(Part 3) Best computer routers according to redditors
We found 5,002 Reddit comments discussing the best computer routers. We ranked the 635 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
This is the product. It only has 10 reviews, so not enough reviews to make a conclusion.
I decided to run a different Netgear product through reviewmeta and it looks like it detected some shilling.
You are asking all new prices for used items.
That coffee maker is barely $20 on Amazon and you are asking $15 for it...USED.
Your Old West Boots for $90 aren't even $110 brand new.
The Motorola S85101U Modem is less than $50. The Linksys Router is three years old - the latest and newest version of the same (E1200 vs E1000) is less than $35. So you are asking BRAND NEW prices for three year old items?
So just a few dollars more (or in some cases, like the router & modem, cheaper), I can get brand new items that come with a return policy...plus cashback from my credit card rewards program. Come on...get real.
Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.
First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.
The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.
The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.
Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.
As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.
There are quite a few options out there, and it really depends on what your focus is. Do you have multiple 802.11 AC devices, or are most still on the N band? Do you game, and if so, do you plan on doing so hardwired or wireless (obviously I recommend wired if you can, but not everyone has this option)? How large is your living space, and are you in a house with few wireless points around or in an apartment with tons of wireless congestion around?
For everyday use that will serve you well all around with solid 802.11AC performance, I'd recommend the Asus RT-AC68U. FYI on this one, Amazon currently has it listed for WAY above what most retail shops are at. I've seen them recently as low as $115-130. Probably worth surfing around for a better price (FYI - if you have a Micro Center near you, they have it on sale right now for $140).
If you game heavily, and it is a big part of your daily life, the Netgear R7000p Nighthawk router is well worth the additional cost. I've seen this go as low as $140 in the past, but its far more often closer to the current price of $180.
Finally, if these are too far out of your price range, that's totally understandable. For a budget pick, the TPLink Archer C7 is an excellent all around router especially for the low cost. The major downsides of going with a budget router is the lack of good QOS (quality of service) tools to manage bufferbloat and latency for gaming, and slower processors that can harm large file transfers over a network or multiple devices at the same time. It all depends on your usage.
One final note - Comcast's device is often a modem AND router in one. Do you have a Docsis 3.0/3.1 modem already that you will be using with this, or do you need to purchase one of those as well? You can not use one or the other, you must have both (unless only hardwiring to one PC, with no wifi).
> TP-LINK TL-MR3040
That's awesome! Didn't know they had a battery powered version.
The device was a simple modem with one Ethernet port. He bought this which is the exact same model I have.
It has only one Ethernet out port, which you can attach a device to get the internet, but if you need more than one device and/or wireless you need a router too.
I have this router at home attached to my modem and we bought him a similar model. It may be the exact same, I forget off the top of my head.
Also your other posts posted like 14 times.
That's a gl.inet MT300N. Their hardware comes with a mildly customized version of openwrt preinstalled. They make a few different ones with different capabilities, like PoE or a microSD slot. They also make a micro stick router, which is an interesting concept.
I put vanilla openWRT on mine, though. The MT300N actually has the capability to turn the power to the USB port on and off via GPIO, which I've used to power-cycle a shitty Verizon USB modem. I've used other models for other things where I would have used a WR703N in the past. Anywhere I need a little Linux box with wifi and a USB host port. The newer models have enough flash and RAM that you can install a decent variety of packages before worrying about running of space.
I would recommend that you simply upgrade your router. It'll be much more convenient in the long run.
Try this one. I have 10 phones and 7 other devices that regularly use wifi. No problems at all.
You don't have to do top tier everything for a homelab.
Most people will never need managed switches, much less Cisco branded stuff. TP-Link makes competent and reasonably priced dumb switches.
For the router, I used to run pfSense on a custom PC build (~$300 about 6 years ago) but I'm already familiar with enterprise router settings and found all the features I could want in a consumer grade Asus router. At the end of the day, port forwarding, WiFi and OpenVPN are everything I'd ever want it to do. I can offload any heavy lifting or advanced features to my server.
If you're not looking to be super fancy, here's a simple homelab setup:
You can swap up or down based on needs but the router does all the basic stuff most people will need it to do. The 24 port switch should be more than enough as the primary switch for most people. The 8 port switch is great for secondary locations. The diskstation can handle your backups and cloud storage and is a nice balance of convenience and price. The R710 server can handle Plex, NAS duties and probably some light duty VMs.
The big add-on expense will be the hard drives, of course. You could probably get by shucking the 10TB easystore drives to save a bit.
I use a custom built server (Xeon E3-1231 v3 @ 3.4GHz, 16 GB RAM, built around 2012 and upgraded the CPU a few years ago) and have never owned a R710 myself, so I can't say much on the actual limits of what you can do with it. That said, I'm suddenly really tempted to grab a R710 to use as network storage because I've reached the limit of my current server. The biggest weakness I see in the R710 is the CPU isn't too beefy but its still decent given the sheer number of (8)cores/(16)threads. Plex and less demanding game servers are probably the limit of what it can handle but it should easily handle a number of less demanding VMs.
Anyways, as a starter setup, this should more than satisfy most people.
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-10400mAh-External-Performance/dp/B074LHG47K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hootoo&qid=1557230506&s=gateway&sr=8-3
see if amazon can over night it to you.
>What quality of router is the Google Fiber Network Box equivalent to?
A potato.
Seriously though, if you wanted a user-friendly router/AP combo, you can put anything behind a switch with proper VLAN tags.
Get one of these and follow the instructions here.
Then you can put any router you want behind it. I recommend the AC86u.
Personally I like the TP-Link N750 which is available on amazon for $64. The Archer C7 has faster wireless speeds but it's wireless chipset isn't supported so well by OpenWRT, so just pick the cheaper one.
I'm still rocking a $100 one from ~5 years ago, so your premise is false. Are you buying incredibly cheap routers? As a frame of reference, a $100 router is pretty average, the good ones are at least $150, top-tier ones like the Nighthawk are at least $200, absolute beasts (top of the top-tier) like the AC3100 are $300.
You're overcomplicating this. You should be able to do everything you want with a USG Pro (even a regular USG will be fine, but it's not rackmount), a single large UniFi switch, and one or more NanoHD APs depending on coverage needs. All of these support VLANs and the APs can have like five different SSIDs, all on different VLANs if you want, so you should be able to do all your planned segmentation.
Oh, and absolutely ditch the Actiontec. I'm assuming you're on FiOS, so just connect the WAN port of the USG (or whatever you wind up using) directly to the ONT's Ethernet port.
There are a few options out there, Motorola's are consistently rated very highly. I've linked to one here that supports up to a 172 mbps downstream, but doesn't have a built in wireless router (you would have to plug in a wireless router to access the internet wirelessly). There are also a few options to pick from that include wireless routers, and/or support faster speeds if you need it (it won't make your existing connection faster though, it just supports a higher level of bandwidth).
https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SB6121-DOCSIS-Retail-Packaging/dp/B004XC6GJ0
This would be a good option if you want a built-in wifi router:
https://smile.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1800-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU
You will have to call Comcast to provision the modem (basically just read them the MAC Address on the bottom of the modem and wait a few minutes). I've done this twice, and it's been straightforward. You can always just tell them that you don't like the idea of hosting a public hotspot (which you do if you have a Comcast modem with built in wifi-- it broadcasts on SSID "xfinitywifi" and is accessible by anyone that has a Comcast subscription).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=twister_B01FSK74FU?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The AC1750 WIFI variant is $50 off. I think I'm going to grab it.
Hey all, I wanted to share a "fix" I discovered for the constant 0x20010006 error code disconnects. It's not a great solution, but it 100% worked and I no longer disconnect. I tried everything from Port Forwarding, UPnP, DNS Settings, MTU Settings, DMZ host, static IP, clear cache, restart this/restart that, etc etc. None of that ever worked and I would constantly be disconnected.
I was using this modem/router combo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I decided to upgrade to this one: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-C7000-Compatible-Providers-including/dp/B0781Z5PCL/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=netgear+c7000&qid=1569522929&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Ever since plugging that unit in and connecting my PS4 via wifi, I haven't experienced any disconnects. It's not a great solution as it comes with an $180 price tag, but it 100% solved the issues I was experiencing. My only guess as to why this new Netgear unit works better is due to the amount of downstream/upstream channels. The old Arris unit was 8x4 and this Netgear one is 24x8. I'm not an expert, but that appears to be the biggest difference between the two units. Maybe someone else here has more insight as to why this new modem/router would fix the issue, but I hope this is helpful.
Mine's a Linksys WRT1900ACS. But it was really expensive ($180, iirc), and may have been overkill. I think they make a newer model now, too.
There are many non-Verizon brand hotspots out there, I can't say that the one I use is the best as its the only one I've tried but the one I use has ports for antennas and 4 ethernet ports to hard wire in your computers which i needed for my work from home computer.
There is a workaround involved with getting this activated on Verizon prepaid which involves you owning a Verizon brand hotspot, registering that hotspot for the prepaid plan and then simply moving the sim into this device. i purchased a $30 Verizon Jetpack on ebay for this purpose.
MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-SIM4 4G/LTE Router AT&T T-Mobile Verizon Embedded SIM with Band 12
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EY11K40/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also use the following products to get the best signal possible, currently:
(Quantity 2): Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J14YEHQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Quantity 2): Wilson Electronics 20-Foot WILSON400 Ultra Low Loss Coax Cable with N Male Connectors - White
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NQ3P3M/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Quantity 2): MPD Digital UC-5FHC-9DB9 N Female to SMA Male Right Angle Pigtail LMR-200 Double Shielded Coaxial Cable, 6-Inch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJWQJ2U/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Signal Strength: -51 dBm (100 %)
Speedtest results (extremely dependent on location but these are my results for my location):
Ping: 28 ms Download: 82.55 Mb/s Upload: 15.97 Mb/s
https://www.speedtest.net/result/8022626633
​
Here are the videos I used to build my system (just a heads up there is nothing about Verizon Prepaid in these videos):
Fast Unlimited 4G Internet Router for RV or Van or Rural Off-grid: How to Setup the Mofi 4G Router
https://youtu.be/pKyf9BQsduU
RV Internet - Get The Fastest Mobile Internet & Wifi On The Road - "How We Do It!"
https://youtu.be/7m_I9i0eTnM
Same price at amazon with prime (seems to be regular price?)
EDIT: amazon one is refurbished.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512054227&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+TM-AC1900
It’s less than $50 at Amazon. Prime shipping too.
T-Mobile T-Mobile (AC-1900) By ASUS Wireless-AC1900 Dual-Band Gigabit Router, AiProtection with Trend Micro for Complete Network Security (Certified Refurbished) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oII0AbT617703
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ/
AC 1900 wireless-router for $52. The catch is you might need to fiddle with the firmware a bit (I mean in a non-trivial way) if you want to get the most out of it.
Out of the box with near 0 config it'll run circles around the crap you wanted to use.
Sure. Here's what I could pull from my orders and searching around. This is most of my gear. Not really "homelab" stuff. Have a crap ton of ethernet running around the house.
I have had Comcast in bellingham for the last 3 years and have only had an outage or slowdowns twice. The first outage was out for about 5 hours when there was a windstorm and then just last week I believe when there was another. The downside reason for these is that we up here in bham do not have under the ground fiber in a lot of areas as they are on the power lines in most cases.
Now, I am not defending comcast, but I also used to do networking for companies and 90% of the time people were having slowdown issues (not service issues) was because they were using an old/really bad router/modem. What I would recommend is not using the modem and router that they give you (they give you a combo now), they are complete shit.
Now with this in mind slow downs are all about connections. Connections are the bane of shitty hardware routers. Let's say that every time you go to a website you make 1 connection. well if you have 200 people on your router that is 200 connections per website. But that isn't really the case. Every time you go to a website you are going to be making at least 5-8 different connections, because of all the ads and other things that have been coded into the website. so lets say you have 4 people on your router and that is now 32 connections. Well now lets say you have 8 different tabs open per 4 people with 8 connections per tab now you have 256 connections. For a bad router that is getting up there and add to the fact that it is probably the modem router combo. It is going to be even worse in its ability to handle connections. This is even worse if you have xfinity wifi as while it may not affect your "speed" like they say it will overwhelm the router. My friend had one in the UW area in seattle. It was incredibly slow and we upgraded the router/modem to ones that I had them buy and now they have no issues what so ever.
If you want to have less issues with slow downs you really need your own router and modem. here is what I would recommend.
Motorola SB6121
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415128088&sr=8-1&keywords=motorola+modem
D-link DIR-655
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&srs=2529294011&ie=UTF8&qid=1415128174&sr=1-1&keywords=d-link
These are the best for the price and they get the job done better than everything else I have tried without getting into really expensive business hardware. That modem is rock solid. Also the benefit of owning your own is that it pays for itself. You don't have the 8$ equipment rental fee anymore.
TL;DR buy that stuff I linked above and 90% of your issues will go away. I can handle over 800 different connections at once on that router. AND IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY IN THE LONG RUN.
They don't support the #1 reviewed router on Amazon
This router is cheaper than an RPi and will work better for you.
If you want just the wifi, set it to bridge mode and it will pass forward the connection.
Not for a LONG time, dude. If this gets dropped for some reason, it's the TP-Link TL MR3040 router, which you can very easily make into a pirate box.
I had a spare Apple router laying around. Haven't had issues at 30-40ft or so. WiFi is a tricky business, because no matter where you go, the environment will always be different for WiFi channels.
A lot of places are broadcasting on 2.4g or 5g. So having a router/ap that does both is probably your best bet for flexibility.
If you're wanting something simple and cheap, just look at some basic home routers like Linksys (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=twister_B07FTFK622?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1).
If you are willing to do a bit more pre-setup (one-time) and have a greater throw for your WiFi, I would suggest an ubiquiti edgerouter and Ubiquiti long range access point (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-Advanced-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00YFJT29C)
(https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Long-Range/dp/B015PRCBBI).
That'll get you DHCP and a longer distance than most retail routers.
If you need any more suggestions or have questions, let me know. I'm a certified network engineer.
Edit: the reason I like ubiquiti is because it scans the current environment for wifi channel conflicts and makes the appropriate adjustments.
Yo me compre el Asus Router AC 88U en Amazon y confirmo que recibo los 200mbs upload/download sin problemas con este router.
Y mis demas aparatos como tv,xbox,celular, tabletas funciona excelente, ademas incluye la app para gestionar desde el celular el router y es compatible con Alexa y Google Home.
Deje una reseña mas completa con mi compra verificada en la web de Amazon con todo y fotografias bajo el nombre de Roberto A. El 15 de sep del 2018.
Asus RT-AC88U Enrutador Inalámbrico 8 Puertos Gigabit https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EiqvDbD31K3DA
Figured. You can try to call back during the day and speak with a fiber engineer (if there is any due to the strike), and have them check to see if its self install ready.
Internet only you dont need their routers. The ONT is in/outside your property right? you can run a cat6 ethernet line from the ONT to your own router and be done with it. Their may be provisioning needed on VZ's end but that should be it.
My assumption would be they are defualting a tech out to not only run that line, but upgrade the ONT if its not rated for that speed.
For your own routers, i have a RT-AC68U Asus as well as many others, and its perfect. Otherwise i recommend the TP-Link archer C9 - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-AC1900-Archer-C9-Wireless/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698899&sr=8-2&keywords=ac1900+router
Both should be fine, my Asus AC68U covers my 2 story house with 5 bedrooms + basement perfectly, the router is on the 2nd floor. (moving it downstairs soon).
If you have a very large house - or old house with plaster & steel lath walls consider this - , big price but i've installed this for a few people in similar situations and it was great. http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC3100-Gigabit-Router-RT-AC88U/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464698973&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+ac+3100
ASUS Dual-Band Gigabit WiFi Gaming Router (AC3100) with MU-MIMO, supporting AiProtection network security by Trend Micro, AiMesh for Mesh WiFi system, and WTFast game Accelerator (RT-AC88U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_75BTBb4WAGGHM
This is what I use
I have an answer to this, but it's solved with money (and a bit of time). Almost all of the Arris modem/router combos are just trash... and there's nothing that can be done about it that I could determine. I just decided to buy my own equipment and my Internet hasn't had any problems since. No slowdowns, and no downtime. Here's what I got, but note that this equipment is actually super overkill and I think cheaper equipment could still do the job:
Modem:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Cable-Modem-CM1000-Compatible/dp/B0781VN7W5
Router/AP:
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-supporting-AiProtection-Accelerator-RT-AC88U/dp/B016EWKQAQ
I actually did buy the router used so that saved a bit of money. Your ISP will need to support the what modem you get, but Northland (which I assume you use) supports a good bit of modems, you just need to call them and give them your CMAC on the modem to activate it on their network. If you want to do this and need help just pm me.
Edit:
So CCIT does bring up a good point on the WIFI space being crouded. The router I bought performs extremely well in crowded environments, which was what was needed in my scenario. The modem was bought because it supports gigabit speeds.
I would just buy one of these off amazon. It's actually a real router mikrotik RB750Gr3 has the same features as Cisco, will require some learning.
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-Ethernet-Gigabit/dp/B01MSUMVUB/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502218641&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=miktrok+750gr3
I've had my D-Link DIR-655 for about 5-6 years. Never had any issues. Still works great. Would recommend.
That is not true, I get full gig speeds on my home router. I get sustained 122-124MB/s speed between my NAS and my desktop using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LIFB7S and before that I used a 35$ 1gig D-Link switch and a separate router with full gig speeds between computers. You do have to ensure you enable jumbo frames on your computer's NIC's.
This is essentially what I have. I got mine in late 2011, so it may have changed a bit or had a slight upgrade, but I'd say the vast majority of my online matches are flawless.
Whenever it seems to lag after a long time of not lagging, I notice someone drops out of the game and a new person comes in their place. I went about an hour or so with the same 3 other people last night, and didn't have a single bad match. Once one of them dropped out and another person came in, it immediately started to lag, so I'm guessing it was on their end.
Fully functional routers can have an average power consumption as low as 0,6W - see TL-MR3020, for example. There is no reason why even larger routers should consume 10+ times more power while serving no considerable traffic (standby). Even under full load, a well-engineered, 5-port, wireless-N router consumes no more than 3W.
That would be overkill for this person's situation.
I have this and it still mostly fine almost 7 years later for my SOHO at a fraction of the cost of yours (although age certainly has caught up to it, and I'm getting ready to replace it after almost 7 years). Something in this price range ($40-60) would be more than adequate for OP. Don't get the one I have as there are newer options in the price range
Unless OP or you have an unusually large house (which a repeater under $20 would solve), or have speeds above 300Mbps, your router was a waste of money.
Need to know how many devices are on the network and what is the average number of those being used at the same time to connect to the network and what they are doing.
I just bought this.
It works for us, but we only have 3 phones, 2 laptops, 2 PS3's and a XBOX 360 with a max of 2 of those streaming at once. Seems like you may need at least dual band N router
I would look into a higher grade access point.
The biggest issue with wifi is not the wireless strength, it's the processor in the access point. Most access points can only handle 1 device at near full quality and 2 devices at half quality. Instead, go for a wifi access point or router (put it in access point mode) with a higher benchmark.
