(Part 3) Best tv & video products according to redditors
We found 7,171 Reddit comments discussing the best tv & video products. We ranked the 2,023 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
And, generally, prices are higher for the "lower prices" merchants because they have high shipping, and you'll never know what shady as fuck carrier they plan to use (USPS Sure post hell)
Here is an example. A TV.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN22F5000-22-Inch-1080p-60Hz/dp/B00BCGRX9M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395257197&sr=8-2&keywords=tv
PRIME: Price: $408.97
When looking into other merchants, there is a lower price with free shipping. $399.00 from Beach Camera.
Do I think the amazon Prime offered sale is artificially inflated in price? Fuck no. I assume it's just not as discounted as the offer from Beach Camera. BC might be willing to lose just a tiny bit more room on the sale, and I am pretty damn sure shipping will suck ass, certainly not a 2-day guarantee.
Edit: Also for fucks sake, AMAZON TELLS YOU "Hey, you could get this slightly cheaper by checking out these other vendors" They have the transparency to fucking let you know when someone is competitively beating their prime bottom line. You just take the risk of really bad shipping speeds. What more do people want.
Projector amazon: optima hd142x $589,https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD142X-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01HQCF6R6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033012&sr=8-1&keywords=optima+hd142x
screen amazon: Carl's blackout cloth $35 built frame from 1x4s $20, 4 inch felt tape $10
https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Projection-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033098&sr=8-1&keywords=carls+blackout+cloth
Sound amazon: Onkyo 5.1 reciever and speakers $369
https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-HT-S3700-5-1-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00LU0GPAI/ref=sr_1_3?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474032983&sr=8-3&keywords=onkyo
Tv stand walmart: $65
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-TV-Stand-for-Flat-Screen-TVs-up-to-42/16451703
Side tables walmart $20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-End-Table-Black-Oak-Finish/17126588
Installed outlet and ran cables: $30
Lumber and carpet for riser lowes: $100
Recliners amazon: $299 each
https://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Ergonomic-Executive/dp/B0187VV2F0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1474033061&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=best+choice+products+massage+recliner
Edit: Better Quality Photos! https://imgur.com/gallery/yLWr7
You can grab a Roku Stick pretty cheap. I would go that way and you’d be all set.
Here's a company that makes high performance wireless HDMI transmitters (<2ms latency for all products), with prices ranging from $800-$4000. You can get cheaper transmitters off amazon (only a couple hundred dollars, which is still very significant for a $350 HMD) but its hard to find products with actual specs, and since there isn't a wireless HDMI standard you can bet that they get shittier as they get cheaper.
1080p@60FPS uncompressed is just shy of 4 Gbps, which is a lot to ask from consumer wireless hardware. The latency isn't whats holding wireless video back or whats making it expensive, its just the absurd bandwidth demand of streaming high-framerate, uncompressed, HD video. Modulating a voltage onto an EM wave and then demodulating it back to voltage in hardware does not take very long.
More like $550 https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KU6300-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69WHP6
I own the Samsung KS8500(curved) KS8000(flat) and it's an amazing tv. They make a 65'' https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFNSM
Basically just built it like a really big artist's pallet, with I think 1x1 or 2x2 lumber + a special screen material. I used 1.0 gain "blackout" cloth from Carl's Place. I think overall with the lumber, hardware, and screen material is around $100 to build. Nice thing is the screen is 100% independent from the projector so once you have one you're pretty much set for life.
Pretty sure this is the screen material I used.
Shoutout to the people on /r/hometheater who helped me out with some questions during my build :)
There are definitely things going on sale now-- https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE this dropped from ~$1100 to $990 ($979 at costco) today and is already sold out.
I would not pay $550 for this set (assuming this is the one) unless you are the kind of person who doesn't think they will really get into home theater https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Theater-Surround-System/dp/B0779GRFWF
Instead, start with a 2.1 or 3.0 set. Q Acoustics 3020i and 3090ci center. Dayton SUB 1200 subwoofer. I'd wait on the sub, though. Decent chance Parts Express might put it on sale during BF/CM. Create a deal alert for it on Slickdeals or check there daily starting Thanksgiving week.
FWIW, the new Roku TVs are absolute beasts at direct play, have tested three of them, doesn't seem to be anything that slows them down. I suspect they are also a good bit cheaper than ATVs when you factor in display and box cost.
Ended up getting this as a replacement. Cheap comparatively, but still a decent TV. TCL 50S425 50 inch 4K Smart LED Roku TV (2019) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK98NNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hn1kDbPCWBHR2
You definitely want a projector. You can easily get a projector and screen over 100" for just over $1500.
I have this, but you may prefer the W1070:
http://www.benq.com/product/projector/W1080ST
Check out Elite screens on Amazon, but I made my own from Carl's Blackout cloth:
http://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Material-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=pd_cp_e_0
I think that's a bad combination. It will technically work, but with its THUNDEROUS 4WPC max output, the amplifier is going to run out of power FAR too early for movie playback. If this were just for background music on a patio at a restaurant, it'd probably be fine. But drastically underpowering a pair of speakers is a good way to blow the tweeters as the distortion products climb.
I'd use one of these, with a old laptop power brick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Go with a Roku Streaming Stick+. That way, regardless of what smart TV you buy in the future, you'll have a good external device you can use to stream. Smart apps tend to age poorly, but Rokus tend to have a bit longer life and get supported better.
The newer Denon AVRX 1500h is out now if you want the newer version. It's not officially out yet but for some reason this person has it on sale. I bought one and it just got here 2 days ago. Denon AV Receivers Audio & Video Component Receiver BLACK (AVRX1500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AFTbBb6CB2GYZ
And in response to the comment you deleted:
> and you're struggling
Which billions of people are.
> $180 bucks to buy a tv from amazon
That is a 22 inch TV that costs 0.5 bitcoins.
I have this amp, can be found for $25 on ebay if you're willing to wait, https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/
Has the TI TPA3116 chip, and is in a nice looking aluminum case. Needs a separate DC adaptor, but they're pretty common.
Hey guys - I am an extra class licensed amateur radio operator.
At VHF/UHF frequencies (TV frequencies) you are nearly 100% dependent on line of sight propagation. You can get some scatter off buildings etc. but that is incidental.
The most important thing you can do get your antenna as high as possible, PERIOD.
This is way more important than the kind of antenna you buy etc. There is a ton of marketing BS around antennas but physics is physics.
The curvature of the earth makes it so two antennas at about 6' of elevation have a line of sight of roughly 3 miles. TV stations obviously get their broadcast antennas higher, but the short of it is, get your antenna up in the air.
The second consideration is directionality. The vast majority of TV antennas are "beam" type antennas that develop gain in a certain direction. This is great in that it can help you pull weaker signals, but it means that if you have stations 180 degrees opposite each other, you have to make a choice which one to receive, or get an antenna with a rotator - FYI im not endorsing that antenna, its just an example.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Walls
Room
Desk (Left)
Desk (Center)
Desk (Right)
Computer
I'll suggest the same setup I have.
1 Roku at each TV (streaming box that's super easy to use and runs Netflix and other streaming apps). These can connect via WIFI.
An over the air hooked up to a Tablo. The Antenna sits wherever it needs to and connects to the Tablo via coax cable. The Tablo then can connect to your router via WIFI or ethernet. Make sure you get an antenna big enough to pick up your main local stations. Since you’re going rural it may need to be an attic or roof mount installation.
Then on each Roku install the Tablo app as well as whatever other streaming services you want to use. From the Tablo app you can watch live or recorded TV, etc. just like a Tivo.
Basically the antenna sends the TV signal to the tablo. The Tablo does the recording and then sends the TV content to the Rokus via WIFI and the Tablo app on the Rokus.
So since the Tablo and Rokus are all wireless the only wiring you need to worry about is the coax from the antenna to the Tablo. If you live in the middle of a big city you can probably just get a cheap basic antenna and put it and the Tablo behind one of your TVs. If you're further out you may want to look into an attic or rooftop antenna with coax wired to somewhere inside the house for the Tablo.
For an extra $50 over the s730h you could get a brand new x1500h
I installed a powered antenna in my attic and it works really well. It looks just like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Outdoor-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=asc_df_B071V7SV6P/, was branded differently though when I bought it.
I point the antenna towards DC and get both Baltimore and DC stations - Fox, ABC, CBS, NBC, PBS, CW for both, plus a few extras like ION and some Spanish networks.
I never rotate the antenna and the only channel that sometimes (not always) get artifacts is WBAL (NBC 11)...if I rotate the antenna towards Baltimore it comes in fine, but I normally just use WRC (NBC4) if I want NBC.
Pro: https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM
non-Pro: https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP94PBJ
still unavailable
Stood up that new TV last night. Holy shit the video is really good considering the price.
But god damn, I need to hook up my amp and speakers to this thing. The onboard speakers are terrible as hell. Guess that's the tradeoff for having a super slim 4k cabinet.
Samsung UN55KS8000 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5TFLSE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_CSaAybTM3KSNF
So ~$600 US, or the exact same as in the US assuming by "good" you mean a TV like THIS
Does she like tv/movies? You could get her one of these Roku Streaming Stick+ | HD/4K/HDR Streaming Device with Long-range Wireless and Voice Remote with TV Power and Volume https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XLWML4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jOZuDbKBRH586 and subscriptions to some streaming services for a few months. What are some other things about her? Like interests, hobbies, etc? I think adding those will improve and increase responses
Yep, I spent a far bit of time trying to find the right tv for games.
LG Electronics OLED55B8PUA 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart OLED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d3xKDbFNY0C01
I own a couple Boxee Boxs. They're pretty sweet devices, and play most formats, but I've been having some issues lately with some more recent anime with certain encode profiles (like High10 for h264), but it's still overall pretty awesome.
I think it might be worth it to use a PC with the boxee software, though. It's free
I don't own any of these set top Boxes, but this is something I've been wanting to see. So Upvotes to you. Anywho, Just looking from an "At the Moment Price" perspective, I'd say either Google TV or Roku 2.
I have a $1000 Media Center (in 2008 monies) and honestly I kinda regret getting that, I wanted the potential to play games and watch HD TV, but now I see it was kind of a waste, I hardly play games, it's a streaming device and I occasionally play minecraft...
But hell nowadays, if you are able to spend up to $400 on a device your options are great, I think a computer would be easily 4x that of a set top box would be worth it.
Really for me, price is a heavy hitter on determining what I buy. Here's my thought.
Roku is cheap enough to play with IMO (the $59 version), Apple TV and GoogleTV are definitely going to be getting updates and at the price, probably worth it. The Boxee Box is [goes to look] Holy crap a year old... ya an update is most likely to be coming soon, regardless it's the most expensive, especially if you're willing to spend a bit more and get a PC.
I'd probably go with Google TV right now, the revue alone because it comes with a nice keyboard. Second is $99 Roku XS. The Boxee Box wouldn't even be in play. I'd prefer a Set Top PC honestly, but again, I'm looking at price. AppleTV if I had more Apple devices, but still more appealing than Boxee. (Take this with a grain of salt, I haven't used any of these)
Either way, Hope this helps.
*edit, formatting, spelling
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-BD-C6500-1080p-Blu-ray-Player/dp/B00365EVW4
Or if you don't want BD Live memory and wireless built in (both can be added externally to this one):
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-BD-C5500-1080p-Blu-ray-Player/dp/B000B60H0G
There's a Samsung Hulu app, not certain if it's in there or gets added as an update or what. It's got Youtube and Netflix for sure though.
Other stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Roku-XDS-Streaming-Player-1080p/dp/B00426C57O/
http://www.amazon.com/Apple-MC572LL-A-TV/dp/B001FA1NK0/
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-1080p-Media-Player/dp/B003MVZ60I/
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DSM-380-Boxee-Box-by/dp/B0038JE07O/
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SMP-N100-Network-Media-Player/dp/B0042SDDXM/
http://www.amazon.com/Viewsonic-NexTV-VMP75-Network-Player/dp/B003JQLI9O/
http://www.amazon.com/Roku-HD1000-High-Definition-Digital-Player/dp/B0000DH8HH/ (an early Roku device, still kinda neat but limited)
A good monitor at that size and price is going to cost too much.
For $200-$300, a decent TV is a much more realistic option.
For 32" this LG or this Samsung are both ~$250.
For 40", you're looking at the low 300 (that same LG model)+.
