(Part 3) Best exterior car care products according to redditors
We found 2,600 Reddit comments discussing the best exterior car care products. We ranked the 655 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/
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Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt
Don't use too much product.
Too much will make it to slippery.
Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
$20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
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Post a before
and after picture
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
Good brushes. Try both of these. First one to get inside, 2nd to get the surface.
EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vYM1Bb887H6Z3
EZ Detail Go EZ Detail Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9HWWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JZM1BbKPE8ZJT
Chain brush, chain cleaner, chain lube. Basic tool kit. Stands are nice. For cleaning, I use the Honda spray cleaner/wax and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
Simple foam cannon from Amazon
If you think $15 bucket is better than a $2 home depot bucket, then it will be only because you have to justify for spending the extra money.
A lot of times in the detailing business if the seller believes in the price so will the consumer.
Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...
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Charging
Tesla OEM
Detailing
Third-Party
Nothing fancy at all.
I think I diluted the soap in the foam cannon too much so it's not as super foamy as something like a Torq foam cannon. But honestly, as long as it lubricates the car, I don't really care for the super sudsy foam. In the end, it's all gonna be washed away.
Black or silver?
You might be able to polish light scratches. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518023245&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+aluminum+polish&dpID=51bXDNFZtVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
on my stainless steel Apple Watch, and it works great! Obviously it's not a one-time thing, you'll have to polish the surface every so often, but it makes my watch sparkle like new. I polish it roughly once a week, and it takes just a few minutes.
Like djdish said, spray some apc then scrub it with a brush
Also, I would never use tire gel on my tires as they make the surface really slick, slippery, and resistant to water which is a bad thing on a bike, even on the sidewalls of the tire.
I hang out at /r/AutoDetailing a lot also - been keeping cars clean for 50+ years. Here's the destilled version before you wade through what others do. Buy some good car wash soap, I use Meguiar's, it's red in color. I've tried their up-scale one that's yellow, I don't like the film it seems to leave on the car. Buy a good microfiber mitt for the paint, (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Car-Wash-Mitt-Microfiber/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081035&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt) and a good large sponge for the tires/wheels. Use the two-bucket method, have two buckets full of soap. When you wash a section, mitt goes first in one bucket, swish it around a bit, then put it in the other bucket to get fresh soap for the next wash section. Leave the wheels for last and DON'T use the mitt, use the sponge for them. Wash the wheels/tires a couple of times, you might need one of these to help (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-862600-Black-Premium-Metal/dp/B0051MYLS4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081149&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+wheel+brush). When done washing use a waffle weave for drying (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Absorbent-Detailing-Professional-Flawless/dp/B00MA94SOS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487081214&sr=8-4&keywords=waffle+towel+car). They are amazing at getting the water up and leaving your car streak free. When drying, start with the windows first.
Use a soft microfiber towel, light pressure and, automotive detail spray.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3332-Quik-Detailer-Mist/dp/B0009IQXAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1484522811&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiars+detail+spray
It's specifically designed to remove the oils from fingerprints and, light amounts of dirt/grease from delicate (painted) surfaces. It's PH neutral too so, it's 100% safe for the body of your laptop and, the screen. I've used the stuff for my Macbooks (with sensitive anti-glare coatings), Alienware systems (with rubberized palm rests) and, TV screens or other electronic equipment for over a decade. Don't buy anything with wax.
Here's all the stuff I use :)
Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Basic detailing goes like this
You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
They make buff pads for removing wax
For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)
Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.
First of all, get yourself a nice set of microfiber towels. Anything from The Rag Company is solid, or a pack of the ones from Costco are good too.
The best way if you have time and access to a hose is the 2 bucket wash method. The way most people scratch their car while hand washing is the drying process. That's the part that people usually rush when really that's when most of the damage is done. Either dry it with a leaf blower or a microfiber towel and make sure the towel is clean after each wipe. If it's visibly dirty at all, flip it over or get another towel.
If you don't have access to a hose, or if its winter or whatever, use Optimum No Rinse. ONR is pretty much universally praised in the detailing world. This post should get you started.
After each wash, a quick way to wax/seal the car is to use Opti seal. Just spritz once or twice on a panel while you're drying and buff it off. It's that easy. The one bottle should easily last you a year or two.
Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.
2 buckets from Home Depot - $6
2 Grit Guards - $18
Megs Gold Class Soap - $9
Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11
einszett Cockpit Premium - $10
Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4
Chemical Guy's APC - $10
Optibond Tire Gel - $11
Grand Total of $109
There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.
This brush for wheelwells.
I had wheel woolies before which are great for in between the spokes and some of the wells, but in tight spaces this brush is able to compact and fit in so much better
I use Various Combinations of the following for my Dirt and Street bikes.
MF mit.. no brillo or bounty towels :)
Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed
Ratchet Straps
Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap
Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car
An actual RC Colorado ZR2
1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.
2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.
3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra
4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit
5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.
6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.
Only my second time doing it, so I'm no expert.
I bought the Mequires clay kit.
Washed the car thoroughly.
Dried with a chamois.
Started with the roof because it's the hardest part, it had tree sap and would require additional work, and I'm putting a roof rack on soon.
You want to do this in the shade for many reasons, but the biggest reason is you want the panels cool so the spray solution stays on the panel longer. It's a lubricant of sorts so the clay slides easier.
Work the clay over the entire panel, spraying more solution as needed. I recommend doing small sections at a time.