Here are some router benchmarks. These are SOHO devices. You should be looking at throughput, not wireless signal decibel.
I also highly recommend looking through Amazon's reviews of products.
I'd go Asus Black Diamond ($50) for consumer grade. (I use it for 6 connections, rated for 8)
I have heard of but have not tested Ruckus or Ubiquiti for 40+ connections. (pricier)
I've lucked out with using Medialink routers. These cheapo $20 routers never crash and are pretty much set and forget. Also, they have excellent customer support. When ordering from Amazon I was contacted by them to make sure everything was going OK.
I recommend against:
D-Link
TP-Link
Linksys (discontinued)
Cisco Entry Level
It could be several things, but if you have a shitty modem and/or a shitty router that could be the issue. I had the same problem when I was using the modem provided by my ISP. I bought my own and I haven't had a problem since.
Here is my modem and router:
Modem
Router
They might not be the best, but I wasn't looking for the best, I was looking for something reliable and affordable. Hope this helps.
You could probably get away with a cheaper router.
The DD-WRT part includes some features like wifi signal power control and added security. You could get that same router without DD-WRT for around 40 bucks
I like the TP-Link WDR-4300. simultaneous dual-band wifi, gigabit, dual usb ports, runs openwrt. $65
> TP-LINK TL-MR3040
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4
Release an seeding OS firmware for the Arm sticks/SOCs (Rasbery Pi) and devices like the TP-Link MR3020 & TP-Link MR3040 and we can have this running in no time. Just load them up with massive storage full of media and leave the unit in the corner.
Here is a similar concept.
https://piratebox.cc/start
Fair enough. I would give this TP-Link a good look. It's only $40 You can find a great review of it here. Even though this router is technically a dual band, it is wise to consider it due to the internal specs. It uses the same CPU as the last gen of Apple's Airport. It also packa a healthy 128MB of RAM. This is the cheapest router that I know of that has 128MB of RAM.
To support these speeds, one would also need an N300 router.
I have a TPLink WDR3600, but if they're not going to be using the wired connection then the TPLink WDR3500 which only differs in its lack of gigabit ethernet is $15 cheaper.
Also, this is fun, but if OP lives somewhere with a lot of other WiFi routers around then these two routers have the ability to broadcast on both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz channels. So if she has an 802.11a/b/g/n card instead of the 802.11b/g/n, then they can connect on the 5GHz channel which is much less cluttered because most people only use the 2.4GHz channel.
As an example, this card does 5GHz, and this card does not. With a lot of nearby WiFi signals, I would opt for one of those TPLink routers and the first WiFi card. If instead they live in an area with well separated houses or neighbors who don't have WiFi, then the second card would be fine and can be used with any kind of 802.11n router. The performance difference between 2.4GHz and 5GHz is basically meaningless for what OP needs, except in the case of lots of interference from other signals. (FWIW, I live in a city and see two dozen 2.4GHz wifi signals but the only 5GHz one is mine. I get 55Mbps on the 5GHz channel and if I connect on the 2.4GHz channel then I get 40Mbps. Without interference, it should be 55Mbps on either one.)
Also note the 5GHz parts are always more expensive, because they also need the 2.4GHz parts to work with devices like most smartphones and most laptops.
I live in the Highlands and currently have their Ultimate 50 (50/5) package for $64/mo. I also own my own SBG6782-AC that I got for $60 on eBay.
My speeds are always above what I pay for, but I will be dropping them once Allo gets to my area. I know Windstream is also rolling out 1GB in certain areas, but they had their chance a long time ago. Now it's the principle of the matter. Even if they are cheaper than Allo, they should of invested earlier and not because they are about to lose customers that they have been fucking over for years.
http://www.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1750-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=dp_ob_title_home
Most on here would recommend purchasing your modem and router separately however.
Save yourself a huge headache and buy yourself your own equipment. Keep your own hardware and save yourself some rental fees each month and supply yourself with solid and reliable WiFi.
My equipment:
Spectrum has their recommended modems (which interface properly with them).
http://www.spectrum.net/support/internet/compliant-modems-charter-network/
I'm going to buy this router. It is capable of 802.11ac which is better than 802.11abgn. It's 5ghz instead of the 2.4ghz and can sustain higher bandwidth with less latency. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014MIBLSA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
For modem I chose this without much research, You can spend 20 dollars less on the non extreme model. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DACQM9M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
\^
This is important
If internet only, then the following are solid choices
If you have TV service, then things get more complicated.
I would suggest a full Ubiquiti Unifi Wifi setup. Who is the ISP? Depending on what they use for a modem/gateway, you could setup a Unifi Security Gateway(USG) as the main router and connect Unifi AP in the rooms with ethernet jacks where you want the most wifi. Unfi includes software that makes controlling and configuring the different AP effectively, and even securely from remote. If you have a fiber ISP with a gateway with SFP ports, I would suggest the USG Pro, otherwise the USG is more prudent. There are many different kinds of Unifi AP, from Unifi AC, to Unifi HD(Faster Wifi AC), Unifi LD(bit slower then AC but Longer Range) to Unifi Mesh when you need wifi coverage where you don't have a ethernet jack.
The main thing you need is computer with either Windows or OSX to run the controlling software. AFAIK the USG can record logs and configure AP, however you need the controlling software to interact with the USG and configure it in the first place.
If you have a dedicated PC that can always be on, then Ubiquiti Edge Router X(ERX). This would slightly complicate setup, but allow you separate hardware for LAN(ethernet) from WLAN(Wifi). There is the Unifi Network Management System (NMS) that could incorporate the different devices, but it's still in beta.
On the RPi, I've found that the limitation isn't the RPi or its USB 2.0 bus, it's the wifi adapter. I've been able to get 130+ Mbps on even an old RPi B (pre-+) using wired USB 3 adapters. Replacing one of those with a wifi adapter reduce throughput to 10 Mbps, and that's with a single connection. I tried Edimax, TP-Link and non-name generic adapters.
I've since found that the GLi mini travel routers are much easier to get going and offer far better performance at the $20-$40 and between price range. There are several antenna options to suit your layout, and they all run OpenWRT, so there are a host of open-source software options. The ability to enable or disable openvpn with a slider button is ideal. They also support a wifi-wifi bridge/routed configuration for dealing with hotel room portals and the like.
You could probably find a higher-performance wifi adapter for the RPi, but then you're starting to spend more money to maybe match the GLi router's performance. Keep in mind, nothing keeps you from using a RPi behind the router for doing other fun stuff. If you're after good, usable wifi for your setup though, I'd go with something else.
I appreciate the advice but I set the correct APN for statics in my region (so01.vzwstatic for any other folks in the southern states who stumble across this). I actually figured out what was going on on my own, no thanks to VZW! After installing the LTE Discovery app on my phone I found that the town I was trying to deploy the router in only has VZW LTE band 13 active, which my LTE router doesn't support. The reason everything worked as expected in my lab is because my lab gets good signal from VZW in bands 2, 4, and 13. So, I'm going to have to acquire a different modem that supports LTE band 13. I've got my eye on this particular model which appears to have support for everything.
That would be insane. That being said, you can just get one of these and do the same thing. The only benefit of the Unifi is that the controller auto-manages the failover switching. If you have unlimited bandwidth then who cares!
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Quad-Stream-Quad-core-Compatible/dp/B01M12RE4A
I had heard the opposite about the adapter's performance, but you're right, I'll reserve my judgement (and my money) until after some hands on reviews of the final product.
I would love to only spend $199, but I don't think that price is reasonable given the 60 GHz wireless in use. Here's a wireless router that does 60 GHz. You'd need to add to that cost an adapter for the device you would want it to communicate with.
Similarly, here are a pair of 60 GHz wireless HDMI adapters. At $230, those only support 1080p at 60 FPS, not even close to providing a good VR experience. Additionally, they would only stream video and audio, and not any of the other communication that takes place between the headset and the PC.
The fact that the Vive Wireless Adapter is able to transmit extremely low latency video at Vive Pro resolution is truly impressive (assuming it does it well) and it's leaps and bounds better than anything else currently on the market. I'm honestly surprised they didn't price it higher, hence my speculation that they're not making much money on them.
This suggestion is depending on your skill. I've been very happy with Mikrotiks. Documentation isn't the best but its not bad at all. Plenty of helpful users out there if you have questions.
I will say, this is starting to step into the advanced user sort of platform. You're going to need to read and understand what you are doing. But if you need help, we are here and their forums are very active.
I'm currently using this Mikrotik. There are cheaper versions but this one suited my needs. Here is a non-wireless version in case you wanted to put in your own individual AP: hEX. Of course, this is assuming you have your own modem.
Kudos on thinking ahead on this kind of stuff.
It's a more "advanced" router / firewall but the Mikrotik equipment is very powerful, especially for how much it costs. It's not a router common in a home setting, but lots of ISP's use the higher end models for the backbone of their networks.
This will outperform any off the shelf router you can buy at the stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-Ethernet-Gigabit/dp/B01MSUMVUB/
Since you have a month before the event this would give you time to get familiar with the router and make any changes you need.
The router doesn't have wireless, but my suggestion is to always use a separate AP for wireless anyways. Get a Unifi AP::
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/
Now your thinking "I said there's going to be 6-8 people, and that router only has 4 lan ports!" Correct, you should use a switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Replacement-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6
The main benefit of running all these things separate from each other is you don't have to have them central to your gaming. The router can stay with the modem and just 1 cable has to run out to the switch.
Now if you are going to do this more often or want higher end gear, let me know and i'll offer up a different set of suggestions.
"What are some of the first things I should do?"
At the very least get a Pi-Hole.
