(Part 2) Best power strips & surge protectors according to redditors

And, although the extensions seem like a decent invention, they're not as great as just getting a power squid instead of a power strip.

Just last month, I ordered a number of these babies, and can't imagine how I lived without them:

http://amzn.com/B000083KIH

EDIT: found one with a surge protector.

Wow... have your sales guy add some surge protection devices to the new proposal. There's no reason a camera lightning strike should take out anything other than the camera.

http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Protector-Gigabit-Lighting-Protection/dp/B00805VUD8

http://www.radioandtrunking.com/downloads/motorola/R56_2005_manual.pdf

Not far into the comments section, I found this link:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Pivot-Outlets-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293128873&sr=1-14

Seems he could have saved some time in Photoshop with a quick Google search.

The answer is: maybe

There's virtually no surge suppressor that will save you from a direct lightning strike, but they will go a long way to protect sensitive equipment from the kinds of surges that course through power grids during really bad storms. They're not expensive, even professionally installed - I had two of these ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AQAKRSS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) installed by an electrician for a total of about $350. Given that I've got about 30 Z-wave switches direct wired in which each cost me about $35 it seems like reasonably priced insurance for the most common killers of the equipment.

Sorry for your loss OP :( I would sulk for days if that happened to me. Not even so much the cost of the gear, but the time invested in getting it right.

You're welcome even more

Go for this if you don't want the surge strip deal and just one outlet

Am I the only one who uses these? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000JE9LCK

they're the best.

Yes, this. Linky linky: https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B00805VUD8

That's exactly why I dont buy power strips, but rather power squids. Like this one

This looks cool and everything, but even better would be something like this. It just plugs into your existing outlets, and you secure it with a screw.

Make sure it specifically says it has a surge protector built in like this one does. 800-1000 joules should be minimum if you're going to plug in something that cost you hundreds of dollars, like a smartphone or tablet.

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

there are solutions.

I do, and why not? They are much cheaper than even repairing a major appliance and take like 10 minutes to install.

EDIT: I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Eaton-109420-Ultra-Surge-Protection/dp/B01AQAKRSS/

Did the install myself, it just hangs straight off the side of the breaker panel and has it's own 50A breaker. Pic: http://imgur.com/SnSXGZs.jpg

Yup. Put something like this between the powerline adapter and your switch. You can ground the surge suppressor to the grounding screw that's likely on the back of your UPS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BKUSS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500252918&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ethernet+surge+protector&dpPl=1&dpID=31T2csu01XL&ref=plSrch

If you already don't have one, I would recommend getting a surge suppressor for that Ethernet line.

Smart plug, it gives you a remote on/off switch for anything you plug it into through a phone app or google assistant/alexa. Unless you have something like a light plugged into an always on outlet and you really want to turn it off from your bed, this isn't going to be something for you.

I have the HS110 which is the same thing but it has energy monitoring which is the main reason why I got it (current power in watts and it tracks daily, weekly, and monthly usage). This is similar to a Kill-A-Watt unit but you get the extra smart switch part of it. It it huge so it covers the 2nd outlet which is a disappointment so I would recommend the HS300 surge protector which is pretty much a $70 power strip with energy monitoring and each outlet can be controlled individually.

https://smile.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3

Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.

• PoE Switch - If you want to use a PoE switch, you have to get the PRO APs, the LITE and LR only support passive PoE. I was lucky enough to have inherited a Cisco SG300-10 802.3at PoE+ Switch from my former employer when they shut down. It's very convenient to use, but not a necessity. The PoE Injectors that come with APs have a nice mounting plate so that you can attach them to the wall/shelf/what-have-you. If you're dead-set on using PoE, Netgear has some decent, inexpensive offerings. 8-port PoE without VLANs $80, 8-port PoE with VLANs $100. If you're running out of outlets, and are on a budget, I would suggest buying a bigger power strip (Belkin makes a nice one I've used in a lot of applications) (or, if you're moving to rack mount, a PDU plugged into a UPS)
  
  
  
  
• Patch Panel - For flexibility, what you'll want to look for is a keystone panel and then populate it with your own jacks as needed. (If you want to throw in Coax you can, and if you want/need a phone jack in there, just use another CAT5E)
  
  
• Rack - Based on what you said, I think you are looking for something like this? You could also look at making a lack rack, if you're into DIY.
  
  
• Additional thoughts - If you are sharing the internet connection with your tenants in the basement, you may want to look at using a "proper" firewall that can VLAN them onto their own subnet, and keep them out of your internal network (for security reasons). When I set up my parent's network, I put all of the "Internet of Things" devices (thermostat, sprinkler controller, solar monitor, etc) on their own subnet and VLAN because they are something that I have very little control of, and I see as being a big network risk. Just my $0.02
  
  Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.
  
  Cheers!
  
  Edit: additions in bold above

And if you're worried about a surge coming in via coax cable, get one of these (high speed data compatible):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00737FWLK/

Via data cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKUSS8/

They might not protect against a direct lightning strike. Not many things can protect against a direct strike unless you want to spend thousands of dollars on commercial grade stuff. But it might help against an indirect strike which happens a lot more often than direct strikes.

Yup, which is why the one sold at amazon that has been out on the market longer than this art student has had a computer is clearly fake.

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Pivot-Outlets-Telephone-Protection/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1293128873&sr=1-14

I'll go ahead and give you links to Amazon, but they're available everywhere. Tripp Lite, as /u/Knobodycares said, is a great brand. They're most known for their server racks, and UPS systems, but more importantly their PDU (power distribution units), which is what you need.

Their best (pricey but best-in-class), is the Isobar line. 4 outlet, 6 outlet, 10 outlet. They shutdown when a surge which would otherwise fry your equipment occurs, instead of simply allowing the power through.

Their other models, 7 outlet, 8 outlet, 10 outlet, are also much better than your average retail brand, and are generally cheaper. They all come with some form of insurance, as-well.

These are only a handful of options, check out the rest here.

Ethernet Surge Protectors do exist... but I've never been in a situation where I needed to use them.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8

If he already ran cat5, install a switch in the shop and connect the cat5 to the switch (as well as connecting it to a LAN port on the router in the house). In the shop, you can add an access point for him to hang off of the switch to provide better wifi in the shop.

Where does the shop get power from? If it has it's own panel, I recommend getting some inline cat5 protectors and put them on both sides of the cat5 run. When extending networks to other buildings, it is best to use fiber, but that does complicate things and increase price.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481391077&sr=8-1&keywords=inline+cat5+protector

https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B00805VUD8

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wO6Dzb86Y2P02

This is as close as I could find... Might work with ifttt

Aeon Labs makes a zwave power strip with individually controlled outlets.

This might be more readily available, works well, havnt had any issues with them. This mounts on the pole, near your entry into the house. Use a small grounding rod + solid copper lead. I wouldn't worry much about lightning, as you said, everthing will fry anyways... but POE radios, like the one you are using are sensitive to static buildup. The wind, and especially snow/hail against the mast will create huge amounts of static charge, this has killed many radios (I worked at a WISP). The surge arrestor will ground this charge and make everything stable. Use shielded ethernet cable, for your sanity and as a tribute to those radios whom which we've lost.



https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ETH-SP-External-Suppressor/dp/B00R20OIAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484862505&sr=8-1&keywords=ubnt+surge

I'd be very surprised if a Monster surge protector was any better than an APC one for half the price. APC specializes in that kind of thing and Monster specializes in marking things up immensely.

Thinking there was probably some kind of electrical fault when you plugged the cable box back in(Like Chris said below, could indicate that your outlets are not properly grounded, but you would need an electrician to check that). Damage might not have been caused by the cable box.

If you don't have one already, definitely get a surge protector for your more expensive electrical appliances and don't use a regular power strip. The good brands come with a equipment protection warranty and they will cover the cost of your equipment if something like this happens. I have two from APC that I use (just make sure to keep all the paperwork that comes with it and register it with them if you get one to be covered if anything happens again). https://www.amazon.com/APC-P11VNT3-Performance-SurgeArrest-Protection/dp/B0012YFXSW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467054605&sr=8-4&keywords=apc+surge+arrest

I've switched over to power squids

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055YB7IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1459095612&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=power+squid&dpPl=1&dpID=41iW%2BGhL5qL&ref=plSrch

You can actually buy electric outlet faceplates that do that. Also you can get this, it has two USB outlets on top of it. If you aren't technical enough to swap out a faceplate.

+1 for those wallpapers.

And yes, a new surge protector. I like the Tripp Lite ISOBAR8ULTRA.

