That is underextrusion.

you need to do one (or more) of the following:


the hot end hotter. ^1
to print slower. ^1
more tension in the feeder assembly. ^2
to sort out a clog (either full or partial.) ^3
calibrate the E steps and flow rate. ^4




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

^1
Not all filaments are made equal, I've had rolls of PLA that print fine fast at 210, then others that will gum up the hot end at speed. The printer takes time getting up to speed so some filaments look fine when printing slow or small models. Long paths show this failure I've had filament refuse to print cleanly unless the hot end is set somewhere on the upper side of 225-235 - going to extremes with temp should only be considered after ruling out a clog e.g. a/b the misbehaving filament with another brand and have the other brand work fine at the lower temps/same speed.

^2

Check that the the screw that holds the extruder arm in place has not been over tightened. (if the extruder arm is hard to move or squeaks when you do move it, it's too tight.) https://i.imgur.com/QcUzo5D.jpg
Take a permanent marker and add some ticks onto the tensioner pulley so you can easily see it as it goes around https://i.imgur.com/RplZsN5.png (keep an eye out for small movements where there is not as much inertia acting on it, if you are not getting movements on those there is an issue.) There are spacers you can print to sort this out https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3464217 (shim the spring with anything you can stuff in there, some folded paper or a thin bit of a failed print will work as a stopgap so you can get the spacers printed)

(this can also be fixed by getting a metal extruder)

^3
(make sure to replace the stock bowden couplers they are crap allow the tube to back out and will cause no end of clogs, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/)
Follow this video on how to replace the nozzle paying close attention to the temperature everything is done at and the procedure to make sure the tube is snug with the nozzle. (too loose and you get goo, too tight and you'll squish the bowden tube and get clogs) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk
If you need to clean your nozzle (a big bag of 0.4 nozzles is a worthwhile investment and you can find them cheap on amazon) hold the nozzle in pliers and cooking off everything over a gas burner, use cocktail sticks to remove the majority of the gunk, get the rest out with the acupuncture needle the printer came with. - Needless to say this is all very hot and the plastic can catch fire and drip, so do it somewhere or over something non flammable and easy to clean, I do it over a ceramic stove top with gas burners.


^4

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

I'd make an addendum to the above instructions, ideally E-steps should be calibrated without filament running to the hot end, and the altered steps would look something like:

hot end at temp
remove filament completely
undo the bowden coupler
insert filament slightly into feeder,
cut filament flush at the hole the bowden coupler was in
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps,
cut filament flush
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps, save settings.

This way completely removes any sort of partial clog, variance in filament diameter size or issues downstream from the feeder assembly.

Yep, get a silicone sock.

Do you mean the little blue clips? They've been coming with those for a number of months, but yeah, do yourself a favor and just get some better quality pieces to begin with. This is what I'm using, as an example.

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Now may be a good time to upgrade to a metal lever.


Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CQGhybY4DRJY8

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.
   
   

• Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.
  
  
  

2. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration
   
   
3. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.
   
   
4. Must have recommendation
   
   

• OMG get these e3d silicone socks!. I've had dozen's of successful prints and these socks have helped so much from preventing THIS
  
  
• If you plan to use exotic filament (eg: wood, metal, carbon fiber), GET A HARDENED STEEL nozzle. The stock BRASS nozzle (0.4mm) is only good on non-abrasive filament (eg: regular PLA+ABS)
  
  
• 3D Print Removal Tool Spatula
  
  
• Restock on PEI Sheets!. These are what are recommended by the community as per cost effective and reliability and i think shipping is ~$9? So get more than one for the future. The ones on amazon are !@#$ overpriced!
  
  
  
  
• (optional, didnt like the power cord being bent) Left Angle Power Extension Cord.
  
  edit: I found this on thingiverse to make the PSU cable left angled
  
  

5. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.
   
   AVOID SKETCHUP!!.
   
   
6. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.

You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.

These are the ones I bought.

3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK

I'm assuming that you are not using a silicone sock. If you are not, stop trying to print in PETG until you install one. It's just not worth the headache until you have the right setup.

Get this version of the sock, not this version. The sock prevents the material from blobbing around the nozzle. Blobs around the nozzle inevitably cause problems. The material hardens and then chars, and then is likely to collide with layers below. Or the blob will peel up one of the first layers, so that your print is ruined before it even starts.

Using the sock also helps stabilize the hotend temperature when using the fan, and so may solve the problem you are having using the default fan speed. You should do a PID tuning of the extruder heater after installing a silicone sock.

There's a couple of tricks I use to get a PETG print started: For the skirt (not brim), I use Slicer to change the skirt in three ways: First, I make the skirt only 1 layer high. Second, I make the skirt 3 or 4 perimeters wide. Finally, I keep the skirt at least 20 mm away from the print itself. Making the skirt wider on the first layer gets the nozzle into a steady-state where it tends not to blob as much. I make the skirt only 1 layer high because if there is a blob on the first layer, it can catch on the nozzle when the second layer is printing and get pulled up, ruining the print. Finally, I print it far away from the print itself because if the skirts lifts or strings, there's still a chance that the print itself will be OK. This has improved my success rate with PETG a lot, to the point where I almost never have a failed print.

There's one more thing you can do if you print with PETG a lot. I stole this from another Redditor and don't remember who. It's a change to the Slicer gcode that keeps the hot end at 160 C until after the bed leveling, and then heats up the nozzle just prior to the purge. That greatly reduces blobbing as well. But for it to work well you should still use a sock.

Here's the start gcode I use with PrusaSlicer:

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M109 S160 ; Set extruder temp before bed level
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level
G80 ; mesh bed leveling
M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 E8 ; Purge Bubble

I'm at 2,000 meters of filament printed with my Maker Select, very happy with it, some tips:

-The Maker Select V2.1 is simply a re-brand and upgrade of the Wanhao Duplicator i3. You'll see that name "i3" thrown around more than Maker select, so just be aware they are nearly synonymous


-First, definitely get the blower fan upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy two of them to have an extra in case of death


-Print out a blower fan housing for that fan: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471


The fan upgrade provides a huge improvement in print quality


-Get the all metal hot end from micro swiss: https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC


-THe "Z-Brace" mod reduces vibrations from the machines movements: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948


Some people swear by it, but the print time for those parts is roughly 20-24 hours total. In my 2,000+ meters of print, I haven't bothered because of the print time, but still bought the extra pieces in case I decide to do it.


-I've been mass printing tiles for d&d too, I looked at openforge and decided against that line, but went with TrueTiles instead. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUecWG1W-ss


Highly recommend truetiles over the other tile lines out there - the creator is a crafting genius (look him up on youtube - "wyloch"). They take less plastic, are more versatile, faster print time.


I found that Cura 15.04.x was much better than the recommended Cura 2.5.x. My setting for churning out tiles is something like 210C nozzle, 70 mm/s, 55C bed, 0.25 resolution, 0.8 shell, 10% fill, 2mm retraction, 20mm/s retract speed, 60mm/s travel speed, no brim/raft, no supports. You should print at resolution multiples of 0.04 (because of the way the filament feed gear works), ie. 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, etc. I'm going to switch to 0.24 resolution for tiles. I do 0.12 for small figures. The printer can reliably print resolution 0.08 right out of the box (lower the speed to ~35 mm/s) but takes a long time to print.

-The black material on the heated bed is call Buildtak - be careful not to puncture it with the supplied putty knife. Get some blunt tools such as https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-you don't need any tape, glue stick, hair spray, for buildtak

-Be sure not to use any acetone or alcohol on Buildtak - both will ruin it.

-Apparently you don't really even need to heat the bed with buildtak, the stuff is super effect with first layer adhesion running at room temp. I ruined my original buildtak by using the supplied putty knife to remove a print that was so super stuck to the bed because I kept it heated. Doesn't hurt to keep it heated though, but be aware heat + buildtak = much adhesion

-That slight lip on the butterfly's bottom layer is due to the settings of first layers being laid down slightly thicker than the others. Sometimes called "elephant's foot" it can also be caused by the nozzle being too close to the bed, which will smush those initial layers more than needed. Closer nozzle = more smushed first layer = better adhesion, but with buildtak you can get away with keeping the nozzle further away, and adjusting your cura settings for a first layer thickness equal to the rest of the print

There wasn't too many that affect the quality of the print, but here's the mods I currently have:
___

BL Touch

Borosilicate Glass

Extruder Filament Guide (for TPU)

TPU Feet

Fan Cover

Replace the part. Then print a filament guide off thingiverse for your model printer.
Official Creality 3D All Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J44QW8B
I've seen some people that have printed a replacement, but the metal one will last longer.

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

I got really tired of those all plastic ones and picked up these off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are spring loaded too, so no need for clips or anything to keep the bowden nice and tight in there.

• MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3
  
• Belt: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK
  
• Pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0 (ships as bag of two which is exactly what is needed)
  
• Igus DryLin bushings: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS (is a pack of 7 as needed for the A8)
  
• PSU (just as an example): https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
  
  All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

Amazon.

I'd recommend the RAMPS 1.4 board as there is already a guide to installing it on the Mini and a BLTouch mechanical probe sensor that is also on Amazon.

Also note you need someway to mount your probe the hot end so since no one has done it yet with Mini (publicly anyways), you'd probably have to design your own mount and print it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0111ZSS2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017NEGTXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol. I get it from amazon.
  
  
• And definitely checkout this guide on getting your bed level. It will save a lot of headaches.
  https://github.com/PrusaOwners/prusaowners/wiki/Bed_Leveling_without_Wave_Springs
  
  
• Nozzle socks are good, can make life easier after a catastrophe.
  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK-x/dp/B07779TP4S
  
  
• As for filament, Hatchbox , eSUN, and Amazon brands have been working great for me.

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

So far, comments have focused on the glass bed. FWIW, your bed seems similar to mine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ

I've had at least 1000 successful prints on the "dimpled" side of this bed and have never used any kind of adhesion aid. I clean it with a quick wipe of alcohol (for one or two seconds) between prints and it's good to go again.

My guess is that you still haven't managed to level your bed properly. Can you upload a pic of one of your attempts at a first layer? That would help a lot.

If I am understanding correctly, the prints stick everywhere else except the middle. This could be from the heated bed not being completely flat, from either a manufacturer defect, heating the bed can cause it to flex slightly, and also the act of leveling with 4 points will cause stress to the bed and cause it to not be flat.

