(Part 2) Best beading & jewelry making crafts according to redditors

Exactly. I got one of these to carve nickels.

Silver polishing cloths will be fine. The chemical used won't damage the stone, they'll just take off the oxidation. Here's a quick link.

It won't brighten the silver up to a mirror finish, but depending on how long you've had this, you might consider getting the shank of the ring repolished at a jewelry store and the stone checked for any damage.

Hey everyone! I posted a few weeks ago with concerns about the cut of my moissanite stone - it was cloudy, dull, and had no fire.

I left the company name out of my original post because I wanted to keep things objective, but the stone was from C&C and I was very disappointed.

After I posted and got confirmation from you guys that something looked off, I called their customer support and they sent me a special cleaning cloth free of charge to remove any “film” or oil slick from the stone. Honestly, I wasn’t super impressed with this resolution and didn’t have high hopes it would works, but I tried to keep a positive attitude until the cloth arrived.

Well, it arrived yesterday and holy crap. This stone looks SO MUCH BETTER! There is actually fire and sparkles to the stone. I’m so happy, I can’t stop looking at it.

I’ve heard that other people have needed to clean a film off their stone, but didn’t think I would have that issue with a brand new stone. So, if you’re having issues with dullness in your moissanite I would recommend you give the sunshine cloth a try!

I have a very cramped back entry way and went looking on Pinterest for winter ideas. What a joke. A cramped entry way on Pinterest is apparently a mini mansion with a mud room. 🙄


These beads are fun, of course they require supervision! But it can be done year round and it’s great sensory play: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HSB7GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CYA5BbG1XZ894

here is a link for blank d20s then get some durable craft paints like this enamel paint and an engraving tool here. So what you have to do is paint the dice then engrave them, use another D20 for reference so you know which sides get which number. It'll be a bit more work but you will save a lot of money and I promise you once you buy an engraver you will use it for everything.

I totally voucher for using these. They come with loads in the pack and I change it out for a new section whenever the plastic starts to turn colors from getting dirty. My hands fluctuate so much throughout the year, between different activities (like cold day at work to doing hot yoga) or even within the normal progression of the day. I have found these to be fantastic and have no complaints. I'm only probably a 1/4 off, but when I tried to my wedding band in addition to the e ring without the plastic loops, it fit perfectly. I don't want to resize my e ring.

Unfortunately the exact one I bought on Amazon is out of stock but look for the same spiral loop. It gives you lots of customization for exactly how much space you need. Much better than the traditional plastic tube, or the metal crimped wire

Ring Size Adjuster with Jewelry Polishing Cloth,2 Sizes Fit for Any Rings,Clear Ring Sizer,Perfect for Loose Rings,Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBUZPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jZjYBb8DQST2X

u/SandraRosner has offered good advice on this issue.
I would go with clear silicone ring size adjuster, not metal ones. Here's acouple from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Anpro-Adjuster-Sizes-Clear-Resizer/dp/B073FDFLSF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540226182&sr=8-3&keywords=ring+size+adjuster


and


https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540226182&sr=8-4&keywords=ring+size+adjuster

20,000 Fuse Beads - 20 colors (5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ELT0FRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s the kit that I bought! Also I’ve used this website for any big pieces that I’ve made!

https://hobby-family.dk/Bead/perlerDesign.htm

Backers

I’ve found these to work really well on my uniform.

I purchased a Jeweler's Loupe after reading about identifying legit vs. counterfeit cards. There was an image and link in r/MagicTCG a while ago showing what a legit Mythic symbol looked like through one of these Loupes. It was pretty cool. I'll see if I can find the link.

I know what marbles are. The spheres in the gif aren't glass; they're colorless water marbles.

This is the least expensive method. You can spend hundreds of dollars for electronic devices designed for testing precious metals as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Platinum-Testing-Stone-Jewelers/dp/B000OVHWLK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Precious+metal+test+kit&qid=1573313307&sr=8-3

When I lost weight, I went on Amazon and bought this. it worked like a charm for me. I have three bands that aren't soldered together, so I just put it on the last band, and never had any issues.

Then of course, once you're ready, go have it sized!

Edit: I didn't see the part about the reason I made the choice I did...

I had gained weight, and also added a 3rd band, so having all 3 made it tight. I sized up, and they fit perfectly. I then lost weight, and because we were going to try to get pregnant again, it didn't make sense to pay $90/ring to get them resized. This was a quick, cheap solution for me, and I'm glad I did it the way I did.

Once I pop this kiddo out, and my swelling goes down/I lose more weight, I will get them resized again to fit..but, I'm guessing that I'm probably a year or more out from hitting my goal weight.

