(Part 2) Best spray paint according to redditors

You can buy a spray that will make the glass hazy (like a bathroom window). It's removable.

But yeah, your landlord sounds like a piece of work. Have you asked him directly how he expects you have privacy and avoid being a target for break-in?

just spray paint them

thank you!

It was pretty simple. I used painters tape + an exacto knife to mask the underside, and used two coats of my go-to spray paint.

Blue ring is just as bright as before. I took great care to not directly spray into the crevice, and I think it worked well!

After two weeks, I’ve measure a mean signal loss of 1.2db. In the same timeframe I’ve pushed 6TB of data through it and haven’t noticed a difference.

I’ll most likely be doing this to a few more in the near future and can post a more detailed process with pics, if anyone is interested.

I’m also curious about, and me being me, will likely experiment with aerosol rubber, and vinyl.

Acryllic paint used. Acryllic colors work best on fabric. This converse sneaker uses canvas fabric.

Steps for the artists over here :D

*Shoes must be brand new or crisp clean before painting*

1. Remove shoe laces. Tape the unwanted areas like the sole border on bottom and the rubber toe part with masking tape to prevent accidental paint drips.
   
   
   [Step 2 is required if your base color of shoe is non white. If it's complete white then you can start painting directly. ]
   
   
2. First apply a base coat of white two times over the complete area you are planning to paint.
   
   
3. After base coat start painting stuff you want like colors and stuff.
   
   4)Paint the leaked edges, borders or mistakes you made while painting by covering them with black acryllic paint again. (black used here since the color of sneaker is black so it hides after drying)
   
   5)Once you're happy with the paint, coat it with a sealent spray 2-3 times to prevent the paint form getting exposed to dirt and stuff. Make sure the sealent has matte finish or you shoes will turn out glossy lol. I used this spray sealent
   
   
   EDIT : Added instruction for white sneakers @ step 2
   
   EDIT : Added sealent spray link.

• Right Side
  
• Left Side
  
• SPR Targets
  
• Album (all 3 pictures)
  
  
   
  
  Noveske
  
  Lower
  
  
• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele High Speed DMR Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Precision Match Grade Nickel Boron BCG
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
   
  
  
  Colt
  
  
• Colt 6920 M4 Carbine (started as a stock Magpul edition)
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Battlecomp 2.0 Compensator
  
• Eotech XPS 2-2
  
• Primary Arms 3X Long Eye Relief Magnifier Gen III
  
• Primary Arms Quick Detachable Flip To Side Magnifier Mount (Standard Height)
  
• Troy Industries MRF-C FDE BattleRail
  
• Magpul MOE FDE Grip
  
• Magpul CR123X2 Grip Core
  
• Magpul CTR FDE Stock
  
• Magpul Enhanced Rubber Buttpad
  
• Magpul AFG2 Grip
  
• Magpul MOE Trigger Guard
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Troy Rear Folding BattleSight
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Streamlight TLR1S Weapon Light
  
• Badger Tactical Charging Handle Latch
  
• Noveske QD end plate
  
  xpost from /r/ar15
  
  Edit: updated links

Use spray paint that also advertises as a primer. It will make no observable difference if it blobs up or runs a bit.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Don't get too hung up if it's flat white, gloss etc. That only has to do with the amount of diffused reflection versus spectacular reflection. It does not make that much of a difference if the light source is close to the plant. It will make a difference if the light source is further away from a plant where you would want a more specular reflection.

For very high reflectance use white paint with barium sulfate added. It will beat most all other white reflective sources.

http://www.triticeaecap.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Barium_Sulfate.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/Pyro-Chem-Source-Barium-Sulfate/dp/B00JGDLLR8

This is how it looks currently. Just replaced the head gasket, rockers, water pump, etc and all that good stuff. I'm gonna paint the trim, bumpers, flares, grill and head light housing, and the thing with the light in it that is over the license plate. I'm also going to remove all the badges and replace them with black ones, including the front "Jeep" badge. However, they don't make a Sport badge like the one I want so it's going to have to be a vinyl decal.

My plan is to take all the trim off, remove reside with goo gone or simple green, sand then clean everything, let it dry and mask it all off with blue tape and brown paper or plastic sheets and go to town on it with a few cans of this. I'll remove the grill and headlight covers and do them separate. As for the red stripe, I'll tape it off and do it with blood red Montana Black spray paint.

Few questions for you guys that did similar jobs already:

• What do I use to seal it?
  
• Do I need automotive sealer?
  
• If so, what brands?
  
• Where is a good place to get new badges (or is it ebay)?
  
