(Part 2) Best computer hard drive enclosures according to redditors
We found 4,091 Reddit comments discussing the best computer hard drive enclosures. We ranked the 723 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/5.25-INCH Hard Drive Converter with Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC9)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41tN8MqL18L.jpg)
![Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA Dual Bay External Hard Drive Docking Station for 2.5 or 3.5in HDD, SSD with Hard Drive Offline Duplicator/Cloner Function [4TB Support] (EC-HDD2)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41JCK-VXHjL.jpg)
Specs: Raspberry Pi Zero W running Raspbian. I have a generic case that I found at Microcenter that came with a heat sync. Samba is installed for windows file sharing. Pi VPN is also installed for access from anywhere. Two hard drive enclosures form amazon with a few hard drives I had lying around: 1TB (left) and a 320GB (right). The fan is an Arctic Breeze Mobile and I also have a USB to Ethernet adapter. Everything is connected to a 7 hub Anker powered USB hub. The fan is probably overkill but whatever, it looks cool.
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Guides I followed to get it all up and running:
How To Geek: How to Turn a Raspberry Pi into a Low-Power Network Storage Device
Combining the two different hard drives to appear as one
Setting up OpenVPN with PiVPN
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Edit: Added Amazon links - I didn't buy everything from amazon but this is easiest. Some things aren't the exact ones shown but close enough.
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Edit Edit: Added links to the guides I followed
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Edit\^3: Thank you all for the support and my first Gold! I didn't think this would get as much support as it has gotten! :)
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Last Edit hopefully: I apologize I called it a "Cloud" Server. It has stirred up some debate on whether or not it is. I called it a "cloud" server because I can access it from anywhere.
IF you have a standard SATA hard drive in the laptop (and as a last resort), you could remove the hard drive and plug it into one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Hot-Swap-External-Docking-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS
Please note--once you plug the hard drive into the enclosure, turn on the power and connect it via USB to another computer, it can take a REALLY long time for the disk to show up on the second computer. Once it does, you should be able to copy any important files from the disc.
Sorry for your loss.
Any brand will do in PS4 because PS4 OS is not optimized for SSD. (xbox is different, I think you will get better speeds from better drives) However, one of the best ones is on sale for only $57 today: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E250B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537193972&sr=1-3&keywords=250gb+ssd
That's actually an internal drive, so you'd still need to buy an external enclosure to put it in, this is the one I bought (it comes with a USB cable so no need to buy that separately):
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1537194248&sr=1-4&keywords=external+enclosure+2.5
The installation is easy. If you've ever put a Nintendo cartridge into a Nintendo then you have the skills necessary to install the drive into the enclosure. After that, plug in the cable, and google where in the ps4 menu to format the drive as external storage (I forget off the top of my head). Then, highlight Destiny 2 on ps4, press "Options", then select move to external storage. It took about 15 mintues for me. Then it was all ready!
You can buy a hard drive caddy to replace the unneeded cd drive and have a 2nd internal hard drive in your laptop. Amazon Has them for 10 bucks. In my laptop I Have a SSD for my OS and have a 1Tb in the cd drive for movies, music & pics.
This setup includes:
And here are the things I used to build it:
In my experience some of them do support it, in fact I think the one we use at the shop for that purpose is actually the same one from the show.
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
You could pay someone to try and recover what they can from it, or you can buy a https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Hot-Swap-External-Docking-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS and take out the laptop harddrive and plug it into that USB hard drive dock. It essentially just turns any laptop/desktop hard-drive into an external hard-drive. I've had to do that before to save some projects from a dying hard drive.
Worst case scenario, you don't get any of your projects back, and you can think of it as a fresh start. I've had to do that before, and it was very freeing. It feels shitty at first, but at least in my case, it was a huge boon to my productivity when I didn't have a bunch of subconscious guilt/weight from not finishing certain projects.
Alternatively, if you have an extra PCIe slot, you can probably use an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525983455&sr=8-5&keywords=m.2+pcie+adapter
And since it maxes out a 1000mb/s, a PCIe gen 2 slot would be fine too.
The T5 was actually Samsung's first drive with their 64-layer TLC, which is also used in the 860 EVO and the last revision of the 850 EVO. It also uses the dual-core MGX controller found on the smaller SKUs of the 850 EVO. This is coupled with the ASMedia ASM235CM bridge chip which is found in many SATA-to-USB3.1 Gen 2 enclosures (example) as opposed to the older ASM1351 found on some cheaper adapters (example). So it's a solid device all-around but, yes, you could DIY.
Your ssd uses a sata power cable which you are holding in this picture for power, and a sata cable for transferring data. You can see two of your sata cables in this picture, one orange and one blue. Both of them are in use, so you will need to get another sata cable and it will plug into either of the open ports to the right of the orange and blue cable. As for mounting the ssd, the easiest thing to do would be get something like this. You will screw the ssd into this adapter, and now it will fit like a normal sized hard drive in the top right slot of you case.
Love the trash can but adding external stuff to it is a pain the ass. It's so nice and sleek, but in the real world when you connect ethernet, headphones, monitors and USB it begins to look like a porcupine.
I sorta solved the problem by using bare 3.5-inch drives with a Mediasonic ProBox 8 Bay. Works fine with USB 3.0. I keep it all in an open cabinet behind the desk, but my desk is not against a wall.
In my original setup with it, I put the Trashcan and the ProBox behind the monitor with a desktop speaker on either side. I have an LG monitor with a built-in USB hub, so that helped with wiring. Everything was pretty neat, but I ended up with a fairly shallow desk area. It was OK 'cause I like to be close to the monitor anyway.
There is a device you can get that converts an internal to an external via a USB cable and a powercord. I have one at home from needing to pull off old files. They are pretty cheap.
Here is one for $22.99, I've got a startech version I believe.
I went with this Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD.
And this Orico adapter.
It works phenomenally. Cut all of my load times in half, and intra-instance load times are nonexistent.
Highly recommend it.
Keep an eye on r/buildapcsales. The SSDs they post are generally good but you'd need to buy an external closure for a couple bucks. This drive combined with this enclosure are a good deal for less than $60.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
I have three of these Rosewill RSV-8 but it looks like most places are out of stock on them, so this listing is for used ones.
It's a basic 8bay external eSATA case with external powersupply. One caveat: this requires TWO eSATA connections (different from the MediaSonic externals) and your eSATA controller needs to support Port Multipliers (RSV-8 comes with a nice little PCI-E sii two port eSATA controller, so no worries). Standard motherboard eSATA ports do not typically support port multiplication.
I also have two Mediasonic H82-SU3S2 (note, this is the JBOD version, not the RAID version) and they are better than the Rosewill enclosures. They support all eight drives on a single eSATA cable, support a USB3 connection, and have tunable fan speeds on the enclosure (low/med/high/auto). I can't remember if this one includes a PCI-E controller or not. I think it does but I'm not 100%.
I use them with linux/ZFS and they haven't given me any reason to complain. I like the Mediasonic ones a little better because of the variable fan speeds and single eSATA cable, but you can make a case for having two eSATA cables if your data use is very high (mine is not).
Highly unlikely that your internal hard drive itself was damaged.
Before giving up hope or getting rid of the laptop, take it out and connect it with a cheap SATA adapter to another computer. Try Google for more tips.
edit - here's a link to the one I have. it's rarely used, but valuable when needed. definitely money well spent:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQJME7Y
there are even cheaper ones too, I got this one because it can connect to SATA (modern connector) and also IDE (older connection type that started getting phased out around the year 2000). most people don't have a need for the IDE option
Your best option will probably be to get some sort of adapter that will let you hook the laptop drive up to your PC (or new laptop) via USB. There are hard drive docks that support both desktop and laptop sized HDs that are very easy to use, such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG
Or, there are cheaper options such as this adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S
Once you hook your old drive up with something like that, you can just copy your files over like copying from any other folder on your PC to another. Good luck!
Don't use tapes. Disks are cheap. Get something like this. 2TB is a tiny amount of data. 4TB drives are out!
Then you should be able to use windows backup or any other cheap/free backup package.
It depends on where you're going and what shots you want.
Are you planning to go to Udawalawe? If so, your kit lens will do for the most part, but do bring a telephoto to get some of the wildlife shots esp. the birds. Depending on the guide and timing, you can actually get pretty damn close to the elephants for example: http://i.imgur.com/fhtcL6z.jpg. However, there are other things like birds you can't really get without a telephoto.
For example, if you're going to Polonnaruwa and want to take shots of the monkeys, you need a telephoto. You don't want to get very close to these bastards despite them being used to people and coming pretty close to people. I have a bunch of shots from here, but these are not on my phone unfortunately, so can't upload them. edit: Found a few more pics: http://imgur.com/a/eqEg1
Pic 3 - I wish I had a fast zoom. You can clearly see the issues with the image in low light. This + bad tripod + no IS (older kit lens) on the lens = bad time.
Pic 4 - Frescos are pretty cool and there were places where I couldn't get multiple of them in to one shot like I wanted. A wide angle would help. I can imagine a few cool macro shots of the frescos as well, but I wasn't really able to do that due to equipment limitations.
For landscape hots of say Polonnaruwa or Sigiriya or Mackwoods other places, you definitely should go with a wide angle. The Canon 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM is under $300 and probably your best bet when it comes to price vs performance. It's by no mean the absolute best wide angle lens, but it's pretty cheap and offer good performance.
Your f2.8/1.8s will come in very handy, especially if you want to take inside shots of say the Dalada Maligawa. I really wished I had a fast lens when I went.
Also, if you're going to the Peradeniya Botanical Garden, either bring a macro lens or extension tubes. You may also want to invest in a GoPro (or a Xiaomi Yi, make sure you get a real one and not a counterfeit). I wished I had a GoPro or similar action cam to record say the ascend/descend for Sigiriya.
And bring LOTS of batteries AND a DC to AC car inverter in the 100-200W range so you can charge your stuff on the go. My relatives told me to bring this, and it was invaluable while traveling to charge my camera batteries, laptop and phone. I used this one: http://smile.amazon.com/Outlets-Inverter-Charging-Smartphones-Tablets/dp/B004MDXS0U/
DO bring a laptop and external HDD/SSD for backing up. I would personally go with a 500GB or larger SSD now as things can get rough on a HDD while traveling. I had 2x500GB SSDs (swapped out DVD RW to 2nd HDD cage see: http://www.smile.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA/, make sure you get the right sized one) on my laptop, and had an 2TB HDD. Backed up photos/videos to both of these.
Things I wish I brought:
Source: Been there, done that. Spent about 4ish weeks in June/July. Traveled to Udawalawe, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, Mackwoods and Peradeniya. I didn't spend a lot of time in the big cities like Colombo, so can't really comment on cityscape stuff. I traveled with my aunts, cousins, uncles, etc who live/lived in Sri Lanka so they knew their way around stuff which made it a lot easy to get to places. PM me or ask here if you have any questions.
Well, that's a lot longer than I expected... hope this helps OP!
Sure as long as it's SATA. Some older laptops have IDE connectors that need a converter but if you're using it right now and don't want to throw it out the window on a daily basis you're probably not using one.
If you're worried about it moving around you can find mounting kits to hold it in a 3.5" drive bay. These are more common and cheaper nowadays with SSDs. [Something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A) should work.
First: Avoid the J-series Synology units. All J-series are meant to be cost-reduced, low power units, typically based on ARM processors. They will perform rather poorly, and be completely useless for any kind of video editing applications.
>So when I get a NAS, what can I expect?
Lower performance than USB 3, but greater convenience because all your devices can access it simultaneously. You're going to want your computer and the NAS to be on the same Ethernet switch. Don't even think about doing anything serious over Wifi.
>Would it be a good idea?
Yes and no. Yes, in that it could make a great backup target, and a handy way of storing non-video content for live use, like music libraries.
>How is performance when connected to a network?
Depends on the NAS and the network. As I just finished writing up over here the rest of the traffic on the network can play a role in limiting performance, and the functional capacity of the NAS itself also plays a very key role in whether or not it can keep up with what you demand out of it.
>Is it totally doable for live editing or is it best connected directly to my PC via USB 3?
Maybe. Depends on the footage you're working with. Unless you're getting a higher end model, know how to tinker with these things, and you're not working with like gonzo 4K footage it might work out, but USB 3 will deliver far superior performance, and it would be recommended you continue to work off something like this.
>I'm less concerned about RAID... I'm really only doing this so I can have multiple drives using one power cable.
No, you're getting involved with RAID, so you need to be concerned about RAID. I have a write-up in the Wiki about RAID that gives you a sort of 10-foot perspective on the thing. The RAID tech you invest in will determine how you move forward in the coming years in terms of data protection and storage growth.
And if all you care about is the power cord then you're getting into this for the wrong reasons. IF that's all you care about you could get a DAS solution. You could go with just a simple dual disk dock, or a dumb 'ole JBOD enclosure, or get some kind of real RAID solution, either by buying a card and building an array inside your computer or in some kind of external enclosure, or by buying a device that handles RAID internally and exposes itself to the computer as a single dumb disk.
>Currently looking into these two models:
Keep in mind that those are dual-disk models, which limits you to RAID0 and RAID1. This is quite limiting in terms of options, and in terms of volume. However upgrading capacity is cheap, since you only have two disks to replace (however this is only possible in RAID1, and impossible in RAID0 unless you've got enough external storage lying around).
If the hard drive isn't encrypted couldn't he just load the drive into a toaster and get the files ? As long as its connected to another Mac.
edit: Or if its the stick ssd use one of these https://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC ?
Your motherboard does not have an M.2 slot on it.
You can buy a PCI-E x4 M.2 adapter that fits the 500GB Samsung EVO 970 plus (like this one https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pci-e+m.2+adapter&qid=1562715160&s=gateway&sr=8-4), but it requires a PCI-E x4 slot.
Your motherboard has four PCI-E x1 slots (won't fit) and two PCI-E x16 slots (it will fit in this slot but only if you have one free -- i.e. you don't have two video cards).
If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, consider getting a regular old boring SATA III SSD. True, they aren't as fast as NVMe SSDs, but this is $30 cheaper (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500GB+samsung+evo+SSD&qid=1562715888&s=gateway&sr=8-3) and for gaming you actually won't notice much of a difference compared to the NVMe drive you spec'ed. NVMe gives you bigger performance boosts when reading/writing large blocks of sequential data, so for example video editing. Source: https://www.online-tech-tips.com/computer-tips/sata-3-vs-m-2-vs-nvme-overview-and-comparison/
This is what I picked up from Amazon, works amazing! Just plug it in, transfer D2 over, bye bye loading times!
Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
ORICO 2.5 USB 3 External Hard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY97QE8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
My brother did the same thing expect he got this SSD.
Silicon Power 512GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP512GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMvYBbPRF3NPX
Depending on the model you could probably just open the enclosure and put the drive in a new enclosure like this
In mine, I replaced the DVD drive with one of these.
I then dropped a spare 120GB SSD in there for the OS.
I have two systems running FreeNAS in this configuration (120GB SSD for the OS, 2x3TB drives for storage, 10gbps Intel Fiber NIC in the open PCI-E slot)
Willing to bet that "10TB HARD DISK DRIVE" refers to the max capacity hard drive it can support, since that's the typical maximum capacity of an enclosure.
I only remember because I was looking at this one recently. The terminology it uses is somewhat similar, though it specifies that it is the enclosure only in the details.
Here you go.
PCPartPicker Part List
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $329.00 @ B&H
Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $124.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $0.00
Video Card | XFX - Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB Video Card | $399.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $84.85 @ Walmart
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $91.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1145.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-11 19:45 EDT-0400 |
Breakdown:
The R7 3700X is very close to the performance of the i7 9700K, but with double the amount of threads, which should be very handy for gaming while streaming (8c/16t is better than 8c/8t). And it already comes with an impressive stock Wraith Prism RGB cooler, so there is no need for an liquid cooler.
The B450 Tomahawk is a mobo with VRMs good enough to even handle a 16 core 32 thread R9 3950X, provided you have ample airflow. So something like an R7 3700X will be perfectly fine. The B450 has the USB BIOS Flashback feature, which allows you to update your BIOS without having to have CPU and RAM installed. All you need is a flash drive.
Here's 2x16GB of 3200MHz CL16 RAM.
I included the SSD and HDD you already have into the build, saving you an easy $100+. I decided not to include the SSDnow V300, since its specs are not so great. Please use the WD Blue SSD as your boot drive, and just convert the SSDnow V300 into an external SSD or something.
I swapped in the RX 5700 XT, since it offers the same level of performance as an RTX 2070 Super/GTX 1080 Ti/Radeon VII/RTX 2080 for only $400.
Here's a the Meshify C. A good quality PC case with great airflow thanks to its front mesh.
Here's a 650W Gold PSU. 550W Gold would have been more than enough, but I chose the 650W since it seems you may be interested in overclocking later down the line.
Additional Notes:
Consider waiting for aftermarket RX 5700 XTs to come out in mid-August so you'll benefit from much better cooling and much lower noise.
Consider waiting for the RTX 2080 Super to come out. It will have better performance than the RTX 2080 for $700.
More often than not the header unit dies but drive is fine especially if it whirs and sounds normal. Don’t spend a lot of money on recovery services or random software.
Shuck it to remove the HDD then buy a suitable (likely SATA) enclosure or even just a cable and transfer normally.
