(Part 2) Best powersports electrical products according to redditors
We found 622 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports electrical products. We ranked the 222 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Headlight Housing (Amazon)
I requested larger fork clamps for the housing to fit the DNM USD-8 since they're 42mm diameter pistons.
Headlight itself (Amazon)
Switch Set (Amazon)
Power Switch (Amazon)
And then as far as the wiring, I crimped all my wires into molex. I use JST a lot but just to be safe with higher amps, molex gives some headroom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LN9LOJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Baja Designs, I have been looking for months on what headlight to pick and finally decided on this one.
I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.
Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP
But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:
Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2
It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:
ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542
A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.
Thanks for the tip. I ended up buying on Amazon and purchasing the acid as well. Links below.
Battery:
Yuasa YUAM22A5B 12N5.5A-3B Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GZRB6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_r5Fe7KMKmPrOz
Acid:
WPS Non-Sealed Battery Electrolyte Pack - 850cc 850CC CONV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBXArGBu9ehQL
https://www.amazon.com/Approved-Headlamp-Motorcycle-Headlight-Signal/dp/B07P5WFFQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=motorcycle+headlight&qid=1558444591&s=gateway&sprefix=Motorcy+le+h&sr=8-8
Looked pretty similar
Here’s the headlight
And the Bucket
This was a pain to install and required some creative rewiring since the wiring harness no longer all fits in the bucket with out a little finesse and a few curse words!
You can get a SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) battery in various sizes, and they put out 12V. They could easily run for several hours on a single charge. Don't bother tying to make a charger (harder than you think!) just buy one, they're pretty cheap.
An example of a battery https://www.amazon.com/Verizon-PX12072-HG-Powerstar-Rechargeable-Terminal/dp/B00V93WVPO/ref=sr_1_54
which is rated at 7.5Ah, so it can deliver say 500mA continuously for around 15 hours.
Make sure you get a smart charger, like https://www.amazon.com/Battery-PeleusTech-1A-Portable-Maintainer/dp/B01822CSA2/ref=pd_sbs_23_2/132-4805477-2123568 which does trickle charging and has auto cutoff, etc.
For my rear fender I used these items:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DF568M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBG2C9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Made a bracket from sheet metal I had from other projects.
Final Product looks like this:
https://imgur.com/Hm6uQy9
Signals - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IBG2C9W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
They screw right into the frame one you remove the rear fender.
Removed the original headlight mounts
Sanded down all the rust under the headlight mounts
Removed aftermarket drag bars
Installed clip-ons
Installed new levers
Bought custom length brake cable and banjo bolts (bought locally, no link)
Mounted headlight on new brackets
Made custom bracket for speedometer out of metal bought from Lowes
Bar end mirrors
Grips
Horn+turn signal+headlight switch
For some reason I can't remember where I got my throttle. It's kinda Gerry rigged together. So buy something you're comfortable with.
Edit: Feel free to contact me for details on the changes I've made. I'd be glad to share details where needed.
I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/
A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.
They are indeed. I love em! Crazy bright and super efficient. Install can be a bit tricky depending on the depth of the given led bulb backing and clearance behind, but I was able to make it work.
I used these for hi beams
5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Motorcycle Headlight LED Work Light 36W for Motorcycle Automotive Offfroad 12v 24v Replace Xenon Hid Halogen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXR2K7Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wk4VCbCJP15A1
And these for standard beams
5-3/4 5.75 Inch Projector LED Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Headlamp 45W Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ETNZD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rl4VCbXWBAB0R
I replaced my instrument panel lights with led bulbs as well. Love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GLGFOR0/ref=gp_aw_ybh_a_17?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZQEQNYVW8G0H79P4DW38
That said (and I agree), here's a hypothetical for the EE crowd to ponder...
They all use AC Adapters. For example, the Kickr Snap uses a 12v 5A adapter, so couldn't you run it off of a $15 battery, like this? Yes, you would have to fit your own custom wire, and yes, you would have to recharge that periodically at the house (or maybe via solar).