1 shield alone has requested over 3,000 DNS requests in less than 24 hrs. Most of them completely worthless to the end user.
You are a product to be sold at the highest bidding. Its nothing but data collection.
​
Your privacy should be important to you.
I travel with this guy: HooToo Wireless Travel Router,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LHG47K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s not “secure” by any means, but it allows me to spread plane Wi-Fi from a single device only, to my phone laptop and tablet without constant switching. Provides plenty of coverage for a hotel room, and includes a battery so you can charge your phone off of it.
I second everything on this list. It’s pretty great. Here’s a few additions.
For watching streaming on hotel TVs. https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Lightning-Digital-AV-Adapter/dp/B009WHV3BM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hdmi+adapter+for+iphone&qid=1569345682&sprefix=hdmi+ad&sr=8-1
For making your own WiFi from the hotels lan lines and doubles as a big battery backup. https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-10400mAh-External-Performance/dp/B074LHG47K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=hootoo+wireless+travel+router&qid=1569345830&sprefix=hootoo&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFXUVpYTzIxV0hPVVUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MjY2MzExTUJSNUFVWjRUQkxHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDcwODcySjJBT1BHVDVCU1JIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Great flashlight. https://www.amazon.com/NEBO-Redline-FLEX-450-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B07M9C5M19/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=nebo+flashlight+dual+fuel&qid=1569345967&sr=8-3
For routers, anything with decent reviews on Amazon will probably get the job done. I tend to go with Asus and TP-Link, but there are lots of good models out there. I've had mixed results with Netgear and Belkin in the past, but worth it if you find one on a good deal.
For a modem, anything DOCSIS 3.0 or up should do for most people. Eg:
Of course, if you have specific high-end needs, these might not quite meet those, but I doubt whatever xfinity has you using would either.
FYI the following is an RT-ac68u
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527043563&sr=1-1&keywords=tmobile+ac1900&dpID=41Lu%252B1wUMtL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Asus Routers can do this. I don't know if they can on stock firmware, but I know with Merlin firmware, they do. Here's a screenshot of mine.
The link for the one I own is here. (Ignore the AiMesh stuff. That's another firmware that Asus releases and you don't have to install. The option just means that this router is compatible with it.)
Merlin firmware is super easy to install, is super stable, and is based on the stock firmware. It's easy to go back and forth between stock and Merlin as well.
You should get a Linux-based router (like the ASUS AC86u) and block your access to those servers so you are never matched on the connections. I’m on the U.S. West Coast and use it to block servers in Southeast Asia and sometimes Europe.
For now:
Recommend Synology 2600ac
Or the Netgear listed in this article:
https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/
The 86u is also very good and in the same price range.
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-band-Dual-core-AiProtection-Compatible-RT-AC86U/dp/B0752FD3XJ
The one router should be enough for your home now.
When you move: you’ll probably need to
add an AP or two, and install some cabling: that’s a big house.
If you get the Asus, recommend you try Merlin firmware for it.
Anything with 802.11ac. With 3x3 802.11ac assuming both your client (computer or device) supports 3x3 MIMO, you may get around 450Mbps~500Mbps max over 5Ghz 802.11ac WiFi. If you have 4x4 you can go a bit faster maybe in the 800's
I suggest the Asus RT-86U which is a fairly new router (replaces the older RT-68U) with 3 external antennas and one internal antenna for the 4'th of the 4x MIMO so you'll get good range, but that 4th MIMO at closer range if you even have something that use 4x4 (most things don't.) It's a fine product and one of the best performing without going overkill (which you're welcome to do.)
https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC86U-Wireless-Dual-Core-Processor-AiProtection/dp/B0752FD3XJ/
https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/RT-AC86U/
If you want gigabit networking, you'll have to use ethernet. It's the only way. You can get a wireless adapter with 4x4 MIMO that you can add to your PC if you need wireless. https://www.asus.com/us/Networking/Wireless-Adapters-Products/
I know these things talk about greater than 1Gbps networking, but there's just no way. With 4x4 802.11ac 5Ghz you can come close, but you'll find you're getting sub 500Mbps most of the time even at close range. I've tried lots of wireless APs and never done much better. I think I got a 600Mbps with a Ubiquity Wireless AP doing 3x3 MIMO and 6ft.
If $200 is too expensive, then I there are less expensive models that will work nearly as well but at this price you'll do about as well as you can without going to tri-band which is sort of a waste unless you're really using a second channel for high bandwidth streaming. A dual-band really does all you should need.
Stay away from mesh networking systems as they give you coverage at the expense of speed performance and what you need is short-range high performance if I'm not mistaken. Also, you can get 12dbi replacement external antennas for the ASUS on Amazon that will greatly extend your (at least 2.4Ghz) wifi range if you need it. I have them and it knocked out my dead spots.
Check out https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-reviews for reviews and more info on routers.
I hope this helps. Shopping for a router is a can of worms. I've worked with a lot of routers in my line of work and I just really like the ASUS for price, performance, and feature set. I keep getting new routers and going back to the Asus. Netgear is the only other brand I'd recommend, personally. A good deal on a high end Netger is worth considering. Check out the reviews on Smallnetbuilder before you buy.
It won't matter what router you run 10Mbps isn't enough to stream and game. I run an ASUS AC2900 now and I love it but you have to be comfortable enough to set up your routers QoS system to even prioritize your gaming or you will always have this issue going up against streaming.
Here's another candidate that's looking increasingly attractive:
$48 T-Mobile (AC-1900) By ASUS Wireless-AC1900
I use a Raspberry Pi that runs the Kodi operating system and added a cheap remote and USB receiver from China. Very cheap and reliable. I only ever load media on to a thumb drive. I tried running an USB cable from my phone but didn't have much luck.
I also have a portable battery bank that has a built in router. I assume that it would allow you to use your Apple TV just like at home and it only cost about $40. I also use it by placing it outside to grab wifi signals that all my devices can use inside. Wifi doesn't travel too well through the metal skin of the RV especially the weak signals where we camp.
This one
T-Mobile T-Mobile (AC-1900) By ASUS Wireless-AC1900 Dual-Band Gigabit Router, AiProtection with Trend Micro for Complete Network Security (Certified R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mjr2LOxYTQzUy
Modem: SB6141
Router: NightHawk AC2300 (R7000P)
That'll more than support your networks speeds while also giving you access to the current latest in wifi tech such as AC wifi and MU-MIMO.
the tracerts are ok, btw not to be superparanoid, but erase them. It shows vaguely what neighborhood you live in.
I really don't know sorry :( Ok. You probably shouldn't do this but.. If you got a spare system you were planning to reformat or whatever, just release the IP on the router, and plug in that spare pc directly. I am not sure if you can do this in time.. But.. I strongly suspect you will have no issues. Not that you want to sit there 10+ hours with a crappy laptop.
If you want a replacement, there's a Tmobile branded AC1900
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520648629&sr=8-1&keywords=tmobile+ac1900
$60 for a refurb asus. I believe this model works for a MESH router too, I was considering picking a spare. Not the newest, but AC so reasonably fast and cheap. If you prefer a new one I'd go to wirecutter and check because I don't keep up with the stuff.
If you are looking for a very good router, look no further than the Netgear R7000p (AC2300) . It is the newer version of the proven R7000 (AC1900). I have had an R7000 for 5 years, and it is phenomenal. I have 4 YouTube, Netflix and Xbox One streaming almost every day with no issues ever. I did Port Triggering (not Port Forwarding) because I have 2 Xbox One's on Xbox Live at the same time. I did all of the ports and time them out after 20 minutes of non activity. Port Forwarding only works if you have one. The R7000 is a little cheaper, but the new MU-MIMO is worth the difference if you are going to be streaming on a mobile phone.
Link on Amazon: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC2300 Smart WiFi Router – MU-MIMO Dual Band Gigabit (R7000P) Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa and Circle Smart Parental Controls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NA80JML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NbEVzb4SZZZ95
Edit: Mobile phone fat fingered some spelling.
this is a rebranded ac68u
you can reflash to stock firmware (not too hard if you're good at following guides), and install merlin firmware.
on clients with 3x3 antennas, i get over 300Mbps. the only potential downside is these won't do gigabit routing if NAT is enabled, but that's pretty much a given at this price point. I'm using an edgerouter ER-X as my router, and this as my wifi access point. the good thing about the edgerouter is if you have centurylink fiber, you don't have to use their shitty modems, since it'll do VLAN PPPoE from the setup wizard. (pretty sure the merlin firmware can do this too, but since i can't hit gigabit with the AC68u, i didn't try)
EDIT: as for the recommendation for the RT-AC87U, there was some reason i read that in practice it's not actually better than the AC68U
EDIT2: i have a spare ER-X i'm trying to get rid of for $35 shipped.
I recently upgrade to this Nighthawk after a newlly installed fiber line made me ditch my old router setup. I literally just hit bestbuy to grab something to see if I could realistically get 100/100 like I was getting wired to my ONT. Now I was already planning on returning the Netgear one simply because it’s a bit older and it works fine, but not set on all the reviews on it. Is this AC3100 just a similar router or significantly better.
I did notice the 3100 has 5Ghz 2100mbps/2.4 ghz 1000mbps compared to the 1600/600 or so found on the N7000.
Anyone have experience with both?
Consider something like this: http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-655-Extreme-Gigabit-Wireless/dp/B000LIFB7S
It still has the router/wireless functionality, but you can swap the included antennas (probably only a 2dBi gain) and replace them with 5's or even 9's if you're feeling frisky. Putting a parabolic dish on the back of your existing access point turns it into a directional antenna, with the beam width based on the parabola of the dish you're using. Not to mention that you need to tune the focal length of the dish-to-antenna (how far away you should place the radio from the dish), it's going to be more hassle than it's worth. If you really wanted a directional signal, you can always buy a directional antenna for the D-Link (or whatever), and you would know exactly how many degrees the beam is and where you need to place the antennas. No sense reinventing the wheel.
