(Part 3) Best hvac products according to redditors
We found 2,716 Reddit comments discussing the best hvac products. We ranked the 931 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
They do make them, they're called in-line vent fans.
It's an induction heater. Everything is available on Amazon. It's very easy.
(For anyone else interested) Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ
Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB
Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE
Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.
First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.
Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).
Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!
Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:
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https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg
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**Update/Parts List**
Box/Enclosure
Induction heater board w/coil
Glass tube
(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)
Mosfet
Power supply
Red toggle switch
Momentary switch
DC panel-mount jack
Insulated crimp connectors
I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.
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Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.
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Total: ~$65 USD
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TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!
Depends on the blade angles, shape, rotation speed, etc... a 6" fan can potentially move a metric shitton of CFM.
Case in point:
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Inline-Fan-Performance-Ventilation/dp/B006Z1JLY4
That thing pushes almost 450 CFM - consider your average exhaust fan for a medium to large bathroom is around 100 CFM... they make an 8 inch version able to punt almost 750 CFM as well.
Not having a "C" wire is a small problem that is easily overcome.
What wires are at your current thermostat?
Do you have any extra wires in the thermostat cable at your thermostat?.....if so....watch this instructional video---> https://youtu.be/kJEEPRkP8Ps
Do you never run your fan all by itself, and only with heat or A/C on?......is so watch these instructional videos--->1)https://youtu.be/RQQAtmV2TQs 2) https://youtu.be/R039DH7HASg 3)https://youtu.be/BftoUCnKYls
If you want to run your fan by itself and dont have an extra wire then buy a Venstar Add-A-Wire: Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tKSODbK81RECX it will give yo ut an extra wire that can be used as a "C" wire And watch this instructional video--->https://youtu.be/FjkPh1_I40A
(If you have a Heat only system(no a/c) you can buy a UK Nest-E, it has a plug in display that Communicates wirelessly to a heat link unit that wires to your two heat only thermostat wires.)
Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/
Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)
Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain
Weather strip
Window Sealing Kit
Foam Strip
When I was in an old drafty building, this window sealant tape around the frames worked wonders for eliminating drafts:https://www.amazon.com/3M-Interior-Transparent-Weather-1-5-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFF
I now have the opposite problem in my apartment where the landlord blasts heat so we have to have all windows open throughout winter and use a/c units and fans to keep it down to a reasonable temperature.
I have 2 of these installed in my house:
Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qXhdAb0376KVX
They are awesome! We had a roofing company come out and install roof vents, and the flapper is contained in them, not the fan itself. The in-line fans are much quieter than a fan with the motor installed at ceiling level. And they are easier to install in my opinion since they just have to be screwed up to attic rafters.
>recommend a grow "bible", which would it be?
The grow bible or anything else by Jorge Cervantes:
https://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Horticulture-Outdoor-Medical-Growers/dp/187882323X/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PH02JZK2F8GQF3WE1P5F
> How can I control odors when trimming, harvesting, and handling the plant in general outside of the bucket?
Ozone (controversial) or an open container of Ona with a fan blasting air over it. I do both at 3am when no one is likely to come over. I'll really crank up the ozone when I'm done and leave for an hour or so. Even being legal I still use this procedure.
The above is more for a harvest which can be very stinky. For steady odor control assistance you can drill a 1/4 inch hole or two in the lid of the Ona and just leave it in the living room.
ONA Pro works best in my experience but prefer the Apple Crumble. I have found that the Apple Crumble will not impart an odor on the plants if used in the same room.
https://www.amazon.com/Ona-Gel-Pro-30-oz/dp/B00AC1N4DM
>Do I need an air booster to use an inline carbon filter, or will a 12V PC fan have enough power on it's own?
Yes something. 12 volt PC fans often do not have enough static pressure for carbon filters. With AC fans you can use a light dimmer or a dimmer intended for inductive loads to control the fan speed if mechanical noise is an issue. The dimmers/speed controllers will usually generate some electrical noise or RFI.
https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I
I can't really recommend a seed bank (I can buy clones) but they tend to be very discrete and with many you can mail cash. Their reputation would be severely harmed if they played any games here. Some accept bitcoin.
Someone else will have to recommend an online seed shop domestically. Sensi Seeds is likely the best due to original/better genetics but they are based out of Amsterdam. I would just pack the seeds in a small alarm clock and forget about it in the past when I smuggled seeds back to the US.
LED lightbulbs, Home Depot has some that are 2 for $5 that are plenty bright and dimmable.
Get some lamps too, put LED bulbs in em. All you really need most of the time is 1-2 lamps providing light instead of the overhead lights.
While it was an absolute nessesity for my apartment since it has a tiny water heater, a low flow shower head like this (and I actually had that one, i loved it but i got a room mate and they didn't) or at least a valve to kill the water when you're soaping up like this one. Saves hot water when others need to shower, as well as saving water in general.
A window shrink-wrap kit like this one can keep the cool air in in the summer and out in the winter.
While heading on the extreme side, if your door seals as crappily as mine does Magnetic weatherstripping will keep a nice seal around your door keeping the conditioned air inside and bugs outside.
Making sure to clean the lint trap after every use is important. If you own the drier, you could also remove the back panel (unplug it first!) and clean the whole duct.
putting some outlet insulation under your outside-facing wall plate-covers will help.
If you have central air, ask your landlord if the filter is your responsibility. If it is, make sure to replace it every 30-60 days. I would recommend a Filtrete filter, since I like being able to breathe when I wake up on a high-pollen day. If you have a terminal A/C unit make sure that you clean the filter well, using a little OxyClean to get it fully clean is a good idea. Some evaporator cleaner may be needed if the metal intake fins behind the filter are dirty.
