(Part 2) Best power converters according to redditors
We found 1,710 Reddit comments discussing the best power converters. We ranked the 609 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
With the rise of 3d printers it has gotten much easier to find large power supplies. This one should work:
https://smile.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_15?crid=23IGWZFRJ74SN&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1574186010&sprefix=12v+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-15
I’ll try to break down a parts list since OP didn’t explicitly say one and I am looking into this project myself:
I've used these with success, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qxBpzb6P6QZ4N
I'm thinking of building this with a 3D printed enclosure and a cheaper battery (so it doesn't cost a million dollars) and selling something similar. Any thoughts?
Build Tips:
The battery is expensive but I had one sitting around from an E-Bike that I built a couple years ago. Feel free to use any battery that can handle 200W of power draw and has a voltage of less than 60V.
If you plan of doing this make sure to use 14AWG wire for the connector and set the Boost Converter to 63v (3A for fast charger or 1.3 for home charger). As a note, for the GX12-2 connector the pins are numbered (found on the end of the connector) pin 1 should be positive and pin 2 should be negative. As I learned the hard way, solar charge controllers don't seem to work with the Pint so you need a boost converter.
Overall, the build isn't too difficult. Just hook up the battery to the input of the boost converter, set the voltage to 63v, the amperage to 3a (or lower if you want a slower charge). Then, wire the GX12-2 connector as described above. Attach the GX12-2 connector to the output side of the boost converter. Finally, switch on the battery to supply power, press ok and plug the connector into the Pint.
Sorry for the long post and happy floating!
Parts list and links:
Drok DC 8V-60V to 10V-120V 15A Boost Converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mUJ1DbTHCAJHC
uxcell Aviation Connector, GX12-2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC7KP8H/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OWJ1Db2SHZ197
52V 17.5AH E-Bike Lithium Battery with Charger: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJYWW9L/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_aYJ1DbT4W50EC
No, you don't want to add resistance. Adding resistors is the most inefficient way to limit voltage. Resistors turn unused voltage into heat. What you need is a buck converter.
Since you said the lights run on 4.5 VDC (3 AA batteries,) you can set the buck converter to 5V. And if you use the link I provided, you get a package of 5 so if you mess one up it's not a huge problem.
I was a total amateur prior to doing the battery mod on my GBC last month. I learned everything on YouTube and had the help of a Game Boy modding discord. Check out EsotericSean's YouTube channel. Particularly the video where he puts a battery in his green GBC, and the one where he refurbishes the Pokemon GBC. I learned the most from those two. He links the discord in the descriptions.
A lot of people are asking about parts and cost and stuff, so here's the full list. (Sorry that Reddit makes such a mess of the paragraph format.)
Retromodding.com - Screen and enclosure (A lot of this is optional.)
$49.99 - Game Boy Advance IPS LCD
$4.99 - Game Boy Advance IPS LCD Glass Screen Lens
$11.99 - Game Boy Advance Shell (black)
$5.59 - Game Boy Advance Buttons (black)
$2.99 - Game Boy Advance Start-Select Silicone Pad (black)
(Shipping $6.00 + $0.98 insurance)
Total: $82.53
Amazon.com - Rechargeable battery
$9.59 - Battery (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTV3MXQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$6.89 - Micro USB charging board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DRT4PWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I also had to salvage a diode from an old garbage power adapter. If you don't have one you can get them for cents on electronics parts websites or eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F182714565793 If not you can order just one on Amazon for about $6. https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-1N270-Germanium-Optimized/dp/B008UG12M6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1N270+diode&qid=1564894452&s=gateway&sr=8-4 I was told that they're in most electronics or power adapters though, so good chance you can salvage one.
If you were doing this from scratch you'd also need the tools and miscellaneous little things. I bought mostly the cheapest stuff I could find. The soldering iron I used was $3 from Harbor Freight. You can also get the screwdriver set there, and a little Dremel with tons of bits for $10. For this mod I did most of the trimming with a sharp chisel, because I'm a woodworker. The USB hole was cut with that Dremel and an xacto knife. Then you need the solder, and some kapton tape. You can salvage the wires from anything as well. Old landline phone cord works. I ordered a bunch of wire connection things from eBay just to get the wire, but that also let me make the battery disconnect-able, which was extremely handy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-Pairs-Micro-JST-1-25-2-Pin-Male-and-Female-Connector-plug-with-Wires-Cables/361418912735?epid=1083311732&hash=item54263ef3df:g:kOYAAOSwmrlUrPoE
I think that covers just about everything. :)
You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID90E3C/ref=asc_df_B01ID90E3C5284494/
Converts the 5v from the USB battery to the 9v required by the radio.
holy crap!
I troubleshoot HVAC for a living...
I work with electrical power every day! 5v-12v DC and 12v-600v AC, single and three phase.
you do realize that 220-240v single phase is made of two lines of 120v. there are adapters that people can use to adapt that voltage down to 110-120v.
canceling one of the legs and having a leg for common (off-site ground) or on-site ground (earth) will do this.
you can take one wire of 208/230/240v single phase and piece metal stuck into the actual ground (earth) and using a multimeter see a 110/120 bolt signal.
also, I mentioned a step down transformer which would be a safer way to do this.
the Xbox one brick is a AC power converter to 12volts DC. I never said to take that out of the equation.
example: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6
note: stinger leg may show different results.
the original op, do what feels safer for you. I'd recommend getting a power brick for the region eventually.
These little guys are hard to beat for what you're trying to do.
Get something like this step-down voltage converter and plug it between the wall socket and your audio mixer.EDIT: Oops I misread your post. The voltage converter gets hot because it's not very efficient. A converter of a higher quality might mitigate that problem a bit.
My suggestion is that you get a 120 - to - 240 travel transformer (e.g.: voltage converter) to operate this appliance.
Yes, a British 13A plug would plug into a British ring-main circuit protected by a 32A breaker or fuse, but the potable appliance cord would be protected by (in this case) the 3A fuse contained within the BS 1363 plug.
If you could even somehow get the sub 18-gauge-wire (0.75mmSQ) of your 35W appliance's cord securely attached to the terminals of an American NEMA 10-50 50A plug, it still would not be a great idea
Well if I'm reading that label right, it only uses 100W, This should do the trick, only $30
That's an absolutely awful idea. Sixty bucks to accomplish 1/6 of what you can do on Amazon for $7.
This isn't surprising.
> System76 products are compatible with world wide power grids. You may need to purchase a plug adapter for your computer.
This is saying that the charging brick is compatible worldwide, so you don't need to buy an expensive charging brick, but you still need to buy a cheap power cable or adapter.
You should be able to buy a cheap cable like this and plug it into the power brick. You should be able to find it at any computer hardware store. Or a simple adapter will do.
Don't bring a voltage converter. You won't need it. Every laptop and phone charger can run 110-240V. Also, don't bring any device that requires a voltage converter (e.g., kitchen appliances, a blow dryer etc.). Just buy new stuff here.
FYI: A voltage converter is a big, heavy device that plugs into the wall. An adapter is small and just changes the plug. You can buy adapters in Korea for 2,000 won or less.
Your fridge won't run long on that battery via an inverter, mate. That being said, you can buy a dc-dc step-down converter like this to push down the voltage to 12V then use car/solar accessories.
You'll definitely have enough power to have light, mobile recharge, etc.
You could even use a step-up converter and charge your battery using solar panels.
Motor control is tricky at times. PWM or using a buck converter are really the best ways to do it. This is because it varies the voltage going into the motor as opposed to changing the electrical resistance of the circuit like resistors and thermistors do.
Using diodes in parallel would be really bad because diodes will drop .6V-.7V for every diode you put into the parallel branch, but have really small internal resistance. Meaning you'll take your 6V from your battery and drop it down to ~4.5V and have it short circuit through the diodes.
If you wired the diodes in series with the battery and flywheel motors though, you'll get your desired effect.
I would suggest upgrading the chassis fan too 10$ and you have a better quieter fan. Also a note about the power supply, there isn't much room in there, you may need to extend the base up with wood or some sort of printed base. I saw this in a tutorial once, don't remember where.
