets regularly with a good all-purpose cleaner like Lysol or soapy water and a microfiber cloth (approximately once a week to every few weeks). Also, make sure to wipe everything dry afterwards as a moist environment will aid bacterial growth. Here's a pretty good article that runs down properly cleaning cabinets. And though it's often not recommended, using a low percentage (3-5%) bleach solution probably isn't a horrible idea if you do it infrequently (it shouldn't damage the wood that much if you clean it properly). However, never use bleach on stainless steel because it pits the steel and may lead to increased bacterial growth in the long run.
There are also shelf liners made of antimicrobial materials that you can use inside the cabinets. As to actual wood treatments that would aid in antibacterial resistance, I'm afraid I'm not aware of any on the market. There's stuff like Silverban and melamine resin (often used in laminate flooring) that have good antimicrobial properties, but I'm not aware of any consumer products in terms of wood treatments for kitchen cabinets.
If you get the blank white cardboad boxes, you can decorate them and then cover them in contact paper to protect the outsides.
I have a friend who bought those mats that you use in the kitchen (or office or anywhere really) and placed it under their pad to keep it from sliding. Maybe that will work for you too? http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Shelf-Drawer-Liner-Black/dp/B000KFSOFI
Similar product: shelf liner
Shelf liner available at grocery stores and Dollar Stores.
Are you using cricut transfer tape? If so, go to get contact paper instead. It isn’t very sticky. Won’t stick to paper as much but takes more patience for vinyl application.
slotted spoons for removing times from broth, creamy sauces such as baked beans, and vegetables from steamed bags or out of pots of water.
it sounds crazy but a silicone cookie spatula like this one is a wonder in the kitchen. (and I don't bake cookies) We have blown through about 4 of these now. cause we use them for everything!
https://www.amazon.com/OXO-1147100-Silicone-Cookie-Spatula/dp/B001QTVT4K/ref=sr_1_4?
I hate hate hate when my cutting board slips around when I am trying to cut, chop etc. so I bought this stuff cut to fit under my cutting boards and use it all the time. you can get a small roll of this stuff at Walmart for about 3 dollars
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07DQB1Z2R/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?
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I also use tongs all the time and have thought everyone else to use them also. great for fries, picking up anything hot out of a skillet turning over things you can't grab with your hands, etc.
I have some like this for my nonstick pans (so I don't scratch them)
https://www.amazon.com/Kitchen-Silicone-Non-Stick-Stainless-Grilling/dp/B074WB5D79/ref=sr_1_8?
and some of these for my stainless steel pans and the grill
https://www.amazon.com/Hotec-Stainless-Steel-Kitchen-Tongs/dp/B0749KYFXX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?
As someone who plays on an ION drumpad in a 3rd floor apartment, I know your pain. These are my 3 fixes.
crappy decayingrubber pads with some mesh heads. You'll never be happier. They're a good 50% more quiet, and they feel great to play on.If you have problems with the board sliding around, or just want to protect the table, you can get some shelf liner from a hardware store (or Amazon) to lay under the plywood.
I have a piece of shelf/drawer liner on my desk under my surface for this same problem. It keeps it from slipping around, but you have a mat on your desk then.
https://www.amazon.com/Seville-Classics-Shelf-Liners-Pack/dp/B00EUBA55K/ref=zg_bs_3744211_2/159-1728673-9987106
yeah but like this
http://www.amazon.com/Kittrich-15F-C6B82-01-Con-Tact-Covering-Contact/dp/B000KKMOFO/ref=pd_sim_hg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WHSQ76NH4XG48SJ3JNV
or
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Adhesive-Contact-Paper/dp/B000KKIR0A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=13B8X37BGGTKED5MFFZW
I have the amFilm glass screen protector and I found it made it easier to slide my finger across. The plastic screen was kinda sticky before I put my protector on.
I found playing with three fingers helps greatly. I'm left handed so my middle finger takes care of the left side and my index finger takes care of the middle so when you have splits that alternate between a center notes and a pairs, you barely move your hands. Or when the song starts with a center hold note and then puts one of the note on the wrong side.
After I started playing on Special, I had to set up a little station to get good scores. I got something like this to put my Switch on. It stops the Switch for sliding around. It will make hitting the blue slides easier. There has to be another trick that I'm missing though because there are some songs that I can't imagine hitting them perfect, like Until the Blue Moon Rises. Those slides get crazy.
Outside of that, just try and try get all perfects on lower difficulties and increase the drop speed of the notes. The game requires a lot of practice.
Well making stencils is easy, all you need is an idea, an exacto-knife, and a heavy material. There's material specifically for stencils out there, but I haven't tried anything like it out yet. I recently bought a roll of self adhesive laminate that I used to make this painting which worked very well. They only problem I had was that it gets a bit unwieldy (most noticeably when doing the outlines) and I needed a hand or two to get it in the right location. The Adhesive cuts down the need for excess tape and weighing down, but you only really get one or two good sticks, and if you peel it quickly you might take a little paint off (if you haven't completely let it set (which I have a bad habit of doing)).
You could put some of the cupboard grippy material on the bottom of the titles.
This stuff
It’s grippy without being tacky and leaving any residue and you can easily cut it to fit under the base of your tile.
You could even just a lay a couple sheets down and place the tiles on top of them.