If you had a little cash to spend, you might consider something like this: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-MCAB1001-Coax-Ethernet-Adapter-Black/dp/B001N85NMI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1320344857&sr=8-3
I've got these running in my house and they are AWESOME. I was able to move all the network infrastructure (cable modem, firewall, access point) to an upstairs room while providing a hard network line to my PC in the downstairs living room with no speed issues at all. And since I'm not burying my antenna someplace where I can't see it, wireless signal has improved.
Since getting rid of the shitty modem Comcast leased to me, I get consistent speeds of ~55mbps. When I used Comcast's router, it fluctuated like crazy. Best investment I've made in 2014. Also the installation process is very easy. It was just plug n play for me. Worst case scenario is having to call your ISP and give them the modem's serial number to authenticate. Should be easy to find a list of compatible modems for your ISP.
For a modem I use: Motorola SB6121
And for a router I use: DLink DIR 655
I love the D-Link DIR-655. I cannot speak to your "steel beam and concrete" concerns, but have been using it happily in a duplex here for several months. One caveat: the blue front-panel lights on this thing are !bright! so you will also have a new night-light.
Hi,
Ignore the folks telling you to buy a router that you can flash with Open-WRT, DD-WRT etc. That is almost never necessary and just causes additional headaches. Keep it simple.
Here's the cable modem you need for Comcast. This is a DOCSIS 3 modem so will support Comcast's fastest speeds that are available: http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411672350&sr=1-1&keywords=motorola+surfboard
Here's a good wireless router that I use, never had any issues with it. Good range: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-N300-WNR2000/dp/B001AZP8EW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411672530&sr=1-1&keywords=wnr2000v3
This nice thing with this one is if you have a large enough space that you are trying to cover and this wireless router doesn't do it, you can always pick up another one, run a network cable between them, and turn on "Repeater" mode on the new one. This allows it to act as a cheap wireless repeater without interfering with the addressing that your first router is doing.
Most other wireless routers can do this as well if you know how to set it up manually, but this is a nice "idiot proof" method.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I just moved out of a Comcast area so am still very familiar with what their requirements are :) I'll actually be posting my own cable modem up for sale on Amazon soon!
I think it is this one
Wrong. You can get a router that basically can output better wifi than 99.99% of us americans could even GET.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-N300-WNR2000/dp/B001AZP8EW For 32 dollars.
Range > speed. If you live in a small apartment, it would be a good option to make sure that the router can cover the entire apartment.
Make sure that the router is 2.4 Ghz and has N network. The router you chose has a max down speed of 150 Mbps, which is most likely faster then your ISP subscription.
The WR841N that was linked is a good choice.
Personally, I am a fan of Netgear, so the N300 is the best wireless router for the money.
Something like this : http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG6580-Docsis-Router/dp/B0040IUI46?ie=UTF8&keywords=ARRIS%20Surfboard&qid=1463430394&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5
is probably the cheapest I would recommend going. That's what I have setup at my dad's place, it's an all-in-one, so you wouldn't need to buy a separate router.
You could also maybe get the SB6121 along with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-WNR3500L-Open-Source-WNR3500Lv2-Processor/dp/B002RYYZZS/ref=sr_1_22?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463430791&sr=1-22&keywords=Netgear
that would be very slightly cheaper I think? But ultimately probably about the same or worse performance wise.
The Netgear N300 has been absolutely amazing for me. $65 and my wireless has never been better.
Depends on how much you want to spend, but I use this. Works fine, I use it with the ps3. Generally no lag.
No need to spend almost $100 or more on a router. Buy a few of these: http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Router-Range-Extender-Medialink/dp/B0044YU60M and each of you have your own router. If you put one on channel 2, one on channel 11 and one on channel 4 or 8, you should be good. Each router should let you add a couple dozen devices. I can't tell you an exact number, because I've yet to have any device be kicked off. They work best if you turn them off and let them sit for a few minutes every month.
Plug one router into the back of the modem, then the other two routers into the back of the first one.
That reminds me of my setup.
Modem -> Router(Living Room) - 75ft ethernet-> Router(Bedroom) ->ps4, laptop etc.
The router I has has a feature that enables it to act as a switch. And to my surprise it also allows for a wireless signal. The only downside was that I now have 3 available ethernet port instead of 4.
Here's the router I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Router-Repeater-Extender/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410741475&sr=8-1&keywords=medialink
It has shit range though, probably 20-30ft indoors.
[Apparently this one.] (http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Router-802-11n-Internal/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1347912570&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+router)
I've had a router in my saved shopping car for about a month ($50 when it went in).
Then the price jumped to this. I'm not quite sure what happened.
This is the live link now. Both by the same seller.
From buying and then hating lots of routers I have came to the conclusion that about the only thing that matters to me personally is reliability. I absolutely hate having to reset a router because my connection has slowed or stopped functioning. This is surprisingly rare in routers. I have owned the below router for 4 months and have only had to reset it twice. I would highly recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YU60M/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The WRT54GL is still sold new. This can only do 802.11g (54Mbps max yay!) and has fast ethernet ports. Don't like that? Well you can have this Amazon's Choice router that offers 300Mbps wifi performance on only fast ethernet ports.
But the maximum speed rating for wireless is deceptive. It depends on a number of factors such as your channel width, signal strength, and interference. In order to get 300Mbps, the router must operate 40MHz channels and have a strong signal free of interference AND have no devices negotiated to a lower speed.
Right now my TV has negotiated to 300Mbps, and it probably should get that as it is the only device on my wifi at the moment, and it's on the 5GHz band, which has much less interference due to weaker signal propagation and more bandwidth. If it was on the 2.4GHz band, I wouldn't be using a 40MHz channel due to interference concerns, and I would still be subject to HEAVY interference on the band, both from co-channel interference as there are only 3 usable 2.4GHz channels, and cross-channel interference from idiots. Even in a much less crowded environment you can still wind up with interference on the 2.4GHz band. And once you add walls into play, yeah you're going to be hurting.
The cheap "300Mbps" routers like the one I linked above don't do the 5GHz band, so realistically they won't get anywhere near that. Under ideal conditions I would expect them to get around 100Mbps over wifi.
Browser-based speed tests show my internet speed at somewhere around 150Mbps, and this is on DOCSIS technology that is available in most places. I actually have much faster available in my area, but between the cable company charging an arm and a leg and the fact that I'd have to get my landlord's permission to get cable pulled for fiber internet, this is what I have. It however is still fast enough that a cheap router will absolutely be a bottleneck for me.
So yeah, the customer's choice of wifi router can absolutely cause problems.
You could simply buy a router (or reuse an old router) to bridge devices to your Wi-Fi network.
> running this as a media receiver
I don't understand what you plan to do. A media receiver is a TV or TV-box, a radio, etc.
edit: as an example, this model costs $39.99. Flash it with DD-WRT for OpenVPN support.
I've got a TP-Link Router with DD-WRT firmware loaded onto it. Should be able to do what you are asking, except the external hardrive would live with the router. I highly recommend updating your router firmware to DD-WRT. Tons of great things this firmware can do, just be sure the router you get is supported.
The only other issue is going ot be the HDMI connection from your computer to the TV. In this senario, I would look at getting HDMI over ethernet. Something like this. I have not personally used the residential versions of these, so I can't make any recommendations, but this allows you to extend to 300', whereas a HDMI cable limits you to about 50'
This if you have any phones that are AC band capapble. Or these1,2 should be fine.
Get a 3 pack of Unifi APs, (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EORRBW/)
You've got three to work with, so put one near your television, one near your desk, and one near your other television or bed.
As for the network, configure your SSIDs to use a single 20 MHz wide band, sometimes referred to as HT20, instead of two 20 MHz wide bands, referred to as HT40 (20 + 20).
Keeping the bandwidth (literally the width of the RF spectral band!) smaller means that in the 11-channel range it can utilize, it's looking for a smaller contiguous space to operate in than would a 40 MHz set up, and that's going to be more likely to happen. That is worth a shot for any access point you use.
Can't spend $200? Well... I've seen them on eBay for $50 a piece. No matter what though, you should go with multiple APs instead of a more powerful one anyway. Attacking your problem with an AP that just "shouts louder" will probably do more to exacerbate the issue than it does to address it.
Still? Sigh... It's possible that you're suffering from shitty router syndrome. It's a very common ailment that can be contracted from retail stores across the country, and the symptoms are often attributed to environmental issues or blamed, often incorrectly, on the ISP. Given the number of devices you have connecting, it's a remote possibility. To address this problem, the best bang for your buck that I've found is in this product, flashed to DD-WRT, which is supported out of the box and done by doing nothing more than a firmware upgrade with the dd-wrt bin file: (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088CJT4U/)
Good luck. Reply or PM if you've got any questions.
Same here, but I got this one ... it's one of my most important travel items.
Camrangers are just rebranded TP-Link routers (as in, if you open a camranger the tp-link branding is literaly still inside) and their custom app.
You can get a router for $25 and DSLRdashboard for free. Flash the router firmware in 5 minutes with this tutorial, and you've saved yourself about $275 over a Camranger.
I'm on Nikon and Android, so it works perfectly for me. I've talked to one person that thought he had heard that DSLRdashboard won't work between a 5D and ipad unless it's jailbroken, but I found this post from someone doing just that, and no other accounts that say it doesn't work, so I can't say for sure.
