(Part 2) Best car audio & video according to redditors
We found 3,085 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video. We ranked the 1,152 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I have the same setup, I also use a NuForce AMP/DAC that I can recommend right back at ya 😊
I'm gonna need a link because I can't find it
EDIT: found it
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-Amplier-Shelf-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
It looks like it may be the topping acrylic shelf, people use it with the Schiit stack.
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WZ8XBbSDEN6DV
I would not get a contractor for this, as you don't need to put it in your roof. I put one in my attic and I love it. Here's what I got:
The signal booster needs to be as close to the antenna as possible, so it is boosting the strongest signal. It took me an afternoon to install it all and run a cable down from my attic to basement. I already had the amp/splitter in basement, so that's why I ran everything there.
My wife didn't want to get rid of cable, but she hasn't talked about getting it back and it's been almost a year. PM me if you have any questions.
Recently bought these and installed myself. Good bang for your buck!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AFxK9E69ocMMo
I do use both a DAC and an Amp.
I use the Magni amp, and the Modi DAC by Schiit.
Magni: http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-1&keywords=schiit
Modi: http://www.amazon.com/Modi-USB-Digital-Analog-Convertor/dp/B00CICPN0K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407907&sr=8-2&keywords=schiit
Rule of thumb, you get what you pay for and if it’s too good to be true it probably is.
Example boss claiming 1100 watts for $44.99 when others are selling 1000 watts for $180 or 1200 watt for $330 should be a big red flag that something isn’t right with that boss. That’s not to say you can’t get a deal on an amp that’s worth a damn or that you need to pay extra for a name it’s just an example that some things are to good to be true. That “1200 watt” boss amp would be lucky to make 400 watts on a good day.
I'm tempted to try out the Halo LED headlights on Amazon for $120 ish.
https://www.amazon.com/TURBO-Headlight-Projection-Motorcycle-Freightliner/dp/B015WIRU2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741576&sr=8-1&keywords=wrangler+halo+led
$63 for speaker upgrades, I can't recommend it enough. I got 2 kits for both soundbar and front speakers, took me less than 2 hours to install it all myself.
https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741601&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+upgrade
Next on my wish list is the switch panel that goes on the windshield, hook all your lights into one unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Wrangler-Windshield-6-Switch-Assemblies/dp/B01CDTW03K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741651&sr=8-4&keywords=wrangler+switch+panel
I use Rockford 4 channel for my door speakers
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539563825&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+4+channel+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51x1P1Mnh6L&ref=plSrch
Same brand but the 750 for my 2 12”s and same brand but 1200 for my 18”
It’s this stand for Topping amps but fits Schiit perfectly as well!
And thanks for the kind words!
Shame on r/moto for downvoting a legitimate question. If you don't like how others customize their bikes then just move on.
Certified audio visual technician, I can help with the speakers. If you're going to use the speakers when your bike is off, you need to fit an extra or larger battery into your bike. Recommend at least a 12AH (amp hour) deep cycle battery for the "extra" or anything larger than your current battery for a single one. Forget everything you were told about wattage. Wattage != loud. You want Db rating. Db rating = how loud a speaker is in decibels with 1 watt of power to it. You have to double the wattage every time to get 3 more db. 400 watts vs 100 watts is only 4 decibels louder in the same speaker, or, a barely noticeable difference.
On the cheap end I recommend:
>Any head unit you prefer with a least 20watts per channel or this https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582501&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai If you're cool with just using an aux cord straight from your phone into an amp.
>And these speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS693-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582569&sr=1-5&keywords=6x9+speakers 92db with 1 watt. 20 watts is plenty to crank it them to 104 decibels. 50watts to about 108 decibels.
Pricier but the best bang for your buck:
>Head unit of your choice (doesn't need any wattage)
>This amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PAD2000-2-2-channel-Amplifier/dp/B0060AVWRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582960&sr=1-1&keywords=polk+d2000.2 ignore the reviews, solid amp, people just don't know what they're doing.
>these speakers https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KS693-Inch-3-way-Speakers/dp/B004OAWLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582825&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+ks+6x9 or these https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582858&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+6x9
All speakers are water proof and very durable. I recommend 6x9s for maximum listening pleasure. Don't forget to wire a switch to cut power from the amp and headunit when you don't need them.
>So it was back to the future with over-the-air TV (OTA) using an antenna or what we Boomers used to call an aerial
I'm not that old man. I was born in 83, and I call it an aerial, (because it operates in the sky, and you put it up in the sky on a mast). That's just what it is.
>A few caveats: my unit purports to be good for more than one TV although AntennasDirect support told me reception takes a hit with that approach. Bear in mind, they want to sell more antennas. They also told me longer cable runs (don’t go more than 100 feet) affects reception adversely.
So use a distribution amplifier, and distribute it throughout your house. Watch 4 TV's on one aerial if you wish. Problem solved.
There is a way to do it, yes, but it will be a bit more complicated than your description. I had a similar situation in my house when I cut the cord. I put the antenna in the attic with a distribution amplifier similar to this. The in-wall coax is definitely ok to use with either antenna or cable service.
One output of the amplifier was connected to a TV in a room immediately below. The other output went to the original cable which dropped through the walls to the basement where the original cable signal had come in. Another distribution amplifier there distributed the signal to four other rooms with TV jacks. (Note that the line from the antenna became the input signal to the basement amplifier; it was originally connected to one of the outputs.)
If your signals are strong and/or you don't need to split the signal at the antenna, you may not need the first distribution amplifier at the antenna.
This works well for all the TVs, getting about 35 channels. We are about 20 miles from most of the TV transmitters.
Hope this helps!
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Audio-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375125535&sr=1-1
Build a box to spec.
I did this for an ex's car as a present.
Basically, fuck the cassette adapter. This is cheaper, as permanent as you want it, and better. No scratchy feedback.
Install an aux port in your car.
The head unit (basically stereo control panel) pops out, and you can plug this into the back. Empty spot? Plug there. You might have to give up one of your inputs (unplug the cassette plug w/e you want).
Aux interface,Yomikoo USB/AUX Mp3 Player Adapter Car Digital Music Cd Changer 3.5mm for Mazda 2004-2008 M3 2002-2008 M6 1999-2003 323 2003-2008 Miata 2003-2008 MX5 2002-2006 MPV 2007-2008 CX7
by Yomikoo
Link: http://a.co/6y7OLKq
I used this company's version for a 2000 Honda. I did notice a buzzing sound when charging your phone, (older cars, more electrical noise) so I bought this:
AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Home Audio and Car Stereo System with 3.5mm Aux Cable
by AUKEY
Link: http://a.co/he465A8
All good. That was an issue with her wiring.
Wyness Car CD USB Audio Aux Adapter Digital Music Cd Changer 3.5mm Interface for Mazda 2003-2011 M3 2003-2011 M6 1999-2003 323 2003-2008 Miata 2003-2008 MX5 2002-2011 MPV 2006-2011 CX7
by Wyness
Link: http://a.co/aDMRTUI
This one looks fine too. Honestly they all look like they're made by the same company with different names.
Or don't deal with any of that shit. Just replace the head unit. HOLY SHIT THIS THING IS $20. No ground noise.
But wait there's more. $20ish more bucks and you get bluetooth and removeable media.
The only thing you'll need is a spudger (plastic flat thing to pry the dash off). Maybe a screwdriver. It's super easy, have fun, look up youtube videos for your exact model.
First polyfil (pillow stuffing) the sound bar. Can be found in any sewing/craft section or store and is cheap. Do not pack too dense. You unscrew the speakers and stuff the fill on the space behind them. This will give more depth to your sound.
Kicker makes a direct fit replacement for you. I went with an Infiniti setup, they fit, but I had to add my own mounting holes. It is easy, but, direct fit is easier.
You can always spend more but these will get you in the door.
Soundbar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SUO5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453788771&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jeep+kicker+speaker+upgrade&dpPl=1&dpID=414npO2O69L&ref=plSrch
Dash: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS654/Kicker-40CSS654.html?tp=106
As for subs a single 10" (even some 8's) in a "truck box" will give you the missing low end. You will retain your cargo space and much easier to take out if you need to load up. Or should someone decide they need your subs more than you, it will be cheaper to replace. Of course you could do a 12" or double up on anything...I was young once and competed in many audio events. If you want to go nuts let's talk.
As for your head unit. Head over to www.crutchfield.com and poke around. Many use Crutchfield to see what fits then shop around for a better deal. If you purchase from them you will many time receive all the wiring and mounting hardware +phone support.
If you are newer to modifying things your stereo is a good entry into learning how things work. Feel free to hit me up if you need to talk through anything.
I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.
My wife loves me but not HD650 love :X
and would something like this work Magni Headphone Amplifier + Modi USB Digital/Analog Convertor?
There's also an acrylic rack for that stack too: https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/
The Schitt stack also fits in this rack as well as the JDS Atom amp.
Back on Amazon found mine on eBay here's the Amazon link.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_26SCDbCBPXX50
First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.
It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.
This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.
I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.