If you do have a terminal system, it may also be worth it to use safer styles of space heater instead of the terminal's heat pump. The heat pump on mine is crap.
Asking your landlord to clean your drier's wet air outlet will prevent fires, decrease drying time, and save money.
That's all I can think of.
So... you're looking to modify your current MT by adding a kettle into it?
I mean yeah you'd get better temperature stability, but that seems like an awful lot of work. You could probably accomplish the same thing by just getting some reflectix or something like that and wrapping a kettle.
A speed controller wouldn't really work for that duct booster. It's technically a duct booster and no where near the power of an actual inline fan. So it can be argued that duct booster you linked won't be strong enough to pull through a carbon filter and exhaust the heat in a timely manner. But going by the math and accounting for the carbon filter resistance you'll be able to change the air at the rate needed.
Temperatures is a different story though. As I don't know what the ambient temps run or how hot those mars leds run you're better off just getting http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF6-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B004YXDQZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1457749739&sr=1-1&keywords=ventech+inline+fan and a fan speed controller and turn that down. It's better to get a stronger fan and turn it down rather than to get a low CFM fan find yourself unable to manage the temps and need something stronger.
As far as the tent is concerned those cheapo tents tend to be a big hit or miss when it comes to light leak and construction. But it looks as if most of the people on here have cheapo tents with no problems. Nothing a bit of duck tape can't solve ^_^
Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Electric is very efficient, it's just that it's usually more expensive than gas. Light bulbs double as 100 percent efficient heaters. Fans on low generate heat and, if spinning in the proper direction help circulate warm air from the ceiling. Depending on your gas heater, some thermoelectric fans are pretty helpful.
Agree with the CO monitors. I have a Nest monitor and it doubles as a nice nightlight.
If you have electric baseboards or forced air, they can be more efficiently controlled with a new thermostat. Chances are you have the shitty twist knob ones that heat the room to 90 then turn off until it's 50 again.
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https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=baseboard+thermostat&qid=1571606653&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/TOMERSUN-Powered-Fireplace-Circulating-Efficiently/dp/B07VQNGKLK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermoelectric+fan&qid=1571606558&sr=8-4
https://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceiling-fans/fan-direction-summer-winter
Normal fans do not move enough air and cannot handle static pressure well.
I used this one before upgrading to my Vortex S-Line and still use it to scrub my room during Harvest
Had some fun with LST the other day and can't wait to work on the plants some more. I really love how quickly the plants bounce back from the training. I included some more details in the pics regarding what I believe to be a calcium deficiency. Plants were fed with 1/4 strength nutes for the first time last watering. I also sprayed both plants with neem oil as a preventative measure last night.
INFO
Plants: (1) Feminized Barney's Farm Vanilla Kush & (1) Feminized DNA Genetics Tangilope.
Tent: 3'x3'x6' Apollo Tent
Light: iPower 600w closed hood currently running at 100% power 15" away.
Fan: 440CFM exhaust fan
Carbon Scrubber: 6"x16" phresh filter
Soil: 3/4 roots organics & 1/4 big & chunky perlite
Nutes: General Organics GO Box 1 feeding of 1/4 strength calmag and grow veg last watering
Pots: RR > solo cup > 2gal smart pot (currently) > 7gal smart pot
What you want is one of these kinds of fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-435-CFM-Inline-6-Inch/dp/B006Z1JLY4/ref=pd_day0_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006Z1JLY4&pd_rd_r=63GQ560MCDYKBTZ6BQP9&pd_rd_w=IwCoq&pd_rd_wg=UxPaB&psc=1&refRID=63GQ560MCDYKBTZ6BQP9
And you plug it into one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Variable-Controller-Hydroponic-Inline-Vortex/dp/B00CJ14YVY
I'm not endorsing either product specifically, just giving an example.
If you're in a legal state or just feel more comfortable shopping around online, you should be able to find a "complete kit" of fan+filter+controller+ducting for under $150+shipping for 4" sizes.
When air is moving we dont think that there is an electric motor turning it but not getting the benefit of the air since we redirect it. A little noise to make sure there isnt a fire is a fine exchange. If it is too loud this way try moving it in the attic away from any walls.
This is the fan set up I use and once its mounted it stays quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z1JLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The transformer made all of the difference. I keep it set at about 75% of maximum.
There is a specific product that you should use to avoid causing oxidation on the aluminum and copper.
Nu-Calgon 4171-75 Evap Foam No Rinse Evaporator Coil Cleaner, 18 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cLqlDbSPDS9KR
Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I
I don't know very much about those booster fans. I have never used one but i have heard that they are not very powerful. I would try to get something like this one. The carbon filter you linked looks good though.
Like /u/blackboard mentioned, purchase a carbon filter (4" or 6" depending on size of your setup/plant total) and also get the matching duct (4" duct for 4" filter and vice versa). Also, pick up an inline-fan. A simple and effective way to set it up is to connect fan to the filter, then connect the duct to the fan so it sucks the air through the filter and through the duct, out of the tent. If you have a grow light that is set up to be cooled, just connect the light to be in between the filter and the fan. Make sure you hang or attach the carbon filter higher up in you tent/box, so it removes the hot air. Vent the duct (which is blowing out the warm/stinky air to the outdoors if possible. You can have another inline-fan/duct setup blowing into the tent, but it is not necessary. Just make sure that you have a hole or small opening on the lower, opposite side of your box for fresh air to get sucked in to replace the hot stinky air that your blowing out through the filter/fan/duct.