You can also test out the app before you go through the trouble with the router, or if range isn't important, forgo the router altogether and just run tethered with a usb OTG plug. That's what I do most of the time.
The direct route is to buy the MicroUSB>Ethernet adapter assuming your mobile device supports it.
Another solution is to pick up a travel router (optionally with a built in battery like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4 ) . Just plug that into the new router you're setting up. Set it to an SSID saved on your phone/tablet and configure the router that way. Make sure you're using it in AP mode to minimize any complications. If you're really savvy you could make it one button by scripting it in Android (assuming that's your mobile OS) to log into the router with the default pass and configure the router to whatever settings are standard.
Any home wireless router will do exactly that, convert from ethernet to wifi. As for battery powered, that's a harder requirement.
Maybe this portable router would do the job : TP-Link TL-MR3040 Battery powered router.
Yes /u/legendofchin97 and /u/Heiminator you can create your own local wireless network and use it for filesharing.
A device like this could work, and as a bonus it has a small built in battery:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-MR3040-Wireless-Portable-Compatible/dp/B0088PPFP4
It it does add extra cost and component, but probably would be the easiest way. Tons of other uses for this as well.
Edit: Just saw that you didn't want to carry a portable access point with you, so sorry about that; however, I will say this is quite small, fits easily in your palm and the battery can last for a few hours on average.
TP-LINK TL-MR3040 3G/4G Wireless N150 Portable Router, Battery Powered, AP/WISP/Router Mode, Compatible with Selected ATT/Verizon/Sprint/T-Mobile USB Modems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088PPFP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_juSfvb0CAFEKM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088PPFP4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_juSfvb0CAFEKM
Maybe? I used to have one, but never used it in that fashion. I think the ERL will support dual WAN failover.
http://dslrcontroller.com/guide-wifi_mr3040.php
I ordered the TP-Link TL-MR3040 from Amazon and it arrived today. I just got back from testing it out in the field with a 5D Mark III broadcasting to my Nexus 10 running DSLR Controller and it worked beautifully. It's always worked wired without a problem but now it even works wirelessly.
Sorry but I only have These Instructions on how to get DSLR Controller to work with an iPad.
I have heard (sorry, I don't have any sources) that the very small wifi dongles use a lot of processor time and board power, and that they simply aren't great for the RPi 2. I've certainly had a lot of trouble with them.
I've been using a https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PPFP4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (with open source firmware) configured in bridge mode. It's had MUCH better network performance then the dongles I've tried.
If you're comfortable with a little router hackery, I suggest this approach (but probably with a newer router than that one).
I just flashed a MR3040, it's basically the same thing, for 25$ on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PPFP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's good for quick backups and moving files around. I leave it on in my bag and log in from time to time to see if anyone noticed it.
If you've got $45, amazons got this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098QV038
OP could use one of these http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3500-Wireless-Router-300Mbps/dp/B0098QV038
Throw in a cheap 5ghz adapter if the client computer doesn't have it built in:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811UTC-Dual-Band-Connectivity-Exceeding/dp/B00FW6T36Y
$55 for dual-band is quite a deal.
I would recommend staying away from any of the modem/router combos. Mainly if one of the components goes bad you'll need to replace the whole thing.
I'm going on the assumption that you do not have the Comcast Voice (telephone) service, you can't go wrong with the SURFboard SB6183, SURFboard SB6190, or if you want to go cheap the Zoom 5341J is a good modem.
As for WiFi.. depends on your needs.. how many users, how big your house is, how much coverage is needed.. You can get something relatively low cost such as the TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 or you can spend a ton of cash on something like this monster ASUS RT-AC5300.
thanks that's cool but i guess the more i think about it the less i want to drop so much on a wifi router. it's really not going to have heavy use, just web browsing, streaming and such.
would either of these work well (i.e. good reliable connections)?
This TP
Or perhaps this ASUS
Arris DOCSIS 3.0 SURFboard Cable Modem and Wi-Fi Router - White (SBG6782-AC) $99.99 at checkout
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU
SBG6782-AC but I can't recommend it. Every few months, I have a day where it decides to reboot every couple hours. It's only being used as a bridge to a pfsense box right now, but the built-in wireless wasn't as bad as I'd expect.
Check out ARRIS SURFboard SBG6782AC DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi AC1800 Router
combo
Note: I have the older version(non-wifi) with a router but it is great. This one is a modem and router in one but as I do not own it I can not comment on it directly. I am always a little iffy on the combo 2 in 1 but reviews look good though. If you do go this route, don't cut corners by getting the black model.
My current setup which is a little bit more:
ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging - White
modem
TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 Dual Band Wireless AC Gigabit Router, 2.4GHz 450Mbps+5Ghz 1300Mbps, 2 USB Ports, IPv6, Guest Network
router
I can't speak about the charges, but a great retail modem that has a built in AC Router is the Arris SBG6782-AC. You can find it on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-Surfboard-SBG6782-AC-Packaging/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428341668&sr=8-1&keywords=SBG6782-AC
I'd recommend either the WRT1200AC (if you want to save a few bucks) or the WRT1900AC (if you want better performance), both from Linksys' "WRT" line. Either one will work great (in my experience at least).
I see. Thanks for the explaination.
My questions then, is, what am I actually getting in the pfSense gear with the higher price. For example, if I got an SG-1000 and one of these Ubiquiti WAPs, what am I getting that I would in, say, a Linksys AC1900 at half the price. Hardware performance wise. (I realize it's also pfSense vs DDWRT)
If you want to stay in the same ecosystem, here’s my recommendation for Ubiquity. You may need more than 1 AP depending on the layout of the house, walls and placement.
Modem: ARRIS SURFboard Gigabit Docsis 3.1 Cable Modem, 10 Gbps Max Speed, Approved for Cox, Spectrum and Xfinity, (SB8200 Frustration Free) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DY16W2Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdcqDbMF39946
Router: Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Switch for non PoE gear: Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZBLO0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7fcqDbNRQ3ZRH
Switch for PoE gear: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MicqDbTHS34TA
Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhcqDb6EEP86C
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway Pro (USG-PRO-4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD7KBbP85NRW5
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch - 24 Ports... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZUQ24?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Just setup your VPN on this, and plug whatever your are going to torrent with in the lan port or WIFI.
http://www.amazon.com/GL-MT300N-Standard-pre-installed-Repeater-Tethering/dp/B01AL7P1FU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465071553&sr=8-1&keywords=openwrt
Instructions here:
https://tokyobreeze.wordpress.com/2015/01/15/install-openvpn-in-a-router-with-4mb-flash/
Nice thing is that if the VPN drops, the firewall on the router won't forward traffic from the LAN side.
I use a travel router - https://www.amazon.com/GL-MT300N-Converter-Pre-installed-Performance-Compatible/dp/B01AL7P1FU
It can either connect to the hotel WiFi or ethernet, and then share that with one wired and as many wireless devices as you like (within reason). Captive portal only has to be done once. Basically, the router takes the IP address from the hotel DHCP server, and then hides all other devices using NAT to that IP address.
Has the added advantage of offering OpenVPN built in, so you can encrypt all of your traffic and avoid any URL filtering or logging that the hotel could otherwise do.
You could also get this: https://www.amazon.com/GL-MT300N-Converter-Pre-installed-Performance-Compatible/dp/B01AL7P1FU
Plug jetpack into that, plug the mini router into whatever router you already have and you're good to go.
I see a few travel routers out there with vpn.
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-MT300N-Pre-installed-Performance-Compatible/dp/B01AL7P1FU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07794JRC5/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07794JRC5&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=VGQMB3HEWV5G8Q8CNFXW&pd_rd_wg=l5cdk&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=4uV3l&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=ce4a151b-b900-11e8-b021-4fd414aa6d60
Edit. Not saying these are the best ones. But it's a start point.
The other option would be a raspberry pi based DIY variant.
Old link but proof of concept. https://makezine.com/projects/browse-anonymously-with-a-diy-raspberry-pi-vpntor-router/
I only need the service for the next 6 months or so, till we get the fiber service hooked up. So I grabbed a cheap velocity modem. I bridged the connection with a MT300N that I had laying around, then erthernet connected to my dd-wrt router. I believe it can be directly bridged to a dd-wrt router that has a usb port, but I'm too lazy, everything is working beautifully. I'm pulling 50+mb/15mb.
This is an option a lot of people don't like (because it's not a Chrome-based solution) but it's worth considering: Get a cheap travel router capable of working with OpenVPN protocols and use your VPN at the router level when you need it.
I have a cheap, powerful router that I love: GLi Mini Travel Router GL-MT300N. Here's a non-referral Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AL7P1FU/
It's $19.99 now but is often cheaper.
Tiny, light-weight, can be run from your computer's USB port or via a cheap cell phone backup battery for hours and hours and hours.
I use it as frequently at home as I do when on the road.
I use this router with my VPN:
https://amzn.com/B01AL7P1FU
It work flawlessly.
This might work for you.
I posted a few days ago about using an LTE modem....Here
So far I like it, but it's definitely a YMMV.
/u/dangerusty, replied to my post and pointed out an interesting solution to the "unlimited" data cost dilemma. You would pair the Mobley with one of the different flavors of AT&T SIM which are "unlimited". It's available used on Ebay as well is the OBDII power adapters. (The Mobley was originally designed to plug into the OBDII plug in your car for power.) I don't know if it's a problem or not but it doesn't seem to have external antenna. I also don't think it will erase the depriortization issue, although I'm not sure of all the details.
Another inriguing option I've been toying with (in my mind) is a 4G LTE module in a USB adapter, Sierra Wireless has Windows 10 drivers for the device, and maybe another OS. This would only work on a W10. For my situation (single laptop) this would be nearly prefect. The 4G LTE module is a Category 6 device (Cat 6 uses band aggregation so it's faster than the Netgear I'm testing).
