(Part 3) Best ethernet cables according to redditors

In my experience, WiFi extenders are garbage and have massive speed degradation. I have a similar issue with my house, where only one side has effective coverage.

What I did was run an Ethernet cable from the “out” port on my router through the ceiling and attic to the “internet” port on a secondary router on he other side of the house.

You could do the same by digging a shallow trench through the yard and running an Ethernet cable through joined pvc pipes. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/200FT-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01GTKF8FG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=75Z0GO89GHQZ&keywords=200+ethernet+cable&qid=1567095010&s=gateway&sprefix=200’+ethernet%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-3) is a 200’ cable for $17.50. PVC pipes are also cheap, so we’re really not talking about a lot of money, or an incredible amount of skill required. The most expensive portion would be for a second router, but the connectivity can’t be beat.

Ethernet cables (Cat 5/5e/6/6a) can be run up to 100 meters (328 feet) without needing a switch or repeater, per their specification. You can sometimes buy pre-made cables in long lengths, anything longer than 100 feet usually requires you to make your own, or order a custom cable.

Edit: That said, looks like you can get a 200-foot Cat6 cable on Amazon for under $20.

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

Well, the person saved themselves 8.73 at best. https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Category-5e-Crossover-Molded-Patch/dp/B000067RFT

As a side note, I've pretty much given up on wifi for anything other than mobile devices and just run physical cables to various places in the apartment -- There's a hub located at the entertainment center and in my home office so it's only 2 cables going around.

Solves almost all my ridiculous network problems -- windows browsing, strange buffering issues with Netflix and other streaming, random disconnects, etc. I used the flat cables, some extremely long versions of this cable I picked up during a Monoprice sale.

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

> or an ethernet socket which can be put in-line rather than one that is designed for wall use. I mean, would it kill people to have a commercially available ethernet extension cable with a plug on one end and a socket on the other?

You mean like this?

So something to know about 5GHz because not all 5GHz is the same...

Point 1: 5GHz is a narrower frequency (higher), meaning it can't penetrate walls as much. So while you'll get higher speeds from it, you'll actually reduce your range.

Point 2: You can have slow 5GHz because of the WiFi standard it's outputting. E.g. 802.11n (WiFi 4), can transmit over a 5GHz band, but it'll still be restricted to 802.11n speeds. (<=300Mbps).

Point 3: You can have fast 5GHz speeds by using a newer standard like 802.11ac (WiFi 5) and get 1300Mbps (3x faster).

Point 4: You shouldn't be relying on WiFi for fast speeds, it should be for mobile devices and occasionally IoT.

Point 5: To ensure you're not over-using your 5GHz channel, put every IoT device and non-essential wireless devices on 2.4GHz where the difference won't be noticed, leaving the devices that do matter, on the "better" standard.

Point 6: Get a CAT6/7 cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4705I4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and get 100+ feet, and never worry about WiFi again :)

My solution to exactly this issue:

Flat Ethernet cable, tiny 3m cable clips.

The skirting boards in our house are white and the cable is halfway down below the carpet, so most people don't even notice it until I point it out to them. Goes through a doorway without getting in the way, too.

Those flat cables may or may not be great for long distances, but I've got that 25' / 8m one running gigabit and ~11W of PoE and have no issues whatsoever.

VIVO Black 500ft Bulk Cat6, Full Copper Ethernet Cable, 23 AWG | Cat-6 Wire, Waterproof, Outdoor, Direct Burial (CABLE-V014) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E7GEZEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y.xKDb6TKC7M4

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.

I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).

I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).

$150-180 +Tax (if Prime) to DIY
You need a spool of cat 5e/6, 6 Keystone jacks, 3+ Faceplates, some single and double gang brackets and a few cheap tools.

The brackets are what goes into the dry wall so the face plates have something to screw into.
Single / Double Gang is the size of the bracket.
Single gand = the size of a box for 1 outlet.
Double Gang = The size of a box for 2 outlets (side by side)

Tools: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Portable-Ethernet-Crimping-Detector/dp/B01JU2XERY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1497913897&sr=8-27&keywords=cat+5+punch+down

Cable: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Cable-000ft-Cat-6-VIVO/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1497914001&sr=1-2&keywords=1000+ft+cat6&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

Keystones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914060&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+6+keystone+jack

FacePlates (Dual): https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-2-Port-White/dp/B0722K3K8R/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914110&sr=8-12&keywords=keystone+faceplates
Note* You are going to be under the house or in the attic. The work sucks but its way worse going in there for a 2nd time to run 1 extra wire... do yourself a favor... if you are running 1 length to a room.... run 2.

