Best screwdrivers according to redditors
We found 888 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdrivers. We ranked the 360 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 888 Reddit comments discussing the best screwdrivers. We ranked the 360 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Edit: I'M SO SORRY FOR THE ACCIDENTAL CLICKBAIT, THEY ARE JUST STYLED LIKE A PRO-CONTROLLER, MY FAULT
After seeing the countless posts of other custom shell swaps, I figured I had waited long enough to do my own, but with a little modern twist, in this case making them look similar to the pro-controller. I think it turned out really well!
Parts/Items List
Disassembly
The first thing I did, was obviously taking apart my original (Neon Red) shells to be able to switch the parts into my painted shells. I decided against using the transparent battery trays, and instead opted to spray paint them matte black, as it darkens the whole joy-con overall, and it was a very simple paint job. For disassembly and reassembly I used Spawn Wave's Video as it was the clearest, but most concise video I'd found, but any tutorial works fine. The tool kit I linked works wonders, and has everything you'll need, from tri-point screwdrivers to little pliers. I then took all the disassembled pieces and set them into separate containers so I wouldn't lose anything.
Painting
To start off, I washed all the shell pieces with some water, and let them dry, just so no dust particles got trapped. I made a little spray painting "rig" with some cardboard pieces so I could set the front shells on top and ensure I sprayed all sides evenly. I started with 6-7 fairly light coats of the Tamiya Smoke Dye, and made sure it was the right darkness, before letting it dry a few hours. I waited 3 minutes between coats, making sure I sprayed evenly on all pieces. Only issue I did have with the smoke was that it run out of paint right after the final coat, so be aware of that.
Following the dye drying, I sprayed two coats of the Krylon Matte paint, before again letting it dry for a couple hours. I wish I had gone a little lighter on the matte, as a little more transparency would've been awesome, but I honestly can't complain with the final product.
Wrap-Up
After they had completely dried, I slipped the pieces back into the shells (once again following Spawn Wave's video) and sealed it up. Overall it wasn't too difficult a process, but if there are any tips I'd suggest, I would recommend making sure to apply a fair bit of pressure when unscrewing and screwing on the screws. I was close to stripping the phillips head screws on the analog sticks, but luckily I avoided that entirely. One issue I did have with the shells, was that the plus button isn't quite as clicky as before, but it really is only a minor issue. All-in-all I'm very happy with them, and they've got a great matte texture that feels good on the hands. If you've got any questions or clarifications, let me know and I'll help you out!
Triw-wings aren't that uncommon. Even Airbus uses them. The screwdriver costs less than $2. If you're serious about taking shit apart just get a bit set that has every bit ever for like $20. Things are a lot easier when you have the right tools.
This is step-by-step guide I put together after I saw /u/oldSAP's post. It's pretty easy to do and looks cool when you're done.
Here's the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) to the tri-wing screwdriver I used and here's a [video] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEpISFBoGDg) of a disassembly if you want to reference it (it's in German).
I could probably make a video tutorial if there is a lot of interest. Have fun!
Edit: Thank you to whoever gave me gold!
This is a great low tech solution, just keep in mind the head will break if you use it too much, and this completely bypasses the cons of making it in the first place.
Actually buying a trihead is always the best solution (I have 4 of them), especially since they sell for almost nothing on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/
That's one I bought for a buck and a half, but it took almost a month to arrive, haha. They ship it all the way from China. If you spend another $1.50 (gasp!) you can get it with Prime and in 2 days shipping though.
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/
tl;dr I highly encourage people not to use the melted plastic method.
This type of setup has allowed us to get through most every issue we have encountered while on the road. Including doing head gaskets in a hotel parking lot in Red Lodge on a extremely hot setup Harley after it lunched them due to some bad gas on the way.
a security one too (this means there is a hole in the center of it). Can't use just a normal one. This one is pretty cheap
Vessel Impacta JIS screwdriver.
That damn seal! If only they had a tool to deal with it!
You crafted a screwdriver by melting a plastic pen? You can just buy a triwing for like $3...
EDIT: I have this one and it works beautifully.
The link with pouch and bits
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_EpvCDbVSWZBE9
The Klein 11-in-1 Screwdriver is an amazing companion. The torx bit is perfect for the screws in HP desktops and the phillips bits have good bite.
Otherwise, you pretty much have that I would carry myself. I would add what /u/bitbucket87 mentioned for sure.
Can't go wrong with Wera. I got this one on sale a few months ago and have been very pleased with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yZHwyb1ZNJY1C
Preventative maintenance is a really good idea. I never had any issues with mine, but then read some horror stories about dust build-up and YLODs on this subreddit and decided to get in front of it, especially since I have three dogs running around (lots of pet hair and dust).
I bought the special screwdriver you need off Amazon for like $4, watched some YouTube tutorials, and opened her up. WOW. I couldn't believe the amount of dust and hair that had been collected over the years. And I found that after I cleaned it out and put it back together, it actually ran quieter than it had been running... I hadn't noticed but it had gotten a bit louder over the years. Now I clean it every 6 months like clockwork - I have even started taking my controllers apart and cleaning them out at the same time.
As long as you're careful and following the numerous instructional videos or write-ups, there's really no detriment to keeping your system clean. My PS3 has had regular use for about 8 years now, and I credit its relatively long life to keeping it clean.
Link to special screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521578661&sr=8-3&keywords=ps3+screwdriver
Link to tutorial I always bring up when cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsuSnYXQLoI
I'm guessing there's some way to pop off the tilting mechanism, but if not these are the lowest profile screwdrivers you can get.
Try this one from Snap-On.
Or, you can check out this one. It's by the folks who make the Snap-On model.
This one is pretty good, too.
Make sure you buy quality bits, too. A great driver with crappy bits nets a crappy time repairing anything.
I have the same 13” mid 2012 MBP and am running 16gb of RAM w/ a 1TB SSD. I also have the same version of Ableton as you. The official specs from Apple list 8gb RAM as the max but it can for sure support 16gb. Based on the specs you provided I’d guess you have the i5 version which comes stock with 4gb of RAM and the 500gb HDD. Your model will support 16gb and you’ll see a significant boost in performance, with Ableton and the computer in general, if you add 16gb and an SSD. If you leave the standard 500gb HDD, I'd assume you'd only see a moderate boost in performance since that's really the big driver of slow performance. I can't speak to the performance of Omnisphere as I don't have a working copy but I do know it made a significant boost for pretty much everything in Ableton and otherwise.
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My recommendation would be to add 16gb of RAM plus an SSD. They are both relatively straight forward processes as well (links below), just need the right tools and to take your time. Watch YouTube tutorials. Attaching links to the items I have in mine. I'd recommend getting the Crucial RAM and Samsung SSD (which is what I have and has a higher performance rating), but the Crucial SSD will be adequate as well.
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Let me know if you have other questions on it.
​
INSTRUCTIONS
HDD Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378
RAM Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+RAM+Replacement/10374
​
PRODUCTS
Crucial SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/
Samsung SSD - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTBJFW/
Tool Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVKPTP6/
The backplate is very easy to remove. You need a triwing screwdriver to do it, but it's pretty straightforward. There's also a protective metal plate just under the plastic, so there's not much room to mess up anything. I replaced the shell on mine and had no issues (joycons were a bit rough, though). Here's a video on removing it.
Old school mechanic's trick, I was shown how to do this in the late 70's before you could buy magnetic screwdrivers.
Here's a video showing a number of ways to magnetize your tools.
Or you could buy this $7 magnetizer on Amazon that makes it quick and simple.
Edit: spelling.
They’re Torx Security bits. The Wera Kraftform Kompact set has the right tip for them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8Qy5CbHFZBQNT
I have this Klein Tools screwdriver that hasn't had issues for several years.
https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32500-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1511207279&sr=1-2&keywords=klein+screwdriver
Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:
power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
$16 on Amazon
This is the permanent solution
I used to get random disk ejections twice a day on average. I tried tightening the screw and keeping the eject button away from surfaces but none of those worked.
Then I tried this. I haven't had a disk ejection in over a month since I did it. It prevented me from having to buy a new ps4 or a new disk drive from sony for ~$150 I think it was. It's a permanent solution. It's a little scary because it seems like you'll break something doing this but it 100% works.
You'll need a torx 8 security driver to open the main cover on the ps4. As well as a box cutting knife.
While you're in there you might as well use one of these to clean out your heat sink/fan after taking out the battery. I recommend you check this out to clean out on how to clean out your heat sink.
There. Two birds with one stone. You fixed your ejection button and you cleaned out your ps4 so now it's quieter and cooler.
Sound like it might be the thermostat connection. DIY fix.
You can buy a Torx t8 "security" screwdriver for about $3 off amazon.
You my friend are my spirit brother when it comes to tools. 27yrs in trade and I've come to similar conclusions that you have.
For the lineman pliers, needlenose, and diagonal pliers I still use Klein journeyman or put the tenite handles on them.
Wera screwdrivers are excellent (Wiha and Felo too) and I like their multi screwdriver.
I have a fluke 87 , as well as a fluke T5, and an ideal clamp meter.
The fatmax tape measures have the best hold out. Every time I try another tape measure (currently using a Milwaukee) I end up wishing for another fatmax.
I use the greenlee no dog level and their torpedo level.
I use the 20oz black and red HD hammer (not sure of the brand name)
I do have a Lennox hacksaw frame but I always have a blade with tape for tight areas.