  Next upgrades;
  
  
• New front & rear bumpers (suggestions? Don't want a stinger or anything too bulky, needs to have recovery points)
  
• Red LED for the interior dome light
  
• Lund Moon Visor or similar (Polish one on ebay?)
  
• Roof rack (or roof tent?)
  
• Camper conversion? I measured out the cargo and passenger area, after I move my spare I think I'm going to build out a platform and get a memory foam pad so I can camp right in my XJ.
  
  Thanks for reading!

I posted this guide in the comments section on my post on /r/smashbros , just in case anyone is interested.


Take apart the controller, obviously, and separate the top and bottom shells. Use a tri-wing screwdriver, I found mine on amazon for less than a dollar (shipping included, the price is subject to go up). I've read about people using a small phillips screw driver, and sort of forcing the screws to turn. If that works for you, great. I wouldn't try it, though. Why damage the screws when you can do it the right way?

1. Sand the shells down. I used 220 sandpaper, higher grit would be better. This gets rid of Nintendo's top coat, and allows the paint to fuse to the plastic better.
   
   
2. Wash the shells with soap and water. This'll get rid of all of the dust from sanding, and also make sure you're not painting on top of any sweat or dirt.
   
   
3. Primer? I didn't use any because the spray paint I had is designed for plastic and doesn't require primer. Unless you have this kind of spray paint, you'll need a primer.
   
   
4. Spray Paint. I did 2 coats of red. Keep the bottle a good distance from the controller and it'll turn out good.
   
   
5. Clear Coat it. I bought a clear coat designed for plastic. I actually wish the finish was a little different, but it worked perfectly for what I needed it to do. The clear coat will protect the paint from damaging. So if you drop it, the idea is the clear coat might get scuffed but the paint won't chip. (Also other obvious protection from aging etc. )
   
   
6. Let it dry for as long as you can wait. Honestly, 2-3 days is ideal. It may feel dry, but it's not. The paint takes a long time to set. You might even be able to use it a few hours after painting it, but I promise you it'll turn out better if you let it dry for a couple of days. I was really anxious to take the picture, so I let it dry from morning to night and then put it together. I took the pic, and put it in a well ventilated and cool temperature room of my house. There it will dry for a couple of days before I am ready to let my friends play with it.
   
   Good luck and post pictures! /r/customcontrollers & /r/smashbros
   
   

I would strip the bubbled area with acetone or some paint stripper. There’s no need to completely strip off the coat, it’s a pain in the buttstock (Get it? buttstock instead of butt). Spray light coats with matte camo paint. I have painted 20ish firearms and I prefer this paint.

Rust-Oleum 269038-6 PK Specialty Camouflage Spray Pack, 12-Ounce, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ROI59I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WCupDbDG9TNMW

Let dry outside about 30 minutes per coat. After 4 or 5 coats the rifle should be good as new. Let the paint harden for 24-48 hours before going to the range.

Ugh, yeah, that sounds annoying. Repeat after me: "Thank you for making that suggestion. I appreciate that you always share your experience and knowledge with us. Let me write this down to discuss this with FH, since it is his wedding, too, and I want to include him to make for a good partnership and marriage." Take a pen and write down her suggestion. Toss the idea, secretly.

For the deck boards: cut / saw them into the shape you wish for, write whatever you want to write on them and spray paint them with 'clear finish' (acrylic paint, like this). Then dip all edges into wood glue and glitter. It won't be ridiculously expensive, but it will look finished and upscale IMO.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-269038-Specialty-Camouflage-12-Ounce/dp/B009ROI59I

GW sprays have a very high cost, and people have had numerous complaints about how runny they are.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200064

It's always been suspicious that GW is very reluctant to ever call their sprays "primer" even though that's the advertised intent of the sprays. They call them "spray paints" and "undercoat", but never primer... even on the bottle itself.

Even more odd is that their sprays used to be labeled "primer". They dropped that ever since they revamped the cans. The White spray they have on their site is an image of the old can, you cannot get sprays that have that labeling anymore:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470015a&prodId=prod1200062

Again, opinions of course. If you want inexpensive yet good, I've heard good things from Krylon primers:

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367785170&sr=8-1&keywords=krylon+primer

If you want expensive yet (arguably) great, I use and love Army Painter primers. The nozzle never clogs, and the spray is really really strong and clean. I've found that even when I spray too closely and seem like I've obscured the model details, the paint dries and everything is fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Matte-White-Primer/dp/B004VEO5FM/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367785212&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=army+painter+primer

I rattle-canned my rifle and for the first week or so it felt a little sticky, but apparently it was because the paint hadn't fully cured yet. After that first week it felt great for me, you just have to be sure to do multiple light coats. I would do a light coat and wait for half-an-hour before doing another coat. I used Rust-Oleum Specialty Camouflage and the colors are all pretty matte.