Get these instead of the Kicker's
Polk Audio DB461P 4-by-6-Inch Coaxial Plate-Style Speakers (Pair, Black)
http://amzn.com/B000P0NJOO
And these instead of the JVC's
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver)
http://amzn.com/B000P0R6KW
For $15 more, you'll get better sound. Although, if you prefer to use Crutchfield, I'm sure you'll be happy (for the time being) with those.
i'd have checked out a single 12" from sundown or something. kicker is sort of a shitty brand tbh plus you're partially paying for marketing in that price. a good 12" will always be better than 2 below average 10"
absolute tank https://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_107_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E5D1EH8CWXTGAR0863EF
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I've been using the alpine 9887 head unit in my 06 and it's great, I really like the interface and IPod option. I upgraded the sound bar speakers to 6.5" kickers, $50 at best buy. And also upgraded the oval 6x4 speakers in the dash panel near the knees to 5.25" speakers with a bracket I found on Amazon
As for the sub I also had a fear of it getting stolen, so I built a box for it to put in the center console. I bought a 10" shallow sub and it fits perfectly, and hits pretty hard. I mounted the amp under the steering column, to go for the, out of sight out of mind idea. All the wires are hidden, and unless you know what you're looking for, you couldn't even tell anything was there.
Dash speaker brackets
10" shallow sub
Amp used, mounted under column
Write up used for mounting amp
Write up used for sub box
I followed the box guide almost exactly, but I cut a larger diameter hole since I used a 10" and he used an 8"
It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.
Headunit - DEH-150mp
(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)
keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.
You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.
Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.
I have this one, and its $150 - highly recommend it. They always underrate them, so it's kind of luck of the draw but mine is rated for a little over 500 watts.
Other users can successfully pull over 100 watts at 4ohm.
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX
Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD
Could you please include your vehicle's year, make, and model in future posts?
If you want my honest opinion, no speakers you get for $60/pair are going to be better than the Bostons you have now, unless yours are straight up blown and rattling. And since you have the Boston system, there's probably a factory amp which may or may not use DSP. Point being, you already think those speakers sound pretty good. So add a subwoofer, pull the bass setting on the head unit down a click, and you'll be able to crank those speakers a touch more. As for sub, the Fosgate P300 is recommended here a lot and for good reason. Solid performer and it's an easy to install all-in-one solution. Easy to remove the whole thing quickly, should you need to trade the car in or just make room for luggage.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OKYQzbAT9VST5
Thats what i have. I didnt run anything to clean up the signal but i did isolate the signal wire from the power and ground. I ran sheilded speaker wire from the passenger B pillar and underneath the back seat cushion. I ran the power through the cabin, tucked underneath the carpet and door seals.
The sub is smart enough to turn on and off by detecting signal from the head unit.
I forgot to mention the best part. The harness just clips into the sub so removal is super easy. I have it attached to the false floor and i can easily pull it in and out for track days.
I wouldn't recommend Boss products at all, I currently have a Pioneer FH-X700BT (http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6) and it's currently on sale on Amazon for cheaper than your price range.
I prefer Sound Blaster Z/ZxR's surround to Dolby. Dolby tends to sound like a tin can where the Z/ZxR sounds more natural in a gaming situation. Altho since I've gotten better gear and developed a more sensitive ear I might just look into some type of crossover system that basically combines the Left and Right channels by a small percent to remove the hard left/right panning when gaming. That is basically all Dolby Headphone and Sound Blaster Surround does is just combine the two channels and throw the effects in a way that sounds more spacious.
If you're going with such a nice pair of cans like the K702's I'd go this route:
Sound Blaster Z
Schiit Modi Optical
Shiit Magni
You're going to spend $200 on the ZxR why not just get the Z a amp/dac that will last you for decades. A Schiit stack looks amazing, sounds amazing, is made in the US and has a 5 year warranty + 15 day satisfaction. The Modi Optical isn't in stock but I asked their CS the other day and they are shipped some to Amazon so they should be in stock very soon.
Your setup will look like this with the Z and Schiit amp/dac:
Sound Blaster Z > Optical cable > Modi > RCA's > Magni > Headphones.
If you go that route you get all of the benefits of the Z sound card (surround, EQ, etc) but get to bypass their lower quality amp/dac and use your own which will last much longer and sound much better.
I use a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-990 Pro 250ohms coupled with Schiit Magni and Modi for my headphone amp and digital/analog converter combo. The magni/modi combo is great for flat sound i.e doesn't add any extra sound qualities in the conversion or amplification (pro for some, con for others) and they power the 250ohm version of the DT-990 pros wonderfully. The DT-990 pros themselves are great metal headphones in my opinion. First off, they are the most comfortable headphones I've ever put on, I've worn them 8 hours a day for the past 2 months and sometimes forget they're even on. The soft velour earpads are fucking superb. Sound quality wise they're amazing as well. Massive soundstage, when I got them one of the first songs I played was Inside the Particle Storm- Dark Tranquillity and I was motherfucking blown away, and it doesn't hurt that they're good for FPS gaming as well. Amazing, punchy bass, but not overdone at all like you find in some DJ headphones. Good mids and nice highs. Some people find the treble on the dt-990s to be fatiguing but I've yet to come across that and even if I did I could get rid of the problem through the equalizer.
Have you looked into Shiit amplifiers? You can get an amp and a USB DAC, which works plug-and-play with the PS4, for like $200.
If this sounds like an option, definitely look around at other amp/DAC combos. Just be ready to overthink it until your head explodes...
Stock alt. Big 3 the voltage has always sit at 14.9-15.2 depending on temperature.
Focal 8 inch components
Sony 4 channel bridged to 2
pioneer 9601
Hoping to upgrade to a pioneer 80prs head unit soon. Maybe the pioneer 8604 for the doors as well. Getting away from a ab amp for the doors would be more efficient.
EDIT: Capacitor Bank
The regulator on this alt/car is extremely slow this drastically help stabilize my voltage. Used to it would drop to 13.8 which isn’t bad but when the Bass note would stop it would spike to 15.7 which I didn’t like at all. Now when the bass note stops it will dump excess current into the capacitors instead of spiking.
Also I do not listen to sine wave type music.
I started with the Sync 2 system in my 2016 Explorer and noticed the clipping as well. It drove me crazy along with sync 2/MFT. I too had most of my climate involved with the HU and sought out possible solutions. I ended up installing a sync 3 system from a newer parted ford along with This. I also added a small sub, but would still have been possible without the sub. After install, absolutely 0 clipping! It changed everything and sounds fantastic for pretty much a stock setup!
I can not recommend this unit enough:
Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120 6.2-Inch Capacitive Touchscreen Smartphone Receiver Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0FHsDbY8Y0Y0S
It has Apple CarPlay as well as android auto depending on your phone. Great sound, customizable lights on the front to match your interior, even HDMI in the back (look up adding a raspberry pi car computer).
I’ve bought two for my wife and I and would buy a third if I had a car to put it in.
Also congratulations on your car! Enjoy it and don’t forget to 👋
This one is pretty plain; doesn't even have a CD player, but does play USB or Bluetooth audio. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-MVH-X380BT-Digital-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01463U20E
You're not going to find a double-din in your budget, unless it was already stolen from another vehicle.
If you're concerned about theft, you can cover over the manufacturer name or other identifying text with some black electrical tape to further camouflage it.
Get Polk db series 6x9 and Pioneer GMsub amp. For 5" (I assume up front) see if these Polk db components would fit.
The Polks are very loud and I'd recommend as much sub as you can muster to match their output. I have the db6501 6.5" components fed by a bridged 4ch amp (~200 watts/ch) and they're nearly ear-killing w/o distoring. My 12" sub in a sealed box can barely keep up, a large ported box or even 2 subs would be suggested.
The key to getting "good volume" from a head unit is picking a set of speakers that have a good/high efficiency rating.
The key to picking a "good sounding" set of speakers is listening to your options once you narrow down a few sets that have a good efficiency rating. Considering that good sounding is subjective that part is completely up to you.
Finding a set of after market speakers that aren't going to be underpowered by a head unit can be difficult. That's because most quality after market speakers require more power primarily because most people upgrade to an amplifier while also paying a premium price for a speaker upgrade.
These following 6x9 speakers would be my pick for a low wattage high efficiency driver that would make the most of you head units power. If you notice the following pages will offer a package deal for the matching 6.5's
Pioneer TS-A6995R Car Speaker - Set of 2 (1 pair) (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LUG30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GjrzxbG0605JM
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bnrzxbDXEQMEW
I wouldn't even buy a kenwood amp, but if I were in your position, and wanted better sound without breaking the bank, here's what I'd do.
4 of these($80/pair) on this amp($149). I'm no expert though, but that'd run you about $310, and I've heard good things about Polks DB series.
Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.
Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.
Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!
That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.
Edit: Link
Get a powered amplifier, it will help strengthen the signal into it.
Also keep in mind, every split you will loose about 50% signal. A powered splitter would be a great investment IMO.
I have mine split into 4 HD Homerun Extends with no lose of signal using a ChannelMaster Splitter.
It is a power transformer, but sends power via coax instead of what you are accustomed. https://www.fws.co/images/product/medium/6567.jpg
It is used with cable amplifiers, typically if 5 or more TVs are in a home.
plugs into the top left port on this https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE amp.
looking at your rabbitears it seems that the stations that are south of the home are weak... but as an added bonus the broadcast towers that are south of you are pointing their signal south and away from you... so thats good if you don't want to be infiltrated by evil tv waves... but
one thing you have going for you is even your strongest signal from the northeast is weak its about 35db and most tvs will max out at about 90db but really you give yourself another 10db or so of buffer because these signal levels are approximate they could be slightly higher or lower.
so a real large and strong antenna will give you about 12-16db of boost... so you have your 35 + 15 = 50db ...
so that means you can use a strong preamp on that antenna like a ChannelMaster 7777 30db gain amp... the brand new ones are 26db i think not sure if you're gonna get a older one someplace.
so that will get you 80db of power maybe on your strongest signal maybe... and bring the other signals up to the 70's ... maybe... which is pretty good...
but power and signal quality are different.. you have to have signal for it to be amped and if the signal is flaky then you are amping flaky signal... but if the signal is flaky because it drops weak a bit then maybe a preamp right at the antenna will help a lot.
