(Part 2) Best camera & photo lighting according to redditors
We found 4,186 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo lighting. We ranked the 1,389 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
$54 Greenscreen x3
$100 Better lighting
$300 Pair of chairs
$80 Sectional table
$534 total. Little pricey but the overall Viewer count would make up the difference!
Grab a corner of the house and do a "between two ferns" style of set-up. Get two nice individual chairs with a Single section table in between for some league related props and I would watch this every week.
Keep up the good work man!
Probably with one of these + a scanner + photoshop
he speaks the truth
Maybe I'll be over 100 karma comment when the giveaway closes :)
I'm very happy with my Godox gear so far. I also considered Yongnuo, but I like Godox' wireless system is a lot better. In fact, I think right now they have one of the best wireless systems on the market.
Basic setup:
A hot-shoe TTL flash is a great place to start. I'd suggest the TT350N for that; it's small and convenient to carry. It's strong enough to light up a dark room, and to overpower ambient lights. If you use it as a bounce flash, you don't really need any other accessories.
I use the TT350 for all the bounce photography. Bounce is very simple and convenient. Its small size is very handy here, because it doesn't throw off the camera balance or really get in the way.
I personally bought the V860II-N as my first speedlight. I realized it was a beast when it arrived; way more flash than I needed on my hot-shoe. Here's a size comparison: http://imgur.com/a/jFpvM
I'm glad I have it though; it's great in multi-point lighting and it's nice to have a more powerful option should I need it.
Off-camera setup:
The next step up from there is to move the flash off-camera. For that, you'll need a stand, a head, and a light modifier.
You can use a tripod, but a light stand is a lot simpler to setup and break-down. To mount a light to the stand, you'll need and either a hot-shoe adapter or the flash foot. The simplest and cheapest modifier is a photography umbrella. You'll need a mount to attach an umbrella to the stand, though most hot-shoe adapters will also hold the umbrella.
I use the Godox S mount adapter and a soft-box. The benefit of the adapter is that it can use other Bowens mount light modifiers if I want to try them in the future. It also holds an umbrella.
You'll also need a way to trigger the flash. You can use your on-board flash for this, but I went with the Godox X1 trigger. This is a radio trigger, and does TTL. It cost $40. A very nice thing about the X1 trigger is that it can control the speedlights remotely; I can change power and other settings from my camera, which cuts down a lot of back-and-forth. It's also a lot more reliable and convenient than using an optical trigger.
Multi-point setup:
The next step after that is multi-point lighting. If you already have a speedlight, radio trigger, etc. All you really need are more flash heads. The nice thing about multi-point lighting is that they don't all need to be the same speedlight. Usually, you use different power levels and modifiers anyway. In my case, I have a big powerful speedlight, and a small portable speedlight. When I'm out and about, I can grab whichever is best for the job.
You can use manual (non-TTL) flashes for multi-point lighting. This is best if you don't intend to use ambient as a light source or don't mind fiddling to balance ambient with the flash. A lot of Godox's manual flashes still have built in wireless support, which makes them a good inexpensive solution.
The sky is the limit:
From there, there's a whole world of lighting. Strobes powerful enough to make the sun look dim, lighting modifiers, etc.
Quick edit: A number of companies resell Godox' products. Flashpoint is the most prolific, but there's also Bolt, Neewer, and a couple others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20
That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.
Now for a background setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC
Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.
Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.
Since your monitors are not the same model, it's going to be very challenging to get them to look the same.
You should probably get a color calibrator if you actually want them to look the same.
If you can't afford that, there are cheaper calibration tools. Just look around. You can also, of course, just tweak the color settings manually until they look the same using Nvidia Control Panel / Catalyst Control Center. You can also try to just use the built in Windows color calibration, which I find very hard to be consistent with. What models are your screens? Somebody may have made color calibration profiles for them. They won't be perfectly tailored to your screens, but they should come pretty close.
The mic isn't actually the problem - you need a shock mount, something like this although if you have a different microphone you might need a different type.
Just because you have a decent monitor doesn't mean it is showing anything in the correct colors, saturation, or anything else. If you want it right, you need to calibrate your monitor. People constantly buy these expensive monitors and leave the settings at default, or worse fiddle without knowing what they are doing.
You can use one of these or hire someone.
$3000 computer for a videographer... only spends $180 on a 21" monitor? ಠ_ಠ No. No. Nope.
SLI is pretty much useless for video editing (very hit & miss depending on the software) and only adds unnecessary heat and cost to the rig. Drop one of those 780s and focus that money on a quality 24-27" IPS screen and hardware color calibration! (stay the hell away from those budget 4k TN screens)
Edit: Also, if OP is used to their MBP keyboard, I'd recommend picking up a wired Apple keyboard. Personally, I find them much less fatiguing on my fingers. It makes for a seamless transition (if you're still using the MPB) and goes a long way to make your Hackintosh feel more native.
Edit 2: After some very surface level searching, here are some much better monitors the OP should put their money towards: HP 24" z24x P-IPS ,Dell 27" U2713HM P-IPS and Asus 27" PB278Q P-IPS. If it can't come close to 100% sRGB, it's shit. Oh and the monitor color calibrator.
Until you can afford some scangrips or similar, you can build these for around $60 each on Amazon.
Stand | Mount | Bulbs
/u/TooTurntGaming - I would avoid Canon DSLRs for video. Even if you deliver a 1080p product, you don't want to be limited by their 1080/30p maximum resolution and frame rate. Nor do you want a camera with a maximum 30 minute continuous video recording time for wedding ceremonies.
[Here] (https://youtu.be/J4FDn8YX4Ao) is why you want to record at 4K. And [here] (https://youtu.be/kIf9h2Gkm_U) is why material originated at 4K looks better on a 1080p monitor than material originated at 1080p.
With a $2000 budget, you can afford two 4K cameras with hours of continuous recording (one with in-body stabilization). Here is the two-camera wedding setup I recommend (cameras, lenses, lighting, audio recorder and tripod included):
With this setup, you can give your assistant the G7 - or, when you're shooting solo, put the G7 on the tripod and shoot smooth handheld with the G85.
Here are a few examples of the image quality you can get from Panasonic cameras and Meike lenses:
And the G85 cuts together with the G7 very well, as seen here:
Hope this is helpful and good luck with your new videography business!
I agree with u/greypowerOz, I'd definitely start looking into off-camera flashes! My favorite OFCs are actually super affordable, they're the Neewer TT560 and they're great starter flashes. You can also gel them really easily with a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG. It's a sample cine gel pack; I got mine for free in film school but they're wicked cheap and the perfect size for flashes.
http://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
Photoshop.
Here ya go!
Dont know what that other guy is on about. But these photos are taken using a special camera with multiple lenses, like this.
Also check out /r/wigglegrams for more like it.
I asked about a picture Rocky posted a few months ago if you want to check out the thread
I always just assumed N8000s sold for cheap because, despite the 4-lens thing, they are obviously as shitty as a camera gets.
But nope. $400 on Amazon.
It's actually fairly simple. You need a calibration device (i've heard good things about this or this , I personally use one of a firm that no longer exists on monitors which probably don't even deserve calibration) and software which can talk to it. Most software is pretty self-explanatory and generates a color profile for your monitor, usually in an .icc file. You can then hand this .icc file to your operating system configuration. If your postprocess stack is color managed, you should then get reproducable colors. There are a lot more subtilities like colorimeter ($) vs spectrometer ($$$) and such.
I'm looking for a monitor calibration tool. Amazon and B&H Photo both list several devices anywhere from $40 to $400. Any opinions on what makes the more expensive ones better? I'm just going to be using it so that I can soft proof my photos; they've been turning out very badly when I have them printed.
Edit: The one I'm specifically looking at now is the entry level Munki Smile. The reviews are all over the place, from "works perfectly" to "turned my screen green." Anyone used this?
Mind sharing a link to your mic stand? Also, I found a different mic shock mount for the yeti because I didn't like how wide their official one was - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1
Pretty much! It’s an LED light wand from Amazon. Helps me see potholes + looks cool.
YONGNUO YN360 LED Video Light with Adjustable Color Temperature 3200K-5500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C3mLDbX4TD92T
Pretty sure he uses this camera. He's definitely using 35mm film.
https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
I scan all of my RGD drawings and primarily work in graphite. I use a canoscan 8600f but I believe they have updated the model to the 9000. It works pretty well. Sometimes the dark pencils (the ole' 9b) can get reflective, particularly when you mix media and they are drawn on a dark surface. The only way to avoid that is to make a whole elaborate setup. Black felt behind the art. Studio lighting. Then you can spread you light sources so wide they won't reflect as much.
By that point, if you aren't working to large, it's easier to just scan and use a white balance card. Just include that little guy into the scan and use the black, white, and grey eyedropper tools in the "levels" settings in Photoshop. Any reflections, you can edit out to make it match the real values of the drawing.
_Dead's suggestion with the shade is the best method for shooting on a larger scale and don't have the resources for a fancy pants setup. Cell phones won't have the best camera for shooting the art but you gotta use what you gotta use.
Just remember, even with a white balance card, the most important thing is making sure the lighting is EVEN. Try your best to make sure there are no hot-spots of light because that is the most difficult to adjust later.
I can go into more detail on fancy pants rigs if needed.
I thing your best bet would be to change the color temprature, the right one looks to be set to cool and the left one appears warmer(in the picture atleast). Also try messing with color management in windows. Otherwise you need to get something fancy like this (X-Rite CMUNSML ColorMunki Smile https://www.amazon.in/dp/B009APMNB0) which i am assuming you're not gonna.
What your looking for is something to cast soft-light on your workspace.
Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-60cmx60cm-Softbox-Diffuser-Fluorescent/dp/B00LTNKKVG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511945500&sr=1-4&keywords=soft+light+lamp
Plug in one of these bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/Bonlux-Daylight-Balanced-Spectrum-Photography/dp/B01EFK7XE6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8X7REXZN8369RAC069WP
And mount it on one of these stands:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5ZF30F2MDZM6ZJQBSG0Z
Have it cast light onto your workspace. You can probably find a smaller box and stand. You might even consider getting two of them for better lighting and eliminating shadows from your arm. The lighting will also help you as an artist becuase it casts white-light instead of a warm yellow, which can affect how you see colors at night.
Believe the hype. I almost listened to a couple Youtube 'pundits' trash them, but I think they're just going for controversy clicks (looking at you, Angry Photographer, and your consistently terrible advice). lol I'm glad I read reviews.
I'm using this Godox softbox, which mounts just like an umbrella (because it basically is). I also have a dual-head Bowens mount that I've yet to try (partly because I haven't needed the extra power yet).
