(Part 3) Best building supplies according to redditors
We found 4,658 Reddit comments discussing the best building supplies. We ranked the 1,869 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
![[15W 24LED] Spotlights Work Lights Outdoor Camping Lights, Built-in Rechargeable Lithium Batteries (With USB Ports to charge Mobile Devices)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41e7JnT-I7L.jpg)
The Amazon reviews page if anyone wants to see the impact of bad press..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B01KUZ2JPS/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_btm?ie=UTF8
I've been looking at internet-enabled home devices (think Nest) and Cloud-anything has been a deal breaker for me EVERYTIME! Hell, the first-gen Nest's had the same issue - "Thanks for supporting us at the beginning, now fuck you! ;)"
I've managed to find some really nice hardware for my Thermostat, Sprinkler Controller (though I bought the 12-station controller) as well as hackable Wifi 120v (or 240v) light and switch controllers for $5-8 each!! And I totally forgot about my OpenGarage!
Each of these have open "REST" APIs that accept LAN requests to their local webserver (e.g. 192.168.1.15/api/do/something?key=secret&on=true) so they are wide-open to program against.
It also doesn't help that first page of review on Amazon are nearly all one-star from verified purchasers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUZ2JPS
These carbon filters are used mostly in commercial spaces. In the United States they are commonly found in marijuana grow houses to move air outside. A carbon filter removes a high percentage of odors to reduce the risk of detection.
I like them in my home because I'm not a fan of buying other scented products that "mask" smells. When I walk into my home and my carbon filter is on it smells clean. I'm not sure if that clean smell is due to something from the carbon? Either way it's a clean, crisp smell that many people comment on and cannot be replicated by chemicals.
Cons: inline fans are loud and the system is a little bulky. Noise can be reduced by adding ducting to the end or buying insulated fans as referenced below.
Pros: I breath amazing air. You can cook/smoke inside your home and it's still going to smell amazing!
Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008NYF8S4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Quiet fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EIRU2YU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mr. Heater F232017 MH9BXRV Buddy... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6C4MY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Just ran a test on this: one standard propane bottle ran full heat around 4 hours & could easily keep a large tent warm. Listed as safe for indoors & I didn’t catch any gas smell. Unit is pretty well built & costs around $75.
I also got an adapter to run full sized BBQ propane tanks. Seems a decent “worse case” supplemental heater, but would cut thru your propane supply pretty quick.
/u/Jacob_Cx
Order 2 of these things right now
https://www.amazon.com/Spotlights-Outdoor-Camping-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1504636856&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+flood+light
It’s this device, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.
I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.
This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...
Then that's a shitty ass gun range. Most ranges don't give a shit about retarded laws. Personally I have a copy of the March 21, 2017 letter on me when I take my AR 9 to the range.
Anyways here's my AR 9
http://i.imgur.com/D4onaM8.jpg
http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-9mm-7-5-pistol-length-6-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-hybrid-bcg-and-ch.html
http://palmettostatearmory.com/review/product/list/id/23736
https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Rifles-Shotguns-Ozark-Armament/dp/B010OMQSR2
https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Armament-Picatinny-Flat-top-Co-Witness/dp/B01AISP1KW
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006228190/glock-magazine-gen-4-glock-17-19-26-34-9mm-luger-33-round-polymer-black
https://www.kakindustry.com/shockwave-black
3/21/2017 ATF Letter (PDF) on allowing shouldering: https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/atf-letter-march-21-2017.pdf
https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MAG406-BLK-Polymer-Section-5-Slot/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_200_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3Z3PEQ2R635682GQ1XKM
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319453274/magpul-afg2-angled-forend-grip-ar-15-polymer
A lot of people including me use lanterns or propane heaters. There's usually enough airflow not to harm you. In my older shanty I even used to have a wood burning stove in it. It was a little dude for a wood burner but it kicked ass.
This is the heater I use most:
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232017-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY
Sure:
Personally, I use this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_cuOCAb6Y51VGP). It's not intended for mountain biking, but you can securely attach it to bars via bunje cords. It's extremely bright, casts a huge angle, and illuminates 30-50 feet ahead. I've been using it for group rides with my buddies, and it's powerful enough that if we stay close to each other it's the only light source we need. Certainly not the most practical solution though.
https://i.imgur.com/fs09cfI.jpg
I carry this in my Fiat 500e in winter. A Mr. Heater Buddy (sold at most hardware stores and Amazon) to make sure I never end up with no heat even if I have no power. This little heater puts out up to 9000 btu's so it'll roast you right out of the car if you put it on high, but even with just the pilot light running it'll keep you from freezing to death and the low setting is good right down to -20c.
And now to answer all the Negative Nellies who jumped all over this last time I posted:
a) No you will NOT die - it has a CO sensor and will automatically shut itself off if the oxygen level in your car gets low. Ive slept with it on in my car. It works just fine. Just crack a window open and quite hyperventilating, ya nancy.
b) Yes it has an auto shutoff if it tips over.
c) No, its not illegal to carry propane in your car - you can legally carry gas in a gas can and that's WAY more dangerous than a propane bottle.
d) No, a propane tank won't explode if you're in an accident. Please watch the Mythbusters episode where they TRY to blow up a propane tank with a high powered bullet - it doesnt work.
e) No, it won't void your insurance if you're carrying propane anymore than carrying cigarette lighters, a butane camp stove, fireworks or charging your cellphone or computer (which sometimes catch on fire). Quit making shit up - y'all need to let go of your momma's hands and try taking a couple of steps outside the basement all by yourself. You'd be surprised how freeing it is LOL
I just installed mine last night, you need the my q internet gateway, not all openers come with it, but the serial number is on the bottom of the gateway. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230823&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=myq
Suspicious, but ReviewMeta's adjusted score is still 4/5.
I installed this in my 3 seasons room this year. It's not the prettiest, but I mounted the inline fan outside underneath the overhang of my roof so it won't get wet. I ran ducting into the room and attached the filter to it. The fan is rated at 442 CFM, so it moves quite a bit of air. So far it's been amazing. No smell leaks into my house any more, and the room doesn't get too smokey since it also acts as an exhaust fan.
Ive used one a few times:
(https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=3m+eraser+wheel&pd_rd_r=0a9f7541-1a45-45ff-b163-c6cfab173a0e&pd_rd_w=dQLT6&pd_rd_wg=DYqgw&pf_rd_p=7be70e42-b5c0-4077-873a-35a472a6fbd4&pf_rd_r=TN1R5CFFCVTP7YSH9NFG&qid=1569271761&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEs2R1pMWkdYQ1o1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM0MTAxMkpLN1hVUFcyTlQxSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk5MDg0TkZNTzVXR0RSSVhFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
They make a big mess (imagine using a pencil eraser x 1000), but get they job done. They mark up the wall a little, but not enough you should have to patch it.
It's the base of a work light, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hallomall-Spotlights-Outdoor-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B015E6M23C
I got some thermal bubble wrap last week and made a cover for my tank, which I recently upgrade from 10G to 29G. I was shocked at how effective it was! I had three UTH heaters that I cobbled together, but they were still struggling to keep it at 75. After adding the insulation I was able to unplug all but one of them. I was checking on it every half hour or so and went "whoa nelly!" as the temps got to 85 degrees with the same heating setup (they probably would have kept climbing, too!)
My house has gotten down to 68 degrees recently, but the tank is maintained at 80 during the day with 25W lamp and 75 at night (with a warm spot up to 84 and cold spot down to 77 during the day). Planning on plugging in another UTH heater if I need to, if we let the house get a little colder during the winter, especially at night. I can always add panels to the current insulation for emergency situations if I need to as well.
I got the wrap from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS There are probably ways to get smaller quantities and/or get it cheaper than $20, but I was also thinking about insulating some basement windows we don't like, so I just went and got 10' of it!
The tank wrapper was a little tricky to make: https://imgur.com/a/7gPYNpH I measured really well, cut accurately and made a box out of it. It wraps all the way around on the sides facing the wall, and wraps 3" over the top (covering the plastic/cords/cord gap, which makes it more escape proof!) and about 5" on the other side to add a little more insulation. I scored the opposite side of the bubble wrap (cut halfway through) when folding the corners -- that way you get a sharp edge instead of an awkward "wrap around." And then just added a little aluminum foil tape to the 3" sections where it attaches to itself in the corners at the top and voila!
To make it really nice, I glued some velcro strips to the black plastic on the tank, and corresponding velcro strips to my thermal box, so I can stick it on and get it really snug and secure. There are a few sticky velcro dots holding it on the top -- I got a little lazy and didn't want to glue anymore :(
Anyway, it took a bit to get it right, but all told, it was only $5 in materials (if you pro-rate the roll of thermal insulation by how much I actually used) and increases the temps by at least 10 degrees F over what I was getting before! Super amazing stuff!
So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.
If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit Chamberlain.com/MyQGarage"
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sTNmDbM3E6BNS
This made the job on mine SO much easier.
My vinyl guy gave me one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Sticker-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K to remove my decals, but mine were older. Also, these: https://smile.amazon.com/Ehdis-Visibility-Plastic-Scraping-Windshields/dp/B01HLWB0BM for scraping. Acetone and/or alcohol to remove any residue. This will also remove wax, so re-wax when you're done.
If you do have a shadow, try Hops143 polishing, but I think I'd skip the Heavy Duty compound. Try a small area with just the Finesse-It first, and see if that's satisfactory. You don't want to create more work for yourself, and it doesn't look oxidized. Here's more than you ever needed to know about compound/polish/wax - https://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/52772-tips-compound-polish-wax.html
The current reviews on Amazon are amazing.
Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but Reflectix is pretty close. I've used it to keep my pot hot and make it easier to hold after cooking, it's decent, but not thermos level insulation.