Faceplates (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Port-Keystone-Faceplate-Dual-White/dp/B004FUWY3C/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914196&sr=8-7&keywords=keystone+faceplates

Low Voltage Bracket (Double Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWHK6C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double+gang+low+voltage+wall+plate

[BUY 3 of these] Low Voltage Bracket (Single Gang): https://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Low-Voltage-Bracket-Dual-Gang/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497914233&sr=8-2&keywords=double%2Bgang%2Blow%2Bvoltage%2Bwall%2Bplate&th=1

[EXTRA]
This is not necessary but super helpful for drilling through studs you cants see. Also keeps you from cutting more holes in the drywall than necessary. If you are done drilling holes, sell it on Craigslist for @ afterwards.
Stud Drill Bit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLGT4GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon basics is great for this kind of stuff, and this is a Cat6 Ethernet cable capable of higher speeds when paired with the right equipment (will work just find with standard router/modem/switch). $11.

AmazonBasics RJ45 Cat-6 Ethernet Patch Cable - 50 Feet (15.2 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0134QJH4G/

Edit: wording

Are you talking about rj45 connectors? You can get a bag of 100 for under $10 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/

The pass-through rj45 EZ are getting popular because people can't crimp properly anymore. Though I don't crimp anymore myself either. It's punched down into a keystone or patch panel and just get pre-made cables. Cables are too cheap to mess around making your own.

I have found Amazon to be cheaper than monoprice for cables (I don't buy in bulk though, just one cable at a time). I bought this ethernet cable for $7.80 10 months ago (it's $10 now) and if you buy $25 worth of stuff you can get free shipping (if you don't have Amazon prime). Where monoprice would charge me after shipping $22 for a similar 100ft cable.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-Feet-15-2-Meters/dp/B0134QJH4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501710826&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+6+50+ft

I had the same scenario recently. I eventually ran my own cat5e cable from my living room router to my bedroom pc. I got the cable and borrowed crimpers from my work so it was free and took about 45 minutes to run the cable under the carpet/baseboards. My total length was about 57ft. I just googled 100ft pre-terminated (aka no crimping necessary) and they're very cheap

I just buy the Amazon Basics ones. The clips are sturdy, the cables are fairly priced and I haven't had any issues.

Grey belt

Good side zip boot option for tucking pants into

Drop leg holster

Safe option for pistol for drop leg

Jumper cable clamps

Black Cat5e cable. Strip the insulation off a bit of each end like on the bag

I think that's most every thing I could see in the pictures of him I found. Let me know if I missed something and have fun!

Edit: Ebay link for maroon messenger bag

About $350 for everything I linked depending on shipping and if you have free Amazon prime 2 day shipping

You've got Orange, Green, Blue, and Brown pairs. Smells like ethernet cabling to me. Looking at the cables themselves, it seems it's shielded, too.

My guess is that the cabling is being used for phone. You could likely convert one (or more) of them for network use. If there is enough slack, you could get a simple punchdown block like this one. The back of it is color coded, so it'd be easy for you to tell which wire goes where. Then you could get some Cat5/6 patch cables and a switch (or use the 4 port switch on your router) to make the RJ45's on the walls live.

One thing I'd do first, however, is pull the wall plate for one of those RJ45 ports and make sure a yellow cable is going to it. That way you'll be nearly 100% sure you've got the right cables in that wall box. :)

https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS

Looks like $10-$15. Depending on where you get them. Menard's and Home Depot sell them if you (or your mother) would rather not buy online.

Your best bet is to run an outdoor rated Cat6 cable. It will be basically no different (unless you happen to live inside a nuclear power plant or something) than sitting right next to the router and hardwiring in.