Perhaps a pattern in frosted glass? You can make a stick-on masking stencil (Modello will make you a custom one for the dimensions of your window) and then use a frosting spray to add the pattern. You can also use removable frosting-look decals. Use a pattern that you like or go crazy, frost the entire thing except "portholes" where you want to be able to look out.

If you are feeling architectural you can add window lattice. Painted garden trellises might even do the trick if you want to save money. How much space/land do you have outside the windows? You can mount the lattice immediately outside, or place them as a wall a few feet in front of the window if you have space. You should be able to see out, but it will be hard for others to see in.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253256-10-Ounce-Translucent/dp/B0070S7ZXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414042988&sr=8-2&keywords=headlight+tint+spray

Silver or Black, you can try to find other colors.

Degrease with mineral spirits first. Use very light coats, stuff likes to run.

Note that headlights are plastic, so i have no idea if this stuff will stick to glass.

For those interested I loosely followed this guide. Getting the rubber coating off was a total bitch but the end result was worth it! Since all I had available was glossy paint I opted for a matte clear to achieve the look I was after. The pain used was Rustoleum 2X Gloss Grape and Rustoleum Matte Clear Coat. I'm happy to answer any other questions about the process as well!

Wow thanks guys! Basically I disassembled what I could and then taped off everything I couldn't and I didn't want to be painted. Then I used this spray paint https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ROI59I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . and I went over it from about 10 inches away pretty lightly. Then I repeated that till it looked clean.

Thank you! I've put some of this on.

I think rust oleum has a "chrome" can.

Like this

Thanks! For the Thomas helmet, I started with a chrome motorcycle half helmet as the base. Then I used chrome (mirror) vinyl to cover the visor and stuff (that's the really shiny part).

The chrome spray paint I used on the ear pieces can be found at any hardware store (rustomleum, krylon, etc.--something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7718830-Bright-Metallic-11-Ounce/dp/B000Z8DGXK)--but it's not as "mirror" like as the helmet or the vinyl. It's more "silver" than chrome.

Hope it helps!

18 KARRIT GOLD PLAT! LIK MAH GRILZ!

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1000-Premium-Metallic-Spray/dp/B000BZX3H6

Yes, there are topcoats specifically for blocking UV. Here's an example.

Unfortunately, I think you got a primer that does not bond to plastic, as I am not seeing it on the link you linked, however I am absolutely no expert.

As for the rust-oleum I use and see recommended, it is this type Rust Oleum 280704 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, Gray Primer, 12-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZ6M3CW/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_6-3YBbWEXF5MQ

Which does bind to plastics and says so on the can. You can get it in white, black, gray, etc.

Here's black.

Make sure you get the "flat" colors (see the bottom right of the picture on the label).

Here's Krylon, it works too if you can find it.

I believe there are high temp clear enamels that may work for your use

Edit: rustoleum has a clear coat engine enamel good for up to 2,000 degrees F. here's a link

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

has the jeep xj on the logo. I used it and loved the results, and it sticks. tried heat gun, this is easier and im more confident with it.

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

i dont think you need any liquid sander, i'd just was the case with soap and water, dry well then wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.

Hit it with a plastic primer (white so you dont need as much paint to cover up the black. this will also help smooth out the texture so you get a smoother shinier finish
http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/plastic-primer-spray

get some krylon fusion paint (its maid for plastic specifically) and spray it. it should already be pretty smooth and glossy if you want to got a step further get a spray on clearcoat gloss http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-2444-Fusion-Plastic-Clear/dp/B001TNMWBM you can add a couple layers of this to help protect the paint give you a super glossy finish.

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I made one but I decided that I was going to go balls deep and try one of the most difficult designed mau5 heads out, the disco head. Long story short it cost me about ~$300 to make, not counting 2 others that I messed up on.

Materials:

-Head

-Eyes

-Head Mount

-Mouth Mesh

-[2] Led lights for coloring the eyes

-Superglue for mouth

-[2] Plastic glue for Headmount

-About [6-10] Rhine stone glue bottles

-[3] bags of Rhinestones

-Foam Ear material ---> With Ear template

-Washers -[4] Threaded Rods -Wing nuts

-Chrome Spray paint

-Lastly, Insulation Strips [White]

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Stuff I had: Dremel, stubbornness, no life, sharpies, too much free time.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Use any of the above tuts to get the general idea.

The template for the ears, (mine are huge).

Once the mouth is cut and you accounted for the eyes (pop the eyes in half and trace them on.)

Spray paint the whole head chrome, in light mist layers. The more layers the smoother the finish.