Periodically wipe the section down with the supplied microfiber cloth and inspect your work. You should feel an obvious difference between a clayed area and an untouched area.
Once you've completed the job, apply wax so the paint is protected. I have always used carnauba paste waxes so I stuck with Meguiar's Gold Class. Paste is more difficult to apply but I feel I get better application than liquid.
I also mask off the edges of the plastic and trim because wax is a PITA to remove from them. And I can be a little sloppy with the application.
I'll try and get some before and after close-up pictures when I do another panel.
In another thread that I can't seem to find someone recommended this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B006NZQ3T8
I had it bookmarked for myself on Amazon. I have never used it, never tried it, and know nothing about it except that someone in another thread recommended it highly for scuffs on the glovebox.
Edit: still can't find the thread. I'm giving up. Reddit's search system is terrible. Anyway, there was one more thing that I remembered from the post and that is the person who recommended it said that it changes the color of the glovebox slightly darker, so you don't just apply it to the scuff, you apply it there and then over the rest of the whole thing. And when it's done it will be a bit darker but it will look like new and still match the rest of the interior. If you try it, let me know how it goes.
This
This
&
This
Fill bottle like 1/5th of soap and rest water. Spray on dry car.
I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.
I use Meguiar's gold class. Any Caranuba wax is high quality, but that is the one I prefer and have found to be a very good price point.
Waxing is relatively straightforward. You will need a lot of soft shammy towels to buff the wax in and remove excess. It'll say on the can something similar to this: take the pad inside the wax can and buff the wax into the car in circular motions. Take a shammy towel and buff the wax using the same circular motions and removing excess. Flip to the dry side of the shammy towel and wipe the remaining excess away. Do that one small section at a time (for instance, I do one door at a time, or half of the hood).
Happy waxing! It'll make the car like you've never seen it before.
Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.
Used this wash and wax from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Personally I use a very very tiny amount of Honda Polish on almost all my electronics and have never seen it remove or tarnish any surface and it works great.
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
TOOLS
BUCKETS
CHEMICALS
INTERIOR
WHEELS
TOWELS
Try something that's made to be used on paint, like Stoner Tarminator, or a clay bar kit before you go to gasoline. Start gentle, use the harsh stuff only as a last resort.
And to not leave anything blank, here is what I'm happy with that I use:
For polishing cartridge pins - [Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish](http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5100-Aluminum-Polish-Paste/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605826&sr=8-4"She's not my mother, but I love her")
To speed up the process/ to tackle very damaged pins - my trusty [variable speed Dremel tool](http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-300-1-24-Variable-Speed-Rotary/dp/B002BAHFBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605918&sr=8-2"Don't leave home without it, unless you enjoy having friends, then don't bring that anywhere") (I use a large polishing disc with the polish, and make a huge mess, if you are going to try this - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. You only get two eyes, it'd be a shame to ruin any of them.)
Sticker removal - [Un-Du](http://www.amazon.com/Du-Products-Adhesive-Remover-4-Ounce/dp/B002E3KMSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319606203&sr=8-1"The only thing better than this would be a product that let you punch who ever decided to put a goddamned monster sticker over the goddamned label of a copy of Duck Tales 2. If I find you, I swear I'll punch you. It'll be easy, your name is all over your carts in marker. Do you know how hard that is to take off? Do you BILLY?!?") This is made of unicorn tears, or something. You can (although I don't recommend) pour this on over your main cartridge label to pull up a sticker on the top, when it dries, the label should not show any liquid was on it, and will become sticky again (be careful, that sticker will also have it's adhesive properties return). Very good product, and if you couple it with an old gift card, you can peel up pretty much anything. I can't praise this enough.
General staples - Rubbing Alcohol (highest concentration you can find), a million or so Q-Tips, Windex, and Compressed air (try to find someone without the additive that prevents kids from using it as a drug, unless you have excellent ventilation, you'll get that taste in your mouth, and it is awful.)
Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish is great for removing surface blemishes / rust.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478636075&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+mag
For my rarer waxings, i use McGuires Cleaner Wax with a radial buffer. However, for just week to week touch ups I use McGuires Quick Detailer ( http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Quik-Detailer-Mist-Spray/dp/B0009IQXAE) which basically keeps the paint clean and shiny in between washes and waxes, and it smells kinda nice.
Edit: with that said, you could really ONLY use quick detailer spray in lieu of waxing, it would more or less give you the same effect from a visual stand point (but in the long run may not not protect the clear coat as well).
Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover has worked very well for me.
Every other Turtle Wax product I've used has been terrible but this one is actually pretty good
I don't know if it's "The Best Way", but after peeling the sticker from my car with the hair dryer trick I used some Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover to remove the glue residue and it was very effective.
As an aside, I haven't tried it yet for anything else.
Yep. Meguiar's quik wax. There's like two different versions and I don't know what makes them different from each other but I guess they're more or less the same.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNS2/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B00P9OF00C
Spray, let it sit a moment, wipe it around the areas you regularly wax, done.
I cannot speak for how long this spray wax lasts compared to actual wax, but for me it's been very effective as a complete novice to car detailing and cosmetic maintenance.
Does this bike sit outside all the time without a cover? Do you ride it to work and park it in the direct sunlight all day? Those would be the first offenders. My bike is 9 years old and gets covered a lot - the seats still look brand new. Use this stuff when you clean your bike - it helps protect the plastic. I swear by it!