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS
If you ever order groceries online (like from Amazon Fresh or Prime Now), you can get this stuff for free from the bags they put your groceries in
Overhead Door is the only company that comes to mind for any reputable company in the area. You can actually mod an existing garage door to do different things. I found some resources from Amazon a while back. I have a LiftMaster, so I saved this stuff for myself. I'm sure that you can find easy solutions similar to this. Greetings from Hanover.
Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ebl1DbZCCAZZ0
Chamberlain/Liftmaster Cigbu Internet Gateway For Myq Technology Enabled Garage Door Openers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcl1DbM8CD8JJ
Everything looks good besides the ventilation. That fan lacks the static pressure needed to pull air through a carbon filter. You need something more like this, though I recommend a quality fan if affordable. Also, you want to pull air from the top of the tent. If you pull from the bottom, you are going to have hot, stagnant air above the filter.
You'll probably be alright, but a dimmable power supply is helpful, especially in a small space.
Right I guess what I mean is that you have to keep in mind that your gpu Temps show in celsius but you're reading your ambient Temps in Fahrenheit. So 109 is super hot for a human but is nice and cool for a gpu at only 42 degrees celsius.
There have been lots of posts on r/gpumining where people have done similar set ups to yours. To be honest in this situation having a smaller shed would be more beneficial because it'd be easier to expel the hot air which is the number one most important thing. You don't need to cool the air from the outside you just need circulation of air . You need to install one or two giant exhaust fans in the top of your shed and one or two at the bottom as intakes. Here is exactly what I'm talking about
In this guy's setup, his boxes are small enough that his giant ass exhaust fans actually are strong enough to suck air in the sides so he doesn't even need a separate intake fan. I doubt you'd be able to do the same though because of the size of your shed. I guarantee if you just invest in some quality fans. And I don't mean box fans I mean ones like this that will really start getting fresh air in and hot air out you will be fine and won't need the ac units. Especially because those ac units themselves use a lot of juice I imagine they've got to be wrecking your profits.
Just search on YouTube for "gpu mining shed" or "gpu grow tent" and you'll get a lot of good ideas. One YouTuber in particular id check out is Angry Chicken
I know this is a a complete rebuild but you might consider multiple smaller sheds like in the first link. Smaller enclosures allow for better circulation.
Either way, good luck!
I have 2 of these in my house for 2 different zones, and love them. They're not "smart" thermostats, but they have wifi connectivity, and connect using the honeywell "total connect comfort" app you can download on your smart phone, or through their website.
You can pop open the app on your phone, view the current temperature, schedule, and make any changes directly from your phone.
I'm not sure if you can control 2 zones with 1 thermostat, but even if you could you'd need remote sensors and such since the thermostat can only be in 1 location.
Yes you can. This one is rock solid and $78.
Honeywell Home Wi-Fi 7-Day Programmable Thermostat (RTH6580WF), Requires C Wire, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oIdzDbG5DTREV
First of all, thanks for sharing the video. I think metal casting is really interesting, and it's great to see how different people approach it.
> It's ok to be brutal.
Alright -
I really hate the music you used.
I'm also not a big fan of videos where that show the entire process at 10x playback (or whatever speed) - to me that indicates that you're showing too much. When I see videos like this, I click through around the timeline to find the interesting parts. Show the critical parts at regular speed and cut out the extra bits. Tell me (or show me) why something is a critical step.
Increase your lighting for better video. Do you have some work lights? Get two of them as close as possible to what you're working on at different angles and try filming like that (the closer you have a light source to a subject, the more even it appears. Far away lights appear as "points"). Set the white balance on your camera to account for the color temperature of the lights. Or if you have any kind of desk lamp, try pointing it at whatever you're filming. You'll have to experiment with what looks best with what you've got.
During the wax carving section, a huge portion of the frame felt wasted. You could have gotten much tighter on the actual carving, which would have drawn me in more than looking at a 90% static shot. Again, slowing down here and showing why you make certain carving decisions would have been more interesting. For instance, why did you carve out the middle then re-fill it? I had no idea what was going on there.
I felt bad for the clippers you used to get the wax out of the can. They look like flush cut electronics clippers, which usually say something like "For Copper Only". This indicates that using them on harder metal (like a can) will damage the cutting surface. But they're your tools.
From a PPE perspective, I would strongly consider wearing leather boots while pouring molten metal. But I can be clumsy at inopportune times and I like my toes.
Today in lulzy Amazon & IoT (Internet of Trash) news:
Guy buys a "smart" garage door opener that can be controlled by smartphone. He has trouble setting it up, gets frustrated, posts a one-star Amazon review. Owner of the company retaliates by blacklisting his specific garage door opener on their servers, rendering it useless.
Thread on the company forums, Hacker News thread, Amazon product page.
Reflectix would probably work in this scenario as well, not sure how expensive those sun reflectors are.
Reflectix is this shiny insulation stuff (similar to a car sun visor) you can get at hardware stores. It's really easy to work with and makes great insulated cozys or bags for dehydrated meals.
Here's a quick tutorial on how to make them, again it's pretty straightforward - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FTln2_5Pgo
This is reflectix, if you are decently crafty it's pretty straight forward to make a little thing to put a tupperware in to keep it warm -
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496262196&sr=1-1
and Here is the type of tupperware I was mentioning, I've used them as a bowl on many trips and they have always worked great (they have 2 different sizes) - https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Containers-Small-Lids/dp/B003UEGZCA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496262262&sr=8-2
I recently got a roll of Reflectix to bump up the warmth and protect the air mattress. It folds down small and is very lightweight. But, more than a little more heat, I feel it will take any thorns or other pokey things that might come through the tent floor or if I'm cowboy camping.
Well.. If that's not working you should just buy the cheapest carbon filter + fan on amazon and be done with it IMO.
Although, even with a good filter and fan you have to have some negative pressure meaning that you have to suck out more air than you pull in. If you can't get negative pressure then the smell can leak out. If you have a tent and you get a real fan and filter you'll see the walls suck in when you close the tent and that means theirs negative pressure.
Here's some amazon links.
Filters-
https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-Carbon-Charcoal-Control-Filter/dp/B00QLB5U70/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987037&sr=8-9&keywords=carbon+filter
https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-Carbon-Charcoal-Control-Filter/dp/B00QLB5U70/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987037&sr=8-9&keywords=carbon+filter
Fans-
https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-Variable-Controller-Ventilation/dp/B01C6IJSB0/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987316&sr=8-11&keywords=inline+fan+4%22
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Inline-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987316&sr=8-14&keywords=inline+fan+4%22
Or just get a whole kit..
https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF4-CF4-B-Controller/dp/B005GJ7TFE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987446&sr=8-8&keywords=inline+fan+4+inch
Also you can save about 19 dollars by buying this kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GJ7TFE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1454015965&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=ventech&dpPl=1&dpID=51BOvHdX3AL&ref=plSrch
Putting them outside right away can be bad for a few reasons. They’re delicate and sensitive to intense light, changes in temperature, gusting wind, and predators. They do not have the strength or root systems in place yet to recover from any environmental stress. Unless you get very lucky with weather and the cosmos are aligned juuuust right, you might be in for a rough time. Getting leggy is definitely a possibility with them being inside and not having a grow light, but you can always bury the stems pretty deeply when you transplant them and are ready to put them out. Your window isnt ideal, but it’s probably still a better bet at this time. You can also find a pretty cheap grow light option if you have $ 15 to spare. Here’s an entry level fixture for a nice CFL grow bulb. It’s $10 on amazon prime with free shipping. You can also find these at the hardware store, or a discount store like big lots (I got em for 5-8$ there)
https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523460361&sr=8-3&keywords=Clip+shop+light&dpID=41EfPZ5XphL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Simple CFL grow bulbs in the 6500K “daylight” spectrum. 4 pack of bulbs for $15. You can look around for cheaper ones, but just try to find the highest wattage equivalent you can, at 6500K spectrum.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1523460444&sr=1-4&keywords=CFL+6500k&dpID=41aqLa5KpiL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Not OP...but I have a bunch of plant grow lights for my houseplants and can answer
If you go to Amazon and search SANSI full spectrum grow lights, you can find an assortment of sizes and wattages. I have a couple in the 30 watt range and they are amazing lights
Then you simply have to get a medium to large clamp on shop light and aim the lamp wherever you want the light to go.
These sansi bulbs are also pretty light weight. I currently have one just hanging from the ceiling over my palm so it gets as much light as it needs to stay big and healthy. And its bright enough so that plants in the room also get some ambient light.
Ive also had really good luck with this clamp on light. I chose this one because its bright, its white full spectrum light, and it doesn't come with a built in timer.
I plug my grow lights into WIFI outlet plugs so I can custom set the schedule depending on the day of the week.
Other tips. The pink style grow lights tend to have good results with young growing plants. You can get the clamp on LED versions all over Amazon. But I have had better over all luck with full spectrum white LED lamps. Plus the pink light just doesn't feel as nice as full spectrum white.
In the deep winter, those full spectrum lamps can really give you the feeling of sunlight...which helps with happiness
I have almost the same opener as you. I wanted something simple to allow remote open/close and notifications if it's been open. I didn't really want the complexity of SmartThings so I went with the Chamberlain Gateway. It works great and you can setup custom push notifications that notify you through their app.
I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!
I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
Personal experience here -- the iPower 4 inch filter / inline fan combo didn't work very well at all for me. My entire garage smelled like herb.