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-8-Outlet-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1320740165&sr=1-1

Tripp-Lite https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000513US/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538781581&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tripp+lite+surge+protector&dpPl=1&dpID=41btj3R2tEL&ref=plSrch

Pretty solid.

You want an Ethernet surge protector, not a modem one. Modem ones 'can' cause issue but not always, Ethernet ones never cause issues.

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8/

And wire the green wire to earth somehow, I have mine wired to the Earth pin on a plug and I removed the other 2 pins on the plug.

The one you linked should also be fine and won't cause issues if you only use the Ethernet ports and not the DSL ports, but I havn't tried it, I prefer to have separate devices.

Solid list! Two underrated items to add to the list that come in handy throughout the college career and beyond: A Bucket (10-14 Qt.) and a surge protector/power strip.

The surge protector is self explanatory - outlets are high demand in dorm rooms, this one is awesome.

As for the bucket - you won't know you need one until it's too late. It's uses include: carrying items, storing items, puking in, cleaning with, 3rd trashbin, sitting on, icing drinks, jam sessions, pranks, drunk helmet, watering plants, snow castles, sand castles, poor-mans picnic basket.... The list can go on! Get yourself a bucket.

I got a few Belkin Pivot Strips recently. They have a lot of outlets and seem to work pretty well so far.

I really liked theQuirky Surge Protectors but I don't think they're made any more. One of my two just died on me.

I'm not a fan of the Power Squid. Takes up too much room.

I'm gunna blow your fucking mind here:

Surge Protected

Not surge protected

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-D080B-008K-PowerSquid-Protection-Conditioner/dp/B0055YB7IA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345825246&sr=8-2&keywords=power+squid

I always liked the look of these. It would make it easier to have NES, SNES, Sega and all the consoles with big transformers all plugged in.

I wouldn't trust anything from the dollar store to be connected to the mains.

I personally use this and have not had any problems:
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00ATZJ606

Don't cheap out when it comes to power.

I have a few like that actually...some companies need to catch up then. my usb plugs are difficult to put in this.

I'm using SmartThings and I love it. Though I couldn't tell you the differences since I don't use Wink directly.

I have several Link bulbs, so those should work. And your GoControl kit is all zwave, so it should be fine. I have several of their contact and motion sensors on mine, though I'm unsure about the siren.

I don't know about the power strip though... can't find anyone discussing it on the SmartThings forum. You might try emailing support, they should know if it's supported.

Is it this one: Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius if so, let me know if you get it working. Seems to be the best price on a smart switch yet.

or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI

Plenty of space for what ever you decide to plug in.

It sounds like it should work fine to me. However make sure you include a lightning arrester in there. Last thing you want is a lightning strike going right into your structured wiring.



Something like this:

Ubiquiti ETH-SP Ethernet Surge Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R20OIAY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mWewCbBHMH1WC

The on/off plug just kills the power, its not initiating a system shut down or anything. I use a Octopi with a webcam to print and monitor and I have it and the printer in a smart plug. Works great for me and has saved me some pain in the past. Plus I don't like leaving it on unattended for long periods. I would definitely get an OctoPi going if you're doing things remotely though. Its got a ton of features, but makes remote control easy.

Edit: I use this https://smile.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3?sa-no-redirect=1 to control 2 printers, two raspberry Pi, and some lamps. I was out of town for a week and I just had my wife remove the prints each morning, but I was able to work on it and turn on the lamp when I knew it wasnt going to bother her to check on prints (versus leaving it on always)

What are the make and models of the PSUs?

Also, most 'surge protectors' don't protect against surges. this is a surge protector*.

This and things like this will do exactly fuckall.

Even the 'real' surge protector that I linked however will fail to do much if the power you are getting is just 'dirty'. Stuff like that will take the hit from say, a lightning bolt, but if that 120hz signal is wavering between 100 and 140, then your mileage may vary.

If you want real protection, get a battery backup. That'll partition your electronics away from the wall.

Just wanted to give you an update.


I have lots of tripplite products so I am confident in the quality but I just remembered that they have another product that may be enough for you. Isolation transformer might be overkill but will def take care of the pops you are getting on the line from the other appliances.


They also make this product.

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-Isobar-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458406893&sr=8-1&keywords=isobar



Basically it has a coil to filter out noise which is what you want.


Just wanted to throw that out there since it may be another option as opposed to a heavy 1:1 isolation transformer.

If the power goes out a lot where you live then I would go for the UPS. If not, just get a good surge protector. This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000511U7 If you get hit with a surge, just call them and they will ship you a new surge protector for free. Check the reviews too, this is the best surge protector you can buy IMHO.

isobar

It's basically one of the only REAL surge protectors you can buy. More importantly, it removes EMI and RFI and takes a cruddy electrical system in an old house or even a new house if your electrician sucked, and makes it clean so it stops burning your electronics. Other surge protectors have no filters and don't stabilize the electrical signal. Most surge protectors don't do squat and aren't even rated for lightning.

Stop as in freeze or stop as in reset? If it reset (and here we enter the realm of speculation) then it may be that OctoPi reset itself (brown out detection?) and as it was coming back to life it triggered the bootloader on the Anet to reset the main processor.

Anyway, something like this may be affordable. Won't supply power like an UPS but can help in some situations.

Be aware that surge suppressors that use MOVs can fail catastrophically. See here among others.

No, get something like one of these ...

https://www.amazon.com/APC-SurgeArrest-Notebook-Pro-Suppressor/dp/B00066ISFM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81E

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-TRVL918-Protector-3-Outlets-Charging/dp/B003VTXY8M

I always charge my batteries with a Motorola Cell Phone adpater and a surge protector like this one. That should help with the power issues.

It's unfortunate, but true. Although theoretically, I shouldn't have a problem with the communication stuff, I know mine definitely does NOT do that. I'm using it just fine with this $12 charger off amazon (attached to this because I don't trust it that much.)

If you look at what /u/bradn said, do you think one of those supplies off ebay would work?

I do something like this, if only for looks.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Network-Grade-Wide-Spaced-RS1215-RA/dp/B00006B834/ref=asc_df_B00006B834

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/electrical/power-strips/surge-protectors/ul100bd-multi-outlet-power-unit-125v-15a-9-14l-5-outlets-15-cord

The above link is a 5 outlet strip with a circuit-breaker that is push-back-in to reset, but no switch.

I've worked with several supervisors who would refuse to have anything mission-critical on a power-strip that had a switch - either someone stepping on it under a desk, or someone setting something down on top of it could switch it "off" at an inopportune moment.

I've found the easiest to find are the 3 to4-ft long wiremold strips with outlets spaced every 4 to 6 inches, rack-mount strip that still have a switch but have it under a cover that requires unclipping before you can manipulate the switch, and the good old industrial supply places where you will pay 2 to 3 times what the hardware store will charge but find exactly what you desire as one of the 200 power-strip options.

Here you go.

I made some very large improvements for slightly more.

• • -
    PCPartPicker Part List
    
    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $329.00 @ B&H
    Motherboard | MSI - MPG X570 GAMING EDGE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard | $209.99 @ B&H
    Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $52.99 @ Newegg
    Storage | HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $108.99 @ Newegg
    Video Card | Sapphire - Radeon RX 5700 8 GB Video Card | $349.99 @ Newegg
    Case | Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
    Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $76.98 @ Newegg
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total | $1172.93
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-15 23:55 EDT-0400 |
    
• • -
    Breakdown:
    
    You seem like the kind of person who rarely upgrades, someone who favors doing it long-term (4+ years) rather than short-term (1 to 3 years). If it's possible, I suggest getting the R7 3700X; it's got a LOT better single-core and multi-core performance than the R7 2700X, and may be more what you're looking for. The R7 3700X's much high single-core performance also means much better performance across the entire Adobe suite. The very impressive multi-threaded performance should also be excellent at streaming for a very long time, especially since you just want to do 1080p and don't mind going down to 720p later down the line.
    
    I'm assuming you want the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC because it comes with Bluetooth and Wifi. I swapped in an X570 that gives the same features. If you want to avoid the headaches that have been prevalent throughout r/buildapc as of now, get X570 instead, if you want to use Ryzen 3000 out of the box with zero issues. However, if you're patient, you can save $49 by updating the BIOS by using USB BIOS Flashback, all you need is a flash drive. But then again, you may want to use X570 if you want to use multiple very fast NVMe SSDs, but the majority of people don't need this.
    
    Cheaper 2x8GB 3000MHz CL16 RAM.
    
    Much faster 1TB NVMe SSD for $21 less.
    