If you want to resolve the issue there are a few thing you can do. First I recommend getting a glass bed of some kind. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2/146-3360479-3249561?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07JKGNB6W&pd_rd_r=1be203f4-8159-11e9-8887-9b31b6cb4217&pd_rd_w=QkaU5&pd_rd_wg=lhVMV&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61&psc=1&refRID=MJKHHJRB1R0V6D2Q2C61

with this PEI sheet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Second you can do a bed conversion from 4 corners to 3-point leveling. Check this guide by Makeitmakeitmakeit for more info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3415460

you will need this, made by rrwrex, if you do the conversion: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3193722

​

This is a make of my conversion which I have done on 2 Ender 3s and no longer have to level unless I mess with the bed: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:636770

​

Also check this guide out here tons of good info: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574369

Yes my friend

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 235mm x 235mm (9.3" x 9.3") with Preapplied Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive for Creality Ender 3 or CR 20 | Made in The USA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gbsPDbPNKDNM9

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T-sPDbX4FQ8EG

Build plate is tearing up a little when you remove the print.

I suggest purchasing a glass replacement to go over the top of your build plate. Note: You'll have to calibrate your Z-axis a little unless if you get super lucky and the glass plate is exactly the same thickness as your current plate. Amazon has one for $20

i have an ender 3 pro and after saying no to any upgrades I finally started to see what everyone is talking about 6 months down the road. here is a list of things that you will see a lot of you tubers tell you to replace. the YouTube channel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors is a great resource for everything about the ender 3.

1. new boden tube and couplings that are alot better to use then stock https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. THIS IS A MUST HAVE! a new metal extruder (eliminates a crap ton of extrusion issues) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JZ374W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Glass bed (best bed adhesion with 0 cleanup) this is optional but does solve a ton of issues down the road https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. extra nozzles in a variety of sizes (not needed but nice to play with different sizes and to clear any clogs fast you can just replace the nozzle....i run .2, .4, and .8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JPZ7TNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   the YouTube Chanel Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a step by step build guide for your ender 3 ( i used it for mine) he will recommend most of this list as well. He also has other videos on the slicer settings you will use for Cura. for D&D models you can use this google doc list https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PemvBH7LC-hm4KoeA8OXVu5_k963Vpmw7kOEA_1tzWs/edit?pli=1#gid=0

You have some underextrusion. The lines you're seeing are caused by too much tension on the extruder gear. It cannot get enough material to the hotend.

Mine was the idler arm breaking under the pressure. Buy the metal one from Amazon or wherever. Then print the filament roller guide. And lastly, print a better holder/roller for your spool.

What you absolutely MUSTTTTTTT!!!! order? Nothing. The printer works as is. But if you want to do yourself a favour, here's a list of what I consider essentials:


- New springs, both bed and extruder. I don't have a link for an extruder one as I upgraded my entire extruder drive frame and that came with a better spring

- A new removable bed. Creality glass bed or glass with a PEI sheet is my bed of choice

- Thermal pad to avoid the annoying bed clamps. Cut squares out of it, lay them in a checkered pattern alternating between thermal pad and nothing and place your bed on top. They will hold the bed in place and help with heating

- Stepper dampers if your printer is anywhere near where you spend your time, it sounds like a bloody jackhammer right out of the box

- New tube fittings, the stock ones are terrible and will give out in a matter of weeks at best. They also barely hold onto the tube

There are a ton of other great upgrades, but I think a good idea is to get a feel for it yourself.

What you can do, however, is check out some printable upgrades. I have this thread where people contributed with their choice of printable upgrades. It's a great list you can refer to later. Essentials on that are the fan guard and LCD back cover simply because the Ender 3 as is has the fan and back of the LCD exposed and that makes it crazy vulnerable to dust and gook damage

Hot end

extruder

controll board

stepper drivers

stepper motors

I used the repetier firmware configuration tool to get my firmware image.

If you choose to use a stepper, I would recommend the Nema 17. This is great for smaller-scale projects like a small 3-D printer, fair amount of torque but low speeds. If you main concern is controlling these motors to a precise angle but you aren't too concerned with high speed, this would be a good choice. All the specs are given in that link. A servo is better used in an application where you just want it to be either ON or OFF. If this is a mobile robot, like a little car or crawler, I would go with the servo, here is my recommended product, cheap and strong. Keep in mind that you will also need a driver to run either of these motors. Search Arduino motor sheild/hat/driver for that.

Here's an aluminum version of the part that will work I took this info from the Wiki. You'll need to either take the bearing from your old extruder, or buy a 4x10x4mm bearing to use the original gear and not have to re-calibrate your extruder settings.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

Thanks so much for the detailed reply!

Getting a hold of an aluminum carriage would fix my most major concern with the overall design. I've already found, collected and downloaded all the brackets, replacement motor mounts, belt tensioners, fan ducts, and redesigned x carriage. Once I get the chance to pull the trigger on it, I'd get to work with my MP Mini printing all of those while it's shipping.

You bring up a good point with the MOSFET. I've read a bunch about it with the Maker Select and Wanhou and Anet and whatnot, but I've read that (with the standard bed anyway) the Tevo is pretty good. But with the expanded bed presumably drawing a fair bit more power, a $10 MOSFET might still be a good idea.

And thanks for the insights on the other upgrades. You more or less confirmed what I was already thinking. The standard extruder looks like an all-metal version of what's on my MP Mini and that's doing me just fine. And I've gotten pretty good at manual leveling and have no problem with it so long as it's stable and isn't going to unlevel itself after every print.

One last question though: making the blind assumption that you're in the US, where did you order your Tevo from?

As for the bowden tube coming loose, I had that problem with the V6 clone on my Mini. Just buying a new PTFE tube with some new fittings did the trick. It seems like after a while, the fittings just lose their bite on the tube.

This stuff? Pretty sure it will mess with your temperatures without, not sure how much, and you may be able to tune your PID to compensate.

You can try insulating your heater block. There's cotton insulation that you then wrap with kapton tape. Which is how my maker select came. Or you can get silicone socks, which will depend on your hotend. These come with new e3dv6s and work well too

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

This is where I ordered them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ

But they seem to be sold by so many other names that you could order anything on Amazon that shares that product image, if you find it cheaper.

PEI, Polyethylenimine, is a type of plastic and you can buy it in various forms (including sheets). It's handy because it's nice and sticky to plastics like PLA when it's heated but releases well when it's at room temperature (a few taps along the edge of the base of the print releases most things). The only issue I've had with it is that TPU sticks a bit too well, but TPU's really best printed on a pure glass bed anyways.

I've got a sheet of PEI adhered to a glass sheet and clipped to my print bed. It works great.

Raft, Skirt, Brim.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4y8TCj2RuM

​

And this or Glass gives a shiny, reflective bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I recommend a PEI sheet on top of the glass. I get really nice first layers using it. This is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XJLWL6

Sure. I heard of them through a redditor as well. This should be the ones I buy, maybe a different posting. I’m only on my second cause of a blob at that(still cheaper than the replacement hotend, but it comes with 3 sleeves so, it’s cheaper with the sleeve.) you might find them as socks is what might be the confusion https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

One of the biggest upgrades I have to recommend is flashing new firmware. The default firmware doesn't support thermal runaway protection and it's fairly straightforward to upgrade. Here's a video guide for the process.

Second is to upgrade the thermistor. It's not necessary, but the one I have can survive up to temperatures as high as 600C and is easy to remove during cleaning.

The third upgrade is the most tedious and not necessary, but it's what I did after my first heated bed connectors melted to the Melzi board. I upgraded all of the wiring with 12+14 gauge copper wire. It might be an over kill, but it keeps me sane.

Yellow springs are stiffer replacements for the bed levelling springs that are stock. They should help keep the bed level meaning you don't need to adjust it as regularly.

The stock Bowden couplers have a habit of coming disconnected, though I believe in newer machines a clip has been included to alleviate this. It's good to have spares anyway.

A glass bed gives you a nice flat print surface and I don't know what I did before I got mine. Many stock beds are warped making this a necessity.

Comgrow Heat Bed Glass Plate 235... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DSC9TJQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SIQUK 2 Pieces PTFE Teflon Tube... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can't find the link for the springs at the moment, will update when I find them.

Did you just order the E3D HotEnd Full Kit as seen here on amazon or did you order other stuff too?

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Kit/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487899807&sr=8-1&keywords=e3d+v6

I'm sure that others will jump in here too, but my research has shown the MicroSwiss ALL METAL hotend tends to have many more problems than the E3D all metal hotend.


The MicroSwiss has the advantage of being a plug & play direct drop in, while the E3D you have to print a mounting plate.


That said, the E3D is a superior design (IMHO) with tens of thousands in use on many different 3D printer brands.


The MicroSwiss all metal seems to have problems with clogging, and some users have actually gone back to the stock hotend.


The E3D also allows upgrading to the Volcano version which many think is the cat's meow for the CR-10 machines because of their big build area.


The Volcano uses a 40 watt heater and a long nozzle to give a longer heat up time for hotter filaments being extruded at high speed (the plastic is in the melt zone longer, gets more time to melt).


The Volcano also opens the door to much bigger nozzles like .8; 1.0; and even a 1.2 which allows extruding much more plastic cutting big print times dramatically and also gives much greater parts strength.


I plan on getting an E3D GENUINE hotend. I have an E3D clone on my Monoprice Select v2.1 and it was a LOT of trouble to get it running right, sometimes it pays to not cheap out! LOL!


Here's the E3D page, as well as two sources:


E3D Home: https://e3d-online.com/v6


Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO


Filastruder: https://www.filastruder.com/products/all-metal-e3d-v6-hotend

One nice thing on Filastruder is that you can customize the kit you buy .

Now I prepare myself for the slings and arrows from happy MicroSwiss people. :-)

PuterPro

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

hot end v6

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

The motor is a Nema 17 with 63.7 oz-in of hold torque.
The drive controller doesn't seem like it has the ability to do micro stepping which I didn't see as a problem because the resolution of it is more then i really need already.
Links to both that i got from amazon below.

The application is raising a skylight, which involves the motor turning a hook which grabs the loop to open the skylight.

As far as I can tell it doesn't have to do with resonance but whenever its not actually moving a step its losing all current. This could be my problem as the drive started to over heat when it was not moving. So at the end of the move I disable the driver because the window doesn't need to be held open.

Motor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KMHSW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you're quite welcome!
The motors I bought were these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W but any nema17 sized steppers that have at least 64OzIn(45Ncm) of torque will do.
the advantages of the 32bit controllers are pretty numerous, but here's the pros and cons as I see them.