What I have now, although was a bit more pricey:
Phresh 701005 Carbon Air Filter, 6 by 16-Inch, 400 CFM
Vortex 347 CFM S Line S-600 Fan, 6"
iPower 6 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting Dryer Vent Hose for HVAC Ventilation, 2 Clamps included
CARTMAN 1" x 12' Lashing Straps up to 600lbs, 6pk in Carry Bag
 
Here's how it looks:
Grow Tent
I have the same size tent and 2 similar galaxyhydros so I will say we have a similar setup. I started with a simple exhaust fan and I will vouch for the fans that are actually made for filters. Simply the massive amount of heat it sucks out is well worth the extra money in itself, plus you will go to almost no smell with a proper fan. I started with this and now I have this and I feel it was well worth the extra money. With the first fan I was consistently over 80-85 degrees but with the second fan I never went over 77. No smell outside the tent
I used these to remove hundreds of square feet of decals off my 5th wheel, they are amazing and I wish I found them sooner. Doesn’t hurt the finish at all.
Whizzy Wheel
I've had a great experience with Radio Thermostat. I have 2x CT50s that I bought used for ~$60/ea. Just make sure you get one with the wifi module. They run a web service for control & logging but the android app communicates directly w/ the thermostat if on the same network.
http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA
>A year later it's still pretty great but sometimes cuts out after about 20 minutes of use... at the very worst moment it's cut out a couple of times now.
That's actually a built-in "feature" of the Magic Wand Rechargeable to keep it from overheating. Which seems unnecessary because the toy doesn't really get hot and you can turn it straight back on after, but yeah. It's got a 20-minute auto shut off.
>are all three of these the same crappy wand just different colors and labels ?
Probably. There are a lot of white label sex toys on the market, meaning they're made by a single manufacturer and any company can order them with their own branding to sell as their own.
>Must:
>
>have a scrolling speed control wheel
>
>just as powerful as the Hitachi or more so
>
>not spending $150+ ... ideally lets keep it under $100
I don't think you're going to find a single toy that ticks all of these boxes, unfortunately. The only scroll wheel vibes I know of are lower quality and definitely weaker than all three of the Magic Wand iterations.
Also keep in mind that RPM doesn't actually indicate the power of a wand, just the speed of its motor. Depending on the individual motors there can be higher RPM toys that are weaker than lower RPM ones, like the Magic Wand Rechargeable's 6,300 RPM on high versus the Magic Wand Original's 6,000. The Original is still slightly stronger in use.
If you want, your best bet for all those features might be to get the Magic Wand Original, swap the porous head with Vixen's Off With Your Head silicone replacement, and pair the toy with a router speed controller for incremental adjustment. (Keep in mind that this may shorten the lifespan of the motor, but a lot of Magic Wand fans swear by it.)
Otherwise, the Magic Wand's only real competitor for strength is the original Doxy Massager (their Die Cast is a bit weaker and also over your budget), but it's got button controls and a PVC head.
+1 for Honeywell, but no need for a "smart" thermostat for this. The only benefit you're missing out with a regular wifi is the "learning" capabilities of the smart unit. A simple wifi unit will be controllable from your phone, and are a fraction of the cost of the smart units.
These units are currently $90, but I've regularly seen them or similar units on sale for ~$80. Take a look at your local big box and see if they have any deals.
Another thing to check is to see if your utility providers offer any sort of rebates or incentives for smart or wifi thermostats.
Keep in mind that a lot of smart or wifi thermostats require a common wire, so if you have dont have one and don't have the extra wire you may need to run a new wire.
Since you're on National Grid, you can get a smart thermostat for free if you don't want to shell out the cash for a Nest. The Honeywell RTH6580WF is only $64 on Amazon, and Mass Save will give you a rebate of up to $100 (rebate form here).
Having a WiFi thermostat is great. You can program it to turn down automatically at night and when you're away at work, and when you're away you can monitor the temperature remotely or turn the thermostat down if you forgot to do so before you left. If you want to get really fancy, you can link the thermostat to https://ifttt.com and have it automatically adjust the thermostat based on the weather, whether your and your wife's phones are a certain distance from home, if you have a trip on your calendar, etc.
$83: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/
I use this one and it's great.
Venstar Add-A-Wire Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505259903&sr=8-1&keywords=Venstar+Add-A-Wire
Buy the add-a-wire and you will then have a common wire. Easy to do, trust me.
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B9SRAbW6XM3TD
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC
something like this, that mystically adds a wire perhaps?
Verified purchase reviews on Amazon do not harken confidence in the product or the company.
In case you don’t see the other answer, if it is “dumb” in that it’s just a dial and a switch, turn it to the highest temperature and leave it on then plug it into a thermostat type device like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/
My house is decently insulated and the heat works fairly well, that is with exception of my bedroom. The bedroom is upstairs but only has a single radiator for what is the largest single room in the house. It's comfortable until the coldest parts of the cycle, and with one thermostat that's downstairs it's never going to get better.
I use an electric heater with a remote thermostat that I bought on Amazon (link below) in my bedroom. This allows me to turn down the heat in the entire house at night and to save on gas while also meaning my bedroom isn't fucking freezing come 5am. It's a nice balance of heat and $. I use a cheap electric heater (link below), it's surprisingly quiet and will easily take the chill off the room.
All of that said, a programmable thermostat is also golden. Turn the heat down when you're at work and asleep. Also, insulate your windows (and make sure they are locked as it helps seal the frame) with plastic covering and cover door gaps with blankets or heavy door mats. All these little tricks add up.
A $200 bill is a big gas bill in my three bedroom house, but you'll have to give this a shot to decide if it saves money.
Thermostat for electric heater - https://www.amazon.com/Nashone-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-thermostat/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=thermostat+wireless&qid=1572803946&sr=8-12
Electric heater - https://www.amazon.com/Brightown-Adjustable-Thermostat-Portable-Protection/dp/B01L1O7MPE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=electric+heater&qid=1572804045&sr=8-8
The problem here is that you're trying to apply a solution that will end up causing more problems than it will solve. You're talking about staple-up radiant heat in a home with a thick decking subfloor (much thicker than the 3/4 OSB or plywood that's standard in more modern homes) that's below very old softwood floors that are likely to warp on you if you go through with your plan. On top of that, you're gonna be looking at running a 240v breaker for it (assuming your home's electrical can handle another breaker and the extra load, if it's even been upgraded to breakers from old Edison fuses and the meter has been upgraded from the old 60A - I see you stated elsewhere that the electrical hasn't been updated). You're talking a four, possibly five figure investment versus $200 in ductwork and an additional vent, or a simple space heater and a plug-in thermostat.
To realistically do this the right way, you'd need to first update all the electrical, pull up the flooring, install an appropriate system (hot water/glycol would be a better choice than resistive), and replace and refinish the floors.
My grandpa's house is 100 years old. I'm well aware of what happens when you start tearing into and modifying homes that old: nothing good. TBH, this should be near the bottom of the "honey do" list.
So the light intensity, which is given in lumens, is really the important thing. Lumens scale with power though. I just mean don't get the tiny light bulbs. I have used this one. A reflector lamp isn't the most aesthetically pleasing but it is the cheapest way to get the job done. These can give you a lot of intensity right under the bubl but because the bulb is small the really good area is not too large. The advantage of the T5 bulb is that it is that they distribute the light over a longer distance. giving weaker light but over a larger area which means you just need to have the light on longer in a given day. Also, remember that intensity falls off with distance squared so you get the biggest bang for your buck by putting the succulents close to the light.
I'm a big fan of sleeping in vehicles to save on rent. I've lived in my truck for 2+ years, and I love it.
What kind of car do you have? Do the back seats fold down for you to sleep like that? You can also sleep across the interior but you'll have to black out all the windows and buy a sun shade.
I have curtains using hooks, binder clips, and bungee cords, but I'm going to switch to Reflectix soon. Look up some YouTube videos on ideas how to do it. I got the idea from these guys.
You've got some spaces and some friends so you don't necessarily need a gym membership to keep up with hygiene, but you need a place to make shits. You'll find those places no problem; I'd just keep some sanitary wipes to clean the toilet seats.
I cut Reflectix in the shape of my windows, and duct taped black fabric to one side. Blacks out the windows and provides a little insulation (I only camp in winter when skiing).
Reflectix: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538621730&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Reflectix&dpPl=1&dpID=31Io%2BmGxiWL&ref=plSrch
You could probably get a nicer look by using this Bubble Pack Insulation
I did this last year and it worked great! This year I am upgrading to bubble wrap insulation: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO I got a wide roll of it at a hardware store and plan to duct tape it to the tent then tie rope over it.
> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?
Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.
Cover all windows with this https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501096818&sr=8-2&keywords=reflectix
use red Stucco tape to cover the exterior windows. It keeps a lot of heat out.
I made myself a Reflectix sleeping pad when I first got my hammock. Reflectix is basically two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between two layers of Mylar/space blankets. It helps, and helps quite a bit—you might even get away with on a warm summer night—but it's nothing compared to even a cheap, low-quality underquilt.
I'd say bring the space blanket since they're so cheap and light, but there's a reason everyone has/recommends underquilts. You can't skip it, as I learned firsthand.
Gun smiths.
Are you going to be using a laser sight or a laser pointer?
Like buy a 4 segment rail and another picatinny thingy and mate the two things with epoxy or something. At a 90 degree angle.
Magpul 5 slot MOE rail section
Quick 3 minute install. costs about $6
https://imgur.com/a/4WI8ply
If you're going to grow in your closet (which sounds like the best option) you will want a carbon filter to prevent it from stinking up your place. You can buy carbon filter/fan combos on amazon that are very reasonably priced. This is a good option for a closet size grow.
The one light will work and it's the one thing I wouldn't go cheap on. You could get the smaller size and still be ok. As for the carbon filter [this one on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF4-CF4-B-Controller/dp/B005GJ7TFE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449034018&sr=8-2&keywords=4inch+carbon+filter+fan+combo) comes with a speed controller which is great for reducing noise and controlling temps. You can mount the fan in the tent or out. It will sound like a fan is running 24/7. No different then a window fan. None of my house guests comment on it. Plus a nice filter and high power fan will be far less noticeable then weed stinking up the whole house.
