Things you'll want:
This book: http://www.amazon.com/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundred-Telescope/dp/0521781906/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1324830331&sr=1-3

Teflon pads as it is likely the pads on your dob suck and will make moving it suck as well.

A high field of view set of optics. I recommend any of the following (I have an 8" dob, you want a good wide-angle eye piece as it makes viewing a pleasure. Magnification is far from all important, esp. with a small telescope).

• http://www.universityoptics.com/eyepieces.html
  
• http://www.optcorp.com/ProductList.aspx?uid=30-718-1044-1046 (Baader planetarium)
  
• When picking out eye pieces, consider the magnification you'll get with your telescope (equations found online), the eye relief (bigger tends to be easier to use, basically how far your eye needs to be from the lens to be in focus), and the field of view (just how much of the sky you'll see).
  
  You need to collomate your telescope. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collimated_light. Basically, your telescope's mirror is likely very off center. A dobsonian like what you have is two mirrors, the main mirror (the big one), and the little post mirror that reflects light off the main mirror into your eye piece. You need a laser collomator that will shine a light from the eye piece into the telescope. If your telescope was properly collomated, the laser would bounce off of the post mirror, hit the dead center of the main mirror, reflect back onto the post mirror, and back into the collomator. Look online for more information.
  
  Lastly, you probably want a Telrad. It makes pointing your telescope very, very simple, and almost eliminates the need to use a finder scope. http://www.amazon.com/Telrad-Finder-Sight/dp/B0000ALKAN (you don't need any accessories for this. Its wonderful).
  
  Happy stargazing!
  
  Edit: feel the need to qualify why I suggest Teflon pads. your telescope moves around on two axises, up and down, and left and right. Unlike a "conventional" refractor telescope (the ones that we think of as a good "my first telescope"), a lot of weight is placed on those bottom pads. If you replace the pads that came with your telescope's base with teflon pads, it will make it a lot easier to move it along that particular axis, asthere is less friction.

There is a totally safe solar thin film called “black polymer.” You might have been using that. It makes the sun look a light orange, dark yellow.

A small word of advice on this: considering picking up the same equipment that is used to clean camera sensors, like air blower cleaners, camera sensor brushes, or cleaning swabs with solution. Here is a $15 kit on Amazon with tons of great cleaning implements. These are extremely gentle by design, because sensors are very fragile and ridiculously expensive. If you don't remove large particles using these tools, then the cloth might end up rubbing the particles against the lens and causing scratches.

• Canon T2i
  
• Rode mic
  
• 50mm lens
  
• Tripod
  
  Dslr cameras are the best thing in a price range of $4000 or less. The canon t2i is lower end but has huge bang for buck. You really do want an external recorder for them. Dslr audio is horrible but that rode mic will really improve it, just not as much as external recording. The 50mm lens is the best starting point it is very cheap but looks great. You need a tripod for a dslr because they look horrible hand held unless you have a good stabilization rig or steady cam.

thats a lot of paint..

check for lead

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-LeadCheck-Instant-Lead-Test-Swabs-2-Pack-LC-2SDC6/203313743

or

https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG

You can get a wireless remote shutter button for $9. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/

Here are 2 shots from the first night with the scope set-up below.
http://imgur.com/a/GVg3O

Here is the Scope used: 499.00 (Purchased a returned scope that had damage in shipping for 300.00...)
https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-8-inch-imaging-newtonian-optical-tube_p17402.aspx

Here is the mount used: 1,119.99
http://www.telescope.com/Mounts-Tripods/GoTo-Mounts-Tripods/Orion-Sirius-EQ-G-Computerized-GoTo-Telescope-Mount/pc/-1/c/2/sc/36/p/24336.uts

1618.99 total

You obviously will need a dslr camera with an adapter for the lens, but you can buy an adapter for cheap off of Amazon. For example.

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-T-Mount-Adapter-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000KNCB7C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368734650&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+t+adapter

And

http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93625-Universal-1-25-inch-T-Adapter/dp/B0000665V6/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_y


It can be tricky learning how to align the scope, but plenty of resources online for learning. Also, you'll need to know how to set up your camera properly with the right ISO and accessories to allow for bulb exposure and mirror locking first... But... Holy shitballs it's worth it!!

I bought mine on Amazon. It's a PlayStation plug, so you need one that works for their peripherals. It was $30.

Camera Extension Cable (PS4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFX1IHM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Oculus Quest Travel Case
Xbox One S Controller
Eneloop Battery Charger with 4 AA Batteries
Google Chromecast
RAVPower 2-in-1 Wall Charger and 10000mAh Power Bank
VR Cover Oculus Quest Foam & Interface Basic Set
Mamut Touch Grip
WIDMOvr Plano Lens Adapter
1.5ft Right Angle 3.5mm Audio Cable
Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro Plus Headphones
Koss KSC75 Portable Stereophone Headphones
6ft Right Angle USB-C to USB Cable
MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
LensPen
Kleenex Wet Wipes Germ Removal For Hands And Face

[AmazonBasics Wireless shutter Remote]
(http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wireless-Remote-Control-Canon/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416769020&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+shutter+remote)

>So... my question is: where should I invest that money? Like, in photography, I was taught to spend my money on glass

Photographer here. It's the exact same in visual astronomy. Spend your money on either mirrors or lenses. Translating that to practical, it means don't buy an expensive mount.

You'll have to make a decision about whether you want to do primarily visual or astrophotography. For your budget, you can get top-of-the-line large aperture equipment for visual, or bottom-of-the-barrel equipment for astrophotography. Visual requires lots of glass, astrophotography requires expensive mounts and not so much on the glass.

If you are going with visual, you could get yourself a 12" dobsonian such as the Zhumell Z12 ($799) and and have enough left over to kit yourself out with a bunch of upgrades like a Telrad finder and a couple of very slick Televue eyepieces.

Someone else mentioned the Celestron 8SE, and that would be a good compromise - fairly big aperture but also capable of doing some astrophotography. But that is quite a bit more expensive than a 12" dob, and quite a bit smaller, so you're losing out on value if you really want to do visual.

Here's your scope

Here's your Telrad

Here's your book

$260, ten over your budget but you'll really want that book ;-)

Happy Gazing

I'd suggest using a Telrad finder. I took the finderscope off of my C8 pretty much right away and only use the telrad for rough-sighting in. I agree with you - the finderscope always blew my reference way out of whack.

You know, I was about to type a long reply but I've decided to be lazy and copy/paste the contents of an email I sent to a buddy who just bought a T3i. I use a 60D, and use all these things, but most all this stuff should work for you with a 5D.

Crane and eyecup:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SAHSVI

Cards:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WE4HE2
I buy 8 or 16 gigs, with the idea being that that's NOT a lot of room. If I had a 32 or 64 gig card and that card failed I'd much rather lose 16 gigs of footage than 64 gigs which could be an ENTIRE production.

Batteries:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZSHKIO
Work justs as good as the Canon name brand ones.

My 'Kit' lens:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EXR0SI

Cheapo plastic shoulder mount we used for the music video:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036NMQ7S

Gini camera rigs:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/gini-2011/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
I did a minimum purchase right as the auction ended, and snagged their "dslr rig pro 10" for 235 + shipping. If you look at their past auction history, it seems like EVERYONE does this.

Audio Recorder:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B001QWBM62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315766729&sr=8-1
They just got me this bad boy at work to plug my XLR mics into, so I record audio to it, and video to my dslr and then sync in FCP. Works awesome, however you probably could do the same thing with your HDV camera, they'd be about the same size.

As always: cheesycam.com has the best reviews and whatnot on all this stuff.

Here's KEH.com's listing for the kit lens you are looking at. They have a rating system with UG at the bottom, then BGN, and up. I'd go for BGN though, they tend to be extremely conservative with their appraisals. http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Digital-Zoom-Lenses/1/sku-DC079990648100?r=FE

Remember, it's the glass that matters. so buy the (or borrow my) cheapest lens you can and start saving for the nice lens.

Heres the shoulder rig

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1374173576&sr=8-3&keywords=shoulder+rig

I've stored my Rift like that since I bought it 2 years ago and have no issue. I also use one of these to dust and clean the lenses about once a week: https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

Have you tried a lenspen? I swear by my lenspen. Such an incredible tool.
Dont rub too hard with a cloth, otherwise you may scratch it.
https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

Have you tried a LensPen? I really love them.

Just had a look, it's more than most vr games to extend that thing, £23 on amazon:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539336679&sr=8-2&keywords=ps4+camera+extension+cable

I have a similar multi-monitor setup and no desk space. I bought this by searching "flexible tripod clamp" on Amazon. I can report back next week once I get a chance to try it out.

http://www.amazon.com/Smatree%C2%AE-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Cameras/dp/B00MWNYGUS/

Windows Mixed Reality will automatically track and recognize different rooms that you've set up, as long as things haven't changed too much since the last time it saw it.

My Odyssey is on an Alienware 17R4 that I move between multiple locations, and I almost never have to setup the rooms again. I just wave the headset around a bit when I start the WMR portal and let it scan across the room and floor and it almost always automatically recognizes the room and restores my boundaries.

Even if it says it couldn't match the room and prompts for setup, it's actually still looking and matching, so don't give up immediately, wave it around a bit more, and it might still pick up the old scan.

If you need a long cable run between rooms, I suggest buying a Vive Link Box and power supply, and use it in the middle of the cable run to boost the signal and power. And also use active extensions cables.

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.

You will need a T adapter for your eyepiece holder (20$ at most) and a T mount to EOS adapter (10 to 15$). You can find both on Amazon: let me know if you have any trouble finding them (I'm on my phone on a train atm, sorry) see the links above. You can then use the free EOSMovrec software (on Sourceforge) to tether your camera to a PC and use the central part of your sensor to acquire near native resolution 1024x600 video. Beware: the binary Mac version is very outdated, you'll want to use the Windows version (or compile from the source). You'll then want to stack the video (e.g. in Registax).

EDIT: added links.

You'd probably need something like this, and a few other pieces (besides the actual telescope). You wouldn't use either of the lenses you have.

Just as important as the camera-to-telescope adapter is an extremely solid mount for the entire assembly. Most run of the mill telescope tripods and mounts won't be sturdy enough to eliminate the vibrations that will cause blurry pictures. A remote shutter release, mirror lockup, and a windless night would also be helpful in making blur free images.

These are the cheapo flashes on probably ebay brackets. I have a feeling this guy is actually using a rig like this to do some work. The thing on his back is this only inverted.

What is the result you'd like? Good quality training montages? Or just quick and dirty training clips?

For quick videos, you can get a cheap setup with these items:

Tripod:

http://www.amazon.com/JOBY-GorillaPod-Original-Black-Charcoal/dp/B0087FFTT2/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51I9rXPp7ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR135%2C135_&refRID=1JJ8S8MYKH0MRNMG59A9

Phone mount:

http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Monopod-Tripod-Samsung-AGG1462/dp/B00PBCBZJ2/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1459116583&sr=1-1&keywords=phone+tripod+mount

OTG USB cable if you're hurting for storage:

http://www.amazon.com/Bargains-Depot-Electronics%C2%AE-Product-Camcorder/dp/B00M8QXL64/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1459116662&sr=1-3&keywords=on+the+go+usb

You can plug in a flash drive and keep that in your gym bag.

If you want to do high quality videos, go with a good smart phone or camera such as a decent camcorder, and a shotgun mic to get rid of the tinny sound.

Rode mic:

http://www.amazon.com/Rode-Videomic-Shotgun-Microphone-Rycote/dp/B00CAE8PM4/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1459116783&sr=1-3&keywords=rode

If your camera doesn't have a shoe mount:

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing-Handle-/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1459116904&sr=1-4&keywords=camera+grip+handle

Hope this info helps.

This was well edited, but the amateurish shots let it down - that first pan looked like a dolly slide and I got excited!

A few tips for your friend:

• Buy a Flycam Nano. It's a little weighted contraption with a gimbal handle that from the moment you strap a camera onto it will change your fucking life. Watch how steady this guy's shots are as he chases his daughter around a playground.
  
• For shots where you're on a board yourself, consider buying an X-Grip, or make one yourself out of 20mm PVC from Bunnings. Or make a DIY Fig Rig, or dangle your camera upside-down on your tripod. The basic message to take away is: never shoot any video on a DSLR without the camera attached to something bulky.
  
• Try to avoid having camera crew in your shots. It ruins suspension of disbelief and people start looking for them in the background, and not watching the story you're trying to portray.
  
  Otherwise, cool vid!

i'd avoid in the future the shots like 0:55-1:15, try and get the full body in the shot rather than lower half. generally speaking, the rule of thirds is a pretty good thing to stick to when film making: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds
Buying something like this helps a lot when your skating and filming: http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing-Handle-/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367859643&sr=8-1&keywords=steadicam. Also, mess around with colour correction, it goes a long way in improving the quality of your footage once you get the hang of it. I'd also keep practising syncing your footage with your music. generally making sure things happen (cuts/transitions, effects, or someone sliding, for example) on the bass kick and high hats is a good rule to stick to. I'd start messing around with whatever effects and transitions you have in your editing software and see what else you can sync to the audio which looks good. just don't over do it on the effects, most music videos only have 4 or 5, it gets too confusing and inconsistent otherwise. hope this helps!

BAM

If that's not good enough?

BAM

Also, use a 30mm or below, since the D3200 is a crop sensor.

I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):

• skeleton camera case (so the mic cable can connect)
  
• extra batteries/charger
  
• 160 LED light
  
• stereo condenser
  
• accessory bracket for mic
  
• tripod GoPro mount (to connect to the grip)
  
• camera grip
  
• USB mic adapter

You could always get a lead test kit and find out for sure. https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG

Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.

Or the lenspen. Works pretty well. https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

Definitely a rocket blower or a lens pen type device. I have found the lens pen quite handy.

I never had a problem with the cloth that came packaged with the DK1. Should I use that one instead? Or just buy an alternative lens cleaning kit like the one /u/eVRydayVR recommended?

I ordered this cheap filter and just fit it to the size of my telescope with cardboard, tape, glue, and aluminum foil.

Is this what you are looking for? You might get it cheaper if you shop around.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM

I use this clamp on a door frame. It's great as it holds well, leaves no marks, and when I'm done I just move it back to the top of my monitor.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

Try those. Buy yourself a couple spares and they'll be as reliable as you need.

My two cents is that it's not really worth it. Yes, TTL can be convenient if all you will ever do is to shoot with on-camera flash, and leave your camera in auto all the time, and with an advanced wireless setup with multiple flashes, it's somewhat convenient to be able to adjust the ratios from the camera itself, rather than having to go to each flash in a different setup.

That said, in terms of advanced lightning and overall versatility, you are going to have a much better time with a wireless setup and multiple flashes.

However, for the price of the one SB-700, you can have:

1. 2x Yongnuo YN-560 III - 2 x $85 = $170
   
2. Yongnuo RF-603 wireless transmitter - $32 - ^1
   
3. Cowboystudio double light kit - $68
   
   Total: $268, that leaves you with enough to add a softbox or some lightning modifiers.
   
   Here's the thing: A manual flash, and compensating for it, even if you occasionally mount it on your camera becomes second nature after just a week or two, and the sheer convenience of being able to (let's say you're photographing a party), being able to just put two flashes in the room, set them both to something reasonable, point them at the ceiling, and shoot away handily beats out TTL, and avoids the harsh light on-camera flash gives you.
   
   
   Since you're giving prices in euros, you may want to check amazon.fr, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de - whichever of these is more local to you - the Yongnuo gear is usually available there, and light stands to the Cowboystudio are usually also available, and shipping may be cheaper.
   
   ---
   1. Note there are two different Nikon models, the N1 or the N3 - you'd need to check which model you need.

The IR ones... they’re so handy.

Link, but for whichever camera.

Amazon makes one for under $10!

The ND filter isn't dark enough to safely take pics of the sun. You want a solar filter, something like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Solar-Filter-Telescopes-Binoculars-Cameras/dp/B00DS7S52W

Same seller in amazon us:

https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Extension-Cable-PS4-playstation-vita/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ps+camera+extension+cable&qid=1562877466&s=gateway&sprefix=ps+camera&sr=8-3

Pretty easy find but whatever. I hope OP doesn't get the wrong idea from you.

i wouldn't recommend having it anywhere that might vibrate, also keep in the mind lighthouse does vibrate a bit itself so make sure it is secure so it doesn't fall off, you can actually use something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459340823&sr=8-1&keywords=steadycam

I just ordered THIS, and it should be coming in today. I can update you and let you know how all my equipment fits.

Here's what I got:

• G7
  
• 2 Lenses (Stock and 25 mm)
  
• Gopro
  
• Attachable Light
  
• Gorilla Pod
  
• 24" Stabilizer
  
• Laptop
  
• Extra batteries (For Light and camera)

u/pastramiswissrye is totally right in that lights, sound, lenses, and media are all more important than the best camera.

My personal favorite camera in that price range is the Panasonic G7 and a good 12-35 lens. The G7 is like the little brother to the GH4 as it does 4k and just is missing some of the more pro features and is $600 for the camera. The lens is another $600 but you could just use the kit lens and upgrade your lens later.

Continuing with what Pastrami said, you should have good audio, lights, and media storage, in addition to the camera and lens. For audio, the rode videomic pro is a good all-around shotgun mic that you can put on a boom pole for good short film on location sound, however you will need someone to help hold your boom pole.

For lights, a good reflector will help you use the sun as a light when shooting outside on location for a short film. If you are in a studio, this four socket CFL light kit will go a long way to help. I personally use one of them and they are great for the price. Just pop in four cfl bulbs and you are good to go. If you would prefer LED lights which are smaller and don't heat up as much, but are pricer, you can get this LED studio light kit.

On the media storage side of things, you are going to want to pick up a few of these 64GB U3 SD cards for use with your G7 or any other new camera you get. Especially if you plan on shooting in 4K.

If you are going to shoot in 4K, your file sizes are going to go way up and you are definitely going to need to get more hard drive space on your computer. You may even have to upgrade your computer to handle 4K video editing. It all depends on what you have and what you want to do.

On the editing side, I personally use Final Cut Pro X on my Mac. It is $300 but a great piece of editing software, used by pros. If you are on a mac but don't want to spend money, just use iMovie, it will probably do what you need it to do unless you edit in 4K. On the windows side, some people use sony vegas, some people use AVID, some people use premiere pro, there is a bunch of them out there and you kind of just have to choose one. (I have never used any of them)

Like he said, there is no canon r6i. I assume you mean T6i, but you still need to do some more research. I hope this helps!

You don't need much more than a portable 3" telescope to image the sun itself, and see planets. You will see the rings of saturn and moons and cloud belts of Jupiter, but not a lot of detail.

As far as being able to record stars next to the sun during a solar eclipse, that's hard to say, and could be very dangerous.

When there is a total solar eclipse, you end up seeing the corona around the sun. But this corona can be quite bright and dense, and obscure stars behind it. What's more is, you can't have a solar filter on during this time if you want to record the stars as it will completely block their light. So you have a very short window in which you can safely record images before enough of the sun shines brightly enough that it burns the image sensor on the camera (or your eye, if you're trying to position it).

Moreover, depending on how close the stars have to be to the edge of the sun in order to measure the effects of its mass, you may need high power. High power means you need a tracking mount, and that may be difficult to get for $250.

All that aside, you'll definitely want a DSLR for this because a cheap webcam will likely produce too much noise/grain and will have too low a resolution when trying to image potentially faint stars near the sun. To couple the DLSR to the telescope requires a T-Adapter and a T-Ring for the particular brand of camera you'll be using.

Congrats, and welcome to the club!

This time of year, definitely Orion nebula, Andromeda and Jupiter.
In Spring, Mars and Saturn should look nice through that 10" dob!

Also, if I may impart a tip. Invest in a Telrad finder. Seriously. They ROCK.

http://www.amazon.com/Telrad-Finder-Sight/dp/B0000ALKAN

If you plan to do a lot of Lunar observing, I'd suggest a Lunar filter. The moon is VERY bright through an eyepiece.

> In terms of sharpness, how is the 55-250 comparable to any of the 70-200 lenses?

70-200s are generally the higher-end range of lens manufacturers.

That said: http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Compare-Camera-Lenses/Compare-lenses/(lens1)/622/(brand)/Tamron/(camera1)/0/(lens2)/449/(brand2)/Canon/(camera2)/0

> I am hesitating between the Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 ($550) and Tokina 12-24 f/4 ($400.)

Most people on this sub prefer the 11-16.

This mic seems to get good reviews on Amazon, for the fraction of the Rode. If you can't afford it, I would go for this one.

Boom.

That looks like shoulder mount to me, the camera is pretty high off the ground to be actually handheld.

A nice cheap option for shouldermounting a lightweight camera is this cowboy studio shoulder rig - though it's often available unbranded for far lower prices, especially if you're happy to wait for a direct import from China.

There are other systems available, though I'd personally advise against any of those super-cheap ones with the two handles on; as you need to have a free hand to pull focus and operate the camera.

For both handheld and shoulder mount, camera weight is the key. If you're trying to do either with a tiny, lightweight camera, you'll get a lot more shakes and wobbles. By adding mass to your rig, you'll end up with more stable shots and a smoother result.

I was recently in your position, and after doing a lot of research, I found some pretty solid products for the price.

I picked up the following:

• P&C Shoulder Rig $259
  
• NEEWER CN-160 Dimmable LED Video Light $35
  
• Rode Video Mic Pro $229
  
  Additionally, you may want to pick up a Follow Focus if you want to do some nice focusing in camera, without having to fake it in post.
  