I heard some people had gotten broken fillament tensioners after a while. You can consider upgrading the extruder drive. I ordered this one on amazon and it fit perfectly on my v2. I never got to try flexible filament but I have a hunch it can do it since the drive gear is very close to inlet guide.
Lastly to make your life easier with Octoprint for Raspberry Pi, I tested it and it was fantastic. No need for using SD cards anymore or leaving your computer on, and you can monitor the print remotely with a webcam. After a while I put my PI in the printer chassis I wanted it to be as clean as possible. This will require a nice side panel with a USB port, and I’d recommend a pi switch to safely turn it off but you can use the print interface for that. You probably will need a 12v to 5v stepdown converter. I used this one since it connects directly with the Pi, and had no problems with it. To run this extra electronics and a LED light strip on mine I got a generic 150w PSU just for peace of mind.
​
Edit: Here is the imgur Gallery with my Fan mods and my Pi mod and LED strip. Also you will need to adjust your extrusion steps if you upgrade the extruder drive, links below.
If you have the space to hide a little hardware, and you're the DIY type (I have no idea what your comfort level is, please don't burn down your house), my personal approach would be to use a 12v power supply or transformer, and wire it to a Zigbee doodad, and then to an RGBW LED strip.
I would start with the Zigbee doodad, and then find a transformer or power supply that suits its input parameters that doesn't look like cheap Chinese crap that's going to fail within a couple months.
Example Zigbee doodads:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDC83CB/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5/
One of those looks like it requires either a barrel jack to be wired up to plug it in, or you could take it apart and wired it directly, bypassing the barrel plug.
This is what I use to power LED strips:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC
But if that's too bulky, you can probably find a small potted (plastic/epoxy all sealed up) transformer that will work.
And make sure that your RGB strip works well with the Zigbee controller. I use RGBW where the W is warm white, which makes for much nicer indoor lighting, in my opinion.
I would worry about hiding anything in the wall where it wouldn't be easily accessible, and transformers do generate a little heat. Where does that grey wire go? If you can't hide the necessary hardware in the cabinet, then you need a lighting fixture that's large enough to contain it along with the LED strip.
Guessing you're Swiss, so I don't know where you'd rather buy it from, but this is a buck converter I see a lot:
http://www.amazon.com/Retailstore-LM2596-Adjustable-Supply-Converter/dp/B009HPB1OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396279643&sr=8-1&keywords=buck+converter
Dirt cheap, works fine.
It's dual voltage (100-240V according to your image). Technically, you could just get a plug adapter and convert the US-style (Type A) two-prong plug into a two-peg EU-style (Type C).
These items are very cheap.
For example:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Adapter-Quality/dp/B0084OPT8C/
To make life easier, I suggest a Schucko-style adapter, as they fit more snugly in the socket and are grounded:
http://www.amazon.com/6PKSCHUKO-Grounded-American-European-Adapter/dp/B0038L54ZO/
Source: I am US person currently living in Europe, and all my electronics are using plug adapters.
Edit: Also, any charger will not work for fast charging. The charging block needs to provide the proper amperage. If you have other charging blocks, check their listed amperage and see if they match the one included with your phone.
I'm not sure of your electronics knowledge, so please don't take offense if I mention that voltage in indicated by a "V" (e.g., 240V), and amperage is indicated by "A" (e.g., 1.2A).
The cars have standard cigarette lighter chargers. I'm bringing a DC --> AC converter for charging batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2621-Smart-Power-Inverter/dp/B00HCOZZDY
I also bought this AC converter.
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Travel-Voltage-Converter-Charging/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=as_sl_pc_ss_til?tag=whatplug09-20&linkCode=w01&linkId=6G2Y5BIJLHSHZVKF&creativeASIN=B00MSTG93S
Yes, you can get a power transformer like this one that will convert 220V to 110V, but they're expensive and bulky. You'd be better off getting new bulbs with the correct voltage rating.
If you continue to use your 110V bulbs at 220V, you run the risk of damaging them or starting a fire.
Australia uses different voltage and plug types, so you'll either need to get something and take it with you, or buy something while you're there.
I Just got back from a family vacation in Australia. I bought this before I went:
BESTEK Portable International Travel Voltage Converter 220V to 110V with Interchangeable Worldwide UK/US/AU/EU Plugs + 4 USB(6A Max) Charging Ports for iPhone, iPad, Samsung, Tablet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_nuF-wb72SHF4C
It worked out perfectly for charging my MacBook via the AC, and then multiple mobile devices via USB.
Just google, they are easy to find.
How's this:
https://www.rei.com/product/775157/rei-co-op-adapter-plug-e106-europe-and-asia
Or this, it has Amazon prime:
https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO
It depends on where you (i.e. your devices) are coming from. I'll assume USA.
Type F is the most common type of socket you'll find here. It's compatible with type C and E plugs as well.
AC voltage is 230 V at 50 Hz. Almost all portable electronic devices these days are universal (i.e. 100-240 V, 50/60 Hz) but check the label on the power adapter for your device just in case.
SKROSS adapters are the most popular around here and are probably the first ones you would encounter at the airport. They are pricey, versatile and high quality. But any cheap adapter from Amazon will work. Things to consider:
Something like this should be fine for any device supporting the local voltage (looks small, safe and durable).
In contrast the cheap-o ones look like this but they are not grounded and often have trouble staying in the wall if you tend to yank the cord of your charger.
If you REALLY need to convert voltage as well, there are step-down converters on Amazon for like $30-50 but they are heavy and a pain to drag along.
Uh,
Not to pick on ya, but I think I made this sucker for $10 and it handles up to 30 volts.
https://imgur.com/3maPWOx
​
this thing should be able to do it all.
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Buck-Boost-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B0789QVKKF/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=boost+converter&qid=1557292269&s=electronics&sr=1-13
​
Ohh yea, for anyone looking at going over 30v. 30v is pretty much the point where mistakes can start to hurt a lot.
​
I've got this thing sitting in a box to test out up to 120v when I can get some time to play with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
oh... i assumed that the company would have an international adapter.. woops..
quick search on google, there is FC user -francois- that was using underdog with type F plug.. admittedly he was having issues with power when i found his post, but FC user underdog, recommended 1a+ and 12v.. of course then with a plug that is acceptable for your country.
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/underdog-log-vapes.4214/page-374#post-766363
also.. the underdog powersupply is: http://underdogvapes.com/vape-accessories/electrical-accessories/wall-wart-12v
it says it can take "input: 100-240VAC 47-63Hz .4A"
google search says germany runs on 230VAC 50Hz. this falls within the range of the power supply, so you should be good with just a plug adapter. type A -> type F like here https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4
Check the power adapter to see if its 120v-240v. I'm away from home so I can't check mine.
If its only 120v, you need this:
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-International-Converter-Interchangeable-Worldwide/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449962906&sr=1-1&keywords=240v+to+120v+converter
If it says 120v to 240v you just need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Companion-Converter/dp/B00RBFK552/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449962986&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Travel+adapter&psc=1
You could also just buy a European power adapter. I know the 3DS is only 120v.
I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!
I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
I use a powerbank with a converter cable to power other 9v gear that uses a normal barrel connector. Been powering my Meeblip Triode with one. It works great!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID90E3C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are you just talking about the adapter? If so, there's not much profit on them since they're like $2-3 at most.
Actually, you can get 6 for $5.45 with free prime shipping
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0084OPT8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520185474&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=us+to+europe+plug+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41nK2NuYwSL&ref=plSrch
I am looking for the same thing but I couldn't find one so I'm going to make one out of a few 18650 batteries and one of these: XCSOURCE 5 pcs 1A 5V Micro USB TP4056 Lithium Battery Power Charger Board Module TE420 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I17Fyb5D8CDC7
It does require some sodering and I haven't done it yet so idk how well it will work. For a pi 3 it will probably require a couple other things to regulate the voltage and such but there are probably some guides that can explain it better
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1484834586&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+power+supply#customerReviews
Best one I could find with half decent reviews. Obviously more current than you require, but its cheap and will get the job done.
Buy a converter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6 or just Google "220V-120V converter".