If that doesn't make sense to you, I can PM you a picture of my current setup.
Nutes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XTQGLO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Few packages of these to hang lights and filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010DD743O?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Extension cords
Plenty of options
Lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B4GQ6MO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fabric pots:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TF9E6XE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Air control
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H1R0K68?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001R1RXUG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Outlet timer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XC7GTCN/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01731MNJE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Carbon filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4 inch duct
Can find anywhere
Jewelers loop (super important)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K0BGNNC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
To dry your buds
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GXHQIKO?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Surge protectors and ext cords
Find anywhere
Inline fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7S46YZ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
Soil probe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017GQ9VVY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A few other things I got locally from grow shops. Quality seeds are important. Greenpointseeds.com is always having bomb sales, ship from Colorado, and are top quality. Soil from local grow shops but can also buy from online. I went cheaper on light, but I wouldn't do that again. Get good quality lights.
I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 120$
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ4VWF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 70$
It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.
The only place I can put my wineador is in the basement. I'm down to 63 deg which has me concerned. Anyone think about putting hand warmers in the fridge to keep temp up? Maybe that's not a good idea? Would a small personal heater work better? I'm putting way too much money into this hobby...
http://www.amazon.com/Cozy-Products-FW-Warmer-Heated/dp/B000079896
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000079896/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Q-oJwb47E0V1J
There's some fabric ones but I would assume they would get dirty.
It's a foot warmer, I have some weird health issues and my feet are always super cold. The pad gets hotter than you'd ever need, and I'd recommend it if you too suffer from cold feet.
Footwarmer / Dimmer
I actually like it, but this one prompted me to do something like this foot warming pad.
Sure, but like:
Have you tried this yet http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Window-Insulator-1-Window-Style/dp/B00YP5AVFA/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit Install it and shrink it with a hair dryer works really well.
Fill in any visible gaps with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-17&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit
I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail
I have no experience with rope caulk but we had good results with the 3M tape. It adhered well to glass, metal and wood and it was very easy to remove without leaving a bunch of residue behind. I wouldn't recommend regular packing tape because it might be difficult to peel off and I'd be concerned about it accidentally taking bits of varnish and paint with it.
Id' just install a fan in that hole. However, you MUST ensure it is rated for kitchen use. I had to install mine 45 degrees away from the stove.
I bought this one last year and it's great. It is so quiet we barely know it's on:
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-5&keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen
You could use this in the hole: (I used two):
http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-PC-NLF06S-WhisperLine-Accessory-6-Inch/dp/B00084UCH4/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z
Then I bought some 6" duct and a vent through the side of my gable. It did not take long to install.
I did hire an electrician to install the on/off switch and wire it all up though.
Pics:
http://i.imgur.com/pIaUVCg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/gxflsr6.jpg
The closest duct in this picture is for the microwave oven.
http://i.imgur.com/ffVVKI9.jpg
Here are other options:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apanasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen
Ha no that's not concrete. That's just either plaster or gypsum from your ceiling.
I have no idea if they still make round units like this to replace old NuTones. Even if they do, I can't imagine they work nearly as well as a standard modern square model.
I'd normally tell you to just get a standard Panasonic Whisper model, make that hole square and big enough to accommodate it (not hard at all) and call it a day.
BUT, you have attic access which is a huge bonus. You could actually have the best of both worlds if you got an inline model. You'd mount it on a nearby rafter or joist, and run a short duct to your existing round ceiling hole. No retrofit necessary. :-)
EDIT: Obviously, if you get an inline model, you'll lose the light. But maybe that's not a deal-breaker in your situation.
Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kaTBzbHS3FBBZ
Once again, it's Overkill.
Sadly you have a direct voltage / line voltage setup (240V). You'd insta-fry your Nest with this.
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The best you can get (I've been in your situation before) are these: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/r
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Which still make a huge difference, cost savings wise, to what you have.
Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU
Fashion a Reflectix liner for your backpack. Freeze whatever you can before leaving. https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP24025-24-Inch-25-Feet-Insulation/dp/B0022NH3E4
You can buy at several locations, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Also, by the foot at https://dutchwaregear.com/reflectix.html
Standard 2" foam pipe insulation, its a few dollars at a plumbing supply. Or you can wrap it in Reflectix insulation from your hardware store. The material isn't that important as long as it can stand the temps and insulate well. It isn't touching your distillate.
You want a centrifugal or a "mixed flow" fan, with the latter being supposedly quieter. I just ordered one of these to replace my pair of cheapo axial fans: Can Max Mixed Flow 6" 334cfm
None of these fans are silent by any means. The cheap axial fans are the loudest in my experience.
Paired with a speed controller, carbon filter and insulated ducting, the centrifugal fan cooling my lights is fairly bearable.
Funny, I'm sitting here drawing a diagram to upgrade my ventilation right now.
Temps are consistently between 72-78 as long as ambient stays around 70. Keeping ambient low is the trick, unless you can pull air from outside or vent outside, which is what I'm trying to work out right now.
I've got one of these on full blast pulling air from the upper part of the veg tent and venting through an HID hood in the flower tent. I have a cheap duct booster for intake. Right now it just vents to the 400sq ft room the tents are in. I'll add some pics in a few.
Here you go. Don't ask why it has a leather jacket, maybe it's in a gang?
