(Part 3) Best oils & fluids according to redditors
We found 2,243 Reddit comments discussing the best oils & fluids. We ranked the 753 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC
I use a similar product after cleaning a customers battery up with some baking soda and water, works great but this guy used way too much.
Oh yeh then why do they make this ?/s
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-80204-Water-Wetter/dp/B000CPI5ZK
How about some stuff other than bling like a Group N pitch rod: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1477
Or perhaps some nice Sankei 555 ball joints: http://www.42autosports.com/Sankei-555-Front-Ball-Joints--Subaru_p_258.html
A set of fender braces: http://www.paranoidfabrications.com/shop/2008-super-sweet-cowl-stays-aka-fender-braces/
Crazy idea here but an extended timing belt guide: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/tom-191263-tomei-timing-belt-guide?ymm=2003-subaru-impreza-wrx-2-0
Some hella sweet DOT4 brake fluid: http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629716&sr=8-1&keywords=ate+type+200+brake+fluid
Waterless coolant: http://www.amazon.com/Evans-Cooling-Systems-EC53001-Performance/dp/B00TPVI2TQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449629782&sr=8-1&keywords=Waterless+coolant
I can go on. I guess the point I'm making is a person could buy a car girl or guy something for under 60 dollars that could make their vehicle better. Not hating on the coasters or tie or cups, different people like different things. I'd just rather spend my money on gifts to my close car friends that will make their driving experiences and cars better than give them a Subaru pint glass.
Edit: words
Bring your own oil and filter, get basic change. 5qt mobil 1 is like
$28$23 on Amazon.I'm guessing it's this stuff.
And no, it's not going to improve your gas mileage. It might help clean carbon deposits out of your fuel system and help your car run slightly more efficiently, but any MPG gains will be negligible. You're not going to go from 18 MPG to 25 MPG just by putting some of this in your tank.
I run a lower temp T stat and I'm in soflo. It takes longer to warm up but it takes some nice throttle pounding to go over 210. Water Wetter also helps clear out air bubbles and heat spots causing the engine to run hotter.
Not sure I can tell exactly where your leak is from the photos, but I would recommend a weld if you have access or JB Weld (an easy epoxy) if you don't. The JB Weld might be the easiest option anyway. I have used on boats and my automotive engines many times.
J-B Weld 8272 MarineWeld Marine Epoxy - 2 oz
http://amzn.com/B000KKPFFA
I used this when I froze a lock, worked for me. http://www.amazon.com/Victor-V500-Lock-De-Icer-Aerosol5/dp/B000AMKU58
Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.
For shooting:
Cleaning:
Everything else:
I use Castrol EDGE 0W40 from Amazon. It’s BMW LL-01 certified, however I’m not sure if that’s the correct weight for your car.
Castrol 03101 EDGE 0W-40 A3/B4 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 quart, 1 pack @ ~ $26
Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.
Use this and drive the car hard on the way to inspection.
I can't say for sure if it will work for you, But this stuff will make a car with a dead cat pass in my state.
You could probably spin that and have people believe it.
Exhibit A
Like this?
Get Loctite, put a little on the screw and screw it back in.
This is medium strength, it should be strong enough, but they do have heavy duty if you want to go all out. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=loctite&qid=1554408114&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater (if you ever need to buy one), but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU
Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On yours, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO
Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.
My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.
That damage occurred while trying to unscrew the nozzle from the heater block- aluminum + steel + heat is a bad combo. Auto mechanics have known about this since they first started seeing aluminum engine blocks. Anti-seize compound is used on spark plugs to prevent this same sort of problem.
The solution (?)
Will try this stuff when I replace the heater block. It's supposed to be good up to 870C.
What year and how many miles? For brake pads I use Hawk HPS and use ATE BLUE brake fluid:
For the clutch I've got the Science of Speed sport 400 (capable of 400ft/lbs torque) and an 11 lb Comp Clutch flywheel. If you're not making a ton of power the SoS comp 300 would be ideal.
You'll also want to replace your thrust and throwout bearings and have your stock flywheel resurfaced if you are leaving it stock. I've got continental tires front and back (on stock style 1 AP2 wheels).
I love the shit out of them. They grip well and are outstanding in the wet. The pads don't make any noise and the clutch is widely considered to be the most "oem quality" one on the market. You should definitely flush your tranny and diff while you're doing all of this. Honda MT gear oil in the gear box and Amsoil SevereGear 75w110 is my shit. The stuff I posted is marginally more expensive over the ~10%-15% cheaper stuff on eBay so just spend the money and keep it nice. It's worth it in the end.