I am 60+ miles out in a few directions.... I picked 2 of those directions and pointed the very large full size 9 foot long and wide antennas at these broadcast towers.......... I then added CM7777 amps to each antenna... I combine them with a special coax splitter and then I run that cable to a distribution amp that has 8 ports to feed the rooms.. the distribution amp bumps the signal 4 more db .. So I have my 12db antenna + 30db of amp + 4db of distribution amp... I only have one splitter to combine the two antennas...
My strongest signal is 36db my weakest signal that i get really well is 7db .. I do at times get signals rated below 0 depending on weather conditions... normally rain makes things better because the signals that would bounce out into space bounce back off the clouds and to the ground... which is weird... also when a storm is behind a distant station it bounces that signal back towards me.... but those stations are not dependable only the ones about 7db and higher I can count on to be available all day every day.
loose wire crimps or improperly made crimps on wires are a big factor... they have to be good. that white plastic center insulator should come into the connector until its flush on the bottom when you look inside the connector.. it shouldn't be recessed.. it should be on the inside floor of the connector with the center copper wire poking all the way out of the connector about 1/4 inch. and they have to be tight and not spin on the wire or be loose.
then ummmmm splitters... splitters suck all the life out of your system so you have to use a distribution amp when you have low level signals. a regular 2 port out splitter will steal 50% of your signal.. the more ports the more they steal -3.5 to -11db .. not good so you run your antenna directly to the distribution amp and then you feed each room off the distribution amp.
If you need to (you don't) use a combiner / splitter like i am to combine 2 antennas you only use special power passing splitter to let the dc power for the amps to get through.
....................
so ... big antenna (you have no hopes of fox without a big antenna outside on the roof) pointed southeast at 125deg .. big amp... distribution amp... check your cable connectors.. don't use extra splitters
Big antenna like this
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Universal-Outdoor-Element-ANT3036Z/dp/B00009W3BW
PreAmp
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-CM-7777-Antenna-Preamplifier/dp/B000GGKOG8/
Distribution Amp
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE/
but like I said your signal is bad and in some cases its pointed away from you.
good luck :o)
edit as for you... you need the same (the strongest you can get) and maybe a small tower
Just adding. A box of RG6 cable is cheap so you may also want something like a distribution amplifier (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Otherwise you may experience to much loss when connecting multiple equipment (tv, pvr, pc). For ex., I have three tv's and a mythbox connected to the one antenna.
Buy an antenna with nothing less than ~12db gain. Unless you living under their transmission tower ie.,
Late Edit: I see a link to tvfool below, it's a great resource (site survey).
I noticed some have advised replacing the DISH splitters with regular splitters. That may or may not be necessary; if it's an older dish system the splitters it used may be perfectly capable of splitting the signal from your antenna. On the other hand, if the dish had multiple LNB's on it then you probably will need to remove and replace all the Dish Network splitters. If you can post a good, clear picture of the splitter(s) we can probably tell you if they will need to be replaced.
However if you are in an area where all your received signals are a bit on the weak side then you may instead want to replace any splitters with an amplified splitter such as one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE?keywords=channel%20master%20splitter&qid=1449601660&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Note they come in 2, 4, and 8 port models so you can match the number of outputs to the number of TV's you are feeding. The idea is to eliminate the loss normally associated with splitting the signal. On the other hand, if all the signals you want to receive are very strong, then adding one of these would be overkill and you can just get by with a passive splitter. If you post a link to your TVFool report we can give you better advice on this.
You need either one dual 4 ohm sub or two 4 ohm single voice subs both ran in parallel and that will get you to two ohms.
The thing is though and no one has told you this so far, do not waste your money on that sub. The amp is a little suspect, I don't think for that money it's going to actually deliver 500 watts but the sub is a 100% waste of your money.
If it takes time to save more money, do that. Do it right. You will be pissed off that you wasted your money on a half ass solution and even more pissed off when you find out no one will even give you half what you paid for it originally.
Pinch your pennies, sell your blood, blow sailors down by the dock but whatever you do don't waste your money on that pioneer sub.
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/1265900/main/tsw310d4.jpg That is the back of it, the black part you see isn't the magnet, thats just plastic they molded to look like a magnet. The red circle you see is the actual magnet, it looks more like this http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/UFYAAOSwDN1UTsdL/$_57.JPG
Alpine Type R fits in the price range. For a little bit over $200 you can go Sundown SA-12 . I’ve got one of these on 1500 watts in about 3 cu ft box and it pounds hard!
Head unit :some kenwood /pioneer that you like- $200ish
Front : [These ] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20992_JL-Audio-C2-650.html) - 250
Rears: [These] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com) -100
Sub: [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q)
Amp: [this] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64240_Kicker-CX600.1-12CX600.1.html)
Sound deadener : Stinger roadkill $100ish on sonic
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
> boss r1000m
My bad, it's actually this one: Boss R1100M
I thought it was 1000+ reviews but its 700. Still though, all those people actually believe they're getting the bargain of the century.
I don't blame Boss though. They're doing a very good job of getting people to buy their stuff, and although we all rip them on this subreddit, we're not their target audience. Their target is high schoolers and people that shop at Walmart that are going to be happy with their purchase because they have "2000W" sound systems and can show off to their friends and what-not.
But it's when they try to sell that crap on Craigslist that always gets me. "2000W Bose 2 12" Competition Subwoofer in Bandpass Box, $300"
With a tiny $50 dollar Boss amp, 2 Boss subs and one of those disgusting prefab "bandpass" boxes with the 'Dual' or 'Pyle' subs in them and have blue LEDs inside.
/rant
this one I've used before and it was even cheaper back then...sounds great for any sort of stock speaker setup and has a bunch of functionality. have them in multiple cars for a year+ each, good deal
So you want no bluetooth audio streaming, but since you want Spotify, you want a aux in.
There is a super cheap Boss on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S50WPG/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473795820&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&th=1&psc=1
I also installed 5.25's in front and 6.5's in the rear like u/Bageeka did, and can vouch that the sound difference is huge. Oddly enough i also used kickers, since they were like $34 at bestbuy. But if your on a budget, check out [this deck] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S50WPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), its super cheap and ive been more than happy with it.
Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers
These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.
Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS
Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.
The biggest buyers remorse for me was the 730 Nav/XM radio with the hard drive. Jeez does that thing suck. I'm not kidding, it was a $1895 option and is worse than anything I've ever encountered. The XM sound quality is terrible - generally flat regardless of setup. The NAV functions cause instant rage trying to input a location, and of course they want $200 two years later to update the maps. The only thing that sounds halfway decent is playing high bitrate MP3s, but only after I replaced the garbage factory speakers with higher end units.
Basically, you could replace every single function the in-car entertainment system does with a cheap cell phone, and have it all done much better.
I imagine that you just need an amp like this. The specs are pretty darn nice for its size imo. Then you find some speakers with the same RMS rating.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE
I own a 2015 Challenger.. and I run a JL W6v3. Sounds amazing.
As far as speakers go I plan on changing out the door/dash with component Polk and the rear with composites, so I agree with you on the brand choice there as well. You won't need to worry about finding/building/commissioning the right enclosure if you go with something like this. To answer your question about the amp, you will absolutely need one for a sub. A decent 4 channel amp could provide not only your sub (bridged @ 150W) power but can also handle your two new door speakers as well. The door speakers could run just on your headunit but will be lacking the power they could have with an aftermarket amp.
I just picked up the rockford r400.4d a couple of weeks ago. So far it's been awesome! And since the place I got it from was a certified retailer they price matched the Amazon price for me.
how would this amp work? a bit less expensive but still overrated on power for my sub. Rated at 750 Watts rms at 1 ohm.
Thanks for the quick reply. Told him he will need a better box.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463443730&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+750+rms
Is that the amp you speak of? $210 on amazon.
Also what wiring kit? I see many posted here and I don't know which would be best for his specific setup.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/
For an Alpine Type R Subwoofer, if you're looking at an inexpensive amp that has some reliability to it, to perform well.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8 Make sure to get a Dual 2 ohm sub wired in parallel to get full power out of this amp.
I also suggest you put that sub in a ported/vented box to get the full potential out of it.
i would go straight for rockford with one of these but you could also grab a hifonics unit and be okay
ok good, its a fine subwoofer in the right box (make your own, dont buy one) but get the d2 and wire it like this
And for an amp under $200 to power it, really I would say the Twisted Sounds 1k, but its a bit over your budget, but wonderful amp. OR, here is one right on 200 that does 750rms
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
Thanks a ton, dude. Still new to all this. The other sub I was considering is this Rockford Fosgate. I guess I'll think it over for a bit.
I don't think you need to spend $200 on a sub if you're just adding frequency. If everything else is stock and you're not in a large SUV or van I would just go with a single 12". One of these two perhaps http://amzn.com/B0028AYIXK http://amzn.com/B004UFHXNI
But the sound quality and loudness will depend heavily on your amp - what do you have or have in mind to push the sub?
If your looking for a sub I personally have this Rockford Fosgate in my trunk that give my car more than enough bass and uses about a fraction of the space.