If your into tinkering, another thing I've been toying with (in my mind) is building a modem/router using this Mikrotik motherboard. Install the Sierra Wireless 4G LTE module (along with your SIM) and appropriate Routerboard OS.
Near turnkey solutions might be a Mofi or one of the Cradlepoints.
Whatever device you decide to try, compare the bands it receives with the bands your desired carrier offers. Here is a tool to find out what frequency/bands your carrier supports, but that band may not be available in your area. AT&T (and other GSM carriers) seem to be the most versatile, Verizon is not very friendly to Bring Your Own Device (BYOD), unless it's a former Verizon device in good standing.
Disclaimer: This isn't an official plan so remember it is possible that at anytime this loophole could go away at any time. They do not support this plan, most at&t employees will not know about this loophole and will discourage you from trying.
​
Go to walmart, target, best buy or wherever is convenient and get yourself a prepaid sim card kit (they are around $10). You might want to wait on buying the sim card until after you buy your hotspot as most hotspots will come with a preinstalled sim card that will likely work.
​
Get yourself a hotspot. I reccomend the AT&T nighthawk because it has ethernet and I assume you want to hook it into your existing network.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/at-t-nighthawk-lte-mobile-hotspot-router/6212403.p?skuId=6212403
​
Another option that gives you some options for multiple carriers would be something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/MOFI4500-4GXeLTE-SIM4-Router-T-Mobile-Verizon-Embedded/dp/B01EY11K40/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542823404&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=mofi+4500+verizon
​
If you have an at&t tablet with an LTE modem this is much easier but if not you will need an imei number of a working tablet. If that imei is for an LTE ipad go here:
​
https://dcp2.att.com/OEPNDClient/pages/A-00T.jsp?version=0.13693307204867577&version=0.15959132455818992
​
If that tablet is an android LTE tablet go here:
​
https://buyasession.att.com/sbd/unauth/ShowLogin.action
​
If you don't have a tablet you can generally find an imei number of one by searching google or ebay and changing one of the numbers at the end and then verifying it using an imei calculator like this one to generate the correct check bit:
https://www.imei.info/calc
​
You will need to provide them with the imei of a tablet that is compatible with AT&T's network and the ICCID number on the sim card you buy. Once you put in those numbers it will ask you what plan you want. You want to choose the plan as you see here:
https://i.imgur.com/izKRnIG.png
​
Once you have signed up just stick the sim in the hotspot and you will have amazing internet access.
​
**Note you will be behind carrier grade NAT so you won't have a public facing IP address and you won't be able to do any port forwarding which can be problematic when gaming but it will work amazingly for everything else.
​
Also Verizon has an official unlimited hotspot option now but it's twice the price. Might be an option though depending on coverage and if the at&t plan goes away.
https://www.reddit.com/r/verizon/comments/9vy4tw/verizon_prepaid_hotspot_new_unlimited_plan/
​
Feel free to message me if you run into any snags. I don't use mine as much anymore because I have fiber at my house now but I have a cheap hotspot that I picked up for portability that I use for my daughter on long car trips or when we go camping or whatever.
​
Hope this is helpful
​
>How exactly would I install or use something like the MOFI 4500?
Basically you get a compatible SIM, install it in the Mofi, configure it, and you're ready to go. Configuration is often as easy as logging into the Mofi and changing the default passwords with the rest being plug and play. If it doesn't fire right up things can get a little fiddly as Mofi documentation is not great.
>Is this what I want? MOFI4500? Is it just a router that picks up the signal from the tower and turns it into a regular router?
Yes that's it, it's basically like a normal cellular hotspot except is has ethernet ports and can use an external antenna. The external antenna is the key part for you, probably.
>Could I attach a stronger directional antenna to it such as This?
Yes you can. Make sure to get a compatible cable (example)
>Also, what would I do about the Verizon sim card? Isn't it possible to get an unlimited one somewhere?
If you don't care about unlimited you can just get one from Verizon. You could buy a hotspot plan and just take it out of their hotspot. Not sure if they would sell you a bare SIM with service, never tried. They will throttle you to 600Kb after 10GB of data.
If you want unlimited then you're into something like Unlimitedville or grey market eBay (example, this is not an endorsement). The grey market sellers are often happy to send you just the SIM versus a whole hotspot. Note the risk with those guys is there is no contract, so if they terminate service and disappear with your money you have no recourse. But, you pay month to month so generally your risk is limited to one month's fees.
​
I dunno, $445 isn't too bad
I have only ever used ASUS and Netgear routers because that's all my brother uses in his security company and on his servers he uses Cisco switches. Cisco does make a few consumer routers but there's not enough of them to come to a conclusion on reliability and longevity. I have also heard good things about TP-Link and Linksys. As with anything that works and works well, you're realistically looking at about 60-120 bucks for a router that's going to give you excellent connectivity for years to come and also not be so stupidly expensive and unnecessary like this thing.
Depends on your ISP and your infrastructure. Internet generally travels over either Fiber Optics or via Cat5 or Cat6 UTP or TP (stands for Twister Pair, with U meaning they can be unshielded).
​
A cat5 or cat6 is going to be the type of cable that you see go into your PC. Cat5 has a bandwidth limit of 1 Gbps (1000 Mbps) while cat6 has a limit of 10 Gbps. Speeds up to 1000 Mbps can be achieved only up to 100 meters or so after which you get unstable connections due to signal degradation which is fine for internal networks. However your provider will likely need to provide more bandwidth to your building as they might be servicing other clients, not just you. That's where Fibre Optics come in as they can be laid down in stretches of over 200 meters at lower bandwidths and if you stick to 100 meters, then you can go up as high as 100 Gbps.
​
So your ISP generally needs to have fibre optics come into your building to be able to provide a 1 Gbps service. However in order for you to be able to utilize that service you also need a router that is capable of working with that traffic (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUMVUB/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_.qehDb9M55J0V)
​
Generally the ISP charges quite a bit more for a gigabit connection so keep that in mind.
If you already have wireless access points and just need a solid router
Get this
https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-gigabit-microSD/dp/B01MSUMVUB
Solid , won't fail you, doesn't have wifi if you don't need it
They are awesome
Edit: if you want wifi from the router , get the HAP AC mentioned below
MikroTik (Amazon Link)
(Product Details)
Or pfSense, as some have already recommended and you are already familiar with.
Well, you definitely don’t need anything that fancy. I would never recommend an ASA, especially for that one.
This guy can easily do gigabit. Though Mikrotik has a bit of a learning curve.
The ERXs can do gigabit as well, and can easily set up a DMZ.
If you have an old computer, you can also install VyOS/pfsense/opnsense. A DMZ is just a fairly straightforward firewall configuration.
I think a microtik hexbox might be up your alley. RouterOS is a bit tough on the learning curve though. They are inexpensive and push good rates however.
Oh sorry, just saw the bottom of you post where you mention that. You can get a used T-Mobile version (which you should be able to flash to a regular Asus version) for $50 on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/T-Mobile-Personal-CellSpot-Asus-TM-AC1900-Dual-band-Wireless-Router/283554166677?hash=item4205253795:g:~6wAAOSwHjxdMpNN
I’ve also done it on this router ($57): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUMVUB/ but it’s more advanced and very easy to get confused when configuring it. It’s a router only with no WiFi, so you’d have to plug in your existing router into it but just turn it into a access point.
Edit: here’s a guide on how to convert the tm-ac1900 to a stock rt-ac68u: https://www.bayareatechpros.com/ac1900-to-ac68u/
Just out of curiosity, what havoc has the Circle created? I know it uses ARP spoofing to do its thing, but I haven't heard of it causing any problems as long as it's connected via hardwire. (Connecting it via wifi only can get dicey for bandwidth reasons, obviously.)
I do know that Circle has partnered with Asus to integrate their functionality into a few of the Nighthawk routers, e.g. this one. I don't know if it has a "transparent filter" type of mode, but it's at least worth researching.
As an added bonus it would increase the security of the Circle's filtering, since with the normal Circle anybody with the real router's MAC address can just set a static ARP entry and bypass the filter entirely.
I appreciate your help with this. I logged into my router to adjust the settings and it was already set to "high". I moved it up a little higher but I am not seeing any difference. My IT professional at my work mentioned I should pick up [this] (http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S) router and it should fix my issue.
What do you think?
Has all the basics for modern laptops/computers. 802.1n wireless, gigabit ethernet ports. I've had one for around 7 years, and only ever rebooted it to install firmware updates. Good range (~25Mbps signal from basement to 2nd story). Recently replaced it just because I have some AC capable wireless NICs now. Unless you're doing home file sharing, it will be plenty fast for streaming, gaming, downloading (unless you have google fiber).
Super fast, tons of features, tons of customizations, rock solid. Only reboots on firmware updates. The merlin firmware is based on the OEM firmware - but has additional customization options (professional wireless settings and tuning, etc.) and squeezes a bit more speed out of the thing.
We've gone through many routers over the year that were totally unreliable- constantly needing to be reset or with a weak signal. After a bunch of research this is what we got:D-Link DIR-655 Extreme N Wireless Router
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-655-Extreme-Wireless-Router/dp/B000LIFB7S/ref=pd_bbs_sr_9?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1228581583&sr=8-9
We've had it for a couple of months and have yet to reset it. And the signal is super strong.
USA would have been enough :D
I think this will work for you => D-Link DIR-655 (there would also be the D-Link DIR-825 which costs a little bit more)
If the people downstairs complain about crappy reception you maybe want to get the D-Link DAP-1360 Wireless-N Range Extender but i would first try it without it !