Unless I'm mistaken, the canvas is 1000 X 1000, so you'd need exactly 1 million beads. So, it would cost however much it costs to purchase 1 million beads. Also, you'd need the correct proportion of colors. I think there were ~16 colors (needs confirmation), and I'm sure someone clever at computering could figure out exactly how many of each color are in the final canvas for you.

As for time, I dunno. If you've done hama/perler bead art before, I'm sure you can do an estimate of how long and how many beads it took you to do certain pieces, and then just do the math to get to 1 million beads. For reference, if it took you 1 second to place each bead, and you worked nonstop without sleep, meals, or restroom breaks, it would take you about 11.5 days. If you limited yourself to 8-hour days, it would take you a little over a month. If it takes more like 6 seconds for each bead (probably more accurate), it would take you about half a year, nonstop for 8-hour days, no weekends. You still up for it?

EDIT: Here is one of the better Amazon deals I found for perler beads. You would need to buy 50 of these to get to 1 million beads, but in order to ensure you've got enough of the primary colors, you might have to double that. So let's say you purchase 100 of these, it would cost $3500. I'm guessing you could get a bulk deal elsewhere and cut that cost in about half, so maybe like $2000 if you shop around.

This or this can help with your ring until your weight stabilizes and you can get it resized. :)

Coins in Air-Tites or flips, in a sealed plastic boxes.

The boxes have re-usable silica dehumidifiers, and 3M Anti-Tarnish Strips - since I live in a humid, polluted city. The 3M Tarnish strips removes sulfur (common pollutant that tarnishes silver).

Here is the standard list I send out to people. :) I want to really stress how useful the spray bottle is too. My lord, so useful for keeping the paint wet on the palette.

Acrylic


Cheap set of paint: Which hopefully contains most of these colors: Cadmium Yellow, Cadmium Red, Colbalt or Cerulean Blue (I prefer Cerulean), ultramarine blue, alizarin crimson, zinc or lemon yellow (optionally yellow ochre if you don't get Raw Sienna), burnt umber, titanium white, ivory black.

cheap brushes (these can come in packs...you'll probably want nicer brushes after a while but this is a start): a couple rounds (be sure to have a nice small one), a few square edge (1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 1 inch), and a couple filberts

a palette: either a gessoed piece of wood, a piece of glass, plastic plates, etc

a spray bottle (so freaking important): helps keep the paint on the palette or surface wet

Gesso: not necessarily required for acrylic (because gesso is made out of acrylic) but paint binds well to gesso and it makes it possible to draw on the surface as well.

canvas, heavy paper, or wood: whatever you want to paint on. If you find pieces of wood just be sure that it is the raw surface and not varnished, covered in oil paint, or laminate.

Matte Medium: Always mix paint with a medium. It helps it have a better consistency and keeps the paint workable longer. They have a whole bunch of different types but matte is pretty standard.

Plastic containers for storage: Why was paint? Store your mixed paint in these

Edit: You may also want some acrylic retarder to make blending a little easier too. Also, titanium white replaced zinc white.

I personally found these less annoying than the kind that fit all the way around the band, but if you remove your ring a lot then the kind that stay on the band like the spiral would be better. I'm planning on having my wedding band fitted properly and hopefully just wear it on top so the engagement ring stays put.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DU8U63Y These are pretty good so far- a little hard to get off, but I haven't lost a pin yet.

There's also the kind that use a small allen key- https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BR9W8JO they sell them at the parks, too- They're handy if you don't have strong hands tho- the other kind needs a pretty strong grip to get off. (I always end up losing the little key tho.)

There are kits you can buy for testing precious metals. Found one on Amazon, though I haven't personally used this one. To test, you rub the metal onto the provided block and then apply the corresponding acid. The acid will eat away at other metals and show if it isn't gold or the indicated karat.

Get those silicone ring sizers to keep it fitting until you're ready to resize it. Something like this....
https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7

Definitely!. I'm tempted to just for nostalgia, but then again, I'm in my 30s haha.

Ooo, that's hard rubber. Do not submerge in water. In fact, don't get the outside wet at all. It'll cause the rubber to discolor and turn brown.

If it doesn't have a lever (I'm guessing not), it's an eyedropper filler, so the section probably unscrews from the barrel. You're probably okay putting the section/nib in water to dissolve old ink. To flush the inside of the barrel, use an eyedropper to fill it with water, plug the top with your thumb, and shake. Dump and repeat until the ink is gone.

As for polishing the metal parts, I like to use a Sunshine Cloth. Go gentle! It may only be a thin gold plating over brass.

Pens of this age are more museum pieces than useful tools. But they're certainly cool!

Have you thought about a little engraver like this? Maybe with a smaller bit.

Pistils have nothing to do with time frame. You need a loupe. To check the tiny little “diamonds” on the buds. (Not on the sugar leaves)

Some people like to look at pistils, but really the best way to judge is by looking at trichomes. You’re going to want more cloudy, less amber(I wouldn’t do no amber. It’s better to have some amber rather than more clear.)

