Congrats and welcome to the Mauser club! You picked a decent rifle for your first. This one's been refinished, but I have yet to see a 1916 in original condition that doesn't look like it was dug up out of a mud puddle, and this is a shooter, so that's probably for the best.


So before you buy anything else, you'll want to get your range kit together, starting with a cleaning kit. This youtuber has the most in depth range kit video I've seen, but his setup is geared towards black powder rifles.


For a cleaning kit, you'll want patches, a bore snake, and a cleaning rod. I suggest going to Walmart for these to start. You will also probably want a cleaning solvent with a copper solvent in it.


You'll also want a gunsmith's screwdriver kit. These have a different bit that's meant to prevent the screws from stripping out.


For a shooting rest, I really like how compact the rest from that video.


For a spotting scope, you can spend hundreds of dollars on a piece of shit. Something like this celestron is what I use. A pure refractory telescope in that price range won't work very well unless it's incredibly sunny.


If you want to get into reloading, the cheapest and most space efficient way is with the Lee hand press. You would still need a case trimmer, dies, and some other stuff. It takes some research to figure out exactly what you want.


And finally, you'll want to figure out how to carry all this stuff as efficiently as possible. There is a tendency to have all kinds of cases and stuff you have to drag out to the range. The best thing you can do is to figure out how to get all this stuff in a range dedicated backpack, which is why I linked the video.


I also recommend that channel. He's not the easiest to watch, but I have yet to find a channel that is as thorough or as knowledgeable in one rifle as this gentleman. His favorite, as far as I can tell, is the P53 enfield.

Everything comes down to tools investment, time, and knowledge.


Before the formation of Umbrella Armory. All I had was my dad's tools he had from the garage. Which was barely enough to open up an entire airsoft gun. Eventually when I had my own money saved, I invested in tools which made the job simply easier, faster and much more efficient. Common problems with airsoft teching, is not using the right tool for what job. Resulting in either higher frustration, cussing, and stripped screws.


To be honest, there plenty of chinese tool kits, with a handle, over 40 or so bits (all which most airsoft guns would need) That I'd suggest starting you off with.


https://www.amazon.com/Aosky-Professional-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronic/dp/B07GYM7W6L/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2_sspa?keywords=tool+kitrecision+tool+kit&qid=1551234881&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull-spons&psc=1


You can find cheaper ones, on alibaba etc, some going only for ~$10.
~~~~


Now, as for parts go... Assuming you have not developed your own bin of surplus parts. I'd strongly suggest looking at craiglists for broken guns, or the app Hopup for local trades/purchases.


Theres plenty of people who leave airsoft for college/other reasons. And let go of their airsoft guns for dirt cheap.


I used to make a living in my college days buying and flipping these airsoft guns. Also checkout for local retailer's boneyards. Many retailers stockpile hundreds of 'RMA' guns which you may be able to pickup for cheap as well for parts, or to repair.


Now imagine, a KWA/Krytac you can snipe for $100, put in maybe $20 worth of parts you salvage, and be able to sell it for $200-240. You can almost make double your money back.
Selling your services however, is usually better than buying and flipping guns. Once your solid with your skillset, offering friends that airsoft your work could be beneficial. At the beginning, I would gain experience, by working on my friends guns for free. But, I would do the research and tell them what to purchase.


With all this work and time. Don;t expect to be rich or anything. I probably would have made more money working for McDonalds or so, but I seriously had fun doing it.


Good luck.

I just bought one of these instead

Especially because the plastic will start to become too soft over enough re-melts. Those screws aren't going to go back in very tightly.

This might be excessive, but I wanted to be thorough so you can see what all is out there. I am having trouble thinking of anything that the following tools can't do, in terms of AR building and maintenance. This is basically my setup at home, though some.of the brands and whatnot are different.

I am operating under the assumption that you already have some basic hand tools in addition to the torque wrench.

The only things you absolutely need are roll pin punches and an armorer's wrench and some basic hand tools like Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers and so on. The rest just expedite the process and help solve weird issues that may come up.


Wheeler Engineering Roll Pin Starter Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B3NWBVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QJZDAb1ZFBQ80

Wheeler Roll Pin Punch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE6GHVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4JZDAbV5YGA8M

Wheeler Hammer and Punch Set In Plastic Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SY07HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FNZDAb1Y74EF0

Geissele Automatics 10-169 AR15/M4 Reaction Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY6WFAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hOZDAbD3JHBAE

Aeroshell 33ms / MIL-G-21164D / MIL-SPEC Barrel Nut Thread Grease + 1/2oz can https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BJ3HE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4OZDAbQGRYJJ2

TEKTON Long Arm Ball End Hex Key Wrench Set, Inch/Metric, 26-Piece | 25282 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PPZDAbQ05H680

TEKTON Long Arm Star Key Wrench Set, T10-T50, 9-Piece | 25291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I5THF9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQZDAbRX59VNW

IRWIN Tools Multi-Purpose Bench Vise, 5-Inch (4935505) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TOCZEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1QZDAbT8R47J0

Yost UP-360 Universal 6 Inch Prism Style Jaw Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EVQH42U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aRZDAbRHAV73E

Real Avid Gun Tool Pro - for Modern Sporting Rifles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMHX5KA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bUZDAbEB87JFB

Wheeler Firearms Accurizing Torque Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xWZDAb1SRYD6D

Wheeler Professional Gunsmithing Screwdriver Set (43-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HXZDAbQX5BEWF

TacWater USA AR15/M4/M16 Tools Multi-Purpose Tool Set (W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WWZ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GYZDAbRGY3CNH

Takedown Pivot PIN Tool set 223 556 6.8 SPC 300 AAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OUSJFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.ZDAbSHZPEG5

Magpul Bev Block https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015877615/magpul-bev-block-ar-15-action-block

Snap on is a ripoff for 99.9% of the stuff they sell.

$175 for a 7 piece Snap-On screwdriver set

OR

$30 for a 17 piece Craftsman screwdriver set

Interesting that looks exactly like this one but... Asus.

JH Williams


PB Baumann


Wera


Vessel


Wiha


Felo

https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Screwdriver-Gunsmithing-Screwdrivers/dp/B0030HL5O0

Instead of a taper they are squared off. They don't twist out of the slot as easy ad a regular tapered screwdriver and can get a lot more torque with less chance of damaging the screw.

