Best motion detectors according to redditors
We found 205 Reddit comments discussing the best motion detectors. We ranked the 61 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 205 Reddit comments discussing the best motion detectors. We ranked the 61 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Parts List
Old telephone ringer box
RaspberryPi
Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys
Powered USB hub
Amazon USB speakers
PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)
IR receiver/sender
GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!
old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support
USB mic
Edit:
forgot the pics!
Edit2: Linked everything
Most people do it just by personal preference/eye-balling or they use a custom ICC profile made from someone with the same monitor. This won't ever get the colors perfect, but it's plenty fine for the significant majority of users.
If you are a professional photographer/graphics-designer or just a high-end user and want as close to perfect as you can get, you will need to buy a monitor colorimeter or hire someone with one to calibrate it for you. This is sometimes offered for free with expensive television purchases from places like Best Buy.
Not at all. Just get one of these [referral link] and calibrate it before every big project. You'll be fine.
Aeotec Multisensor 6, Z-Wave Plus 6-in1 motion, temperature, humidity, light, UV, vibration sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vOgPDb5QQA5FZ
I have 9 of these led lights paired up to 1 motion sensor. Auto turns on and off.
LE LED Under Cabinet Lighting Kit, 510lm Puck Lights, 3000K, Warm White, All Accessories Included, Kitchen, Closet Lights, Set of 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YMNS4YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B45CzbVDGN2ZK
Westek MLC12BC-4 Indoor Plug-In Corded Motion Activated Light Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KSECO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G55CzbZ3BQZ9C
You need to calibrate your monitor and make sure you're exporting your image files according to the lab's specifications. Make sure to also tell them you don't want any additional corrections applied to your images before printing.
You'll need a tool like this one to calibrate your display and the calibration needs to be redone every few months.
> do you guys think the AW will go any lower than 849.99 (price on microcenter)?
Watch /r/buildapcsales. This monitor gets posted almost weekly. $849.99 is fairly common, but we've seen a few posts in the last month or so where it's gone a little lower. Here's a few recent but expired examples:
I personally think that Black Friday through Cyber Monday will see this thing hit $799 again, possibly $779 for a new record low. Here's hoping!
Dell online will also price match most national retailers and etailers. I got Dell to price match Microcenter since there is no MC near me (I think they sold it online too, but Dell's online returns are as easy as Amazon).
> , but wondering if colorimeters usually go on sale— especially with Black friday coming up
Prices fluctuate, but I haven't noticed any big sales recently. As per my other post, here's the 3 to watch out for and their current Amazon prices.
Checking CCC for the price history on those, here's what I'm seeing.
If you have to buy today, the ColorMunki is the best value when compared to the other options, and compared to historical prices. If you can wait until the holidays, they all should hit some fairly low prices. I'd still recommend the ColorMunki as I feel it's the best consumer home-use colorimeter, but some like to splurge for the i1DisplayPro as it's a better long term option for multi-device calibration due to the better build quality, durability, and faster sensor.
It's actually fairly simple. You need a calibration device (i've heard good things about this or this , I personally use one of a firm that no longer exists on monitors which probably don't even deserve calibration) and software which can talk to it. Most software is pretty self-explanatory and generates a color profile for your monitor, usually in an .icc file. You can then hand this .icc file to your operating system configuration. If your postprocess stack is color managed, you should then get reproducable colors. There are a lot more subtilities like colorimeter ($) vs spectrometer ($$$) and such.
More than just temp and humidity, so might be overkill for you, but I have one of these that I really love:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_sc_1
Not only is it battery powered, but it comes with a usb cable so you can plug it in if you are close to an outlet
Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
I'm not colorblind but I can't really do it by eye myself.
I use a Spyder 5 Express, which is pretty easy to use.
amazon link
I have a bunch of different motion sensors, but I like my recently acquired Zooz s2 ZSE18 so far. It’s compact, has a great mounting solution, and is very quick/responsive. Detection “width” seems good. I have it mounted above my office door, pointing toward the middle of the room, but it picks me up when I walk into the room underneath it...probably 70 degrees off center axis. I don’t know about range though because my office is pretty small.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FHL7J11/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9zBPBbTW2TJW9
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q - this is the one you want, the Pro
The Spyder5Express won't work with dual monitors.
As many have said, home-assistant. Just to give an example.
It takes a bit of learning but you can do all that and never have any of the traffic leave your network. In fact, it will still work even if your Internet connection is down.
Yep! I also ran rope lighting throughout ($35 from Walmart) and this Westek MLC12BC-4 Indoor Plug-In Corded Motion Activated Light Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KSECO8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf so when I open the door the lighting turns on and shuts off 5 min after I close the door.
Manufacturer claims like '1 billion colours' are complete shit.
Two things matter for colour. Your spectrum coverage and your deltaE value. There are different spectrum's that manufacturers like to use, some less relevant than others.
http://www.displaymate.com/Display_Color_Gamuts_1.htm
NTSC for example is of no real value. sRGB or Rec.709 is the normal standard for colour display. DCI-P3 is a stepping stone, being 26% larger than sRGB. Rec.2020 is the next gen standard, being 72% larger than sRGB.
DeltaE is the human perception of colour differences. A larger value means the difference is more distinguishable, an average DeltaE of 1 is considered the minimum a human can notice. Any display with a value of 2 or under is considered good, although professional calibrated displays should easily be under 1.
http://www.colorwiki.com/wiki/Delta_E:_The_Color_Difference
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/calibrating.htm
You can have a wide colour spectrum, but somewhat poor accuracy despite that. If you buy an expensive monitor, I recommend renting or buying a calibration unit to achieve the best possible results.
https://www.amazon.ca/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO-Colorimeter-Black/dp/B00UBSL31Q
Avoid the cheapest calibration units, as they tend to lack features such as room lighting monitoring.
The problem is who has another 100$ to spend on a color calibrator?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBSL31Q
Well a company that does photography does sure or someone willing to spend near a thousand dollars on a monitor does sure. Some youtube reviewer sure!
But someone who is going to buy say a 500$ gaming screen? I don't think so.
https://www.amazon.com/SMART-CAREGIVER-TL-5102MP-Motion-Sensor/dp/B008BMASJM/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-WaveLink-51005HOM-Wireless-Indicators/dp/B01MYQ6WN4/
Although older the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) is an inexpensive option depending on your region:
If you're in the UK/Europe, the Datacolor Spyder5EXPRESS (S5X100) might be cheaper though:
Note some of those are/might be sale prices due to Cyber Monday!