Pros: faster movement- they can generate movement commands much faster than the 8 bit ones. More powerful -they can calculate the geometries easier, leaving capacity available for other things. on the smoothieboard, for example, it can be hooked up to your home internet, and serve a local webpage, thus running stand-alone. Additionally the 32bit controllers don't need to be flashed with new firmware to change settings. they have a config file on the sd card that you can update, or for the more common settings, via several g-code commands. The 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so the information available isn't splintered or contradictory, like it can be for the 8 bit controllers. the guys on smoothieboard's IRC channel are very helpful, although a bit terse.

Cons: Some of the features of the 8 bit processor's firmwares that I like are not implemented, firmware that prevents you from accidentally telling your printer to move in a fashion that it can't (out of bounds movement) and an over-temperature cut-out (marlin firmware will cut every thing if the hot end is measured to exceed a certain temperature. the 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so there aren't as many sources of info or help available, however see the pro about info

the build volume if you use the arm length recommended is something like 120mm diameter by 260mm tall. I suggest, if you get their kossel, to make your carbon-fiber tubes 250mm long instead of the suggested 180mm. this gives you total arm lengths of about 290, which results in a build volume of about 210mm by 200mm.

The anycubic one looks like the way to go since this is only temporary. The pressure is still on the plastic so it'll eventually break. Can you point me to the instructions you used to replace it? Thanks

Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yI-vyb8AGEEGK

You should also get these: uxcell® 5 Pcs Silver Tone 10mm x 4mm x 4mm Sealed Premium Flanged Ball Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9W20VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lJ-vybPV8A1NM

You need the bearings instead of the one in the above kit if you keep the original drive gear on the machine. The new kit has a new feed gear, but it will change how much is fed, requiring you to recalibrate your printer.

I have several upgrades in the queue for this weekend once my M3 hardware kit comes in:

• The 40mm fan for the controller board: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867169
  
• The Z-Axis rod stabilizers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1775502
  
• The zero-offset mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848402
  
  (Note the above designs are all three by USWaterRockets, who seems to have exceptional engineering skills, but I haven't installed them yet. Hopefully, this weekend and I'll post results)
  
  Another one I'm considering next:
  
  
• Belt tensioners: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1697171
  
  Here is the E3D-v6 adapter I currently have on the printer:
  
• https://hackaday.io/project/12184-monoprice-mp-select-mini-e3d-hotend-adapter
  
  Note the above design is just a quick-and-dirty solution; the author even states this. It works and will get you what you need to get things going with the new head.
  
  Other upgrades I've done:
  
  
• Upgrade the firmware and set the PID values correctly to control temperature better: https://hackaday.io/project/12696/instructions
  
• Replacement filament feeder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0196B285I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• PEI print surface (two parts):
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Cork insulation under print bed (I attached it using the adhesive from the above order): http://www.michaels.com/artminds-cork-roll/M10171279.html?dwvar_M10171279_color=Natural#q=cork&start=6
  
  Here's the E3D-v6 printhead I bought and it's worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4V2QEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  Disclaimer: I'm new to 3D printing. This is my first printer and the learning curve is steep. I may look back on this posting in a year and think "what an idiot I was doing <this>". Take my advice with a grain of salt, as I'm muddling through this whole thing. YMMV

• Heat gun for melting off any stringing post print
  
• Small spatulas for those hard to remove prints
  
• These sanding tools on Thingiverse for sanding rough surfaces and cleaning up support contact areas

Also, if you're using a standard putty knife on the bed: dont. Them edges be too sharp for the PEI to handle. I use something like this which saved my PEI from certain death a few times.

Seconding ChituBox, it's a lot better at supports and just overall usability.

Also, I've had zero issue removing prints from the plate by using a thin metal scraper. The one I've been using is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK

The shorter one is perfect for getting under prints with a little bit of force.

Thank you for the information, that was very helpful. My Maker Select V2 just arrived yesterday so I was just relaying what I have read thus far (basically about 4 days of reading about them non stop).

The other method I was referring to in my original post is this one which is using a MOSFET board. http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/di3-advanced-mods/heatbed-terminal-burning-fix-with-mosfet-board/ What do you think the "best" fix would be out of the 3 available? (Replace connectors, rewire heat bed to PSU, install MOSFET board)

The highest rated MOSFET board on Amazon is unfortunately unavailable right now, otherwise I would already have that on the way. Same as the OP, I would like to fix this early on before it does become a problem but with no prior soldering experience and being anal, I would like to avoid the method which requires it.

"v2.1" is a label that means nothing anymore, since there have been four revisions of v2.1 and the most current model is still called v2.1

Wanhao has never done a "mosfet change" in the board, they upgraded under-rated connectors to properly handle the amount of power needed to pass through them; they didn't add anything.

If you want to be sure, open the box and look at things for yourself.

Edit: Apparently Wanhao did update a mosfet. But I haven't seen any reports of someone who had something like this in their printer. It's likely the updated mosfet is visually identical to what they replaced.

There are a couple ones I've seen in tutorials: I used this, but seen some youtubers use this.

Would it be worth the extra $10 to get this board instead?

TriGorilla Mosfet Board?

Did you replace the crappy OEM coupling that holds the Bowden tube flush to the nozzle on the hot end? The OEM coupling lets the tube slip which creates a gap where your filament can clog up. I think this is the replacement.

These are what I’m using on my Pro.

Sorry, I have buckets of them so I didn't think to mention. Standard BSP PC4-M10, same as the Voron belted extruders (so you can just re-use those if you have them).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG

I will post those pictures soon. I am traveling out of town right now. These are the PTFE fittings I used.

You can print without it. It's not too expensive to replace and it helps keep the temperature stable and use less power(leaving more for the bed heater). You'll probably want some polyimide/kapton tape too.

Right now I'm just using some Kapton tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KB6AAY?psc=1

Later I'll add a silicone sock if I can find one, or maybe just some ceramic cotton:
https://www.amazon.com/WAHHING-heating-cotton-printer-insulation/dp/B01LAYCRAA

10 Pack for $7.00

You took apart the hot end. I am assuming to remove to the nozzle for cleaning? There are two threaded holes in that picture. The larger one for the nozzle, and the smaller one has an L shaped bracket used to hold the thermistor in place. The thermistor goes into the unthreaded hole NEXT to the threaded hole. The thermistor wires look bent in that photo because the L shaped bracket squashes them.

Here's two links you will need to replace the insulation material.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVBLOQ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

reinstall the nozzle, tightly but not too tight. re-install the thermistor and L bracket. Then wrap everything with the insulation and use the 1/4" kapton tape to hold in insulation in place.

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

I believe these are what you are looking for?

Igus 8 linear bearings. They were the suggested replacement when I got my A8 many moons ago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_S8joDbFR7WG1C

I think that the bearing failure might be cause by over-tightening the u-bracket holding it one. I also had this failure and I ended up replacing the bearings with solid polymer ones that seem to work pretty well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS

I've had zero issues with mine, and do not use ANY lubrication... I over tightened my bearings which caused a lot of noise, so when I went to replace them with the drylins, I also completely cleaned the rods they went onto, so that may be why I am not having issues. Been running them for about two months now. These are the ones I ordered, if it matters

for ABS i like to enclosure the Printer, so i can keep the heat in. Also i suggest: Do upgrade to Mosfet Modules if you printing ABS a lot, it will prevent the board of casing fire. The connecters to the board are known to start fires. If you want a quick solution, but some brass sleeves over the wires.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kNMAAOSwhfdaavKJ/s-l300.jpg

Never ever try to solder them together, solder joints weakens the thing and after some movement it brake loose, casing desaster. Also put some strainreliefs on both ends of the cable. Don't try to drill holes in the acrylic, as it most likley shatters the frame, instead i always glued stuff to it.

​

https://www.3ders.org/articles/20150726-new-ikea-hack-lets-you-create-a-3d-printer-enclosure-for-cheap.html

It's a cheap IKEA tabel to put over. I wanted to stack two of them, but the problem was the mass of the construction (or the lack of it), as it wobbels a lot i would only advice to cover it on top of a tabel...

​

​

here are the files you asked for:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NjCn8OF8ddrGB06XAqb-PJJHnOPvXwVJ

​

they are a bit crude tho, i did not bother to add a mounts to the chassie, i just glued it on as i mentioned, drilling into it may case cracks. Also the slots for the sd card etc. could be worked out a bit finer and more accurate. but it will hold down with short m3 screws.

​

don't forget to connect all GND (so one screw from each board) to GND of the powersupply. So in case of a short circut the fuse can blow before anything can catch fire. Even more so if you upgrade to MOSFET.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539565222&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet&psc=1

​

Cheers and happy printing

Roger


​

I'll just put them right here. I think these are essential upgrades for the ender 3

[Metal extruder feeder] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWQFT7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gq8SDbCHX88J8)

[TL smoothers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ms8SDbA5EWY3W)

[PTFE tube and fittings] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS3NH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ls8SDb794MJ3Q)

In my experience this problem is caused by electrical noise in the stepper motors, causing slight, regular vibrations that are transferred to the print and manifest as these odd surface waves. I have the same PowerSpec printer, with the same Microswiss all-metal replacement hotend. The only thing I don't have is the Microswiss extruder lever but I don't believe that is a factor in this situation. No matter how well everything was dialed in, my prints suffered from this problem. The only way to minimize (not eliminate) the problem was to print at 10mm/s which was not an acceptable solution for me.

I solved this issue by installing TL smoother boards in-line with the X, Y, and extruder stepper motors. You will definitely see many opinions on smoother boards here and elsewhere, ranging from "100% fix my issues" to "waste of money, fix the REAL issue", which I think are influenced by different printer models, patience levels, and the many other variables that can affect 3D printing quality. In my case, the TL smoother boards fixed 90% of my issues, the other 10% was fixed by printing and installing the Z-brace mod you see on most of our Wanhao/Monoprice/PowerSpec printers. Coupled with limiting print speeds to 50 mm/s or below, I have had very good results.
Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

I also printed the Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.
Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

Also, I initially tried installing one of the smoother boards on my Z stepper motor, rather than the extruder but this made Z-axis movements erratic and ruined my test prints. After moving the smoother board to the extruder I have had much success. Some people say smoother boards also reduce stepper motor noise but I can't tell the difference.