I've got no real setup to show ya, partly because I'm still experimenting with all the modifiers I bought (they're so cheap!!), but also because a fluid setup is really its advantage. Every single shoot is different because the lights are so easy to move around, and quickly turn off and on. They're like shooting with SB900 flashes, only much more powerful and a much more reliable RF transmitter. Oh, and they recycle unbelievably quickly. I'm shooting bursts and they don't even break a sweat. And they have high speed sync, which my Einsteins, incredibly, do not.
I second this and personally have some Neewer Bi-color panels are they are pretty good, as well as bright. $160 for 2 lights, bags, and stands + AC power adapters (no batteries), but they do work with standard Sonys, can't recommend them enough IMO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=psdc_3109915011_t1_B072Q42GXQ
I bought this Viltrox VL-162T based on /u/maukka's measurements and positive opinion of the related L116T. I know it's not a flashlight, but it runs on batteries, can be handheld and makes light, so I think it goes here. No, that does not make it OK to post your new phone.
This is intended to be a camera light. It can run on a Sony NP-F battery or a 12V, 2.1mm barrel plug. It has hot shoe mounts and 1/4" anchor points. My Opus BT-C3100 power supply works with it, for example. I bought this power supply from Banggood for it, but do not recommend it. The first one failed entirely. Banggood sent a replacement, which does not seem to maintain its voltage under load; it will power the Viltrox panel, but has problems with the Opus charger. I also added this cheap mini tripod which I do not recommend for this application because it's not wide enough for satisfactory stability with this light on it.
I believe these use Yuji BC series 5mm LEDs, and the light produced is beautiful at all color temperature settings (3300-5600K claimed). It's rare you'll see this from me, but I don't think this light needs more Nichia. These emitters are perfect as they are.
What it does need is more 18650. I soldered and glued an 18650 carrier where the NP-F battery is meant to go. It runs for 80 minutes on a pair of HG2s, staying over 90% output the whole time and shuts off without warning at about 7.0V. The display blinks at this point to indicate low battery. Given that, it's not safe for the batteries to leave unattended indefinitely, but I bet two 18650s at 3.5V can power that blinking display for a long time before they get over-discharged. Plugging in a power supply results in voltage across the battery contacts, but only a few microamps of current will flow between them. It will not charge the batteries.
Claimed output is 1070 lumens. That seems about right, but I don't have a way to integrate a light this size. There's a diffuser included, but it seems to dim the light more than spread it. I haven't found it useful.
This thing is awesome. It makes a great room light or desk lamp with appropriate power and mounting accessories. That it's battery capable makes it even better. I've been using it in the bathroom when I shave because there are no outlets and I'm not satisfied with the fixed lighting. My only complaint is that the minimum output is 20%, and I'd like it lower.
I believe the best one is the Sypder4Pro, they're $150 new. You might be able to buy a used one off eBay for around $100.
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8/
Do you have an IPS monitor? If not, you should think of investing in one of those as well, especially if you're printing a lot.
Datacolor Spyder4Express:
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Express-S4X100-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342633794&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder4express
The pro is 50$ more but may be worth it as it does a better job (Slightly) and can configure multiple displays:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TF37H8
Hi /u/picrh - Here's a great review/tutorial on what you can achieve with a 3 point ring light setup using the Diva Ring Light: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html
But instead of Divas, you might want to consider three battery powered F&V R-300s with stands instead.
You can get three [F&V ring lights with soft boxes for $269.99 each at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/FVSBBRLR300.html?KBID=66297).
Three ring lights, with 3 stands ([2 for $22] (http://amzn.to/1vjJXtl) and a [single for $15] (http://amzn.to/1tlfUDo)), 3 [$10 Sony FP-batteries] (http://amzn.to/1vjKvQ1) and an [$18.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=111315155908&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) will give you a great 3 point lighting setup for less than $900.
The great thing about the R-300 is that you can put it on your rig with a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297), as seen here: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG
This is something you cannot do with the Diva.
I have both the Diva and the R-300, and they both put out a lot of cool, even light, but the F&Vs are much more portable (because they are so much smaller) and more flexible (because they can be AC or DC powered). Here's a pic of both lights in my studio: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG
Good luck!
These aren't tubes but are one the most used pieces of lighting equipment in our production bag:
The Yongnuo Light Saber:
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=yongnuo+light&qid=1564150579&s=gateway&sr=8-5
This sexy handheld mofo can dial in daylight, tungsten, RGB and everything in between. Its cheap and adds such a vibe. Once again not tubes but could be used in a similar fashion. Highly recommend.
These don't look too bad for LEDs. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=neewer+led+lights&qid=1574087935&sr=8-9
Or this, https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Reflector-Continuous-Recording-Photography/dp/B07PBG17PG/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=neewer+led+lights&qid=1574088078&sr=8-13 (But you will probably need a scrim to defuse light with that)
These light stands are what I use (pack of 2): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=light+stands&qid=1563245217&s=gateway&sr=8-4
And you'll want these for the stands as well (pack of 2): https://www.amazon.com/UTEBIT-Removable-Lightweight-Ballhead-Camcorder/dp/B07KF7TTZ1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=light+stand+adapter&qid=1563245324&s=gateway&sr=8-7
These are taken with a special film camera called Nishika N8000 3-D Camera
About $17.99 over a lifetime. Probably got it on flex pay.
I'm still organizing it, but my "kit" includes:
There's probably more, but that's all I can think of for now.
FUTURE ITEMS:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/iontrades/lite-studio-all-in-one-photo-studio-and-3d-scanner
http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422224655&sr=8-1&keywords=green+screen&pebp=1422224658960&peasin=B001PCQTDO
Actually they cost about half as much
I bought something very similar to this. The lights, stand, and softbox are about the same.
http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Digital-Continuous-Softbox-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2
>In your subjective opinion, is a hardware-calibrated monitor significantly more beautiful than a software-tweaked one, and is it worth the $150 or so it'd cost for a colorimeter?
Yes, absolutely. Having spent the money I consider it worth every penny. Once you know calibrated reference color, you can't go back. Our eyes will readjust and compensate for a lot of differences over time. Those who like using f.lux, for example, often comment on not noticing it's effects after a while.
This is because f.lux is basically an automated color profile changer. It goes from a higher color temperature (7K/6500K or so) down to a very low color temperature as it approaches night time. This makes sense, since the human eye tends to view colors a bit cooler under lower lighting conditions.
While f.lux can feel pleasing, it's does result in inaccurate colors. If you wanted an f.lux like experience with accurate color, you would create a profile for each lighting condition your room has. Primarily an 'overhead lights on' profile calibrated for 6500K 2.2 gamma, and a 'lights off' profile that might be something like 5500K 2.2 gamma.
I consider this a bit overkill though, I stick to one daytime profile, and I have a fluorescent bulb in my overhead that is more of a 'daytime' color temperature. Photo studios go to extremes and use high end monitors with hoods to reduce direct light from hitting the screen, and they have accurate color temperature bulbs of a known brightness.
Personally though, I think one of the better advantages to calibration is also setting the luminance level. Lots of LED backlit monitors can get REALLY bright, but brightness is only beneficial under really harsh lighting conditions, and often washes out the color. Monitors also tend to overgain the colors a bit on high lighting conditions, so you lose some accuracy.
The best way to calibrate, imo, is to 120 cd/m2. This is a nice, even brightness, and while somewhat 'dim looking' at first is quickly compensated by your eyes and brain. This also tends to reduce eye strain. In addition, lots of monitors now can go 200 cd/m2 and up, so by having the brightness significantly lower than its maximum, you often reap the benefit of more accurate color.
As far as a tool, I ended up getting the Spyder4Studio, because I knew I was going to need a printer profiler also and it saved me money.
For your purposes I would go with the Spyder4Pro since it's the same hardware as the Spyder4Elite, only limited by software license. You also get to use it on multiple monitors, vs the 1 monitor limitation of the Spyder4Express.
If you end up needing the features of the Spyder4Elite later, you can just upgrade the software package (I'm not sure if it's more expensive that way vs buying the Elite outright, though).
The most important piece of a good calibration is a monitor with even backlighting and great color range, gradation, and accuracy at different luminance levels.
To get a real good calibration you're going to need a colorimeter. They are pretty expensive. Most IPS monitors claiming to be good for design work are factory calibrated, which makes it mostly unnecessary to do it yourself.
Some computer shops will have a service offered to calibrate the colors; quality varies.
The cheapest way is to use the built-in calibration that Windows has. If you have a good eye and some good color swatches, you can get a halfway decent calibration.
Here's a good range to look at, in USD:
$2600
$1400
$800 + $170
$400 + $170 The monitor's not in stock yet, but they also have a $500 one available with a few more bells and whistles, but without the new enclosure.
Although older the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) is an inexpensive option depending on your region:
If you're in the UK/Europe, the Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS (S5X100) might be cheaper though:
Note some of those are/might be sale prices due to Cyber Monday!
Failing that, just search your local Amazon and check out reviews of the cheaper options. They all work about the same for non-pro users.
Edit: I just purchased the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) as I couldn't pass up the Canadian sale price today. If you want to use newer, open source software with more options look into DisplayCAL, but check the Supported Instruments for colorimeter support.
If you need accurate colours, you should be calibrating your displays (which should be IPS or similar technology panels) with hardware like this.
If you can't afford that, Windows has inbuilt colour calibration but you'll just be doing it by eye so it won't be properly accurate. If you have a decent smartphone (newer iPhone or Samsung high end device in "Basic" picture mode especially) that should be a reasonably accurate comparison point.
Color calibration, bro. Get yourself a cheap calibrator like this one and use dispcalGUI to calibrate and profile your monitors. Works a charm.
No matter what kind of lens you use, it really comes down to lighting. Properly diffused lighting. I would spend the $150-200 on a pair of strobes like this and product box like this. You'll also need this to fire the speedlights. It all comes out to about $135 before shipping.
Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458791907&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+flash
I've been using it for a few weeks now and love it. Wifi has latency issues, but this is instant RF, way better.