Even comes with a holster: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505610858&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+screwdriver
Williams are known to be the same screwdrivers as Snap On and they make this one for $35
http://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462464493&sr=8-1&keywords=williams+ratcheting+screwdriver
Went slightly over budget. There are a couple of ways to reduce the total price, so let me know if you want this. I do how-ever don't take mail in-rebates into account, so perhaps you can buy products elsewhere to get that, if you want to make use of that.
All you need for building a PC is time, a standard philips (magnetic is possible?) screwdriver, an anti-static wrist band and a decent amount of space to build.
I will provide a lot of helpful videos to help you understand why I went for certain parts, as well as a couple of guides that will help you a lot for building your own PC.
I will refer to these videos in my rationale. Which I have to post in a reply as I went over the 10.000 character limitation you get from reddit per post.
So here is my suggestion, a black & red gaming PC:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $178.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $17.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI B85M GAMING Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $54.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY Optima 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital AV-GP 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus Radeon R9 290 4GB DirectCU II Video Card | $289.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.99 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) | $92.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Lenovo Preferred Pro USB Keyboard Wired Standard Keyboard | $13.09 @ Amazon
Other| Screwdriver| $5.00 @ Amazon
Other| Anti-Static wrist band| $3.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1033.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-03-23 20:16 EDT-0400 |
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Some video's that will help you with the build!
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Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!
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Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great youtube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
You will give this to your children.
All the green stuff is Wera brand.
Here's the Zyklop Ratchet
Here's the ratcheting driver
Here's the Lasertip screwdriver set
Still better than flat head screws. This and This both have that bit, both are easy to obtain.
Dude, you should see my Amazon wish list......full of Wera stuff, but yeah, my wallet cringes each time I start browsing Wera. Really want these and this and these (although I have the same set, just with less bits) and these and this and this to put it all in..........that's like half the wishlist 😆
I have two black and two white. I took one black and one white, opened them up and switched the buttons around. Now I have one white with white buttons, one black with black buttons, one white with black buttons, and one black with white buttons. It's fairly easy to do, but you will need to order a special tri-wing screwdriver to open them up.
At the very least get a set of channel locks and a 11 in 1, you can tackle a lot of handyman jobs around the house with those two tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Strength-Klein-Tools/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Klein+11+in+1&qid=1568254385&s=gateway&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-VISE-GRIP-GrooveLock-2078709/dp/B000FK1R0W/ref=sxin_4_osp99-ebfabea8_cov?ascsubtag=ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&creativeASIN=B000FK1R0W&crid=52N01XQTME7Q&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.ebfabea8-942a-40f4-a928-b0bcf10c1d47&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=channel+locks+plier+set&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B000FK1R0W&pd_rd_r=6a0d0353-d9d4-4a0b-91ae-ed1ec49454dd&pd_rd_w=tT9Vl&pd_rd_wg=skAr1&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=5QEVBGFZ82ZEBZJ4V0QZ&qid=1568254408&s=gateway&sprefix=Channel+Locks%2Caps%2C501&tag=gearpublish-20
Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Industrial Strength Bits, Cushion Grip Handle Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_S.9XBbS1RP5HN
At half the price, they are most definitely worth it!
Set wear hot hands are the best insulated work gloves I've ever used. You can hold something 400 degrees for a good 10-15 seconds before you start to feel the heat. It's a real leather too, which lasts longer.
If you're going to the UFT you might as well go for the full ratcheting version rather than ape ding that money twice. Personally I don't care for the UFT I use a Gator Grip socket on a short handled rachet with a swiveling head. Then I also carry a Mega Combo Wrench from The Light Source on my keyring.
Most screw drivers you find won't have a tether hole, I assume because you use them in a circular motion. For an all purpose carry look for a XX in 1, that has multiple bits all in one screwdriver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_JsPOCbM5B9DK8 something like this.
Is also recommend looking at multi tools, I use a Gerber Center Drive because it has a bit driver to use real screw bits and I like it a lot.
Another good gift idea are flashlights. I'm always on the lookout for the next great flashlight.
If you ever need to get into really tight spaces, these saved a shelving project I did a while back.
https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Megadora-Impacta-P2x100-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ
Yes but you have to actually open it up with screwdrivers. You need a T8 security screwdriver like this one Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9LYjybS95AE3F
...how? You'll need a torx T8 screwdriver I believe to open it up and pop it back on. Shouldn't take took long
http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Dunno how it happens, but you could try a tool demagnetizer: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE
Wiha 40010 Magnetizer or Demagnetizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00018AONE/
have 2x, fantastically easy, not too strong and demagnetizes even the most stubborn irons almost completely.
I use a boxer set and love it.
Strong magnetics, lots of heads, nicely organized, and I've never had an issue with it getting it into tight spots.
Wera Kraftform Kompakt 62 Bitholding Screwdriver and Pouch Set, 33-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_isG3xbM1ZJ55D
$5.99$1.68$2.99
I've taken apart my 3DS to repair broken parts a couple of times now, and if there's anything I've learned it's that the L and R buttons are very simple to remove/replace. Whilst I'm pretty sure that taking apart the 3DS yourself voids the warranty, doing it by hand can save you a lot of money since the Nintendo repair can cost rather silly amounts of cash.
If you feel confident that you can remember what goes where and put the 3DS back together again afterwards (Which is very simple) then the easiest way to do it is to buy a small Tri-Headed screwdriver to unscrew the screws that Nintendo uses. They're very cheap and can be found on amazon here:
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405183226&sr=1-1&keywords=tri-wing+screwdriver
The next step is to open the back of your 3DS, making sure not to lose the screws. Since the shoulder buttons are merely slotted onto the board, they should come off easily. They consist of the button and a small metal spring. You can take a look at the broken button this way to see if it is truly broken or just jamming.
If it's jamming: Problem solved! Putting it back in place how it should be will solve it (In order to see how it "Should" be positioned, just look at the other button).
If it's broken: You can easily find a replacement button from parts dealers on e-bay or other websites. You may only be able to find replacement shoulder buttons that come with the trigger also, but usually it's still a darn sight cheaper than paying Nintendo to do it for you.
Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH
That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.
Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A
This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around
Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW
This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life
Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C
You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff
Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV
A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws
Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742
This will help for when you go home
11 in 1 screwdriver
Not sure about that one in particular but my friend has one of these and swears by it:
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427291911&sr=8-1&keywords=klein+screwdriver
It's a pretty neat design and is quick to switch the drivers. It's also a Klein so it should be high quality.
Mastercraft is fine for some tools though I would not suggest that blue box shown in your ad photo. I had one as a beginner box (since it was on sale and I needed something cheap at the time) and it's not very good. That box easily tips over if more than 2 drawers are open which by itself would be fine if not for the fact nothing holds those drawers shut so if your box is on even a slight incline the drawers tend to want to slide open. Well that and I outgrew that box pretty quick so honestly I would suggest like others have mentioned to check the used market, whether through a tool truck or Kijiji, Craigslist, etc as you will often get much better value for your money.
In terms of hand tools the MAXIMUM line is pretty decent to start out with if you get it on sale but never pay full price for anything at Canadian Tire if you can avoid it, it's rarely worth it at full price (ex. Most MAXIMUM air tools cost as much or a little less than Ingersoll Rand when not on sale). My diamond driver screwdrivers and bolt extractors have worked quite well and a few of my coworkers have purchased that MAXIMUM die grinder and liked it, though personally I stick with Ingersoll Rand or AIRCAT for air tools.
Another thing to keep in mind to is many professional brands, including Snap-On, do not produce every tool that bears their name. Instead another manufacturer makes them and simply brands the tool with their name and at the same time produces the same tool under their own name for much cheaper. A perfect example is these low profile screwdrivers. Snap-On was advertising just the number 2 Philips (with their name on it) in a past catalog for around $20 or you can buy the whole set of 3 from the original manufacturer for a couple of bucks more. It's always worth looking into whenever you might need to purchase a tool.
I don't do much production work these days, as I work in an office repairing lighting equipment, so that's definitely colored my opinions, but here they are.
I used to be a fan of multitools, but these days I prefer to actually have real tools - with a multitool you get a decent pair of pliers and a lot of sub-par tools.
I like the stage junk focus tools, though at this point I've managed to lose two and haven't replaced the second one. On the occasion I am hanging or focusing, I use one of these. I bought it my first summer stock season years ago and it's held up pretty well.
My favorite interchangeable screwdriver is from Wera. All of their tools are superlatively engineered and constructed, and you can't go wrong.
If you're in a theatre production context and might need to solder, I recommend Hakko tools. I've had my station (an older, non-blue model) for something like a decade. I'm still using the tips that came with it and they're as shiny and clean as the day I got it, and it still operates perfectly.
For pliers and cutters, Lindstrom is the top of the line as far as I'm concerned. I don't have many of these because they are definitely $$$ but they can't be beat.
This driver and a lot of other Wera tools are still on sale by way!
I got you
Well, I have a couple ideas:
This will change your life. JIS Impact Screwdriver
Yeah. This kind of thing
Northwest of England! I pray you're a Manchester United fan? Glory glory Man United!