And yes, I realize that this risks blowing up a $500 trainer, hence the hypothetical classification.
Exactly this type of battery.
Front and rear lines
Front Fender
Gripper Seat Cover
Headlight
It's not just a bulb - complete unit.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63N6PJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The electrics are contained under the seat in the pan visible in the later photos. This is my battery:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EYM4JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and Ill see if I can dig up a picture of underneath the seat. I made a new harness from scratch with all new components, so theyre smaller than stock items.
Huge fan of my [Orp](ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9iwaCb2HTQVG5) and [Remorp](REMORP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEVQW8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BjwaCb0ZBHTX1) handlebar extension i've had for about 2 yrs now.
It has saved me countless times from being doored or sideswiped. The louder, more consistent setting is even loud enough to get a cop's attention. Source: SF biker who's almost been sideswiped many times by cops illegally pulling into bike lanes. They definitely stop when I blurp them.
I bought the AG-801 a year ago for my FZ. Works great, very light.
This was a year ago and I’ve done a few upgrades since then. This is a write-up with some links for those interested in it. Hopefully this wall of info might be useful to someone looking to do what I’ve done. It is a headache and a half along with hours of time just trying to find straightforward info for modding these trucks.
Full specs: 2018 TRD ORP w/ KDSS. Bilstein 6112 2.4” lift (5/5 clip settings for KDSS) & 5160 rear shocks. Eibach ProLift rear springs 1”(note: the KDSS models sit about a .5”-1” lower up front in stock.) Super bump kit. OME rear Right 10mm trim packer for lean correction. 275/70/17 KO2 tires. Stock OR Rims. JBA high caster UCAs. Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20148 side steps (for the little wife, to mitigate the tires flinging rocks at the paint and they also help with parking lot door dings)
Lights: The LEDs are Nineo Gen2 for H11 and 9005. It was around $100 total from amazon. They are identical to the Supernova v.4. So if you’re thinking of those, save your money with these.
The DRLs do work fine, believe it or not, and the flicker when in DRL mode is BARELY noticeable and looks kinda cool imo, it’s $50 vs $180 for xenon depots, and I don’t think XDs are $130 better imo. They also do dim. I’ll post more pics and a video of the flicker later when I get the headlights adjusted. If you still can’t stand the flicker the XD LEDs with the DRL driver is the way to go or you can just shut off the DRL mode completely without messing with other lighting functions, this is also a warranty safe and non-permanent solution as you can just push the wire back in if you decide to change your mind. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-lFBDFjs4VOUtFN2RETDJPd0E/view)
Xenon Depot 9005 LED kit w/ DRL module: https://www.xenondepot.com/9005-Xtreme-LED-kit-pro-p/xt-led-9005-pro.htm
Nineo GEN2 9005: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSRS7H/
Katana H11(the Nineo looks sold out, but these are the other identical brand): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W5WJZ2/
Fog Lights, Yellow LED, installing today along with a yellow film, will post pics later: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9S49GP/
Lamin-x Yellow Film: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2EZFI/
Rubbing, death wobble and suspension: The only rubbing I have is on the front mudflaps at full lock, might modify or just remove flaps completely. No rub on UCAs or body mount.
For grease I use Valvoline VV615, if you go JBA, I highly recommend this 90 degree grease adapter. No mess and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/
Or you could replace the straight zerk fittings with 45-90 degree zerk fittings.
The rear right OME trim packer that corrected the lean also fixed the steering wheel death wobble some may experience after a lift. So for this particular case I’ll attribute it to a suspension geometry problem. If you still experience the wobble after lean correction there is a bushing to replace the spider bearing in the front left differential, made by ECGS. it’s about $170 for the full install kit with a new cv axle seal. I highly recommend either of these if you’re are finding yourself getting your wheels balanced way more than you should be.