Amazon listing for the 3-pack of TL smoother boards I purchased ($11 USD):
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep! I bought these ones

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" 1 mm 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kgyXAbNEW8B6H

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 8" x 8" (203mm x 203mm) 1mm Thick 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T2H9Bb7E9V5RS

I have the same printer you do. I bought that, placed it over the black mat that is installed, secured it with metal binder clips, leveled my bed, built an enclosure out of foam board and print with ABS. Wipe it down between prints with alcohol. No adhesion issues at all. Let your print cool 30 minutes and they pop right off.

Also, tighten your bolts around the rods, they are accessed from the bottom of the motors. Mine were loose when shipped. https://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/

The first thing I did when I got mine was replace the stock extruder fan with a radial fan + a diiicooler link

I also printed a z-axis stabilizer

Upgrading the to an all metal hot end is also a solid choice

Getting a pei sheet and a piece of borosilicate glass for your build plate will help too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this isn't an affiliate link or anything, just copy and pasted from the amazon app. I had to cut the sheet down a bit. It scores and breaks pretty nicely. Keep in mind it's about 1mm thick though.

It was 35 on Amazon 40 with the 1 M extension cable.

Here's a link

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

• Bl Touch (Note: if you have a Pi you don't need a separate ISP to flash a bootloader to the stock Melzi control board)
  
  
• Extruder | Zesty Nimble, Bondtech BMG, or SeeMeCNC EZR
  
  
• Cooling Duct | Either Smooth Fang or Hero Me Gen 3 in PETG/ABS
  
  
• Direct Drive | Kit or Printed (this, this, or this)
  
  
• Electronics relocation enclosure and wiring (need to research this more)
  
  
• Vibration Isolation Feet with Yellow Dot Squash Balls
  
  
• Linear rails (maybe)

No, this is the exact one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Genuine E3D V6 Socks Pro (Pack of 3) (V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HkIRBbMK27K4Q

Buy some extruder socks to avoid this problem next time.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S

Nozzle sock

I didn't get one at first and my nozzle/hot end got covered in all kinds of scrap that melted on and then burned on, and I started to get little dark blobs in my prints. Keeping it clean also makes it easier to change the nozzle.

>If it were me I'd probably switch back to my standard filament just to make sure my printer is still working like I'm used to. It's way better to troubleshoot a known-known.

This is actually exactly what I just did! And to my surprise, I had the same problem with the previous filament.
I actually found the issue now! At the same time I put in place the new nozzle, I also put in place one of these E3d silicon socks. And it seems this silicon sock is preventing the print to be properly cooled by my fan shroud!
I just removed it and tried again and now the print looks fine. Now I just have to try again with the glow in the dark filament but my guess is that it's gonna work!

Hello there. This is a rebrand of the Wanhao i3 Plus, so if you need some help, googling information about that printer, or its popular rebrand, the Monoprice Maker Select Plus, may give some answers. I have the MPMS+, so I may be able to help you out. Your old heater block had two holes because it is able to take two different sized thermistor screws. Your new heater block can only take one. It looks like an M3 screw hole maybe? It is hard to tell. But yes, you should be able to put your thermistor cable into the hole with the right screw just fine. As for where to put the heater cartridge plugs in, your daughter board should look like this, right? You would plug it into the one labeled heater. Also, I upgraded my thermistor to a screw based thermistor, which I would recommend. I think it would be compatible with the block you have there if you're interested.

I've done that and it's seated. This is the replacement I put in. [Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fTvLBb3Z93P59

Thanks for the reply. So far I haven't touched the extruder arm screws so the should be ok but I will check them later tonight.

I have watched the gear and it looks pretty good to my untrained eye. It doesn't appear to be slipping and also doesn't look like its digging in too much. I have had the chance to check out the tube when I was cleaning out the nozzle and hot end and it looks free from any particles.

​

I have purchased https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_1NwwCb51ACY2Q and it should be arriving today. So I will try to use https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831 to stop any future issues.

​

I will go through the the procedure shown in the video you link and hopefully, this will help.

​

All of this as well as Kamilon's should hopefully resolve my issues.

i ended up buying this glass bed. Overall its pretty good. Just use purple glue stick you can buy anywhere and youll be fine. albeit for me i need to call in NASA engineers to get mine off as well. :/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3C42WXXA97BWB&keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1569282569&sprefix=ender+3+glas+bed%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I bought

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.

Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.

Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.

Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.

I haven't yet but will get:

• a better extruder (all metal or a bmg clone)
  
• a better hot-end (for printing of other stuff, like nylon if I want)
  
  Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.

This is the one I went with, it's been pretty great so far except the one unfortunate incident with this particular print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was going to go with something like this because I don't mind spending a little bit of money: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KRuDDbGMR3EMH
Would a mirror be better, or is it basically the same idea?

Idk about $180, but you can definitely save a bit of money if you order it from the warehouse in China. It just takes longer to arrive, and I personally feel more comfortable dealing with Amazon, as compared to eBay or Alibaba.

OP, here are a few purchasing option links. Also, I would go with the glass bed option if I were you. The eBay link has the option to choose "Ender 3 + Glass Bed" at what looks like no extra cost. Otherwise, you can buy the glass bed separately for less than $20.

eBay Creality Warehouse store ($205): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender-3-Ender-3-Pro-3D-Printer-220X220X250mm-DC-24V-1-75mm-PLA/223496146513?hash=item3409688e51:m:mCXoexVEaY-yqetXfGJ-tyg

Alibaba Creality Warehouse store ($200): https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Official-Creality-3D-Ender-3-Ender_62047106886.html?spm=a2793.11769229.0.0.49733e5fSDdLkY

Amazon.com ($230): https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ender+3&qid=1571603563&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVko5TVZIMU5VVzRKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTk4NDkzMkxIQ1ZQRDVRSE1NJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMjc0MDlFWEc2V1BKT0ZGWjkmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Ender 3 Glass Bed ($17): https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1571603812&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRjhOSlg2T0ZVRDNLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY4MzE3MkJJV1ozNk5VSENKUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjY0MzIwWUhHWFJSU0U0V1NBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

The build plate on the Ender is made of aluminum and is infamous for warping under heat, or just being slightly bent out of the box. Whereas a glass bed sits on top of the aluminum build plate.

Most people use glass for the smooth surface, but many Ender owners choose one simply because it provides a level printing surface. Often people will even put the print mat that comes stock on top of the glass, giving them the adhesion benefits of the mat, with the level benefits of the glass.

Some will tell you that a mirror or similar piece of hardware store glass will work fine, but it is known to shatter due to the heating and cooling process. For about $20 on Amazon, an actual Creality borosilicate plate is well worth the cost. (on Amazon )

I just ordered one the other day after doing lots of research. This one has great reviews: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RD6D2ZQ?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Just saw your inquiry about the bed: I'm using this one [Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

While you're at it, you might as well go for an upgrade. I just upgraded mine and my boden tube no longer slides, which means my retraction works a hell of a lot better.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fitting-Straight-Pneumatic-Filament/dp/B07DC594D6

This is the only upgrade I would recommend to get right away, everything else should be on a as needed basis.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DC594D6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

+1... This is a WIN

1. Small mistakes make great lessons.
   
2. Still usable to print 75% as wide as the print bed, at least
   
3. Instant excuse to drop $30 on a glass bed. I got this one: Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender3- 4mm thick

I got this one and it is working out great!

So far I have printed PLA and PETG.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Glass Bed

Honestly I would suggest getting the upgraded motors instead of the dampeners. They will be much quieter and give you better performance. For the bed I got this:
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Borosilicate Glass Bed is absolutely worth it. Even when you wait for your bed to cool after printing (you should) you'll struggle removing parts with Ender 3 print surface. With that borosilicate glass, you'll get a perfectly flat surface that will release parts easily after cooling.

The line down the left hand side is now defaulted in the Cura 3.5.x printer profile. You can modify the start and end gcode under Settings > Printer > Manage Printer. The cura folks adapted it from another person who posted it on Youtube and then modified it to improve it a bit. For instance it now starts both bed and the element at the same time.

Finally, Cura 3.5.1, while supposedly fixing the Ender 3 Printer Profile, is still pretty shakey. It doesn't seem to render good gcode. I've switched back to 3.4.1... more of a PSA than resposne to your question.

Hey I also new on this, got my printer a month ago, I was super exited as everyone here when receive their printer, I read a LOT while waiting for the printer, so I heard that the stock bed springs are crappy, so I ordered this ones FYSETC Bed springs, also ordered the Aluminium Extruder feeder, and read about the leveling, the paper sheath method, which I think you should already heard about, I did it at the first time the printer gave me a nearly perfect first print (demo dog) , after a few prints and on my third print I came home just to find a mess on my printer, so I did my research again, find out it was bed adhesion, and find out that the best way was glass bed + PEI sheet was the best option, while waiting to arrive I tried to clean the stock bed sheet with mineral spirits (did have rubbing alcohol) but it worsened the adhesion, so I used one adhesion sticker that comes with the overture filament, and again flawless adhesion, at least for the first 4 prints, then again the frustration, I tried some glue stick and worked but it leaves a mess on your print so I decided to try painters tape directly onto the aluminum bed (which lucky for me it is perfectly flat) this is the best adhesion I have tried, problem is also makes a mess with the down face of the print, Finally mi Gass-PEI arrived, (3 days ago), it has a great adhesion but is not perfect, also you have to raise the Z limit switch to compensate the 5~ mm of Glass-PEI, find out that it isn't perfectly flat it has a good adhesion and leaves a very smooth down face, but at some section it does't sticks well and leaves artifacts on the down face, I'm currently working to fix this.

Sorry for the long post, need to talk about my frustration and let you know you are not alone on this, once you manage to make a good print is very satisfying, I have a PETG filament waiting to be used but I don't think is a great idea to try it until a learn more about 3D printing and the Ender.

This is where i got them from. Just make sure when you cute them that you are careful not to crush the tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I struggled with adhesion for the first couple weeks of printing. Then I swapped my stock bed for a glass + PEI combo. Got the flatness of the glass + the adhesion of the PEI. Once the plate cools down a few degrees, the parts come right off. No need for sticky hairspray to get things to stick, and no need to put the bed in the freezer to get things to unstick. Best upgrade I’ve made on my ender 3 (~$30 total). Always wipe down with isopropyl alcohol in between prints for best adhesion.

Tip: I also recommend gently wet sanding the PEI. Helps with adhesion and creates a very nice matte finish on the first layer.