At that budget, get some manual offname speedlights, and some cheap 28in umbrellas. They are far from the best things out there, but even the junk has its place, and that place is on shoestring budgets. As for backdrop, go to walmart, and pick up some queen or king size bedsheets of the walmart brand. Get one thats close to middle grey if possible. A middle grey sheet with a speed light and a color gel will become whatever color your gel is. I bought the strobist pack of gels, so my one sheet instantly becomes the whole rainbow. The reality is that $150 is a drop in the bucket of a proper studio, but there are plenty of budget ways of doing things. If you want even cheaper lighting, at the trade off of control, go to your local hardware store and pick up some of the $5 work lights that look like more like a bowl from your kitchen than a proper light. Continuous light can still be plenty useful but can be a little trickier to set up, and dealing with spill can be a pain. $2 foam core project boards make great dirt cheap reflectors and flags. You best bet at that budget is to think more DIY than "what can I buy". Try things and experiment. I have spent almost as much money at HomeDepot making my own lighting modifiers as I have on buying actual modifiers, and the results aren't really much different between my homebrew and the actual gear.
edit: Here's some links!
AmazonBasics speedlight $28 (x2, ~$60)
flash triggers, $15
two shoot-through, two silver reflectives, two gold reflectives, w/stands and carry bag $57
so that puts us at ~$135 right there
grey bedsheet $15
cheap gel kit $8
So add in tax and shipping, and there's your $150 budget plus a few bucks extra.
Now like I said you can do continuous light a little cheaper.
Here are some lights, modifiers, stands, and backdrops for $97
The key here is this is all "junk". That doesnt mean dont use it. I have a bunch of stuff from kits like these. But dont be surprised if an umbreallas silver lining separates off, or a softbox develops a tear in it. They just arnt made to the same standards as "pro" gear, but you can get just as good results with it if you take your time to learn what you are doing, and accept the downfalls of what you are buying and work around them. Work in your budget and develop your skills more. You will either pursue it further and buy better stuff later, or like me, still have the cheap off name junk because it works fine and you would rather spend money on glass than umbrellas.
It's a Rode PSA1 arm with this shock mount
I didn't like the look of the Radius shock mount from Blue.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511134275&sr=8-1&keywords=light+stand
I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)
Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7
White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8
Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6
Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT
I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?
Photography light stands (something like this) might be your best bet. I've used these with the lighthouses in the past for less-permanent VR setups, and just ziptied them to the top. Worked great!
Recommend light tripods (as in tripods for lights for photography) for the base stations. Plus mounts to rotate them for each.
Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY?keywords=photography+light+tripod&qid=1537408011&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1
And this
https://www.amazon.com/EXMAX-Aluminum-Rotating-Lighter-Camcorder/dp/B012FTXOW4?keywords=rotating+camera+mount+tripod&qid=1537408217&sr=8-2&ref=mp_s_a_1_2
Don’t have these exact products so I can’t vouch for them.
Oh and you may want to consider some cleaning wipes and maybe disposable VR covers. Sweaty headset is gross.
These are the lights I got. Six of them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U
I'm pretty happy with the test we did today, night and day difference.
Ring lights are fine for close ups and interview shots, but not what you're trying to do. You should invest in these. They are relatively cheap. They are RGB LEDs, and you can control from an app.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can use any standard Sony NP-F series battery, or these power supplies.
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-American-Standard-Adapter-Switching/dp/B00OHHTTVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=YONGNUO+power+supply&qid=1570647093&s=electronics&sr=1-3
It may sound like a large investment, but they are very cheap compared to professional lighting. You can buy one at a time, and add as you need to. They are very durable, I've had about 6 of them for several years, and they always come in clutch on a shoot.
Simple three point lighting is (Key, Fill, Rim.) The key and fill go to the left and right of the camera array, and the rim be high, behind the subject (when you look at the shot this light is creating a glowing rim around your subject.)
Either you get a fixture that is not hanging low like spotlights or led's, or you take it off the ceiling altogether and come up with a different approach.
I mounted spotlights on top (not very bright tbh) have leds behind my TV and monitor (Self adhesive usb led strips), Philips living colors lamps around that give me mood light and when I need really bright light I have those battery powered lights on cheap stands (come handy everywhere, garden etc.)
Lumen ratings are often exaggerated, although I suppose it could be possible that a dual head light of the size of the one you linked could put out 14,000 lumens since the heads appear to be big enough to provide quite a bit of surface area for cooling.
I keep seeing the Home Depot Husky brand LED worklights stashed in various places at work. However, I've never seen anybody actually using one, and the maybe 3 times I've taken a moment to try one myself, it's been dead. So those don't seem like a very good option.
This might be different than what you're looking for, but I'll mention it because they're somewhat similar and get discussed here occasionally - Viltrox high CRI panels. Several users here have and like them for the natural looking light they produce. They're intended for photography and videography, and not as bright as halogen worklights, but with relatively low size and weight and minimal heat, you can position them safely much closer to whatever you're working on, and they can run both off of AC power or camcorder batteries.
There's a little version that puts out 1000 lumens, and a larger version, rated for 2500 lumens.
Here are some options.
Cheap godox flash
godox flash that has TTL which is like auto mode for a flash just get the version for your camera brand (Sony, Nikon, canon)
Godox transmitter, again, get the one for your camera. There’s also the x1t for about $20 less.
lightstand
S bracket for holding speedlight
softbox. There’s lots of options for softboxes out there...
For a cheaper option than a softbox use an umbrella
The lights you linked are nice, but probably far more than you need for what you want to do. Do you already have a plain white wall with no extraneous light source? (windows, etc.) If so, what's in your picture is pretty simple. Basic 3 point lighting (key/fill/back) will do the trick with 2 extra dimmable lights for the background. Softboxes are nice but diffusion will work just fine. In recent years we've switched to color-shifting dimmable LED panels for pretty much everything. these lights are dirt cheap, have black barndoors, and color shift between warm/cool, tungsten/daylight, 3200k/5600k, whatever your preferred terminology is:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QB3K9T/
We have 4 of them and they're fantastic. You probably don't even need the diffusion really but old habits die hard. If I were you I'd get 3 of them plus 2 for the background and you can reproduce that look exactly. (if you already have something you can use for fill or back you can prob get away with 4.)
I assume you already know 3 point lighting, but if not there are plenty of tutorials online.
EDIT - the lights I linked don't come with lights stands, but if you don't already have them here's some cheap ones: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68
I use adjustable lighting stands: AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IxbDCbT8HZ5FD
While not required, I also would purchase a LUX meter like this.
Based on what a typical UVA/UVB reptile light puts out, the target intensity is between 8-9K LUX. I have a meter for other reasons but when I play with my Cham lighting, it's a good tool to have.
Believe it or not, a minimum of between 3 and 120 μW/cm2 for lighting is about all that is needed to prevent MBD. Here is a long read on the subject. Studies are tricky though. It's very difficult to get pure "lab conditions" in a home setting, so take it as you may.
This may be corrected when actually I do the conversion between μW/cm2 and/or μm/cm2 to LUX. I'll do that when I get out of bed this morning. Spitballing 8-9K LUX does seem right though.
Edit: 120 μW/cm2 is about 820 LUX, but you are not going to get ideal heating from that intensity.
They look healthy, imo. Patience, they're developing.
Check these out
https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-use-a-lux-meter-to-increase-your-cannabis-yields-n977
Check this out at Amazon.com
URCERI Light Meter Digital Illuminance Meter Handheld Ambient Temperature Measurer with Range up to 200,000 Lux Luxmeter with 4 Digit Color LCD Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4yeUCb8MFS7XF
And light meters are cheap!
I bought this one to check brightness and distance when I use plant lights in my house:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DC6X25/
I pickup up a set of these a little while back:
Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It was like $5. I pulled all of the shades of orange to find what works best with my phone/lights.
As a bonus there's a bunch of reds that you can cover your flashlight with to do some night creeping!
Depends on the desk specs I would assume and if you want them to face outward towards the user. You’ll need something rigid to tack/attach the diffusion material and custom form it to the edge of the desk (if I’m understanding that correct, that is).
There are diffusion gels (they’re like thin plastic sheets - paper thin) and fabrics (typically used in photography) that you can cut and wrap around a frame. Order a Rosco Swatch Book to see what would work for you.
Or you can do indirect placement and put it under/behind the desk. Don’t necessarily need diffusion if you’re hitting the wall or something since you 1. Would be using the wall as a sort of diffusion and 2. Won’t be looking at it directly. Unless you can see hot spots/uneven light spread, you may not need anything.
Overall, I would recommend an aluminum rail LED strip housing with diffusion insert. I would recommend these for almost every home LED project, outside of anything drastic which would require much more work. This is the easiest and best looking solution.
Seriously, get yourself a Yongnuo. They're like, $40, and functionally similar to any branded speedlight. A demo pack of stage gels to slide over the strobe, maybe even a cheap as chips speedlight trigger, and you're set up for about 90% of speedlight work for less than a quarter of the price of an actual Nikon speedlight alone.
There's literally no reason to not go for it, and it opens up your shooting a lot.
Two of them:
First has one has multiple copies of commonly used ones (reddish, cyan, straw, CTO, CTB, etc) and they're a hair bigger (sized for speedlights)
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Strobist-Collection-1-5x3-25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/
This one is the original with one of everything they make (it was the original hack recommended on strobist).
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/
I got some stick on velcro and use those to attach them to my speedlights.
Here is a sample pack for $2.99 on Amazon.
Looks like a /r/wigglegram. There's cameras that are able to take multiple shots simultaneously like the Nishika N8000: they have multiple lenses and each one takes 1/2 of a 35mm frame (4 lenses, so it uses 2 frames worth of 35mm film per shot). I personally own a Nishika, but I've heard that the Nimslo models are superior regarding features.
After you get your photos developed, you put them into Photoshop or whatnot, layer them, and animate them back and forth and save them as a gif.
Not sure which camera was used for sure, but the 3D effect is done by using a stereoscopic camera like this.
It has four lenses so when you take a photo you get four slightly different angles that you can use to make a gif like what you showed.
it looks like a quadroscopic film camera. i've seen other people use them for music vids / gifs etc. i know somebody with this one, it produces the exact effect: https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
edit: for doing the same effect on moving video, i'd suggest 4 gopros rigged as closely together as possible.
You don't need a special fabric. It just has to be green. Here's what I found just from a quick search on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Backdrop-Chromakey-6x9-background/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1320200034&sr=8-2
>we usually film outside in public places
In that case invest in some light-shaping materials: flags, nets, diffusion, bounces. Even just buying a few of these would be a good investment.
I think lighting is important if you are planning to conduct interviews with lots of people as sometimes natural lighting may be quite risky. This link is for two softbox lights for £50. I haven't used these but I plan on buying them in the future and they are reasonably cheap and have good reviews
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Abeststudio-Continuous-Lighting-Photography-Softboxes/dp/B01F59NSX6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502643124&sr=8-5&keywords=softbox+lighting
At the very least I would get a 5 in 1 reflector kit just to get even lighting for interviews. Only £11
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Translucent-Collapsible-Reflector-Photography-Situation/dp/B002ZIVKAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502643168&sr=8-1&keywords=5in+one+reflector
Then I would get either the Zoom h1 and the Rode Videomic or just the Rode VideoMic Pro with the +20db setting on (both come to around £140). However you may be able to get away with your mic on a stand right above or below the interviewee. You'll have to do more researching as I don't know about microphones for interviews.