This one is nice. I would go for the 12. And all you need to run is power, ground, and 2 rcas 1 left and 1 right. I don't know how they wired a combined channel but I would run new RCAs from the head unit back to the powered sub.
I recommend a powered sub! I just put this in my LJ: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I love it! Didn't even replace the other speakers and it sounds so much better! With the top on, this thing POUNDS the inside of the Jeep, so much that I've had to turn it down when playing EDM. With the top off, even at highway speeds, the bass comes through and just makes everything sound better. I was able to run a high pass filter for the overhead and dash speakers taking the pressure off of them, making them sound louder and crisper.
This is of course an alternative to adding an amp and messing with everything, which is more hassle, more hardware to hide, more wires to run, and more money to spend. Let me know if youve got any questions.
It is a Fiio e17 Dac and Fiio e09k.
I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.
I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.
I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-2&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41txNfEtYYL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-4&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.
I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades
https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3
https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/
Any questions I'll try to get to after work.
Thanks
You want portable or is this just at home?
If you're only at home O2/ODAC combo or the Magni/Modi combo.
Magni: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13
Modi :http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14
O2 : http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=o2full
ODAC (this is the combo and the odac by itself) http://www.jdslabs.com/storecat.php?fetchcat=5
If you want to be on the go as well at home I would say the E17/E09k combo. This way you can take the E17 on the go but dock it at home.
E17 : http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754570&sr=1-1&keywords=e17
E09k : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754606&sr=1-2&keywords=e17
If you want to do away with a pricier DAC a behringer uca202 is an easy substitute.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754731&sr=1-1&keywords=uca202
Edit - Links
I also have a 2014 VW and the issue you've described has nothing to with the the phone, but is entirely the fault of VW. They neglected to support any of the Bluetooth profiles except A2DP, which is why it works so well when streaming.
I noticed this right away after purchasing the car and was really disappointed by how terrible the Bluetooth support is for the built-in receiver. For a moment I considered taking it back but my wife talked me down suggesting an after market receiver instead -- which I haven't purchased yet. In my previous vehicle, I had a $150 receiver and it was much better. Meanwhile, I'm stuck with this piece of crap.
MS seems to have tried to work around this by allowing us to call Cortana as a contact, but that doesn't always work for me either. I've noticed that I'll get an announcement for an incoming text message and it will drop off before completely reading the message or drop off before I can finish the reply. This might work better with Cyan though, I need to load it still.
Should I just go to a double din? I was thinking about this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372826076&sr=1-1&keywords=fh-x700bt
I also appreciate your advice about the quality.
might go with http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_15?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1421119580&sr=1-15&keywords=car+cd+player
instead.
I bought this one on Amazon based on the reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091UW7F6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pretty highly rated. I'll have it installed in my truck this weekend.
Thanks man, but I am not familiar with your nomenclature there. What do you mean as Dac? Is that another amp?
And I am really impressed at the 60$ you're throwing at me. They're cheap for the quality you seem to express.
The schiit Magni is 99$, is it this one?
EDIT: Oh, DAC (Digital to Analog) converter?
Pioneer gm-d8604, and gm-8601 is around 250.
You could do a pair of skar shallow 12's and keep your back seat. You could probably step up to the pioneer 9601 and single american bass xr15 and get skull smashing clean bass without totally destroying your budget.
0.95 cubic feet per sub or total? If its 0.95 cubic feet total then this pioneer shallow mount is your best bet. You can get two and wire them in parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms. Use this matching pioneer amp and you've got an el cheapo system that should sound decent.
1200 at 1 ohm does the job for me at a little more than your budget https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cIXfvb1CMFT35
I'm guessing by 2ohm sub you mean dual voice coil 2 ohm (dvc2). Idk much about kicker to know if they offer a single voice coil cvx. If your sub is indeed dual voice coil 2ohm, then you don't want the kx800.1 because it isn't stable at 1ohm, which is what a dvc2 would wire in to.
Maybe something like one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLL68C/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1495037809&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Soundstream+amp
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=psdcmw_10980751_t1_B005KW10ES
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKEKNUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495037966&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=skar+audio+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51LNu-gWXYL&ref=plSrch
I don't necessarily recommend getting them from Amazon, I use as a link because they are all in one place and easy to show you a price. You can get them from there, but check out some verified dealers if you want warranty and all. If you find out that you have a single voice coil 2ohm then get the kicker amp. These are for dvc2
I have a few, but it depends on your budget. If you are looking for all in one DAC and Amp combos, the two I would suggest are:
BUDGET
FiiO E10K and the NuForce uDAC3
Both of those would be great options for a budget solution, and they are tiny so they double as a portable or mobile Dac/Amp. They get power from USB, but it should be enough to drive 50ohm headphones. The Fiio is going to be the cheaper of the two, around $75, and the Nuforce will be around $100. Sometimes the Nuforce uDac3 will be around $70-$80 on amazon, but it's usually around $100.
MORE EXPENSIVE
If you have between $200-$300 budget, then I would recommend the Modi 2 and Magni 2 by Schiit Audio. It is usually referred to as the 'Schiit Stack" (because you literally stack them on top of each other lol), but you don't have to stack them.
If you go to their site, it will lists all of their amps, and all of their Dacs. The Magni 2 is the Amp, and the Modi 2 is the Dac. There are the basic versions (which is what I have), and they run $99 each if you order directly through Schiit, which comes out to $200 for the set. They also make an "Uber" version of each, which runs about $150 bucks per unit, which is $300 total. The differences between the standard and Uber version or sort of minimal, but the Uber version of the Schiit stack is regarded by many audiophiles as the best "budget" audiophile Dac/Amp setup. For the price, it rivals many solid state and tube amp and dacs that cost $500+ dollars.
I have the Standard version, and it sounds great with my AKG K612's. There is a list somewhere of all of the headsets that sound great with the Schiit stack, and what kind of sound signature you get out of each. The best thing to do if you already know what kind of sound signature you like out of your headphones, is to find the Headphone + Dac/Amp combo that produces that type of sound, and pic that. But I would say that the HD598's + the Schiit stack will be perfectly fine for you, but of course that will be up for you to decide if you were to go this route.
MY SUGGESTION
I would recommend the budget route, at least until you know what kind of sound signature you like. Some people want flat sounding cans, others want bright highs (probably really good for hearing gunshots and footsteps), others want a more warm sound, where the mids really break through the track and the bass really kicks.
The budget option will be a cheap way for you to determine if the HD598's produce the type of sound you like. If they do, then you can upgrade your Dac and Amp in the future, OR just change to a different headset if you decide that you want more highs, or more low end.
Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.
- Dominator Platinum is a great choice if you have the budget for it (it looks like you do)
- I'd get a beefy air cooler like this one. AIOs are nice to have and look at but in the end, air cooling will work best.
- Don't bother with a sound card. If you want good audio, invest in a dac amplifier like this one.
Finally, I think you'd have a lot of fun putting this kick-ass build together yourself. Not everyone has the time or the expertise, but if you have the time and patience, I think you'd find it rewarding.
Sure, you just need a line out converter. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AAQGybXNRFXF9
Upgrading to the OEM Sony system is a no go(unless you have a lot of time and money) as it uses a CAN bus system, meaning you would need to swap out the unit, harness, and any other units that aren't CAN bus compatible. the stock system can sound good however. i added a sub to mine and I'm satisfied with it.(for now)
I set up a sub in my ST1 not long after getting it. There are 3 things you'll need:
its as easy as splicing into the wires for one or two of the speakers depending on if you want one channel or two. Its definitely a bit of work, but not bad at all. I did it all myself in a couple of hours.
You can also do new speakers as others have mentioned, Thats probably where ill go next once i get tired of just the amp.
If you want to actually mirror your screen, you need this with a radio that accepts HDMI. Carplay is similar to mirroring, there's plenty of youtube videos that demonstrates what it's about, a lot more limited than mirroring though. I don't personally use it but the Kenwood DDX9703S is a beautiful radio, if you want a cheaper radio though this Pioneer is neat as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPHDA120-APPRADIO4-Apple-Carplay/dp/B00O8B7CFS
Pioneer MVH-X380BT is what is in my car.
Pioneer is what my stereo and rear speakers are! Really good bang for your buck.
My system is this:
[Two 10" kickers] (http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C104-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Black/dp/B0036W7OTY)
[Two 6x9 pioneer speakers] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A0LXRL8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453465764&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Pioneer+6x9&dpPl=1&dpID=41qJDTntLvL&ref=plSrch)
Stock door speakers, sadly atm lol
Aaaand [my new stereo] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01463U20E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453465860&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=pioneer+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=41T1-0Yjz6L&ref=plSrch)
I drive a small car and if i could do it over again I'd probably go with eight inch subs, but i love pioneer/kicker/JBL
I left out my amp but that is also pioneer haha
Had that DIN radio couple months back, turned out to be a faulty one. Always had issues with my iPhone.. Thought it was my iPhone, jumped to my note same issues. (iPhone had less occurrence of the issue)
Was within amazon return period, exchanged for a different one and it was fine
I think it has to do with the B/T radio interference and it not being able to switch to a less congested channel
is this your DIN? https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
If so, if you look through the reviews, 10% of the reviewers have this issue. you must be that 10%
if you don't care about power ratings and just want bluetooth/usb, Amazon has a Boss radio they sell for $22 with instant coupon Partner this with a $4 wiring kit and you have bluetooth/usb jams for under $30.