Once that's done, enjoy the 90+ hours of putting each rhinestone on, one by one.

Profit.

Should it not dry to your liking, use the glue again and do NOT dilute it with water. Then use something like this over the dried glue, because without it the shade will be a dust magnet. The spray will make it easier to clean.

I always use primer. It really helps in all the ways previously mentioned. After some experimenting, I really like the Krylon range https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-51315-All-Purpose-Interior-Decorator/dp/B001B73WCO

Just hold the models about 1.5 - 2 feet away, and go in short bursts. Never let the can stay still while spraying. All you need is a very thin, even coat all over the model. Don't worry if it doesn't look good, the worst thing you can do is go overboard and start filling in details. Shake the can often between sprays as well.

Yes there is a clear coat you can spray on. It's cheap and easy and you get what you pay for (not as good as a real polishing).

You can use any clear lacquer. I've used this before on rocks

i personally used one of krylon’s “premium metallic” series. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZX3H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NANzDbHV3CS3Y) i’m pretty sure i used the 18k version that i linked. i got it in the intent of making the gold parts like shiny and anodized, but it came out pretty well anyways. i washed the runners with dish soap and semi-warm water, and then painted them on the runners. if you need to cover up the nub marks, just use a gold gundam marker. but it shouldn’t be too obvious without it though. i personally painted the parts while they were on the runner, because it was just way easier than painting one part at a time considering how small they all are. just make sure whatever you use is what you want, so really if you really want to make sure that you’re going to paint a part a specific color, cut out a rod from the runners to be sure.

I'm a really big fan of liquitex paints from hobby lobby. Big bottles are great and you can just dump a ton of paint on it. They're actually pretty good quality acrylics, and I use them for larger monsters/minis... although the pigments aren't small enough to use with small detail work.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Painting-Supplies/Acrylic-Painting/Liquitex-Basics-Acrylic-Paint-Set---6-Pieces/p/80855309?gclid=CjwKCAjw7anqBRALEiwAgvGgm1hefM4EKJg1N9jPOgKUT9oZ4Kfx8dB1YrgIencoSQwYghpiOmeFGhoCwRsQAvD_BwE

​

Also, I almost always just base my terrain with either black, gray, or white primer. Then apply my paints in layered highlights until I get the effect I want. It works well enough and saves a significant amount of time.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=asc_df_B002BWORRW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198077767340&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7988992819377697018&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019109&hvtargid=pla-343196559114&psc=1

(The red primer is actually a nice brown, and I use it as my basecoat for most things wooden. I just apply a highlight of a light brown acrylic and I'm done)

EDIT: I just realized this is Terraino subreddit. Careful with this paint on foam as I've only tested it on 3D printed and injection molded parts.

This stuff is basically XTC 3D in a can:

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-I00500A00-12-Ounce-Triple-Aerosol/dp/B001144TJC

A vinyl film is going to cut a lot of light output, even if it is clear. Vinyl is not a great/good/decent choice for a lens cover.

You could try to apply an actual optical filter meant to shade a theater lamp, such as this: http://us.rosco.com/en/products/catalog/roscolux

I think that the daffodil is closest to selective yellow. The other benefit to using these, is that theyll withstand the heat, and also be optically clear.

The spray paint is also optically clear. It fairly UV resistant, but should be topcoated with this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLQ0JI/?tag=2402507-20 ) to increase the UV and chip resistance. I've had good success with 1 light base coat and two medium-heavy coats of the yellow duplicolor, topped with one medium-heavy coat of that clear. Make sure to clean the glass lens very well, with a paint thinner cleaning. The cleaner the lens, the better the paint sticks.

As far as upgrades go, Im sure the morimotos are an upgrade from a beat up oem headlight, but, despite their popularity, they arent great lamps. Good on you, sticking with 4500k burners, as they are the most efficient. Lightsource does matter, regarding the tint, as HID burners and LED chips produce a much greater quantity of blue light than their halogen counterparts. Good vehicle lighting is generally not inexpensive, though there are some exceptions.

Legally, in the US, you can run 4 forward facing illumination lamps. So 2 low beams and 2 fogs, or 2 highbeams and 2 driving lamps. But not highbeam and fogs, or lowbeam and driving.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7578838-Professional-Performance-15-Ounce/dp/B000PIEWLA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1398391364&sr=8-5&keywords=black+spray+paint

Yep, this.

• I do 120 or 150 grit to keep a smooth base so no sanding marks make it through the paint.
  
• Wash with soap and water and let air dry over night before starting to paint.
  
• Get a decent primer that says it works on plastics -- I use Rustoleum primer and it's a general use + plastic primer.
  