    Upgraded the GTX 1060 6GB to the RX 5700. The RX 5700 is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2060 Super/RTX 2070 for only $350. If you chose to get the B450 mobo, you can even squeeze in the RX 5700 XT, which is on the same level of performance as the RTX 2070 Super/GTX 1080 Ti/Radeon VII/RTX 2080 for only $400. I strongly recommend waiting for aftermarket versions of the RX 5700/5700 XT to come out in mid-August for better cooling, lower temps, lower noise, and better performance.
    
    Swapped in the MX330-G for much better airflow, this'll make your components run much cooler.
    
    This 550W Gold PSU is more than enough for your PC; it also comes with a 10 year warranty.
    
• • -
    Q&A
    
    > I would also like to know any options for power surge protection. My current computer got wacked by a sudden issue with our powerline which would provide power intermittently. This has caused it to be able to operate but freeze and BSOD out of nowhere. The HD also 'creaks' so this just signals the effects of that event.
    >
    > I want to avoid that from happening again on this new build, so any suggestions would be great.
    
    A simple surge protector like this might be what you're looking for in case of another power surge; after several surges, it'll stop working, and you'll need to get a new one (there's usually a built-in indicator that says whether or not it can take any more surges).
    
    Maybe consider also getting a UPS (uninterruptable power supply) just in case a power outage happens; this'll allow you to back up important data so you don't lose it.
    
    Both a surge protector and a UPS would be good ways to protect your investment.
    
    > Another detail that may help: I also would like to stream my art. I can do that already without much an issue but there is definitively a minor lag (both in the program and the stream itself). This has caused me to just do webcam streams. Looking also for a setup that helps with video editing for future tutorials I have in mind (via Premier Pro/ After Effects).
    
    The R7 3700X should alleviate any lag problems with your art streams (what is your old CPU anyways?).
    
    I mean the R7 2700X will too, but the R7 3700X has that extra OOMPH for the long term.

This would be my suggestion of what to buy for $3000. I'm sure most people on this sub would disagree with my more budget oriented picks. I'm just putting it out there.

Feel free to explain why I'm wrong.



Item | Price
---|---
VIZIO P-Series Quantum 65” | $1,500
Pioneer SP-PK52FS Andrew Jones 5.1 | $505
Denon AVRS740H | $403
100ft Speaker Wire | $13
Surge Protector | $25
Apple TV 4K or Nvidia Shield TV | $180
HDMI Cables (2x) | $13
Total | $2,666
|
Optional |
Banana Clips | $20
VESA Mount | $35
Atmos Speakers (In Ceiling) | $75
Atmos Speakers (Stand Alone) | $240



For 4K and HDR it is very important that your HDMI cables are capable of 18Gbps. I have never had any signal issues with Monoprice cables, and the slim form factor of these cables is ideal for cable routing and management. Two cables is the bare minimum you need to get up and running. Obviously buy the appropriate length and amount that you need.

**For the Atmos speakers you only need one of the two options. In-ceiling speakers are objectively the superior quality and cheaper option. But they are not realistic for everyone's living situation. That is why I included the stand-alone speaker option. The speakers I picked would replace your two surround speakers and act as both surround and Atmos channels.

Couple things I would check would be your home's electrical ground. and I would if not already done so install a COAX surge protector.

https://www.amazon.com/TII-Broadband-Cable-Lightning-Protector/dp/B0016AIYU6

You could also put an ethernet surge protector between your system and the router.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8

Disclaimer I am not making a recommendation on parts. Part links are for example only.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8

I've never personally used one, but there are lots of people making in-line network surge protectors. You have to connect the ground wire to your PC case or power supply.

I think you are worried about lightning protection? I wouldn't worry about it on a direct buried cable, but if you want to be safe get this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BKUSS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503629636&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cat+6+lightning+protection&dpPl=1&dpID=31T2csu01XL&ref=plSrch

And if it were me, I wouldn't run 5 cables from your switch direct buried. I would run 2 and use 1 (the 2nd is just a backup) and connect to another switch in the other room. This gives you flexibility to do whatever you want in the new place. Your ISP is probably feeding you 50-80 megs or so? You can easily cover the whole pipe with a single 100 meg cable. You don't need to homerun al your drops

Belkin 8-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 6-Foot Power Cord, 2160 Joules (BP108000-06) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JE9LCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0vt7AbJXM875F

Put the second monitor on a lazy Susan on the edge of his desk so he can rotate the screen and watch Netflix in bed on his computer. Should only cost $2 and vastly increases quality of life :D

Other things:

-- Ties for wire management - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jqgbub0823QYK

-- Rotating Power strip and duct tape to tape that shit to the underside of the desk (beer will be spilled at some point) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Xxgbub0E3RY3J

-- Computer lock and cable to stop pesky thieves

-- LEDs that are daisy-chained and can be plugged into a USB

-- A USB hub for all his gadgets

-- Wireless bluetooth speaker (many uses outside of his normal computing)

-- Microsoft ergonomic keyboard 4000 - most comfortable keyboard ever - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUIM4E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nygbub1ZK53VH

-- Bluetooth touch mouse - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093H4VBU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_9wgbub1542WT5

-- Exercise ball chair (also, with that weight limit... Lots of fun can be had doing.. Activities.. Of all sorts... Ahem..) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DG9KIE0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_wrgbub07AKZHX

-- Some sweet headphones - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XEYT48/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Gugbub07RHAXS

-- A handheld wireless keyboard/mouse (not what you think, this is badass. I have one. He can use it for presentations and stuff too) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UE52ME/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Kvgbub004D1EF

-- Go to a pawn shop and get a third computer monitor (make sure his gfx card can handle it)

-- USB can cooler or 'hot plate' that keeps either your can of beer cool or your coffee warm

Anything with a link I own and definitely recommend.

I see your problem, you need one with a black cord.

Yup, i have a few old game systems and they all have big "wall wart" plugs. So you get one of these!!

Belkin 8-Outlet Pivot-Plug Power Strip Surge Protector with 6-Foot Power Cord and Telephone Protection, 1800 Joules (BP108200-06) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JEACFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UYx7AbXDJ4H5Y

Or any other brands equivalent.

Awesome!
Thank you!

I'm gonna install this. HARD.

BTW it's much cheaper on Amazon

I see this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YFXSW/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B00548AGOI

No idea if it causes slower speeds though.

I use one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012YFXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I know, and I can buy them, or buy one of those squid surge protectors, but the point was that I would be happier if they just came that way.

Yeah, I daisychain a PowerSquid off one of my wide power strips, which gives me more than enough room for lots of different options for huge wall-warts.

Something like this....

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-PowerSquid-Surge-Protector-Power/dp/B0055YB7IA/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0055YB7IA&pd_rd_r=JS3V3S0WVYCT7NF86D2E&pd_rd_w=5uhxT&pd_rd_wg=I1ilL&psc=1&refRID=JS3V3S0WVYCT7NF86D2E

No, it won't significantly prevent this, but it wouldn't hurt anything.

Lightning will do whatever it wants to if it strikes close enough, and it can take several months before the full effects of the strike are realized.

Here are ones that support gigabit, you will need a way to connect them to a ground

fire and security tech here, 18+ years.

lightening damage generally doesn't occur from lightening striking your home or devices directly. nothing short of extensive direct-to-earth grounding offers any kind of protection against direct lightening strikes, and that kind of equipment is almost never installed for residential use.

http://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Building_protection_system

the only time i've seen direct-to-earth lightening mitigation for home use is on farmhouse or other isolated structures that are the highest point for the area. if your home is single story, and there are trees near by, you are very very unlikely to need to mitigate direct lightening strikes. my reference is north florida and the midwest, i don't know how other regions may use lightening protection.

lightening damage almost always occurs from lightening hitting trees or power poles, and having that electricity jump to house wiring as it finds a path to ground. so your source of risk is not cameras into the home, but rather plugged in appliances leading out to the cameras.

lightening surge can enter your network through the modem connection to the internet, or through phone lines if they punch down into your gear. you are advised to run any exterior coms cable through a surge protector before tying into the network.

they do make surge protection for network cables, but i reiterate that you will generally be protected by installing surge protectors on the incoming network & phone & TV cables.

surge protection is generally not needed between your cameras and the POE switch.

https://www.diteksurgeprotection.com/products/network-protection

https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B00805VUD8/

If you're running things outdoors as others have mentioned get an outdoor rated ethernet cable preferably with ground.