Glass Bed:
Nearly Natural 4855 35in.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PEI:
Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Improvements/add-ons

• Filament Roller Guide. You will thank yourself later to further prevent the filament from grooving an indentation where it feeds into your extruder. It utilizes bearings but its a fantastic design. I had mine for ~2 months when I started noticing the groove already being made.

• XT60 Connector clips - if you want a little "cable management"

• LCD Cable Clips - Also if you want a little "cable management". There is also an LCD Cover for the PCB to keep dust and whatnot out.

• Any fan covers you find that suit your style as you dont want filament going into the box in the bottom left (not entirely too sure what it holds).

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>
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Physical Upgrades

• Upgrade the bed springs as my originals started to sag a little. Not exactly sure on what the technical name for those springs are but those are the ones I purchased and I have been happy with them.

• Borosilicate glass bed. I use to use the stock mat, tape method, and hairspray method. All of those worked for a little bit but were a complete pain and mess to deal with from time to time. All I do now is use some isopropyl alcohol and clean my glass bed every once in a while but past that I require NO adhesion for my bed outside of tiny pieces that require a brim, skirt or whatever support needed to keep it adhered. As long as your print bed is leveled as best as possible (have a nice filament "squish") you will have no issues.

• Some other things you could look into if you plan to print with other kinds of filament outside of PLA would be: Micro Swiss steel nozzle, Capricorn tubing and an upgraded extruder like the e3d. Keep it simple for right now though while you learn your rigs because I strongly feel no ender 3 works the same and my preference for which program (MatterHacker, Slic3r or Cura) depends on how I feel how the model appears and how its coming out. Also, grab yourself a handful of replacement nozzles if you continue to use the brass ones. They CAN wear out if you use the printer like crazy, so its always good to have spares (also can get a variety of sizes too - standard being the 0.1mm I believe?). I snagged a pack of 10 for $5-8.

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>
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Last but not least, run a few bed level test prints as well. The best one that I have found which helps me dial in my printing was CHEPs bed level STL file. Video & G-Code file. I use it religiously if I ever find that my bed is out of wack.



There are a handful of other mods/add-ons you can find on Thingiverse and another website (one which we arent allowed to link to unfortunately).

I got this comes with a lot of tube, probably a few feet and a lot of extra couplers, I've had it up to 260 since and haven't had an issue

I changed to a PTFE tube that came with some coupling that e bought, because i didnt like the original couplings. The diference i noticed is that this tube lets the filament flow more freely.

Link to the couplings and tube:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DC594D6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not OP, but here is the one I got a few weeks ago. Works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/

Ah the one I ordered is out of stock, but gulf coast makes a damn good plate as well.
[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer Borosilicate Glass for The Creality Ender-3-4mm Thick. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_muJCCb5WVFHTJ

Here you go.

SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Extruder Cat found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2823786

Yep, just got this glass bed since the stock bed was lower in the middle on mine. Works great, no more leveling issues. I still have the stock springs though, they seems to work for me but I haven't printed much yet to see how long they hold.

Stock Hotend, This Bowden tube and the change I mentioned in my top level comment

https://www.amazon.com/SIQUK-Fittings-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ender+3+couokers&qid=1566384028&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Basically these. The ones that came with my printer couldn’t hold the tubing which made the printer unusable. The yelllow bed springs are similar - the stock ones are flimsy and may require you to cut some plastic on your z end stop to make it work out. To me those are really the only 2 “day one” upgrades just due to them sometimes being necessary for the printer to even function.

Yeah, I got a bunch of tips. Did you join the HackerHappyHour discord? If you did, there's a 3d-printing channel in the Maker section, and I can respond faster there. (I only check reddit every few days usually) Here's the join link if you need it again: https://discord.gg/WNDrtWM

I have used 2 build plate surfaces so far. The build-tak that came with the kit, and a borosilicate glass plate I got from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9

I use Slic3r (and I'm now an official contributor to it!), and I have been posting my Slic3r profiles in this gist when i get then nailed down: https://gist.github.com/LongLiveCHIEF/6363bba1e4799bff9122c03f5e8096e3#file-slic3r_ender3_config_bundle-ini

The Ender3 ini bundle that is there now is for the buildtak plate, and I'm almost done with my glass settings.

I also upgraded the bed springs, bought a BLTouch auto-bed-level, and some automotive feeler guages so I can exactly level and dial in my bed shape to slic3r

The reason I did all that, is the biggest factor for sticking is going to be temperate. If you take bed shape/leveling/distance out of the equation, it's easier to focus on temperature without worrying about other factors messing up your layers.

All in all though, I haven't had a lot of problems getting things to stick. You can see my temp settings in the gist I posted, but I've been finding lately that for Hatchbox, the best temperature seems to be 187 - 192 for the hot end, and about 57 - 63 for the bed. Technically you don't need to heat the bed for PLA, but I haven't tried a cold bed yet so couldn't tell you if that works well or not.

I'm pretty sure I just got an official creality one, but here is an Amazon link. I'm glad you got it figured out!

It's going to happen to you. Possibly even with a filament guide eventually. The plastic extruder is just terrible. Picking up the all metal extruder is one of the best buys you'll make.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFTKCV9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I bought. It made a huge difference.

Tomb of 3d printed horrors has a great assembly video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=me8Qrwh907Q&t=766s

Useful tips also consider getting the aluminum extruder before set-up (its easier to do during the assembly process). https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B

Level your bed! Most of my failed prints have been when my bed becomes unleveled.

I included some helpful youtube channels that helped me problem solve.

Chep - https://www.youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics

Teaching Tech - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw

The genuine one is $14.99 on Amazon. Look for seller Creality3d Online.

Official Creality 3D All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive Aluminum 1.75mm for CR-10 Ender 3 CR-10S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J44QW8B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ViaSCbP7EG11R

Thanks for the detailed reply.

​

I need to read more to understand the z switch and z screws you are referring to. I have no idea what those are. I assembled by watching some channel on youtube do it. It was like a tales from the crypt vibe channel.

​

As much as it sucks, I probably need to completely disassemble it and start over. There has to be something done incorrectly for it to be this difficult. I am definitely going to get one of those gauges before I get back into. I returned the springs today and ordered different springs on amazon. When they get here, I might sit down one night and try again.

​

As for the bed, the glass one I got was scratched to hell from those stupid springs. I didn't know I had to raise or lower whatever switch you were talking about. Like I said earlier, I already ordered a SD card reader so that will be a definite mod. As for the octopi, is there a list somewhere on this subreddit of everything you need to purchase before starting? I have a raspberry pi at the house. I originally bought it to build a retropie but I haven't gotten around to it yet. I could use it for the printer if needed. I really like the idea of remote printing, having a webcam to see the print live, and putting a part on there that stops the print if there is a filament issue.

​

I have to go into the city tomorrow so I was thinking of stopping by ikea and getting some Lack Tables for the eventual enclosure but now I don't know if I am even going to keep the Ender 3. I am debating on returning it and moving up a tier. I really want to get started on this but it seems like I am never going to be able to print any of this awesome stuff. So many awesome files on thingiverse and I can't use any of them.....

​

Here are the parts I have purchased so far....

​

SD Card Extension

​

Glass Bed

​

Springs that I bought that would not lower bed enough

​

Most Recent Springs I am going to try

​

Metal Extruder Upgrade

​

Filament Black and Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3gR-Bb0NTY89V

I bought this extruder feed from Amazon to replace my plastic one.

I checked a YouTube video real quick and then went for it. It seemed like a pretty straightforward install.

That said, now I look at it, the arm seems canted a bit, almost as if the screw with the bearing on it isn't in all the way? It's in as far as it will go.

I had one short countersunk screw (M2 I think) and a lock washer leftover. Couldn't think of where a lock washer would be useful for this assembly, and the stock one didn't have a lock washer anywhere, but if someone knows where it goes, or anything else to ensure this is on correctly, please let me know.

That said, it seems to be extruding just fine, I've done a couple of test prints and nothing seems amiss.

Hey! Welcome. I also just bought my ender 3 pro as my first printer.

​

Here's a great place to start https://all3dp.com/1/20-must-creality-ender-3-upgrades-mods/

​

​

So far I've done the following upgrades:

1: Metal Extruder. 100% necessary and MUCH easier to do during initial assembly rather than an upgrade. I got mine form Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J44QW8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

2. 2020 Filament Guide:

You can find this on Thingiverse and is about a hour long print. It actually made a noticeable different in some salmon skin issues I had in my first couple of prints.

​

3. Springs:

These just arrived today so I'm not sure how much they will help but one of the main causes of my failed prints so far as been issues with leveling and some of the stock springs I can see are just no good.

​

4. TL Smoother:

Another upgrade I havent had a chance to set up yet. That said, my research has come across mixed results. Some people love them and some people Hate them.

​

I'm not sure about glass beds and all, the stock plate has been working pretty well for me. I think I'm going to try it alittle more before moving to a glass bed simply cause its a bit easier to maintain but it could be the next thing on my list. I've also been considering an auto-leveler (and ardunio) since it doesn't have that function and having to relevel, watch, pray, reset has already cost me a couple hours of print time.

​

I'm not familiar with ESUN PLA+, I've been using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J0GMMP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and am very happy with it so far.

​

Best of luck with your printing!!

What are you using to level the bed? Also where are you leveling it to? (above the bed screws are the right spot) I use a piece of receipt paper folded in half to level it.

It may be worth using a bed level gcode to assist with the human error or placement problems)

Also the stock springs may be bad these should help with the frequent bed leveling.

A glass bed may also help with adhesion with these

Here's the extruder I bought

And here's the bowden tubing and connectors

There's a lot of similar items on Amazon that will work; I just personally went after the popular ones with the highest reviews

Also, if you get the tubing, don't forget to get cutters if you don't have any already

I got this one. It has good reviews and the price was right.

I think most on Amazon are probably similar.

Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Bed 235x235x3.7mm for Ender 3 DC-01 Glass Print Bed Borosilicate Glass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDOEDbJSNRTST

This is what I got after a few test prints I'm trying the skull again. It looks way better.

Check this out at Amazon.com
SIQUK 3 Pcs Teflon Tube PTFE Blue Tubing (1.5M) with 3 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings and 3 Pcs PC4-M10 Fitting Connector for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zrPrDb2ZQ4C9H

It's a glass bed, this one specifically:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFTKCV9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zriNDbXHEVSEN

You are correct. The stock Ender 3 does not. But the stock Ender 3 also doesn't come with an all metal hotend or any of the other mods that I've installed.