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
Pro Honda Polish
I swear by it. It's the only thing I use on my Harley. Chrome/Paint/Glass. Look no further.
We got lucky, the PO used to baby this aircraft and would basically live at the hangar and wax it frequently! We try our best to keep her clean. This stuff is magical and what he used to keep the paint cleaned and protected, and It takes bugs off with ease!
2017 EX-L hatchback
Mods: XenonDepot 5000k HIDs, HIC visors, Smoked side markers, Chrome exhaust finishers, LED interior lighting, OEM splash guards
Edited: For anyone curious, I tried using this waterless wash and wax for the first time. Not too shabby for quick in-between wash sessions. Just be liberal with the solution and use plenty of microfibers.
This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.
First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/
Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.
When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.
After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/
Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.
Go to the autoparts store and buy this stuff called buffing compound. It will be in he section where they sell the car wax. Use it and it will get rid of that film.
Here it is on Amazon:
Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ze3hzbJHNS5B3
This one, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497034099&sr=8-1&keywords=solution+black
How do you apply it? And is it something you need to reapply every few months, or more of a permanent/semi-permanent solution?
Thanks for the advice.
Solution Finish (1oz) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1pJUCb6ERVZ81
You could probably get results that approach professional work like this using a couple machines in conjunction. Obviously pro's tools are going to get things that just won't come out otherwise... but time and determination tends to make up most of the gap.
>Steam cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/HomeRight-C800880-SteamMachine-Cleaning-Wallpaper/dp/B00A1B4B58/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695083&sr=8-6&keywords=Wagner+steamer
-- Plus --
>Carpet/Upholstery shampoo extractor vacuum: http://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-ProHeat-Compact-Multi-Purpose-14259/dp/B002KCMH6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395695238&sr=8-1&keywords=Bissel+little+green+machine
I'd probably start with the steam to help loosen the really gnarly spots/stains and move on to the extractor to pull all the gunk out.
Combine that with some good upholstery shampoo and some strong degreaser and some elbow grease with a semi-stiff brush and you could get anything out of your interior.
How to: Clean, Polish, and Protect Exhaust tips
Note: Please check what kind of metal your exhaust tips are before choosing a metal polish.
This process is a lot easier than you think. A clean and polished exhaust piece really adds a bit of pop to the car. Regular upkeep will keep future cleanings much easier as always!
Chemical Guy's All Clean +
Jr. Speedmaster Brush
0000 Steel Wool can be found OTC
Britemax Easy Cut
Britemax Final Shine
Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicators
Griots Garage Microfiber Speed Shine Cloth
Royal Auto Shop & Car wash towels 36 pack
Gummi Pflege Stift
Shurhold Buff Magic Compounding Pad 2 pack
Yacoto Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt 2 pack
303 Fabric Guard
Invisible Glass 32 Oz - 6 pack
Griots Garage Microfiber and Foam Pad Cleaner
Chemical Guys Foam Cannon and Honeydew cleaner
Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz
Mothers Clay Bar Kit
Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect 169 oz
Griots Garage Microfiber Drying Towel
303 Stain Guard
303 Speed Detailer
Detailer's Choice Leather Chamois
Natural Boar Hair Detail Brush Pack
303 Spray Wax
MATCC 5Pcs White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Cone-Shaped Wheel Grinding Head
Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber Applicators
Awesome job man and beautiful Rex! I picked up a 14 about 2 weeks ago. I was wondering, how do you apply the Blacklight and the detailer? I see these on Amazon, would they be good? I'm new to detailing. Just wanted a quick tip :)
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Premium-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=18KSY6J0SCEKA3C6W8RK
You can use products like back to black on trim pieces
Mothers Back-to-Black
Sure thing:
Model 3, pressure washer (unknown brand, owned for >10 years), foam cannon, microfiber wash mitts (4), leaf blower for drying, and lastly microfiber towels for drying.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DKC6IY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K
and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y
Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier
Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ysRAbY208VGG
for bugs, sap, and tar, try something like this. clay does wonders, but it's not always the best tool for the job.
Stoners Bug and Tar. Spray on a rag and wipe down. Then get some spray wax or quick detailers and do the front of the rig. From then on they'll wipe off with water.
This ?
http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-91154-Tarminator-Grease-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI
This is really strong and awesome stuff right here. I have yet to see anything it will not remove. Stoners Tarminator
Try a clay bar with lots of lube. How long did you let the bug and tar remover sit on the spot for? also what kind did you use? Try [stoners tarminator] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LBGWI/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g263_i1_pd) if you have an auto part store nearby
Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
Hope this helps!
Mother's aluminum wheel polish. I know it sounds odd, but the stuff will make your headlights look like new in no time :-).
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/
>Sony PS-X500
I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on TT platters but be aware it will bring it to a shiny chrome like finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068GEJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Here's a good example:
​
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cleaned-my-vpi-scout-ii-platter.752930/
Wash and Wax $8
24 microfiber towels $13
Quik detailer $8
Simple Green is your friend.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D1GG6?ref_=wms_ohs_product&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
This ^ will last you a long time. I clean my discs with it to remove the squeak also.
This http://www.amazon.com/Park-CM-5-2-Cyclone-Chain-Scrubber/dp/B007HDNOT2/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709921&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=park+tool+chain+cleaner plus simple green = a super chain cleaning.