Anyway, enough about football. Here's a build (with everything you'll need) as well as some useful videos.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | £185.95 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI - B350M GAMING PRO Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | £73.77 @ Box Limited
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | £136.77 @ Amazon UK
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £35.99 @ Aria PC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X Video Card | £293.48 @ BT Shop
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv TG (Silver) MicroATX Mini Tower Case | £111.09 @ Box Limited
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £47.57 @ Ebuyer
Case Fan | be quiet! - Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | £7.34 @ Aria PC
Case Fan | be quiet! - Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | £7.34 @ Aria PC
Monitor | Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | £115.00 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Corsair - STRAFE Wired Gaming Keyboard | £70.74 @ Aria PC
Mouse | Logitech - G402 Wired Optical Mouse | £29.99 @ Amazon UK
Headphones | Logitech - G230 Headset | £37.00 @ Amazon UK
Other | SteelSeries QcK Gaming Mouse Pad (Black) | £8.99 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1236.01
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-21 04:37 BST+0100 |
You can get a copy of Windows 10 here and this link will teach you how to create a bootable USB drive.
This video will walk you through the build process step-by-step, and this one will walk you through the setup of your new rig from overclocking the RAM to installing Windows. If you need to update your BIOS to successfully overclock the RAM (you probably will), this video will walk you through that process.
To actually complete the build, you're going to need a few tools.
The essentials are a screwdriver, a pair of scissors/wirecutter, and zip ties for cable management. Some useful tools (that aren't mandatory) include a small screwdriver for the hard to reach places in the case, a magnetic screw tray to keep track of all those pesky screws, and an anti-static mat (can't find a link to one, but the brand I'd recommend is called ModMat).
I know it seems overwhelming, but you'll be okay! You have plenty of resources (and this sub!) available to help, and you're welcome to PM me for any help you may need :)
Feel free to ask anything!
There's actually two; this one has a similar handle to yours (same size), but the shaft doesn't come out and it doesn't lock bits in place. I like this one; it does the job.
But my favorite is this one and the 4" shaft that came with yours (I have the regular green and black version of yours). I love that it keeps bits locked in place and is still magnetic, and if I don't need to use the longer shaft, the built in holder makes it kind of a stubby driver. The handle is a bit smaller since there's no bit storage, but f3eels more solid than the versions with bit storage in the handle.
Wera is worth every penny.
No, the Wera Kraftform 816 RA Bitholding Ratcheting Screwdriver is the best.
Ahh maybe this is better?
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Electronics-Klein-Tools-32581/dp/B01EOY7LTA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Ys8CbJZJQEN8
99% sure those are authentic. Judging by the wear on the labels, the color of the silver's plastic, the security screw type and placement are correct, and the quality of plastic looks good.
This should help you see it. A comparison of reals vs fakes for both pokemon gold and silver.
Front sides.
Back sides.
If you want to check games you buy, and if only just for the fun of opening up Nintendo products, these tools are a pretty good investment. You'll notice my fake cartridges had Y screws where as the real ones have 3.8 mm security screws. You can pick up Y1/Y0/Y00 tri wing screwdriver set at lowes/walmarts, but you probably won't be able to find the security bits. You'll notice in one of my previous comments, fakes always have black globs inside of them, typically much less pcb, and they have different button cell containers to name a few. Hope that helps!
edit: also wanted to add that you got a steal on those. Nice find :)
It is technically called a "tri-wing". amazon should have a screw driver like that for pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/HIGHFINE-Phillips-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Products/dp/B06XHLM4DX/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542737885&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=triwing+screwdriver&dpPl=1&dpID=41bDFNu8SbL&ref=plSrch OR if you dont want to save the screws just go to lowes or home depot and buy an appropriate sized easy out. They are like 4 bucks.
Hello again! Here was my shopping list (I am sure that there are better!) and I think that this was everything that I had in front of me when working:
For the Gameboy:
- screen and glass (and this came with screwdrivers but I bought others because it doesn't say that it does), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Levels-High-Light-V2-IPS-Backlight-LCD-Screen-Kit-For-Game-Boy-Advance-GBA/312745721491?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
[one regret = I should have bought a funny playing screen to support the person that came up with this mod rather than from China directly]
- screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- black silicone buttons (haven't arrived yet so I cleaned my original ones with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol for now), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Game-Boy-GBA-Advance-Button-Silicone-Rubber-D-Pad-Conductive-AB-Select-Start/312608709452?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=611338502576&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
- black button set, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Button-set-for-Game-Boy-Advance-Nintendo-GBA-custom-mod-AGB-001-Black-ZedLabz/371907958966?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
From this company I bought the following (but their website is down for maintenance now): www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/
- case that was pre-cut for a new IPS display (it is central in the glass screen now): Mandarin Shell For Nintendo Game Boy Advance
- 3D printed mount (useful but the screen came with two bits of plastic that would have done the job (see the video that I linked 'person that filmed the whole process')
- Model Sticker For Nintendo Game Boy Advance (just so it doesn't look empty on the back)
​
For soldering:
- solder, https://www.amazon.com/EL60-40-25-Electronic-Solder-Resin/dp/B0001P171K
- wires, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F8PO8OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For cleaning connections:
- Isopropyl alcohol
- Cotton wool buds (Q-tips?)
> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1612395066/nintendo-switch-replacement-shell-atomic-purple/rewards
This?
E.Durable Security Screwdriver... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'll want a screwdriver kit like this and a small phillips head. Don't clean it in the shell.
After using brasso, wash the pins (using a q-tip) with 90% alcohol. Brasso is an abrasive and solvent so leaving it will slowly eat the pins if you leave it on their too long.
The only real way to tell is to open it up with a screwdriver with the matching grooves.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502497856&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=super+nintendo+screwdriver&dpPl=1&dpID=41w9ePmi6eL&ref=plSrch
If you're a snes game collector, one of these is practically a necessity.
Then just look up the chip online to match.
Hope yours is real op
It's a tri-wing, can't tell by the size but here is a set that should work for you.
https://www.amazon.com/HIGHFINE-Phillips-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Products/dp/B06XHLM4DX/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=jRp2y&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=0F991VN23AFN2HAPC14Y&pd_rd_r=4d775321-be8b-49b5-85b1-aa1f9fbdea19&pd_rd_wg=287eI&pd_rd_i=B06XHLM4DX&psc=1&refRID=0F991VN23AFN2HAPC14Y
I second the flex cable idea. You’ll need a triwing and jeweler’s screwdriver, some small sorting containers (ice cube tray works great), and some patience. The screen connector is held in with a little flap tab, make sure contacts are clean for both male and female sides (isopropyl alcohol rub down, allow to completely dry in open air after cleaning). Also ensure connector is fully and evenly inserted. Inspect cable for kinks, breaks, etc.
The only other relatively cheap and easy fix is screen capactor or resistor reflow/replacement, if you already have soldering equipment and experience. Otherwise, not much else you can do but replace the screen.
Boom.
All the sizes and shapes you need.
I got this a couple weeks ago. Installed it onto an ASROCK Z97 Extreme6 motherboard while in a Define C case, 4790K running at stock currently. The only part that was kind of tough for me was getting the fan retention bracket on , as the center fan has to be installed after the cooler is mounted (had to remove my GPU to install the center fan as well).
I didn't find the two mounting screws hard to manage, but I also used a magnetizer to make the included screwdriver's attraction much stronger. I imagine it would have been a good bit harder to install in the case without that. Power cables were easy with some planning.
If this had been installed outside the case, it would have been an absolute breeze.
Temps are fantastic (generally no more than 45-55 C depending on what I'm doing, room temp is generally between 20-22 C). Tested running the fans at max, very quiet! Anything under 80% is pretty much unnoticeable.
Also: this
Ceramic tweezers and wire cutters, I like these and these kind I got a three pack of different kinds but it's no longer available. For cotton this will last forever. if you don't already have screwdrivers and/or bits to wrap your coils something like this works great. For roundwire something like this will last till the end of time.
an assortment of small philips heads and some smaller torx heads would be your best bet. You can find an inexpensive set on amazon, e.g.: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-4mm-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1324271293&sr=1-1
as for the paste, arctic silver 5 would be a good bet.
Hell yes. I have one of those, and about 4 of these, also bought at Fry's, which are perfect for anything computer-case-screw sized or smaller. I keep one in my laptop bag, one in my backpack, and two on my shelf, and because they're so cheap I don't mind loaning them out or otherwise abusing them.
You need this, this, and optionally this. Go over all the instructions beforehand, watch a few different videos so you're somewhat familiar with what goes where, do it in a clean, well-lit environment with a good place to keep the screws, and don't rush it. It's honestly not difficult at all.
Oh, and you might wanna wear latex gloves or something, to keep any oils on your skin from getting onto the internals of the phone. Getting some of the metal areas dirty can effect your reception, or so I've heard.
For laptops this tool set has been a godsend
https://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
I have gone through 3 of them because I always end up dropping the case and losing pieces bit by bit after that.
I was lucky enough to find one of these. Probably one of the best sets I've ever used.
I really wanted the set I found because they were all long and it had the torx and Allen bits to go in my truck box. I find that when the bit only sticks out of the thick poorly made holder a small amount it can really get in the way when there are close tolerances or if a screw is recessed in a hole.
At home I have sets of this kind of thing http://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-Chromium-Vanadium-Steel-Screwdriver/dp/B007NLPUXG , but filling up two drawers with those in my truck box and fitting everything else isn't doable.
http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1404427670&sr=1-2&keywords=wera+kraftform this is the wera I mentioned and probably the best solution, but I just didn't want to spend that much this week.