If you don’t have a loupe I would recommend buying one. It’s like 10-15$ on amazon. one I use, nothing fancy

Edit: from the photo you recently posted, you look like you have a ways to go!

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Adjuster-Loose-Rings-Assorted/dp/B07C15P2F7/ref=sr\_1\_4?keywords=ring+resizers&qid=1569843651&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Hey! I'm by no means an expert in this, but I figured I could at least try to answer.

First off- Welcome! It's super awesome that you're so interested in bead spriting. Now, onto the answers!

• Fuse, hama, and perler beads are all technically different things!
  
  • Fuse beads - Refers to any/all types of beads used for bead spriting. Sort of like how Crayola and Roseart both make crayons, "fuse" is the type of product all bead-based companies produced. They're beads that are FUSED together through, generally, ironing.
    
  • Perler beads, as far as I can tell, are sort of the U.S standard for fuse beads. They're also the only kind I'm familiar with! "Perler" refers to the brand. Their website is here!
    
  • Hama beads, as far as I can tell, are the U.K standard for fuse beads. They're more or less the same (with slight variation in color, and though I've never used Hama, i'd imagine there's a different melting rate) as perler beads. "Hama", like "Perler", refers to the brand. You can view their website here!
    
    • I'm unfamiliar with the quality of Perler vs Hama. I'd order more based on what's convenient for your location- as a beginner, I can't imagine you're dead-set on figuring out the hyperspecifics of qualities!
      
• If I were you, I'd buy supplies separately. I purchase a lot of my stuff from Joanne in-person, but I'd imagine similar products are available online. My purchasing habits sort of go as follows...
  
  • If I know I need a specific color, I buy a bag of that specific color. For instance, I use black beads a lot for outlining, so I always try to have lots of them on-hand.
    
  • You can't do beading without a pegboard! Because I tend to only do sprite patterns, I don't need any specific shape of board. Perler makes a lot of boards in certain shapes- things like horses or dolls- for kids. These are awesome options to look into, but personally, I use a big, clear, rectangular board.
    
  • You also can't iron your designs (or, at least, shouldn't) without some sort of protection. You can get a roll of ironing paper, though I know there's some alternative ironing methods on this sub.
    
  • This might not be the best tip, but it's how I do/did it. If you're looking for a variety of colors and don't mind sorting, you can buy bulk buckets of various colors of beads. Buckets like this have a wide variety of colors, but you won't get quite as many of any one color, and you have to sort. It's a trade-off; you can get a few of a wide variety, or a lot of one color in bags.
    
  • You might want to consider a case if you're planning on organizing your beads.
    
• There's DEFINITELY better advice than this, but if you want it to have a more melty look, more heat is gonna get that. I'd go for lower heat for longer, rather than ramping up the heat for the same amount of time. Too much heat in any case can be damaging; it can warp the board or you can end up with wrinkles in your design.
  
  ​
  
  hope this helps!

ring sizers are cheap on Amazon if that's available to you. I bought one.

https://www.amazon.com/MUDDER-Stainless-Ring-Gauges-Measuring/dp/B01CCG6IQY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ring+sizer&qid=1555093083&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Bushes for the foreground : Green and Dark Green

Flowers in the foreground : Cranapple and Red

Background "ground" : White, Butterscotch, Yellow Cheddar

Background Flowers : Raspberry, Pink, and a knock-off "pink" from a "fuse bead" Set on Amazon.

Knock off "Fuse Bead" set.

Edit : I am so sorry, the darkest color is raspberry, then perler pink, then knock-off pink.

Seconding this! I got a little plastic 'bar' that sits at the bottom and keeps my ring at the right size. I think I got 5 6 for 10 bucks on amazon? I've also seen ones that are gold/silver (ebay) which might be preferable for some, but I needed it right away so the cheap ones on Amazon prime worked for me! It also loosens slightly over time (and if you bend the plastic a lot - like I did).

Edit: I also found that my ring fit on my finger really well when he first proposed, but was super loose the next day, and changes every day (swelling, ugh) so the non permanency of these really appeals to me!

Link to the one I got: https://www.amazon.ca/RINGO-6-Pack-Invisible-Material-Perfect/dp/B01LWTZC9H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484688076&sr=8-2&keywords=ringo

Any polishing cloth impregnated with some polishing compound will do great to shine up your sax. Be sure to get one specifically for silver, the cloths for brass or other metals will be much more aggressive.

It is fine to use silver polish liquid on heavily tarnished areas, as long as you are very careful to keep it away from your pads and thoroughly wipe it off every little spot it worked in to.