  To secure these all to the rig, and your H4N, I would recommend picking up 2 of these Friction Arms
  
  Edited: Formatting
  
  
  

I went ahead and looked up the adapters you would need to hook up to an Orion telescope, the t-ring and the camera adapter. However, this looks like it can total to over $60 for adapters. Apparently the Orion T-ring and a Celestron camera adapter are most frequently bought together. I'm not sure of how the two different brands will work together.

> how can I find dark locations near me to look at stars?

Go to the physics department in your school, and talk to the professor who does astrophysics. He or she probably knows what to do. If this doesn't work, see if there's an amateur astronomy club in your city, and go to one of their meetings (they're likely to have monthly stargazing parties or something).

> Are there any photography-specific telescopes out there

Assuming you have an SLR camera, get a T adapter and T ring. The T adapter replaces the eyepiece of whatever telescope you get and makes it easy to hook T rings on, and the T ring has the same mounting mechanism as the lens to your SLR camera. Make sure to get both pieces made by the same company that makes your telescope, and get the T ring that's the proper size for the maker of your camera.

If you intend to do deep space photography (i.e., very long exposures of very faint objects), you'll need a computerized mount so that the telescope can keep the object in view as it moves across the sky. In particular, it should be a computerized equatorial mount, so that the object in your field of view doesn't rotate as the telescope tracks it. Nearly all computerized mounts are equatorial, just double-check that you don't get one of the unusual ones. Unfortunately, these tend to be expensive. It's much cheaper to start with a non-computerized mount and to photograph bright things like planets.

There are two parts that work together. There's the T-ring, which is particular to your camera; and there's the T-adapter, which is not. As a general rule, T-adapters are not specific to the scope - they either have a 1.25" barrel or a 2" barrel, so it's really a matter of what size focuser your scope has.

I'm not familiar with the particular T-adapter you've linked to, so perhaps someone else could offer more definitive commentary on it. If I understand correctly how it's intended to work, the wide end would screw into the rear cell on your SCT, where the narrower end would screw into your T-ring. I'm more familiar with this other model, which works as I described and should also, as far as I know, be able to work with an SCT.

Here is an example on Amazon for the 1.25" kind (the type the score you are looking at will work with. It goes in place of your eye piece.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000665V6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1413602179&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&dpPl=1&dpID=211R69YGRGL&dpPlWS=1&ref=plSrch

I don't think this review went far enough so here is my additions:

Pro's: A Dobsonian Telescope is a big-ass light bucket. It will get more light than any other starter scope you will be looking at.

Con's: Like boogiemantm said, There is limited functionality. You will not be able to do astrophotography and you will have to learn the night sky yourself. This is a tough task and COULD limit your enjoyment. It's really preference on a part of the buyer. Also, you might not be able to fit it into a small car. Make sure to check the size of your car vs the size of the telescope.

Note: There are push-to dobsonians, or "Intelliscope's" as Orion calls them. These will cost extra money.

If you do plan on going with a dobsonian (that is not push-to) you will need a couple more items. Such as: Star Map Book, a better finder scope such as The Telrad, Eyepieces (You will need for any telescope you buy), and most likely a laser pointer.

Here is my suggestion: Shop around and learn about the telescopes before actually buying one. You should be able to speak with your salesman fluently in their vocabulary (otherwise your paying for something your not fully understanding).

If you need some links, just let me know and I'll promptly spam you with a bunch of informational links.

I love my AD8.

I've bought tons of eyepieces and accessories. Without a doubt the best accessory I've bought is this adjustable height chair. Having this chair is the difference between seeing something in space, and observing something in space. The best eyepiece in the world is worthless if you're too uncomfortable to spend much time looking through it.

Vestil CPRO-800LP Ergonomic Worker Seat/Chair, 13-1/2" Width, 10" Depth, 300 lb. Capacity, 18" - 33" Height Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052PJFCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NCyoDb02ZGBPR

My next favorite accessory is the Telrad view finder. It's a game changer. After getting it, I just took off the viewfinder that came with the scope and I don't miss it at all.

Telrad Finder Sight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ALKAN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xGyoDbJDEY6Q7

For eyepieces, I love the big 2" that comes with the scope. It's my favorite. Otherwise I use this 8-24mm zoom eyepiece.

Celestron 93230 8 to 24mm 1.25 Zoom Eyepiece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007UQNV8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QIyoDb0P2HZCA

I've bought tons of other stuff but most of it doesn't get used much. This three things I use all the time.

Clear skies!

The big dobs are super easy for kids to handle, too. They sit on the ground and you just grab the end of the scope and swing it around. I've had a 12 year old out having fun with mine, not scared in the least that they could knock it over or damage it.

For ease of finding things for the kids, I would add a Telrad Finder, and stick that thing on the side right next to the normal finder. Kids are short and have an easy time leaning over and looking up through the finder and pointing the scope at different spots in the sky. Took a minute for them to get the hang of guiding the scope.

The telescope is definitely going to come with a collimating device of some sort. I've only ever used a laser collimator, so I'm not sure how hard other collimating devices are to use. It never takes me more than 5 minutes to collimate my dob though.

I would get a 2x barlow (this one is pretty nice and also cheap), and some gold-line eyepieces. They're recommneded often on here because they're not too expensive but still pretty good. I would maybe get maybe the 15 mm and 6 mm. Those combined with the scope eyepieces and the barlow should give you all the magnifications you could want.

Whether a solar filter is worth it is entirely up to you. However, just note that if you don't want to put in $100s of dollars, you're pretty much limited to something made with Solar Filter Film or a basic glass filter. The views you get from that are definitely nice, but it might not be what you're expecting. You'll see something like this with those filters.

If the scope doesn't come with a 0 magnification red-dot finder scope, you might want to get one. Telrads are considered one of the best one's on the market (and I love mine to death), but they can be a bit pricey. A cheaper red dot finder scope (like this one) should also serve you just fine.

Besides that, I would definitely recommend getting the book Turn Left at Orion. It's essentially the complete beginners guide to all things Amateur Astronomy. It's absolutely fantastic.

One small other thing I can think of is a red-light flashlight (like this). It's definitely not necessary, but it's nice to be able to look at things in the dark without losing your night vision too much.

Jupiter and especially Saturn looked underwhelming for me in my telescope, but after cleaning up my eyepieces's lens and secondary mirror with just a wet and dry paper towel my quality was greatly increased. Weather conditions like heavy wind and humidity can also affect the view pretty badly. Collimating your telescope properly is something you probably hear all the time, but it really does make a big difference. As for eyepieces, the Celestron Omni has served me well but I've upgraded to a "Baader Planetarium 8-24mm Hyperion Clickstop Zoom Mark IV Eyepiece" (what a mouthful). The views are noticably better and the zoom feature is so, so, soooo convenient. It's especially handy for showing friends and family who are not into the hobby, as you don't have to change the eyepieces constantly for them. It runs for about 300 dollars which is a big asking point, but there are cheaper alternatives like the Celestron zoom eyepiece (https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8) which are only 65 dollars. I would recommend getting one of those, a decent 2x barlow (shouldn't be more than 40 dollars), and a dedicated large eyepiece (in the 30-40mm range). That's all you really need for casual observing by yourself or to show friends and family.

No that's a good budget :-)

Maksutovs

The Maksutovs are more expensive than other telescope types, but they are very compact and make good spotting scopes.

You may have seen the Celestron c90 or so on Amazon if you're looked at spotting scopes.

 

Limits

The larger the aperture, the higher you can magnify without the image getting too dim (and the higher the resolution). http://blog.pixelgiraffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/200x.jpg (and especially the later would be increasingly blurry)

So while the atmosphere often limits how high you can magnify, the c90 would have a pretty dim image at 150x compared to a 4"(102mm) or 5"(127mm) Maksutov.

Conditions

Over 100x things really depend on seeing conditions and how clean the air is (both regarding dust and fog).

Look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYhIKRd-yBM for example. Not because of the mirage/reflections, but how the air flimmers, moves. If you were to zoom in even further, all you'd see is blurry colors dancing around.

If your view looks like this, you couldn't magnify high either. The further the target, the more washed out due to air pollution. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Los_Angeles_Pollution.jpg

 


Field of view

Just to estimate magnification.


Degree is used to refer to a "piece of the sky". 360° all around you;

Our eyes have a field of view of about 135° x 180° (But the center vision where things are sharp is of course smaller, ~100° possibly).

So with 10x magnification, binoculars for example, you can get about 7-8° true field of view or so, as the eyepieces have a limited apparent field of view.

In a telescope at 100x, it's 0.7°.


Simulations

I did a quick simulation,

• http://blog.pixelgiraffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/truefield.jpg
  
  
• http://blog.pixelgiraffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/zoooom.jpg
  
  But other than not having a high resolution image, seeing will kind of do the same at higher magnification. You can't quite get it sharp enough if the conditions aren't good or if the telescope is being pushed beyond it's capabilities.
  
   
  
  The TL;DR of that: Telescopes are awesome, but you can never magnify as high as you want :-)
  
   
  
  Shopping
  
  So what telescope exactly?
  
  
  If you first want to try what's possible, go to the classifieds and get a used 70mm refractor for ~$20. Their accessories aren't good (mount, eyepieces) but you can estimate what's possible.
  
  
  You could get a c90 and it will work very well. It costs $160 and works on almost any camera tripod if it's halfway sturdy.
  
  The larger 4"(102mm) costs $230 without mount. Given the prices of some sets, it almost makes sense to go with the 4" or even 5" ;-)
  
  If you don't mind spending a bit more right away, go check out a 5" Maksutov and a range of eyepieces.
  
  
  One of the cheaper 5" is https://explorescientificusa.com/products/fl-mc1271900tn?_pos=6&_sid=3cf57ffbf&_ss=r (The 4" is $100 less). The mount is a compromise but should work.
  
  The 5" Mak is also amazing for moon and planets. Stars will remain dots. 200x magnification isn't an issue.
  
  
  I'm not a fan of zoom eyepieces as they have a narrow 40° apparent field of view at the overview magnification, but for terrestrial they are quite nice. https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8/ (Do not get eyepiece sets, they are mediocre at best. Never look into the sun without a suitable filter!!!! Permanent, instant blindness).
  
  
  
  The eyepiece would give you up to ~238x magnification, so it really maxes out what's possible. Still, a dedicated 15mm or so could be nice as you can rarely magnify that high... And at 15mm the zoom eyepiece has a narrower apparent field of view.
  
   
  
  
  EDIT: Size Video of a 5" but on EQ3 mount https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVmU4v2jJLg

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007UQNV8/ref=pd_aw_sim_p_1?refRID=0014SNKCY8APY6WBWKF4

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

Just a few thoughts: If you are a beginner and especially if you are going to be both operating the camera and doing interviews at the same time, don't use a DSLR. You need a regular consumer camcorder, the nicest one you can afford. Be sure it has an external microphone input and a headphone output. So, you will need at least one external microphone, a shotgun and/or a lavalier. The most important thing in your documentary is good sound!

This little Audio Technica lavalier can sound just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119845&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier+mic

This inexpensive shotgun also works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119920&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+shotgun+mic

A little explanation: A consumer camcorder has pretty good auto focus and usually face recognition, so you won't have to worry about keeping things in focus. Also, you'll have pretty good auto exposure and auto white balance. If you are shooting your first documentary with limited experience and/or a very small crew, you need to think about content and let the camera help you instead of having to think about too many things. It's true a DSLR with a good operator can make your documentary look better, but it won't matter if the story isn't there. If your story is good, the audience will accept a lot of shortcomings, especially in the picture.

When shooting, use the external microphone whenever you can. If you have only one subject, use the lavalier, otherwise use the shotgun. Always monitor the audio in the headphones. I have a friend who accidentally plugged the microphone into the headphone jack and didn't know it until too late!

Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002GYPS3M/ref=aw_ls__5?colid=XREX5Q3TPYE2&coliid=I18IR1HSIBHNAX

I'm getting into filmmaking and I can't afford a new mic yet. This is a reasonably priced one I'm looking into.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQQ7QE/ref=aw_ls__3?colid=XREX5Q3TPYE2&coliid=I3VY2E5QUH0FZF

This is what I want to get as a boom pole for the mic, since a real boom pole is a ridiculous amount of money.

If someone got me this stuff I might literally lose my fucking mind. I'm only 16 and I'm having so much trouble finding any sort of job. So c'mon...gimme !

The $30.95 Nady SGM-12 mic + the $17.44 Hosa MIT-156 combined cost less than a [$55.24 ATR-6550] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GYPS3M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002GYPS3M&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). And [15' of quality 3.5mm cable for $9.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZQWKII/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00GZQWKII&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (which you will need to connect the ATR-6550 to your camera) would cost you about the same as the $9.88 PylePro XLR cable I linked to above.

The difference (in addition to saving a few dollars) will be that you'll be running balanced XLR audio on balanced XLR cable instead of unbalanced audio on 15 feet of 3.5mm cable - which is more susceptible to RF interference and hum.

Good luck with your project,

Bill

He could probably get by with this. It's what I used for three years. Great sound quality. Only negative is it doesn't come with a shock absorber, but I built my own for under $2, it's pretty easy.

The exact setup that i decided on when i first bought my equipment was a G7, sigma combo, and Sachtler Ace M. Very solid stuff.

Honestly, i just went with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S. The reviews were surprisingly good, and for that cheap there's no reason why you shouldnt have it in your kit. It's super compact and you can even take your hands off the rig and it stays up. I'll be honest, i've used it maybe once, but that's because i really dont like shooting anything handheld or with a shoulder rig. I guess you have to ask yourself what you want a rig for? I'd rather just keep my shots on a tripod.

If i had a blackmagic, sure! I'd throw it on a rig. But with these tiny bodied, cameras with the jello-ey shutter and strong video look that they have...i stay far away from that look.

I also dont know that i'd ever use the 50mm on a shoulder rig. The longest i'd probably go is the 35 end of the 18-35mm. Depending on what you're doing, i don't know that a cage is a good investment. Especially since you might want to get a cage made specifically for your camera, and if you're planning on upgrading your G7 like i did, you dont want JUST a G7 cage.

Note: i also somehow managed to find a Camtree Hunt GH4 cage on ebay for $120. It's amazing quality, and i don't know how i got it that cheap because now i can only find them (or the varavon similar ones) for like $350. Either way, they're good quality for the price.

Seconding the kit 18mm as probably wide enough, but if you're wanting really wide at that price range - here's a Samyang 10mm 2.8 or if you don't mind not having as fast a lens (less DoF options and need more light) a Canon 10-18.

My advice since I own the same camera - if you don't have it already get magic lantern installed. If you have trouble PM me and I'll walk you through. It gives you new options with your camera. Second, if you don't have a fast lens, get the nifty fifty - canon 50mm 1.8 and consider getting the new canon 24mm 2.8. These are fast prime lenses that will 1, challenge you to work on framing your shots since you can't just adjust the zoom, and 2, let you open up for more light, practice things like pulling focus, get some 'cinematic' shots with subject in focus and the blurry background (bokeh). Then invest in audio. At the very least a dslr shotgun mic like the Rode VMP or if you have a smartphone you can use, something like a Rode Smartlav. Better yet, spend next to nothing and make one out of a headphone/microphone combo for cell phones like this one. Tons of DIY projects on the web. Buy a really cheap cam stabilizer or make one. Same for jibs. Make a skateboard dolly shot rig.

If you do get the T3i, try going with an on-board mic. The Rode VideoMic and VideoMic Pro are pretty common with DSLR's.

Attach one of these radio triggers to the hotshoe mount on your camera and the other the hotshoe mount of your SB-600.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508589&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+603



Then place the radio trigger and your flash onto this and fire away

http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Studio-Umbrellas-Fancierstudio-UB1/dp/B004HR0M4Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508670&sr=8-4&keywords=light+stand+umbrella

1. Nope! Put the flash into Manual mode, set the power of the flash, put it onto the camera's hotshoe, and fire away.
   
   
2. The YN-603N is a great option for off-camera wireless shooting. I've used the Canon equivalent with my 60D, and so I have one mounted onto the camera plugged in with the shutter release cord, the flash off-camera set to radio, and the second 603 in my hand as a remote shutter release. Hitting the button on the 603 will trigger both the off-camera flash as well as the camera's shutter. It makes the limited macro stuff I do much easier because then the camera shake is limited to the shutter.

> Does the camera body have a built in wireless trigger that SB-600-700-800-910 respond to?

Yes, kind of. The main on the camera does a few special preflashes that the other ones can pick up. It's kind of like if I used a flashlight to send you a message in morse code -- except they do it much, much faster.

> Or do I have to mount a flash on the camera shoe, and use a wireless transmitter built into that flash to trigger a wireless receiver in another flash?

That's an option but not necessary on the newest models. However, I still often opt to buy cheap radio triggers because it's nice not having to deal with line of sight.

> Is the Nikon wireless system in SB-XXX capable with regards to range, i.e. 100meter range or more,

No, I wouldn't say so. Maybe in a pitch black environment. The range is very dependent on how bright it is since in a bright environment the bursts of light from your camera are harder to "see."

> and is it line of sight limited, or should I buy the $39 wireless radio trigger kits from eBay?

It is line of sight limited.. kind of. In a dark place if it bounces off a wall it will still trigger your flashes. It's hit or miss and depends, again, how much ambient light there is.

> Or does Nikon sell a wireless trigger kit/CLS that takes better advantage of integrated features (i-TTL via wireless triggers)?

Nikon might, but in this case the most common thing would be to buy something like Pocket Wizards. However then you're shelling out around $150-250 per transceiver which is over $300 just for one camera/flash pair. You can easily drop a thousand dollars just getting your flashes to be wireless.. which really sucks.

> What do I miss out on with cheap eBay remote flashes?

They have very long ranges and are quite reliable so you mostly only miss out on the TTL aspect. If you're fine with setting flashes manually they're very useful. I have a set of RF-602's by Yongnuo (cheap Chinese) but you'd now want to purchase the updated RF-603. They will probably be ever so slightly less reliable than a pocket wizard set, but by less reliable I mean you may miss one shot every 200-500 photos.

On the cheap I strongly recommend the yongnuo unit. Also works as a wireless shutter release, and very well reviewed for the price.


If you've got the coin, the pocketwizards are worth it, but for just starting out the yongnuo's are a steal.

OP could also buy these triggers for which the YN560 has a receiver built in:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YW79F4

As a pair they can trigger any manual flash, but as long as you have a YN flash you only need one trigger. Saves one more piece of equipment to keep track of and carry batteries for.

You should check out these: http://amzn.com/B004YW79F4

Or alternatively just stick a piece of white card, like a business card in front of the on camera flash to bounce the light away from the subject. Also turn down the power of the flash manually. Doing both of these will prevent the on camera flash affecting the exposure, but will allow the slaves to pick up the flash. No delay is needed.

I used the same technique before I bought the triggers listed above, while they are manual control only they are a great starter trigger.

Hope that helps.

(First time poster long time lurker, made account to answer your query!)

Two pack

Most of the articles seem sponsored by other cooking pots. But this seems like a solution that an old crock pot aficionado could justify. When the articles started talking about home chelation I stopped reading... https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/

Yes, cowboystudio is one example.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412178484&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger

cowboy studio wireless trigger and maybe a pair of light stand

For a flash, these are $44 atm http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Canon/dp/B004GZLFHM/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_5

I have 3 and they are pretty reliable.

Then you can get a cheap wireless recieve kit like this
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=pd_cp_p_1

I have a DK2 and when I first got them I only used the included cloth that came with them. This soon proved to be a bad idea as it produced many small scratches that clouded the lenses.

I emailed support and they sent me new ones. I purchased lens covers which work great, but I doubt they'll work well with the fresnel lenses, we'll see.

But the other thing I got was a lens pen: http://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

And an air rocket: http://www.amazon.com/Giottos-Rocket-Blaster-Blower-Large/dp/B00017LSPI

The brush end of it is all you need 99% of the time. It's rare that you get actual smudges. It's dust that really is the problem. The brush end does a great job, and the air rocket helps when something is stuck in a corner or under the lip of the plastic or something. The other end of the lens pen is a microfiber nub that is great for getting oil off. This product is really aimed at cameras - SLRs and the like - and I've found that it produces no artifacts or scratches.

I'd get something intended to be used with a camera. There's a brush and blower in this kit to remove particles. That is what messes up lenses.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Professional-Electronics-Refillable/dp/B0080JH3YE

I recently purchased a lense cleaning kit from Amazon (here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0080JH3YE/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1) on the advice of /u/evrydayVr although I don't have a dk2 yet so I can't say how effective it is.

No

Just tell them is a fragile device, not let anyone with extra-large fake lashes use it, and clean it before every use with the the lens tissue and just a drop of water. Also, you can buy a cheap camera lenses cleaning kit ( Like this ) (if its ok for > $1400 camera lenses, it should be ok for this). check this video tutorial

I think plastics like these are just a marketing thing, made for you to make you feel you're using a brand-new-sealed-from-factory item, and you're opening it for the first time (which is true anyway, but it's a physical representation of that moment intented to relief you as a costumer) They're not made for protection at all.. well,.. maybe it protects them against dust and particles while assembly and boxing in factory, but nothing else.

PS- I think you should be more worried about the forehead pad, sweat, and ladies make up.

Yourself:

Practice in front of a mirror to see what are your best angles, expressions, etc.

​

Gear:

Put your camera on a tripod. Tether to your computer, so you can see instant results and don't have to walk all the time. Get a remote shutter.

​

Remote Shutter link

Tethering cable should already come with your camera.

The price keeps fluxuating, but says in stock the 16th with prime shipping.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B00DS7S52W/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Extension cables exist:

https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Extension-Cable-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM

You know what they say about assuming

Keep in mind that once your PSVR is all configured for the first time with your PS4, you no longer have to worry about your TV location at all, as there really is no need to have it connected to your PS4/PSVR setup anymore unless you plan on still using the TV for PS4 flat gaming with the best possible picture.