Failing that, just search your local Amazon and check out reviews of the cheaper options. They all work about the same for non-pro users.
Edit: I just purchased the X-Rite ColorMunki Smile (CMUNSML) as I couldn't pass up the Canadian sale price today. If you want to use newer, open source software with more options look into DisplayCAL, but check the Supported Instruments for colorimeter support.
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524412936&sr=8-2&keywords=monitor+calibrator
I reccomend /u/shumillionaire 's solution first. If those are not satisfactory, you could always burn a hole in your wallet with a Display Calibrator.
Alright! So if it were me, I would do a camera covering the front drive or the windows to the basement if you have any.
Cost: $36
This little guy supports a range of programs and email alerts.
Then I would cover the windows to the basement with these. They scream if they sense the glass has been broken or vibrated.
Cost: $25 for two.
Add in 10 magnetic alarms on windows and any door you want.
Cost: $11
And to finish it off, setup this wireless motion detector in your basement and you can it set to email on motion alerts. You can even set it for certain times when you know you are not home.
Cost $40
Total: $112
Or you could do an all in one system.
Get a wink hub. This thing will connect to your smart phone and will tell you everything that is going on in your house by whatever you attach to it. Its pretty cool.
Cost: $70
Get the door/ window alarms for it that connect to the hub.
Cost: $65 for two
Add in a motion detection in the basement that connects to the hub.
Cost: $28
Total: $163 Barely over budget.
You can even connect that camera to it thats listed at the top of this post. Wink connects all the compatible products and allows you to control/access them from your smart phone with alerts.
Let me know if you have any questions! Hope this helps.
Good luck!
Ninja Edit: Just as an FYI, current versions of Lightroom, and Capture One Pro also offer some soft proofing capabilities. The workflow is similar - although most of the info/tutorials available online are going to be written for photoshop, and I'd do it there anyway because it'll give you the most flexibility.
Do you have Z-wave setup already? If so, try searching for "z-wave motion sensors". A quick search shows in the $28 range.
Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dfQxybTBGGN9V
He's using this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO
Basically a camera that connects to your laptop and, with software 'calibrates' your monitor.
Something like the Aeon multi sensor?
Aeotec Multisensor 6, Z-Wave Plus 6-in1 motion, temperature, humidity, light, UV, vibration sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_H5yKzbEFZ8CQW
Wheel locks are the best option. You can also get a car alarm that is setoff by your vehicle being tilted to much (IE. Jacked up) (https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-507M-Tilt-Sensor/dp/B000GAYN3E) - I think there are a few car shops around here that install that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07M6KPJ9K/
Just get this and do it yourself. It will cost probably same in Kuwait if someone is doing that.
Check out the Hue Outdoor Motion Sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NDFQF2T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought this Viper for my Integra: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1T8P1O
Works pretty well, and the price is right. I also added this tilt sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GAYN3E
Do you need a smart switch with motion detector, or just a smart switch and a separate motion detector?
If you can combine them the GE smart switch with motion detector work great. I have one in my entry way and numerous routines triggered by it daily. Not cheap, but has worked flawless and I don't have to worry about batteries for a separate motion detector. But obviously the switch location has to be optimal.
If you want separate units I'd get any Z-wave switch you can get for a reasonable price - I've been happy with Zooz. Then get any z-wave motion detector, but that is a more complicated decision, nothing I've seen gets phenomenal ratings. Battery life and connectivity are the primary issues. I ended up picking up a Domeawhile back but I really haven't used it enough to offer a review.
We put a motion sensor on our youngest daughter's door as she was prone to overnight wandering. She wasn't intentionally sneaky about it, but we still wouldn't always hear her when she got up which could be quite dangerous. She's broken glass overnight, and I've woken up to the front door slamming.
Anyway, it's like the type of thing you'd expect in a small shop - the motion sensor is at her room and the receiver end is in our bedroom. When someone moves in front of her door we hear a doorbell chime in our room so it wakes us up. This is what we bought: SadoTech Wirless doorbell - for $35 Canadian it was a really solid purchase to help monitor her at night safely without restricting her movement. Lower-tech you could put bells on his door or something else which will make noise to wake you up if his door opens..
You can try this one:
Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.sqGybC10WH89
I have one and it works well. I have it with my smartthings hub in a bedroom
Thanks for the info, is this the ones that you have outside?
Simple is better
https://www.amazon.com/Westek-MLC12BC-4-Indoor-Activated-Control/dp/B009KSECO8/
For comparison, it sells for $240 in Canada... so even after the exchange rate and shipping, $99 USD is still a good deal.
I'd go with a proper computer be it mac or pc as it can just handle more and needs and skills usually grow with time.
Aside from this something you may want to do is buy a couple of external hard drives for backups. It's really important if something goes really wrong mechanically or there's a flood or whatever else. If they're precious family pictures 2 backups is the way to do it. One at home and keep the other off site at your work or a friends house or something and keep them regularly updated.
As for colour reproduction you'll need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Colorimeter-USB-Connector/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468087478&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=spyder+4) and get them done at a decent lab. That way the profile from your monitor and their calibrated printers will match up give more accurate colour reproduction in the final prints. Monitors are fairly easy to calibrate but calibrating printers isn't really a thing without it costing an arm and a leg for the home user. Find a good lab and they'll do you just fine.
Windows and MacOS have built in utilities to help calibrate monitors, but I've been using the test images from here for about 10 years:
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
That page will do a pretty good job, but if you really want to get it 100% right, something like this is what is needed:
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q/
Thank you again, so if i purchase these myself would the installer still add them to the panel and such, I am sure i could do it as well, I am just curious what happens if they show up and you have equipment, when they did my parents house they did do a nice job of mounting the motion detectors so that would be nice if they did that, not currently happy with the placement of mine.
I also have a few motion sensors but i dont know if these would be compatible?
https://www.amazon.ca/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Motion-Detector-PIRZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00FB1TBKS
And one last question I would like some outdoor camera's, from what I understand unless you purchase an additional storage type device the outdoor camera's will still record and store a short clip based on motion?
Do you happen to know what outdoor camera models they use? Since you dont use these maybe you have never looked into it.