I don't know if your Sony battery charger has a voltage Convertor (transformer) built in but this is what many people don't realize when they travel. A plug adapter to fit a US plugs into a foreign socket isn't enough. You also need to convert the power coming from the foreign socket (usually 220-230volt) down to the US standard of 110v. I used this when I was traveling and it worked wonderfully. Apple chargers typically already have the Convertor built into the small white brick/cube that plugs into the wall which would explain why your able to charge your phone.
If your Sony battery charger does have a Convertor built in or you're using one with the plug adapter and its still not working, you might need to charge via a USB from your apple plug or possibly charge through the USB cable from your computer. Don't know why it would stop working if using a power Convertor though.
The noise you're seeing is typically caused by ripple voltages backfeeding into the power plane from the ESCs. That's typically why you see the noise change it's visual consistency every time you throttle up and punch out. Your vtx won't allow for the setup I described so one possibility is to insert either another voltage regulator into the setup (not ideal but does improve the video), by tapping into the unfiltered 4s power rail, and then feeding regulated voltage into both the camera and the vtx. You would use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-DROK-Converter-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B0758ZTS61/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mini+voltage+regulator&qid=1567213464&s=gateway&sr=8-3
The other option is to take either the camera line into the flight controller or the flight controller VOUT into the VTX and feed it through an LC Filter like this: https://www.readymaderc.com/products/details/lc-common-mode-power-filter which works as a common mode choke (eg it resists rapid changes in current and quiets down the line).
It will reduce the noise but not completely eliminate it (but that may be enough for your application). What's nice about that filter is that it provides 2 filtering mechanisms, a common mode choke (which will cover you for about 90% of scenarios) and a single mode filter which would require a very specific set of circumstances in your build to realize the full value of. TLDR - switch between both and see which quiets your line :)
I use vtx like AKK Tek's X2 ultimates which allow you to feed unfiltered voltage to the VTX, which it then filters, then outputs to a camera (like 5v). VTXs in that class have anywhere from 5 to 7 pins, (VIN, GND IN, 5v VOUT, VID OUT, S Audio, and sometimes audio ports).
What you're trying to do is insert a filtering component between the camera and the flight controller, and/or the flight controller and the VTX...sometimes it's as simple as adding an electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the power source feeding the vtx (the capacitor removes the AC component from the power input which is what manifests itself as noise in your video stream). That's why on vtx like the old AOMWays, you saw lines of up to 4-6 ceramic capacitors all working to filter out noisy power rails before they got to the video stream.
After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.
2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1
1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller
10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator
Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.
Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;
-Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.
Most of the world runs 240 VAC at 50 Hz. I'll assume that's what you're used to. The US is usually 120 VAC at 60 Hz. Here is a handy chart of plugs/outlets. Almost outlets in the US will look like type A or B and be 110-120 VAC at 60 Hz. Some outlets will be 220-240 VAC at 60 Hz and be one of the others or something else entirely. I think every 240 outlet we have in this house has a different configuration. Some heavy appliances that use 240 don't even come with a plug on the end of the cord. You buy a plug that matches your outlet and wire it in yourself/hire a professional.
The outlets (at least the 120) are standard throughout all 50 states. 240 vary. 480 are rare. I would suggest waiting until you get here and buying an adapter locally with the assistance of a knowledgeable salesdrone at a hardware/home improvement store. It would not be crazy to consult an actual electrician who does this sort of thing for a living. But generally speaking, something like this would probably work for electronics and small devices, assuming they don't mind the 50/60 Hz difference.
When in doubt, don't. My grandfather had a saying: "120 will grab you, 240 will throw you, 480 will set you free." This outlines the ways that various voltages can kill you. 120 volts is strong enough to override nerves and cause muscles to contract. Since the muscles that grab and pull are generally stronger than those that release or push, you could very well be compelled to grab harder and pull in closer to the wires, holding yourself there until you slowly cook to death. 240 volts is stronger, so the muscle spasms could be so violent as to throw yourself away from the wires. 480 volts is so strong that it's likely to kill you instantly, freeing your soul from your body.
This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.
This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO
What you are up against is economy of scale - there is no market for an inverter like that, so there are no low cost (mass produced) ones out there.
You may have better luck getting a 24 to 12V step down and then using a 12V Inverter - I know this is clunky, but step down efficiency is usually pretty good.
Definitely go with Yeelight over Mi Light. The only thing to keep in mind with Yeelight is that in most cases, they need 220V for setup, so you'll need a cheap transformer to get them on your wifi. After they're set up, 110V is fine.
I used one of these and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/Simran-AC-200-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1487253876&sr=8-8&keywords=simran
Also, the cheapest place to get Yeelights with the most reliable shipping seems to be GearBest.
Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, merely a hobbyist.
> do you think it's safe
Yes I think so. There will be no amps drawn through the circuit until something tries to draw current. At this point, whatever's drawing current should draw only as much as it needs, i.e. a phone will draw a couple amps to fast-charge. It's not like the batteries will "push" excess amps to the phone, or at least they shouldn't. You can add fuses next to the battery just in case though.
You might need a switch that can handle a bit of extra current at power-on, as there may be a spark as the switch completes the circuit. In this case, the switch will work like a contactor, so don't cheap out on the switch or it might fry after a few power-on/off's.
Regarding the modules in the OP, those are way too weak. You can barely charge a phone at 500mA, and your charging circuit is limited to 1A. You can do much, much better so I really hope you don't use those. Aim for more power than you think you need, certainly 3A minimum to charge a phone, and think about how quickly you want to charge the battery. At 1A, it'd take quite a while.
You should monitor your cells regularly to make sure things are working as intended. Some folks would advocate a BMS, but if you're careful, you won't need one. It sounds like you know how to use a multimeter, and how not to overcharge/overdischarge your cells. After a few cycles, you'll get the hang of your battery's behaviour and I don't anticipate you needing to charge it to MAXIMUM CAPACITY or run it all the way out, so plenty of safety buffer on either side. Just charge up to 4.2ish volts/cell, and discharge to 3.0ish/cell, and make sure no single cell has a way to take a crazy imbalance of charge, and you should be good. Charge slow, monitor till you're confident. The cells should balance via their connections to each other through wires/tabs/whatever you're using to put them in parallel.
As a last tip, I'd advocate using a modular step-up DC-DC converter in your circuit so you can charge more than just USB devices. For example, wouldn't you like to draw 18/21V from your battery so you can power a laptop too? How about 12V to charge your drill? You'd be surprised how handy an adjustable battery pack can be to have around. Here's a little guy called the DROK Auto Boost/Buck Converter, equipped with a nice LED screen, that'll get you going within 30V or so. The only thing is that it needs a minimum of 5.5V input, so you'd need to do a 2S6P config on your 12 cells instead of your proposed 1S12P, but with a little hunting you can easily find one suitable for your needs. This one took 10 seconds to find. I liked the screen. Pic here.
If you have one shot to buy an inexpensive import power supply using amazon prime, I'd suggest something like this.
Just like UL and FCC labels, the actual current rating can be optimistic at best, and many of the supplies I've come across will enter fault protection at 50-80% of their rated load. Better to get something that will meet your demands even worst case.
You're going to need a charge controller. This is about the cheapest one I could find that will work with your hypothetical system, but it might not work at all if the power from the generator keeps dropping below a certain threshold. It won't charge at all if the generator is putting out less than about 13 volts, and I don't know how much voltage the generator would have to put out just to keep the charge controller turned on. I'd assume it would have to be at least 6 volts, as most silicon-based electronic circuits operate on 5 volts DC.
There are charge controllers that increase voltage so you can charge, say, a 12-volt battery with a 5-volt input, but those are going to be very expensive. They're generally designed for fixed installations and predictable input voltages that don't vary much.
One option would be adding a buck-boost DC converter between the generator and charge controller, such as this 20-amp one or this 5-amp one, but again, both of those require at least 6 volts on the input side just to function.
Backing up a bit: to prevent the motor from just running off the batteries, you'd need to put a diode inline with the batteries and motor. A diode is an electrical one-way valve, so you'd put it in such a way that current could only flow from the motor to the batteries, but there's a catch: diodes have what is called 'voltage drop'. The voltage passing across a diode typically drops about 0.6 volts, so your generator would have to be putting out at least 13.5 to 14 volts to effectively charge the batteries. The motor would then have to be spinning at least 125% of its designed no-load RPM, and that's going to be very difficult to accomplish in this situation.