OME 10mm Trim Packer: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490059-rear-trim-packer-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html
ECGS bushing kit: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
Bilstein 6112 Front Assembly with standard coilovers: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-26910006-bilstein-6112-height-adjustable-front-strut-set-for-2010-4runner-47-259768-or-47-281202.html
Bilstein 5160 rear shocks with oil reservoir: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25489698-bilstein-5160-remote-reservoir-rear-shock-set-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-25-227611-x2.html
JBA STD High Caster UCAs: https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-05-plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html
Super Bump Kit: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490332-wheelers-front-superbump-bumpstop-set-for-2005-tacoma-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-2007-tundra-01superbumpkit.html
DIY lift info that helped me:
If you want to lift your KDSS 5th gen 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html
How to install new UCAs on your 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/237425-4th-5th-gen-upper-control-arm-uca-install-write-up.html
Information pit #1: Toyota-4Runner.org
Information pit #2: 4runners.com
Other useful sites: tacomaworld.com, tacomaforum.com, tundratalk.net
trail4runner.com(review site, decent tutorials)
NINEO 9005 HB3 LED Headlight Bulbs - CREE Chips - 12000Lm 6500K Extremely Bright All-in-One Conversion Kit,360 Degree Adjustable Beam Angle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSRS7H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B93MDbZP6Q6VT
Same price, but probably a bit brighter
Mine is also a Toyota Sienna, 2005. I like it a lot so far but haven't gotten to fully test it out yet :) You're right about the weight of the battery, I don't know why I thought it was 70lbs, the weight listed on Amazon is 129 lbs: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-Grid-Applications/dp/B075RGX1WR
Also I think you might mean 100 amp hour as opposed to 100 amp
​
I opened it up and it looks like the fluid is pretty low yet there appears to be some in all 6 cores. I am thinking about ordering
https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=battery+acid&qid=1562620488&s=gateway&sr=8-3
and refilling. That should do the trick right ?
Same brand but 7 inch.
Here's another more like the OP's.
They're both a couple bucks more but that's better than replacing the housing.
You should be fine. I use sulfuric acid, commonly known as battery acid. You use a lot less sulfuric than phos for the same amount of water. My tap is 8.2.
https://www.amazon.com/WPS-Non-Sealed-Battery-Electrolyte-Pack/dp/B003CKJDW6/ref=pd_yo_rr_rp_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003CKJDW6&pd_rd_r=1cce90e9-e233-487e-8644-7beb0c40f0c1&pd_rd_w=JC5Rp&pd_rd_wg=wkKN4&pf_rd_i=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=9a9cd2b8-5fc1-437e-b810-e4137af95130&pf_rd_r=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75&pf_rd_s=desktop-yo-rightrails&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WM95W47CM7QGJKEYEY75
Stealth Solar Camper Van $8500 (Greenwood, SC)
Imgur Mirror Link
>This van has been meticulously maintained and is in fantastic mechanical
>condition. I have a log of the work that I've done to it (the vast majority of
>which was scheduled / preventative maintenance). I also have the last few shop
>receipts from the previous owner. Everything works as it should. I'm including
>the Haynes service manual, the Ford factory service manual, and the original
>owners manual.
>Power:
>The house electrical system is powered by this
>(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RGX1WR/) Deep Cycle AGM 200 amp-hour
>battery. The battery is charged with a solar panel run through this
>(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHG8TH6/) 40A MPPT charge controller.
>It's also hooked up to the alternator such that it charges from the engine
>while the engine is running. Power is fed through a 12 power splitter and,
>optionally, a 1750W power inverter.
>Bedding:
>There is a fold-out bed platform. I'm including a single mattress which can be
>used for one person while the platform is collapsed. I'm also including a
>double air mattress and a 12V pump which can be used for two people when the
>bed platform is extended.
>Sink / Table:
>There's a custom-built wooden sink with a hand pump and a fold-out table. The
>table can be used as a laptop workstation (by sitting on the bed) or as a
>dinner table with storage seats on either side.
>Cooler:
>I'm including this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005PQYBLI/) Engel
>cooler which keeps ice cold for days in the middle of the summer.