There is a 3rd party extension for the camera, but unfortunately multiple extension cables cannot be linked together. So you can only go with one extension cable for the camera.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFX1IHM/

I use an extension cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JFX1IHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but as you can see they don't know when it will be back in stock, there is also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B01M00U2CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517670666&sr=8-1&keywords=playstation+camera+extension+cable that is up for pre-order so there have been so extensions out there.

Here's one from Amazon UK https://www.amazon.co.uk/Calibur-11-220033-Camera-Extension/dp/B00JFX1IHM

And this one is coming out soon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01M00U2CI/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_1/261-8885733-4864243?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SQGW9J5V20F3AK15WM1X&dpPl=1&dpID=71ssFDm2xsL

There is a functioning camera cable on Amazon but its spendy, gives a ton of reach to the camera though. Heres a link to the cable:

Camera Extension Cable (PS4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFX1IHM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I did a test of the cable here and it worked really well:

https://youtu.be/O27MfyphN5c

The vr cable cant be extended yet but a few tricks to get extra reach:

1. Remember the processor box doesnt need to be near the ps4. You can get a longer USB cord or even just reach the stock one as far from your ps4 toward your play area as possible and this will add a few feet.
   
   
2. The camera doesnt need to be near your TV so you can face angle it a different way to try to maximize your space away from the TV.
   
   
3. Having your back almost to the TV while playing, if possible with camera position and play area, can make it seem much more roomy as you wont lose the cable length that's basically winding behind your back.
   
   I've tried everything to maximize my play space so feel free to ask me any other questions.

As far as I'm aware there is only one extension, from previous threads it was hit or miss if it worked.

Read the reviews in Amazon?


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=H2XJ1KKFJ2V8&keywords=psvr+extension+cable&qid=1554638780&s=gateway&sprefix=psvr+ext&sr=8-3

I got two clamps that will clip to furniture. I have one on a shelf, the other on a curtain rail and they work bloody perfect. Great too if you travel with them and they're very small. Definitely better than having a tripod taking up space!

Only £15 for 2!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667294&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=dslr+clamp

Had a similar problem over the summer, and my solution was these beauties: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/

Depending on what country you're in, you might still be able to get something from Amazon for tomorrow.

These work really well and give you a bit more flexibility in positioning the lighthouses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm getting this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS
Someone posted about them and said he tried them with a camera that is twice as heavy as the lighthouse and they are supporting it.

The type of stabilizer you need will depend greatly on your budget and camera size. They range in price from $20-$10k so there's no "right" one you need.

The first thing I would do is figure out how much your camera setup weighs (including the camera body, lens, battery, and any monitors/extras that you plan on having on the camera when shooting). Either weight it on a scale or find out how much each part weighs online and add. Give yourself some wiggle room with the weight limit so you don't buy a useless rig (i.e. if a stabilizer's weight range is 2-5lb, I would put 4.5lb on it at the most).

As far as what type of stabilizer to get, that's all a personal preference. Handheld monopod-type stabilizers are cheap and will get you steady shots, but you have to keep in mind that your arms will get tired very quickly.

Shoulder mounts tend to not be perfectly steady, and are usually used to mimic hand-held (where actual hand-held creates way too shaky footage). Don't buy a shoulder mount with the intent of getting steadicam-esque shots. On the plus side, they're usually cheaper than cages and are easier to use over long periods.

Cages (like the Movi or Ronin) provide excellent results but are often cost-prohibitive for somebody buying their first stabilizer. They tend to take smaller cameras and require some skill in setting them up and using them properly, but if you have the money and your camera fits, you should definitely consider one. I've used the Movi M5 a number of times and it's awesome, albeit a pain to set up and very costly.

In short, do your research and don't feel like you need to drop $5k to get a good stabilizer. If you want help picking a stabilizer for your set-up feel free to DM me and I would love to help!

I bought one on amazon for $70, it was very wobbly and not very steady. I did get good at making it steady and practicing my skills with handling the system. (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1452087283&sr=1-1&keywords=steadicam)

I just upgraded to a Glidecam HD4000 and holy crap I should have gone for this gem instead of buying the $70 version. It's amazingly stable.

Don't think that just because you get a steadicam/glidecam it will give you amazing footage instantly, it does take practice to start getting good at it.

Like people say, "buy cheap, buy again"

I got my HD4000 on Craigslist for $240 which is even less than the HD2000, if you live in a bigger city odds are their might be a Glidecam on the market. Ebay has good deals on used ones too, and the HD2000 might be within your budget depending on what camera you are using.

Hope this helps

/u/Dawens - I would avoid the [$229 Videomic "Pro"] (https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMPR-VideoMic-Rycote-Shockmount/dp/B00YAZHRZM//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with its 3.5mm unbalanced output.

For about the same price, you can get a [$229 Azden SGM250 pro XLR mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Azden-SGM-250-Professional-Powered-Microphone/dp/B00XWG2YBW//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$20.95 Hosa impedance matching cable] (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MIT156-Impedance-Transformer-XLR3F/dp/B00FC4YR58//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). That way, when you upgrade to a pro camera with XLR inputs, or want to run a long, balanced cable from a boom, you won't have to buy a new microphone.

The Azden also has better frequency response and is quieter than the Rode.

> what about microphones to clip into the subject?

As an entry level lav, I recommend the [$29 JK MIC-J 044 lav with the 3.5mm stereo output] (https://www.amazon.com/JK-Lavalier-External-Microphone-Recording/dp/B012Z698ZE//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20). A very good value for the money. Nice review [here] (https://youtu.be/RBxOLnVxg3A).

Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right mic for your needs!

I have this. It's nice, but the shock mount is a pain in the ass. Get the updated Pro R version with the Lyre mount if you can.

Yeah! It's neat. And okay, great. Just wanted to make sure you understood mics overall. When I was first hunting for a mic I ended up purchasing one of these and was super disappointing with it. Basically, my expectations were incorrect and even being 5-8 feet away from it meant I essentially had to yell. Great mic, but I was using it incorrectly.

I only have 1 hdmi as well and needed to extend my Rift so use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which works great. It's an active repeater made for VR and is not finicky about cables, use whatever ones you want. It has a mini displayport input (and hdmi, either work) so I use a dp > mini dp cable along with a usb. It's nice to have a clean/functional breakout box to plug into in my living room where I use it even though my computer is in my bedroom.

I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply

Rumor has it, this will do the trick.

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

had a similar issue with my 1080ti and believe it or not the easiest fix was to buy a htc vive link box. i tried tons of repeaters and other adapters and nothing worked. got the link box and suddenly my oculus can easily run even the cable listed here:- https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-9-vr-extension-cable-black/5706844.p?skuId=5706844 which is notorious for not working on most gpus. you can buy the link box on amazon here:- https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV but keep in mind that you will have to get the power adapter seperately. i'm using this one with no issues whatsoever:- https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/

I received this 15' displayport cable extension today and have tested it to my satisfaction that it works well (combined with the stock Pro displayport cable). I also use this 15' USB cable. If you would prefer to extend the power cord without having a giant junction visible of that big HTC wall plug to an extension cord, you can use this power plug, combined with this extender.

Still, here's the hardware:

http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-T-Mount-Adapter-Autofocus-Cameras/dp/B0002E3WRC

http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93625-Universal-1-25-inch-T-Adapter/dp/B0000665V6/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_y/180-3872360-3150301

and for really high powered viewing screw this to the t-mount adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8

The t threads are under the eye cup.


In bright sun light, this telescope will work as a 1000mm lens, but telescopes, especially cheaper ones, are not as well corrected. So it's going to have more aberrations than even cheap photographic lenses have.

Here's my revised advice, get this telescope and this adapter.

I'm not thrilled with the aperture value (f7.8 or something at 1000mm) but it does come with cheap German Equatorial mount. You can use the finder piece and the mount controls to manually track stars and planets. I believe the German Equatorial mount, if my memory serves me correctly, can be set to various angles so that you will only have to adjust one knob to track any body in the sky (as opposed to having to turn two knobs like an etch-a-sketch to track).

Long exposures are needed to photograph planets, stars, galaxies, etc. You'll want the tracking ability, even if it is done manually.

For a Cell phone, just hold it up to the eyepiece. For extra stability, you could get an eyepiece adapter. With few exceptions (newer cell phone cameras are getting sophisticated enough for long~ish exposure on bright objects), the only objects you will be able to snap will be planets and the Moon.

For a DSLR, you will need 2 components, a T-Ring which acts as a lens attachment (and you will need to find one for your specific camera brand), and a T-Adapter which will allow the camera to insert into the telescope like an eyepice. Given you are going to an actual observatory, they likely use 2" eyepieces, so a 2" T-adapter will probably be needed.

You should also make sure they are OK with you taking pictures like this. I help run a local public observatory (ie no research, just open nights for the public to look up) and we host monthly photo nights, but setting up the scope for photography requires changing the focus and if you are taking photos that means you'll be tying up any lines behind you for several minutes. On the other hand, if this is a private observatory and you don't have to worry about lines, then great. I would call ahead to make sure either way - maybe they already have the adapters you need

Basically, yes, but you'll also need a few relatively cheap things to make sure you have power and a way to mount the camera to the scope. And you can definitely go much cheaper (especially on the camera). I just had the camera prior to getting into astrophotography because I do photography as well.

To answer your question, the only other thing I purchased separately that was involved in my setup for this shot was the battery pack that powers the mount, a T-Ring, and a T-Adapter that allows me to mount my camera to the scope.

Power Tank

T-Ring

T-Adapter

Again. You can go much cheaper on the camera and can actually just use a webcam to shoot the video that you'll stack into a still. Registax is free. Autostakkert is free. And there are free photoshop alternatives. You'll also want to use this program called BackyardEOS to shoot the videos at 5x zoom (My computer was acting up for this shot, so I didn't use it this time around) but it's well worth the $30 I think I paid for it. You can get even clearer shots like this one I got a while back. The program allows you to digitally zoom in at 5x using and use only a part of the camera's sensor. Please let me know if you need any other information. I'd be glad to help. Hope this helps some!

Hello,

I'm planning on making an astrophotography setup. I've used this subreddit's guide to assemble something's, but I just wanted to check if all the items in my list are correct. I'm also confused on where to buy some items required for the setup.

Here are the list of things that I have/am going to buy.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-mounts/skywatcher-heq5-pro-synscan.html - Skywatcher HEQ5 Mount

https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-6-f-4-imaging-newtonian-optical-tube.html - AstroTech 6 inch imaging Newtonian Telescope

https://www.otelescope.com/store/product/4-backyardnikon-20-premium-edition-otl-byn-p/ - BackyardNIKON premium edition

Nikon D850 - DSLR (Already Own)

https://www.astronomics.com/t-ring-for-nikon-35mm-and-dslr-cameras.html - T-Ring for Nikon DSLR cameras

https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93625-Universal-1-25-inch-T-Adapter/dp/B0000665V6 - Universal 1.25 inch camera T-Adapter

https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-7-short-universal-dovetail-plate-for-vixen-style-mounts-black.html - ASTRO-TECH 7" SHORT UNIVERSAL DOVETAIL PLATE FOR VIXEN-STYLE MOUNTS

https://www.telescope.com/Orion-Magnificent-Mini-AutoGuider-Package/p/99631.uts?keyword=orion%20magnificent%20mini - Orion Magnificent Mini AutoGuider Package

https://www.astronomics.com/astro-tech-photo-visual-coma-corrector-field-flattener-for-fast-focal-ratio-newtonian-reflectors.html - Coma Corrector

TUBE RINGS - Don't know where to find one for my telescope!!

I would really appreciate any help on finding the missing items, and suggest additional items if I didn't include them in this list. Thank you so much for taking the time to read through this post!

Lots of people use the 8" for pics. I have one, but I don't have a good enough camera yet. From what I've read and seen, it really is just as easy as buying a t-ring and the adapter.


This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000665V6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000XMUKK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A1MX591ICBLWRE
(assuming it fits your camera)

Should be all you need. However, if you don't have one of them motorized mounts, you won't be getting the best pictures of up close stuff. For me, Jupiter leaves the scope in about 20 seconds max. Then again, I view it through my bedroom so the scope sits on carpet. And I have the springs on, so maybe that's messing with it too.


Anyway, I hope I helped. Can't wait to see some pics!


Edit: what kind of camera do you have? I'm in the market for one.

If you find a NX to a T2 mount you can attach it to pretty much any telescope using a T-adapter.

The problem with using a camera with a dob is it is very hard to use. With no tracking only planets/the moon will be valid target and even then keeping it on target can be hard.If you need more help come vist us at /r/astrophotography.

I own a Canon DSLR. Do you know if it is possible to buy an attachment so I can use the camera I already have or would I need to buy a special camera to use with a microscope?

Thanks for all of the help so far. If I could upvote you more than once, I would.

Edit: it looks like I would be able to get a T-mount for my camera and then a T-adapter maybe? Is that correct?

I did the same but the t adapter doesn't let you use any lense. I got mine on amazon for £23. I didn't use it much in the end.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0000665V6/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You generally get one of these to adapt from the telescope eyepiece tube to the "T-mount" standard (a dead simple lowest common denominator camera lens mount originally used by Tamron – basically just a threaded ring), plus a T-mount to whatever your camera takes – e.g. Nikon F mount, or Canon EF mount in the OP's case – adapter ring.

So about $15 for the telescope to T adapter and $9 for the T to EF ring.

[sorry for causing confusion --- we're still describing the same thing]

here's a better explanation -- a display behind an infinity corrected lens is basically a Reflex Sight -- see the animation on the wiki page there -- no parallax, see? Then they stick a lens array in front of that.

So:
Go buy a reflex sight like this one (for aiming telescopes) and replace the LED reticle with your LCD screen, then put a lens array in front of that, see if that works for you.

I'd strongly advise against getting a goto dob. They dont work that well and for the most part make it less likely you will use your scope.

Instead teach yourself how to star hop using:

https://www.amazon.com/Turn-Left-Orion-Hundreds-Telescope/dp/0521153972


Then mount a telrad quick finder on your scope:


https://www.amazon.com/Telrad-Finder-Sight/dp/B0000ALKAN/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502122336&sr=8-2&keywords=rigel+quickfinder


Dobs are all about setting the scope on the ground and getting to viewing quickly and easily, a cheap goto mount will just fight you in doing that.

What's your current setup? What parts comprise a "S4 on a stick?"

Because there are special followspot yokes for Source Fours. City Theatrical makes one that I think is garbage, as you NEED to thread it onto a pipe and cheseborough that to another pipe, and generally add another pipe to stabilize everything. I have also seen another kind that has no markings and they've been there longer than the house ME, so he doesn't know what brand they are. But they kind of look like this, with a clamp on top to make it easier to use them in a catwalk.

You should also have an Iris in there already.

And then some handles.

And then a telrad, which are pretty cheap because City Theatrical doesn't make them.. And I can speak from experience, having a telrad makes a huge difference for your spot ops. I have high school actors who have never done tech before run spot, and they were a hot mess before we got the telrads. But now, you would never know that opening is their third time running spot.

If you say that a 26º already works pretty well, why the need to change it?

Using source fours as spotlights is done all the time in professional places. Just because it doesn't come with a stand and say "FOLLOWSPOT" on the side of it doesn't mean it's a bad choice.

I can go over some of the math too. That telescope has a 130mm primary mirror, hence the 130 in its name. In inches that's about 5", this is also called the aperture. The maximum magnification on a very clear night is 50x your aperture. 50 x 5=250. So you don't want to go above 250 power. I looked up the focal length and it is 650mm. This is important because you divide the focal length by the mm of the eyepiece you're using to get magnification. Your telescope will come with a 10mm and a 25 mm, so 650/10= 65x and 650/25= 26x. These will be good for viewing the moon, and a decent view of the planets but not for galaxies, nebulae or star clusters. Reversing the math, if you wanted an eyepiece that gave you the full 250 magnification that you can theoretically get you'd need about a 3mm lens. 650/250=2.6.

The Svbony or similar Gold Line series is highly touted on here. Under $100 for 4 lenses that are very good you get a 6, 9, 15 and 20 mm lens. If you pair that with a 2x Barlow, which is a lens you put your other lens into that doubles its magnification, you can stretch those 4 lenses into also being 3, 4.5, 7.5 and 10 mm. So for ~$130 you can get the most out of your scope and not have to buy anything for a long time.

What I've been getting the most use out of is a Celestron zoom lens. It can go from 24mm to 8 mm by just twisting the body of it. At its lowest magnification it can't see very much of the sky, so it isn't super popular because it's hard to find what you're looking for, but when you zoom in it really opens up what you can see. If I can't find what I'm looking for I switch to a 25 mm lens with better field of vision then put the Zoom back in. The zoom is ~$70.

Lastly buy the book Turn Left at Orion. Note: Don't accidentally buy Turn Right at Orion!! This book gives you history, cool facts and will help you find hundreds of cool objects in Space. If you just cruise around without a guide you'll lose interest quick. Best advice I got for using this book is to rotate the book in your hands until it matches what you're seeing in your scope. Don't assume up is up or left is left. The book is on sale right now for a better price than I got, might want to scoop it up now. It's the current edition and just came out this year.

If I confused you with anything I can clarify!

Svbony Goldlines

2X Barlow

Celestron Zoom

Turn LEFT at Orion

An ok scope on a flimsy/shaky tripod will annoy you real fast. And a shaky equatorial mount is doubly annoying. The scope you list may be ok but their mounts are suspect.

You should leave some room in your budget for additional decent eyepieces (think plossl), a moon filter, and maybe a 2x barlow (don't go crazy with 5x.. you won't be happy). An ok zoom eyepiece may be pleasing to start.

Dobsonians have a sturdy base and are great suggestions. You may need to columnate them now and then and they can be bulky so travel is tough even sometimes getting it in and out of house/apt especially if stairs are involved.

Consider a small Maksutov such as Celestron c90 on a sturdy photo tripod. That should leave you plenty of room in your budget for accessories.

The c90 comes with erect image finder and diagonals so you can use this system during the day, too, for bird watching or whatever.. increasing its usefulness.

https://www.amazon.ca/Celestron-52268-Spotting-scope-Black/dp/B0038QYRDO/

https://www.amazon.ca/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8/

https://www.amazon.ca/Gosky-Variable-Polarizing-Telescopes-Eyepiece/dp/B010UH5SL8

https://www.amazon.ca/Celestron-Omni-2X-Barlow-Lens/dp/B00008Y0TM

edit:
Don't forget to save some budget for a solar filter such as....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXKGUS4

What is your price range? Does size of the scope matter? Do you want tracking abilities?

Some good brands would be Orion, Meade, and Celestron.

Astronomy is not necessarily about getting the best and most expensive scope. The telescope is only a tool. You need to have realistic expectations on what you're going to see. Also, you want a telescope that you will be able to use. If its too big and clunky to bring outside easily, a smaller telescope will be much more useful.

I would recommend buying a simple reflector to start off.

Here's a cheap, tabletop reflector.
Very affordable, very portable. I wouldn't go any cheaper than this.

Although, depending on how much you want to spend, you can get This tracking dobsonian. 600 bucks, 8 inch. Could be what you're looking for.

I would just hop on the bandwagon and get a classic XT8.

You also need to do some research on what kinds of eyepieces you want. Thats a whole new world you need to know, on top of getting to know telescopes.

Personally I have a classic XT8 accompanied with a Celestron 8-24mm zoom eyepiece.

After all thats done, go grab some free astronomy software, and once thats done, start exploring the skies!!!

Consider a zoom eyepiece. It offers a wide range of magnifications at an affordable price, while sacrificing some FOV. There's a decent celestron on Amazon... I have it and enjoy the convenience.

The C90 is actually pretty compact. Smaller than a lot of spotting scopes actually.

http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sMAz87iC-ok/maxresdefault.jpg

It's also only $170:

http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-52268-C90-Mak-Spotting/dp/B0038QYRDO

Add this $52 eyepiece to get all the way to 156x zoom:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007UQNV8/ref=pd_aw_sim_p_1?refRID=0014SNKCY8APY6WBWKF4

Then all you'd need is a tripod.

Appreciate the response! Those do seem like very good recommendations. I believe I have decided on this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038QYRDO/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER. I already have a mount that the poster who suggested this one said would work with it.

Think I will be adding on these two lenses as well, unless you have a better suggestion?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G4HT6I/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007UQNV8/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

​

And you're right, I know I will eventually get the "bug," and I will eventually get something that would be considered higher end, but that would be for me and me alone. This is something I want to share with people, and if I'm at a music festival and someone on LSD knocks it over, I won't be out thousands, just a couple hundred, but it would be well spent it to blow some peoples minds.

mostly indoors. a few outdoor shots that can be dubbed if needed. I was considering hooking this up to my laptop as a budget choice:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1395945806&sr=8-15&keywords=3.5+mm+boom+mic

thanks for your help!

Less than $500 for even a decent camera will be difficult. I'd suggest looking into a used Canon T3i or a new/used T2i. They may be slightly more expensive but they're the best thing you'll find around that price range (in my experience). Also because they both have interchangeable lenses you can upgrade/adapt them as you get more cash to invest.

I know less about mics although I think it may be difficult to find what your describing, especially at that price. Something like this may be what your after but I really can't say that the quality will be great and the cable will probably get in the way if you're moving around.

What I'd really suggest is to abandon the idea of on-body unless it's absolutely necessary for some reason. If you're up for doing that I'd suggest a shotgun mic (something like this would probably do just fine). The absolute best option in terms of quality and lasting value would be to buy an H4n. The disadvantage is that you'll end up having to sync your audio to the video but the advantages are that the audio quality is great, you can add better (XLR) mics in the future and you can move it around depending on where your audio source is.