As for other things I think that would mainly be it.
They are softboxes for lighting my green screen. I've started streaming to twitch in my spare time.
No problem at all!
Here are some I found:
Basics ( 2 main stands and a mini one, umbrellas, bulbs, everything you need )
http://www.amazon.com/Cowboystudio-Photography-Portrait-Continuous-Umbrellas/dp/B003WLY24O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373804988&sr=8-1&keywords=studio+lighting
If you're needing soft boxes:
http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Digital-Continuous-Softbox-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373805007&sr=8-3&keywords=studio+lighting
Less related to the build itself, but in a budget like this, I thought I'd point it out. For photo editing, you're gonna want a monitor with good color gamut. The previously advised PG279Q will work pretty good.
More importantly than having a good monitor is having an accurate monitor. With a $3000 budget, please at the very least spare the $90 for this colorimeter to make sure the colors are accurate. Your wife may or may not already be aware of this, but regardless, make sure this gets done!
I picked up a calibrator for my monitor, the ColorMunki Smile (https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNSML-ColorMunki-Smile/dp/B009APMNB0) and have already calibrated it using the X-rite software, however would like to calibrate using DisplayCAL.
When I load up DisplayCal I cannot get the calibrator itself to show up under the devices tab in DisplayCAL. I know the computer recognizes it because I was able to use the X-rite software but for some reason it's not showing up in DisplayCAL. Any advice or opinions are appreciated!
If anyone is looking for a monitor calibration device. The colormonki smile is at its lowest price ever on Amazon. Currently $35 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009APMNB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Any standard hotshoe radio trigger should work.
It won't have anything like TTL, HSS or rear curtain capabilities, but they're cheap and cheerful, and work.
this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U
The sunshield will work, but it's pretty small - for softening light, it's the bigger and closer the source, the softer the light. Those 4x8' foam insulation panels cut in half are popular, or a frame with fabric stretched on it, or the round popups. Thing is, you need someone to hold them -they look more natural when held up and angled a bit upward - look at youtube videos. And when you're shooting, you can grab one and lift and angle it and watch the subject to find the sweet spot. You can also use a stand and something like a grip head to angle them, but if it's breezy they can be a problem, especially popups.
Scrim used as overheads are harder - you need someone to hold them WAY up or a pair of stands, they can slow you down. Look at these pics for ideas:
overhead
larger
when the sun is lower
stands
For fill flash, it often looks more natural off-camera - you can get a cheap bracket that attaches the flash to the stands and has an umbrella mount - then you just need a way to synch the flash, either a cable or a cheap chinese radio synch (like $30). Those are cool because you can leave it somewhat assembled as you move around. You won't have TTL with that, though I think there are some wireless TTL solutions out there.
I have this $15 cheapie and it's actually pretty good a reliable, but it won't fire with some of my vintage stuff, mainly big RB lenses.
Taking a flash off your camera just requires a transmitter and a receiver. You can get very inexpensive ones that work pretty well for under $20. Or even just a flash cable. Then you put the flash on a clip or a stand and put it where you want it and then use as normal. (Be sure to get a transmitter that's made to work with your camera brand, since each flash mount works different)
Obviously taking any of this stuff up a wall will add danger and complexity, and a big diffuser will lower your light output and won't make much of a difference from any meaningful distance (more than 15 feet or so) but from here, you'll have to experiment and see what works for you!
I personally have the Rode PSA1 + a Blue Yeti Mic and the official Shock Mount "The Radius 2", and it holds everything perfectly.
If you want however a more simple mount and not the beautiful yet massive Mount, i would recommend getting this one: http://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ
Just in case you want to check it, this is mine (Old Setup pre DualMonitor Setup but servers the Post: http://imgur.com/apOQCBQ
Cheers
Letsremax
something like this might work: http://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ
the boom arm you where thinking of should work.
I think it was this one, but it was 3 years ago that I bought it so I don't actually remember lol
https://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1492825005&sr=8-31&keywords=blue+yeti+shockmount
Desk arms it fits no problem, but back when I got my yeti in 2012 this shock mount was available for purchase but looks like they stopped making it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Honestly the sound of the typing isn't the real issue, but the issue is with the vibrations from it.
http://i.imgur.com/WqRzeHZ.jpg
What I recommend is picking up a good shock mount for it as it will negate this issue (and also get whatever stand/boom you want to pick up. I use this stand since I don't have a place to anchor a boom)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MYIIRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sadly that mount I have (which is solid metal) is no longer for sale.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are plenty of other comparable ones however, just make sure it uses a standard 5/8inch thread.
if you're in a controlled environment and starting off but want some flexibility instead of like throw away lights, I'd recommend these. I picked these up before I started working with lighting to start upping the quality of my sets for a reasonable price.
Hopefully this fulfills your needs.
The panels come by themselves so you'd need light stands and batteries/ac adapters.
15W LED panel with controllable WB, brightness, ok diffuser, with excellent build quality and light quality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VDOGX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WMBACbR8EQH95
These are the stands i use with it
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_of_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00K69A0QY&pd_rd_r=4d2f8b3c-32ed-11e9-9916-7fe6d01b346e&pd_rd_w=RqPSv&pd_rd_wg=khx5z&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=HAKTWDZ21BWGF51HWG43&psc=1&refRID=WC3EXZSZCRPV77880CEX
This a charger/batteries for it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMFZ9CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EWBACbG88NJT0
CN-216 $64.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010FELA9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751532&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216
Soft box $8.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OXCGA28/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751532&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216&dpPl=1&dpID=41HFsj%2BBBzL&ref=plSrch
Filters $9.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZP45V8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751737&sr=8-1-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216+filter
Stand $18.99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K69A0QY/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511751838&sr=8-1-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+216+stand
Total: $103
If you're doing video, you want constant lights - really, really big ones. If you're using fluorescents, you want really good bulbs like these units from Eiko,, perhaps in a couple of four-bulb umbrella holders with Godox umbrella softboxes.
Alternately, big damn incandescents (700W+) are powerful, have great color (100CRI,) and zero intercompatibility issues. They're hot as hell, though.
A pair of YN360 light wands are also a good choice, but not so much if you want to cover a large area.
I used one of these cheap 30 inch umbrella style octa-softbox. I used it without the diffuser since its an indirect softbox anyway, wanted more specular look since it was sunny out plus saved my light the work of having to put out extra power for the same exposure.
Also used a 1/2 CTB gel on the flash since I am shooting them in the shade. This helps warm up the photo and keeps the shadow side of my subjects faces closer to the same WB as the lit side.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_i\_OiArDbD2DT7J9
I went with what /u/Ematai suggested and ordered these
Nice! Thats the same mic I have.
​
lighting is a bit of a struggle, I got some led panels but rarely use them, Most of the time I've been shooting in daylight and interiors with big windows
when I have shot night stuff, I've preferred going for harsh, single source lighting with lots of shadow, since I'd rather go for style than trying to make it look well lit cinematically. This is the one I have
In my opinion strongly colored stylistic lighting looks better than poor normal lighting so I also picked up a bunch of colored ones.
I just got this light and so far it fkin rocks. You can probably find something for half the price if you look hard, but this thing puts out a lot. I plan on getting a second in the future.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MI5VMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Other than that check out YouTube. It's a well of content and there are honestly too many to list.
Next Level Painting
Jack of Clubs Painting
Slow Fuse Gaming
Sonic Sledgehammer
Midwinter Minis
Also TWITCH. A lot of people streaming live content and will take questions from viewers as they're working. I pretty much always have someone running on screen while I'm building/painting.
If you want to go one step further, there are people who do private solo or group classes thru Patreon.
I noticed that keeping back lighting on my editing workstation helps keep my eyes adjusted by evening out the direction of light piercing my eye balls all day/night long. They’re adjustable colors too which helps a lot when I go into color correction/grading. I’m using a couple of these - YONGNUO YN360 LED
Thank you!
these are the lights very versatile !!!
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=younguo+led&qid=1557668678&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell
I have a Lowel Ego and a Yongnuo wand light and it's worked out really well for me. The Lowel and a reflector is enough for most shots while the Yongnuo is a backup in case the shot location doesn't have a plug
I think the only cordless work lights which make sense are the 18v power tool ones. That Milwaukee should be decent, but if you own a cordless drill from a different brand, you should look there, as well - every brand offers something similar. They're all built tough as hell, and the battery packs are easily replaced (even though they're proprietary, they're always available). All the other cordless work lights are either sleek all-in-one homeowner-grade stuff at the hardware store, which works great for a while but probably can't be repaired or rebuilt when the batteries die, or serious commercial-grade stuff like the Pelican and Streamlight, which are built for police and fire with the expectation that a city budget is buying them.
Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any work lights with a CRI specification. You could build your own using the Viltrox light panels /u/maukka loves, but otherwise you're probably getting 70 CRI no matter where you shop.
Of course, depending on your application, don't forget to consider an 18650 headlamp. It's not nearly as bright, but it's always right there.
I have a similar camera and use two of these https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Dimmable-Panasonic-Camcorders/dp/B01L75TMSM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538684608&sr=8-4&keywords=viltrox
They are clamped to the uprights on my two side displays with these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RS1N54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work very well. You can change the color temperature and brightness with a dial on the back. They also have the option of being portable with supplied Li batteries.
Congrats on 37k! I’ll stick with the Viltrox L132T
Here is what I use. They work great.
Neewer Photo Studio 176 LED Ultra... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XDFGDCX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Sinvitron® 11 inch Magic... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011769YUM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
KEXIN LED Clip Lamp with 3 Color... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0788KBXVL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wedding Videographer for 12 years here.... I used a monopod to shoot 98% of my weddings as the primary video, with a tripod as the secondary stand. You can get a monopod for about $15.00 from Walmart or you can go the more expensive route and get one for about 100.00 + dollars from a pro camera shop. For the actual ceremony, I always placed my tripod camera to the entrance and I would stand near the front by the Groom as the Bride came up the isle... edited together is was very professional. The monopod will give you the option to move out of the way during the ceremony. The lav mic was only used for the vows because when you go to edit you will have to go from the sound in the room to the mic... if you try and place both together you will get an echo. Find out ahead of time if there are any speeches, toasts, dances, bouquet toss ahead of time so you can be ready for them during the reception (get a schedule if you can). Don't shoot people eating food and keep the reception as natural as you can. I would keep the reception to one camera on your monopod... you will catch all of the action and keep your editing down to a minimum after the fact (important). Lighting.... I used those LED lights that run about $24.00 on amazon - (see link at the end) ... hope you have external lighting to prevent grainy video footage. Ask the photographer for still shots of groups so you can use them in your video ... using the "Ken Burns Effect" in your video editor. If your going to do a montage remember, people look more romantic and elegant when slowed down in your editor... Good luck... and oh yea... watch out for your equipment and drunks putting their drinks down near your stuff... one spill of a soft drink and its done for.