Edit: And any idea what the skypanel costed as well?
You want either the HomeSeer HSM200 or the EZMultiPli multi-sensor. They're both the same product, but re-badged. I have one in my master bath, and it works great. It reports motion, temperature, luminosity, has a multi-color LED, and functions as a repeater/extender.
what's "every other regard" then, if we're not talking about picture quality?
A big part of the problem is that people don't calibrate their monitors, and this is totally irrespective of price point generally. I was having horrible IPS glow with my BenQ monitor until I looked up some custom RGB settings and a recommended brightness level and it improved image quality so much.
For my next build I might actually downgrade a component or two to fund a proper monitor calibrator like this
Invest in a 2-way car alarm and a bunch of sensors including a tilt sensor. More expensive than wheel locks..yes, but at least you get some sort of a notification on your remote that someone is jacking up your car.
Dome products - not sold as a set. But their siren, motion sensor, and door/window sensors are all Wink compatible, and officially supported to boot .....
Z-Wave Plug-In Multi-sensor,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VXZ5JN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Not in stock atm but express controls or ezmultipli searches may help you find it on other sites.
> Colormunki Display
Thank you for the amazing reply.
The Colormunki Display came out in 2011, right? It has better sensor even though it came out 4 years earlier?
Is this 2011 one, the one you're talking about:
X-Rite CMUNDIS ColorMunki Display CDN$ 168.99
Datacolor S5P100 Spyder5PRO CDN$ 187.16
The Spyder5 express is the same price as the 2011 Colormunki Display.
Nope, its fine.
Most important question - is your monitor calibrated? If you don't have a hardware calibration sensor then you really can't be sure what you are seeing is accurate.
Having one will save you plenty of frustration when you want to start ordering prints. I'm calibrated and when I order prints I drop-ship them directly to the client. I don't need to see them first.
I have the 5-year old version of this calibrator and it's still working just fine. It's a very worthwhile investment.
Okay OP, I quickly went through your images, and circled what stood out to me. You're missing a lot of editing marks.
You may want to look into a Spyder to calibrate your monitor, because it's a big deal if you are missing sore thumbs like this.
Have a second set of eyes check your photos before you send them out, it really helps.
Does anyone have any experience with the Aeon Labs ZW100 Multisensor?
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW100-Multisensor/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481048866&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+motion
Are you talking about this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor/dp/B00S68NUSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453668262&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+labs+motion+sensor
Amazon is doing a free replacement of my DOA Smartthings one, and I was already looking at that Aeon in case the replacement is defective as well, but the Aeon has gotten some really bad reviews which makes me wary :(
It really surprises me how such a seemingly simple device can have so many issues.
The normal wireless doorbell (not motion detecting) I found one on sale even cheaper for less than $20 than actually has an even farther range (500+ feet) with 4.7/5 stars that has a great design with multiple colors here.
The motion detecting doorbell can be found here for just around $20 and has 4/5 stars with a 500+ feet range. You can choose between an "LED motion sensor doorbell", a "PIR motion sensing doorbell" (both have 50 different alert sounds) or a "recordable voice alert motion sensor doorbell" which will say whatever programmed voice you have in there (or normal alarm sound) when motion is detected. All of them list the TONS of different features each one can be used for other than just a motion sensor doorbell and are all customizable. They are all on the same page you just click on the one you want. Quite amazing for the price.
Not sure what one you were referring to so I just left both in my post.
Here's an image from Wikipedia on the topic of color spaces https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SRGB#/media/File:CIE1931xy_gamut_comparison.svg
​
And as for color calibration, look into something known as a colorimeter like the one I've linked hear. It takes a few minutes but it's mostly an automated process. https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-SpyderX-Pro-Calibration-Photographers/dp/B07M6KPJ9K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=15H1Z71XRQUJJ&keywords=colorimeter&qid=1572185697&sprefix=colorim%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNEtBTFMwMFg3QTQ2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTI3NDMzSUozSlFaWTJaNkhWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMTQ5OTkxMkJLSTNaUTFDNUhSJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Yes they work great. I think the bad reviews are because the default refresh intervals are a little long, they do this to get better battery life. But it's totally customization, I have my refresh down to 30 seconds for motion and temperature. I have the humidity and light sensor a little higher since I'm not using them. Battery life doesn't matter to me since I have them wired.
Also make sure you get the latest version, gen 5 has the latest z-wave plus chip (fully backwards compatible) http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor/dp/B00S68NUSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425309820&sr=1-2&keywords=aeon+labs+gen+5
My current go-to with that set of requirements would probably be the LG Neo Blade III. I personally really like LG monitors, they've got a great price/performance and really good colour reproduction. Currently I'm seeing the Neo Blade III for $189, which is a bargain.
My other recommendation would be to invest in a colourimeter like the Spyder 5 Express. Most monitors these days can do a decent job at reproducing colours so long as they are accurately calibrated. Unfortunately, most monitors these days also come out of the box suffering from what I call "Best Buy Syndrome"- all the contrast and saturation dialed up to 11 like those shiny demo models in your local Best Buy. Spyder 5 with the free software DisplayCal will do you great. Slap it on your monitor, follow the instructions, and in about 30 minutes you'll have accurate colours for editing.
I have had good luck with these ecolink sensors https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB1TBKS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473343752&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ecolink+motion+sensor
Buy a color calibrator, or do it very crudely (if you are selling prints I would not do this) and hold your phone next to your MacBook and use the basic software adjustments like contrast, gamma, and rgb settings to match it. A proper color calibrator will ensure your photos are accurate and as even as they can be across all screens. Some of the higher end ones even allow camera and printer calibration. Once again, unless you are just shooting for fun, id STRONGLY recommend actually buying a proper calibrator like these:
Datacolor spyder5PRO or the spyder5elite
x-rite colormunki display or the x-rite idisplay PRO
> Bugs shouldn't set them off unless they're warm and very close.