Also a little car paint detailer keeps it shiny shiny.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQXAE?ref_=sr_1_cc_2&s=aps&qid=1398709624&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=meguires%20detailer&pldnSite=1
Just spray it into a rag and not directly onto the frame to prevent over spray on the discs/pads.
As others have mentioned, a good lube (Boeshield T9 for example) should be matched to your riding conditions and applied.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1398709998&sr=1-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
I always keep some bug and tar cleaner w/ a microfiber towel in the trunk for inevitable bird poop. Does a pretty good job of removal even if it has been on there for a couple days.
Recommended http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
It's pretty much the same stuff as Ultimate Quick Wax, just in bulk packaging.
I'm a fan. I don't really think it's the best but it's very good and inexpensive. Optimum spray wax is very good as well, but it's pricier.
I use Blackfire spray wax, only because I got it in their full paint correction kit, but I bet Meguiars will have one. Its pretty unanimous that Meguiars has good products for the home detailer. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2
Hmm yea those soaps dont seem to be wax stripping.
You can do the ceramic coating yourself for $100 if you have the time, its fairly easy to do just have to follow the instructions. I myself am about to do a coating in preparation for the Northern winter.
A lot of people use C2V3 or CQuartz as their go to.
Thanks for the reply!
Is the D156 the same as this product from meguiars? Have you used that one? I only ask because I've seen that one readily available on the shelf of my local autozone, meaning I wouldn't have to wait days for it to ship before I got to try it out
The ABN Wheel Woolies are pretty great. If you really only want one brush then I'd look at the EZ Detail Brush
https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Brand-FBA_1001-SA-Detail-Brush/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527309737&sr=8-5&keywords=ez+detail+brush
I use this on my bike.
Honda Spray is the shit.
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
It's exactly what it sounds like. It's a spray where you simply wipe a dirty car off with a clean microfiber. No extra water needed. You can do your whole car with it if you wanted. I've done it a few times before in a pinch (I wouldn't recommend it on a real dirty car).
Meguiars sells a waterless wash that you can find in most auto parts stores or even walmart for about $10 a bottle. It's this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS
I don't know where you can wash your bike in that area, but I wanted to say that you might consider a waterless bike wash.
For example, this is a car product that works wonderfully on bikes. You just need to have a few clean rags or a supply of absorbent paper towels:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Waterless-Wash/dp/B006FUT0CS
I disagree with some of what has been said here. To me, it depends on your paint and your car. Is it hard or soft? Is it a DD or a garage queen?
On my DD, which has hard paint, if I wash it, and it has a dusting of pollen on it in a day or two, I will wipe it down with a waterless wash or ONR or AMMO Hydrate.
I use a MFs folded into quarters, which gets 8 wipes per towel. Spray product on the paint and the towel and wipe super softly. Use 6 or 7 MFs on the entire car, or just a couple if I’m spot treating.
If it’s more than pollen, learning to do a quick, 2 bucket rinseless wash with ONR will save you time over a traditional wash, once you master it.
Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.
A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.
You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap
[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)
[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)
[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)
[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)
I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.
[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)
Good luck!
They say this is the stuff to use. Never personally used it, but heard nothing but good things about it. Also a heat gun will restore the faded trim/rubber, then go over it with solution finish and you'll be in top shape.
Sweet!
That's really nice looking and I don't want to offend but I noticed the bumper ends and maybe the hood latches aren't as black as they probably used to be.
Try this stuff for things that just won't turn black with normal cleaners and protectors.
I used some on my Polaris stuff that had almost turned white and it really works.
Works on fingers too so you gotta wear gloves.
https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8
Top recommendation by r/autodetailing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=twister_B06Y1PQFWZ?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.
Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.
Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
Sure!
Foam Applicator 1
Foam Applicator 2
Microfiber Applicator these also come in packs of two
I apply 303 with these. They are great. Interior towels honestly aren't as important as exterior towels. Simply because you are much less likely to scratch anything on the interior, versus paint. I buy the Costco yellows and use them on the interior, exterior and simply degrade from: paint to interior, jambs, tires, wheels, trash as they get dirty.
Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.
Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.
First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:
Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?
I used the nanoskin sponge to clay the entire car since the car is pretty new. I let the wax sit for an hour. I've never had much success with 845 even on different cars. I get about maybe 2 weeks MAX. That's on all waxes I have used. I always just wrote it off as my car not being able to be garaged and maybe dirty/mineraly hard water that my city has to use. Also, the way that I'm checking if the wax is still there is by observing how/if the water beads after rinsing and how the paint feels. Most of the time, it's no longer silky smooth and the water doesn't bead in nice circles anymore. The water beads in messy blobs.
 
My process goes:
This takes me about 4 hours...
 
The products I use:
Optum
Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.
Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.
Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205
These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months
"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."
Mother's Back to Black. Used it on my Baja. It has to be reapplied so often, I had to do mine again after a fews months because my car sits in the sun. It should last longer if you have a garage. Here's what a difference it made between my bed trim and bumper plastic.
You should use some "back to black" on those trim pieces to really set it off!
​
edit: Amazon
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon $11.30 for next 8hrs
Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ttQUCbWAR2RRA
Stoners Tarminator is crucial if you don't have a pressure washer, it helps a ton on bug guts and just about anything else that's tough to remove from the front of your car.
For the future when you park under a tree this will take care of your problems with a can of http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-91154-Tarminator-Grease-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI and microfiber.
Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
It fits in a home depot bucket.