This should fix that issue in most knobs:
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
You have to take the plastic covering off and spray it inside the knob thing on the circuit board. Should look like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512sGRdBjgL.jpg. If it's covered there is usually a hole for spraying into.
Specifically, marine grade epoxy.
Every spring the hardware stores and gas stations sell lock de-icer for a quarter. I see them for $1.50 most of the time.
The flashlight trick is cool, but keeping one of those de-icers in your pocket is a good winter EDC. The bigger problem is having your door be frozen shut and pulling your door handle clean off. I used to keep a full size de-icer can at my desk to avoid that.
My Haves:
Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.
Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips
Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.
You can get this stuff for about $5 a quart. I'd say that's hard to beat. It meets LL-01 standards.
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-03101-0W-40-Synthetic-Motor/dp/B00JGQLZSU
I've also never had problems with Mobil 1 0W-40, but apparently it doesn't meet LL-01 anymore. But last I checked, the two are almost exactly the same price.
http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-120764-Synthetic-Motor-5W-30/dp/B00I4E91GI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452996179&sr=8-1&keywords=mobil1+synthetic+5w30+5+quart
About $30.
LL 01 is the specification
Castrol EDGE Advanced Full Synthetic "European car formula" is a good one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGQLZSU
The viscosity could differ based on your local climate.
It would help if you could identify the specific joints that are the noisiest. It's likely a combination of your rear shock, your swingarm's connection to the frame, and the subframe joints. Sometimes you can't do much with older bikes short of replacing the parts, but cleaning and greasing it should help you.
WD40 is simply a water displacement. It doesn't grease anything, it just helps remove the water, and it's especially helpful if youre trying to unscrew or pull out something and it's stuck, as it will temporarily lubricate what you spray it on.
If you want to get rid of squeaks in the joints, either get some spray lubricant(like a silicone based one, something like this) or you can tear the bike down and apply grease(just get a tub of it and it'll last you years, something like this) to a lot of the moving parts. The rear shock is something you definitely don't wanna be taking apart unless you know what you're doing, so try just putting grease on the outsides of the joints or getting spray lubricant and spraying it in the joints.
I recommend the grease method, as the silicone spray often doesn't do a long term job and it isn't nearly as water proofing. Try to find some videos of how to take apart dirt bikes, and apply those concepts to your bike. Every bike is different, but if you watch some klx 125 teardown videos, you'll catch on. Pretty much you can take off everything except the rear shock/swingarm and still be able to put it back on easily.
[That stuff just so happens to be on sale (-$3) at Amazon right now for $11.99 shipped w Prime. FYI.](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ZsvvDbQ3DB4W9 via @amazon)
Do you have an air pump?
Also, SeaFoam is great for what it is (a detergent, for cleaning junk out of the fuel system) but you might want to try something like this:
link
Here..http://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462847526&sr=1-1&keywords=auto+window+adhesive…. ya go
You need to get all of the old off first. And wipe it down with solvent[KEEP IT OFF THE PAINT!!!!!] Perhaps tape the area off first
This is not the technically correct fix, but I've used J-B Weld on my 1993 fiberglass boat that had similar damage. It's not a pretty fix, though it would look better on your grey boat than my white one. It's a marine epoxy that I mixed up and "patched" the area. If it's on the bottom of the boat no one is going to see it anyways. It's 20 years old - it's not worth doing the proper repair. I'm on my second season and it looks the same as the day I did the patch.
My boat came with the damage and the previous owner drove it without it spreading as /u/LikesGladiatorMovies suggested. I wouldn't guaranty yours will hold up the same but that is my experience.
If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.
Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..
Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.
Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.
I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).
I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.
Would contact cleaner work in this instance?
https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY
I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GF5GVX3E1NXA9BRC3CRC
It's been on my car for over a week and still tight :). Same Grimmspeed kit too.
I was worried about it slipping but so far so good, not a single movement.
Sweet! Ordered this and comments say it should solve the problem.
I use Castrol 0W-40 in my BMWs. Don't be alarmed by 0W versus 5W. SAE weights are kind of silly. For example BMW's spec basically generates oils in 0W or 5W and 30 or 40 grades even those guys the owner's manual says 5W-30 only. VW spec is probably similar. Basically buy the spec not the SAE grade.
Castrol 03101 EDGE 0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGQLZSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WfXfzbMRKFYXA
Is this the VW spec your car needs?