Im sure I will get some audio guys downvoting me for recommending an off brand radio, but after using some of Boss' stuff, I can say its hand on heart a decent alternative to the big guys, they sound pretty good and the cost is really low.
Boss even has a couple of decent double din touch screens for under $100, or if you want to go super cheap, Amazon Prime days has a few of the off brand Chinese double dins for under $50 that get extremely good reviews, and typically have the benefit of being able to mirror your smart phone screen and/or play movies. I currently have this guy in my Honda Civic, and it powers the factory speakers better than the original radio, plus it supports Apple Car play, which $160 is a killer deal to be able to modernize any older car with this feature.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)
It's a Topping Dac/Amp shelf. It's not specifically for a Schiit stack but fits almost perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/Topping-14x14x4-5cm-A30-D30-Transparency/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ
[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CG8N0H8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525723790&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=car+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=417SC3Qi7lL&ref=plSrch v). Isaw a couple for under $20 after a little browsing but the first cheap one I found was $30 and didn't think they could get much cheaper.
ok, so looking into it they aren't necessarily audiophile features, but they are still completley unnecessary for someone who just wants something to give them a few modern conveniences (like an AUX jack and bluetooth for example) and not much else (for example, GPS navigation, or a touch screen, both not necessary whatsoever for a good quality head unit)
in fact, looking at amazon now, even around $80 seems to be a bit on the high side for a decent head unit, as i'm seeing pretty good quality ones for around $50-$60 on amazon
like this pioneer for example: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-4&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
or if you don't care about CD playback, this boss unit is on sale from it's usual price of $66 to now about $30
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-3&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
and it has a few more options (not including CD) over the pioneer, as not only does it have aux, but it also has USB, SD Card, and bluetooth if you happen to have a phone without a headphone jack
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_91DyDbM7Q8D07
Check these out they are pretty inexpensive and there are lots of options: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=boss+car+stereo
I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-612UA-Single-DIN-MECH-LESS-Receiver/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474663449&sr=1-4&keywords=boss%2Bcar%2Bstereo&th=1
Its the best seller version but with bluetooth.
Good idea. Is this the kind of unit you’re talking about? https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Multimedia-Stereo/dp/B01CG8N0H8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_14
Then I’d only need an aux to connect to my laptop and a 12v power supply to plug into an outlet, right?
Thanks for any advice, I am not technically knowledgeable so you’re really helping me.
The only downside I see is the lack of saved radio stations. Can you cycle through them with only the headunit? As I understand, an app would be required.
I'm tempted to go for the [Boss 616UAB] (https://smile.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Multimedia-Stereo/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=head+unit&qid=1557254287&s=gateway&sr=8-3) though i do think that brand is well distrusted around here.^ Reading the reviews it looks like the screen fails almost immediately. That's too bad.
You can get a decent bluetooth/USB capable head unit for about $30. That's what you'd spend on a FM transmitter at Best Buy. Installation is not difficult and any reasonably popular car will have a walk-through on YouTube.
Topping 14x14x4.5cm for A30 D30 Amplier Shelf Transparency https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCZQ0ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OwIMDbG4TDK4S
I just called my local Best Buy, they set me up with a harness and din adapter no issues. Keep in mind when changing your receiver you will lose likely the door mounted speakers and your steering wheel controls. I didn't mind as I got a way better set up for a little over $200
Here's what I got and I am VERY happy with it
BOSS AUDIO 616UAB Single-DIN MECH-LESS Multimedia Player (no CD or DVD), Receiver, Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG8N0H8/
ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pb6MybFVX6G0F
And this woofer
Rockville RTB12A 12" 600w Powered Subwoofer Bass Tube + Bass Remote+Amp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PYXBZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hc6Myb37Q7HC0
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Multimedia-Stereo/dp/B01CG8N0H8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_15 would this work
I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.
Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65
Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64
Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88
Here are the parts I'm considering so far
2 sets of these for all 4 doors
Alpine SPS-610C 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Type-S Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004THAWHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqsnyb7A57SH7
These 6x9 for rear deck
Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WusnybVYBR8YD
This for getting signal to amp. Not sure if complete overkill for my goal setup.
AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bwsnyb2TGNBDW
And this subwoofer. I might go with 2 of them when I add them to my car.
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kysnybS8CXRZS
Like stated above I have no idea on the amplifier. I would like to have it power my speakers and subwoofer, so I'm guessing a multi channel would be better? In the end i would like to have a woofer and tweeter per door, 2 rear deck 6x9, and a subwoofer or 2. Please let me know if anything needs to change. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.
Circling back around to this. Work work work.... Anyway. I'm looking at the following:
Channel Master CM-3020 Long Range VHF, UHF, FM and HDTV Antenna
CMSTCM7777 - CHANNEL MASTER CM-7777 Titan 2 Preamp (High Gain)
Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signal
​
Should i get the below LTE Filter? Any other thoughts or suggestions?
​
Channel Master LTE Filter Improves TV Antenna Signals
Post pictures of all the labeling. Use imgur.com and post a link.
Could be the power for something like this antenna amp.
> I just didn't want those crazy massive silver looking alien and antennas.
Well those silver alien antennas. Are the NORMAL average TV antenna that has been around for decades. Proven tech, and it works.
The newer flat antennas are new designs, and they have their time and place. In a metro environment where the TV signals are practically baking you.
At 50 miles, even amp'd you are pushing your limits.
The first rule of RF, anything RF. If you want it pretty, forget it!
> So my set up is a bit more complex and im still not done. I don't have a clue on how to ground it or anything or what to put where.
http://otadtv.com/installation/index.html#ground
>And I need my antenna to run to every coax cable in the house.
Do you have home runs to each antenna from some place?
You need something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505307172&sr=1-3&keywords=distribution+amp
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Amplifier-Internet-Signal-Booster/dp/B001EKCGT8/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505307172&sr=1-5&keywords=distribution+amp
The thing is that you have an ACTIVE ANTENNA which needs power.
Antenna ---- cable--- lighting arrestor --- ground block --- power inserter for amp --- dist amp --- TV's
>Im not sure how u did everything in under an hour
Simple.. EXISTING DBS wiring was reused. Unbox antenna, snap elements into place, go to roof, loosen bolts on dish, pull up, throw off roof. Put in 6ft extension pipe in J mount, drill hole through J mount and pole, tighten. Put antenna on pole, aim, tighten, connect cable. Do scan on TV..Check! Tighten everything up good and tight. Tidy up cables with zip ties.. DONE! 55 channels, gross. That's everything of value and the cruft, minus a few LP/CD stations that are very low power and outside the beamwidth, plus one semi distant sort of next market/same market.
The thing is I've been doing RF work of some sort for DECADES. Antennas, cable, etc. is MY LIFE.
U want to use a pre amp right out of the antenna then in that closet u want to use an amplified splitter
Winegard LNA-200 Boost XT HDTV Preamplifier, TV Antenna Amplifier Signal Booster, HD Digital VHF UHF Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQN3R9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aIOUCb8Y0P3Z7
Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PI09SE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IOUCbA1M57E5
Thank you for the response! It caused me to go back and confirm that yes, it is pre-amped with a built-in. I tend to forget that.
I agree. I read up on this today and it seems my splitting situation is drastically reducing the signal downline. To address this, I purchased this today: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm thinking I will ditch the 2 splitters I showed you and install this off the power supply to the pre-amplifier. I will then split this signal 3 ways (leaving one port unused) to our 3 TVs we are primarily using.
This will basically leave me with the following setup: Signal --> Pre-Amplifier --> Distribution Amplifier --> 3 TVs
This this is the correct approach? Somebody else advised I setup 2 antennas on the roof, with one dedicated to VHF-Hi. I would rather not have to deal with obtaining and setting up an appropriately sized ladder again since it was a pain in the ass getting it 25ft up there in the first place.
Thanks for the ideas, everyone.
I've since procured one of these (an Onn ONA16AV004 Digital Signal Amplifier):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DL27Y9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And one of these (a Channel Master CM3414 4-Port Distribution Amplifier) to replace my existing passive splitter:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So, I learned there's a difference in VHF and UHF channels and the antennas one should get, and what used to be VHF around here, no longer is. Most of all my channels (in the 76102 area code) are in the UHF range, with just about 2 that remain VHF...and both of those are shown to be difficult to receive in my area.
I also ensured my antenna is facing the best direction, using my iPhone's compass to more accurately match what degrees the various websites say it should be facing.
And with the Signal Amplifier, I now get all the channels when I'm in the attic, with the VHF channels having about a 30% signal strength. The rest are about 50% - 75%.
However, when I test it out at the end of the line-drop before the splitter (which is in the basement, about 20-25 feet below), I lose all the VHF channels. The rest of the channel strength remain more-or-less the same (if they're degraded much, my TV isn't really showing me exactly how much. It pretty much just reads "bad/normal/good").
Now, with the Distribution Amplifier, I test at the end of those lines (basically, the living room and bedrooms) and signal loss is more substantial, and I lose more channels that were originally in that 50% range when in the attic. But at least I get a lot more channels than I did before...
Any suggestions of what else I could try (short of going up to the roof)?
​
To answer questions:I live in an ~100 year old house, so the walls are thick, but the gable where I placed the antenna in the attic is relatively thin (compared to the rest of the house). It just has to receive signal through douglas fur wood and asbestos tiles. The antenna is probably about 30' off the ground.
Most of coax is ran near to other power lines, and I'm considering adjusting those to ensure they aren't overlapping or touching. One of them is ran over fluorescent lights.