A polishing compound is likely to be slightly more aggressive than a cloth, but every time tarnish is removed you are actually just removing a microscopic layer of silver. Cloth is a good daily wipe down option, polishing compound is good for removing heavier tarnish.

I would also recommend keeping silver tarnish preventative strips in your case. Also, don't leave it out of its case for long periods of time, silver reacts with air to tarnish and just having your sax in its case will greatly reduce the speed of tarnish.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Anti-Tarnish-Silver-Protector-Strips/dp/B004PWMQNI

Have you checked cardboard dumpsters out behind stores? I can usually find a decent variety of different sized boxes behind dollar stores and other shops. Saves you some money too.

Also, as mentioned, you could use a box resizer like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-SIZER-Carton-Sizer-Reducer/dp/B000ZJOGHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409259088&sr=8-1&keywords=box+resizer

Have you tried water beads? OMG. They are AMAZING. I absolutely would only use them with kids that have stopped putting stuff in their mouths all the time, though.

But I bought some and they are awesome. The kids LOVED them, and they are cheap AF. I got a bag I linked to. I took a rubbermaid container and measured them out and left them sit overnight. I used 1/4 of the bag, and it made enough to cover the bottom of the container and fill it up a couple of inches. Plus, you can dry them back out and use them again. These will definitely be on my go-to list with 2's and up from now on.

I also got a big bag of dried pinto beans at costco. 20 pounds or so. I put them in a couple of containers, and let the boys go to town. They bury their hands and feet in them, they hide toys in them, they pour them into other containers, they put it in the back of their dump trucks and dump them into stuff, etc. I think we paid about $20 total for the beans and the buckets we keep them in, and it has provided HOURS of entertainment. It's also a lot easier to clean up than other sensory stuff I've used before, and it doesn't stick to them like rice does.

A free and easy one to do is ice! Freeze some small toys in ice cubes, freeze some colored cubes and use them to paint canvases outside. Freeze ice in different shapes and sizes.

I quite like working with Windsor & Newton gouache, but even then, not all W&N gouache are made equally. I find that some work better than others in terms of flow from the nib. For storage, I like to use little paint pots that I got from Amazon, specifically these, so I can just make small batches and if I need to, reconstitute them again later.

(Posted this on your r/christmas post, but sometimes they remove things with links, so I'm posting here too!)

I really like the Grimm's toys. They are kind of expensive, but super cool for kids to stack and build, organize by size/shape/color, and they are made out of wood which is a nice different texture than all the plastic toys kids have. My 4 year old son loves playing with all his Grimm's stuff. We have the large rainbow, some of the little peg people, the trees, fairy houses, and some blocks. I would also suggest kinetic sand, play silks and costumes, a rocker board, and water beads. All the above are great sensory toys and are big hits with kids with or without autism!

here is some other stuff you may need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00739RFHM/?coliid=I29PI2COFGAVLW&colid=5YRFAYE9FETH&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36-ROLLS-2-INCH-x-110-Yards-330-ft-Clear-Carton-Sealing-Packing-Package-Tape/382274969440

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-0-6x10-Poly-Bubble-Mailers-Envelopes-Shipping-CD-DVD-VMB-6-5-x-10-5-Bags/380819619830

https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-SIZER-Carton-Sizer-Reducer/dp/B000ZJOGHE/ref=pd_sim_79_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ZJOGHE&pd_rd_r=e55a63f1-c046-11e8-9456-45d4909ef258&pd_rd_w=vAZPk&pd_rd_wg=s1K4C&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=4QKB56F534CWRR2RX7BJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=4QKB56F534CWRR2RX7BJ

I got a tape gun used for $15 on ebay

Wow those are awful. Looks like I get to push my new strategy for hard to reach mould lines to the limit.

I've been using an engraving pen lately and it's working pretty well as long as you have a steady hand. It's basically a Dremel that will do less damage if you mess up.

General Tools 505 Cordless Precision Engraver with Diamond Tip Bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YK66NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EDqPBbG7DE5G4

http://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-SIZER-Carton-Sizer-Reducer/dp/B000ZJOGHE


One of these babies to save on packing materials and having to find the perfectly sized boxes.

Or just buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Work-Holder-CLAMP-VISE/dp/B000RB547G/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Free-Universal-Holder-HOL-173-00/dp/B0058EDVXQ/

Why don't they make something like these for cars?

they were called spokey dokes when i had them, but you can still get offbrand.

IMO the trick is to find a felt where the fibers arent too tight, but not open weave either.

Now this story will probably reveal me for the geek I am but whatever - I spent some time at a Michaels with one of these looking at the architecture of different felt and foam sheets. There was a typical Michaels sales person (if you have ever been to the store, you know the type) who spent about 5 minutes staring at me with increasing curiosity and concern until she could no longer control herself - she came up to me and in an agitated whisper said "WTF are you doing?"