My roommate and I bought this Samsung TV last year for our dorm room (yes, we had two TV's) and it was great. I paid $232.00 for it. Check out Amazon's used TV's under their Warehouse Deals, as they are usually just repackaged and have nothing wrong with it. No matter what TV you get I would highly recommend keeping the box and packaging it comes with as it will make transporting it a breeze.
I used this from Amazon. It came folded with lots of creases and lines, but as soon as I stretched it over the frame they disappeared.
Carl's Blackout Cloth, DIY Projector Screen, Raw Material/Fabric, 66x110-inch, Matte White, 16:9/1.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_0o9lxb16HAD89
Wow first time I had the urge to login in awhile lol.
I am interested in doing this as well! I am curious if this would work:
http://www.amazon.com/Viewtv-Converter-Recording-Function-Composite/dp/B00GGVPKKC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396015977&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;keywords=compositie+recorder
A review says you need to supply your own USB drive but that's not a big deal. But I don't know if it would work with recording a gamecube.
this is available at a few locations now for that price (amazon, best buy)
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE
Just bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5TFLSE
Samsung SUHD 55" Series 8, UN55KS8000 for $997
$1500 is the minimum it's been on Amazon according to CamelCamelCamel.
I pulled the trigger on the 65" KS8000 over the weekend (bought it at Best Buy) and am very happy with it so far. My credit card offers 90 day price protection, so if I find a lower price within that timeframe (however unlikely) I can go through them and get the lower price.
Many credit cards offer that feature - just something to be aware of.
Ok, so I'm guessing this one, then... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EEOSZK0/
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Since neither device includes service, the BOLT is the obvious choice... cheaper at $155, and with built-in MoCA 2.0 bridge, mobile streaming, Gigabit Ethernet, Wireless-AC, and limited 4K support.
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Modding CableCARD support into a slightly more expensive Roamio OTA with included All-In service plan would complicate my choice.
If you are viewing on a TV, just get an antenna. It's mostly HD signal over the air. If you want recording options, I use NextPVR on a Windows PC. Other people like Kodi on linux. Otherwise if you want it simple, get /r/tablotv or the new Tivo Roamio OTA DVR. Comes with lifetime of progamming guide with no monthly fee.
https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Roamio-OTA-DVR-Compatible/dp/B01DR4T73Q
I just placed an order through Amazon for one of these new units.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DR4T73Q?m=A3VC48F15JVCOB&amp;ref_=v_sp_detail_page
The price seems too low to be true. We'll see what happens.
I bought the TiVo with a lifetime subscription off Amazon for $370. Keep an eye open for the QNAP Nas's; they're constantly going on sale in different places. I picked mine up on woot for around $400. The antenna was $55 on Amazon.
TiVo Roamio OTA 1 TB DVR - With No Monthly Service Fees - Digital Video Recorder and Streaming Media Player - Compatible only with HDTV Antennas (does not work with cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DR4T73Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m1rOybT8DP8NC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E69WHP6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473433147&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=4k+samsung+55&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51AII3epKoL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a pretty affordable TV, and it comes with everything you need to get the most out of your Xbox One S, PS4 pro, or whatever high resolution/HDR gaming system your using.
It has the correct HDR support, it's a smart TV, has 120 refresh, it's Samsung which is a top brand, and it's 4K resolution.
Yamaha RX-V583 was $500 bucks
Fluance Signature Hi-Fi Towers $700
Fluance Signature Hi-Fi surrounds $250
Fluance Signature Hi-Fi center $150
BIC America 475w sub $160 when I bought it.
I originally had a Vizio 55" 1080p TV back in the day that I used with this that was around a thousand. I upgraded to a Sony 65" 4k, that I have since moved to a different room, and am currently using a Sony X900E 65".
Before I went with the higher end Fluance stuff, I went with their $250 surround in a box, and it was still light years ahead of going to the theaters. It was also drastically cheaper. I helped set up a buddy, and for the sound without the TV, he went with the $250 speakers, same sub for $200, and an entry level Yamaha 5.1 that was on sale for $300 and absolutely loves it. $750 for something that will blow away those little HTIB away.
There's a lot to choose from. The first thing to know is that most DTV antennas' distance rating is for 10 feet off the ground so the higher the better. Second is most of the distance ratings are based off diameter so if it's rated for 100 miles it means you are getting 50 miles in any direction. You are between 60-70 miles, as the crow flies, in Dover. They do make antennas that are directional and have motors so some of the distance numbers I just threw at you might not matter. Also always get an amplified antenna. All said and done I like this one,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cE0WDb00GECYB
One more thing. If you plug it into the splitter box that the old Comcast coax came into your house you'll be sending the signal through out your home instead of just one TV.
PS. If you didn't already know you'll have to run a channel scan on every TV you want to use it on.
Go with This one. It's the cheapest device that features the power button and volume controls on the remote, this way you're not juggling remotes. It also has a Wi-Fi extender and 4K capabilities in case you upgrade to a 4K TV in the future.
If you wait until Black Friday you can probably save $20 dollars.
If you just want something cheap, I'd actually go with the standard Amazon fire stick which is $34.99 right now.
Is this a good deal? Already bought the Yamaha receiver that was on sale at Costco, looking for some speakers to go with it for a 5.1 setup in my living room.
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Klipsch Black Reference Theater Pack 5.1 Surround Sound System
I’d do Denon 1500 for $299
Denon 1500
DCM 3 piece Ebay
Infinity R 10 sub Or Add sub later..........
or
Denon 1500
DCm Towers add sub n center Later but DCM are a CloseOut so wouldn't wait too Long for Center
or
Polk TSi 300
or
Polk Monitor 40
or
Jamo S 803 Ebay Offer $115.......
OR
Denon 1500
Jamo S803 HCS on Amazon Add Sub Later
Denon x1500 $299 on amazon - I almost bought it before I decided to go with the 3500 series. (If you also have the Amazon card it's 285).
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=denon+receiver&qid=1572973192&sr=8-4
Denon X1500 https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S
Save up an extra 300 bucks and get the 2018 LG B8 for $1600, it's worth it. No LCD can match an OLED for image quality in general and while there are very good HDR LCD's the HDR on OLED's is quite good to begin with.
https://www.amazon.com/LG-inches-Smart-OLED-OLED55B8PUA/dp/B07DRRYS1W/
The B8 has two important HDR functions the 2017 C7/B7 series do not
Both of those features help combat the overly dim/dark scenes you can get in some HDR implementations due to miss matched tone mapping systems that affect all types of HDR10 across LCD and OLED.
LG have said the 2017 models will not be getting the above features. So if you buy a C7/B7 you are reliant on a game having an internal HDR calibration setting to adjust to the display or hope that down the road the HDR game group which MS & LG are now a part of will sort out these issues as the console scans the TV for HDR profile into and makes the adjustments on it's side.
Given the amount of money your spending you want everything just right with maximum flexibility, get the B8.
The folks on liftgammagain talk about this quite a bit. You'd obviously need a lut box. Panasonic OLED That's the one they use.
This is one of those times where it's worth it to spend a little extra, to be honest; at that size, you're unlikely to find anything of lasting quality for that price.
For example, this 50" Samsung 7-series is $350, which I would absolutely buy instead of this 50" TCL model. (Many friends/co-workers/family-members have owned TCLs, and while a very few have been lucky, most of them have either had lackluster quality or died after maybe two years.)
NU8500 is a good TV if you are getting a great clearance price on it.
Newegg had it for $619.99 but has since sold out. At that price it's a good deal, but at closer to $1,200 there are better options like the LG OLED B8
Here are rtings.com top recommendations for 55 inch, though sometimes the model numbers change in different countries.
Hey audio nerds:
Been looking into getting a used speaker set local, saw this deal and I almost feared it was too good to be true: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/371612990366058/
So is it too good to be true?
Edit: for reference, this is the TV I want to hook it up to: TCL 50S425 50 inch 4K Smart LED Roku TV (2019) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK98NNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z4gwDbHWK0AHF
Which I guess, sidenote, will it hook up to this TV? Forgive my ignorance, I'm new to this.
Not OP, but I went from a "base model" PS4 on 720p to a PS4 Pro and a 4k TV and its seriously amazing. Sometimes I just switch it between 1080p and 4k resolution settings to look at it and you can definitely tell the difference. Make sure your TV supports HDR too because a lot of the graphic improvements deal with lighting. I've been playing Division 2 with the neutral light setting on and its incredible how good/accurate lights glow in dark and shine when bright.
Here's the one I have, its super cheap, but it gets the job done: https://smile.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ
it's back btw. https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM
https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I have Youtube TV and I love it. Also, if you're looking for a user friendly smart TV that's not super expensive I recommend the TCL smart tv's.
They're lightweight (seriously they don't weigh much at all) so hanging them on wall is easy, they're cheap, the user interface is simple and responsive, Roku is built into it so there's no additional hardware to purchase or setup.
At a budget that low, I would recommend the TCL 4 series. Nothing to write home about with picture quality, but nothing glaringly wrong either:
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ/
The option I would probably go with is to get her a Boxee Box. Here is an Amazon Link.
That can accept the Slingbox stream and display it directly on the TV using a simple remote control.
The nice thing is you can also plug an HD OTA antenna into it. This will allow her to watch all of the local stuff for free that is being sent over the air.
This should eliminate some of the headaches involved with streaming the TV to the slingbox. Those headaches being latency, potential bandwidth issues or limitations, etc. Some of which might not happen all the time but may pop up occasionally.
You can also let her use your Netflix and/or Hulu Plus account on the Boxee Box too.
So she should have plenty of options.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JE07O
doesn't say... but I would assume you could clone the built-in drive to something bigger easily... it's just an ATOM CPU based PC running a custom Linux-based OS...
plus there's room for expansion (2x USB and a SD card reader)
Looks like you can pick one up used from Amazon Warehouse Deals for $117 (Prime) LINK. Compared to a few other options it seems pricey, but it is a pretty polished build and the remote is useful. Well worth the money over a WD TV Live. The Boxee Box is much more "wife-friendly" or "kid-friendly" IMO.
I have the asus monitor u posted but without the speakers. Any monitor ive ever had with speakers the speakers sucked. The monitor is great tho, I use it all the time on my pc to play games on and Im sure it will be great for the xbox.
I say if your gonna buy a monitor, buy a monitor without speakers and use the extra money to either get a decent headset or speakers. But, in my opinion when your playing on consoles my preference is playing on a tv. I sometimes play 2player games and you cant really do that on a monitor. Plus sometimes you wanna kick back on a bed or sit a few feet away from the screen and a monitor doesnt really let you do that.
http://www.amazon.com/LG-32LN5300-32-Inch-LED-lit-1080p/dp/B00BB0ZTM2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393922744&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=1080p+tv
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393922744&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=1080p+tv
Keyboard: Tomoko Blue Switch Needed a keyboard for when I used a laptop when its keyboard was failing. Went with a cheap mechanical. My short review of keyboard
Mouse: SteelSeries Sensei Swapping out for a Zowie FK1 on Monday (Sensei has disconnect issues after 4 years of use)
Headset: Siberia 350 Originally had a Siberia V2 I got for $50 @ Walmart due to box damage. RMA'd once for a V2 with the soundcard. Audio died in one ear on RMA after a year so RMA'd again and was given the newer Siberia Prism v3. Sound died in one ear after a short drop. Was given $150 in store credit to get the Siberia 350 + Mousepad.
Mousepad: QcK+
Monitor: Acer KG240. Purchased from Microcenter for $150 on sale.
2nd Monitor: Samsung 32" 1080p TV mounted on wall with this wallmount. Bought the TV a few years ago ~2012
Other: Snagged a Razer Tartarus a couple years ago for really cheap. thought I'd use it but never got around to trying it.
-----
On peripherals that I'd like to upgrade would be Headphones/Mic first. I've always had my eyes on Beyerdynamic DT990 with a DAC/AMP + an AT2020
It all depends on what you would like to spend. At the cheapest you could do it for around $500. This would restrict you to SVGA resolution which is 800x600 IIRC.
The breakdown for this would be:
If possible I would invest in a nice mid-range projector like the BenQ W107. It is one of the highest rated projectors in its price range although it is a bit pricy.