I know that this isn't exactly what you're looking for but I hope it's some help anyway. If you have questions please feel free to ask :)

No problem dude.

So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AekKwgvS5K0 ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.

Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LBS52YI/ref=psdc_11974581_t3_B007534LFK . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Advanced-Broadcast-Microphone-accessories/dp/B00N39J0LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-4&keywords=shotgun+mic https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1503160247&sr=1-5&keywords=shotgun+mic . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.

Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic-Samsung/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503160499&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+light . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.

For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. http://www.masteringfilm.com/tips-for-directing-actors/ . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.

Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.

It's an omni directional mic - meaning the pickup pattern like a sphere that surrounds the microphone. The closer the subject to the microphone the better the audio.

You will probably have to place the lavalier close to the chopping in order to get a nice clear audio of that sound.

Since you were going to drop $300 on the zoom anyway, maybe also get a hypercardioid microphone (shotgun). It's pickup pattern is like a long spear, so whatever its pointed at, it will get clear audio of without getting a lot of reverb:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345246835&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone

You're going to be hard pressed to find a shotgun mic for $30 thats worth the money. The lowest end shotgun mics that are still at all useable run about $60, like this one. here. I own that one and it is a very good shotgun mic for the price, although after a lot of use it does start to pic up more background noise and looses reach.

If you want to get in close and not use a lav mic, you could use an Audio Technica shotgun mic which has a 3.5mm jack to connect to the camera. Then just find a pole or a stand to put it on.

Absolutely—I might even make a single lesson dedicated to listing different pieces of equipment that are both affordable and helpful for shooting video on DSLRs. For instance, Audio-Technica's ATR-6550: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GYPS3M/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002GYPS3M&linkCode=as2&tag=qinema-20
is an excellent and relatively cheap shotgun mic which can record directly through your min-jack port without an adapter.

I've put the class enrollment page location on the /r/FilmClass subreddit as well as the location to another, more general Cinematography course I'll be teaching. I hope it's helpful!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GYPS3M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER this mic i just bought it works great!

Have you looked into making your own?

i was looking at shoulder rigs yesterday and had the idea of maybe doing a diy rig and this is the rough list I've come up with so far.

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Couldn't you just get something like this then? https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1466753053&sr=8-6&keywords=cowboystudio

EDIT: This is a review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rhJ-m3-Qa0

Since your budget is tight, ditch the spider rig, and consider these instead of the spider rig...

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-CXS-25-Universal-Aluminum-Camera/dp/B00A4EAJAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408856359&sr=8-2&keywords=dslr+rails

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036NMQ7S/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=33867566155&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5234213955375955278&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_7g0sbnoesl_b

It's about the same price, and you could at least build off it.

This is the rig that I like to use personally

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005UF3G2Y
combine that with this
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0036NMQ7S
and your hands are free to adjust focus, settings, etc. while you shoot.

That shoulder mount appears to be about half the cost on Amazon as it is on eBay. Just FYI.

No it isn't. Yes you can.

EDIT: No idea if this is good, but it is cheap.

Interesting question. Its one I've been experimenting with for some time.

I have a manfrotto 680 monopod with a benro s4 head, so basically a video monopod minus feet. I'll choose my tripod (also benro) every time. Here's why:

1. A lightweight tripod can also be used as a monopod. Just extend one leg down.
   
   
2. You can extend two legs to get stable dolly style shots.
   
   
3. If you extend the third leg, you have....a tripod!
   
   
4. With my tripod or similar models, you can lock the head pointing up, unlock one leg, and carry the whole rig horizontally to create a makeshift steadycam.
   
   The one and only advantage I've found from using a monopod is the speed of setup. But for true run and gun I prefer to use this:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036NMQ7S/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=30934079781&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1583563968911428565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&ref=pd_sl_7dxgxvpsm7_b
   
   In the end its all personal preference, but that's my experience.

Using the viewfinder pressed to your eye, one hand on the grip and one hand on the lens is almost all you need usually. Otherwise, might be time to add more weight. A cage or a gunstock to add a fourth point of contact pushing against your chest will help a lot too. A very cheap and effective option is the classic cowboy studio shoulder rig for 30 bucks. https://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522194992&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+studio+shoulder OR if you have some budget zacuto enforcer is great https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/997525-REG/zacuto_z_der_dslr_enforcer.html and edelkrone has a great compact folding gunstock https://edelkrone.com/products/pocketrig-2

This works surprisingly well. It has some limitations though. It's cheap and plastic so you have to be carful not to break it, but it gets the job done. If you are going between handheld and tripod a lot it's a bitch because you have to take it off the entire rig and put the plate on each time.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367963672&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+studio+rig

The addition of more B-Roll will go a long way. Food, pedestrians, colors - these are all great things to use for filler or cutaways.

Absolutely, get more footage of the food. Closeups....REALLY tight shots work well in this instance.

For story, I would've liked to see the 'illegal' carts (usually found at night). Downtown or Hollywood after the clubs close are great locations. Lighting might be an issue but this will add another dimension to the overall production.

Drop the image stabilization. Early in the video, there appears to be driving in a car shot? It can be a little disorienting. There are really cheap shoulder mounts that I use when shooting. This is a relatively inexpensive option: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036NMQ7S/

You could go with the Cowboy Studio Shoulder Mount. It's 25 dollars at the moment.

Thanks.

The helpful chap that sold me the GH1 managed to find a one-hand friendly rig for me today, a very cheap $30 shoulder stabilizer from CowboyStudio (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036NMQ7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Have ordered and will test using with my street photography to see how viable it is. A good challenge for sure.

First off, that hill isn't that fast and there are no corners you need to slow down for. Second, I've done a lot of skating with Cal and Matt and have the utmost confidence in their skills. Third, I put the camera on one of these things to get a better grip and used one of these to automatically take a photo every second; so I was just pointing it and hoping for the best. Finally--this is key--I have pretty good insurance on my camera gear.

Speaking from a filmers perspective, you got a nice setup so far. However, you want to remember to keep the skater in the center of your frame, and not head or board cut.

You shouldn't do night shots unless you have a really good floodlight or something along those lines because otherwise it will not look as good as it should and its most likely more difficult for the skater.

Try not to have such big space between tricks in lines, and if you have to, speed it up a bit or add in some flatground tricks.

Your lens needs to be clean at all times, so bring a cloth to the park or something.

The music shouldn't take over the whole audio track, so use some light stuff and keep it up enough that you hear the pop of tricks.

If i were to recommend a grip, i would say the X-grip but im not sure how that works on a t3i, so google around.

On one final note, tell your friends not to scream and yell when someone lands a trick. I know you're having fun, but that ruins the shot imo.

Looks like one of these.

Budget. Budget. Budget

Do you have $200 $2,000 $5,000 $10,000?

Can't even start if we don't know how much you have to spend

There's cheap dslr platforms around the 5Dii, there's the pocket magic, black, Canon C300, the Red dragon epic. There's also cheap handicams that point and shoot decent quality.

To shoot low light low noise images like that you'd at least be looking at a 5Diii rig. They probably used at least +$5,000 of gear to shoot that video using a remote operator for those focus racks. It's pretty damn hard to nail focus from a low angle while moving so close to the ground.

You at least need a basic steady cam rig to hold the camera low to the ground steadily while walking. Since it's low to the ground you cant actually it's difficult to have someone operating the camera while it's moving.

You need an expensive sensor and lens to let a lot of clean light in.

Re-watching the video on my laptop they didn't actually need a remote operator, they pulls weren't that accurate or difficult but still shooting clean low light video takes a decent camera.

Also remember non of the audio from that track cam from the camera. That all came out of a recording studio with post production.

Realistically you probably want to get a 5DIII rig with a 24-70mm f/2.8 or f/4 IS lens that'll run you $3,300 new if you go with a 6D you'll save like ~$1,000 but loose some handy buttons but not loose any actual video quality. You can run magic lantern on the camera for focusing tools and additional video settings. And of course buying used will save you a lot of money.

You'll want to get a camera rig to hold it like one of these. You probably want a focus rig they can be cheap or expensive. Or even cheaper but you'll need a 15mm rail system.

For audio you'll probably want a shotgun mic like this

All and all it'll probably cost around $5,000 to record high quality audio and video at night on the cheap end if you use a DSLR platform. There are other options but I'm less familiar with them.

I believe it's this model. Thanks for the complement, I'm glad you enjoyed them. I think I've read a quote from that Ira Glass video before. It's an awesome point.

I know you said photography but the first $200ish thing that popped into my head was a shotgun mic for video work. The internal mic in a DSLR is garbage and it would be easy for you to know if you've seen it or not.

This is a good mic near your price range: http://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-VMP-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B004K8WPUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1333466843&sr=1-2

Rode Shotgun (if its in your price range, there are cheaper) http://amzn.to/2cqqWVA ($200+)
Takstar mic - http://amzn.to/2cqqA10 ($24) got really good reviews and claimed that it's the same manufacturer as the rode?
Recorder: H1 - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($90)
Lav: Rode Smartlav - http://amzn.to/2cqofTU ($80)
Cheaper Lav - http://amzn.to/2c0jWh6 ($18) works just as well
Trrs - Trs adaptor - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($15)

Hope this helps, check out my gear list if you have any questions!

https://medium.com/@IndiemarchFilm/wedding-season-gear-list-eda046d9749a#.rhqzcw6d9

I meant to post the pro, I wasn't aware there was a non-pro version, get the one with the gain. This one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K8WPUQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SS115

That's what I meant to post originally

I use Yongnuo radio triggers with my d5100. They are about $30 for a pair and have worked well for me. They'll let you remotely trigger the shutter, but you can also used them to sync off-camera flashes (manual only, no TTL).

If you buy two or more pair, you can both trigger the shutter and off-camera flashes.

My only complaint is that when syncing flashes, there seems to be a little delay. That little delay means the flashes don't go off soon enough and I sometimes see black bars at my sync speed (1/200th). I have to set my shutter a bit slower, at 1/160th to eliminate the black bars. But for $30 a pair, that's a minor thing.

Something to keep in mind when using it as both a shutter remote and flash sync: You can trigger your shutter just by plugging one into your camera with the short shutter cable. It doesn't need to be in the hot shoe for that. You can then put a flash in your hot shoe and use TTL. However, you can't remotely trigger flashes that way. To sync off-camera flashes, you have to have one trigger in your camera's hot shoe. You can then stack a flash on top of the trigger, but you'll lose TTL for that flash. The trigger in your hot shoe can also have the shutter cable attached, serving both as the receiver for the shutter button in your hand and also as the flash sync master transmitter.

The reason the flash sync requires one in the hot shoe is because even though it knows when you press the remote shutter button, it can't know how long it takes your camera to activate the shutter. If it were to guess wrong, the flash would go off at the wrong time and the light would fall on a closed shutter. The trigger in your hand activates the one plugged into your shutter release. The camera starts the process of taking a picture. Some (very short) time later, the camera sends a signal to the hot shoe. The trigger in the hot shoe (probably the same one that's plugged into your shutter release) senses that signal and only then transmits to the other triggers to fire the off-camera flashes, ensuring that the flashes go off at the correct time.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405975513&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+radio+trigger

Yongnuo RF-603 triggers work great for me. Although, they wont be very useful if you use your speedlites in TTL mode. It only supports speedlites in manual mode.

Get an external flash. If I'd bought one of those I likely wouldn't have had a strong urge to upgrade my two kit lenses as fast as I did. This plus these and you're set. I recommend buying rechargeable batteries, you'll need 4 AA for the flash, and 2 AAA per wireless transmitter.

How important is TTL when using a single OCF?

Basically, I'm learning to use my SB700 but don't like having the sync cable attached to my camera. I'm considering a few wireless options:

Yongnuo

or

Pocket Wizard

The key question here is that I'm still figuring things out and don't know how often I'll need/want to use my flash. If I go the cheaper route, I'm limited to only using the flash in manual mode (versus the industry standard pocket wizards). So, is flash in manual mode a disadvantage for a beginner and I should go with the pricier, but more versatile PWs? Or is TTL not crucial for beginner/intermediate work?

Thanks!

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

Ah yes, I do have a PC connector Amazon link of Yongnuo 603n. I was much too tired yesterday night to even think of that!

I'll give it a shot. Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if it works.

The best system for you is probably Nikon DSLRs. They have the best low light performance for your money in the DSLR world, and being a camera manufacturer pretty much exclusively, they have looooots of lenses.

My recommendation:

Refurb D7000 - $519. 1/320 flash sync speed, plenty good in low light, pro ergonomics, works with nikon's newer and older lenses.

Lens: 50mm f1.8G. You said portraits only, so here is your best bang for your buck lens for that. $215.

Lighting: Check out the strobist 101 lighting kit. $100ish.

Flash: YN 565 + radio triggers. $150ish.

With a memory card and whatnot, that comes to around $1000 and you have a great portrait setup. But, you're limited to one focal length (albeit a very useful one). Here are some tips if you wanna push it into the $1000-2000 range:


Nikon 80-200 f2.8D - crazy bang for your buck.

Sigma 18-35 f1.8 - the best wide/normal zoom lens for aps-c cameras. The quality out of it is nothing short of astounding.

85mm f1.8G. You want shallow depth of field? You've got it.

I've played with an SB800 and an SB900 with the camera (D7100) in commander mode. They work fine in a room where the light will reflect a bit, and they're ok behind white umbrellas, but I wouldn't push the issue much further than that.

For a mid-level solution, check out [These Guys.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4) They work on RF so you don't have to rely on line-of-sight. They're also pretty cheap, and as an added bonus can work as a wireless shutter release. I'm waiting to get paid, and then I'm gonna order a pair of them to play with, eventually I'd like 2 pair (you need 3 to trigger 2 flash heads, and one extra never hurt anyone.) But I want to make sure they're going to work properly first. The only downside to these is that they don't do TTL, so you have to dial the flash power in manually, which doesn't matter to most people anyway.

Didn't realize the IV had a radio transmitter in the first place. Might just go with the 560 III, and I actually wanted to use a manual flash, not TLL. Are there any wireless triggers I could buy for the flash? I saw a few but didn't know if I should drop on any of them or not, specifically this one Thanks for the help! Is there anything else you recommend or have an input on before I go off and purchase it?

Yes it did! Anything measuring less than 5mg/dL is considered normal so there was no cause for alarm. I too fell down the rabbit hole of the Internet research into the dangers of lead and was convinced a single molecule of lead was going to be the end of the world if she was exposed to it.

The consensus I came to in the end was, as long as no one is eating the paint chips or being repeatedly exposed to lead dust, it's nothing to be too concerned about.

I haven't heard anything about a legal obligation to disclose, I just used This once to verify lead was present, and then again once clean up was complete to make sure I didn't miss any dust.

Looks to be from the Robinson Ransbottom Company. The 5 represents the capacity in quarts, I think:

https://www.google.com/search?q=crock+crown+5&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS811US811&oq=crock+crown+5&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l4.4663j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I couldn't find anything mentioning that company and concerns about lead, and based on that and what I know of pottery and glazes (I'm a hobbyist), I wouldn't be concerned.

However, if you want to be extra sure, you can get a lead testing kit for about $10 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/ref=sr_1_7?gclid=CjwKCAjw-vjqBRA6EiwAe8TCk4XisvdeZKRkUXSNlfYQg2jHp8Su3XHi9HhZ_uZmCLnOjhHvmf84iBoCVa4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=241937823331&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9013189&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12205062003412946617&hvtargid=kwd-7215595241&hydadcr=24661_10400816&keywords=lead+check+kit&qid=1566501420&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I think I can partially answer this! Anyone who has more information please add, or if I say something incorrect please correct me.

What I have found, is you can buy a relatively cheap test on amazon, basically you should strip the seasoning off your pan and use the test, let it sit for 24 hours (or whatever the test says) and it will have instructions on what the results mean. One post I came across mentioned the test itself took away the seasoning on the pan during the process, but, I'm not sure if that's a normal practice or just the test that user used.

Here is a link to a test kit I have found that others have recommended. The first one is an 8 count while the second link is a 2 count which is a bit cheaper.

• https://www.amazon.com/3M-LC-8S10C-LeadCheck-Swabs-Count/dp/B00QK6ZASU/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=3M+Lead+Check+Swab&qid=1550345522&s=gateway&sr=8-7
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=3M+Lead+Check+Swab&qid=1550349894&s=gateway&sr=8-4
  
  I found one post on here that stated the tests may not range properly for cast irons, If I can find it again I will link it. It's something that added to my confusion but, did add an interesting twist on testing pans.
  
  
• Here is the link, info provided by /u/Tergi https://www.reddit.com/r/castiron/comments/6ohe8h/some_basic_info_on_lead_testing_i_found/
  
  
  Edit: added a link

After we lost a set of family pictures (and having to pull teeth to get another set) to crappy, non-responsive mommytographers after our second was born, I decided to finally get a real camera and learn some photography basics. We've got our third on the way now, so I'm starting to evaluate the kit I've acquired over the last few years in light of this.
If you're looking to get a flash, just grab the cheap AmazonBasics manual one and bounce it off the ceiling behind you; you'll get 80%+ of the utility of the flash for $30, adding the Cowboy Studio radio trigger gets your flash off camera for cheap as well. Regardless, learning how to use flash is another skill to research (the Strobist is a great resource) and takes a ton of practice. However, babies are slow enough that you should be just fine bumping your ISO a bit and shooting your 20mm wide open.
Really, though, I'll echo what other posters have said: knowledge beats throwing money at kit. What you have is plenty sufficient for good pictures, and buying more kit will barely move picture quality if you don't add knowledge. Practice with mom, practice with a doll, look at pictures of babies, etc. In addition, learn to post-process. Your first attempts will suck, but shoot RAW and practice. You're better off spending $150 on good PP software than another lens, but you can still make do just fine with open source software.
 
We have a similar setup: EM10m2, 14-42 kit, 25mm f/1.8, 40-150 f/4-5.6, 7.5mm f/3.5 fisheye, as well as a smattering of old adapted lenses (most useful is the 50mm f/1.7 that fills the classic "portraiture" role)

Alright, so lets say I get the Yongnuo YN-560 III,

How can I find out which transmitters work with it?

Amazon is recommending this

So, I can have a remote in my hand, a transmitter on the camera, and the flash elsewhere. I hit the remote, it triggers the flash and the camera?

Get more level with the object, and throw in some catch-lights. As for keeping the background true black, you can place a piece of flat cardboard on the end of each light box to discourage light from going to the side instead of just straight out. We call them flags, but I like to call them blinders. Call them anything you like, it's your studio.

Lastly, invest the best you can with two [Yongnuo flashes] (http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-560-Standard-Shoe-Flash/dp/B004GZNBH4/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171284&sr=1-16) and a [Cowboy Studio radio transmitter set] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171336&sr=1-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger).

I have the flashes I linked to and they are fabulous - been through a lot with them and they are still going strong. Yongnuo has a ton of different types of flashes, so you have a plethora to choose from depending on what you're looking for.

Lastly, should you be into the flash option, I would say you can save yourself the trouble of outfitting them both with transmitters and just have one with the transmitter and one on S (slave) mode.

This: (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415031310&sr=8-2&keywords=cowboy+studio)

I picked up 2 of these flashes and this wireless trigger, and this(or similar) set of reflective umbrellas and stands. All that stuff is pretty universal and should work on most cameras.

It's nothing fancy, but it's less than $200 for the whole setup and it gets great results. I use the same stuff for portrait work.

The Tokina lens looks great, but unfortunately it's designed for a crop sensor. I can put it on my full frame camera, but it's going to leave me with a big black circle around all of my pictures.

Here is a cheap setup I put together. Fire away!

Triggers = $29.00

Speedlights 2 @ $80.00 = $160.00

4 Umbrellas - Tripods - Flashmounts - Carrying Case = $70

Total = $258.94

Seriously, get yourself a Yongnuo. They're like, $40, and functionally similar to any branded speedlight. A demo pack of stage gels to slide over the strobe, maybe even a cheap as chips speedlight trigger, and you're set up for about 90% of speedlight work for less than a quarter of the price of an actual Nikon speedlight alone.

There's literally no reason to not go for it, and it opens up your shooting a lot.

Do you want a RF trigger or to run it off your camera via a flash-based system?

EDIT:

Looks like the "cheap" part is going to require you to get an RF trigger and run it manually. You can get a few different kinds of manual off-camera flash for under $40, but a $60 Neewer TT860 will work great manually and you can use it with TTL on the camera as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Speedlite-Camera-High-Speed-Cameras/dp/B00E3K94T6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084596&sr=8-4&keywords=E-TTL+flash

A Cowboystudio dual trigger is going to run you $27 and works pretty darn well. Just keep stuffing dollar tree AAAs.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084639&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger

I got [these] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369691507&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+flash+trigger) which are just some what cheap flash triggers. One part goes on the hot shoe of the camera and the other one or two receivers have their own hot shoe that you put flashes onto.

Try it in a brightly lit room so you can see all the specks clearly. You can use a microfiber cloth as long as it is clean and you're gentle. I find [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1900-Rocket-Blaster-Large/dp/B00017LSPI/ref=sr_1_1?t=slickdeals&tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=SwvPSKTzEeOh_QpiylmiyA0_6sKt3_0_0_0&s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1387766039&sr=1-1&keywords=giottos+rocket+large) to be very helpful. Blows air super hard compared to those little bulb blowers, I was really surprised when I got one. I usually use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=dp_ob_title_ce) for the pesky spots. I don't think the amount of dust you have really matters unless you're planning on making prints though.