As for number of plants I would do 3-4 on the first go so you get the hang of it and can make a mistake on one or have a male and not feel bad. The plants will grow as big as you want to allow. They will fill in all the space that is available. Also read up on trimming up all the lower growth once you flip light cycles so you get maximum large main nuggets. For example I had two sugar black rose in 5gal (19L) buckets and got about 200g dried. Now I'm doing one plant in a 10gal (38L) and it's much more hearty and bush like, explosive with growth, and yield should be similar. So if you want a lot of one strain go big or always do 2 so if you loose one you can just up pot real big and still expect a similar yield each time you harvest. Also 2 months is a tight time window it may be more like 3+ you can't rush nature :) going up to a larger pot as soon as you can allows the plant to get big right away. Keeping them in cups or starter pots longer then a few weeks it will grow more leaves when roots are stable, going up to larger pots right after that allows the roots to reach out more and gain large new growth. Only up pot about 3 times. You can always veg for as long as you want and flower will run another 6-8 weeks depending on the strain.
Philips 23 watt 6500k CFL bulbs (you can also pick these up at your local home improvement store): https://www.amazon.com/Philips-433557-100-watt-Equivalent-Bright/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=philips+23+watt+cfl&qid=1550422990&s=gateway&sr=8-3
And don't forget clamp lamps: https://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-169-Clamp-Light/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=clamp+lamps&qid=1550423123&s=hi&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1
​
Depending on how much space you have for a decent setup, you might want to consider T5 light bulbs and fixtures if you want more even distribution of light. I find that I have to put all my succulents together under or around the the lamp in order to get good growth and stress colors out of them. As long as the light bulbs are on or around 6500K (cool white light) then your plants will get the right amount of light that they would get if they had some sunlight.
Something like this but the reflector is much smaller.
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-0169-8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427609427&sr=8-1&keywords=Clip+on+light+with+reflector
Yeah if you flower under that you'll probably get some stretchy light leafy buds. It doesn't have to be a single 125w clf. Get some regular 2700k soft white cfl house light bulbs at Lowe's and a few cheap lamps or a multi socket lamp if you can find one. Or just buy some of these and swap them for yours when it's flower time.
Get this (or the Liftmaster one):
https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-CIGBU-Internet-Gateway-Enabled/dp/B00B7CDSQ8
Get this sensor:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11987
Load this smart app via the Smartthings IDE
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-myq-lite-for-liftmaster-chamberlain/49150
Enjoy!
iPower GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C 6Inch High CFM Inline Exhausting Fan & Carbon Air Filter w/1050+ IAV Australia Virgin Charcoal,Pre-Filter Included,Reversible Flange & 25Feet Ducting w/2Clamps Combo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R339ybXV2D584
Probably be able to get a way with a 4" fan/filter if it's not too hot in there
If you want a list of materials you'll need, go on Google Maps and find your local hydroponics store. Any clerk at those stores will help you out. They will also help you understand the basics of a set up.
The real necessities of an indoor grow are:
A grow tent (I prefer Gorilla Grow )
A grow light (I prefer California LightWorks )
An inline ventilation system with carbon filter Link for example.
Then there are optional appliances like an indoor air conditioner or an air filter.
This completes the "set-up".
Then you have to decide what kind of grow you're planning - Soil, Coconut husk, water culturing. Typical gardening uses soil and it's what most people are used to. So unless you already understand the other stuff, start with soil.
For soil, you'll want fabric 5-gal pots with plastic drip pans underneath.
It's also recommended to get some sort of support for the plants - either a SCROG net, or a tomato cage (I prefer cages for mobility).
So you fill the fabric pots with soil, put it in your set-up grow tent. Now you need to get seeds going. There are tons of youtube videos showing this, you can google them.
That's really it. You can add nutrients to the soil, but most soil has base nutrients in it already. You really won't need to add much, and if you're not adding much; you won't need to flush really either.
Just watch the pH of you water. Cannabis likes a lower pH (around 5.8 to 6.3). You can get a cheap pH meter, but they need to be cared for. Store the probe in the storage solution and calibrate often. Hannah or Blue Labs are what I'm used to using. When you buffer the pH of a solution, remember the free h ions follow an "S" curve. What this means is adding a drop of pH down when you measure 10.1 may not move that down far (like to 10.0). But if you add a drop of pH down when you measure 7.2, it may drop much faster (like to 4.5).
Would this combo set up be everything I needed for the inline fan, filter, duct etc. to work with my lighting?
Also, one more thing - I have had one seed between a few damp paper towels and two paper plates. I started that last night at 8pm CST, and still no signs of any sprout showing or any reaction. I have it now soaking in a bit of water. I understand that most of the time you want to soak the seed for 24 hours, but since it was in between the damp paper towels - how long should I let it soak? Or should I just go ahead and plant the seed in the pot? Again much thank you's in advance.
I have been using an ipower 4" centrifugal fan for a couple months and for the style of fan it is, it is pretty quiet and doesnt make any rattles/wobbles or anything even when hooked up to a controller. It's really well made, solid aluminum and I had no issues hanging it in my 2x4 tent with all my other lights and stuff. Just dont EVER buy the ipower filter to go with it. They're total junk.
But it definitely isnt on the top of my list for best fans. If you'd be willing to bump up to 6" while staying around the same CFMs (which allows you room to upgrade to bigger tent in the future too) then hands down check this fan out.
They're practically silent, which is just awesome! Only moves 350cfm versus most other 6" which do 440cfm but in your space, and all the way up to about a 4x4' it is plenty. Ive heard nothing but good things about them, im gonna pick one up for next grow,.
Get this fan. Proper ventilation is super important for many things.
Seeing as you want LED, Mars Hydro is a good option for the price. For my 3x3x7 space I have a 900 watt LED, a bit strong but its working great.
Im always going to recommend more natural techniques, so if you are interested give this a thorough read
Thanks! I used this fan with this speed controller, but i found the speed controller only worked over a very small range on the dial. I will likely replace the fan when I automate it with a Rapsberry Pi controller.
Thought I'd chime in. I just got my airbrush compressor and airbrush last Friday. But I'd done a bit of research and had a plan.
I built this out of parts from Amazon totaling $50 and a cardboard box.
The main components are:
An air filter. Try and get something that filters more particulates. Like smoke, mold and pollen, but a nice one if you aren't blowing the stuff outside.
A cheap 4in hose like you'd have behind your dryer.
This thing. Dust Hood for 4-Inch Hose
And the Air Motivator
Though I'd recommend getting a different vent booster, as this one is a bit weak. But it does work. The great thing about a vent booster is 2 fold. It's already 4 inches wide so it fits right on the 4 in hose. And it's at the other end of the hose. So the noise is very muted. Though this fan is pretty quite. I'd say it's more quite than a tiny desk fan.
Oh. And we can't forget. About a kilometer of Duck Tape.
I've used 4 inch duct inline booster fans like this.
Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6BL11U/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_11?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=INJZA8XHNGF94
Filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HT0GZ8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_12?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=I4RUWHOCF7T3S
https://www.amazon.com/Whizzy-Wheel-Decal-Remover-Adapter/dp/B00FJF0O2K
Assuming this is vinyl, I use one of these for decal removal at work. I then use this product for any cleanup. With those, i can strip off commercial truck door signage in just a few minutes with no paint damage.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Pinstriping-Removing-Diameter-Whizzy/dp/B00FJF0O2K
those will do the trick, just need to be careful so you dont burn the paint
No, it's not safe. Expect either the fan or the dimmer to overheat and possibly catch fire. Light dimmers are designed to dim lights, not control fans or electric motors.
You might try a fan speed controller, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Variable-Controller-Hydroponics-Exhaust-Adjuster/dp/B00U3LD1WA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1466731230&sr=8-10&keywords=fan+speed+controller
More competent folks than I can comment on this, but would this fan speed controller (well, the version for the correct voltage) work for this use?
Yeah I want to get one for home emergencies or camping.
Saw one on the amazon deals of the day: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232017-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=gbps_img_s-3_bb19_2e2a1c6b?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=41fd713f-6bfe-4299-a021-d2b94872bb19&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=A60EGY5J6CZ4MMTV2Z97
Venstar Add a Wire works well if you have a 4 wire setup and want a C wire.
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hbbqDbMETV109
Also Nest has a feature called Airwave that is supposed to turn off your compressor and keep running the fan but only after temp has been achieved.
Venstar ACC0410 Add-A-Wire Accessory for All 24 VAC Thermostats (4 to 5 Wires), White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fPY2DbGJFZZCP
It's hard to tell from the picture, but on the control panel side, you have the cable that splits out to have its red wire combined with that yellow wire on the wire nut.
That cable looks like your thermostat cable. I can't tell for certain, but is there a fifth, possible blue wire wrapped around the sheathing of the cable? If that isn't what I am seeing, is there a fifth cable in that bundle?
If so, you should be about to connect that wire to the C terminal on your control board. Back at the thermostat, dig out the hole the wires come through and see if you can't pull a little extra slack of the cable out. Depending on how your house is setup, you might even check where the cable runs in the attic and undo a staple or two if needed to create some slack. Strip the end of the fifth wire and there is your c connection.
If I'm seeing wrong and there isn't a fifth wire, your best bet is likely one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IF3QXMC/
All of the Top Customer Reviews on the Amazon product page are one star, with "DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY" as the central theme. Apparently this gimcrack isn't as "smart" as advertised.
Why don't you just get a temp sensor like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071NG8MZK/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D7N1FY57KHJXBAQT3YZ6&dpPl=1&dpID=61GWZEHUmML
Then you could plug it in near the equipment (assuming you have a surge strip in there) and then run the fans off that with a couple set points.