Meets BMW LL-01, Mercedes Benz 229.5 and 229.3, Porsche A40, VW 505.00 and 502.00, Ford WSS-M2C937-A, PSA B71 2296
You can also get it in the 5 quart size which is generally less expensive. Currently ~$4.58/qt. at Amazon.
First of all, take the break in period seriously. For the first 1000 miles, Subaru says to try to avoid running it above 3000 rpms. So basically, don't go too fast when you're in higher gears.
Hold off on mods for a little while until you really get a feel for the car and how it drives. Get a baseline and then look into mods if that's your thing. They are badass cars stock from the dealer.
Change the oil frequently, around every 3,500 miles or so, and use good oil. Rotella t6 seems to be the popular and economical choice.
Check your oil level weekly. Subarus have a tendency to burn oil, even when they're new. Subaru is involved in a class action lawsuit over the matter now. Either way, its not unusual to have to add a half quart every now and then.
Keep up on maintenance. Subarus are just as reliable as Hondas and Toyotas, but they tend to be more finicky about maintenance. Try to follow the book. Brake fluid and coolant should definitely be changed every 30,000 miles. I reccommend OEM coolant and ATE brake fluid. Some of the other stuff isn't as necessary (spark plugs every 30k miles is kind of overkill, IMO) but use good judgement and don't be afraid to research.
WD-40 is not really made for anything but loosening stuck things, once it evaporates it no longer lubricates very well.
Try a lock deicer if its is for sure frozen or use a dry graphite spray in the lock after the WD-40 to keep it nice and free.
WD-40 loosens really well but isn't a lasting effect. Spray graphite doesn't loosen well but lasts. They are a perfect compliment to each other.
I don’t think I’ve seen one that’s blue but I’m smart enough to know I haven’t seen everything lol.
It’s not a bad thing, usually they’re red
I wouldn’t worry about it.
I’m not going to say that there aren’t any good, trustworthy mechanics, but I will say I spent a year in automotive school to learn it myself.
Why pay someone to fuck my shit up for me? I can do that myself for free was my reasoning lol.
I never wonder anything now about repairs that I have done and, surprisingly, I’ve fucked my shit up very little, though, lessons were learned along the way. 😌
They make an actual product for this.
https://www.amazon.com/Victor-Lock-Icer-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000AMKU58
Youtube will help you install and remove. Basically like /u/th7957 says you get a wire between the window frame and glass and cut the seal to get the glass out. Then you have the fun endeavor of cleaning the old gasket/sealant out.
Check out part suppliers that specialize in that vehicle for that window seal if it is available. It is more common to use window adhesive but I personally would rather use the correct gasket if it is an option. My guess is you will end up using the adhesive though.
JB MarineWeld or construction adhesive.
Use a screw driver to pry off the cap. Check youtube to see what I mean.
Of course, you don't need to remove any of this to grease them, you can use any aerosol lubricant that is able to use volatiles as a carrier to deposit the lube into the joint, then evaporates leaving the lube in place.
Silicon spray is perfect for door hinges. Won't leave any visible nastiness either.
https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/silicone-lubricant/
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBM5S2
I just did/am doing my headliner (need to put it back in) this week and I used Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive. It's item #27828, bright orange can with a blue top. Seems to work great! I used just under 2 cans for my main headliner board. You should get some high quality headliner foam. Usually local upholstery places will have it in sheets. Just avoid any kind of heavy and/or non foam backed material (if you want it to last and look nice) and you should be fine. Also, remember to get a star bit for the rear seat belts. You can get one at Autozone.. I think it was 45 but I can't remember exactly off the top of my head.
Here's the adhesive. You can get it at any car store:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-Aerosol/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417054160&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+27828
EDIT:
I've made an album with my current headliner progress, just to give you an idea.
http://imgur.com/a/ZdCNU
As you can see in the pictures, the spray is pretty heavy duty. Hope this helps.
Yeah, all i did was some super quick google-fu like i would assume most people would when they are doing research.
If anything, at least he has a handful more options to look at right?
if i had the money i would go with the G-four because at first glance, it seems to play right up there with the Torque. Personally im going to stick to ATE for now and the occasional track day since i can get it near cost
Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize
Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance
Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.
If he's electronically inclined I suggest checking out this link
http://rellinger.blogspot.com/2012/12/replacing-middle-button-on-logitech.html
If not willing to solder and replace the switch, get one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420242985&sr=8-1&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner
And spray liberally so that it can seep in and do the job and hope for the best.