If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
WARNING **
When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
Steps for this process:
1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
I use meguirs nxt tech wax 2.0 and turtle wax and dry in between applications
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0
Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.
The community here will tell you to throw that Turtle Wax in the trash and get something else. People seem to like this stuff for an OTC product, although I've never personally used it. Make sure you're doing your best to get everything off the paint\clear coat before you apply a wax. This means a nanoskin wash or clay bar. Personally I'd go with Collinite 845 or another sealant type. General rule of applying a wax is to work in lines, not circles (this helps reduce swirl marks). Let it dry to a haze and buff with a high pile MF towel that you precondition with a little spray wax\quick detailer to add some lubrication. Smile as you run your finger across that smooth finish and crack open a cold one :)
I use Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax. It's what I've used since ~2003.
Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather
Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0
Dash protectant, I use 303.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant
Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.
Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.
After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.
Can't help too much on restoration.
For basic cleaning stuff, you can pick up somethings like this:
Stoner's Glass Cleaner
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo
Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner
You can dilute D101 for different ratios and use it full strength as a degreaser and lower strengths for interior work.
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 is a popular wax, but I like Collinte 845 more.
Depending on how bad your wheels are, Sonax or IronX if your wheels are bad, D101 if they are Ok.
Check out this thread as well: The Bare Minimum Supplies List
I own these 2 waxes/sealants, which would be better for winter?
NXT 2.0 Tech Wax
Duragloss 105
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=asc_df_B00068GEJM55768446/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B00068GEJM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205312686904&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11474337088846749024&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046811&hvtargid=pla-404900476440&th=1&psc=1
Mother's Aluminum Polish has worked wonders for my aluminum Cannondale. Just wipe some on a cloth and swab it around. The cloth will be black after awhile because it gets so much grime off.
I can polish aluminum to a mirror surface with that stuff
Mother's Mag Polish on a Dremel with the Jewelry cleaning attachments.
Mothers
Polishing Kit
I know a lot of people use a basic metal polish like this
It was a long day, but I'll try to get all the steps:
I feel obligated to say that I'm not associated with Meguiar's at all. I was doing all this with my brother who's a detailing enthusiast and he's a bit of a fan boy.
Also I don't have a ton of details on the rest of the interior because my brother started that before I arrived.
All in all it was about 5 hours, with some time spent on the interior before I arrived we also spent some time fixing up some stuff like mounting the window louvres and making the exhaust hang even in the back.
Don't use a carwash was that uses those rubbery bands that slide across your car. Those cause micro scratches that can easily be seen on a black car. Take your car to a carwash that hand washes the car or you can use the two-bucket method to wash the car yourself.
Between washes (black cars get dusty quick!) I take my car to an automatic carwash that uses just a water spray and dry it down carefully with quick detailer and good quality microfiber cloth.
For chain jobs, oil changes, etc just put a cardboard underneath like cappa mentioned. But for cleaning the exterior I use Meguires Quick Detailer and a couple of microfiber cloths. This way I won't need water. I'm also in an apartment so this is what I do:
1- With the first microfiber I wipe down the entire bike (dust, etc) from top to bottom and every little corner I can squeeze my finger in.
2- Spray the Meguires product above and wipe clean with the second microfiber.
That's it! This will make your bike spick and span without any water.
> Get yourself some waterless car wash spray
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-A3332-Quik-Detailer-Mist/dp/B0009IQXAE/ is what you want OP.
I use Meguiars quick detailer On both my bike and my motorcycle after I get stuck in the rain.
It clears up the water spots and acts as a lubricant so you don't scratch the paint was your rag wipes the grime away. A microfiber cloth is awesome.
I bring my bike inside to dry but it's a steel frame so I've got to worry about corrosion.
You can use either of these I just use the meguiars gold class because I got Collinite and didn't know what to do with the leftover carnauba wax
Rain-X Glass Treatment Trigger - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbHxbVN12JFV
Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTbHxbZGBRHHM
Polishing sheets
www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oJMttb14VTZ9R
Simichrome
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_jKMttb1EX6ENW
Renaissance Wax Polish 65ml
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RKMttb1YM5YXC
arnauba Wax
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NMMttb1MPHYVW
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Class-Carnauba-Premium-Paste/dp/B0009IQXCM?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I've had really good experiences with this compared to turtle wax and mothers. haven't really tried anything else!
I use Meguairs Gold Class
???
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=psdc_15718371_t3_B0009IQX6I
I just looked it up since I'm not familiar with it. I much prefer the paste type wax than liquid spray. The Car Guys Hybrid Wax description shows it's safe for windows too. A real wax should never be put on windows. If it's safe for windows, then it's not really a good barrier since it can be wiped off too easy and the protection layer is extremely thin.
Try using a real paste wax. I've personally used either Mothers or Meguires paste wax with great results. Stay away from combo pastes (cleaner wax). If your car needs a good cleaning (paint is rough when you touch it), use a clay bar before waxing.
Very basic question, but has anybody ever compared the two most common paste waxes?
Mother's California Gold Carnauba vs. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus
I'm going to use the Mother's first, but I don't feel like buying the other until I totally use up the first can.
Looks like bird shit. Try some bug and tar remover with a microfiber cloth.
I used this and followed the directions on the bottle of leaving it on for one minute.
I'll look for the remover you linked soon and hope that works, and if not, I'll try a clay bar. Thanks for your help!