I highly recommend making a mat out of non slip shelving grip. Something similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AH8PLI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_a8D0xbYN4VDAQ
I picked it up cheap at Walmart, cut it appropriately, and our group appreciates it. Much less slip then felt (which I also grabbed from a fabric store first) .
So, it's this but more expensive?
http://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Brand-Self-Adhesive-Shelf-Liner/dp/B00D8GBO2G
I had same problem. I used privacy film contact paper. Let’s lots of light through. https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Covering-Self-Adhesive-Privacy-18-Inches/dp/B00D8GBO2G?th=1&psc=1
Easy to apply and you can get in different widths. I just did bottom half of windows and left top clear.
> damp paper towel
Even better, buy some non-slip shelf liner, like this stuff, and cut it to fit. Lasts forever and you don't have to get it wet.
Get some fabric paint, some contact paper, and an exacto knife. A design like this is super easy and can be done in one night. You can get cheap plain tshirts at walgreens or michaels etc.
We tried 2 things: Buy some strong shelve plastic and wrap it around the xpen so they can't stick their feet to climb out.
Or make a "top" of cardboard so it's facing inwards. It acts like a visual and physical blocker so they can't climb out the top.
Here's my xpens: http://imgur.com/a/NMcCO. The cardboard top works better, IMO, cause the pup can still see you. But... it's a bitch and a half to make. The clear plastic isn't very "clear".
Warning: Don't leave her alone in the xpen unsupervised until you redo the xpen. Ours got his foot stuck once on the top bar while he was trying to jump over. He was dangling upside down for a second before I ran over to him.
EDIT: If your pup isn't a chewer, another option is a fabric play pen
You can buy silver contact paper for the same purpose...
https://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Creative-Self-Adhesive-18-Inches-Stainless/dp/B001V98IRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487000335&sr=8-1&keywords=silver+contact+paper
Sure. Pulling the nib out was easy enough. I just used some non-slip shelving material to get a good grip on the nib and gave a decent tug.
The feed can only go in one way, it seems. You can just turn the feed around until it aligns with whatever channels are in the grip section and then it'll slide in easily.
Don't have the new nib yet, but hopefully this experiment works out.
Yeah so the back of the Dynamat is adhesive so I line the bottom of the case with it, then I put a layer of trayliner above it just for added softness underneath the pcb. Links to both are below:
Dynamat
Drawerliner not trayliner sorry, I always say the wrong thing
This stuff is way easier.
Clear contact paper
Or, you know
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IXYIWC8
One of these will do the exact same thing
Put a new piece of contact paper on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Adhesive-Contact-Paper/dp/B000KKIR0A
I agree with what everyone has said. Tent on the inside of the pack.
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If you must have the tent on the outside, go and buy some of this and wrap it around the outside of the tent. It will stop it slipping - https://www.amazon.com/Non-Skid-Drawer-Cabinet-Shelves-Non-Slip/dp/B00IXYIWC8
Or buy some Voile Straps and secure it with those - https://www.voile.com/voile-straps.html
Wet towel underneath.
Or a shelf liner
edit. to give you a better example
Whiteboard contact paper exists. I used it on a cabinet panel in my kitchen to write the week's meal plans on. It's 20ft by 10in for $4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OC58ZN8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It doesn't erase super cleanly, but after a couple months, it's clean enough. Could possibly be a contender.
Chalkboard paper exists too, and another option with chalk pens.
I had this problem today actually. I bought this shelf liner a few weeks ago to lay down on the bench to keep my shoulders from slipping, and I wrapped it around the bar during squats and it was like the bar was glued to my back.
I am going to guess Contact Paper?
One thing I actually miss on electronics is that faux wood paneling that was on things like TVs and receivers in the 80s to early 90s. So I actually really like what OP has done here, and might do it myself one day to a computer build.
This works better than a moist towel under the board.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408071638&sr=8-1&keywords=non-slip+shelf+liner
Some pictures can help with the identification of the species, though I hear that the Chinese mantis (T. Sinensis) is commonly given out to kids in some elementary schools.
In the likely case that you are housing T. Sinensis nymphs, it is important to note how prone this species is to mismolts when they are young. Nevertheless, a lot of people will still tell you they are a beginner specie (though certainly manageable). Since yours are still feeding off of fruit flies, they are still in the early instars and you should pay particular attention to humidity and the enclosure itself.
Humidity should be around 50% for these guys. Some members of the mantidforum suggest misting just enough so that any visible moisture on the walls evaporates within 30 minutes, but do not let the paper towel completely dry out. Anymore and you risk oversaturation. I have had a ghost nymph straight up drop dead from this (possibly due to fungal infection caused by excess moisture). As for how often, some people like to do it once every morning or once before bed time. It's up to preference, but I spray very lightly once in the morning and regularly at night. If I had to spray once a day, I would do it at night because that's when most will shed. Important thing is to keep the paper towel moist (but not soggy)!
As for your stick woes - never put outdoor collected wood in a pet's enclosure without sanitizing it either by oven baking at 200-250 degrees F for 2-3 hours or by using a bleach solution. You might not want what hatches out to get into your home, nevermind your mantis enclosure!
What I like to do is glue the netting that people often put on their lids onto the side of the 32oz cups. This way, the mantis get all around climbing surface and you eliminate the need for sticks that can potentially get in the way during an important molt.