EDIT: To answer your questions, I doubt there are any outside safe projectors. Your best bet would be some kind of watertight housing if you are keeping it outside. But if you're investing in a projector you might as well use it inside too and have a 5 meter screen. Screens all depend on the material. You want something that is evenly reflective which makes a big difference in the appearance of the image. The cheapest thing right now that works incredibly well is blackout cloth which is used in window blinds to block out the sun by reflecting it. The cost is so small compared to the difference in image to a white sheet or a board that it is generally recommended.
Ah ok, totally missed that. So i bought this projector screen material. Planning on doing something like this projector screen DIY. The tape on the wall was just so I can measure without having the projector on.
I'm hoping this should be good enough. At least it'll be cheap :P
Screens can make a big difference but to the common eye just a reasonably priced, well reviewed one off amazon will do you fine.
If either of you are handy, the best bet is to buy the felt and build it yourself.
(Example: Carl's Blackout Cloth, DIY Projector Screen Material/Projection Screen Fabric, 66x110-inch, Matte White, 16:9/1.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0MArybQ4R09XE)
If that's not the case then I'd just search amazon for screens in your budget and read the reviews. You can get a decent screen for $100-$200.
The fabric I used is this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MYRPwb2FRNNJG. I used command hooks because the wall behind the screen is cinder block and I installed grommets into the screen. Then pulled it tight with like 6 of the command hooks.
I made the screen using poplar wood for the frame and "Carls Blackout Cloth". They have a good guide on their website on how to put it together and the material works great once it's stretched. It's quite durable as well, I know it looks like theres a cut on it in the picture but it's just a defect in my phone camera.
I am extremely pleased with the Jamo speakers. The towers are great for the mid-lows to high range which is perfect, if it is paired with a nice subwoofer. The surrounds are small and as such cannot get loud. I ran into a issue when I was blasting Tron and there was a scene that was sending music to the surrounds. The surrounds attempted to keep up with the towers and distorted quite a bit. I have found this occurrence to be rare as usually it's just support sound coming from the surround speakers so far. However for the price I'm blown away and would pay more for just the 2 towers and center. I will likely upgrade the surrounds if it becomes an issue, however I don't plan on upgrading anytime soon.
I mean wireless HDMI is a thing..
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Wireless-Transmitter-Projector-NPCS600/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0092T3E3A&amp;pd_rd_r=95Y2GH4C6AP9E92RPC57&amp;pd_rd_w=jkkEU&amp;pd_rd_wg=W9qk8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=95Y2GH4C6AP9E92RPC57&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=socialtech109-20&amp;linkId=2be7253b298c8a5714478346b5be2842
I don't really know why you'd assume it's a money issue either. Obviously if a product like this exists, it's a niche product and will not be budget friendly. I could just build it myself as the technology is there, I'd just rather buy it and not mess around with it
If I buy another laptop then I still have the issue of transferring files to both devices so there's not really a reason to get a new one.
u/FloX04 - the $249.99 Nyrius Aries Pro is probably the least expensive option [Referral Link].
Reviewed here (reviewer is using it for remote monitoring, but it will work with your Camlink as well).
Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right wireless video solution for your needs!
look up Nyrius Wireless HDMI. I used it and it works pretty well, but I would not recommend it if you plan to use surround sound. The wireless really kills the surround sound quality (ps3 games sounded like a somewhat low quality MP3 file). There was also a slight degrade in visual quality that I didn't notice until I actually switched between the wired and wireless hdmi. If you are just going to be watching FiOS TV, Nyrius Wireless HDMI will be excellent. If you want surround sound and absolutely perfect picture quality for gaming or blue-rays, buy a long hdmi cable from monoprice.com. Since you are hanging this TV on a patio and it sounds like you are just going to watch FiOS tv, I would get the "Nyrius ARIES Pro Wireless HDMI" http://amzn.com/B0092T3E3A. Otherwise go with this http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=102&amp;cp_id=10255&amp;cs_id=1025507&amp;p_id=9172&amp;eform=e
If you don't want to lose the ~15% in DC to AC conversion, you can stick with a 12v powered LED TV such as Jensen 19".
At one time, I wanted and had a 42" LED in my 24' RV and I have since traded it out for 22" LED TVs. The 42" was just way too over-powering for the viewing distance of 3'. I now much prefer have 2-3 small tv's running a chromecast on each. They are so tiny and use hardly any power. I have a Samsung 22" and it works beautifully.. the picture looks better than my mac pro with retina display. I also have the 19" version of this tv and it's just not as good.. The 22" is the sweet spot for me.
most sites tell that its refresh rate is60 hz tho http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN22F5000-22-Inch-1080p-Model/dp/B00BCGRX9M
That DRV+ is expensive, but there are others for $30 like the Viewtv 163 https://www.amazon.com/Viewtv-Converter-Recording-Function-Composite/dp/B00GGVPKKC
None of them seem to say what the quality of the recording is. If you get a good HD signal, it can be higher bitrate than cable.
Check out the standalone DVR's like the Mediasonic, this , or this, or this
You just need a tuner dude, this would probably be fine.
Yup. Cheaper than I remember, too. <$40 for this:
ViewTV AT-163 ATSC Digital TV Converter Box and Media Player
It has some quirks (made in China so menus and remote functions aren't translated well) but it works perfectly and you can take everything to go on a USB drive to watch on a laptop or any other TV.
You would, unless your monitor also has one for some reason. This one looks like it would work, but I haven't bought one of these in a long time.
I have the Miccas along with this sub running off this amp. Glorious sound for just over $200 total.
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492134013&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=nobsound+50wx2&amp;refinements=p_72%3A2661618011 Nobsound Mini TPA3116 Audio HIFI 2.0 Channel Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 $40, https://smile.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-120-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00HFG3FYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492120518&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Dayton+Audio+DTA-120 Dayton Audio DTA-120 Class T Digital Mini Amplifier 60 WPC $95, Also Headphone Amp
Completely new to this hifi thing and was going to get a closed box 2.1 system for around $150 now Im thinking I will start with
$90 Micca MB42X pair
$40 Nobsound Mini TPA3116
$11 Speaker Wire
Do I need anything else to make these work? Should I consider anything else (willing to go up to $200 if its significant) ? I plan to buy a sub later down the line when my budget allows it.
A little bit higher than you want, but not too much higher. The 55 is actually cheaper than the 49 for some reason.
I would say if you are sitting at a desk area like me, go with the Sony 43x800d
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR43X800D-43-Inch-Ultra-Model/dp/B01FWIEO2E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478270275&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=x800d
If you are going to be in a living room area go with a 49-60 inch Samsung KS8000
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE/ref=sr_1_2?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478270333&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=ks8000
Samsung UN65KS800
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFNSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479438607&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=65ks8000
I think this will do you nicely. I paid a few hundred more for mine a few months ago but don't regret it one bit.
How about this one? $1,500 for the one you want, but not sure if it ships to you in Canada (or if import taxes too high):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5TFNSM/ref=amb_link_480564442_6?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=hero-quick-promo&amp;pf_rd_r=E4CBVHAK5HXV4HGDM7N2&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_p=2577908202&amp;pf_rd_i=B01C5TFLSE
https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Roamio-OTA-DVR-Compatible/dp/B01DR4T73Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472752971&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=tivo+bolt+ota
Ebay
I'm not currently seeing any "All In" Bolt boxes on Amazon, but there are Roamios available.
Yeah, still don't have nextlight here but i've considered getting an antenna and a tivo for it, but I really struggle to think of anything i'm particularly missing. I suppose if you wanted to watch local sports then it'd be a good idea, but hardly worth it for me.
I will say that I think tivo have a great product. If i were going down that path i'd get a TiVo Roamio and an antenna.
Here's the Amazon link to that TV:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KU6300-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69WHP6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468311499&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=UN55KU6300
Link explaining Pricematch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=200726210
Ok thanks for the explanation .
What do you think about this one ?
Samsung UN55KU6300 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E69WHP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ccY0xbTKA1TMZ
Got the Samsung UN55KU6300 55-Inch 4K for $550+ tax
I mean the first TV is complete shit and the second TV is the most shit TV LG sells thats 4k and HDR.
It seems you want the biggest screen for least amount of money and dont really care about spec.
The Sony x900e is the set to buy if you arent going for oled.
65" is $1500
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR65X900E-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MZF81NS
If you just want to spend $1000 then youre better off buying it in a 55" size
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MUG21R7
Why?
Best lighting system (full array) after oled technology, very good peak brightness for HDR (1billion colors v 18million, to see top end of these colors you need lots of brightness, and control over zones, the full array part, edge like you are looking at dont go as bright nor break screen down into controllable zones)
I haven’t seen it drop lower than $1299, no, but if you’re willing to give amazon warehouse deals a chance they’ve got the 65” X900E for $1275, I personally bought my 900E from them and it arrived brand new, the box had just been removed. Plus their customer support is the best.
I would 100% buy a 65” 900E over a 55” 900F.
WTF?! That's ridiculous - explains the $500 discount, I guess.
If you are cool with refrubs, Amazon has a refurbed PQ65 for $1499... or a new 65" X900E for the same price.
Sony XBR900E
In order to have true surround sound, you will need an "audio receiver". A receiver takes in several different inputs (3.5 mm jack, RCA inputs, HDMI video and audio, bluetooth), and then you select which input is played over the speakers. The receiver will take care of amplification, so all you need are bare speakers and wire.
You should check out this Yamaha receiver
You can use a good receiver for decades, so I suggest investing in a good quality one. I own the predecessor to the linked receiver, and I really like it.
It looks like your subwoofer can actually amplify and power your speakers, but you won't get 5.1 surround sound. The best you can get is left, right and subwoofer. Also the input looks kinda tricky because it's bare wires. You'll need something like this to get the audio input to work.
If you can afford it, I recommend going for the receiver, or I can give you more detail on how to hook up the subwoofer-only amplifier. What device are you getting music from? Smart phone jack, DVD player, computer?
For HDMI there's HDMI switches. One output port (to the TV) with 2, 3, 4, etc inputs. Usually they can switch automatically based on whats powered on, sometimes they'll have a remote for you to select the device yourself, and there will be a button on the device itself to switch inputs. You can find them on Amazon, but it can be a real crapshoot since the vast majority are just generic Chinese things that any random "company" will just slap their name on and sell for whatever. I've never had a problem with the ones I've bought on Amazon (knock on wood), but you'll find most devices will have plenty of bad reviews. You can also find more name brand HDMI switches in stores like Best Buy, Fry's, etc, but they'll be WAY more expensive, like $40+ compared to like $12 for some chinese one on Amazon. I can't speak to the quality of those, since I've never bought them. They'll be easier to return and replace if there are any problems, so thats a plus.
For composite video (Yellow, White, Red cables) there's been switches for those for years. Just look for A/V Switch, Composite Switch, RCA Switch, etc. I bought one like 15 years ago so I can't really recommend anything today. There's also component ones (Green, Blue, Red, and Red and White audio).
If you want to get hardcore you can also get a home theater receiver (like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=dp_ob_title_ce) which will have a few HDMI ports as well as basic composite inputs, though there are some that will do component. This is the most expensive option, but if you're serious about having a home theater with surround sound, it's pretty much the only option.
I'm trying to understand your issue here - what exactly are you trying to do to make it sound better? It's only going to sound as good as what's playing it - so, if you're using the speakers on your TV, it's probably not great. You can do something like this:
Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_3?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541375743&amp;sr=1-3
Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Channel-Theater-Subwoofer/dp/B00EOZFUYI/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541375795&amp;sr=1-7
This https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
with this cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-1-Male-2-Female-RCA-Y-Adapter/dp/B01D5H8RE0/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499935753&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=dual+subwoofer+adapter plug the purple end into the sub out on the receiver then run a left rca to one subwoofer and a right rca to the other(into the sub-in on the Pl-200). Run an hdmi from your Amazon Fire TV to an hdmi input on the receiver and then an hdmi out from the receiver to your tv. If you don't already have speaker wire I recommend https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWYP1G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and if you want banana plugs these are good https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Plated-Speaker-Banana-Closed/dp/B0097JLQVC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499936973&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=4+pairs+banana+plugs&amp;psc=1
An AV receiver would be what I would use. Though I don't know your budget. It's a great first step towards home theater. The link below is just one of many options:
Yamaha RX-V383BL 5.1-Channel 4K Ultra HD AV Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WbsSAbVEX4MMT
I'm looking to get a receiver and 5.1 speaker set. This will primarily be for movies/netflix on chromecast and playing switch. Turns out my projector only does a stereo output, no surround sound. Never had one before though. I still need to pick out some speakers too. Don't really know what I'm doing.