Example: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B06XWRRMYX/
As someone who has used an SSD since the option for external drives was added. (I grabbed one out of an old laptop) It does make a difference in some games. But it doesn't matter what drive you get. Just get whatever you can find that's cheap. I've had the best luck using this enclosure.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Supported-Compatible/dp/B06XWRRMYX/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=usb+c+3.1+gen+2+enclosure&qid=1567783860&s=gateway&sr=8-2
First thing that popped up on amazon searching “3.1 gen 2 usb c enclosure”
I keep a hard drive dock around.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1395113721&sr=8-11&keywords=hard+drive+dock
Of course, they were cheaper back then...
I agree with /u/IRBMe - the culprit is most likely the hard drive. like he said, the CPU/GPU don't throttle performance unless they are overheating and RAM either works or fails with blue screens, but an aging HDD will definitely sow things down. changing the paste won't make any difference.
Another thing to check on is your mobo and graphics drivers.. outdated or incorrect drivers can cause some major slowdowns too.
Go SSD! it will be faster than ever before, cooler, and less noisy. 128 or 250 gb is enough for windows and a host of progs, and if you need more disk space but don't wanna splurge on a 500gb or 1tb SSD, look into getting an "optical drive bay SSD/HDD caddy" - it replaces the DVD drive (which is rarely use for most folks) with a HDD or SSD of your choice.
for instance in my laptop i replaced the HDD with a 128gb SSD (big performance boost for the old girl), and then installed the old 500gb HDD in the drive caddy as a secondary for more storage. (after a good format, of course) If the rare occasion arises that i need to read or burn a dvd, i just pop out the caddy and slide the dvd drive back in temporarily.
One time I had Windows (XP or 7 can't remember) randomly trash an Ubuntu partition. Since then I have always kept the two OS's on separate drives. It's easy to do on a desktop. On a laptop, I get an adapter to let me keep a second drive in the DVD drive compartment. Then I make sure the computer boots to the ubuntu drive and re-grub it so it can add the windows OS option to the grub boot menu.
Regarding your concerns, most enclosures are designed to be on 24/7, so that shouldn't be an issue. Most enclosures have built in fans, and as long as ambient temperature isn't too crazy that should be plenty.
As far as different drive speeds, it can be an issue, but as far as I'm aware it only really matters when you get into high drive counts. Most companies that provide enterprise grade storage won't honor a warranty if you had mixed drive speeds. All that said, I've done it in both desktop and rackmount enclosures without issue.
The only enclosures I have had a good experience with are from MediaSonic, so they're the only ones I'd be comfortable recommending. They only have 4 and 8 bay ones, though, so it might not fit the bill. Here's the link in any case.
Let me pop in and help.
/u/xlltt was linking you to Amazon.de, but the same product is sold in the US under another name. You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/
That said, there are cheaper USB 3.0 options out there. Unless you also need the ESATA port for some reason, this is a much more cost effective option. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TowerRAID-TR8U-8-Bay-SATA-to-USB-3-0-JBOD-Enclosure-Silver-/142272687212?hash=item21201cec6c:g:8AcAAOSwcUBYQG8c
Mediasonic has eight bay usb/sata enclosure, not cheap though.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG
Under $250 with controllers? Maybe buy two of the MediaSonic Probox strip them down and use some fancy wood to attach them together. You get USB3 and ESATA and Linux compatibility. A handleful of screws to hold the whole thing togehter and you have a make-shift 8bay. I have 4 of these stacked 2 x 2 at home. Works great! There's an 8-bay version too but I think you could make something pretty awesome with the $70 in savings and 2 of the 4-bay ones.
I've never seen a 3.5" SSD, they come basically in three formats: 2.5", M.2, and PCI-E. You would need to get a standard SATA 2.5" SSD and an adapter like this to mount an SSD to a 3.5" bay.
Samsung makes really good SSDs, their EVO lineup is the "go to" to most people. About the software, you can always use something like Clonezilla, but the solution that comes with the SSD would be good enough too, as Clonezilla isn't exactly the most user-friendly program out there.
Also, don't forget to check if you already have,. or if the SSD comes with a SATA data cable, otherwise you would need to get one (like this, they come in different sizes, connectors, colours, etc., but they work the same).
I haven't actually mounted it, but if it says it should be mounted in an SSD tray and you have a 3.5" one, you can use one of these.
I would replace it. You can get a nice 960GB internal SSD for <$100 plus $6.00 for the bracket.
I had a drive failure once back in like 2004, and was back up and running with all data intact in two hours, one of them having been the Windows XP reinstall. DVD burners FTW!
Nowadays I have two options. I have one of these, and they are awesome, BTW - just shove a regular internal SATA hard drive into it and poof, instant high-speed external drive. I have a 750GB drive I use as an external backup. I also have a BD-ROM burner that can stick 25 gigs on a dual-layer, single-sided 120cm disc. 50 gigs if it's double-sided.
If it's at all important to you, back that shit up.
Mental note - I'm about due to update my backup set. Might be a good thing to do this weekend.
I think it depends what hardware you currently have and what kind of storage (hot or cold) you want.
If you have a laptop, 4TB external drive is about $100, probably the easiest. Keep it simple, plug and play when you want it.
If you have a desktop and can throw another hard drive into it, then WD 4TB Red for about $120. I think the 4TB is the sweet spot in terms of $/GB.
If you're doing more of a cold storage, ie backup every once in awhile, otherwise the drive is disconnected/in a drawer somewhere, I'd personally go for a hard drive dock. Something like this or this. And then again pick up a 4TB WD Red for $120.
Those last two solutions are over $100, but if you're transitioning to a desktop or looking to do a more substantial NAS setup in the near future, it's a fairly cheap solution that allows you hoarding capabilities now that can be expanded to a solid 4-bay NAS box without issue, later. With the external (unless shuckable) you'll have to start over again, drive-wise, to fill that 4-bay NAS box.
This is a ide drive, not a sata one. You need a motherboard with a ide connector(rare) or a sata to ide adapter(often has issues) or a pcie to ide card(kinda pricy and uses a slot). Or get a usb adapters
You also need a laptop ide to a desktop adapter as they were different connectors.
If you need the data best hope is a data recovery service, but there not cheap.
if you want to try on your own, this is your cheapest best option.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y
Not necessarily. Reasonably priced devices such as this make it very possible:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQJME7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523222402&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=sabrent+usb+sata+ide&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31j2YPI9CfL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yes, the 8.1 machine will be able to see the contents of the hard drive, it might take a while for your laptop to access all the files. It does a permissions sweep and takes ownership of the files, AFAIK.
If it's about 3 years old I wouldn't use the drive as your only back up, it could crap out on you at any moment.
Enclousures are a doddle, look at the retailer reviews before you buy.
Here are some good scoring ones.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419726701&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet%C2%AE-External-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation/dp/B00DCEECKU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419726719&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure+usb+3
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ORICO-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00BH83LYG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419726719&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure+usb+3
250gb SSD's work, i have the latest Samsung 250gb SSD in this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DW374W4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Fallout 4 load times are alot quicker IMO as thats the game i have on it currently. Also on Black Ops 3 multiplayer you load into the game way before anyone else. i get 15 seconds countdowns before the game starts.
Edit: this is the SSD i use.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P736UEU?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01
PSA: You can buy a 7200 RPM HDD and then buy a USB enclosure for it.
Buy This and put it in this or this.
You can also buy SSD enclosures as well. Now the downside to the enclosures is usually you have to plug them in, so if you were looking for a portable harddrive that was powered over USB you're SOL in this department.
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453603870&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hard+drive+toaster
does that not look like a toaster? All the DIT guys I work with call them that.
Anything on Amazon like this and here's a guide for you to swap it out. It's super simple.
If you want to clone the HDD you have now because you have games and stuff you don't want to delete I would suggest to buy a HDD cloner. Its really easy and I've done it multiple times for just cloning when I did upgrades.
Personal note: $139 for 1tb SSD was like $500 back when it released. I don't even think if they had 1TB SSD. Crazy. If I wasn't already at 1TB I would buy, but I'm going to just wait for the PS5.
You're probably looking for something like this Just search hard drive dock and you'll see a bunch of other ones as well.
Get yourself an HDD dock
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00N1KXE9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1499868239&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=hard+drive+dock
Then just build some storage slots for your spare drives and use them like flash drives
If you have access to 2 m.2 ports on your laptop, you can plug both in, and use the samsung data migration software to clone everything over, if not and you have a friend or family member that has a PC with 2 m.2 drives, you're golden. However if you dont have access to any of those, you can snag an external m.2 enclosure. I linked the enclosure and software below.
https://www.samsung.com/semiconductor/minisite/ssd/download/tools/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8F298Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9HNLBbTVPSEX1
You can pick up two of these and turn the 3.5" drive bays into dual 2.5" drive bays.
You can get something like this if you want to mount it where a 3.5 drive would go. This one is super cheap and lets you fit 2x SSD's in a 3.5 drive slot.
You would probably have zero issues mounting it with velcro, too.
Solid State Drive, it is many times faster than your hdd, (Hard Disk Drive), and it WILL make your computer feel many times faster.
Edit: Your motherboard doesn't have a M.2 slot, so you will have to get a Sata SSD (Such as the WD Blue or the Samsung 860 Evo)
Edit 2: You could get a M.2 to PCIe adapter and a decent NVMe SSD (Such as the Intel 660p), this is by far the best option.
This is SATA drive so it doesn't use PCIe but requires a SATA connection
M.2 to 2.5" works
M.2 to PCIe doesn't work
M.2 SATA to PCIe works but requires connecting the bundled cable to one of your motherboard's SATA ports.
If you have a pcie slot open, there are pcie to m.2 adapters you can get for $15
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "$15"
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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
I just use one I pulled out of my broken laptop. Bought an enclosure for it on Amazon, like this.
Just FYI, in case you find another device that doesn't need its storage anymore! Otherwise I'd just pick up a Seagate or WD 2TB HDD or similar.
If you're not using the DVD the system came with, replace it with one of these.
Would this be worth pairing with a hard drive enclosure to work as an XB1 hard drive?
Looks like with the $5 discount and the the enclosure, it would total $70 before tax. So it would be 7,200 RPMs speed using this bulkier setup vs. $86 for a 5,400 Game Drive that has the same storage capacity. I have no idea if it would need some type of formatting or would be plug and play though. But a cheaper price and better performance along with a free PC game is hard to pass up.
Your best bet may be to buy a drive and an enclosure instead. 2tb is pretty small nowdays and so is usually a 2.5" as far as I know. By buying an enclosure you can use it for other external drives later too. Note, that 3.5" drives almost always require external power so be sure to budget the space for the power supply.
An example Amazon Basics enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G/
Get a cheap hard drive enclosure like this one and connect it via USB.
Edit: just saw that you said it was external; if it's already in an enclosure (that's got a sata connector instead of USB for some reason) you could get a sata-to-usb converter like this one if you don't want to take the hard drive out of whatever it's already in.
I had gotten fed up with the load times on my OneX. Decided to purchase this SanDisk SSD, and this USB 3.0 enclosure. Just put SSD inside the enclosure, then when you plug it into the Xbox it'll ask you to format the drive for games. I moved SoT over and have loved the amazing load times.
Not quite sure I follow. I bought this with an enclosure, so it’s used externally. You just plug it into your XB, format it (it walks you thru this as soon as you plug it in) and then just transfer the game over.
Edit: read your edit. Yeah, you need to buy an enclosure. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2n7PBb6VZR5NY
OP, before you spend 1,200ish on fixing the drive, try researching this little tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1KXE9K
Read the reviews, lots of people say they used it on crashed hard drives. You'll need a HDD of the same capacity, but you might be able to borrow one from a friend, or might have one just lying around. Couldn't hurt to try at a cost of $40 shipped vs the 1,200 quoted.
Honestly, IDE drives are so out of date you're not going to find any larger products like that which supports it. The best you can hope for is an adapter that does a single IDE drive like this: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-30504-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000UO6C5S/
Honestly, if it were me, I'd move that data to another drive, and then trash them and get something like this for sata drives: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Function-Tool-Free-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/
I use Samba on my Pi, but there are plenty of other ways to set up a NAS, such as NFS. You don't really need something like unRAID or FreeNAS for a NAS.
You can have a SATA dock(something like this) to hook it up those drives to your Pi. I use my Pi primarily for music, and I just use the SD card, since I don't have any spare drives lying around. I find it to be enough for my purposes, but I'm not sure if a Pi is powerful enough for what you want. I think you should try it and see how it works out.
Easy. Hard drive toaster.
I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
They work pretty well
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509744361&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=m2+enclosure&amp;dpID=41iTLM0Vw6L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I saw this Startech I'm going to pick up soon. You'll have to make sure that you match your key to your adapter since there's a few flavors available.
startech adapter
Buy a usb cradle for the m.2. Make sure you get the correct type. If you don't know what type you have then Google is your friend. Put the new drive in the cradle and plug it into a usb 3 port. Boot to your favorite cloning application and clone the old drive to the new one. Install the new drive and Bob's your uncle you're done.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-SSD-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
Sure adapters for those exist. One such adapter is here.
I have seen adapters that let you put nVME ssd in them. But that will be a bit pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-SSD-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y $26 + the price of the actual M.2 Drive.
But I can only think of a few Flash Drives I have had go bad.. and normally that was after they went through the clothes washer..
Oh, a fun topic! \^^
What I did was I got one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T8F298Y
Then I used dd on another computer the clone the old drive to the new one.
You just need enough space to temporarily hold the copy of your old drive.
Then I used gparted off a bootable Linux USB to resize/move the partitions.
You won't need gparted if you only have Windows on your drive. In that case, you'll just need Disk Management.
The whole process didn't take very long. I hope this method can work for you! \^^
Oh, nothing special. I mispurchased an M.2 instead of an mSATA (yeah yeah they're technically the same, but one has those holes on the side and the other in the middle):
SSD: https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B00LBDJZBA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Enclosure:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00T8F298Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I highly recommend the enclosure. The SSD is also great, but a long one also fits the enclosure and are usually cheaper for the same performance.
Great job brother! Here's a fucking gold star!
But seriously... do yourself a favor
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_2/145-1705504-7255064?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=G28Z4TAD8DXEVZ6AR8QP
Yes:
Dual SSDs: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0/
Single SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Bracket-SNANSHI-Adapter-Holder/dp/B0183FSG68/
"Pretend" HDD: https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Adapter-Mounting-Bracket-Interface/dp/B01LZWX6PD/
Stylish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ELRRKW8/
You need a Mounting Bracket for 2.5 disc's
Edit : something like that
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543449435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=2.5+to+3.5+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41VONF-bKnL&amp;ref=plSrch
I used these to mount 2 x 2.5" drives in mine. Technically you could get 2 of these and properly mount 4 SSD's in a r210. For ~$7/ea and minimal effort, it was worth it to me.
However, just laying the drives inside or using double sided tape will work too.
EDIT: I also bought 2 of these, but it will be another 4-6 weeks before they come in. The plan was to mount the boot drive I'm this. I had considered using another of those 2 2.5 to 3.5" adapter, so I could technically mount 5 drives. A 128GB boot drive, and 4 525GB SSD's in a ZFS RAID10. I really don't need that much space in these boxes.
You would need a PCIe dock, they run about $200 like this, and a m.2 to PCIe size adapter, another $15 like this, and then you need a machine that has a thunderbolt port to use that dock.
Edited
> SSD is overkill for the OS drive but will likely be more reliable than USB sticks.
I've actually started using PCIe m.2 adapter with a 32gb m.2 SSD for a total of like 40 bucks its so much more reliable than a USB stick and it doesn't take up a storage slot.
Oh damn you have a lot of drives. There are PCIE-m.2 adapters you can look into those. Or if you're willing to spend money there are PCIE-NVME drives.
ORICO Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure for 2.5 Inch SATA HDD and SSD - USB 3.0 Micro B [SSD UASP SATA III Optimized] - Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY97QE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9L.4Ab5GQTX2Q
Try something like this.
Use this one for my drives. I chose this one after looking at every model on Amazon for the reviews and specs also. Enjoy
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Support-Tool-Free/dp/B01LY97QE8/
This is what I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/ - Drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY97QE8/ - Enclosure
No tools needed. Just pop the drive in the enclosure and plug it into the xbox.
Usually about $9, I think, so this is still a decent sale if you want to pick one up. Regular price:
Though yeah, it has hit this price before:
$15.99 is definitely not the "regular price" in practice, to no surprise.
Ugh. May you HDD rest in peace.
But it should be fairly easy to replace the HDD with a new 2.5" drive, which aren't too expensive now a days^[1] ^[2], or swap out the CD-drive (if it has one) with a 2.5" drive as well (with a converter like this one).
But if you don't want to spend any money on it at all, I would suggest installing an Linux distro on a USB drive and use it run something like pihole
This cable adapter or PCB adapter might be what you're looking for. I'm surprised that I couldn't find a male slimline to female SATA cable on Amazon. If you're removing a CD Drive, then you could use a CD drive caddy. Make sure that you measure you CD drive to see if it's 9.5mm or 12.7mm as the caddy that I linked will only fit a 9.5mm CD drive slot.
You’ll need a SATA 3.5” to USB caddy/enclosure like this one from Amazon.
If you have a 2016 or later MacBook Pro you’ll also need a USB-C to USB-A adapter for the caddy I linked.
Yeah your best bet would be a 3.5" hard drive enclosure with external power supply. Something like this. That's just the easiest one I could find, but they're available from places like Best Buy too, and countless other places online and off, as they're a common, inexpensive part.