For example:

E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KiiqDb0BZFYEK

Or:

https://e3d-online.com/thermal-compound-paste

My all metal hotend kit came with something identical in the package. If it's not supposed to be used for the hotend, why would they include it? /Whereabouts were they thinking I was going to apply it?

Try this ones

​

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-3 *original*

​

Cheap version

​

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B07B4FHN72/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2RY68WD3KQDGT&keywords=e3d+v6+hotend&qid=1562208147&s=gateway&sprefix=E3D+%2Caps%2C275&sr=8-7

> E3d
you mean something like this right????

https://www.amazon.com/E3D-All-metal-HotEnd-Full-Approximately/dp/B00NAK9JFO

Wow.. this is easily the longest reply I have ever gotten. I have replied much longer before but yeah.. Not complaining at all thanks for taking the time to write it. I will reply as I read through.

Wiring for me I have never been all that hesitant to. I have been hit with 120 a few times and it's mainly a burn for me. The one that really surprised me though was taking apart a blender and well I had shorts on and you can touch one wire and be fine just not both unless you and the wiring are grounded of course. Anyway I was on my bed and one wire was touching my leg and the other I grabbed with my hand... So that was an interesting experience.

I am the type that will take one of those cigarette lighters that electric spark? take off the guard, put your thumb over it and go... clicky clicky...

As for the JST bit I appreciate the links. I am familiar with them and how to do that I just never have. I would need a reason to get them, maybe this is it? But the wago or other lever type connectors seem to be easier and or cheaper. I will figure it out when it gets here.

> personally I mangled the connector housings and pins on my stepper cables trying to swap pins over.

Yeah I think you need the pin remover. I was watching a few youtube videos about it, and well here I believe is the one I watched. Relevant portion is at the 7:05 mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhU0D7fDR98 It's called an extraction tool, or extractor. There are quite a few different ones for different applications. If I got into solderless pin connections that's one of the things I would buy.

So for me going that kind of connector route would be about 10 or so for the extractor, 20 for the crimper, maybe 10 or so for the connectors. But let's say it was just 30 or so total. Ok... or I could go with the wago lever connectors for 15 and could splice 50 sets of wires that could be undone with a flick of a lever. It's not as nice looking as a connector but it's still doable. Also knowing me, I'd still throw some heat shrink tubing onto the crimped pins. But I already have that and a heat gun.

>Building a cat proof mdf enclosure for the printer so I can take it home within the next month or so is on the cards.

I plan on copying the corner bracing and modifying those. Well I want to replace all the melamine parts eventually but yeah. The idea would be to modify those in a way I could easily attach side and top panels. Likely something like 1/4" plexi glass. I don't like how the socket caps stick out, so I would use countersunk screws to make the screw head flush with the printed brace. Then either on the back side hollow out a section for a neodymium magnet for each corner and do the same for the plexiglass, or maybe thumbscrews? Or possibly just make it so it's like the side of a PC case where it slides in and out The top would likely be semi permanent and attached with screws but the sides would be like just slide the panel up and take it off that way. The front maybe the same way or use hinges or whatever. I don't think I will print any ABS I hear enclosures could help with that. My main reason for doing it is dust. Dust I hear can mess up prints so keeping it enclosed may help with the quality.

For me an MDF enclosure would be really easy to do, I may do that as a frame then attach plexi to the outside and just have a box that goes over it? but that to me seems like cheating and or wasted space... also no challenge. I like challenging myself so unless I absolutely need it and I can't figure out the other bit then maybe? But what I have in mind should be relatively easy to do.

About the router stand... Looks good, but I must admit when I read "router", I thought of like an actual router well the woodworking kind.

The CTC-3D clone? or? I haven't looked into those so I am not very familiar. I am mainly interested in kits not fully working right out of the box... and you answered that later in the post... nice.

The fan bit. I plan on tinkering around a lot with that well the shroud bit. I have thought of an experiment to try to test out which ones are better, and I will throw in different speeds, different nozzles as well and document the process. I will take a few that others have designed, and design some of my own to see how they differ in performance. The test will be of multiple prints of a similar object, essentially 2 poles at varying distances, like half an inch up to say 3 to 5 inches or however long to see how far each can bridge the gap with little to no sagging. Then maybe ledges at varying lengths.

As for the V6 clone bit. I already bought one of these J-Head V6 Bowden and an MK8 Bowden feeder. I primarily got those to see if I like the bowden setup over the direct. If I find out I like the direct I will probably get this. If I like the bowden bit I think I could still get that one and just change out the heat sink and use the other bits. Either or fun times ahead.

>Or even the new e3d aero if you don't want v6 style eating into your build height.

If I need more build height, I can just get some longer rods, and some longer 2020's and extend it out. My main thing is I wanted 12"^2, since this is like 15.75" unless it takes 3.75" more of build height away I don't think I will fret too much.

>Definitely use the stock for a few months

A few months is an eternity for me. Maybe it will take that long to get built and dialed in? Who knows... Either or... the plan is to get the printer from kit form built and working and at least functional with prints. The only "change" will likely be with a 12x12 glass or mirror bed. Once it's up and running and I have a base to work from that I know works. Then I will change it over to bowden with the ones I linked and try that out for a while. Then decide whether I want to get the e3d one or not. The only reason I'd get the e3d one is the socks which I could buy seperate and the hotend tube. If I could find that bit seperate I probably wouldn't buy the complete kit. I know I can buy the "clone" version but the teflon tube is used as a liner and I'd like it to potentially be able to get up to around 300c without worrying about that liner melting. I also plan on getting some stainless nozzles and maybe... just maybe one of the tungsten ones. Not necessarily to use with this printer but likely the one that I design and build after this one. Think multiple independent extruders(not sharing the same block), and large... er build volume. I won't get too much into that idea right now though.

>I'd say the z axis rods are the one part of this built machine that is a little more difficult to access/disassemble easily

Yeah I'd say that looks fair. But that's also one of the selling points for me. That design looks rock solid. Even with the shitty melamine. I think once you get the binding figured out on the Z and have an idea how to do it regularly it will become less and less of a pain. As for the threaded and smooth rods, and only the threaded need to be somewhat loose? I heard it was pretty much all of them until it was aligned properly. Try loosening all of them up a little bit. Running it to the top and bottom then go to the top, tighten things down then down to the bottom then tighten. That should resolve any binding. From my understanding at least. It doesn't seem like you have tried that approach yet.

>TBH the melamine parts aren't that terrible.

Well for me I am not hugely against it but yeah. They work just not for my liking. I was initially hoping they would be actual solid melamine. But it looks like it is actually a melamine coating on top of low quality mdf. If it was actual melamine it would be a lot harder and wouldn't crush that easily. Actual melamine is a lot closer to a plastic than what that appears to be. Here in the states at least melamine is commonly put over particle board for counter tops. It's good so long as you don't get water on the edges as it will eventually swell.

As for the bracing... I assume you have home improvement stores there? If so try to find some of these if you don't want to print out new ones. Just figure out the dimensions you want with those flat corner braces and use those. You may need slightly smaller M5's but those are pretty cheap as well. Or if you have a grinder... you could knock a few MM off the ones you have.

>standard board will do the job just fine. The lure of touch/colour screens for 32 bit SBase boards isn't really for me.

I don't think I will go the touch screen route designed for these, If I go that route I will likely add wifi capability, and add a small tablet with browser functionality ;)... The reason for me, for 32 bit is 1/128 stepping, as well as quieter motors, and can be more complex without the program stuttering due to not being able to keep up with the needed calculations. With that I plan on trying to see the maximum print speed I can get and still get decent quality. Just to give you an idea. I plan on bolting it down to a heavy surface due to the inertia of the motors going side to side to keep it rock solid, that may give you an idea on how fast I am planning on cranking this or the next one up to, and yes I know I will likely need better motors and or stronger drivers and crank up the current. Maybe even a stouter belt system? Enclosed chain perhaps? Or longitudinal setup like this? http://www.technicopedia.com/8094/8094-2longitudinal.jpg, well without the extra bits.

As for the USB bit I am going to tinker around with that and SD card, I have a spare laptop I don't really use I can use for that purpose.

This all I need?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_63fyybPVBF44H

Like this? It is $60+ on Amazon. E3D All-metal v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal - Direct, 12v - Approximately 120mm PTFE (ASSEMBLY REQUIRED) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAK9JFO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpqQCbDZASXYV

I don't think the temperature is off.
I followed the instructions for selecting the correct thermistor.
My hot-end is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1#feature-bullets-btf

I have #5 selected in the Marlin firmware for the thermocouple

define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 / 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup) /

I did this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAK9JFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

which is sold by E3d on Amazon.

Works FANTASTIC. Fit snuggly right into the same carriage. Had to learn some soldering with the wires so I could connect it to my motherboard using the old wires connectors, but now it works great. Also, had to raise the bed with spacers and longer bed screws. It took some work, but it was fun, and rewarding once it got working.

Would this one be goodhot end v6

Two of these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

And the current rating is 2A

Hmm, the pi probably draws 2A along with the Steppers that's 6, and that doesn't include the arduino.

I guess that's probably an issue right there.

Though, I've noticed that this also happens when hooked up to my bench power supply. So maybe there's two issues here? Need caps to regulate and beefier 12v supply?

I don't need PWM, it's just connected to the PWM rail and the pins are set to digital output.

I have caps between the Vmoto and MotorGnd battery, maybe not large enough caps. (The caps only equal 10micro Farads, I was hoping it would be enough maybe an issue)
However it works when the servos are not connected, so I feel like the issue has something to do with the VDD to GND connection

The a4988 says in the diagram of the link I sent it needs a 5v ref with the microcontroller.
https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W (this is the stepper)


https://a.pololu-files.com/picture/0J3360.600.png?d94ef1356fab28463db67ff0619afadf
this is the image that shows it needs a 5v reference to my knowledge
basically I connect the arduino 5v(vdd) to the driver Vdd and the gnd to gnd.

is it normal that the a4988 always has current flowing from the VMOTO to gnd battery? Should I build a transistor switch or am I going to severely inhibit the steppers response time?