I was going to buy this Yamaha receiver, which is billed as a high quality entry receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505393656&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=receiver&amp;refinements=p_36%3A10000-99999999
Then today I came across this Pioneer bundle that seems pretty popular, but it's cheap to the point that I worry about the quality:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JOBIFP2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
And then there's also this Yamaha bundle that's a little more expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071JY862G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Thoughts on these, or something better in a similar price range? Thanks!
For a small space, those KEFs will sound great -
Many modern receivers still have phono pre-amps. That model doesn't though. You could always add one in-line, on the cheap. Depends on what you find for a turntable.
The Denon is a good start, I like Yamaha, myself. But honestly, you could even got down to a no frills Yamaha 2 channel, non-HDMI receiver for about $99 - but you want HDMI for your Fire TV box?
You could look at a Yamaha 5.1 AVR for about $220 ish (a little less if you get it from A4L)
The Denon x1400 is highly recommended here too - if you can get it on sale.
You're welcome. There are probably hundreds to choose from. My preference is something like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527804963&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+receiver
https://www.amazon.com/Debut-Bookshelf-Speakers-Andrew-Jones/dp/B014GSER6O/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527805053&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=elac+spaker
Speaker quality scales with your budget. Much more so than any other part of your system.
Adding a $100 power amp to $400 speakers is reasonable. But looking at the rest of your setup, you may want to visit an audio showroom (if there's one local to you) and audition some speakers, to get an idea how $400 speakers compare to more expensive speakers.
That said, I personally have Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 speakers ($300) and KEF Q100 speakers ($550 reduced to $250 on clearance) and I like the KEFs best.
The KEFs are paired with a Yamaha AV receiver ($220), and the Wharfedales are paired with an SMSL SA-50 ($62) amp.
I also have a pair of Edifier R1280T powered speakers, and they aren't in the same class, at all. There are definitely better choices for powered speakers.
I bought this antenna. I point it at the 3 antennas on the mountain. I used www.antennaweb.org to find the location/reception of the various TV stations in the area. Also, that antenna is cheap, so I put it in my attic. Besides heat and cold, it is not getting blasted by the elements.
HDTV, probably this one
if you don't have a smart TV, purchase a Google Chromecast for $35, or an Amazon firestick, or a Roku.
Roku is probably the most user friendly IMO.
www.slingtv.com for $25 I get all the channels I want, for $40 or more you can get all the sports you want.
https://www.amazon.com/TV-Antenna-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536590189&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=hd+antenna hook this up for local Over-The-Air channels
https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Outdoor-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_lp_t_1
no, here:
https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-streaming-wireless/dp/B075XLWML4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511458702&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=roku+stick+plus
I agree with others that say the Shield is the best no-compromises solution. However, I've had excellent luck with my Roku Streaming Stick+. It direct-plays all my H.264 and 10-bit H.265 content. However, I don't have any fancy audio requirements like many others, so I can't speak to whether it can handle DTS-X, ATMOS, or whatever.
I have mine strapped to the back of my TV and connected via 5GHz WiFi to a router in the cabinet beneath the TV, which is more than enough to support 4k streaming.
You can get one on Amazon for $50.
As the other guy mentioned the Roku is a better choice than the Firestick. Among other downsides one of the bad things about the Firestick is that it doesn't have official youtube support.
They have a $30 1080p version and a $60 4k version. Assuming the sale is the same as last year the 4k Roku should get down to around $40 on Black Friday.
I had posted some information about Miracast yesterday and thought I'd add some more information. It might be too detailed for most people and they might not care but here it is nonetheless:
As is mentioned in the wiki, the technology protocol it uses is Miracast, which is a peer-to-peer wireless networking technology. To further expand on that, it's considered WiFi Direct, which means that while your internet connection, modem, router, and WiFi factor into using your bike, your casting to a device/TV does not. The WiFi connected devices in your house unrelated to your bike or TV could interfere with your ability to Miracast since they operate on the same frequencies (2.4Ghz and 5Ghz).
Also, casting from Digital is not always the same as casting from your bike. Bike casting is just literally casting whatever is on your screen to a Miracast device. While a lot of mobile devices can do Miracast as well they tend to go a different route for casting of content to another device. For instance, Android phones and tablets can cast to a Chromecast using the app where the bike cannot cast to a Chromecast.
The device I use to cast from my bike to my TV is the Roku Stream Stick+ after having a lot of issues with my LG TV 's Miracast losing signal often. It is the 4K version of the Roku Stream Stick, which should also work, but I've only tried it with a Roku Stream Stick+. I think any current gen Roku device will work. The reason I opted for the Stream Stick is because it's small footprint and it's the cheaper of Roku devices, since I only use the Roku for the Peloton bike. Here is the support article for Roku devices and screen mirroring (Miracast).
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Theater-Surround-System/dp/B0779GRFWF
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V385-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B07BNXXJKB
You could likely also get a good receiver used for less.
If you want stereo speakers that would be amazing for music as well
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Reference-Premiere-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07G3D2C8S
I like the sound profile of Klipsch horn speakers. Personal preference.
These Energy are the gold standard for an affordable 5.1 set.
https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Classic-Theater-System-Black/dp/B001202C44
I picked up this set of speakers for my dad a couple days ago for $180. Search Craigslist and Facebook for deals. I've been waiting for a good deal on them for a while and ended up with a steal! He even threw in 5 stands and speaker cable for free.
Klipsch Reference Theater Pack
First of all, lets get some terminology straight. DAC, Digital-Analog Converter.What you are referring to is a surround sound receiver, not a DAC.
With that out of the way., I would not recommend a complete package by either Onkyo or Denon as neither of those make good speakers. Their expertise lies with electronics.Better to buy seperate.
Denon makes some good cheap AV recievers like the AVR-S540, S740 and X-series.
Dayton Audio makes decent speakers. Their new Transmission line floor speaker seems nice.Fluance and pioneer also makes good speakers, Pioneer with their series of speakers designed by Andrew Jones (and nothing else by them)
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-mk442t-51-home-theater-speaker-bundle-with-12-powered-subwoofer--300-707
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-FS52-Designed-standing-Loudspeaker/dp/B008NCD2S4/
https://www.fluance.com/elite-series-surround-sound-home-theater-5-1-channel-speaker-system-sx51br
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/
r/hometheater is a better subreddit for this sort of stuff. I suggest you take this conversation over there.
Option 1:
Center channel speaker
Tower speakers
Denon 7.2 receiver
I chose these options for one main reason. The towers have 8" woofers in thr bottom of them, basically acting as subwoofers. The center matches them. The denon is a great receiver.
Option 2:
Center channel speaker
Front tower speakers
The same receiver.
I picked these because they are extremely dynamic and fun speakers. They take almost no power, and will make crazy amounts of sound. They also get much lower than the Fluances.
I would pick option 2. The only reason I included option 1 is because it's on amazon.
IMO, this is the latest/greatest stereo for your budget:
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
https://www.amazon.com/KEF-Q350-Bookshelf-Speakers-Black/dp/B071VYGRML/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526850200&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=kef+q350&amp;psc=1
Total $1250. I think you will be happy with the bass performance. It won't shake the walls-but thats not what your looking for.
Speaker placement explained here with pictures:https://www.dolby.com/us/en/guide/surround-sound-speaker-setup/5-1-setup.html
KEF makes custom speaker stands, but you can buy from other manufactures like Sanus for cheaper. Monoprice and Bluejeanscable make good cheap cables. Lots of people like Amazonbasics or Mediabridge cables as well.
LG Electronics OLED55B8PUA 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart OLED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vCcxDbAQWPWXA
Yeah I saw this on amazon,
LG Electronics OLED55B8PUA (2018)
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B8PUA-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B07DRRYS1W
Really tempted. It's a 2018 model but for the price I can live with it. Still, it's on the high end of what I want to spend and I game so I'm always worried about burn-in. Had a plasma and I think I spent more time worrying about burn in then enjoying the tv.
I'll take a look at a few of those suggestions.
LG 55 inches 4K Smart OLED TV OLED55B8PUA (2018) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_din2Bb95N4VSW
Its $200 over your budget but the price will only go down from now until black Friday weekend. I have an OLED and Samsung's QLED and the OLED is the best looking picture I have ever seen.
This is better and cheaper probably if you’re gonna go used LG Electronics OLED55B8PUA 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart OLED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C.TLDbPF2VPSW
I'd get this case for $20 after rebate, so you have enough money for a decent power supply. Like this Antec.
Also, that 890FXA doesn't have onboard video, nor does that CPU have an IGP, as far as I know. Unless you plan to make this a headless unit, you'd need to get something like a G630 (comes with a stock fan, so the total cost is actually lower), and an entry-level H61 motherboard. Ideally one with a DVI or HDMI port on the back. For example.
So assuming you took the Intel route instead, you'd also want one stick of RAM, because mATX boards usually have only two slots. That way, you leave room to add more.
Alternatively, you can just buy a Boxee Box and connect an external drive to it, or have another computer on the network that contains a media storage drive.
If you want wireless streaming of HD video you'll want a wireless adapter for the computer or to have your computer physically attached to a network that has a wireless router. You'll also need some sort of media box that has wireless streaming capabilities. As much as I hate to recommend it, the Apple TV would be a good cheap solution. You could also get the Boxee Box or something like this by D-Link.
Skip the Apple TV and get a Boxee Box. Sure, it is more expensive, but the versatility is MUCH better. It plays everything and already integrates with Netflix! And no hassle of dealing with installing XBMC and all that.
edit//I should mention, that it supports the Netflix streaming built right in. It does NOT, however, have a dvd drive. So you would still need a player for that. Which I presume you probably already have.
Have you looked at Boxee?
Also on Amazon probably better explanation on amazon actually.
Some TV's have "apps" on them (I own one that does) and sometimes there's a Netflix app. The ones that do have a netflix app will be able to plug into your router, or connect to your wifi network, just like a computer or wii would have to. There are some things like roku or boxee that can be cheaper than PCs or game consoles, that are intended for netflix, hulu, etc.
They used to make a device called a SlingCatcher for this purpose, but it is no longer made and is very expensive used.
You have a couple of options if you want to watch SlingBox on your TV:
One is to buy a Boxee for $179 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JE07O) and install the SlingPlayer app. Another option is to plug a laptop into the TV and watch it on there. If you have a new TV with Google TV, I think they also make a SlingPlayer app that you can install.
From experience, you're not going to want a massive TV in a dorm. You might think you have a lot of room but once you get all your stuff moved in, you'll be shocked at how little space you have. Especially if you have to share the room with another person like I did. I don't know if you do or not. That being said, I currently have this TV: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407569960&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+32+inch+1080p. I bought it probably 8 months ago and it's really nice. For gaming, it looks great and LED is a lot more reliable than LCD or Plasma. Even though Plasma supposedly offers the best picture for games. It's not the smart version, but I don't need it since I use my TV as a monitor. TV brands are important though, you definitely want Sony, Samsung, or LG. Don't settle for any others. My roommate has a 42" Sony and it's really awesome! My other roommate has a 50" Phillips and it's decent.
I recently did a ton of research on tv's cause we plan to upgrade in the near future. At the moment, the most reliable brands are LG, Panasonic, Samsung, and Sony. Out of those, I found a few used tv's that match your requirements.
Samsung 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED HDTV $259 w/ free shipping
LG Electronics 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED $257.50 w/ free shipping
And if you can scrape together a little more money, you could consider this:
Samsung 32-Inch 1080p 60 Hz Smart LED HDTV $294 w/free shipping
I know those are all over $250, but they do have free shipping, and they are all very good tv's. Anyway, I hope you find something awesome! That makes me really want a good tv ;)
I'd love something nice for my son.
Since LEDs don't produce the crappy soap opera motion (or it might be toggle-able) this is probably perfect for you.
32 Inch 1080p LED LCD TV: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-Black/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_720?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371595201&amp;sr=1-720&amp;keywords=hdtv
If you go with this one, here's a little sidenote from the reviews.