1. No
   
2. Yes
   
3. 200ft is basically 0ft when it comes to ping time
   
4. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Underground-VIVO-CABLE-V007/dp/B00AWQ13R6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472764832&sr=1-1&keywords=outdoor+cat6
   
5. Your current router is "fine". Not great, not bad, just fine.
   
6. If you want, might give you a small speed boost but with UVerse my experience is the crap service is upstream of you.

> I can afford it, I'm just trying to have the highest quality cables for my needs.

It's your money and I don't care what you spend it on. I'm just trying to share some wisdom with you.

Three of the largest manufacturers of premium ethernet data cabling are Panduit, Belden and Commscope.

When Amazon's new Headquarters is built, I'll bet money one of those 3 manufacturer's product will be used to wire the facility.

Ok? This is the top-shelf best stuff in the industry.

https://www.commscope.com/Product-Catalog/Cables/Product/Twisted-Pair-Cables/

https://www.panduit.com/en/products/copper-systems/bulk-copper-cable/enterprise-data-center-copper-cable.html

https://www.belden.com/products/enterprise/copper/cable

None of these top-shelf, premium cable manufacturers offer CAT8 cabling.

Look at the manufacturer names of the CAT8 cables you are looking at on Amazon.

Who the hell is GLANICS ?
Who ever heard of Dacrown ?

These are cheap-assed fly by night junk dealers who are taking your money.

I acknowledge that we aren't talking about huge sums of money, but they are taking it nevertheless.

1Gbps ethernet works just fine over CAT5E cabling. CAT5E was designed for 1Gbps performance.

CAT6 took CAT5E's enhancements one step further and increased the twist-rates to better tolerate rough handling and improve EM interference. CAT6 can handle 10GbE over short distances, and 1GbE all the way out to 100M, in accordance with the ethernet specifications.

CAT7, CAT7A and CAT8 do not offer any additional performance benefit for 1Gbps operation.

They offer improved distance limits for 10, 25 and 40GbE applications. Which you don't need.

The cost increase to go with CAT6 over CAT5E is usually less than a dollar.

The cost increase to go with CAT7 or 8 is often as much as double the cost, or more, and it offers no benefit to 1Gbps operation.

If you want to pay double the cost for a cable manufactured by a lower-quality organization, using lower-quality components, you go right ahead.

But you are falling for false or misleading marketing.

These are all you need:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-5-Feet-1-5-Meters/dp/B00N2VJ2CG/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B001V7YH4G

But what do I know?
I just design & support networks for a living.
You do you.

Yeah....You should've just patched the cables to length and given us a before/after. That's easy peasy. You can get 100 ends for like $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M5BIII/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_hTDltb0T2T4HT

Nope works the same way others do: Vandesail® CAT7 Shielded RJ45 Ethernet Patch Network Cable Professional Gold Plated Plug STP Wires Cat 7 Networking Cable Premium/ Patch/ Modem/ Router/ LAN (2*(6.5 ft-2 meters-Black Flat Shielded)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013W0ARNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ESKmxbJJJNJ7E

I suggest just buying a long cable (you can get a 100' CAT 6 cable from Amazon for $10) and comparing the network diagnostics on the box directly.

You could even download something on wireless, delete it, then re-download over wired.

Given the environmental factors like interference and composition of your wall, no one can give you a 100% accurate answer. Test it yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Vandesail-Network-Gigabit-1000Mbit/dp/B013W0ARNY/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500876104&sr=1-4&keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable

You have a choice.

• Option 1: USB WiFi adapter like this. Generally cheap and crappy, but you just plug it in to a USB port.
  
• Option 2: PCIe WiFi adapter like this. Costs a little more, sucks less, and you have to install it inside your computer.
  
• Option 3: An external WiFi bridge like this. Costs more, sucks a LOT less, you will need to buy an ethernet cable to go between the bridge and your computer.
  
  

You have to have a specific type of cable, called a crossover ethernet cable.

Regular cable won't do it, you'd have to have a switch in between to control traffic.

You can also get a dock that allows you to essentially turn your old HDD into an external. You can then hook it up via USB and move the files that way.

Could do something like this as well.

https://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2

All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.

Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.

I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.