• Adhere to your dry times religiously. If it says recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours, don't cheat that. At all. There's a reason it has them. Spray paint cures in part by having curing chemicals mixed into the paint evaporate. If you spray an extra coat before those chemicals have evaporated much at all, it's fine. If you wait for them to completely evaporate, great, they're gone and the paint is cured. If they're in the process of curing though, you'll mess up the coat beneath. It's awful.
  
• I would also highly recommend a top coat of some kind. I really like Rustoleum Clear Gloss Automotive Enamel It's the toughest top coat I've ever used and offers a glossy finish that's not mirror-sheen glossy like you'd get from Krylon Triple-Thick Glaze Put two light coats, then the last one till it looks nice and wet and it's fantastic. Let it cure for a day or two so it hardens -- full hardness in a week as stated on can.
  
• A single-pass light sanding with 600-grit (450+ would likely work) between base coat and top coat can also help adhesion of the top coat. Just be really light with it. Optional.
  
  Here's my QFR that I painted. It has a fair few process pictures.

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462834803&sr=8-7&keywords=rustoleum+spray+primer

this seems really expensive though. You should be able to get this for $4-$6 at a big box store. Walmart might have it in their sotres as well.

Awww yeah

I used rustoeleum spray paint. Sanded the body down first and then applied 3 coats. The black looks great. I also used a glossy red which hasn't held up nearly as well. PM me for a picture.

I second the use of spray on rubber, or even truckbed liner

It is. And I used a can of gold metallic paint. Don’t forget to cover the stones before painting.

Krylon Metallic Gold Paint

This is what I was thinking of: Krylon 51313 Satin Finish Crystal Clear 11 Ounce Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKY3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C.pZBbK7DTVWF

It sprays on shiny, but clear.

Coyote Brown 12 Oz. Spray Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPH4SMU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Krylon K05131307 ColorMaster Acrylic Crystal Clear, Satin, Clear, 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKY3I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hWU3CbYZKKJJC

I sprayed it on half at a time so it would dry without any marks

Could you try spraying the bottle with a clear coat after you've drawn the ink? Something like this

That's what I'm going for, but the rest of the wall was painted years ago, and I'm patching small holes. Not sure if it's worth it.

Does this stuff work on walls?

TL;DR -- I did not use a primer, and I did completely paint the inside and outside of both panels. No fitment issues, only issue due to extra thickness from the paint was the screws struggling a little bit during re-installation.

Satin Black

Satin Clear

Those are the paints I used. I did not use a primer. I went with satin on both because I was after a matte look like the main black body on the stick. I didn't want them glossy like the original white panels. I did paint the entire surface of the panels. The only thing I noticed was the screws struggled a little bit during re-installation but that was to be expected and really wasn't an issue. I didn't and haven't noticed any other fitment issues from the paint.

For preparation, all I did was wash the panels to remove any dirt/oils and then used the finest sandpaper I had on hand to sand/scuff up both panels to help the paint stick better.

If I remember correctly, I did two (maybe three? sorry it was a while ago) coats of each the black paint and the clear top coat. You will want to spray a good distance away from the panel you're painting, at least 8-10 inches, and nice smooth motions, you kind of want the paint to fall onto the panel lightly, if that makes sense. It helps to avoid runs and imperfections.

I used a paper clip in the screw holes to help me manipulate and hold the panel up as I was spraying so I avoided finger prints and also keep it propped up during drying so it didn't stick to the cardboard box I was using. Between coats check the entire panel for runs or clumps and if there are any, wet-sand those areas smooth with the finest grit sandpaper you have before you apply the next coat.

Once I was satisfied with the look/finish, I let it dry for 72 hours. I just wanted to be sure that everything was DRY before securing them back on the stick. Obviously, you can still use the stick during this, it just looks weird without the panels.

Doing it this way was not 100% ideal or correct I'm sure, I'm not a painter and haven't had much experience with it to be honest. There are one or two imperfections, which I suppose I could wet-sand and repaint, but I don't notice them. They are small, and i don't feel like doing that process again for one or two small imperfections. I am very happy with the look and outcome of the little project and happy I did it. They look so much better black than they did white.

Hopefully this post is of some help. Good luck, you will be very happy you did it. It is worth it, the stick looks so much better.

I used this to finish all of the spray painted pieces.

Krylon Satin Finish Crystal Clear Interior and Exterior top coat.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKY3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

It feels the same as a regular store bought controller to me. I see the indentations but I don't really feel them on the painted vs unpainted ones. They pretty much feel the same to me overall. There's 1 or 2 spots on the purple one I missed with the clear finish that I may redo at a later time but it's kind of where your left index finger sits below the L and ZL buttons so I'm not super worried about it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001144TJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502415650&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=krylon+crystal+clear&dpPl=1&dpID=41MGd%2BvBXVL&ref=plSrch

I would try something like this. You can also get it from Home Improvement stores, or Walmart/target/wherever.