Mine is simply a flat panel that mounts to the wall, circulates heat via convection.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=psdc_510182_t2_B00FRFFC4W
Out of the way (an inch from the wall), while it gets hot to the touch it's not going to burn you if you rest against it, much less catch anything on fire (though, d'uh, don't hang towels/fabric on the damn thing).
Best investment I've made for a bathroom after a high quality toilet. I even have mine on a programmable t-stat so it's warm first thing in the morning for my wife as she's getting ready for work at 6am.
Look for a wall-mount heater (http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815787&sr=1-1&keywords=wall+heater)
$.03/hr to run them and keeps my apt nice and warm.
There are radiant wall panels you might consider. I don't have personal experience with them. Apparently in-wall or in-ceiling radiant heat is a thing, too.
Mine is a generic Chinese 80W. Perhaps a properly built machine has more power draw but mine is nowhere near 2500W. I have something like this for exhaust. My chiller is overboard for sure (1/2 HP cooler) and sits on a separate circuit. My original circuit still has enough free amperage for me to run a hand sander occasionally though, so I know I'm not at the edge of tripping it, and if I had a more reasonably sized chiller would all fit together.
I used this when I needed to do the same, worked great, don't think I had to cut anything, just rearrange the wiring. Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yzuyDb29BCSB7
You still have a few options before running a new cable.
Here's my [Speed controller for fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI2RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This was definitely overkill, I just didn't trust cheaper voltage regulators, plus I can and have used it for other things. Pretty well made, works great, it was only like $70-$80 when I got it though.
This was my other option, but obviously I can't vouch for it.
EDIT: I'm not an electrician so I may have been unnecessarily worried, and even now I am not 100% clear with all the mixed reviews and info around fans and speed controllers.
Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.
Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.
But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.
Probably not. What kind of fan is it? Moving air through a filter is very difficult unless the fan is designed for that purpose.
This would probably work, but this would definitely not. Even though it has more CFM. I made this mistake a while ago, and wasted money I could have spent elsewhere.
You need more than 36" vertical space. Your fan + filter will take up 10", pots another 10", and you will need to keep the light 12"+ away from the plants. This tent is close in footprint, but with a much more manageable height. Tons of good tents out there though. Just make sure you have at least 5' if you are flowering. 6 or 7 is better.
Can't speak to that particular Mars light. If you only have $150US/100GBP to spend, I'd look into more options. Mars300 for a first grow is an idea. A better idea, if you have the time/inclination, is to build a light. You can get diode strips (Bridgelux EB, Samsum Series H, etc) + 100w driver for the same price, and it'll put out more useful light with less heat. If that sounds like something you want to do, search a bit on this subreddit, and post questions. Lots of builders here.
As for fans, Active Air is a solid brand. Just don't buy anything that look like this--which is a duct fan, not an inline or this--which is an inline that will work for 3 months then break.
Here you go!
Module and Coil
ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12V 20A LED switch with cover
AutoEC New 12V/20A Red LED Illuminated On/off SPST Car Automotive Toggle Switch Button https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012IHZW4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YIOWCbX59GG36
18 gauge wire
BNTECHGO 18 Gauge Silicone Wire... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQOI36M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12v 6a power supply
AspenTek Us Plug Dc 12v Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU63ICU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Then I used three spade connectors to attach the wires to the switch, which you can get from walmart
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
I did some research recently and it seems like my best bet will be going with a propane heater.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy Grey Indoor-Safe Portable RV Propane Heater (4,000 , 9,000 and 18,000 BTU) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2476BbPAWH3VT
I’m going to try this out this winter
Ah, we were using this model which is I think the biggest Mr. Buddy...
It's this guy. Markets itself as indoor safe.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy Grey Indoor-Safe Portable RV Propane Heater (4,000 , 9,000 and 18,000 BTU) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8wWSDbJWFDJ17
These industrial types of set ups are way better/cheaper/more efficient than the ones made for consumers.
Link
put hepa on the intake and carbon on the output.
Oversize the filters
Ghetto rig it then.
Cut a 6" hole in the top of the rack, use some dryer/ventilation ducting and an inline fan. Most are speed controllable, could also add a temperature based controller.
​
Dump the heat back into the same room if it is air conditioned (probably want a return), but likely it is does not have a return - so you can also dump it outside the room. Don't vent outside of your conditioned space or you will be pulling hot air from outside the house due to the negative pressure
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPFVZTZ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07FPFVZTZ&pd_rd_w=FFRBL&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=eVQaC&pf_rd_r=M58SN78A1FADY51NZDWD&pd_rd_r=20be1fe0-a415-11e9-8d7b-65f6631cf204
I don't smell my plants with my 4x4 closed. So the same thing should apply for you. Since you are venting outside you should be fine. It may be an light odor in the room. But it shouldn;t smell up the whole room until you open the tent.
This is the best on teh market. https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S6-Controller/dp/B07FPFVZTZ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ac+infinity&qid=1554815892&s=gateway&sr=8-6 There one with a humidity control as well. If not https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01DXYMJ94/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vivosun+6+inch+fan&qid=1554816051&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Will be more then enough to vent the tent out the windodw.
Check out a foot heating pad intended for use on the floor and with shoes. Similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000079896/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LVuPBbBKBJ0M7
My husband got me one a couple years back and it’s life changing.
Definitely a lot less dangerous than a space heater.
Nowadays at work I have a heating pad with an auto shutoff timer (2hrs). But my cube is way more hospitable in the winter :)
It would be more effective on your toes at this point.