You can crimp ethernet cables quite easily - just need the end pieces and a crimp tool (this kit is GREAT)

Power cables can also be done but are a bit easier then Ethernet or telephone cables as they are just a positive/negative/ground wire into an end....pretty straight forward but I advise getting a cord that is already destroyed and working on it first...duh :P should just be copper inside colored tubes that goes to a specific end...typically red is power spot / grey or black is negative / and a completely different color is for ground - but that is a guess on my part as I've not taken one apart in forever as it is cheaper and faster to just get a different/new one.

Telephone cables are basically the same as Ethernet, just need to know the wire pin layout <-- that link is both RJ11 telephone and RJ45 ethernet layouts and its the same process (obviously need telephone ends to crimp onto it - that link has 50 to a bag).

Most cables are straight forward ESPECIALLY with the internet having the answer to cable layouts and everything :)

EDIT - once you do an ethernet cable crimp job everything else becomes very easy haha.

You are correct, as you dont want to crack the copper in a solid cat5/6. Take a look at THIS. Specifically the sizes and contacts section.

I recommend something like THIS.

Looks like you have 12 ethernet cables there, this should do

http://www.amazon.com/INTELLINET-12-Port-Wall-mount-Compatible-162470/dp/B0009JGJF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454098133&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e+panel

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Shielded-Connectors/dp/B01B4705I4

good luck

1. use Cat6 or Cat6a, it's not that much more expensive
   
2. HGHJFKLDSGLKDSJFDSLKJFSDLK $1200! wow
   
   ​
   
   You could seriously just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Underground-VIVO-CABLE-V014/dp/B01E7GEZEE/
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ITBEBE-Plated-Through-premium-Connectors/dp/B073ZM2VBK/
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers-Tools/dp/B00426HLQO/
   
   
   
   
   run it outside and then crimp the edges.
   
   
   I didn't pick the best tools or items, these were half-arsed searched. It's WAY WAY WAY less than $1200.
   
   
   Another alternative - drill through the floor/ceiling and run at a corner or in a closet.

If you have dirt all the way to your Mom's house then you might want to consider Cat 6 cable that is rated to be buried. You can dig a slit trench with a sharp shovel, stick the cable in it and the cut will close up.

Here's 1000 ft bulk underground Cat 6 for $78. Might cost you another $15 for connectors and a cable crimper.

The router, while it could be configured to do what you want, it would take a little expertise. This will probably solve your problem: www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Ethernet-Coupler/dp/B001SIGXHC/

Since you've said a PowerLine is not in your budget, I made this list of what I think are the best, most affordable ethernet cables that suit your needs. They're all on Amazon, available in white, 45-50 ft long, top rated, and will ship in 2 days with Prime.

I'm on mobile, so I apologize if these links do not work.

[Here] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057XC5C6?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405304386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 45 ft ethernet cable, low profile (1.2 mm thick) - $11.95

[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GVE?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1405303814&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 50 ft Amazon brand ethernet cable - $6.99

[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016897GS?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405303991&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a generic 50 ft ethernet cable - $5.60 (43% off)

Edit - formatting.

Yes those are monoprice slim CAT6 cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGV2C7U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

An Ethernet crimper, cable and pack of ends is not expensive and can make projects look a lot neater. Get the feed-through ends if your eyes aren't great as they make it a lot easier to get the wires in the right slots.

​

Another option are the new thin Ethernet cables, I have these in 1, 3, 7 and 10 foot lengths and they seem to be working fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGV2C7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LAN adapter that I bought, and Ethernet cord I got to go with it. Haven't seen my speed drop under 70mbps since I got it.

You want pure copper wire.

Looks like Monoprice doesn't really have outdoor shit. I usually get my indoor stuff from them, but the last time I had to get outdoor rated cable, I got it from Amazon. This is what I got.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E7GEZEE

I ran it under ground in conduit, but I figured I'd be extra sure and get some burial rated stuff. I can't say how well it will hold up to the elements, but it is double sheathed with the outer most sheath being hard, black plastic that I assume is more resistant to UV.

So, after a good hour and a half of research, I decided I really liked the ones you linked me for the price, but I gotta go all out on this. Especially since I may be moving out with a friend soon who will also be a heavy Internet user (Destiny, anime, Netflix streaming, etc).