I tried to explain but it was no use, it was obvious that she thought I was a complete asshat :-)

Learn in stages. Right now you need to figure out how big you want to go, and pick out your three fundamental pieces of equipment. Tent, light and blower/filter. First you pick out a tent. Common tent sizes are 2x2, 2x4, 3x3 or 4x4. They will get you around 4oz, 8oz, 8oz, or 16 oz per grow. They will require around 150w, 300w, 300w, or 600w of quality light. Quantum board lights from alibaba.com are an excellent affordable option, but you need to be comfortable ordering from China and putting it together. 315w or 630w CMH lighting is a very good option if you want plug-and-play. CMH runs a little warmer than quantum boards, and fits best in a tall tent. This Active Air 6" is a great blower/filter for a medium-large tent. You can use the 4" version for a small-medium tent.

You should get 3M anti-tarnish strips for the silver; they are a form of activated carbon that absorbs sulfur dioxide. I don't know if they would help copper or not.

Best $5 trade insurance ever.

I got this one. Construction is a bit shitty and the battery sometimes need a bit of jiggling, but having a LED is very nice and it works perfectly:
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MJ362242L-Power-Illuminated-Jewelers/dp/B003MCHXT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1368053581&sr=8-2&keywords=loupe

If you're scared of losing them, order these pin backs from Amazon. They hold very securely and the pins won't fall off.

Mudder 30 Pieces Locking Pin Keepers Backs, No Tool Required (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DU8U63Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d1xaBb2N03568

A couple of hours after clicking on this post and your link, I went to amazon and was confused why they were suggesting streamers and spoke beads.

Aw, I miss spoke beads.

This may be useful for you, it was for me.

$7 on Amazon, take one of her rings and try to match as closely as possible throughout all the combinations. Eventually you will come very close, maybe one or two sizes off, but by barely.

Pic

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCG6IQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4-fmDb4WNDQZ8

Most coin collectors I know use a loupe. Here is a very affordable one that lights up and is 40x magnification. It's the same type and specifics that I use, just a different brand.

They are $6.40 a set on Amazon. I am tempted to put these on my single speed.

I think [49x69 is the biggest one] (https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-30105-Beads-Classic-Superpegboard/dp/B005IP77G2/). (standard is 29x29). Make sure you use the masking tape method, because reading the reviews it looks like the big board is more sensitive to heat and warps easier.

Here you go

https://www.amazon.ca/Happy-Hydro-Loupe-Magnifying-Lens/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=asc_df_B01M8MDTAN/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292998552471&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1569126630693903932&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002305&hvtargid=pla-316100924577&psc=1 **buy this

You might consider a folding hand lens.. Very cheap and useful for looking at little details (e.g. head scales) in all sorts of critters and other nature nuggets.

This is the one i got in case you did get one that doesnt work 😔


Happy Hydro - LED Loupe - 30x & 60x Magnifying Lens - Includes Batteries & Carrying Case https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_otQDDbTHKYA0R

Here's a holder I've seen recommended.

• *Mixing brush: Any old brush will do. You can get camel hair brushes at most craft stores.
  
• Smaller sizes usually: 1/0, 3/0, 5/0, 10/0 Red (kolinsky) sable are the best. In the US look for Windsor & Newton.
  
• Honestly, if you are only painting a few minis at a time, get a brush-on primer. Vallejo Surface primer, Stynylrez from Badger or Testors Model Master acrylic primer. (especially use brush-on if you are painting reaper bones). If you are doing a lot of models at one time, get a cheap external-mix airbrush.
  
• Finishes: I've used dozens of brands over the years. Currently I use Krylon Matte-Sealer in an Aerosol can. Army painter Anti-shine is also good. 3-4 light coats will protect your models just fine. (beware of the gloss first then matte after myth, it does not protect any better than 3-4 coats of good matte sealer.).
  
• Work holder: I use this most of the time: Universal Peg-vise
  Otherwise I just use blu-tac (poster adhesive) and those little ketchup cups from fast food places.
  
• brush care: brush cleaners and brush soaps are good. They help you keep the point on your round brushes.
  
• Mold Lines: for metal minis, a hobby knife and small files. For plastic minis, get a mold line cleaner or you can cut them off with your hobby knife. A pair of sprue cutters is good if you are doing plastic minis that are on sprues.
  
• Storage: this is wide open. I personally use the Chessex figure cases for most minis. Portable Warfare, KR Multicase and Battlefoam also make quality storage/transport cases. If you want to display your models, I can recommend display cases used for shot glasses, baseballs, golf balls, etc. For the tools & supplies, Just use a small toolbox that can hold everything. As your hobby grows, so will the size of your tool-box.
  