Well anyway, I do vape, and part of the shop has a concrete floor, so I had the same issue.
I got one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Tiny-Tanker-Foot-Warmer/dp/B000079896/
It helps.
If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.
Something like:
I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.
The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.
Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.
A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.
One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.
http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1
You may need a different size than that.
I looked online. I know my housemate used it on one of our windows back at my old apartment. Might have been something like this.
Use this tape to seal any window/door cracks.
What about some weatherstripping? Something like this:
3M Interior Transparent Weather Sealing Tape
First thought that comes to mind: Weather stripping. Cheap, not bulky, and usually works relatively well. It won't completely fix it, but it will sure make it a lot warmer.
I used one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2
Placed in basement utility room. Intake of duct fan comes from the output side of the 3rd floor system. Output of duct fan blows to a register in basement.
So when I turn this fan on it turns over the air from all three floors. In the winter we heat with a wood-burning stove on the basement level so this helps keep everything stable. In the shoulder seasons where we have only light cooling needs, it lets us only run cooling only on the third floor and the other floors balance out. In summer we run both ACs.
I have a Panasonic Whisperline 6" fan that I use to vent the hot air from my server cabinet. It wasn't cheap, but it is SUPER quiet. I have it sitting on top of the server cabinet 3 feet from my head when I am at my desk and I don't even notice it most of the time. It is seriously quieter than my bathroom fan, but it moves up to 240CFM. The cheap "grow room" fans you see on amazon are loud as hell. It is worth it to spend the extra money on a good name brand. The Panasonic is industrial rated for continuous 24/7 use (unlike the burn-your-house-down Chinese fans), and if installed remotely (like in an atic) is basically silent.
When properly rated.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NI.0Ab19D1PMR
With electric baseboard heat it is very common to have the thermostat switching line voltage.
Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat
This is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538780090&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=line+thermostat+programmable&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL&ref=plSrch
I don't know about keeping it on all the time but I have baseboard heat in my home and I have Honeywell digital thermostats that have five levels of heat output indicated by little flames on the display. It turns on the lowest setting to maintain the set temperature. Two of mine are programmable and one is not but they all have the ability to vary the heat output.
Here is the programmable version:
Honeywell TL8230A1003 Line Volt Thermostat 240/208 VAC 7 Day Programmble https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wDahybYYAGRMQ
Here is the standard non programmable one:
Aube by Honeywell TH108PLUS/U Electric Heating Non-Programmable Thermostat with Backlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EBCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9FahybAMEW2TE
Would something like this work? The other one seems really expensive for such limited functionality.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016J2CYQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=28ZG1R5QKY6G4486AE4A&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL
Haven't taken the old ones down yet, just spoke with the condo manager...
We bought a roll of this and cut it to size to block out the sun. Put some sticky Velcro on the edge and then press it onto your door. Voilà!
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP24025-24-Inch-25-Feet-Insulation/dp/B0022NH3E4
try a foam pad, and some mylar bubble wrap
http://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP24025-24-Inch-25-Feet-Insulation/dp/B0022NH3E4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419923468&sr=8-1&keywords=Mylar+Bubble+Wrap+Insulation
the mylar will reflect your body heat back up at you.
It's called Reflectix* and is super easy to put together. The 25' roll provides more than enough to do a double layer. Cheers!
I've always wondered how reflectix would work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH3E4
530 cfm $90
440 cfm $73
Just search inline fan
Fan $74:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YXDQZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fan speed controller $21:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ducting, $16:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCES1TI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bowl that I used for a hood, $24:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYR0ZF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plus various bits of Home Depot screws, chains, eyelets, hose clamps and a stainless toilet flange to connect the bowl to the duct.
From my research, there was only one truly safe space heater for toddlers
Wow, kerosine? My Dad grew up with kerosine heaters, that's old school!!! 15a, 250w, standard 120v outlet http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413063415&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+wall+heater
I've heard great things about these!
I know the feeling of being too cold to work on stuff--I used to work in a home office that was FREEZING. I just got this awesome heater on Amazon that takes up no space and is actually quite effective in heating up a room. Might be worth the investment if you plan on working there the rest of the winter? It uses so little wattage you can even leave it on all the time so you don't have to wait for the room to heat up to work.
http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W
Ceramic Tile Heater
These things are awesome, they each use as much electricty as a 100w light bulb.
We use them in the bedrooms at night. We'll turn them on about an hour before bedtime. Then when we go to bed, we'll turn the heat way down. The tile heaters do a great job at maintaining the room's temperature throughout the night.
In the morning, our programmable thermostat slowly warms the place back up.
We've saved about 40% on our heating bill last year.
Do you mean this monstrosity of a creation? http://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Fans-435-Inline-6-Inch/dp/B006Z1JLY4/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407936391&sr=8-1&keywords=6+in+hurricane
I've run a 1000w light and cool tube without cooling it before and suffered no ill effect. I adjust the amount of airflow based on the target temp of the room the lights are in.
4 x 8 tent with two 1000w lights will need 700 - 800 CFM but this still raises ambient temp by 10 degrees Fahrenheit.
Ducting distance also plays a large part in the fan you purchase. If you're just pushing air over the light to lower its operating temp this should do it for both lights.
https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-DF-6-DF6-Duct/dp/B005KMTYFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265570&sr=8-3&keywords=6+inch+inline+fan
If you are taking the heat out of the room and are running anything close to 20 ft of tube use a fan like this
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-435-CFM-Inline-6-Inch/dp/B006Z1JLY4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265570&sr=8-9&keywords=6+inch+inline+fan
https://www.amazon.com/Hurricane-Inline-Fan-Performance-Ventilation/dp/B006Z1JLY4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=6+inch+hurricane+fan&qid=1554912572&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Its relatively quiet for how much air it sucks
Well you would need a fan with cfm that is not higher than the carbon filter rated cfms...