Here is an example of a small wedding for an older couple (2nd marriage) that I did a few years ago. It was shot with a single GoPro Camera on a monopod. The wedding took place in a courtyard in the French Quarter of New Orleans and features a short intro montage. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxVpNqnbyQ
​
Link to camera light - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Cameras-Battery-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=newer+led+video+light&qid=1570037334&sr=8-5
Your solution is correct, cover the uncontrollable light and use a controllable one. Soft light will look best, but you need it to be bright enough so that your camera doesn’t have to compensate digitally (making the picture all grainy and distorted). A desk lamp will not have this power by itself, so either a bunch of desk lamps bounced off a white wall or shot through a layer of diffusion, or get like two LED video lights and bounce then off a white wall or bounce/shoot them though diffusion (photography umbrellas, diffusion from 5in1 reflector, softboxes, etc.)
Photography--good photography--is *really* tricky, video more so.
Caveat--I've not used the iPhoneXR at all, and I'm more than a bit of a camera snob. I only use my cellphone for "documentation" pictures, or on the rare occasion I don't have a "real" camera with me. I carry a compact camera in my "man purse" so I always have a good camera on me.
If you're not going to be streaming the video I'd suggest a "real" camera, maybe two so you can easily get different angles.
I would also suggest getting some "cheap" lights off Amazon, like these https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Video+lights&qid=1570067275&sr=8-3 (not recommending those, something *like* that) to give the room more light. You don't (necessarily) focus these on you, but bounce them off walls etc.
Look on youtube for videos on video lighting and how to shoot videos.
Have had good luck with these, but it depends on your set up too:
Neewer 2 Packs Dimmable Bi-Color... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Neewer 18-inch Outer Dimmable SMD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJDD3NL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good luck!
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have the first set, having two lights is super nice and allows for a lot of flexibility regarding setups. Also makes it super easy to use fun color gels, can't recommend them enough.
A couple cheap bigger lights will go a very long way! This kit would probably meet most of your needs if you're shooting indoors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HMLJDbS37VVAJ
Add your on camera light as a rim light and you've got some pretty good 3 point lighting for less than $150.
Also, remember to really focus on audio as well! Arguably the most important part of video. :)
Good luck!
Thanks as always Para! :) Viltrox
R.I.P. gundeals
These light stands
These ball heads
The ones I bought are not available anymore but both of these seem to be exactly what I bought.
Light stands are taller and have a smaller footprint than regular tripods. I have never even bumped one. Nor has anyone else.
You can use a weight in the center between the feet to make it really stable.
Unanswered question from the previous megathread
Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
I have two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074VMTP68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and two of the ones mentioned by JonVisc. The first ones will get you by fine for cheaper but the latter are very durable.
I use little squares of color gels for stage lights. they still let you see the ship behind the dial. I pain the bases to match the color of the gel so its easily transferable between lists.
something like this works great: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466784182&sr=8-1&keywords=gel+swatch+book
cheap and so many colors
I'm a former lighting tech, so my view is skewed, BUT:
I'd get yourself a Rosco Swatch Book (or another brand, but whatever), and test out the different diffusion "gels" they have. They're plastic film, and pretty temp tolerant you will not hurt them with these LEDs. make yourself a little holder frame, and see which you like best. Then, if the swatch isn't big enough, just order one sheet of that "color", which will be WAY more than you need.
disclaimer: I refer to these as "gels" "colors", etc. It will have Hundreds of colored gels, but also a lot of diffusion and other "effect" type films.
Definitely gels as others have pointed out. To start out with, you can get a sample pack like this, and then tape the desired gel to your strobe.
Here I did a bit of color mod. Was quick and simple. All I needed was this photo filter. Also, have many other colors for future mods too!. Got the idea from this clown. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0TbpmjHNTs&t=392s
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ER2YG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
Nishika N8000 is a popular camera for this effect
This is the camera you want: https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
I didn't realize these existed. http://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
I have a c920 and I am not disappointed. I subscribe to the belief that your camera is only as good as your lighting. Shit lighting will make a great camera look like shit and great lighting will make a shit camera look great.
I bought that exact screen from Amazon [link], but in retrospect I should've just gone to a fabric store and gotten a green sheet, because that's all it is. It is not special in any way. It is super thin though, so I just double mine up on a custom frame made with PVC pipe (cost of tools and materials was around $20). The good thing about the PVC is that you can measure your space and build a custom frame that fits your needs.
I found some awesome clamp light fixtures at Wal-Mart [example]. In my case I clamped them to my desk and a nearby window sill, pointed at approximately 45 degrees toward me and the screen behind me. The positioning is important in that you need your screen evenly lit and you need to not cast much of a shadow onto it. Luckily I have the space to put the screen far enough behind me and eliminate most shadow problems.
The bulbs I got are bright as hell though, so I've got [these] soft boxes on the way. These are not so much for the lighting itself (although I don't think it'll hurt) but for my own comfort. After only a few minutes of having those lights in my peripheral vision it got uncomfortable.
I also have a light almost directly above me, which rounds out my setup so far. Key light, fill light, and hair light. A Google search on studio and green screen lighting would benefit you. Good luck!
Amazon to the rescue!
This is the one I picked up. - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UOOTCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Probably more than you need, but I've been thrilled with the value considering I use it for youtube videos, site commercials, and of course, now Twitch.
You could probably just get away with this - http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=pd_cp_p_3
Make sure you have something to set it up with, either a wall, piece of foamboard, or get a frame like this - http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-Support/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y
If you get the frame, don't neglect the spring clamps - http://www.amazon.com/Cheaplights-PCS-3-75-Spring-Clamps/dp/B0019SHZU0/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z though I got mine (metal and more robust) from Home Depot.
Personally what I did was order some fabric such as; http://www.amazon.com/6x9-Chromakey-Backdrop-Background-Fancierstudio/dp/B001PCQTDO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451251943&sr=8-4&keywords=Green+Screen+Fabric and went to the local Lowe's to get some PVC pipe to hold the green screen up with, then bought two desk lamps for lighting and it works perfectly.
Though now I regret the whole PVC pipe ordeal as it's a pain in the butt when I can just use ceiling hooks to hold it up with minimal hassle. :P
I feel bad because the things were more expensive than I remember.
Here is the green screen $17.99
and here is the stand $34.99
The green screen requires some kind of stand. Its kind of a massive screen, but I was able to fold it around to fit the size I need and I use it for photography as well. For the stand I didn't even fold the legs out. I just propped them against the wall and used a little sticky tack. If you have more time than money you could get some pvc pipe and make a similar stand for probably less, but I liked this one because it is pretty nice and it is adjustable.
The lamp you linked is not it exactly, but seems like the updated version of what I have. The most important thing is just having the right amount of lumens for the distance away from you. There are conversion charts for when they only give the wattage of the lamp. The lamps I have don't have any temperature control, but I think you can do that on the OBS side. They are just natural white as far as I can tell.
If you're not going to be doing an equipment take down every day then I would go with something like what I have, but if you have to do clean up then a collapsable screen might be worth the extra money.
I know I'm a little late on this, but this is the one I got.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCQTDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hello /r/Photography!
I wonder if I can turn to some professionals and camera enthusiasts for some assistance..
I am primarily a retoucher, I have been retouching for over 5 years but I have always had a problem with getting the rights to show the before and after images so I decided to get a professional camera and get into photography myself.
if you are interested my portfolio can be found here: http://www.lulielens.com
Since I have been looking at images for a long time I already know what kind of look and style I would like to get, but I am completely clueless on the topic of camera gear and equipment (though I am looking to change this).
First here are some example images I like in terms of lighting:
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Example 4
Example 5
Here is my semi-final list. Could you equipment pros let me know if they will work properly together, or if I missed anything else you think I might need (to start with).
I have a Canon 5d mark ii with a 100mm/2.8f lens.
Thank you for taking the time to help!
this will do the job
I just recently started using this one. Maybe not the highest quality, but I do photography just for fun right now, so there's not much point in shelling out $50 or more for a nicer one. It does the job and it's easy to carry.
Foam boards. Large one is about $5 at Stales/Office Depot. Or cash in your change jar and go buy a $10, 5-in-1 reflector on Amazon
That would definitely work for food or any other product/still life photography. Only thing with the box is that you're limited to solid color backgrounds, unless that's what you want. With a reflector like this you can diffuse/reflect light and compose the background however you want.
Is it an actual light or a reflector?
To me it looks like one of those reflector photographs and movie maker uses.
Edit: like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Translucent-Collapsible-Reflector-Photography-Situation/dp/B002ZIVKAE
All those items are pretty cheap. The reflector is 15 bucks on amazon. [The foam core is also about 15 bucks]
(http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/334961/Office-Depot-Brand-Sturdy-Board-Foam/) (and get a black version for your flag). And yes, foam board is used for bounce. It gives off a spread-out, diffused light that's good for a lot of situations.
Well I won't get much use out of them for about a week, but just so you're aware it costs 150 for just one of these lights brand new, so keep that in mind! Best lighting setup you can get for the money other than that is probably something like this
In theory those lights sound good, but in reality they're really not versatile at all. To change the colour balance you have to change all the bulbs as opposed to throwing on a filter or a gel, they're super bulky, they're light and flimsy so if you're dealing with wind they'll blow all over the place, and finally they take forever to set up.
Sorry if I seem like I'm insulting your intelligence, I'm just assuming you're some what of a beginner like me.
I just picked up some lights on Amazon to complete the "infinity white" background look for shooting video. (probably overkill for what you need, but I think you could green screen it with these lights)
I believe they are soft box and come like this. There are different kits online and will probably run between 200-300.
http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Digital-Continuous-Softbox-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415764151&sr=8-4&keywords=video+lighting
https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Professional-Digital-Continuous-Lighting/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8
That is the exact kit
I'm setting up a studio primarily for photography, but also will be shooting video occasionally. Going to also try doing some chromakey video.
I'm currently looking at softboxes and have my eye on this kit to get me started.