>Other Features:
>Maxxair ceiling ventilation fan
>Oscillating fan
>Backup camera
>Bluetooth stereo
>Cassette toilet
>Privacy curtain
>Reflectix window inserts (apply for privacy, remove for a view)
>Smoke detector
>Fire extinguisher
>Mounted whiteboard
>Coat hanger bar
>Plenty of storage space
>I'm asking $8,500 OBO. Cash or bitcoin. Calls only: If I'm not available,
>leave a voicemail and I'll call back shortly.
 
2000 Ford E-250|
:-
condition:good|
cryptocurrency ok|
cylinders:8 cylinders|
drive:rwd|
fuel:gas|
odometer:186560|
paint color:white|
rv type:class B|
title status:clean|
transmission:automatic|
---
^| ^I'm ^a ^bot ^| ^For ^bug ^reports, ^suggestions, ^or ^if ^you ^want ^me ^in ^your ^sub ^message ^/u/Vendigroth ^|
Link? I can't find them
Found em
YITAMOTOR 2pcs 7 Inch 75W Round Black Led Headlights With DRL Hi/lo Beam For Offroad Jeep Wrangler Jk Tj Harley Davidson MACK R Peterbilt Kenworth Freightliner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GLGFOR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rbzxzbA7XPGJ2
I dunno. . . The silverfish battery pack seems pretty standard. And there are are off-the-shelf lithium motorcycle batteries that will do the trick. It's not much of an issue for DIY eBikes.
This is what I have on my sportster and it's been great. Much better than the stock bulb and it's the entire housing so you don't need to worry about a bulb in a housing not made for it. Sunpie daymaker
This is the charger
I actually started digging a bit more after I posted this, and found that I should. I'm looking to get something like this (https://www.amazon.com/IZTOSS-waterproof-Motorcycle-aluminium-Interrupteur/dp/B0171G7GD4?fbclid=IwAR1av820_bYtsJvb5dpp7UAyT24hU4SSgydSSpYUIp41Rplxrpo_PgOo0NI ) that can install on my handlebar to be able to turn it on/off :)
This is the switch -or similar- I was looking at.
Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/GearBrake-GB-1-Smart-Brake-Module/dp/B00ODR69QK/ref=sr_1_19?s=boost&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1451332350&sr=8-19
This one is a little more than half the price and is Prime.
What if I used this
I guess flasher isn't the right word... on the outside of the headlight housing I have these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HH3JWOS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title Thank tho!!
Check these out. At the very least it'll get you going in the right direction. Slap a set on your trunk too, you can use a 4 pin trailer plug set so when you want to pull the box you can.
Yeah, that will create a lot of heat. Q2 is operated in the linear range to create the necessary voltage drop. If you want to be able to run at 10 V, then at 14.5 V it will be dropping 4.5 V plus the minimum v drop off the transistor. If your LEDs need 2 A that would be over 9 W.
A better approach would be a switching regulator that has a current limiting capability.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GZG7X9Y/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1
ISP is usually not the problem wifi is. Gaming over wifi is far too unstable I use dlan which solves the stability problem couldn't recommend it more.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Powerline-Homeplug-Internet-Ethernet-Technology/dp/B00C5IA4XI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524853095&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=devolo+dlan+500&dpPl=1&dpID=51n%2BUa0rSoL&ref=plSrch
So you're handy with a soldering iron, and you slow the fans with resistors? Is there a reason you're not using an adjustable switching power supply to feed them, or a pwm?
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Regulator-Constant-Voltmeter/dp/B00GZG7X9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425620423&sr=1-1&keywords=DROK%C2%AE+DC-DC+Converter+Buck+Regulator+5V-30V
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-Control-Electric-Stepless/dp/B00CGXJSNY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1425620612&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=DROK%C2%AE+PWM+Controller+DC+12V+to+40V
I fell in love with DLAN, it's way better than WiFi for longer distances actually and it's just as reliable as a direct cable connection in my experience. I first used it when I had my setup on another floor than my router and now still use that I sit next door. All you need is two free outlets basically.