I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.
Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can
For some cars isn't a bit of liquid gasket required to replace a valve cover gasket in corners where the gasket might not seal as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0
For cleaning use Mineral Spirits. If the letters have a thick coating of ink use a small brass brush with mineral spirits. (odorless mineral spirits are available at every hardware store. It is the safer modern equivalent to Varisol.)
If I am correct and the Smith Corona has a sealed bottom. You want to take the bottom plate off to clean it. Using a dropper or Q-tips put little amounts on all the moving parts and then move them letting excess mineral spirits drip out the bottom. Repeat until the part is clean and moves freely. Wipe gunk off from all the none moving parts.
Traditionally only certain parts of the typewriter are lubricated with 10w machine oil. (Sewing machine oil.) Everyone including me use too much the first time. But even if you use the proper amount dust still sticks to it.
Use Liquid Wrench Teflon spray to lubricate all the moving parts. (It is cheaper to get it from an auto parts store or Wal-Mart.) It works as well as 10w oil and because it is dry dust doesn't stick to it. Spray everywhere, quickly wipe it off anywhere you don't want a coating of white dust.
I recommend the Liquid Wrench because it worked best of all the ones I tried. Do not use the Dupont Teflon spray because its "Patented Bonding," agent means it is much harder to clean from anywhere you don't want it.
For starter that depends on the leak. If you can service or change out the ring/washer this might not big a problem. Many times we can get lucky pulling the stuff apart and cleaning the surfaces and lubing the o-ring.
That's if you can separate the pieces being held together. It really just depends on how big of a can of worms this is.
Headliner adhesive.
Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can, 16.75 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JXkSDbG53H4B4
WD-40 is not meant to be used as a general lubricant. It strips most grease off of whatever it is sprayed on. I would use something like silicone spray or electronics grease to stop the squeaking.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant
Super Lube(R) Multi-Purpose Grease
Since people are going to tell me I'm an idiot and that WD-40 is too a lubricant here is their own words on it.
WD-40® Myths, Legends & Fun Facts
Thanks for posting this. I wish there were more posts like this!
3M makes the best. Clean all the crap off the body and the window before putting new glue on it. Let the glue setup a little before installing the window or it will be a slippery mess.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
My water wetter is wetter!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CPI5ZK
Yep! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053ZNMDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524532260&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=loctite+stick
I'm thinking about getting one to eliminate the fact that the liquid stuff just kind of gets everywhere.
This is only $5 and meant for sil tents. Why not just use it?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009RP8HO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you tell me what state you're in? I'm a MN girl, born and raised and would like to give you accurate advice ;-)
Brace yourself! [There's many options] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HACYNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415070970&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40) and you're going to need one... But I can tell you, more expensive is not always better.
[We live where there are no trees] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AMKU58/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1415071205&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40) so this comes in handy.
[And lastly, we have pets] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002IJXDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415071405&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40) so pet safe stuff is important to me!!!
Welcome to winter!!!
Edit: entry
-Catalytic converters will start throwing codes eventually. Had my sensors spaced out (put a spacer between the sensor and spot they screw in on in the catalytic converter) so it wouldn't throw the codes anymore. I think the OEM converters are roughly 900 each.
-Here is a discussion on the timing chain for the 4.2L V8 S5. It does not seem to be the same issue as the earlier 4.2L V8's in the S4 and RS4's.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/778497-Timing-Chain-service-at-100k-miles
-Carbon will be an issue, just no good rule of thumb on how long to wait before getting it delt with. If you start seeing miss fire codes probably time to get it checked. My local non-audi shop charged me 800 for the time to clean it with break cleaner and a brush. They charge 86 an hour. You'll also get charged for new gaskets to put the intake manifold back on. However I was getting miss fire codes after getting mine cleaned so I ran a bottle of this through my gas tank and never saw the issue again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DDVU6EI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-I've not had an issue with mounts yet not sure if/when I will. My car is currently at 111k miles and I bought it at 66k miles and I'm at least the 3rd owner. If you decide to replace them you can get more solid motor mounts, here is one company that sells them but there are several others out there that should sell them as well.
https://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/index.php
-List of things I've had to get fixed that I can remember.
-headlights (If I recall it was about 250 for both new ones together)
-Carbon cleaning
-Stereo system went bad, had to go to dealership to fix it, 1400 for oem replacement, diagnosing and time to install ended up costing me 2k
-Replaced oil separator OEM roughly 350 hopefully cuts down on carbon build up. Considered an oil catch can just never pulled the trigger to do it. Gotta remember to empty those if you get one.