These work well:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Phifer-36-in-x-84-in-Black-Pet-Screen-Kit-with-Spline-and-Roller-3025886/205001783
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI
The black netting can usually be found in very large rolls for under $10 in most hardware stores.
That said, fake plants are okay as long as there is plenty of room for molting.
*Edit: As they get larger, newer enclosures must accommodate their size. T. Sinensis grow pretty large (around 4"). The general rule for every mantis enclosure is twice it's length in width, and three times its length in height. This means that by adulthood, you are looking at an enclosure that is a rectangle of dimensions 8"x8"x12" or a cylinder with a radius of 4" by a height of 12", or of course another container of similar dimensions.
This link has a lot of helpful information about this specie:
http://mantidforum.net/forums/index.php?/topic/31349-tenodera-sinensis-chinese-mantis/
You could use kitchen cabinet liner likethis underneath it. I got mine in black from Walmart for $4. I put some under my keyboard and it keeps it stuck to my desk perfectly.
You could get a high-sided "liner pan" for that expensive cat box (it's beautiful!). Like this one. That may be a temporary solution to your long term problem. You could also cover the inside with a liner similar to the liner you put on cabinets like this? Basically you want to prevent that urine from touching the wood!
Here's a list of suggestions ordered by cost and required effort:
That was it. Con-Tact Brand Clear Matte
Nice video, definitely ambitious for a beginner! The curl highlights are an example of a look I would approach without masking fluid. It might take a little more time but with an accurate sketch and some careful dry brush technique you can preserve enough white to maintain that shiny look. While I encourage you to challenge yourself to improve brush technique, I realize this strategy might not appeal to everyone. It can be difficult to avoid the white areas — especially if you're still getting the feel for your brushes.
 
You have good instincts for the alternatives! White crayon works great as a wax resist. I have also seen people use candles and other waxes to do this. There are some drawbacks. You can't manipulate or remove the wax once it is on the paper and it keeps resisting so you can't easily paint over the top of it. Also, white wax is difficult to see on white paper (it does catch the light differently) — you can of course use other colors but the example you gave had page-white highlights. This technique is good for adding texture.
 
White gouache is also a good thought. Unless applied very thickly, white gouache won't be as bright as the original paper and can move around some when painted over. White watercolors also exist but tend to be less bright and more ready to mix and run after drying. There are also "liquid paper" products that come in a variety of different whites to match most watercolor papers, these dry permanent. A similar option is watercolor ground which is essentially a porous gesso that absorbs watercolor. The drawbacks are that these processes will take the paint a little differently than regular paper — Colors can seem more washed out and almost pastel though results will vary between methods, paints, brands. These are best for finishing touches or "oh shit" emergencies.
 
You can also use acrylics with watercolor. White acrylic over the top or acrylic medium as a resist before painting. I suggest using matte medium. Keep in mind that acrylic is basically plastic so it wont absorb water and has a tendency to stand out when used with watercolor.
 
The above techniques are the ones I would recommend for the specific challenge you mentioned, go with whatever makes you most comfortable but definitely try with only brushwork if you're at all inclined. I'll go ahead and list more of the resist & whitening methods I'm familiar with because one of them might appeal more to you.
 
/u/rulenumber303 mentioned gel pens. I think they work great for fine detail but aren't good for large areas. Most artists use Gelly Roll pens — many gel pen brands wont work well over watercolor.
 
You can also use tapes as a resist. This RollerBond product dispenses removable tape in thin lines. You can use some
Scotch 'Magic' Tape which forms a very hard line or masking tape/painters tape which has a slightly different line quality. For large areas you could try Frisket Film which is basically a friendlier form of Contact Paper. You can cut complex shapes out of most of these using an Exacto knife if needed. Remember to burnish (push down & rub smooth) for best results. These are good for straight lines, hard lines, or large areas.
 
Speaking of exacto knives, you can use them to scrape or scratch the paper to reveal the white beneath. Make sure you're using a thicker paper (e.g. 140lb, 300lb) and be careful not to paint over that area again because the paint will appear even darker than usual. This is a good technique for fine hairs or stars.
 
White watercolor pencils can be used but this tends to be faint and doesn't offer many advantages. It could be nice for a light texture somewhere.
 
There is a lot you can do with stencils. (cheesecloth, leaves, coins, w/e)
 
I've seen people use a lot of other random techniques involving things like white out or oil pastels. I haven't tried them but they're out there.
 
You've got a good attitude about creative limitations and as you can see there is no shortage of alternatives. I'm sure you've encountered many of these options in your searching but I thought I'd give you my opinions and you can decide what suits you best. I left out some wet resist techniques like adding water or alcohol because if you've made it this far you must be getting tired of reading by now. Let me know if you have any questions and if you want more specific recommendations just ask. Good luck!
Here's my setup.
I picked up a $10 3-drawer organizer and lined it with some grippy shelf liner. So far it has worked out pretty well. Much more accessible than stuffing them in a display case, but also a lot neater than randomly throwing them in a drawer. It just looks clean and tidy.
Fuck yeah.
On violins and cellos we use clear contact paper to protect high wear areas. The adhesive is easily removable with a bit of naptha if needed. Some cellists also have a cloth that hangs from the neck to protect and pad the area that contacts their chest.