You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.
Ugh, WD40? Guess you hate your paint. You should be using a bug and tar remover that's safe for car paint.
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
This is a must have. Every car I've debadged looks perfect after using just a little bit of this.
If you're too lazy to even buy the Meguiar's ultimate wax, you can skip the liquid application using a foam pad and try Meguiar's ultimate quik wax. It probably wont give as great as a result as the normal liquid wax but you can apply it quickly with a MF towel.
Popping back in here, I use this stuff for wax: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2
Where does that fall in terms of longevity?
I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for the longest time. Can be found on Amazon, or at Target/Walmart. Basically, anywhere that sells car accessories/parts.
Do note that spray waxes are best applied often. They do not last anywhere near as long as traditional waxes/sealants do. The main advantage is that spray waxes are quick and easy to apply and can be done in minutes, rather than an hour (or more).
Alternatively, consider waterless wax + wax solutions. Can help you keep your car clean in between your regular washes. Especially helps to keep your front bumper and hood clean from debris you accumulate daily.
I've used Meguiar's Quik Wax on my car and even after washing it a couple times, water still beads up a bit. The bit of shine benefit is gone, and the beading isn't as strong as fresh (still WAY better than none). But it's clearly beading after a few months.
If the products are related, it's probably worth trying out.
The brembo wheels are painted just like the car and can get scratched just like car paint. I use this on mine. Works great.
http://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-1001-SA-Brush/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1NHC4K3WRGD9TC2S3XF8
Also, don't be afraid of the cutting stuff. The mirror glaze and light cut products are not going to damage your paint. your clear coat is much thicker and more durable than people think when it comes to these buffers.
Ok so I'm a little bit crazy when it comes to detailing. For rims, I use
https://www.amazon.com/Adams-Deep-Wheel-Cleaner-16oz/dp/B00BPGGSCW
Any of these deep cleaners will work. They'll smell terrible, which is good because it's actually grabbing the iron and brake dust contaminants and pulling it off of your surfaces. Spray on, let it sit for 30 seconds to a minute, and then I hit it with a wheel brush and mitt.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LOP5IA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Fingers-Microfiber-Half-Mitts/dp/B07F3FB152/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542234430&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=microfiber+wheel+mitt&psc=1
Then I hit it with a clay bar and detail spray, then wipe.
After that, technically you can apply a wax and you can buy a specific wax for your wheels, but I just wax it with colinite 845 since I have a ton of the stuff lying around.
My wheels are gold and so I do this routine once every two-three months. Doesn't take long to do once I keep up the routine as it's usually not that dirty. I ride my bike everyday in all weathers and it keeps up pretty well. Every time I do a quick wash in between, a simple soak with the foam gun and wipe is sufficient
/r/Autodetailing
Great resource,
EZ Detail Brush Big https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LOP5IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.McQzb8ANQSFG
A couple of friends recommended this.
I cant comment on it since I use microfibers but my wheels are really easy to clean.
I can imagine for wheels like the stock ones a brush like the one linked would be very good
Honda Pro Polish
.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
Sorry, linked the wrong one. A little goes a long way - I ride year round and only go through 2 of these full size cans:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FSEJZA/
Try this stuff https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
My mechanic uses it to clean everything off of everything.
Definitely looking into this. Is the Pinnacle brand better than Meguiar's version? Pinnacle requires an additional shipping cost on Amazon, but Meguiar's doesn't, so I'm kind of leaning that way.
However, it looks like the Meguiar's doesn't have carnauba wax in it. Is that a big deal if I have the Quik Detailing Spray and the Quik Wax spray bottles? If it is a big enough deal, I don't mind shopping locally and getting the Pinnacle. I had some Amazon GCs, but I can spend that on something else down the road.
I literally bought a 36 pack of Amazon branded microfiber cloths that had good reviews, so I'll be looking into the rag company's products once I burn through the Amazon. Too late to send it back at this point without being killed on shipping, lol.
I use the wash and wax spray anywhere stuff, no need to wash every time you take her out. Works good when your in a rush. Otherwise Ill wash it down and give it a good hand wash with soap and water and use a leaf blower to dry. Heres a link to some of the spray I was talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Wash-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396018452&sr=8-1&keywords=car+wash+spray+no+water
LOL i had the same issue. Turns out that the back camera has a coating, which makes pictures all blurry. Get some polish and with a qtip clean the camera glass. Sadly i figured this out too late, i though the coating was more of a peel so i tried taking it out, turns out i was pulling the glass.
something like this
Oh i didn't realize there was a difference between polishing compound and rubbing compound. Would this work?
Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_14OHDbVERDVNV
I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.
Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Plastic Trim Restorer - Car and Truck Polish - 1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZQ3T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hO03Bb43GZ7Y0
This is the one I got and still have 3/4 left after 2 times use. Dont buy the big bottle because you only use it as little as you can. There a lot of youtube video out there. And it safe for paint to so dont have to tape everything.
For black use this product and just follow the instructions. Solution Finish Black Plastic & Vinyl Plastic Trim Restorer. Determine which size to order based on the amount you need to restore.
For white use this: Salon Care 40 Volume. Brush it on and then leave it in the sun for 8 hours, if possible. Direct sunlight, not through a window. You need the UV rays from the sun to react with the cleaner for the desired effect. If you have a UV light hanging around you could use that too but most people don’t so the sun will be your most common UV source. You can repeat the process if necessary but if the day you clean is sunny enough you shouldn’t need to.