My question: I'd like to be able to use the same softboxes for speedlights and continuous lighting both. From the pictures of the softboxes, I can't think of an easy way to swap out the continuous light heads and use a speedlight instead. Any tricks?
> would this be a good place to start? (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FHZ2SI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?
Not really. Overall output is pretty low so it won't help much, and it doesn't look like you can control the amount of output either, which is really important.
Unfortunately the cheapest good option costs somewhat more.
> Also for video work would these lights be a good set up? (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050K3DW2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=12ABU74GX8YT&coliid=IXN17S7HHO3QY)
Don't know much about video. Looks like those have higher output which is good, but still no output control. And why not use the same set for both video and stills?
These are my lights.
> 15 x 45 Watt Compact Fluorescent Perfect Daylight Balance Light Bulb (equals 3000 watt)
I have a Canon ELPH 300 HS I can use, but believe it or not I specifically bought the iPhone 6 due to the rave reviews the camera got. It's also nice to have such a huge screen to see what I'm filming. I'd really like to use the iPhone 6 and am just hoping I have something set wrong.
Yeah I bought a spyder4 pro off amazon. it's like 150 bucks but you can use it on tons of stuff.
http://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407881831&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderpro4
I calibrate my:
MBP
Surface Pro 3,
3 desktop monitors.
It's been worth EVERY PENNY.
I've got a few questions about computer hardware for photography.
My father is a paper artist and needs to upgrade his computer monitor.
He has always photographed his work then edited in Photoshop elements. He is constantly struggling with color correction trying to get everything to look the same as in real life. His average size work is about 5'x5'. He shoots with a T5i with a Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM.
What are some recommendations for high color quality monitors. Color is the most important factor. He has been using a dell ultra sharp and was thinking of upgrading to one of Dell's higher quality monitors. I've heard good things about BenQ but not sure what to look for. I know he should be getting one with an IPS display.
We were thinking a 27" but is it worth investing in a 1440p or is 1080p still fine. Are there any recommendations for display calibrations. The best selling on amazon is Datacolor Spyder4Pro S4P100 Colorimeter for Display Calibration Is this really worth it and is worth trying on his current monitor? I heard about them on a B&H youtube video but it sounds like it's an easy fix?
He is willing to spend the money to invest in something that will last him a while. What would give him the best bang for his buck? Is there a 750 BenQ that acts like a $1200 Dell
What is the best option for $500?
750?
1000?
1250?
Thank you for any recommendations.
I calibrate my monitor on regular basis with the Spyder calibrating equipment/software.
It does a decent job adjusting the screen in balance with the ambient lightning. Reduced my symptoms radically.
http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421078233&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder4
I may spend the cash. What are ur feelings on this one? (does multi monitors)
The default hotkeys to open display controls is:
Hold "Option" and press "F1"
(You might have to also hold down fn if you have your function keys toggled the other way)
Now click on "color", and then "Calibrate...", then follow the instructions.
If you wanted to be super serious about it, you could buy one of these...
But frankly, I wouldn't bother. As long as you edit entire photo sets on the same screen, it should be ok. If you switch screens halfway through an album, that is really bad. But if you do the whole thing on one screen, your photos should be fine, and any slight tones will just add character to your photos.
This one. It's not cheap but you can share it with your friends as the software seems to have unlimited installs.
You calibrate your colors and after that run flux. Flux will now take the calibrated color profile as base and then do its thing on top of it.
I've got this one here. It was super easy to use and the monitors are very close. My only issue I believe is that one is IPS and the other is a much older LCD panel that has a terrible viewing angle.
If you want to do it for real:
https://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNSML-ColorMunki-Smile/dp/B009APMNB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468959372&sr=8-2&keywords=ColorMunki
http://displaycal.net/
If you don't want to invest, go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php and calibrate your black and white levels.
Dell's UltraSharps tend to be pretty good, especially their 1920x1200 ones; I have two U2410s that I use for Lightroom and even without calibration they're much more accurate than other screens. The Dells would probably be more accurate than a Korean panel, and for that extra $50-60 you could find a monitor calibrator and software (like this ColorMunki calibrator) and make your screens even more accurate.
Exactly.
http://www.amazon.com/X-Rite-CMUNSML-ColorMunki-Smile/dp/B009APMNB0
That's a cheap monitor calibration tool. I ran my ROG Swift through it and have been shocked at how much better the color is on it than my BenQ XL2411z, which also has fairly good colors for TN.
They make budget options that when paired with an open source software do a pretty solid job.
It could be your monitor. I recommend getting one of these if you're serious about digital photography or design of any kind.
Some with something like this
I can connect the pc-hh sync cable between my power pack and the receiver?
The advantage of a flash with a trigger is that you can take a couple with it, click the transmitter off, and take a couple without it...
I use a flash on a very low stand for exit photos, generally - but if something wrong - for example, if I can't get into the right position to put the couple between me and the speedlight for some reason, I want to be able to click it off remotely and still get photos! Of course you can handle that with a signal to your husband to switch off that light, so you'll be fine there!
That said, there are cheap flashes that are absolutely fine. You can buy a manual only flash for $30, or one with TTL for $50-60. In addition to the 622's, which are what I use most of the time, you can also get the super cheap 'dumb' transmitters that just pass the trigger signal for under $20. If you're really not going to use this stuff again, they'd be fine.
So something like
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622121&sr=8-3&keywords=flash+trigger
And
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622217&sr=8-16&keywords=yongnuo+flash
That flash will actually trigger as an optical slave to any flash... so you COULD skip the trigger and just use your diffuse fill flash to trigger it while your husband holds it.
Are those great products? Nope. Would I shoot paid weddings with them? Nope. But I think there's a 95% chance they'd do what you need them to do - all for under $50.00.
If you'll use off camera flashes again... invest a little more in the YN-622c's and/or the godox flashes. But if not, cheap out and you're probably okay.
Whatever you do, make sure to get out there 10 minutes before the exit and test your setup! Sparkler exits have everything a photographer hates - bright lights, darkness, fast movement, and a narrow window of opportunity!
Also, coach your couple! Tell them to come out, kiss, move to a certain spot, stop and waive, wait for your signal to move to the end of the line... kiss again. They tend to just RUN for it and it's easy to miss the whole thing, especially if you need two seconds to adjust a setting or switch on or off a flash trigger. That's more important than the gear! The sparklers really DO give enough light to get a shot with ambient only, or ambient and a little flash fill.
Oh, and if you are using front fill, gel it warm!
oh so that one wont work unfortunately, the trigger only works with godox gear.
If you just want a manual trigger just get this!
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=flash+trigger&qid=1567609226&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!
You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.
The AmazonBasics flash is ~$30 and is just a rebranded Neewer model. It's full manual, but if you're shooting off camera with speedlights, with the A6000 that's the only game in town anyway. (If there's a TTL wireless transmitter/receiver out there for the Sony multi-interface shoe, I'm not sure).
For stands and umbrellas, when I started off Cowboy Studio stuff was inexpensive and relatively good quality to price. I'm not sure if it's still that way, but if you're looking to keep it cheap to start with, it's not a bad way to go. Same with their wireless transmitter, but Neewer has one for $16 on Amazon right now that comes with 2 receivers.
(The one thing to keep in mind is that the hotshoe on the black A6000 is painted/coated, so the transmitter may have issues grounding, but I haven't had one of these in hand for several years, and I'm having difficulty remembering if the transmitter required a ground spot in the first place, as it's just a simple "pop the flash" affair. You should be fine though.)
So for a starter kit to learn off camera stuff, I'd say go with 2 of the AmazonBasics Flashes
This umbrella/stand kit
And the above mentioned trigger set. That's around $130 and two lights should be plenty to get you started. Maybe even consider getting some softboxes while you're at it.
Since you're just getting started with it, I wouldn't dump too much money into it for now. Those two flashes with umbrellas/soft boxes will be plenty to just get the basics down, learn the different lighting styles, and decide if shooting with flash is where you want to go.
From there, shelling out for some PocketWizards, Profoto strobes, and all the high end kit is up to you!
I am considering buying a light meter (specifically this one). Would I need to purchase a sync cable to connect my flash and light meter? If so would a cable like this work with this trigger system?
I'm trying to understand some things about speedlights and triggers.
What does it mean, for example, that the YN560IV has build it transmitter? I read that it can control up to 3 other flashes? Or it can just connect to a wireless trigger, like the YN560-TX, without the need of a receiver?
What are the difference in use between the trigger mentioned above and something like this:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/aw/d/B00A47U22U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1522265774&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Flash+trigger&dpPl=1&dpID=51FT9BEQkDL&ref=plSrch
Can those trigger old manual speedlights?
HSS. What uses does it have? Or rather, in what situations could you need faster than 1/200 shutter when using a speedlight?
What is a slave? A flash that fires only when another does so? Aside from triggering it optically by firing another flash (is there a delay to this?), are there other options that use the same idea? If I set 2,3, or 5 speedlights, I'd have one that I receives the signal directly from camera and the rest will be slaves? Or not?
If you do want wireless so you can shoot further than arm's length, I have been using these. They weigh virtually nothing and work really well (provided you are ok with setting everything from the flash and not the transmitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A47U22U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up this one, and it fit rather nicely
http://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=pd_ybh_9
Sure! This is the one I got. It's a little spendy, but it's totally worth it. I just have mine sitting on my desk with the mount instead of a stand. You could add rubber feet or something to keep it from scratching if you need.
It's this one:
Blue Microphones Yeti and Yeti Pro Custom Spider Shock Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wUKkzbZA3SKXD
I liked the footprint of this one way better than the more common one you find for the Yeti, I felt like this one allows you to get way closer to the mic.
Here you go! They work pretty well together, but the connection from the boom to the shock mount used a plastic screw that is a little loose.