Awesome. Ever considered adding some UV or IR spectrum? That is only downside I see from the samsung diodes, but is easily remedied if desired.
I have noticed some increased trichrome production when adding UV but uncertain if its from the UV or some other factors.
My current plans are to remove all burples, replace with quantum boards then add something as simple as:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=uvb+light
and
https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536520637&sr=8-3&keywords=light+clamp
To get a bit of UV on the grow.
Edit: "UVB: UVB supplementation is highly desirable in this approach because it can increase THC levels by as much as 30%. SO UVB should be supplemented for the last 5 weeks of flower minimum."
https://californialightworks.com/light-spectrum-and-plant-growth/
In my personal opinion I would try and go more towards tungsten lighting, really cheap, good color, and very reliable. You need to shoot around what you have, so that means if you're going to do anything at night you can't show big spaces. Try some china balls and clip lights. Then get a bunch of light bulbs, dimmers, and diffusion. The diffusion I listed in sort of middle of the road, not too heavy, not too light. You could do great night interior work with just this. Night exterior might be possible, but you have to plan a lot around existing lighting.
​
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lumabase-10-in-Round-Paper-Lanterns-5-Count-78005/204191099?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CDD%7CD59%7C59-6_HOME+D%C3%89COR%7CNA%7CNA%7c71700000032287291%7c58700003837160922%7c92700036675473299%7cpla-514547808605-51080780382&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Yr03I7x3QIVAcZkCh3A8gTWEAQYASABEgIexPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CO3d7N6O8d0CFU3FZAodpXAGQg
​
https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=asc_df_B071WJPWL2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198068910902&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10150620353935443755&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-352850301737&psc=1
​
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Credenza-Halogen-Incandescent-TT-300H-WH/dp/B0000BYEF6/ref=asc_df_B0000BYEF6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167140365824&hvpos=1o9&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8666904966532857364&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031204&hvtargid=pla-274342005344&psc=1
​
https://www.filmandvideolighting.com/cotech-250-half-white-diffusion-gel-filter-sheet.html?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwKT9k4_x3QIVD6rsCh0Slw9QEAQYBSABEgL1L_D_BwE
​
I actually have mine outside now so no need for a light. I'm probably going to look into something different for next fall/winter though.
If you get a couple clamp lights that should work well if your shelves are small. Look for a led or cfl bulb with a 6500 K color temperature and as high of a wattage as your lamp can handle. Something like this would be good because it can handle a very high wattage. I think you need to look for at least a 60w equivalence. The higher the wattage the more plants it will cover since you won't need to have the light as close to the plants. You don't need to look specifically for a growlight bulb. They're often overpriced for what they are and as long as you know what specs you need you can find regular led/cfl bulbs that are essentially the same thing but without the price markup.
My set up is a 200-something watt LED flood light (meant for security purposes) put into one of those cheap work clamp ballasts. Seriously $20-30 max and it makes a whole lot more light and might actually save space compared to that. Here's some links so you get a better idea.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SYLVANIA-ULTRA-250-W-Equivalent-Dimmable-Daylight-Par38-LED-Flood-Light-Bulb/1000231265
https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525419221&sr=8-4&keywords=work+clamp+light
EDIT: I use this same setup and my Butch-T's went from saplings to no joke at least 10 leaves (4 full sized ones) and grew about 4 inches within 2 weeks. Keep the light close to the plants. You can since it's LED with less of an impact on heat.
If you are a diyer you could use a nodemcu(ESP8266) https://smile.amazon.com/KeeYees-Internet-Development-Wireless-Compatible/dp/B07HF44GBT/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nodemcu&qid=1575090035&s=electronics&sr=1-4
+ quad relay board(https://smile.amazon.com/Huayao-Channel-Optocoupler-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B07DN8DTRW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=3+channel+relay&qid=1575090005&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNzVXTkU1VFE4MkZKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjMzMDI3MVczRDJDUzk2NzQ2UiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDEwODgzMkgySFREVTBEU0VRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
+ project box and some wires
Both the relays and the nodemcu power off 5v so you could just use a cell phone charging brick to power them. You could have it controlled via a lightweight webpage or you could just have the phone use REST API to send messages to trigger the open/closed/stop.
​
​
EDIT: Or more simply, 3x https://smile.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG + ewelink app. Personally I am more of a fan of the DIY opinion as I like local control without phone home worries
Lots of people put Reflectix in their windows in warm areas. It will unfortunately block out all the sunlight but it will help greatly in making the interior temperature tolerable.
This is the answer to your prayers, my friend. It's called Reflectix. It is a foil insulation wrap 5/8 inches thick. Two outer layers of aluminum foil reflect 97-Percent of radiant heat. Each layer of foil is bonded to two inner layers of insulating bubbles that resist conductive heat flow. I have applied this to every window and surface on the west side of the house facing the hot Texas sun which reaches 110 degrees these days.
Before I put these on, I could only gain a 15 degree differential from the outside to inside on the rooms that faced west, whereas now I stay a cool 25 to 30 degrees cooler. You can use chrome duct tape or velcro tape to secure it in minutes. It is a wonder solution, I highly recommend it.
I would try to shade the area, insulate the bucket and then add an Ice Probe. Check out the amazon links. I use the Ice Probe and double insulated my 5-gal bucket.
https://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-Thermoelectric-Aquarium-Chiller/dp/B001JSVLBO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iceprobe&qid=1570125812&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-ubble-Pack-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reflectix&qid=1570126123&s=gateway&sr=8-1 (cheaper at Home Depot)
I used this for mine, 2x large totes stacked like your cans.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the bottom stick up about an inch past the lip so it covers the seam when the bins are closed. Its still low enough that i can let it close with out it pinching the reflective wrap. You get a lot of material for only $25, ive done 2x buckets and still have extra left over. Also if you use a roll like mine cut it against the grain, it will push out and basically hold it self together, where i needed it i used duct tape folded sticky side out or just double sided tape.
Hope this helps, otherwise great build! i want to do a large can build like this for a mama, but if i get the space im going to tent it.
Edit: By against the grain i mean perpendicular to how its rolled, lol
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to line the inside of my 32gallon setup. It's kind of pricey but IMO worth it. I originally tried Mylar blankets and they are a nightmare to work with. This stuff is thick and easy to work with and claims 95%+ reflectivity.
This stuff works really well for this purpose. I also use it to get 7.5 gallons to a rolling boil on my stovetop. Probably not useful for you as you're planning on using it in the next few days, but maybe will help someone else
Depends on your light. If you can't put your hand on it for 3 seconds or so, it's too hot to be real close to a mylar blanket. This is better. Reflectix ST16025 Staple Tab Insulation 16 Inch x 25 ft Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RYFjzbYX2ARWY
You may want to look it into some bubble wrap insulation for your res as well. It works miracles for keeping water temps down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1491534817806
THANK YOU. I covered the floor in this; would this be enough: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481129537&sr=8-2&keywords=insulation
Also, this looks like a good forced exchange heater?
http://www.themaddogs.com/Equipment/Cabin/Espar/Espar_Eberspacher_Airtronic_D4%20diesel_air_%20heater.htm
Weather stripping for sure and then seal the inside with a piece of r10 insulation blanket if you want to be more precise with it
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQSYRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486162379&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=insulation+blanket&dpPl=1&dpID=41vFYWadUML&ref=plSrch
I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...
Loaded with Federal Tactical Law Enforcement 8-pellet 00 buckshot. I'm very happy with it.
Don't forget to practice frequently with whatever you end up choosing.
Copied from the album:
>Fantastic little light package. The reason I particularly like this kit is because the the flashlight houses its own charging circuit, so you just plug Micro USB in and you can charge it on the fly (off a phone charger), no need for something like a NiteCore charger.
>The overall size of this thing is tiny for how much light it puts out. It has three settings, with memory for the last one used when turned on, from 'blinding' to 'good enough' to 'decidedly dim, but bright enough to not trip over things'. I set it to the middle one. While it has a strobe mode, it's quite difficult to activate accidentally --requiring repeated rapid presses -- which is great for Nerf. I did have to pad the mount with a rubber band, as the flashlight is a smidge under the 1" diameter for the mount. That's fine, though, as it protects the finish of the flashlight from metal-on-metal contact. A polymer mount would be significantly lighter, and I might look to see if one is out there.
>The parts of this kit are as follows.:
>MagPul 5-slot MOE rail
>Off-set 1" Flashlight Picatinny Mount
>JetBeam EC-R16
I believe both the magpul AFG and VFG can mount to that handguard WITHOUT using rails... one of the perks. I know the VFG can for sure. I mount a flashlight on my handguard (I have the same one) and I use the tiny rail section and mount it on the side. Here is the rail I got: http://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MOE-Rail-Section-Black/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421023661&sr=8-1&keywords=moe+rail
Kinda like this, assuming the hole spacing is correct...
Magpul MAG406-BLK MOE Polymer Rail Section, 5-Slot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y0h0Db146TSVR
Yep, toss one of these on the side for the light, one in the bottom for the grip/bipod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yjtybJNE8QMW
Would this http://amzn.com/B003F6EMQO work?
Where can I find a rail with those dimensions?
I have this 4" (10cm) set and this 6" (15cm) set both going 24/7. From outside the rooms it sounds like air conditioning units going all the time. Not really audible from anywhere but the hallway in front of the doors.
My carbon scrubbers are placed like this. I feel like it helps pull hot air up and away from the plants.
My flower tent is 1m x 1m x 2m with a 600w hps which works out to 55w/ft^2 . My house is around 15-21c and I have to run an air conditioner in that room for most of the day to keep tent temps below 26c.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GJ7TFE
For the price, this doesn't seem too bad.