"Picture out the box = AWFUL... After calbration = AMAZING
When I first took it out of the box and powered it on I was shocked at the picture. It looked awful UNTIL I read the other reviews about it being properly calibrated. So after tinkering around for what seemed hours I managed to get these setting based on Football and regular TV viewing:
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 18
Contrast: 80
Brightness: 40
Sharpness: 20
Color: 80
Tint: G/R 58/44
Under advanced setting;
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
Black Tone: Darker
Picture tone: Cool
Film Mode: Off
Sound Mode: Movie"
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-60Hz/dp/B0071O4ETQ
$1000 - The best ones for that price on the market currently is either a 50 or a 55 inch Samsung 6350 series. They cost $947 or $1040 respectively. They have great specs, even better reviews and are gorgeous in person. If you set it up correctly, its picture quality is pretty ridiculous for this price range, it makes me wonder why people ever buy way more expensive TVs.
Another option would be the just released two weeks ago 50 inch Vizio P series. It is the best cheap 4K tv on the market now. That being said, the Samsung above is better in every measurable way except for resolution. Since, there wont be much 4K content for a few more years and 4K is worthless unless you plan to sit really close to it (<5ft for a 50 inch). I would go with the Samsung and wait till my next TV to go 4K (or fingers crossed OLED).
If you want bigger, I would go with the 60 inch LG 5900 series for $929. Again not as nice as the Samsung, but a really good TV for the price. One problem though is the stand is weird and you'd need to either mount it or own something wide to put it on.
Under $300 - This is actually a booming market these days, there are a lot of good options depending on what your needs are. The best two sets available are the 32 inch LG 5600 series for $279 and the 32 inch Samsung 5000 series for $297. The one caveat is that neither of these are smart TVs, if you need smart features I would go with the $298 Vizio M322. Or you could go with the LG and buy a Chromecast or Roku.
Personally I recently bought the $348 Samsung 5500 series for my bedroom and its the nicest small TV I've ever had. It works great as a second monitor (although any of these should).
A big factor for me was input lag (key in FPS/fighting games). You can sort monitors/tvs by input lag here (lower is better)
http://www.displaylag.com/
I have this and it works great. Not too expensive and pretty good as far as input lag.
Hey, if you're in New York, I can let you have my 32 inch Samsung for 180, here's the model
Samsung UN32EH5000 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3IEHub0PB3HMM
hopefully this doesnt get washed away in the thousand other comments
i am looking for a monitor/tv to buy. i think i want to get a 32" LED backlit. there arent many monitors that size, so i was looking at this tv. also for reference this is my prospective build. it isnt final yet though, but is getting there
so my question is will the tv be able to display the framerates that my gpu is producing? the tv is 60Hz, so 60 frames per second. ive seen some benchmarks of my gpu and in some games the framerates will exceed 60 fps. so am i right in the fact that my tv would then become a bottleneck of my gpu? should i only be looking at 120Hz tv's in order to avoid this bottleneck?
I was given an old gaming pc and it works great for me. However, there isn't really room in my living room, where it needs to be, for another monitor.
I have an old CRT tv however and was thinking about replacing it with something I can hook this gaming rig up to.
I know that input lag is a problem but displaylag.com gives the Samsung UN40EH5300 a pretty good rating for input lag, 26ms.
I was also looking at maybe the (Samsung UN32EH5000)[http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1213OFN7UDEK&amp;coliid=IDI7TM2N3FN6V&amp;psc=1] but can find no input lag rating for it.
Is this a completely crazy idea? I also need to use an adapter to plug the pc (dvi) into the tv (hdmi)
Edit: To clarify this computer has two GeForce 9800 GTX+ cards.
Thanks for looking I appreciate it I was looking too and found this one on amazon what do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0071O4ETQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Found this model of Samsung used in your price range. Has very good reviews. (:
If not this one, I would go check out your local Walmart. They often run specials on TV's that have been used as displays. My brother-in-law got one incredibly cheap, and it was a name brand like you are looking for!
And I really like surprises. (:
Where do you plan on using it, exactly? Samsung makes a nice 32 inch 1080p LED for under $400. It doesn't look great out of the box, but after some fiddling around with the settings it's beautiful. Here it is, by the way.
Blackout fabric refers to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Carls-Blackout-Projector-Material-66x110-inch/dp/B007KA07YM
My first screen was a piece of white rosebrand blackout cloth which I then painted. It served me well.
Sure, let me know if there's anything specific you want to know.
Receiver
Front speakers
Mounts
Center
Surround speakers
Mounts
Subwoofer
Projector
Projector screen material (DIY Carl's blackout cloth)
I have a windows 10 PC hooked up to the receiver which runs the OpenPHT plex client. Then I have a separate plex server
I've used this too:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_QFOGzbZEHDWHB
Specifically made for projector stuff, what type of event are you doing? Is it at night?
Carl's Blackout Cloth, DIY Projector Screen, Raw Material/Fabric, 66x110-inch, Matte White, 16:9/1.0
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KA07YM/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8 This looks like a promising product. You could roll it like you described and maybe put hooks on the bottom corner to stretch it when you are using it to help keep it smooth.
You always get this ..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KA07YM?keywords=projector%20cloth&amp;qid=1451370457&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
Worth the $40.
Or try this or maybe look into Nvidia shield TV
I have no first hand experience with these, but this is what I am considering:
Less expensive version:
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408895082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=WIRELess+hdmi
More expensive version:
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS550/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408895082&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=WIRELess+hdmi
Best way I can think of would be to use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS550/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412713259&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=NPCS550
with a couple of phone charger batteries to power both transmitter and receiver, attached to an LCD so you can view what the camera is doing.
>What you're essentially looking for is VoIP -Video Over IP. It's not consumer grade yet for good quality. Enterprise or data center - yes. But for live A/V, no.
Whelp, that pretty much sums that up. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.
On another idea, what do you think about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Projector-NPCS549/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496783607&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=wireless%2Bhdmi%2Btransmitter&amp;th=1
It will definitely be within the hundred feet, then if I grabbed a camera with an HDMI out I could eliminate the laptop altogether?
Edit: Just need video too, no audio.
Interesting idea! I would imagine the Nyrius Aries Pro Wireless HDMI Transmitter might work, but it's a bit expensive to achieve this purpose – even if it did.
NYRIUS Wireless HDMI
You can do wireless displays, but its not really very good and expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Wireless-Transmitter-Projector-NPCS600/dp/B0092T3E3A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0092T3E3A&amp;pd_rd_r=95Y2GH4C6AP9E92RPC57&amp;pd_rd_w=jkkEU&amp;pd_rd_wg=W9qk8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=95Y2GH4C6AP9E92RPC57&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=socialtech109-20&amp;linkId=2be7253b298c8a5714478346b5be2842
> Lastly, are there any modern inverted itx boards out there?
What? Inverted? idk what u mean.
And why not just buy a laptop? Its easier and better in every way
I was looking into the Nyrius ARIES Pro Digital Wireless HDMI Transmitter and Receiver System
Anyone has personal feedback on how well it works?
Hi David - there's an [inexpensive but reliable zero latency HDMI receiver/transmitter you can buy for $250] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092T3E3A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0092T3E3A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) - but its range is limited to 160 feet through walls. If you can get clear line of sight, and reduce your range a little, this may be an easy and relatively inexpensive solution.
Good luck!
Bill
I think this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092T3E3A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B0092T3E3A&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=fooisabea-20 might help as the range is 160 feet.
Samsung UN22F5000 22-Inch 1080p 60Hz Slim LED HDTV (2013 Model)
Here is a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN22F5000-22-Inch-1080p-Model/dp/B00BCGRX9M
Thanks!
Hey guys, do I want to use this extra TV as a second monitor: Samsung UN22F5000 22-Inch 1080p 60Hz Slim LED HDTV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BCGRX9M/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8
Can anyone recommend me a stand so I could use it vertically?
Realistically, I've been saving up for this ice cream maker so I can use it during the summer. It's a great cold treat to bring to parties on a hot day and everyone loved it when I brought ice cream or sorbet over.
Unrealistically, I've told myself that I've been saving up for this tv, which has been hiding on a private wishlist category for a while. The sound on my tv has been konking out and it would be really great if I could pull the funds together to get a new one, but its not very likely for the time being
Saving private Ryan
> Dell S2316H
The thread you linked me won't open. I think if I were to choose between the options I would lean on the s2415h. Do you think that the 2316H is better?
What about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN22F5000-22-Inch-1080p-Model/dp/B00BCGRX9M/ref=sr_1_16?s=tv&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1437955390&amp;sr=1-16&amp;refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A1232879011%2Cp_89%3ASamsung%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A7688789011%2Cp_36%3A8589204011
Please, prove your point by showing me a single smart phone with anything longer than a 3 year warranty. Or find anything longer than a 2 year warranty that doesn't force you to pay additional fee to get that warranty).
EDIT: Hell, a Samsung LCD television only has a 1 year warranty. Are you suggesting that we shouldn't complain when our LCD television suddenly breaks in 2 years?
No problem for the wall of text :) I would like to look into a decent headset however I tend to go threw headsets pretty fast so I usually just get about a $60 headset, currently have a turtle beach headset for the mic and a Sennheiser for when I'm not talking to people.
As for the monitors the plan was to get something along the lines of this and eventually get a second one as well. Thanks for all the help though!
>Go ahead and try and find a 22 1080p tv, not a monitor, a tv.
Not to be a jerk but searching there were a bunch of 22 inch 1080p tvs. Here is a decently rated one from samsung. I completely agree that at that size you can't tell the different unless you are standing inches away.
How about this Samsung 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz Slim LED HDTV - $ 367 ,Usual price - $ 400 and at its lowest price right now!
Depending on what size you're looking for, both of these are sub-$200, 1080p, and have hdmi inputs. I have one quite similar to the samsung I linked.
Samsung ($186)
Vizio ($178)
Of the two, I'd go with the samsung.
Just a 22" for my bedroom. I only have an old SD CRT that's doing that thing where lines form on the top of it and whenever anything goes over the top of the screen it looks like it's folded over...
It's this one.
Getting a 4k option would certainly be quite expensive, and they tend to be larger-sized TVs than what you need. Something like the Samsung UN22F5000 is a pretty good choice for a TV/monitor that won't break the bank at $167.
Don't fret. You can always buy something like this
For question 1, something like a Digital TV Converter Box maybe?
The Mediasonic HW-150PVR HomeWorx box supposedly has a firmware update available (upon request?) that enables it to record unencrypted cable TV.
The Viewtv At-163 box has this note: "While this device DOES have full QAM/Cable capability, it is NOT currently officially supported due to incompatibility issues with some cable providers."
Either one is cheap enough that it might be pretty low-risk for you to just try it out, even if your signal becomes encrypted in the not-too-distant future.
Just found these on Amazon, no idea if they would do what you want, just something to look at:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-HW-150PVR-HomeWorx-Converter-Recording/dp/B00I2ZBD1U
http://www.amazon.com/Viewtv-Converter-Recording-Function-Composite/dp/B00GGVPKKC
Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.
I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.
I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.
My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.
This probably only has an RF antenna input. First step is to convert the HDMI out of your laptop or Firestick to composite video/audio. This gadget should do the trick and it has a zoom button, which I've found is useful when streaming old TV programs from my Firestick to my vintage TVs.
The second step is to convert that composite video to an RF frequency that your TV can tune in. The cheaper ones use channel 3 and 4, but I've had good luck with agile modulators like this one. This will let you modulate your composite A/V signal onto any channel you like.
If you wanted to get super fancy, you could get several of those "agile" RF modulators, set them to different channels, and combine the RF outputs using a regular RF splitter, then connect you're laptop, Firestick, and maybe a couple off-air ATSC demodulators tuned to classic channels.
Since this is a portable set, you might not want an RF cable pinning you down, so you could look into getting an ultra low power RF transmitter and tune it to whatever channel you want. You'll still need the HDMI to Analog composite converter I linked to above, but you wouldn't need the RF modulator. The transmitter I linked to should get you coverage within you're house and maybe your yard, depending on the transmitter's antenna and placement within your house.
I mean one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Viewtv-Converter-Recording-Function-Composite/dp/B00GGVPKKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426128943&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hd+receiver
Some possibilities with some examples:
I recently purchased a Nobsounds TPA3116 but have no idea what power supply to use with it. None of the various adaptors around my house fit it. Does anyone have any specific suggestions (with links)? Amazon has a "customers also bought..." suggestion, but it's 24v6a, when I've read recommendations to use lower ampage.