What specs are you looking for? This is a 500gb drive with a 16mb cache that can run at 7200RPM. It's read and write speeds are that of a run-of-the-mill mechanical hard drive. This is basically a drive you would use for a basic computer setup, an addon to an SSD setup, or as a backup drive. If you bought this drive used, then there's a possibility it could be slower than when brand new.
If you want to use it without plugging into your pc using the SATA ports on your motherboard, then you can by a dock or hard drive enclosure that you will be able to plug into your computer via USB.
Here is an example of a dock you can use:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Docking-Station-DS-UBLK/dp/B00IKAQ538
Here is an example of an enclosure:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G
Rather then cloning, I'd suggest just starting from scratch. You can stick your old hard drive into a usb-enclosure and still have access to your files.
Starting from scratch means you get a clean slate - any random old issues your computer had don't get moved over to the new hard drive.
you can with something like this (doesn't need to be this exact one)
To try and be helpful, you can remove the hard drive from the laptop and place it in to a hard drive enclosure and pull any and all files off of it that way. It will take you 30 minutes (search youtube the make and model of your laptop + the words hard drive removal) MAX.
Then all you would need is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G/
Any computer store can take care of this for likely less than $100. Do not take it to Best buy. But honestly, if you can use a screw driver, you can remove the hard drive.
Hope all turns out OK in the end for you guys.
Something like this would work https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=hdd+enclosure&qid=1557002480&s=gateway&sr=8-4
What do you mean by SATA enclosure? SATA enclosures are like this. Unless you mean HDD drive bay?
apart from the sata to usb, you will need an external power supply. Usb does not provide enough power for those hdds. if you are planing on keeping it as a permanent secondary drive, i suggest you buy a case for it. or a sata to usb with additional power supply.
Hmm it might be able to, but if it does it'll be very tight. I don't have a 3.5" drive around to test unfortunately.
Edit: Worst comes to worst you can get one of these external enclosures for your hdd.
They are compatible. XBOX just has the external USB connectors supporting USB 3. I am not sure if PS4 external USB is USB 3.
&#x200B;
Just looked it up, looks like any USB 3.0 enclosure will work:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/kevinmurnane/2017/09/11/how-to-connect-an-external-hard-drive-to-your-ps4/#6f4cba0146ec
&#x200B;
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Enclosure on Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542660651&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=usb+3.0+enclosure&psc=1
&#x200B;
SSD on Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-512GB-layer-Flash-Internal/dp/B07D9686LD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542660693&sr=8-5&keywords=internal+ssd+512gb
&#x200B;
Not sure about that model of SSD, never used one of those, I bought this:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072R78B6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yup, something like this;
https://www.amazon.com.au/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX
You may have to get creative with opening the existing case and pulling the hdd out but it'll slot straight into the new one.
Nothing else has worked, so I bought this adapter so I can try and format the ssd on my mac
I did this too and it's night and day.
You will not regret it.
Just get a decent 256gb ssd (make sure it's 256 and not 250 or 240), and an enclosure and you're good.
It should work. Had a Toshiba hdd as well and had no problems.
I would try to buy a case like this and connect it to your Xbox.
https://www.amazon.ae/gp/aw/d/B06XWRRMYX/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
If you need recommendations, These are the exact ones I purchased, but basically just look for good price and decent ratings on amazon. Make sure to get a good usb 3.0 enclosure too, if you didn’t know that already, ssd’s won’t come with a way to connect to USB already in the box.
enclosure
ssd
Edit: looks like I was off by $3. The total is about $43 (before tax, prime shipping).
I feel it, I'm also planning on upgrading to a new pro this summer. If you have stuff on your hdd that you want on your new computer, you could always get an usb enclosure to put it in and then pull stuff off of it from there (link).
I just got one. They really do make a difference, especially if your system memory is getting full.
I got away with spending only $75 for 480GB
Be careful though.
I saw a lot of no name chinese knockoffs at $50 that I would not trust.
Your most cost effective route is to get a drive and a $10-$20 enclosure separately.
Last month i got mine on sale for $12 off.
Amazon.com: SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-480G-G26: Computers & Accessories
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-480GB-Solid-State-SDSSDA-480G-G26/dp/B01F9G46Q8/ref=pd_gwm_cr_simh_1?pf_rd_s=blackjack-experiment-1&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pd_rd_wg=T9fbq&amp;pd_rd_r=ST92QT0JTXTFGHM7V1SR&amp;pd_rd_w=xHntF&amp;pf_rd_r=C3ZYYCCWR3Q3EDR2MGBC&amp;pf_rd_p=4330ddf3-ae16-472e-a2ae-05b619e5e749&amp;pd_rd_i=B01F9G46Q8
And
Amazon.com: UGREEN USB C Hard Drive Enclosure USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type C to SATA External Hard Drive Disk Case Adapter Housing for 9.5mm 7mm 2.5 Inch SATA I II III, PS4, HDD, SSD, 6Gbps Fast Speed UASP Tool Free: Gateway
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=external+drive+enclosure&amp;qid=1566190374&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=exterlan+drive&amp;sr=8-13
This is the exact housing I use. It comes with a usb cable to plug right up to your xbox. It even comes with a coupon!
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SSD Housing
Ok. SSD in an enclosure for temp work. HDD for storage.
Got a Samsung 860 QVO 1TB. Its a cheaper 1TB drive while still being higher quality. Because its not complete mission critical info (meaning it not something like stored photos, old stored files, ext) ill keep you with the QLC flash. Goes with an USB C enclosure that you can just plug in separately from the HDD dock.
Got a 4 drive bay. This is all USB 3.1, but USB 3.1 can handle even the SSD without an issue. Also Thunderbolt docks are expensive.
Going for a 6TB WD Blue drive for 3 reasons:
1: I've known WD drives to be very reliable and of high quality.
2: Value wise, its good to go with the 6TB drive.
3: Adds more expandability.
24TB of storage total whenever you get to buying all 4 drives.
About $416 total assuming you get one 6TB drive.
WD 6TB HDD: https://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-1TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B07MYKZGVX/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=WD%2BBlue%2BHDD&qid=1566355052&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
1TB Samsung SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76Q1T0B-AM/dp/B07L3D19MY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=samsung+1tb+ssd&qid=1566355016&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Enclosure for SSD: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.5%27%27+hdd+enclosure+2.5+usb+3.1+USB+C&qid=1566354545&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Cable for SSD (USB-C TO USB-C USB3.1): https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Delivery-Including-Matebook/dp/B01EMIIFCU/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=usb+c+to+usb+c+cord+anker+3ft+USB+3.1&qid=1566354820&s=gateway&sr=8-2
HDD bay: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-SATA-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B078YNYG6T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=USB+3.1+USB+C+4+bay+enclosure+HDD&q
Yep. It's not too expensive and really fast. The Enclosure was from Amazon.
UGREEN Festplattengehäuse 2,5... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07D2BHVBD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I'm im Germany, so you might have to search around.
I use the 1TB MX500
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077SF8KMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=mx500%2B1tb&amp;qid=1558360546&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=mx500&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
With this case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+case+3.1&amp;qid=1558360533&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
What you could do is buy a sata to usb controller and use it as external ssd
Like this one for example(not saying it is a good or bad one)
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD?crid=22F5QGENSI1BK&amp;keywords=sata+enclosure&amp;qid=1536216308&amp;sprefix=sata+en&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&amp;psc=1
I use this hdd dock with a 2TB HDD with my rpi (raspmbc). The performance is decent for scrolling through my large library and perfect performance for playback.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394941488&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=hdd+dock
Thermaltake BlacX eSATA USB Docking Station
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS
No reason to save to cloud if you can afford a hard drive docking bay. I mean yea I guess the cloud you don't have to worry about it, but I bought a few refurbished desktop internals and went with something like this... http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-St0005u-Docking-Station-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS
Edit: misread your question. Yea dropbox, Google drive, etc setup folders on your comp that are auto linked to the cloud. For personal storage though, if you have a lot...hd docking bays are the way to backup all your install files and sounds.
This one is less bulky and works with newer and older drives. I take this one with me whenever I get the inevitable calls from family at 3:00 AM :)
And this one is meant as a docking station. I have one of these at my office for convenience.
I haven't had any problems with either of them.
> Now, she can't even turn on the computer.
Sorry, I was skimming before and missed that part. Does it turn on when it's plugged in? If not, scratch the part about firewire and target-disk-mode. If it won't turn on, we'll go about this in a different manner. So, here's what I would do:
I checked the specs on the 2006 MacBook http://support.apple.com/kb/SP23 (and was relieved to see that the drives use a serial ATA connection) That's good because there are 'caddies' on the market which are not too costly which let you plug a SATA drive into them and turn it into an external disk. I swear by these things. They have helped many times for situations such as this.
This is the one I use:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=pd_sim_e_5?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1REARCQN1WCN8ECNF35B
You just have to take the drive out and put it into one of those caddies, then you can access it like any usb external. Minding of course, macs use a different filesystem than PC's. I think windows can read the mac filesystem but not write to it, without needing any drivers. We can deal with that when we get to it.
Here's a guide to taking the HD out of the macbook:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Core+Duo+Hard+Drive+Replacement/282
The screwdriver bits you'll need:
Don't be scared! Maybe one of your local nerds might even have the tools and a BlacX dock they could loan you. Holler if you have any more questions.
Aside from the other good suggestions...
I would suggest an external HDD dock.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Hot-Swap-External-Docking-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS (something like that)
It allows you to connect a HDD/SSD to it, then connect via USB to a computer. It serves the same function as an enclosure, but is easier to work with.
Okay brother, here's the dealio. First a disclaimer. If you have $50 in the bank, and have to have this laptop for school or work, don't even risk it. I was successful, and I'm happy I did it now that it is all back together. But it was scary. There were several instances where I was really worried about breaking something irreparably. If you've got enough money to buy something else, and just have the itch to upgrade this machine and the confidence to do so, here are the parts I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT102464BF160B/dp/B006YG8X9Y?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
http://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
What I ended up doing is putting the SSD where the HDD is now, and putting the HDD in the caddy. The bezel from the original drive can be removed and placed on the caddy. Just dig your fingernails underneath the top of the bezel and pull outward and downward. I was worried about it breaking, but it'll come off.
Also, the RAM was a pain in the butt until I realized how to install it. To remove the 4gb stick, I pulled the little clips <-- outward --> with my middle fingers, and pulled the ram forward with my pointer finger.
To install the 8gb chip, just insert it down into the slot, then push backwards towards the motherboard. It will just click into place. Took me about 15 minutes to figure out.
When you go to reinstall the ribbon cables for the keyboard and trackpad, there are little black plastic clips that clip down onto the cable and hold it into place. The bigger cable is fairly easy to get back in. The smaller cable was harder for me. I recommend holding the keyboard up like a book (left side on the table, right side in the air) instead of like a calendar (back side on the table, front side in the air). You'll see what I mean when you get there.
Other than that, just pay a lot of attention to the video. He does a good job explaining the actually dis-assembly process.
https://youtu.be/ByyYIzs6Cs8
And seriously guys, if you've never done this before (like me) and breaking this laptop is going to make you cry, don't even try it. It's a great laptop for the money. You don't always have to have more, more, more.
I would also recommend using the internal USB port for ESXI install, that's what its there for.
If you really want to use a SATA drive for the ESXI install and you have a dvd drive I would get an adapter that allows you to use the power and data connections from that. Link
Also on you question of "incompatible card in storage PCIE", yes, you can move it to a normal pcie slot and it will work.
No, the HP dv7 7000 series has 2 HDD bays, 1 SSD slot and I removed the Blue Ray player and added another HDD with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414024502&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+drive+hdd+bay
Use something like this. Works like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA?th=1
This is what mine looks likes
Also this.
To add:
To access HDD, ram, and DVD drive you need to remove entire bottom panel (18 screws I think someone said).
Since there is no DVD drive you can buy this http://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Optical-Drive-Caddy-Universal/dp/B004XIUQYA/ref=sr_1_3_m?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450357752 and put your 5400rpm in that and buy an SSD as main drive (the interface is only sata2 for the DVD drive connector, so don't put SSD in that).
You can undervolt the CPU (I was able to get -100mV. YMMV). This will make CPU cooler and use less power so slight battery life increase. You can also under clock and undervolt the integrated graphics for more battery life.
Used Intel extreme utility for this.
You can also overclock the GPU using nvidia inspector or MSI afterburner. (I got +120core/+115mem. YMMV). After over clocked it was running no higher then 60C. I have a laptop cooler.
I would recommend a laptop cooler with this laptop, not because it runs hot, but because there is lots of ventilation holes on the bottom with direct airflow over the heatsink from the bottom. So it will be very effective.
You need a caddy like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XIUQYA?pc_redir=1412519359&amp;robot_redir=1
I know this is an old post but just for the people that are looking this up and found this post:
I bought this laptop and it is possible to add an ssd or an additional hdd. You'll need to pick up a 9.5mm caddy.
You can buy an enclosure - but anything above 4 bays is going to be very tough to get cheap.
Something like this - I haven't used it so I cannot say anything about this model
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/
I've heard these are pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=8+bay+enclosure&qid=1549680117&sr=8-3
But, then you end up with two boxes instead of a single case. You might be able to find some lower power usage parts similar to what the NUC is, but in a case with 8 bays.
Monster machine. Easiest option is probably to get a DAS unit such as: https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/. But you are limited to USB3.0 speeds. If that isn't an issue, Stablebit Drivepool + SnapRAID over the drives or Windows Storage Spaces. If you need something faster than USB3.0, the HBA approach is probably your best bet. I'm a complete novice there, but I know the used enterprise ones support 4 drives with the standard cables. They can be expanded to 10+ ports with a secondary expansion card. Paired with a couple of those SANS Digital racks, you end up around $200 - so a little cheaper than the Mediasonic, faster performance,
I have this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-External-Enclosure-Transfer/dp/B005GYDMYG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418610426&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mediasonic+probox
4 drive USB3 DAS => https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
8 drive USB3 DAS => https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG
Preferably external, my case has some pass-through holes I could route the esata through if I had to.
And yes, this is connecting to an 8 bay external enclosure via a single esata cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GYDMYG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_0HY8AbKCY6223
Do you have a make and model for your case? The pictures you posted seem to be showing the inside of the 5.25" drive bays (where one would mount a DVD drive)
E: You can mount hard drives in the 5.25" bays, you just need brackets for them. Here is a link to a simple one from Amazon, $10
I've used this and I've used these.
It's alright. I rather spend the dollar more and have it shipped by Amazon.
I've seen them pop up on Amazon for about $5-$6. Sometimes as an Add-on item.
Prime it.
Sure there are:
If you're from the states: Newegg or amazon.
If you're in the EU: amazon.co.uk
Seems fine, the cooler should fit (I did not find specific clearance measurements, but the case is wide enough) there are 4x3.5" bays, so enough for the HDDs, you might need to buy something like this to cleanly mount the SSD in a 5.25" bay as there is apparently no 2.5" slot, but you have extra 5.25" bays.
Been looking for a solution myself. These might help:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141699818821
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0188V400S/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271923119160
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OJFASY/
You could use one of these to move that HDD up to your 5.25 bays and then remove all the HDD bays on the bottom. You would probably get increased air flow too. You could probably do without the fan you have on the HDD cage now or you could move it to the bottom of the case afterwards.
Looks good!
For ten comfy drives, Fractal Design Define R5
and two of these.
For eleven drives, three toasty, Fractal Design Define R5, and this.
For twelve comfy drives, Lian-Li PC-A79.
For thirteen drives, four comfy: Corsair 750D, this, and this.
For fourteen drives, five toasty: Corsair 750D, this, and this.
I have these and they work great and are totally silent (come with grommets) in my r4. Free shipping w/ prime.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OJFASY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395886205&amp;sr=8-1
This is the 5.25" adapter I used from Amazon....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Even if you're running an optical drive, you should still be able to fit this in there too. Definitely makes for a cleaner build with removing drive cages.
Nice build. If I could recommend some tweeks for the future...
1)put the ssd on the backside of the case(behind the mobo)
2)put the hdd in a cage and attach it to a drive bay
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You now can remove the drive cage and use the space in the future for water cooling, plus it cleans everything up.
So I know this thread is about a month old, but I have a Shuttle SH67H3 and I think it’s a beast, so I figured I’d comment. There are different options and if I were building something I’d probably do things differently, but I had gotten a deal on this a while ago and so far it’s suited my needs very well.
So first things first. I use Emby, not Plex. Emby supports hardware transcoding (via FFMPEG using VAAPI) and this has made a huge difference. I know Plex is planning on adding HW transcode, not sure if it’s been implemented yet.
Specs:
Ivy Bridge i7-3770
16GB RAM
Now I didn’t something a little different for storage. I got a 5.25” to 3.5” adapter (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I have 3 8tb drives in there with a 2.5 SSD mounted on between them, the adapter left me enough room to mount two drives to it. This uses all the SATA ports
Then, and this is more recent, I put an NVME SSD (Samsung 960 EVO) in the PCI 3.0 spot with a PCI adapter. The BIOS doesn’t support booting from the NVME, so I put the boot partition on the other SSD. What I’m probably going to do is move the boot partition to a usb thumb drive and install it internally on the usb headers. There’s spare usb headers and I got an adapter to convert these to a USB port.
For good measure, I also had a Sans Digital 8 disk JBOD enclosure that’s basically a SATA port multiplier. The external east ports not he shuttle doesn’t support data port multipliers, so in the other PCI 2.0 spot I got a esata card with two ports.
Most of the time people direct stream, but there are many occasions of them transcoding as well. With throttling on for transcoding, it takes around a minute to do a hour show. CPU runs about 14%. The transcoding temp directory is on one of the SSD’s, this helps speed up the process I’m sure as it reads from one disk and writes to another.