You can also purchase a spray can or window filmer, like this. It comes off with acetone, not water, so you should be able to wipe it down while adding privacy.

Otherwise velcro seems to meet your requirements; stick one side to the molding, the other to your plexiglass. probably add a handle or two to make removing it easier. Can also cut holes in the plexiglass for finger holes and/or ventilation.

You dont necessarily need to use Mr. Top Coat or Testors. I used a Rustoleum Matte clear and it came out just fine for me...my only gripe wasn't with the matte coat but me going to heavy with the Future clear and trying to correct it.

after removing the case I gave it about 8 light coats of this with about a half hour between coats, then after a few days I gave it a few coats of this. just make sure its clean before you do start and wait a couple days after you finish before you put it back on

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1000-Premium-Metallic-Spray/dp/B000BZX3H6

+

Corsair fan rings.

Don't breathe the dust.

they are so cheap i say just go for it. No idea too crazy!

remember the goal is rain resistant not fully waterproof.

here's some ideas

neverwet

or maybe just a clear coat?

some sort of box around it?

if you do paint it just tape over the emitters and receiver

just make sure to use a power supply that will shut down if their is a short or over current and everything should be ok.

edit:

also this.

Doesn't look that waterproof to me but there it is. I assume they mean just the black sensor but if you enclose the rest of it, should work ok

i took the rim off of a 10 gallon tank i got from the dollar per gallon sale at petco. here is the picture. i used about 4 coats of this for the background and it worked flawlessly!

make sure to wear gloves and use some tools to help break the silicone bond

Thank you! Yes, I use acrylics and then I spray it all with a Clear coat spray paint for plastic. I personally recommend this one if you are intersted.

n_n No problem! I hope you have fun. Please please please share how you paint him when you get to him.

I'm not a master artist, and I like to save money where I can, so I've been using Rust-Oleum Specialty Clear Matte Spray ever since I started, and I've been very happy with the results.

Use Rustoleum plastic primer and Rustoleum chrome or metallic silver. If you read the instructions and practice on something else to get the hang of it, you should get a really smooth finish.

That's an interesting idea. Whether you plan on painting the reso bass head or actually just re-coating your batter heads to save money, this stuff is a good place to start: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249058-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWORRW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rustoleum+2x+primer+flat+white&qid=1562532126&s=gateway&sr=8-1

There might be other more textured sprays you can get, but before you spend a bunch of time and a tiny bit of money re-coating old beat up heads you might just consider how nice a brand new head would sound.

Rust-Oleum 253256 Specialty Lens Tint Spray Paint, 10 Oz Aerosol, 8-10 Sq-Ft/Can, Translucent, 10-Ounce, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070S7ZXA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_a3YEDbC70PTZR

You could also seal it with a clear spray when you're done, just to be sure.

i haven't tried it myself but my research found this to be aquarium safe.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-251574-11-Ounce-Bumper/dp/B005H5P5C6

Thanks for the info. So this should work fine

https://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6M3CW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487963991&sr=8-1&keywords=primer%2Bspray%2Bpaint&th=1

No, that's usually enamel based (and hard to work with)

Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/280704-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6M3CW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540593013&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rustoleum%2Bprimer&dpPl=1&dpID=41h8AzYPgPL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

Just normal household spray paint, and I like priming in my base color, or the lighter of two if doing 2 tone light/dark schemes

Wash everything down with soapy water first (even if it's new and doesn't look dirty). I'd replace the adhesion promoter with a good plastic compatible primer, I've had a few issues with Krylon primers and plastic, but this stuff worked great for me. Also, make sure you know what grits to reach for during the sanding process. You'll want to sand the primer at about 400-600, base coat 800-1000, clear coat 1000-2500. With dry times, make sure you know the paint's recoat window. Also, before sanding, make sure the paint is hard or it will gum up the sand paper and tear it off the surface you're painting.

Also, after clear coat you'll want to sand again, you will need some rubbing compound and polish for this step as well since sandpaper is too coarse to get the shine back.

I used Rustoleum Pro line flat black on mine. No peeling. I don't know if that is what you are looking for though.
EDIT: Don't know if that is the texture you want, and it does chip after a while. Look into getting an etching primer before you lay down the bed liner, it might stick better

Which one of these sprays should I get to coat it?

1. 2, or 3?

this would work better. The high heat needs really high heat to "bake" on and cure.