Yeah, this is considered more than enough power for a typical printer, so that's pretty beastly, haha. Anyway, the easiest conversion for a CNC mill is usually just to replace the brains with a basic Arduino based board that you can load Marlin or Repetier onto. The problem here though is the fact that I'm betting the motors you've got can't run that well with the max power most of those little built in stepper drivers can handle (I wanna say it's 2 amps at 12V per motor?) I know there's a way to add external steppers via relays and whatnot, but I've not had any experience with that. As far as the rest, all you really'd need to do is make sure the bed is just a flat, preferably heated surface (I think a lot of CNCs use vacuum tables? Not something you want for printing), and make a mount that you can use to hold something like an E3D-V6 in place where the head used to be. After that, you just need an extruder, and you can either attach that directly above the hotend or stick it somewhere off to the side and run the plastic through a teflon tube, in what's called a Bowden extruder.

this one's amazing. I've been using it as the extruder motor on both my 3D printers. Great torque, always runs cool. I'd recommend it. Only $15!

Ya man... your gonna dig it. And jams with high temperature filament will be a thing of the past.... You should go ahead and run linear advance with PETG once just so you get an effect of how much more torque you will be wielding after doing this. Here is the stepper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alright, I have a motor shield but I have no idea how to use it. Here is the motor shield I have, and here is the stepper motor I have. Is it possible to use this stepper motor with this shield?

As an examples: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Extruder-Aluminum-Reprap-Printer/dp/B0196B285I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1472749839&sr=8-5&keywords=mk8+extruder

There are plenty of printable designs out there too, but the metal ones are so cheap I don't see much of a reason to go with a printed one unless you want to modify the design.

Anycubic All Metal Right Hand MK8 Extruder Aluminum Frame Block DIY Kit for Reprap i3 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196B285I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r7TmzbEZ1YCZ1

Be careful doing this.

I think i ruined my feeder bearing doing this and had to replace it with this

Was not a simple procedure... but worth it in the end

I have this here and never had any issues. Works great and gets anything off my PEI so far. https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483558574&sr=1-4&keywords=3d+print+removal

Link to the good bits. It's not done. I'm just not sober enough to handle a heat gun. Used a hair dryer and a "Blade" to see her face.

I had something similar, but it wasn't beefy enough to pry the prints off the buildplate..

https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/

It totally flexed and slipped and cut my finger!

​

Re: plastic scraper that comes with the Photon: Arg- I guess I misunderstood, I thought that was for the buildplate. It's for failed prints in the vat! That makes much more sense.. I tried to use it on my first few prints and it totally failed

Wiki is: http://mpselectmini.com/

Some items I bought from Amazon (don't buy the hot end pieces if you have a V2. They changed the hot end to an all metal one):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WE1A3D2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2DNKJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4UXQ42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
V
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MQKW230/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACIFPYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes I would say the heated bed is a necessity if you want to print ABS the stock bed only reaches 45-50c and takes along time to heatup , the bed I bought is from folgertech it's the 12v silicone heated bed 300x300 and yes you could do a separate PSU as well I just didn't need to and the mosfet I bought is the trigorilla mosfet on Amazon, I would recommend that mosfet over any other as I bought a DCDC SSR and it didn't work, i then bought a BIQU mosfet on Amazon and it started smoking so I returned it but the trigorilla mosfet has had no issues so far, to add to my heated im going to add some cork to insulate it to hold the heat better.. hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_PI.Cyb7TB37GQ

This is the board I'm looking doing. I like it because of the heat sink.

I know there is that is half the price, but the heat sink I think is better.

I went with this Mosfet for my Maker Select and am very pleased with it:

ANYCUBIC 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5g3yWwXefECUF

It used to be branded TriGorilla. The thing is a beast.

That's a very good point. I'm confident in my soldering skills, I neglected that others may not be. I have seen a few FET's out in the wild. I'm not sure if they are all created equally.

I'm aware of the reprap one:
http://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html
and the Amazon Trigorilla one:
https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482884825&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Can anyone chime in on the best Mosfet solution for those that don't have the skills or want to possibly void their warranty?

Yeah, a second external mosfet. One of these: https://www.amazon.com/TriGorilla-Printer-Heating-Controller-Extruder/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1526154992&sr=8-19&keywords=mosfet The MK2/S has had a history of having arching and melting in the plug they use to hook the heat bed to the RAMBO. That's why the MK3 uses screw terminals so its less necessary. They're much safer and more robust. The PSU has a spare empty 12V +/- terminal. So I desoldered the heatbed end. Ran those leads to the on/off signal input of the external mosfet. The RAMBO bed output now becomes a lower amperage enable/disable signal. Then I ran new power leads from the PSU to the power in on the mosfet then power out to the bed, soldering those new leads onto the bed. Printed a small enclosure and use some self adhesive velcro to stick it to my rambo case. Aint pretty, but the risk of a meltdown is greatly reduced. Probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

So if anyone ever ends up in a situation like mine, I'd like to leave a note here. I purchased an aftermarket mosfet board (as long as it supports 5v switching you'll be fine). I soldered into the bypass pad on the main board, ran this to my + input on the mosfet and ran a jumper wire to the - from the power supply. Then I wired up my power supply and the bed, and the bed is heating properly. I bought a super beefy mosfet with a heatsink which is probably overkill, but it's working, so I can't complain.

Now I just have to figure out how to mount this thing in the box...

also look into a the mosfet upgrade. the a8 is notorious for burning the connectors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one i ordered for mine

Ahh cool. Those were the fittings I got for my V1. You're right that the hot end is different.

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Straight-Pneumatic-Connector-Extruder/dp/B01IB81IHG

These ones say they'll work on a v6 clone. Check around though for sure.

I probably bought them from AliExpress since they're cheaper there but you can easily find them on amazon if you want them sooner than later, ebay, or pretty much anywhere that sells printer parts.. easy way is to search 'e3d v6 push fitting' or 'e3d v6 Bowden fitting'.. just remember you'll need to have m3 bolts that are a little longer and you need to print the part they screw into that's in the voron1.5 extras folder IIRC

I agree with /u/DesignFlaw06. The MMU2S is not difficult to assemble or use. It does add a few possible problems but they're negligible in the long run. Single color prints still work fine, you just have to Load to Nozzle the desired color after each printer reset, before starting the first single color print - other than that it works just like before, and you can print your old single color gcode without problem. I would definitely print this M10 passthrough adapter and use that instead of the stock one. It does require 5x m10 adapters which you can get here for $7, but is significantly better than the press fit design of the original.

I haven't had any problems with my MMU2S since I swapped for the M10 adapter plate. I haven't tried using any dissolving supports yet but it's definitely on my list of things to try.

Edit: In my experience, if you forget to Load to Nozzle after a reset and before starting a print, on the first single color print the MK3S will run the mesh bed leveling and then prompt to do a Load to Nozzle anyway, but will do so right against the bed leaving a mess on the nozzle. Not a huge deal at all, it's just a tad annoying since it gets filament on the nozzle and can screw up your first layer. After first turning on the printer, I prefer to move the extruder up maybe 100mm off the bed, then do a Load to Nozzle, pull the filament trail left from the "swap", then start my print. This is the same as if you had manually swapped filament without the MMU2S. I am using a slightly older MMU2S firmware so it's possible they've changed this behaviour in the newest firmwares. I only have to do this when turning the printer off and on or doing a reset -- otherwise I can just keep printing and printing as long as I want without doing a Load to Nozzle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

works great but I frankly only replaced it once, after I needed to replace it a second time I left it off and have not noticed a difference. Without the insulation it is easier to keep clean and to get the nozzle to seat nicely when switching nozzles.

Thank you. I didn't know this was a thing. 2mm thick heating block cotton

I found these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAYCRAA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A256LC8UNAA9S0&psc=1

Did you have to change anything with the print head so it won't break the glass?

There's some on amazon, 10 pack for $8, if you prefer to use Amazon for things.

I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.

Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN

Thanks for the info. Sadly yes [I bought the correct ones](http://www.3D.com/ Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OPhWBbA71R3DG)

Thanks for the info on the hotend. I bought a gcr model and had clogging issues.

I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

these are the bushings that most people talk about for this printer. Igus doesn't make sleeved bushings that can fit as a drop-in replacement for the LM8UU bearings. IIRC last time I did the research, I found they do sell sleeved bushings that will fit in the Prusa (as in they have the correct outer diameter and length), but not with the correct inner diameter needed for the stock smooth rods. So if you went that route you'd need to not only get new bushings across the board, but you'd also need new rods everywhere too, and that pushed the cost up to about $75 when I last looked.

Honestly for the price I'm not really upset that I tried them, but I absolutely learned to just stick with stock unless it's giving me major issues.

Getting the y axis to move smoothly was a challenge, as the stock u-bolts would squeeze it vertically and leave wiggle room horizontally, which would allow the plate to cock sideways a bit and bind. With some finagling I was able to get it working, but there was a lot more resistance than I would have liked, it was consistent resistance across the whole range of movement, but it was still more than I wanted. The X axis I never got them fully working, as ANY force parallel to the smooth rods (but slightly offset in one direction) would cause binding by cocking the x carriage one way or another.



But don't let me be all doom and gloom, if someone is able to get them working and can talk about their experience, I'd love to hear! And I'm sure there are people out there who value the silence they provide over some unreliability or increased maintenance/tuning required, but I was overall unhappy with them and I won't try it again.

remember to use your og blocks can be removed with c-clip pliers $9.94 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 6,00https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLQMMLJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought some of these.
I haven't installed them yet, though.
I plan to do that when I do my Mk2.5 upgrade.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The linear bearings that come with the Maker Select V2 are crappy ones which made grinding sounds every so often. I wonder if the same on the Select Plus.

I ended up swapping the stock ones for these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XPRCMJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No more grinding sound.

If it is the same issue on yours, you may want to swap out the bearings.

Something like this?

Then you should look into this mod.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06XY5HBFX&pd_rd_r=b3620fff-eaf7-11e8-8e2e-49ff07944d9e&pd_rd_w=gYR5P&pd_rd_wg=vP9bd&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=WS5EC7YRNH2MZSQP80JQ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=WS5EC7YRNH2MZSQP80JQ
For safety, cause those boards have a history of fire.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1535805548&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mosfet&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBU2C64/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

Might help clarify, I'm talking about adding something similar to these in line from the PSU to the power connector for the heat bed on the main board:

https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

EDIT: I realized by watching the TH3D video I edited into the original post, that the above MOSFET is for a 12v PSU, you should research if a 12v MOSFET is needed instead. TH3D mentioned in the video that they do carry them.

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bzDsDb82BHFPJ. This is the one I'm using I coupdnt figure out if it is a 1.1.3 or not. I also pit them on the x,y,and z axis. Not sure if they need to be on all of them

Get tl-smoothers, cheap and easy to install. Not sure why Creality doesn’t just drop them in standard.
ARQQ TL Smoother Addon Module for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WG3SZQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Buy, These are the ones that i used. I put them on the extruder, X and Y axis motors. The X and Y i put inside the base of my monoprice maker select plus and the extruder one i put on top near the extruder itself. You just need to connect the cable from the board to it and then the other side to the motor.