-Currently dealing with randomly leaking AC system. Shop put dye in the AC system when they refilled it twice now, still can't find where it's leaking out with the black light.
-Hood strut went bad, replaced it.
Basically all general maintenance stuff outside the audio system. If you have any other questions let me know.
If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).
The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.
But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.
Prices on amazon go up and down, I've set up alerts and buy when I'm close to an oil change. Here is an example.
It might be contact cleaner. I got this one from amazon to use on my camera's jog wheel since it was unresponsive at random times. If there's a Fry's or Micro Center nearby, I'm pretty sure they carry some in store
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0
Here ya go, Toyotas use this as a oil pan gasket, not in addition to a real gasket just this stuff, I’ve used it plenty of times to hold various gaskets in place and never had a comeback due to a leak.
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0
You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.
CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P
If they can't or won't it's exceedingly easy to do. Get this, thin it with mineral spirits to the consistency of thick tomato sauce, and apply.
I’ve used this in the past with my previous car with happy results. ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4 Brake Fluid - 1 Liter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VXRPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_74AwDb09YAZ9D
Everyone's had this happen to them at least once, haha.
Fun fact though, if you happen to have it around, silicon spray like this will disperse the bubbles very quickly and ease cleanup.
Pep Boys, Advance, and AutoZone all match WalMart prices, at least in my area.
$8 per quart! Kind of baffled that oil costs that much for commercial accounts! Why even have one? Just order Mobil1 on amazon and upgrade to prime -- instant profit margin boost.
Most larger shops in my area have the most common grades of oil in 55-gallon drums or even IBC totes. The large NTB location near me even has a 55-gallon drum of gear oil.
Thank you for the quick reply! I believe that the leak is actually coming from above that area, and running down. The oil pan is actually sealed with http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0, which is not a true gasket.
On a similar note, probably also not the technically correct repair, But 4 years ago I repaired several 1 inch sized dings through the gel coat on my keel with JB WaterWeld. Before applying I cleaned it the area well with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and then dried it with a hair dryer. The boat is white so it was a good match, and with just a little sanding it looked pretty darn good. Four years later those repairs are still holding strong. Good luck with your repairs OP. It should be an easy fix, just be sure to take care of right away before it gets worse.
Edit: Marine Weld might be a better match for you since it will dry a dark grey like your hull. I prefer to work with the putty that I linked above because it is easier to shape. But I bet the marine weld would do a good job for you too.
I use the CRC battery terminal protector and it works well.
Does the car start normally and how long have you had it? Sometimes corrosion accumulation (the green powdery stuff) can be a sign of failing battery.
Something like this this?
Is it safe to use silicone grease on stabs?
Some webs say it is dielectric, some people say it is not certified.... I have seen amazon reviews about the grease working as stabilizer lube but still want to ask here because it is my first build and dont want to mess it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Silicone-Grease-Tube/dp/B00W6Q3B1G
​
This is the grease Im about to buy.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522723261&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+loctite+stick
Worth every penny. The liquid is a pain imo. The stick is much easier to dispense on screw threads.
https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Automotive-Dielectric-Silicone-Waterproof/dp/B016E5E59G/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=silicone+lubricant+for+gaskets&qid=1569326025&s=gateway&sr=8-15
Silicone grease over glue imo. Always use it with any o-ring before an install. Pull the o-ring out, coat it with a good layer (I typically wear neoprene gloves, get some on my finger and rub it all around), then place back in, make sure you don't twist the o-ring, and clean up around where there's excess grease. Then once installed check for any additional grease and clean it up.
My binding screws came with Blue Loctite pre-applied. It was the paste version, not the liquid. You can buy Loctite paste that comes in something like a gluestick type package that won't get everywhere. Just rub the threads of the screw on it.
Medium Strength (Blue) Loctite is 100% safe for the inserts and the paste keeps it off the Binding disk. Remember the motto: "A little dab will do ya." Less is more with loctite.
Toyota makes the nicest oil sealant I've seen they use it around the valve covers on the v-6's and that stuff is both easy to work with and very durable.
Here's the part number: # 00295-00103 - Genuine Toyota Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0
I'll use windshield caulking https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW
That will work, but I prefer aerosol sprays for my hockey gear. It's all chemically identical. Just spray it on and wipe it down with a rag.