The R button failing is a fairly common issue with the earlier 3ds models. I have one of the smoke black ( I suppose ) models and had to open it up and replace the switch in mine.
They are very easily replaced and fairly cheap as well. Here is a set from amazon. Go ahead and watch a tutorial on youtube first if you're hesitant. Oh you'll probably need a tri-wing screwdriver. Most Nintendo stuff requires one. Here is another amazon link to a cheap driver.
Good luck and have fun!
This is the one I have, it's cheap and it gets the job done.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VPBYS6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Here is a link to the one I bought
This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.
I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.
Buy this screwdriver immediately. A friend of mine gave me one when I bought my house and I use it religiously. Especially when it is something small like this and I don't feel like getting out my drill and drill bits. It is by far my favorite and most used tool as a home owner.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536541144&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=klein+6+in+1+screwdriver&psc=1
Linesman
I have both of these Klein diagonal cutters
Angled
Straight
Needle Nose
11 in 1
Strippers
Too lazy to do the rest but I’m sure you could figure it out lol
A Klein 11-in-1. I use this more than any other tool. It's fantastic.
Or you could be cool like me.
Get good wrenches, socket wrenches and sockets because these are what you will be using the vast majority of the time. Make sure you get a set of short AND deep sockets too. I might honestly get deep socket first if you have to pick. Also get a 3/4" torque wrench and don't get the harbor freight ones of those. Amazon has good options here. If you spent all of your money on the above items and then added other stuff later you'd be well served. Buying a big kit seems attractive but really putting your money where you will use it the most is a better long term plan. Gearwrench makes good ratcheting wrenches for the price if you want that, but if you aren't willing to spend at least that on wrenches amount get non-ratcheting wrenches instead. Also this thing is one of the handiest tools I own. It's very well built and a very clever design.
Harbor freight does make some OK stuff but it's better to buy less critical things there. I have a set of allen wrenches that have been fine, and their impact sockets are actually pretty good, but you probably won't have an impact for awhile (which is good tbh).
You're driving at quite the angle there. Better option is to use a small diameter, long bit with some painter's tape either on the bit or handle.
Here are some such bits: https://www.amazon.com/Phillips-Magnetic-Professional-Screwdriver-Production/dp/B07GPD3B96
If you want it real snug, then these are better than offset screwdrivers:
https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI
If you're wanting to get fancy then Wera makes excellent screwdrivers.
If not, just any old phillips that isn't too sharp will work.
Don't get the red bull set unless you are really all about the coloring or logo it's like double the price. I also have the tool check plus and the ratchet is a god send but the screwdriver is worthless because of its size. I highly recommend this though
Wera 05051024001 Kraftform Kompakt 25 Slotted and Phillips Bitholding Screwdriver with Bayonet Blade and Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mBBRybAD2S2CX
Uh. No offence but what the difference between this and a multi tech driver or similar
It's the supremely awesome Wera bit driver- its actually got a spring loaded compartment to store your bits. Fits a full set of T5-T10 bits, pretty much all you need to service the majority of knives you'll come across. The bits I use are from Wiha though
I have a wera 817r bit holder and really like it's versatility. The bit actually LOCKS in place, not only a magnet, so it pulls out very rarely. it can be used in both the stubby and extended positions, and the bit holder can be removed and put in a drill/impact driver which is a feature I use alot. for the same price you can get this one which has in handle bit storage, the down side is that the handle is significantly fatter and I prefer the feel of the smaller more standard size handles.
$20 or less: a good pen light or wowtac headlamp.
https://www.amazon.com/LUMINTOP-Penlight-Rendering-Diagnostic-Waterproof/dp/B07C9XP692/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=iyp365+lumintop&qid=1574031374&sprefix=iyp&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B071HW5XQH/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=wowtac+headlamp&qid=1574031445&sprefix=wowtac+headlamp&sr=8-2
Edit: looks like these are priced a bit over $20 currently, but if you search around, you can get them for $20.
$50 or less: I like to give the wera multi bit screwdriver and a makita bit set.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-BithoCSLDing-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wera+multibit+screwdriver&qid=1574031498&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=wera+multi&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-46919-Impact-Torsion-Insert/dp/B0042CF03Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?keywords=makita+bit+set&qid=1574031539&sr=8-10
$100 or less: I've got nothing for this one, possibly a battery for the persons choice of cordless tools?
I don't carry this on my person, usually just leave in my work bag until needed but this might fit the bill for you
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HSNHM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465503674&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=wera&dpPl=1&dpID=418t39btJpL&ref=plSrch
It's a wera kraftform kompakt. Hold 6 bits in the handle and can extend for better reach. Fairly compact for what is essentially a full size screwdriver. Comes with a nice belt pouch too. I keep a knipex 6" water pump pliers snugly stashed in the belt loop and it's been a very functional tool kit for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465504155&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=knipex+cobra+pliers+6&dpPl=1&dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&ref=plSrch
http://i.imgur.com/sOIrsn7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rawQLDC.jpg
My favorite way to relax is to take a bike ride while listening to music.
Also the sound of [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394903345&sr=8-1&keywords=screw+driver) is always nice
Get me out of here!
ESD bracelets are only really used for formalities; most components are pretty resilient to static these days (however, that's not to say you shouldn't keep one around).
Definitely get your hands on a good multimeter and, if you plan to do board work/repair power supplies, an oscilliscope. A small shopvac with crevice attachments is a must.
THIS is something I could never be without.
Order a ton of cables (vga, hdmi, ethernet, extenders, splitters, adapters, etc) from places like Monoprice. Doing things like throwing in a free HDMI cable with a new graphics card installation every now and then is something that'll put you well above the likes of someplace like the Geek Squad.
One last note: Don't forget software tools. Hiren's Boot CD makes repairs a snap.
Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_J1FzwbNS0QZF7
Channellock 3017 8-Inch Long Nose Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000189FGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Q2FzwbCXDPFPC
Klein Tools 1010 Long-Nose Multi-Purpose Tool, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302WX/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_B4Fzwb2HE7B9V
I've got the snap on version, but from a YouTube video comparing the Williams (also a snap on brand), they're pretty close in quality and cheaper.
JH Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.pbQzbTPG4YYS
Edit; if the shank is removable like the snap on ones, gearwrench makes extra accessories for it. I got a 1/4 drive socket extension and flex extension for mine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/?coliid=I2PKW7RRMR60G&colid=1STA3F605B81X&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This has storage but it's light and more like a regular screw driver, also the same one snap-on re-brands.
This vessel screwdriver is designed for this purpose, it turns when you hammer it, JIS tip. Works great on Japanese motorcycle screws
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BI8HHQ
Impact drivers are great, but in a lot of places like this, they're hard use. The bit is too short and the bowl is too close. Also, standard impact driver bits are actually the wrong type of bit. They're phillips, but those screws are JIS.
You need some Impacta impact drivers. They look just like a regular screwdriver, but they have a cam in the handle, so they act as an impact driver when you hit them with a mallet. They also have a JIS point, so they won't tear up your screw heads. I bought some last time I was in Japan, but now you can get them on Amazon.
Klein makes really great stuff. My main go-to screwdriver right now is the Wera Kraftform Kompakt Racheting Screwdriver
The Wera Kraftform is really nice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tY4zDNlMU4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_enHTDb8WDTFR2
That's the ratcheting model I was referring too, unless there's a different model I'm not aware of.
I love the Wera Kraftform 816 RA ratcheting driver that I use at work. It puts my Klein to shame.
Wera Kraftform 816 RA Bitholding Ratcheting Screwdriver, 1/4" Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWZV0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_D6Ktub1F5YGHR
I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&pd_rd_w=jAo1O&pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&psc=1&refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR
Regular controllers are easier to take apart; elite is a little tougher. I would search a youtube video. I usually get a small flathead and prop it up where the triggers are, and then remove the sides with my fingernails; you can use your brute fingernails but that hurts for me. You'll also need a T8. If you have any extra Xbox One controllers that you don't really use, I would test run those first. As for the 'a' button, I've never had the sticky issue. You might want to take apart the controller and try washing the button or look for any problems that are causing it, around the button area. Putting the controller back together is really easy; just make sure you don't lose sight of the parts.
I've painted Xbox one controllers. You could always attempt to tighten up the screws a little with a T8 Security but that honestly probably won't do much. These controllers are assembled and fit together much better than the Xbox 360 controllers.
If you're going to take it apart or tighten it up. One of the screws is under the sticker under the batteries. Make sure you peel that off gently if you're going to replace it, because opening a controller up does void your warranty.
I'd just chalk it up to it being cheaper plastic than the 360 controller.
Here's the latest controller I've done.
The XBox 360 PC Wireless Receiver is cheap. If you're coming across controllers in your travels, it would be worth your while to invest in one.
Windows has built game controller testing functions that should be able to verify full functionality of the controllers.
I picked up a cheap T-8 security screwdriver for opening up the shell to clean them and occasionally replace thumbsticks. I come across truly NASTY controllers sometimes, but as long as all the buttons and sticks work it's just a quick dunk in the sink with the dishes to clean them up.