Ipower is not really considered a spend more get more brand around here.
That said I have a cheap Ventec which came with a speed controller and it works fine. Moves some air, I keep it turned down most of the way. It is certainly not smell free, but it keeps it at a reasonable level for my stand alone house. Would not recommend it for an apartment. Not sure if they sell the same bundle in Canada.
80cfm is no where near enough to work as an exhaust only AND carbon scrubber in that way. just get a proper 4" fan and filter for that size, cheapies on amazon for ~$130 range with speed controller.
4" 190cfm inline duct fan and carbon filter combo $97
fan speed controller $21
If you can insulate it well, I bet 50*f outside could be dealt with. I'd be concerned about 'lights out' temps though.
The cheap LEDs in those kits can’t grow plants. I’ve tried. I didn’t get growth until I set up a contractor light on my 5 gallon with a 23 watt cfl 6500K. Now I have 8 on 3 tanks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6SR1JM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q90xDb7JCYWQH
And used something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ONXWC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O-0xDbV4F06PC
This bulb
This housing
Just two clamp lamps on top with some 12W 6000k LEDs. The clamp lamps aren't actually clamped on, just the reflectors sitting on top of the glass lid.
Clamps
Bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ONXWC2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You should invest in lamps like those. Use a 40-60 watt bulb (halogen, not LED) and keep the cord out of reach (they can and will chew through it, often without any side effects besides the occasional weird little scorch mark on the beak).
Your birds can handle almost any temperature you feel comfortable in (unless we're talking certain finch species). Just be sure there are no breezes on them. If you feel like they are cold, use a lamp like above set to one side of their cage so they can get out from under it if they get too warm.
If for some reason (super cold winters, bad heating in home, etc) your home gets below 55 Fahrenheit, those lamps will provide the warmth they need.
The lamps are also extremely useful for keeping a recently bathed bird warm while they dry, or an ill bird warm. A sick bird needs warmth so it can focus on using its energy to heal itself instead of struggling to keep warm.
Of course, there is nothing wrong with keeping them warmer than the rest of your house! Just be careful with space heaters, and make sure they are made for indoor use and cannot set anything on fire.
[Edit: accidently posted before finished!]
Link didn't work for me, but yes, the MyQ uses a hub. I think I have this one. It needs power and an ethernet connection, and needs to be close enough to the garage doors. The door opener might come with it?
*I found the item you linked, it specifically states hub not included.
I assume you're talking about this
I had this device and it did everything I needed. That $99 model wasn't out yet when I purchased mine.
edit. I believe my $50 device only worked with Chamberlain garage door openers that had built in MyQ technology that made it compatible. I think the $99 device makes virtually any garage door opener compatible.
I wanted them to update this one to home kit, benefits are it directly connects to your router and requires no additional tilt sensor.
I have been using it and works great with home-bridge and Home Assistant.
Is this different than the one at Amazon that is only $45?
Yes, it's illegal to distill alcohol for personal consumption; owning a still is not illegal. The reason I bring the Kingston court case up is because it is treated in much the same way as possession of cannabis in most areas - the courts at large don't care unless you're selling, hence it being an outdated law.
As for home grows being restricted in Colorado - of course they are, that's how the law was written; stating that it's restricted because it's not safe but that renters require permission whereas homeowners do not is arguing false cause. It's basically the same argument for having pets in a rental - some areas allow it by law, some do not (at least in the US); in addition it also give added 'protection' for landlords who are victimized by illegal grow ops. But that's the US and this is Canada.
The reason for flagging illegal grow ops is obvious; if you don't have to worry about living in a place, chances are you don't worry about spreading dirt, water and everything else around, hacking up the wiring and causing a mess. A future buyer has a right to know if there may be water damage or potential future mold issues due to this.
What you're not seeing -again- is the thousands of Canadians who already grow their own and you'd never be the wiser to it. You talk about Colorado having all the "best" equipment for growing, which is completely false. Spend 5 minutes searching the yellowpages of your city and I guarantee you that you will find a Hydroponics center if your city is larger than 50 000 people.
Even still, the Internet brings the very best equipment right to your doorstep and totally private unless a warrant is issued for your financials.
less than 5 minutes on Amazon
http://www.amazon.ca/Aviditi-PTU-70-Reflective-Hydroponic-35-Inch/dp/B008B8BQRE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406428720&sr=8-2&keywords=grow+tent
http://www.amazon.ca/Hydrofarm-FLCDG125D-125-Watt-Compact-Fluorescent/dp/B001UV6P9I/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=01MWGNJ2TFW85VJ0Z10A
http://www.amazon.ca/iPower-GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C-6-Inch-25-Feet-Ducting/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TK5SZXH60ZRC8HKJ9FH
http://www.amazon.ca/General-GH4120-Hydroponics-WaterFarm-Complete/dp/B001ID8CMG/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1406428847&sr=1-1&keywords=hydroponics
http://www.amazon.ca/FloraNova-7-4-10-One-part-Nutrient-quart/dp/B00KERVR9C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1406428887&sr=8-5&keywords=hydroponic+nutrients
Combine all of the above with a GFCI outlet and a surge protected power bar and you're all set up to grow with an extremely low risk of water damage or fire. Add a basic small dehumidifier and zero mold. The argument against it due to risk of property damage is silly. You could make the same argument against house plants or home aquariums, try taking away either of those.
Finally, why should we let people grow their own?
Because, if we don't we create yet another class of criminal; Allowing 4-6 plants per adult for personal use is the best way to avoid further criminalizing people - people will do it either way, the surest way to increase risk is to force it underground. If you stomp on people's ability to do for themselves instead of regulating it, bad things happen.
Welcome to growing your own weed. It's the best hobby ever. Thanks for doing some research before asking questions. Let's look at your questions:
> Will this setup let out any smell from the tent?
You will have very minimal, but not absolutely undetectable smell outside the tent. I would expect no smell outside of your 6x12 room. When you open your tent during flower, there will be a strong pleasant fresh weed odor.
> If I had to go out of town for any reason, would the room still function fine with the door and window both closed for 2-3 days? (Assume I would need a dehumidifier and AC unit)
You should be A-OK for 3-4 days unattended with no special arrangements aside from watering before you leave. Yes, you should expect to need a dehumidifier and A/C unit. A window A/C is usually preferable to central air, because it keeps the air in the 6x12 room isolated from the air in the rest of the house.
> Would the setup be too noisy to have in the same room as my computer and spend multiple hours per day sitting next to?
With the fan/blower you linked, yes, it would be pretty noisy. I would suggest you upgrade to this 6" blower/filter and get the speed controller. It makes for smooth, quiet operation on reduced speed.
> Would my microphone (Blue Yeti if relevant) pick up on it?
If you get an oversized blower and run it on reduced speed, it should be quiet enough for you.
> Are the any health risks to myself or my pets by being in the same room as the exhaust for multiple hours per day?
None that we know of.
> The entire setup would likely share a wall outlet with my computer via a 5 outlet adapter, will there be any issues here? (There is another outlet in the room but would either stretch cords across the room or require stringing the cables up)
You need to watch your power budget for sure. You probably have one 15 or 20 amp circuit to that room, which limits you to 1800 or 2400 watts. Your grow tent will eat up 600 watts. A 5000 BTU window A/C uses another 600 watts. That leaves you with 600-1200 watts to run your computer. If you throw a dehumidifier in there, and everything starts running at once, you could start tripping breakers. I would suggest you find out what size circuit is feeding your room. It's going to be close.
> Would this tent height severely limit the number of different strains I could grow?
A taller tent is always better. Especially with the CMH light fixture, which likes a little extra room. If you can get a taller tent, then get it. That said, if your plant training is on point, you can make it work with any strain.
> I could clear off a roughly 2' x 2' area off my desk for trimming and such, will this suffice or will it be too messy?
Yes, you can trim at your desk 2x2 desk. It's a smelly process and the smell can linger for a couple days. If you do it with a fan in the window you can keep odor to a minimum.
> Is drying and curing inside of the tent a viable option to control smell? (Obviously not while I'm growing other plants)
Yes. Most indoor tent growers dry in the tent.
> I'm sure there's some things I'm forgetting right now, but based on my questions and concerns, is it worth getting into growing right now or should I look at getting a bigger space? Thank you for reading this far and for any advice you're able to give!
Growing is not for everyone, but if you have the disposition for it, it's a wonderful, wonderful hobby. If you buy weed regularly it will save you a ton of money. I think you should go for it.
If you look at the last 2 images here, you can see my filter and setup here http://imgur.com/a/TUFMf
This is the exact fan/filter that I got http://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C-6-Inch-25-Feet-Ducting/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450463821&sr=8-5&keywords=carbon+filter+6%22
Also added a fan controller so it wasnt running at 100% all the time http://www.amazon.com/Hydrobuilder-HBVFSC-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I/ref=pd_sim_86_80?ie=UTF8&dpID=41idj0MShKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0FBPXDHCDMHF1K8SQ2AR
I have something like this
iPower 6 Inch 442 CFM Inline Fan, with 6 Inch Carbon Filter and 25 feet duct combo, 2 clamps included, grow tent ventilation system https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86EGzbRJKFNEW
I could always take the filter off and mount the pipe on the ceiling and run it out the basement window?
I bought this set up here iPower GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C
I also have one small intake fan in the port on the bottom and I am exhausting out the port on top of the tent out my grow room window.
Do you notice how the tube florescent on the right hand side of this image Imgur looks like it comes out of the tent I meant to do that, reason being is when I have the exhaust running even at half speed the negative pressure sucks in the slack in the tent walls decreasing my grow area. With the light jammed in there the negative pressure cant suck the walls in.
It was either this or spend more money on a bigger intake fan.