Here are the rabbit ear results:https://www.rabbitears.info/searchmap.php?request=result&study_id=22534
​
Thanks so much!
Yep, you'll pick up the split. That's where getting the antenna up as high as you can and doing everything you can to minimize signal attenuation after it hits your antenna comes into play, because you're not receiving either broadcast at full strength with a directional or yagi antenna at that point.
I actually came up with a solution at my grandpa's house (one of my earlier antenna installs) because I was running into so much signal loss in his older home with the way the attic was finished off, with chicken wire embedded in the old plaster: an antenna array. I used two antennas, one pointed north and one pointed west, that run into a splitter/combiner. THAT did the trick, after a year of dicking around with different aerials and positions in the attic following the initial digital broadcast transition. Trick was that feedlines to the splitter/combiner have to be EXACTLY the same length so there's no interference. I found out later on when I got my amateur radio license that this is something done commonly with ham radio setups, but you don't see it often with TV antennas. Since then, I've borrowed from my ham radio knowledge pretty heavily for OTA TV antenna installs and it's been very valuable.
Now, if you're ever looking to serve more than those two TVs, you'll need this. This is a little lower end model, but does the job just fine for 90% of people. No need to go with an Arris just for OTA TV. Love 'em and will absolutely use 'em when they're left behind by the cable company, but they're not necessary in most cases.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
First off if youre wanting that kind of bass youre going to have to build a box to spec of whatever sub youre getting. Personally i would suggest 1 or 2 Sundown SA-12's
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637886&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+sa+12
and a proper amp http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637961&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics
If you're trying to keep your budget in the vicinity of $500 I'd still seriously recommend that MTX RTL package. - it's truly not a compromise - it's a very well made amplifier, efficient and well built subs in the right enclosure with the right wiring for under 5 bills delivered to your door.
If you want to double that budget and get significantly louder without compromises, an MTX TH1200.1D is a well-built CEA-rated, no joke amplifier that has no difficulty delivering 1200+ watts at 1 ohm, a pair of the Sundown SA 12's wired to 1 ohm and an Obcon Freak box... if that doesn't rattle your brain into goo, you're not human :)
So with these subs, where would I go to get a box? And since I'm an idiot, is that price for both subs or just one? And I'm not sure what you mean by, "tuned to the low 30's". Finally, if I'm getting two 750w speakers, doesn't that mean I should go for a 1500w amp?
HOw about this sundown? Think it’s the same one, but dual 4ohm
Yea this one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1
I'm about to buy 1 sundown sa 12 and a box and amp after reading the reviews. This link is to a 750 watt. It says 4 ohm, but in the description it says "RE: 7/07 ohms" What am I missing? Does it mean that it's 4 ohm if wired in parallel? I went to best buy and test drove some subs the guy had and I think I'd like something ~ 750W so if I bought a sundown sa 12 750W, what amp do you think would be good with either impedance however I decided to wire it?
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.
Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!
Alright. Yeah I can do 250. Was thinking of getting the wiring here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4
And it looks like the D4 version is the same price!
http://amzn.com/B003ZWBG7Q
Yeah my Jeep puddles up pretty good near the front which worries me and I will keep all that in mind. For reference purposes the subs and amp that I bought are these:
http://www.amazon.com/Package-Wrangler-Kicker-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00KJ0ZI4O
http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538114641&sr=8-3&keywords=amp+car
I'm using that amp, and I forgot the name of the sub im using.
Here you go. I think it should work.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-BV9757B-Double-DIN-Motorized-Touchscreen/dp/B00HZA6E6W
And here are the cheapo amps I think im gonna get.
https://www.amazon.com/EV4-400-EVOLUTION-400-Watt-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B003GSLEE4/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487419851&sr=1-12&keywords=4+channel+amp
and
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487446228&sr=1-2&keywords=monoblock+amp&refinements=p_36%3A-5500
Online reviews are useless. You dont know the background of the reviewer. Might be the only sub he has ever heard. Also people can get paid for their reviews.
Probably the worst amp you can buy and has 4 stars.
I'm just wondering out of curiosity... Can Amazon reviews not be trusted? There are barely any negative reviews about the Boss amplifier
I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Equalizer:26$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839
2 speakers: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Amp: 46$
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Wiring: 16$
Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
anyone else get a kick out of pic 3 for that boss amp?... installed in the cooler
here it is if too lazy to look
Are you going to feed the sound from the phone to the car speakers?
If yes, then you need a car stereo with a 3.5mm jack. Then just buy a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cord and then a phone car charger.
If you just want to play over your phone speakers then just get a car charger.
EDIT: Like this car stereo. http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395996738&sr=8-2&keywords=car+stereo
/u/lightzalot I would probably buy you this car radio if I had the money - because I like gadgets and am clueless about beauty products. Or possibly something for the kitchen. Or maybe a vibrator if I knew you really, really, well, since I've never bought someone a sex-toy before, and I like the name "Pico Bong".
$ 34 US free shipping- not half assed
http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG
Very cheap
Check Amazon, there's the JVC KD-R320 Vehicle CD Receiver with Dual AUX at amazon like $60 including shipping and the Boss 612UA MP3-Compatible Digital Media AM/FM Receiver for like $35
http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369779270&sr=8-2&keywords=aux+head+unit
You weren't searching hard enough.
So just to make sure, I can just buy the basic wiring harness, the proper dashkit, and that basic BOSS stereo and I'll be fine? I want to make sure because my bullshit detector was going off when he told me I absolutely needed it, and that the BOSS stereo was not compatible with my stereo, and had the gall to stick to his guns when I told him the stereo that had just had been stolen was an 11-year old basic BOSS stereo.
Once again, I plan on buying this Boss stereo, and this dash kit and wiring harness for a completely stock 2004 Acura RSX. If that looks good, just let me know and I'll order it right now. And of course, I won't be going to Fry's (despite my friend having an employee discount) since the guy that lied to my face is the only one certified to install car audio.
I have the same 2015 unlimited sport and the speakers were pretty bad.
I have this amp mounted under the driver dash to the left of the brake pedal. There is a little cross bar. I fabricated a bracket out of an old steel computer case and some rivets.
4x of the Kicker 77KICK10. Those are a direct fit part and improve the quality by far even without the amp
4x of these 3.5" speakers to replace the stock paper crap.
After replacing all of these, this sounds great for me. I also have a 10" sub that runs off the same amp in the back that I can remove at any time when I choose to take my hard top off. I just googled some Jeep speaker replacement and managed to do it all myself.
This is plenty loud so that if I had the top off and going down the highway I would have no problem hearing anything, no crackling or distortion. let me know if you have any particular questions
https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491113422&sr=8-1&keywords=jk+speaker
I just did these in my soundbar on my 2017. Difference is night and day and it took me all of 5 minutes to install them.
low price and decent amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE
That PM100X1 was exactly the type of product I had in mind, thank you, but you're right, pricing makes it not worth it.
I had no idea LOC were a thing until you mentioned the concept, but yeah, it looks like that's the way to go.
So if I'm understanding what you're suggesting correctly, a setup may looking something like this...
I decided to go with your recommendation from amazon. Will get it by Friday and will use that until my repair comes back. Thanks for all your help!!!
Not super cheap but the Rockford Fosgate 400 4D is a 400 watt 4 channel that runs my JBL 6x9s. About $140 to $160.
Here's an Amazon link for $142:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q8uUzbQ3Q9ENF
Okay, I may go with putting it under the seat. What about this Rockford Fosgate?
>Also, do you know whether RF considers Amazon an authorized dealer, in the event a warranty claim comes up?
I found out that if sold directly by Amazon, Rockford will support warranty claims.
Either this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524367389&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+r750-1d
or this http://www.down4soundshop.com/skar-audio-rp-800-1d-monoblock-amplifier/
The SQ amp is $210, but I found a Rockford Prime 750 on Amazon for $192 (every little bit helps).
I also found an ATrend enclosure with identical specs to the one recommended on the SQ website for $65 instead of $141, HERE.
What do you think?
EDIT: I added some more amps to my OP.
SEE EDIT
Original comment:
That amp only puts out 1000watts "MAX" which means the RMS value could be anywhere from 400-500watts. The GM-D8601 Actually puts out more real watts. I suggest neither of those amps... and go with a Rockford because it does have a subsonic filter.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494536780&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+750
It's more money, but it is much higher quality.
EDIT: I'm incorrect disregard the above.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8
This one would give the best sound for both?
So after looking over the suggestions I threw together my version of the system.
Head Unit
Front Speakers
Rear Speakers
4 Channel Amp
Sub
Sub Amp
Now I just need to figure out what RCA's to get and what sound dampener to get.
Tough first build I hope it comes out sick.
I’d suggest stretching the budget a hair and getting Image Dynamics ID10’s
Or going a hair bigger on the enclosure and getting image Dynamics ID12’s
They’re nice budget SQ-ish subs that do well in sealed enclosures.
Feed them with about 750watt amp at 1 ohm and they’ll sound very nice.
Something like this or this
Or this
Would pair up nicely
Ported isn’t going to work in that amount of space.
Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...
Let's do this a little bit differently.
Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.
Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.
Do this instead:
Same brand but higher model
With this amp
and this wiring kit.
Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size
No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.
All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.
I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.
I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.
Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.
Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M
Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.
If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.
Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.