Shock mount
http://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1403135490&sr=1-2&keywords=yeti+shock+mount
Mic arm
http://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Adjustable-Microphone-Broadcast-Suspension/dp/B00KKPRR2O/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417806212&sr=1-6&keywords=mic+arm
I was actually thinking about this one: http://www.amazon.com/Microphones-Custom-Spider-Shock-Mount/dp/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_text_y
Amazon says that is frequently bought with the PSA1, and it looks pretty good to me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HL5WWHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
currently they do not make it anymore
I use a noise gate and Reaper, software to
clean up the sound in almost realtime. It's still not
enough though. My mic sits on my desk since
I don't have a microphone arm yet. It's on a spider shock mount that
keeps it from picking up the thump of each key, but nothing seems to stop the sound of each key coming back up.
you can get started with one flash/strobe + reflector and stand or softbox and stand. you don't need a backdrop right away, you can just use any solid color wall.
flash vs strobe. strobes are more powerful and faster cycling but require ac power or battery packs. flashes are more portable.
for a backdrop you can just use these two. it's a bit cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop-AGG1112/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494795437&sr=8-3&keywords=Backdrop
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Collapsible-Background-Photography-Television/dp/B00SR28X9S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494795437&sr=8-6&keywords=Backdrop
for the lights, you can just buy stands and softboxes or flash reflectors seperately. i wouldn't recommend that kit. start with one softbox or one flash reflector and stand. then add more as you need.
stands
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494795534&sr=8-2&keywords=softbox+stand
softboxes, multiple sizes available.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1494795485&sr=1-4&keywords=softbox
flash reflector
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Double-Reflector-Umbrella-AGG127/dp/B005AKF4F6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1494795671&sr=8-7&keywords=flash+umbrella
>flash: try a godox tt685 ($110)
On a $200 total budget, I'd actually say a $65 TT600 is a better option, which will let you get a decent air-cushioned lightstand, or two flashes for the price of the TT685. :)
I would highly recommend the TT685 over the TT600, though, if you think you want to use the flash for both on and off-camera flash, since TTL is very useful for event run'n'gun.
>trigger... x1t ($45)
But $60 X2T or $70 XPro would be much much nicer. Again, another reason the TT600 might not be a bad place to start.
>lightstand: just get some cheap amazon one ($15)
No, I'd say look for a $40 cheap one that's air-cushioned. Slammed lights down on my fingers too many times with the super-cheapies. :)
>try try an umbrella soft box thing ($26)
Those slit-through the bottom octas don't tilt much at all. You want one that attaches to a speedring. It'll be more expensive ($45). So, actually, starting with a convertible umbrella ($20-25) might be a better first choice.
>speedlight holder thing that holds an umbrella]
Or, instead of an umbrella swivel, get an S-type bracket ($20) which can be used to hold the speedlight closer to the center of an umbrella, as well as attach Bowen S speedringed modifiers bayonet to the face of it.
A compact umbrella swivel, though can be a lot smaller in your lighting bag. The issue is whether the modifier you want to use works with one. The S-Bracket is more general purpose that way.
Ok how's 3 tiers?
First tier is very basic. Any kit like this should do the trick. You would most likely put one light on either side while your product is on a table, then have the 3rd light pointed at a wall behind the table.
A step up from that would be a basic set of speedlights like this paired with one of these or an umbrella (two if you're feeling ambitious one on each side, then snag another flash for a BG light) Flashes are better vs continuous lighting from the first link as they allow you more control and let you modify the light easier (with softboxes and other various things, this would allow you to get softer light, harsher light, more focused light, etc etc) You can also bounce them off a white ceiling at higher power which would act like a big softbox overhead.
Top tier for someone starting out would be a set of alien bees Paired with a couple of softboxes and a background light. They take up more space and I wouldn't recommend them if you're just getting your feet wet. (mine are set up all the time and I shoot stuff like this and this with them. )
Thanks for your great input. So I actually purchased this portable godox. Does this still require the Bowen's mount ring? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you can return those I would. Those are meant for larger studios and not really for constant light.
If you can look into led panels. They have dimmers and you can mix in yellow and blue light to get the perfect balance for your room, especially if you have any natural light coming through a window.
Look at these, I'm pretty sure it's what I use (I steal them from my husband who's a videographer) and they are amazing! (Not an affiliated link btw)
Neewer Dimmable Bi-Color LED with U Bracket Professional Video Light for Studio, YouTube Outdoor Video Photography Lighting Kit, Durable Metal Frame, 480 LED Beads, 3200-5600K, CRI 96+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OiArDbD2DT7J9
There have been a few posts recently, the clamp stands are hit and miss, mostly DIY outside of the massively over priced Elgato units.
I personally use and recommend Neewer panels, I use https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=neewer+LED&qid=1551065970&s=electronics&sr=1-3
For the camera, i think a G7 should do the job, but if you don't even move that much and have a somewhat broader field of view, maybe a set focus will even do the job.
For audio i'd personally get a sound recorder from zoom or tascam and a cable - lav which will cost you 120$ to 150$ and get you great results.
For lightning i'd take something like https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492541966&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+led
with some cheap tripods, because your indoors mostly there should be no worrys, and they can be powered per battery, too.
Software... Davinci Resolve ist free if you only want to work in a 1080p workflow and even for like 20$ a month you get get the full adobe cc bundle. And yeah you don't want to spend much money there, but many things can be created with the combination of Premiere, AfterEffects and Audition.
Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U?ref_=ast_slp_dp
​
With 4 NP-F970 Batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-Replacement-Compatible-DCR-VX2100-HVR-HD1000U/dp/B01N3TWBXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3AVTU7RI3GKN2&keywords=np+f970+battery&qid=1574805414&s=electronics&sprefix=np+f%2Celectronics%2C227&sr=1-3
​
Some gels: (cut to size) https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-12-Inches-Transparent-Correction-Different/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=neewer+gels&qid=1574805440&s=electronics&sr=1-1
​
and two light stands and you're in business.
​
I've been using these for a long time and always do the trick.
Look up the film guys (thefilmguys.net) and see what that cinematography looks like. Only those lights and nothing else.
Any idea on how to attach this light to this bracket? Which adapter do I need?
Light
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U
Bracket (for use with umbrella)
https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Speedlite-Umbrella-Reflector-Holder/dp/B072JRNNTG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bracket+for+umbrella&qid=1574025410&s=electronics&sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y
Is this similar enough? :)
What if I were to get one or two of these and put them on a stand?
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539380370&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+yn360
your vids are getting better, bro. And your recipes are amazing :) I would've never thought of making curry paste. I gotta try it now.
I still think that you could shave a minute off of this by doing more dynamic cuts, even though i did notice you playing with speed ramping -- looking good. One big thing i was thrown off by in this one was camera shake when you were pounding the paste and when you slam your fist on the table :) Setting up a tripod may be a little more work, but it will help out. Also, watch your shadows when doing an overhead shot. I think you need more of those, but you would need an LED light to help you with those. Check this one out, it's affordable and very versatile. It can give your dishes some really desirable light. https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550150996&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+led+light+wand&psc=1&smid=AMIHU7JS0U6DA
​
also, check out my channel when you get a chance :) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC05j4axvVhIUu0FOr3zzkLg
​
I've heard good things about this item from others, and it is a fraction of the cost. If I recall correctly, you must purchase the charging cable separately. So I'd research thoroughly before pulling the trigger.
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-L132T-Dimmable-Panasonic-Camcorders/dp/B01L75TMSM?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_7494595011
Thanks you for this, u/parametrek!
I'm actually totally into the Viltrox L132T!
Awesome, thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L132T/dp/B01L75TMSM/?tag=parametrek-20 . Why not?
https://www.amazon.com/Viltrox-L132T/dp/B01L75TMSM/?tag=parametrek-20
You rock as always, I'm down for this guy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L75TMSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_nWa1Db2XW4JYY
We actually use 3 of these
LED photo lights
They take up less space than softboxes, as well as let you adjust the color temp and brightness. We ran ours with the amazon recommended power cable and a desk scissor mount.
Can you use this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Samsung-Olympus/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524709063&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+battery+LED+Light
Instead of a Speedlight flash or should you always use a Speedlight flash when you are on the move at an event?
Ha I think you gave yourself some good feedback at the beginning of the video - you could already see the finished look, so the viewer doesn't need to wait until the end/watch more :) You could put the finished look in the thumbnail instead and do your outro with it.
As you're doing makeup videos I'd also recommend getting some better lighting (doesn't have to be expensive), I bought this one and it is quite good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Batteies-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=video+lighting+led&qid=1563132285&refinements=p_89%3ANeewer&rnid=1632651031&s=photo&sr=1-5
Neewer Photo Studio 176 LED Ultra... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDFGDCX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
whatever light you get make sure it's dimmable and has a diffuser attachment. Something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Samsung-Olympus/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=asc_df_B06XDFGDCX/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292974284305&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5136241249916722319&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000813&hvtargid=pla-347938700150&psc=1
If you’re limited in space, my solution has been to mount an LED light on one of these stands, and clamp it to the back of my desk. Gives me a little more flexibility than mounting it on top of my monitor.
I use these lights, if youre interested.
I use a single studio lamp for mine, I just don't have much room for another one. You could also try a neewer lamp which I hear are pretty good especially if you lack the room for two studio lamps.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06XDFGDCX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518710416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BDoViD4wL&ref=plSrch
If you want spend for branded quality that is and is rather robust (even though it will be in the office and not traveling with you for diff film sets) go with the aperature branded products
However if you want some good budget lights and can buy some bell and whistle add ons to help with your set up later, go with Neewer 660 LEDs here and their 5 in 1 reflector kit here
Personally I love Neewer as they have a solid product and if you take care of it, as you should for all of your equipment, it will last.
Are you interested in a DSLR/interchangeable lens type of camera, or a straightforward video camcorder? Based on what you're looking to film (interviews plus footage of art being created over a period of time), I think a DSLR camera could work for you. It would be capable of getting quality video footage, and if you want to take photo timelapses of the art pieces being created that would be easy to do as well.
So based on that and your $2000 budget, here's what I'd recommend.
Panasonic G85 w/kit lens ($800)
Rode Wireless DSLR Audio System ($330)
Manfrotto Video Tripod ($360)
Neewer 660 LED 2-Light Kit with stands ($160)
Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens ($180)
This should bring you comfortably under $2000. The kit lens that comes with the G85 isn't the greatest but it's a start. I'd recommend getting the Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 if you have another $800 or so to shell out...you can probably get it cheaper used though.
The 25mm f1.7 is equivalent to a 50mm focal length on a full-frame camera (the G85 has a micro four thirds sensor) and should do well in lower light situations.
With the leftover money, I say go buy a decent bag or carrying case for the camera gear and get some SD cards, lens filters, etc.
Thanks! So something like [this?](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Pieces-Bi-color-Video-Light/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=neewer%2Bled%2Bpanels&qid=1555434010&s=electronics&sr=1-3&th=1)
Looks like you can control their intensity and light temperature without gels, which is nice.
How do you position these? I know traditional lighting setups look something like [this](http://i.imgur.com/PXOMvoj.png) but as I am now I don't have a solid backdrop behind me for a good 15 feet or so.
The color on these won't be great, but this gives you two decently soft sources, and relatively cheap. You'll still need to hang some diffusion on it, and probably look into getting some minus green gel.