-(75$) Hurricane Inline Fan - 6 Inch | 435 CFM | High Performance, Commercial Grade Inline Fans - Ventilation Fan - ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Z1JLY4
-(150$)Phresh Filter 6 in x 24 in 550 CFM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032JULLY
There is many different brands. For both fans and carbon filters. Just make sure the cfms of the fan are not higher than the cfm rating on the carbon filter...also how are you gonna exhaust it out your window? It will be quite visible...you may want to buy the carbon filter in a hydroponics store...I've heard stories of getting bad/used ones from online...
You don’t have a common wire. It won’t work well. You can try this: Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've also had success with this kit, which allows you to "add" a wire. It saved me from pulling new wire or having to choose between a battery powered stat.
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PLWT8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LgDwCb5DEXP0S
I am not a professional either, but in my opinion it definitely sounds like a C-Wire issue. My house had 3 wires, Power, Heat, and Fan, so I plugged them in accordingly. This worked all summer, but as soon as winter came, the heat would turn on for about a minute, turn off for 30 seconds, turn back on for a minute, over and over until it got to the desired temperature. I quickly noticed that this of course was not appropriate behavior, which is when I learned that the C-Wire can be important. So I switched the Fan wire to the C-Wire at both my Nest and furnace, and everything works as expected now. I lost manual control of my fan, but I never used that feature anyways.
However you don't have a C-Wire or a Fan wire, so you either need to run a new wire bunch from your furnace to your thermostat so you can have a third wire, or buy something like the Venstar Add-A-Wire. Like I said though, I'm no expert, just my two cents.
It is concerning though that the Nest worked for years prior. I guess from a troubleshooting standpoint, do you have a dumb thermostat to hook up just to see if you can rule out the Nest as the culprit?
It's this product.
It adds a 5th wire (common) to a 4 wire setup. Extremely simple install (just Google it and an official video will come up). I had a lot of doubts on its effectiveness after reading issues on the nest community, but its working great for me so far.
I’m not actually a fan expert, I just play one on the internet.
Yes, I think using multiple fans I think just helps even the airflow in a space.
Most people use a fan speed controller like this.
It allows for infinite speed adjustment which is nice to balance noise and airflow.
(I Think) the impeller design of the first two fans helps them move air efficiently when ducting and filters are causing resistance. While the more typical propeller like design of the last fan has trouble dealing with that, and just causes turbulence and decreased efficiency.
Also the impeller design should be much quieter.
If that is a 115v AC fan, you will need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I
If you look at the last 2 images here, you can see my filter and setup here http://imgur.com/a/TUFMf
This is the exact fan/filter that I got http://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C-6-Inch-25-Feet-Ducting/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450463821&sr=8-5&keywords=carbon+filter+6%22
Also added a fan controller so it wasnt running at 100% all the time http://www.amazon.com/Hydrobuilder-HBVFSC-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I/ref=pd_sim_86_80?ie=UTF8&dpID=41idj0MShKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0FBPXDHCDMHF1K8SQ2AR
Those three seem like a pretty good start.
I'd also get an internal air circulation fan like this or this, and a fan speed controller for your main ventilation fan so it doesn't always have to be on 100% super loud full blast all day.
Are you growing in soil or hydro? Do you have your nutrients, soil or grow media, and pots or net buckets picked out already too?
I'm confused, he told you about a carbon filter and im not for sure what your reply post is referring to. Anyways, you need a carbon filter. If you burn a candle the neigbor will now smell the candle and the weed. The carbon filter will work prefect. You don't have to run it 24/7. Just when your smoking and maybe 30 minutes afterward. Here is the carbon filter and fan combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052ZPMAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334531&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. And here is a speed controller for the fan so you don't have to have the fan on full blast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BLOSG7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334616&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. This will take care of all of your problems. (Amazon links are for U.S.)
You can smoke in your house and the neighbor won't smell it. Good luck and I really hope you go the carbon filter route.
I think you are looking for something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbI0Bb3RN8WPX
Too much moisture in the AC evaporator coil box, it gets mildew in there.
​
If you turn the AC off and let the fan run fresh air for the last few minutes before you stop driving, it makes a big difference. This helps dry out the box that holds the evap coils.
​
You may need to start with a cleaning of the coils, and then make a habit out of letting it dry out to prevent it from getting funky again.
​
I had some of this stuff already, so I basically pulled the fan out and sprayed it into the box with the coils. Probably better to get toyota's refresher kit if you don't want to deal with that mess (it's a real PITA!). Alternately, you may find a way to attach a hose to the cleaner I linked and squirt it up the drain tube for the evaporator box.
Is it a window AC, are you talking about the exterior or interior coil?
You can use a no-rinse cleaner like this on the interior coil, they're not as effective but still work pretty well. Just don't overdo it and be sure to run the AC for at least an hour or two after. The idea behind "no rinse" cleaners is to run the AC and let the condensation cycle rinse it for you.
So that isn't an inline fan, that is known as a duct booster. It's just meant to help keep air moving through ducts. You'll need a real inline fan with speed controller. http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-Inline-Variable-Controller/dp/B019INGAO4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464883260&sr=8-3&keywords=4+inch+inline+fan
Here's a 4 inch fan with a built in variable adjustable knob from Amazon for less then $46 with free shipping.
