(Part 3) Best spray paint according to redditors
We found 831 Reddit comments discussing the best spray paint. We ranked the 297 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
orrrr ima buy normal timbs for $120, order some ugly ass green paint from amazon for $7 and save 800 bucks. with that much money saved i can mail a letter to virgil abloh telling him to go fuck himself every single day of the year
For your first BJD, I'd recommend saving a little longer and buying one with a faceup. A lot of times it can actually end up cheaper than buying all the materials. A lot of sellers have layaway, for example Soom, Denver Doll and Alice's Collections. If you're buying used, some sellers also offer layaway.
If you feel like trying it yourself though, there are lots of tutorials here. You do need sealant (Usually Mr. Super Clear) and special elastic. The elastic is round and very strong, not like elastic meant for sewing. Sometimes really tiny dolls are strung with monofilament, like fishing line. Dolls normally come strung though, so that shouldn't be an issue. Dolls are occasionally sold as kits, but it's not common at all.
I'm not sure why a lot of BJDs look sad; I like to have dolls with a variety of expressions. The great thing about BJDs is that there's so much variety, you can find (or create) any expression you like.
This is what I used specifically.
I’m still considering the top coat. I’ve read a lot of people used the Rustoleum crystal clear enamel and then there’s an automotive clear enamel. I’m gonna research that a little more tonight. It has to be good enough that UVs aren’t going to turn it yellow.
Rust-Oleum 271473 Universal All Surface Spray Paint, 11 oz, Flat Metallic Soft Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F87S31I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pMLIAbSW0RBNR
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1937830-Metallic-Spray-Copper/dp/B000I1AXVW
I've got a bunch of things that I rattle can painted and they quit smelling after a few days. There are definitely a bunch of down sides to spray painting your shoes though, like what if sweat releases the paint and you have half chrome feet for a month.
Fabric spray : Dupli-Color HVP106 Flat Black High Performance Vinyl and Fabric Spray - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00098PO3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aBB7ybV3KD6QQ
Chrome bumper: Krylon Looking Glass Silver-Like Aerosol Spray Paint 6 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003971BAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iAB7ybV60J0S1
Spray Paint, Green, 11 oz..
Price: $6.99
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I base most of my terrain on MDF - about 1/4" or 5mm - 6mm thick. Cut out with a jigsaw, round off edges with a sander.
You didn't say what country you're in. I'm in the USA and this is the primer I've been using. It seems to work.
1" Wood discs + Black Primer = instant bases in bulk.
Use painter's tape and put it sticky side up on a cardboard mount - an easy way to do this is wrap painters tape sticky side out around an empty box so it also sticks to itself and stays on the box. Stick rows of wood discs on the tape, spray black. Let dry, flip discs, spray again, let dry. Remove discs, throw box away.
Glue Minis to bases with a couple small drops of crazy glue. Really simple, really fast, nice and neat looking.
Steampunk starter kit. And intermediate kit. And expert kit.
I seal my acrylic alters with two coats of this to prevent flaking or scratching. It does the trick.
If there is any increase in thickness, it's entirely undetectable.
Also, it gives the finished product a more even appearance. Transitions from non-painted to painted surfaces on the card are less noticeable when the light hits the card from an angle that might cause a glare. I think that's largely due to the matte finish of the spray.
Hope that helps.
Try using the same product but from a can. Spray it lightly in order to seal up the edges of the older paint. A few coats may be enough. Once the edges are sealed up, you may decide to use the mixed product for a thicker application in order to better match the surrounding areas. Good luck.
I used this because it was cheap and I didn't want to run down to Lowe's.
One can should be enough, that board is 42.75" long and 10" deep (I think) and I still had some left over in the bottle after three coats.
Thank you! Most credit goes the florist on the centerpieces- I just added the candles, table runners, and table numbers.
The gold spray paint I used was this Rustoleum. I used it on sooo many things; the candlesticks, the table numbers, cake stands & toppers, etc. I think I went through like 4 cans lol. Conveniently, I came across this blog post where someone craftier than I had already done a detailed gold spray paint comparison and I just chose the one I thought would be best and stuck with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1010A-Premium-Metalic-Original/dp/B000C027P4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1451962870&sr=1-1&keywords=krylon+chrome+spray+paint i used that for the base "chrome" look & http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Plastic-Model-Finishing-Gloss-Enamel-Paint-Set/p/953 this for the detailing paint. Take your time. if you screw up wipe it off with a damp rag immediately and try again.