Ended up going with this model and some surprisingly cheap CAT7 Ethernet cables in the hopes that they will be heavy duty and future proof. From what I've read, both the top-of-the-line adapters and the high-grade cables are super overkill for what I actually have as an Internet setup. But after 3 years of being mocked as the lagging guy in raids, I will do anything for an upgrade.

If these work, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Thank you for opening my eyes to this solution!

Ethernet

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

So I can plug this into it and it will work regardless of my keystones being wired as T568A?

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-SlimRun-Cat6A-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B01BGV2C7U/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=cat6a+patch+cable&qid=1563018174&s=gateway&sprefix=cat6a+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

I’m talking about some of the amazon reviews. Obviously have to take them with a grain of salt but it’s enough to make me avoid them for now.

How long do you need OP? Here's up to 50 ft

You have a 100FT cat5 cable which is significantly slower than a cat6 cable. You won't find a wireless card to give you what you want especially from 2 floors below. Many things can interfere with Wi-Fi. If you really are set on going to Wi-Fi you need to get a better router first. Which for the speeds you want is going to cost over $100 if not over $200. But you're still going to get interference and the ping is still gonna be around 100Ms. Your best bet is to get a cat6 cable and some cable covers. Basically what you're asking for isn't possible without spending a significant amount of money. Even if you did shell out the $500 you're still probably going to get some interference.

Could always pull yourself, if you aren't comfortable with terminating they sell pre-made patch cables in as long as you can use. If you aren't comfortable going up in ceilings a simple wall conduit wouldn't look bad with only a couple runs.

Case in point, here's a 200 footer for $17
https://www.amazon.com/200FT-Networking-Ethernet-Patch-Router/dp/B01GTKF8FG

You can buy bulk ethernet and coax cable in 500'-1000' spools as well as the connectors and tools from nearly every hardware, as well as online retailers such as amazon, newegg, and monoprice.

Bulk Cat 6

Cat 6 Connectors

RJ45 Ethernet Crimping Tool

Instructions (Note: this shows both straight through and cross-over cables. You only need to use a crossover cable if you are plugging two computers NIC cards directly together. In all other instances where you are going to a switch/router, you want straight through).

Bulk RG6 Coax

RG6 Compression Connectors

RG6 Compression tool

Instructions

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Wii-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1397853439&sr=1-1&keywords=wii+ethernet+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Ethernet-Cable-CAT6-30-48/dp/B000QZ0036/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397853515&sr=1-2&keywords=cat6+cable

boom fast internet.

Oh, forgot to throw in costs of a long Ethernet cord as well.

$9.39
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Premium-UltraFlat-Patch/dp/B0057XC5C6/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372441295&sr=1-20&keywords=50+ft+cat+6

It's the same with Amazon reviews. You'll see 5-stars but several hundred 1-2 star reviews say the product fell apart the day it arrived.

Edit: Or you'll see crap like this which makes claims that it can do things that aren't possible.

Save yourself a LOT of grief and just buy either a longer cable or a coupler.

amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/Cables4PC-Patch-Ethernet-Network-100FTCAT5WH/dp/B00SNP2HKK/

https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS

https://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-100FT-Networking-Ethernet-Router/dp/B01BMZ1O8I/

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-RJ45-Medium-Duty-Crimp/dp/B00004Z62S

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Cat6-Cat5E-Crimp-Connectors/dp/B003M5BIII

Do you have a picture of the point in your basement where all the Cat5 wires come together?

There should be at least a panel there something that looks like this https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat5+panel&qid=1550268373&s=gateway&sr=8-3 where all the ethernet cables connect to.

From the front of the panel there might be a bunch of wires that connect to a box (which will be a switch, or possibly a router). Probably not the switch and you'll have to acquire one. Once you have a switch then you'll be able to get the ethernet cables working.

Once you have done that, get an access point with an ethernet connection and use that in one of the rooms near your wife's office. that should give her the best connection. What would be better is to use ethernet to connect her device. That's the right way to do it if you can.

I recommend cat 7 cables. I just bought these as I needed to upgrade my cat5 cables after I upgraded to 100 mbps. It's just $8.99 for 2 6.5ft cords.

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-VANDESAIL-Gigabit-Network-Plated/dp/B013W0ARNY?th=1&psc=1

Crossover cable isnt that hard to find if you cant make it, I'm sure a local place would have it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-CAT5E-Crossover-Cable-feet-Red/dp/B000067RFT

I have no experience with adhoc wifi connection for gaming, but it could work.