Con-Tact Brand Clear Covering Self-Adhesive Semi-Transparent Privacy Film and Liner, 18'' x 20', Clear Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R8AWBJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IoBoDbAPGZH1S
https://www.google.com/search?q=cello+bib&oq=cello+bib&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l3.2518j0j9&client=ms-android-verizon&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
I just got a couple rolls of anti-slip cabinet liner and put down a layer of that between my table and a tablecloth. Works a treat, makes getting cards up a breeze, and keeps the cloth from sliding around.
This kinda stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Non-Skid-Drawer-Cabinet-Shelves-Non-Slip/dp/B00IXYIWC8
yes it could be too tight -
I think it could be that the frame isn't square - I has a similar issue when I first put on the z-brace - I managed to twist the entire frame by going too tight on one side - photos / video will help diagnose
I also found using a mat like this helped generally with ghosting / ringing - https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Premium-Non-Adhesive-Non-Slip-12-Inches/dp/B001AH8PLI
I use several different approaches.
For small parts (screws, bolts, etc) I keep one of these in my kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Ace-Trading-General-2198760-Magnetic/dp/B0029586ZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1300729892&sr=8-1
I also keep one attached to the outside of my tool box that I grab if I know I'm going to be pulling parts (I mostly use it for working on my car) so that I can attach it somewhere inside the car and toss the bolts in it.
I also line all my tool boxes with this (I have one smaller one for the car and one big one I keep in the apt):
http://www.amazon.com/Grip--Shelf-Drawer-Liner-Black/dp/B000KFSOFI/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1300729917&sr=1-3
It may not seem like an organizer, but it has enough grip that all the tools stay in position when placed on it, which is surprisingly helpful.
I use this for all my shallow and deep sockets:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00933932000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5
I have one for metric and one for standard. I like this one over the others because the top of each spike is cut at an angle and printed with the size, making it really easy to see when looking from above (like you would be when looking in a tool kit).
I put all of my specialty sockets (Allen, torque, triple-square, etc) in the older version of the device below (I like the new one more and will probably switch to it eventually):
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942331000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6
I keep my wrenches in their own drawer in one of these:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00965223000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
I've tried the foam that others have suggested, but I can never get it cut right to fit everything correctly. Also, you buy one new tool and all of a sudden the spacing etc. is all wrong. The top of my tool kit I pretty much keep all of my pliars etc, they only get semi-organized on the best of days :) There's just so many of them that they can't really be easily organized, which discourages doing any organization.
It's not plastic wrap, it's drawer liner. e.g.
how about getting a roll of the thin, foam shelf liner like this:
http://smile.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI?ie=UTF8&keywords=shelf%20liner&qid=1459357798&ref_=sr_1_1&s=kitchen&sr=1-1
I've seen it at the dollar store. You could try putting a large piece of liner on the seat, then the blanket. It's worth a try! Good luck!
I use clear plastic film like this. It's easy to draw the pattern on with a permanent marker and cut out and it sticks to the shirt really well.
I use rubberized shelf liner It's this sort of rubbery/grippy type material that you can buy almost anywhere (Target/K-Mart/Wal-Mart, probably hardware stores, maybe grocery stores) You can cut it into whatever size you want. Not only does it prevent slippery things like phones and tablets from sliding around, it also does a great job of dampening noises from vibrating things. I have some USB hard drives on my desk that are stacked on top of each other but the spinning hard drives cause the cases to vibrate together and make a really annoying (not very loud, but VERY annoying/distracting) buzzing noise. I cut a couple pieces of shelf liner to the same size as the hard drive cases and inserted a piece in between each drive, and now the vibration noises are gone!
hot glue gun these to underside of a rag rug and enjoy
One of the best mods i made to my Majestouch 2 is putting shelf liner under the pcb. It requires voiding your warranty however, as you have to remove a sticker to get to a screw on the bottom of the case but I had to open my case anyway to swap in the custom cable I ordered for mine. This is pretty much what you want, just put a layer or two in the bottom of the case once you remove the pcb, then just put the pcb and top case back on and screw back together.
I knew someone who would keep a long leather strap around his neck. He'd hook a curve of the strap to the waist of his fiddle. It's been a number of years, but I think it was the right lower sweep of the waist or beak. He could wander festivals this way and play at any moment without worrying about securing a shoulder rest. It worked well enough for him (he stayed in first position, used no vibrato), that he'd use it even in concerts and sessions.
I wouldn't recommend that over elastics and a cushion maybe covered with grippy material, since it offers no support, but your post reminded me of it.
Get some shelf liner and put that underneath it. If you're still pulling it, clamp it to one edge of the table (still with the shelf liner under it) and braid from the opposite edge.
Some people add little bits of velcro to the battery themselves. I don't love this as I just don't like sticking stuff to my batteries. However, this probably the most secure way of holding a battery in during a crash. Personally I use the anti-slip cabinet liner stuff since I had a bunch of that on hand. It works well(get the thicker stuff) but depending on your battery strap and the severity of the crash the battery can still pop out.
Our gym just has a bunch of shelf liners laying around that you can put on the bench and it makes it way grippier.
We put ours on top of a chest of drawers. I'd recommend putting a shelf liner (like this one) between the pad and dresser to keep it from moving around. As others have stated, never leave baby more than an arm's reach away or unattended.