Something else you should consider is something like this as it'll trip in the event of a surge through the cable and save your network hardware:
https://www.amazon.ca/Ethernet-Surge-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B00805VUD8

I grabbed 2 of these, one for work, one for home. They do an awesome job.

https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-6-Outlet-Mount-Surge-Protector/dp/B00ATZJ606?th=1&psc=1

Alternative method and cheaper, especially if you need additional outlets of course, it isn't as clean looking.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATZJ606/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another option I just set up is a Quirky Power Strip that works with the wink ecosystem.

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AL1uyb4JQV91A

It's a power strip that has four outlets on it, two of which can be controlled by Alexa and the wink hub or wink app. I set this up a couple days ago. For my living room I have four lamps and the Christmas tree on two separate quirky strips. (I used an outlet adapter to split one of the lamps and the tree to make it all fit. I.e. lamp and tree are one smart outlet)

You can individually label the plugs and therefore say "Alexa turn off lamp 1", and only that light will shut off. They are also grouped so I can say "Alexa, turn on the living room lights" and everything lights up. I have the same setup in my bedroom on a single strip that controls three lights and a hair straightener that my life always forgets to turn off. Beauty of that is when we're on our way to town and she starts the inevitable worrying about it I can open the wink app and see if it's indeed off or on and react accordingly.

Side bonus, if I say "Alexa, turn off the lights" without specifying which lights she will kill or turn on every single light connected to those strips no matter what room they're in. Living Room and bed room both go dark at once. Convenient lights out function.

These strips work really well and are the cheapest option I've found so far. For the price of one Wemo or TP link I get double the outlets, quadruple if you count dumb outlets you can't voice control.

Another option would be to add an Amazon Echo/Dot to your set up. It would allow you to add and control a smart plug, and be able to control your Hue system as well (Although, the plug would still not be accessible from the Hue app). In my opinion, the best bang for your buck smart plug that works with the Echo is the Quirky Pivot Power Genius. It is a little finicky to set up, once set up though it works pretty flawlessly in my experience. We have had ours set up for about a year now and have had to reset it once that I can recall.

They can be useful to help lower your overall energy usage/bill, but a combination of devices will get you the most.

I use this to monitor the whole house, compare consumption over time, estimate my next bill.

Now lets get dirty and figure out how much is being pulled from each outlet. Something simple and portable... get this.

Next consider what appliances/devices must be on 24/7.... router, sure. Phone charger... probably not. TV, amplifier, room echo... then try this can you can set powering devices to schedules

I use these but got them on sale at about half that price and one at a garage sale for $5!

Are you supposed to put a ETH-SP on both sides of the outdoor cable? I would assume so... Let me know. I ran cat5 out to my shed for a camera and will be adding the cam in the spring. Thanks!

It says protected right on the product - so it must be good!


(But seriously - at least get an APC Surgearrest)

Thank you again! The power strip is a: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.3PiDb6Z8HKXJ

Not super cheap, but not a proper UPS either.

I'll read through the article in depth and give it a shot.

You probably want to get one large power strip rather than two, I reccommend APC brand, which you can get on Amazon.

Since your desk looks wooden you might need to flip it over and install a metal bar or two on the underside so that you can velcro or ziptie everything there. What I did was I actually mounted the powerstrip onto the wall behind the monitors so that it was hidden there, but easy access.

As for the colored lamps (all very cool, btw) you can make any lamp cordless so long as you have a soldering iron (pretty simple to operate and pretty affordable as well).

Hope this helps you out!

My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...

But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.

So I got

Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97

JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55

Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21

Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24

SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25

10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4

Still have 8 dollars left over haha.

Breh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_v0bPzbBXZS4SB

This is the receiver that is often recommended around here. It'll future proof you for when you do upgrade but it's the top of your budget.

If you're looking for a simpler option - this one is pretty bare-bones.

The watts per channel doesn't matter nearly as much as you would think. If you're driving your old HTIB Onkyo speakers, just make sure your impedance matches and you're all set as long as you're not looking to drive them to ear-splitting levels constantly.

Without using something like a Harmony remote to turn on and off all your devices, the easiest way to power on/off your receiver is using a smart power strip. (That was just the first Amazon listing, you can poke around for more offerings if you want).

I whole-heartedly agree with the TP-Link advice. They JUST WORK...PERIOD. You can do a search on Amazon for smart power strip. This one is Amazon's Choice. Good ratings but not near as many reviewers

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Compatible-TECKIN-Multiple-Extension/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537840288&sr=8-7&keywords=smart+power+strip

​

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537840422&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+smart+power+strip

While there are screw in bulbs, they are meant for nano tanks mostly. With that budget have you considered T5 and cheap LED lights? I’d recommend the Current USA with four of these T5 HO fixtures

With these lights you’ll for sure grow any coral you want easily. You can put the T5 on these wifi controlled power strips so you can set them on timers and the LED has built in programming.

Like this? Not yet released but soon.

Edit: This should also be what you want.

Or if you need more outlets.

Maybe this will be more cost effective..

​

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3

Buy a Tripplite surge protector. They're extremely high quality and their warranty will cover up to $50,000 of damage if a surge damages any equipment plugged into it. I work in scientific research, and my old lab had every rig plugged into one for noise reduction and surge protection with the warranty.

They're heavy, and a fair deal more expensive than most surge protecters, but it's well worth it in my opinion, for just the situation you've encountered.

I believe they also have models that accept ethernet.

Damn I really don't understand this stuff. Also it sounds like maybe you're talking about modifying a homes circuitry(?) and I'm a renter so that's a no go.
Now I'm getting super skeptical of all these Surge Protectors though..

What about this one does it seem ok? It's got a pretty high Joules rating (high number=good right?) and a supposed $50,000 equipment warranty. That all sounds pretty spankin' to me...

For the $50,000-insurance'd surge protectors it's not a consumer brand. We work in manufacturing and maintenence will only order those surge protectors. They are pricey (like 55 bucks for an 8 port I think), but they've basically been really good at what they do for decades.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000511U7

Just figured I'd add that if you were looking for more info on why Tripp Lite seems to have a good reputation in the industry.

so are you not recommending surge protectors? what do you recommend? are you saying something like this is worthless?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511U7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Belkin isn't particularly well known for paying that warranty...

I would be wary of $15 surge protector that comes with a $300k warranty.

This is a much more reliable product and company.

As mentioned they don't effect quality but do protect from surges.

I recommend a Tripp lite Isobar.

That's a great question actually. Here's a good example.

Here's a typical home 'surge protector', but they are only rated for 200 joules.

The thing to understand is that surge protectors can protect via several different methods, but the most common is for it to essentially fry the internal protection. You have to think of the rating kind of like the health meter in a video game. If you have a 1,000 joule surge protector, its probably wasted after ten hits of 100 joules.

If you want something that will protect expensive stuff from lightning, you're looking for something with a rating in the multiple thousands of joules. Like here's an example that's rated for 3,330.

Of course, there's more to it if you want to read about amp ratings and such, but that's the quick rundown.

This is why everyone's home router or printer seems to die every time a lightning storm comes around. Because they are plugged into a surge protector that likely had a very low rating, and its been in use for years and years.

/source: Am an IT guy with a computer science degree who routinely has to deal with server rooms and networking equipment that has to be protected.

I have the same problem... I just got a surge protector with a flat plug to move the outlets to the side of my nightstand.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000513US

I would venture the noise depending ds on how much current is being drawn from the supply. The wifi probably draws one or two orders of magnitude more current than the mfj bulb.

About the outlets- if you can't easily add more, try a tripp-lite isobar surge protector/ powerstrip. They include rfi filters, so great for the shack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000513US/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469831091&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tripp+lite+surge+protector&dpPl=1&dpID=41btj3R2tEL&ref=plSrch

Hey TBone, before I respond to what you wrote, I just wanted to let you know how much I've appreciated your ongoing support here, it's definitely recognized and has been very helpful! Also, I've spent a good 8+ hours reading about UPS+SP technology/physics since my last message. :)


> First, the concern about the load and fire risk...

Totally get it. Realistically, I'm expecting a load of 800w to 900w, which is why I raised it. The 1.5k I'm citing is a truly one-off extreme I doubt I'd achieve (involves SLI, OCing GPUs, CPU, RAM, and monitors), while also benchmark testing all of these components at the same time, doing an audio recording, and moving the desk up. I wanted to plan for this level (works out to 12.5A, btw - this room is provided 15A, per my apartment's unit's circuit breaker). Getting back to it though, if I exceed 900w, which realistically I think I will 1-3% of the time I'm using the computer, based on rough napkin math, it seems you're saying I won't have mechanical failures. That's great! Hopefully this isn't used as a set point to break the circuit however, as I'd rather not have to disconnect things to avoid power loss 1-3% of the time! That would be really frustrating. However, if the 900w rating is purely for UPS, then it's a non-issue and I don't mind losing those few seconds of power supply if I have an outage just then. Do you know which it is?