On the 'you can paint these' route - it looks like they used something similar to this paint: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1910830-Metallic-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B000QD3GPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453220885&sr=1-1&keywords=gold+spray+paint
Rust-Oleum Brand?
I bought the chalk paint on Amazon. I didnt like how the chalk paint at home depot performed. It was also difficult to find black at HD.
My review of the chalk paint is good. I used an electric sander to remove the protective finish with 120 grit. It took two coats of paint and dried quickly. I haven't had any bad experiences with writing on it yet. It seems to take the chalk nicely. My method of cleaning it so far is with just a wet wash cloth. I want to try an actual chalk eraser to see if that works.
Here are the specific products I used:
Masonite, Chalk Markers, and Chalkboard Paint. I also used a slightly different color set of sidewalk chalk like this that I bought at a drugstore. If I had it to do again, I might spend some time looking for a thinner Masonite board.
ETA: I realize my bar for "sustainable" is likely lower than some, but I live in the DC area, so my main concern was reusability. It's also worth noting that Masonite board was designed as a way to reuse wood wasted at factories back in the day (although Masonite the company doesn't make masonite the material anymore, so I have no idea how the material is sourced now.)
This will work. Voids your warranty, though.
Look at Krylon's Fusion for Plastic. It is designed for stuff like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321001-K02321000-Plastic-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM
The only people having problems with this design are the ones who haven't seen a rack of these paint cans. Literally, hundred of colors, all perfectly labeled.
Look at this image on amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/Montana-Popular-Colors-Graffiti-Street/dp/B010GY2QWO
Is it so bad a design that the color is misleading or indiscernible? If you were to buy this can, you would see tons in a case just like this. Y'all just want something to be angry about without all the facts. #fakenews
This is what I've been using recently. (I get it for like $10 a can from Walmart)
http://www.amazon.ca/Krylon-Clear-Finish-Aerosol-11-Ounce/dp/B001HWCLK2
As for how it looks, my Duel & Buster were sprayed with it so you can check them out below
http://imgur.com/a/HmPeu
Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1910830-Metallic-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B000QD3GPW
Since you don't know what you're doing, if it doesn't leak, I'd just reglaze it with something like this stuff and call it a day. They have a brush on version too.
Mask everything off really well if you're going to spray and make sure you have good ventilation. Clean and prep according to instructions. You can't get it wet for a few days so you will have to use your bathroom sink or tub to wash up dishes. Other than that as long as you don't clean with abrasives it should hold up. I did a tub at my mom's house with the brush version of that and 10 years later it still looks good.
You can put a piece of 1/4" plywood or luan or something on the bottom of the cabinet to clean it up. Home improvement stores will cut it for you. I've even seen people use a cutoff of sheet vinyl or cheap vinyl plank flooring for that purpose too.
Paint the cabinets and change the handles out. Don't sand unless you've tested for lead based paint. Caulk all your wet surfaces back up and paint the walls. Maybe have a plumber come out and change the faucet to something a little nicer if you're feeling adventurous. I would let a pro do this if you're going to attempt it though.
Problem is, if it's that old and you take the plumbing or base cabinet out, there will most certainly be some issues found along the way that will derail what would be a fairly simple project. Since you don't own it, what are you going to do if you bust it out and run into some disaster?
I have done work in old houses and found things like water damage, buried electrical boxes, newspaper stuffed into crevices, asbestos, lead paint or rodent damage and more. I've had old fixtures break off and new ones not fit back on without a lot of replumbing. So you never really know what you're going to get into.
No worries! I totally forgot to ever come back and add links.
For the black primer you can use any kind, I would recommend looking for one that says it bonds with metal.
For the chameleon paint I used this one. You should be able to find it at Auto Zone, or at least that's where I got mine. They might also have different color combos like a red/orange one and a more green/blue one. For the holographic (spectraflair) top coat I used this one.
You'll have to let me know how it turns out!
I used a spray lacquer - satin finish. This is the one.