I've tried Hue motion sensors on my front door, and it kept going off every so often. Any hot air or but that flown by set it off. So I switched it out to one that takes "35 LB" to set it off. (To be honest, since this will trigger outside lights. I'm not sure if that will matter. The one I had at the front door set off some doorbell on my Google Home speakers. So that one had to be fixed)
I ended up getting the following. If I can figure out how to make this fully weather resistant, I might end up picking up some more.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PRBMDKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you cant/dont want to go the route of ny1105's Fibaro (which is a great option) and you still wanted a repeater with some other useful features, I'd suggest the aeotec multisensor. In the USB powered mode, it'll act as a zwave+ repeater instead of just a battery powered node. And now you have motion and temperature sensors that you can use for other fun automations :)
​
I use one of the outdoor GE (dongle) switches as a repeater for my gates. Just barely enough range to hit the back gate ~300ft (los) away
I put in 5 of these a couple of weeks ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PRBMDKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i have 2 cats and no false alarms so far.
As a Canadian, I opted for Dome and Zooz Z-wave products instead. Dome's door sensors pair with ST and work fine out of the box. For the Zooz motion sensors you'll need to get a device handler for the full feature set. But I prefer Z-wave over Zigbee.
This is what I'm using. 2 small dogs, 2 cats, no false alarms.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS
Gotcha, well you can still get the basic hub+remote for $135 it looks. I have this, but never use the remote really, cause everything is exposed as switches to my other systems.
There's plenty you can do if you know how to code, but if you aren't writing plugins for HASS you can get away with just learning some basic YAML pretty much, and there's tons of useful resources on the website.
I use this sensor for a lot of things, including temp/humidity. It's also got a light sensor, if that would be in any way helpful there as well. It shows up in HASS with the assortment of sensors that can then be tied to whatever automations and such.
You would be best served by using software that is specifically designed for accurately outputting digital files to print. The clear leader in this area is of course the Adobe Creative Suite, which contains Photoshop and Illustrator. Your specific inputs (scanner, camera, etc.), as well as monitor and printer would have to be carefully configured in the software so that colors are represented on the screen and in print as accurately as possible:
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/creativesuite/cs/using/WSBB0A8512-8151-408c-9F79-4A9E9E3BA84C.html
https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/printing-color-management-photoshop1.html
Once you have the appropriate software, and you have properly configured all the devices in your work environment in the software, you can further increase the color fidelity of your output by purchasing a color calibrator. This hardware device allows your computer to directly sample the accuracy of the output which allows it to perform fine-tuning to achieve the most precise result possible. This type of device used to be expensive, however, in recent years the cost of such equipment has drastically fallen. It is now possible to purchase a decent color calibrator on Amazon for under $100:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL2TO
Regarding Adobe Creative Suite, Adobe no longer sells this software in standalone format (they now require a subscription and recurring monthly payment). However, there are some reputable sellers here on Reddit which still offer the software at a discount, in standalone format, which does NOT require the recurring monthly payments. Adobe Design Standard CS6 is currently available for only $100 and includes: Photoshop CS6, Illustrator CS6, InDesign CS6, Acrobat X Pro, Bridge CS6, and Media Encoder CS6. For an additional $50 you can get the Adobe Master Collection CS6 which includes pretty much everything else they make:
https://www.reddit.com/r/microsoftsoftwareswap/comments/5oqz5s/h_windows_10_7_8_81_server_office_visio_project/
Get a Z270 board instead, and maybe grab an H115i AIO liquid cooler since you'll probably doing high-end overclocking with that CPU.
Replace the PSU as well with an EVGA SuperNova G2 650W instead as well.
And if you're doing professional editing, why not grab a Spyder5PRO for a hundred bucks while you're at it?
I calibrated mine using the spyder5 pro. It looks much better compared to being not calibrated.
I shared my two .icm files here https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/5lf8c2/anyone_tried_the_fhd_1080p_120hz_display_on_r3_15/dbvc6al/
Each panel is different though so you should calibrate it yourself to get the best possible result.
EDIT: Just realised you posted there as well haha.
I can only recommend you getting a spyder5, go with the express, it's 23% off on amazon at the moment https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Designed-Hobbyist-Photographers/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483894706&sr=8-2&keywords=spyder+5
Yeah, calibrating by eye is really no calibration at all even with a good panel like yours.
However, I do have a scenario for you to consider. Say, you purchase a Datacolor Spyder 5. The model is irrelevant as you will not use their useless software (don't register it!). Instead, you would use the excellent, free and open source DisplayCal which can very accurately calibrate your monitor. You could then calibrate all displays at your disposal in the time span of a week or two. Then, theoretically speaking, you could be compelled to return the device to Amazon and be entitled to a full refund! Thus, you would have calibrated monitors for very close to $0.
Interesting thought experiment, no?
This is the motion sensor I use. Its fairly cheap, and works pretty well.
I have a raspberry pi with a USB ZWave stick to control my home, my plants are monitored with this sensor, and I control the lights and humidifier with a zwave controlled plug
I was just thinking this
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519072317&sr=8-6&keywords=Aeotec
And the smart plug and z wave hub I already have. They all work with ifttt, so I should be able to trigger them together. Guess I'll try it and report back.
Something like this is what I think Abode needs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VXZ5JN
But with a new design because this thing is pretty ugly in my opinion. I actually like the iDevices Switch design. I'd actually prefer it be Z-wave instead of abodeRF so it can act as a Z-wave node to extend/improve your Z-wave network.
Something that can be heard by whomever coming in as well might be better (i.e the ones used inside the stores). Like this one. But you've probably need find something that works with your electrical connection (i.e. you need to power it up).
This can be done without a smart hub.
Get any LED strip you like and plug it into one of these controllers - LEDENET M5 LED Controller Dimmer Color Temperature Adjustable Dimming Control Warm - Natural - Cold White LED Strip Lighting (M5 WW-NW-CW CT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4U4R2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ork6xbFV3A5EY
Other controllers will also work, this one maintains the light color and brightness even when you turn it off at the mains.
The LED controller will need a power supply so get one that has sufficient power for the LED strip you've chosen.
Connect the LED strip to the controller, the controller into the power supply and the power supply into one of these:
Westek MLC12BC-4 Indoor Plug-In Corded Motion Activated Light Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KSECO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kok6xbP72YF7Z
Adjust the sensor under your bed so that it activates as per your taste.
This is much cheaper than a smart hub and the response times will be much faster.
Plug the
There are color calibration tools like Spyder series. However, this is usually for professionals who need color accuracy and expensive.
I don't believe you can calibrate the phone, but you can calibrate your laptop using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q
I use a Spyder Color Calibrator for my monitors but at this price for monitor, I wouldn't bother.
>This is what most Apple haters don't understand.