I don't have a spare tire in my Renegade so I took off the false floor in the back, and the thin layer above the styrofoam you're talking about, as well as all the styrofoam and stuffed this guy in between the peg that's there to hold the spare tire in place and the curved wall of the tire well. The floor panel fits flush on top of it. You can't even tell the sub is in there if the stereo is off. Sounds great too.
I had this installed yesterday on my r53 Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JQUNub0HRBAVS and it sounds amazing! I also have an a kenwood stereo($100) and replaced the front speakers with some Polk audio($60) ones and my mini can bump!
You should be good to go from there.
An alternative option is this for the sub and sub amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B007AQ2W2Q
If you can stretch it, this will blow away the skar monoblock and pioneer sub, and comes in a custom designed enclosure for the Rockford sub. I am a pretty big fan of this one for a bass package.
Hello all. Hopefully this is right place to post this but I'm considering getting [Rockford Fosgate P300](Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7eMlybWSAD857)
For my 2011 F150 super crew. Anyone have any opinions on these?
If you only have 250 and don't want to spend more..
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W2Q
+ wiring is about as close as you will get... not including a LOC...
Dunno what sub and box the shop is using to have the cost at 200$
These are easy, cheap, and don’t take up a ton of room. My Chevy SS with a Bose system was severely lacking bass. I’m not an audio person by any means but it kicks up the bass nicely.
Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_35.UCbPS8RJPR
Oh, and I don't know if it helps, but here's the parts we're working with:
Enclosed Rockford sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q
Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBRWZW
Front door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072
Rear door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072
Check out the Rockford Fosgate p300. It is a powered sub that comes in a 10" or 12" for a few bucks more. I just got the 12" and it is awesome. More bass than I need. I got the sub and wiring kit for right around $200. I went with this because both versions have incredibly positive reviews, the price didn't break my budget, it doesn't take up a huge amount of space, and it was my first sub install so having a single unit seemed easier.
I've been thinking about buying a pair of semi quality headphones for a while now. The DT770 seems like the best choice for it's price but I'm very new to all of this so I don't really understand most of this stuff.
Budget: Around 250€, but for a good reason I can up it a bit.
Source: PC only. Probably.
Isolation: I'll use them solely at home so not too necessary. Though it would be great if it blocked out my roommates voice(from the next room) if we're in the same voice chat.
Type: Full-size.
Balance: A bit of bass is alright but I'd like them balanced.
Past headphones: Some cheap <50€ stuff..
Preferred Music: Any and everything.
So unless you guys have so brilliant ideas I think I'm going with the DT770, but I'd need some advice with the amplifiers. A friend of mine suggested the FiiO E07K but since I'll almost definitely will use it only on my desktop would something like E09K be a better choice? Like I said, I'm fucking clueless when it comes down to these so all help is appreciated.
Links for clarity:
E07K
E09K
Or both?
Thanks in advance.
My first and most idiot-proof MP3 player: Creative NOMAD MuVo 128 MB MP3 Player. Yes, an indomitable ONE HUNDRED TWENTY-EIGHT MEGABYTES. Absolute INSANITY.
Other keys features: no display, hot red color, plays MP3 AND WMA, and holds 4 whole hours of WMA music. What more do you need?
The icing on the cake? I knew nothing about audio formats, so I would convert all of my songs to the lowest possible bit-rate. I used to brag about how many songs I could cram on that thing. Cringe-worthy in retrospect.
As for giveaways, I would suggest this DAC or this amp.
Actually, just spend $17 more dollars and raffle this.
Background!
What I own so far:
What I'm looking to get/upgrade to:
Some extra info:
Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.
The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.
If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.
Hey! I'm trying to hook up my PC setup to my new Samsung MU7000 TV via its TOSLINK (optical) connection.
I have two monitor speakers and a sub connected to a FiiO E09K amplifier, and a pair of RCA cables running from the amp to this DAC, which is connected to the TV via an optical cable.
I either get static or a mid-frequency hum, even when I've tinkered with the settings on the TV. Any clue where I've gone wrong?
You want to separate the DAC and headphone amp and Speaker amp sections. Trying to find an all in one is never good.
I'd go Odac RCA version ($170) + FiiO E09K ($100) + Emotiva Mini X100 ($190)
That way you can use the 3.5mm and RCA outputs of the Odac with no splitters and feed both the E09K for headphones and the Mini X100 at the same time.
Have you considered the HD600's or HD650's? The 700's you should really listen to before you consider buying. They are a bit "unique" in their implementation and some people just can't get into the way it sounds (me included)
Tube Vs Solid state is a taste thing. If you can sample a few, do so. Just know tubes distort sound in a warm and loving way.. but are inaccurate. If you want accuracy you need a solid state.
If the amp didn't have to be HUGE the SMSL SA50 for $66 would also work
Is this the E07K + E09K combo? (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417724915&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e7 + http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0H50ZT2069A3FRNX3AXW ?)
If so... Do they come with original packaging? I'm assuming 8-9/10 cosmetic condition and 10/10 functionality?
So would you recommend something like this?, then?
Hi, I know absolutely nothing about audio power amplifier and came here in hope for some help.
I have a Beyerdynamic 770 Pro and want to fix an amplifier to it, I have checked most of FIIIO E09K ( http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-De.../dp/B008J26ZL4 ) but every time I check up reviews or YouTube videos then fiioe17 is always included.
I'm guessing it's because the E09K is not DAC included, but I dont really know what kind of difference it makes. I understand it converts the signals, but I dont get what that does in practic.
So I decided to look at amplifiers with DAC included and came up with either FIIO E10K or Hegel Super(this one is more expensive but there's a 50% discount on it).
Which one should I choose? All help is greatly appreciated.
The headphones are connected to my computer, I'm not going to use an amplifier for my phone or laptop. And I dont have a sound card
Looking at the parrot asteroid, those are a bit pricey. I was thinking something more along the lines of this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Any thoughts?
I am installing a pioneer double din in my 2003 jetta with monsoon audio (steering wheel controls) on wednesday and I am going to use this which will allow me to use the monsoon amp with the pioneer deck and keep steering wheel controls.
Edit: I used to have the non-bluetooth version of the stereo you linked to and I would recommend it.
So I found out that Amazon allows sorting their car electronics by input options and features, so that might be a good place to start. I doubt I'll find something with AM/FM and CB, though, as they require such different hardware antennas (...is that right?) Also doubt I'll find a police scanner, ha...
I'm wondering how important/nice bluetooth would be. Anybody have comments in that regard?
EDIT: the Pioneer FH-X700BT seems like a good place to start.
Also found the Uniden BearTracker, which appears to fit in a standard car stereo slot (1 DIN?)
I may end up going for a simple AM/FM/CD/USB/AUX 1DIN stereo, with a Uniden police scanner or a CB radio in the other slot. Uniden's Bearcat seems cool, but it's expensive... And I'm also reconsidering why the fuck I need a police scanner... Especially at these prices. It was a cool idea, but I don't think I exactly need it right now, so...
I just fit a Pioneer FH-X 700 BT installed. No regrets. Granted, I've only had it for a few months, but I have nothing to complain about. I have bluetooth, USB, AUX, and the usual rest of stuff. I got mine price matched at Best Buy for $130. They have a singe din version similar to this in features, but I took the Double Din just because it's easier to use.
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6
i have a [Pioneer fh-x700bt] (http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-In-Dash-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420397635&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pioneer+fh-x700bt)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091UW7F6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397267422&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
My main requirement is some way for me to hook my phone into it, this one seems to be the best possible solution, but I'm seeing mixed things about it in fords. Also not sure what secondary hardware would be required and... well, yeah.
I'm hoping to beat the subs down to about $150-160. The RF amp is sold, but this Lightning Audio amp isn't. Reference page for that amp, 1200 watt, 4 channel. Should be plenty to handle those subs. Still looking at the same Pioneer head unit at this point tho, but now brand new and slightly cheaper.
You'll need an amp to drive those. I'd recommend an O2 or a Schiit Magni.
Out of everything you have listed I think you should get these instead.
DT 990 Premium (250ohm):
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Applications/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410317&amp;sr=1-1
ATH-M50x:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410360&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ath-m50
As for Amp/DACS:
Schiit Magni/Modi:
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396410429&amp;sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CICPN0K/ref=s9_simh_gw_p23_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=042YMDTAE4G9HN1Q9AF0&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
It's not necessary but I would recommend one. Plenty of options here but you'll want to budget around $100. Schiit Magni is hard to beat at this price range: LINK
Is there a, non-portable version of the Fiio E11? I have been considering the Magni Headphone Amplifier
OK...so you really only need an amp then.
http://www.amazon.com/Schiit-SCH-07-Magni-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CICPMA6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418235112&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=headphone+amp
There ya go. Right in budget and awesome.
Is THIS the amp in question? The magni can drive the 600s well? I've heard some mixed reviews on it. Would I just be wasting my money? Would there be a significant sound difference over the HD598s with no amp? Enough to justify the $250 price difference? That could be within my price range considering I found the HD600s for $300, and the amp for $80.
A few headphones that have piqued my interest are:
I don't want to replace my HD 595s with the newer HD 598s as the design flaws, and cheap plastic, still seem to be an issue. After about 7-8 years of daily but gentle use my 595s have cracked on both sides (not my picture, but similar damage) and now are only held together with duct tape =). Also, I wouldn't mind an upgrade - as long as it lasts a decade or longer.
For the headphone amp, I was considering the Schiit Magni, but I'm open to suggestions.
Thanks!