My experience comes from painting rockets (which include plastic nose cones), not helmets, so take my advice with a grain of salt. Try to separate the shell from the innards so you don't end up painting those.
Yes, you want to sand the surface you're painting, use 100-220 grit or so. Roughing it up will really help the paint adhere.
Put on a couple coats of primer (I've had good luck with krylon), sanding between each coat, use 220 and 340 or even 400 for this step.
Put on multiple coats of your paint on, but be very light with each coat, you want to avoid having the paint form drips and runs, no sanding needed if you avoid drips and runs. I'd reccomend this for matte black paint.
Finally, you want to put a clear coat on it afterwards to protect the finish from light and from handling, I've had good luck with this on matte paint jobs, some clear coats will just make it glossy again, this one hasn't for me.
Final tip, make sure you read the instructions on the can about how long you need to leave it alone before you apply another coat, this can be vital for attaining that smooth look you're after.
Be sure to post pics when you're done, and don't hesitate to ask more questions.
Make it happen
Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.
So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.
The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear
I got you covered!
Can we spray paint the shadow a lime green?
https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Paint-Green-11-oz/dp/B003GMMJ4Y
I would guess the brand of spray paint would be Montana paint. It's top of the line for graffiti work. I found a video of the Hard Deco group and the cans look to be Montana to me.
OP mentioning they were bought at a specialty store makes me think that as well. They are typically a store or two that stocks graffiti items in bigger cities.
Oops! I lucked out then. I guess I just looked at the cap of the spray can and went with it. (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1937830-Metallic-Copper-11-Ounce/dp/B000I1AXVW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484775726&sr=8-3&keywords=rose+gold+spray+paint if anyone wants the link).
The dinosaur figures I sprayed turned out great and exactly as I envisioned.
You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/
https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/
Take it from someone who works with 2-5 RA surfaces all day... the finer the finish, the harder it is going to be to protect it - and without the use of liberal sanding or finishing it's going to be rough for you to churn out anything close to what a well programmed CNC lathe capable of 9000+ rpm can do. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B002DTL7ZS#customerReviews on my models, it holds up very well, I can't imagine it'd do any worse on a top.
For building gunpla or models in general (including resin cast kits) people use stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523076243&sr=8-4&keywords=mr+clear+spray
I did this: https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K04293000-Camouflage-Technology-11-Ounce/dp/B00176UX26
Result: https://i.imgur.com/wJ87qsr.jpg
This is it. It comes in black, white, gray, and red.
Are you talking the krylon paint for plastic?
http://amzn.com/B000GONZC0
The different colors on amazon are $8-12, I'm not sure how good of a range of colors there are though.
They sell satin nitro. http://www.amazon.com/Deft-037125017132-Interior-Lacquer-12-25-Ounce/dp/B0016KXBU4
Mine is 22 years old, purchased by my dad new and given to me and still going strong. I work from home so I’m sitting in it 6-10 hours a day 5 days a week. I had to replace the lumbar support bar, the foam pad near the bottom of the seat and the meshing on the seat itself part but otherwise it’s been a dream.
Also, for anyone that has the dark gunmetal gray “base” (is that what it’s called? what the wheels are attached to) the Rust-Oleum in flat metallic soft iron is a perfect match for the factory paint. I have a tendency to put my feet on that part and wear the paint off. Every few years I take it outside and give it a touch up.
If you’re looking for a matte sealer, maybe you could try Mr. Super Clear?
It’s a very popular sealant in doll customization, I’ve heard good things:
It’s on amazon
If you want a custom color that you cant find in a shell, i recommend Wiggy's guide on painting.
https://rosecoloredgaming.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/wiggy-how-to-and-restoration-guides-2-lets-paint/
Its SUUUUUPER helpful, i suggest this type of paint for the actual color, works wonders.
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM.
Any type of promoter should work just fine, just read the directions, it took me about 2hrs to paint my DMG turquoise, and i let it dry for about 3 days.
Personally, I'm a fan of Krylon.
There's this stuff called Spray Deft, you can get it at pretty much any hardware store. It's a clear wood finish, but you would spray it on the helmet so you wouldn't have to touch the autographs at all, just a few light coats of it and you should be good. I'll try to find a link to it here in a sec.