• Agitators: depends on the brand of paints. Reaper paints come with agitators. Other wise, use small GLASS balls. Steel will react with the paint and rust, other metals such as brass, copper and stainless steel will also react with the paint. If you are not using dropper-bottle paints, just stir the paint with the back of a brush.
  
• Flow Improver/Flow Aid: while not necessary, some paints work better thinned (you do not need to thin all your paints when you use them). It also depends on your painting style/technique. I use Liquitex Flow-Aid (you mix it 1:20 with water to make your flow-improver solution). It is used in both brush and airbrush applications. For washes, you can't get better than Games Workshop's Shades line.
  
• Palette: Many painters use a wet-palette. I prefer an ice-palette. (use a metal dimpled-palette stuck on top of a freezer-pack).
  

The "normal" boards (29x29) link together, so you can go pretty much as big as you have space for. All of these particular items fit on one board each, except for one column on Pop. Otherwise there is this giant board:

https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-30105-Beads-Classic-Superpegboard/dp/B005IP77G2

This is about the size of 2x3 normal boards. An issue here is the size allows it to warp pretty easily while you are ironing. This can be nice for bigger pieces, but plan on using masking tape to lift it off the board before ironing. Another downside is these don't link together, so you if you need bigger, you are stuck using that many more smaller boards.

Just to throw it in, I found the board that comes on the iPad app kit is something like 27x33, so in some cases (like Pop), I could use that and not have to use two boards or the giant one. Downside is that it has handles that get in the way of ironing. I may just cut/snap them off.

https://www.amazon.com/Perler-80-22671-Beads-i-Pegboard/dp/B009MRLVQE

Have you tried putting different stuff in it? Water beads are my favorite thing for the water table. At that age you have to supervise to make sure they aren't eating them, but they aren't toxic if it happens. I've nannied and worked at a daycare. So, I've worked with a lot of crazy kids around that age. Water beads are always a hit. Just put some spoons, measuring cups, different sized containers and they'll play for hours. I suggest you do it outside because they do end up on the ground.

MarvelBeads Water Beads Rainbow Mix, 8 oz (20,000 beads) for Orbeez Spa Refill, Sensory Toys and Décor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018HSB7GW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_my6Ozb8AW9J5W

I also have done different sensory bins. You can freeze ice in different colors, or freeze a bowl of ice with toys in it. Instant snow was also a big hit.

Be Amazing Insta-Snow Jar, Makes 2 Gallons https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FA6APE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BC6OzbRCNGNGE

Finding activities where he will entertain himself will be a life saver. Getting out of the house to kid safe places also can really help. Parks, children's museums, water pads, etc. Places where he can be a crazy high energy kid and it's ok. It can be so hard and stressful some days, but it sounds like you're doing a great job!

If you're curious and think they could be bands, I recommend getting an inexpensive metals testing kit from some place like amazon If you want to search for yourself: Precious Metals Testing Kit Silver, Platinum, 10k 14k 18k 22k Gold Tests Plus Stone

Don't use micromesh--your nib tipping is probably just fine, but the tines are out of alignment. I just bought this loupe (with Amazon Prime). Use that to look at the tines and use light finger pressure to adjust them until they are even. It's a good tool to have around anyway for general fountain pen maintenance, especially when you buy vintage pens that need some work.

That is actually the exact one we got for when we separated our tub. But we got a couple of them when we bought some pre sorted beads.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ELT0FRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nL0RCbYPP06BQ

And with that set there are 20 slots for beads plus the top case for the tweezers and boards and such and it comes with 20,000 beads so 1000 beads fits, but not too much more than that. But if you have more of a specific color the walls that run width wise come out so you can make different sized sections like how my white, black, and dark grey are. We love these cases because they are so versatile. The only thing to be aware of is that the walls pull up occasionally if you try to get beads with your hand.

He sounds very knowledgeable (and lucky! He must use a metal detector.)

He should have (or get) an acid test kit for precious metals online. This is one type. They also sell these kits on eBay too.

They contain a piece of slate on which to rub the metal on, leaving a streak. A drop of the acid you think is appropriate is applied to it and the reaction is matched to what the manual says it should be. I've never used one, but it seems like an interesting concept.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AKYYSCM/ref=shptrk_scth these ones. The Meow ones are the 5 gram, I think? The acrylic case came with these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0036C0RT8/ref=shptrk_scth which I would NOT recommend. The threads on the lids don't really match up half of the time and quite a few lids were cracked and wouldn't close at all. The case is super nice though.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036C0RT8/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The jars don't come with sisters but that doesn't bother me. It does have a little tray that all the jars sit in which is nice for storage.

You put these tiny beads in a container, they absorb the water, and grow to the size of a marble. And they're all squishy. The benefit is that spillage wouldn't cause a flood, and you don't get soaking wet if you drop anything or go in it. Damp at most, unless they're like floating in water. They should absorb it all.