Another thought: you might be able to find a 24-volt trolling motor. That would increase the output voltage at lower RPMs, but you'd definitely need a charge controller for that so you don't feed the batteries over 14.5 volts if the generator spins fast enough to put out over 15 volts.
Personally, I'd go with the solar panel. Prices have dropped amazingly in recent years. There's no maintenance (other than wiping the panel off once in a while), it's consistent, and will keep the batteries charged even when the boat is docked. Plus, there's no drag.
As for your adapter question: Austria and Belgium both use the standard Euro plug. I just take a simple adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0084OPT8C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485976494&sr=8-9&keywords=european+adapter
For powering devices... I don't take any adapters. If I'm already schlepping the laptop, why not just use the USB ports on the laptop to charge the devices overnight. So I just take my Laptop + Laptop charging brick. At night I plug it in, and plug my devices into the USB slots.
A powerbank isn't a bad idea however if you are worried about extended periods away from an outlet... but remember the laptop has a battery...which mean you have at least 4-5 hours worth of charge with you whenever you have it. Again... use IT as the powerbank.
hmm, maybe you need one with a proper transformer in it - something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepdown-240-120v-Transformer-100VA/dp/B000NIYF0K
You will need a transformer to run this without it blowing all your bulbs or catching fire. UK mains electricity runs at 230-250 Volts at 13 Amps, compared to the 125 V 5 A that they use in the US. You're putting double the current and voltage into that appliance than it is rated to handle. This should do the trick, but it might be burnt out beyond repair if you put 250 volts down it.
If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&pd_rd_w=1kwf3&pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&psc=1&refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE
This device I linked already includes a potentiometer.
Good luck, but keep in mind that a typical electric stove burner/hotplate is ~500-1000w, so I hope you are only planning to cook very tiny things. This will put out 5w at most as a replacement for a pair of AA batteries.
The plugs will be different too, either [this] (http://www.leadsdirect.co.uk/images/technical/US%20plug.jpg) or [this] (http://www.expataussieinnj.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/1024px-A_plug.jpg).
BUT!
You can solve both problems by buying an outlet adapter with a transformer that corrects the voltage. [Here's one on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF100-Universal-Converter-International/dp/B003DQSMGC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377050342&sr=8-4&keywords=voltage+converter) to give you an idea of what you'll need.
I had the same problem and my Sony Bravia TV does have a USB port but it’s always on power so it does nothing to trigger the Sync box. I built my own IR controlled micro usb plug with a few parts off amazon (amazingly, nobody makes an IR wall plug) and then I trained my Harmony to send the IR power command during power on and off of each activity. Pretty ridiculous that I’ve had to jump through such hoops when they actually have an IR receiver on the front of the box. I’m hoping a software update will fix this. If anyone is interested, here’s the parts I used to make the IR controlled wall plug:
12V IR Controlled Relay Module
12V to 5V Buck Converter Module
12V Wall Wart
I use lipo's with these. Provides protection and an easy way to charge them.
I was abroad in Europe and Africa for the first half of this year. I took the SKROSS adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072OOJCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7tluyb08XH73T) and the BESTEK power converter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvluybEB1BZW6) with me, and they both worked flawlessly
You'll need one of these.
Maybe it's just linking an amazon listing...
Here's a stepdown power supply for under 5 bucks
...
Now we wait.
... damn
I would actually recommend you to get a local one at every place you'd go through. For example, the EU uses a two pin plug converter, so just get one for that, and you're covered for both Germany and Austria.
There's no point in investing a lot for a multipurpose plug converter, because it costs way more than buying individual converters.
You can get one for $2 (Amazon) whilst a reputable universal travel adapter would cost at least $14 (Amazon)
So considering you have multiple devices, just get 2 of the $2 adapters, and you'll be fine.
I had that problem with my B3n but not with the MS-60B. I believe the noise is caused when two digital pedals inject high frequency clock pulses into the signal chain. When there's one, it's inaudible. When there are two or more doing this, they beat against each other causing what we hear as a high pitched hum.
I used one of these to solve the problem when it happened with the B3n and my tuner. I expected all my new TC pedals to have this same problem so I ordered a Cioks DC5 isolating power supply, which can fit inside a pedaltrain nano. Turns out all these pedals get along fine together so this board alternates between being powered by USB through this transformer, or via a single 1-Spot.
I am using this DC regulator to get 5V to power the Bluetooth. Maybe the difference being mine is not "isolated". Thanks for the suggestion. Might try it the next time I place a Mouser order. The Knacro amplifier does have a 5V output but I found it was only providing 1.5V most of the time and not powering up the Bluetooth. I did not notice any noise when using my Google Chromecast as audio input.
I would estimate build cost was $150-$200 although I have some material leftovers for future projects. ;)
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I've used this buck boost DC-DC converter quite a few times in my van. It controls the voltage and current, which you can set and save.
Set it to the voltage and current ratings on the Boosted charger.
Displays the voltage and current. Constant current until 99% then the board controls switching the charger on and off. The brains are in the board. Full charge in normal time. Better have a spare car battery, like a deep cycle marine battery, it would kill your car battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the reply!
> You're aware that 225 Wh is a quite small amount of power for most applications, right?
This is for a teardrop camper--its largely just so I can charge my phone/ laptop and run a couple lights, MAYBE a tv, for a few hours before bed when I'm in the middle of nowhere. The only reason I bought this battery pack was because I got it at a huge discount--I also have no idea what I'm doing and jumped into this project head first with no regard to my ignorance of electricity in general.
Would something like this converter do the trick you think?
You didn't need the converter, and it may have damaged your power brick.
Your device wants at least 100 volts, but no more than 240 volts. That means any wall plug anywhere in the world can provide enough power for it, and none of them provide too much. It then adapts whatever it gets into whatever your laptop needs. All you have to do is make the plug physically fit into the wall. Laptop manufacturers do this so they have one power brick for anywhere in the world that they sell laptops, all they have to change is the cord from the brick to the wall, and it also makes travel easier.
If you were using a voltage converter to step the 110V in the wall here to 240v, and then plugging in the Type C or Type E connector that came with your laptop, you may not have provided enough power. Even though the wattage says 90W max, that's the output side. No transformer is 100% efficient, and yours is rated at Level V, which means it's about 86% efficent, so you'd need an adapter rated at least 104W to provide enough 220V power for your computer... Check the description for this cheap voltage converter: http://amzn.com/B003DQSMGC ... pay special attention to where it says "Do Not Use with Laptops, Tools, Hair Dryers or other Heat Producing appliances." This is why.
Ironically, if you had purchased an even cheaper adapter that doesn't touch voltage, but just adapts the plug (http://amzn.com/B002TZBW74) you wouldn't have had the problem.
(If you DID purchase one like this, then the problem definitely isn't related to voltage, but the brick might still be going bad, it's just not your fault)
I've used one from this manufacturer on a project and it worked well:
http://amzn.com/B00C4QVTNU
One of these fed by an old ham radio power supply, car battery or any other reliable source of 12v is very handy for anodizing.
Let's you adjust the voltage and current to match the size of the parts.
DROK Numerical Control Regulator DC 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with LED Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ETtHyb0M3HVRC
This should do you just fine.
That sound kind of similar to my setup - 13" MBP, 12.9" iPad Pro, Bose over-ear noise headphones, Beats bluetooth headphones. I also carry a USB power pack for emergencies. I travel with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSTG93S which works to charge all of them, and has overseas adapters. I carry all of that in a bag very similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-Berkeley-15-6-Inch-BPCA-215/dp/B00CCJGIB2 (along with all sorts of emergency stuff - first aid kit, paracord, flashlight, etc). Fits great on flights and I'm able to charge everything overnight.
Is that what you're looking for?
Well, so I just went with getting off the shelf LED strips from Amazon; in turquoise. I'm driving them with an internal AC-DC power supply (Lower voltage / price than the linked one) which taps the switched 2 prong AC plug on the back, the posts and solder are SUPER THICC (Being from the 70s) so you'll have to work them a bit to attach something to them.