I put the stones on an old lunch tray to keep the mess contained. To keep things from shifting, I put grippy shelf liner below the stones.
It is sort of like that. Maybe thinner. This is the stuff (sells locally everywhere).
A much better bang for your buck is to get a roll of non-skid shelf liner and cut to size. All sorts of things you can do with the leftovers, as well!
Not travel stickers, but a buddy of mine covers his laptop with stickers. He also replaces his laptop from time to time, and doesn't want to lose them. His solution is that when he gets a new laptop, he covers the back with a clear sticky covering (something like this). When he covers the laptop or gets a new one, he can peel off all the stickers, put them on the wall and start again.
As for me, I like to use stickers as a cheap way to remember that everything in life is impermanent. It's OK to put it on a water bottle that I'll eventually lose. It's just stuff.
Ah! I have an answer for this! And I'm pretty sure it's easier/less craft-intensive than the other option I saw linked.
So I used a 3 ring binder and 3 different types of plastic sheet protectors: trading card organizers (Avery 76016), 4x6 photo pages (Avery 13401), and regular 8.5x11 sheet protectors (any ones that aren't too thin along the edge with the holes should do.) The only other thing you need is a roll of shelf grip liner like this, and some reasonably sharp scissors.
Using the shelf grip liner, I held my differently sized plates up to it and figured out about how big they were. It doesn't have to be exact, I tend to err on the slightly smaller side, it shouldn't hang off the edges too much (although I just do squares for the little circle plates because I'm lazy and squares are easier.) The shelf liner makes it easy because it is made of little "squares" that you can count if necessary. Then, I cut the correct size liner for one of every plate at every corresponding size. You could use some kind of spray adhesive to attach them to the back of the plates, but because of the "grip" functionality it's naturally a little sticky, so I just kind of press it onto the back of the plate, carefully slide it into the sheet protector, and close it and let the weight of all the plates in the binder apply pressure over time, so by the next time I open the binder to use the plate, they've sort of been fused together and I don't have to worry about it falling off.
Small circle plates go in the trading card pages, medium square & rectangle plates go in the photo pages, and huge plates like the Cheeky Jumbos go in the full size pages. Be sure not to store it vertically like you normally would with a binder—the weight of the metal pulls on the holes and causes them to break. I store mine flat now (ever since figuring out this design flaw and having to replace a bunch of pages, lolsob) and haven't had any problems.
If you need any pictures to illustrate what I mean, just lmk! I'm dogsitting at a friend's house for the holiday weekend, but can get you pics of mine when I get back home Tuesday :)
ETA: I can't tell if the grip liner link is working properly so here's another one.
Nice video, quick & too the point but gives a decent understanding of the steps you went through! I dig the finished product, Sky Dolch represent! ;) Can't go wrong with that colorway IMO! How you enjoying it so far? I have yet to do a build with Zealios but love my 2 boards with MOD tactiles (the linked pic is one of them) so I'm gonna go out on a limb & assume you're loving it, LOL!
Also I seen in the comments someone recommended a sound dampening material. If you've got some shelf liner laying around the house a layer or 2 of it at the bottom of a case will do a pretty good job of quieting a board down also. Probably not as good as Isolate It!, but if you already have shelf liner I doubt the differences are big enough to justify spending money for them. I could be wrong though, although I've used shelf liner to great effect in all of my boards that have bottom case + plate design.
Anyways enjoy the new board & thanks for putting the video up!
Sooooo I use cardboard boxes. Usually vegetable boxes from the grocery store as they have handles but this works with any size box. Then I go to the dollar store and get a roll of drawer grip liner (like this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Liner-Non-Adhesive-Shelf-Anti-Slip-Drawer/dp/B079Y7TZMN ) I then cut the liner to fit the bottom of the box and boom mini carrier. You can't tip it upside down but the mini's actually stick to the liner a bit and so are very secure for carrying and car trips. This doesn't work for longer travel (air etc..) but for storage or local-ish events its perfect and stupid cheap!!
I use nonadhesive self-grip shelf liners under all of my rugs. It doesn't work great for small rugs, but it does for large rugs that are held down by something heavy. I can find them at the local dollar tree (dollar store). You can also get them at walmart. Here is an example of what I am describing: http://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Brand-Premium-Non-Adhesive-Almond/dp/B00DAJ5AYO/ref=sr_1_10?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1420331852&sr=1-10&keywords=nonadhesive+shelf+liner
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI
We use this stuff between our dogs' bed and the kennel floor. It works perfectly even in the moving car.
The commercial gym I train at has slippery benches as well. Here are some solutions that have helped me not fly off the bench:
The liner is sold in a roll (link below), but you only need a piece long enough for the bench.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002AS9NAI/ref=pd_aw_sim_201_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8ZFN4WHEN3VNNZ6BDD9&dpPl=1&dpID=91V8hWHWKlL
Hope this helps! HAPPY BENCHING!
I have the Alex drawers with the desk on top. I find that the little support things didn't really prevent my desk from sliding. They actually moved from where I stuck them. I use shelf liners as a secondary grip to keep things in place. Not sure if that helps.