 
This set up utilizing the negative pressure makes it real easy to regulate your RH and Ambient temps.
I have no problem keeping my RH at a steady 40% and my AT @ 72-78 Fahrenheit, the only bitch was hanging the damn thing!
you're the one that thought of the name Multipass? lol I absolutely love it! =) and yeah man buy this, it's quite literally 100x better than that shitty ass booster fan. Now if you want a super quiet fan I've heard good things about this, I actually really want to try one of them. make sure to get the speed controller
Vortex 347 CFM S Line S-600 Fan, 6" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EIRU2YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J0tLBbE8TYACF
This fan is great
Depending on the outdoor temperature where you live, you may want to reverse that airflow direction, so you're venting outside. You will need the intake airflow to be temp controlled, around 70-ish F. If you get extreme cold or heat where you live, drawing your intake from outside will give you trouble. However, with your budget, you can definitely afford a name brand carbon filter (Phresh is a good one), so you won't have to worry about smell.
There are a few ways to limit the fan noise. Some combination of: (1) a larger 6" fan, turned down with a fan speed controller, (2) a "silenced" fan, (3) insulated ducting, and/or (4) building a box around the fan to muffle the noise.
Also, you don't have to limit yourself to a dwarf autoflower with a 30x23" space. You can grow a pretty good size photoperiod plant in there, or maybe two smaller ones.
This is a pretty good light setup for that space, if you aren't scared of doing a little minor assembly (it's really easy). It can be done a little cheaper, but that's a pretty good, complete package (discount code: growmau5). Get the driver ending in 2100B and the poke-in 3500K SE chips, and add THIS dimmer. Assembly instructions are linked at the bottom of that page.
I use this [fan] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EIRU2YU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this [filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NYF8S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) 48"x48"x80" tent. The fan is quiet.
I haven't heard of any making them louder than full, but most don't really make it much quieter than full. This could be something to do with the type of fan used or the controllers.
Here is an example of a way to make a carbon filter. This one is meant to be connected to an inline duct fan, which is probably the type I would recommend for your sized space.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-Inductor-6-in-In-Line-Duct-Fan-DB206/100067594
http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-DF4-Duct-Fan-100/dp/B00F6BL11U/ref=lp_13399911_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1412050146&sr=1-1
You can find them at any big hardware store to check it out in person before buying too if you don't want to order online
Okay I just looked up the fan you were talking about in your original post and if this is the one, then how were you planning on attaching a carbon filter to it? It looks really flat like a jumbo computer fan and doesn't seem like it would be easy to both mount to your box and attach a filter to. Also, that type of fan generally doesn't have very good suction/air pressure. They can have a decent CFM rating and are useful for circulating air within the box or as exhaust fans without a filter, but once you introduce something that impedes the flow, they don't have enough force to push air through well. I originally thought you were talking about this type of fan
Either way, if you do end up getting a speed controller on any kind of fan, it is important when using it to start the fan up at 100% speed, then lower the speed down to your desired setting, not start it at 0 and turn it up or start it at the final speed.
You could get this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6BL11U/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484578858&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=inline+duct+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41FrUZOvkKL&ref=plSrch and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EPE3XHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484578916&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+inch+duct&dpPl=1&dpID=5139MLHSyHL&ref=plSrch and use your imagination
100 CFM https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6BL11U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is my tent https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PXK7IMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haven’t tried it, but saw this
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMXjDbNQSV8ZH
I took my time gathering a the parts etc. Painting was a pain and not really my forte. The decals were under a previous paint job so I used this
Car Decal Removal Tool - Whizzy... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
to strip the bike.
Worked awesome but made one hell of a mess. So I sanded and painted over a few weekends (at my GF's house) since I don't have the space for that in my suite. Took a few weeks to build everything back on the bike and add the electrical system (wire management OMG)
Pretty much everything was done in a 5'x8' storage space within my suite that I converted into a "garage" to maintain my bikes. Somehow I make it work, lol.
Whizzy Wheel Car Decal and Sticker Remover with Drill Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJF0O2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9JqmDbXMBJMVK
I've had really good luck with these. You can get much more aggressive without damaging the finish.
Color match can be a bitch of a job (and pricey to get it done right unless OP can get a deal on a vinyl wrap), if they threw chrome centre caps on and blacked out the lighting it could work well with the chrome since he has the gloss black wheels.
The chrome/white lighting just never looked right on anything but the white and silver trucks imho.
Debadge +1! Get some fishing line with a blow dryer to remove them, then power polish. I used this thingy to get any glue residue off: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FJF0O2K/
Fuck Ecobee. Get two of these and you're done:
https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1484946346&sr=8-20&keywords=wifi+thermostat
It's not just long-term support I'm concerned about. When a product is required to "phone home" to vendor-controlled servers to perform its functionality, you've lost all control over your privacy (they now have a continuous stream of data on their servers about your home), not to mention the product's reliability and longevity.
 
I've gotten a response from a vendor that their thermostat does not require Internet access and that there are mobile apps that would allow one to control it over one's home WiFi network. It's not as pretty as the big vendor's products, but it does fit the bill.
I have a similar one: http://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-CT50-7-Day-Programmable/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420922423&sr=8-1&keywords=radio+thermostat
It's awesome, note you need a power wire.
I just do the $100 wifi thermostat.
It has the phone apps, webapps, etc that the Nest has at half the cost. You can manage it from your browser too. It runs without Wifi like you want. It's also very simple to use and schedule.
A decent thermostat is ~$25, this one is $100. I think you'll be fine spending $75 more.
Don't know about most popular, but I've had a couple of CT50s in my house for the last few years and could not be happier. Cheap, great web interface, and gets the job done. I paid $150 total for the two of 'em. Not as pretty as the Nest, but not $250 (x2) either!
I’d try Home Depot first. (Woodworking router, not internet router.)
Yescom Variable Fan/Router Speed Controller 3 Settings Hydroponics Inline Fan Exhaust Air 500W to 1800W Adjuster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3LD1WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Og8gDbF4QC0V5
https://www.amazon.com/Variable-Controller-Hydroponics-Exhaust-Adjuster/dp/B00U3LD1WA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493069034&sr=8-1&keywords=speed+fan+controller
You just hook up a speed controller to both fans.
That way you can raise/lower each of them as needed.
My fans are always on. 24/7. Keep that air fresh. Keep it moving. It's not just about the heat. I want fresh air passing by the plants at all times, and stale air moved out.
The benefit of a controller is you can create the ideal situation for your needs. I like negative pressure to avoid odor leaking. Plus if you have a scrubber this is what you NEED. You want all of your air to pass through the carbon scrubber, so your exhaust should be turned up higher than your intake, creating negative pressure. Therefore the only air escaping from your tent is via your exhaust. IE, no smell leaks.
If you must turn them off at times, I would turn off both at the same time. That way the fluctuation is more minimal. I can't think of many reasons to turn them off though. I would keep on permanently.
You need a rheostat like this one instead. It could reduce the life of wand, though.
If I were you, I'd invest in a Doxy or something similar that has more speeds. I reviewed a Lovehoney Wand last week that would probably work well. It has no preset speeds at all. It uses a dial instead and starts on a much lower speed than a Magic Wand. It's significantly less expensive than a Doxy, too. It's not quite as powerful as the Doxy or Magic Wand but that's not going to be a problem in your situation anyway.
Some folks use their Magic Wand through their clothes to dampen it.
Finally, consider a silicone cover that will dampen the vibrations a bit. I keep this one on one of my wands. There's also this smooth style and a ribbed one.
as i understand it a universal motor with brushes is AC/DC compatible
sorry its not a pwm its scr or triac or some crap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3LD1WA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Bh.JDbH0J22BK
Yep, I also have the band heater and I love it. Takes a while to get up to temperature, but once it's there it's awesome.
And for OP asking about a controller - Brewhaus always seemed to be out of stock. I started looking around and found basically the same thing on Amazon for half price. Get one like this.
any recommendation on a decent speed controller? II have this and get a humming noise when I turn my vortex down, so it still end up being pretty loud.
I got one of these to help with air flow but also got one of these which allows me to control the humidity really well.
I got one of these lights, a little less money than the one you had in your cart. Although I will be buying one more for my next grow.
I have this Honeywell thermostat. It's a bit more expensive than the cheap Z-Wave ones, but it has a proper cloud service and I've been happy with it. I bought it when I had central AC and heating, but my house now only has hot water baseboard heat and no central AC. It works great for the heat.
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH6580WF-Wi-Fi-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B00Y6M2OUC
That actually has too few buttons dedicated function buttons would be prefered this is pretty much exactly what I wan't but it doesn't have the circulating fan option.
Cheapest isn't usually a good option in the long run. In this case it more than likely will be hard to set up/connect, keep a connection, not have options that you'd probably want, good chance it won't operate as flawlessly as one you'd spend a bit more for and tech support may be non-existent. Cheap parts, cheaply put together...more trouble than it's worth. Honeywell is old as dirt. They're reliable. Tech support is 50/50. They make a dependable thermostat. I could have bought any wifi thermostat I wanted and chose the Honeywell TH9320WF because it did everything I wanted (and I could make the screen any color ;) ). It was $156 at the time on Amazon. Honeywell makes less spendy ones tho. It will have the Honeywell dependability but just the basics. $82/Amazon.
4 star rating
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Programmable-Thermostat-RTH6580WF-Requires/dp/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522456176&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+wifi+thermostats+for+home
Oh god this is giving me PTSD from the house I bought last year.
It had one of those Honeywell programmable thermostats and I was shivering at 2am poking at it with a flashlight trying to figure it out. Programming it was a pain in the ass. Changing the temp? I was never sure if I was reprogramming it or temp changing the setting. I ripped it out day 2 and put in a Nest. That's super clear.