Recently I got an amplifier like this ($20 on AliExpress). Just look for "Breeze audio 50w amplifier"
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=50w+amplifier+breeze+audio&qid=1569576048&s=gateway&sr=8-2
You can get them for a bit cheaper off of eBay or AliExpress. My impression so far from a couple weeks of usage is that sounds great for the price- it drives my vintage Kenwood speakers really well. It requires a separate power supply, but if you have an old laptop charger that outputs at least 20v it'll work fine
You could get powered speakers that have both optical and bluetooth inputs - like these:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B0719C132V/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550988904&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+speakers
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Your TV likely has optical out - even if it doesn't you can use analog out. If your computer can output via bluetooth, then both inputs would be digital. There's also powered speakers that accept a USB connection.
&#x200B;
Problem with powered speakers is that it's hard to set up a sub. If you wanted to go with a sub as well, you could get this:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK
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And run the low frequencies to the sub and rest to the mains.
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If you want to run a separate amp, I have heard that the TPA311X series class D amplifier chips sound good. See: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M
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Then run speaker level output to your sub, and from your sub back to your mains. You could use an RCA switcher to control inputs to the amp. Like:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/Panlong-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Consoles/B00KXVBB3Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550989665&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+switch+box
&#x200B;
(You won't need the video connections).
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What are would be some good amp recommendations?
SMSL SA-36A(see that thrown around lot)
SMSL SA-36A Pro 20WPC TPA3118D2 Digital Amplifier AMP 12V Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YcUzCbJ6BSNBN
Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2bUzCbBAGW3Y1
Nobsound Mini TPA3116 Audio HIFI 2.0 Channel Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qdUzCb79JSKGY
As others have said, for $30... you'd just be wasting your money. The Dayton / Edifier recommendations really are your best bet and the absolute cheapest you'd want to go.... new.
If you can live with headphones for now, make a habit of checking used markets for bookshelf speakers! Decent speakers often pop up for ridiculous prices (I've snagged a pair of budget bookshelves for under $10 in the past, which retailed for around $140). Pair the best $20 bookshelf speakers you can find with a $30 class-D amplifier and an old laptop power supply (free), and you've got a decent system for $50 (or less, if you find really cheap speakers).
I purchased this little amp, it has worked fine and will work for these speakers. It's on the cheaper side and doesn't have any optical or usb. If you want to spend a bit more you can get this one that has more connection options. I only use mine as computer speakers so don't need anything more. There are many other little amps in between, I'm no expert on them, you can try /r/audiophile or /r/headphones for more info, also /r/zeos .
If you have / can find a 17-22V laptop power supply you could try this ($40, no power supply included):
https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-TPA3116-Channel-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B00WTOAC1M/
It's a 5.5* 2.1mm connector, looks exactly like the one on my Dell laptop 19V power supply. (To get the full power from the amp, use something closer to the high end of the voltage. See the "Product Description" for specs on how the power supply voltage affects the amplifier power. People do use 12V, because there are lots of them around, but the watts per channel will be reduced.)
The power also depends on the amps - you'd need a 4-5 amp power supply. (Total watts = volts x amps, with some efficiency loss as it runs though the amp; that will be the constraint on the total output power in both channels, total. Eg, a power supply with 19 volts x 4 amps / 2 channels = 38 watts per channel at 100% efficiency, a little less in the real world.)
Don't know anything about it other than what's on the web, but AFAICT they use decent components. The TPA3116D2 chip is a good one.
The Amazon page above has some alternatives in the comparison section.
And buying through Amazon has some advantages, if you find it's not as advertised.
Starting to jump down this rabbit hole of audiophilism (is that even a word?) Looking to replace my AIWA CX-NA202 from the 90s.
Was going to just settle for an edifier r1850db but with many hours of research it seems that a passive set up may be the way to go?
The first passive setup I was going to attempt to try was the -
Nobsound Mini TPA3116
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=ADPE7GPX91ORE&amp;psc=1
Micca MB42X
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7H8GG2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS&amp;psc=1
Which puts me under ~$150
But I have been hearing people just recommending an AVR, which I have landed on the Denon x1400 or x2400 which I may be able to pick up used for ~$200. Should I pair this with a Micca MB42X? Or are their other speakers that would work better with this?
Budget and currency - Under $300, USD
In which country are you located - USA
Where can you buy from - Amazon.com
What you want to use it for (music, movies, games, all of the above, etc) - All of the above, this will be a setup for my computer.
On a desk or in a room (or both) - On a desk in my room
How big of a space and how loud - Approximately a 12 feet x 12 feet room, not too loud and don't need much bass for now (still want the path to add a sub thou).
Thanks all in advance!
These are the speakers
and no I ran the speaker wire through the attic and down to the Amplifier in my media closet. The CCA is plugged into the amp.
I have the original one of these, gray. I have an old nook color tablet running pandora hooked up to it with a couple of pioneer bookshelf speakers and an old sony active sub. Not very loud but pretty good quality. Here's an 40usd 50+50W one based on the tpa3116: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WTOAC1M
Your guide is awesome, but I have kind of a special use case that I need advice on. I want a 5.1 setup, that uses my PC as a reciever (my motherboard has outputs for a full 7.1 setup), and is good for both gaming at my desk and listening to music/watching movies across the room on my bed.
The issue with my PC as a reciever is that it doesn't output enough power for some speakers. Right now, my GF's parents gifted a Sony 5.1 setup, but the reciever sounded terrible in my opinion, which is why I want to use my PC. L/R output loud enough for now with these speakers, but center/sub and RL/RR are super quiet. I have a Lepai 2024 as a stop-gap to get use out of my center/sub, which works ok, except that the bass sounds muddy, which I've read (I don't know) is an issue with the cheap amp.
I want to upgrade all around. I'm not an audiophile, so I don't want to spend crazy amounts, but I notice if it sounds like trash. I was thinking Micca MB24X for L/R, mounted on the wall above my monitor, and matching center placed underneath my monitor, the Dayton 800 or 1000 for the sub, and the $70 Sound Appeal for rears. To power it all, I was going to use amps. Somewhere on Reddit, someone was recommending this $40 amp, that supposedly has much better bass the the current Lepai I have and is cheaper than the SMSL 36 that's currently at $51.99 on amazon. Am I being stupid? Should I just get a reciever? I just don't want to drop $200 right now, I could buy one piece at a time doing it this way, but it does seem like a waste.
I have the second generation Scarlett solo.
Ive got a pair of Sony speakers I took form an old cassette CD and radio. Cassette and CD motors don't work anymore but I think everything else works if that helps.
The amp is [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTOAC1M/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE already hitting 1500 on sales
It's just a screenshot of my amazon list.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARRCHSS/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3LNCDR43M4E8H&amp;colid=1JRBROJJM7MWB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5TFLSE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1W9P71YZ3GM1Y&amp;colid=1JRBROJJM7MWB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZFKFI9/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1RLNRACE8UIHV&amp;colid=1JRBROJJM7MWB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7XWFYX/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IW4TL4Y1BDQN1&amp;colid=1JRBROJJM7MWB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG311P8/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I13MQWWMQBSS3B&amp;colid=1JRBROJJM7MWB
His TV is like this one, not sure if this is the exact model number he has But it’s close
https://www.samsung.com/us/televisions-home-theater/tvs/uhd-tvs/55--nu7100-smart-4k-uhd-tv-un55nu7100fxza/
Here is mine
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE
You can see the top link, that TV is clearly made to make people believe it is better than what’s in the box. Your regular consumer is going to see 4K and think it’s amazing without looking into the specs to much.
I'm not sure about the US but it's still around everywhere here in the UK, i just got mine about 6 weeks ago.
I have the UK equivalent of this one
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE
In the UK the model number is UE55KS7000. I mainly got it because of how highly recommended it is by everyone online, and I can vouch for it's quality, it is absolutely amazing.
Ah ok, I was thinking this model:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KS8000-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFLSE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5TFLSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V3xRCbYFQMRRJ
I messed up originally, I'm certain this is it. Says 120hz so I'll edit my comment above
Really? The lowest I found the KS8000 at Amazon was $1600
Unless you buy your stuff used? But yeah, I do pay sticker price, as I don't always have the funds available for when stuff goes on sale. Rather get it, than not have it at all.
I also don't buy in physical stores, I shop exclusively Amazon and other online etailers.
you should buy this. 45% off now.
https://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B01C5TFLSE/r10-15-20/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478354676&amp;sr=8-2-spell&amp;keywords=sasmung+ks8000
Not sure if this is available in Norway but if you can grab one you won't regret it.
It's last years model but amazing for 4K gaming with really low input lag around 20m/s which is pretty good for a 55"TVs
Samsung ks8000
Not sure if it helps but here it is.
Television: Samsung UN65KS8000 65-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2016 Model)
ARC Devices: J-Tech Digital ® HDMI to HDMI ARC Adapter with CEC and Optical TOSLINK Audio Output purchased and didn't work
ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor Support Ultra HD contacted seller, said it wouldn't change volume from commands
Goronya HDMI to HDMI ARC Adapter with CEC and Optical TOSLINK Audio Output contacted seller, said it wouldn't change volume from commands
/u/Z3ROWOLF1 , (Or anyone else), can you please explain to me why my TV and receiver are not giving me full 4k?
I'm pissed off because I thought I had "future proofed" myself for the X1X, but now I'm having issues.
My TV: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFNSM/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=ya_aw_od_pi
My receiver: Onkyo TX-RZ810
Thank you so much for considering a response.
I'm very close to upgrading from 1080p to 4K w/HDR. I've been looking at the
Samsung KS8000 or the
Samsung KS9000. I do have a question though. Do you feel or see any input lag when playing PS4 games?
I mean I looked it up in amazon, here.
https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFNSM?th=1
Good luck to all! This is an incredibly generous giveaway, thank you so much just for the chance to participate!
https://www.amazon.ca/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01C5TFNSM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478245149&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=samsung+tv+4k
That is what I would like if by some miracle my name is chosen :P
Everyone I see reccomends the ks8000, which is a great panel for 4k, and can represent the widest amount of colors for HDR. I don't really know the technical details, but some other HDR TVs cannot represent as many colors.
Thanks. Actually the Samsung at 65 inches was cheaper than the LG at 55 inches. I went with the samsung (it's on sale now if you're interested - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5TFNSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 )
I will likely have both the ps pro and the xbox, but we'll see. I just wanted to make sure i didn't make the wrong decision. I really appreciate the comment and help!
Here is the link. What do you think, refurb ks on amazon vs new p65?
Here is the mobile version of your link
I'm actually looking into this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C5TFNSM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479672224&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=ks+8000&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51D-hJpRB2L&amp;ref=plSrch
65" was down to $1500 recently around black friday...this website rocks for checking all-time price history on all Amazon stuff:
http://camelcamelcamel.com/Samsung-UN65KS8000-65-Inch-Ultra-Smart/product/B01C5TFNSM?context=browse
And Best Buy will price match if "shipped and sold" by Amazon...you just show them the item on your phone. Pretty awesome.
I'm waiting for super bowl or post-super bowl when hopefully the 65" comes back down to $1500 or less.
1TB Roamio OTA for $400 on amazon, includes lifetime service
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DR4T73Q/ref=twister_B01F8DPALM?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Why do you have a product designed to record tv but do not make it ready out of the box by providing a built in harddrive? It seems deceptive in nature to not have all the requirements built into the device, even if it becomes a 3rd selling option to have one without and one with the hdd.
If I am looking for a product simple enough for my parents to watch live tv and recorded shows then the TiVo is the much simpler choice.
https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Roamio-OTA-DVR-Compatible/dp/B01DR4T73Q?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=roamio%201TB&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;linkId=7faa79ffb38b3dc38fdb475cf0dd1268&amp;qid=1462309743&amp;ref_=as_li_ss_tl&amp;sr=8-3&amp;tag=grounreaso-20
I want to use a tablo but it looks to cumbersome and messy to have the extra box for a harddrive.
Yeah as others have obviously pointed out it is spun in the best interest of Tablo.
The true upfront cost is definitely higher with Tablo. In the given scenario if you required multiroom streaming (2 devices) + remote access (stream) then yes going with Tablo may save you money in the long run. However, IMO Tivo still probably provides a much better and reliable service overall and has a long established name in the industry to back it up.