I do the same thing with my NZB’s, intermediate directory on one disk and extract to a different disk. I have gigabit and get sustained 107MB downloads, this is with direct write on, unzipping as it downloads, and also allowing repair on one download while continuing another.
I’ve had quite a few people watch at the same time. Like I said most people direct stream and transcoding is pretty quick so you’d probably have to have at least 11 people start watching something that requires transcoding at the exact same time in order to overload it. Maybe one day I’ll actually run a test.
Software:
Emby
NZBGet
Kodi (this is what I use to watch stuff in my living room)
Sonarr
Radarr
Lazy Librarian
Ombi
Organizr
Webmin (year I know)
Nginx
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A
I used these to mount my 2.5" ssd's in a 3.5" caddy for a c2100. Seemed to work like a charm.
As far as drive caddies go, I think deepdiscountservers.com sells then for $5 each.
Any sata drive should do.
How much data was on your hdd? An SSD would probably be best to replace it with if you dont have too much data.
Something like this(this was the top result on a search, not necessarily the best option)
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U
You will also want a cage to mount the 2.5" ssd into a 2.5" bay.
Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459462342&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd+cage****
You will want to Reinstall windows (got recovery discs?), then programs. And then copy your files back from your backup. Also dont forget to configure your backup again as SSDs are not immune to failure either.
Probably ok. You can buy a metal one of those for about $5 if you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A/
http://www.amazon.com/SABRENT-Inches-Internal-Mounting-BK-HDDH/dp/B00G57BN1M/ (fits 2)
Yes you can, make sure your tower has a slot for a 2.5 hard drive. If it doesn't, you will have to get a 2.5 to 3.5 mounting bracket.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453351390&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=2.5+bracket+3.5
I have used this the dual one for SSD's but not sure it is what your looking for..
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B0090UG55A
buy this https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Hard-Drive-Supports-Drives/dp/B00APP6694/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498023487&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Plugable+USB+3.0+Hard+Drive+Dock+for+2.5+and+3.5+HDD+or+SSD+%28Supports+SATA+III%2C+UASP+and+Drives+8TB%2B%29
I purchased one 3 years ago and it holds my external 2tb hdd for my xbox.
case: Corsair Carbide Series White 500R Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E97ZUU/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
motherboard: MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12OBEU/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i04?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
processor: Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO8TBOW/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
thermal paste: Arctic Silver 5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
psu: Cooler Master V1000 - 1000W Power Supply with Fully Modular Cables and 80 PLUS Gold Certification
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CGY4ETG/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EWUO22/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESG7G/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition Single Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESGGC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Samsung Electronics 840 Pro
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7PD256BW/dp/B009NB8WRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382907278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+840pro
Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
keyboards: CM Storm QuickFire Stealth
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJ2EZI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ducky Shine II TKL Mechanical Keyboard White LED Backlit (Black Cherry MX)
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=12170
mouse: Logitech G9X
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Programmable-Laser-Gaming-Precision/dp/B001NTFATI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382907692&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+g9x
hot swap hard drive bay: Plugable USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APP6694/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
monitor: ViewSonic VX2703MH-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A3KFB8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
sata cables: 18" White SATA 3 III 6 GB/s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK68OA4/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
lighting kit: NZXT CB-LED20-WT 2-Metres Light Sensitivity Sleeved LED Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046Y5Z92/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i05?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have a 6TB hdd, so I know what you mean, but this thing doesn't seem that mobile to me, so I might just buy another "regular" 6TB hdd.
the one you have looks like an external hard drive in a large case with sata-to-usb cable and a power connector, so I might just buy this thing to turn my internal hdd into an external one when I'm traveling or smth, but thanks, it'll definitely be a good idea to keep the hdd you linked in-mind when deciding.
This is all you need + a HDD. It supports any drive 2.5" or 3.5". I currently have a 4tb HDD in mine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APP6694/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_GgvYub0AK476B
Steve Gibson's Spinrite can check the integrity of the drive as well as refresh the surface data by reading it and re-writing the data back to the drive. If it finds an error, it does a pretty good job of repairing the drive if possible. He's on the verge of releasing a new version soon.
I have an old dual core box I use specifically for doing virus scans, booting it from a variety of CD/DVD AV rescue disks and another dual core box configured for cloning drives, I use these, mine are branded Orico but they are the same:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Lay-Flat-Docking-ASM1053E/dp/B00APP6694
for easy drive insertion and removal on both of those machines.
Yes, it's very easy.
I don't know if this is the argument you want to get into, since the PS4 doesn't officially support 7200 RPM drives and is limited to 2.5" SATA II drives with a transfer rate of 3 Gbit/s.
Sounds like your HDD most likely converted to a Raw formatting during the win 10 upgrades. I've experienced some of my offices PC HDD getting corrupted or converting to Raw due to the Win 10 Upgrade.
I can't say for sure if this is the case with the laptop but seems like it. If this is the case, you will need a data recovery software that can recover data. If the HDD is in Raw Format, you will need to find a recovery software that can recover from Raw HDD.
In order to check to see if the HDD is in Raw format or not, you will need a USB to SATA (or whatever type of HDD the laptop uses) adapter or similar device. Example: USB TO SATA Adapter .
You will need administrator to the following:
Once the laptop HDD is connected to another PC via Adapter/Docking Station Or I guess you can also use the Portal HDD with Windows Live to check:
If you see a Disk that says "Offline" underneath the Disk Label, right click the "Disk **" and then click on "Online". If you get lucky, this may fix the issue. If not, proceed with the following below.
If it says Raw, it sucks and you will need to find a recovery software that works on RAW HDD's. If it says MBR or GPT, not sure, may need to do more research in that case.
I'm assuming you have two desktops here. You can connect your crashing HDD to your working desktop by opening it up and connecting it to an open SATA power port from your PSU and using a spare SATA data cable to connect it to the motherboard.
You can also use one of these to connect it to your working desktop by way of USB port to back up your data.
Then you can make boot media for Win 7 using a CD or a flash drive. Google "how to make win 7 boot media". Once you have it, put your SSD in the computer, boot and install from the media you made and transfer the data you backed up onto the SSD once it's done.
There are other options. Some IDE enclosures and cables cost about the same and do have Prime available
Rosewill RX35-AT-IU BLK Aluminum 3.5-Inch IDE to USB 2.0 External Enclosure (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BU6ITW
Sabrent USB 3.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/5.25-INCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC9) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y
Maybe try this
I hope the drive is able to be read. I use this to transfer files off my internal drives, but if you wanted just a sata to USB, they would be around $10.
You will need an adapter to get data off the old drive.
I have a few really good adapters that can all connect an IDE drive to USB, but I think for your needs you just need a basic kit like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y
This type of kit will have all the basic tools you will need.
I know you said you didn't want to spend money, but this is probably the only way to connect the drive to your computer.
Maybe call around or ask a friend if they already have the adapter.
Agree with this. Plus if you have it hooked up to another computer it will be much easier to recover data as you can just copy it to the computer you are using.
It is a big waste of time to try to repair the computer in question just so you can recover data. The link sglville provided would work but I would go with something more like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-USB-DSC9-SATA-Drive-Converter/dp/B00DQJME7Y/ as it's USB 3.0.
I just picked up this thing, same as what OP posted.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQJME7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was under the impression the laptop still ran when it was plugged in but not charging, is that correct? For your HDD, you need to pul it out and see what type it is. Chances are its a SATA port which is still the standard today. Look for an external enclosure to put your old HDD in and you can access the whole thing to get what you want off it. What budget do you have for a new laptop? I'd shy away from Newegg when purchasing because their CS seems to change like the weather. I'd use their website to shop because they have a good filter and sort set up then when you find one you like look for it on Amazon. That way if it arrives broken you know it won't be a hassle.
When I buy my laptop I am planning on swapping out the 5400rpm HDD for an SSD. I want to put it in an enclosure so i can store my less important files on it without filling up my SSD. I have a few questions about this.
Thanks for any and all advice!
This seems to be a popular one:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406860620&sr=1-3 .
Plus its at a really good price, and has usb3.0. Also, even though the PS3 has no 3.0 support, if you ever choose to use it for something else, you are prepared for it. Let me know if it works out for you.
> Probably not but at least 500GB for music, softwares and games. Is it possible to use that 1TB HDD I would replace as an external drive? And could I get the USB 3.0 transfer speed with that?
Using something like this, yeah.
> Yes that's what I was thinking of. Does it still make a lot of difference to have that small SSD or is it worth having an SSHD 7200 rpm?
It'll make a difference for commonly used files, so booting up will probably be faster, and whatever else you use a lot. But it only has about 8GB to work with, so if you're storing lots of stuff it will only work as fast as the HDD is.
> Like this[1] ? (with a USB drive here)
Yup.
You might need an external hdd/ssd case. Something like [that].(https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-Festplatte-Externes-werkzuglose-Installation/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480798985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdd+extern+case) But this one is just for ssd you, need 3.5".
I've got a Samsung 850 in an:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Enclosure-External-Tool-free-FE2001/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503327838&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=inateck+enclosure
A lot of games load way faster, Bf1, the division...
I'm hoping the XOX supports USB 3.1 Gen 2 as it's much faster than 3.0 or 3.1 gen 1 because at the moment, USB 3.0 severely bottlenecks SSD's, although they are still way faster than mechanical drives.
here is a quick video i found for hp mini to remove hdd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VJV1H18TQE
then you would need something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427618249&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=external+hdd+case
so you could put the hard drive into it and connect and copy your data to another computer or flash drive. still cheaper than an IT doing it.(i am one i would charge maybe 20-50)
as for messing up just take your time keep magnets away from the hard drive and just dont drop it and you'll be fine
The GS60 is still going to be some pretty serious overkill for you. If you want more performance out of the V7 I linked, you can always get a Samsung 840 Evo and an external enclosure.
That way you put the SSD in the enclosure, use the cloning software the SSD comes with and copy the old HDD onto the new SSD. Then you can pull out the HDD and put the SSD right in and put the old HDD in the enclosure and boom, you got an upgrade laptop and a nice 500GB external drive.
Yes, anything connected through a USB will just act like removable media/flash drive.
Either a Docking Station or SATA to USB cable should suffice. They both do the same thing, but the station has the ability to power up 3.5" drives.
There is a good chance the data is fine and the hard drive didn’t mechanically “fail”.
You could even try best buy. Likely plugging the hard drive into another computer would let someone copy any important files to a USB drive.
If you know anyone with a computer you can buy one of these and plug it into their computer, take the hard drive out of your computer and put it in the dock and see if the files can be read:
iDsonix Tool Free USB 3.0/2.0 to SATA 2.5/3.5 Inch Hard Drive Docking Station with 3.3 Feet USB 3.0 Cable for HDD/SSD - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fZowCbNJB4Z9P
And a thumb drive like this is probably enough for all of your files and pictures:
SanDisk Cruzer CZ36 64GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive, Frustration-Free Packaging- SDCZ36-064G-AFFP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JR5304/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q0owCb37AK287
I've got one out on mine..
HDDs are noisy and slow, I replaced them all with SSDs inside the pc, and I just use them mostly as media backups.
I use an external reader if i need to access the HDDs.
This is the one i use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q0M7ybP5RNVAB
AWESOME! Thanks for your detail reply....the closest I've gotten to understanding what I'll need. So if I get this http://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-U3102-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=sr_1_26?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449880472&amp;sr=1-26-spons&amp;keywords=sata+connection+cable&amp;psc=1 will I be good to go? Plug the new 500GB M.2 SSD in and clone?
After completing a similar upgrade in my late 2009 macbook a few years ago, when setting up the SSD for the first time, i used a dock similar to this (http://www.amazon.co.uk/iDsonix-SuperSpeed-Docking-Station-Design/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451488458&amp;sr=1-3-spons&amp;keywords=usb+to+sata&amp;psc=1) ... to plug in the SSD as an external drive. i booted up into the recovery section of OS X (holding option as i heard the chime when i booted, then selecting recovery from the hard drive list) and then restored the SSD as a 1/1 copy of my HDD from within disk utility (guides on google can tell you how to do this). After that was finished i restarted my machine, holding option again, and selected the new SSD that popped up, made sure everything was brought over. When i'd verified everything had come across i disassembled my macbook, and swapped out the HDD for the SSD, put the HDD in a drawer somewhere safe, and never looked back!
I bought a pair of 3TB Hitachi internal drives like this on Newegg during Black Friday sales in 2014 (or was it Cyber Monday?) ...anyway... a pair of internal drives plus a 2 drive dock similar to this that cost me maybe $20 on sale? Everything was on holiday sales, so 2 drives plus the dock for them cost me less than $150. I popped the drives into the dock, plugged it in and assigned one drive to Time Machine and the other to SuperDuper. Everything just runs itself. Zero hassle.
Well I'll be the first one to give you generic information that you could have found with the search function.
You just do the needful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/032194318X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=IJFXHOHENJ2FH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321492668/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=I3J2AR8V86JZMD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596007833/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=I2OPTI4J0S4UG2
Good screwdriver set.
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-299
A network tone tester in case you need to map out your network and document everything. Also functions as a basic cable tester.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473701817&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=fluke+networks+tester
A punch down tool.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702091&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=punchdown
An ethernet crimper.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702137&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+crimper
A quick cable stripper.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Stripper-Cutter-Cables-107051/dp/B0069LRBU6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702190&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ethernet+stripper
A usb hard drive dock.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702021&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+hard+drive+dock
A notebook.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhodia-Meeting-Book-Made-France/dp/B001DCDSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702220&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rhodia+meeting+book
Your necessities may vary, this applies to more of a one-man shop, and there's plenty of other things you'll want to get that I don't have listed here depending on your job.
I dunno how much you should get paid.
or a docking station, pretty much the same idea http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=lp_778660_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417473135&amp;sr=1-4
I have always used Western Digital drives. At the moment, you can get a 1TB Velociraptor for about $200, but that's kind of overkill, especially if you will be using a USB dock. You may be better off with a Black drive, which is fairly cheap at the moment. Various sizes available here
Honestly, the read and write limit may be more on the dock side of things, than the hard drive. You may want to upgrade that, as well. (This one is only $40)
For your self-powered device, there's one here that is only $70 for 1TB.
I'm sure you already know this, but any USB-powered device is going to take a serious toll on your battery life.
So short-list:
Docking Station
Hard Drive
External
Hope this helped.
Gotcha, I was think old old, it's probably SATA
Get your self a docking station and you can transfer the files via USB. They're quite useful, cheap and you'll probably need to use it again down the line.
They're probably not quite as durable as the T3, but assuming you keep them in a side pocket of a bag or something, I think you'll be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC/
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIW1XG/
Those two parts basically make up the T3 at only a slight discount, but Samsung SSDs are kinda overpriced nowadays.
So, use this SSD, save some money, and still get 99% of the performance: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820156154
When gparted starts there is a window you can select the drives. In that window I see the SSD however, selecting it lead to nothing. There is no partition and no unpartitioned space! all the buttons are disables except refresh.
I should mention that I went through some crazy steps to get puppy linux on usb and the corrupted SSD together:
I was forced to do these since putting corrupted SSD in from the beginning by removing the back cover completely sets dev_boot_usb=0 dev_boot_legacy=0. Then since the device will not pass recovery screen I have no way to go to developer mode and set them to 1 again.
If I use a ssd to usb adapter would I be able possibly to format it and change the partitions with connecting it to my other laptop? (Assuming that ssd is not dead) I see there are some adapters like this
Depends on what SSD you bought, did you get a PCI-E ssd or a SATA based m.2. ssd? If its sata, you can get one of these
http://smile.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC/
You can also use this for the original SATA m.2. 128 assuming you bought the 128gb version of the XPS 13 from the Pi day deal like I did.
If its a PCI-E based ssd, the USB enclosures are a little more rare. I found this, but no idea if it works...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M-2-NGFF-PCIe-SSD-6Gbps-to-USB-3-0-Converter-Adapter-Enclosure-Case-B-M-B-M-Key-/291464383407?hash=item43dca18baf:g:Q0YAAOSw4SlV8P64
Did you buy the Samsung SSD? It comes with the data migration software which does the cloning for you
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/semiconductor/minisite/SSD/global/html/support/downloads.html
I'm getting the 950 Pro tomorrow, but going to put 8.1 on there fresh, so I don't need to clone. I know the 128gb ssd inside right now is SATA based as it reports as CM871
I bought a M.2 to USB adapter from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457309475&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ZTC+Thunder+Enclosure+NGFF+M.2+SSD+to+USB+3.0) which allowed me to connect the Samsung EVO to the Thinkpad through the USB. Then I used the Samsung migration software to clone the hard drive.
http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
i dont see the problem. literally the first hit for "m.2 usb 3"
Edit: Nevermind, i was 14hrs too late. But this version is available in gold, if you do support for rappers.
Actually, you can put them in an enclosure: http://smile.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
Startech also makes one, but why you'd get either over MSATA, I don't know.
I would recommend just reinstalling Windows on your new PC. It's certainly possible to clone your drive, but chances are you're going to run into drivers issues and whatnot. And besides, starting with a fresh installation makes your new PC feel even faster ;)
But, if you really want to clone it you have to buy an m.2 -> USB adapter (I used this one) to attach the m.2 drive to your old PC. Then get a cloning-tool (I'm not too knowledgable on the software, but I succesfully used Macrium Reflect Free in the past) and clone the old drive to the new drive.
I bought one of these:
Inateck FD2002 USB 3.0 to SATA Dual-Bay USB 3.0 Hard Drive Docking Station with Offline Clone Function for 2.5"/3.5" HDD SSD SATA (SATA I/ II/ III), Support 2x 8TB and UASP, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5DFEAb7NZ0NPC
Used it many times for my personal equipment but I’m hesitant to use it on client computers. Who knows if it loads Chinese backdoors or something...
It clones ssds really quickly though!
So, I have done this. It isn't hard if you have the right tools. What I used was a double external hot swap bay [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Docking-Function-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541712633&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=dual+external+hard+drive) and a piece of software I got off a Humble Bundle, I can't remember what it was but it was a duplication software. Removed both drives and plugged the whole thing into a different computer then it duplicated the drive in about a half an hour.
Just as a thought, I would personally purchase a new external hard drive. I would want to make sure that my backup would be the freshest drive possible to minimize the chance of drive failure, and the drive you are using has had movement, impacts, etc since 2011 when you bought your laptop. I think it would make a great disk for moving files around but not for a backup.
As for mounting external drives to a computer, I have the Thermaltake BlacX docking station. It allows me to hot swap between bare drives I have. May not work for you, but I find it convenient.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394287395&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=thermaltake+external+drive
Edit Again: Also stay way from OCZ SSD's I have had 3+ fail on me. They are horrible. I personally love the intel drives, they are more expensive but are very robust.
Bunch of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Hot-Swap-External-Docking-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS
HDD brand doesn't matter. IDK how much data you have, but get an SSD if you don't have much. Recovering an image is going to be really fucking hard with it being a failed drive. You'd be better served getting "a toaster" https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Hot-Swap-External-Docking-Compatible/dp/B001A4HAFS like this and just dragging any files you can with a clean install. Keep in mind, you will probably lose stuff. You waited til it was failing. Open the computer, unscrew the drive, take the cables out, put the new drive in, screw it back together, and put the cables back in. It's a desktop, if the drive you linked is the right one. It's very, very easy.
just buy one of these
I posted, but then deleted as I don't really think I understand your concern here.
Is your concern that you won't be able to use your ubuntu flash drive to boot a machine with a broken windows OS to retrieve data?
Do you have extra hard drives? What we do sometimes for a complete wipe/re-image is we remove the hard drive, put a new/spare one in and then once that image is up, we dock it with one of these and start transferring the data from the old drive.
Is your hard disk still being detected by the system? Have you tried the drive in another PC? Have you tried it in a toaster to attempt to retrieve your files?
You can pull the HDD and get something like this. I have one, it works great. Hope that helps.
Right here, I own it , and its totally worth it. Not the same brand, but the same thing almost.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;s=miscellaneous&amp;qid=1259704133&amp;sr=8-3
Also Brando sells many different types, check them out, not sure if they have a lan port or not
http://usb.brando.com/usb-hdd-dock_c057d015
Just an FYI if you had a HDD toaster you could simply pop the drive in and grab the pertinent data. Also, freaking awesome on the Muai Thai. Ask him if he is a Kru or teacher pronounced crew.
If you have access to another mac. You can open your mac up. Take the hard drive out and stick in HD chassis. Then pull whatever you need off.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A4HAFS
This is one I've happen to use and did it's job well.
Get him one of these. :)
This sub isn't for notebooks, there's nothing to build. I'm not familiar with this laptop model, if RAM is replaceable it must be pretty staightforward, if there's two slots then just add another SO-DIMM DDR4 4GB stick, if there's only one then get 8GB stick. If you want to add SSD there's two options, if this laptop has M.2 slot (i pretty sure it is) then get some M.2 SATA SSD (as i'm not sure if it'll support NVMe), if there's no M.2 and you don't need optical drive you can get optical to 2.5" caddy and install 2.5" SATA SSD in there.
But most importantly, this isn't going to help much with gaming, you can't replace the CPU and this laptop uses integrated CPU's graphics. Sell that laptop, save a bit more and you can get a good entry-level gaming PC for 600-700$ from scratch.
Hm I'm not too sure about the sizing (plus it looks like the cd drive is one of those slit drives, so not sure how removable it is?), but maybe something like these or this?
I've been looking at the Dell Inspiron 17 7000 series laptop (7737) --
17 in Touchscreen Full HD display.
NVIDIA 750M Graphics
4th Gen. Intel i7-4510U
I think all models include 1TB HDD
Only thing is, it only has one HDD bay. However, you can always purchase an HDD caddy that fits the CD bay, if giving up the CD drive for the extra HDD is an option for you.
Can be bought for around 1,000 brand new direct from Dell. I've seen as low as 800 on eBay for these specs for "open box" sale with 1YR Dell in-home warranty.
So, if you bought this, say for around 1,000, that leaves around $500 in your budget for a kick-ass SSD.
Full disclosure: I'm a contracted employee for Dell/Unisys. I do not receive kickbacks for recommending Dell.
Since you're mentioning replacing your optical drive with an ssd, you would need an adapter. On laptops the optical drive uses a different connector than the hard drive.
i believe most laptops can do this. I did this with my Sony. Just figure out which height for the caddy you need.
http://www.amazon.com/SATA-caddy-12-7mm-Universal-DVD-ROM/dp/B0056EW4A4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345847208&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdd+caddy
http://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts%C2%AE-9-5mm-Optical-Drive-Adapter/dp/B004XIUQYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345847267&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdd+caddy+9.5
We think these Asus laptops have the optical drive, but there's a good second option. You could simply remove the optical drive and use the space for the SSD, as shown in this video. You'll just need to buy this optical drive caddy in order to get a good fit.
This way, you'll have a laptop with however much ram you'd like to install, 1TB HDD + SSD all for under your budget with a really nice IPS screen.
I was just poking around on youtube and found that I could remove the Optical Drive and get a HDD enclosure that fills that space.
I got a laptop with a 1TB HDD in it, replaced that with a 256GB SSD, then swapped the ODD out for one of these adapters
and put the 1TB it came with in there.
Note those adapters come in different thicknesses, make sure you're getting the right size for your laptop.
Best of both worlds at the cheapest price.
I plan on a similar upgrade!
RAM €94
SSD €442
Caddy for mbp original hard drive. €9
Enclosure to make use of the disc drive. €11
Total: €556
Can you guys tell me if these are suitable upgrade parts for an early 2013 mbp? Thanks in advance.
At home, I run a 2006 oMP with a modified 2 x QC, 5870, 32GB ram, and 6 drives (4 in the sleds, 2 in the lower optical drive bay) while at work, I have a late 2013 nMP with a 3.7 QC E5, dual D300 (2GB), 12GB ram, and 1TB SSD.
The nMPs have a PCI type SSD. Further, there is only one slot. It is upgradeable, so you can potentially save $$ by ordering the lowest capacity initially and then upgrading via OWC.
To multiply storage, I would recommend a Thunderbolt external enclosure (like this one). Alternatively, if extra high speed via TB isn't a requirement, the nMPs have USB 3.0 and you can use an external 8-bay enclosure such as this or this.
The nMPs are gorgeous. However, I'm also madly in love with the Al tower design and I would probably go with your alternative should I ever need to.
I use this
https://www.amazon.ca/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mediasonic+probox&amp;qid=1564612290&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
They also have a 4 bay version.
I have that one too.
This is what I was looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-ProBox-HF2-SU3S2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B003X26VV4
They also have an 8 bay version:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG
You can throw up to 8 drives in a USB enclosure like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediasonic-H82-SU3S2-ProBox-External-Enclosure/dp/B005GYDMYG/
Or get a PC case with several hot-swap bays like this one:
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811163255
I would recommend phasing out any hard drives you have that are 1TB or less.
Define cheap? You could get an 8 Bay external enclosure for $270, or 2 4 Bays for $200 (2x$100)
It's not as ghetto as using a naked backplane, but it's probably a bit more than a naked backplane.
5 is a weird number. If you cheap, might as well as go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GYDMYG
I don't think that's the bracket you're looking for. The one you linked converts an external 5.25" bay (for, say, an optical drive) to a single external 3.5" bay (for a card reader or floppy drive). You want to convert a 5.25" bay to two 2.5" bays. Because of the greater size difference, there's a lot of options open to you. You could just get something like this, though you'd need to find a 5.25" bay plate to cover the hole. There are also options like this that include a faceplate (and actually will mount 4 2.5" drives), or this if you want to be able to hotswap drives, or even this if you want to retain the ability to have an optical drive.
Sorry to waste your time man, don't answer if you don't want to, but is this it?
I'm installing an SSD in a 5.25in bay. Looking for recommendations for a good mounting bracket.
Something like this, or is there a better one?
Will this work?
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Aluminum-Internal-Mounting-Absorption/dp/B005OJFASY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541792754&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3.5+to+5.25+drive+bay+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41a%2BnV56boL&amp;ref=plSrch
Look for something like this. I can't vouch for this product as I haven't used it, but with a HDD (mechanical) you need a little bit of space for heat dissipation, and something with vibration dampening is nice for noise canceling but not necessary.
You could rig something out of the existing cage and some metal snips / creativity, but honestly it's probably wiser to go for an existing product. Search for 5.25" to 3.5" adapter or something along those lines.
Yes, you could look into this :
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Aluminum-Internal-Mounting-Absorption/dp/B005OJFASY
Or search: 5.25inch to 2.5inch bracket
Goodluck
If you run a build with 1 ssd and 1hhd, I recommend getting a 5.25 to 3.25 mounting adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-AC52535-1S-Aluminum-5-25-inch/dp/B005OJFASY
I placed my HDD right below my CD drive and removed both the drive cages for better air flow.
Thanks....that's the kind of thing I'm looking for. I like for things to be properly mounted. I'll probably try to chop off the front part so it won't show from the outside though
edit: found what i'm really looking for......thanks for pointing me in the right direction
http://www.amazon.com/ORICO-AC52535-1S-Aluminum-5-25-inch/dp/B005OJFASY/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41jZzEbVIGL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1ZKBV0GP684PGM6BTEZ0
Alternatively, you could put your SSD in your 5.25" bay with one of these.
---
My rationale for the chosen products:
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Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
[bought this] (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005OJFASY?keywords=5.25%20to%203.5&amp;qid=1453164965&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;sr=8-2) tried all other places. Would just barely fit the top 3.5 spot on the HDD bracket (Was hitting GPU sata cables). Thanks for the headsup, didn't know this adapter existed.
pull that optical drive out and buy as slim usb drive to hook up if you need it. Remove all the drive cages and mount the SSD on the back side of the case behind the motherboard and put the 3.5" drive in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OJFASY
There is a lot more than can be done here but still way better than some of the snake pits I've seen pass through PCMR and BAPC
You haven't TRULY suffered until you've had to build a system with 3 drives, a moderately sized heatsink and the biggest 900 series card ever made into what is probably one of the tiniest mATX cases out there (EVGA hadron)
https://i.imgur.com/woBe3ZK.jpg
Literally every step of that build from the very beginning was wire management. There were entire discussions on the OC forum Hadron owners thread about various aspects of cable management.
It turned out rad though and was comically powerful for it's size - 7700k @ 4.5ghz, Gigabyte Xtreme 970 and 16g DDR4 3200 RAM
That would work except it is SATA. I need SAS so I can add the SSD to my storage spaces (need dual port).
This looks promising if my sled has the center mounting holes.
Also this but it is pricey. Found one on eBay for $15.99.
They don't have any 2.5" mounts in their cases for SSD's, so just tape it like someone else said, or you can buy a converter like this, that lets you mount 2.5" SSD's in 3.5" HDD bays
Since it's a desktop computer, you may need a mounting kit. Or you may not - newer computers often have mount points built in. You just need to check to be sure.
I want this?
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Mounting-2-5-Inch-3-5-Inch-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
A regular SSD mounting bracket should work just fine.
There's screw holes on the side to fasten to your 3.5" bracket.
Looks like your board has a bunch of open SATA connectors.
You could get something like a Samsung 860 Evo 2.5" Sata like this https://www.amazon.de/Samsung-MZ-76E500B-EU-interne-schwarz/dp/B078WQT6S6/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542959738&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd
and these sata cables
https://www.amazon.de/KabelDirekt-7-Pin-SATA-Datenkabel-Gbit/dp/B01LFB3R0W/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542959706&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=sata+cable
Only thing you would need to check is if your power supply has a free SATA port (probably does, looks like this) http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/sataindex.jpg
You'd be best finding a 2.5" mounting spot in your case. If you can't find one, put the SSD in this and put it where you would put a regular 3.5" hard drive https://www.amazon.de/Corsair-Einbaurahmen-geeignet-schwarz-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542959874&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=ssd+3.5
It's definitely possible.
I need something like this except the holes on the bottom should be spaced 2.5" style.
thank you for the reply, I didn't know I could have both the ssd and hard drive working at the same time. good to know about the tape/velcro option works. Looks like the mounting bracket is only 6$ though.
I know the 500 gb option would be a huge help on the budget, but I don't know how to setup the folders perfectly to manage space and the last thing I want is to run out of space. can you confirm that buying this would work in my computer?
ssd: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
&#x200B;
cable: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-18-Inch-Cable-Locking-90-Degree/dp/B009GUXU52?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
&#x200B;
mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mounting-Bracket-drive-CSSD-BRKT1/dp/B0090UG55A
Would something like this work with a. LFF Caddy?
Corsair SSD Mounting Bracket Kit 2.5" to 3.5" drive bay(CSSD-BRKT1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090UG55A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KIkKzb6PFFSAA
I used to have 1 sided 3.5 to 5.25 adapters, might be something similar out there for 2.5 to 3.5
I actually use a internal hard drive with a usb dock instead of an external hard drive.
Link to the dock I use (just as an example) [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APP6694/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v1TuxbKRTR1XV]
I've been using this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Lay-Flat-Docking-ASM1053E/dp/B00APP6694
$25 and swappable, no screws or anything else. Just make sure you grab a HDD with 7200 rpm. I got this one for $100
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T3GRLY/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
This is how I would try to salvage a self inflicted fuckup such as yours - Getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Hard-Drive-Supports-Drives/dp/B00APP6694
Retrieve the data you need and reformat and reinstall.
Now you can fuck around with dual-boot on a system without important data on it.
I hope you didn't buy that cheap looking thing. For that price you can get a much better one then that dinky thing.
Like these for instance:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Hard-Drive-Supports-Drives/dp/B00APP6694/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B0099TX7O4/
or
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Docking-Station-DS-UBLK/dp/B00IKAQ538/
I've got this from my participation in the reddit secret santa for 2014. It's very useful for the shitload of internal hard drives I have that are always outside my case.
I had this issue - this is what I purchased and did it myself (the first one, not really knowing how to do myself before hand), (you'll need a new computer to transfer the data and a place to transfer the data to). If I new you I would loan you mine. There are different versions of these devices:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQJME7Y/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
or
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APP6694/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2EF8L5POAS8HF&amp;coliid=IC1C39PQCSDMQ
No clue what a native SATA hookup is. Google doesnt know either as no product descriptions came up either haha.
I am currently using this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Lay-Flat-Docking-ASM1053E/dp/B00APP6694/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420563909&amp;sr=1-3
Thanks for hte software!
Drat; it's a bare drive and all I have is a dock (Plugable's, which does not seem to allow for SMART data).
Thanks; I figured it was a part of SMART reporting, and that DU should show it.
As Chibone says, what model? But anyway if you go to the iFixit section for MacBooks and select your model, you will find clear instructions on how to take the hard drive out of your laptop. It's very straightforward.
After it's out, you don't want to actually put it into another MacBook, just connect it to one, using a simple dock like this one for instance. If you have any friends who like messing with computers at all, they would most probably have one already.
[Edit] Here is the link to SuperDuper btw, which is free.
I'm using this: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00APP6694
With a bare 1tb seagate drive.
Try something like this first http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APP6694/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1449579489&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=external+drive+bay&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41lwku%2Bq4pL&amp;ref=plSrch . Last resort really, but it takes the laptop out of the loop. Alternatively you could also put the hard drive in a desktop to accomplish the same.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APP6694
This is absolutely excellent, cheap, and works flawlessly. I have two of them.
I have a boatload of drives, I just plug and go.
I have taken the drive out of the plastic enclosure and tried using this connector. But has not solved the problem.
Now, the drive starts (as in, I can feel the vibrations of the drive spin), but stops after making weird noise within a minute.
Here's a data migration adapter, but I don't guarantee that that's the only way to do it. I'd submit another post asking about it before going with a SATA to USB 3.0 adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/?tag=hotoge-20
I'm looking to buy this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/?tag=hotoge-20
http://www.howtogeek.com/182452/how-to-get-data-off-an-old-hard-drive-without-putting-it-in-a-pc/
I'm pretty sure that should do the trick, right?
http://www.amazon.com/SABRENT-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y
For an desktop hard drive (3.5") you need a powered version of that cable like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y
Otherwise the hard drive won't have enough power to spin up. The cable you bought is for laptop hard drives (2.5")
What you want to do is called cloning, an exact copy of the drive copied to a different drive. That includes the OS and all programs, settings, documents, etc. This only works if you're installing the new drive back into the same laptop. Instructions for that are below.
If you want to be able reinstall Vista on a different machine that may not be possible. If the copy is an OEM, came installed on the laptop when it was new, then it's tied to that machine and can't be activated on another machine.
If it's a boxed retail copy then you can reinstall it but you'll need an install disk and your product key. I expect you have OEM but if not let me know and I'll see if I can find a legit place to download an installable copy.
Here is how to clone the existing drive to a new drive:
First, stop using the old drive. The more you use it the more likely it is to fail completely so can't access anything on it.
If you have a desktop available take the old drive out of the laptop and connect it to a sata port on the desktop. Alternatively you can use a USB adapter that lets you connect it using a USB cable.
Download Clonezilla, burn it to a CD or copy to a USB so you can boot the desktop from it.
Follow the instructions on Clonezilla's site to clone the disk.
<Be very sure you've properly identified the disks, you don't want to accidentally wipe out the desktop drive >
If you don't have a desktop available then get the USB adapter and connect the new drive to the laptop, then boot the laptop using Clonezilla.
something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JFUI6M/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_O.LBwb1SKNNQE
or this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_agMBwb0ZZYXV2
My mistake, you're right. When I was quickly googling I didn't pay attention to the bit/byte difference.
Quickly googling I found https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y, so perhaps it is useful
I mean, you could, with something like this
you could try, but if the old drive ran on a different computer(different components), you could have driver compatibility issues.
Options：
1）connect the old HD as a second HD to the computer; you can start the pc normally and see the old HD as a separate drive. You can then just explore.
2) Use an external adapter/dock(Hard drive enclosure). Connect old HD via USB.
like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-USB-DSC9-SATA-Drive-Converter/dp/B00DQJME7Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481345505&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hd+3.5+enclosure
or this：http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hard-Drive-Docking-Station-USB-3-0-to-SATA-DS-UBLK-Sabrent-/161954677792?hash=item25b5404420:g:HhsAAOSwUV9WmvSX
Depending on how old your HD is, this may vary though.
I have an old laptop that won't boot cause It fell down,it's pretty old like 6 years so I'm not bothering to get it fixed,was wondering if I could buy this to recover files from my HDD
Yes you can get something like this USB3 to Sata, and you should b fine.
I use this one every day.
http://smile.amazon.com/SABRENT-5-25-INCH-Converter-Activity-USB-DSC9/dp/B00DQJME7Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427290136&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+to+sata
I always use one of these. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_C6I6AbYR3G822
This should work, but it's a little pricey. However, it is, to my knowledge, the only way to really do it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQJME7Y?fp=1&amp;pc_redir=T1&amp;tag=hotoge-20
One more question, will a USB to SATA converter offer any possible change of accessing files?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQJME7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have this one, which has worked perfectly with everything I've thrown at it. Definitely worth the $23 (and it's prime eligible).
Have you tried connecting the external drive to another computer? You can also buy an external USB drive caddy, but you need to buy one that would fit the hard drive inside your external drive. The type of caddy needed will depend on the type of drive, 2.5" (laptop drive) or 3.5" (full-size desktop drive, and either SATA or ATA.
Something like this if it is a 2.5" and SATA:
http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00DW374W4/
Thanks! Do I need to where any like antistatic glove while working with it?
And would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Enclosure-Tool-free-Installation-Compatible/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416858765&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=2.5+hdd+enclosure
Inateck 2.5 Inch USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure External Hard Drive Case with USB 3.0 Cable for 9.5mm 7mm 2.5" SATA HDD and SSD, Tool-free (FE2001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DW374W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kDC4BbVTQN9YH
??
I just picked this up last month. Works great and is practically identical to the Elite's internal hybrid SSHD drive. Powered through USB.
Seagate 1TB Gaming SSHD SATA 8GB NAND SATA 6Gb/s 2.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000LM014) $80
Inateck 2.5 Inch USB 3.0 Hard Drive Disk HDD External Enclosure Case with usb 3.0 Cable for 9.5mm 7mm 2.5" SATA HDD and SSD, Tool-free (FE2001) $12
Get an external hdd enclosure
like this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DW374W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408313724&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
You can pop in the new drive and do a diskclone using acronis
or if you like a freeware try clonezilla but its not as easy and intuitive like acronis.
Once you have the copy you can just swap the drives and done.
I had to send my laptop out for repairs recently used this.
You can hook it to another computer and just drag and drop files to it.
I tried it with this and a 64Gb SSD. Kept on disconnecting. Eventually returned the enclosure but not tried a different one yet. May have something to do with the on/ off switch on this one, perhaps points to some built in power management.
I threw in a 2 TB western digital HDD into my ps4 and put the 1TB that came with ps4 into a Inateck 2.5 Inch USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW374W4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 even at 3 TB I ran out of space lol setting it up is pretty easy I believe all I did was plug it in.
For cheap enclosures that do the job, I've got 3 of these... no problems and USB 3.0
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW374W4?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I also only use Samsung EVO's. They go on sale pretty often, and are super reliable. 250GB is only $80 on Amazon
right now. 500GB is usually about $150 and totally worth it for a PC game/boot drive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBRE5UE
These
Size: 1TB
Manufacturer: Western Digital
Model Info: iDosnix U3102 Hard Drive Bay
Western Digital Blue 1TB Sata 6GB/s
Keeps the drive aerated and lets me use the bay for computer reasons as well.
Get one of these. Boot up your laptop and login with it attached with the hard drive in it but the unit powered off. Once your laptop is booted up and you're logged in power on the usb converter and you should see your hard drive in file explorer.
https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-U3102-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B00FDLCTQO/
Yup, a fairly common thing to do, especially in days past, when flash storage was smaller, and more expensive.
You'd need an HDD dock or something similar.
E.g. https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-Drive-Docking-Station-Cable/dp/B00FDLCTQO/
it does look toaster like my cheap portable hard drive decided to break so I busted it open and made toast
You could use a SATA to USB adaptor like this one
This allows to connect the SATA drive to USB and mount it.
It also allows you to connect a drive to your NAS as external storage, and use it for backup purposes.
Worst case scenario, it will ask you to reactivate windows. if you switch the hard drive.
As far as setting it up externally >
I use something very similar to this >> http://smile.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B002OV1VJW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416383465&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=USB+Adapter+for+hard+drive
Or something similar to this>>
http://smile.amazon.com/iDsonix%C2%AE-SuperSpeed-Docking-Station-Design/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416383465&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=USB+Adapter+for+hard+drive
Edit: Forgot about windows uefi, you may have to disable secure boot in the bios.
i dont normally recommend open encloses for home use but if your worried about heating just a 3.5 HDD dock like this : https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-U3102-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=lp_160354011_1_24?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480566276&amp;sr=1-24
Just make sure you place it someplace you cant accidently knock it down.
No, that one is data only. You need power. So you could get [this,] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HJZJI84&amp;pd_rd_r=KR6444MEA160MEPWCH63&amp;pd_rd_w=i7MKD&amp;pd_rd_wg=9oeST&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=KR6444MEA160MEPWCH63) which is powered off USB, or [this,] (https://www.amazon.com/iDsonix-U3102-Drive-Docking-Station/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=pd_sbs_147_25?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00FDLCTQO&amp;pd_rd_r=R4JVCFZ5TCDHZRCJFQ94&amp;pd_rd_w=OFjP8&amp;pd_rd_wg=7FxgU&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=R4JVCFZ5TCDHZRCJFQ94) which has wall power.
Simplest thing to do is a Migration Assistant on to the new computer. That would install all your drivers and you would be up and running.
Since your old computer has a bad logic board, you will need to do a bit of surgery to make this all work. This would require a small amount of screw turning, but it will be worth it.
You will need two things: 1. A 00 Philips head screw driver. 2. A hard drive sled. For example, you could get something like this (http://www.amazon.com/iDsonix®-SuperSpeed-Docking-Station-Design/dp/B00FDLCTQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422654295&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hard+drive+sled) for $22. Or you can get a hard drive enclosure and then keep that old hard drive as an external.
Here is a link to an iFixit guide on removing the hard drive from your 2011 MacBook Pro. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5119
Once you have the hard drive removed and in your sled or enclosure, you can then transfer the data from that hard drive on to the new computer. Here is a link to how to use Migration Assistant. http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT5872
Hopefully that will work out for you. That is certainly what I would do in your situation.
You could try using a USB dock and see if the desktop drive will connect through it.
If, say, your desktop had AHCI enabled in its BIOS but your laptop doesn't, that could be a reason why the laptop doesn't know WTF to do with the desktop drive.
If so, the USB dock might bypass that problem.
All of this stuff depends and you'll have to take the HDD out to find out. It's very very very likely sata. I've never seen a non-sata storage device in a computer unless you specifically bought one to be non sata. I purchased this usb harddrive reader and have been very satisfied with it. It makes the hdd act as a usb drive. In theory you can just drag and drop all your data off of it if you use this or something like it.
Buy a dual hard drive dock that clones like this. Then get a couple 1 or 2 TB drives.
My workflow is to import with lightroom into my computer. Then when I'm done with the raws, I drag the folder within lightroom to the external harddrive. The external clones itself every once in a while.
Just to clarify, have you seen this? I'm guessing you have based on what you're saying. Wondering if I can use a dual-bay toaster with cloning and leave the one disk in 100% of the time, then just clone it. Might be easier, if it doesn't take too long to clone.
Oh yeah, batching works fine too, its just cost vs time equafion. I have few dupe needs, so I spent under $300 and I have 3 clones going from time to time myself. Have fun cloning☺
edit:
Here's what I use by the way;it's just fine for my needs
http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STBV5000100/dp/B00JT0EGPW
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-eSATA-Components-SI-PEX40065/dp/B00AZ9T4F8
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG
and lastly the ssd's external / internal
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Shockproof-Enclosure-EC-UK3B/dp/B0126RO1YK
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-512GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7KE512BW/dp/B00LF10KTO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJ99DI
Cheers.
I have one of these that has served me very well since Feb 2015.
Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA Dual Bay External Hard Drive Docking Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JYeMBb7QZ8RAM
You can get something like this and use it's clone/duplicate functionality, but I'd only get something like it if you will have need for it again, otherwise just get another sata cable.
https://www.amazon.ca/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498756307&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=hdd+dock
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419351520&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdd+dock
That should fix your problem! Love mine
Order an HDD dock, put both in, you can get a program to transfer the files. You can check /r/buildapc for more info on this.
I would recommend a clone dock, then use Windows Disk Management to extend the drive.
A device like this works great : https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482269475&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sabrent+clone+dock
My father and I (briefly) ran a computer repair shop and used something like this to recover data.
If the hard drive is actually toast it's a much taller order, though.
These are a life saver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gsXiybBDMTQ3D Pop your mech in bay #1, ssd in bay #2 and let it do it's magic. After that, once a week, power off your system, put the ssd in bay #1, old hdd in bay #2 and back up your ssd. If the worse ever happens and you loose your boot drive, you can be back in business until you can replace the ssd, or if the Windows install gets corrupted and the ssd is still good, clone that back to your ssd.
Now, to answer your question, no your pc will allow you to change your hdd configuration however you see fit.
Your drive is on its way out the door, simply put. I highly recommend getting a new one as soon as possible. In regard to cloning, hmm...my preferred method in your particular circumstances would be to do a hardware-based drive clone using something like this if possible, but I would advise doing that with a drive of equal size. If not, I am not too familiar with OS X drive cloning utilities, but it looks like Clonezilla supports OS X so that is one tool you could use.
Could I do something like this or does xbox only support one hdd at a time?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IKC14OG/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1
I use this to copy drives regularly... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IKC14OG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499801398&amp;sr=8-8&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hard+drive+dock&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RCEC8ToCL&amp;ref=plSrch
You'll then need to expand partitions after if you want to, but this will give you a 1:1 clone by just plugging it all in and hitting a button.
Uh, something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
Leave your current drive in place and get an m2 to usb converter like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
Then run any of a number of drive cloning software available. Then replace the current one with the new one. Then use the adapter to make the old drive a very fast external drive. Simples.
There are usb to m.2 enclosures like this:
http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
I've not used them myself so not sure how the controller works but if you're lucky you can clone from/to the ssd when using it with one of these!
You'll need something like this to transfer the data.
is this an incorrect adapter?
this
An M.2 USB enclosure is like 25 bucks on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
You could probably find just a cable for cheaper. But for 25 extra dollars you're upgrading your SSD and getting an external SSD.
If you want an external enclosure something like this will work. http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC
You can search for m.2 to usb, or m.2 external enclosure to find other options.
If you just want to hook up the drive via a sata cable and power power cable inside your desktop you could use something like this, http://www.microsatacables.com/1-8-inch-micro-sata-to-m-2-ngff-ssd-adapter
This is most likely the cheaper option. Search for m.2 to sata adapter to find other options.
That's not a m.2 2280 SSD?
If so, there's a number of choices in adaptors that go from m.2 to USB. They're cheap and would mean you could test the drive. Also, the 2280 drives are inexpensive to begin with. If this is a 2280, that is
update: this is the adaptor I have: http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451793963&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=m.2+adapter
Okay so. I before I pop in the new one. First place it into a device like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/ZTC-Enclosure-Adapter-SuperSpeed-ZTC-EN004-BK/dp/B00KQ4LNJC/ref=pd_sim_pc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1JYYNQKWNVHJ9BTASZNR
Then I should run a program like "EaseUS Todo Back-up". "To clone the drive and then just extended it within Window." Did I get that right?
Yes, I'm waiting on an order from Crucial right now. Their website had a handy section (this) where you can select the make and model (X1C3 2015 was listed) and my 500GB was $210 I believe, which was cheaper than amazon or newegg. Just no super quick shipping. I should get mine next week because they are low on stock, but for the price and the fact that I'm not running out of space quite yet, I don't mind waiting. I also got a USB 3 housing (this) for the new one (while I clone it) and to put the old one in as a 128GB flash drive when I'm done.
Buy a clone bay and save yourself major time. This is what I use in my office.
Disclaimer: I’m not a tech expert, these are just the steps I would take.
I’m not sure if using an ethernet cable would work, but I’d try it.
You could rig a blank cd with his drivers from HP’s site and try that.
If neither of the above work, my next idea could be scary if you’re not comfortable opening up computers or annoying because it could require some equipment that you don’t have. Take out his hard drive and put it either in a desktop with the appropriate SATA cables or in an external hard drive unit. This is the one I use. Add the drivers onto the the hard drive using another computer. Disconnect the hard drive after making sure it’s safe to do so and reinstall it into his laptop.
Other people have suggested probably safer options, haha. I just thought I’d throw in my two cents.
Edit: Someone mentioned that the drivers may not be compatible with win7 and I think that’s very important to check.
i bought this badass little dude
theres other types of stations too, i just like this one because it covered the HDD and looked nice and slick.
for instance theres this one. it offers 2 slots at once, but they stick out lookin all derpy and shit lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Docking-Function-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=clone+hard+drive&qid=1562008527&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Edit:
You can go as simple as this:https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Black/dp/B07FDTY299/(won't work with 3.5 HDD)This will work with 3.5" HDD: www.amazon.com/SATA-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Power/dp/B07PVX682Q/
Or a little more advanced like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Docking-Function-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ (I personally have this but admittedly I haven't even opened it up or used it yet..)
Here is the best way I've discovered to do this:
With a inexpensive drive duplicator (around $35 U.S.), you can put the source drive (HDD) in in the source bay and the new, bare, drive (SSD) in the "target" drive slot.
Then, with the press of a button (you don't need to be connected to a PC to do this) all of the contents from the source drive gets duplicated onto the target drive. Plug the new SSD in the computer and power it up. Easy!
The problem? The target drive must be the same size or larger than the source drive. It would not work in your case. The process is a byte-by-byte duplication.
It's good to have the duplicator around, because you can later buy internal hard drives and use the duplicator as a docking station. Plug it into your PC, and suddenly you have one or two more storage drives.
So, my suggestion would be to buy an SSD the same size or larger than the spinning drive and get the cheap duplicator/docking station. A bit more money, yes, but a useful purchase.
Otherwise, you have to find a software solution to the problem, and software solutions (as you've discovered) are tricky.
HERE is an example of the dock.
Hope that helps.
I'm in the same situation as you. My WD My Book crapped the bed. It still spins up but the computer sees no writable partitions. The I/O light doesn't even blink anymore. Just stays solid. Although, I got the cable just right once and I was able to slowly copy a few files over before the problem started repeating again. So this leads me to believe it is a port/cable issue. It was even still under warranty. But you have to ship it back to them and they ship you a NEW one. If you want your data recovered you have to send to to a third party first. WD says they destroy your data but I don't trust it.
The WD My Books are just HDDs with a shell so you should be able to swap the HD with another working WD Mybook
You can also take the case off and it has an adapter on the HDD to change it from 2.5SATA to USB 3.0 micro b that you can slide off and make it a normal HDD. So if you have an extra PC or trust yourself installing a second HDD in your current PC you could try that. I attempted this and failed. But I contributed it to trying to install a 4TB hd on an old dell with 2GHz processor and 2gbs ram. Even when I set my bios to boot to the Dells original Seagate HDD, the dell still tries to boot from the 4tb WD drive that never had an OS on it. And plugging it into an already booted computer failed too (risky move but I was desperate).
I've got three more solutions I'm gonna try. Gonna email WD an ask istead of replacing my drive if they will send me a new SATA to SS adapter and a new cable that comes with it. If not, Hopefully a USB 3.0 to 2.5 SATA cable does the trick.
And if all else fails. An HDD dock seems like my favorite and an all round better solution than external WD my books.
You shouldn't have to solder anything. But I haven't been successful at recovering the data so what do I know hahaha
Good luck.
I thought about something similar from Inateck, a drive cloning dock. This would allow me to keep more drives offline with easy cloning, but you can access drives separately. Downside of course is that it's wired, so that means taking up desk space when I want to use it.
Photographer here, so I may not be working with as much data as everyone else here--although I'm am still dealing with 500-3000 raw files a week--and I agree with /u/tonydaazntiger319, it'd be better to get into the habit of backing up onto physical drives. Last year I moved from using external WD drives to a proper HDD backup and so far it's worked brilliantly.
I use a [Dual Hard Drive Dock] (https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Function-Tool-Free-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499287048&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=dual+hard+drive+dock) and each year I buy two [3TB Seagate HDD's] (https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM008/dp/B01IEKG4NE/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499287170&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=3tb) titled "2017". I have one drive off-site at a friends house and each week I grab it and bring it to my place and use Carbon Copy Cloner to create an identical copy.
I need to start looking into a cloud backup solution (any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, now that amazon isn't offering their unlimited prime backup) so that I have three copies but I never delete files off of my computer until they are backed up on both drives. Works great for me and is pretty cheap when you consider the cost of lost data. Hope that helps:)
So I have a couple of ideas for you. First if you just wanted to run off straight clones of the drive every time this is a pretty cheap way to do it. It has a offline clone feature that allows it to clone from one drive to another without a computer. The biggest problem here is you would have to do them one at a time.
Inateck USB 3.0 to SATA Dual-Bay USB 3.0 Hard Drive Docking Station with Offline Clone Function fit 2.5"/3.5" HDD SSD SATA (SATA I/II/ III), Support 2x 8TB and UASP, Black (FD2002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GvhJBbQ9DP734
Next would be a similar solution but this would do it all at the same time. Cost is a lot higher. Although it’s going to be a one time cost that might pay for its self with time saving.
Systor Systems 1:5 SATA 2.5" & 3.5" Dual Port/Hot Swap Hard Disk Drive/Solid State Drive (HDD/SSD) Clone Duplicator/Sanitizer (90MB/s) 3.5 inches SYS105HS-DP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DWICN5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7yhJBbZW57HMB
Cheaper version ( I am not sure if you would need software with this one or not. Need to check into before purchasing)
Hard Drive Duplicator eSATA Dock - GLOTRENDS K4 4 Bay USB 3.0 + eSATA Hard Drive Docking Station with Clone/Duplicator Function for 2.5/3.5 inch SATA Hard Drive(Diskless) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072FCB433/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FzhJBbV9A5YJH
Full disclosure I have used and like the top option and have not used either of the other. I don’t see any reason why they wouldn’t work for what you want.
yeah you should be able to feel it spinning. the usb to sata cables only work well with 2.5 laptop hdds and ssds. you'd need a dock of some sort that is externally powered https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Dual-Bay-Docking-Function-FD2002/dp/B00N1KXE9K/
Yes. Sadly you have to manually move each and every game individually, there is no bulk copy. So you can copy stuff off old to internal, then once internal is full, plug in new one and move it over. Then repeat.
Another thing you can do is buy a device like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=
This will allow you to do an exact clone of the drive without needing to manually copy stuff over. It also serves as a dock so it is a useful piece of tech.
Use usb? It will work fine over USB 2.0.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-FD2002-Dual-Bay-Docking-Function/dp/B00N1KXE9K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520028041&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dual+hard+drive+dock&amp;dpID=41F11fK4WuL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Well if I were a computer forensics expert, I would use something like a USB hard drive dock such as one of these. Then I'd take an image of the hard drive preserving its state at acquisition. SSD hard drives are a little more complicated due to the fact that the hard drive has its own internal management software which lead to such effects as erased data becoming irretrievable merely by being turned on whereas magnetic disks do not have that problem. Oh, but what do I know, I'm just a Phd of computer science.
only have windows running at the moment also saw something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1KXE9K/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3GKWI06GSC9E3
but was hoping for a software solution but i can get that if it will work fine.
Actually there's a two drive USB 3 docking station that has built in drive to drive cloning.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1KXE9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also I like Clonezilla
I actually use a physical device. Mostly just because it's super useful for other things in the IT field, but it works perfectly and quickly for cloning to a new physical drive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1KXE9K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was in the same boat as you a few months ago. Here's what I did.
Perfect copy, worked like a charm. No muss, no fuss.
this is the docking station. its very basic. Would I need more of something like a NAS to accomplish this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1KXE9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
M.2 2280. Here's the product sheet. https://www.sandisk.com/content/dam/sandisk-main/en_us/assets/resources/enterprise/data-sheets/z400s-mainstream.pdf
Here's an enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
Would this one work: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
Can't remember which type of SSD exactly, but there are options:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SM2NGFFMBU33-M-2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-USB3-1-Type-C-Enclosure-Adapter/dp/B07FQNH3QF
https://www.amazon.com/Acasis-Enclosures-Enclosure-Type-C-Samsung/dp/B07G96D4XF
You might also be able to find one on eBay for cheap for someone who doesn't have use for it anymore as well.
So it seems only M.2 SATA SSD to USB adapter are available. May be try boot from clonezilla on a USB flash drive, then clone from M.2 SATA in adapter to M.2 NVMe in laptop?
Use this to recover data.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SM2NGFFMBU33-M-2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
As far as your motherboard. If you’re comfortable with it you can buy one off of eBay and replace it yourself for $400-500 as long as you know how to apply thermal paste it should be fairly easy.
There are external ones.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
However, you're going to be limited to the speed of your USB bus, so the point of using a blazing fast M2 doesn't really matter
You can always buy these...
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https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SM2NGFFMBU33-M-2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
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I found this
Would this setup work?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SM2NGFFMBU33-M-2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y?th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-SATA-Internal-MZ-N6E500BW/dp/B078218TWQ/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0G3YJP29E23PET3SY3K8&amp;th=1
You can use an external M.2 enclosure that has a USB connection: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
My ideas was for them to sell 1TB M.2 sticks with SteamOS preinstalled people could plug into their computer and just go.
Carry the damn thing around and plug in to any PC and you have all your saves and games, bam.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SM2NGFFMBU33-M-2-SATA-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
Something like this? StarTechM.2 SATA External SSD Enclosure
If so, I don't see how that works or plugs into a USB drive?
You can buy any m.2 to USB adapter from Amazon. I have personally used this one
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=076NHJ9Q7ZQPN3K3XM3M
It's about 27.99
First up, you'll want something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y?tag=linus21-20
That will allow you to actually clone the drive as IIRC the X270 only has one slot for a PCIe NVMe drive.
Second, if you want the actual Lenovo drive - this should be what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkPad-PCIe-NVMe-256G-OPAL/dp/B018I4X8IU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504960540&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=opal2.0+pcie-nvme
Now that's ridiculously pricey unless for some edge case you actually need the "Lenovo" drive. Most of the x70 Line we've been getting in (T470 and T570) have been shipping with SanDisk SSD's. Big difference is the OPAL 2.0 - which is simply some on-drive encryption and other security measures.
Otherwise if you want to save a few hundred bucks, get this:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E250BW/dp/B01LYFKX41/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504960675&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=256gb+pcie+nvme
In the event your computer fails it would boot just fine off the above.
if all you want to do is to move your files then youll need to copy them to another disk then install your new SSD. reinstall the os then copy the files back.. if the programs you want to transfer have been installed on the OS then theyll need to be reinstalled to the new SSD
or take an image of the all the partitions on the old SSD using somethig like macrium > dump the image on another internal disk or USB HDD
or buy an usb m2 enclosure and clone old ssd to new
You must want something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-SSD-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526573829&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=m.2+enclosure
Where there are multiple levels of variations?
Pretty sure this is exactly what he needs.
Any 3.5" to 2.5" bracket works. This one works.
Just adding that this one costs just as much as a single version.
> that's a good idea too
Thanks. I already considered this for a Ghost S1.
I'd probably go with this one if you don't need 15mm mounts. Only goes up to 9.5mm. Main reason being it's not center mounted. So you can easily trim off a lot of the extra off and get it to mount pretty tight to the corner to save even more space. It also has a decent amount of solid surface to use high bond tape or to drill a mounting hole into. (I don't have a Dan case, so I'm not sure how easy that would be.) VHB tape can hold car parts while going freeway speeds, so it'll easily hold a couple of puny drives if you decide to go that route.
With some creative trimming, this one might be able to do 15mm though.
Most SSDs are 2.5” the rest are smaller, just get a cheap mounting bracket and plug it in.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ssd+mounting+bracket&amp;qid=1563487920&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ssd+mo&amp;sr=8-3
This one fits two.
Like /u/IsabellaQY said, one issue is no 2.5'' brackets if you want to install an SSD. There are adapters for that, though, if you need it.
If it's just a form factor problem, I recommend this $7 adapter that gives you two 2.5" mounting spots and fits in one standard 3.5" hdd bay.
Ah, didn't see the newegg link.
You just need a bracket of some sort, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Dual-Mounting-Bracket-CSSD-BRKT2/dp/B016498CK0
Actually, I may have some extras I'd be willing to send you for cost of shipping. They come with SSDs, but now a lot of cases has the adapter built in.
If I'm getting this SSD do I need this mounting bracket to mount it in this case?
Yes there are adapter brackets.
Corsair Dual SSD Mounting Bracket 3.5" CSSD-BRKT2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016498CK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZEg-BbV7X77GF
I used an enclosure for my 2.5" SSD in 2011 so I could mount it.
I found an inexpensive cage that might work for you here
What are you referring to ?
Are there 3.5" mounts to the back of the motherboard ?
If yes, then with a 3.5 to 2.5 adapter, you can mount a SSD without issue.
You do not need a tray or adaptor because the built-in tray already allows it.
By adapter, I mean these things
Verify first before buying anything that you do indeed have a second SATA power connector free (looks like this, might be a 90 degree angle plug), and that you have a second SATA port free on the mainboard (looks like this), AND that you have another drive bay to mount the drive in.
Also make sure the drive bay you have free is the right size. Desktop drive bays are 3.5" wide. Desktop drives are 3.5" wide. You CAN install a 2.5" drive (laptop size) with the proper adapter if you need it. (something like this)
Also verify if you have a toolless drive tray. A lot of prebuilts will have trays that the hdd can be mounted in without screws. Some OEMs like Dell, will not come with a second tray even if they have a second bay. (like these)
Even more OEMs have special drive mounts that will only fit one drive, use special screws, and won't have space for a second drive.
So, verify you have a free bay, if it is toolless, needs shouldered screws (like these), or standard screws (like these)
Do I have a free sata port?
Do I have a free sata power connector?
Do I have a free drive bay?
How does the drive mount into the bay?
Am I going to need an drive bay adapter or another drive tray?
Answer all of those questions before you buy anything.
yeah im looking at this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016498CK0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
So I'm ready to add a SSD to my system and I have all the parts ready to order and I was looking for any opinions before I buy the parts.
Amazon:
>SanDisk Ultra II 240GB
>Corsair Dual SSD Mounting Bracket
>Monoprice 18-Inch SATA III 6.0 Gbps Cable
>Total=$90.72 (Shipping 5-8 days)
or
Newegg:
>SanDisk Ultra II 240GB
>ICY DOCK EZ-Fit Lite MB290SP-B
>Coboc Model SC-SATA3-18-LL-BK-90
>Total=$89.29 (Shipping 4-7 days)
Edit: I decided to go with the Amazon option with the BX100 over the Ultra ii.
Update: I was able to mount this adapter to the rails that are in the tape bay and slide it right in (though I could only get one screw in on each side, the second screw hole on the rail does not line up with the adapter).
It does leave a hole in the front of the server though - the cover is not attached to the rails.
I'm running a Raid 0 setup on my X58. I thought of going down the NVME adaptor route via clover but was scared of messing around. Is it really worth booting from an NVME instead of just using the NVME for storage (video editing cache/raw footage)?
Also is there any difference between an PCIe x4 x8 x16 Slot adapter (that was linked above) vs just a PCIe X4 adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCXCR7W/ref=twister_B07NT4K8KM) ?
> So, what is the best adapter for me to buy that will enable me to utilize the full speed of my 2 SSDs, boot from them & enable RAID for them.
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"Best adapter" is relative.
You just need a PCIex4 to M.2 hardware adapter that works electrically.
Option: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W
I have no idea of the quality of components used on that adapter - but I do know it works!
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"Utilize full speed of my SSDs"" ?? Let the NVMe SSD do it's thing - don't bother with software RAID (introduce overhead).
I guess you could boot from a third drive and stripe the two EVO+ drives - but I'd still just let them be and not do soft RAID.
Yeah so an adapter like this one would allow me to use it at optimal speeds right? Would this allow me to use it as a boot as well or is that dependent on my MB? Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it!
Your motherboard has no slot for such an m.2 ssd.
However, there are many PCIe to m.2 adapters fairly cheaply available.
such as this one
Here's the Amazon link
You can get m2 riser cards to go in your pci slot, btw.
Those two drives are basically the same, not unlike coke & pepsi.
It sounds like your issue isn't with the Z170 motherboard, but the lack of M.2 sockets (there are Z270 motherbaords with only 1 M.2 socket, as well as Z170 motherboards with 2 or more M.2 sockets).
What is your use-case for a 2nd M.2 drive? Do you actually need the sequential throughput?
You can install a M.2 drive in a location that isn't a motherboard M.2 socket (There are a number of products that accomplish this, the following are just some examples I found in 2-3 minutes of searching). Like in a PCIe slot:
https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W/
Or to your motherboard's SATA express ports (could be a performance hit here depending on the SSD, as SATA Express is just 2 PCIe lanes):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAA6W5XX4889
Alternatively, you could buy a SATA SSD, which would have zero performance hit on your regular SATA ports.
https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_14#customerReviews
No worries. That doesn't really help but if you could show me where you found it I might be able to dig deeper.
For clarity, a PCI Express (or PCIe) slot is where expansion cards like your graphic card go. They are very fast when it comes to transferring data. A PCIe slot has "lanes" of data it can transfer. An x1 slot has one "lane". An x16 slot as 16 "lanes". Each lane can transfer 8Gb/s, if I remember correctly. That's some background info.
Now let's talk drive types. You've got Hard Disk Drives or HDDs, which come in different capacities and physical sizes. The two common sizes these days are 2.5" (usually found in notebook computers) and 3.5" (usually found in desktop computers). Larger physical size does not necessarily equate to larger capacity. Capacity is usually expressed in gigabytes (GB) or terabytes (TB). An HDD is one of the slowest forms of media commonly used today, but it's cheaper per GB/TB than solid state drives. (SSDs.) HDDs today use the SATA "bus", which is a specific way to transfer data. Your PCIe slots are another way to transfer data, but we'll come back to that.
Then you've got SSDs. The most common size still being produced is 2.5". These are much faster than HDDs. SATA SSDs are roughly 5 times faster than HDDs for reading and writing data. This means faster boot times for your system, faster game loads, and faster file copies.
A few years ago, M.2 SSDs came out. M.2 is not necessarily faster than 2.5" SSDs. This depends on which bus they use. If they use the SATA bus, they're around the same speed as 2.5" drives. That said, they're far smaller and use less power, so they're better for laptops and, frankly, everything else except for speed. That said, we also have M.2 NVMe drives. NVMe is a special type of memory (like your computer's RAM) that doesn't wipe itself each time you reboot your computer, which means it can be used for storage. Also like your RAM, it's very fast - about 4 times faster than a SATA SSD, which is about 5 times faster than an HDD. That means an M.2 NVMe SSD is roughly 20 times faster than an HDD.
Because of this faster speed, the SATA bus just isn't fast enough, so they use the same bus as your PCIe slots. They can use 4 lanes of the PCIe bus. They can be plugged into an M.2 slot if your motherboard supports them, but you can also buy an inexpensive PCIe card (which will fit into a PCIe slot, if you have one available) if your motherboard does not have an M.2 slot. Here's an example of a cheap card that I've found to work well. You mount the M.2 SSD to the card, then install the card in a PCIe slot. That said, if the only PCIe slot you have available is x1, it's kind of pointless to do so. Remember how I said it is roughly 4 times faster than a SATA SSD? And remember how I said it uses 4 PCIe lanes? Well, if you only use 1 PCIe lane, you're not going to see those same performance gains. At that point, you're better off using a SATA SSD. They do make them in the M.2 size/format. The Samsung 850 Evo is an example of a decent one. (Note: the 850 Evo is also made in the 2.5" size/format, so be cautious which one you buy if you go that direction. Also, note that many PCIe cards (and M.2 slots on motherboards, for that matter) only support NVMe/PCIe M.2 SSDs OR SATA M.2 SSDs but not both. The PCIe card I linked above will only work with NVMe/PCIe SSDs, for example. Therefore, the Samsung 850 Evo I just linked wouldn't be compatible with it.
I hope that helps to clarify. Feel free to respond with more info or questions if you have them.
You can get m.2 to pci-express adapters such as this that will be faster than a sata enclosure
If you have a free pcie slot you can use an M.2 to PCIE adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W
The longest m.2 disk (which this card supports) is 110mm and you can dump https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81smXUfnqXL._SL1500_.jpg into https://www.rapidtables.com/web/tools/pixel-ruler.html to see that from slot to the 22110 mark it's ~840 pixels, and to the edge of the card it's about ~460pixels so the card is (460/840+1)*110 ~ 170mm long
That's exactly the ITX size. The graphics card is H=37 L=169 W=131 mm. So: it should fit, no problems. It is sort of an official size by now.
However! Startech is expensive so https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCXCR7W why not? It's also shorter.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WRG94P even comes with a heatsink and still cheaper...
That link doesn't work for me but I use this one from amazon and I get same speeds as I do when it's straight into the motherboard. An x4 adapter is all you would need for a single NVMe drive.
If you want to do it on the cheap standard adapters should work. There are some fancy ones with multiple slots but they aren't easily available to consumers and they're pretty expensive due to the use of PLX switches.
you could remove the hard drive from the dead laptop and stick it in an external case, then plug it in the usb of your new laptop.
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google "how to replace hard drive from (insert make and model here) watch the youtube video of the removal process, then stop the video,
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then go to amazon for example and look for a external case, example following:
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https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Support-Tool-Free/dp/B01LY97QE8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=hard+drive+enclosures&qid=1563035572&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1
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you dont have to get that one, but make sure you match the drive, like if the drive was IDE or sata. and since by your words i think you might be in the uk, you can use whatever you have there besides amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Support-Tool-Free/dp/B01LY97QE8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542437690&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb%2B3.0%2Benclosure%2Bclear&amp;th=1
I use this one, looks good works great! - Click Me
get a 2.5in internal SSD, plug it into an enclosure like below, connect via USB
https://smile.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Support-Tool-Free/dp/B01LY97QE8
You can probably search for any 2.5" HDD enclosure on Amazon, but the one you have looks like it's the complete innards of the disk drive without the protective casing. Might be hard finding a third party enclosure that will offer protection of just that inner part without installing and having the thing move around inside and being exposed to the outer case itself.
USA
https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-External-Enclosure-Support-Tool-Free/dp/B01LY97QE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536090329&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2139U3
CANADA
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01LY97QE8/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1LRlfv_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=QF0WCTFJAPTT6D83F14W&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=05966f87-c8b9-5989-88a3-acec6b9a702f&amp;pf_rd_i=1233054011
Yep. Just use any of the 2.5in external drive enclosures you'd see on Amazon, for example:
ORICO 2.5 USB 3 External Hard Drive Enclosure Casing - $9.99
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-Free External Hard Drive Enclosure - $8.99
Ok this is what I'll try for my late-2012 iMac:
All in that'll cost me around $150 Canadian which is a pretty awesome upgrade if it works. I plan on putting all system files and apps on the 250gb SSD and my documents, photos, and other files on my existing slow drive.
Made a huge difference for me. I bought a Crucial 1 TB SSD and put it in an external USB powered enclosure and it's been great.
Components I used:
Crucial SSD
USB enclosure
Other one was my PCs original hard drive. I've replaced it with an ssd. I was using it with this thingy. It was a 500 gb HGST hard disk.
Because you can use one of these.
Like others have said, Microsoft doesn't make running Windows from a USB external drive easy. However, if your laptop has a typical DVD optical drive that you're willing to give up then you can replace it with an HDD/SSD enclosure like this one which uses the optical drive's SATA connection. You haven't mentioned your laptop model so I wouldn't know if you have this option.
Then you'll have 2 hard drives on your laptop that you can boot a version of Windows from both of them if you want to.
This one
Highfine Universal 9.5mm SATA to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRI8YFN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
In that case, you can use pretty much any laptop with a tray-loading optical drive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRI8YFN
You just take the outer trim off your optical drive and pop it onto that and it will look the same.
If your server came with a CD-ROM and if you so t intend on using it you could pick up one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRI8YFN/
You'll probably have to reinstall because it's not on the raid card anymore. Then you'll know if it's the card or drive.
Also, I agree, if your going to use ZFS then you do need an HBA not a RAID card.
If the laptop has a dvd drive you can put an adapter to hold a HDD in it's place.
https://smile.amazon.com/Highfine-Universal-SSD-HDD-Enclosures/dp/B01MRI8YFN/
Exactly. Used one of these
Is the one of the MicroServers with the slimline laptop DVD drive or the full size 5.25" one?
If it's the latter - and you've got an appropriate HBA installed - you can get up to eight 2.5" 7mm SSDs in its place: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TL4US8K
If not, you can swap the DVD drive at least for one extra, using those adapters people used to use for two drives in laptops: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRI8YFN
They can get a 9.5mm to 2.5" adapter for the ODD. AFAIK, Dell uses 9.5mm on their desktops.
As for the SATA ports, it only has 2 total; one for an HDD/SSD and one for the ODD. The SFF/USFF/DT variants typically have only two.
And I second the memory thing. While Skylake does work fine with standard voltage DDR3 (despite what Intel says), it wouldn't be crazy to assume the BIOS checks the voltage to make sure you're at least trying to pull Dell-validated RAM in it.
I've done this twice now, once for an Asus GL551 and once for a HP g6. This is the caddy that I used for both. It worked fine for the Asus. For the HP the plastic optical drive cover didn't fit properly as the clips didn't line up with the slots in the caddy.
Also it's worth noting that the SATA connector that goes to the caddy might be SATA II instead of SATA III, so might have slower transfer speeds on the HDD (although I don't know if its really noticeable)
As for software, I saved documents and such on a flash drive since I didn't want to deal with software and I didn't know what software to use (never again). I also added a 500GB SSD to my desktop, in this case the Crucial brand SSD that I bought came with a bit of paper that had a url to the download page of their software.
This.
https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Universal-SSD-HDD-Enclosures/dp/B01MRI8YFN/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VXSVKK97N9AYPCPT1W61
Honestly, your best bet as far as effectiveness and cost is to buy an external hard drive (or an internal drive hooked up to a SATA-to-USB housing such as this) and either using Backup and Restore from the Control Panel or buying a program like NovaBackup PC or Acronis True Image (both are $49.95 MSRP) and running that every so often. Just be sure to remove the external drive from your PC after every backup to keep it physically isolated from the rest of your system.
Yes it's less convenient than a service like Backblaze but it also gives you complete control over system backups and will be a hell of a lot more valuable in the long run next time you have a boot device fail on you.
Hey,
> I also have an unused 3.5" 2TB HD I can install as long as the laptop has the space/option for it - having this is a key element
You won't find any laptop with space for this - that's a desktop HDD and newer laptops are very compact. If you still want to use this for storage I'd recommend using it as external storage - combined with this: Enclosure.
My big question here: do you need a display with good color coverage or any LED IPS display would do.
This could be an option: Acer Aspire E5-576G - has a decent display with 80% color coverage, quad-core processor, SSD and room for an HDD, 2 memory slots, ~5H battery life, a decent peripheral port selection: 1 X USB 2.0, 1 X USB-C 3.1, 2 X USB 3.0, 1 X LAN, SD card reader and a backlit keyboard.
Or, if you need more power, I'd recommend the Dell Gaming G3 15 3579 - H series processor, GTX 1050 and a crappy display (biggest drawback) - it's 650$ on their official site.
But, if you don't like my recommendations, maybe you can use our search engine to find something more suitable for your needs.
You can see and change the search parameters using the "Refine results" button in the upper-left part of the search results page. You can also click on the laptops for more information.
Hope I helped!
Negative, what you do is then install Windows 10 from a USB to THAT SSD then reinstall what you want from Steam or what have you. Pull the old Hard Drive out so that you don't fuck up and accidently reinstall windows and possibly lose everything. If you do that of course.
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If you had a HDD Cloning solution, a Kangaroo Hard Drive Cloner or something Similar, you could easily bring things over. (No guarantee things would function properly, but you could do it.) The drives must be the same size or larger.
There are plenty of solutions for the hardrive cloning, not too expensive to be honest. Though maybe a bit much if you are only doing it this once? Up to you.
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I personally would just install windows onto the SSD, plug the Old HDD into an External Hard Drive enclosure, that you then use to pull off your important stuff and then place on the SSD. BE ADVISED, you don't want to completely fill up the SSD, it greatly reduces the lifespan of the equipment.
Use the HDD as a storage solution for larger games or things you can wait the extra couple of seconds to load. Windows lets you designate different drives/locations in your computer for applications, documents, the desktop, videos, pictures, everything. You just need to go about setting them up as much.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523032632&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=3.5+powered+enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G
You can get an external hard drive enclosure.
Like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZC303G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uIk5BbQX04VYZ
As I posted above, these converters are more for quick data transfer. If you want to turn 3.5 inch drives into external drives long term you would want some sort of drive enclosure.
AmazonBasics 3.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZC303G/
Better idea, don't replace the internal. It's more work than necessary, a pain in the ass and limits future expansion.
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Buy a cheap hard drive enclosure (2.5" laptop size or 3.5" desktop size) off amazon then buy a 2.5" or 3.5" 2TB hard drive to go in it, and use it as an external storage on the Ps4. USB has a speed limit cap so going faster isn't necessarily worth the $$ difference.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5-inches-SATA-Drive-Enclosure/dp/B01MZC303G
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https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Cache-Desktop-ST2000DM006/dp/B01IEKG402/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537990998&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5%22+2TB+hard
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https://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-2TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B013QFRS2S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537990998&sr=8-5&keywords=3.5%22+2TB+hard
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Brands don't have to be the same, just get a reputable brand off amazon.
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A normal will do, don't worry about SSD for external because the difference is negligible and SSD would be super expensive for a 1TB or higher
You simply pull out the hard drive from your Mac. Then plug it into this [external enclosure](https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Supported-Compatible/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1524879957&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=external+enclosure+hdd&psc=1)
Then you plug it into your good Mac and open up disk utility. Select the HDD as an available disk to reformat and erase it.
For $10 you might as just one of these for the same price
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX
At least then it has added protection.
Yeah that's pretty much it. Just make sure it's USB 3.0.
For reference I bought this SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KGRXRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And put it into this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWRRMYX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Note: You can just get an external SSD and be good. I only went the route I did cause it was cheap for a lot of storage. Still works like a champ.
Absolutely! Something like this could also be a possible option - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-TOSHIBA-Internal/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=usb3+hdd+enclosure&qid=1566498403&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQkU4TkZVUjY1V01SJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDY1MzIzSkpWWk5YSEhIUFlYJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAzNDUwNTIyS0E3NTBZUks3SDFLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Found this
DISCLAIMER: i have no relation to any companies on amazon. I just found the case after a quick search. (Buying from the link above will also donate a portion of your purchase to a charity. In no way am I affiliated with any charity, and the URL is also amazon.com so you can rest safe)
I guess ask them again, or just take the advice already given. If you really only want to get your files off the drive then a cable is all you need. An enclosure is useful if you want to keep using the drive as a portable external HDD. In that case, something like [this] is what you'll need (i.e. a 2,5" HDD enclosure).
Also, as far as I know, getting files off a MAc HDD can only be done by connecting it to another Mac -- you'll have to do your research here for more details.
So then, when you have your data saved and want to keep the HDD as a portable drive, you can format it and use it in an enclosure.
SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Case (comes with cable): UGREEN External Hard Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWRRMYX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Case lights up when powered.
I plugged mine into the usb slot in the back of my PS4 Pro (I think normal has one too). Works like a charm. Game loads before the primary theme finishes, and in-game menus and planets/zones load substantially quicker (but not instantly, still some wait).
Worth the ~$60 when you think of the cumulative hours saved on even just sifting through menus.
NOTE: I have noticed a bug that crops up now from loading “warp” too quickly. The “takeoff” animation will run without my ship following (just camera), causing the game to take a few beats on a black screen before loading the “warp” part of the load screen. It’s not a big deal, just wait a few moments and everything goes back to being its normal, speedy self :)
Assuming you're going to be using it as an external drive, they're all pretty standard. Just get one that has USB 3.x compatibility and you'll be fine. https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542929811&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdd+enclosure&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=412oAVQgKZL&amp;ref=plSrch
So the you already know that the drive itself works fine, it's just the PCB then? I read it wrong then. If you're trying to keep it as an external in the passport enclosure, you'll likely need to either replace the PCB with a working one (You can check ebay for spare PCBs and parts), or you can put the drive into another external enclosure, like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Adapter-Housing/dp/B06XWRRMYX/
All you usually really need to check whether the drive is working is a product like https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3S2SAT3CB-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ or https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Enclosure-Supported-Compatible/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ (there are tons of these out there, these are just examples) -- pull the drive out, hook it up, and connect it to a USB port on your computer. If drive is recognized and works fine (you might need to check the filesystem, etc.), replace the drive cable. If drive doesn't spin up, etc., replace the drive (it's possible that both the drive cable and drive have failed but the vast majority of laptop hardware failures are single-component failures).
You could get a cheap hard drive enclosure that has the USB port build in. That’s what I did. Something like this should be fine.
There’s a bunch of different ones on amazon, but this one is only 9$
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G2BQAbAG3MDW0
You are probably better off taking the drive out, buying a hard drive enclosure like this...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWRRMYX/ref=sspa\_dk\_detail\_0?psc=1&amp;pd\_rd\_i=B06XWRRMYX&amp;pd\_rd\_wg=cyG5K&amp;pd\_rd\_r=11KX14YDFPJECMSXRFYZ&amp;pd\_rd\_w=YHgZI
and then copying all your data off onto another computer and the using the Lenovo recovery mode to rebuild it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XWRRMYX?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2 (enclosure)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RJS55D?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2 (ssd)
How about something like this instead? No need for an enclosure perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565235845&s=gateway&sr=8-10
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565218171&s=gateway&sr=8-3
But I guess if you think an enclosure is better, I'll probably grab this one:https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SSD+external+enclosure&qid=1565214839&s=gateway&sr=8-4And just tape over the LED or somethin'
I think enclosures support TRIM while SATA to USB adapters don't but it sounds like no one uses/gives a fuck about TRIM anymore. I imagine both of those solutions should work.
That would work and that is a pretty good dollar per gigabyte ratio compared to other external SSDs but it's not an amazing deal or anything. A more cost effective way to do it is to buy an SSD built for internal use such as this Western Digital Blue SSD and pair it with an external drive enclosure like this one on amazon. There are many different models of 2.5 inch drive enclosures so feel free to shop around for one that looks good to you. Just make sure it supports USB 3.0 (or 3.1 ideally) and SATA III for the best speed. As for the USB 3.0 cable, the one that comes with the enclosure should be fine. The only quality factors to consider when buying a USB cable I know of are distance and ruggedness. Since you probably aren't going to have the drive tens of feet away, the only real factor to worry about is durability, however most well reviewed cables should be good in this regard. This one looks promising. USB 3.0 is a standard so anything labeled USB 3.0 will work to that standard.
Is it a 2.5 or 3.5? You can get a cheap enclosure that will do it like this (for 2.5 drives) https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/
The only compatibility issue you could run into replacing your hard drive with a new one is the size. There are 2.5" sata drives and there are 3.5" sata drives. Desktops can take both formats (usually) and laptops can (usually) only take 2.5". I've never seen a sata SSD in the consumer marker that wasn't in the 2.5" form factor. You're fine. Just make sure you also prepare a windows 10 installer USB so that you can install Windows on the SSD. You could also invest in something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ ) to put the old hard drive in so that you can access/copy/backup the data from it.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=2.5+enclosure+usb+3.1&amp;qid=1570992005&amp;sprefix=2.5+enclosure&amp;sr=8-3
What size storage did they want?
Just buy an enclosure - UGREEN USB C Hard Drive Enclosure 2.5 inch Hard Disk Caddy https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pmkPDbSRE1S5N
And put a drive in it - Seagate 1 TB BarraCuda Pro 2.5 Inch Internal Hard Drive (7200 RPM, 128 MB Cache, SATA 6Gb/s, Up to 160 MB/s https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D99KFPL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PnkPDbH1DPY47
I did something similar a few years ago (plugged an external drive that required a power supply into a universal adapter that was set at the wrong voltage). As u/MG47 mentioned below, it only blew the SATA to USB board.
What I did was I broke the shell open and removed the actual HD (it was just a regular hard drive it was a slightly odd size, a few millimetres thicker than a regular 2.5" HD) and have been using it for several years since that happened.
At first, I bought an HD case similar to this and just inserted in the bottom half and used it without the top part of the case (because it was too thick). Later I needed a secondary HD for a HTPC, so I just slapped it in that and have been using it for a few years as a sort of cold storage in the HTPC for stuff I don't access regularly.
If it’s a MacBook Pro then you can upgrade internally.
If it’s just a MacBook then you can’t do the internal upgrade because it’s soldered on.
If you can’t, I would recommend buying an external enclosure and a SSD or HDD to put into it.
For example: USB Enclosure
I buy loose SSD/HDD and then use an enclosure to house them.
Something like this... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D2BHVBD/
I don’t think my ageing SATA3 to USB cable does it anymore.
Why a cable? If it's a regular laptop with a DVD drive bay, use something like that:
https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Universal-SSD-HDD-Enclosures/dp/B01MRI8YFN
We use these at work for our surveillance.
For home use you can pair with this or this
> Mid 2009 Model A1278
But...
> It's a 2013 MBP.
Which one is it?
> so it doesn't have an SSD.
SSD was an option on both Mid-2009 models, but it should still be a SATA.
> Is removing the HD relatively simple?
Yes. Pop open the bottom case and it'll be right there in the corner. At least if you actually do have a SATA model.
> Is that something I can buy at Best Buy?
Probably, but don't. Cheaper on Amazon.
Would you recommend something like this?
Amazon Thingy
EDIT - or something fancy like this is pretty neat, or is it gimmiky?
There are, they are pretty common, I bought one from ebay instead of aliexpress. My issue was that it didn't fit any of my 960 pros.
This is one that was similar to what I bought https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-M-2-SATA-External-Enclosure/dp/B00T8F298Y
Something like this.
AmazonBasics 3.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZC303G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.7xUBbP0CVVKK
Allows you to not have to worry about going into the BIOS and switching boot priority. Again also allows you to easily wipe the old drive without having to figure out which is which.