It's very early, and I may be wrong, but I've used this in the past, and it has worked very well. Non affiliate link to what I got.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AH8PLI?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTAKMA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
This can be cut to any size drawer. I had the same problem, used them in my drawers and stuff doesn't slide any more.
It's pretty nice having it on shelves instead of my windowsill (it was getting crowded!). I have this shelf from amazon, and I also got these shelf liners. The bigger sized shelf liners were cheaper, so I just cut them to size afterwards.
You can customize the height of the shelves and it's on wheels, so I can wheel it over to the kitchen for their weekly watering. It's pretty awesome!
For anyone dealing with reflections from picture frames, or possibly windows, try con-tact shelf liner: https://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Covering-Self-Adhesive-Privacy-18-Inches/dp/B00D8GBO2G
I had a couple frames with glass in my room and was getting bad tracking jumps, so I took the glass and covered it with the liner. No more tracking issues! Works great. I can still see the pictures fine, just a very slight frosted look to the glass, but no more reflections.
I would just as soon use something like a Con-Tact shelf liner:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079Y7TZMN/
I use these for RPG dungeon tiles and they work great to keep things from sliding around, and make cards easier to pick up. Not as fancy, but functional.
if you don't want it to slide, you could get some Non-Slip Shelf and Drawer Liner and attach it to the bottom of the print. I love this stuff.
A small piece of non-adhesive shelf liner (something like this) works better than a wet towel at keeping the cutting board from sliding around. It also cleans more easily and dries more quickly and takes up less space when it's not being used.
For under my rug, I just used the "don't slip around" mat for drawers underneath. It does pad it somewhat too and was super cheap at the dollar store. I saw some at Walmart too.
Amazon!
This: http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI/ref=sr_1_2?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1464040165&sr=1-2&keywords=shelf+liner
Only this.
Cut a small square that's the size of your keyboard, and you'll forget it's even there. Plus, it's relatively cheap and you get a shitload of it. I use it in my drawers, on my desk, and even under my PC case for extra grip without scratching up my desk. Shit is the best yo.
Sure, you can buy a mouse mat or something for it. But they get dirty or they're bigger than you want. With this you just cut it and forget it. Need another one? Cut another one. No problem bro, you've got a huge-ass roll of it.
Those are the EXACT rubber mats that I was talking about. My current kitchen uses those. I have a similar one, also, but I prefer using the wet towel.
I've used this type of rubber shelf liner, before. To clean it, all you really need to do is rinse it under hot water. If you're really worried about it, dunk it in some hot, soapy water, swish it around, then rinse and dry it. That stuff's not all that expensive, so even if you replace the piece that you use every other week, or once a month, a single $5 roll will last you the entire year.
Get some drawer grippy liners. You should be able to find something in the kitchen aisle of most department stores. Cut it to fit and it should help everything from sliding around. If you slide the whole helmer around, or close a drawer really rough, you will probably still knock things over, but it will be cushioned. I haven't had any problems with mine over the last 8 months or so, and no broken polishes!
So sorry about your lost ones, hopefully they are replaced quickly. Good luck!
roor has several different ways they do it.
for labels you're basically sketching/drawing out a stencil on contact paper with a sharpie. then just cut out the parts you want frosted.
I use some of that rolled matting that is meant to go inside cabinets and drawers. I think I paid 4 bucks for an entire roll. Like this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Non-Skid-Cabinet-Shelves-Non-Slip-12-Inch/dp/B00IXYIWC8 but I picked it up in the home goods section at wal mart
Rubberized mesh The tool chest came lined in it, but I bought a bunch at Walmart to line all the other shelves in the vault. Stuff is cheap, but does the job!
A permanent solution could be to use something like this clear contact paper. Not sure if it is specifically compatible with dry erase markers, but you could probably find out with some research. Keep in mind that this would permanently stick to your mats.
Buy some of that rubber stuff you line the bottom of your cupboards with.
Something like this, but I personally haven't tried this brand.
Still using that laptop desk and love it. I bought this stuff and it works very well to keep the hotas from moving around. The velcro might be better though.
a sheet of this non-slip drawer liner adhered to the top of the box.
This stuff is even cooler. You can stick it on both sides of the map and voila - it is water proof and you can write on it with dry-erase markers. Also, you don't destroy the map with pins.
My last groups DM used a few of those in a quadratic handy format (I think 30x30cm) and put them next or onto each other as needed.
Edit: I just saw that you're using mount tabs - I didn't know such stuff existed, pretty cool.
i dunno. ...
EDIT: This is what the person that inspired me used, and it comes in up to a 75' roll, so you could theoretically do this with any snake so long as its not more than 18" in diameter
http://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Brand-Self-Adhesive-Shelf-Liner/dp/B00D8GBO2G
That one says "Permanent" several times in the description, so probably not.
Instead, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Brand-Covering-Self-Adhesive-Semi-Transparent/dp/B00R8AWBJI
Something like this?
You could get some of that no slip plastic mesh stuff
Drawer liner? Thats probably the easiest thing to google.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1359572-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NB2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457102064&sr=8-2&keywords=anti+slip+drawer+liner
You could try something like the GelRest Micro shoulder rest (link) or the Acoustagrip shoulder rest (link). There is also the Artino Magic Pad (link) that is similar to the Micro shoulder rest, but higher. These all work quite well for people with short necks, and aren't super expensive.