I would get something like this for your lenses!

https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

Only $8. I use them all the time for rifle scopes and camera lenses.

A microfibre cloth works well, or as an alternative I occasionally use a Lens Pen (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lenspen-NLP1-New-Original%C3%82/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459347858&sr=8-2&keywords=lenspen) which cleans them well, though it was bought for my DSLR rather than specifically for the Gear VR.

https://www.amazon.ca/LENSPEN-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

OR JUST USE A LENS PEN LIKE MOST SANE PEOPLE. https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

LensPen NLP-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M1i4CbDA4R8MP

👍

What about a kit like this one? Back in the day, I used a combo brush/air blaster and never had an issue with it scratching my camera lenses. I'm not sure I'd trust the included tissues or microfiber cloths, but you could and let us know how they work. ;)

One suggestion

• FotoTech RC-6 IR Wireless Shutter Release Remote For Canon EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 6D, EOS 7D, EOS 70D, EOS 60Da, EOS 60D, EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 5D Mark II, SL1, T5i, T4i, T3i, T2i, T1i, XSi, XT, XTi Digital SLRS(Replaces Canon RC-5 RC-6) with FotoTech Velvet Bag (1 PC)
  
  
• Professional Cleaning Kit for DSLR Cameras and Sensitive Electronics (Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Telescopes and Binoculars) - Includes: Lens Cleaning Pen System + High Quality Lens Brush + Air Blower Cleaner + 50 Sheets Lens Tissue Paper + Handy Empty Spray Bottle + 3 Premium MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths
  
  
• Neewer Shutter Release Remote Control RS-60E3 Replacement for Canon EOS 650D/600D/550D/500D/1000D/450D/400D/350D/300D/100D/700D (Rebel T4i, Rebel, Rebel XT, Rebel XTi, Rebel XSi, Rebel XS, Rebel T1i, Rebel T2i, Rebel T3i) Canon EOS 60D Samsung GX-20/GX-10/GX-1L GX-1S Pentax K20D/K200D/K10D/K100D Super/K100D/K110D/ ist Ds2 / ist D / ist Ds / ist / *ist DL
  
  Camera things always have long ass names.
  
  The newest Avatar comic would be badass <3
  
  
  
  

Almost this exact kit. Just so I'm prepared when it inevitably gets dirty along the way. Really lightweight and compact too.

Nope because the lens 55-200 isn't the VR one.

https://amzn.com/B00PCM0XAI - Camera and 18-55 lens - 396.95

https://amzn.com/B013FB9ZT2 - the 55-200 lens - 139.95

https://amzn.com/B0080JH3YE - cleaning kit - 8.99

https://amzn.com/B00M02R8CE - extra batteries - 22.49

https://amzn.com/B014W1ZKX4 - Memory cardx2 - 33.98

https://amzn.com/B0062W02C6 - Camera Strap - 14.99


All of that comes to 617.35 and is prime eligible and are good products you are not going to trash in 3 days. Get things like a tripod, and filters when you need them. A good tripod will run you at least $100 for a basic, $200-300 for a good one.

You should check if it has a time delay feature. If so you can set it, tell it to take say 10 pictures and then see the results. On my Nikon, I usually use time+8 sec to review. This is IMO, the best way to do shots, as it introduces minimal wiggle into it, even compared to a timer, and makes better use of time. (Ie, you can set it at 30 sec, if you don't want to see the image, though I find that the 38 sec, so you can see if something isn't going right is good.)

An IR shutter release is also very good. I actually have one on my phone (LG V20, they were popular on Android phones for a while, when I got this one, it was one of few that had it)

Here's one example, not sure if it'll work with your camera: https://smile.amazon.com/Canon-RC-6-Wireless-Controller-Digital/dp/B0037NX6JY

Here's another for $9: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/

(Heh, for once the Nikon version ($6) isn't more expensive than something for a Canon!)

I have a wired release, but I think the IR if your camera supports it, is better, because then you don't have the cable at all transmitting vibrations.

I actually took a similar shot, testing out a tracking motor on my 127EQ last night, while one of my main rigs was automatically running through my target list. (Ekos and Kstars + OnStep is a wonderful combination. Aside from an inadvertent design issue, a cable got caught on the focuser, which pulled it loose, I only touched it to change filters, and focus it.) It looked very similar to yours, aside from some streaking due to apparently being wrong on timing, but such is life, and that can be fixed.

Maybe a remote shooter would help you? You'd carry a physical reminder to shoot, and they are reasonably cheap.

8 Bucks

I will be in the path of totality for the solar eclipse and would like to photograph the stages of the eclipse. I looked up solar filters for my camera and the cheapest I could find was around US$70, which is far out of my price range (I was hoping to spend no more than $30.) Would something like this sheet work, if I affix it to my camera somehow? https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Filter-Telescopes-Binoculars-Cameras/dp/B00DS7S52W

I have a Canon Powershot SX400 IS for reference. I am not a huge fan of this camera but I was able to get some beautiful, high res images of the lunar eclipse with it. Also, any tips on photographing a solar eclipse are very welcome as I am by no means a photographer!

You said you live in the Berkshires, which google says is in Massachusetts, there's a partial solar eclipse which will be visible in your area on August 21 at around 1:30pm and ends at around 4:00.

You can buy a solar filter. Here's a link for one that should cover the aperture.

https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Filter-Telescopes-Binoculars-Cameras/dp/B00DS7S52W

Be very careful when looking at the Sun, make sure there are no holes in the filter by holding it up and making sure no bright points peek through. Cover up the aperture securely. You might have to aim it by eye and making adjustments with the hand control but use a low power eyepiece and I think it won't be too much trouble.

Set your telescope to tracking Solar, and have a great couple of hours!

Glad you're loving the telescope, I've had the same one for almost a year and I absolutely love it. I'd recommend you get rechargeable batteries because in my experience, it uses them up like crazy, or maybe I just stay out at night for too long. :)

Also, you could buy a camera to attach to it. Decent ones are a few hundred dollars, I'm not sure which would be best for you. It depends on the objects you'd want to photograph.

Anyway, Jupiter and Saturn will be pretty high up in the night sky for the next few months, so you could see those. Although for the next few days the Moon might create a problem.

I'm confused...I've been trying to do my own homework and figure out what filter I need but I'm lost...

I have a Nikon D3100 and I plan to shoot the eclipse with a 55-200 kit lens. Would anyone be kind enough to link me a filter that would be sufficient? Also, it might look a little bootleg but could I get some of the solar filter sheet material and rubber-band it to the lens?

Anybody know where/if I can find some solar film to make a filter for my telescope? Something like this

If you've already got the ring, you can get an 8x8 sheet from Amazon for $47 and just cut it.

Here ya go!

I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS7S52W

At this point it's a bit of a "good luck getting them" thing it seems as nearly everything is out of stock or absurdly priced.

I have this one and it works great

They have a cable on Amazon, I bought one, but have yet to need to use it. It has mostly "expensive but works" reviews.

Camera Extension Cable (PS4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XfoADbT2DS41H

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Calibur-11-220033-Camera-Extension/dp/B00JFX1IHM

There is a sony original extension cable for ps4 camera although pricey. 2meters for 30 eur, basically 40 usd for 6 feet.

Edit: https://www.amazon.de/Calibur-11-Verlängerungskabel-für-PS4-Kamera/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541842542&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=camera+extension+playstation&dpPl=1&dpID=41ExHgLG8tL&ref=plSrch

It’s more than enough space for beat saber. Shit I could play sairento with this space ( sairento is awesome )

You should put the camera above the bed if possible. And play facing the headrest of the bed with your back turned to the tv ( this way you won’t hit the tv by accident) If you end up stepping to close you will feel the bed with your leg. You can also lean in for extra distance in melee games.

Remember there are extension cables for the camera. Like reaaaaaally long ones.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=asc_df_B00JFX1IHM/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310511174329&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9357917375243377599&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006565&hvtargid=pla-349592476443&psc=1


Or the psvr and PS4 don’t have to be plugged to tv at all. You can put them anywhere.

That’s if you want to stand of course. If you are ok playing sitting it’s much easier to play in a small space and you don’t have to have the camera high.

Putting the camera on the tv ( stand is included with all psvrs ) and sitting on the bed will be fine for Skyrim or borderlands or anything really. I know people who have less space and they made it work.

I just got one today and it works just as you'd expect.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JFX1IHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The tripods I have purchased extend up to 2M (78") are being sold as a pair for £18.88: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00899801A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

I purchased two of these 1/4" tripod ball brackets for £6.99 each: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Eggsnow-Tripod-Bracket-Holder-Ballhead/dp/B00L23XN9O/ref=sr_1_6?s=photo&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1456881505&sr=1-6&keywords=1%2F4%22+tripod+ball

Total cost: £32.86

While I was looking I also saw these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Multi-Function-Spring-Clamp-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456947171&sr=8-4&keywords=camera+1%2F4%22+ball

Currently £4.81 each, and basically bulldog clips with a standard camera ball joint attached to them.

I picked up two of these clamps for my living room as more of a temporary mount. Planning on clamping them to the curtain pole, wall light or maybe on a door. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459112857&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41o38CfsL6L&ref=plSrch

Yea, I have one of the smallest gorillapods and used to use it for mounting a lighthouse. Obviously if you can get one of the legs wrapped around something then so much the better.

But if its going to become a common thing, get these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They happily clip onto shelves, doors, curtain rails etc and provide a good grip, I have no fear of them falling.

I've found mounting on a full bookcase (filled with books) to be just as reliable as wall mounting. So long as it is weighted down it will be fine.

Having said that I use spring clips (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ), which may be more secure with bookcases than a gorilla pod.

Chances are you'll want to angle them down for optimal coverage. You can mount them directly into concrete/brick. Just drill with a masonry bit and use anchors.

However, as another user pointed out if you are putting up shelves and they are wood you could just attach the mounting bracket right to the shelving or purchase a clamp mount like this, this or this. The bolt size is a 1/4 20 which is the standard for consumer cameras tripod mounts so you can find tons of mounting options out there.

If you search a bit you can find tons of mounting alternative threads like this.

I have a popcorn ceiling, so I have a set of these with them clamped to the pole via this.

https://www.amazon.com/Smatree-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Session/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MWNYGUS&pd_rd_r=GR47GAVWSVA19SYKJRSH&pd_rd_w=YMBhq&pd_rd_wg=kDVRo&psc=1&refRID=GR47GAVWSVA19SYKJRSH

I got a couple of these for my sensors to clamp onto the shelves. Very sturdy and infinitely adjustable. Just unscrew the go-pro mount and there is a standard 1/4" tripod/camera mount.

https://www.amazon.com/Smatree-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Session/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505394334&sr=1-3&keywords=flexible+camera+clamp

Duct tape will slip over time and temperature and will also leave a sticky mess.

These aren't suction cup mounts, but they're what I use. Smatree Adjustable Jaws Flex Clamp

You'll notice the Amazon page says there is a newer version of the item available, but it's a suction cup mount - I wouldn't trust suction cups myself, however if you require suction cups (because the clamps won't work for you), the newer version might be what you're looking for.

Mentioned it before, but this is what I'm going with: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS

If it can hold a 680g camera still enough for a long exposure it should hold a 320g Lighthouse no problem.

I bought two of these adjustable gopro mounts. One grabs the top edge of a dresser, the other grabs the upper shelf of my computer desk. Lighthouse easily screws into the top. Very solid/stiff build. This is a good option if you don't want to drill and have places to clamp them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MWNYGUS

I use this to mount on my monitor. Mine is a 55" so I needed a little longer to reach from the monitor mount to about the top rim. Though you could always use extra height of a gooseneck being so low with those monitors anyhow.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can even settle for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469155114&sr=8-1&keywords=steadycam

I used the above for corporate events when I filmed some b-roll footage. Worked great. Setting it up properly is key though.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473713532&sr=8-2&keywords=neewer+glidecam

+1 - Used this with my 7D mk1 and a 10-18mm. It worked well for 80 bucks. My camera was too heavy for it and what I did was buy more weights to put on the bottom. After getting it balanced it was pretty good. But unfortunately the bolts that adjust the balance seem to back out or not hold super snug, I had to adjust about every 45 minutes or I got sway to one side or the other. Then again, my camera was above the weight rating basically.

A smaller camera and im sure this would be a GREAT option. Hope this gives you some insight.

I have the one listed below, it take a bunch of practice but you can get some very smooth shots.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminium-centimeters-Stabilizer-kilograms/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1541695145&sr=1-3&keywords=glidecam

I got https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1492067270&sr=8-5&keywords=steadycam and i find it pretty good to handle but a used glidecam would be also a good option in my opinion.

Hey! You got some pretty cool shots here! I have a couple recommendations:

Depending on what you're shooting video with, it looks kind of like you shot a lot of the video at a faster shutterspeed and the video at 60 frames per second. With a few exceptions, it generally looks better/more natural to the human eye if you shoot in 30 or 24 frames per second and as a rule of thumb double that for your shutterspeed. So 30fps =1/60 and 24 fps = 1/50. Unless you have a reason to shoot outside of one of those two that's a good default. 60fps is also pretty good for slowing down footage for a subtle slo-mo if that's what you chose to shoot natively, for a travel video like this, that could be pretty cool.

Also, some of your shots are pretty shaky, I would advise for stuff like this to get a handheld stabilizer like this one or if you can't do that, the stabilizing software within the editing suite you're using (and preferably, do BOTH of those things for really radical, smooth shots).

You'd be surprised how much better your footage will look doing just those two things! :) keep making stuff like this friend!!

I've never bought from this company but for that price, I'd highly recommend buying a Neewer stabilizer: http://amzn.to/2scPc8f I was actually able to get it for around $60 (just watch the Amazon page for price drops).

It's not quite as nice as a Glidecam but it's absolutely worth the $$. Good build quality, almost all metal (the knobs are plastic).

I'm no expert when it comes to DSLR's, but as someone who started with a 700D then moved up to a 70D after three years learning the basics, go for the 70D first. The auto-focus is phenomenally better, higher megapixel count and wifi connectivity. In terms of quality they're all pretty much the same and a beginner such as yourself wouldn't really be able to notice many of the main differences, but if you're going to throw some cash at a starting line I'd make sure you're in the perfect place rather than wanting to upgrade later down the road. :)

Another pointer from my experience would be to get a variety of glass, best quality you can afford. It doesn't really matter which camera you go with when you're starting out if you have some decent lenses to mix up your shots. Get yourself a wide angle, a prime and a zoom; 10-18mm, 50mm/35mm & 75-300mm. That's your starter kit, then upgrade to better quality lenses and cameras as you go - worth noting that the ones I linked are all the lowest quality (except the 35mm) considering you're probably on a tight budget, but you'll still get some sweet footage. It simply means you'll be able to get a wider variety of shots and you'll be prepared for most occasions - the beautiful city skyline scene, the crispy portrait with a bokehed out background, and the "Oh! There's a deer 50ft away! Let's capture it on video rather than running up to it and being kicked in the balls!".

One other thing that might be worth mentioning is that I always carry a point-and-shoot with me. My choice is the Sony RX100 IV - shoots in 4k, incredible slow motion (up to 1000fps), slog2 recording (higher dynamic range to make your scenes look incredible after colour grading), no hassle with interchangeable lenses and in my opinion is generally more convenient than lugging a DSLR around with you when you're on holiday somewhere.

Throw me a message if you have any questions, or just leave a reply and I'll check it when I can. Here're a few video samples for you to compare your possibilities: Canon 70D Auto-Focus, Sony RX100 IV Sample.


EDIT: Fixed up some grammar & wanted to throw you a few accessories incase you hadn't thought that far ahead:
• Gorillapod: Your trusty ol' wrap-around-a-tree tripod. Way more versatile than your traditional kit and easier to travel with.
• Røde Shotgun Microphone: The best quality microphone you're going to be able to find for the price. Canon's default mic sucks balls, so grab one of those if you run with the DSLR.
• Class 10, 64GB SD Card: If you decide to grab the Sony RX100 IV, you'll want one of these to shoot in 4K otherwise your camera will just give up after a few seconds. If you run with the Canon, grab this anyway for faster transfer speeds, but it's really not necessary.

Thanks man! For audio I use the Rode VideoMic Pro.

I highly recommending spending a few bills on this mic or a similar Sennheiser if you are doing videos like this. Audio is half your content unless you're just making montages with music!

Hi /u/nerdress -

The Rode Videomic Pro is a pretty good mic but the t3i is really, really bad for audio no matter how good the microphone. I'd strongly suggest getting an external recorder like the H4N or, at the very minimum, a H1N. You may want to pair it with a XLR shotgun mic like this if you can find the $$$.

A tripod is something that can last for many years, but the one you linked to is really bottom of the barrel. This is something I'd suggest investing a little more money into, you are going to want a universal fluid head specifically if you plan on doing video work semi-regularly. I'd get a semi-compact Manfrotto tripod like that one, you won't regret it.

Lastly, do you plan on using the kit lens? I'd suggest grabbing the famous nifty fifty. It's a legend for many reasons (super sharp, great lowlight, durable as can be).

Also you are going to want to get this battery grip for the t3i if you don't have one already. I remember when I shot on a t3i I purchased that out of whim, and I'm pretty sure I never took it off for 3+ years. It not only extends your battery, but it makes the camera much more comfortable to hold.

Hope some of this helps, sounds like you'll be in good shape! Remember, audio is just as important as video, so it's smart to invest in that type of gear.

This one? http://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-Compact-VMP-Microphone/dp/B004K8WPUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450064740&sr=8-1&keywords=rode+videomic+pro

and will it work with Nikon D3200?

http://www.rodemic.com/mics/videomicpro

I'm in the UK and presume you guys are in the US so I'm not sure where would be cheapest. Here is is on Amazon

I've been looking at getting this mic but just haven't pulled the trigger on getting it, or needed it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K8WPUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1C3WEQOMQC78G&coliid=I3KOLE4UH5M9GA

A short on-camera shotgun like the Rode VideoMic Pro works best in an open environment (e.g. outdoors). When used indoors, it is susceptible to echo from audio bouncing around the room.

Bringing the mic closer to the source (i.e. the interviewee) will help in any environment.

You can use a boom pole with a shotgun mic to position the mic closer to the source if you have another person who can handle sound.

A lav mic is another way to position the mic close to the source for optimal quality. The Audio-Technica ATR-3350 lav mic suggested by u/reddit is an affordable option if you're just starting out.

The main issue with recording audio directly to the camera is that the preamps on most DSLRs are not high quality. It can definitely be usable though if you set the camera's audio level as low as possible and feed it a strong audio signal.

A good external recorder will have better preamps, gain control, limiters, etc. which are all useful tools in recording usable audio. The main downside is that you need to manage separate audio files for every clip and sync them up with the video in post. This can often be automated using software like PluralEyes, but it's not 100% bulletproof and it adds another step in your post-production workflow.

I don't use 3.5mm myself but there are a few options you could look into: Azden, Sennheiser, and Rode.

Again, the 3.5mm jack has the worst preamp so you will be getting extremely weak signals with any of those mics and, even with adjusted gain, you're going to have to deal with a lot of noise. That's just from my experience testing with the BMPCC 4K.

One is a microphone and one is a recorder. There is a difference.

You'll have to decide what you need it for. Speeches from a distance? Best use is a shotgun mic. Recording outside? Best use is a shotgun mic (wind, planes, cars, etc -- but get one of these).

Interviews? Cardioid or lavalier. Room tone? Cardioid.

I personally think the Rode VideoMic Pro shotgun mic will be fine for vlogs and interviews, and you can also shoot outside and from a distance. You should be able to plug it directly into your Canon, which makes things easier in post because with an external recorder, you have to sync it post (not that hard, but still). You can mount it to the camera's hot shoe or get a boom pole stand. Make sure you get the Pro and not the Go.

You can always buy the Zoom later and hook the Rode VMP up to that, but since you're doing basic stuff I don't think it'll be that necessary.

Ideally, you'll have three mics: shotgun, cardioid and lavalier along with a sound mixer/recorder. But that obviously comes with a price: $$$.

• http://amzn.to/2fxqVRh - lav mic
  
• http://amzn.to/2fxq9Ud - recorder for lav mic (better than in camera)
  
• http://amzn.to/2fCOqXK - solid cheap tripod
  
• http://amzn.to/2eCmimC - on camera audio solution
  
  You should absolutely light subjects if you can, that is really the only thing that sets amateurs apart from pro's these days.

TTL can be nice in certain situations depending on what he's shooting, but yeah, a ~$30 price drop per transceiver for losing TTL is significant.

Hey OP: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

I want to get a lighting set up for a home studio. I was going to get some youngnuo flashes from amazon. However, how do I find a set of 1 trigger and 3 receivers for a 3 point light set up?

In this amazon pckg it looks like I only have one set. are they all synced to the same frequency?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z


Any tutorials good tutorials for these flashes? I been looking but wound up with 1hr vids where the photogapher talks 90% about how cool he is and 10% of how to use the product.

I have a speedlite and just gave up trying to use it last summer, because it was so hard to use. The power was so strong. I tried one of those caps to diffuse but it seemed futile

If lenses are out, then what about light?

Get a flash and some radio triggers, it'll change the way you do things.

I tried a similar thing with two sets of Cactus triggers - it didn't work. Dealing with the poor quality cheapo triggers got to be a pain, especially if one part of a set died.

I ended up buying these transceivers, which are freaking awesome. I get ~100yd range out of them, and they also work as a remote cable release.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CIRTH4/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details

is what i have now, and

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_b

is what i was gonna look into getting. but someone below said he uses something that is almost as just as cheap so maybe these might work? what do you think?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334613115&sr=8-4

I found them on Amazon. $30 is a fine price, but I'm getting 2 pieces, so that's my camera and one flash, correct? If I pick up a second flash (SB-28 or another recommendation), I'd need another set-of-two RF-603's, correct?