It should be possible, you just need something like this

I can't say for sure if it would hinder any performance or not though.

I was planning to route the cables down the gaps in the side of the rack, but I have fewer cables than you. One thing you could look into is monoprice slim run ethernet cables. They are about half the wideth (or 1/4 the volume) of normal ethernet cables. Might make it take up less space in your rack.

Scratch that I just realized that cable I linked is copper clad aluminum. You don't want that. You want pure copper core cable.

This would be the one you want: VIVO Black Full Copper 500 ft Cat6 Ethernet Cable 23 AWG/Wire 500ft Cat-6 Waterproof Outdoor/Direct Burial/Underground (CABLE-V014) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7GEZEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U2zZCb7NXE1P5

Wrapping up my shopping list, is this cable appropriate for my needs?

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Copper-Ethernet-Cable-114768/dp/B019OM4VOA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498835828&sr=8-1&keywords=250ft+cat6

And a simple patch panel to keep things tidy?

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-12-Port-Vertical-Bracket/dp/B00UVQI8B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498835951&sr=8-1&keywords=mini%2Bpatch%2Bpanel&th=1

What is your initial internet speed?

Cat5 is a lot more solid of a connection for sure. Do you have carpet? Run this under the carpet https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Premium-UltraFlat-Patch/dp/B0057XC5C6. Will require expertise in areas like the stairs. Also, depending on the design of your house, you can drill holes. You could also use poweline adapters if its all on the same electrical circuit.

Amazon has good deals on high quality cables. I'm using the 35' version.

I happen to be on the same end of the house they stuffed the router, but I dont have wifi built into my desktop.

If 200' still isn't enough, you can buy cat6 cable in bulk. Just need to install the ends.

Yes. Here is a 10 footer and 15 foot

For extending short Ethernet cables

http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Ethernet-Coupler/dp/B001SIGXHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418690770&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+5+extender

Loos like I can beat your friend's price:

http://www.amazon.com/bulk-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-6/dp/B00AWPYG4O/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1418315393&sr=8-30&keywords=cat6+100ft

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWQ13R6?psc=1

Desktop Link to same item: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWQ13R6

Should be able to run it up to 100m without a repeater or anything like that. If you buy that bare cable you will need

Crimpers: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
Rj45 connectors: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BS92DCK

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Ethernet-Cable-Feet-31-399-10X/dp/B003O973OA/ref=lp_9938477011_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1570744075&sr=1-8

i'ts a bit cheaper, but in the big picture, only by $1.30, so not really breaking the bank.

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

I agree that your 2.4GHz signal is likely being murdered with interference. Wired is clearly the best way to go for good speeds. The best solution for speed is to probably run a network cable of the appropriate length along your baseboards, using some tacks to hold it in place. Ethernet over powerline is a possibility, but powerlines aren't meant to do that, so results are varied. If you live in a newer building with newer powerlines and the breaker box for your apartment is located in your apartment, you'll probably get good speeds. If you live in an older building and/or your breaker box is located in the basement, then it likely won't work very well.

If you dont mind wires you could just get a long cat5 cable online. They sell cheap ones on amazon. You can get a 100 foot cable for $10. They sell even longer ones also. You just have to run it so that you parents arent annoyed by it. http://www.amazon.com/WHITE-100FT-CAT5e-ETHERNET-NETWORK/dp/B002HJXGFS

This is a good idea. Even if they don't support it you can always go out and buy a cheap crossover cable

You just need a long ethernet cable running from your Genexis Tundra Titanium to the ethernet port on your computer. Quake Live over WiFi isn't recommended.

http://www.amazon.com/Cmple-Ethernet-Cable-CAT6-30-48/dp/B000QZ0036

Per 1000ft, the cabling shouldn't even be that much if you did it yourself.

Cat 5e
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V001-Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422498&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+5e+spool

Cat 6
https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-CABLE-V004-Cat6-Ethernet-Cable/dp/B0092TK2U8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422309&sr=1-2&keywords=cat+6+spool

That seems a bit excessive to me in terms of per run based on the cabling alone as the work boxes, face plates and jacks don't even cost that much. Yeah I understand the contractor needs to make money. Is the contractor putting in a patch panel as well?