It was difficult to get the LED strips in above the signal meters and PLL gauge but It's worth it to have those light up nice and even, I still have to add a resistor because overall the lighting now is too bright. I did all this because when I acquired the unit the case had completely disintegrated and I had to replace it with an Acrylic one I made from an old museum display that was being thrown out...
If the adapter you have is the same as the one you linked to, then no. As it has the wrong shape. The Europlug has tapering sides, not rounded sides like the adapter you linked to.
Here would be a proper adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-US-EU-Travel-Europe-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO/
For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.
Do you already have an existing hardwired keypad with wires? If so, I used an adapter on one end (my wires terminate in my basement) like this one . I used a MicroUSB converter on the keypad end. You might need to make the existing hole larger. I used something like this.
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MEF293V
> it hasn't identified any lights
It hasn't identified any of my fixtures either (all on LEDs). It had picked up numerous LED strips powered via plug-in DC adapters and high-amperage DC power supplies. e.g. 12V @ 10A. Alas, it lost them a few months ago.
Most modern power adapters can run on 110-240VAC. You may need a plug adapter for the countries you're traveling through, but otherwise, the adapter should work. This Adafruit adapter is a good example. You just need a basic adapter since the adapter itself can handle the power. Avoid the fancy, over-priced "international power adapters" that are usually inadequate power.
There are two differences between Belgium and the US in terms of electricity:
If it is only for 8 days, I assume the items that you would carry that need a charge is your mobile phone/laptop charger and may be an electric shaver.
Most modern phone/laptop chargers are compatible with a range of voltages that covers both these: they have a "Universal Voltage Range" and are generally marked as 100-220 v, 50-60Hz (Like this) . You can use these in belgium without a voltage converter. But you would need an "adapter" so that you can use the US plug in a Belgian socket. I would suggest one of these. You will be able to find this in a local electronic store as well (Fry's, Best Buy...).
Some items, especially Electric shavers generally do not support both 220 volts and 110 volts. You will need a "converter" to convert between the voltage ranges. Something like this. However note that you may need a higher power (watts) converter if you are planning to use a higher power item (say an electric drill).
I would suggest to avoid the converter altogether if you can (do not use an electric shaver). that way you can avoid carrying the bulky/more expensive converter, which anyway will not be of much use when you come back.
^1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains_electricity_by_country
Edit: Added an image for a universal charger.
Has anyone ever tried using a 24v power supply and step down the supply to the ramps board with a converter?
No problem, I'm happy to help! That's an interesting choice of motor, I was expecting you to have to gear the other way, as in the blades turn once, and the motor turns several times. The motor you linked turns at 16RPM, or less than one revolution per second, to make 12V. That would require a LOT of gearing, possibly 2 or 3 steps, which is impractical for your situation.
I would suggest something like this motor. It's a 24V motor, with a 'no load' speed of 3500RPM. That means that if you use it as a generator, it will produce 24V at 3500RPM, or 6V at 875RPM, which is totally doable with a gear reduction (put the small gear on the motor) to the blades.
In regards to your other questions:
Batteries are kind of self-regulating, in a way. If you are charging a battery, the larger the voltage is, the more current the battery takes to charge. If you charge a 12V battery with a 14V source, then the battery will take a lot of current, and eventually taper off the closer it gets to 14V (which is perfectly safe for a 12V battery.) The larger the source (generator) voltage is, the more current the battery will take, which will load down the generator, making it harder to turn. So up to a certain point, the turbine actually can't spin too fast for the batteries, because the batteries will load down the generator more and more the faster it tries to spin.
However, in unusually high winds, this could break down. If enough force is put on the blades, then your generator could overcome the battery load and spin very fast, which would generate a voltage that would be high enough to damage your batteries. I would suggest some kind of braking system, or a way to quickly remove your blades in case of high wind speeds.
Does the adapter say 100-240V?
What does it say its output is. Example 12V 10A.
If not you need an Travel Voltage Converter.
Without, knowing the details 100W is probably fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Simran-SMF-100-Universal-Converter-Worldwide/dp/B003DQSMGC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409691186&sr=8-9&keywords=Travel+Voltage+Converter+USA+to+Europe
You can use it, but the current draw on the onboard regulator on the board can cause problems. My recommendation would be to just buy a bunch of LM2596 based buck converters (example: http://smile.amazon.com/Retailstore-LM2596-Adjustable-Supply-Converter/dp/B009HPB1OI/ ) and drop the voltage down to something like 6v.
So first and foremost you need to check what the espresso machine's power requirements are and compare them to those of your country.
Your machine has a Type J plug, while your country uses a type E/F.
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4
This adapter should work to convert the physical plug itself, but again, you must check the required power for the espresso machine vs what your country provides.
These are great and they're cheap enough that you won't cry if you leave one at the airport. Bring extras.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084OPT8C/
These were personally tested with my iPad adapter in the Charles de Gaulle airport.
I have not laughed this hard in a while. Thank you for that.
You can run another set of wires from the battery to a step down DC regulator to power the receiver at 5v. https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-DROK-Converter-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B0758ZTS61/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Step+down+regulator+micro&qid=1562346972&s=gateway&sr=8-14
Please share your progress. I want to see where you go with this.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have found this option for a 12v battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Phosphate-Rechargeable-Self-discharge-Replacement/dp/B07Q7FY8CC
Which would then require a charger as well...
Or this option for a boost regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-90483-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00C4QVTNU
I think I will try the later, based on this guy's YouTube explanation: https://youtu.be/jLia59KfkSw
Thanks!
There are TP4056 boards with a cutoff transistor for this too if you're on a budget :-)
For instance this
If it is a charger made to plug into an auto cigarette lighter, It is rated for the lead acid voltages. Even during charging of the lead acid battery.
A better solution to have a balance draw from the 24V, is to use a step down converter. You can google for others.
There is no 5v source in the box that I would recommend using in the box because the control board takes 12v and steps it down to 5v for the processor and other things on the board.
TH3D sells a board that connects to the power supply and gives you 2 usb ports for power, https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/raspberry-pi-3-amp-direct-wire-power-adapter/. If you are a bit of a tinkerer and have a fairly decent soldering skills and can figure out where to solder, you can get some 12v to 5v regulators and direct wire the Pi to the psu, https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZTS61/?coliid=I381MMKVXA4EGH&colid=3OG2ZT5QLWIBB&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I agree. I packed a lot of these when I moved to Korea. I could probably use more. Amazon 6 pack of adapters
Not really, live in Europe. There must be converters i guess? https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-220-240-110/dp/B001ES8YY6 for instance?
Get this [wall transformer] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepdown-240-120v-Transformer-100VA/dp/B000NIYF0K)
Aside from obvious techie stuff like extra batteries for your stuff, an external powerpack, an unlocked dual-SIM phone (I got a OnePlus X off of Amazon India for ~$150),and your own headphones (I always swipe one of those airline headphones with the annoying two-prong jack and have that on me along with my Skullcandy over-ear foldable headphones with the normal single 9-mm jack...although I may have to pick up an adapter like this and use that with my Skullcandy instead) and apart from clothing items like a sarong, rubber flip-flops, extra underwear, and microfiber towels, three things I never travel without:
The one you posted doesn't have the "OUT" pins like this one does. If your circuit can handle the charge voltage, you should be able to connect it to the BAT+ and BAT- points.
You will discharge the battery you are drawing the 12V from causing it to wear out sooner. Here is an example of a DC-DC converter that should work fine in your application.
Mine is a JA50, but this should also work.
> Middle East
It's really going to depend on where and what base. Any place that started American is going to use the same outlets. If it was the Europeans, you'll usually see this. Best bet is to get there and bum/buy some until you can order them. The PX will usually have a bunch of the correct type if they are needed.