We understand perfectly well. We just disagree, for very solid reasons not related to the comfort of the user in operating the machine.
Apple users often call that "hate" and that's what makes their attitude part of the discussion. It's not "hate". It's rationally supported disagreement.
>iPhones and Macs have never been about the hardware.
This is actually untrue in two different ways. The first is that Apple's hardware design from a visual standpoint is truly top-notch and that's one of its actual selling points; very careful thought has been put into the visual look of Apple's consumer products (that awful 2013 garbage-can-Mac Pro aside). The iMac is a computer you want to put on display and not stick it somewhere out of sight when company is present. I plan to buy a used iMac from my school if I have the money when they go out for sale and I definitely intend to give it pride of place in the room. They're just very nice to look at.
Usability is something else entirely and I have... issues... with their input devices, but that's personal opinion and is beside the point. Also beside the point is Apple's decision to make a non-touch display look like it's a touch display, with the resulting massive fingerprint-on-screen mess. I clean 20 of these screens in my lab weekly. Why Apple made that decision I'll never know.
The other way your statement isn't true relates to color reproduction on the screen. This is a very important aspect of the iMac and Macbook that Windows users of Adobe products and other imaging software actually envy, and rightly so. Hardware fragmentation of the PC ecosystem has resulted in many, many, many different display devices with different color capabilities and resolutions being used on the same OS. There's just no way to create a color profile for every single one that will reproduce color accurately; many devices don't properly poll for the information needed and you can only come close in color calibration without spending hundreds of dollars on a color calibration tool (which professionals who use Windows PCs actually do purchase). Apple, on the other hand, has complete control over all of the hardware and software end-to-end, which allows the company to deploy displays that really do have very very accurate color vs. prints and original photos etc., etc., etc. Yes, it still needs calibration, but it isn't the pain in the ass that it is on Windows machines with a generic or unknown monitor being used.
>We pay double the price of an equivalent PC, and it's mainly for the software. Many of us know and accept this.
See, that's the thing. You're really running a customized BSD. That's the OS, and it's what I'm assuming you're talking about (see below for why I make that assumption). Under the hood it's a Unix flavor. Linux is very similar. Linux is free.
So paying more for the OS doesn't really make any sense at all. Almost all major software packages ship for PC and Mac, so once again you really are paying more for equivalent or less.
Whether or not you get the bang for your buck from a Mac really depends on what you know you will not want to do with it. Spending the same amount on a PC enables you to do things you don't yet know you'll want to do.
For the money, PCs are scalable for future use cases requiring the capability you already have; Apple computers are not because those use cases require muscle you didn't pay for..
If you're a gamer you will not buy a Mac for that use. In that sense the "software" advantage lies with the PC; gaming on Mac isn't really a thing because the hardware is underpowered for the price and because many developers just don't release games for Mac.
Most open source software is built for PC, Mac, and linux, so again, if you're not talking about the OS you're not making much sense unless you're in a use case where you absolutely must have a Mac. Adobe Creative Cloud is also on PC (ad that software truly does perform better on beefier hardware you can get with the money you spend on a PC vs a Mac); 3D software is almost exclusively PC; MS Office is much much better on PC than Mac.
It's also not a decision based on "macs don't get viruses" because they can and do; APFS has its own problems and limitations which are beyond the scope of this discussion.
Here's the fun thing: I'm not restricted to Windows on the software side! I actually run Windows, linux, Android (in an emulator for development) and Mac OS 10 (virtual machines for the win!) on the hardware I bought. I can also completely divorce my hardware from the software running on it, slag the thing right down to bare metal if I so choose, and start over with something else.
PC users pay less for beefier hardware and get complete freedom of choice as far as software goes. Everything in a (desktop) PC is user-upgradeable too.
I'm going to presume that when you say you spend more for the software what you're really saying is that you pay more for an OS you're comfortable with. That's fine! It took me some time to get used to MacOS when I started school and some of its conventions still make me scratch my head. I'm a right wiz in Windows, though, because that's what I'm comfortable with.
So here is my wishlist for Camera things I sent my husband:
Think Tank Bag
I actually just got this for our anniversary on Halloween and it's freaking amazing. I love Think Tank everything because a) they're so incredibly thoughtful in their design and b) they're made incredibly well. This bag is replacing the current bag I carry JUST lenses and accessories in on the wedding day. On that note their rollerbag is what I use to carry everything and it's also amazing.
Helios Lens
This is basically a trash russian lens that provides really interesting bokeh and intense, awesome sun flare.
Holdfast
I have one of these already, there's a lot of reviews about camera straps, but as a woman it's been the most comfortable strap I've had. I have the American Bison one, it's very soft and incredibly well made. I get compliments on it at weddings all the time, it looks super professional!
Apple Watch
So nice for checking time, texting, and keeping track of timelines on the day of. I love it.
Mouse
If she needs any computer upgrades that would be a great option too. I need a new mouse because mine is a piece of shit, but monitors, monitor calibration, wacom tablet, etc could be nice too.
All the Microfiber cloths, batteries and SD cards
I buy all these things like candy every season. You can really never have enough of any of them.
As far as her home studio, the first thing I would look at is her chair. Art is nice and everything, but loving her chair and workspace makes such a huge difference. It's hard sitting ALL DAY, my back and neck hurt after a full day. I re-did most of my office and bought a bunch of plants and a new desk and it's made my days much better. Next purchase is a chair.
Hope this helps! I'm sure she'll love whatever you get her :).
Their color accuracy is not great out of the box because they don't use color profiles made by the big manufacturers. However, if you have a color calibration tool, like this, you can use that and enjoy the same (if it is an IPS, not TN like this one) color. After all, it is still the same IPS panel that Samsung, LG, or Apple use (depending on what version of K monitor you have)
Even a basic software based color calibration can get you good results if you take your time.
I have a QNIX2710 AMA
Update for anyone searching- I found a cheap and easy solution for my outdoor lighting puzzle:
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Outdoor-Wireless-Required/dp/B07NDFQF2T
Philips Hue Dusk-To-Dawn Outdoor Motion sensor. It detects motion + light and can send a signal to a switch. Will take a little calibration and positioning but I think this combined with a front door motion sensor (so lights come on when it's dark as people leave the house) should work nicely.
Still no dice on #2...