Apollo Horticulture 4” Inch 190 CFM Inline Duct Fan with Built In Variable Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019INGAO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OYfUAb51BZ9S2
I assumed you had a good inline fan for exhaust, as they’re necessary to help keep humidity down in late flower (or you risk mold). You can get away with passive intake (no fan, just a hole), but you’ll need a good exhaust fan.
You can do it on Amazon for ~$80, and the $45 fan should last you many grows. I recommend this 4" inline fan since it comes with a speed controller, and something like this filter, since it's cheap but will actually get rid of smells for a couple grows.
I grow 2 plants per crop in a small grow tent, using this light. I also use some 4" ducting with an inline fan and a carbon filter which eliminates the smell during flowering. I just use regular potting soil, and Miracle Gro fertilizer.
In college I used to raw dog it in the closet with just a fluorescent grow light, but when the plants start to flower, they put out an unbelievable amount of smell. It's a nice smell, but here's literally no way to get by with it in an apartment.
I'd also recommend a good grow book, such as Marijuana Horticulture by Cervantes. It will really help diagnose things when something goes wrong.
With this setup I get a yield of over 2 oz cured bud per plant, so each crop is 4+ oz, and I can easily grow 3 crops per year. I get seeds from Herbie's; they ship reliably and discretely. The advantage of buying from a seed bank is that you can get some extremely powerful strains, medical strains, feminized seeds that are guaranteed female, autoflowers, etc.
If you need to do it more cheaply, you can build a r/spacebucket for $100-150 using common hardware store items. The drawback is that you can only grow 1 plant in a spacebucket, and the yield will only be 1-1.5 oz.
4 Inch Carbon Filter Air Scrubber Odor Control Air Purifier Activated charcoal Filter Carbon Scrubber with Pre-filter for Inline Fan IAV Hydroponics Greenhouse Indoor Gardening Grow Tent Ventilation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E50Syb7CTNSWX
This is the one I use. Works great
LIST POST:
|/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs
:--|:--|:--|:--|:--
|318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
|Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
|2 Free Fem Seeds|0| |
|pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
|HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1|
Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!
Here is what I have purchased so far.
12v 6a 72w power supply
ZVS Heater and Coil Combo
Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.
[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.
So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.
Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.
EDIT - MOSFET
Momentary Buttons
Mounting things for the momentary buttons
IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.
I don't know much about this. I like induction heating. Is this something to make one from?
ZVS Driver Module,5V-12V ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Power Supply Board+Heating Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CNM24YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xuQ2Db4SY3TA9
It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper
https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op
Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)
It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.
Edit: blasting:
I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:
Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ
Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/
Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB
Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE
Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.
First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.
Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).
Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!
To add onto this, you can get a silencer for it. So put it in a box with that sticking out the end and it should be pretty quiet. For even more sound reduction insulated ducting as well and if you're still having problems idk what to say.
Thanks for the reply! Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0J70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_utSCCbXTP49Z8
you can also add a duct muffler at the end of your exhaust to reduce noise:
https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Noise-Reducer-Silencer-Inline/dp/B01CTM0J70/ref=asc_df_B01CTM0J70/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293000701089&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10214804254630952280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000903&hvtargid=pla-307736636133&psc=1
I don't know if you have 4" or 6" ventilation but here is both.
4"
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Noise-Reducer-Silencer-Inline/dp/B01CTM0H1S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vivosun+silencer&qid=1558459462&s=gateway&sr=8-3
6"
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Noise-Reducer-Silencer-Inline/dp/B01CTM0J70?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_11740610011
At my company we have huge vent dampeners.. quick search brings up smaller ones for online vents.. should be simple to make in house as its basically just a tube lined with eggshell foam. Claims 50% noise reduction..
VIVOSUN 6 Inch Noise Reducer Silencer for Inline Duct Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0J70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GQkVDb27J17MQ
Here's one VIVOSUN 6 Inch Noise Reducer Silencer for Inline Duct Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0J70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MXYyyb87PWV9H
Have my grow in my bedroom and this muffler worked perfect.
I would also look at ac infinity fans. Quite possibly the quietest inline fan I've ever heard.
VIVOSUN 6 Inch Noise Reducer Silencer for Inline Duct Fan https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CTM0J70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x34QCb07X1P45
Most people use this with a large propane tank connected: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F274830-Indoor-Safe-Portable-x/dp/B01DD6C4TC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542126489&sr=8-3&keywords=mr+buddy+heater
It is a Mr. Heater propane heater. They are awesome and really work well. They have different models and ours is called a Big Buddy.
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F274830-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4TC
We got our first one during an ice storm in 2009. We were without power for a week and didn’t have wood for our fireplace. These little heaters were a life saver. We use them every winter now to supplement our central heat.
If you do use these, be sure to have a carbon monoxide detector nearby just in case.
You could also go with a more powerful heater to heat a larger area. There's an 18,000 BTU version of the Mr. Heater I linked before that is $130 and heats up to 450 sq ft.
There are also "Cabinet Heater" style units which are meant to house a 20 lb propane tank which might be worth looking into. These are not recommended for use in occupied indoor spaces like a bedroom. They're meant for "indoor construction" use where a house is not yet finished and there is lots of ventilation.