​

​

> Next, how do know know what surge suppression amount is enough and concerns about lightning prone area...

Terrific analogy, really helped get me going and reading tons more to understand. So, I see there are home SPs at 3K joules that can be bought, but from what I can tell, I don't think I can install them directly to my apartment unit's circuit breaker. Furthermore, everything I'm reading is saying neither this or outlet-SPs are capable of withstanding nearby lightning strikes, it's really just for far-away ones (and other surges). That home-based SPs are really intended more for outside surges (that's my major concern), while outlet-based SPs do that (to a lesser extent), but also protect for in-home surges (e.g. a motor kicking-off on a fridge or A/C). The latter being a lesser concern for me probably, as I don't perceive any symptoms of that being an issue (i.e. no flickering lights when appliances get plugged in or kicked-on).

The product you mentioned doesn't indicate clamping or response times, which seem important - these were the sort of metrics I was wondering about if SPs had, and with reading, I see they are accounted for, just not with this product! Not sure where you'd look to get that info, since manufacturer doesn't provide? (seems like a bad sign) Btw, this is the SP I was considering prior to our discussion (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513US), which is 3k joules, 140 clamp (unnecessarily low, since I'm not running labratory precise equipment and the "safe zone" is purportedly 330v for a 120v railed for most appliances, I wouldn't want to go too far below 300v [othewise it'll just lead to the MOVs "burning out" sooner), but also unknown response time. Sadly, it's not a UPS, and as you say, daisy-chaining it with one probably voids warranty and is a risk to renter's insurance!

Regarding SPs not being useful once the protection dies out, I had no idea! I did dig into this a lot more though and, at least with MOV based surge suppression, I think you can salvage them. Many retailers sell them in bulk for cheaper (e.g. https://www.radioshack.com/products/surge-protector?variant=20332051141). Seems to me it should be a straight-forward DIY to replace them. An indicator light to know when they have failed would be preferred over setting an arbitrary date on a calendar to do so, however. I'm reading some indicator lights may be misleading though? And of course, we'd have to make a point of periodically checking them (kind of like tire pressure for cars - I'd rather check those regularly to discover if I have a leak, rather than arbitrarily replacing my tires every few years).
Regarding SP technology, there appears to be three main ones. The MOVs and "other" gas-chambered approaches, both of which are rated in joules. The third doesn't have joules rating though and apparently can last virtually indefinitely, as it never "burns out". Take a look here; I'm curious what you'll think (sadly, they don't have any UPS options, which brings up the below discussion on daisy-chaining): https://zerosurge.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/6R-8R-Series-0318.pdf It appears to be 175 clamp, "unlimited" joules, and similarly unknown response time. It costs $290, btw.

​

​

> What about Daisy chaining surge suppression?

Makes perfect sense. And that's really frustrating. As I've gotten to know more, I feel confident in daisy chaining safely and understanding the associated risks, but this loss of insurance protection is not worth it, as my renter's agreement would cover the cost of my equipment. As for the warranty-voiding, that too would be frustrating, although I'm reading most people never manage to get them to make good on the claims (even with meticulous receipts). As mentioned earlier, sadly, I don't think I can get a SP for my whole apartment unit...correct me if you think otherwise, but it seems this is a touch elaborate. Of course, you don't see my unit, so that might be too hard to respond to meaningfully, in which case, no worries.

​

​

As an aside to all of the above, I've been reading evaluations of coaxial/ethernet SPs have shown not to be beneficial during surges. Seems it may not be as greater as one would think. :(

USB Stereo Sound Adapter

Wood Box

Chef Craft Paring Knives

Eyeglass Repair Kit

Tripp Lite 1 Outlet Portable

Scissor

Scissor

But i would wait till black friday.

I suppose you could do that, but it's definitely not ideal. You'd be essentially drawing power for up to 10 devices off of one outlet if you plug the 10 switch PDU into one of the outlets of the power conditioner. I assume it would probably be ok since both devices are rated at 15A, but I can't find any information on what one individual outlet on a power conditioner/strip is rated for.

If you're absolutely dead set on getting the 10 switch PDU and you still want a minimum level of filtering and surge protection, I would probably get something like this Furman power strip and plug the PDU into it. It still offers a standard level of EMI/RFI filtering and standard level surge protection and it's only $34. Plus, it has a built in circuit breaker so it would shut off in the event that anything did get overloaded. Along the same vein, this one has slightly better filtering and better surge protection for $43 and this one is the top-of-the-line one for both filtering and surge protection for $90. I would go with one of those if you want the filtering. (probably the $43 one if it were me)

Alternatively, you could forego the filtering and just get one of these for $10. That would at least give you the surge protection. The difference being, without the filtering you might notice a hum in the speakers or pick up radio stations in your equipment, etc. The filtering just lowers your noise floor to some extent and helps keep unwanted interference out. If you never use a microphone or electric guitar/amplifier you might not need it (except for the speakers). I would say surge protection is a must though.

Edit: I just found this two-outlet surge protector that has almost double the joules rating for surge protection as the $10 one-outlet surge protector I mentioned earlier and it offers EMI/RFI filtering (probably not as good of filtering as the Furman ones, but it still has some). That would probably be a good choice also.

Sorry for the wall of text, there are just so many options!

You can use one of these for the washing machine 115V.

And as others have said, the 240 for the dryer should go in the breaker box. If you have spare breaker positions, you can get one that simply plugs in, and 1 wire to attach to ground.

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B81E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for my laptop all the time.

Might I suggest adding a surge protector inside your mirror to protect your Pi and Monitor from basic surges? Something like this:

http://amzn.com/B00006B81E

Or do the splitting with a 2 way box like this (It also will take more of a hit than the previous one):

http://amzn.com/B00006B81D


I notice your weather was Philly (South Jersey here!) so thunderstorms may not be the biggest concern, but I think it would be worth adding.

Along with this, if you're willing to spend a little bit of money you could consider getting a basic rack mount PDU like Tripplite PDU which might allow you to consolidate all the power closer to the source and let you route/bundle it a bit cleaner - instead of having all the wires reaching back to the bottom of the rack.

What you want is a Power Distribution Unit or PDU. They come in all sizes from a hand full of sockets to a lot of sockets. Something like this Tripp-Lite will work.

Is this brand reliable? I know that Furman is the standard, but for what I need, it’s out of my price range to get two of them (or more).

Tripp Lite Rackmount Network-Grade PDU Power Strip, 12 Right Angle Outlets Wide-Spaced, 15A, 15ft Cord w/ 5-15P Plug (RS1215-RA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B834/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FtC7CbDJC4F5W

I have like, 5 of there. If you need to plug into a power strip, these are the way to go. Otherwise, use a Furman or a rackmount power thing. These are cheap and useful : https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Network-Grade-Wide-Spaced-RS1215-RA/dp/B00006B834/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483140763&sr=8-6&keywords=rack+power

New Tripp Lite Rackmount Network-Grade PDU Power Strip, 12 Right Angle Outlets Wide-Spaced, 15A, 15ft Cord w/ 5-15P Plug (RS1215-RA) - Price: $45.96 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B834/ref=asc_df_B00006B8345157357/

For what kind of outlet/amperage?

I've got two of these and they work great, but if you can use a 30A one you could find some much better deals on eBay for used enterprise ones.

Thanks, but I already ordered one off of amazon.

this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B834/

I'm using this one.

I'm certainly no electrician but I do try to google with just a little more effort when it's electric. It's been a while since I brought everything down so I'm really not that comfortable only assuming that I'm hovering around 7.5A. If I was constantly sitting just below 10A I don't think I would be very comfortable with it, given there are at least 4 other outlets sharing the breaker. Someone else would probably have a much better answer than me if you want more info about a safe power draw. As for the PDU I bought... I was happy but after looking at the link again I realize that mine isn't the model with a surge protector and now I'm wondering if a break and inline fuse is enough for me now :P

I am thinking of getting this guy after I noticed a faulty socket in my existing surge protector. I swapped the bad one out with a good one but I still want better.