You can use tint spray on your front indicators, they also sell pre-smoked ones with LEDS. Motodynamic makes a really nice smoked LED tail light for your bike. Check out the video at the bottom of the page.

I actually just sprayed my Thomas helmet with Rust-Oleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish and, while it didn't come out nearly as good as a chrome would (I wanted to be sure that it would be done by halloween), it does look pretty good. Here's what it looks like with that metaillic spray paint without any sanding which would have done a world of help (don't zoom in too far, I had to crank up the iso since my apartment is so dark, so they're pretty noisy).

Here's the full build album, if you're interested. I've still got a ton more work to do, such as finishing fiberglassing the inside and applying bondo to the outside.

Clean your screen as good as you can. Cover everything but the screen and lightly hit it with this clear coat spray until you get a clean finish. It will fill in all of the cracks and give you a new finish. It will last for a couple months too while providing protection against further damage.

There is no way to permanently fix scratched glass.

This build will be able to play anything at 1080p 60fps high settings:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor | $79.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $54.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Windforce OC Video Card | $216.89 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $34.97 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $605.05
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $595.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 00:58 EDT-0400 |

If you want 4k 60fps high settings, you're going to have to significantly increase your budget:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card | $514.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $72.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1148.69
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1138.69
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-07 01:01 EDT-0400 |

Edit: Here is the stuff you'll need to paint your case orange:

https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Assortment-Automotive-Furniture-Finishing/dp/B01MZALAD9/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502082191&sr=8-5&keywords=sandpaper

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-280715-Primer-American-Accents/dp/B00KZ6LLZW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082223&sr=1-1&keywords=white+primer+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/280698-American-Accents-Orange-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LVUW/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082246&sr=1-2&keywords=orange+spray+paint

https://www.amazon.com/Oleum-280702-American-Accents-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LYMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502082271&sr=1-1&keywords=spray+paint+gloss+finish

I used this: Rust-Oleum 248914 Automotive 15-Ounce Truck Bed Coating Spray, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT49B2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U6UPAb7WD5K2Y

You can also find it at Home Depot or Lowe’s.

Rustoleum bed liner?


https://smile.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248914-Automotive-15-Ounce-Coating/dp/B003CT49B2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481008368&sr=8-2&keywords=rustoleum+bed+liner

Thanks! It really isn't hard to keep clean. Rags get caught on it so a medium or soft brush when washing it usually takes care of the bugs. This is what I used on the flares, although I think I used a "heavy duty" version on the bumpers, but I can't find it online and only found 4 cans at one store in town when I did it originally But the linked stuff is basically the same stuff from what I can tell. The main thing remember is to prepare the surface of the chrome. Rough it up real good ;). I've only had a couple small chips to touch up in 8 months, so I'd say it's held up well.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-2444-Fusion-Plastic-Clear/dp/B001TNMWBM

Make sure it the FUSION kind. I have not put this items in my tank yet, but I have read on multiple forums that the ingredients in the Fusion spray become inert after the cure for 48 hours. I've seen fish keepers use this spray in their aquarium on separators before too. I'm letting mine cure for longer than that just to be on the same side.

I also did two coats on everything!

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-253256-10-Ounce-Translucent/dp/B0070S7ZXA theres the link to it on amazon.

looked into this and buying replacements is stupid expensive. if you want the OEM molding look, you have to remove it, paint it and put it back on with double sided tape. this is the trim paint to use, even has an XJ on the can.

Rust-Oleum Automotive 251574 11-Ounce Trim and Bumper Spray, Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H5P5C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mhSPzb1NAMDJG

This is on my to-do list as well, I personally like the look of the 97+ molding when it's not faded grey. it's also saved my door panels from parking lot monsters who don't look before they open their door.

1. Acquire this.
   
2. Tape some shit
   
3. ???
   
4. Profit

This will help:

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1000-Premium-Metallic-Spray/dp/B000BZX3H6

I used this paint pack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ROI59I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.aEWCbCDEW3EA

Cut up one of these for pattern: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K63U8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7bEWCbEAD11GB

I said it before but I’d practice on mags first to get the pattern down, I did I pretty shit job on the first gun I painted cause I didn’t practice it.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-260771-11-Ounce-Degrees/dp/B006ZLQ0JI/ref=pd_sim_263_4/135-8501305-4659463?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006ZLQ0JI&pd_rd_r=28ef0185-63c5-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_w=XYxwZ&pd_rd_wg=jVOlQ&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=W988KFWPM2M5WCE4J3PE&psc=1&refRID=W988KFWPM2M5WCE4J3PE

I would spray it with cheap bedliner

Actually, Frosting Spray works just fine. Making a paper mask and sandblasting is another option.