Permatex 80070 Silicone Spray Lubricant, 10.25 oz. net Aerosol Can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBM5S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Fmb7wbVNP1F5A
Best seam sealer:
https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Silicone-Sealant-Silnylon/dp/B0009RP8HO
​
I'd question the need for a tent 'waterproofing spray'. Do you really need it? Is the tent not waterproof on it's own? It should be. If the tent is not waterproof - you should consider getting a new tent. A spray will be a poor bandaid on a major problem.
I have done probably a dozen of these. When disassembling, I have always found them sealed with silicone. I have also never had an issue with one leaking. I believe this is the stuff recommended in the service manual. If you look on the opposite end of that, I believe there is a small channel meant to be filled with the sealant.
Of course, if that kit did happen to have a gasket for that location in it, I would use it.
Gear Aid has some seam sealant products. Their silicone based sealant is for ultralight tents made with silnylon fabric. If your tent isn't made with silnylon, then your tent fabric has a urethane coating that should be seam sealed with their urethane based sealant.
Some people with silnylon tents prefer to make their own by mixing mineral spirits and GE Silicone II. That's partially because they want some extra to paint stripes on their tent floor so they don't slide around as much.
What kind of gas are you running? What brand?
In turbo engines running cheap low grade gas can cause carbon buildup. You should be buying gas from top tier stations.
Run this through your truck a couple of times, should help.
BG 44K Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDVU6EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z4EKybBVCRTRY
I used to work in boats and there are only a few products that really work. They vary in price and are for different applications.
For smaller patches JB Weld has a two part marine adhesive that isn't too expensive (make sure to follow directions)
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8272-MarineWeld-Marine/dp/B000KKPFFA/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1458915714&sr=8-41&keywords=two+part+marine+epoxy
3M has a tape that i've used before and works well if you can dry/clean the surface before applying.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03625-Wrap-Repair-Silicone/dp/B00G25GOCA/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51uPJZ9CL0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR114%2C160_&refRID=1G59XP3NQHA92MR38NTY
My local window guy out here looked at your picture and suggested that this was a bad idea. His reasoning was that the frame that you want to attach it to is pretty thin. He is worried that if you apply too much force, you'd pull the frame away from the glass, ruining the seal. Then the glass would be loose, and it could leak in a storm. Not to mention condensation between the panes.
If the reason you want to do this is because it takes too much effort to open the window, I suggest that you vacuum all the dirt and debris out of the window track, then use some spray lubricant to make it easier to operate:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80070-Silicone-Lubricant-Aerosol/dp/B000HBM5S2
A good glass shop?
OK, these windows are a royal PITA. You have to cut off the old rubber, remove the glass (carefully!) and clean the glass spotlessly clean, clean the opening (again, spotless) as well. You then need the proper sealant (possibly urethane?)
And you'd need the rubber weatherstripping. It has to be cut to size, and spliced (fun... basically using superglue).
I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it, basically a piece of cord to install the glass, and some sweat and work.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500130706&sr=8-3&keywords=loctite+blue
If you regularly use brand name fuel like Chevron or Exxon, you can skip the injector cleaning well past 30k miles. If you regularly use the absolute cheapest gas you can find, you may way to use BG 44K on occasion. Probably works 90% as well as the dealer service at 15% the cost. https://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI
The cost of the equipment used for this job is expensive...that's why the shop is expensive (you're basically paying for their equipment or it's been already paid off. Since you don't have $$, I'll recommend 2 steps (It'll make you be a parts-swapper, but cheaper than a full diagnosis). Most of the time, the common bad parts are the gas cap (I doubt it) or the evap purge valve: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-503-Evaporative-Emissions-Canister/dp/B002E39YBW/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Infiniti%7C68&Model=G35%7C885&Year=2007%7C2007&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Just replace the purge valve (follow a diy on youtube), buy a Foxwell OBD2 scanner (at least $50), clear the code, and you should be good to go. The purge valve is often the issue....otherwise diagnosis is needed.
​
Edit: to pass the BS emissions test, just use CRC Emissions: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8#customerReviews read and follow directions.
Upholstery Adhesive works well but is rather expensive. You'll need 2 cans. Use the Permatex brand one. The 3M one didnt work well for me in some parts
A properly functioning cooling system would keep things from boiling over during midsummer in Death Valley.
Hill climbs are, of course, more taxing on an engine, but the days of inadequate cooling went out the window with the emissions regulations, because NOx is strongly affected by combustion temperature. So manufacturers were forced to used larger radiators that could handle the edge cases. The takeaway is that anything with a catalytic converter on it (~1976 and newer) should be able to handle any real driving situation you'd ever encounter.