Zooz makes an outdoor zwave motion sensor:
https://www.amazon.ca/Z-Wave-Outdoor-Motion-Sensor-ZSE29/dp/B07KP4T3MS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2JI9FX78CS53W&keywords=outdoor+zwave+motion+sensor&qid=1567090702&s=gateway&sprefix=outdoor+zwave+mo%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2
I have not found a cheaper one. I would totally grab it!
I do have this in a watch list: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q59PBZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_htEzDbHGWFTVD
and this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VXZ5JN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0tEzDbBAMZZK4
I literally bought a device to do it for me:
https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO/dp/B00UBSL31Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467949443&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder+pro
You might consider some of the multi-sensors like Aeon Labs' that not only do temp and humidity, but also light and motion. You can leverage that info a number of different ways. That's for z-wave of course, but there are similar ones for other protocols depending on what you've got.
It's actually a really nice printer! Although quite expensive I guess, but I got it in the january sale as I knew I'd be eventually branching out to prints. Here's a link https://www.canon.co.uk/printers/inkjet/pixma/pixma_pro-10s/ It actually has 10 cartridges! Which is pretty insane! But the quality is definitly there! I actually ordered some prints from a print on demand place(I think it was printful) before I bought the printer, and the quality and colours weren't as good, and my borders weren't even straight. Being a perfectionist, I just decided to buy a printer lol!
So as for paper, it seems to print on just about anything(including canvas apparently, although I haven't tried that yet)! I am currently using bockingford inkjet watercolour paper for my unicorn prints(my only prints atm) which allows that lovely paper texture to shine! I have also printed sketches on to arches hot press paper and painted over them with great success! Both these papers need to be set to "other fine art paper". You can usually tell which setting to use depending on the thickness and weight of the paper. Although a lot of papers have their own profiles which you can download too. Also the borders come out straight!! So I am very happy with it!
Oh I should mention, although you probably know this, but if you decide to do home printing, get a monitor calibration tool! Then your prints come out exactly like they appear on the monitor. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q
I only have 4 prints at the moment which are a set of unicorns that I did for myself. They do have thick white borders, but I designed them that way for easy framing. I'm not sure if I will do it for the new series yet. If you are curious my Etsy is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KneeleyPillustration?ref=seller-platform-mcnav it really needs updating A LOT! Lol. But maybe you can see the paper texture from my printer?
I would love to see your work too if you feel like sharing! Although I understand if you don't. I'm usually pretty shy at sharing my work too, but I'm trying to get over that lol :)
Haha yes! It does feel like we have to wander around blindly a lot! But it's part of the fun I guess. Plus it is really nice to meet other artists too! It's also nice to share stuff with others who are interested, as my friends tend to glaze over a bit if I go off on a tangent about art supplies(I think I have an addiction to pens! lol)
Hi 'currently using bockingford inkjet watercolour paper for my unicorn prints(my only prints atm) which allows that lovely paper texture to shine! I have also printed sketches on to arches hot press paper and painted over them with great success! Both these papers need to be set to "other fine art paper". You can usually tell which setting to use depending on the thickness and weight of the paper. Although a lot of papers have their own profiles which you can download too. Also the borders come out straight!! So I am very happy with it!
Oh I should mention, although you probably know this, but if you decide to do home printing, get a monitor calibration tool! Then your prints come out exactly like they appear on the monitor. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q
I only have 4 prints at the moment which are a set of unicorns that I did for myself. They do have thick white borders, but I designed them that way for easy framing. I'm not sure if I will do it for the new series yet. If you are curious my Etsy is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KneeleyPillustration?ref=seller-platform-mcnav it really needs updating A LOT! Lol. But maybe you can see the paper texture from my printer?
I would love to see your work too if you feel like sharing! Although I understand if you don't. I'm usually pretty shy at sharing my work too, but I'm trying to get over that lol :)
Haha yes! It does feel like we have to wander around blindly a lot! But it's part of the fun I guess. Plus it is really nice to meet other artists too! It's also nice to share stuff with others who are interested, as my friends tend to glaze over a bit if I go off on a tangent about art supplies(I think I have an addiction to pens! lol)', im DAD.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHXB6XV
You need a grading monitor.
To get your monitors close, you can get an external color monitor calibrator tool for $120 or so. They run special software that adjusts your monitor to a more neutral look.
Both Windows and MacOS adjust the color of the monitor, and can adjust it, to whatever you want. Also, coupled with the external monitor on a desktop being able to adjust the color even more after the fact.
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Yes, if you grade on your windows monitor, it will look different on your mac.
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-SpyderX-Pro-Calibration-Photographers/dp/B07M6KPJ9K/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3KP9AE92IVUU0&keywords=spyder+color+calibration&qid=1563568622&s=gateway&sprefix=spyder+color+%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3
I have one of the above, and it works OK.
It does not replace a properly calibrated $15,000 studio monitor by any means.
If you really want a good rec.709 display, get an old Plasma TV - that would be the best start.
I use a couple of these to turn on lights in the basement. ¯_(ツ)_/¯
Westek MLC12BC-4 Indoor Plug-In Corded Motion Activated Light Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KSECO8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Couldn't you use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523019242&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+multisensor
To detect if vibration has stopped?
Do you have a color calibration tool like a Spyder? If not, consider investing in a calibration tool, as that's the best way to get consistent and accurate colors. I'd also recommend using DisplayCAL over the Datacolor OEM software.
One of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS-Colorimeter-USB-Connector-x/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493248268&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+calibration or similar. Measures the light your monitor is putting out while showing a bunch of test colours and uses software to generate calibration tables and profiling data to match colours accurately.
If you get the 13R3 OLED you can calibrate the color with a SpyderPro device. They are expensive but it would be worth the investment. But with it being a hobby, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I love my 13R3 for photo/video work and gaming is awesome on it.
I switched to SmartThings, but ran into a similar problem. It's not cheap, but I picked up one of these to work around the problem. Instead of using the dawn/dusk triggers, I use this sensor to detect illuminance levels (just have it sitting it one of my windows). Kind of nice as it allows me to turn lights on during days that dark storms come through.
I'd go with the following due to their ease of use & all the expandability doors that will open as a result:
Had these outside for 4 years works great
Ecolink Z-Wave PIR Motion Detector, Pet Immune (PIRZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB1TBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_mm8YBbC8X7QFY
There are settings you can adjust by eye but to get the colors looking accurate you need to buy an auto screen calibrator those are around $200. I would recommend the Datacolor Spyder5ELITE – Designed for Professional Photographers (S5EL100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL3L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yeSszbS4W3K02
Also one key thing with calibration factor to key in mind is that calibration only works if the environment the tv/monitor is in, is always the same in terms of light. So if you calibrate it for dark room then it will only display the calibrated colors correctly in while the room is dark.
The best way is to use a piece of hardware made for color calibration. They can be a bit pricey but really changed my post processing. If you decide to get serious you'll probably want to upgrade your monitor to one that has an IPS panel which are typically more color accurate. Ironically, the most color accurate screens these days are sometimes the smallest.
here’s mine . I tried looking for one that only does heat and humidity but couldn’t find any, so this is what I settled for
Aeotec makes some good ones:
https://www.amazon.ca/Aeon-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor-ZW100/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540994703&sr=8-1&keywords=aeotec+multisensor+6
I'm lucky and already had a Spyder 5 Express that I use to calibrate my theater projector. It's more important for that because as the bulb ages, the calibration needs to be done again so it's a matter of keeping it looking its best. The bonus is that I can calibrate every monitor in my house too (which there are a shitload including the AW34 haha).
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Another thought, if you have a few friends who game with high end monitors, is to see if they want to go in on it. Split 3 or 4 ways, the cost is low and you can keep passing it around as necessary. Just realize that many monitors come out of the box with a halfway decent calibration so don't expect a miracle but it's nice to know that you have a perfectly accurate display for every movie u watch, game u play, or photo u edit. Oh, there's a nice before/after switch you can toggle when the calibration is done which is pretty cool.
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Otherwise, I would use the link that _blackwatch listed below and do it by eye. That works pretty well too.
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Cheers!
I have 12 of these and they are fantastic!!!
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Pro-Grade-Wireless-Detector-ISW-ZPR1-WP13/dp/B00PRBMDKW
I'm less impressed with the smartthings motion sensor but it is my #2 pick. I would not recommend the zooz 4 in 1 at all.
Xiaomi notebook pro is very good for its price :) Perhaps reinstall windows to get rid of the bloatware and possibly get a calibrator like this if you need a very precise colour accuracy for your work: https://www.amazon.co.uk/datacolor-S5P100-Datacolor-Spyder5PRO/dp/B00UBSL31Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537471172&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder+pro
I've been really liking these for the plugs lately: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZNZX8J/
They are nice and compact and also report energy usage if that's needed.
As for the sensor - I've heard good things about these but never personally used them: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Multisensor-temperature-humidity-vibration/dp/B0151Z8ZQY/
I have some junky Monoprice ones they cause me a lot of headache. I also have these which seem to work pretty well. I like 10-yeah battery life and how compact and intrusive they are: https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/products/sensative-z-wave-plus-strips-comfort-indoor-outdoor-temperature-moisture-sensor
I got them on sale though for I think $35 each.
I'm tempted on something like EZMultiPli but the price is a little higher than I'm willing to spend. Not that it's priced high, just too much for my needs.
You can google for a monitor calibration guide for your specific model monitor, or look for an ICC profile that'll do it automatically. Though all panels have manufacturing defects that are individual to each monitor so there will always be variance between your monitor and another users meaning calibration guides or ICC profiles aren't perfect. You could try calibrating your monitor manually using online tools. Otherwise, for best results you'd want to buy something like a Spyder5 calibration tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Kangaroo-Home-Security-Motion-Sensor/dp/B07DHXB6XV/
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this may be more of like what your looking for
Looks like the same price at amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder5PRO-Designed-Photographers-Designers/dp/B00UBSL31Q/
Maybe something like the Aeotec Multisensor
You would just stick it in. They promise about 2 years on battery life.
This is Z-wave, so you would also need something like the Aeotec Z-Stick and leave that in a computer you leave on. I have one at home on a Raspberry PI running home assistant, and view the sensor data there.
I'm sure this isn't the cheapest solution, but it would allow you to expand with other z-wave devices in the future.
Bosch Pro-Grade ZigBee Wireless Motion Detector ISW-ZPR1-WP13 - Requires Samsung SmartThings Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PRBMDKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4E3LAb8NAJE6V
I've tried the Zooz, Ecolink, and Aeotec sensors, and this unit is by far the most responsive.
The Ecolink is 2nd fastest.
The other two brands are multi sensors and give you interesting data, but are not good for most motion sensor applications
Product page here: http://spyder.datacolor.com/portfolio-view/spyder5pro/
Amazon page here if you'd like to read some reviews: http://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-S5P100-Spyder5PRO/dp/B00UBSL31Q
I'm a zwave guy, and cheap is relative... I have a smattering of the following motion sensors:
Probably overkill for indoor use. They seem a little flakey.. one chews through batteries within days. I think I need to readd it to the network. Small, lots of data: http://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-Z-wave-Multisensor/dp/B00WMEVRRW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930377&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+pir
This is my new goto for indoor use. Motion, temp, humidity, lux: http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Multi-Sensor/dp/B008D5TYGU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930377&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+pir
Most of my indoor sensors are this, another awesome sensor as above but minus humidity: http://www.amazon.com/Homeseer-Technologies-HomeSeer-HSM100-S2-Multi-Sensor/dp/B007AGDV2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930395&sr=8-1&keywords=hsm100
An interesting device. Also SKU'd as the HSM200. Plugs into an outlet so it may limit where it is useful, but it has a little light that I use to relay status information (the led can not be controlled by OpenHAB, so I do a REST call over to the HS box to control it): http://www.amazon.com/Express-Controls-EZMultiPli-US-EZMultiPli-Multi-Sensor/dp/B00Q3OR0CI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930401&sr=8-1&keywords=hsm200
This is how I do occupancy of a room (you can enter and leave many times, and if you leave long enough the room will automatically shutdown): https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/3apzcb/openhab_newbie_i_properly_configured_my_zwave/
For the pressure mat.. simple. I put one of these (http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Security-SK630-Pressure-Alarm/dp/B00GUNX7WY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930426&sr=8-1&keywords=pressure+sensor+mat) under a piece of plywood roughly where my tire is when I park. I cut off the alarm and wired in one of these: http://www.amazon.com/X10-Control-Window-Sensor-DS10A/dp/B000EFIVLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930924&sr=8-1&keywords=ds10a then I attach this to my OpenHAB box to receive the X10rf signal: http://www.amazon.com/X10-R-F-PC-Transceiver-CM19A/dp/B0027RMIAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448930957&sr=8-1&keywords=cm19a
It was similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL3L6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_LaMKzb2PZWRMC
Hey, I mean these ones -
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NDFQF2T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WTb1Db58X06SA
Looking into this, it seems these are sensors only.... correct?
if your in la/sd I can do it for you.
you'll have to contact your local tv repair shop and see what they say. many do not work on CRTs anymore.
I use the spyder5. The older version of this sensor.
https://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-SpyderX-Pro-Calibration-Photographers/dp/B07M6KPJ9K
Colors differ from unit to unit even if it's the same model. Only way to calibrate them so the colors are precise would be to use professional colorimeter like Spyder5PRO or something of that sort. Other option would be to find a company that provides this service.
There's a guy in the reviews of this product that did just that: https://www.amazon.com/Kangaroo-Home-Security-Motion-Sensor/dp/B07DHXB6XV/ref=pd_ybh_a_17?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMZQ5SGMCP7BYYDPV14G
You'll need one of these if you want it to be fully colour accurate: https://www.amazon.co.uk/datacolor-S5X100-Datacolor-Spyder5EXPRESS/dp/B00UBSL2TO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=spyder+5&qid=1555092064&s=gateway&sr=8-2
It will likely need to be an IPS panel that can reach 100% of sRGB and a for photo work a decent amount of AdobeRGB.
You might be able to get around using the Spyder if you've got some PMS solid uncoated swatches to compare against.
If I'm understanding correctly, you're connecting the Hue sensor to the SmartThings hub and not the Hue hub, correct?
I wonder if there's a DH for those new Outdoor Hue Sensors?
I use a spyder 5. It's the only one I have ever used. It does the job. Can't speak about others.
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I assume you have an IPS screen?
You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.
EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.
My setup might work for you.
I have a motion sensor and a open/closed sensor on my garage.
Time is the first trigger I use. From 1/2 before sunset till sunrise + garage door open = light on. When the door closes the light stays on for 10 minutes then turns off (more than enough time to vacate the garage).
Same time as above. If the motion sensor detects motion turn on the light and keep it on until 10 minutes after motion has stopped.
The best place I've found for the motion sensor has been next to the garage door (the big door for the cars). It is pointing into the garage and is able to detect when someone walks into garage from the people door.
I've found the combination of the two(three actual) inputs to be dead reliable. I'm using homeseer so I can't talk to how you would set this up.
I also use the ecolink sensor. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB1TBKS/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484019434&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
Monoprice ones are just as cheap and have temperature. Garage temperature? Sure, why not. http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=
Hope that helps.
I would go with a 4K monitor, especially at 27", because that's a size where you will notice the difference. With the split screen feature in windows 10, you don't really need to have multiple monitors. Split screen isn't that great for workflow at 1080 since you can't fit that much on each side, but it works well at 4K since each half of the screen is the equivalent to the pixel width of a 1080p monitor. Since you mentioned you don't do heavy color work, this monitor would work really well for you. There's always the option of a color calibrator in the future if you decide you need it.
This is a wireless motion detector if you want to know when someone is at the gate.
I have this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I set it to less sensitive but it occasionally picks up a cat. I'm sure at a higher sensitivity it will more consistently see cats.
For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.
I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.
Fan Control (speed only, not light)
Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)
Door/window sensor
Dimmer switch
Garage door opener
Plug in outlet
Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.
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I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.
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The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.
Sorry could not resist. I travel a bit and I monitor my indoor lettuce hydroponic garden with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gives me a nice snapshot of what's going on from my phone or tablet. It is indoor only though. Still check my growing area everyday when home. Every successful gardener will check their garden as much as possible.
Good luck and have fun.
I've had one of these for about 8 months now, and its been highly dependable. I use it literally 15+ times a day to turn on lights in my kitchen. Then it monitors my kitchen while I'm away, for added security. It's still reporting 100% battery (no idea how accurate that is). You can also adjust sensitivity to ignore animals, but I can't speak on that feature due to lack of pets. I also wanted a plugin motion detector, but this seems like it will go a year+ on one battery.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB1TBKS
Not so much bodily harm but what if the rental burns down in the future, the landlord knows you did your own unlicensed electrical work, he could then press charges against you.
Just get one of these and plug a lamp into it.
My fav Z-Wave motion sensor is the ecolink (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQXXG0I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Out of all my zwave motion sensors these are by far the best motion sensor I have. Only 'down side' is the detection range is sort of large for my rooms so motion is triggered from hallway when walking by.
Pros:
- Fast triggering
- Very long battery life (running same batteries over a yr now)
- Has never needed tinkering with after setup, very stable and reliable
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Other Z-Wave motion sensors i have, ordered by best to worst imo:
- Aeotec multisensor 6 (3x) best multi sensor option imo but burns battery fast (~1-2months) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z8ZQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Fibaro Motion Sensor (1x) works great most of the time, but every few months it freaks out and constantly triggers motion and needs to be removed and re-added to network. prob bad unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KOGDETI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Mono Price multi sensor (2x) very slow motion sensor detection, scan freq is low and afaik unconfigurable. bottom barrel option imo, do not recommend as motion sensors but do ok w/ temp / humidity / light but lite measurement is in a weird scale vs other lux sensors i have (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRYFE90/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Just an update on this...A won't work (too little space for both OLED/Motion sensor) unless I use something like the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016Y10B3O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Uxcell micro PIR switch. I have one, but it's super sensitive and not adjustable, so I don't necessarily want to use it (would have to filter short pulses out in software).
I'm leaning towards B, even if I end up using the smaller sensor. I'm going to rework my PCB design/3D model to add a 90-degree 3-pin header underneath the USB connector. It will have Sig/3.3V/Gnd and take a standard 3-wire servo connector. I'll use that to connect any external sensor I may use in the future (maybe even servos?), starting with the HC-SR501 in a self-mounted enclosure.
The obvious solution here (the one I chose) is to get a Color calibrating device and create your own profile.
Datacolor Spyder5PRO – Designed for Serious Photographers and Designers (S5P100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL31Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HX7UCbCVYNXAY