I don't really know whether ones better than the other. I owned a D40 but I've never used a D70 nor really looked at them.

You can do a quick comparison here - http://snapsort.com/compare/Nikon_D40-vs-Nikon_D70

But either way, you are better investing in lenses rather than the body. So I would say get whatever one is cheapest so you have more money for a good lens.

I'm not really sure what to recommend in terms of continuous lighting as everything cheap I've used has always sucked but you could pick up a Yongnuo flash. The set up with a flash would probably be about £75 (There iwll be cheapest places for some of this stuff).

This might be a bit over kill to begin with but some links anyway just in case:

flash and triggers:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-560-II-ELECTRONIC-SPEEDLIGHT/dp/B009APY9TO/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

Stand, bracket and umbrella:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photography-Light-professional-studio-photolamps/dp/B0011363NS/ref=pd_bxgy_ph_img_z

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-Shoe-Umbrella-Light-Stand-Holder-Bracket-Mount-B-/390442523341?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item5ae8301acd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33-Studio-Flash-Translucent-White-Diffuser-Umbrella-/190507468777?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item2c5b2147e9

The Yongnuo RF-603 (sold in pairs) is a dual mode transceiver that you can also use as a remote flash trigger. It's cheaper than the official Nikon remote solution, more flexible and I use mine a couple of times a month.

When you're using it in remote trigger mode, the setup looks something like this - and the button on the transceiver not connected to the camera will fire the shutter (it's dual-mode, so a half-press will focus just like your camera's shutter button, but you probably want to focus first.)

Note that there are several different retail packages of the RF-603 that include different cables for different lines of cameras. Some kits are for cameras with the port on the side vs 10-pin connector on the front - although the transceivers themselves are identical.

If you want to go really fancy, there are inexpensive laser triggers that can help you catch really fast-moving targets, but I have no experience using or setting up one of those.

This should be a better option for 4 triggers. You might need to check D3300's compatibility with these triggers. But I don't see why they wouldn't work for you. I got a D3100 and these work perfect on it.

Watch the video review, it is worth it.

That's great info, thanks very, very much. This is starting to take some (admittedly amorphous) shape in my brain.

Would these Yongnuo YN-622N Transceivers suffer from the radio limitation you describe (RF I presume)?

Or were you referring to the less expensive kind such as these?

ebay has an article about the different methods here (along with pros and cons) and if you look on amazon there's bunches of choices for lead swab tests, here's one

I work in plumbing and HVAC so I keep a few of these around anyway but it's not really a common household item.

im sorry to hear that man.. i wish the mods of the sub would get some morals and remove them from the list. especially when they are telling new comers to the sub to check the recommended list..

if you want you could always test them for lead to make sure before you toss them. but i can say with a pretty high level of confidence and with a blind guess that they do contain lead.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG

You can buy kits like this online, or probably at your local hardware store.

Awesome find! But, do not forget to check for lead!! It's so quick and easy, but could seriously save your life. https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top is an example one, make sure you get it from a reputable brand.

In all likelihood the lighter color is closer to bare wood, and the darker color is either paint or something like gel stain.

Are you merely trying to strip the trim in order to refinish it? Or do you have something else in mind? "Redo" is a bit vague.

If you are trying to strip previously painted finish grade millwork back to the original surface in order to re-stain and refinish you'll be doing a fair amount of hand sanding, as well as using chemical strippers and perhaps infrared radiant heat strippers with gentle scrapping. Before proceeding it's wise to take a couple of lead tests from the finish to ensure that you won't be contaminating your home with lead dust.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/

https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480281325&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+leadcheck

They are lead test swabs. I only have american links, but here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051VARFG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_OzJODb499YY3W

Buy a kit and do it yourself. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/136-9950079-6685424?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051VARFG&pd_rd_r=b48c5d6e-dd34-4801-9b44-4accf6e5313c&pd_rd_w=83Zcw&pd_rd_wg=XQszO&pf_rd_p=9926bb69-42b9-46e4-b788-f665992e326d&pf_rd_r=V3BV6HK5GWAW00CM4G2D&psc=1&refRID=V3BV6HK5GWAW00CM4G2D

LeadCheck

You can probably find them local for cheaper. Lowe's often carries them if you have one in your area.

One time? Short duration? Probably very little. I'm also assuming you're not a child or work in construction. The real danger from lead paint is to children who can ingest dust through normal hand-to-mouth behavior, or construction workers who encounter high levels of dust daily. Lead can build up in the bloodstream and cause cognitive decline.

Still. Protect yourself in the future by using a respirator and using plastic to control dust you generate.

There is a possibility that it could contain lead as Japan has strong sense of tradition and some potters still well could be using lead based glazes. However it's unlikely a modern/new piece would contain any amounts of lead.

Post a picture so we can have a look at the style of cup you have. This would give an indication if this style of cup historically contained lead glazes.

There are lead testing kits that are readily available as well:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-051141936130-LeadCheck-Swabs-2-Pack/dp/B0051VARFG

If you get this CowboyStudio trigger/receivers you'll be able to trigger two flashes at once. Then you can buy individual receivers to hook up to your remaining flashes. For some reason it's actually cheaper to buy the kit with a transmitter and two receivers though.

That's the setup I use. You have to keep your flashes in manual, but it works (for Nikon and the cheap-o YN-560s). Range is good, batteries seem to last just fine, everything works out of the box.

I have been saving up for these Wireless Flash Triggers so I can take our family portrait. They aren't that expensive, but I just can't seem to squeeze an extra $30 into my budget.

Thanks!

I used two of these and this set of colors.


Easy results for under $100. around $100.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and this for my off-camera triggering system.

Negative.

These: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IQRMN4?cache=fd675d6458efc54de88cdcf1a1306e57&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412569082&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Get some lens wipes like these. Most optometrists carry similar product lines, too. This is where I got mine (good ol' Specsavers). They work really well, but: inspect the lenses first for visible dust/grit. If there is, use either one of these, or the brush from one of these first, before using the wipes.

Get a Rocket Blaster and a LensPen.

https://www.amazon.com/Giottos-AA1920-Rocket-Blaster-Small-Black/dp/B000L9OIQ2/

https://www.amazon.com/LENSPEN-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW/

Televue has a guide on eyepiece cleaning here. But the short answer is that a q-tip and alcohol should be fine, and so would pretty much anything else that you'd use for cleaning camera lenses.

Personally, I use a rocket blower to get rid of loose dust, and a lens pen for oils/fingerprints/whatever. When things get really bad, it's lens cleaning fluid from the camera store and Kimwipes (these guys don't leave lint behind like qtips/Kleenex do).

Fingers crossed I'm better at riddles than I think I am ;)

1. Wine - Since wine is made from grapes, some grape flavored energy feels necessary to make it through school
   
   
2. Broom - This lenspen is basically a broom for a camera lens.
   
   
3. Hat - A hat goes on a head. It's hard to get ahead in life with horrible bosses. I know we have teachers here, but this BluRay should give me tips on dealing with that.
   
   
4. Book - Not horribly creative, but it does deal with this universe, so it's stuff I need to know.
   
   
5. Chest - It's a space to store things. I hear lots of things get stored in an office's space, so maybe this will show me how to store in a dorm room? :p
   
   B) Cape - Capes just make everything better

Yep I saw that one and this one. It does seem you brush it first then give it a wipe with the flat bit. People seem to say this is better than the blue cloth I am using

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lenspen-NLP1-New-OriginalÂ/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487331141&sr=8-3&keywords=Lens+pen

It’s made for camera lenses so haven’t tried it on glasses and it’s kinda dome shaped cleaning end so don’t think phones would work. LensPen NLP-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VLBUCb254GQH0

Probably doesn't need to be said but, be careful ! Always stand upwind so if it kicks up the bird will get blown away from you.

If it's very windy, probably better to just land on the ground and clean up later vs. risk your fingers. You can still hand-launch and get the shots with a clean lens. I like this thing.

This is a lens pen. One side is a brush, the other side is a microfiber cup that has some sort of cleaning compound on it, but it's 100% dry.

EDIT: Forgot the link https://www.amazon.com/Lenspen-NLP-1-LensPen/dp/B007G5NNOW

it's nice to have a lens pen brush thingy to brush off the sand once you're back inside, and especially before you change lenses. i wouldn't change lenses out in the sand if you can help it.

I have this one and it's been awesome. For a few bucks more you could get this package which includes a generic lens pens, an air blower and some other goodies.

BTW, seriously get the lens cleaning set. When you only clean with a cloth, and particles or dust on the lens can actually scratch the lens. I use the blower to blow off big particles then brush small stuff off. After that, I use a cloth to get any oils off.

Cheap on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Professional-Electronics-Refillable/dp/B0080JH3YE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468527775&sr=8-3&keywords=photo+lens+cleaner+set

use stuff meant for cleaning camera lenses.

Personally I have this one and it works great.

Altura Photo Professional Cleaning Kit for DSLR Cameras and Sensitive Electronics Bundle with Refillable Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080JH3YE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KM5PybH1YCWVC

Others on this sub have recommended a Nikon brand lens pen but it was always sold out when I went to buy.

I use a lens cleaning brush to dust them off somewhat regularly.

For some more serious cleaning I remove the caps from the keyboard and spray them down with a 50% isopropyl alcohol and 50% water solution and wipe them with a micro fiber cloth.

This pack off Amazon would be perfect to do what I described: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Professional-Electronics-Refillable/dp/B0080JH3YE/

Palmer said they're gonna look into replacing scratched lenses. I'm not sure when it will be or if they're gonna charge or not. As for the dead pixel, my dk1 got dust in it really easily because I changed lenses a lot. I put the rift in a grocery store bag tilted sideways, so no debris could get in from above, and used compressed air on the screen. Worked great! And eVRday suggested this kit to clean your lenses. I ordered it for 10 bucks yesterday.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080JH3YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any recommendations on a simple cleaning kit? Don't have much gear (DSLR + one lens) but would like to keep my glass clean. Are any of the basic inexpensive Amazon kits any good (ex: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080JH3YE/ ) or is it worth spending more? Price range is $10-30. Thanks!

I use this one, nice little kit.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080JH3YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attached is some pictures of the mirrors and focusers.

https://imgur.com/a/TLrc7LA


Also, I ordered this cleaning kit so it will be coming in today.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080JH3YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Trying to build a simple, large overhead rig for work for under $300 to do creative, top-down shots. We have a Canon EOS 7D and a 28-135mm lens that we will probably replace because it has an issue with the zoom sliding down at anything more than a 30 degree tilt.

I think I've come up with a pretty bare bones rig that will work. But since I usually just shoot by hand or tripod and don't have much experience with studio equipment, I was hoping someone could check to make sure this would work.

• Ravelli ABSL Backdrop Stand Kit (13' x 15')
  
• Manfrotto 035RL Super Clamp
  
• Manfrotto 494RC2 Ball Head w/ Quick Release
  
• AmazonBasics Wireless Remote
  
  Was hoping if someone could tell me if this seems okay. Could anyone recommend an affordable lens that would be good for shooting from about 8' - 10'? Furthermore, is there a somewhat inexpensive method for routing shots to a Macbook for review while shooting?
  
  EDIT: It looks like the best way to route shots is a 15' USB cable and to route into a software, so that should be pretty straightforward.

Dude, get one of these! Dirt cheap and it's pretty useful. They have them for Nikon, too.

Hey that's perfect thanks!

I wonder if this would work the same. Or if operates on a different IR frequency or something

I really don't find anything interesting about this photo unfortunately. I encourage you to try again because you have an interest in photography - here are my recommendations:

• If you're going to take a self-portrait, use a good focal length (50mm-200mm is good for a tight crop) lens, place the camera on a tripod, and either use a remote shutter to get the focus sharp (yours is very blurry which seems like you simply held the camera facing you and pressed the shutter). Some cameras like the Canon 70d or 6dmii have a wifi feature where you can download something like the Canon Camera Connect and preview/take the photo from your smartphone. Don't hold the camera backward like you're taking a smartphone selfie if you want proper composition and focus.
  
• Choose an expression, whether you want it to be serious, happy, sexy, moody, etc., that will be of some visual interest in your portraits. Right now your expression to me is just confused or apathetic, and provides no emotion at all. There are tutorials online such as "how to pose" or "how to take better portraits" that can help with this. Even this stock photo shows that you don't have to necessarily be smiling, but just do something to create visual interest.
  
• Find an interesting background for your portrait, or use a shallow depth of field to blur out uninteresting/noisy backgrounds.
  
  Working on these fundamentals should yield better results next time. Good luck.
  
  

ahh...

AmazonBasics Wireless Remote Control for Canon Digital SLR Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCEJ0E0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tfGTzbEQHKNVC

I found one on Amazon Prime for $9, thanks for the tip!

I had a similar question so I'm glad OP asked. When you say a remote, what kind of remote? I picked up the $8 Amazon Basics remote but I have a good feeling that's not what you mean. Or have I just not figured out how to super long exposure with it yet?

There are a few things you can do. You can get some solar film and rig it up to sit over the front of your lens. You could do this a number of ways, this being more complicated but probably the nicest way: YouTube video.

The problem is that 105mm on a crop sensor will not render a large image of the sun. It'll probably be too small to see Mercury.

The better solution might be to do the solar film on the telescope and rig up your phone camera to it. I've never tried it, but others have gotten good results from it. Other than that, I would suggest looking at renting a lens and doing the solar filter over that.

Don't fret too much if you miss it, I'll likely miss it in my location, the forecast shows clouds and rain all day. It's not like Venus transits; the next one being 100 years from now. The next Mercury transit is in November 2019.

> https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Filter-Telescopes-Binoculars-Cameras/dp/B00DS7S52W

Yeah, that stupid moon is SO bright right now. We've gotten some good looks at Jupiter and its moons, but I'm really looking forward to Saturn. What resources are you using to know when Saturn will be high up?

Is there a good way to mount a flexible sheet as a filter? I'm talking about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Filter-Telescopes-Binoculars-Cameras/dp/B00DS7S52W/ I'm not super familiar with square filters, but the mounts I see on amazon seem specific to a particular square filter system? Or can you mount any sheet of material that's the proper size in them?

On Amazon. Unfortunately, the price went up and it's not available until 8/20/17.

8"x8" Solar Filter Sheet for Telescopes, Binoculars and Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DS7S52W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_79BLzbQ45T2E8

You don't need a filter during totality but you need a special solar filter up to and after totality or you'll fry you camera. I bought this filter and I am making a rig to pop it on and off quickly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DS7S52W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_VPFIzbVG6AYXP

This video might also be helpful if you have not shot the sun before

https://youtu.be/S_nnEDwv19k

Have Fun and Good Luck!😊

Is this good enough? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DS7S52W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462740584&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=solar+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41vp2KLkxGL&ref=plSrch

I'm using this solar filter sheet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DS7S52W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Made a makeshift solar filter from it out of cardboard and electrical tape. My camera is a Nikon p900. Certainly not an sophisticated astrophotography set up, but I make due with what I have.

is it this one?. I need to get a cheap filter that just works.

I am in the same situation, and haven't heard anything formal yet. However, I have seen that the UK version of Amazon is listing an extension cable with a release date of Sept 25. Amazon UK. So I am not sure if that is official, and if it will be available and/or work in other regions.

Basically the issue is two-fold. The camera cable has a proprietary plug, so someone would have to either license it from Sony or reverse engineer it. AND, it is a powered cable, which is why some people who have tried splicing it themselves have failed. The power can't go further than 3 meters or so, without an additional power source.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Calibur-11-220033-Camera-Extension/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I got this one for $30: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FZTUJBK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But Amazon no longer has it. Works great. Find it somewhere else?

I see other cables like it on Amazon. This one has good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Extension-Cable-PS4-playstation-vita/dp/B00JFX1IHM#customerReviews

Maybe others on Amazon with more reviews?

you can get an extender https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Extension-Cable-PS4-playstation-vita/dp/B00JFX1IHM

Grab this one, I got one a few weeks ago and it works great. There's some available on Prime by the looks of it, make sure you click the "New from..." link

I used these items from Amazon:

Tripod Mini Ball

Universal Smartphone Mount

Camera Extension Cable

8 ft. Lighting Rig Stand


The tripod mini ball attaches to the lighting rig stand, and the smartphone mount attaches to the ball. I expand the clip to fit the PSVR camera with its' plastic stand folded into a "]" shape and lock it into place. You can probably build something similar for cheaper but I didn't think this was too bad. The extension cable helps for more complex setups where being compact isn't necessary or isn't possible for whatever reason.

> is there an offical ps tripod?

Nope, but I have this one and use it with new camera:

https://www.amazon.de/Neewer-Packungen-190-Zentimeter-verstellbar-Produktfotografie/dp/B01M6WG4II/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526015345&sr=8-2&keywords=neewer%2Bvr&th=1

Also have such a cable, but from eBay:

https://www.amazon.de/Calibur-11-220033-Verlängerungskabel-PS4-Kamera/dp/B00JFX1IHM/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1526015599&sr=1-1&keywords=ps4+camera+cable

There seems to be only one manufacturer left that actually sells them anymore, for quite a chunk of money.. but it works fine for me.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JFX1IHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have my base stations permanently secured.

Instead, I bought a pair of these, but only used one of them, clamped to a bookcase.

On the other side of the room I have a basic camera tri-pod I bought over a decade ago sitting on a shelf with it's legs very close together and not extended very far.

I'm using spring clamp mount. Works very well. Can clip on to all kinds of stuff. Got one on top of a small step ladder and the other on top of a wardrobe door. Have had perfect tracking even though they are at different heights. Cheap as well.

Phot-R Multi-Function Spring Clamp with 1/4" Screw Ball Head for DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_utnpxbT586DDH

You can get clamps with ball joints, easier to work with and still fairly affordable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

Yes, those are the third hand poles that I didn't want to spend the money on, I didn't realise that they were not spring loaded. I was also thinking of the marks left by the pressure so I am considering using rubber pads on the feet. I have a pack of these lying around: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007J6VKU2
If I remove slippery part I'll be left with 4 thick rubber pads that I can use.

Of course it all depends on whether the poles themselves will be stable enough and I'm not feeling too confident :)

As for the camera mount itself, I bought something like the recommended ones in a local shop but the shop keeper also showed me something like this which might be useful for a temporary solution or for transferring to a seated area where the lighthouse doesn't have to be held up too high (on a shelf or something):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

If I do end up using command strips I might use a secondary command strip and somehow tie a leash between it and the main mount. I might do that anyway to have a secondary anchor

I was hoping for something less bulky that the following, but it might be the best option at under £5ea:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

so the following would work?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503658318&sr=8-1&keywords=clip+on+camera+mount

I bought these poles (£12.99 each) - http://www.screwfix.com/p/extension-support-rod/14003#_=p

And these clamps (£3.95 each) - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g421_i1_r?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=87YCDV8QBXTC9EFKJ5CQ&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=867551827&pf_rd_i=desktop

They are solid.. just need my vive to arrive on Thursday :)

with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 althogh i would gues i might need a better clamp than the clips if they are heavy.

These worked well for me as I had some high shelfs so they clamp on to those no drilling required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have my lighthouses set up with a pair of clamp mounts which lets me attach them to my bookcase and wardrobe without having to drill any holes in the walls.

edit: you just missed out on the recent 25% off steam sale for the Rick and Morty game sadly

I'll give you a tip:

Extendable shower rods (or some other extendable pole of some kind), and something like these.

Wedge the shower poles between floor and ceiling, screw the base stations into the clamps, then fasten them onto the poles and adjust as required.

I've been using this method for over a month now and it works a treat.

 

I don't know how I found this post from a week ago either.

I do a VR night at a local pub and have used the mounts I'll link below also. They do a great job. Also if you don't want to use your stock lighthouse electric adapters (I can't use mine because I have them ran under wire covers) these work great also. Just will need an extension cord.

Smatree Ajustable Jaws Flex Clamp Mount 13.4" Gooseneck Extension for GoPro Hero 5/4/3+/3/2/1/Session / for Ricoh Theta S, M15 Cameras/ for Compact Cameras(1/4" thread) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B-pHybZNRWQJA

ALED LIGHT® 12 Volt 3 Amp LED Strip Light Power Adapter, AC to DC, 2.1mm X 5.5mm Plug, Regulated 12v 3a Power Supply Wall Plug for LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SSU92Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_a1sWXNPht7UyF

I have these plus two of these which are cheaper if you need two stands. That said, anytime these are bumped, your whole world will shake around (and I suspect bumpings will be commonplace if your dorm is a typical on), so if possible, you should probably use shower-rod-style stands like what /u/Decapper linked, or one of these to set on top of a bookshelf or something, or clamps something along the lines of this.

Only concern I would have is if you extend the pole you will reduce camera stability. Not sure if your area is susceptible to floor vibration but that may cause the cameras to sway if they are extended too much. Otherwise something like this on Amazon may work https://www.amazon.com/Smatree-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Session/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510158120&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F4+camera+mount+extension&dpID=41RTccFuUML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

No, they are not included, you can get some here:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRI7M/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4L2976/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PICAE4C/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ABB4HC/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GV0LW6E/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWNYGUS/

http://www.amazon.com/Smatree%C2%AE-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Cameras/dp/B00MWNYGUS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464584994&sr=8-5&keywords=camera+mount

I use these. We have a dropped ceiling, so I just clamp this to the bar attached to the wall.