For most new or average cord cutters, I highly question how much does multi-room / remote streaming appeal to them. I can see multi-room being more of a desire but for this you just need a Tivo Mini w/o the Stream.
How about a comparison of true upfront cost to a basic cord cutter?
Tablo Basic Upfront Cost:
Tivo Basic Upfront cost:
I think Tablo definitely needs to adjust it's price model on their lines in order to stay competitive. The new price change and lifetime model by Tivo completely changes the playing field for cord cutters.
I personally as a consumer wouldn't consider a Tablo unless the price was $350 for 4-Tuner with Lifetime (even at this price keep in mind for 1 TV, it costs more after adding hard drive and streaming device vs Tivo).
I know before the permanent price change, Tivo used to do limited offer sales on their products where they include the lifetime with the device for a discounted price. I mean you could do the same sale model. Regular price $300 Tablo 4-Tuner. Sale $250 Tablo 4-Tuner, save extra $350 Tablo 4-Tuner w/ Lifetime included. etc. etc.
Hmm, I had to Double check that, yeah there are no monthly fees on this particular model.
https://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Roamio-OTA-DVR-Streaming/dp/B01DR4T73Q
So with the roku you download a tablo app and access recordings from there?
I cut the cord eight years ago, and I am never going back to cable.
The OTA options are great, IMO. If I want to veg out and watch TV (i.e. not a movie I own or Netflix or Amazon Prime or something recorded on Tivo), there is always something on. Regular network shows, PBS stuff, PBS UK (which is sort of a BBC America but with slightly older shows), foreign programming, old favorite TV shows and game shows, movies, etc.
Of course, it helps that I have a 4-tuner Tivo. Amazon is selling the Tivo OTA with a lifetime subscription (i.e. no monthly fees) for only $369. The Tivo has great apps for Netflix, Amazon Prime, HBO Go, Hulu, Plex, and others. And it's super easy to swap the standard hard drive with something larger (I put a 3GB in mine).
I have two TiVo units in my apartment and I love them. I have a Roamio and a Bolt. The Roamio is currently on sale on Amazon.
I haven't used the Tablo but using the TiVo is probably most like a dvr you would get from a tv provider with an easy to use interface and great channel guide.
Which model? Here's the Amazon one and Here's the Best Buy one. They're both the same model (UN55KU6300FXZA), aren't they? Sorry, I'm confused!
[One of the best deals I've seen so far. Samsung 55" 4K Smart TV]
(https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN55KU6300-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01E69WHP6)
Usually goes for around $820, for Prime members during the sale at $549. Perfect TV to watch "Saving Private Ryan" on, right? (Is that how this works?) Anyways, I'll keep an eye out for when it goes on sale and update with more info here!
Just bought a 2016 model samsung 6300 55". The major difference is the HDR capability from last years model hes is the link
Well.. Vizio 55" M-Series and
Samsung UN55KU6300 are both HDR capable and well under $1k.
Yeah it is mainly because the larger screen. This is the model which I got.
Be sure to price match.
I figured this out from when I was researching TVs. A true 120Hz tv can give true 24fps because 120/24=5. A 60Hz tv will have to do some 3:2 pulldown magic because 60/24=2.5. That's where you get your judder. That's why you're seeing some semi conflicting and/or confusion about being able to transmit/receive/play 24fps.
Now you have to be careful because some TVs will be advertised as 120Hz Motionsense or 120Hz Truemotion, etc. That's a 60Hz tv with software magic to give an effective 120Hz from what I understand. And actual refresh rates aren't always easy to find for all TVs.
Side note Edit: I ended up with this one and absolutely love it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E69WHP6?tag=rtings-tv-bs10b-20&amp;ie=UTF8
I'd seriously consider 4k even if you don't have any 4k media.
Edit 2: Prime example of what I was talking about with the refresh rate. Look at the refresh rate spec. "120CMR (Effective)". 60Hz tv with "Clear Motion Rate" to give a 120Hz effective rate. The true 120Hz tvs we're too pricey for me. I experience no judder when playing 24fps media. I have the motion rate stuff turned either off or way down depending on what I'm watching. It gives sitcoms a "soap opera" look.
According to camelcamelcamel, this product has not been in stock with Amazon for the last couple days.
Pulled from amazon:
Dimensions (W x H x D): TV without stand: 57" x 32.8" x 2.4", TV with stand: 57" x 35.3" x 10.3"
amazon
The Sony XBR65X900E has dropped to $1498.00 on Amazon. Sony XBR65X900E 65-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZF81NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PZzdAb6RGPZB2
Sony XBR65X900E 65-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart LED TV (2017 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZF81NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UypdAbJWZCWDA
I was looking into buying this on Best Buy on BF but it’s $1500 on Amazon right now but not through Amazon . The store that’s selling it seems to have good ratings so I’m thinking of shooting the trigger. Do you guys think there’s any risk involved ? The store is Video and Audio Center if anyone has had any previous experience with them.
Amazon put it up for 1500, Best buy said they will price match puts it up for 1499 -> Amazon current price https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XBR55X900E-55-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B01MZF81NS?th=1
I second the Sony XBR65X900E.
I know on iOS, the Amazon app lets you use VR to visualize the screen size of the tv in your room (just print their marker or use a dollar bill). Not sure if it works on Android or with CAD, but I just see the listing for the X900E, choose screen size, and click the text under the photos.
The Sony XBR65X900E seems like a great model, lowest price its ever been currently, and right at my max budget.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZF81NS?tag=rtings-tv-sm00a-20&amp;ie=UTF8
This may not be as relevant but I figured I'd chime in. Last year I was just shy of pulling the trigger on a 65 inch 850D, which was (I believe) around $1800 pre black-friday. On BF it dropped to $1300 for a $500 savings. I figured maybe I should wait until right before the superbowl because TV's go on crazy sales then too and if it went down to the $1300 price again, I'd buy it.
So around January 20th 2017 I check prices again and it was actually only dropped to $1500 for a $200 savings. I was pissed. But in retrospect I'm glad I waited. Now, I'm keeping my eyes on the XBR65X900E, which is way better in comparison especially since the new systems will support 4k gaming.
Anyhow, the current price of the XBR65X900E (on BestBuy) is $1800 (dropped from $2500) for a $700 savings (According to the site). But since you saw it at $2k 2 months ago, and they are shaving $300 off now, I'd wager a guess that it will drop to $1500 for black friday for a $500 savings from the price you saw it at....
This may help you: Check out the price chart on camel camel camel
I know it only gives you AMAZON prices; however, its a good indication of where the TV started out at ($2500) and price drop intervals. It looks like every 3 months now the TV will drop in price so Black Friday should be your best bet.
You can get the Pioneer Andrew Jones bookshelf speakers for $99-https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521475785&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=andrew+jones+speakers and then a entry level Yamaha refurb HT Reciever from Accessories for Less via Amazon for $199-https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521475886&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Yamaha+RX-V383BL...the Yamaha's have nice simulated surround sound via 2 speakers...then you can add more speakers and a sub little by little...
I've used Yamaha receivers for a while, they are great. The newest budget model is the RX-V383BL:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/
One option by browsing amazon Canadian :
https://www.amazon.ca/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/
$280
https://www.amazon.ca/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/
$325
https://www.amazon.ca/Fluance-Surround-Including-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B07C4KBN1N/
$400
With stands, wire, etc. this will exceed your budget by ~$100 though.
Hello Proxpi! Thank you for responding.
I have updated some images to show the potential location of the TV.
https://imgur.com/a/uFRWDYf
1: Yes I would like to have all devices (Surround Sound system & Xbox one) in the AV Closet.
I have attached some more pictures. You can see in the image where the TV mount is. The Cabinet (in the second picture) is just to the left of the TV. The speaker wires from the cabinet (You can see in the top right hand corner) run about 15 feet to two exposed wires behind the location where the picture was taken and two run to the two {top right and top left of the tv area).
For video... I think I did something foolish... I wanted to "Future Proof" my video, so instead of running HDMI thought the walls, I fished 4 Cat6 E wires and had to buy a $50 dollar converter.
For the AUDIO I currently have a SONY 5.1 surround sound system that was 300 bucks about 4 years ago. It has a build in DVD/BlueRay player. I was planning on wiring that up to the speaker outlets in the cabinet, but I don't think it can handle all 12 speakers... what do yo think?
I was thinking I may need to purchase something like this. What do you think?
My dad also gave me this pre amplifier Rotel RC 972.... do you think I can use it at all? I tried hooking it up but it was really quiet.
I ran into the same issue. I purchased this and mounted it in the rafters of my garage and works like a charm!
Vansky Outdoor 150 Mile Motorized 360 Degree Rotation OTA Amplified HD TV Antenna for 2 TVs Support - UHF/VHF/1080P Channels Wireless Remote Control - 32.8' Coax Cable (VS-OTX01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RH9HDbGMZ8EJD
The remote to a TV antenna like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Outdoor-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P
You can buy them separately, too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRR4UHM/ref=dp_cerb_1
Adding: "instruction light" because this will be posted again, and I can search for this answer easier.
Thanks for the reply. This is what we're considering. Thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Outdoor-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P
This one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GohTAbJXN37KR
I can pick it up around University and Merle Hay using this antenna about 8 feet off the ground with this tuner, but is has be aimed perfectly to get it reliably. There are so many factors that come in to play beyond just the antenna, but that's my .02
This is the one I bought. Its mounted on my roof and pointed South East. I just want to watch Chiefs games.
I ran into the same issue with Apple TV, which isn't supported either. DISH/SlingTV/AirTV, if you're paying attention, I've been waiting two years for Apple TV support! What is taking so long? Sorry, had to get that out of my system.
Unless you really love the "smart" part of your Samsung TV, you could add a supported set-top box, or streaming stick. I've been pleased with our Roku Ultra. The remote for the Ultra, and for the Roku Streaming Stick+ as well, can control the TV's power and volume, which enables a single-remote solution. The remote for Amazon's new Fire TV Stick 4K also controls TV power and volume.
Here's the models referenced in the post above:
30$ express ( cheapest)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075XN1NZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524022340&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=roku+express&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31V0CkvZQnL&amp;ref=plSrch
50$ streaming stick ( version I have)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075XN5L53/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524022416&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=roku+streaming+stick&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31ORC5nJj7L&amp;ref=plSrch
64$ streaming stick +(4k enabled) same as stick with 4k
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075XLWML4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524022439&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=roku+streaming+stick&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=313XSCJk0CL&amp;ref=plSrch
I would recommend the streaming stick but the basic version would work fine.
Roku Stick Plus comes with IR remote that will control the TV. I bought one for a customer who's just like your mom.
One I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XLWML4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just buy a used one for about $50
It would be 81$ for this Roku, for me.
Fluance has a 5.1 system for $500. Fluance offers a 30day home audition with free returns if you’re not satisfied.
This Klipsch system goes in out at Costco for $450 if you have Costco. Was on sale at Amazon a couple weeks ago for $500.
Otherwise, a lot of people go for the Micca MB42X series of speakers as their entry home theater. As for an entry sub to pair, either polk or monoprice. Or wait for a sale on BIC or Klipsch subs (new or used).
Appreciate the comment! Pendulum is swinging just a tad here from cheap to more expensive, but thoughts on this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779GRFWF/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=mattheavy-20&amp;linkId=f7c2adae90ab97f99eb56aa30fd8c95b&amp;language=en_US
Looking for a good audio system for my home office. I spend a lot of time playing video games and listening to Spotify and I’m done with my $30 2.1 system. A friend has some klipsch floor speakers that I like a lot but they’re out of my budget range which is around $600. I’m looking at Klipsch Black Reference Theater Pack 5.1 Surround Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779GRFWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QclvCb9AJ7690 or Klipsch RP-160M Bookshelf Speaker - Ebony (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RNZ6COS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yelvCbDJ2C4HV Does anyone have experience with either of these, or a suggestion for something else?
Probably this.
Yes, I do realize speakers aren't supposed to go on stands, except the center channel. However, these reference theater ones are compact. Klipsch Theater Speakers So they would have to go on a stand. I've been hitting up all the online venues but not really finding what I want or need. I also bought those atmos speakers Atmos so they would have to sit up high so I was looking for something with bookshelf
A small Speaker package like the Elac Cinema 5, Energy take classic, Klipsch HDT or reference, and some Sanus Satellite speaker stands. And a AVR from accessories4less.