Neewer 2 Pieces Bi-color 660 LED Video Light and Stand Kit Includes:(2)3200-5600K CRI 96+ Dimmable Light with U Bracket and Barndoor and (2)75 inches Light Stand for Studio Photography, Video Shooting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW3B81V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_h9e2DbR7NFHH7
By indoor lighting do you mean the normal lights in your house? If so that's the problem, turn them off and use a couple good lights to properly light what you're filming instead.
something like this will go a long way. Or better two of these will light up a room nicely.
Never underestimate what a few lights can do to improve the quality of your video, especially if you shoot a lot indoors. Outdoors during the day you can easily get away with not having lights, but not indoors. I think putting more into the camera is a good choice, since there are some decent enough cheap LED lights to get you by.
“Neewer” is a Chinese company (sold on Amazon) offering many lighting, camera and audio products. For the price pretty amazing stuff. Here is a two light LED kit with stands worth looking at for $130. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=B9R3FRD06SBT&keywords=led+panel+light&qid=1563417067&s=gateway&sprefix=Led+panel%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-4
Well, I've never done product stuff before and the lighting in your video was really good. I guess I would start with a kit like this and get a couple of diffusers for each to cut the harshness.
Neewer 2 Packs Dimmable Bi-Color 480 LED Video Light and Stand Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tMjtDbDANAXMV
I’m really sorry if this is a question you have all answered time and time again, but I’m REALLY getting ready to start learning the trade and this is kind of the last detail I want to get in order.... and it’s lighting.
I live in a rather small apartment on the ground floor, and there’s a decent amount of natural light that comes through our sliding door wall. Sadly... the angle it comes in at and the time frames that it actually comes through our window (not blocked by trees) don’t give me a lot of room to work with. I was scrolling through Amazon and happened across these two lights Amazon, which looks like an okay deal. I’d like to get some cheap items to bounce the light around like some of those white foam boards, but I wanted some input from you guys to see if these are a bust/bad option. I’m mostly going to be doing filming at my desk talking at the camera as well as some clips of “POV” angles where the camera is on a tripod between myself and the desk.
Thank you! Ok, I will check more the G7. I did not mention that but want to buy these lights, seems pretty good for the price: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541656546&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=neewer+2+packs+dimmable+bi-color+480+led+video+light&dpPl=1&dpID=510kZrykw6L&ref=plSrch
You need an LED video light.
I have these. They're cheap and they work well.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=video+light&qid=1573919639&sr=8-15
I want to record professional course at home which will be sold in online course sites. This will include talking head and screen casting, I use Screencast. My recording area size is 2X2 meters with very few light shines in. Help me build a decent studio in 500$:
My sigma: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/918897-REG/sigma_19mm_f_2_8_dn_for.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q42GXQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3QDQQZGFBPIAD&psc=1
Any other thoughts will be blessed
Copying Zak with the Viltrox panel. Thanks as always!
I dunno why I need one of these... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QLGK3R/
Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-VL-162T-Brightness-Camcorder-3300K-5600K/dp/B073QLGK3R/
Good luck everyone!
Thanks for the giveaway parametrek! Thanks also for making such an excellent site!
Viltrox VL162-T, if that's allowed. If not, Rofis TR10. I was planning on modding the VL162-T to run off of batteries.
I could put this to use.
If only the Luimintop Prince Mini was in stock.
Awesome giveaway, thanks a ton!
Light Panel
Viltrox please!
https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-Dimmable-Brightness-3300K-5600K-Bi-color/dp/B073QLGK3R
Recent subscriber, would like one of these!
Thanks for the giveaway, Parametrek! I'm slowly realizing I have a lot of lights, so I think the Viltrox light panel is a good choice. Also, I'm excited to see how your site is expanding.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=light+stand&qid=1563219978&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VMTP68/
I used these stands for a while that can easily be taken down, but they have a sort of large footprint. Slightly more permanent but still movable solution are shower caddy pressure rods.
I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.
A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:
Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting
Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes
AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack
Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?
He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?
Oh yeah, like I said, all 3 of my sensors are on tripods that can extend almost as high as the ceiling. I've tried moving them all over the place and up and down. Every time I think I finally fixed it my left hand randomly floats off into space on a harder song. This has been going on for 6-months plus, I've pretty much given up on Rift.
Do you have enough room to put these up?
I just moved into a new place I can't put holes into the walls either and these worked well enough. Depending on your space, they will cut down a little on room scale since they can't get right up against the wall (without modification at least).
You could buy a cheap lux meter and just measure the brightness?
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https://www.amazon.com/URCERI-Illuminance-Handheld-Temperature-Measurer/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=lux+meter&qid=1565111950&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Those two lights on the outside are not going to add anything.. use a lux meter to mesure light intensity on your plants
https://www.amazon.com/URCERI-Illuminance-Handheld-Temperature-Measurer/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549323896&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lux+meter&psc=1
In seedling stage they should all be getting 5k-10k lux for fastest growth
Chances are you are WAY to close and definitely not too far away.
Those sprouts are trying to get their head in the dirt, not reach for the sky like a guppy on its last breath.
https://www.amazon.com/URCERI-Handheld-Digital-Temperature-Measurer/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=pd_rhf_sc_p_img_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N1J50XP6BGAA8515VKWS
Find the point they are reaching for the sky (about 3 to 3.5ft or higher if your lights are stronger). Then lower a little at a time (every 2 days) until they level off a little.
They should always be reaching just a little at the tippy top. about 10 - 15 degrees.
Also, if your leaves turn too dark too quickly, is another sign of roasting your bud (to be) way to early.
LEDs like lasers. are a specific wavelength. Your eyes are uses to many colors coming from the sun and incandescent bulbs. About half the spectrum is missing from LED (so it can be more efficient in the ones you want), so your eyes 'think' its not as bright, but it is. At least in photon impact and heat generated is concerned.
Yeah, if you've got an unhealthy plant it could be Wrong nutrient solution pH or wrong nutrient intensity (PPM) or too little/too much light
You can hone in on those issues with those devices. Without them you couldn't know of one or more of those are Messing with you
Then there's Humidity/Temperature (https://goo.gl/images/Lf31JV orange is optimal)
Then your medium could be fucked Up, too dense, Bad components (screws with pH), Salt build up
Or your Nutrient composituon could be messed Up (Missing CalMag, Bad Base nutrients)
Those 3 devices together with a Tempreture/Humidity measuring device (godmode would be a Graph with multiple measurements, those things only cost Like 30$) should Cover most your bases.
pH and PPM: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Quality-Meter-Pancellent-Temperature/dp/B06XCMNFVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542216012&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ph+ppm&psc=1
Lux: https://www.amazon.com/URCERI-Handheld-Digital-Temperature-Measurer/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542216067&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lux+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41VbfwkdRUL&ref=plSrch
Yep, I had the same thing happen on my first grow (on my 3rd now). It's stretching due to not enough light. You can basically ignore the recommendations of the grow light manufacturer's as far as distance above the plants -- they seem to always err on the side of caution. I bought this lux meter on Amazon for about $20: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075DC6X25/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xnYUDbD3MF0DF
I've been keeping the light intensity between 10K - 20K lux for seedlings and that seems to work for me. Then gradually increase.
Pick up one of these. I use it all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DC6X25/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mine is the pretend 2000w version and for me, 1100k lumens (about 3.5 ft) for sprouts and then slowly implement to about 2100k lumens (about 1.75 ft) for full growth flowering. I'm comfortable with 2 plants as long as I rotate a lot.
You're lower powered and might be tempted to lower to much.
LEDs are exact in their spectrum (end abruptly) unlike incandescent which bleed across the board. But that makes them more efficient in the spectrums you want.
LEDs are basically low powered lasers with a borked direction.
Your eye appear to see less light, even though just as much radiation is hitting your eyes (and those sensitive leaves).
Don't trust your eyes, trust the $20 gizmo and the coloring of the leaves.
I bought a Lumens meter for $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DC6X25/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I use it more than anything.
I found that PEAK is 20k lumens is max for a full grown plant and 19k for sprouts.
Comfort zone is around 17-18k (peak). Every inch drops by 1000 points.
But, with under powered lights you have a second problem, radiation from the LED output device.
If you have to push the LEDs to close to get the 20k, you'll burn the plants very prematurely from heat from the board and some other radiation source that I am presently on a quest to get the exact physics on.
If you got outside on a partly cloudy day you'll pull 90k lumens from The Great Photon Emitter in the sky.
I have a high powered device, probably like what you ordered as a main flowering LED and its almost 2.5 to 3 ft above the plants and comfortable handles 2 plants. For a 3rd, I am squeezing and rotating a lot.
I dangle a lower powered 80w at a side angle to 'fluff' the top and middle from a different angle with photons. Never exceeding 20k lumens at any point on the plant.
I might still be a little to high and need to back my lights off some.
Remember, LEDs are just laser beams with a borked direction
"Gel" is indeed what you are looking for. (It's called gel because the filters used to be made from gelatin, but now it's a plasticy polyester film) What I would recommend is to find a theatrical supplies or lighting rental store by you and pick up a gel swatchbook so you can test the different colors on your actual lights. You may need to block the parts of the lights that the swatches don't cover, I'd suggest using aluminum foil and tape.
If you can't find a supplier near to you, you could order a swatchbook online: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495168846&sr=8-1&keywords=gel+swatchbook
In addition to the warmth, you might want to use a Rosco #119 or #114 which is a frost that will also help to soften the light.
Angle from where the picture is taken might have an influence, but I don't think that it matters all that much.
Try looking at the original picture and compare it to the picture shown on the wall screen. Look at the colour of the floor. There is a distinct difference even though if you look at the original picture shown on only one screen there is no such thing.
I don't know how the calibration is done when it is turned on, and I can't see how you can do a proper calibration without an external measuring device to measure what colour each screen is actually producing. Basically measuring the colour which is produced and comparing it against the colour which you are trying to produce.
I only know about the consumer facing products used for this. The tool used is called a colorimeter.
Link to one such device.
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$100 is a lot for a light stand. I use this $15 one and no compliants. I've used it for the same speedlight and umbrella setup you're using, as a reflector stand, and even for a ring light.
This modifier is for strobes. Strobes have the bulb extended out beyond the main unit which throws light in all directions. Speedlights only throw light where they are pointing. The reason speedlight modifiers are pointed backwards is so the reflective surface scatters the light and sends it back the opposite direction towards the diffuser. Pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0132I34K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qtKuyb46KD16T
https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484091115&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo+ice+light
and
https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-AL-M9-Amaran-Light-Camera/dp/B01ITRLJIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484091130&sr=8-1&keywords=aputure+m9
you will never out grow these lights.