This is late but I stumbled into this thread from a search for something else. I've just finished my semester doing the same thing for a Calculus 2 class in a college setting. I usually use a chalkboard, but I opted for a webcam attached to a clip-on stand. This ran through my laptop (a Mac, which is relevant) and then into the overhead projector. Instead of writing on a board I instead wrote on paper. This actually encouraged me to pre-print worksheets to work through and also make available for students, which has been very helpful and I've received lots of positive comments from students about the setup. Lectures are recorded with Quicktime Player using my laptop's built-in mic. After a new concept or a natural break in the discussion I stop recording, save the video, and start another one, giving me videos of 5-15 minutes each. This semester I ended up with 150 videos, all hosted on YouTube unlisted with a playlist URL that I shared with students once at the beginning of the semester (voting and comments disabled).

When I wanted to use a virtual manipulative (I like GeoGebra for demos, and I code on the fly in front of the class with Sage) I use [record screen] rather than [record movie] in Quicktime. If I run DwayneCam (free app for OSX) I can show the webcam stream in a window on the desktop while I also show my web browser, and the whole screen gets recorded.

It really is a great setup and cost me under $100 total. Plus all you ever see of me is my hand.

Webcam

Stand

If you are looking for a way to avoid damaging your wall, check out these clamps. They work really well for me. http://i.imgur.com/RHXEkbJ.jpg

I have a similar problem. Dual monitors but they're vertically stacked.

What I've done with my DK2 camera is clamp it with this mount to a curtain rod and it's been working wonderfully. It's even delivered an alright standing experience. Especially for DK2. I can't wait to get my CV1 camera up there. It's at the kind of height that'd be recommended for lighthouse base stations.

Raspberry Pi 2 B+ (Older versions are barely powerful enough for streaming 1080p): http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452140774&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+2+b%2B

RaspiCam: http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-5MP-Camera-Board-Module/dp/B00E1GGE40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452140727&sr=8-1&keywords=raspicam

Extra cable for the camera: https://www.adafruit.com/products/2144

This camera holder: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1434

This flexible camera mount: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage


Follow the steps here: https://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_pi/comments/2ahzp2/raspberry_pi_encoder_live_streaming_to_youtube/

The most important step is to download ffmpeg crosscompiled for arm from here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0OC20ApqKZ_YVB3NHF6VU9XTUE/edit?usp=sharing

Then you can use my script:
./video.sh "Your custom message can go here"

!/bin/bash

SERVER="rtmp://a.rtmp.youtube.com/live2"
KEY="YOUR YOUTUBE KEY GOES HERE"

while true; do pkill -9 raspivid; pkill -9 ffmpeg; raspivid -o - -t 0 -ISO 100 -ev 0 -w 1920 -h 1080 -fps 25 -b 5500000 -g 50 -awb off -awbg 1.7,1.8 -st -ae 64,0xff,0x808000 -a "$1" -a 1025 | /home/pi/arm/bin/ffmpeg -re -ar 44100 -ac 2 -acodec pcm_s16le -f s16le -ac 2 -i /dev/zero -f h264 -i - -vcodec copy -acodec aac -ab 160k -g 50 -strict experimental -f flv $SERVER/$KEY; done

I use these since they take up no floor space. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just got these and highly recommend them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was worried about the gooseneck not being strong enough for the light houses, but it's very sturdy -- almost difficult to move. The clamps are strong and large and the 360º pivot is just icing.

I use these but portable only in the sense that I go to my parents/friends/my home with it all. Not demoing everywhere.

I have it on a camera mount that I can put pretty much anywhere. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MWNYGUS/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481815407&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

They will screw right in to these clamps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MWNYGUS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1480564543&sr=8-7&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=camera+clamps

I got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWNYGUS/ They're very sturdy.

This is the stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Aluminium-centimeters-Stabilizer-kilograms/dp/B00NJKJ1IA

On a college student's budget, I imagine something like this would be best:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1469684126&sr=1-2&keywords=glidecam

I haven't used this unit, but the reviews are positive.

Even still...an effective 56mm focal length feels a bit narrow for this kind of thing. I'm not an expert with the things, but I've typically seen between 20mm - 40mm used more commonly. And there is definitely a learning curve with glidecam-like stabilizers.

If your budget is higher then you could try out the DJI Osmo, an all-in-one camera and stabilization device for $500-ish. The footage it produces isn't amazing, but it stabilizes well and has a wider 20mm-equivalent focal length.

mexicojoe is right, though...you could use a tripod. Mounting a camera to a tripod and carrying the rig by the legs will give you a steadier shot than handheld thanks to the added weight. But it will still be very very shaky at 56mm.

Appologies in advance if this is not the best place to ask this, but I could use some help. I have recently started to make use of my DSLR (a Nkon 3200, btw) for filming, and I've been looking at stabilisation setups. I've found three that look good, but I'[m having a hard time deciding between them, so I thought I'd see if any of you lovely people have any comments that might help me. My camera weighs in at around 700-850g, depending on the lens I'm using.

These are the three that I've narrowed it down to, any advice would be most appreciated.

Fotowelt

Koolertron Mini

Neewer

Not recommending it, but I've been looking at this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_wq8-wb22ME7PP). It's what came up when I searched another obscure brand I watched a review on that looked good. Definitely do your research, as I will.

What kind of camera do you have? For my DSLR I use a steady cam. This is a pretty cheap and good one.

Steady Cam

Hmm ive just watched some video on the ND Filter, that looks awesome!! Ill Be sure to grab one of those, is £100 About the norm for one of these?Also hand held stabiliser? Would oyu be able to suggest one or two? I have looked at many of these things and there are allot of conflicting views, I know smooth shots will make me look more professional but I dont know where to start. I mean there are some I have seen on amazon Neewer Glidecam Copy and this one eimo 60centimeter Magic Carbon. From looking over the amazon reviews, they all seem to offer the same sort of quality. Not Hollywood level, but good enough to get started?.

Would you suggest something like this Handheld-Stabilizer Neewer I have no Idea if this would do the job but they seem to go up to ££££ mega cash.

I like the idea of the portable light but I get what you mean with the direction, I meant more like what portable lighting or lighting in general should I be getting for a music video, or should it be those big silver reflectors?

Absolutely. I started with a Neewer stabilizer, I've yet to invest in a motorized gimbal myself, as those go for upwards of $600 for a decent one. For short docs I find myself using a shoulder rig the most, and for a shoulder rig I started with the Neewer brand as well. This brand was my best friend starting out lol. The stabilizer/glidecam will take a tinsy bit of practice but this particular one has served me very well personally. YouTube search the gear you're eyeballin, see what others say, and you'll surely make the best choice suited for you. Cheers!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tLLzbKA1ZE19

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTMBA7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IzLLzbHH9G1YM

I'm a downhill skateboarder and a few of my friends use a DJI Ronin stabilizer to ride along with other riders and film. Unfortunately there aren't many gimbal stabilizers that are under $200 that would be useful for riding along and filming. However, you could get a simple scorpion grip that would serve the same purpose, though not with gimbal level stability.

If you're not going to be riding along with them and instead will be standing and filming while the riders go by, you could get one of these. A friend of mine has one and the footage looks great.

Steadicam: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1482698629&sr=1-16&keywords=steadicam

Thanks for helping! I don't have a lot so far, but I'm in a position where I can buy more equipment.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Handheld-Stabilizer-Release-Cameras/dp/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1478792372&sr=1-1&keywords=steady+cam

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-EOS-Rebel-EF-S-18-55/dp/B00BW6LWO4

http://www.amazon.com/Rode-NTG2-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B00093ESSI

If you can provide with a list of stuff I would need to reproduce something of similar quality, ideally for fairly cheap, I'll happily give you gold for your troubles!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NJKJ1IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494504575&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=steady+cam&dpPl=1&dpID=41WhFqqDMRL&ref=plSrch
Super cheap and well made, you should just practice on using it first. I used it in my music video for the opening shot.

I got this rode mic and I've liked it! It takes a battery, which is supposed to give it more range. I've not compared to head-to-head with anything else, but there are a crap ton of youtube vids that do just that if you want to compare!

I'm no expert, but how about a G7 kit/bundle, Røde Mic + Deadcat and finally a decent tripod?

The G7 is really great as far as I'm concerned, especially for the price. I'm guessing it's way better than any camcorders you can get for the same price.

Grab a pair of these lights. They're shitty and really white but they will do the job on your budget.

As for the Rode, it's probably not a good idea since you will need a boom pole, stand, XLR extension, and audio recorder to get it to work to its full potential. You can blow your $500 alone right there. So, for now, pick up a VideoMic Pro.

Its a Canon 70d w/ 18-135mm lens and 17-85mm Lens (the 17-85mm is the one that clicks when it is focusing) For a microphone he uses a Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R. He used the NEEWER 160 LED light for the ursla series. To mount the microphone and light he used something like the Eynpire Camera Triple Mount.

Unfortunately, you aren't going to be able to get one that records in true stereo within your budget. Any that are stereo, like the Rode Stereo Videomic, are going to be out of what you listed for your price range. Essentially, they are two mics mounted as one and will cost more because of that. They also won't be shotgun mics, so they will pick up everything.

As for a mic in your budget, the Rode Videomic Pro is a pretty good one that is commonly used. It's not as good as an XLR mic like the AT875R or Rode NTG3, but it stacks up decently against some of the other budget shotgun mics like the Aperture Deity or NTG1.

LimoStudio 700W Photography Softbox Light Lighting Kit Photo Equipment Soft Studio Light Softbox 24"X24", AGG814 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4YS2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZTQSzbVNKB89F

these lights are amazing. I agree with what someone else on this thread said about sound quality, if your using sound for films a good mic is a necessity.

Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R with Rycote Lyre Shockmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAZHRZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iXQSzbKQ519VP

This mic is pretty good for recording, your also going to need a boom pole. For the lenses ND filters are a must as well, get these and some stopping down filter rings for your lenses. The lenses someone listed down below look pretty good

mate you mean this RODE

Amazon.com: Rode VMPR VideoMic Pro R with Rycote Lyre Shockmount: Musical Instruments
https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VMPR-VideoMic-Rycote-Shockmount/dp/B00YAZHRZM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478799161&sr=8-1&keywords=rode+videomic+pro

$229.00

if it's really worth it ... I might ...

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | MY GIRLFRIEND'S FIRST SKATEBOARD!!!
Description | CONTACT | STORE | BUCKET LIST: http://www.iamjohnhill.com/ SARA: https://www.youtube.com/saradietschy MUSIC IN ORDER: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9DxfsqUN-A https://soundcloud.com/lghthd (strange) Can't deny the good time I'm having with this peach(: NEW CAMERA: http://amzn.to/2lEBxQF NEW WIDE ANGLE LENS: http://amzn.to/2ljpfRz MIC: http://amzn.to/2mybAWG WIRELESS MIC: http://amzn.to/2ljowzG MIC RECORDER: http://amzn.to/2lELOMy POINT AND SHOOT CAMERA: http://amzn.to/2j7ftAs HANDLE: http:...
Length | 0:16:01






****

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This is the one I bought, works perfect with my Link Box. Not sure if you can get it in Canada. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's what I've got in my cart. If somebody could give a quick glance and tell me if I'm good to go. I'd greatly appreciate it:

Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Link box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

Hdmi cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Usb cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSS9LEI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

You will need this.....

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Pc/dp/B01LXR6DKV

And this......

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY

Interesting. I guess it's just acting as an HDMI/USB repeater. Hopefully someone with more experience can comment. It looks like this AC adapter can be used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY

I think they're priced relatively reasonably, with the exception of the Link Box. The base stations seem overpriced until you consider just how much R&D went into them. Consider further that Valve and HTC have promised support of third-party controllers and HMDs, and you're left with a scenario that the base stations are the only thing left that you have to buy from Valve, so it's fair to make a bit of profit on that.

The link boxes, however, aren't fairly priced. It's just a link box. It doesn't come with a male-to-male USB cable (something most folks don't have lying around), nor an HDMI cable (more common) or a power adapter (no one will have this!). You can't even buy it from HTC separately; you have to order one from Amazon. Considering that this and the other cables add $15-$20 more, and you have to source them separately, I think the link box is a bit of a rip-off.

I bought it anyway, of course, along with the cables and a pair of extra pair of base stations so that I can keep one set up at home and one in my studio. But it definitely sucked.

Will with these, but not great.
(i have a 1050ti 4GB laptop, and needed these. dell 7567)
the ti runs it fantastic however.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0E394U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXR6DKV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I am using a vive linkbox for both my Rift and O+ (and Explorer) and it works great. In fact the USB going into the linkbox is a daisy-chain of non-active 3.0 cables plugged into each other to make it long enough to reach the top of the shelf it's stuck to. You do need a power adapter but don't need to buy the $20 one amazon suggests. I use this one. I have noticed that I have to unplug the Rift sensors while using the Odyssey or I get constant connects/disconnects of USB devices (doesn't seem to be the O+ disconnecting as I don't get any glitching while playing, but it's annoying to hear).

Thanks for letting me and thanks for the update. I was able to find a 3.5mm on Amazon. It even has a review from a Vive owner who uses it for his breakout box, so that's great! It doesn't fit perfect, they said "This metal plug is ever so slightly longer than the OEM cable's, but the important thing is the width, so I don't care." So this is probably as close as we'll get, I'm not able to find anything better.

Leaving the link for others that run into this thread: https://smile.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY

What already does work - at least as a 6 foot extension that works is as follows:

Display Port:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1G74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 Vive link booster (both HDMI (not Display Port ) and USB3)

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Link-Box-Limited/dp/B07TRSMJJX/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Power supply

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/136-9265774-0787045?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=eef03caa-f265-4a74-8cea-0c441fa02b2e&pd_rd_w=TYkgw&pd_rd_wg=76Kme&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1&psc=1&refRID=8493GBG52WE0QDVM7AS1

6foot USB3 cable (male to male )

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P0E394U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Some other just USB booster could work and be simpler. I just used the Vive box when I had a Samsung Odyssey+ and then reused it for the Reverb.

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kD1JBb5FQR8HE

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power Supply Adapter Switching for Cameras DVR NVR LED Light Strip DC3.5*1.35mm UL listed FCC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZD1JBbVM7W102

UGREEN USB 3.0 A to A Cable Type A Male to Male Cable Cord for Data Transfer Hard Drive Enclosures, Printers, Modems, Cameras (6FT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0E394U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lE1JBbG15KXT3

And it still needs a hdmi cord. Note, the USB cord is a Male to male cord

If this is the one it is showing you then yes it should work.

https://www.amazon.com/12V1-5A-Supply-Adapter-Switching-Cameras/dp/B018JL0YIY/ref=pd_bxgy_63_2/144-2600896-3700832?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JL0YIY&pd_rd_r=c5b5ad91-4ead-4090-aef4-a162d9e8fc68&pd_rd_w=ebb8P&pd_rd_wg=zaIbj&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6&psc=1&refRID=N5HAVQ8S1Y00CRS3HBY6#customerReviews

Also keep in mind you will need a USB 3.0 cable and HDMI Cable. I wouldn't go longer than 6 feet although I know some people have had luck with 10. Also a small bonus the Vive Link Box has Bluetooth in it. I have not validated that as I have the O+ and it has bluetooth built into the headset for the controllers. I have read other people have use the BT in the Link box fine however.

this goes on the camera. Then something like this screws into the first adapter and connects you to the telescope. You need to check whether your scope can take 2" eye pieces or not. If it only take the 1.25" size, then you would need this instead. On a crop sensor it probably doesn't make a huge difference, but you'll get less vignetting with the 2" adapter.

I have an old basic go to scope from Mead. I believe it's a 4.5" Meade refractor. I bought this eyepiece adapter for it but my Olympus micro4/3 camera needs to be closer zoomed in. I mean it needs to be closer into the scope. The focus knob needs to be more screwed in. I need less throw on it.

Celestron 93625 Universal 1.25-inch Camera T-Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000665V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wRACDbC77S135

I don't know how to describe it. I need the focus point less deep than this item allows. Do they make things like this?

This refractor on a CG-4 EQ mount looks to me like a good starting point for astrophoto for less than what you want to spend. You have to add motor drives, a polar finder scope, a camera adapter, and T-ring to connect your camera but then you are good to go.

There is a version of this setup using a 150mm reflector as the imaging scope that has given very impressive results. "Jarrodnb" has posted his images here over the last several months. Whether to go with the refractor or the reflector is probably a matter of preference. The reflector gathers more light and has a shorter f/ratio, both of which enable shorter exposure times.

I don't think you can get an imaging setup with autoguiding like the CG-5 for the money you are looking to spend, but a lot of people may say that it is needed for decent results.

I am using a wedge-mounted Celestron 8 I got on Craigslist along with a second hand Canon 400D, and so far I have this image of M13. It's FAR from perfect but I enjoyed the process of making it.

Thanks a lot it's been really helpful.

Right now I'm looking at this and this. I'll be good then?

I know it's a 1.25 and you said to get a 2" but right now I'm going cheap. When/if I decide to really start doing things hardcore I'll get the nice stuff.

For reference, I just recently bought these two:

• http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002APX3VQ/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0000665V6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I wont say for certain, as I'm just getting into this myself, but I imagine you'll need similar kit for your scope. A t-adapter to fit into the telescope, and an adapter for your camera to attach to it!
  
  Hope that's somewhat helpful

Here is a very specific idea:
A new edition of "The Astrophotography Manual: A Practical and Scientific Approach to Deep Sky Imaging" by Chris Wodehouse is coming out December 16th. I have heard from friends I trust that the 1st edition was very good. So I am waiting till the 16th to get the second edition myself. Thought it might make a cool gift as your match is unlikely to have it. Just not sure if the 16th is too late. $60

Other ideas:

• A Telrad is much better than a finder scope IMO, and can be easily adapted to any scope. Should be under $50 with shipping.
  
• 100 Best Astrophotography Targets book. $38+ shipping.
  
• Astrobin Premium Subscription Not sure how feasible that is as a gift, but it's a nice service for image hosting astrophotos. $36.
  
• Download one of their Astrophotos (if you can find a high quality version) and have BayPhoto make a metal print of it.

8SE owner for over eight years, let me see if I can tackle some of these questions.

1. I found the foam the OTA came with fit perfectly into an igloo cooler. I used this to store and transport it before finally upgrading to a JMI case.
   
   
2. You can defocus a star to see if it needs collimation.
   
   
3. It really shouldn't require much in the way of maintenance.
   
   
4. No clue, but feel free to ask me if you have specific questions.
   
   
5. Humidity can promote fungal growth, probably not a bad idea to throw a silica packet or two in your case. I've taken mine 4-wheeling, left it out overnight in the desert, etc and never had any issues.
   
   
6. I absolutely love my Hand Control Mounting Bracket, it makes it much more pleasant to use. My JMI Motofocus takes care of any vibrations during focusing, and a Telrad made alignment much easier. I did eventually upgrade to a 50mm RACI finder as well. You'll probably want to pick up a dew shield and/or dew heater strips depending on where you live.
   
   Enjoy and clear skies, there's no need to be nervous about your new telescope!

As a recent XT8 owner, here's what I've purchased so far:

Rigel or Telrad finderscope. I bought the Rigel as I think it will be a little easier to use than the Telrad and take up less horizonal space.

Right Angle Correct Image finderscope like the Orion 9x50 is also helpful.

Wide angle 2" eyepieces, between 26mm and 38mm is what people talk about. It will probably become your primary eyepiece too. I picked up a set of used Orion Q70 that I'm waiting to be delivered and try out. Explore Scientific is also a brand that gets good reviews.

As for mods, I've installed an Ebonystar ring laminate kit on the azimuth base to provide smoother rotation. And replaced the teflon pads with higher quality pads on the altitude base. Though I think I probably should have only replaced 2 of the 4 pads. I have too little friction now so the scope (being top heavy) tends to slip downwards on its own.

The scope was used and it came with the Celestron accessory kit listed below. I only use the 32mm Plossl, the Barlow, and maybe one other eyepiece. The rest of the eyepieces (the ones with small aperatures) are almost impossible for me to use since I wear eyeglasses. I've used the Moon filter a couple of times. The rest of that kit is useless IMO. I wouldn't purchase the kit, and would recommend simply picking up the eyepieces separately, preferably used on one of the many astronomy forums.

Agreed completely. I have an Astromaster EQ 130, and couldn't even find the moon with the stock finder. I got one of the Telrad finder scopes for it, and it blew my freaking mind!

If I were to order from the site the scope came from I dont see the "gold line" ones people are recommending and that is in your sources.

They have the Orion eyepieces. The Expenase and the bit more expensive "Edge On".

I don't mind splurging a bit more for the 6mm since I imagine that will be a lot of my initial viewing.

Then they have the Q70 for the wider field. Says "pre order" but I'll see if they have it.

They don't seem to sell the Telrad but amazon.ca has it. I assume I would also need to buy some kind of base?

Thanks for all your help!

EDIT: For the 6mm would it also be better to pay a bit more and go 2" on that as well? I dont mind the bit of extra money but sometimes more isn't always better I imagine. Thanks!

I have a 10 inch, with eyepieces from 36 to 2.3. I really wouldn't suggest anything less than a 6mm. I would probably point you towards a varifocal instead since it's nice to not have to swap out eyepieces and use barlow's sometimes.

https://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484563795&sr=8-1&keywords=1.25%22+eyepiece+zoom for example.

Very inexpensive, you can target in on a larger 30's, and then swap to this, and click in/adjust/drag/focus, and click in, etc. and continue that down to 8.

I think you'll be a lot happier this way.

You dont really have to spend so much. I can see Saturn pretty well with my Telescope. The Scope is around $340 and I got a 8-24mm Zoom Lens which is around $40. That'll do. I'll add the links when I get home.