Pi works fine with regular adapter. It states in the product details:
Input voltage: DC8-20V, (12V changes to 5V)
Ordered this one
That's what I'm starting to lean toward, yeah. I'm looking into 18650 lithium ion batteries for the first time. I'd hate to have this much circuit for something that seems so simple to me, but here's what I've got:
Switching LM2596 power supply to take 9 - 40V down to 5V
TE420 lithium battery charger
18650 flat top battery 2500mAh
5V 2A boost supply
Those things all put together basically form a 5V battery pack with the option to charge with 9 - 40VDC.
What do you think?
The title says 10a, but the description shows 10a max 5a constant. That power supply, just looking at the size, can in no way steadily deliver 10a. Then reading on it says 10a is fine. I would not use this!
Look for an old Xbox power brick, they work well. Or find an old computer power supply and run on the 12v yellow.
description
This is good too, I would wire up a small 12v fan to cool it: LEDMO Switching Converter, AC/DC Power Supply Adapter Transformer Driver for LED Strip Lights, AC 100V/240V to DC 12V 10A 120W LED Strip Light Power Supply Switching Mode Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cqu6CbW2XD8HY
if you want to get it working without modifying th psu you could get a step down converter.
here is one
https://www.amazon.ca/Simran-AC-200-Converter-Transformer-220V-200-watt/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=asc_df_B004MPR3X6/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292997009026&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1263100702828283604&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001825&hvtargid=pla-717561231072&psc=1
I see, that would be the smarter choice yes. Too bad, I really wanted this turntable. There are Step down AC converters from 230V 50Hz to 110V but it doesn't specify anywhere if the frequency output is 50Hz or 60Hz. :/
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Step-Down-Converter-230-115v-100W/dp/B000L99ZJ2
Hello, I recently did the same with a Marantz turntable. 120volt US model. I’m using a step down converter bought from amazon. Reviews of it are a bit hit & miss but it works. I was told to make sure you attach the ground wire from the TT to the amp to avoid any interference. My Marantz is a direct drive (not belt) so there’s been no problems (that I’ve noticed) so far with the speed.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Step-Down-Converter-230-115v-100W/dp/B000L99ZJ2
Hope this helps.
Yeah I realized I'd need something to change the voltage, then found this thing : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEESLZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IiL0Cb37AN4WE
I think with the one you linked I'd need another separate USB cord to connect to the cam, this one I can plug right into it.
I'll probably go with the t taps since I've used them before, my last question is, I can attach the t taps then test the taps with the multimeter, right?
I started with this but then switched to this so I could go multiple shows without recharging.
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Other supplies as needed:
these take you from 5v USB to 9V
these reverse the polarity to work with most pedals
these take you to 18v if needed
this is good for keeping an eye on your current draws and I had one mounted on my board initially to keep track of battery life. The larger battery pack has a battery meter built in I just align to shine up through a hole in the board so I no longer mount the USB meter.
this is what I use as a power switch
Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.
Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.
The only problem with the ego and using it to charge is that when your internal battery is low <40% and the ego is fullly charged it draws a ~10Amp current. The board wasn’t designed to draw such current. This is why with the ego people plug in theirs around >50% internal battery and ride which decreases the amps.
(I use an ego)
If you want to safely charge via ego to a dead internal battery I’d disgust using a voltage and amp regulator DROK Numerical Control Regulator DC 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Boost Converter, Constant Step Up Module Adjustable Output 48V 24V 12V DC Power Supply with LED Display https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_00EWBbNKW4034
Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY
And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.
Thanks - So would this work?
Sorry! Looking for a new one
Not sure if that’s considered advertising, but this is the regulator I installed for May 12v fans. I’m not affiliated with the link. Just recommending the product. You can solder a pas on the back to select the voltage output.
5v Regulator, DROK 5pcs Mini Voltage Reducer DC 4.5-24V 12V 24V Step Down to 5V Buck Converter Board 3A Volt Step-Down Transformer Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758ZTS61/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r6kDCbFAJCCR3
I use adapters like this https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Germany/dp/B007YKUWN4/
(works on French and German outlets, but won't work in Switzerland, Italy or Denmark)
...the little two-prong adapters are convenient, but so many of them are poor enough quality to be a safety hazard. I still have several but I try not to use them.
Hi Everyone,
I'm going to be traveling to Paris soon and am in the process of buying power adapters to use my electronics (don't need a converter, just the socket adapter). I'm trying to determine what the optimal power plug is for Paris--it seems like both Type C and Type E/F are used.
As far as I can tell they are all interchangeable, but I wanted to make sure from someone who's already there.
These are the ones I am looking into: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YKUWN4/ref=twister_B00EB90MTK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B007YL84VA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491228233&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=type+c+power+adapter
comment content: Hi Everyone,
I'm going to be traveling to Paris soon and am in the process of buying power adapters to use my electronics (don't need a converter, just the socket adapter). I'm trying to determine what the optimal power plug is for Paris--it seems like both Type C and Type E/F are used.
As far as I can tell they are all interchangeable, but I wanted to make sure from someone who's already there.
These are the ones I am looking into: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007YKUWN4/ref=twister_B00EB90MTK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B007YL84VA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491228233&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=type+c+power+adapter
subreddit: paris
submission title: STUDY ABROAD STUDENTS/TEMPORARY RESIDENTS/TOURISTS, LOOK HERE FIRST AND ASK YOUR QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD: Forum Libre // Open Forum -- 03 Apr, 2017
redditor: instinctellekt
comment permalink: https://www.reddit.com/r/paris/comments/632kxb/study_abroad_studentstemporary_residentstourists/dfrr6ij
78xx and the lm317 regulators are inefficient and not a good choice for battery circuits, the bleed off excess power has heat. Use a buck converter. They're super cheap, easy to use, and adjustable.
Buck converter - adjustable
http://smile.amazon.com/Retailstore-LM2596-Adjustable-Supply-Converter/dp/B009HPB1OI/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418790261&amp;sr=1-3-catcorr&amp;keywords=buck+converter
Another source for a 5V buck converter is the any RC hobby supply website, look for a 5V BEC. Most RC avionics use 5V, powered from much larger batteries.
Depends on your skill level but you could essentially power it with any DC power supply (eg. Li-Ion battery) that has at 'least' 5 volts and can produce 1.5 amps sustained (even if the pi does not use that much current, when the cpu spikes it may). You need a volt meter! It really helps out and their not expensive.
Now for the fun part - cheap and easy. Lets say you have an old laptop ready to get thrown away (or any rechargeable device) with a decent large battery, but its 12volts. You could use the laptop to charge its battery, so recharging charging is taken care of. No you could tap into the 12v pins on the battery on the inside so you could still mount the battery to charge. But 12v would fry the pi. There is a VERY cheap device that is 99% efficient to convert that 12v down to 5v and can support up to 3A which is perfect. Its called a DC to DC step down converter or DC Buck. It will normalize and smooth out the current as well. You need a volt meter and your battery hooked up to it, you adjust a small screw until you read 5v or close to it (5.1 is fine). Then just solder your USB Red wire to 5+, Black to Ground or Negetive. Ignore green and white (thats data). Here is a schematic to help out.
Ok so if that too complex or your not feeling crafty, you can go expensive and easy too! Get a power brick (a big one) on Amazon with a 2A USB connector for charging phones and iPads and so forth. They work the same. Here is what I recommend if you go this route. They work pretty well and will last for hours.
Good luck
Sounds possible.
You'll need an adapter to go from USB 5V to 9V for the camera: https://www.amazon.com/KUNCAN-Adjustable-Step-up-Regulator-Converter/dp/B01ID90E3C
And the DC power converter battery (offbrand one linked): https://www.amazon.com/CP-W126-CPW126B-Coupler-FujiFilm-HS30EXR/dp/B01DLNKDUY
Unfortunately I don't know of any guides, but its somewhat simple, the only big problems I had on the touchpad were that even with the battery removed and constant power connected the touchpad still believed the battery was discharging and after some time the touchpad would force shutdown so you have to also fool the tablet into thinking its charging, thats why I ran a 5v wire to the USB connector, that might also come in handy for powering USB devices, thats the hardest part, soldering to the very small USB connector, I cheated a little and removed the USB connector board, then connected it to a USB charger and tested with a volt meter to see were 5v was located on the USB connector board, there were a few places that were showing 5v, I just picked the easiest on to solder to, for me it was on the underside of the USB connector board,
This is the LM2596 DC-DC converter I used, its not the best but its cheap and seems to work well
www.amazon.com/RioRand-LM2596-Converter-1-23V-30V-Pcs-LM2596/dp/B008BHB4L8
If the LM2596 DC-DC converter starts running extra hot, I have not had that happen yet, you could add a heatsink like this LM2596 DC-DC converter has.
www.amazon.com/Retailstore-LM2596-Adjustable-Supply-Converter/dp/B009HPB1OI
I'm heading to Thailand again next week. u/LungTotalAssWarlord is correct that you shouldn't need a voltage converter (the item you linked to does not convert voltage, by the way). Most modern chargers/power supplies can handle 110v-220v and 50-60Hz - check your units to be sure.