The thermostat is simple and cheap, the radiator not quite as much, but a simple rod job shouldn't cost that much. If the radiator also has pinholes from age, that's when you start thinking about just replacing it, and bumping the number of cores. (Going from a 2-core to a 3-core, etc)
That being said, I am certain that an ambulance would already have an uprated system by the nature of what it is required to do.
If you want to put off dealing with overheating until after the winter, a simple coolant additive like water wetter will buy you better heat transfer between the engine/coolant/radiator/heater core. When I had my Westy, it was pretty much a mandatory-use item, but it will help any vehicle that has a borderline thermal issue.
Speaking of heater cores, car heat is provided by a simple coolant loop to a small radiator inside the passenger compartment. Cranking heat full blast (while not a lot of fun), adds quite a bit of extra cooling to the engine, and is a good way to buy a few more miles before needing to stop if you're on a long uphill.
Last bit, thanks for telling us about your build, and I agree, stealth is the way to go. The built-in appliances and fridge were nice, but I had noticeably more trouble parking in my obviously-a-camper-van than my friends who used more subtle forms of vehicle.
(with the exception of the early wasserboxers than VW Westys used, whose cooling setup was a shitshow across the board. They were VW's first go at watercooling, and, well... VW had a lot to learn.)
I suggest you get these. I had them on a keychain only for the winter months for each vehicle.
https://m.autozone.com/deicer-and-starting-fluid/de-icer/victor-lock-de-icer/128353_0_0
Victor Lock De-Icer Lubricant Aerosol .62 FL OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AMKU58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_skxZDbHGA990K
I use a seal cutter. Fairly simple to use, just use a rubber dead blow to wedge it in and then hit the side to push it around the block.
The thing to watch out for is there is a baffle installed between the oil pan and the bottom of the block, all of which is sealed with RTV (could explain why you’re seeing so much of it). Once you get it separated, the pan/baffle like to get caught up on the oil pick up tube so be carful when pulling it down.
As for the stud and nut combo rather than a bolt, that’s factory, and I’m sure there is suppose to be 2 studs.
When putting it back together, the best RTV to use would be Toyota F.I.P.G..
> Dielectric Grease
would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Dielectric-Grease-Silicone-Waterproof-Marine/dp/B016E5E59G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502921692&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Dielectric+Grease&psc=1
look at my other post I'm more active on that : https://www.reddit.com/r/BitcoinMining/comments/6r8uyy/planning_bitcoin_mining_operatin_80_s9s_and_10/
This one? https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Wrench-L512-Lubricant-CERFLON/dp/B000CPJLE4
Don’t know if it’s in the right place, but I have a ‘03 ce Jetta, and I removed the headliner last summer because is was beginning to sag. This summer I want to wrap it up.
I’m looking for a nice fabric (suede like) that’s will not fade in a year.
Planning on using this glue
Also, my interior is beige, don’t know is I’m going to the a-b-c pillar and put them black. Kinda look like this minus the seats
Or I stay with all beige anyway the dash board is black.
I'd try some electrical contact cleaner before I tried anything else.
you will be surprised at just how much temperatures go down with a simple coolant flush. i reached 248°F on a 90°F day, it scared me. i flushed the coolant and the next day the ambient temp was 105°F on the same trip, my coolant didn't reach 190°F.
to take it a step further mix ONLY "water wetter" and water. :)
Yup found it on amazon.ca
Silicone grease from amazon.ca
Usually a silicone dielectric grease, but I like the spray stuff like this: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC better.
No, you won’t need new cats. I had the same problem with my ‘89 and my dad and I found this wonderful product that is literally called- Pass Emissions Test. You just pour the stuff into the tank when it’s half empty, use the rest of the tank, fill it back up, and then you should pass with flying colors!
Pass Emissions
I've got a 2001 Civic and I replaced it myself. It was honestly really, really easy. Just took a little elbow grease and a little research on youtube/google. It cost me about 50 bucks in total. I used this video as a guide and this video is a little more recent (I haven't watched through it fully)
You wanna buy foam-backed fabric from jo-anns or any store similar to it, a metal brush, some razor blades, and some adhesive spray like this one.
What kind of car do you drive? I'm betting you could look up your car on youtube along with the correct key words to find out more info. Since you have an older car, it's probably gonna be easier to service yourself than if it were a new car.