Edit: Links:-

• Celestron Nexstar 90SLT
  
  
• 8-24mm Zoom Lens

A telescope is not out of your range if you know what you really want and can save for it. I have a "smaller" one, but having a larger diameter opening allows you to capture more light and peer deeper in to space. You should get what you want and strive to save for it. I want to go bigger, maybe an XT10 computerized.

My telescope is good, in fact it over-preformed every time I went out. The one gripe I have about almost almost every inexpensive telescope is that it is not motorized. We live on a spinning rock in the galaxy so the telescope needs to be constantly adjusted. All you do with the motorized is find 3 stars and it can take you on a tour of the universe. It does a lot of the work for you so you wont accidentally lose what you were looking at.

I'd also recommend buying some filters, It helps when you look at the moon or nebulae.

Also, instead of swapping eyepieces for closing in on objects, this zoom lens is extremely helpful. With just a twist you can go from 8mm to 24mm. I own that exact model and it's great, plus you cant lose

It seems expensive, but if you really want it, you'll find ways to save and get it. I hope this helps and when you DO make a final decision I'd like to know what its is.

Billions and Billions

I've had a lot of success with this, I have an 8 inch dob and it does everything I need it to do. The only other thing I recommend, and this might be something you look for later on, is a larger (38-42mm) wide angle eyepiece for larger objects like the Pleiades and the double cluster.

http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-93230-24mm-1-25-Eyepiece/dp/B0007UQNV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417238580&sr=8-1&keywords=8-24mm+lens+telescope

This is exactly what I was looking for. Seriously, thank you for taking the time to write this out.

I think I'm going to get a decent 8-24x zoom eyepiece so that I can get an "o.k" look at everything on different magnifications on a budget.

But I'm going to get one nice eyepiece along with that for ideally planet viewing. So I'm looking at either a 5mm or a 9mm Celestron LX (I'm not a die hard Celestron customer, they're just easiest for me to get online here in Canada). I thought I read that really low focal length eye pieces aren't good for shorter focal length telescopes.

I'll be getting a decent barlow eventually (when the budget allows). So I'm kind of torn on the 5mm or 9mm, since I'll have the 8mm option on the zoom piece. Do you think the 9mm Celestron LX will be a much better view than the 8mm on the zoom? If it's barely noticeable, I'll get the 5mm. But I like the idea of having a nice eye piece in the magnification I'll be spending 90% of my time in.

I'm probably over complicating things... I'm a student with a low paying job though. I've gotta get bang for my buck and buy smart.

I'd also add a zoom eyepiece as an option. It's not a big deal to swap eyepieces, of course, but if you've got the financial flexibility, something like this is a nice investment:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007UQNV8

We used to use something like this.

I made two low-budget feature films with them and they worked out really well. The one downside of cheap audio equipment is they have a higher floor noise and the basic 35mm cables aren't shielded (vulnerable to picking up static) and have a higher floor noise.

And if you're shooting outside, get a dead cat. (Yes, SFW, it's a big fluffy windscreen.)

I appreciate your response.

Here is the microphone in question:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I Also understand the lense thing has been talked about before, i just was wondering about generic shooting lenses. I wish they'd sidebar something of importance like that as the reddit search function is very inaccurate.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Sorry I'm such a newb, but will this mic work? with this adapter? the guy in this video seemed to imply it would work. It looks like the cable is somewhat short, are there any work arounds for that? Sorry for all the questions, I hope someone here can offer some answers. Thanks!

Here's some reviews and discussions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfXBDhdehl8

http://www.amazon.com/Microphone-recommendations-for-Kodak-Zi8/forum/Fx2VMV1QKVDM9OA/Tx3N0Q35XW239K/1?asin=B002HOPUPC

http://createvideonotebook.blogspot.com/2009/09/steve-garfiled-reviews-external.html

Shotgun mics are harder to find in your price range, but you can try something like this. Of course support then becomes an issue. You may end up getting two lavs and figuring out a way to mix them together.

I recommend this badboy. I bought it a couple of months ago. Ive been really satisfied with it

You'd want a shotgun microphone because it's one of the most directional available.

A simple amazon search got this:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1323444845&sr=1-1 but I have no experience and no opinion either way of this specific mic's suitability or quality.

Thanks for the detail! It really helps. My shotgun mic is an ATR6550 with a 3.5mm cable, so I don't have an XLR cable yet. Another thing to mention is that I also have a Revo 1500 rig and a SmallRig QuickCage to place accessories.
Question, how can the Zoom be used as a backup in an emergency (with the Sescom), if the Zoom runs out of battery? Isn't the Shotgun the backup? Thanks!

Your best bet would probably be to pick up an xlr cable and some sort of supercardiod microphone. These are usually used in film in order to eliminate ambient noise when recording dialogue so it would be great for picking up crowd noise. Then just record straight from your mixer and add the two together with some quick post production.

(You could also pick up a consumer one with a simple 3.5 mm jack instead of an xlr and just plug it into your computer's mic jack - it would cost less but you'd lose some quality... Example)

For audio, the key thing is that you want the microphone as close to the actors as you can get. Starting with a shotgun mic and a boom pole will probably be your best bet unless you have the cash to splurge on wireless lavs. Rode and Sennheiser are always a good bet, but even a cheaper option like this Audio Technica mic will be way better than anything built into the camera.

For a camera, you'll want something that allows you to change focus/aperture manually. That's really the key to getting dynamic shots, where you can set focus for foreground/mid/background objects to keep things interesting. Depending on your budget, if you can afford a DSLR still camera that is capable of recording HD video you will get a lot more mileage out of it than a cheap handycam. The Panasonic LX7 is a good bet for lots of manual control.

If these are beyond your budget for now, just shoot with whatever you can get your hands on, even the GoPro.

Do you know how good her camcorder mic is? is she primarily in front of the camera?

If you are doing studio work you should be looking at shotgun microphones. A decent shotgun mic is going to cost a bit more than what is budgeted, especially when you factor a mount in http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-VM-200-Condenser-Microphone-Camcorders/dp/B007QV1E7Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1377066476&sr=1-2&keywords=microphone+dslr

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top might do if it's just for youtube, not the best but it seems adequate for studio work for youtube

EDITED: I had misspelled studio at one point and it autocorrected to stupid. i fixed this.

Hey guys, I hope this is the right place to ask this.

To make a long story short, I'm looking to buy a mic to use for Skype/TS/VoIP type stuff, mostly while gaming. I'm also looking to try something nicer than the low grade desk mics that I've used in the past. I was previously planning to just buy something like the Audio Technica AT2020 USB, but I'd like to try to find a solution that will allow me to reduce the level of sound that my mic picks up from other sources, primarily my mechanical keyboard, which is loud as hell.

To this end, I was thinking about picking up a fairly cheap shotgun mic and hooking it into a USB mixer that I could plug into my computer. I think the shotgun mic's directional nature would be an improvement on the mics I've been using (and that my friends have been complaining about) and would have less sound picked up from my keyboard (although I know it won't go away entirely).

Keeping in mind that I'm on a college student budget, and that this isn't for any kind of recording/voice over work for music or anything, here's what I had planned:

Audio-Technica ATR-6550 as the mic. It's low-cost and has reasonably good reviews. I've owned a few different pairs of AT headphones before and never had any complaints about their build quality or performance, so this seems like a good pickup at my price point. If this setup works, I could consider picking up a nicer mic later on in time.

Behringer Xenyx 302USB as the mixer. Again, low cost and obviously not stellar in performance or options, but I don't need it to do very much.

My understanding of it is that I can hook the mixer into my computer via USB, and it will register it as a recording/playback device. Then I can hook the shotgun mic (with a 1/4in adaptor on it) into the XLR/TRS mic input and that will serve as the new mic. I also should be able to plug my headphones into the headphones jack and my speakers into the output of the mixer, so that all of the recording and playback devices are handled by the mixer.

Ultimately, however, I don't actually know anything about audio equipment, including the mic and mixers. So if anyone has any advice to offer or suggestions to make, that'd be greatly appreciated. Also, if I'm completely wrong about how the inputs/outputs or something like that on the mixer works, then it'd be awesome if someone could help explain it to me.

Really depends on what low-cost is to you. A lot of people use the DR40 or an H4n ($175-200), but I have seen people do just fine with an iphone and line in. I don't know what your skill level or experience with processing/editing audio is, but you might make a practice run with a mic in your phone and see how that works.

So that really means a decent mic with a minijack, My recommendation and what I had my first shoots, is this [Audio Technica] (http://amzn.com/B002GYPS3Mc). There are loads of better mics, but not that I can think of in that price range.

Windscreen and a dead cat are always advised, they can be got cheap. If you get that mic setup all you need is a deadcat and a boom (or gaffers tape and a pole) and a shockmount.


There are more experienced people that are more knowledge about audio than me, hopefully one of them can chime in.

Express35 Rig-X on a Cowboystudio shoulder mount. Combine with a D|Focus Follow Focus and you have your self a cheap and effective rig.

I use this piece a lot for weddings and prefer it over a monopod. https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S

Perhaps, But I don't know a damn thing about Color hahah I think it looks great! I'm just starting to get into color correcting and was just curious if those effects could be achieved totally in Final Cut. As for my question about a shoulder mount, I was going to recommend this if you weren't already using one.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S

Its $30 and works pretty damn well for the price. I love mine to death. Heres a quick (and very sloppy) sample of the first thing I recorded with it.

http://vimeo.com/22252489

I've worked full time as a camera owner/operator for a few years now and I still use the cowboy studio rig I got like 4 years ago. It's durable, versatile, cheap and does the job. I can shoot all day with it on my shoulder, and it fits really nicely at hip height too so getting a good variety of shots on the move is definitely possible.

I also got a small rail system just to put a handle in front of the camera, but it can be used with or without it.

EDIT: Just reread the OP and i realize now you're more looking for a rail system with follow focus. I'd say look into renting one, cheap ones suck and the good ones are super expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414548876&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+shoulder+rig

I made a handle to go with it. Not too bad.

Thanks for being so elaborate reply! Really appreciate the effort of putting the links up to everything.

Yeah the GH4 has been the camera that I had been leaning towards although I still haven't made up my mind totally, you seem to be pretty happy with it? Any draws backs you have found?
I was also looking at Sony a7s have you had any experience with this camera? I hear there are limited lens options for it, but I guess you can always get a converter?

I'd actually been looking at that tripod for a while but was worrying that even though it looks it, it might not be heavy duty enough, cheers for the assurance!

Do you have any advice regarding sliders and LED kits?

And also have you used a cowboy before? I was running on a shoot the other day and the op had one and he really rated it. http://www.amazon.co.uk/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S

Here's some budget friendly pieces to get you started.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HTMYTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036NMQ7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EAJK2CS/ref=od_aui_detailpages03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-System-Handle-Stabilizer-Follow/dp/B00CRLBXTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420818004&sr=8-3&keywords=FOTGA+DP500+Rail+Rod+System

Might I suggest you purchase a cheap shoulder rig off amazon for your cam. I'm assuming you're using a DSLR, you can buy a cheap one from cowboy studios off of amazon. That or cropping your vid and stabilizing it in post.

I have one of those for my dslr setup. Looks like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PBB4ME

well i am getting http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-X-GRIP-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=dp_cp_ob_p_title_1 as i will be filming/shooting a lot of skate boarding. I of course will also just be shooting every day things. And all my photography kit currently includes is :- Cannon EOS 550D, 18-55mm lens, the photographers eye (book)

So you will probably move around with your camera while filming. The Hondo rig looks nice but how will you be holding your camera while filming?

I've got this rig http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing-Handle-/dp/B003PBB4ME/

It's really lightweight and makes it easy to move while filming. There are several of this sort of camere handle, this is just a cheap one and I'm not sure if and how this would work with a follow focus.

I don't know a lot about tripods so can't give you any advice on that but for moving shots the camera handle works great.

Oh man I am definitely artsy for life...

I do photography and videography and have been eyeing this [camera stabilizer] (Opteka X-GRIP Professional Camera / Camcorder Action Stabilizing Handle- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YFOyzbHQ2RTFV) to use for videos, especially during the week of GISHWHES. GISHWHES especially is all about bringing people together and making people's days with random acts of kindness and absurdity and art. I absolutely love it!

Get the biggest memory card you can afford. With Prime Day starting in a few hours, I have no doubt memory cards will eventually be featured. 128GB, Class 10, UHS-1 (or 3), V60 (or 90). Larger numbers are better.

If you really want to get into video, think about an inexpensive rig.

http://dslrvideoshooter.com/video-gear/rigs/

As a beginner, look at the $30 end. I have an ebay version of this. This one gets a lot of positive reviews and is only $20.

Video takes an insane amount of light. Since you are going to be in Colorado in the summer, shouldn't be an issue. Having said that, if you are going to be shooting in low light situations, you need a light. I have this one.

Finally, sound. If sound is important to what you are shooting, think about an external recorder. Internal mics are a huge compromise compared to even an inexpensive recorder can do. For $100 the Tascam DR-5 is more than adequate.


Ok, now having said that, the only thing you REALLY need to buy is the memory card. Everything else is optional. You can hand shoot with natural light and the internal mic and get great video. Its just a lot harder. Hard is not impossible, it just takes more practice.

Google around and you will find a ton of tutorials on how to shoot video with a DSLR. A few things that stuck in my mind:

Shoot 10-1. If you want a minute of video you need to shoot 10 minutes and edit it down.

Pan slowly. Go as slow as you can. Now go slower. Its amazing how "fast" any movement is when you are recording it.

Shoot low and away. Literally the opposite of what you want to shoot a still image. You need to get the camera away from your face because your breath is loud and will cause shake.

Shoot early and late. Start shooting BEFORE the event you want to get happens and keep shooting through that event. If you dont you wont have any edit room. Its not like you are buying tape/film so shoot as much as your sensor can handle.

Hope this helps! Im in Colorado Springs next week and you reminded me to pack my rig! Thanks!

There's also this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Opteka-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing-Accessory/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376775226&sr=8-1&keywords=x-grip

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Professional-Camcorder-Stabilizing-Handle-/dp/B003PBB4ME/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367443579&sr=8-2&keywords=cam+caddie

If you already have a tripod, you can try spreading the legs as wide as they go and holding at the top of the tripod for some stabilization. Film Riot shows off another technique.

Another option might be a coldshoe handle, which I saw for $25 on Amazon, or if you're afraid of damaging the camera hotshoe, you can get something like the Opteka X-GRIP. A slight step up from that would be a cage with two grips on the sides and a top handle, or something like a HaloRig, which goes for $150.

For better stabilization and to fly through the scene, at $200 or below, you're probably looking at a counterbalanced stabilizer, similar to a Glidecam or Steadicam Merlin. Though I wouldn't recommend this alone for hiking, as you arm will quickly get fatigued from all the weight; you'll want to a shoulder rig for added support and better stabilization.

If you can budget around $600, you're getting into gimbal territory, like the ikan Beholder MS1 or which would give you a much lighter active stabilization rig compared to counterbalanced systems.

I do a lot of travel as well have tried out various methods of stabilization over the years. Personally, I think a gimbal is the way to go. It's lighter and way easier to setup than a counterbalanced stabilizer, though the counterbalanced stabilizers usually will give you more fluid motion (gimbals can be pretty robotic with movement, especially with panning left/right). I've gone on hikes with my Nebula 4000 Lite gimbal, and my arm hasn't felt tired at all, probably because I had the rig on an R-Strap and let it hang when not in use.

Thank you for the advice! I wonder if the g25 would be a wiser purchase?

As for sound gear, I was considering this Rode mic.

I use a Nikon D3300 for all of my videos. It's not really known as being a video making camera, but I have it set up on a tripod and I get great 1080p quality.

If you go this route, I recommend snagging an external mic to mount on top for better audio quality.

So far, I have had absolutely no problems with it, and don't see myself needing to upgrade anytime soon.

Get this instead:

http://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-VMP-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B004K8WPUQ

go for the preamped one, plus the built is ergonomically better. I have the Rode VideoMic and the shock mount is suspended by those rubber bands. The rubber band caused a break in the mount, where the tabs are.

In that case, you have a few options you could play with. As 2013orBust mentioned, you could conceivably purchase the Blackmagic Cinema Camera (2.5k RAW). You could also pick up a 5dMkII, a Panasonic GH3, or even a Sony a99. However, I would highly recommend investing in a mid-priced DSLR (maybe a 6D, 7D, GH3, something along those lines) and save up the rest for some good primes.

As for audio equipment, the Rhode VideoMic Pro shotgun mic can be attached in the hot shoe and works well. You could also invest in a Zoom H4N, or Tascam DR-100mkII, or Tascam DR-40 (those are just some of the more popular, but there are some other options; my personal favorite is the DR-100mkII).

Head over here and look through the comments to see some awesome recommendations about some other gear you could potentially invest in at different price levels.

EDIT: Mistakenly thought the Blackmagic could only record RAW at 2k, changed that to 2.5k.

Here is a great guide for an audio setup in your price range.

You can definitely get a good audio setup for $500 seeing as you already have an H4N. I'd suggest for on camera the Rode Videomic Pro which will be useful for events and such when you're run-and-gun filming. Someone already mentioned some pretty good lavelier mics but if you want multiple mobile people using lavs and you can't use a boom, you could potentially invest in a Zoom H1 for each of your lav mics

Rode Videomic Pro: https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-Compact-VMP-Microphone/dp/B004K8WPUQ

I really like the quality of the audio. I've used it as my only source of audio for 4 short films as a mixer and even some foley with the onboard mics. I use it separately with a shotgun mic on a boom (just using whatever mic I can get from my school, haven't purchased one yet).

However, I wouldn't recommend it for your case of recording on your camera because you'd end up having to (and I've never tried this) rigging up a way to have it attached to your camera then lined in to the camera with the onboard mics which are fine for receptions and all but bad if you want to focus on people talking (then to fix that you'd have to attach a shotgun mic via XLR and it just becomes cumbersome).

I would honestly look into the mic that the OP has: Rode VideoMic Pro. I've never used it but it has great reviews and seems, to me, to be the best cheap solution for on-camera audio. Use it outdoors with a deadcat and Magic Lantern installed on your T2i to monitor the audio while filming and it'll be a great option for videography and short films.

OR/ALSO/HEY RICH GUY CHECK THIS OUT, you can use this JuicedLink DT414 which is designed to attach to your camera and mix up to 4 mics. Yeah...lots of options.

I really like rode video mic (see link below). I use it as a backup when shooting interviews with a dslr and h4n. It will be great to use until you get an extern recorder like a h4n. Then when you get the zoom it it a great on camera backup Incase you screw up the audio with the external recorder.

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-VideoMic-Compact-VMP-Microphone/dp/B004K8WPUQ

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Shoulder-Support-Camcorder-Camera/dp/B0036NMQ7S/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t

LensPen NLP-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007G5NNOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dSS0Db5J7BPYZ

Did you use google anytime?
https://www.google.cz/search?q=ps4+camera+extension&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&dcr=0&ei=-KuXWrrZJoOO8QeitZ1A

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Ps4-Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-VR/2255631928
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Camera-Extension-Cable-PlayStation-PS4/dp/B00JFX1IHM

https://www.amazon.com/Smatree-Ajustable-Gooseneck-Extension-Threaded/dp/B00MWNYGUS

Best bet is probably a G7 + kit lens for $797.99. If you wait a bit you might be able to find them on clearance since the G9 was just announced.

• Shoots 4k
  
• since it's mirrorless it will be nice and light.
  
• the screen can turn around for you to see when vlogging
  
• Included lens should be wide enough to see your face and a bit of your shoulders when holding at arms distance.
  
• However, it's not the greatest in low light and the megapixel count isn't too high.
  
  Use what's left to buy an external mic such as this as well as an SD card while leaving some budget for a faster lens if you so desire.
  

100% i would get the sony A7iii amazon referral links. At the price range right now it's pretty much the daddy with great image quality, stabilisation is decent enough, and sony has by far the best vlogging autofocus going at the moment. stick a rode on top and you're good to go. If you really want ultra smooth video on the move then look at something like the DJI gimbal

>It's like people who prefer to listen to vinyl because of the aesthetic. I just like doing it, even though it's more inconvenient and lower quality.

And this is why I hate it.

Stop being a stupid hipster and film in HD. At least vinyl has the advantage of being true analog-analog recording, SD is like using a cassette instead of a CD with none of the upsides (i.e. HD is more portable/durable/etc.). If you were filming with legit film (8mm, 35mm, etc.) I could respect that (if you didn't go bankrupt trying, lol).

It's not so much the actual pixel resolution (I will fight to the death that lower resolution cameras can have a far superior image quality, there is far more to a camera than how many pixels the sensor has, anyone that has seen 1080p Arri Alexa footage against most 4K footage understands), it's the fucking interlacing and 4:3 ratio. Everyone is viewing on a 16:9 progressive scan screen nowadays and combing artifacts on a progressive scan screen gives my eyes cancer. Even when you digitally de-interlace, it still only looks "OK" and is still the wrong aspect ratio. May as well film with a cell phone in portrait mode if you're going to forego standards that much.

Also, everything you said about HD cameras is your own fault/problem. There are tons of fantastic ultra-portable light weight cameras out there either through name brand GoPros or the numerous chinese knockoffs like the Firefly 7S that actually offer amazing quality and resolutions up to 4K with far better low light and contrast than a VX will ever do. They come with built-in fisheyes and a host of digital options, some including excellent digital gyros that will smooth out even a jittery filmer's hand (though the gyro does require cropping some of the viewing angle, so it's a filmer's call which is best for the situation). All you need is a $20 caddie and it's just like holding a VX.

VX's were overrated even back in the 90's/early 00's, but now they're just a dinosaur. It became this ridiculous circle jerk for no reason and it never had any merit whatsoever. You may as well record your next music album with this.