Yep - right off of Amazon.

​

Stepper Dampers and TL-Smoothers.

I love my PEI sheet, at first it was strong enough I had to put my glass in the freezer to remove prints, after a while it dulls a bit, but if you sand it lightly it'll make it grippy again. Also alcohol / acetone wipe down every once in a while helps.

The one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_gSfsDbWX1S36A

I would get some of these to upgrade your print surface. I got them for my printer, and prints stick perfectly Everytime with absolutely no hairspray or tape, just clean it in-between prints.

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XJLWL6?adgrpid=61477283172&hvadid=274674964725&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9033692&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1527745715342828080&hvtargid=kwd-304685224209&keywords=pei+sheets&qid=1535906270&sr=8-1-spons&tag=hydsma-20&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XJLWL6

I replaced the old Buildtak bed on my 200x200 RAMPS i3 clone with a GizmoDorks PEI sheet and have been very happy with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074XJLWL6

At the time of this posting, there's a 10% off coupon (activated by clicking). Different sizes are also available.

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9GktDb0HBQ44Y

I don't have experience with that printer personally. However, from what I've read it seems like a decent machine. For about $100 less you can get an Ender 3, which is a good printer for the price and has a large community behind it. You could invest the difference purchasing upgrades (BLTouch sensor, magnetic build surface, etc...) and it would outweigh the i3 Mega significantly. If you spend a little more, you can get the CR-10 and increase your build volume.

I haven't owned an Anycubic before, so I have a bias towards Crealty's products. Alternatively, Powerspec is another brand that has similar printers. If you live near a Microcenter, it's likely that they'll have that brand on display. The one near me renovated an entire section of the store to dedicate it to 3D Printing.

Oh man, I've been nervously holding off on buying the skr mini e3 + BLT for a couple months now. Going to go order them now :D

(side note: ANTCLABS is the genuine BLT, right? Was 1m extension long enough for you?)

Thanks for the advice. I was considering this one earlier, but wasn't sure how it would do with that too left screw. I'll give this one a try.

> apparently depending on where you get it can affect which mounts can hold it properly

I didn't realize that. I figured they were all the same with different resellers. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9iKSDbGB674CP]. The comments say it's v3, but the back of the BLtouch says v2 smart

I bought a BLTouch a few weeks ago a love the dam little thing. I got this one on Amazon that came with extension cables from 1-2 meters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connection for the cable ends are "Dupont" like others have said before. You can but them for cheap on Amazon, if you don't like those type strip the wire and I say use Pitch JST-SM connectors.

I was going to get the ezabl kit but after watching a lot of videos are reading things people said BLTocuh is best for glass best because the ezabl can get bad reader from glass.


Edit: Oh and while installing the BLTouch a lot of guides say strip pin 29 wire from the LCD cable so the BLTouch can use it, but you dont want to do that buy this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CR-10-Ender-3-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-filament-sensor-BL-Touch-Creality/302960671554?hash=item4689dcfb42:g:GOIAAOSw~JFcM50B:rk:1:pf:0

That kit includes the genuine BLTouch, which is good. I got mine for $38 on Amazon, printed my own mouting bracket, and spliced into a wire to wire it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If budget is a concern, and you're up for a little more DIY, you could go that route. Or buy just a cheap Pin 27 board, and print the mount for the probe.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Creality-Ender3-CR-10-Pin-27-Board-for-BLTouch-or-Filament-Sensor-BLTouch-2PCSA/254398567391?hash=item3b3b5613df:g:kHsAAOSwzeddsRVe

I started with a Trianglelab 3D Touch. It was OK for a few days, then began failing, so I changed to the genuine version, which has worked better for me.

This is the BLTouch I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kapton tape works for ABS @110c, PLA@50-60c, and PETG at 80c. Cooling the bed releases the part mostly.

Edit: Hardest part of Kapton is getting it on to the glass smoothly. Use the Windex and credit card method. I'm sure there are videos out there. Everyone used to use Kapton. Not sure why others have forgotten it.

Get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3BvjDb847519E

Print is looking good, but you should pick up some socks for your hot end.

1. heater puts out X jules per second of heat
   
   The problem is that when pushing a lot of plastic it drains 2 X jules per second of heat. So even going at full force the heater can't keep up and the hot end will start to cool.
   
   So if say you're filament cant work below 180 setting the hot end at 230 instead of say 190 guves it more room to drop more in temp b4 it gets to cold to function
   
   
   
   
2. thermal sock. This thing https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Socks-Pack-V6-SOCK-PRO-3PACK/dp/B07779TP4S
   
   when you're heater is trying desperately to keep the hot end above 180. These things help stop half the heat being made from being lost to the air. More of it goes into the filament. Which means less chance of hitting that dreaded 180
   
   
3. jerk control stops the printer from when it's 150mm/s in one direction to instantly going 150MM/s in the other. It does this by a fraction of a second before the turn kicking it down in speed the making the turn and kicking it back up.
   
   Acceleration control handles the same thing but with regards to speed changes instead of direction changes
   
   Without some control at these speeds you will find odd artifacts like what you've described(curling and all) and eventually will likely damage your x or y axis belt

+1 for the silicone sock! I am now running those and they are great! Here is what I ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07779TP4S I think you will be okay to heat up your hotend, the thermistor wires are definitely not going anywhere.

Not from Prusa, but here are some other things I use over and over and over and am glad I bought. These are not affiliate links and you can probably find some of these items cheaper elsewhere:

Thin craft spatulas for removing prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075SLTY8B (some say "never scrape using a metal tool" but these are very thin and flexible and really help with some prints)

Cleaning filament: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW

Silicone socks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07779TP4S

Good quality hex drivers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006O5014 these will make assembly and maintenance MUCH easier than the included tools. Especially the smallest one that fits the set screw in the Bondtech extruder gear really well, much better than the "decent" hex keys I already had in my toolkit

Just wanted to make a comment here that it was the thermistor. I bought this part and replaced it and it's working great again. Hope this helps anyone in the future with the same problem.

Man, thank you for helping me so so very much. I will begin by trying to help you answer anything you ask as best I can. From what I recall considering this thing is now over two weeks old and I've done like of stuff to it yet still having no luck (yet moving forward) I can say that the person I bought it from had apparently thought it was a thermistor issue as the old one was still on but in bad shape. So I tested it with the wires still attached and I thought it read pretty good like close to the 100k ohms I'm looking for on my other printers thermistor.

The one I put in it is one of the 100k ohm-er's I was speaking of and as far as I can tell it very likely is the cause of this 700° BS that is going on now...

Everything should be hooked up right as I went and double checked that as soon as I encountered.this issue after replacing the thermistor.
Here is the screw in thermistor I haven't tried yet:

[Gulfcoast Robotics] Thermistor Upgrade for Maker Select Plus and Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus 3D Printers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SHqyCbFDJB3A5

This is an Amazon link to the thermistors and heaters for the hotend that I've put into it since getting it:

Sunhokey 12V 40W Cartridge Heater and NTC Thermistor 100K 3950 for 3D Printer(Pack of 12pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXSFSKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kiwvfNkNbZTWP

And it looks like the E3D V6 hotend that I think comes stock on the makerfarm Pegasus 10 models.

And this all being said and what you have already mentioned it is highly likely that I need new thermistors? I did go to the site that sells these and the heater I put on it at least claims all the same specs. 12v 40 watt heater... So I felt better after reading that considering I had already put it on this machine...

You are a terrific person for reaching out to me about this I've had a few folks reach out and I'm still dealing with these issues some of them the same ones. I don't expect there to be a ton of folks out there that are expert enough to just take on this sort of thing site unseen so I will do my best to accommodate you in any way that may help me gonna go post links to some pics of I can....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had almost the same problem on my Monoprice clone - would stop feeding, changed brands, etc. until finally the filament had fused to the PTFE tube in the hot end. Required a complete tear down to find it. I figured as long as I'm in there, upgrade the extruder plate

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVB6CYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the thermistor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Follow the instructions - do not skip the "tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Heat up to 250 and then tighten the nozzle" steps.

Strip off the Kapton tape (if it hasn't already torn off) and use these instead

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9KW1L1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I overpaid and got this , but temperature regulation is a big deal, you don’t want melted Teflon or a fire.

The couplings I use don't have those clips. These are the ones a lot of people seem to recommend so I don't think that they should give a problem. I tried that trick with using the bowden tube to clear the space but I didn't find any old filament.

Ah! Just learned a mistake in my learning. I had retraction mixed around with what must be Z Hop. I had seen the extruder drive make reverse moves but had not considered this to be retraction. A little confused as to why the profile would come with such a high retraction if this was way too long. (See the large dragon profile https://www.3dprintedtabletop.com/resources/3d-printing-profiles/)

I picked up a replacement bowden tube as recommended for the Ender 3 so will be fitting this soon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6?ref_=pe_3187911_248764861_302_E_DDE_dt_1 . I'll also be upgrading the fan sets as my next purchase as well.

​

I'll do the following for my next attempt:

• Perform a cold pull to get rid of any existing material.
  
• Run the profile on a string test to check out the retraction (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2080224).
  
• Dial in the (reduce) the retraction settings to get this right
  
• Test again on this model! (I may add z hop to prevent drag during travel.

Hmmm, maybe I should just go ahead and replace the whole tube and the fittings while I'm at it. That seems to be a highly recommended upgrade.

One day I'll actually get to do some printing of cool things instead of merely trying to get my Ender 3 operational. :/

​

Yup. Nothing really changed other then +5 degrees on the hot end. I do have small mods like these

Aluminum Extruder

tube & fittings

You seem knowledgeable about the couplers... Would these be better than stock? 4 Pieces PC4-M6 Quick Fitting + 4 Pieces PC4-M10 Straight Pneumatic Fitting

Some other things I'd recommend


TL-Smoothers https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WG3SZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know you already upgraded the extruder assembly but this duel geared version is nice: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PEI Bed surface (has to date been the best upgrade): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSJSDWR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and if you don't have a glass: https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Ender-Glass-Upgraded-235x235x4mm/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=creality+glass&qid=1571456745&sr=8-5


I'd recommend applying the pei in the smooth side of the glass that way you can flip it over to have the textured side if you want.