While a lot of outlets in newer buildings may accept American style plugs you may need a few of these to convert to the rounded-style outlets that are typical in SE Asia.
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Europe-Asia-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0084OPT8C/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0084OPT8C&amp;pd_rd_r=E44463Y4D2XNNMEZ6J1K&amp;pd_rd_w=91JYj&amp;pd_rd_wg=j3XUA&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=E44463Y4D2XNNMEZ6J1K
Most outlets are 2-prong so have a work-around for that.
I carry a multi-outlet USB charger that works on all voltages, and I charge every with that. Have a great trip.
http://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Converter-From-220-240/dp/B001ES8YY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377310814&amp;sr=8-1
This won't support 15 amps though
I know I might be doing this a little over the top but I can (probably) fit in 3 cells (the Nitecores with 3400mAh).
I have to admit that 3 cells is a strech but with a little sanding I could get them in just barely. The real question now is the charge and discharge circuit.
These things are expensive, clocking in at around 15 bucks each. Therefore I dont want to break them (obviously).
I am planning to charge them with a micro usb, so I am planning to get some circuit that can do that. Also charge balancing might be something to be concerned about. Will the inbuild protection circuits of the cells handle that (if I put them all in parrallel would it damage to charge all of them until the protection cuts the cord on all of them?).
I saw one of these cheap boards on amazon:
https://www.amazon.de/XCSOURCE-St%C3%BCck-Micro-USB-TP4056-Lithium-Batterie-Charger-Brett-Modul-TE420/dp/B01DRT4PWY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505306549&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=18650+micro+usb
I am sure you have seen these everywhere, since all of them look the same. In its description it states:
"It has been designed for voltage: 3.6 3.7 V, usw., 18650, polymer and other lithium battery charge and discharge protection."
However it also says
"This module is used for single cell – Lithium or Lithium with multiple sections of parallel ports able to charge your Power from USB."
If I put them all in parrallel, this wouldnt be a problem, right? (since the cutoff voltage is always the same and they are also protected)
Lastly, If I put them in parrallel (which I am going to do to maximise runtime) I dont have to get a regulator that gets them down from 9v but rather that gets them up from ~3v (to 5v).
Any suggestions for a small and cheap board?
( I have a tight space budget. If possible no heatsinking. )
Your best bet is it to buy a dual voltage hair straightener. They draw a lot of wattage and therefore need a pretty beefy transformer. The same goes for hair dryers.
You'd need a beefier 200 or 300 watt transformer, which is too large for travel: https://www.amazon.com/Simran-AC-200-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502385522&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=transformer%2B200%2Bwatts&amp;th=1
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Simran-AC-200-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=sr_1_6
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
I'm leaning towards the first option for the converter. However, it only have one output plug, and not the strip like the other one. Since the converter would presumable convert the 230V outlet in Austria to 110V, does this mean I could use plug regular power strip that I've been using in America to it and power my devices through that strip (provided they don't exceed the maximum power of the converter - 200W). Please let me know if this is safe to use.
Powertools is a big step up from AAs. Very very different setups required.
First do you have DC powered chargers for your tool batteries? These should exist for people to recharge stuff in the truck and should run off of 12 volts DC.
You're going to want to get a 12V - 24V solar panel in the 30W to 150W range. That is about as big as can be easily handled for a temporary install. And then voltage regulators to turn the fluctuating panel voltage into something more steady. Then choosing DC powered battery chargers and choosing a standard connector to use for everything. Here are some examples of things:
Personally I perfer to avoid using a 120VAC inverter. It is much easier to run everything off of low voltage DC like you would in a boat or RV. But you need to be a little more selective about your devices.
But that is for a bigger setup. The smallest setup would be a 5W usb panel and an Olight UC charger.
Avoid the panels that have batteries built in. Overpriced junk. And putting batteries out in the sun is dumb.
> Just buy a cheap USB charger for $1 when you land so you have a local plug.
If he has a US charger that will work in Japan and South East Asia. Add a tiny euro converter to it (which you can get locally for like 50c) and it will work in India and Europe as well. It will also work in the UK/Ireland/Malaysia/Singapore, incidentally, you just need to press in the earth pin in the socket to get it in. This is what I travel with mostly, American plugs and that little adapter.
I'm slightly wary of the really cheap Chinese USB chargers, in my experience branded chargers tend to work better and may be less of a safety risk. I usually only use the one really cheap one I have to charge other cheap stuff that only requires a low current.
But for Japan/SE Asia US plugs work the best anyway.
Something like this? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepdown-240-120v-Transformer-100VA/dp/B000NIYF0K/ref=pd_cp_23_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0E3P6XMAPQDW40WYJ3YW For example.
That's a passive PoE injector, meaning plugging into a powered PoE switch will not work. It is a 2-piece system that just uses a DC power supply at the source end, feeds power over the unused conductors, then separates it back out at the other side, and it also doesn't have the greatest range at 50ft or so max.
If you're going to use with 802.3af PoE switch, then you want this one, which will actually take power from the PoE switch and won't need a separate power supply.
Additionally, if you've got a 12V DC power supply in the old alarm box or can install one, you can use these buck converters which will drop 12VDC to 5V3A micro USB, which will power the keypads just fine.
I am running one using this converter on a 12v system. It has the micro usb to plug directly into the pi.
HOMREE DC-DC Converter Step Down Module 12V to 5V Micro USB Output Buck Power Adapter (Micro USB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEESLZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PBa2DbTADD4PQ
Edit for more info
I am using a solar charge controller from Victron.
You could also get one of the cheap Renogy charge controllers that have USB output. Search for renolgy wanderer on amazon. I am not sure this one has temperature compensation so it may be hard on your batteries.
I think I have to pay about $30 shipping to send it back they have some sort of weird me to turn policy then I'll have to read over before sending it. I sent them an email with the video attached and they told me they will send it over to the supplier so they can review the video. It's been almost a week and I haven't heard anything back yet sometimes I think they like to run down the clock so that your return window of time draws to an end.
Ideally I would just buy a real 110v for around $150 Canadian. I'm gonna take a it now, because I'm not gonna get my money back for the de- soldering gun I can't really resell it because shipping would wont make it worth it. I can spend $50 and buy a better step-up/down voltage converter i guess. But i was trying to save some cash. I paid $90 Canadian for the de soldering gun. If I buy voltage converter it's going cost $140 do which is ultimately the price i was trying to avoid in the first place. Plus it will add another box on my bench for example this one. plus I barely will ever will use this thing for anything other than the disordering iron.
&#x200B;
I'm open to any suggestions. has anyone used an inexpensive compact 150 W step-up-transformer?. Should I just throw this disordering gun in the garbage ? and move on. I feel like if i spend $50 dollars on a disordering tool it might as well be this one Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker ?
The amp is a Line 6 Spider Valve Mk II 112 Tube Combo and the converter I'm looking at purchasing is this
https://www.amazon.ca/Simran-AC-200-Converter-Transformer-220V-200-watt/dp/B004MPR3X6/ref=asc_df_B004MPR3X6/?tag=googlemobshop-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=292907895240&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=17067176124547955436&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9061009&amp;hvtargid=pla-717561231072&amp;psc=1
I wish that I was better at EE so that I could answer your question, but more to the point, this is what I use and thanks to a heads-up from the guy that made “Konnected” for SmartThings → https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/
For my G85’s and GH4’s I use these 5v to 9v adapters plugged into a USB battery that allows charging while outputting. Battery also has a display so I know how much power is left, etc.