Gaming is a totally different story from what the people here are buying their headphones for (mostly). Personally, if you just want a solid pair of headphones, I like and always recommend the Audio Technica ATH M50. Now, these will plug just fine into your pc BUT if you want some proper listening gear use the rest of that money and a bit more to get the Schiit Magni headphone amp and the Modi DAC. If they're gaming headphones though, you really don't need that.
I assume you want an amp that costs $200? Rule of thumb for buying subs and amps is that the amp will always cost more. You will not find a suitable amp for $200
I lied. -D9601 2,400 WATTS CLASS-D MONO AMP by Pioneer http/www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_joeWtb12TCA4Y not sure if bridgeable due to Amazon's lack of information
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LmE6xbKXHW2GV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IvE6xbV8VMN6B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3VMT42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VwE6xb45EYG7S
I have a [pioneer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zHh6wbD89X5A8), I wanted the sub I purchased because I was under the impression that I could get a sealed box. That wasn't true, sonic electronics had incorrect info listed. I was going to purchase a sealed box for the new sub since I'm getting credit for the return. I've never used the sub
From the sidebar, here ya go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479707951&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=9601+pioneer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51YozvhmIYL&amp;ref=plSrch
This amp with knukonceptz 4 gauge.
And a soundqubed hds315 or sundown sa15 is what I would recommend. The hds315 is on sale in 5 days. The amp will be perfect
In terms of a DAC, I run a Schiit Fulla 2, which is an amp/dac combo for 100USD. I know Fiio also offers something similar at the same price.
I have my computer hooked up via USB to my Fulla. The DAC output (on the back) is then connected to my '86 RX-9V that I got for 200 bucks, and I use the 1/4" jack that is already on the Fulla for my headphones since it also functions as an amp.
There are a lot if low-budget USB DACs out there that you could hook to the receiver. You will need to invest in cables and such though, so it's hard for me to say if the way I did it was the cheapest way, but for the performance I get, I feel like I have spent a relatively small amount.
You could easily get an old receiver for around 50 bucks, then spend the other 50 on a small entry-level USB DAC (like this or this), and hook them up with a 3.5mm to RCA (or whatever termination you need for whatever receiver you get). It won't be the most powerful or best sounding system in the world, but it will get the job done.
I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.
I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?
FiiO E10K (Link)
Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)
AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)
Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:
Hey guys,
The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.
Here is my current equipment at my work desk:
These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
https://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC3-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/
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Hi! I just recently discovered that there is better quality music than what I had been experiencing and I'm hoping to start out a nice setup. I was thinking of buying the Nuforce uDac3 (link below if you are not familiar with it) and I was wondering if this is enough. I have a few pairs of nice headphones (audio Technica ath-900x, Sennheiser hd598, brainwavs hm5). Do I need to buy new headphones/speakers too? I mainly listen to rap/hip-hop with an emphasis on Eminem.
NuForce uDAC3 Mobile USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MUq6ybMNCCGAQ
>PAC lP7-2
Also, I read on the max forum people were saying this LOC made a huge difference over a lower quality one..
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=LOC&qid=1563194668&s=gateway&sr=8-5
&#x200B;
Not sure how accurate that is but it's a lot more expensive ($80 vs $20)..
I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1
This little beauty. It’s more expensive than other line out converters, but totally worth it.
Do not use a standard LOC for the new civic. The EX head unit has a hidden EQ thats non-djustable and greatly reduces bass output before the signal is output to the speakers. Grab an AudioControl LC2i and use that to tap into the FRONT speakers, as they have a higher bass signal than the rears. The LC2i has a bass correction function, allowowing you to bring the bass frequencies back in line with the rest of the spectrum. The unit is also a powered unit with its own power and ground, giving 7+ volts of signal output vs the 0.5v from a nornal LOC, which will result in a cleaner signal with less noise.
The radio removal is simple. On each side of the radio/center console, there is a trim piece that simple pops off. Start at the rear/bottom (near gear selector) and pop them up. From there, the climate control area pops straight out. Once that's out, you'll see two 8mm bolts underneath the radio which is holding the screen in. Remove them, then pop the screen off, its held on by two pressure clips on the top corners once you have removed the two previously mentioned 8mm bolts. You can then tap into the front left and right door speakers with some quick splices (as in don't cut the lines, just tap into them. You want to keep your front speakers working), and tie them into the LC2i. Tap into the cigarette lighter's power line right there in front for power to the LC2i, since it only received power when the cars switch is on and won't cause your battery to drain. You can either run your audio signal and power to the LC2i to the trunk using 9-wire (google it, its a sleaved line with 9 separate insulated wires in it), or mount the LC2i in the dash somewhere. Either way, ground the LC2i to a clean metal point once youve decided where to install it. From there, run your RCA cables from the LC2i's sub output (not "Main") to your amp. Adjust the AccuBass setting to bring bass back into the signal, then your amps gain to the loudness you like. You'll want to take your time on this part so you dont have muddy bass, or dirty boomy bass. Make it sound clean and tight first with the AccuBass adjustment first, then feel free to make the sub as loud as you like using the amp Gain. Also, the LC2i has its own remote sigbal output that you can send to your amps remote turn on, so youre not having to run an extra wire.
Hope this helps. Take your time, be careful when removing any panels, make it looks good. Don't use electrical tape.
Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!
this would be better for the money . i would spend more and the lc2i
I would say the installation will probably be around $100-$150
Here’s a link to Geek Squad. Their installation is about $65 plus parts. I would think with a mount kit and the steering wheel control integration you would probably be at around $100-$120
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/car-deck-installation-hardware-not-included/3582102.p?skuId=3582102
I bought my Pioneer AppRadio 4 off Amazon. (SPH-DA120) it is CarPlay enabled. I really like it but would recommend you also get a matte screen protector for it as well or else the fingerprints get pretty bad. (I had to wipe mine off daily with my OCD)
Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120 6.2-Inch Capacitive Touchscreen Smartphone Receiver Display. Here is a listing for one at $330. There may be cheaper options out there now if you do some shopping around. I’m not sure.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jRH4AbQBZ71HF
So I’m guessing stereo + parts + install would be around $450 roughly.
Preaching to the wrong person. I save all my text messages for when I'm done driving, if I get a call I either ignore it all together or pick up and tell whoever is on the other side of the line that I will call back as soon as I'm done driving. Plus, I have one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS
It handles calls and media controls so I never have to pick up and look at my phone.
All I'm saying is, I'm more tolerant of people who decide to wait to look at their phone when at a stop light. Worse case scenario is they get to annoy me and everyone behind them because they can't be bothered to look up every second or so. In contrast, a person looking at a phone while a vehicle is in motion can lead to a wreck in varying degrees of severity.
But if by odd chance you do catch me with my phone in my hand at a red light, tomatoes away.
Amazon have some but it’s a little pricey
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-SPHDA120-Apple-CarPlay-Stereo/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=Pioneer+Apple+CarPlay+Stereo&amp;qid=1565109647&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
I am looking for something similar as well, and although I have no experience with this one, it looks nice:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462902699&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=android+auto
My friend has a head unit with Apple car play and it honestly looks just like an iPhone without the button. It's very sleek, very clean, and when powered on it's not riddled with bright flashing colors. I'll link it once I find it.
This is the closest I could find but it's not too far off: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS
it does look good, how does it compare to the Pioneer AppRadio 4?
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS
I wanted carplay mainly for the maps function but according to one review I watched, google maps still cant be used and apple maps is still garbage... lol
Maybe not that model... but here -
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPHDA120-APPRADIO4-Apple-Carplay/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422663704&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=nav+with+carplay
I've been looking at this on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CFS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1GRTT9GHGRY0B
I really like the minimal look of the interface.
I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.
The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.
Radio with bluetooth and USB/Aux (no CD).... https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-MVH-X380BT-Digital-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01463U20E
Several manufacturers have a model or two like this now, no CD or Tape.
What do you define as pretty cheap? Anything around $20 will be garbage. You need to spend at least $50 for anything half decent.
half decent
full decent
'99 Subaru Legacy Outback
Today I installed this in it.
And promptly killed the battery by testing different wiring configurations too frequently without starting it. WOOOO.
I just went through replacing with a modern radio this weekend. Had great success with a really shallow radio, no CD player. Fit nicely. I also did all the wiring so if you wanna install without and amp I can explain how I did it. Radio was maybe 80$ plus some small speakers.
EDIT: Link to my kickass new stereo :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01463U20E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought this one. I don't have any issues with it and it's also really small. My car is too loud to really hear the speakers though.
My car has Bluetooth, I bought Bluetooth earbuds two years ago and never looked back to the audio jack. Wearing corded earbuds feels like being on a leash. Using the aux and the phone is a big spaghetti mess of cables on the shifter.
Here is a Bluetooth car radio for $75
Pioneer MVH-X380BT Digital Media Receiver with Short Chassis Design and Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01463U20E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZO00xb1GP04FN
you can even use the charger in the radios usb, that's one plug, exactly what you want! the new phone will probably come with ear buds can we be done with all this whining?
>Some people can't buy a brand new car just to have the newest technology
You don't have to buy a new car. You can buy a new receiver unit for cheap... cheap as in $36: http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394303431&amp;sr=1-1
That's probably what this tape converter would cost, but a new receiver will sound 100 times better. Converting from digital to analog in that little tape unit and then sending that analog through the tape deck's read head is going to produce a lot of noise and a lack of clarity - fantastic if you're a hipster, but awful if you care about form or function.
Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120
This is probably the most(only?) reputable aftermarket brand that offers Apple Car Play.