Trouble is just getting all the water there, because I've done the math, and a kiddy pool can be 40-60 gallons, minimum. And you'd need about 60-80,000 beads I think to fill it really high but could probably get away with less.

AND they are biodegradable. You can literally just dump them out when you're done and it won't cause a mud pile. People actually use them for plants, and they shrink back to the normal size, especially really quickly in that sun. (So keep it under an EZ-up and tarp!)

*edit: details

Locking Clutch Backs

They keep collar brass on when you get assaulted by a seatbelt or you're required to wear them with an outer carrier (for some ungodly reason). They also keep your nameplate on when your interior vest sits in a wear position and strips off the regular or rubber clutches when you turn your body left.


The only down side is that they're a bit bulky.

You could always try one of these invisible ring sizers!

I got one off Amazon after seeing it in his last painting post. I like the weight of it, mitigates some of my shakiness.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB547G/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

Also! Locking pin backs have saved my collection!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DU8U63Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479481259&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=locking+pin+backs&dpPl=1&dpID=51fCPvmdrsL&ref=plSrch

(Maybe that link will work??)

We use these, my wife wears pins constantly, including some of our really rare ones, we've never had a pin fall off with these backs and you don't need a tool to remove them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011OQMUSS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bicycle Spoke Beads!

(The link takes you to an add on item but on the side under More Buying Choices they are $5.15)

Funny that you mention that, last saturday, i was looking for a decent tardis pattern and couldnt find one i was satisfied with. I'm sadly limited as far as size goes because i have the big one piece peg board
The few places here in Montreal who sell that stuff only had this one and not the little squares you can connect. I wanted to do a majora's mask too but again, limited by pegboard size :(.

loupe

Use this with my iPhone

You can go to a jewelry store or buy a set of ring sizers off Amazon for around $6.

Ring Sizer Gauges Finger Sizer Measuring Ring Tool, Size 1 - 13 with Half Size, 27 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCG6IQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OqJjzbTN38E6Y

This loupe is super affordable and honestly I’m a huge fan, don’t have any issues seeing tric’s with her. I’ve heard this slightly higher priced loupe ($16 usd) is a bit better but I really don’t mind my cheaper loupe one bit!

You could always get a gold testing kit to find out what karat it is plated with.

As a temporary solution, there are plastic ring "size adjusters" you can wear. Here's one example, here's another example.

That box on the bottom brings fond memories of starting out on Amazon. The days before I stumbled across a weird looking ruler with cowboy boot spurs on the bottom

Lumpy boxes are a rite of passage! =]

If you have a dremel tool, there are buffer pads and rouge (sp? and need coffee) you can buy at any hardware store also a sunshine cloth works well.
http://www.amazon.com/Sunshine%C2%AE-Polishing-Cloths-Sterling-Jewelry/dp/B004ILV1B4

You can use to buff out the spots. In a pinch Tabasco works, just dab on the spot and let it sit for a few minutes. If you are going to use the pan for decoration only, after you polish it up use a tad bit of johnson pastewax to keep it from oxidizing.
(Jewerly craftperson works in copper)

Edit: looks like hard water stains from the pic but it is hard to tell. How long did you let it sit in vinegar?

Edit again: I hope these pots don't have a lacquer coating. I don't think they do but if they do forget everything I posted. :)

Contact the manufacturer

$8 Precious Metals Testing Kit I bought one a while back and it comes in pretty handy. Several YouTube vids on how to use.

I got the Perler Superboard on Thursday. I'm learning a lot, like not ironing on the board because it warps, and how to use the masking tape method.

Box cutter + one of these

I have had GREAT luck with rock stores (ie where you would go to buy crystals/geodes/etc). My local rock store has a yearly trunk show, and I end up getting really cool stuff for very reasonable prices. Lots of cool/interesting pendants, rings, etc. I'm wearing a dendritic agate ring from there right now, actually!

Things at rock stores are often set in Sterling Silver, so the maintenance is very easy and they go with a lot of different things. The added benefit is that you can find things that can be either fun and funky or classic and serious depending on the context of the rest of your outfit. I don't do earrings this way so much, but it's GREAT for rings and pendants.

I also second whoever said local vintage/resale places. I always check the jewelry display at my local savers and Goodwills. The jewelry at vintage shops is often a little more curated, but it can be a crapshoot as far as quality goes. I have specific stores I go to for their jewelry selection, but I only know to go there for jewelry because I've spent a lot of time looking at the case and deciding if it's worth it. Additionally, Goodwill has the "Goodwill boutique" stores now, and those are often filled with higher-quality or trendier items.

My #1 tip: silver tarnishes. Most resale shops do not polish it. You can find amazing, tarnished silver jewelry that cleans up right away with a sunshine cloth. Get a sunshine cloth.