Onkyo TXs383
elac Cinema 5
Sanus speaker stands
Klipsch reference pack
Klipsch HDT600
Sorry if this is already posted, I tried to post earlier today but kept getting a no connection message.
I posted earlier about an Atmos audio system I’m trying to build with a accumass 10 from Bose, and was told to stay away from Bose (which I have read many bad reviews on, but have a hand-me-down set that I’m not unhappy with). My price range is $800-$1100 and I am now looking at this system: Klipsch Black Reference Theater Pack 5.1 Surround Sound System
I plan on pairing these with my Sony str dn1080 AV receiver and my Bose 601 speakers to create a Dolby Atmos system. With the two Bose speakers as FR FL, then two of the supplied Klipsch speakers as SR SL, and the last two as my height speakers. It also comes with a sub which I currently do not have.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779GRFWF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RpcRCbG2FDEKJ
Any thoughts? I looked into the Jamo systems as well,but think I like the Klipsch better. The jamo 5.1 set with the additional Atmos speakers also run just about 1000 as well, but do not have a sub. my currentthought process is that my 601s are decent and if I purchased the Klipsch system now, I can buy a pair of their towers later and replace my 601s when I have a little bit more money.
this Jamo speaker kit. https://www.amazon.com/Jamo-Studio-809-HCS-BLK-Cinema/dp/B07JJYWL22
And the atmos speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJY71NB/ref=psdc_3236453011_t2_B07JJYWL22
Edit: my current system is two Bose 601s as my FL and FR, two Bose 100 as my SL and SR, and a Bose VCS10 as my center channel.
Suggestions for audiophile-quality speakers that I can put on my computer desk, and use both for listening in the room (while not at the computer) and for computer games when I'm sitting at that desk?
Willing to spend good money to get something really, really good, to keep for years and years. (My current equipment is a Klipsch Promedia 2.1 THX set that I bought 20 years ago, so by my logic I spent well under $10/year on that set.) I'm trying to target around $1,000 or so, but will push to $2,000 for something really impressive that is going to last me a long time. Beyond that I'm not sure my use in this room can justify it. I look at it as being cheaper to get something I won't want to replace.
They are allowed to be decently big but must fit on the desk or on a stand, can't do floor standing speakers in this room at all. Not because the room is particularly small, but because wall-adjacent floor space is all used by shelves and stuff.
5.1 would be great _IF_ it can be done well without sacrificing those really good mains for music. I care far more about musical performance than 5.1 and games performance. (I'm checking if there's a way to have my cake and eat it too.) My default if nothing looks promising with 5.1 is to get a nice solid stereo pair.
Has anyone used the Edifier S760D 5.1 setup? Would I be losing out on a lot in terms of musical performance with something like that, compared to the 2-channel recommendations I tend to see in that price range?
How much would it likely cost to put together a decent quality multi-channel analog-only amplifier to go with a set of smaller Klipsch speakers, maybe with main left and right upgraded to some nice RP-600's?
Do any other brands make high-end integrated 5.1 setups for computers? I expect nothing great to come from Logitech, but maybe they've improved while I wasn't looking? My searches seem to get abruptly cut short when I find the set I'm reading a review of is no longer made.
Looks like a fairly limited budget and your choices look like you have to go with some of the least expensive options. I think your speakers are the best set for doing this. My only change would be to go with a 7.2 capable receiver just in case you'd like to add Atmos or DTS:X height speakers in the future instead of needing to replace the receiver.
Refurbished AVR-X1400H for $290:
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx1400h/denon-avr-x1400h-7.2-ch-x-80-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
New AVR-X1500H for $300:
https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=avr-1400h&amp;qid=1571759643&amp;sr=8-2
Most people on a budget usually buy last year or older models, refurbished or new old stock versions of AVRs. You can look for discounts or sales for stock clearance for very cheap.
The AVR industry moves very slowly, and unless there are any new codecs or stuff launched, a 2016 AVR has the exact same capabilities as a 2019 model.
Like a 2017 Denon AVR-X1400h gets you 7.2 channels amp with Dolby Atmos support (5.1.2 setup), HEOS (wireless audio streaming), Bluetooth, Dolby Atmos and DTS:X decoding, Dolby Vision and HDR10 passthrough and 6 HDMI in ports. As for room correction it comes with "Audyssey Multeq XT", which is among the best room correction algorithms out there.
If you don't care about Dolby Vision passthrough you can even go older with the 2016 AVR-X1300W.
Last years 2018 AVR-X1500h goes for $300 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Receivers-Component-Receiver-AVRX1500/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S so I'd expect the older ones to be even cheaper if you can get your hands on them.
Ask more on /r/hometheater they will surely offer you very good links to great deals.
PS: Though remember that with an AVR you can't use powered speakers or soundbars, must be passive speakers only.
Just picked up the KEF Q150's and the monoprice monolith stands.
I ordered this Denon AVR-X1500H receiver, but since I doubt I'll add more than a center channel (in an apt, so no sub and limited space), I'm wondering if it'd be better to get a different integrated amp in the $300-$500 range instead. Any recommendations? My use case is mixed between music, movies/shows, and gaming.
Also, anyone know if the Audyssey microphone comes standard in the Denon's box? I don't see it advertised on Amazon, but crutchfield has it for the same price with the microphone
Thanks!
What would a good receiver be to pair with these that I'd be able to expand on later?
After doing some more research, this seems to be the current best budget AR Denon AVR-X1500H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVJ4Y3S/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_ls
This would but me at my budget; what should my next step be later on? prioritize center channel or sub? 2.1 vs 3.0
Sounds like you would like a nice 2.1 setup that will sound better than your old stuff. 1.5 to 2k budget is very reasonable. Here is what I would look at.
AMP - Denon AVR-X1500H $300 or a Yamaha RX-V485 $400 - The Denon has Audyssey room correction to really get the most out of the speakers. The Yamaha is simple and easy to use.
Speakers - Choose one
Sub - Make things go boom!
For some reason the X1500H is the same price new right now as refurbished, which typically provides a longer warranty.
Denon X1500H - $299
> for 1/8 of the cost
You can get a 55" OLED for $1300, cheaper if you wait for a sale, so like 25-30% of the cost. Obviously still a big savings, but as the owner of an OLED TV, if you can afford it, my god is worth it. It's the biggest leap in screen tech since the first flat screen plasmas 15-20 years ago. The blacks are so fucking black that you think something is wrong with your TV the first time you see it, because you've been living your life tricking your eyes into thinking greys on displays are actually black.
This one but honestly I have no idea now which one I want. All I do on this tv is watch my Fire Stick, Netflix and the like, so I can probably get by with a cheaper tv.
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED55B8PUA-55-Inch-Ultra/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=lg+tv+oled+smart+tv+55&amp;qid=1565632611&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=lg+tv+ol&amp;sr=8-3
If money isn't a big issue, then imo this is the best ultrawide , best current 4K , best 1440p
LG Electronics OLED55B8PUA 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Smart OLED TV (2018 Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r5iDCb67YV0PH
Should be the first one to pop up in the us amazon store.
It depends on your grading space, but I would go with one of the LG OLED tv’s. I use a 55” C9. The B8 can be picked up for about $1200, depending on where you are.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRRYS1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLNNDb9M0TZ9J
You would need a some kind of Decklink and an SDI to HDMI converter. You would also need to calibrate it. Again, depending on where you are, you should hire someone to do this. It’s not an unreasonable cost and you only need to do it once or twice a year. It’s better to hire someone who knows what they’re doing rather than to spend a lot of money on equipment and attempt to figure it out yourself.
I've been looking at several, pretty good deals (except the last one, which is arguably the "best" one)
Is it me or did the Amazon listing just disappear? I had it open (was reading reviews), refreshed it, and now it's giving me an error... It's also saying out of stock on NV's site, weird.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YP9FBMM
Edit: The link is definitely dead and showing Amazon's oops error with the doggies, also out of stock at B&H. Had it been going in and out of stock and I just happened to catch it in stock earlier? (first time I even went looking for it) Still seems weird the Amazon page would disappear...
Showing near $300 on Amazon for the non-tube version.
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM/
If he's just going to game, how about this?
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YP9FBMM
https://www.amazon.ca/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM
It's on Amazon too.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YP9FBMM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-fYTDb1YXXXZG
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07YP94PBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_thYTDbJSQMN29
It's listed now!
&#x200B;
https://smile.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM/
Amazon link is active again but the item isn't currently available as of 6am EST.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YP9FBMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QYRTDbBCFBESY
Now available for purchase. Had some cash back bit it and ordered one. Will arrive by Friday.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YP9FBMM
not yet selling on amazon
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YP9FBMM
"The new SHIELD TV Pro, according to this listing, has 25% faster performance through a new NVIDIA Tegra X1+ chip. It has 3GB RAM, two USB 3.0 ports, 16GB internal storage, Dolby Vision-Atmos, 4K HDR, Chromecast 4K built-in,Bluetooth 5.0, 802.11ac WiFi, Gigabit ethernet, and a brand new remote."
US $199.99 , October 28 release date. link to Amazon page
Edit - amazon page is down now ? Maybe someone jumped the gun at amazon as There was no pres release from Nvidia ?
Finally coming up sooner than I thought...
https://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Shield-Streaming-Player-Performance/dp/B07YP9FBMM
You'll have to wait less than two weeks to put your hands on something new and shiny, so it seems 😄
50 inch 4k tvs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JK98NNQ/?ref=r4m_udw_tv_us_md
Have this TCL for a couple years now, absolutely no regrets. Sure it's not the same as a super upscale TV, but honestly I have never regretted my purchase at all. Pair it with a decent soundbar (this is what I have currently) and it's a great experience!
I'll try my hand at this.
Speakers - $815
https://www.fluance.com/signature-series-hi-fi-5-1-home-theater-speaker-system-with-bookshelf-speakers-walnut
AVR - $210
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs730h/denon-avr-s730h-7.2-ch-x-75-watts-a/v-receiver-w/heos/1.html
TV - $300
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ
You should have room to spare to get the cables you need as well.
$268
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=tcl+roku+tv&amp;qid=1566411224&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=tlc&amp;sr=8-3
Do you happen to know if that would work with this one? https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1
Thanks for the reply
https://www.amazon.com/TCL-50S425-inch-Smart-Roku/dp/B07JK98NNQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=TCL&qid=1556521574&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
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I have this and its great! :)
This is such horseshit.
>You’re paying more because of the Acoustic Sound Surface. Basically not needing a soundbar, and can hook a powered sub straight to the TV. The LG absolutely 100% needs external sound. That’s why.
The LG B8 is $1,500.
The A8F is $2,300.
For that $800 difference, you could get an insane sound bar, or a great sound bar and an A/V receiver. Hell, $800 would even cover a budget 5.1 system that's still going to be much better than a sound bar.
>Plus the Sony processor is 100 times better than the LG.
More absolute horse shit. The Sony processor is better, but not "100 times better". And if this is extreme hyperbole, it has no place in the same paragraph where you reference objective differences. The LG processor and upscaling is just fine. Is the Sony better? Yes. I own one, and I swear by it. Is it worth part of that $800 difference more over the LG? Hell no.
Identical overall rating from Rtings, and the Sony doesn't even score much higher in sound quality.
I'm in a similar situation as you by looking for a big screen to view my computer on. I am using this Samsung UN32EH5000 32-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kXfPub0JY8FDW
Which is on sale right now. I don't have issues seeing as I increased the text size and I sit a few feet away from it. I picked this because I will also use it as a tv and for my ps3. I have a r9 290 and i5 4440
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN32EH5000-32-Inch-1080p-120Hz/dp/B0071O4ETQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382497680&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+120hz+32
Im using this Yamaha receiver does it have an amplifier build in?
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V383BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B06XXR6JK3/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518988554&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=Yamaha+receiver
I think you will be totally fine, not knowing the surrounding area but here's what I use 55 miles from my stations:
https://www.amazon.com/Vansky-Outdoor-Motorized-Rotation-Amplified/dp/B071V7SV6P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539362237&sr=8-7&keywords=attic+antenna
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Others may have even better options, but I've had good luck with that one in my attic.
Vansky Outdoor 150 Mile Motorized... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V7SV6P?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038JE07O