Tripp Lite 10 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip Tel/Modem 8ft Cord 2395 Joules (TLP1008TEL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AI0N2/

Triplite makes excellent surge protectors and aren't terribly expensive. I bought 3 of these and they work well.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Protector-TLP1008TEL/dp/B0000AI0N2

Also saw this
https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Standard-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing/dp/B0014598WQ

Now I'm still having trouble understanding the benefit of the APC or Cyberpower over something like the TPLink below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AI0N2?ref_=pe_623860_70668520

Can you also explain how these work with modern day devices and having multiple hooked up drawing power? If I have my Sub, AVR, TV, PS4, Switch, etc that like 5-6 devices all pulling energy. I assume most of these surge units just plug into a standard wall socket and and provide enough juice for all devices without causing one to shut down or function incorrectly due to lack of juice.

Yeah, there's no real reason to switch away from that PSU (cost is pretty well the only reason it isn't the standard recommendation). Surge protectors generally have multiple outputs, but they aren't equivalent: most such things do nothing much for surge protection. As for recommendations this will outright refuse to provide any non-safe electricity (so when it fails, it simply stops providing electricity, rather than providing unfiltered electricity). This doesn't have that feature (it just has an indicator light to tell you if it's protected or not), but that does mean that you wont have instant power offs once the MOVs fail.

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: bitcoinguy2002

Content:

>Since I am using 2 PSU's for my 6 GPU cards, I am not able to plug in 2 TPLinks in my outlets, so I am using a power strip Tripp Power Strip!

>Right now, I have it as Outlet > Power Strip > TPLink HS110 > PSU

this is a great surge protector

The really important bit is to use an inline ethernet surge suppressor on both ends. You can use the one in a UPS, if you already have a UPS nearby and handy. Otherwise you can use standalone "bullet" style suppressors like this or this, or you could go with a power strip with Ethernet surge suppression.

Note that the cost is very similar between the standalone suppressors and the full power strip, which might make a difference in your decision. The standalone is probably more robust protection against actual lightning-strike levels of overvoltage, but ONLY if properly grounded with the spade connector. If you're at all uncertain of your own ability to properly ground the suppressor, you should probably go with a power strip that plugs in with a three-prong plug, since the third prong grounds it for you.

I tried putting my cable modem on a surge protector a while back, but it ended up messing up my lines or something, so I settled for the modem getting fried and bought this instead. It sits between the modem and router.

To answer '1', your speed would likely drop using the APC protector that is only rated at 10/100. It's possible that it won't and that they couldn't get high enough speeds to certify as 10/100/1000 but may still get pretty close.

​

To answer '2', yes you can absolutely use both cables. For short runs you won't notice any difference in speeds by mixing the cables. CAT6 is the same connections but using better shielding and twists the already twisted pairs to assist in being affected by interference over long distances.

​

To add a another option, you could use an in-line surge protector that is dedicated solely to the CAT connection. You connect both of your cables at either end and connect the ground cable to the ground prong on your outlet using a power cable that has the ground plug on it. https://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8/ref=asc_df_B000BKUSS8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126093426&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=505423349040086280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026802&hvtargid=pla-314322209240&psc=1

Similar

Thank you for the feedback. Although I do have everything connected to a surge protector (this one) I will look into ensuring that it is actually functional.

They already make these!

So you're suggesting I replace my eight outlet surge protector with eight 1' long extensions? Okay smart guy, just where am I going to plug those eight extensions into?

For the eight extensions alone it'd cost $22 and you'd still have to get a surge protector to go with them. Then compare that to the $20.88 it'd cost to just get the Belkin. Then there's the clutter issue because of all the extra cables you'd be adding to the mix. The choice is pretty damn obvious.

Extensions don't replace a surge protector/power strip. They're good for those one-off scenarios where you have a single bulky adapter you need to plug in to a pre-existing setup, but they're not a valid alternative in a new setup.

Would this do? (Note: am Canadian, must use Canadian Amazon lest it take longer than the rise and fall of nations to arrive and customs comes to my house to beat me with sticks) I have no idea how to calculate from length and gauge provided there. The Hanvex cables from Amazon.com are not available on the .ca site unfortunately. The Belkan surge protector there is though.

Okay, I definitely still have more questions and buckle in because there may be quite a few of them and I apologize for that but you didn't think you could change my mind, but we will see. I will try to explain my setup as detailed as possible. I will preface this by stating that I do believe I know more than the average user about electricity, but I certainly don't know a ton and I would like to know more as I have always been interested in electricity, technology, etc. I will also preface this by stating I live in North America, so American circuits information should be good for me.

My three circuits I use for electronics are always below 70% load and usually below 60% load I believe so that is a good start, certainly better than 90% load yeah? My UPSes are always under half load even when everything attached to them is at full load. My UPS I use is the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD - I have 4 of them in total, 3 in my house 1 in my cottage. We will focus on my home for now since my cottage is rarely used whereas I am always home. I have three UPSes each on one circuit - each connected to one wall outlet/plug/receptacle (whatever you want to call it) - I believe the total peak draw or whatever of the UPS is 15A. One UPS is plugged directly into the wall, the other two are plugged into a surge protector - one of the surge protectors is this one: http://www.techexcess.net/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=P5308Y-ABA and one is this one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-3020J-Surge-Protector/dp/B0012YFXSW - which one is better? After each of the 3 UPSes, they are plugged into a surge protector, and only ONE of the surge protectors has another surge protector plugged into it - I am out of outlets and I simply had to daisy-chain them, but I suppose I could rework my setup so there is no more daisy chaining.

For the maximum number of receptacles on a breaker/circuit, would receptacles be wall-plugs/outlets, or total number of devices connected to that circuit regardless of how they are connected? I assume that it would be total number of wall outlets, but I am not sure on that.

Again at stated earlier, my circuits are all well below 70% load at all times. I have not tripped any of my breakers since I have had 1 new breaker and circuit installed and one new breaker installed to replace an old one at my home, and one new breaker and circuit installed at my cottage - so that would suggest that they also are not being overloaded - unlike before but that is another story. I have ALWAYS known that tripping is bad, and recently in the last year I have taken it seriously enough to make sure something is done about it.

I have no idea what isolated ground is. I know the theory of ground to some extent and what noise is at least in regards to audio, but could you explain isolated ground and how to accomplish that etc?

As for removing my surge protectors in front of my UPSes, that is certainly something I can do, but I may need an extension cable for them - any issues with those? What guage should I be looking for to make sure a 15A UPS is okay? Can you link me to an example extension cable that you think would be suitable?

Also, what is worse in general - a surge protector in front of the UPS or behind the UPS (connected to the UPS) or are both bad? Basically, my UPS does not provide enough battery-backup plugs for me since it only has 8 and I have many more devices than that (although, I suppose I COULD technically unplug some of my devices and leave them unplugged), so should I plug a surge protector or just a power strip into the UPS and if so which particular model should I consider or would both a power strip or surge protector plugged into a UPS be a bad idea? In my current setup, is the number one "issue" the fact that there is one surge protector dasiy-chained into another surge protector?

As for lightbulbs, I have already replaced every single incandescent lightbulb with 9W or 18W LED bulbs at both my cottage and my home.

Any other general suggestions would be appreciated.

I think this is the closest I have come to the 10000 word limit on reddit, wow.

I have three of these and I swear by them.

Thanks for the reply. I'll try and answer your questions as best I can.

 

The black wire terminal was in contact with the bare metal ground wire, at the time I turned the breaker back on, causing the event. The circuit in question (where I was working on the receptacle) tripped, as did 2 or 3 adjacent circuits. The adjacent circuits tripped after I put some load on them soon after correcting the receptacle I originally screwed up. They reset with no problem and I have been using them fine since then.

 

The protectors are your average $15-30 belkin and apc "surge protectors" such as this one: Amazon link . As well as a standard 6 outlet barebones power strip. These just simply do not work anymore as tested with a simple receptacle tester. My house certainly has only 120 and 240v.

 

I do not know what to inspect, which is why I will be calling an electrician. All circuits appear to be working fine, except for the microwave running on any circuit.

Yeah get rid of the cheap crappy plug strip and buy something thats of decent quality.

apc plug strip

Thanks. What about this one? Will this do a better job? - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YFXSW/ref=twister_B079PXZ3KQ?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 (model P11VNT3), or the better priced https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J2EN4S/ref=psdc_10967801_t2_B0012YFXSW

​

Perhaps i can begin by hooking power via such a source first, and over time plan to pass the coax and Ethernet through it too for incoming internet.

I have a few of these:
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector 3020 Joules with Phone, Network Ethernet and Coaxial Protection, SurgeArrest Performance (P11VNT3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012YFXSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qvNQCbYPK8DYG

I Also use these:
https://www.tripplite.com/datashield-in-line-surge-protector-network-phone-lines-1-line-rj45~DNET1

Sounds like he needs a power conditioner instead of a simple surge protector. Any motor running on AC is going to cause spikes on the circuit.

Yes

Just like with most products you can find one that splits it or one that is a surge protector. They make both as people have different needs.

Alright I found this one that would work. https://smile.amazon.com/Accell-D080B-008K-PowerSquid-Protector-Conditioner/dp/B0055YB7IA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&sa-no-redirect=1

Why don't you just get a power squid? http://www.amazon.com/Accell-D080B-008K-PowerSquid-Protector-Conditioner/dp/B0055YB7IA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373518285&sr=8-2&keywords=power+squid

Surge protector?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00805VUD8

generally you ground things by connecting it to the earth. You really don't want to just tell your cable it has to stay there and go to bed without dinner.

EDIT: you also want to check the two buildings' grounding so the connected devices don't combust into flames when you slid over the rug too much.

Or you can use these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00805VUD8/?coliid=I2UZC3IJ48AOSK&colid=LV8HOZEJXIJG&psc=1

At minimum, be sure to get some surge protectors...

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Surge-Protector-Gigabit-1000Mbs/dp/B00805VUD8

Also if you're going to use wire, rather then fibre optics, just use the Cat 5E that you already have, it will easily last you a year or two directly exposed to the elements. Paint the the cable jacket with Plasti Dip, it holds up pretty well to the elements... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqX2W13gSkg

I always travel with two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-SurgePlus-6-Outlet-Mount-Protector/dp/B00ATZJ606

After 2 people ask me if I had travel adapter to charge their iphones, I just installed this in one of the outlets by the night stand.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-SurgePlus-6-Outlet-Mount-Protector/dp/B00ATZJ606/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417626761&sr=8-2&keywords=belkin+usb

it has the added benefit that it screws into the wall and less likely to be taken.

Nope.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-SurgePlus-6-Outlet-Protector-BSV602tt/dp/B00ATZJ606/

Nope again.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CPS1220RMS-Protector-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B00077IS32/

You are simply not correct.

So it's possible. It's not an out of the box thing though. There's a Pivot Power Genius that you can control with Stringify to power things from a flow, but you'd still need to effectively push the power button on your computer. Pivot Power works best for things that, once you plug the in they're on like a coffee maker.

I think what you'd really want is to use a rasberry pi that's running all the time with an HTTP listener (that maker would trigger) that would execute a WOL (wake-on-lan) command to their computer. It's typically an option in your BIOS... you send the WOL "magic packet" to the computer's MAC address. See also this resource

Two smart outlets.. 25 dollars. Works with IFTTT. Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wakAzb7HWQS8V

I don't, but if you're interested in a good deal, this seems like a better one.

Quirky PPVG-WH01 Pivot Power Genius, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN92MC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tICBzbGC5B007

You guys are nuts spending so much money, wtf. OP, here you go: http://www.amazon.com/Quirky-PPVG-WH01-Pivot-Power-Genius/dp/B00GN92MC6

Super cheap device

(discontinued, but still work) I have 2 (total of 4 smart 'outlets') and they are cheaper now then when I bought them a year ago or so.

Thanks. I was looking at this one as well
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC11-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483907173&sr=8-1&keywords=DSC11-ZWUS

Here are some options for a Z-Wave power outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-5&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+power+outlet

I use smart things and a couple Aeon labs smart strips for my aquarium lighting and control. I also use a couple of fans that come on randomly in different orders. The idea is changing water currents will blow waste through the filters.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW

​

This is a good one, if work with SmartThings and can set up each smart plug as a different device. I use a few of these.

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Oh7DAbCFQ66EE

This is the one that I have from them, which I assume has been deprecated in favor of the one that you’ve linked:

Aeotec by Aeon Labs DSC11 Smart Power Strip Z-Wave Power Sockets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H3RL6JW/

Thankfully, someone figured it all out for SmartThings (custom device handler) and it works GREAT, with 4 of the 6 sockets controllable and monitored, so I can see if I forgot to turn the den TV off, for example.

I have this one and it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW

Zwave. Needs a hub or controller.

Aeon Labs makes one

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC11-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

I have one and it works just fine.

I can definitely take a few pictures for you. Give me a little bit and I'll post them.

Hardly anything shows under the desk. The main artery of cables are running along the back of the desk. Fastened to the underside is mainly the keyboard/mouse cables, usb extension (I superglued a 4 port usb hub to the front of the desk), and the cable running to my Z906 controller (also glued to the desk).

This is a life saver that any battlestation owner should be aware of! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_19LJxbMK6JHFH

Looks good!

I screwed a 10-12 outlet power strip (like this) onto the base of mine and that's been really convenient for all the various things I've had plugged in.

Full parts list:

• 8' birch butcher block
  
• 4' birch butcher block
  
• 7 28" HD 3 rod hairpin legs
  
• 2 zinc strips, for joining the pieces
  
• Opentron OT4126 4' power strip
  
• J Channel Cable Raceway for cable managment

I use something like this. Opentron OT4126 Metal Surge Protector Power Strip 4 Feet 12 Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rhkLBb59QFBNH

Is that different from this power strip below in amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-20&keywords=power+strip

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PB800012-12-Outlet/dp/B0027D3LNG/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1480988313&sr=8-18&keywords=power+strip


https://www.amazon.com/Surge-Protector-Power-Strip-Workbench/dp/B01JDQPAB0/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1480987836&sr=8-21&keywords=power+strip

Yes - used this to route in and out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00193U3O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then mounted a long industrial power strip up under the desk.

https://www.amazon.com/Opentron-OT4126-Metal-Protector-Outlet/dp/B00O8NVPBI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527186399&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=industrial+power+strip&psc=1

I use this. Not quite 15, but it works great and has a good 400 joule rating. The one you link to doesn't have a joule rating listed, so slightly concerning unless you have separate surge protection?

If I was going to do this and didn't know how to terminate Ethernet cables and didn't have a big budget, I would get one of these plus two of these.

Put one surge protector at each end of the outdoor cable, and make sure the bolt hole in each surge protector is connected to an electrical ground with a good copper cable.

But it depends if you need something that is going to last a few months or if you need it to last multiple years.

i bought one of these and asked my aunt to bring it
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ETH-SP-External-Suppressor/dp/B00R20OIAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468508730&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+surge

but as u/Deccarin has said, might not be enough to stop such a huge amount of energy. I would have thought the wires on cat5 would be thin enough to burn out before transfering the surge, but i was obviously wrong.

If you go with copper, install lightning protection at each end of the cable, as close as possible to where it enters the building. Run a #14AWG or bigger copper ground wire from the protector to a suitable grounding place like an existing ground rod or a buried metal water pipe or a piece of rebar sticking up from a concrete foundation. Make the ground wire as short and as straight as practicable. Here's a cheap Ethernet surge suppressor. http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ETH-SP-External-Suppressor/dp/B00R20OIAY

Thanks. I didn't realize running ethernet cable outdoors, even when using outdoor grade cable, could be so risky. While I'm naturally getting the Unifi 8-150W switch for the main house, I'm reluctant to get another SFP switch for the lane way house - mostly for cost reasons. Besides the AP, I doubt I'd have more than 2 ethernet ports in that lane way, so an 8 port switch with SFP would be somewhat wasted with so much excess capacity.

As an alternative, could I just use ethernet surge protectors? Maybe on both ends? Oh look, Ubiquiti even sells PoE surge protectors too!

Check out something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ETH-SP-External-Suppressor/dp/B00R20OIAY/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00R20OIAY&pd_rd_r=JSB3GXVMAQA08DDBPP62&pd_rd_w=W9CCZ&pd_rd_wg=XGsVp&psc=1&refRID=JSB3GXVMAQA08DDBPP62

I wouldn't worry too much about it. But they do sell ethernet surge protectors.

Not sure what poe switch you have but you may want to try a different switch and use a POE injector/splitter as a test.
I use these with cheap tp-link switches...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DZLSRJC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also ... I power all my cams with a old Dell GX series power supply using those Injector/splitter and use a Ubiquiti Networks ETH-SP Poe External Surge Suppressor before the switch/injector.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R20OIAY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why ... we are on top of the ridge take a lot of lightning strikes near by.

I'm using this: APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 2880 Joules, SurgeArrest Home/Office (P11U2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ni6jDbYY7Z6QW

https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=surge+protector&qid=1566081991&s=gateway&sr=8-8
do you know if they'll let me bring this?


Also, do you know if they allow me to just bring two regular surge protectors? (I know these are fine to bring, i just dont know about the one i linked.)
I know you can't plug one into the other, but can I plug two separate ones on the wall outlet since there's two outlets?

https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/

I've decided to use this along with 2 of these

I also have an electrician coming to see about adding another wall outlet.

I'd suggest an APC battery backup as a surge suppressor. In my experience the Cyberpower battery backups are not great.

The thing to keep in mind is that the VA rating is not how many watts the battery backup can supply. I have a 1300VA unit for my desktop on my monitor and it can supply a max of ~800 watts. If you put your system specs into PCPartPicker you can get a rough idea of what you will need.

If you want to spend less and don't have a lot of power fluctuations /brown outs in your area you could get this APC surge protector.

fridge is rated at .85 amps at 115 volts, and this is the surge protector. My pc is actually just running old graphics cards that suck up a lot of power plus an overclocked cpu. i just launched a game and i was using 600 watts and i was only at 70% gpu usage and 60% cpu usage.

​

exactly what i have connected to the strip is my speakers 208mA, my dac and amp at 500mA, 8 watts; and 1500mA, 21 watts respectively, the fridge mentioned above, a phone charger (max 5V, 2 Amps), very small ethernet splitter with no label on it, and a 12 volt 3 amp usb hub. i was mistaken earlier, my monitors are actually connected to my ups not the strip. and at full load with all my monitors on, pc running at full speed, it will pull anywhere from 600 to 700 watts with occasionally around 850 if i also have my 3d printer connected to it.

I actually have all Ubiquiti hardware connected to an APC Surge Protector. The CloudKey G1 is being powered by Ubiquiti US-8-60W switch. No battery backups. I've experienced power outages this past winter, but no database corruption to my knowledge. I've never had to rebuild the controller, database, etc. Just been having the weird "missing microSD card" error completely randomly.

If you dont care about having the battery backup option, then I'd recommend this

I works well, I dont need an expensive battery backup for the xbox I own just want to protect it from strikes and bad weather.

If you need a UPS with a battery backup builtin then I linked one in my earlier replies you can still clickity click :D

This is the one:
Eaton 109420 Ultra Surge Protection 3Rd Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MLLDyb3GYA1SG

It might not solve a direct strike, but if the grid is hit, something like this might help

https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS

Into say...

https://www.amazon.com/ESP-Surge-Protector-Filter-Monitor/dp/B071P3P9XM

Power conditioner

Into say...

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK

Would keep stuff online

Thanks for all the information folks.

I have decided to go with a upper-end Type-2 unit from EATON, if anyone else is interested.

https://www.amazon.ca/Eaton-CHSPT2ULTRA-1-Phase-Whole-Protection/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468772994&sr=8-1&keywords=eaton+ultra+surge

Good article here as well:

http://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/10/whats-the-best-whole-house-surge-protection/

Don't sissy out on the whole home surge.

Get this

Coupled with this.

No it's not. I have a whole home one for close to $115.

EATON CHSPT2ULTRA Ultimate Surge Protection 3rd Edition, 2.38" Length, 5.25" Width 7.5" Height
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AQAKRSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sCW9BbXDCQ6XC

I just ordered one from Amazon since my local homedepot was sold out. Ended up getting the "Ultra" model. Was a bit more expensive, but it provides more protection too.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01AQAKRSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with whole house protection (plus decent power strips for the TV, AVR, etc. and a UPS for my server).

Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA

I use one of these. It's internet-connected, so you can set on/off times on an app and you can control all 4 outlets independently.

Use 1 timer and a power strip or do like I did and get a smart power strip so you can program each outlet for whatever you want.

Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Compatible-TECKIN-Multiple-Charging/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542469367&sr=8-4&keywords=wifi+power+strip

Yep I live my WiFi strip,

Smart Power Strip WiFi Power Bar 5ft  Extension Cord Compatible with Alexa,Echo,Google Home and IFTTT, TECKIN Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and Smart AC Plugs for Multi Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1Fy3CbBJMYKYR

just go with the canakit on Amazon ($60 to $80). They typically include a GOOD power supply. ($9 for just the ps)

do NOT cheap out on the pi power supply, or SD card.


octopi can work with USB webcams, which you can often find at thrift stores or rummage sale for cheap. I am using a PS3 (4?,) webcam on mine. found several for $1 to $5

the pi-cam is nice but getting it pointed where you need it to look can be a pain.

the Arducam $12 (and up) is a cheaper alternative to the official pi cam $25? But you may also want an extended camera ribbon cable. $10


I use the smartpi case for my pi that comes with a small case for the fragile camera. ($10, or so)

Building Block Compatible SmartiPi Raspberry Pi B+,2, 3, and Pi 3 B+ case w/Camera case and GoPro Compatible Mount - Blue https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00UDP0B06

and a cheap tripod you can print or buy to point the pi at the printer.

alternative (or extra) is to use a security cam like a Wyze Camera $25, and use that to monitor the printer.

I use both the pi-cam and wyze, from different directions to keep an eye on my printer.

the wyze can also be seen from your phone easily, and has a smoke detector feature.


if you want to get fancy, I have an Alexa enabled smart outlet, I can use to remotely power on and off the printer, cameras, and lights.

with some of these smart plugs, octopi can turn them on and off, which is nice, not sure if that works with this one.

Smart Power Strip WiFi Plug TECKIN Multiple Outlet Surge Protector USB Bar Remote Control Timing Schedule Compatible with Alexa Echo
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM3P87S/

I use the USB ports to power my pis. and each port, USB, and AC can be toggled individually

it's over kill. but handy.

----

good luck.

Makes sense. I used the smart plugs for nightlights and such throughout the house.

I think this is the power strip. https://www.amazon.com/TECKIN-Multiple-Protector-Bar，Remote-Compatible/dp/B07FM3P87S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=smart+power+strip&qid=1556247426&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I have my lights, circulation pump, and air pump on a timer. Works great.

Ah, didn't realize that zigbee didn't integrate directly with HA. I'm using these for my outlet needs. Wifi network sees it as one device so it's light on the network. I'm able to control each plug individually but the USB outlets are all or nothing. I haven't done so yet, but the plan is to reflash them with custom firmware. From what I heard, it's pretty easy.

Mechanicals are great, but my next timer is gonna be one of these. Seen a few other growers use them and they seem slick.

https://www.amazon.ca/Smart-Wi-Fi-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3

I use TPLink switches exclusively. I haven't tried their power strip but it seems to meet all your needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GX3E95CC7I6S&keywords=tplink+power+strip&qid=1557158291&s=gateway&sprefix=tplink+power+s%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-3

Fun gag gift portable speaker

Minimalist wallets are in style

This is my fav cologne

I love sushi so I would want this, good for a host

The best start to any smart house

The ultimate desk toy

If you really have no budget

I think I found it. But unfortunately the outlets aren't the ones I need. Otherwise, though, it's exactly what I want. Shame.

Some of the lightning protection devices have hefty earth connectors, for example: http://www.amazon.com/APC-PNET1GB-ProtectNet-Standalone-Protector/dp/B000BKUSS8

I assume this is to provide a more attractive path. In the case of the media converter solution you just need to ensure they have similar earth connections (or at least the 'upstream' one)

A good product to avoid outlet clutter and prevent one large plug from covering two slots.

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This is a concept design from Yanko design but is actually a concept that is very much real with similar products

Concept from Yanko Design: here

Similiar products available for purchase:

Aliexpress: here

Amazon: here

Amazon 2: here

Amazon 3: here

These are all slightly different products but seek to accomplish the same goal

I too am an AT&T ISP customer (U-verse). When you get it straightened out, install one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00805VUD8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Between the AT&T gateway and your router/switch. (Be sure to connect the ground wire) This way, if you get a surge or lightning strike, it only takes out AT&T's POS 2Wire gateway and not your good equipment.

The only real source is opening these up and knowing what you're looking at, which is the main reason companies take advantage of the "surge protector" marketing. It has no standards, so anyone can say that for anything. Here is an example of APC marketing a piece of plastic with a capacitors and wiring as a "surge protector" when it protects from very little. https://www.amazon.com/APC-11-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P11U2/dp/B017VXU6GG/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=apc&qid=1559167869&s=gateway&sr=8-10

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The price is the tell for general consumers, and lack of certain specifications is the tell for enthusiasts and electrical engineers.

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Lastly, that $250k insurance on that $30 piece is laughable, they will give you the runaround until you give up. There's no way they would ever pay that much for something connected to a $30 power strip.

Maybe https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Power-Strip-TP-Link/dp/B07G95FFN3&ved=2ahUKEwjOmKi7k9vjAhXuGTQIHd-nDmQQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw350S3raMLEutQwvj1ImLKw