In the basement I put in a round mechanical thermostat to keep the pipes from freezing in winter and that's it. No frills. Just a spring.
If I were you, unless you want a smart one, I'd get one of the old round ones and call it a day. If you want a smart one, get the cheap Nest.
Thanks! Do you know of this 5-1-1 would work or would this 7 day be the least expensive model?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003VIWQL4/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00Y6M2OUC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y6M2OUC/ref=psdcmw_2054378011_t3_B00FLZEQH2
I purchased this Honeywell wifi thermostat recently. I couldn't justify the price of the Nest. The Honeywell was less than $90, and it does the job.
Deep breaths - one day at a time, just divide little things to do and tackle them one at a time. Maybe in the meantime you could get your son some LED battery-powered lights like these, this, this, or this. It's not the same as running some electrical in, but it will do if he wants a little bit of time to himself reading before bed.
Good screwdrivers are nice, but you really need 6-8 sizes, and that's over $20.
A wonder bar is probably one of my favorites:
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-55-515-12-3-4-inch-Wonderbar/dp/B00002X1XT
Although not technically a tool, a nice LED work light is amazing. With a bit of patience, you can find one with 1000+ lumens near the $20 mark. This one is more, but I needed an example before my bathroom break was over
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015E6M23C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nIMOwbPB7M5NY
You can get cheap headlamps just about anywhere. Or depending on what you do around your house, it's worth investing in a work light with a tripod/stand.
I was given a light for my birthday earlier this year by someone who uses them for work. It's available through Amazon as the 15W 24LED Spotlights Work Lights Outdoor Camping Lights, Built-in Rechargeable Lithium Batteries With USB Ports to charge Mobile Devices. I haven't used mine a lot, and it's got some funky blinking red/blue lights that I have no need for at all, but it works pretty well for under the hood, or other darkish places. This does have the battery, and it's not super bright, but for the cost, you can pick up several of them, and have really good coverage of an area without any problems.
Are these the buddy heaters you’re talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mr%2Bbuddy%2Bheater&qid=1569008572&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
>Size isn't too much of a factor cause I'm not sleeping in it, but being able to fit a few people would be nice.
So which is it? A two person tent is enough for two people facing each other, but more than that can be a problem. I respect the fire hazards of a heater too much to use it in a 2 person tent. Not to mention the short height. At a minimum, I'd want a 3 person tent if I were the only person in it with the heater, a 4 person tent for 2-3 people in the tent with the heater. The problem is a large 4 person tent takes a lot of time to heat up. I'd say my Mr Heater takes about 10 minutes before I start feeling the heat, and about 45 minutes before the tent finishes heating, and that only takes it from about 35°F to 50°F where it stops getting hotter because the tent is just too large for the heater and one warm body. If you want to be able to stand almost anywhere in the tent, you'll probably have to get a 6 person tent. To heat that at all, you need a larger heater than a Mr Buddy, and heating the area quickly is going to require a heater that puts out several times as many BTU's. This is the smallest I'd even consider for a tent that large for heating that area before you're done with your smoke. Either heater is already over half your ideal budget, and you still need to buy fuel, or a tank plus fuel for the second heater.
Maybe you should get multiple options. Maybe a popup "bathroom" tent for when you're solo, and a patio heater if you have a group.
Another problem is the type of smoking you're doing. I would not smoke cigarettes in a tent with a floor. Super dangerous. Vaping might be okay. Some would say using a heater or vaping in a tent with synthetic fabric is super dangerous, and I can't disagree. At least if I'm by myself, I can manage the risk. Adding others into the mix serious cranks up the danger.
If you do not have a big enough tent for this, they do make a Mr Buddy that has a tipover and an oxygen sensor. Some people still won't trust this in a tent, but it would be much safer than the lantern if you need heat. If not super cold, maybe think about heated blankets (they make battery powered ones), or those hot hand packets. If it is cold enough, Propane heaters can also be a problem due to the moisture they add to the air.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DD6C4MY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?slotNum=7&keywords=tent+heaters+for+camping&ie=UTF8&sr=8-6&imprToken=8fm8QwFppnQmWplHn3mD7w&linkCode=ll1&tag=gudgear0c-20&linkId=1a5e7bdcfbebed209b509c3d1c9b64c3
I have had a very similar experience to you and the problem was solved by installing a C-wire between the furnace and Nest. If you do not have a spare fifth wire going between your thermostat and your furnace, you can:
To me it sounds like you need this: https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC
Also use this as a guide: https://youtu.be/R3pea5qtygo
Edit: Reason I say so is you should always use a common wire with Nest. You have to check your furnace terminal to see if it has a the right setup.
Pulling a new cable using the old cable is problematic in most homes if you don't have access to the cable at every point. Either it will be stapled, or it will be passing around too many tight bends with high friction.
There are some alternatives:
If you can, stop and go open the panel on your hvac system (Attic/garage/Basement/crawlspace)
There you will find where those wires connect. take a picture, note it down.
There is a good chance that you could simply connect the C wire. There
Or use a c-wire bypass
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC
or
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-THP9045A1023-Wiresaver-Wiring-Thermostat/dp/B0060ASWPE/
As a last resort if the wire/cable is stuck and can't be replaced then you can go the add-a-wire route. You might need to drill a 1/2 hole below the current hole to stuff the diode and wire nut into.
https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3pea5qtygo
This works amazingly well:
https://www.amazon.com/Garadget-Smart-Garage-Door-Controller/dp/B01KUZ2JPS
Garage door controller - works standalone and with most home automation controllers.
so you use a light switch with a little knob for fan speed?
get something smarter
​
turns itself on/off at a certain time
​
they're $25 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Nashone-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-thermostat/dp/B071NG8MZK/
Nashone Wireless Temperature Controller,Electric Thermostat with Remote Control Built in Temp Sensor 3 Prong Plug LCD Display Heating Cooling Mode
​
BTW - swamp coolers are little more than fans and a pump for the water.
they don't use juice like AC.
​
hang a wet sheet or towel and point a desk fan at it, you'll get some cooling.
Here's a wireless thermostat that you could use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oao0BbYD8ZPD7
Or remote wireless hemostat.. Does heating or cooling. I'm using one to control a window AC. Or an Inkbird type with the probe inside the garage. There are a bunch of models and probably clones.
Okay thank you. Ill look into the cobalt easy therm. Also is this what youre referring to for a temperature controller? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NG8MZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1JgbBbW9TV7R8
This is what I've used, with a 6500K CFL bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/8-5-Inch-Reflector-150-Watt-Dawson-Bros/dp/B071WJPWL2/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519164052&sr=1-4&keywords=clip+on+light
I like to use clamp lights from the hardware store. Then again you need something to clamp it to. Just use "daylight" fluorescent bulb unless you need it to flower or fruit indoors.
A cheap mechanical timer switch is super nice to have too.
Most old openers have the option to wire a momentary push button on a wall, to open the door. You can parallel in a dry contact from a Wi-Fi IOT sensor like this: https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Inching-Self-locking-Wireless-Control/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519067560&sr=8-4&keywords=Inching+smart+switch
Just add any tiny 5 VDC power brick for power and wire a dry contact across the push button contacts. Downside is this isn’t HomeKit.
Alternatively you could use a HomeKit plug like iDevices, iHome or Eve Energy. But you’d have to wire a 120 VAC relay to the plug and wire a dry relay contact across the momentary switch. Downside is this isn’t a momentary output (plug is On or Off), So in operation you’d have to give it an On and then an Off without any feedback on what happened. This is OK but not ideal. I’d add contacts or even a camera for open/close state confirmation.
I’m adding the first option to my home as a backup way to get into my garage. This winter I got locked out as front door latch froze up and I was on foot ( no opener). But it was a comedy of errors.
Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)
​
If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (https://imgur.com/a/Y6XohGa).
​
One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?
My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.
What do you want to control it with? If it is just Wifi, then use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MHCOZY-Wireless-Switch-applied-control/dp/B0752P57ZG
You would need to get another remote and program it to the gate. With a little bit of solder, you can attach wires to the button on the board. This guy's review of that product shows what you would need to do: https://www.amazon.com/vdp/2d41de2fcc14425f9ef192da63d2e047?ref=dp_vse_rvc0
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hyk1BbSPGZBWT
The whole web interface got scrapped because developer quit on me, it works but i wasnt happy the way it looked or the way it worked just in case heres the link:
Dashboard | GPIO Server
EDIT: They are private, when i get home i will make them public
​
I also uploaded the code im currently using for Homebridge (Siri Video Intercom), Home Assistant (tablet mounted interface), Telegram (voice recording of visitor) for another reddit user here it is:
Smart Telegram Intercom
My first time actually sharing my code so just send me a DM if you need any explaining or help setting up
I have one of these that can handle "inching" and check it with my Wyze camera. Semi redneck engineered, but I can check if we forgot the door or the kids left it open. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_U3oQDb8CAV7YV
Ok cool, so there really isn't anything out there that I was missing. Something like this should work, too, right?
MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752P57ZG/
I would have to use the eWeLink app on my phone and IFTTT to make things talk to one another. I wish there was a Smart Life (Tuya) dry contact sensor or switch to use. I already have a bunch of their smart plugs and would have rather used the same Smart Life app that I am used to.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has worked amazing with my garage door and google/alexa and its only 13 dollars
Do you know how to tell which devices are compatible with this firmware? I have one of these, I'd like to get native compatibility with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752P57ZG
​
I have this combo in mind.
this one is great. allows for schedules and quick changes for weather shifts. You can also deal with it from your phone so if it is too
hot or cold you can change it on your way home. https://www.amazon.com/Radio-Thermostat-Programmable-Enabled-Controls/dp/B00KQS35XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525636538&sr=8-1&keywords=radio+thermostat+ct50