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

I got a set of Wera screwdrivers a few months back and they are probably the nicest I've ever used.

Upgrading RAM on a laptop is fairly easy to do. You will need a torx screwdriver set to open up the bottom of your laptop. I use this torx screwdriver set. I am assuming your laptop has 8GB of RAM so you'll want to buy a 8GB module to upgrade to 12GB or a 16GB set to upgrade to 16GB. If you are upgrading to 12GB you will only need to take out one of the two 4GB modules and replace is with the 8GB module. This is a good guide for installing RAM.

All the green stuff is Wera brand.
Here's the Zyklop Ratchet
Here's the ratcheting driver
Here's the Lasertip screwdriver set

Build Log 5: Viterbi

Highlights

• Viterbi split ortholinear 70 key keyboard from keeb.io
  
• Kailh Pro Purple Switches from NovelKeys
  
• DSA Honeywell Keycaps from PrimeKB
  
• Socketed Pro Micro controllers
  
• First personalized QMK keymap!
  
  

  Parts List
  

• 1x Viterbi PCB Kit
  
  • 2x Viterbi PCBs (Rev 1.0)
    
  • 2x Push buttons for reset
    
  • 2x 4.7kΩ resistors
    
  • 2x TRRS jacks
    
  • 78 1N4148 diodes
    
• 70x Kailh Pro Purple Switches (Tactile 50g)
  
• 1x Black PCB Viterbi Plate
  
  • 2x PCB swtich plates
    
  • 2x PCB bottom plates
    
  • 16x M2 6mm screws
    
  • 8x M2 11mm standoffs
    
  • 8x adhesive bumper pads
    
• 1x Silver Sheathed TRRS Cable
  
• 1x DSA Honeywell Keycaps
  
• 1x Red Rubber O-Rings
  
• 2x Pro Micro (ATmega32U4)
  
• 4x Mill-Max 12 Position Ultra Low Profile Socket
  
  

  Resources
  

• Nyquist Build Log
  
• An Overly Verbose Guide to Building a Let's Split Keyboard
  
• Socketing a Pro Micro
  
• A Guide to Flashing a Let's Split for Beginners (Windows)
  
• Build Log 1: Nyquist
  
  

  Tools
  

• Hakko FX888D-23BY & Flush Cutters
  
• Hakko T18D16P Tip for general purpose soldering
  
  • The tip that comes with the FX888D is either this tip or one that is extremely similar.
    
• Kester Rosin Core Solder (63/37 .020)
  
• XOOL ESD Tweezers Tools Kit
  
  • ESD-15 for most work, especially inserting the wires during controller socketing
    
  • ESD-34A for desocketing the Pro Micro controllers after they've been socketed (as a pry bar under the controller and then as a wedge between the underside of the controller and the top of sockets)
    
• Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker
  
• NTE Electronics SW02-10 Solder Wick
  
  

  Notes
  

• The Viterbi build process is pretty much the same as the Nyquist, with the addition of 10 keys. The other difference is the placement of the two resistors, which now are only installed on the master side (the side with the USB cable, the left hand side).
  
• When flashing, I wasn't able to find eeprom files specifically for the Viterbi. I instead used the eeprom files from the Nyquist and everything seems to be working so far.
  
• Some of the keys are a bit crooked... I'm not sure if this is the switches themselves, or me somehow soldering the switches crooked.
  

FWIW - the "Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces" are awesome. I bought some for my wife around black Friday. I paid $23.81 - they are currently $24.25 which is the second lowest price I have ever seen. They are amazing.
link to product

I did it myself. I had no qualms about taking it to a jewelry store/watch repair shop even though its a rep, but the store by my office was closed for several weeks and I wasn't able to go any further during business hours.

​

I tried to remove it using an eyeglass screwdriver but the smallest one was slightly too large. I ordered this screwdriver set from amazon and the smallest one was the right size. The screwdrivers were coated black and it was slightly too thick when I received it. I used a nail file to file both edges of the screwdriver a tiny bit and then it fit perfectly! Its pretty easy to do, you just don't want to remove the links that connect to the face or the clasp.

​

It might be hard to visualize without holding the watch, but first you remove both screws on the link you are removing. That will let you take the link out. Next, you remove the screw that connects the link next to it to the square part that was connected to the link you removed. That allows you to remove that square. The final step is using one of the screws you removed to connect the remaining link to the remaining square which closes the bracelet. It took less than two minutes to do once I had the correct screwdriver.

​

​

Wera 932/6 Kraftform Plus Screwdriver Set and Rack, 6-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NQQCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_070CybZEYKT5C

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50673-8-Inch-Socket-15-Piece/dp/B005VMVEV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396842&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50661-4-Inch-Socket-27-Piece/dp/B002O18PLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=jh%2BWilliams%2Bset&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-9K-00-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=knipex+pliers+set&qid=1565396944&s=gateway&sprefix=knipex+plier&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2569-Master-Impact-43Piece/dp/B00MPQ88RY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunex+1%2F2+impact+socket+set&qid=1565396983&s=gateway&sprefix=sunex+&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231C-Super-Duty-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0002SRM3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ingersoll+rand+1%2F2+impact&qid=1565397014&s=gateway&sprefix=inger&sr=8-6

https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/tool-vault-56-11-drawer-tool-cabinet.html

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Stinger-Flashlight-Steady-Charger/dp/B0015ZO8VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=streamlight+flashlight&qid=1565397140&s=gateway&sprefix=streamli&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Filter-Socket-Adjustable-Removal/dp/B07MGR24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=oil+filter+socket+set&qid=1565397258&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+filter&sr=8-17


https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sxin_3_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&pd_rd_i=B000KL4H80&pd_rd_r=cb4b628e-131d-4fcc-b250-1d9ff8c30f7a&pd_rd_w=dmdpJ&pd_rd_wg=pkYb4&pf_rd_p=eba0c0ae-19a3-4eb8-a600-1bc2a745bcd0&pf_rd_r=DDV7A2667PM9STRGS9T6&qid=1565397296&s=gateway&sprefix=cdi



Buy this list and stay away from tool trucks. Good luck

Just picked up these Wera Screwdrivers for $23! Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NQQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B6goybS80CNDQ

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

If u r looking for good screwdrivers these are a popular and high quality set.

Also klein makes pretty solid ones. I own kleins and have never used the weras but alot of people rave about the weras. A good sign of a wuality screwdriver is if you put it into a srew and there is no "wobble" or you can almost hang it off the wall just from the friction between driver and screw.

Not a fan of wera? They're on sale right now.

Wera Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001NQQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SPIgAb7NGZBMK

The reason you are stripping the fasteners is because they aren't phillips heads. Those are JIS (Japanese industrial standard) screws. Close, but different. You need to get the right screwdrivers or you'll keep stripping stuff.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hozan-JIS-5-JIS-Screwdriver-Gen/dp/B003F63WI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540514733&sr=8-1&keywords=jis+screwdriver&dpID=31QR2ZwViLL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Probably also a good idea to hit all those fasteners with PB blaster or something like that and let it penetrate for a while. It looks like you are having fun though.

Nah, not going to find that in one kit unless you get Wiha's 50 piece master set.

What I've found is that buying drivers individually is often not much more expensive than buying sets, and may be cheaper if it avoids buying unneeded or duplicate drivers.

I myself have the basic drivers (PH, slotted, t10+ torx) wera and felo drivers, and use 3" bits for the more obscure stuff. I particularly like using this wera bit holding handle with 3" bits. Handles like a regular small screwdriver.

I usually buy my individual drivers from KCToolco, their search tools makes it easy to find all the different sizes you need. You can usually find them a bit cheaper on Amazon if you find all the part numbers elsewhere.

I bought this set of phillips bits, and have found them extremely useful for electronics work. Many modern electronics are assembled with screws that have PH2 heads, but are too narrow for a normal PH2 driver to fit. The set of bits I linked above includes some that are basically PH2 size but narrowed down. Really makes a big difference on preventing stripped heads.

Here you go


https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Screwdriver-Gunsmithing-Screwdrivers/dp/B0030HL5O0

I have a 2017 with rally armor mudflaps but I assume it's the same process...

You don't need to remove the wheels.
For the front mudflaps just turn the steering wheel full left or full right to give yourself room to work.

For the rear mudflaps I used an offset screwdriver like this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/

It was really easy even with the wheels attached.

You just need a small screwdriver; you can get an entire set for less than $10... https://www.amazon.com/Choice-9-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Phillips/dp/B0747DYJJR

The wiha is nice, but he needs a blade. If his routine is anything like mine, the less to cart around the better! As an aside, if OP wants a great set of high quality tools for daily repair use I can't recommend the wiha brand enough. I'd stay away from a multi-bit though, I much prefer the precision afforded by these

Shh! dont tell anyone but snap on sells these for over 200 bucks for the same damn thing!

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1Q08FQUHBCQQ1&keywords=williams+screwdriver+set&qid=1555814534&s=hi&sprefix=williams+sc%2Ctools%2C135&sr=1-2

Yet another recommend for Wiha. I prefer their precision drivers like these.

I recently did a bunch of research on tools, and came up with a few good options:

1. For your most used tools (ratchet, drills, sockets, etc), go with high quality stuff. I recommend getting the industrial brand version of truck tools. Basically you can get Snap-On or Matco stuff for like 1/3 the price: How to Get Snap-On or Matco Tools for 50% off. I'd also recommend 6pt sockets instead of 12pt. They are less likely to strip.
   
   
2. For basic tools that won't take much abuse, I'd recommend just going with one of the decent grade brands that are easily replaceable at local stores. In my opinion, Gearwrench, with a coupon at Advance Auto, is hands down one of the best bargains. Others with lifetime warranties like Kobalt/etc could be fine too.
   
   
3. I'd also splurge on the high precision tools. For things like philips #000, #00, etc, I'd go with a precision set from Wiha, Witte, or similar. Cheap tools suck for things like this. I have this 4pc Wiha set that I love, but I also found this bigger set that might be nicer with the pouch.

Wiha 26194 Screwdriver Set. Highly recommended.

No downsides. I followed this guide. Just be careful and take your time. There are lots of small parts and it can get frustrating. I suggest taking plastic cups and keeping the screws from each step separate and labeled. Here are the tools I used.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071PB4RPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These? https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Plus-Screwdriver-6-Pieces/dp/B0001NQQCC

'A couple hundred dollars' for tools in a production environment??? The precision drivers I would recommend would blow your budget. Don't cut yourself short on tools. Get a realistic budget for tools and prioritize. I count on my tools to be the final word- I can't afford to be second-guessing my testing tools or mangling equipment because of poor-quality tools.

Looking at your screwdriver, it doesn't appear to have a hardened tip. A high-quality, hardened tip electronics screwdriver will take care of it. Here's an example.

Hello fellow MX518 master! I still have mine as well, but don't use it much as of now.

Which headset, headphones do you have? I could perhaps suggest you with something nice here as well.

---

This PC will kick ass and chew bubblegum. It's able to record gameplay no problem. You can even edit it fairly well as well.

I went for a black & red theme, since that's the most common and easiest to create, but if you want a different color, let me know and I can go to town!
I didn't go all out on your budget, because honestly, you don't have to spend more. I already went to the very high end tier for most parts.
Also, a couple of parts are from MicroCenter.

---

Talking about the parts, I will provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these.
I also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
Lastly, I will provide a short rationale or review for the products.

---

PCPartPicker part list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $300.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $20.00 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $120.00 @ MicroCenter (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.00 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $70.00 @ MicroCenter
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Thermaltake CL-F039-PL14RE-A 51.1 CFM 140mm Fan | $15.82 @ Amazon
Tools| Anti Static Wrist Strap| $4.00 @ MicroCenter
Tools| Screwdriver Set| $7.33 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | NO rebates!
| Total | $1053.75
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

• What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.
  
  
• What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ← Important!
  
• What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
  
• What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
  
• CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ← Important!
  
• GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ← Important!
  
• How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ← Important!
  
• What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
  
• Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
  
• DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01 ← Important!
  
• USB Type C: Here - 4:30
  
• What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
  
• Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
  
• Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
  
• Radiators explained: Here - 4:34
  
• What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ← Important!
  
• Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ← Important!
  
• Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
  
• What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
  
• What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
  
• Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
  
• Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
  
• What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
  
• What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ← Important!
  
• What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02
  
  Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
  
  
  ---
  
  

  Guides
  

  
  ---
  
  Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
  
  

• How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
  This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
  It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
  I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
  I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
  There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
  
  
• How to install a 115x CPU?
  Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  
• How to install thermal compound?
  The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
  Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
  Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  
• How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
  You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  
• How to set up your SSD & HDD?
  This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
  
• How to use Ninite?
  This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
  
  

It is a pretty standard size for RBA's that use Phillips head screws (Allen heads of different sizes are becoming more and more popular as well, but all RBA's that use Allen heads come with a matching wrench (except for Innokin's Axiom afaik)). Just get a precision screwdriver set (example), any decent set includes a couple of small Phillips head screwdrivers. As far as the Subtank RBA section goes, I use my old Subtank Mini exclusively with the RBA (V1 without the side screw). Easy to build and wick, a good starting point to try out rebuilding, and no more money spent on coil heads. My guess is it's the same for the RBA plus, but YMMV.

https://www.amazon.com/JACKLY-Professional-Screwdriver-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B005JRTAYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469929655&sr=8-2&keywords=jk+6089

this is what i use, have never had to bought another screw driver after getting this one. It works for literally anything and wont break.

Paracord-

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JPJDBK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You really have endless options, this store on amazon has almost 600 different paracord:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z1QOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&psc=1

​

The Wire-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G2SWB19/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or (These are just the 2 I bought, I am sure there are others out there)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQ2JNLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Bodkin-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WMFVRA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (To Thread the Paracord through. I stripped the ends of the 4 wire, twisted 2 and 2 together, threaded through the back hole, twisted those combined wires together, and then heat shrinked the over it with the small clear one in the box (link shown later))

​

Heat Shrink-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KT25J42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

USB Type A-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9FLG28/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

JST 2.0 ph 5 pin connector (There is way more here than you will need as it comes with 5/6/7 pin connectors. Most mice use the 5 pin)-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077LYP4T9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Wire Strippers- As Long as they go to 30AWG, you should be good. This is just a cheap option

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D25N45F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Precision Screw Drivers-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0747DYJJR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

A Third Hand (Not needed but will probably make your life easier)-

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WSZLDL/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076WSZLDL&pd_rd_w=IeORA&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=SCnJH&pf_rd_r=AKZJGB4959GQT25YX2ZJ&pd_rd_r=cf871c96-9c47-11e9-99da-dd5cbc43a5ca

​

You will also need a soldering iron, and thin solder, the points to solder are small. https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Diameter-Storage-Electrical-Electronics/dp/B01N0VNNKO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1562018188&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1

​

Other references I used:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/375-mice/1588984-mice-cable-pin-arrangement-internal-connector-size-database.html#/topics/1588984

​

https://www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/7xtnyi/diy_how_to_make_your_own_paracord_cable_for_any/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

​

*Unless you have replacement mouse feet, be careful removing your current set*

These are the ones you're looking for.

> Intel Core i7-8700K
>
> Asus ROG Maximus X Hero Wi-Fi AC
>
> G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB DDR4-3200 CL14
>
> Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti
>
> EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2
>
> Samsung 970 Evo 1TB
>
> NZXT Kraken X62
>
> NZXT H440

That is an absurd combination of parts in my opinion. Mainly in regard to price-to-performance.

I practically made a complete overhaul down below (it's actually a comment I just made for another post a few minutes ago).

• • -
    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
    
    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $219.88 @ OutletPC
    Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $89.99 @ Newegg
    Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.89 @ OutletPC
    Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $87.99 @ Amazon
    Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.89 @ OutletPC
    Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS Video Card | $669.99 @ Newegg
    Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ B&H
    Power Supply | Corsair - RMx (2018) 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $52.00 @ Newegg
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1393.62
    | Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
    | Total | $1343.62
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-29 04:27 EDT-0400 |
    
• • -
    Breakdown:
    
    The Ryzen 5 2600X is actually relatively close to the i7 8700K in gaming performance (both CPUs paired with a GTX 1080 Ti) and is perfectly capable of doing 144Hz. It has 6 cores 12 threads, an exceptional stock Wraith Spire cooler, and can automatically overclock itself via XFR 2 and Precision Boost 2.
    
    The R5 2600X does not need an aftermarket cooler.
    
    Swapped in a B450 motherboard; this one has decent VRMs for the price. AMD promises to support the AM4 socket until 2020. If you wanted to get a Ryzen 3000 or 4000 series CPU later down the line, all you would need is a BIOS update. You wouldn't have to buy a new motherboard like with Intel.
    
    Got much more affordable RAM. But if you want more affordable Samsung B-die (3200Mhz CL14), feel free to ask.
    
    The Samsung 970 Evo is only useful for very specific workloads. If you're just gaming, you'll be better off with a standard SATA SSD instead of an NVMe drive in most scenarios.
    
    Added a 2TB Seagate BarraCuda. Affordable and reliable.
    
    Got a cheaper GTX 1080 Ti.
    
    This PC case has decent ventilation and aesthetics (in my opinion) for the price.
    
    Got a high quality 550W Gold PSU. 550W is more than enough for your build. However, feel free to get the 650W version of this PSU for $18 more.
    
• • -
    Q&A Time
    
    > 1080ti or 2080? is it really worth it? i am pretty sure i am going to go with the 1080ti.
    
    Unless you care about real-time raytracing or DLSS, the GTX 1080 Ti all the way.
    
    > Where can i find a good tutorial on how to build, from scratch to a working machine with windows on it?
    
    YouTube is your friend.
    
    Just type in "how to build a pc" in the search bar and you'll find many videos that can help you.
    
    When I was a budding PC builder, that's exactly how I did it.
    
    > What kind of tools/materials do i need to get for this project?
    
    A screwdriver set like this would help. But you may be able to find stuff around the house that could work for you. Also, it really helps if the screwdriver is magnetic; this'll let the screw stay stuck on the tip of your screwdriver for peace of mind.
    
    You may optionally get an anti-static mat or wrist-strap, but you can also just consider touching the metal chassis of your PC case every now and then instead. That's what I do anyway.
    
    If you don't want to use the stock thermal paste. You could get something like Arctic Ceramique 2, Arctic Silver 5, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, etc. I like Ceramique 2 and Kryonaut the most since they're electrically non-conductive pastes (you don't have to worry about accidentally shorting any parts).
    
    And if you decide to get aftermarket thermal paste, be sure to get isopropyl alcohol to clean the old thermal paste off. The higher the percentage, the faster it dries, which is better.

Made for just such an occasion.

TEKTON 2944 Offset Screwdriver Set, 3-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ISbzzbP00HW79

Maybe get something like this precision screwdriver set on Amazon which should have multiple hex sizes.

Wiha 92191 Precision Screwdrivers 51 Pcs Master Set in Storage Tray

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-92191-Precision-Screwdrivers-Storage/dp/B0098RB3SY

JIS screwdrivers so you don't strip out the screw heads.

Honestly, the best thing I have found useful in the RC hobby in general is a solid set of 1/4 inch bits. I have found the best sets to be in firearm/gun smith screw driver kits.
For example https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Professional-Gunsmithing-Screwdriver-43-Piece/dp/B00HTN4EWG

This way if you are ever working anything RC wise, you won't be limited to making a repair with a specific fitting just because you don't have the right tool.

Edit: That specific set I linked does not have any hex or "safety" type bits but you can find them easily. No reason to spend money on specific branded tools for the hobby.

Dear Lord. Let me find my Tomato post and get you what you need to order to open this up…

https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/7zz6xx/

Send the original firmware when you'll repair the firmware. Once you confirm it works, you can just repeat the same process and send a different firmware of your choice.

So, according to my self past, you'll need those :

• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DJUHGHI/
  
• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MUJU33S/
  
  Driver is somewhere in the post, and I was using Windows 10 at the time. Take your time to read the story, don't panic, and calmly order those two items.

Ahh that would do it, and hey nothing wrong with what you've got, I didn't mean to imply that you did a bad job. I thought it was the before pic. SMD can be a bit tricky, if I may give a little advice for future, make sure you remove all solder from the pad the next time (solder wick is your friend as is isopropyl alcohol), then add a very small amount of solder to one pad to stick one of the tabs from the component, then solder the other pads, a small set of Electronics tweezers is also very helpful in placing components while soldering

Check out the Williams sets too, Snap On oem

Williams 100P-8MD 8-Piece Premium Mixed Screwdriver Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G.kZCbNQEP2H4

I use this one and it works perfectly fine for knife servicing (for me).

I didn't think their regular drivers were too much?

Klein 6pc, $50

Wera 6pc, $40

PB Swiss 7pc, $60
oh - those are posidrive, but phillips + flat blade is same

Torx security screw. Hard to say the size but something like this set would probably have it

Might also be able to do a search of the model + torx and see what's shown

198 for the red: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-92190-Master-Technicians-Bench/dp/B000T9XZFO

Get an offset screwdriver for your offset guitar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I6hZDbS8JQX2D

You said he has a 30+ collection, I imagine he is often getting new add ons and scopes etc.

You could get him a set of gunsmithing tools like this:

www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HTN4EWG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_vkUCwbTNGVFWM

If he does his own tinkering with his guns it would be good providing he doesn't have a set. Also if that looks to be a bit much some searching on amazon for gunsmithing tools will return some handy little multi tools for range trips.

Edit: I should mention that to my knowledge these screw drivers have been shaped in a way that is less likely to scratch the black finish off of fasteners used on many firearms. This is why someone would prefer them over the standard set they might already have out in the shop.

This would work right? https://www.amazon.com/Choice-9-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Phillips/dp/B0747DYJJR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521395825&sr=8-2&keywords=phillips+size+00

Multi bit sets are good for infrequently used square or torx bits but you want a good basic screwdriver set. See: http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Piece/dp/B007NLPJN2?th=0

Also get a socket set and vice grips, pipe wrench pair for plumbing, and a small, medium and large crescent wrench.

no problem man.

Any basic knife will do

flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Lithium-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503516912&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=fenix+flashlight&psc=1

Screwdrivers:https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Precision-Screwdriver-Computer-CTK100P/dp/B0001NYK16/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517004&sr=1-1&keywords=micro+screwdriver+set

Tweezers:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXXQHS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BRC2XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Sucker:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIPKOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Station:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXL6AHM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder Iron Tip Cleaner:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PQ32EPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Spring Punch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037UUO60/ref=twister_B01IRD4F34?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wire cutters:https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-TR-20-M-D-Flush-cut-Construction-Dissipative/dp/B00FZPM2AQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503517519&sr=1-15&keywords=soft+wire+cutter

I have that set and I think I paid $20 back in ancient times. It is excellent and I use it all the time. That said, it is NOT for building a PC. So I both recomend getting it and recomend getting something else to go along with it to do your build.

I also own this set of Craftsman screwdrivers. I bought them in 1991, have used them constantly since, including yesterday while building some Ikea stuff. The handles are "old school" but...Im old so...

A pretty decent and inexpensive "modern" alternative is here. Bonus - color match for the small ones.

Seriously, I love the small ones so much I am buying another set since they are on sale. Tiny screwdrivers are one of those things you dont need until you really need and then there is no replacement.

EDIT: I sit corrected. I actually HAVE used these in a PC build - I used the largest of the phillips head to screw an SSD into a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting kit. SSD screws are tiny and you dont want to torque them too much or you can crack the case.

Wiha has some nice sets that will include pretty much everything you are likely to come across with electronics repairs. Everything else can be handled with the occasional use of a bit set with whatever holder is most comfortable in your hand. Here are some kits with good bit selections from iFixit and Harbor Freight for the more budget minded.

If you like Snap-On or other tier one screwdrivers, checkout Williams, they're a subsidiary of Snap-On. The screwdrivers are the same as Snap-On, just re-branded and cost 1/3 the price. They're also made in the USA and backed by a lifetime warranty.

Like this (offset screwdriver)?

Maybe you could cut the clamp and buy a new one, though if you're going shopping anyway you might as well just buy an offset screwdriver.

Personally I use [Wiha](Wiha 27390 Slotted And Phillips Screwdriver Set, Precision ESD Safe, 7 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AN16QI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gfcaBbS4JF23Q) brand tools for everything except tri-wing. When I worked at the Apple store, it’s what we used for repairs. They are strong and have a nice feel to them. The downside is they are a little expensive. For the price of the set above you could get this which has everything you might ever need including multiple tri-wing sizes. I also have this kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPZ3J0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I've used for a good number of my TFs, and it covers almost anything. A pin punch is a good idea as well.

Here is iFixIt's teardown for the 2012 MBP unibody, just follow the first few steps to replace the HD with the SSD and take out the optical drive. Then you should follow the instructions for whatever optibay you buy to put the HD in there--it should be straightforward, just snap it into the connector and put in a couple screws.

The SSD/HDD dual set up guide you linked is good. The most important thing is to keep all the prefs, caches, library files, etc that get read/written to a lot on the SSD to take advantage of those speed gains. My set up is everything but Desktop, Movies, Pictures, Downloads (I use it for storage.. if you'll use it just for temp stuff you download before moving them elsewhere then you can leave that on the SSD), Documents, and the iTunes Music folder is on the SSD, and I permalinked those folders so they are fully integrated into Finder. The only problem is that their icons don't appear as folders that you can quick look (press space to quickly preview) or expand, rather they act as files almost that take you to the real location on the HD. You can do the permalink through terminal or use the symbolic linker app to do it easier.

Ideally, you would have the SSD in the Optibay and the HDD in the main slot so the HDD can still take advantage of the sudden motion detector in case you drop the laptop and so there is less noise because the spinning HDD will be a lot quieter in the shielded main slot... BUT the 2011/2012 MBP's have crashing problems with Sata 3 (6 Gbps) drives in the optical drive slot... SO you'll have to take out the HDD from the main slot, put the SSD there, put the HDD in the Optibay, then install the Optibay in place of the Superdrive.

You'll just need a Phillips #0 and #00 screwdriver, and a spudger if you want (if you are gentle and have some fingernail, you can do it with your hands). I couldn't find them at my local Home Depot when I did my upgrade (mid 2009 mbp), but Radioshack has a decent set. They aren't the highest quality but they are magnetized so that prevents the screws accidentally dropping into the laptop's frame when you are removing them and they do the trick. If you feel like you might be stripping a screw, invest in a set of high quality Phillip's Wiha precision screwdrivers.

If you are considering partitioning and installing Windows using Bootcamp, know that you have to do that from the internal SuperDrive, you can't do it from an external CD drive. I have heard that if you put an enclosure, around $30, on the Superdrive and connect via USB it may work however. You could either install Windows while doing the SSD install, or plan on putting the Superdrive back in later to install Windows. Either way I would recommend installing to the SSD--256 GB should be more than plenty. That said, there are more convenient ways to run Windows such as Parallels or VMWare Fusion that integrate Windows directly into OSX so consider that too if you don't need a 100% windows environment.

Set-up routine.. I recommend wiping the SSD then installing Lion to it. Follow the Apple instructions here, under the section Installing Lion on an external storage device. Then boot to the SSD, wipe the HD using Disk Utility's Erase feature, leave it as Mac OS Extended Journaled and choose Zero Out Data from the security options. Then copy the Movies, Pictures, etc folders to the HD drive and create the symbolic links and delete the original folders.


I didn't proofread that so sorry for typos or if it's just a wall of information but if you have any questions or need more advice I would be glad to help

I did the same as /u/JDSportster and bought a set off Amazon. I just bought an old GS Suzuki, this set of JIS screwdrivers was one of my first purchases after I bought the bike. Their use has been pretty limited thus far, but they have good reviews and have seemed solid so far.

Wera Screwdriver Set - Nice screwdrivers, don't often see these on sale.

Well looks like amazon still has them
https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Screwdriver-Gunsmithing-Screwdrivers/dp/B0030HL5O0

Hmm... I think my favorite thing that I've done so far was going out with my best friend who came up to my school. We got to hang out and go out to dinner with my roommate (her twin sister and my other bff), her mom, and grandma.

[Precision screwdriver set!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPZ3J0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=ET9F1H0BMZEE&coliid=II00LBUGANJOO) because I love to build and take apart :)

Do you have Prime? That helps a lot.

So, looking through my recent purchases...

• Boxer Briefs : if you normally wear boxers or briefs, these things can be a game changer
  
• Suspenders : belts are weird, if you think about it. These are a moer comfortable way to hold up your pants.
  
• Flushable moist wipes : better than dry toilet paper
  
• Set of jewler's/precision screwdrivers.
  
• cut resistant kitchen gloves
  
• Dehydrated soup veggies - great for making an inpromptu soup
  

I bought this kit on amazon when I was taking apart my laptop a couple years ago because I needed a torx screwdriver. Since then it's served me well for watercooling.

Snap-On ratchets run around $100 each, as does a set of sockets. Going with something like a 3/8 or 1/4 80-tooth ratchet (FHL80 and F80 are two of the classic snapon designs) and an SAE and Metric set of sockets will be a GREAT gift that lasts a LONG TIME. This will sound weird, but Pawn Shops are a great place to get Snap-On stuff. I know it is strange giving a used item as a gift but it isn't uncommon because these things are such high quality. Or you can buy one part new (like the ratchet) and get a few sets of sockets from the pawn shop or visa versa. Look on ebay and local pawn shops to see what deals you can find to give him the most impressive gift possible.

For screwdrivers you can go with this Wera Kraftform Laser Tip or this, Wera Kraftform Chisel Tip or this Proto Duratek set. Now obviously, you can go smaller sets to save money or larger sets to cover more options. I have the Wera Laser Tips set that I mentioned and it is quite nice. The screwdrivers are excellent quality as I mentioned before. The Chisel Tips don't have the laser cut on the tips, but they have a MUCH harder screwdriver. They are designed to be pounded on with a HAMMER! Either of the two Wera kits covers everything you need for larger screwdrivers other than JIS screws (which are only necessary if he works on Japanese vehicles or motorcycles).

For precision Wiha makes great precision stuff. There is the classic big kit, flat version or benchtop version, which is pricey but has pretty much EVERY precision screw driver and small nut driver he could need (other than proprietary ones or security ones, but those you get on an as needed basis anyways). There is also this one, which I own. It isn't quite as nice as the previous kit, but it still is really damn nice with a very well made metal case and the quality of the tips is excellent.

A good multimeter like a Greenlee DM-510A (rebadged Brymen BM257S iirc) will do well for him (often goes on sale for around $110-130). Otherwise, a Fluke 87V will run around $150(if lucky)-$250 used on ebay in excellent condition. The Fluke 87V is the classic high-quality multimeter. A third option is the Brymen BM869S, which you can get from TME.eu in Europe for around $240. This thing is an amazing meter (it is by far my favorite meter) but Brymen doesn't have the name recognition that Fluke has so it might not be the best for a gift.

You can pick and choose from these options to maximize your gift impact. As for the design of the garage, I'm a bad example. I keep a small limited amount of quality stuff, because I move around a lot. You can snoop around on the forums at GarageJournal. You will encounter a LOT of garages that will help you get ideas in your mind. You can ask questions there as well if you are having trouble.

I'm in the same boat, looking to start making a kit.

I'm starting to build up a list of items, I'm not in a rush to have the kit assembled, but I want a general purpose toolkit so I don't need to be asking or searching around for shit when I need it.

*As far as standard drivers go, I want a basic, quality, ESD safe kit, something like this.

• Security bits, (this kit seems promising.) [http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/96-Piece-Security-Bit-Set/IF145-044]
  
• Probably a JIS driver set as well, just to be certain.
  
• Dental pick set
  
• Spudgers
  
• Good set of "Dikes" (Diagonal cutters)
  
• Wire stripper
  
• RJ45 termination kit (incl. toner)
  
• Magnetic Metal grabber
  
• De/Magnetizer
  
• Small ESD mat and wrist-strap
  
• usb->serial adapter
  
• these along with a 3 foot USB extension, and usb power adapter
  
• Pliers
  
• Other assorted cables (most of them already listed)
  
• PSU tester
  
• these little aluminum cups for organizing parts and screws
  
• A bag and organizers to hold and organize this all
  
  For as soldering goes, I have free and open access to a manufacturing facility, with dual-iron stations (I'm an akimbo soldering pro), BGA reflow machines, cleaning stations, etc, etc.
  
  
  
  
  

There are a lot of factors that come into play on how much it will cost. Even with DIY you have options. You can do real DIY, where you have to find schematics, source the parts, make your own pcbs, make your own front panels...or you can buy kits. I cant read schematics so I went the kits route.

It still cost me some money to buy equipment: soldering iron, solder, circuit board holder, tweezers, wire cutter, headband magnifier.

From there I mostly stuck with products from AI Synthesis, Trogotronic, and Befaco. Those companies all sell kits with very clear instructions. I was new to soldering so this was key for me. Some other kits I bought had very poorly written instructions and their support was just as well done as their manuals.

If you know what you are doing then you may have better luck. You can also try modules that require SMD soldering. Mutable Instruments has released all their code. Amazing Synth is a great resource for high quality pcb's. They dont sell the parts though so you gotta find the BOM and source the parts. Amazing Synth has the BOM's for most, if not all, of the modules. You'll also need to do some programming and upload the code from a computer to the modules.

To try to answer "how much will it cost" it really depends on how many modules you plan on making and what method you choose.

There's a whole subreddit dedicated to those of us who DIY...come check out /r/synthdiy

Kingsdun 12 in 1 Torx Screwdriver Sets with T3 T4 T5 T6 T7 T8 T10 Star Screwdrivers, Stainless Steel Tweezers & Philip Slotted Magnetic Screwdrivers for Phone/Mac/Computer Repairing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUJU33S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lA82AbEBPZ6RZ

Pentalobe drivers. Spudgers. Hell, half of ifixit's catalog.

The PTT is a little outside your budget but has literally everything he'll ever need. If you gotta keep to the budget, I'd get this and this.

Not an ifixit shill and they are certainly not the level best quality out there (but definitely better than your ebay or harbor freight gear) it's more about a convenient assortment of tools that will cover a wide variety of situations for a reasonable price.

I am a Wiha tool man myself, and my screwdriver sets alone have run me several hundred dollars, but I consider that worth it.

Super easy, all you need is a special screwdriverthis will work. You use this to unscrew the bottom four screws, from this point on it's just Phillip's head screws. If you want to just do the face plate all you need to do is unclip it from the case and disconnect it's ribbon cable and it is now out of the GameCube. Now you'll need to disconnect the controller pcb from the face plate, this is just held on with two little screws. Once those are removed you're ready to paint. I just use spray paint and some clear coat. PM me if you have any questions

I use a thin flat head screwdriver similar to one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Choice-9-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Phillips/dp/B0747DYJJR/

​

Works really well for stirring bowls, scraping pipes, and the top of it is perfectly sized for packing down a bowl.

I worked at a bicycle shop for about a year and a half, and that was a couple of years ago, so take these tips with caution.

For tools, a basic mechanic set and some screw drivers should be what you need to get started on the routine maintenance. I'm assuming a 15mm crescent wrench is what you need to remove the wheels.

The spokes, however require a deal of training and some specialized tools to perform a proper repair. However, I'm sure there are YouTube videos that will teach you how to adjust and replace spokes without special tools, but you run the risk of damaging the nipples (the small threaded pieces that the spokes go into) and/or spokes.

Hopefully, your usual bike shop will be willing to show you how to do the fairly routine things, but if not you may want to see if there are any workshops near you that you can attend. Getting hands-on practice with people who know what they're doing is (in my opinion) the best way to learn mechanical tasks.

​

To reduce the amount of flats you get, you have options.

1. Write/Call your local department of transportation and ask them to clean the roadways
   
2. Upgrade your current tires to something more durable (I would recommend the Continental Ultra Gatorskin)
   
3. Carry a flat repair kit and some spare tubes (you'll want to add a crescent wrench to remove your wheels)
   
   There's also the nice things to have on hand as well:
   
   

• Chain lube
  
• Spare tubes
  
• Bicycle pump
  
• Rags to dry off the bike and chain so they don't rust
  
  Also, I have found Sheldon Brown's website quite useful when I needed some walk-throughs.
  
  ​
  
  Sucks that your local shop is closing down! I'm sorry to hear that.
  
  ​

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-27390-Phillips-Screwdriver-Precision/dp/B001AN16QI

This is the set I bought and they’ve worked pretty well for me for about a year now.

Unfortunately you have to buy a case separately. I have just been using this sleeve.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000T9UK8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Use a screw driver that won't slip and strip the head of the screw, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26194-Screwdriver-Phillips-Precision/dp/B000NZ5QGK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02

These cheap ones, forget it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3UO3V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aa8uCbX7XYQSW

The smaller of the two

> I was thinking of buying an eye glass repair kit but wasn't sure it would fit. I was thinking perhaps you guys knew of where to get one on line that would work for sure.

I use something similar to this but it came with a bit more and I got it at Lowes, but that's just to give you an idea.

edit

Actually I have something EXACTLY like this

I'd like to recommend some brands in general. Usually, you can't go wrong with any of their products. Not cheap, but BIFL. Since I'm from Germany, all German brands. ;)

Kitchen tools: Rosle - I love their products. Not everything they have is that usefull, because they make a lot of specializied single use items -like the garlic press for example-, but if you are looking for great quality whisks, ladles, bowls, strainers etc. they'll have them in all shapes and sizes. Also their kitchen rail system is great.

Another great company for kitchen tools is WMF. While Rosle in general targets more the kitchen professionals, WMF specialises a bit more on home users and dining related items. They are very well known for their flatware sets for example. WMF also focuses more on design (WMF SmarTea for example).

Flashlights: LED Lenser - They got bought by/merged with Leatherman. Definitely one of the top flashlight brands.

Backpacks: Deuter

Tools: Knipex for all sorts of pliers, wrenches and cutters and Wera for all kinds of screwdrivers. Special recommendation: Wera Kraftform. Levels by Stabila would be another recommendation.

I've been doing something similar to yourself though less in a consolidating manner than just upgrading my tools. I have a lot of Wera kit and can't say enough good about them though I've heard equally good things about Wiha and others.

On the multi side, something like this kit might suit you.

I have this kit which has the same small driver handle but a selection of regular short bits. It has the added benefit of a small but strong and very well made ratchet handle and sockets. If you need something along those lines as well the extra cost is worth spending.

As for regular screwdrivers I have this set but you may find their regular non-insulated ones cheaper.

The blades are top notch and the handles I find very comfortable in the hand. Everyones different though so you're probably best to try some out in a shop somewhere if you can get hold of them.

You can save yourself future headache and buy something like this. They're available from other sources. I think I paid $6 at Harbor Freight for mine.

You could try an offset or angle screwdriver

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/

if your ok with waiting for shipping something like a angled screwdriver might fit.

This is my favorite electronics screwdriver set. Worth the small investment for a lifetime of being able to open almost anything.

https://www.amazon.com/JACKLY-Professional-Screwdriver-Extension-Maintenance/dp/B005JRTAYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481400956&sr=8-1&keywords=jackly

Here's some essentials that I recommend picking up. They're all a bit pricey, but it's better to buy one pricey set and never buy another than buy ten cheap sets.

Screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B007NLPJN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501608941&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+6-piece+screwdriver+set

Pliers: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-9K-00-80-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609025&sr=1-9&keywords=knipex

Drill/Driver: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH102-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B01L84A470/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609078&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+drill or https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609100&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+drill

you mean this set with 1/4 socket broach and not this set which are chislel drivers

if you want to stick with wiha and get a bit of other bits

cheapest wiha set



[this is what I used a for along time, the other bits come in handy for random jobs but it's a cheap metal that will warp sometimes. I mainly use the micro bit holder for my wiha bits now]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYM7W6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UcmTCbSMSF3KB)


the cheapest micro bit holder, they other bits probably suck but the holders are usually fine, I mean, how can you really screw that up

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

Grace USA 3/32in. Punch w/ J Series Wood Handle For Glocks GP332.

I use it for everything.

They make damn nice gun screwdrivers, too.

Amazon links:

http://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Series-Handle-Glocks/dp/B00LM72UVC

http://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Original-Care-Screwdriver/dp/B0030HL5O0

If you want an all around set I highly recommend Wiha brand. If I was going to take stuff apart all day I would have one of these on my desk.

That's a good kit. It's becoming pretty popular because a lot of "how do i fix this searches" end up pointing to ifixit; plus, it's affordable. I have both of these sets (1 - 2).

1 stays at home on top of a work bench.

2 stays in a bag that rides in my truck. I probably use the power driver in #2 more than I use any of the hand drivers from #1.

The only thing I don't have in these kits are pentalobes, but I can't even buy an iphone screen without being sent pentalobe drivers and shitty openers.

Amazon or Midwayusa will have them in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030HL5O0/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473952528&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gun+screwdriver+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41kqXCmBInL&ref=plSrch

I'm in mobile and far too lazy to format this, copy and paste link. Well worth it if you work on our own gats.

i bought mine off amazon. doesn't need to be anything fancy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003F63WI8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

was what i bought few months back. i think it was the 02 that was the size that worked. but... the long screwdriver came in handy as well.

also bought the vessel impact jis screwdriver.

no idea if these are "good" but they seemed to work. and at $20ish not that big an investment.

I chose to go with the i9 myself though there are those who min/max dollar to performance ratios and all that sort of thing and I have no problem with that. But for myself what I have learned is to always buy more than you currently need because you will grow into it. That has served me well so I stick to it. My thermals are really great and I rarely throttle so I am happy with the i9.

As for the areas to address thermal it will not void your warranty. These changes actually will extend the life of your rig so it is a good thing. Here are some things that will help you out as the process is fairly simple assuming you have a modest amount of computer knowledge and confidence:

Thermal:

https://www.ultrabookreview.com/14875-fix-throttling-xps-15/

Backplate Screws:

You will want to replace these immediately because eventually they will strip. Use the M2*3 from this kit because they are the traditional crosshead screw top and not the Torx. As a bonus these look nicer since they are black.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTI8TM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If one of your original torx screws strip take a small drill bit and go slightly into the head of the screw. This will create a small cone shaped hole in the top of the screw so now your screwdriver will have something to grip. Then use a torx screwdriver or similar to remove it by using generous amounts of pressure. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUJU33S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I highly recommend that you upgrade to the premium support plus option because it will cover you better should you ever require repairs. Do not buy from Dell unless you upgrade to this support option.

As for a review you can find any number of sites that will tell you how awesome this rig is. But if you want to read a legitimate review from a guy who gives you the good, the bad, and the ugly try this one. This review is 100% accurate and is supported by these threads and the issues people have come across. But I would say don't let this stop you from your purchase, just be prepared that it may take some time like it did for me to get a fully working unit. You may however be one of the fortunate ones to get a good unit out of the box.

https://www.ultrabookreview.com/23071-xps-15-9570-review-follow-up-3-months-later/

Lastly you may be interested in a post I previously made:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/9m6t59/should_you_purchase_from_dell_the_good_and_the/

I thought about getting these two:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CMMFQG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AN16QI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A209I1S1ION6AE&psc=1

​

Which sort of gets me what I'm after, although probably includes ones I'll never use.

It looks like you use those husky screwdrivers quite a bit judging by the tip on that Phillips. I highly recommend a set of Wiha Screwdrivers.

I've used a lot of different precision screwdrivers in my day and wiha is hands down the best. I will say though, it is hard to beat that husky warranty.