Some people with short necks also really like the Suretone shoulder rest (link) but it is quite expensive, and it is enormous - it won't fit into most cases. You can attach various Velcro wedges to the shoulder rest in order to raise it, but some people don't use the additional Velcro pieces - just the main part (which imitates the shape of the back of your violin, but raises it slightly higher).
I know a few people with shorter necks who just use some shelf liner from the hardware store (like this, for example), roll it up (or fold it, or leave it flat), and rubber band it to the back of their instrument.
You could also use a (clean) sponge - many, many shorter-necked professionals use these round red cosmetics sponges (link) instead of shoulder rests.
I'm a thumb player but I've seen others on this subreddit suggest something similar to this.
I also recall someone suggesting what looked like a microfiber cloth.
maybe this??? https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Covering-Self-Adhesive-Privacy-18-Inches/dp/B00D8GBO2G
Is this it? https://www.amazon.com/Tact-Brand-Covering-Self-Adhesive-Semi-Transparent/dp/B00D8GBO2G/ref=sr_1_3_acs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542402609&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=clear+shelf+liner
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07BTNWFNB?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_3744211_0&pf_rd_p=579c8c0a-3f35-58df-a91b-2f746ff24956&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-10&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=3744211&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=JP2Q4CKKQJAG92YRDYWC&pf_rd_r=JP2Q4CKKQJAG92YRDYWC&pf_rd_p=579c8c0a-3f35-58df-a91b-2f746ff24956
I also believe people have done similar desks over at /r/battlestations. Could always do the two drawers and a single leg in the back center if your worried.
Contact paper like this? Never used it for this purpose (I would have thought the plastic might melt), but I have used parchment paper like this with a clothes iron to cure plastisol ink. It was my first big run, something like 180 white prints on black shirts. Took forever. Got a heatpress with the money from that job, and still recoil at the sight of an iron.
I've put this on my frequently played board games to protect the graphics and be able to use dry-wipe pens (because I don't care about any resale value): Clear Con-Tac Paper
You could stack the drives with kitchen cabinent liner foam in between each drive. This stuff.
Do you have any kind of mat between the board and your desk? In my experience, a lot of the most unpleasant mechanical keyboard sounds actually come from keystrokes resonating/vibrating through the desk. I have a sheet of this under my board, cut perfectly so you can't even see it. Also, I'm not sure how much room there is between the TADA68 PCB and the bottom of the plastic case, but with most boards, there's enough room to throw a sheet of this on the bottom of the inside of the case, which will dampen some of the hollow vibrations you get when typing.
There is a type of drawer/shelf liner that is non-skid and grippy. Maybe you can use a strip of that for the bottom of the pipe? this is the stuff I'm taking about
Thanks! If you decide to give it a try I used shelf liner like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AS9NAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iDCUCbWDHVSKD
I cut a rectangle so that it was almost as long as the battery and wide enough that it goes about three-quarters of the way around.... I insert the shelf liner into the battery compartment making sure to slide it underneath the spring, then insert the battery and try to force it up away from the spring as much as possible.
I am keeping my fingers crossed that the new touch controller is coming out they learn from their mistake and have the battery face the opposite direction so that the centrifical force works WITH the spring rather than against it.
It's generally found as kitchen shelf or drawer liner.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Shelf-Drawer-Liner-Black/dp/B000KFSOFI
I love it! I will say that you will want this though for the drawers! I currently am using felt, but when I have the extra money I'll be buying it too! Without it polish moves too much. Just sayin'.
Sure you can. Go buy some rubberized shelf liner, or carpet padding, like this stuff:https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07DQB1Z2R/ref=asc_df_B07DQB1Z2R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=288879357798&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17951083079041624984&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003996&hvtargid=pla-573931910285&psc=1
and put your board on a cement floor on top of the liner. That will keep it from moving.
I've seen good results with shelf liner material, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQB1Z2R/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_-RAYDbJ6F8H9C Reasonably grippy, and with a little bit of give so that you can grip tight without straining the motors.
Maybe something like this. Or if you don't want to stick anything to your wrist rest, maybe a layer of shelf liner undernearth.
Since I only really use the one side and it's hardly ever moved I've only got one of the rubber things coming off. And I've kept track of it so I just need to glue it down again.
Whenever I need something to stay put on my desk I use this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100733-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Square-Feet/dp/B002AS9NB2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hg_6
You can easily cut it to whatever shape you want. You could use a large piece of it to set under the whole mouse pad or just cut some small pieces for the corners.
You can buy little rubber feet but they would have to be really small ones so it doesn't raise it off the desk too much. For rubber feet I guess I'd try radio shack.
I think you're referring to the smaller holes within the larger holes? The only 5/8" drill bit I had was a spade bit so I just went with it. The smaller holes are very narrow and I'd considered puttying them before staining but decided they make for good drains to keep stray juice from puddling up. The padding I'm putting on the bottom is actually coming from some Easy-Shelf liner so any liquid can just drip straight through. Everything is a pretty loose fit so the eGos actually sit at a very slight angle.
All that makes it sound like a lot of thought went into this. Actually, I was grabbing some stuff from Lowe's, saw a bunch of these blocks on an end cap, and thought they'd work better than a coffee mug.
Cut a square of this stuff and put it under your stand. Won't go anywhere.