Both bottles should last you a while. Obviously start with clean electronics so the restoring process isn’t fighting through dirt or grime but it sounds like you’ve already done that. Good luck!
You'll love this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Solution-Finish-Plastic-Restorer-Detailing/dp/B006NZQ3T8&ved=2ahUKEwilwJPirK3bAhXjp1kKHQQqBnYQFjAAegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2NAmewTUAvPcEnTGKNywFD
Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.
Looks like a good list to start out with. For Meguiars APC I wasn't able to find that locally. I ended up getting AllClean+ by Chemical Guys on Amazon and it was a good concentrate and fairly cheap for 16oz for $8 (Chemical Guys CLD_101_16 All Clean+ Citrus Based All Purpose Super Cleaner (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AN7CT4K). I dilute it 10:1 for exterior. U can go 20:1 for interior. The reason I went with it was due to the time for shipping on Meguiars APC (wasn't prime). Also I picked up Stoners Invisible Glass at target for super cheap in case you don't want an entire gallon of Meguiars.
I also did a post with my entire list of stuff I used for my maintenance wash and got most of it from Amazon (not Adams chemicals since it is not Prime). Feel free to get ideas of products and different parts from there. Would highly recommend empty spray bottles if you are buying a lot of concentrated products. Link: https://m.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/4g96kb/my_first_maintenance_wash_w_product_list/
Ok so there are three 2015 and newer cars in my family and we all make sure they are always looking their best
1)I, the one who is investing and discovering the joy on detailing cars, would like to ask if there are any products i can buy in concentrates that will last me a life time such as Quick Detailers, Interior cleaner, tire, spray quick wax and wheel cleaners ETC? I see so many products in the wiki its kind of over whelming. I currently only have to last me a while for my car (Megs OTC recommended kit)
2) My Car, 2016 Mazda 3 5-door SGT, has a crap load of leather and soft interior. I kinda bit off more than i can chew in terms of maintenance. Is there and interior cleaner i can use for everything (currently have Megs Quik Interior Detailer) including the leather?
3) Are these any good? [These applicators from TCG] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_292_08-Microfiber-Applicators/dp/B00BTGSGFK/ref=pd_cart_pd_ecc_rvi_cart_2_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=19GM4RBQY3NSV7336751&th=1) seem to be on sale. should i stock up?
I used to use those microfiber circular applicator pads but didn't like them. No where to really grip it from and it just felt awkward using it. And then I found the microfiber blocks and they made the job MUCH easier. Bigger coverage as well as a place for your hands to hold. I'd recommend these over the circle pads any day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BTGSGFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Awesome! Thank you for the help.
For the Carpro Perl. Am i suppose to dilute it? Also for appying it do you recommend oine of these to apply it 1 2 3
I'm thinking #1 for applying the wax and #2 for the plastic trim.
Here are links to all items used or mentioned in this video:
EQUIPMENT:
Sun Joe SPX4001 2030 PSI 1.76 GPM 14.5 Amp Electric Pressure Washer w/ Pressure Select Technology & Hose Reel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBV3LPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h74uCbXEB81HB
Sun Joe SPX-UQC Universal Brass/Aluminum Pressure Washer Garden Hose Quick-Connect Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HH3V1Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.74uCbWV6TH05
McKillans Foam Cannon Professional Grade Adjustable Lance Pressure Washer Jet Wash with 1/4” Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6KPV3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN5uCbG88X0C2
Extra Bonus! Includes 3 Additional Filters - Metro Vac Revolution W/ 30 Ft Hose - Model MB-3CD SWB - 30 - Air Force Master Blaster Car & Motorcycle Air Dryer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711L4Y6F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IS5uCbZ4QRY1C
https://simplechuck.com/
Amazon:
Double Chuck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072QRNWY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5m5uCbRTN1SPV
https://www.autogeek.net/ps-beadmaker-sprayer.html?productid=ps-beadmaker-sprayer&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&utm_campaign=1504990722&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=287205172222&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzafHqKCb4AIVARx9Ch2RlwD6EAQYByABEgJcZvD_BwE
CHEMICALS:
Chemical Guys CWS_110 Honeydew Snow Foam Car Wash Soap and Cleanser (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OTW646/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_594uCbGY470D2
https://www.theragcompany.com/p-s-bead-maker-paint-protectant-gallon-128-oz/
Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RE5uCbVH68G0R
Hope's Perfect Glass Cleaner, 2 Piece, 32 Oz. Spray Bottle and 64 Oz. Refill Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALK3I52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bI5uCbW6A0HWF
Chemical Guys CWS_201 Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001W91J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9K5uCbQSX7V7A
OTHER SUPPLIES:
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-cyclone-wash-mitt-premium-korean-microfiber-2-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-towel-grey-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-16-creature-edgeless-dual-pile-towel-5-pack/
https://www.theragcompany.com/value-bundle-16-x-24-eagle-edgeless-500-microfiber-towels-3-pack/
Similar Wheel Brush
AmazonBasics Wheel Brush, Long Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P7FSW5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml5uCb5R63RHP
Quik Shot - 16 Ounce Plastic Flask with a Built-in 1 Ounce Shot Glass Chamber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM5FI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_STjvCb7H18HTF
Amazon got a gal of ONR for $28
Optimum (NR2010G) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PsVZDb1QH2GAE
That's basically what I do with my car in the winter. I don't always use their soap because I don't know what's in it but, I power wash. If it's really bad, I'll do a pre-soak with my own dulited spray bottle of Simple Green or No Rinse.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG9FK2M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520218020&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=onr&th=1&psc=1
I buy some expensive yet cheap overall for the soap needed no rinse car wash. It's really great stuff and highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GG9FK2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the actual paint, I took that to a body shop for them to redo. For the bumpers and plastic trim that starts to fade, I used a few coats of Mother's Back to Black:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06112-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485756436&sr=1-1&keywords=mothers+back+to+black
A few coats of this and the plastic parts look like new.