With this setup I can run both camera + SmallHD monitor (using the same adapter but in 5v to 12v) from the battery all day. If the battery isn’t fully charged, can simply plug it into a phone charger and have unlimited power, and can unplug at any time without worry.
The couplers for the cameras are generics off Amazon... had decent reviews. Don’t use the AC part of them, but the couplers are fine. Just need this DC plug tip to go from the 5v to 9v adapter to the coupler. The 12v adapter tip is the same size as most 12v monitors and recorders, so no adapter needed there.
The USB battery is the most expensive part of the setup, but if you only need 1 camera setup, it’s not too bad. I think the batteries were about $50 or $75 or so, the adapters $10, the couplers $15-20, and the DC tips $6 for two, or they have bigger packs. If you already have a decent USB battery, then it’s a great setup for under $40.
The adapter cords are very long, so I use Velcro straps to manage them, hiding them up under the front of the camera cage, or on the top on some I have cheese-plates mounted. Have Velcro on the battery too, so it can attach to plates, etc and hold the adapters, keeping everything tidy.
Rent: OK, that's a good chunk of cash right there. If I might make a different suggestion, you'll get far more for your money if you look outside of Central London. For the cost of a 2-bedroom flat in London, you could easily get a 3 or 4-bedroom house with a commute that's only a bit longer. For instance, Croydon or Bromley are both only 15 minutes outside London by train. London is maybe a little cheaper than NYC, although not the areas that have rent controls.
Taxes: Try the salary calculator here - https://www.thesalarycalculator.co.uk/salary.php . That'll give you an idea of what your take home pay will be every month. In the UK, people usually get paid monthly, not bi-weekly. As a US citizen, you'll still have to file your US taxes every year (this can be done through the US embassy or online) and, on that kind of salary, Uncle Sam will probably be wanting a bit of it. Speak to an accountant with experience of filing US taxes as they'll be able to help you with this.
Power: Check your electronic power supplies to see if they will run at both 110v and 240v - most small electronics will work on either voltage (laptop PSUs, phone chargers, etc). For these, all you need is a plug adapter. For anything that won't, buy a stepdown transformer - something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stepdown-240-120v-Transformer-100VA/dp/B000NIYF0K . Bear in mind, this works well for standard electronics, but for kitchen appliances and anything that includes a motor, this won't work (the transformer just handles the voltage, not the AC frequency). Leave that stuff at home and buy new in the UK. Tip: Bring a few US power strips to plug into the transformer, that way you can have multiple outlets from a single transformer.
Pensions: The UK has a state pension that you pay into out of what you pay in tax (part of your taxes goes towards 'national insurance', which includes the state pension). This is a bit miserly though, so look into paying into a private pension plan too - there are many that are set up like a 401k. Nest Pensions are pretty good.
Transportation: If you end up in Central London, don't bother getting a car. The Tube, black cabs and Uber will get you where you need to go. Get a Zipcar card too, just in case. If you are outside Central London, getting a car isn't a bad idea as things get a little more spread out. You can drive on your US licence for up to a year, but insurance won't be cheap as you'll have no UK driving record.
GBBO: Worth watching for water-cooler conversation. And it goes by its proper name in the UK - The Great British Bake Off. They couldn't use the phrase 'bake off' in the US as it's copyrighted by Pillsbury, apparently.
OP, you need a 12V to USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/HOMREE-Converter-Voltage-Regulator-Standard/dp/B01MEF293V
Wire that in place of the old clock, and plug your USB-powered gadget into it.
USB devices use so little power, you won't have to change any fuses or wires.
I found this little guy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEF293V/ref=psdc_583328_t2_B07DSBTJ3Z?th=1
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Can you confirm this would work? sorry for all the questions. It *looks* like it fits the parameters but I'd rather be safe than sorry. thanks again!
The supply voltage is 3.8-7v and peak current draw is 95mA. All together the components shouldn’t draw more than the max wattage of the powersupply, I checked that. How much can the regulator handle? The only thing I’d need it to do really just operate the sensor then I was thinking having a digital output go to the push terminal of the powersupply. Would that work?
Also, would a converter like this be sufficient?
(Buck Boost Converter Display, DROK Buck-Boost Board DC 5.5-30V 12v to DC 0.5-30V 5v 24v Adjustable Constant Current Voltage Step UP Down Voltage Regulator 3A 35W Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789QVKKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OM1XCb6HTT6CF)
Edit: Formatting
I did an amazon search for you: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=24v%20to%2012v%20step%20down%20converter
The first one would be fine.
Generally yes, if you need 5v you can take it from the Ecs most are limited to 3a.
Strip out the red and black, which you should already have done, and use those.
For a constant 12v step down I use:
DC-DC Adjustable Step Down Power Supply Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HPB1OI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_f1L9ub17EMF6T
This will take up to 30v down to exactly what V you want by adjusting the pot. It self adjust too so if set to 12v it saysat 12v from fully charged to completely discharged battery so long as the voltage stays above your setting. The reason I say this is because bright LEDs usually run at 12V, all is good when your running a 3s but if you go any higher you'll want to step down. When you get up to a 6S like I'm running it's imperative. I run my video TX and LEDs of one of those. I filter the power though and separate the buck really far from my video TX and Receiver.
http://imgur.com/bdNF5vS
I brought this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007YKUWN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yours says it's a E/F adapter, so it should work fine.
You basically just need something like this to plug into your wall outlet transformer. Plug that into the outlet (likely won't require the adaptor), plug the toy's cord into it, and voila. You should be able to pick one up at a hardware or electronics shop.
I can't comment on the toy itself, I'm an odd creature who isn't overly enthralled with vibrators in general. Everyone I know who owns one loves it, though.
The wiring was very easy. You already have 12v coming to the seat base, since the 3rd gen console has a standard 12v outlet in it. Tap into that for power for a USB cable (I used this... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEF293V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and for the wireless charger. For the data USB and aux line, I ran those directly to my head unit.
You can use a barrel connector for the connection, but you will need a power regulator of some kind in order to bring the voltage down to ~6V. You can look into something like this
Wow. Give me a flashlight and I can build it fine but this is harder. Would you mind checking my math please. I'll have 8 leds wired 2s4p and the vf is 3.7 at 4 amps. I'm coming up with needing 16A and 29.6v. Would this mean I will have to have a boost converter? If so I found this one, it's a lil bit more price wise but that's not a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GFVI6R6/ref=pd_aw_sim_23_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=J8ZMC8MBK3B2DWWAFW5H
I just measured the charge profile of the original charger. Then you buy
this guy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6, you attach it to a battery of your choice of sufficient capacity, and you program it to respect the same charge profile as the original charger. When you are at destination, you plug it in and charge the on-board battery.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFVI6R6?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
It's super easy. You could get new duckheads for your power adapters like these. Or you could get separate adapters like these. There are also these, which allow you to plug two things into one adapter.
You could also get the World Adapter kit from Apple, for $30. But that's kind of overkill.
You might want to check where you're going. Many places already have adapters. Many hotels have adapters at the front desk that were left behind by guests (like me).
Unless your robot is going to need a full 102W (more than my pc is using right now), that part is going to be overkill.
This might work for you, even though its pretty big. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B0789QVKKF
To use a Japanese power supply in the UK you will need a step down converter like this which I have successfully used with my Japanese Saturn.
I would set it up like this:
Main DC-DC (19-29 V in, 24V out) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01N52HIWN/ref=pd_sbs_328_19?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LWXI4IE&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&th=1
DC-DC 24V in to 12V out: https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=pd_sbs_328_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BWKXTUU&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&psc=1&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359
DC-DC (Battery in OR 24V in to 20V out): https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Adjustable/dp/B075RQCW7G/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=20V+dc+dc&qid=1566858344&s=gateway&sr=8-13
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have fun :)
Amazon sell a plug-in 100 watt step down for £15.
I recommend something like this as you also need to convert the voltage if your electronics are purchased in and for America:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSTG93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Right. Will this work better? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mercury-651-004-230-Step-Down-Converter/dp/B000L99ZJ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408487618&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=step+down+transformer