If it didn't come out right away, don't rush things. It's not impossible to break the feed. Check out, for instance, this video. You may want to use a piece of the rubber shelf liner, like this or a needle grabber for better grip.
On a serious note to this comment. If you have carpet and have to use pedals because your hotas doesn't have a twist yaw then https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AS9NAI that stuff will keep your pedals put.
I taped it to the underside of my joystick, throttle, and pedals. My pedals don't slide on the carpet, and my joystick and throttle won't slide on my desk.
Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.
Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:
1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.
2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:
3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).
4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.
5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.
6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.
7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.
8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.
You want this: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Non-Adhesive-Cabinets/dp/B07DQB1Z2R/ref=asc_df_B07DQB1Z2R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=288879357798&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=656552131225579357&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033259&hvtargid=pla-573931910285&psc=1
I swear by this stuff for display shelves.
I've used a rubber gripping kitchen shelf liner to do the same. Benefit is that it can be cut to any size and used as a grip for opening stubborn jar lids too.
(http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Shelf-Drawer-Liner-Black/dp/B000KFSOFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377810776&sr=8-3&keywords=rubber+kitchen+shelf+liner)
Contact Paper comes in 2' wide sheets and has a sticky back. you can find it in reflective silver.
How about Adhesive Contact Paper?
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1115496-Laminate-Adhesive-12-Inch/dp/B002AS9NC6/ref=pd_sim_op_4
Wonder if some self laminating rolls would be better.
the blue in the kitchen is nice, but like what u/jesushx was saying about covering stuff in contact paper, your dishwasher might look cool with this over the bottom part (not where the knobs are) http://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Shelf-Liner-Faux-Stainless/dp/B001V98IRQ
i would just paint the green, maybe a light gray would be nice and compliment the blue kitchen
What about something like this? I know we use it under our cutlery rack in the kitchen to keep it from sliding in the drawer.
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Shelf-Drawer-Liner-Black/dp/B000KFSOFI
do you mean something like this?
Without a doubt, but the effects are surprisingly minimal when typing normally and not utilizing the F1-F6 keys and numpad simultaneously. Id been using the keyboard (like I do with all my keyboards) on padded non-slip drawer mats (like this one from amazon) so I didn't even notice the pad was missing until I already left my old office (and the footpad) behind.
Try cutting and using a piece of shelf and drawer liner. It'll help with the smell, and save your hands.
grab something like this rubber grip mat and put a chunk/strip of it on the passenger seat. Its small enough to fit under the seat for when you're riding solo and cheap enough to replace if you end up losing it.
I bought these shelf liners. They come in a bunch of different sizes.
Pick up some of this stuff.
Clear contact paper. Thing is, it really isn't clear, but more of a matte frost when applied to windows. It comes off easily, and you can trim it easily. Plus it's inexpensive. You won't need shades at all, and they will let in a lot of light.
Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002AS9NB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467434163&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=non+slip+mat&dpPl=1&dpID=41ydL5IOP2L&ref=plSrch
Just cut it to size and roll it out under your keyboard. Can find them cheap at some hardware stores.
Well I've only purchased each once. Im pretty new to Vinyl cuts.
This was the liner that I bought
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00D8GBO2G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This was the Vinyl
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N1PYCWT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for details. I bet if you added some adhesive velcro to your PFD cushion and to the top of your cooler you might be able to fix that sliding problem. Another option might be to put down bit of non slip shelf liner between the cooler and cushion.
Drawer/shelf liner (the stuff that is like a soft foam netting) works.
-
I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AS9NB2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had the best success cutting several custom fit layers of it and cramming as many layers as possible. 3 layers was the limit in my Fjell
As for the brace digging in, try pieces of the foamy-style of shelf liner to ease hot spots. http://amzn.com/B002AS9NAI
It will provide some padding and also help the brace from sliding around.
Rubber shelf liner (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AS9NAI ) on top of the glass, then layer something flat/rigid over top of the liner that will stay put & provide a smooth surface for the pad, then put the mouse pad on top of that. Just an idea, and it may add too much thickness to work.
You could also try different types of tape. Some will stick to surfaces that others will not. Some basic 3M/Scotch double-sided tape may do the trick and it wouldn't add any thickness at all.
The best solution functionally--but also the most expensive--would be to buy a new desk that isn't glass.
I'm pretty sure kbd67 PCB would work in the tofu 65 case. The split backspace I don't really like. And youd have to get a plate that allows for the space in the bottom row. (you could Dremel out a tada68 plate)
The stock tada68 plate is steel and I imagine aftermarket ones are steel also.
KPrepublic also just released a 65% board(not hotswapable) but they do have a steel plate that would work with either the lkf or the kbd67pcb (if the holes are line up properly.... Which they look like they are but I cant say for sure unless I got one).
The thing I don't like about the lfk65 is the 3 keys to the right of the space bar. I like 2 keys there. Either 2x 1.5u or 2x1.25u +.5 u spacer)
As for sound dampening just get some cheap drawer liner at Walmart or dollar store. (I feel that this is too expensive and can be found cheaper locally but some tlike this would work https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Select-Drawer-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=shelf+liner&qid=1555375109&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1)
Maybe add a little electrical tape to dampen the noise between the top/bottom/plate on the kbd67 also.