I've been using a bearpawwd 8x10 for a couple seasons and I am extremely satisfied. Do not use 550 cord for a tarp. It stretches way too much. Silnylon is already very stretchy and your tarp will sag a lot. Use a very low stretch poly line to secure your tarp. My preference is lawson glowire. I use bowline knots, taut line hitches and occasionally clove hitches. Make sure to seal the non perimeter tieouts as these have a tendency to leak when stretched.
Finally and most importantly is practice. My first couple pitches were rubbish. But, when you get the hang of it and start getting creative you can do just about anything with a tarp.
http://i.imgur.com/yIyK3N1.jpg
http://www.bearpawwd.com/tarps/flat_tarps.php
http://lawsonequipment.com/Cordage/Reflective-Glowire-p1024.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG-xZFUVR-M
https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-SilNet-Silicone-Sealer/dp/B0009RP8HO/
I think it's a great idea to make your first pack with cheap ($$) stuff, and then spend money on later packs, once you've gained some knowledge, techniques, and preferences on what you like in a pack.
So, to address the other comments, presumably - I say, because I haven't tried it - you could use some fray-stop on your seams to help them hold. Maybe silicon seam sealer?
For the water, you could try and apply water resistance with a Wash in product, a spray, or some people do wash and spray after. If washing, I'd do it before constructing, spray could happen after, but I'm hypothesizing, as I haven't used either.
Probably should still use a trash compactor liner but it would help keeping the water from weighing your pack down.
JB Weld is pretty much the epoxy to go with for nearly everything, they have a marine version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKPFFA
Is it legal to dump those bottles of "guaranteed to pass" additives into gas tanks before a smog test?
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05063-Guaranteed-Emissions-Formula/dp/B000CIPUR8
I'm not saying there should be no standards. But the US automotive standards are extremely restrictive when compared to international standards. The US standards are even necessarily "better", just "different".
Here's a rundown on the situation:
http://jalopnik.com/a-simple-explanation-why-america-doesnt-get-european-h-1493377285
It's probably corrosion or deposits built up on the PCB from the liquid damage causing inconsistent contact.
You can try blasting it with contact cleaner - like https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY
Just blast it in there, probably won't have to take it apart if the slim nozzle will reach. But make sure to hit all affected areas.
Note though that it might be corroded so badly that no amount of cleaning will help, but fingers crossed.
I use this for fluid but mine was the "super blue" before they banned the blue color.
http://www.amazon.com/ATE-706202-Original-Brake-Fluid/dp/B003VXRPL0
This.
As a Toyota tech we had to do this all the time.
This shit is magic. Highly recommended for your new gasket material: Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cA3aBbQ7M9372
I 've got Silverhook SGPGT90 3676 for 6,5 €. Reviews are great as well as the price, didn't have time to apply though. It for my MFG Crosswind pedals, one spring is squeaky.
You could try Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant. I dont have any experience with it. But reading some Amazon reviews, it sounds like it would work.
lube is lube,
this here is dielectric silicone grease, used for boilers and plumbing, safe for, rubber, copper, brass, plastic. is not electrically conductive. dies not dry out. this tube here can do you for more than 100 keyboards
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00W6Q3B1G
Where the metal stabiliser wire is housed in the plastic housing - I used a syringe - I used this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00W6Q3B1G?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
I buy the euro blend castrol for my gti, the 0W-40 5qt jug, and it's only like $25 on amazon!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JGQLZSU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488127122&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=castrol+0w-40
This is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has a bonus feature - the lid is perfect for standing a pen barrel vertically while eye droppering your ink into it :)
This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.
>minimum specs some fluids exceed these standards by quite a bit
Very true. The "DOT 4" fluid I bought recently actually exceeds even the DOT 5.1 standard by a good margin
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VXRPL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I use for my 2009
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGQLZSU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I get the filter from my local dealership, or the Mann filter off Amazon/ECS
You want silicone paste: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016E5E59G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They use polyurethane adhesive for windshields, so i'm guessing that would probably work fine for your mirror.
I don't think it comes in smaller containers than this for the 3m stuff though https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493075069&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+polyurethane
I use two in my 00 toyota sienna.
http://www.amazon.com/BG-44K-Fuel-System-Cleaner/dp/B00DDVU6EI
http://www.amazon.com/MOA-Part-110-Engine-Supplement/dp/B00FX6N7DI/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0DG7P6AQQ4C24AMTHVK7
Early on I had a gelled up engine, low oil pressure issue I used the BG cleaner and removed the oil pan to finish the cleaning. Its been pretty good!