What about this Monoprice Cat6 Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable, UTP, Solid, Riser Rated (CMR), 23AWG?

Thank you. Is Cat5e ok or does it have to be Cat5?

This is the one I found on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B003O973OA/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480112487&sr=1-9&keywords=ethernet+cable

> Can I change out the dsl or phone ports to ethernet since it's CAT5?

Yes, since it is Ethernet cables ran here, you'll just need to get different punch down block in the main box. So where all the Ethernet cables are centrally ran, you'd pull out that phone distribution block and replace it with the linked block and re-punch down each Ethernet cable to the block. You would then add a cable modem and router to this same area and then all the Ethernet cables would patch into the router's Ethernet ports.

​

> What could I do with the two Coax ports? One is definitely for cable, but it seems to me there's a need for some kind of audio or video connectivity option since there's a panel behind the TV. Also around the TV are pre-wired surround sound panels that lead to a spot just above one of the weird double coax panels.

The double coax is for OTA antenna. Do you have an outside TV antenna on this house by chance? Or maybe in the attic of the house?

​

Basically what the previous owner probably had was Satellite TV + OTA antenna. That is why you see two runs of coax at TV locations in the home.

​

Really not much else you can do with them unless you want to take advantage of OTA antenna as well at cable TV.

Few more details -

Are you just trying to connect 2 machines together? If so, you need a crossover ethernet cable.

Are you trying to add a 2nd computer to the same network that your primary machine is on? If so, you need a switch & a couple more cables.

I went with CAT6. But honestly, 6a might be a better choice. How long do you plan on living here? How easy will it be to run new cable later on? I went with 6 because 6a was not widely available when i did this... But if you plan on using 4k anytime soon, that takes up a LOT of broadband!

This is what i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7GEZEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I ran: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019OM4VOA/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!

​

Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!

​

PC

ETHERNET CABLE

HEADSET

MOUSE

KEYBOARD

MONITOR

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> Looking for a great VR while sitting down and have thick-ish glasses. I have an 1080ti, 32gb of RAM and an 8700K.
>
> What is the best sitting experience that's cheaper than buying a vive pro?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaj43u4/

----

> Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!
>
> ​
>
> Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!
>
> ​
>
> PC
>
> ETHERNET CABLE
>
> HEADSET
>
> MOUSE
>
> KEYBOARD
>
> MONITOR

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajdvc8/

----

> Can RGB RAM be used with any motherboard as long as it's not super basic? I'm helping a friend build but have never used RGB. We're looking at Corsair Vengeance RGB RAM.
>
> Examples of motherboards -
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qXCrxr/msi-z370-krait-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-krait-gaming
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HLvZxr/msi-z370-tomahawk-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-tomahawk
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ffYWGX/gigabyte-z370-hd3-rev-10-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-hd3-rev-10
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4hnG3C/msi-z370-pc-pro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-pc-pro

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajjgd1/

----

> I need immediate help please.
>
> I was browsing and got bluescreen "kernel security check failure". Blue screen got stuck at 55% and i restarted. Now pc gets power, shuts down and restarts. And does this continously without reaching bios.
>
> I need to send my homework in 4 hours please help...
>
> EDIT: I DID IT! When I removed the ram, computer didn't shut down immedieatly but it didn't send anything to the monitor. I thought ram died but i inserted it into DIM2 and it works. Any idea why that happened? Is it a problem with DIM1 slot I used for 4 years? I was expecting to buy another 8GB ram and there is no other slot on the motherboard.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak5ikv/

----

> Recommendation for good coolers to at least slightly overclock a Ryzen 5 2600? Shouldn't be over 50€

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak6k6r/

----

> OCing my MSI GTX 970 and temperatures hit 91°C after 2 minutes in Kombustor ?
>
> Hello, here is a screenshot of all the settings : https://i.imgur.com/UcV6hvb.png
>
>
> I first put the power limit at 110%. Then bumped the Core Clock +40Mhz same for Memory Clock until I reached +120Mhz.
>
> The fan stays at 70% but after about 1:45min the GPU reaches 91°C on kombustor and then the fan becomes really loud probably at 100% ?
>
> Is there something I'm missing here ?
>
> SPECS :
>
> GPU : MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC
> CPU : i7 3770k 3.5Ghz
> * mobo : MSI BIG BANG MARSHALL B3
>
> EDIT : If I put Core Clock at +40Mhz and run Kombustor same thing happens.
>
> EDIT 2 : If I put Core Clock at +0Mhz same thing happens.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak72qo/