Honestly, you already know what you could have done that you didn't. That said, they're pretty good for a first timer. If you're going to paint Reaper minis, priming them is key. I have used the Master Series paints that are designed tip work with the Bones line, and even though Reaper says you don't need to prime, you do. I use their black paint on primer, and I have good results. I wish I had a decent camera to take pics of my work.

Enjoy the hobby, and nothing else. Your free time and money just found a new place to go...

**oh! Nearly forgot. If you decide to go the route of spray on primer, I've used with great results, Krylon primer. Buy it local, it's cheap.

This would be the one!

I got back into painting after about a 25 year hiatus, and got the following:

this primer,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWORRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this paint kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DWMTNDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this wash:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0189BIERC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really happy with all these products.

I used this Rust-Oleum Clear Coat . I know it's cheap but this paint has been drying a long time.

Cheap and easy waterproofing.

Yeah, I couldn't be much happier with how it turned out. Watch the spray tip on the Montana paint, mine gummed up a bit and caused a little blob on the right controller (which was my first/test one).

Primer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6LLZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Base:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JZINNC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seal:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VKY3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZLQ0JI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I do ABS (which I doubt...PETG is fine for what I do) I will vent the fan through the wall into the garage as well as sealing up the cut outs. The fan sucks out the back. For the paint I went with spray cans...2 of this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B73WCO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and three of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ6LYFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It is more of a satin finish than semi gloss which I prefer and I lightly sanded between coats. Thanks for the compliment and happy printing!

Here is a link to the original submission


http://www.reddit.com/r/GunPorn/comments/2dibda/noveske_spr_and_colt_6020_carbine_builds_xpost/


Here is a comment by the original submitter

• Right Side
  
• Left Side
  
• SPR Targets
  
• Album (all 3 pictures)
  
  
   
  
  Noveske
  
  Lower
  
  
• Noveske Gen 3 Billet Lower
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Rock River A2 Stock, painted with Aervoe 8343 Coyote Brown
  
• Magpul MOE + FDE Grip
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Battle Arms Ambidextrous Safety Selector
  
• Seekins Precision Magazine Release Button
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T0 Buffer Spacer
  
• Harris S-BRM 6-9" Bipod
  
• American Defense AD-BP Bipod Mount
  
  Upper
  
  
• Rainier Arms 18" UltraMatch Shilen Barrel, 1:8 twist, ratchet rifling, with mid-length gas system
  
• Rainier Arms Low Profile 'Match Grade' Gas Block
  
• Rainier Arms UltraMatch Billet A4 Upper Receiver
  
• Geissele 15" SMR MKII Rail
  
• Rainier Arms Nickle Boron Finish Bolt Carrier Group
  
• Rainier Arms Raptor Ambidextrous Billet Charging Handle
  
• Lantac Dragon Muzzle Brake
  
• Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP MOA-MOA Scope
  
• Vortex SV-2 Switchview Throw Lever
  
• Vortex Bubble Level Anti-Cant Device
  
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps, size 18, and size 43
  
• American Defense AD-RECON-30 Quick Release Scope Mount
  
• Knight's Armament Micro Flip-Up Rear Sight 200-600m
  
• Troy HK Style Flip-Up Front Sight
  
  
   
  
  
  Colt
  
  
• Colt 6920 M4 Carbine (started as a stock Magpul edition)
  
• Geissele SSA-E Trigger
  
• Battlecomp 2.0 Compensator
  
• Eotech XPS 2-2
  
• Primary Arms 3X Long Eye Relief Magnifier Gen III
  
• Primary Arms Quick Detachable Flip To Side Magnifier Mount (Standard Height)
  
• Troy Industries MRF-C FDE BattleRail
  
• Magpul MOE FDE Grip
  
• Magpul CR123X2 Grip Core
  
• Magpul CTR FDE Stock
  
• Magpul Enhanced Rubber Buttpad
  
• Magpul AFG2 Grip
  
• Magpul MOE Trigger Guard
  
• Magpul PMAG 20 FDE Magazine (discontinued)
  
• Magpul Ranger Plate
  
• Magpul B.A.D. Lever
  
• Troy Rear Folding BattleSight
  
• JP JPS-OSC Centerless Buffer Spring
  
• Spikes Tactical ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
  
• Streamlight TLR1S Weapon Light
  
• Badger Tactical Charging Handle Latch
  
• Noveske QD end plate
  
  xpost from /r/ar15

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

Some sort of metallic spray paint might do it. You can't re-shine it, it's just a thin fake finish.

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-1000-Premium-Metallic-Spray/dp/B000BZX3H6/ref=pd_sim_hi_4