MOTHERS Back to Black
I've used it for years with great results. Be sure and shake it up well before using.
This picture is very flattering. At the moment the trim is faded a little bit.
I've had good luck woth Mothers brand "back to black" you have to reapply every 3-6 months though
Edit: Mothers 06112 Back-to-Black Plastic and Trim Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NrbLxb0MWADR6
If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:
If it's just skin oils then plain old soap and water should help. Use a car soap though, dish soap will strip wax.
You could also try Back to Black: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-06112-Black-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4
Sure
This is the one I currently use: Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tgFxb1M1HBR5
Literally the only CG product I own. I like that it's green so I can see the dirt. However here is one that is highly rated, but is blue, but if you don't mind that these ones seem good too, especially if you have a large vehicle. Plus you can dedicate one to the upper and lower half or however
Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0vgFxbQ8H8HA9
Why not get a few of these? https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Car-Wash-Mitt-Microfiber/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868503&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt
Amazon/Ebay!
MUCH cheaper prices than buying it locally.
Grit guard;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=grit+guard&_sacat=0&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15
​
Wash Mitts;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B016NGZWVG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=MSCN7C5STT7GCSY8JXVC&pd_rd_wg=d3TEz&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=QB1ot&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=bbafadfb-b84f-11e8-940e-2fb2dccbe537&th=1
​
Drying Towel:
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_721-Absorber-Microfiber/dp/B001TZBQ0S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1536951373&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=microfiber+drying+towel&psc=1
​
General use microfibers (these tend to shed fibers on glass though);
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_03-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCK8O?th=1
I've got two of the $20 ones, and they work great. They both work the same. And I would make sure you get a pressure washer with a 1/4 quick connect. It seems like everything is going to that and pretty much every accessory is using it as well. I had an electric pressure washer and compared to my gas one it was apples and oranges. As in what my electric couldn't touch my gas cleans very well. So if you want to do more then just use the foam cannon, get a gas washer. I bought a Ryobi 2800GPM one from Home depot, and one thing I love about it is I can change the power right from the wand. I can use it full power or gentle power which I use on occasion on thing like my wheels and engine just by twisting the wand.
I have this one
And I have this one
I have the Ryobi 2000 psi electric pressure washer and it gets the job done. It chips away the top layer of concrete on my driveway if you hold the nozzle close enough. So I would imagine that a drop in 300 psi will still clean your driveway. Invest in a foam cannon and you'll have no reason to go to a car wash again. People will tell you that your gallons per minute will be too low for a foam cannon but 1700 PSI will put the foam on the fucking car. That's all you need. I use my pressure washer about once every two weeks. It's more useful than you think.
Fasmov Car Wash Pressure Washer Jet Wash 1/4" Quick Release Adjustable Snow Foam Lance Foam Cannon Foam Blaster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKC6IY6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_rsJiybGWP6HFD
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon 20% off and on sale for $16 at Amazon.
Brand new to auto detailing. I'm a little overwhelmed, but I think I'm ready to start.
My plan is to wash, decon, wash, clay, and finally seal.
I've decided to not get into polishing right now. I do have some scratches and blemishes that I'm trying to ignore for now. Can I address these down the road or will I be making a mistake by sealing before polishing? I know of a good polisher, there are just so many choices for cutting/polishing solutions and pads that I want to avoid polishing for now.
Please tell me where I'm wrong/what I can do to improve.
Thanks!
Meguiar's GC soap 1 Gallon pretty cheap right now on amazon.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7101FFP-Gold-Class-Wash/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=meguiar+gold+class+soap&qid=1567699331&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
> Opti-Seal
This stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-20239-Opti-Seal-Foam-Applicator/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521835674&sr=1-1&keywords=opti-seal
Should I buy a foam applicator?
Posting here as I didn't see the rules the first time round..
Hi guys. I'm not a professional detailer, just a guy looking to keep his used car in good shape. I'm also totally new to cleaning and maintaining a car.
My current method to clean the car is to take it to a coin operated self-wash shops. After this I just usually wipe down the car with clean microfiber and drive away. I'm looking to use a product that reduces water stains and streaks and keeps the car a bit shiny. I came across these two on amazon:
Which one of these is more recommended? AFAIK I can also use Opti-seal as a drying agent and on interior surfaces too. Because of this I'm slightly inclined to opti-seal. Do you guys also think this is a better product of the two?
I'm open to other recommendations also :)
I would start with the least aggressive option and work your way up.
Least aggressive: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001Q5UTZ4
Middle of the road: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002LBGWI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374433155&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
Aggressive: goo gone
Nuclear: paint thinner or mineral spirits
My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.
As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.
I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.
Just to add, chemical guys sells an APC for $8. I bought one but have not had the chance to use it yet.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CLD10116-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B00AN7CT4K