----

> Is there a way to make certain programs always launch as high priority in Windows 10?
>
> I ask because I tire of manually setting games to high in the task manager every time I launch them.
>
> Also, I've heard it's not optimal to set games to real-time. What's the reason for this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak7x9r/

----

> I got a wierd problem that occurs like once every 2 hours or so: Only the main screen (the other 2 stay normal) goes black/shuts off and then as it comes back takes a sec to readjust the resolution (the screen jumps up half a sec). This usually goes ok with many games (exept it, you know, goes black for a good 3 sec) and comes back exept for AC odyssey which crashes. I have reinstalled the gpu card (gtx 1070) drivers which doesn't change anything.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaka5go/

----

User | Points
-----|-------
A_Neaunimes | 463
badillin | 432
Luminaria19 | 389
zakabog | 338
thatgermanperson | 314
Sayakai | 306
saldytuwas | 249
095179005 | 222
motionglitch | 207
Excal2 | 164


----

I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

However, if you want to run a cable this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWQ13R6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422263090&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=51hyqTA5daL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40 is what you're looking for.... sorry for the long ass link I'm on mobile.

🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Just buy a cat 5 cable and plug it into your modem directly and the other end into your pc.

Wifi is only good for browsing the internet and porn. If you're trying to game through wifi you're going to have a really bad time. Use a direct connection and you'll have a far better experience playing online games.

Edit: fuck a cat 5 cable.

Get this instead. I'll just post a link so I don't have to explain this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4705I4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1571287931&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=715n3MyT1TL&ref=plSrch

CAT-6 and i'm still getting 20 down.

Thanks yeah im in the process of buying this ethernet cable from amazon. Yes its a long ethernet cable because my fiber optic otn box which my modem is connected to is at the other side of the house and we cant really move it elsewhere.


I did test out my speeds with an ethernet cable I borrowed from a friend and it reaches to my advertised speeds, but for me Im mostly on wifi with my phone and laptop. Its ok if Idont reach the advertised speed with wifi but Im just looking for a way to at least push my speeds a little higher if possible?

I will always recommend wired connection for anything that doesn't move such as desktop PCs and most of the equipment in modern home entertainment systems.

You can get 100s of feet of ethernet for pretty cheap as well as a crimper and ends. Depending on how much they've opened up the walls you may not benefit much from doing it at the same time the wiring is being done because you don't want to run low voltage in the same bay(space between two studs) as power lines.

So I literally have a team at my house this very minute as I type this cabling my house with cat6. Now I have worked in IT for over 18 years and have punched down and ran cable in business but thats easy compared to a house and I didnt want to do it myself plus I have the money at this point to have some professionals do it. Anyway back to your question - I have always used Leviton inserts and punched them down but these guys showed up with Keystone Jacks that are effectively couplers which I was not expecting. So in your case this is what would actually work for you. Normally, you would use some inserts at the end of your cables and punch those down and put them into the patch panel BUT.. since you want to extend - you just need to use the same couplers that these guys are using.

​

So you get these couplers, one for each cable, as well as an RJ45 connector. You punch down the RJ45 connector to each cable. Then connect that to the coupler, then you are set. THEN another RJ45 connector on the end of the 6ft extension to regular Keystone jacks, put those keystone jacks into the patch panel. Thats your best option and gives you everything you need..... also at that point you say you need to extend 6ft but with this you can extend alot further as well giving you flexibility.

​

Cat6 Female to female like this:

Couplers

​

Rj45 Connector:

Rj45

​

I got 1000ft of Cat6 off Amazon with some crimpers and other stuff for ~80 shipped free with Prime I'd look into that. It seems cheap but I get great speeds on my home network with ~20 drops and a lot of them pass over electric runs and lights.
edit 1000ft cat6 for $65 off Amazon