Edit: Here's a link to buy it on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016KXBU4?pc_redir=1405491571&robot_redir=1
Rust-Oleum 280882 Specialty Tub and Tile Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T82712Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_suZdBb0V6XJ8A
Also available in quarts.
You can purchase copper effects paints. Two options:
There are some copper gels for electroplating, but they aren't cheap and require a lot of optimisation. For you, it means no bath is required.
Another idea instead of black and white paint is chalkboard paint too.
Painted the face-plate of my Steam Controller with Rust-Oleum Galaxy Blue color shift spray paint. I've never spray painted anything before, but it turned out pretty decently. Obviously not great but good enough for me. It looks a lot better in person, especially with the way the color changes depending on the angle you look at it.
I also added GT-5000 grip tape to the triggers, bumpers, and paddles, with strips on the side (got the idea from u/Giom8's post). In addition to that, I used electrical tape on the bumpers, pads, and paddles, to make them quieter and softer, and have installed u/gregregorovich's D-Pad analog stick replacement.
Edited my previous comment with the link, but here's a picture of how my bike turned out
Picture
Link to the clear again just in case
The vinyl has to be clean. So washing it to removed dust and debris is a good thing. You can use a pressure washer, but a stiff bristle brush and warm soapy water will also do the job nicely.
To make your chosen paint stick there are two ways to go: use a bonding primer, or use a paint made for plastics.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/KILZ-Adhesion-1-Gal-White-Bonding-Interior-Exterior-Primer-L211101/204763136
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM
I was thinking about doing the same thing to my gun. By any chance do you remember whether you used this or ......this?
I need this jelly roll pan and this chalkboard spray paint, because I'm making a magnetic chalkboard! It's going to hang in my room, and residents will be able to play with my magnetic poetry while we talk about their problems or whatever. :)
to infinity and beyond
It's a neat look. Rustoleum's spray is called Mirror Effect, and Krylon's is called Looking Glass. I haven't tried either of them, yet, but they seem to have similar reviews.
Krylon Fusion. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K02321000-Plastic-Aerosol-12-Ounce/dp/B0002YUDJM
I would imagine it's more trouble than it's worth to get the glass out of the door. Might be a better bet to try something in this vein.
Yeah, I've heard rustoleom works, though I personally use This Stuf, Really works, trust me.
I haven't tried it yet, but the artist who I've been following most closely as I learn about sculpting uses Krylon matte finish spray (this one I believe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=twister_B004JLA2OU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1), and her stuff doesn't seem to be shiny. Her name is EmilySculpts if you want to check her out.
So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?
Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418826&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+matte+spray
And this for a gloss/metallic? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418918&sr=8-3&keywords=to+coat+gloss+gundam
I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)
Yes.
This is how you can tell what color each can is.
Rust-Oleum makes a bunch of different types of paint. You're gonna want to look for the 2X series, like this.
You could always just get a plain plastic mannequin and paint it with chalkboard paint or whiteboard paint.
You can also get custom temporary tattoos so you can test your image out on yourself before getting it done permanently.
It's this
going by what this product page says their clear coat is acrylic based, meaning that in theory putting enamel based products over it should eat it away and ruin your paintjob. However, not all acrylic products are chemically the same. for example Pledge floor care is an acrylic varnish and when applied via aribrush or brush over gunpla it acts as a good gloss coat for the enamel wash.
Your best bet is to go with a lacquer based gloss coat to put your panel line wash over. don't worry as these won't affect your paint underneath as long as your paint has cured. brands that are at the top of my head are tamiya and mr. super clear.
Yes, I used this (and use it on nearly everything I paint) https://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249088-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494256717&sr=8-1&keywords=gray+primer
Does anyone know if this would be a good finish to go over the paint?
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-11-Ounce-Clear-Finish-Aerosol/dp/B001HWCLK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422148850&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+clear+matte
Here it is. It's a bit more than usual, normally it's around 23.
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-254860-11-Ounce-Specialty-Galaxy/dp/B0058I2I5O
http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1010A-Premium-Metalic-Original/dp/B000C027P4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406075920&sr=8-2&keywords=chrome+paint
There goto town!