Sold several dozen so far, no complaints or returns!
you don't need any soldering iron if you want to do what I need, you only need a Torx T8H screwdriver (http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU) and a knife, or something to cut off some plastic.
http://imgur.com/H7nX1RD
This is the little bit of plastic that I had to cutoff
No IT guy should be without one of these sets:
http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html
Description doesn't name T8H but says "Star with center hole". I looked up T8H to confirm: http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU Yup, my set has that in it.
There's a HF in South Attleboro and one in Warwick. They always have the set in stock.
Most tradesmen and professional IT/HVAC use Klein
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32558-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B005FQDHBI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1397925731&sr=8-7&keywords=klein+11+in+1
I also own the snap on one spoken of. It's a little on the bulky side for computer work. But - I have had it 10+ years and still going strong.
Snap on also has a small electric screwdriver that is incredible! Batteries suck to replace on it though. (Or I would say BIFL)
Klein and Milwaukee both make good hand tools. Not sure which will be available down under.
I have the Milwaukee and mostly love it. Bits are a little annoying to get out of the handle, but I can replace them with any old 3 1/2" bit when they wear out (or to customize). That's harder with the proprietary Klein bits. The non-ratcheting version you can push the bits out through the top by inserting the old bit in the bottom, so swapping bits is much easier. Also it's magnetic, which the Klein is not.
I thought the ratcheting 11-in-1 would be super hokey and cheap when I bought my first one, but it and my lenox box cutter are the only 2 tools that I actually carry in my pants all day every day. In my opinion 30 of the best dollars you can spend on something you'll use every day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FQDHBI/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
Well if you work on your own computer you should have a electronics screwdriver already. Get one of these bad boys and you can use the flat tip to push the tab on them.
I love that they recommend multi-bit screwdrivers, but I prefer a small 4-in-1 driver and a larger 9-in-1 driver. I Use mine daily and they feel good in my hand. Love the suggestion for japanese style pull saws that the article gives. This article deserves a bit more attention.
This has just about everything you need for small electronic repair. I just checked mine and there seems to be a square bit that may fit.
ORIA Precision Screwdriver Kit, 76 in 1 with 56 Bits Repair Tool Kit for Cellphone, Game Console, Tablet and Other Devices, Blue
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f0CsDbWNH96T6
Edit: but/bit
I've used both of these cheaper kits by ORIA and they've been fantastic! Not sure about UK availability, but might be worth a look.
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536259932&sr=8-6&keywords=screwdriver+kit
https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Cellphone/dp/B01IVKPTP6/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1536259932&sr=8-21&keywords=screwdriver+kit
I thought it was spelled Murlock...but whatever anyways!
/u/Hansoda seeing as the thread that spawned initially wasn't super helpful, funny tho :P, what you want to look for is entry level helpdesk support or chat support or anything like that. ISPs are typically ALWAYS looking....but if you can avoid that hell please do, you'll keep your sanity a bit longer then us here :)
But yeah in short the things I would tell you to get an understanding of are simple really:
Um...that is about all I can think of :P sorry for the super long post mate but I hope this helps and gives you a better idea of what to learn/watch/know. This all comes from my own experience and knowledge as a person who started his IT career back when I was 18 for a Call Center/then my own business/then doing work for realtors/then consultant style work/and now I'm at what is basically a bomb and munitions disposal company haha; also I'm now 27 so quite a long time doing various IT work! :D
To add to the other answer, a magnetized screwdriver can be really useful. If you don't get a magnetized one, you can buy a magnetizer.
Homes, get yourself one of those demagnetizer/magnetizer squares, this way you have the best of both worlds!
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE
Same principle, but all of our techs use one of these.
They work rather well, especially on the smaller tools. Bonus demagnetizer.
If you want, you could buy one of these and you can magnetize them - its a excellent tool :-)
https://3ds.hacks.guide/installing-boot9strap-(ntrboot)
According to the guide I need a magnet to trigger sleep mode, but I'm concerned about my magnet being too strong or too weak.
Here are a few I'm considering
https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Powerful-Neodymium-Permanent-Scientific/dp/B06XD2X45M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527330981&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331185&sr=1-2&keywords=magnetizer
https://www.amazon.com/XLMAGNET-Countersunk-Mounting-Building-Scientific/dp/B077GNVYZR/ref=sr_1_9?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527331163&sr=1-9&keywords=fridge+magnet
I'm largely looking for one under 15$, and one that won't break my 3ds, or rather my New 2DS.
If anyone has any general tips or a range of magnet strength, please provide those too.
Klein just came out with this beautiful new hvac 6-1. It's perfect for diagnostics and light maintenance when you don't want to lug a bag, and it's so new I doubt he has one. I also love these.
EDIT: I totally linked the wrong tool in the first link. THIS is the beautiful tool I meant to share, although the first is very handy too.
Size 0 Phillips screwdriver. You can pick up one at many home improvement stores or get a set from Amazon kinda like these
I never bought a building kit, I just got a small screwdriver set and use that exclusively, mine is a little older, but something like this should work just fine.
Sorry for the double up comment, but if you're really interested in a kit, here are each of the tool's they'll give you
Feeler Gauge
Allen Wrench Set (this is actually more comprehensive)
64th inch ruler
Straight Edge (For judging neck relief/bow)
Mini Screwdrivers
String Winder (with wire cutter)
Compare to $60 dollars
$100:(http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Essential_Tool_Kits/Basic_Setup_Kit.html)
This actually seems like a solid deal, but you can get all of these at a hardware store for less and not pay for shipping and wait around for it.
Re: setting the blade lengths. Trial and error. I always start off a cable assembling session by testing the stripper and adjusting it. If it's not perfect, I keep adjusting it until it is. I just made what feels like a million DIN 1.0/2.3 to BNC cables out of 1855A with Kings connectors. Once the LC CST was set up properly it worked all day.
Wiha might not be worth the price to you, but it is to me. I take apart lots of computers and things with small screws. Whatever you get, stay away from sets like these. The handles aren't wide enough for a comfortable grip, and I've had a few where the screwdriver wasn't properly press fit into the handle, so the handle just spun around.
Herco HE826 Precision Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCUFT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ea92CbVBYJYDT
> I was thinking of buying an eye glass repair kit but wasn't sure it would fit. I was thinking perhaps you guys knew of where to get one on line that would work for sure.
I use something similar to this but it came with a bit more and I got it at Lowes, but that's just to give you an idea.
edit
Actually I have something EXACTLY like this
After you have read up on this stuff, watched coil build videos, learned ohm's law, etc. I have some gear reccomendations.
Sigelei 100W+ box. The plus version is what I have. Dual batteries in series (that means it has an input voltage of 8.4V) and output from 10-100W. Floating pin (meaning you don't have to adjust it for different sized atomizers). It also comes with a silicon sleeve if you are butterfingers like me. That should run about $100 from most retailers, give or take $10. If you're handy and have some time, you can build your own box mod using a few different chips (DNA30/40, Yihi SX350, etc).
That brings up my second piece, batteries. DO NOT skimp on batteries, you need good ones. You need 2 18650 batteries that you keep together and only use in this mod. Switch the positions of them each charge. I recommend Samsung 25r batteries. High continuous amp limit (if you exceed it then the battery might fail), but they aren't really pushed up that far on a Sig 100W. That is more important with a mechanical mod. You also need a charger, the Nitecore D2 is a great one.
Then for an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) I suggest a CLT V2+ like others here. It won't break the bank (about $35, or $12 clone from fasttech.com). Easy deck to build on because of the block centerpost. Good airflow, and you can restrict it as much as you need. You can also get an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer) like a kayfun, fogger, or orchid. I have had bad experiences with these, mostly because I fucked up when building. That pretty much ends up with the full tank of juice emptying in your lap. But it can be done. I prefer RDAs for simplicity and the ability to change flavors if I don't want a whole tank.
You also need wick and wire. A-1 Kanthal is what most of us use. Its cheap, and 28 or 26 gauge is a good starting size. Higher gauge means smaller wire and higher resistance. For wick, I use rayon and japanese cotton. Any of these will last you a long time.
You don't need a resistance tester if you get a sig 100W, but it will be more precise than the box. You also need something to cut cotton (it is way harder than it sounds) like tiny scissors and something to snip wires like small flush cutters. Tweezers to squeeze those coils and make them look nice and purty are also nice to have. A small screwdriver set is perfect for wrapping coils. "Coil Jigs" are overpriced and necessary.
I would buy all the stuff I linked through Amazon, its cheaper there than most vape websites. For batteries and chargers, use Illumn or Lightning Vapes. Wire, resistance testers, and tweezers are also fairly priced at Lightning Vapes. There are a few places to get the Sigelei 100W+ and the CLT v2+. Fasttech is amazing and I love China. This site carries cheap clones of other devices. Good place to get RDAs if you are willing to wait for shipping and read the reviews/discussions. There are so many things I would never purchase because they are out of my budget that Fasttech made available.
cotton
wire although 24g is preferred
coil tools you also need tweezers
ohm meter, Mechanical mod, battery charger and rda can all be bought on fasttech or 101vape.
batteries(sony vtc,samsung 25r) should only be bought from trusted sources and i buy mine at a local B&M. so i cant help there.
These are the ones I have, fairly cheap and several sizes/ heads. (Amazon link)
What screwdriver set are you using? I have this set which has the correct bit but its not long enough to reach. :(
Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ
I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.
If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers
Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S
Lots of people. The Wiha set linked to doesn't have the bulb in the middle. OP if you're set on having a bulb I can recommend the Stanley precision screwdriver set. Very affordable and available everywhere. If you don't mind a set with bits I love my Boxer set: https://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
Else suck it up and buy the Wera set.
I'm a fan of these: http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-Precision-Screwdriver-PK30/dp/B000FGQ1G6
They've served me well for glasses and computer repair! Magnetic too, though not so much that I've seen issues when putting my computer together...
I like Wiha like everyone else has been say, but I've also liked my precision set from Boxer for some of the goofier torx etc bits.
Yeah the screwdriver that is provided isn't very good, it sucks. I usually recommend to people if they have their own 1.5mm hex/allen screwdriver, then use that. In fact, it's good to just invest in one one, you can get cheap sets on amazon (I use the one below at work when I'm not using the electric gun I have):
http://www.amazon.com/Boxer-Pcs-4mm-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B000FGQ1G6/
Go for the cheaper one, but I really like my Boxer set.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FGQ1G6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405346699&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
Yeah I used a t5 and it worked perfectly. I have this set
I mean what are you even using that Milwaukee thing for?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-5-TPI-AX-Carbide-Teeth-Demo-Nail-Embedded-Wood-Cutting-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-1-Pack-48-00-5221/300122018
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-6-in-24-Teeth-per-in-Thin-Metal-Cutting-SAWZALL-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-5-Pack-48-00-5186/100050151
The saw zall blade isn't as efficient as the the actual rock knife but it's close enough and it means you get to carry 1 less thing. In this case maybe 2
Edit:. Replace all those screwdrivers with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NI7RRS/ref=psdc_553336_t3_B001HSNHM2
All the but have a long shank so it will fit anywhere. You can take out the shit you won't use and it will be lighter and take less room
Buy here: http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS
I just randomly stumbled across this...
For lighting, I use these for like 90% of the work. The other 10% is for special occasions that rarely come about, but if you're in LX then it's a solid investment:
The other 10% is just unique situations. You don't need a cable tester if you have a multimeter, you can invest in that later if you really use it that much. It does make things quicker though. Whomever you're working for should provide gaff, sharpies, notepad. You can invest later if you find you need it a lot.
If you're up in the air a lot and tired of using phone cable or tripping on tieline for your wrench lanyard, then use a pistol lanyard; it's nice and rated and keeps out of the way. Scaff wrench? maybe if you're working with truss a lot, even then you're using it 10% of the time and you need a mallet to go with it. I'd also recommend steeltoed boots, for when idiots drop scaff wrenches on your foot. RedWing will last you forever and they have warranties. I like military/ tactical ones though, 'cause they're built for the beating and you can find breathable ones easily.
Alright I'm done. I don't even know how I got here....
> EDIT: I also live in southern California if anyone would like to give me some good stores I could probably browse around.
which bit set did you get?
i see this kit, but it's not ratcheting: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS
i see this racheting driver: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWZV0/
but i don't see a kit that has the bits and the ratcheting driver. do they make t he above set but without the driver so that i can get the ratchet one separately?
I have found some tools that get good reviews and keep weight down:
https://www.totaltools.com.au/68591-bahco-3-piece-ratchet-spanner-set-s4rm3t
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500&artID=34171
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver-33-Pieces/dp/B000NI7RRS
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/bahco-268-mini-hacksaw-6-inch-150mm-p28022
It's a bit over the budget of 50 bucks. But I have this set (actually mine has a ratchet handle but can't seem to find that). This is probably the best thing I have in my toolbox. I work in wind energy and this thing is a work horse in my house and out in the field. I love it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI7RRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510208455&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wera+kraftform&dpPl=1&dpID=41aFHGJxLRL&ref=plSrch
>i heard about removing spirngs on shoulder buttons but idk if it would make things better or how to even do it.
Here's the tri-wing screwdriver you need. Or you can ask members of your scene if they have said screwdriver and to bring it to the next event.
Here's a crude but helpful video on how to remove the springs.
And remember, removing the springs will keep you from being able to light-shield in Melee. So keep the springs around in case you want to revert back.
despite not having anything on your want list, I wanted to ask about the Wavebirds. have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them? are there dead spots on the actual boards? it might benefit you to take them apart and dust them. that helped me with a wired Gamecube controller that had a sticky X button and one of the sticks acting weird; now it's in perfect working order. if you're able to find the receivers, that would also help you be able to get rid of them. people rarely want controllers with no receivers, and you also can't very well test them without at least one.
if you don't have a tri-wing, you might have some luck taking them apart with a small flathead screwdriver. I did that before spending $3 on the tri-wing one that worked pretty well since I was careful and didn't force it badly enough to destroy the heads of the screws. I know from experience that the tri-wing screwdriver works for Gamecube controllers, the DS Lite, and GBA carts. I've also read that it will help dismantling Wiimotes, the Wii itself, the Gamecube console, and quite a few other of Nintendo's things. it's worth the $4 if you have any technical knowledge and would trust yourself taking things apart. which I understand many people wouldn't, which is also fine.
and actually, upon further inspection, and after clicking the link to your full want list, that was a lie. I do have a spare copy of Wind Waker without a manual, but I certainly won't be trading that for some half-dead controllers with no receivers, especially if the boards are what's shot.
also, I'm pretty sure that Platinum Game Boy Players were Japan only, and are relatively rare, so I wish you the best of luck finding one. I would love to have my Game Boy Player match my beautiful platinum system, along with its controllers and two of my Wavebirds, but I guess it just wasn't meant to be, and I don't care enough to invest in such a swap when there are games I could be getting instead.
I own two pro controllers and I love them for Wind Waker, Pikmin, and Tropical Freeze. I'm pretty sure it'll be a great substitute for Gamecube controllers. The color scheme is a bit of an issue, as there currently exist only 2 colors, black and white, and if you want every controller to be different, the only thing you can do (which I highly reccomend) is to take the controllers apart with a fancy nintendo screwdriver and trade the buttons around.
There is nothing I know of to protect your existing thumbsticks but you can easily replace them. By buying a triwing screwdriver and replacement thumbsticks from amazon or ebay.
Triwing Screwdriver : https://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467355222&sr=8-2&keywords=triwing+screwdriver+gamecube
Replacement Thumbsticks : https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Analogue-Thumbstick-Gamecube-Controller/dp/B01D0Y63NU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467354830&sr=8-3&keywords=gamecube+sticks
Happy Cubing!
Malthris
If you're a computer tech, you should have no problem. I'm not familiar with this issue, so I have no real information to add. Except that I've been opening and cleaning all of my Nintendo controllers, NES through Wii remote. And they're all fairly easy to disassemble and reassemble. My guess would be that you've just got some human dirt/sweat/goo on one of the buttons. A cotton swab and alcohol will make it feel brand new. You'll probably want to invest in a Nintendo screwdriver as well. Mine has proved useful time and time again.
http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1422383033&sr=8-4&keywords=nintendo+screwdriver
Two. A small philips head size ~00 and a triwing
should be all you need. Maybe a thin flathead or something in case you need to pry the case apart.
Don't buy a new controller, clean/ fix your existing one. It will cost a lot less (~15$) and you will be able to clean/fix all of your other controllers as well. May sound weird because I'm telling you to fix your existing one but don't buy replacement joysticks... the rubber will just fall off on those too... =[ Ive wasted some $ on shitty "replacement" joysticks that don't even last a day. Buy 1 pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Cyber-%E3%83%BBPremium-Slide-Cover-Clear-Black/dp/B00UURTXK6/ref=sr_1_1?s=instant-video&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479033751&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3ds+circle+pad+cover and glue it to your joystick. I used an epoxy resin because i figured it would do the best gluing plastic on plastic but super glue would probably work too. You should still buy a tri-wing screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/Gen-Lite-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Tool/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479034061&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=triwing+screwdriver and some wet-wipes to get inside the controller and clean up a bit. Mine works like brand new but even better because the joystick will never wear down. I'll never part with my original orange GC controller >.<
No luck at Home Depot...but looks like this guy isn't shipping from halfway around the world, and should do the trick.
You can email any of the sites that have a shell that you like. And you'd just need a small triwing and a small Phillips head.
Are you open to suggestions?
If you haven't already ripped the packaging off of it, my personal recommendation is to not use the Klein non-contact voltage tester (ticker). My experience with it was not good. It was unreliable and the on/off button is junk so the damn thing would never turn off, then it would sit and beep at me constantly while it was in my tool pouch. I finally got rid of it and bought the Santronics ticker. Easily one of the best purchases I've made as an electrician. It's always on, silent, and extremely reliable.
Also, for your hammer I would recommend one with a longer head on it like this one. The reason for this is because you will be doing a lot of work with deep 1900 boxes and 11bs (don't worry if you don't know what those are yet, you will find out soon) and if you're using fasteners that require pounding in with a hammer, you will need a different hammer than the one you have. If you're doing residential work and need to pound staples inbetween studs, you can just use the side of your hammer.
You can probably just return those gloves. You will (or should) be provided with work gloves (many, many pairs of them) at every jobsite you ever work at. You'll never have to buy another pair of work gloves in your life, I can promise you that.
As others have said, get the Klein multi-tool. The 32500 model is the one I use, along with some other commenters in this thread. They are cheap, you'll probably lose the tips every now and then, but it will easily be your most used tool, especially if you're doing a lot of devicing.
Another personal recommendation of mine would be the Ideal Tool Backpack for hauling your stuff around. Sometimes there's a lot of walking involved in getting to and from jobsites, and being able to carry your tools on your back is a lot nicer than carrying them in your hands. It's also nice having your hands free for carrying your lunch box around!
Congratulations on getting in! Keep up a good attitude and you'll do fine. Don't let anyone get on your nerves. 8 hours is 8 hours, make the best of it at all times.
You get what you pay for. I wouldn't touch a $40 cable tester, much less a tool kit.
You can spend money wisely, like buying a Klein 10-in-1 or 11-in-1 for PSTN/POTS outside work.
For precision drivers, Wiha is what you want- this is a nice portable set which works on the bench as well.
For crimpers I currently use an Ideal Telemaster but will be switching to an Amp. For cable testing I use a Fluke Cable IQ or LinkRunner.
Your tools need to be better quality that the amateurs that banged on it before you. You definitely don't want crappy tools to be holding you back.
If you are worried about theft, sign the tools out to individual techs and make them responsible for them. Part of the sign-out process should be an authorization to withhold the replacement cost from their paycheck if they lose anything.
I keep one of these in my kit, my friend has a picquic and it's nice however I find if I'm working on something that requires me to switch bits back and forth the Klein is better.
Klein Tools 32500 11-in-1 Screwdriver/Nut Driver with Cushion Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TSy5wbW1531PA
> Klein tools 11in1
Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Industrial-Klein-Tools-32500/dp/B0015SBILG
My Essentials for an Electrics call
Ultimate Focus Tool: http://www.fullcompass.com/prod/224936-StageJunk-7280-RT/
Adjustable C Wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-Double-Speed-Adjustable-Wrench-96596/203467743
Screwdriver (multi bit) Similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3NM0LBGK3Q7YA&amp;coliid=I3TJ4V0YRRN22T
Belt Tether: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007H6DRGO?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Leatherman Surge: http://www.leatherman.com/surge-3.html#start=2
Mini Mag Light: http://www.amazon.com/MAGLITE-M2A016-Mini-Flashlight-Black/dp/B00002N6SL%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffsb-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00002N6SL
Gloves Preferably leather for heat protection when focusing, good dexterity for tying knots and I generally like a Velcro latch on the wrist to give a snug fit
klein I use this nearly everyday
Ran my own PC business for a couple of years.
Craftsman Mini Shop Vac. Make sure it blows and sucks. Put it in the corner of your workshop, extend the tube to your current project and kick the switch.
Screwdrivers: Klein 11 in 1 all the way.
Multitool: SOG Powerlock
When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:
Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.
[Buy this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DYVCX/ref=pd_aw_sbs_469_of_13?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51g-Z1pBaDL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C130_&amp;refRID=1H6ZNBA1E0MZHKZ6PSNA)
[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4KP4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463466314&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=knipex+mini+pliers&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HdNhgMdeL&amp;ref=plSrch)
[And this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_aw_vtph_469_bs_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1NT2WRRQR46AWYKGDRHJ)
Add in your knife of choice.
[And keep one of these in the trunk just in case something can't be fixed] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LS4HZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463468221&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=stanley+fubar&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=216GABuqFaL&amp;ref=plSrch)
As a fellow 60 guy I strongly suggest these:
Anex 6102T Ultra Low Profile Screw Driver Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4M8gDbY8YCDK3
They make life a lot easier is several locations such as the M/R de-ice harness and in the broom closet. Made in Japan.
I've used one of these to get to screws holding in window trim on a car, I ground off the flat bit on the other side:
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-offset-ratchet-screwdriver-set/p-00904116000P?gclsrc=aw.ds&amp;&amp;sid=SLIAx01191011x000001x1979005196&amp;utm_campaign=1026411&amp;utm_group=71283841136-352491908817&amp;utm_term=pla-761465361272&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg4CN5LDA5AIV5__jBx0JTgDNEAQYAiABEgIocfD_BwE
There's also this:
https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI
I've also used a shortened Philips bit in a quarter-inch ratcheting wrench, held in place with hot glue. When I was done, I warmed it up with a propane torch to loosen the glue, then cleaned all the glue off. Here's an example before cutting off the unused part of the Philips bit:
https://i.imgur.com/jLmcVML.jpg
Low profile screwdriver. Saved me from taking the flaps back off.
https://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539793196&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=low+profile+screwdriver#sp_detail_feedbackForm
[This would probably work.](http://www.amazon.com/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_5_N7MF?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=040JJ0P4FEWZRNRWTDZX
)
this will do it https://www.amazon.ca/Anex-6102T-Profile-Driver-Handle/dp/B0016VAIBI
http://i.imgur.com/lr2wjGW.jpg there are two screws that i cannot get with a screw driver... Maybe using a very small allen wrench can get them but even that is hard to find
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kzybvb173A7CZ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016VAIBI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kzybvb173A7CZ) i found this buy $18?? Really?
German "Wera Kraftfortm" tools only
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Micro-Set-12-5073675001/dp/B009ODV0PI/ref=pd_sim_469_58?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B009ODV0PI&amp;pd_rd_r=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8&amp;pd_rd_w=TU3HU&amp;pd_rd_wg=Fkh24&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=6FPSJM18T1DH9XRB69R8
and
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05051024001-Kraftform-Bitholding-Screwdriver/dp/B001HSNHM2/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493822380&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wera+tools
Can't recommend these enough
A multi bit screwdriver.
Wera 051024 Kraftform Kompakt 25 Pouch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HSNHM2
It's a set but I've got one of these and I love it. It has all of the bits you would ever need.
Other than that, I've found these:
okay how about this screwdriver?
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
it might be just a tad big for my hand but the release mechanism... it's not pop out is it? that black ring is the slide back 'n forth release kind is it not?
balaclava
neck scarf thing
decent earplugs
decent earbuds
ram mount
(worth it)
ratcheting screwdriver
hex bit set for their screwdriver
compact air compressor that runs off a battery tender quick disconnect
key tags
clothes
etc
I know this isn't what you're asking, but I have a similar item that I use for everything The previous version of this screwdriver has lasted me for 14 years now and the only thing I've changed are the bits. I've gotten quick enough with it that it's almost like a cordless battery powered screwdriver in speed.
I have this and the ratcheting version for work. The only difference is that the one in the video actually locks the bits in. Amazing screwdrivers and they're worth the premium price.
For a way cheaper option I found a Stanley driver, or this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451685487&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ratcheting+screwdriver
Is this what I'm looking for? Like does it have the same functions of the one that Linus uses? Like u can turn the nozzle of the screwdriver or turn the whole thing, makes that ratcheting noise Etc...
Thanks for the reply!
I have one of those, the 2x4 version though, and it came with a nut driver.
I'm not sure the size of the nut but if you lose the driver it comes with or yours doesn't come with one for some reason you can buy sets of bits like this for cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2938-Quick-Change-Detents-14-Piece/dp/B007BLZ7TK
Of course you'll also then need a bit driver like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0
Which categories do you need the most stuff in? Tools? Kitchen? Clothing?
Some tool ideas for you:
Wiha precision screwdriver set
Williams ratcheting screwdriver, same as snap-on
This one?
Williams Williams WRS-1 Magnetic Ratcheting Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NI1LZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eLE3DbZGPQHA9
This is who makes it for snap on. It’s exactly the same, just missing knurling
I wasn't ready to spend Snap On money, so I got a Williams WRS1 and it's fantastic. Very similar to the Snap On, just has no knurl in the shaft and probably a couple less teeth in the mechanism. Still, it's served me well.
Gotcha! All I know is that he has a Honda. What do you think about [this screwdriver] (http://www.amazon.com/Vessel-125941-P2x100-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BI8HHQ) that AnnoyedDouche suggested?
Use an impact screwdriver. Vessel Megadora 980 Impacta... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BI8HHQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
There's this one, too.
I got one of these - I haven't yet put it to a real test but seems promising.
here's a video of it in action
I have one of these, it is best of both worlds. Impact + JIS Also JIS works wonders in with Philips screws.
It's not a multitool but this is the most portable screwdriver I can think of that can use multiple bits.
Maxcraft 60609 7-In-1
Or use amazon.
cr2032 battery
Small screwdriver
You can probably find a better/cheaper screwdriver at a hardware store though.
What size screwdriver will i need to build my pc? i am using a Phanteks case with a b350 tomohawk MoBo.
Will this be enough? or would i need another type of screwdriver
My favorite accessories are a 32 piece precision screwdriver set, one of these http://www.amazon.com/MAXCRAFT-60609-Precision-Pocket-Screwdriver/dp/B003BXS4T2 and a dremel.
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Title | How to build a computer in 30 minutes with EasyPCbuilder! - Gaming PC
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Title | What is a Core i3, Core i5, or Core i7 as Fast As Possible
Description | What the heck is the difference between a Core i3, Core i5, and Core i7?? What do these terms mean? Vote for my next punishment: http://bit.ly/linuschoice Check out Fractal Design's excellent products: http://www.fractal-design.com/ Intel's Naming Scheme Guide: http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/processors/processor-numbers.html
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Title | SSDs vs Hard Drives as Fast As Possible
Description | SSD vs HDD or hard drive is a question that I get a lot, so I took a few minutes to answer it for you. Enjoy :) Sponsor message: Give Audible's monthly audiobook service has more than just audiobooks! - use audible.com/techquickie to get the first one for free! Sponsor Link: http://audible.com/techquickie
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Title | What SSD To Buy As Fast As Possible
Description | What should you look for when buying an SSD beyond capacity and sequential performance numbers? Dollar Shave Club link: http://dollarshaveclub.com/linus Follow: http://twitter.com/linustech Join the community: http://linustechtips.com
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Title | What is Overclocking as Fast As Possible
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Title | How To Install Windows 8.1 From USB Guide/Tutorial (Easiest Method)
Description | This is a real quick guide on our preferred method of installing Windows 8.1 from a USB flash drive. There are lots of other ways, but this is the one that is consistently most reliable and super easy to boot! What you need: 4GB+ Flash Drive Links: Get Windows 8.1 ISO from CD Key: http://windows.microsoft.com/en-CA/windows-8/create-reset-refresh-media Get 90 day Eval copy of Windows 8.1: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/evalcenter/evaluate-windows-8-1-enterprise Windows ISO to USB tool: http://...
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Title | How to Install Windows 10 from a USB Flash Drive
Description | How to install Windows 10 from a flash drive. you would need a 4GB USB flash drive, or 8GB for the 64-bit version. Microsoft Windows 10 https://goo.gl/QbeS9R Disable UEFI http://www.avoiderrors.net/?p=18375 Change the boot order http://www.avoiderrors.net/?p=10562 Upgrade to Windows 10 If you don't want to loose data: https://youtu.be/e07j60JK58A How to Format and Clean Install Windows 10 https://youtu.be/E49IjCMKU4g
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Description | Squarespace Sponsor Link: www.squarespace.com/bitwit 10% off with offer code BITWIT Here are some handy things I've collected over the years for smoother cleaner PC building. US Klein No. 2 Phillips 7'' Screwdriver: http://amzn.to/2cu6zrA Maxcraft 60609 Pocket Screwdriver: http://amzn.to/2d139f3 ModRight Mod-Mat: http://amzn.to/2cqQVRa ModRight Mod-Mat XL: http://amzn.to/2d34jcG Capri 10012 Magnetic Screw Tray: http://amzn.to/2d13Chz Delcast MT02 Magnetic Project Mat: http://amzn.to/2ccZM7z A...
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that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.
Replenishables
contractor things
and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P
It was not hard to build the mobo into the case, just keep on top of your cable management. If you can, remove the HD sled first (unless of course you need it). All the screws come with the products that I purchased, yes. Be careful about stripping screws, just use the proper driver (no power!). I believe I have 8 standoffs mounted + 1 nub that comes pre-attached to the case. I probably watched ALL the youtube videos, lol. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=fractal+meshify+c+build
Things I made sure I had for my build before all my parts showed up.
I got most of these items as a tip from a youtube video but I can not find it at the moment. Yeah, definitely let me know if you need help with anything or just want me to show you "how I did it". The manual for the mother board has the header LEDs defined on there, there is one dead spot (no pin) in the top right, obviously dont use that one but also don't use the one below it even though its labeled ground for the reset button (thats the only issue I had).
Wera tools are awesome. As aviation mechanic I use http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397926134&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Wera+ratchet+screwdriver every hour of my workday. The fact that it can carry other bits I need really comes in handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Kompakt-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B004VMWYCU/ another great deal... scroll below for the other buying options. KK 27 RA is on sale for $28.96
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004VMWYCU/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
How does the "chuck" on the Wera Kraftform 816 RA work?
Does it only accept hex bits with detents (such as those designed for use with impact drivers)?
This is the screwdriver
Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JY6hAbR89T4RM
And I can't find the joysticks.
those are actually a standard screw head. here's a much cheaper option for the security T8 http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Screwdriver-Security-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462761254&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=security+t8
No idea. I only know the terms T8 and T8 Security. The one with the hole in the tip is what you want.
This is perfect (see the picture)
http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393986996&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t8+security
This is the one I bought.. (bad pic on this though)
http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL--Security-Screwdriver-Wireless-Controller/dp/B008YCEVII/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393986996&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=t8+security
I used a really small drill bit that could fit into the screws and was able to unscrew it easily. Then I took it apart and I looked at the analog sticks and how they were soldered. Drifting is due to the potentiometer thinking there was an input. So I just resoldered all of the potentiometer leads, put it back together and it works like a charm.
Didn't cost me a thing. However I did later on find the right type of screwdriver needed to remove the screws.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YUB6ZU?pc_redir=1409364451&amp;robot_redir=1
Amazon, iFixit, Sears, Walmart, and Canadian Tire (if you're up here).
I have the same issue and so do many others. It hasn't impacted game play but you are right, it is annoying. Is your console still under warranty or did you buy the extended one by chance? I have sent a couple of mine in when they got to the point where the joystick felt a little too loose for my liking and they sent me free replacements, no questions asked.
If not, there are several tutorials on Youtube that show you step-by-step how to open up the controller and fix the problem. You do need a special screwdriver, though. This is the one I bought to have on hand in case I ever needed it in the future. The description of the product says Xbox 360 but several people have mentioned in the product reviews that it works on the Xbox One as well.
Use this inexpensive tool to open it. Take it apart and clean it with warm water and soap. If your keys are sticking then maybe you can sand down the buttons just enough to where they no loner stick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YUB6ZU/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00
I dunno about the Bahco, but the Williams you listed is supposedly the same as the Snap-On I have. I was thoroughly unimpressed with it. If you go that route you might as well grab a Milwaukee ore Klein for $15-20. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-2302P-Ratcheting-Driver-Compact/dp/B017PPK4NA/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457472542&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=milwaukee+ratchering+screwdriver or http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32558-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B005FQDHBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457472613&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=klein+ratcheting+screwdriver
Go with the Klein because is Made in Merica, or go with the Milwaukee cuz it comes with a free stubby.
Have you seen the klein? Its not a metal body but it has the same tip twist mechanicsm thing.
ORIA Screwdriver Set, Magnetic Driver Kit, Professional Repair Tool Kit, 76-in-1 Precision Screwdriver Kit with Portable Bag, Flexible Shaft, for iPhone 8, 8 Plus/ Cellphone/ Game Console/ Tablet/ PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6/
I've used this website to confirm that my N64 carts are real.
Check this out!
http://jackblackregion4.blogspot.com/search/?q=super+smash
From what I've seen so far all of my carts have the gold nintendo logo on the board. The pictures you have don't! I'm sure its a fake.
I would also suggest having this in handy to double check your cart is real, Especially since n64 flash carts are being sold now.
https://www.amazon.com/Durable-3-8mm-Screwdriver-Cartridges-Nintendo-64/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509764303&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cartridge+bit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one has served me well since mid 2017. No issues with it, comes with a cute little bag and a couple of peripherals.
This guide is pretty good for controller maintenance: https://smashboards.com/threads/technical-knowledge-compilation-gamecubes-controllers-tvs-recording.335040/
2,4,5. Your best bet is soap and warm water or some other house hold cleaner. I use a toothbrush, you could use a cotton swab instead. I read that isopropyl alcohol damages/discolors the controller if overused. I use it anyway with cotton swabs for all the nasty bits. If you want to clean the the shoulder buttons, you will also need a Phillips screwdriver to remove the shield.
In terms of difficulty, your only problem is losing the buttons, pads, and screws. I dip my parts in soap water and scrub with a toothbrush, that’s it.
If you want to clean the stick box itself. I just use rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab to clean up whatever is exposed and dirty. As for the inside, you will likely need a soldering iron. Refer to the guide for disassembly and maintenance.
Electricians daily toolkit:
Klein Pliers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000BYDNE?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=vrefid-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=B0000BYDNE&amp;linkCode=xm2
Klein 11in1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015SBILG?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=vrefid-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=B0015SBILG&amp;linkCode=xm2
I have a set of these that work wonders in tight spaces:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016VAIBI/
$15 might be a bit steep if you're not a tool hoarder like me, but there are plenty of good alternatives for under $10 in the related products lists. Good luck!
I've had the stanley fatmax racheting screwdriver for years now and it works great. I replaced the bits that came with it with higher carbon bits (much better since they don't dull as quickly). If there's one minor annoyance it's that the mechanism for switching directions is near the shaft of the screw driver, so every once in a while i'll accidentally turn it. But all in all, it's pretty minor, and I really like this screwdriver.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-69-189-Ratcheting-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver/dp/B002I3TDP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457891231&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=stanley+ratcheting+screwdriver
Mine.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVKPTP6 More tools than you'll ever need
Ive never had an issue with losing any of the bits, unless I forget to put them back in. The only other ones I can think of is a Wera Kompakt or a Crapsman Auto-Loader
I know exactly what you're talking about. I have one that's not craftsman but some other no name brand. It has a clear handle and red top and bottom. It took me a long time to find a similar replacement online.
The trick to finding them is to search for Auto Loading Screwdrivers. This ones seems similar.
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Auto-loading-Multi-bit-Screwdriver/dp/B00333Q27Q
To be honest though I don't think many manufacturers make them anymore and instead do just the multiple bits stored in the handle style.
For casual use I love the little clear handle autoloading driver. But over time I've become very accustomed to this guy as well. It's a standard, multiple bits in the handle kind, but with a really nice feeling ratcheting action. Its the same one that Snap-On rebrands.
https://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK