(Part 3) Best hardware products according to redditors
We found 6,289 Reddit comments discussing the best hardware products. We ranked the 3,130 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
That's problematic because it's installing a fixture, which may be an issue at the conclusion of the lease. Chains are kind of pointless anyway as they are easily broken.
A solid non-permanent option is a security stick.
Perimeter hardening is often the most effective use of funds when starting out with home defense. By making it harder to get in, you will deter some criminals and give yourself additional warning time for those who continue their attempt to enter.
The most common point of forced entry is through an exterior door. Residential doors are often only held in by a dead bolt and strike plate that has 1/2 inch screws that only sinks into the soft wood of the door's trim. It's trivial for most people to kick in this door and fracture the wood trim and allow the door to swing open. To combat this, get a Door Jamb Reinforcement kit (other kits available at hardware stores, more expensive kits available that provide more protection). This kit consists of a metal plate and 3 inch screws that will distribute the force and sink into the strong wooden studs beyond your door frame, making it much stronger. Get some 3 inch screws to replace your hinge screws, which typically have the same 1/2 inch screws holding it to your door frame.
Other devices are available to help prevent forced entry while you are home. These should be used in addition to a deadbolt and door jamb reinforcement hardware:
If you are concerned about lock attacks (bumping, picking), consider a high end deadbolt from a manufacturer like Abloy or Medeco from Security Snobs. These locks do not have the same vulnerabilities as typical pin and tumbler keyways found in most residential deadbolts. In addition, the key blanks are restricted, which means that they can't easily duplicate your key at a shop or create one from a blank.
The second most common point of entry is through a first story window. Window security film can be installed by a professional or by the homeowner to increase the amount of time it takes to break through a window.
If you have a side or back yard gate, remember to lock it.
Trim down any large bushes or shrubs that conceal windows or entries. Burglars could use these areas to hide while they break in or wait for you to leave. These should be no higher than knee or waist level. If you want to have large bushes, consider one with thorns that would make it difficult to hide near.
If you have the budget, get a monitored alarm. Either professionally installed (ADT, etc.) or self installed (SimpliSafe, Scout, Abode, etc.)
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You can put some door armor on your front door. That will stop someone from kicking it in, unless they have a bartering ram: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70
I put an old school bar barricade on all my back doors. 2 of my neighbors have already gotten their doors kicked in this season. All home owners should do something to make their doors more secure. Metal door frame reinforcements will be added to my front door.
I love summer in Baltimore!
There are doorknob locks you might try. They're like little plastic cages that hang around a knob. So no one can turn the knob, and it can only be unlocked with the key. They come in all shapes, I believe.
ETA: Not that you should have to get a lock. This is ridiculous. I'm just saying there are locks you don't have to screw into walls.
>I hate guns
This is a response that a lot of people have who didn't grow up around guns. However, don't let that emotional response affect your safety. If you're open minded in having the best self defense tool available, go take a gun safety course. Preferably one that includes live fire after classroom instruction. This will demystify firearms, which for most people, removes the fear of them. After this, you should still have a healthy respect for them and what they can do. To keep them inaccessible to your children, get a quick access safe.
Whether or not you get a gun, here's some other things you can do:
You need to harden up your home and business first. Alarms and cameras are only good for after they stole everything. Alarms to let you know that you've been robbed so you can get pissed off that you've been robbed and cameras to maybe see what they look like, but will not be caught.
Put longer screws into the door strikers. Get something like this for the door.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2K3IPE/
and a door striker like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10385-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/
For your home, while your sleeping, I would get something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7PVLK/
Have they been breaking in one particular way? If so, maybe we could help prepare for their preferred way.
I always highly recommend hardening your home. It helps that you are in the second floor, that means they are less likely to target your windows (unless there is access to your windows). So, let's focus on the door. Doors (and their frames) are often quite vulnerable.
If your door doesn't have a deadbolt, get one and use it! A deadbolt is much, much stronger than the lock on the knob, but it doesn't do anything for you if you don't lock the deadbolt. It is slightly less convenient because you have to use a key to lock it when you leave, but the extra security far outweighs the slight inconvenience. Use your deadbolt.
You may be limited in what the landlord allows you to do, but I'd suggest you do some version of the following to reinforce the door. You can get a door reinforcement kit like this or this (I've sometimes seen the prime-line kit for sale at HD or Lowes for more like $25). These will reinforce the weak door frame and make it much harder to kick in the door. If that is too big of a change, maybe you'd be allowed to replace the strike plate with one like this. That would be a good step up from a standard strike plate. If you aren't allowed to do any of those, at a minimum you should replace the short screws that your strike plate and hinges likely have now, with longer screws (3-4 inch screws are good). The longer screws will anchor the strike plate not only to the weak door frame, but to the strong 2x4 structure behind the frame too. Also a few of those long screws on the hinge side of the door; stock hinge screws are often too short for good security too.
Reinforcing the door will make it much harder to kick in, so they will probably move on to a softer target. It would also take longer and make more noise, giving you more time to call for help, arm yourself, or escape.
If their preferred method is not to kick in the door, but to attack the lock (using a bump key or lock picks), I'd suggest switching to a high security lock like a medeco or assa/abloy. If you can't afford that, then a lock that uses a non-standard key would at least help some. Kwikset KW1 and Schlage SC1 are the most common keys, so those would be the most common bump keys carried by thieves. Getting a lock that doesn't use either of those would at least make them less likely to have the proper key handy.
What I wrote above can help keep people out; that is most important in my opinion. After that, some sort of alarm may make an intruder want to leave more quickly, or also give you extra warning.
Edit: I just wanted to add that many companies use the KW1 and SC1 keys, not just kwikset and schlage. So if you want a less common key, you have to do your due diligence to know what key it uses. For example, I think Baldwin uses either a KW1 or SC1; also, i think Defiant uses a KW1. And definitely avoid anything that uses Kwikset's "Smart Key". The Smart Key locks are just weak junk.
Rok Hardware 4 Pack Heavy Duty 8000 LB Capacity Adjustable Furniture Leg Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4BUE1P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gsCACbY99EXWS
Don't install a chain door lock. There are other, non-installation-style, door stops that can be used indoors, like this for instance.
You could make a simple wood frame like this one made out of old pallets for the glass table top https://cdn.instructables.com/FJ8/RUGM/IATH9OM9/FJ8RUGMIATH9OM9.LARGE.jpg.
If you got some glass pads and put them on the frame you could just move the glass into your bedroom away from the kids when not in use.
https://www.amazon.com/Stick-Glass-Protective-Pads-Pkg-Clear/dp/B004BPQMV6
Small feet should eliminate the wobble. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BPQMV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_puYRAbNXFDDER
Buy a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A50NB24/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Clip one to each corner of your bag, then run a length of shock cord across the short ends of the bag. Shock cord gets attached to the wall and boom- you have an underquilt that has not damaged your bag or your hammock.
First of all, you're completely in the right. You are offering shelter to your friend, with stipulations such as not going into your private bedroom, and your friend agreed to the terms. If the rugrat isn't under control that's not your problem.
Second, you might want to look at a door knob lock like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BOZBDK6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7A41VTRX79TZ8NWVEX5F), which goes over the doorknob already there. Or a child proofing lock like the one [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWSJXAG?aaxitk=WZHCF3gwTkd.gev5Zmj-JA).
I would tell your friend to pay for one of those if she has a problem.
You can buy these now. Much easier to install and accomplishes the same goal (sorry for the long link). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.u0Db0RP3NYH
get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15
You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.
Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F
But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.
I use these and they work really well
These are perhaps over what you'd call "cheap" but they're expressly designed to absorb vibration.
https://amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B003IMJ3S2
They come in different sizes and weight ratings matter. Too much, or too little (!) weight and they're ineffective.
Maybe try the yoga mat / kitchen drawer stuff first, and keep these in mind as plan B.
That's a bit overkill. https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/
Schlage makes a zwave one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083GJ17G
I've had one for about three years, and found it works great.
Seriously, not a bad mom; you were supposed to be safe, in your own home, you were sleeping. People don't necessarily sense things are wrong and that doesn't make you a bad mother, fuck her with a goddamned soldering iron.
Also, that cop is gr8, holy fuck.
More importantly, if you have a new location you may want to be sure to have some kind of motion sensor that will trip and set off alarms loud enough to wake at least one of you if she sets foot on the property. Have you considered potentially getting a dog trained to at least start barking if someone gets close, if not?
I mean based I'm the fire incident alone I'd be fucking terrified of her doing something whole you slept, again, and a woman willing to burn her grandchildren and their mother alive for calling the cops her pedophilic piece of shit son is not a woman who's gonna think oh no, they have an RO/TO against me I can't get close!! You know? I'd consider getting a weapon, and check state laws. If you're not comfortable with a gun you can get things like pepper spray or a taser, also a security system.
Another way to hopefully at least make breaking in hard in the event she somehow got ahold of a house key is to get a key cover like this, if you're worried. Just an extra layer of security if you need it, made of diecast. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOZBDK6/ref=asc_df_B00BOZBDK65193055/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00BOZBDK6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198055620944&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17223530890610205033&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014737&hvtargid=pla-319675819603#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1506742212278
That url cover gore tho. Anyway, yes, I just thought I'd throw these out there, but I'm sure you have covered all of your bases three times by now. But it never hurts to put safety suggestions out there I figure, better safe than sorry. I hope things go smoothly for you and your family, and that you all stay safe.
Since the neighbor has suggested he'll get physically violent, I would also suggest reinforcing the door knobs and strikes. Relatively cheap, easy to install, and will buy you very precious time if the neighbor decides to start kicking the door down.
Tech: Smart plugs / switches. I'm partial to Wemo and second to TP-Link. Could get a few plugs for under $100. Pair them up with logitech pops someday (the starter kit is $100 right there, I'm just mentioning it because the two work well together.
Universal fan controllers, I can't speak to any brand/style I could recommend. You would have to research that one, but something like this https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ceiling-fan-remote-controls-Ceiling-fan-parts-accessories-Ceiling-fans-accessories-Lighting-ceiling-fans/4294395598 I personally like the wall mount ones with a remote. So you can use the wall switch as normal and the remote as a bonus.
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Non Tech:
Easy off toilet seats. Ever take a seat off before? Years of poo under the seam. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEMIS-Lift-Off-Elongated-Closed-Front-Toilet-Seat-in-White-1500EC-000/100120881
Pair it up with a plunger that doesn't suck. IE buy an expensive one that won't get stuck and splash poo water all over your walls because you have the $10 cheap one from wally world.
​
Garbage disposal. You can get a little badger for $100. But that's gonna end up being a DIY project to keep your $100 budget.
Soft-close cabinet door dampers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ Again, you're on your own to research a brand/style. But they sell them at big box stores too.
​
Edit:
Bathroom fan timer switch or humidity based. Either get one with button for 10 20 30 whatever min run time, so you can let your bathroom vent humidity out after a shower. Or one that auto turns on at X% humidity. All sold in big box stores.
Dropping this here just in case..
Obviously, actual soft close hinges are ideal, but we hope to redo our kitchen in the next few years, so I didn't want to go thru the hassle or cost of replacing all the current hinges. So I installed these instead: https://smile.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ
They work much better than I expected.
Again, yes, hinges are far better. But these are super easy on time and money. Cheers.
I installed a few of the Door Reinforcement Locks and they're amazing. We tested one on a remodel, we used sledge hammers in order to get in, but it wasn't what broke first, it was the hinges that gave... But it took a lot of time, enough time for someone at home to call the police, lock and load.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-11126-Blocker-Anodize/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3Y2DCYCAVSDCA023P28
I've had this and this in my Amazon shopping cart for months now. As soon as my wife and I find the house we want to buy, and move out of our rental, I'm purchasing both and installing them forthwith.
I use this for lockers and this for my storage unit.
Careful, that listing is only for ONE lock (BLUE). American Locks are hard to find on Amazon.ca. Amazon.com (US) has them for $10 each and ships to Canada (or if near the border, find a friend to ship to and pick up):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MG09E8
This is not a mat suggestion, but if you are interested in reducing noise, here is something that worked for me. I put these dampers under each leg of my Kurt Kinetic trainer and they work great to prevent vibration from transferring into the floor.
You might be able to use these in conjuction with a mat.
That's so the tenant doesn't complain about not having their preferred type of lock (usually bar/chain, knob, and dead bolt), not because it makes the door significantly more secure.
If you want a really secure door you need to reinforce the area around the door knob + deadbolt and use one of the long striker plate + dead bolt plates that screws throughout a significant portion of the door jamb. More locks doesn't help significantly.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GWF2R70&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&th=1 and this https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&psc=1&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail .
or if you're not wanting to spend quite that much https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D2K33NG&pd_rd_r=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&pd_rd_w=jqrLM&pd_rd_wg=96nb6&psc=1&refRID=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31AjDUX1GIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail and https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&psc=1&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
If you have a solid door you can make it prohibitive to break just with the longer striker plate and screws that reach deep into the 2x4s on the other side of the jamb.
The soft close hinges are kind of expensive. I used these in my kitchen.
Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lACxCb1PZKEKB
For your own home, I think something like this would be better.
Sincerely,
Richard Nixon
You can of course just hang the plant on the wall. There are also some pretty awesome no damage wall hangers. No screws at all used for these.
They are also available in different shapes and sizes for potentially attaching it to the ceiling. My sister used these for paintings on a stud wall. Worked well and it's super easy to remove!
If it was a piece of machinery I'd have gone for a foam pad like this. Ideally that's what you'd stick between the source of the vibration and the ground. But it should work for your bed.
You can get puck shaped rubber feet too.
Depending on the vibration you'll want a different hardness. As this is just transmitted vibrations, these may be a little stiff, but might be worth a go.
I can't really vouch for either of these items in particular. And they do seem to report a bit hit and miss with the reviews. I suppose the hard part will be making sure that your bed stays on top of them and doesn't crush the material they've made from.
Also, make sure you don't have the bed against the wall, because the vibrations will be transmitted up that too.
If you want a low tech solution, cut tennis balls in half and stuff them with a firm foam.
Yep, it's about continuous usage, but also keep in mind that articles with suggested time limits for nipple clamps always seem to err on the safe side by an extreme margin. I've had clover clamps on for 1hr+. It was fine.
People's bodies are going to react differently, and also different types of clamps will cut off circulation at very different rates (i.e. these vs. these vs. these vs. these [NSFW], etc.)
Just take them off if you're turning purple or becoming numb; don't worry too much about specific time limits. Honestly I've never heard of someone getting injured from using nipple clamps for too long. In the grand scheme of BDSM safety concerns, it's pretty low on the list.
No clue if this is going to be helpful, but I agree that those clamps will rust if they live outside and I'd like to provide some ideas from a campers perspective, as we like hanging tarps. All of these options need some small rope/paracord/bungeecord/whatever and something like an stainless eyelet screwed into the post, though they end up being simpler mechanically and easier to adjust.
Edit: fixed the last link
Good luck!
Bought these in 2013, still solid
14" Keyboard Slide, 3/4 Extension, Steel (Set of 2) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHFRUHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.8t0AbEMA4Q60
Two 1x3s cut to your drawer depth. 2 or more 1" wooden dowels cut to your drawer width minus 1". Using a forstner bit drill 1/2" deep evenly spaced holes in the 1x3s for your dowels to live in. Predrill holes for screws into the 1x3s and dowels then glue and screw it all together. Be sure to sink the screws into the 1x3s so that the heads are flush with the wood. You should now have what looks like a short ladder. Then using a keyboard slider (https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Slide-Extension-Steel-Set/dp/B00AHFRUHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=keyboard+slider&qid=1574801152&sr=8-6) you can mount the ladder you made to the slider and then the slider rails to the bed. Easy 30 min project that will cost $30.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-4180-Door-Lock-Out-Device/dp/B00BOZBDK6/
Add these
https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HH9PZAHVK79YMX24J3RR
Today I ordered a couple locks from Amazon that are pretty cheap. The Abus 80TI/50 (green belt) is $13.11 right now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G7P3FYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1520483379&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Abus
I also ordered an American 1106 (blue belt) for $9.87
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015MG09E8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YDTCDD4HSFGP6KAZBZ5H
I wanted to get a few locks that are progressively harder to practice on and learn more about security pins, found good prices on these and couldn't pass them up.
I have the august smart lock and have been very happy with it. I chose that over the others for a few reasons
Pros:
Cons
> My husband and I are closing on our first home next month (yay!) and we know one of the first things to do is change the locks. A smartlock is very appealing but I'm having trouble deciding which one is best for us, because it seems the more I research the less certain I am. I also have a couple questions.
Ah, the perks of home ownership: feeling optimistic and creative, with a blank canvas in front of you. I envy you both!
Let me tell you why you should be considering the August Smart Lock brand of locks. I will post a small blurb on my contextual background and specific situation (which I posted elsewhere), then briefly mention the possible choices you have, and then respond to your list of requirements and setup,
 
 
PART I: CONTEXT
I am a renter; so obviously a lot of what I have to say may seem irrelevant. Seeing as I do not have a lot of creative control over the property, this would make smart locks tricky business. However, my landlord gave me permissions to replace the entire deadbolt, if I wanted. So, the first set of requirements were drafted as:
MUSTS:
WANTS:
So, my research began, in earnest. It consumed me. Off the bat, the first names to pop up were August, Kwikset, Schlage and Yale.
Of those, three had keypad options, which became a requirement soon after. Despite the perks of the Kwikset Kevo (the touch to open), I removed it from the list.
Also, despite the fiance having an iPhone, I had an Android, so the lock had to have equal footing mobile phone ecosystem-independent. That removed things like Schlage Sense and other Homekit-only options.
The final list:
I did a ton of cross referencing, reviews websites, pros and cons, etc etc. And CONSISTENTLY, the August locks were ranked #1/#2/#3. I won't go into too much more detail on what those websites and reviews indicated, I trust you guys can do that research.
But, in the end, the August locks were exactly what we needed, AND more. They were going to be the easiest to set up, and the best out of the gate. So we went with them, and haven't looked back since. My fiance, a "smart-home-always-listening" skeptic, casually told me yesterday how awesome she finds the smart lock.
 
 
PART II: THE LINEUP
So, what options to choose from?
Pros: Most up to date, improved tech under the hood, Z-Wave Plus compatible, Door Sense, most smart home integrations available, Auto lock/unlock
Cons: Most expensive
Pros: Improved tech under the hood from the previous generation, Door Sense, Auto lock/unlock, traditional form factor, Cheaper
Cons: No useful smart home integrations (missing homekit, alexa/echo, google home, z wave)
To compare the above two, go here: http://august.com/keyless-entry/
Pros: Most cost effective ($125, but last week it was $109!) but still ranked #1 on MANY reputable websites (CNET | PCMag | etc), has built-in HomeKit capability, can be enhanced with additional devices
Cons: Least impressive underlying tech, no Door Sense capability, no effective smart home integrations
 
"Door Sense": The ability to detect "Door open" / "Door Closed" situation.
 
An Aside : Enhancement Products
This keypad adds in the functionality that you'd expect:
-- keyless code entry for guests (unlimited codes, managed via the app)
-- Lock it with a button press
-- Attachable for preferred outside entry
 
This device enables you to link your otherwise-bluetooth-range-only smart lock to your wifi, effectively allowing you to connect and manage the smart lock from ANYWHERE that you have network connectivity. With it, you can:
-- Remotely lock/unlock your door
-- Receive alerts on any actions taken on your door remotely
-- have faster access to your lock as your app selects the best connection to use
 
PART 2.5: BUNDLES/SALE
Consider price-watching for sales; I saw the 2nd gen for, like $109...
Personally, I jumped when the Smart Lock Pro + Wifi bridge bundle went on sale for $229 (same price as the lock itself), and the keypad was $55, on Amazon.
 
 
PART III : Why the August Locks work for your situation (below)
> can be defeated with a screwdriver? jfc. I'd best be doing some research on worthwhile upgrades.
yup. but the weak link is the door jamb something like this will delay a break in but nothing stops a determined thief.
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70
I use this. $500 guarantee if your door gets kicked in
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70
hinge pins here
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4WMZJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>There is no legal precedent on how the room must be constructed that I'm aware of, but common sense dictates that you go to reasonable lengths to make it difficult to break into. That would include an exterior door (solid core and steel doors would suffice) and a dead bolt at minimum. I would also recommend reinforcing the door frame.
Thank you, this is exactly what I'm looking for, I'm going with a steel door, with a proper deadbolt with something like https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01GWF2R70/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GGV9M5HB2RYXMYAECK7D&dpPl=1&dpID=51N7tq2kyNL with the plaster reinforced with plywood.
>
>If the room is a safe, it could be argued that you could store loose ammo in the same room as the firearms but IANAL. To answer your question, though, yes the ammo can be put into a locked safe, cabinet, or ammo can inside the room.
I kind of figured, but since I'll have an empty safe, better safe than sorry.
Personally, I'd just grab a set of leveling legs.
For any of your metal tools, coat them in a layer of oil to protect them from the moisture. Just spray some wd-40 into a shop rag and wipe them down with it if you don't have anything fancier. Old tools with some rust can mostly be recovered with persistence, but you want to keep them from getting worse. New tools you'll want to oil as well, and keep in a toolbox or similar.
I just bought these levelers with the plan of using them with my workbench to both get a level surface and to keep the posts off the ground. Getting the wood off the floor will definitely help slow any rot. You could also try weatherproofing/sealing the lower part of the legs on your bench, but it may be too late for the existing legs.
If you're going to be storing boards and other wood stock in the garage, I'd definitely suggest at least a canopy cover for your stack, given how leaky the garage sounds.
Is the door with the gaps the overhead garage door, or a regular swing door to the outside? If it's a swing door, you could replace both the door and frame somewhat easily and all your gaps would go away. Harder than replacing a broken piece of glass in a window, but easier than replacing an entire window frame.
Those rubber door stops are okay but really are for holding doors open. An actual door-jammer though...that'll stop the door from being opened and it won't cause any damage on your part. They'd literally have to kick the door in or take it off the hinges.
This would improve my way of life, because instead of random mops and brooms being thrown in the utility closet, they would all have their place in this mop/broom organizer.
I love your username. It's an important message all on its own.
It's not romantic or funny- just practical for my new house. Broom Hook
https://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B003IMJ3S2
Calculate the mass of your printer and get the appropriate durometer feet. Isolating the printer's vibrations from the table it is on / the frame of the building helps significantly.
My Dual CS-5000 is crazy vibration prone so a wall mounted shelf was my best option. Opted for a sandwich of two 3/4" hardwood ply boards with sorbothane hemispheres in between. Works like a charm.
http://imgur.com/T0TFm6L
I have seen French Clete's used at work. They are really strong aren't going to vibrate. You can use one at the top of the speaker and one at the bottom. The one I am linking to at Amazon can be cut in half. The are also pretty available. Michael's craft store and wood working stores carry them.
OOK 55316 13-Piece Up to 200 Pound Hangman French Cleat with Hardware
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WE9XU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PmBpxbZNV7ECG
People should begin to sense a theme - They're from Ikea. I believe they are meant to be used vertically, but I mounted a french cleat to the back of both of them and attached them to the walls (make sure they're hitting at least 1 stud). I'm obviously not afraid of them falling down.
If you're looking for more inspiration, I clicked through a few thousand pictures on the lifehacker workspace flickr. I'm sure if you do they same, you'll find the spaces that inspired mine.
If you do come up with something - be sure to share it!
Nah. I thought the holes gave it a rustic look, and honestly I don’t notice them unless I’m looking really close. It is rather heavy. Maybe 50# or so, but I wanted the thickness to deter warping. If you go any thinner I feel like the wood would bow more over time.
I hung it up with a French cleat mount I got from amazon. Only $13! It’s very secure and does the job well.
French Cleat on Amazon
There are even cleats for sale commercially: http://www.amazon.com/OOK-13-Piece-Hangman-French-Hardware/dp/B003WE9XU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453132554&sr=8-1&keywords=wall+cleat
It'd take a routed cavity in the slab to make it flush mount, but yeah, eminently doable.
Use a low-profile metal french cleat setup. If you can catch two studs with the cleat on the wall you'll be fine. Make the cleat on the wall a few inches short so you can adjust the vanity a bit either way to get it centered. You can drive a screw or two through the vanity to make sure it doesn't pop off the cleat.
These
https://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Hardware-9965-SurfaceGard-Self-Adhesive/dp/B0007GFC46/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Stick-Glass-Protective-Pads-Pkg-Clear/dp/B004BPQMV6
might also work as substitutes. I searched for clear rubber pads.
That's normal. You just need to lift your hand a bit sometimes. What I did was put a little sticker on my W key - similarly to what P1SONET said about getting lost and the F key has a little bump on it, I use the sticker with my fingertips to find the W key and get back into position. With heavy use, it comes off sometimes but I just put a new one on and it works great for me.
https://www.amazon.com/New-Image-Group-30370-Protective/dp/B004BPQMV6/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004BPQMV6&pd_rd_r=GD5PD2K7KE1N7E551BE6&pd_rd_w=TGsqt&pd_rd_wg=o360T&psc=1&refRID=GD5PD2K7KE1N7E551BE6 something like this is what I used - clear so I can still see the letter through the thing, and small enough to not get in the way for normal typing
If you have a compatible zwave hub, and don't need the bluetooth entry, you may want to consider one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-910-Traditional-Electronic-Compatibility/dp/B013KZRTTG/
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
I just use Zwave keypad locks. Walk up, punch in a code.
like:
Since it's Z-wave you can also add it to your home automation software.
If you're familiar with home assistant (the software I use to control the z-wave network) it has a concept of presence, so you can create a person and associate them with an item (such as phone mac from wifi client list) to use as a conditional. So I can do things like set the lock to unlocked whenever I am home, and auto-lock it if I leave the house. For me it's a garage / house door, rather than a lab room or office, but the idea is the same.
All of the doors I use on a daily basis are keyless. The rest I keep in a lockbox.
I have the Kwikset Z-Wave door lock.
And I use the Samsung SmartThings hub to control it. Set up a custom door lock manager provided by the community and I am able to set up to 30 codes. Have codes only valid on certain days, etc.
It's pretty easy to set up.
There's also a Schlage one. I know people who use the August one.
Edit: Apparently Kwik makes some too.
That would work. These are the combinations that I have used:
Hub: Vera Edge Hub or Wink Hub or Wink Hub 2
Lock: Schlage Connect Deadbolt and Schlage Connect Leverlock
Batteries last about 6-8 months in the deadbolt and >1 year in the leverlock.
No problem! :)
Oh and just a few things to add:
Watch some videos on how to set up hammock and tarps. shugmery is an old youtuber who's an entertainer by trade, so he makes fun upbeat videos that aren't boring to watch.
Also in case you forget the knots that you learn to get the tarp to stay in place on the ridgeline (that one line to hang the tarp that goes from tree A to tree B) get these really cheap tarp clips for $5: https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6268-Tarp-Clips-4-Piece/dp/B00A50NB24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468442049&sr=8-1&keywords=tarp+clip
You can have the tarp in diamond/triangle formation, two ends secured to the ground (with pegs that come with all tarp purchases for free), and then the two ends that are hanging on the line you can just clip in place with the clips (which uses screws to tighten, not merely by clipping).
Be sure to bring cordage, which I assume you have, if not you can get 50 feet for like $5, or 100 feet for $10: https://www.amazon.com/Paracord-Planet-Mil-Spec-Commercial-Orange/dp/B00ACL4KJO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1468442435&sr=1-2&keywords=paracord
DO NOT get 25 feet, because they still charge you $5 like for 50 feet, lol.
Sorry to add about $15 to your budget :)
Tarp clips (e.g. these on Amazon), kitchen implements (e.g. spatulas), plastic or metal rulers, belts, bondage tape, clothespins, rubber bands.
I got these.
Here is something to help - not sure of the legality. You might still need a wedge when you are home, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-4180-Door-Lock-Out-Device/dp/B00BOZBDK6
Actually, I read what you posted in r/legal advice. You got a lot of good advice there. Don't play games with this disturbed person. Get yourselves out of the condo and go NC.
MIL is irrational, and won't react like a normal person. Keep a log of all of her bizarre behavior - you may need it someday for a restraining order.
This is incorrect. Most deadbolts in homes go into trim and little else and burglars are well aware of this (and kick them in with ease). Front doors are the most common entry point for burglaries. It's also why installing one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10385-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485109062&sr=8-2&keywords=security+strike+plate with LONG screws that go into the 2x4's is one of the best security investments any homeowner can make.
They're a bit ugly, but soft-close dampeners will do that.
Get a front door that doesnt have a window, or has a very small window. You can also get a door with a steel core and no windows for added security.
​
If you have any first floor windows, plant thorny bushes in front of them and keep them at window height to discourage entry through a window. Yes someone can still get over a thorny bush, but its going to create an additional time and inconvenience for them when breaking in, as compared to a non-thorny bush, or a window with no bush at all. The point of all of this and the following is just to increase the time it will take for a successful entry, burglars arent (too) stupid, and will pick softer targets than you that they think they can get in, and get out of quickly. Their ideal home is one where no one is home, the entry is easy, and they can grab items of value and get out in under 4 minutes. If the door takes 6 minutes to kick down, its not going to work. If they can't bump the lock, or cut through glass on the door to unlock from the inside, its not going to work. If they can't quite reach the window with their cutting tool because of the thorny bush, and they have to cover it with a jacket and awkwardly climb over, its not going to work. You want them to be forced to make noise to enter, while slowing their time to enter. Noise can alert neighbors if you're not home, and if you are home it can give you time to chamber a round in your rifle, turn the optic on, put on your electronic ear protection etc. That way you can have fun instead of quickly grabbing your pistol off the nightstand because its the only gun you keep in condition 1/0. You want time to prepare, and you want to know they're coming. Everything below is centered around slowing down thieves and home invaders and making their entry louder.
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Consider the following products.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GWF2R70/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
Installed around the door frame this steel lining makes it EXTREMELY difficult to kick down or batter down a locked door, and also isn't visible.
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZD8S8G/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XQ9YU/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
If you don't have a very secure door lock, you may consider one of these two products as they prevent burglars from "lock bumping," which is a common lock-picking technique for people who have the typical door locks that you can buy at home depot etc. and aren't very secure.
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3FJQSA/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
Another way to combat lock-bumping is to buy a very secure door lock like a medeco, the keys required to lock bump a medeco are far rarer than those to bump a home depot lock, and most burglars simply don't have them.
​
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d
Last but not least a metal door re-enforcer can stop a door from being kicked in if the steel frame and lock are defeated, but I think this product is overkill if you already have a steel frame and high quality lock.
​
Also consider a gun in case some does manage to get past all of this. However, despite being a gun owner, I don't really think owning one is necessary, as it is a last resort. Most forced entry is done through the door or windows, once you secure those, you simply need to be vigilant when entering and exiting your house. Have a camera or peep-hole to see who's there before you open the door, if you can't see them or they don't answer, don't open the door. Most home invasions depend on the home owner opening the door and allowing entry or upon someone kicking the door lock in. While most burglars are dependent on lock-picking, broken windows, or entry through windows. A burglar will run if they think someone is home or that someone might spot/hear them. A home invader is hoping someone is home
​
When coming home, don't unlock your car doors until the garage is closed and be vigilant for someone on foot following you in as you park. When departing the home do the opposite. Keep the door to your house from your garage locked as well.
​
Don't display wealth or possessions outside of the home. Some people think those signs that say Secured by .45 or whatever with a gun depicted on them scare burglars. But really all it says is that "when I'm not home there are probably guns here for you to steal." Guns, Jewelry, Cash, and to a lesser extent electronics are going to be targets for burglars, and signs like that advertise that at least one of those things will be inside to be worth stealing.
There is a different kind of safety lock that takes up absolutely no room. Both chain locks and door latch type of lock (that are in hotels nowadays) can easily be thwarted. They are essentially privacy locks. I haven't seen this kind be opened yet (though I'm sure there is some way). https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI You should be able to find it on your amazon. There's even a little video showing how it opens and closes.
And yeah, locks are ridiculously pricey. They do sell non-smart locks with a keypad that allows you to change the code. https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE595VCAM619ACC-Camelot-Keypad-Flex-Lock/dp/B001GPL5WU Again, this is not a smart lock, it can't do anything wirelessly, you can't unlock it from your phone, etc. It has "auto lock"and "flex lock" you can choose. Buy an auto lock and the door is always locked so you leave the house and the door locks. Buy a flex lock and you can turn it so that it's a regular door knob, when you leave the house it's not locked (great for when you have visitors over or if the person buying has kids going in and out of the house). But this might be a good option for you, the keypad that can change at your whim without the price of a smart lock.
Pick the American 1100 for a blue belt. Amazon has it in yellow for $9.68. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_evtJzb30VMHB0
For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.
The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.
Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.
Good luck!
I was looking at some that keep your existing dead bolt in place, but replaces the interior pad. That way you can use your key, but can also unlock it from your phone/ auto unlocks when you get close.
But it's battery powered and I'd imagine moving a dead bolt that often uses them up pretty quickly.
https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-2nd-Generation/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501194479&sr=8-4&keywords=smart%2Bdoo
I bought a couple of kits online and have been learning how everything works and going from there. Are you interested in learning from the ground up? Or are you more specifically trying to complete 1 or 2 projects and be done?
Edit: https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/turn-your-pi-into-a-low-cost-hd-surveillance-cam/
This page talks about making a low cost security camera using the Raspberry Pi and camera module, which is motion activated using the camera. Here is the link to the actual project. https://www.codeproject.com/articles/665518/raspberry-pi-as-low-cost-hd-surveillance-camera.
Unlocking a door would probably be a little complicated. You'd need a physical device that can move the lock, so servos and whatever else, which I don't know much of anything about. Something would have to move, though. You'd also have to trust the security of that door. I had considered buying one of these https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-Latest-Generation/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482266351&sr=8-2&keywords=smart+door+lock , but I read that they sometimes unlock themselves randomly. I imagine the Raspberry Pi would have it's own security vulnerabilities for something as important as a lock.
However, if you weren't worried about being absolutely secure. You could most likely purchase something along these lines that you would activate with some code.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Electronic-Door-Lock-Rfid-Access-Control-for-Cabinet-Drawer-hangslot-met-nummer-verrous-combination-locks/32639649761.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10065_10068_10084_10083_10080_10082_10081_10060_10061_10062_10056_10055_10054_10059_10099_10078_10079_427_10073_10103_10102_10096_10052_10050_10051,searchweb201603_2&btsid=6a3e15ec-5155-4fa9-a461-4103a4d08e4d
Editedit: That last link says it's 12V, you'd probably need some sort of power converter for it as I don't think the Raspberry Pi can do that.
They make rubberized feet that'll fit on a 4x4 table leg. I think my father grabbed these at a local wood working store, but I bet Home Depot or Lowes would offer something.
Pic of my table showing what I'm talking about.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/64462769@N06/jCrn97
​
Or you could grab a heavy duty leveler... but it may not look as nice since it'll be visible.
https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Capacity-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B01N4BUE1P/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BKJ2ZYVMXNJSNRCRKW4J
​
Command Picture Hanging Strips, Decorate Damage-Free, 18 pairs (36 strips), Ships In Own Container (PH202-18NA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XS3CHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B2eyDbVGX5AS2
I buy the small cuz it's more than enough surface area and cheaper
They definitely are bright enough to light up a room. The latest update to the Nanoleaf app/panels also comes with a few default white light settings and you can access a white light color palette when setting up a scene in the app.
For the adhesives issue you could aways test the adhesive strips on a less frequently seen part of your wall. The box comes with extra 3M adhesive strips, so you can afford to use a few as a test. Personally I use a velcro version of the strips, which were pretty helpful if you want to be able to easily move around the panels. The adhesive parts are the same though.
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-18-Pairs-PH202-18NA/dp/B073XS3CHW/
A good resource may be to look on 3M's website, as they offer advice/FAQs on how to install command strips in order to avoid damaging your walls: https://www.command.com/3M/en_US/command/contact-us/faqs/
Personally I've used command strips as well as mounting tape to hang items to walls. Mounting tape usually offers a more secure hold, but always damages paint when removed. 3M command strips usually easily remove without any lasting marks.... as long as you remove it properly by pulling the tab on the strip.
Sure thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Decorate-Damage-Free-Container-PH202-18NA/dp/B073XS3CHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3m+velcro+command+strips&qid=1575074074&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM0NMRVNDQ0JSQloxJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTkwMjI2MjgySFBSRDVFSFNWTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzkyNzQxMVMxMzU3NlRIRVFLRiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
So the interface stays put even when plugging in headphones?
And these are what you used?
Command Picture Hanging Strips, Small, White, 18-Pairs (PH202-18NA) - Easy to Open Packaging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XS3CHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c52Yzb7FF5H6J
If you’re interested in a smart lock, you could consider an August lock. You would install it over your existing deadbolt mechanism on the inside of the door. You can then lock/unlock using the August app, Siri, Alexa, and more. You can set it to auto-lock when you close the door.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752V8D8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W5y2Cb7G931W3
I just bought the August smart lock+connect on Amazon. It was on sale then got a 20% off coupon. Made it $170 before tax. It's great, no subscription. Uses existing lock and can still use key if you want. I'd highly recommend it. August Smart Lock Pro + Connect,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752V8D8D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Edit: looks like the price went up.
I have the August Smart Lock Pro with Connect and it's been pretty handy. I have it unlocking my door as I pull up to my house and since I have it connected to my smart lights via IFTTT, the patio and indoor lights will turn on when it's dark.
August Smart Lock Pro with hub for $149
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752V8D8D/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Vocolinc Light Strip $27.99
https://www.amazon.com/VOCOlinc-Multicolor-Adjustable-Assistant-SmartGlow/dp/B07QNNW1Y6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=homekit&psr=EY17&qid=1574962061&s=black-friday&smid=A2924Q9PJ7SHQ8&sr=1-2
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WeMo Smart Plug $15.99
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1311456-REG/wemo_f7c063_wemo_mini_smart_plug.html
I live alone in Chicago, in a two-flat with one neighbor above me. I live on the north side but I'm right by Humboldt Park, it can seem less safe than some of the other neighborhoods. We have a security door before getting to my door, but it could be easily kicked in. Literally, sometimes my front door just opens up..if I don't lock my top lock, multiple times my neighbor has called my name like "your front door is open." Nevertheless, I'm not too scared of living alone, mostly because I thrive so much as a person who lives by myself.
For some of the ladies who may not be able to afford just living in a nicer (read: gentrified) neighborhood & isn't a dog person...here's what I do.
​
I take some extra measures to ensure I keep myself safe...piece of mind, ya know:
-My doors are locked at all times, even when I'm in the house.
-I made friends with all of my neighbors, especially the guy who lives upstairs...he checks on me from time to time, has heard me scream out of something very non-threatening and came down to check.
-I have a metal baseball bat right by my bed (like $18)
-I just got a doorknob jammer that's supposed to not be able to be kicked in, haven't installed yet but $19 - https://www.amazon.com/Securityman-Adjustable-Jammer-Sliding-Security/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=sr_1_15?crid=16ZTTE1VZNAE4&keywords=front+door+security+bar&qid=1563477497&s=gateway&sprefix=front+door+secuir%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-15#customerReviews
-I've met a majority of the cops within my area. I'll bake them cakes from time to time, the closest station is less than a mile away...this is so unnecessary but I love to bake and it gives me peace...can't confirm they would get to my place any faster if anything happens.
​
:)
If your lease doesn't allow you to make the change to the locks yourself, consider adding a secondary means to secure your door such as one of these
I spy with my little eye. (And your contest is better than any other currently running I SPY related things, /u/186394.)
Wall Organizer
Thanks for the contest! This was fun!
So first off you'll need this sign so there's never any misunderstanding about the house rules.
You'll need these multifunctional pillows.
A full barbeque set of accessories because it will make grilling life easier.
A manly looking comforter set
One of these wall racks because it's really annoying when they keep falling over.
Hey congrats on your new home!
This wall organizer would help loads with brooms and mops and what not!
futz
Thanks for the contest!
Mischief Managed!
Wine -- flask for sneaking butterbeer into class so I can win the Defense Against the Dark Arts duels. >_>
A broom -- organizer so I can keep all my brooms tidily stored and make points with /u/dragonflyjen, the Flying Instructor. =D
A hat -- for the Tin Man, because I want him as my lab partner in Potions, to use his parts, err brain, for the exams, because /u/rarelyserious, the Potions Master values ingenuity like that. <_<
A book -- the start of one, anyway, being a children's book I have in mind, for the History of Magic project /u/Morthy will assign.
A trunk -- a teeny-tiny one that allows me to hide myself in music and charm the Magical Creatures in /u/Stefanienee's class.
A cape -- on a pint glass, because it can be used to insulate warm beverages for the night Astronomy classes taught by /u/tandem7!
Mischief Managed! =D
Rockstar
I would love this wall organizer.
Thank you for the contest!
From my Under 10 WL, I NID DIS I RLY RLY DO! I've got a bucket (yes, a bucket) that I am putting all my mops, brooms, shovels, rakes and stuff in and it falls over all the time and UGH I like things to be organized! Thanks for the contest darling!
Quinn !!!
http://www.amazon.com/Evriholder-Magic-Holder-5-Position-Organizer/dp/B0002V37ZM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=3CGAVDBZQ3D4B&amp;coliid=I1S6UA3CTUUMZD
Thanks for the contest!
I'm using these for the feet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IMJ3S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FCzwxbQR7D42P
I also have a set of ninja flex ones. They are not completely noise dampening, but my noise requirement are different from most people's. I'll push the STLs today or tomorrow for those. I believe there was another guy here that did the feet in OpenSCAD for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Sorbothane-Hemisphere-Non-Skid-Adhesive-Durometer/dp/B003IMJ3S2/
4 under each speaker
Of course, here are the ones I purchased. You have to be careful to get the right weight load for your speakers or equipment.
So, would something like this be much more appropriate? They come in multiple diameters depending on the weight of the item you are attaching them to.
Is this the same idea as using sorbothane balls? I suppose isolating the turntable might be more cost effective, I was also looking into the audio engine stands, but really not sure how effective those would be. Would vibrations from the speakers on the turntable actually be noticeable?
Thanks for the response :)
Have you considered ook hooks and an aluminum French cleat tv mount? Ook’s heavy duty hooks are rated for 100lbs each and don’t require studs.
I know they don’t look like much, but I’ve hung heavy TVs and large mirrors with ook hooks for years with no issue.
For TVs I use the tv side of the mount from this: https://hangmanproducts.com/products/no-stud-tv-hanger?variant=286515704
And two of these: OOK 50446 4 Pack 100 Lb Padded Professional Picture Hanger, Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FM46Y9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lr20Bb83CA54M
Apparently ook makes a French cleat now: OOK 55316 13-Piece Up to 200 Pound Hangman French Cleat with Hardware https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WE9XU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7n20BbP9PGMZX
EDIT: This assumes you always want the tv to be flat to the wall
You could use a french cleat:
https://www.amazon.com/OOK-13-Piece-Hangman-French-Hardware/dp/B003WE9XU4
Here is how it works:
https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/g2340/how-to-build-a-french-cleat-shelf/
No, I ended up using two brackets like this and managed to get it into a few studs. Foolishly, I bought a cheap piece of fiberboard as my backing, but it was insanely heavy and I was a bit worried about it falling down. So I went a bit overboard with the mount haha.
Here's what i use. They stick to the bottom and the console "sticks" more to the table thus not sliding like coins or soda caps could. They've been working great!
I'll take a picture when I'm home later.
Amazon Protective Pads
It's a rubber pad that goes in between the glass top and the metal frame of the TORSBY table. I need to replace the ones on my table and don't know what to call them and I can't find them on any IKEA replacement part sites.
EDIT:
bought some of these:https://www.amazon.com/Stick-Glass-Protective-Pads-Pkg-Clear/dp/B004BPQMV6
might also work as substitutes. I searched for clear rubber pads. THANKS
Are you talking about something like this?
If you've left it in the sun or in a hot room for too long it might have flexed a little but rather check if it wobbles on another flat surface before jumping to conclusions, could just be the table.
In either case you could always get yourself some of these or these to try and even it out :)
The counter tops are just resting on the Alex units but with some rubber pads. The pads that came with the units were terrible though, didn't stick in place and the desk pulled them off. I got some of these from amazon which are meant to work with glass tops. The desk doesnt move anywhere now.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004BPQMV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then there are some Olov adjustable legs in the corner.
Its very easy now. Get one of these controllers and then one of these zwave door locks. Use this free android app to control it.
Not that I want to discourage sales, and this is just a quick price check, but one smarthome.com item, after a 22% discount, is still 23% more than the amazon.com item. Another, after 22% off, is still 8.5% more than Amazon.
perhaps. I installed the locks 5+ years ago. Just found the z-wave cards a month ago.
edit - I found exactly what I ended up with
https://www.amazon.ca/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HG2E5Z6VB6AHH4V991KF
keypad and auto lock was the key requirement at the time of purchase as I had a toddler that liked to open the door if it wasn't deadbolted. the key pads have been really useful compared to using a key to open it.
We use one from Schlage and have never had a problem with it. Although there is a small monthly fee. http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE599NX-CAM-619-ACC/dp/B0083GJ17G?tag=ama-prod-id-20
I’m not a host (I’m a guest), but in my own home I have one of the Schlage keyless locks. It locks immediately and is programmable. It’s great.
I’ve been looking to upgrade it to one that will integrate with my home alarm system and be programmable on my phone. I’ve been keeping my eye out for sales on the Schlage FE599NX because it does both, and is basically otherwise exactly the same.
I don’t like the locks that wait 30 or 60 seconds to engage without pressing some button. I want it fully automatic and locked instantly. This one does that.
I think keypads would be better. Harder for people to lose numbers and just as easy to administer access. More secure too.
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10798
http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE599NX-CAM-619-ACC/dp/B0083GJ17G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452903190&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=schlage+z-wave+door+lock
Schlage Z-Wave Home Keypad Lever FE599NX with the Abode Security and Home Automation Hub.
Yes depending on a cell phone can be the wrong way to go. But the pin code one seems really good. . It allows me to generate a 4 digit code so I can email it to my guests.
This is the one I'm considering Schlage FE599NX CAM 619 ACC 619 Home Keypad Lever with Z-Wave Technology, Satin Nickel http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083GJ17G
And having a Realtor style lock box hidden somewhere as a backup
cheaper alternative someone recommended on an astronomy forum: https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-JB6368-Anti-Vibration-Pads/dp/B008GUYZWK/
I haven't used these, so I can't tell how effective these are.
One option is to try to reduce the noise at the source.
You could buy a set of these for each machine and see how much that reduces the noise
https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-JB6368-Anti-Vibration-Pads/dp/B008GUYZWK
A rug probably couldn't hurt either. Another option if you want to throw some money at it are rubber or foam isolation pads. Amazon sells some: Vibrapod - Isolator Isolation Feet - $24 and Ideaworks JB6368 S/4 Anti Vibration Pads - $5, there are a few more options as well. They may or may not work but they might be worth a shot.
I'm using ones similar to these with a sticky back. Make sure the console is level, too as that helps tremendously with noise.
I prop my ps4 up on 4 of these guys. They're excellent for airflow under the console.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GUYZWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks for the reply! I've already done this, as per my post. The ones I bought from Amazon aren't stopping the vibrations, though. Do you have any recommendations from ones that will definitely stop the vibrations?
These are the ones that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GUYZWK/
Thanks for all the info. How do you secure the under quilt? I was thinking of getting those clip things and using those plus para-cord to hold it up
Ball Bungees to secure tapestries/sheets to the EZ up
I use these clips on the bottom of the sheet and then I use a length of paracord to tie it to a plastic stake which keeps it in place.
Weights filled with sand to keep it all on the ground and out of the next lot
Are you using a tarp clip in the center? I haven't been brave enough to use those clips on my silnylon tarps. It looks like this.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6268-Tarp-Clips-4-Piece/dp/B00A50NB24/
You can buy some sliders and some wood from a hardware store
14" Keyboard Slide, 3/4 Extension, Steel (Set of 2) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AHFRUHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PK7dAbZHPA587
I did this for a smaller keyboard but should be able to accommodate a piano. Check out the user gallery on Amazon and similar products
https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Slide-Extension-Steel-Set/dp/B00AHFRUHE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VK085B067MNX13MMPGEP
Install these sliding racks and a piece of nice oak or a hardwood of your choice under the desk. To the right of your shifter is one mounting point and the leg on the left is the other. Then you'll have an easy to use pull out drawer to put both your keyboard and mouse on.
IMO the best solution is to build a quickie driving rig with a junkyard seat. You can have all the wood cut at Lowe's, home depot, or menard's if you have your measurements sheet. The seat should cost around 10 bucks on half off day or 20 at the worst (most pull your own yards have this and black friday is coming up when they have 75% off for one day.) For about the same price as a name brand keyboard rack you can have a nice custom rig.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=buhFEla7Lq4
This youtube video is pretty close to what I mean. It's a little fancier than mine but it's around the same price plus he gets a ton of close-ups and explains the build fairly well. You can build a nice little PC rack on the side to keep everything looking crispy for when you start streaming :)
EDIT: wrong link
You don't need to completely avoid using it, but switch immediately to the other hand if there's discomfort.
Another reminder:
Make sure your wrist is neutral (no flexion or extension).
http://i.imgur.com/vypL53j.gif
In regards to feeling discomfort when you're resting your wrist on the table:
Unless you're so close to the table where your elbow is on the surface, I think that there's some exertion required to keep your wrist on the surface.
An example of a bad position would be if you're far away from the surface, and your wrists are hanging on the edge.
(That's why I'm eventually going to switch from a keyboard tray to an adjustable desk, and keyboard slide with a custom sized tray.
http://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Slide-Extension-Steel-Set/dp/B00AHFRUHE
I want more of my forearm on a surface, and a stock tray isn't deep enough.
I have a bad back, which is why I like stiff and non-adjustable chairs.
If you have an adjustable chair, then it should be fine since you can use a regular table
).
Find a better resting position for the right hand.
Try:
Maybe have more of your right forearm on the surface.
Have it the table, but don't rest it on a mouse (there's some wrist extension involved when it's on the mouse).
Have the right arm by your side.
Rather than standard drawer slides, I'd shop for top mount drawer slides like these on Amazon. These are sold as a keyboard mount, but you could simply mount them to your rack and be good to go.
For anyone that wants to know about the keyboard tray (I know most gamers hate them). This is the one I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHFRUHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and a black shelf from Ikea that matched my theme.
Extended Reflex 36x12 mousepad that I got from Amazon. The shelf I got is exactly that size and the mousepad fits like a glove
There are locks that fit over the knob too, something like this Prime-Line S 4180 Door Knob Lock-Out Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOZBDK6
This may work, but it's not foolproof.
The exact product you're describing is hard to come by because it's an extreme safety hazard -- you could permanently lock someone into a room.
Most people with this issue screw extra hardware to the door and then use a padlock like this. Note how when the lock is on, the screws to remove the hardware are covered.
Maybe try this sort of lock
Pretty sure reinforced catch/strikeplate. It's a step up from just a strike plate (decorative), and a step down from a high end reinforced strike plate.
I bought two of these for my house to solve your exact problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2K33NG/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G83iDbZV34G40
I don’t have any great suggestions for fixing the doors, but as far as installing slow close hardware I like these:
Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_221-Bb03M09E0
I installed them probably 3 years ago and they still work great, for a fraction of the cost of replacing the hinges with soft close hinges.
Reinforcement lock or the ol' fashioned bar stop are prob best bets for an apartment. The screw holes will be hidden in the door frame so probably won't be noticed on inspection if/when you remove it. The bar is a classic...both only work if you remember to set them though.
Running 1/4" shackle. I recommend getting 1" - 1.5" shackle length. Bought American Lock from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A1106YLW-Padlock-Aluminum/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510819926&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=american+lock
Had them all re-keyed so I just need 1 key so I didn't need to carry multiple keys to open one case.
If someone really wants to get in, they will. Lockers don’t hold big enough shackles for you to have much physical resistance, and someone could just break the cheap locker door or hinges regardless.
That being said, I agree with u/stab_in_the_eye. American 1100s are light, decently strong, impressively cheap, and will take some time and decent skill to pick (not astroturfing). They can be bought here, and this color (Master Lock Influence, priced by color) is currently on sale for some reason.
EDIT: Also, if you don’t think the longer shackle on the 1106 will fit, this one has a shorter shackle, but is (Master Lock!) priced... higher?
Here's a sneak peek of /r/PrimeDay using the top posts of all time!
#1: Prime Day 2017 General Discussion Thread
#2: Save $50 on August Smart Lock | 0 comments
#3: Amazon’s 2017 Prime Day sale will be on July 11, with select deals starting at 6 p.m. Pacific / 9 p.m. Eastern on July 10.
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Here's what you asked for
Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA
Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0
Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG
Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX
Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.
The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.
If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.
The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.
Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.
You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.
First, it's $125.
Second, that's a referral link hidden in a Twitter post. Here is the actual link: https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-2nd-Generation/dp/B0168IXNZQ/
Lastly, that's about the price for a 3rd gen on eBay. 2nd gens can be had for $85 less the memorial day coupon..
Alternatively.
Something like this to start If you aren't home, a cable lock takes seconds to defeat and your firearm is stolen. Get good locks and door armor and most break ins won't happen.
These are easy to install with a drill and impact driver which you can rent or borrow those easy enough. While you have the drill I would suggest some sort of remote storage security camera(s) covering doors and windows that have external access.
As for firearm suggestions, AR15 easy peasy. Ground Zero is cheap. You can get a Ruger or S&W for close to the same price too.
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70
added to all exterior doors
I got this for my door and love it. The key to immediately upgrading door strength is longer screws. This comes with 3-4 in screws and a lot more
I’ve been considering building a workbench with https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Capacity-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B01N4BUE1P and https://www.amazon.com/SPACECARE-Swivel-Caster-Polyurethane-Bearing/dp/B07K2S25D3
You could try a version with a side mount bracket...but not as clean looking.
Good luck and thank you :)
There are plenty of heavy-duty leveling feet. E.g. these ones claim to support 2000 lbs per foot.
If you're worried about catching you could bevel the leading edge slightly.
So could i use something like this for the legs to help level?
4 pack of 2000 Lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Leg Levelers
Sure! https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-18-Pairs-PH202-18NA/dp/B073XS3CHW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536072593&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3m+velcro+hanging+strips+small&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41L8ekXIDeL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just keep in mind you need 6 per panel. 3 on panel, 3 on wall.
I just went to Walmart and bought up packs. They have value packs that were a better deal than amazon.
I'm so glad you like them!
I would pick up some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-18-Pairs-PH202-18NA/dp/B073XS3CHW/
Either small or medium should work fine, just get whichever are cheaper! I ended up getting this huge box:
https://express.google.com/product/Command-Picture-Hanging-Strips-Medium-Mounting-adhesive-white-non-permanent-pack-of-50/7770280929795108356_4374697721581210615_7472660
But with nine, using 3 on each panel (the other ones stick to the wall), you really only need 27 pairs (for now -- you're gonna want to upgrade, trust me, heh). Looks like the best deal right now is $12 for two of the 18-pair sets from Amazon, and you'll have some to spare in case you end up moving them, getting more, etc.
I still need to set mine up -- be sure to post pictures of what you decide on!
Bought the Hive Automation Starter Pack (2 Bulbs, 2 Sensors, 1 Hub, 1 Plug-In) Here for $50. (Regular price $250 - Prime)
&#x200B;
Also eyeing the August Smart Lock Pro + Connect for $173. (Non-Prime)
I'm not aware of any off the shelf units, but you may be able to mod something like this. To my knowledge these just turn a standard deadbolt, if you modify the mechanism in the unit, or the key for your door you probably be able to get it to work.
Edit: I just noticed the keyhole looks like it's also a button, so maybe not without a complicated work around.
Thank you so much! Sorry for the delay, ok I will buy this: https://www.amazon.com/August-Smart-Lock-Connect-technology/dp/B0752V8D8D/
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Since I have the SmartThings setup - it would automatically connect.
Retro-fit smart locks do it (eg this). Gives the best of both worlds. Allows bumping, picking and drilling like a traditional lock, and getting hacked from any developing country.
I don’t have any advice for dealing with MIL, but if you are worried about them trying to break in while you are home, there are some fairly inexpensive products you can buy.
You can get door bars and window locks. They make special door bars for sliders too if you have that kind of door in your home. Hope this helps and good luck to you.
No no, I mean a literal bar as the lock:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ctyGDb46KZF5K
also don't use security devices that cannot be deactivated easily and quickly from the inside when trying to escape a building. They shouldn't be difficult to use in a fire nor unable to deactivate from the outside if a kid were to activate it from the inside while you are outside,, and never use a chain/swinging/sliding lock for securely opening a door part way which can be broken and bypassed easily. Never use a locking device on an exterior doorway that requires a key to unlock it from the inside.
Also use this attached to the door knob or handle with a rubber band if you live in a very sketchy neighborhood. This way you have to hold the stop bar up to open the door, and if someone tries to force their way in after you unlock the door to peek out or answer, and the criminal tries to force the door open, if you drop the stop bar it will be a door stopper, and not fall off if the door is closed and attempted to be opened again.
Need to get a steel door frame and/or a burglar bar for when you are at home.
https://www.amazon.com/Securityman-Adjustable-Jammer-Sliding-Security/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541065459&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=burglar+bar
Also, make sure it is at a slight angle and not sticking way out from the door. The way these work is by making all the force of someone kicking/ramming in the door, go up into the top of the door frame. Some people put these on with waaay too much of a slant.
Also, two things to look for in a good lock are at least 6 pins, and they should be anti-pick pins.