Mr. Heater MH18CH Radiant Cabinet LP Heater - $99 heats up to 450 sq ft
Dyna-Glo RA18LPDG 18,000 BTU Cabinet Heater - $130 heats up to 600 sq ft
I got this last fall, and used it all winter. It took my single car garage and got up to near 65 degrees while it was in the teens outside. Highly recommend also getting the long hose that goes out to a 20lb tank. Note: Keep your tank outside and run the hose through a door.window.hole.
Mr. Heater F274830 MH18BRV Big Buddy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DD6C4TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hose & regulator - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UC7966/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think that would require rewiring all the way back to the breaker. This image from the Amazon page shows they specifically only support two pole https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/sc/21b1e26f-1350-464a-882e-3e01d9532d30.__CR0,0,220,220_PT0_SX220_V1___.png .
https://www.amazon.com/Mysa-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboard-Heaters/dp/B075VBP42M
This one looks to be single pole...
https://casa.energy/products/caleo-sx/?wcmlc=USD
Quick clarification, please. Line voltage assumes 120v or 240v resistive electric heat, such as baseboard heaters. Would this be correct in your case?
There was a guy over at /r/homeautomation that used such a relay. He seemed happy with it.
Dumb question, but roll with me. What don't you like about the smart line voltage t-stats? Mysa, Stelpro, and King Electric?
https://www.amazon.com/Mysa-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboard-Heaters/dp/B075VBP42M/
https://www.amazon.com/Stelpro-ASMC402-Touchscreen-Thermostat-black/dp/B07KBRQM89
https://www.amazon.com/King-Electric-ATMOZ2-240-WIFI-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B01MT3XG7V
This sonoff TH16 might be a start.
And here is a smart thermostat for baseboard heaters.
As far as managing & graphing the operation, Homeassistant is free and pretty simple to use.
After much research, the only one I found which I could be certain would work with both baseboard heaters and a Smart system like Alexa is the Mysa Smart Thermostat. It's a pretty simple interface, and a bit pricey especially when needing one for each room, but they're well reviewed and the vendor is responsive. I ended up prioritizing where I really needed a smart thermostat vs where I just needed a new thermostat, so my 2 Mysa thermostats are out for delivery today.
The one thing I can't tell is if they need a hub of some sort for the Alexa integration, but since I have an Echo Plus and am adding SmartThings I'll be covered for that. If you only have an Echo Dot and a hub is required, you'll need to add something like SmartThings or Wink.
This what I used. It now works with SmartThings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VBP42M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xRd1dOz6XPb3G
VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c-jDCbWSB7ZQS
This is what I have now, but I don't really expect the carbon filter to last more than a year. For now though, it works great. No smell at all.
Awesome. I'm also in Canada so here are a few Amazon links for ya:
Tent (or something similar) A lot of people suggest staying away from Vivosun but as far as tents go, it's pretty much all the same for the lower price range.
Exhaust + Carbon filter (or similar, and you will need a few feet at least of flexible ducting to hook it all up, should be cheap at a hardware store or on Amazon as well)
2 Clip-on Fans
​
and you're still left with a couple hundred bucks for AC if needed
Ahh got it. It's very important the smells don't come out. That's the main reason I'm running such a long duct out to the window. Here's a link to the fan/filter combo I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also bought a speed controller because the lowest speed setting on the fan out of the box is pretty loud. Do you think I need the fan on full blast? Tent is 72sf.
-i use a BreatheRight by Allen for my allergies. It’s expensive ($600-ish) but if you get the charcoal filter it’s crazy good. Will remove scented candle smells and Bacon smells as well as the very marijuana smoke that I smoke inside my own apartment.
I haven’t received any complaints. It’s been 2 years.
The next thing would be to go one step higher and purpose an in-line fan filter and attach a huge 24” charcoal filter.
This option is actually WAYYYY more effective, but requires just a little bit of knowing how to put stuff together, and it’s slightly loud, but god damn, it totally cleans all smells and allergies.
This first link is for an in-line fan:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FPFVZTZ?pf_rd_p=731c2082-c3b6-4ec5-ba3b-337a0516607d&aaxitk=i0llSkJCSVXgMhex-F1n.Q&hsa_cr_id=3570293760101
Second link for the filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008NYF8S4/ref=psdcmw_5446824011_t1_B07FPFVZTZ
Third link is for the Allen Breathe Right:
https://www.amazon.com/Alen-Customizable-Purifier-HEPA-Pure-Allergies/dp/B00APO426E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=allen+breath&qid=1574290745&sr=8-3
The Allen is more aesthetically pleasing and is a complete unit that requires zero installation. Simply plug and play. This model is for 1100sqft. If you get this, get the charcoal filter. They have lots of filters.
The in-line fan and filter option will be like 10x more powerful and way more affordable than the Allen, but unpleasant to look at and is louder.
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S6, Quiet 6” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPFVZTZ/ref=emc_b_5_i
If you decide not to go that route, a padded vent tube will greatly cut down on the built in fan noise:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075J7ZYT8
I'm told this one works well, but I don't have one myself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPFVZTZ
It's 175% more powerful than the one you linked
I bought a 6" inline fan off of Amazon. Little pricey but is definitely working great atm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FPFVZTZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
It looks cramped and uncomfortable, but has a lot of potential, it just needs to be opened up. A descent cheap ikea sofa bed or turning the bed into a couch while entertaining will free up so much space in that small room. You would be able to add an extra chair and actually have room to have 4 or more people over comfortably. Those white shelves on the floor also unnecessarily take up space. Look at r/tinyhomes, they have a lot of nice space saving ideas.
Also, that window insulation looks really bad, try some other more discrete options.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Interior-Transparent-Weather-1-5-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFF