Best sculpture molding & casting products according to redditors
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best sculpture molding & casting products. We ranked the 59 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Honestly, I'd say ditch the kit and DIY it.
First, you want some alginate. This is what you will make the mold out of. A kit is going to give you enough for one try and this is where most people have problems (if it sets up too fast you are screwed). The 1-lb bag on Amazon is enough for four or five molds.
Second, you need body-safe silicone. I'd try either this or this. The 20A is going to be softer than the 30a. The two pints that you get from Smooth-on is enough for 3 or 4 replicas. You can also buy just the silicone from Clone A Willy. They claim that is body-safe and you'd get enough silicone for one dildo.
Third, you'd want to get something to make a tube out of to create the mold. A plastic water bottle like a 1L smart water bottle would work fine.
Fourth, you may want a vibrator to insert into the silicone before it cures (if you want a vibrator instead of a dildo). The one that comes in a kit is pretty bad. A Tango would be pretty awesome.
Finally, a good cock ring is indispensable when it comes to keeping your FWB hard through the molding process.
If you are set on a kit, the Clone A Willy kit works OK. The biggest issue I had was that it comes with a big, piece o' junk vibrator to insert into the silicone. If you didn't use the vibrator there wasn't enough silicone to get the job done. When you did insert the vibrator it was almost impossible to keep it from getting to close to an edge, creating a weak spot in the toy. After about three or four uses a small tear developed and it was no longer safe to use. If you do go for the kit, I'd highly recommend that you ditch the vibrator that comes with it and replace it with a Tango. Better vibrations and the thinner profile would work a lot better in this application.
Machining the chocolate directly is going to involve a lot of complexity.
For starters, you'll have to make your whole machine food safe. That means it will need to be sanitizable and your cutting bits will have to not leave any hazardous chemicals or metals behind.
Beyond this, you now face the challenge that chocolate has an extremely low melting point and is therefore likely to melt rather than cut. When I've seen people machine chocolate its typically done in a freezer for this reason.
A simpler solution might be to machine something like jewlers wax into a positive of what you want your chocolate to look like. Then cast the wax in a food-safe silicone.
Once you have that the silicone mold should be able to safely cast the chocolate, and should be reusable to boot.
Same problems as many of the posts. Ran out of silicone. Though now they do have a larger vibrator to take up more volume for the larger girth guys. I still would get the extra silicone from them just in case.
I would also suggest getting some extra alginate. I messed up the first mold. The extra alginate I got was much better than the stuff provided by clone-a-willy. It changes color when it is ready. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PULSRM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Amazon of course
Hello all, thanks for looking!
These are the first batch of Dugout One Hitters that my dad and I are making in our garage. We used Amazing Cast Clear epoxy resin. The blue one is dyed with a liquid coloring and the green one is a powder with some metallic flake. We wet sanded them up to 3000 and then used 3M buffing compound for the final finish.
Here are some more pictures.
Resin Used
Liquid Coloring
Powder Coloring
Buffing Compound
We made custom molds out of HDPE and used Smooth On releasing agent.
Any feedback or questions would be appreciated! Check out more on my Instagram
I like using alginate. Solidifies cold, can do all sorts of fine detail, and is super soft so it's easy to get out of.
ADDENDUM - Posted wrong link to Amazon in the other post, edited for correct link. THIS is the stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Dragon-Skin-Making-Silicone-Rubber/dp/B00EOA0EC6
Glad you mentioned the safety thing because it made me double check the link I posted.
The problem with using paints or glues is that they require exposure to air to cure, so it will never set under the top layer of skin.
I recommend to go with resin. This mixes 1:1 ratio and dries to a white solid, semi-translucent at the thin areas, plus any bubbles will make it look legitimate. It’s exactly what came to my mind when you mentioned milk:
Alumilite Amazing Casting Resin, 16-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058V9KMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3CBhw6kz94uzW
Alternately (and inexpensively), you can use Plaster or Hydrocal. It will cost under $10 in that case.
Plaster: http://www.walmart.com/ip/DAP-Plaster-Of-Paris-Dry-Mix-4-Lb-Box/190101660
Hydrocal (as perfect cast, get this at Joann and use a coupon): Perfect Cast 2lb Cast & Paint Casting Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O87CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xB9wDbPRN1SXD
How To Start Your Own Dildo Making Business
Tube - (Amazon)
Temporary Molds - (Amazon)
Long-term Molds - (Amazon) https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-10-nv/
Rubber To Fill Mold - (Amazon) https://www.smooth-on.com/products/dragon-skin-30/
Color (optional) - https://shop.smooth-on.com/silc-pig
Hi Igor,
I'm in Des Moines, Iowa but my Mom lives in the Twin Cities. I get up there from time to time. If you don't hear back from any Minnesotans, let me know.
This would be a fascinating adaptive engineering project!
I'm wondering if you could make an alginate cast of your hand in a comfortable position and then use that as a reference.
Then a shell could be designed and more than likely a mouse could be hacked apart and the buttons and sensors relocated inside the shell.
I'm teaching myself Fusion 360 and this would be a very interesting project. But I'll wait to see if there are more experienced people who may be near you.
Please keep us updated on your quest!
$22 Amazon stainless whiskey stone ice cube tray plus $29 2 part room temp cure silicone that doesn't need to be cooked?
https://www.amazon.ca/Dernord-Stainless-Whiskey-Chilling-Reusable/dp/B077XC5DYN
https://www.amazon.ca/Smooth-Smooth-Cast-Liquid-Plastic-Compound/dp/B004BN7G0E
Silicone don't stick to anything and will release surprisingly easy. If you're having trouble a tiny little bit of dish soap and water on the mold before hand will fix the problem.
Cheaper to buy alginate on amazon instead of the molding kits. only down side is you need to pick out your own silicone.
The clone-a-willy molding powder bag is 3oz for $7.95.
The Alja-Safe Alginate I linked on amazon is 3lbs(48oz) for $26.13. That's equivalent to 16 bags of clone-a-willy molding powder bags.
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Title | How To Make LEGO Gummy Candy!
Description | This simple recipe is great to do with the kids, and lets you pump out massive amounts of custom gummies, that are snack-able, and stackable as well! [✓] Lego Ice Molds: http://amzn.to/2cBCIRa [✓] SmoothSil Silicone: http://amzn.to/21k9Eex [✓] Karo Corn Syrup: http://amzn.to/2ctti67 [✓] Knox Gelatin: http://amzn.to/2chOEUL [✓] Blue Jell-O: http://amzn.to/2chPEYR Endcard Links: Batarang: https://goo.gl/ggrtBr Clothespin Gun: https://goo.gl/ZNMN6L Ninja Balls: http://bit.ly/SquishyNinjaBalls So...
Length | 0:06:19
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You should try it out! I had no experience whatsoever with mold making and resin casting, and though there was definitely a lot of trial and error, it was pretty simple to get the hang of. It really depends on the complexity of what you're molding and casting. This pin was actually three separate pieces (mockingjay, ring, and arrow) that were all molded separately and then attached. I couldn't figure out a way to do it as one piece, though with some things I'm sure you can and that'd be a lot simpler. ANYWAY, I got this kit here which has everything you need to start making molds and resin casts, plus it comes with an instructional DVD and some mold release spray. I say, go for it :)
Art N Glow, personal fave. Got mine off of Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_NbpVDbMX0D84V
I totally agree with your gf, I think 20A (what Clone-a-Willy uses) is way too high a shore durometer for realism.
The hardness of an actual erection averages about 10A shore. So once you make an alginate mold, you can pour Smooth-On Dragon Skin 10 silicone into that. If your gf wants the dildo to be squishy and have a soft, skin-like feel, then Dragon Skin 00-50 is a better choice. 00-30 is going to be super-duper squishy and even floppy.
Those silicones are the best choices because they're certified skin-safe.
Unfortunately, you may always have occasional air bubbles if you're not vacuum-degassing silicone.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OS1DGNA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520746832&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fake+water+2+part&dpPl=1&dpID=41RqxMO7ZiL&ref=plSrch
This is the material used for the clone a willie mold portion. You can adjust the set time a little by adjusting the amount and temp of the water. It sets in about - 30 seconds. This box is enough to cover about half an adult body. I've made 3-4 clone kits in the past. Some things to look out for, if you're not circumcised the foreskin will most likely cause problems unless you can keep it fully retracted. The mold material can get between the foreskin and glans, this will cause pockets in the finished product and harbor bacteria. If you have any sort of curve at all, cut the mold tube for the curve. I don't have much of a curve but it has ruined molds because it puts me too close to the side of the tube and the mold is too thin, or breaks through. The rubber material is really hard, like the old style dildos. Some women find this uncomfortable. If I ever make another one, I want to do something like the modern real skin dildos. They have a hard rubber core with a softer silicone rubber outer layer so you get the rigidity for hard thrusting and the softness of skin. Unfortunately that requires a lot more time, material, molds and money. There ate also services that will bring you in and 3d scan your penis and custom build a dildo. It's significantly more expensive however.
1 X Alja-Safe Alginate 3-lb Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3FHKzbD3769MV
https://www.amazon.com/Sil-Poxy-Silicone-Adhesive-Ounce-Tube/dp/B00IRC1YI0
I tried it before they introduced the larger vibrator insert. I actually ran out of of silicone so it shredded the length by an inch. Seeing you are the same girth as me and also longer I suggest the larger kit. I also messed up the first time with their alginate so I had to by some separate from their kit. I got a bit quicker setting and also color change alginate so you know when it is ready to place yourself.
My take is that it is an awkward process so be prepared to mess up the first time. It also really helps to do with with a partner. Not only can they help mix and prep but also give you visual and physical stimulation to keep you ready to mold.
Color change alginate: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PULSRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I agree with /u/redsnappa127 . The materials that make up the clone willy kit are standard life-casting materials. Search for molding alginate on amazon. You can get a pound of alginate for $15 http://amzn.com/B007PULSRM or you get get 4lbs from Smooth-on which is the company that professional body casters use for $32: http://amzn.com/B000QCM27Q or from smooth-on: http://www.smooth-on.com/Life-Casting-Alja-/c3_1185/index.html?catdepth=1
Then you need a platinum cured silicone which is the more expensive part $38: http://amzn.com/B00EOA25X2 or www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1131/index.html?catdepth=1
SmoothSil 940 is platinum cured and food safe so it should be safe to make into a dildo.
You just need a molding container and that would be easy to make out of an old water bottle, the 1L smart water bottles would be good as they are decently sized and smooth sided.
As /u/wenbobular said, you probably want food grade silicone. There are a few ways to go about making such a thing. If you're trying to make something like a jello mold, I'd invert the print and fill it with the silicone. If you want a press mold then the silicone would need to just be a thin coating on your plastic. That's going to be hard to achieve while keeping a sharp enough edge to cut your dough. Good luck!
We have tried it and thought it was okay, but I would personally recommend buying some alginate and Dragon Skin silicone.
 
For about the same price we got a much better toy--and have materials left over for more cloning fun. Dragon Skin is a professional grade silicone that is pretty widely used by both the movie and sex toy industry. You can choose the hardness/softness you want (we went with the 10A as that was what most forums suggested). It can be bought from Smooth-On directly or on amazon, ebay, etc. As for the alginate, we went with this mostly for the price and convenience, but it worked great.
 
Anything that won't leak (and is large enough to accomodate your anatomy, of course) should work as a container for the mould. We went with a QT cup (cheap and easy), but you can also simply cut the top off of a plastic bottle. Apparently, legos work surprisingly well and are a popular choice, but those little fuckers are too expensive IMO.
 
This redditor explains the process we followed pretty well and Youtube is full of helpful videos on how to do lifecasting. We actually ended up purchasing some plaster to make the positive mould that could be reused. (Side perk: a plaster mould of a cock sitting the bookshelf also makes for a hilarious conversation piece).
 
I realize this route sounds much more involved, but we honestly felt that it was much easier and more cost effective. The clone-a-willy kits seem too finnicky and leave little room for error. Having one shot to get it right can take the fun out of it and makes it hard to, er...stay hard (crucial to the process). Getting some wiggle room and ending up with a much higher quality end product was well worth the extra $10 (at least for us). Either way, I wish you the best of luck!
I need some more casting material so I can make more figures!
I want to soak in a hot tub
So when you cast something, the original is called the master. Im saying you could make a negative of the shapes you need of out something like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQAOLeOwg-k
You use plaster so you can finish any imperfections by hand so they dont appear in your master. then you cast the plaster piece in silicone.
As silicone can get VERY expensive, if you are just starting out I'd use a low temp resin and a recastable mold material like https://www.amazon.com/ComposiMold-Used-3lbs-Reusable-Making/dp/B01NBMEKWA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K7MYRAMF5YJGR5TVS9B5
This is what Smooth On makes for that. It's suggested you pull a vacuum so I haven't tried it yet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOA25X2/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A14PXI2GJIO87&psc=1
I just jumped on this topic yesterday. I am not repairing toys I am trying to make custom feet for Combiner Wars toys. I have a Perfect Effect set, and I have the original (horrible) small feet. I want to use the hinge of the original one, make a custom shape using DAS clay, sculpt the foot, use it to make a mold and cast plastic feet for my combiners. It will probably become lot of work for a poor result, but I am going to give it a try. :)
I read a lot about products and it seems that Smooth On offers good result.
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth--Silicone-Making-Rubber-Inc/dp/B004BNF3TK/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1462795907&sr=1-1&keywords=smooth+on
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth--Smooth-Cast-Liquid-Plastic-Compound/dp/B004BN7G0E/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1462795907&sr=1-2&keywords=smooth+on
It looks like this stuff, or something very similar. (Ignore the part where it shows it being poured white on the package. It's actually clear until it hardens.)
Sorry I was unable to find a mold like that, the closest thing was a D20 icecube mold but even that is out of stock.
I did however find thisA kit to make your own
Here is a video on how to do it. You can also make a 1 part mold but that wont last nearly as long. and will look less nice. If you follow the edges of the dodecahedron for the mold haves you will have a near perfect result.
I’ve been using Amazing Casting Products and so far so good. I think it would work well for dice. You’d have to color the numbers by hand, but it would look good. May need a lot of polishing.
Amazing Casting Products 10591 Clear Resin,Includes parts A & B; 16 FL. OZ./473 mL each , Packaging may Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072RV2LHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BkD1DbMCGRB9Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E4LWBLQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You could knock out 2 people with one of these. Sentimental and something fun to do. Just under 40$.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QCM27Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1411517919&sr=8-5&pi=SL75
Quick and dirty, this can work, it is uses relatively easily available and cheap materials, and can give reasonable results. There might be some cracks or flashing in the finished hand but the can be filed out relatively easily. However you need a dedicated oven for a good few days.
Use either alginate to make a hand mold, they sell kits
Be aware the alginate molds do degrade rapidly, and are generally unusable in less than a day. If you send one to your sister, have her make the hand in plaster then make a simple gauze mold of the plaster positive.
or..
Buy plaster infused gauze and do a quick 2 part mold around the hand using it. Lay hand flat do one side, with a bit of gauze to form a parting lip, wait to set up, flip hand over, grease the lip, and do the other side. Then remove it carefully reinforce it enough to hold wax.
Ideally you want to end up with a void you can do a slush casting. Heat the wax (preferably microcrystalline, or beeswax, but paraffin can do in a pinch) Melt it in a double boiler for safety, do not over heat the wax. Pour in enough to fill the mold, then wait maybe 10 15 seconds and dump it out. Repeat the process until you get about an 1/8 " thick shell of wax.
Remove the wax from the mold carefully, and fix any issues that you may have. for quick and dirty I would simply plan on using the wrist as a all purpose pour cup, vent/sprue. I would attach the wrist to a square of cardboard wix wax to make the wax easier to handle for the next steps.
Mix up dry 50/50 by weight, plaster (buy a 50lbs bag from a home store for $12-15) and silica flour (might be able to find locally at pottery supply or if flour is too difficult to find, use as fine as possible silica sand). This will be your investment.
Mix a small amount thinly and paint it on the surface of the hands, essentially making a very thin shell. This will help prevent bubbles from forming. Once the thin layer is on, Mix up a thicker mix and layer it on about a half inch thick. I usually would wrap it with some hardware cloth or steel wire about now. It will help the mold from cracking apart when heated. It does not need to be extremely tight it is just there to provide reinforcement. You can then cast or lay on a thicker mold around it. For a hand sized piece should for roughly 1" minimum plaster all the way around. The thicker the mold the longer it will take to dry out in the oven.
After the plaster is set I would give it a day, then in a 200 F ish oven melt out the wax. put a pan of water under and watch it like a hawk. The wax will melt and float on top, and the steam can help transfer the heat to the mold. This is a fire hazard so watch it. It will probably take a few hours. Once the wax is all out (this will melt out quicker as a slush mold vs solid wax) turn up the heat to 350, and cook it for 6-8 hours, then take it up to the max temp usually about 500 and cook it for at least 24 hours, more if possible, and more if considerably thicker than an inch. Long story short, you want all the free water gone.. Unless your oven goes over 600, there will be some H20 still chemically bonded in the plaster, but it should not matter too much if you drive off all free water. You can melt out and cook the mold ahead of time, but they will reabsorb moisture from air if not kept in hot dry place.
When you are ready to pour, you will want to pour these mold while still hot straight from the oven, and buried up to the top in sand ideally in something like a steel bucket. The sand will ensure nothing will seep out if the mold cracks. Level the wrist opening so it will cast evenly.
Be forewarned and perform at your own risk. Wear full protective layer of clothing, mask and head covering. These type of molds could easily trap moisture and cause a pop and send molten metal flying in the air that rain downs upon you. This can sometimes happen up to a minute or so after they are poured. Pour the aluminum in slowly, and if it starts to spit or pop up out of the mold, just stop. The mold is too wet to pour and needed to be dried further.
Casting tutorial
Mold making kit
For the mold: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LU4YFK6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
For the toy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CA5VY3U
For the vacuum pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071KZXVRR
Other supplies you'll need: vinyl gloves, cardboard and hot glue gun to make the mold box, paint mixing sticks, graduated measuring cups, disposable coffee cups, silicone or mica pigments, release agent (smooth on universal release agent), and a whatever you want as a model
Edit: if you have any other questions feel free to pm me
Pressure gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006VE306A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cloche:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797GVSXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Silicone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C4YQ4TU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Vacuum Pump:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-CFM-Rotary-Vane-Vacuum-Pump-1-4HP-HVAC-R134a-Air-Refrigerant-Conditioning/131845616776?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Vinyl-flex tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCV0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I bought a Synth too, but haven't used it yet - not pictured here, but the stem could definitely use work (hoping the Synth will help with that).
Honestly, I do a lot of DIY stuff and usually don't have trouble finding tutorials that I can halfway-decently follow (usually thanks to good posters). Unfortunately, that hasn't been the case for keycap molding/casting - it's pretty hard to find detailed/informative guides out there.
The best resource I've found isn't keycap related at all, it's this YouTube series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6q0fd3ileWLwTQ6pOUb8isS4BYLjkNhH
Let me know what you think!
As far as the resin goes, I read a post somewhere that said it's best to get it from a distributor because the majority of stuff on Amazon is bunk... That being said, I'm an Amazon fiend and just wanted enough material to get started.
I bought this set for the mold and resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QCHVC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this for coloring the resin: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZH0SFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm sure neither are the optimal choice, but they should be enough to get you started. From what I've gathered, information/secrets are held pretty close to the chest around here... So if you learn anything during your exploratory process, help a brother out! I'll try to do the same if you have any questions. :)
Good luck!
Hey there, basically you are going to need a clear epoxy resin- it comes in two parts and you mix only what you need right then. Lots of tutorials on the web for that. Here's a link to a popular one on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fnomDb01166D6
If you have a problem with your foot sliding forward, you can make your own.
Simply take this Molding Compound and take out your laces and pull the tongue of your skates all the way back. Roll up some of this and put it in the end of your skate. Slide your foot in the skate and allow the mold to harden. Take your foot out and remove the molding. Cut off any excess you don’t need. Take some super glue and glue the molding where it makes contact with the inside of the skate. Install the molding back into the skate and allow the glue to dry. This will give you a perfect fitting toe and will stop any sliding forward you may have.
What did Cinderella do when she got to the ball?
Gag
Ba dum tsss 🥁😂
If I win, I’d love this item from my list
Happy Birthday! 🎂🎉🎈
ah good catch. Do you have a preferred brand of food safe silicon molding? I found this guy but that's it
Maybe poli pastic or maybe Ingo Plastic
Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_km5QBb3DGQ2QP
This is s product called aginate. You mix it with water 1:1 by volume and it sets into a semi solid gel. It's derived from sea weed, and is very safe. This is the sort of product used for dental molds and sets within minutes. It's perfect for casting hands.
Pro tip: a quick spray of wd40 or some other spray lubricant on your arm/hand will help reduce the number of air bubbles that cling to the skin when molding. They will come through in the cast.
Edit: this is to get a plaster original. DO NOT POUR MOLTEN METAL IN TO ANYTHING WET! This stuff might work with wax, I haven't tried.
here is the resin
here is the silicon
here is the dye
i'm a poor art student so i've gone kinda the cheaper route, other stuff you might need are popsicle sticks, styrofoam cups to make your molds, and glitter and whatsuch if you'd like to go that route. over all i put about $60ish into the stuff i've linked above. good luck dude!
(edit: formatting bc mobile :p)
No, you can't melt silicon. First it can handle ridiculous temperatures, second you'd just get a goopy mess.
You need something like this
You have two separate problems to solve. 1st how to melt the metal. 2nd how to cast it into interesting shapes.
i'll start with the melting problem. I suggested an oxy-propane torch like this and a crucible like this. Those items are likely above your price point and I am just using the Riogrande.com catalog as an example for you, cheaper prices can be had if you shop around or go used. You will find these type of torches on Craig's list, they are common metal working equipment. Oxy-propane requires an oxygen tank and regulator. The reason I suggest this is because the oxygen will burn way hotter which means you can melt metal right in a crucible out in the open. Oxygen tanks can be found at your local welding supply store and are easy enough to obtain. No insulated foundry required and you can melt aluminum, pewter, bronze, brass, nickle silver, silver, and gold with this setup.
Anywho, that's the ideal setup for you. It will likely cost a hundred bucks or so to get it running. To be frank I think it's worth it because once people lean you can cast buckles they will buy them from you and the setup will pay for itself pretty quick. That's what happened to me, lol.
But if you insist on the no to zero cost option go ahead and build your mini foundry following the various online instructionals like this. Skip the steel crucible part and get a graphite one like this. Go with propane, not MAPP gas. Propane is cheaper and easier to obtain since it is available at every grocery store. I have to warn you once again though. There is a reason why everyone only talks about melting aluminum in these things. And its because they don't get that hot without an oxygen supply. Copper alloys melt hotter than aluminum. Upside is that you don't have much sunk cost, and melting aluminum is fun too.
OK, next step. Casting the metal into different shapes.
As other commenters have said, don't bother with clone-a-willy. But that doesn't mean all is lost! If you get this (or some other bag of alginate, you dont need the plaster) and this it's a little more complicated/you might need to practice casting something else first, but overall it works much better. I've tried both and it's definitely a better silicone, and for me the casting gave way better detail. All can feel free to PM for... detail😉 and some pointers I guess
Well, you could make a resin or clay mold and fill it up with plastic/metal (as in, use resin or clay w/old key to make a mold, filling it up with this stuff). Or you could use a 3D printer. But it's probably too much trouble.
That makes sense. I was looking into this. I would like to find something a little easier though. That low melting point plastic seems like a good idea as well.
Sure thing. So first thing I did was go outside and find some Rocks. Probably the hardest part. Had to find one with a flat bottom that I liked. I then make a mold out of it using Silicon Smooth-on stuff.
After I had the mold I built the harness which is just the Flickering LED attached to a CR2032 Holder, a 150 resistor, and a Switch. Ill update the imgur album with pics of the process when im not making50 more of these.
After building the harness I mixed the resin One I used with some dye and poured it in. then I built a little holder to hold the harness just out of the resin and let it dry for 8 hours. Then bam 1 soul stone is made. You should have enough mold to make about 5 molds of different stones pending on size. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Maybe these will help?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope_and_drag
https://www.amazon.com/2-Piece-Flask-Casting-Jewelry-Making/dp/B018ZMI7TA
https://www.amazon.com/UJ-Ramelson-Co-clayset-Casting/dp/B00JJ07G4K
Would you mind telling me which products you use? I was thinking this or this for the mold and I'm not sure what to use for the resin. Would this work?
I found this stuff for making molds I've never used silicone for anything other than sealing an aquarium and some doorm so I don't know a whole lot about it. There are a few different kinds of silicone. Which kind is best depends on what you want to do with it.
I like Oom-Moo 30 and SmoothCast or CastingClear for starters. That is if you are going for repeatable results.
You could also simply start with some plaster of paris or algaenate from your local art supply for single casts.
Good luck and post pics of your experience!
That's the stuff I use! I ended up going with the original version with wall clips rather than the Open Lock version. Then, we used a mold-making kit to mass-produce them out of plastic. I haven't painted them all yet, but for the ones I have I sprayed the standard gray primer and then dry-brushed with a lighter gray to get a really easy, cool look.
Here's the current state of affairs: https://imgur.com/a/ZAmYH
Actually yes! Just for the first time this past quarter actually. I 3d printed an object, then cast the negative in silicone. I then cast resin in resin that I will link below. The Tested series on Youtube was my guide, so I will also link that. I'm not sure how long it would take to cure for an entire site, if I am reading your post correctly, but for concept models its great.
https://www.amazon.com/Alumilite-Clear-Casting-Resin-Kit/dp/B00OS1DGNA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511853976&sr=8-5&keywords=alumilite+clear+casting+resin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1jDaZX6PCk
I used Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 300 and 305, it's great stuff but the cost really adds up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BN7G0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_lLMuzbE6RRXQF
https://www.amazon.com/Alja-Safe-Alginate-3-lb-Box/dp/B000KVSU60/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497491586&sr=8-1&keywords=alginate
They are ok for PH but acid level is a different animal. Google titration or "acid test" kits.
http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFUCY
Has anyone tried to use silicone rubber to fix this? Would probably require someone making a mold from an intact Pebble 2 out of Sugru or a 3D printer then pouring the silicone rubber material into the mold. The only thing is that I'm not sure how you could 'glue' the new buttons onto the side of the watch. Here's the link to the silicone material: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EOA25X2/
A note on silicone brands: I like Smooth-On Oomoo 25. I've tried that and the Oomoo 30 with good results. The '25' is a little bit more (but only like $6 or so), but it cures much faster (I think something around 1 hour, compared to the '30' which took maybe six hours).
https://www.amazon.com/Smooth-OOMOO-25-Curing-Silicone/dp/B01C4YQ4TU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=oomoo+25
I used this but switched to dental stone bc it was cheaper than the Skullduggery.
Silicone doesn't stick to itself, this was the only thing I could find that might work? https://www.amazon.com/Sil-Poxy-Silicone-Adhesive-Ounce-Tube/dp/B00IRC1YI0
And thanks for the packer tip, I literally just got a mr limpy today and it sticks out so much 😭
I used the ecoflex 00-30 super soft silicone! Here’s the link :)
https://www.amazon.com/Ecoflex-00-30-Super-Platinum-Silicone/dp/B00CA5VY3U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ecoflex+00-30&qid=1569823183&sprefix=exofle&sr=8-3
I bought some of this thinking it wouldn't work, but I'm very happy with it. I used it to mold severalpicture frames and it worked perfectly. You melt it in the microwave and then pour, very easy. And you can reuse it, you just remelt. I just saw this deal where you can get 3lbs of it used, that should be more than enough for your planter as long as you have a container to mold in
Used ComposiMold 3lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBMEKWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fmPYAbNBBQBTX
I've done something slightly similar with thermoplastics and a heat gun like "friendly plastic" by Amaco. If you could get a thin sheet of thermoplastic and use a heat gun to soften the plastic enough to take the shape of what's underneath it, and repeat that for each different shape it could work. You would run the risk of losing the previous shape each time it's heated if it gets too hot and isn't supported from below very well, but I think it's possible if you control the temperature well enough. I used a variable temperature hot-air desolderer to heat my plastic that was around $75 on ebay, but any sort of heat gun would work (possibly even a hot hair dryer)
this is the kind of stuff I'm talking about I made sheets myself from the pellets before I knew they sold it in sheets.
I don't know how polly plastics work, but the stuff used in clone-a-willy kits is called dental alginate, if that helps. It's super cheap online. If the polly plastic can melt to a point where it's pourable, but not super hot, perhaps you could cast a mold like that? If that doesn't work, I think that same company, smooth-on, sells different silicone mixes as well. That's a little more expensive though. Plus side is you get a ton of of it. Also, using silicone would make it an actual safe and functional sex toy.
What is your experience with silicone? Would this suffice and be firm enough?
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth--ECOFLEX-30-Supersoft-Platinum/dp/B00CA5VY3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452003040&sr=8-4&keywords=Platinum+silicone
I’m glad it’s staying shiny! I buy my resin on amazon: Clear Casting and Coating Epoxy Resin - 16 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BM9LHRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_qqqmCoR7iGUkh
It’s an easy 1:1 mixture, the hardest part is keeping hair/animals/fingers away from it while it cures!
Ugh, sorry - I use the technique they hid in the details
"A pH of 8.2 is also where a titration dye, phenolphthalein, changes color". It's definitely true that a GOOD ph meter will measure 8.2 more reliably than phenolphthalein, but mine is decidedly not a good one lol (I should really upgrade but they're such a pain). In either case it's generally true that measuring TA is more closely correlated to perceived sourness than PH so its a useful metric for deciding "sour enough" or at least "repeatable perception".
We bought one of these kits (from a local hbs but link for clarity) https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFUCY which has both the indicator and the 0.2N sodium hydroxide (note that that is 2x what most ppl are using for beer which is 0.1N - you can just use 1/2 as much -i.e. 1ml instead of 2ml or dilute 2:1 with distilled water - the latter will give more accurate readings).
The default setup for that kit is to measure acidity as tartaric so you have to do a slightly different calculation - basically take the calculation that comes with the kit and multiple the result by 1.2 to account for the different density of tartaric vs lactic.
If you work out the math the wort density is pretty much something you can just ignore (yeah it moves it a fraction of a point but.. whatever) especially if you're mostly controlling for "repeatable perception" on similar wort bases. The FG will have a dramatic impact on perception (sour beer == sweet/sour balance) so its worth taking into account in that regard but doesn't change measured acidity meaningfully.
Note also that different acids perceive dramatically different. Plantarum is good for producing very clean lactic, but if you're using something that produces acetic or other acids you can't strictly compare the perception 1:1 with a straight lactic ferment based on a simple analysis like this (or ph). Remember if you can smell the acidity using only your nose there's likely acetic in there (or some other funk your brain is translating as "sour").
Depends what quality you want. If you just want to start with something basic and easy:
OOMOO 30 Silicone Mold Making Rubber
Smooth-Cast 300 Liquid Plastic Compound
Sargent Art Plastilina Modeling Clay, 2-Pound, White (for making 2 part molds)
Legos or $-Store tupperware for mold walls. About $50-60. It's not super high quality, but it does work.
I use one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFUCY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=acid+test+kit+wine&qid=1556626594&s=gateway&sr=8-3
For you or anyone else that may be considering trying it, first buy extra mold making powder. We used this, Its cheap and changed colors when it was ready. We tossed out the tube after the first try and filled a bowl with mold goo instead, which was way easier to stick his dick in. Use a cock ring to stay hard and use slightly cooler water to make the mold set up quicker. Its going to be messy so I recommend doing it in a bathroom but the mold peels off easily so don't worry about ruining the floor or any tools. Its a fun thing to do together C; I got the glow in the dark viberator. Its actually a pretty nice toy. I got mine from adamandeve.com which always has huge deals like free shipping and 50% off with a quick google search.
Just about anything anyone could ever want is available from Amazon, a few products are linked below.
http://www.amazon.com/Smooth-On-751635837621-Alja-Safe-Alginate-3-lb/dp/B000KVSU60
http://www.amazon.com/Now-Foods-Lanolin-Pure-Ounce/dp/B000I1OYNK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373386654&sr=8-2&keywords=lanolin
http://www.amazon.com/Agar-Powder-4-oz/dp/B00015UC48
this
also this
might be into this
who doesn’t love a good taco holder
stick your genitals in this