My #2 tip: sometimes vintage stores will have pins/brooches that are amazing. You can often convert these to pendants. I've become much more of a brooch person recently due to some amazing happenstance discoveries, and I always get compliments on them. A lot of people consider brooches to be an old lady thing (which is absurd imo) so you can make some amazing finds.

I've gotten pretty things at Madewell, too, but I have a mixed track record with those things breaking, so YMMV. Another thing I'd say for this time of year is to hit up those Christmas craft market pop-ups--you'll find cool stuff that you might not encounter just searching online.

Y'all are making this so damn difficult just buy a ring sizer and check while she's sleeping.

Mudder Ring Gauges Finger Sizer Measuring Ring Tool, Size 1-13 with Half Size, 27 Piece

It's a general tools 505 cordless precision engraver. It's actually 15 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-505-Cordless-Precision/dp/B004YK66NM

I honestly think you're shilling these all wrong because you're missing the whole point. You keep downplaying that they are magnetic but thats the main selling point of the product.

There are plenty of options for locking pin backs out there (those are three different links), and these screw-on types are actually reviled by many for warping the studs on the back of pins, or leaving dents on it.

Again, the ability to turn pins into magnets is absolutely brilliant. Locking pin backs is not new territory.

I have this one now to check my final work: 12X,16X Illuminated Dual Lens Jeweler"s Loupe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MCHXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_P4yDwbKCJ23HD It's pretty cheap but it gets the job done. The depth of field on the smaller magnification is decent. The larger magnification has a very small depth of field but wow, you can really see small details with it.

I generally wear a headset mounted loupe while working, then check it with that. Again, I'm not a professional or anything... Just learning a dying art.

Here is the loupe I use, it has a built in light and blacklight too: https://www.amazon.com/Illuminated-Magnifier-Construction-Kare-Kind/dp/B00YBHQ7X2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1521233001&sr=8-6&keywords=jewelers+loupe&dpID=41kfrmUFCkL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The cover started getting wobbly after ~2 years of use, but other than that works really well!

You can use an anti tarnish strip or fabric. I store my sterling in treated flannel bags.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Anti-Tarnish-Silver-Protector-Strips/dp/B004PWMQNI

They have plastic or metal thingys that you can put on rings to make them smaller Example

Try wiping with a soft cloth. Definitely don't use abrasive 'silver polishing' cloth or silvo type things, they'll wear off the thin silver plate in no time.

I keep a square of this paper in my flute case and swap it over every few months. No problems so far:

Man I wish! Just found out I should have been wearing glasses my whole life. I'm 21 and I play baseball in college 😂 I have both the usb microscope and a loupe and let me be honest, i prefer the loupe.

Happy Hydro LED Loupe 30x & 60x Magnifying Lens - Includes Batteries & Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8MDTAN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b0DKzb5F4GHBA

Here's a temporary fix until you want to do something permanent.

Ring Size Adjuster with Jewelry Polishing Cloth,2 Sizes Fit for Any Rings,Clear Ring Sizer ,Perfect for Loose Rings,Pack of 12(2mm/3mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBUZPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EcNYzbBZAB7VN

If you want to go cheap and simple for a start at engraving get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-505-Cordless-Precision/dp/B004YK66NM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381286623&sr=1-1&keywords=engraving+pen

I'm assuming you're new to engraving so getting something cheap and simple like this would let you try it out for a good price to see how the whole engraving thing feels for you.

Just for ease of access.

$10 amazon$10 amazon

Maybe something like this?

This should help you out.

I've got one of these guys. I primarily use the 12x lens but if I really want to get into the nitty gritty I also have the 16x. The LED lights work quite well for illumination.

Saw this in the recommended list on that page, maybe this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB547G/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D8SD3MYP8QTGYFD1P24Y&dpPl=1&dpID=51aKAxgb39L

I ordered this one which actually cost me $25 CAD... it works great and came fast.

I have a combination of these and these. Avoid the latter! I didn't find out until after I ordered the 50 pack that the bottom of the jars is indented - it means if you try to stick a label on the bottom, it gets all scrunched up and wrinkled :(

Ring guards! Buy them on Amazon. I got mine and it had like 12 long coils and i thought I wouldn't need that much because I only have 1 ring too big, but I think I will need most of them. I have to take my wedding/engagement bands every 6 months for cleaning and I'm going to have to replace them each time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBUZPZP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DU8U63Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479481259&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=locking+pin+backs&dpPl=1&dpID=51fCPvmdrsL&ref=plSrch

I didn't even know these existed. I should invest in them so that I don't go looking for my pins in the middle of a party

It says Sunshine on the bags and I bought it from Amazon, specifically this seller.

you can buy them on amazon.