I hope i helped you :)
Hey there, sorry for the slow response. The good thing is that you can likely pick up any dual antenna router without worrying about range.
That said, I would recommend looking at the DIR-655 from D-Link. I feel bad about it because it's been out for years, but at the same time that means the hardware and firmware are mature. You can find it here: http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-655-Extreme-N-Gigabit-Wireless/dp/B000LIFB7S/
The DIR-655 should be good for up to about 2000 to 2500 square feet, which in your case means that you'll have a strong signal throughout the apartment.
The only thing the DIR-655 doesn't have is dual band- meaning it can't transmit on 5Ghz wireless N. Dual band is nice because it's a "wifi only" signal, but not everything supports it yet. Looking forward, if you do a lot of media streaming and want to do that streaming wirelessly, you may want to look at the DIR-825, found here: http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DIR-825-Extreme-N-Dual-Band-Gigabit/dp/B001F7HLRC/
The only drawback is that the 825 is a dual antenna model, which will put its signal at about 1500-2000 square feet.
You need a router, and judging by your question you are going to need help configuring it. You don't need that specific router any consumer router will do. Just don't get the $30 one... They are complete shit.
While I'm not an authoritative source on good DD-WRT hardware, I've had good luck with the following:
I've used the Netgear at home, it's been super reliable, I've had it running for the past year or so. Very easy to setup with DD-WRT.
I got the D-Link for a customer who wanted a cheap router. I'd much rather use something like a Cisco ASA at a business, but he wanted cheap. So I made the decision that I wanted something running DD-WRT there. The D-link has been solid so far, and was easy to get DD-WRT running on it.
Also, FWIW, I used a D-Link DIR-655 for a long time, before DD-WRT was supported on any gigabit routers that were N capable. It was super reliable and solid, up until the day it died. Just mentioning it, as it was some more hardware I have had good experience with, just not DD-WRT capable. Even though it died on me, I still regard my experience as good. All services/features worked as advertised, great stability, good interface. I can't fault cheap hardware for failing in questionable environments under 24-7 operation.
Well I am using a Dlink DIR-655 : https://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S
Been using it for about 5 years. Handles a 50Mb connection with a consistently heavy load with no problems and has many great features.
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-Extreme-N-Gigabit-DIR-655/dp/B000LIFB7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374767339&sr=8-2&keywords=dlink+extreme+n
If this is in your price rang I highly recommend it. It's very fast, and handles my 1000 sq ft apartment without any problems at all. I am an avid gamer and this router has supported my gaming through wired and wireless connections without hindrance.
List of what is on the desk... printer, receiver, headphones, wireless charging pad, wii remote + IR receiver, router, LED controller, wireless mouse, earbuds, tablet, hub, 4TB external HDD, headset, xbox controller, PS3 controller, computer
IIRC: the only brand of routers that will work with two xboxs is D-Link now not all of them will work but most of them will. I would personally recommend the DIR-655 It's not the top of the line but for $60 You will not find anything better.
We got the D-link one from Amazon when we had their 100gb service it provided about 75gb more than enough to do anything. The DIR-655 one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LIFB7S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1409101271&sr=8-1&pi=SL75
I have Comcast, I have their modem. The router I bought myself. The router is a D-Link Wireless N+300 Mbps Extreme-N Gigabit Router (DIR-655). Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LIFB7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lack of access combined with the fact that the security devices will only connect to that router makes troubleshooting tough...
Is it one of these? Can you join its network with another device, e.g. a laptop, and see if you can access the internet through it when the buffering is happening?
Without knowing anything else about it, at this point the only other advice I could offer would be to blast any dust out of it with a can of air, on the off chance that it's just overheating and hanging up.
>stream 1080p to my wifi tv
Do you know approximately how far away your device is from your router and what speed you connect at? My laptop is near my HTPC and is currently connected at 52Mb/s (58%) and fluctuates up to 78Mb/s.This issue appears to have been solved by changing encryption levels on the router from "WPA-PSK [TKIP] + WPA2-PSK [AES]" to "WPA2-PSK [AES]". Thanks!
I would get a Netgear that has Multiple Console support and bridge the gateway that your ISP gave you.
Your ISP will need to setup the bridge settings on the Gateway as they normally hide those from their customers.
Most are very happy with the Nighthawk AC1900(R7000) but it's really costly and anything below R7000 doesn't support more than 1 Xbox.
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6
The cheapest that I found is the N300 (WNR2000) but it was most likely tested with multiple Xbox 360s.
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-N300-WNR2000/dp/B001AZP8EW
I'm not sure how well it would hold up with 2 Xbox Ones and has NAT issues with Hardware version 1 with the newest firmware.
It also only has a 400MHz single core CPU unlike the Nighthawk that has a 1GHz(1,000MHz) Dual core CPU.
With the ethernet cable I get 70 Mbps. Checked with my smartphone and got 45 Mbps. I wonder if it's the wireless card or the router just isn't sending a strong enough signal to that area. This particular computer is located about 10 feet away from the router but there's a wall in between them. This is the router I have:
https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-N300-WNR2000/dp/B001AZP8EW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542563179&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+router+wnr2000
Is the router okay or should I replace that too?
edit- It seems like my router is not AC but only bgn compatible... I'll be buying a new router then.
I currently use this and this as a wireless router. I also have a 100Mbp/s downstream connection, so I never really have a problem gaming on wireless, or streaming or torrenting from a computer using wifi. I rent so there's no way I can try to run wire throughout the house, and my houses electrical circuits are messed up as is, so I don't think trying a powerline connection would be the best.
Gah, I wrote my comment after seeing the "N300" and thought you were referring to Netgear, but now I see that wasn't the case. Ah well, it's not totally out of your budget, so here's what I've got on it.
I have had the Netgear N300 for about a year and a half and it's worked great. I live with 2 roommates and we can all be on our smartphones, laptops, and have netflix playing on the TV without an issue. Quite often we have 5 or 6 people in our apartment and there is no noticable slowdown with the router. Very occasionally we'll have to reset the router, but that's only once every 3+ months.
Next year we're looking at dropping cable for a roku, so we may have to bump up to the Netgear N600 to stream HD video all the time, which sounds like what you're interested in doing. It's on sale for $70 in the link I provided, and I'm really tempted to snatch it up right now!
This is what I have, it is about three years old now and going strong.
Uhh... the N300 is like $40 (http://amzn.com/B001AZP8EW)... unless you got the Router+DSL Modem combo?
Whatever the case, keep everything you can wired. Use wireless only for your phones, tablet and laptops. Keep the printer wired to your PC, fix the drivers and just share it on the network so everybody can print to it.
You'll probably be okay then. I would recommend this one over the second one you linked there: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RYYZZS or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YLAUU8
Definitely get something that is gigabit.
Man, you scared me it's this [one] (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNR3500L/dp/B002RYYZZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1398041635&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+n300+WNR3500L), and I actually paid 100$. Now it's look like it's cheaper, but we can still see the original price. And it's worth nothing I'm in canada, stuff is often more expensive. Anyway, it looks like I didn't get the most for my money. See How I need help???? hehe. For the printer, should I wired trhought the router directly? and also, would I be able to use it whit the tablet and laptop? and thanks for the answer.
I've got a Netgear N300.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-WNR3500L-Open-Source-WNR3500Lv2-Processor/dp/B002RYYZZS
I apologize for my ignorance, I don't know much about how routers work and such.
But this is the one I have. Does it seem like I need to get a better one for strong game streaming?
It lists a System requirement of 2.4 GHz, but I'm not sure how fast the router is capable of...
Also, I'm not sure what my internet speeds are always at... but I do pay for (15 mbps down) at least
Nice. For $65, it seems like a pretty good value.
Do you know how much RAM you have on this thing? I see pages that claim 32MB, 64MB, 128MB, and sometimes several values at once.
There is a Netgear WNR3500L which is $35 USD that seems to have some good reviews. Since it runs OpenWRT it should give you all kinds of capability, including vlans. However, you will have to configure it of course (do your homework). You could also consider a managed switch like the Netgear GS108E in the out years to amplify what you want to do (also look at the Netgear GS108T as well, just a little more money). I am using four GS108Ts in my home network with around 8 vlans for various purposes.
If you don't already have a router, I assume you do, incase you don't, go for:
NetGear W&P Series - Any from here, you can amazon the product name.
NetGear HPW Series - Same again, just amazon the product name.
Personal opinion - N300 Gb Router.
Now that you have a router/modem, make sure it's connected by ethernet to your xbox to ensure lowest pings and maximum packets received.
Secondly, consider talking to your housemates about helping pay extra to a larger internet package. In my experience 100Mb/s down with at least 25Mb/s up is fine but if you can't get that try to find packages that give large uploads along with large downloads.
Finally your upload speed is what determines everything when you're gaming, that's why when you stream you get insane levels of ping if you haven't configured properly.
NETGEAR WNR3500L N300 is only $50 and supports DD-WRT. It has wi-fi, but you can turn it off. It's tough to find a consumer grade router these days that doesn't support wireless.
Well, there is a slight problem with that router. It will do just fine for Wifi, however, it only supports 100Mbps wired connections (this includes the connection between he modem and router thus limiting the max speed at which you can communicate with your modem be it WiFi or Ethernet). With this router you will not get more than 100Mbps, which if you are paying for 150Mbps, is going to be a waste. When you look for a router, you want these 2 features:
When I was looking around, routers with these features started at ~$80/90.
Also, the modem your ISP gives you will be a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. In theory, they should not charge you extra for it. There are two benefits for getting your own modem:
The possible downside is that if something does not work down the road, you could be charged service fees for them to fix it. Basically you take responsibility for the equipment.
EDIT:
I'll be damned, Routers really fell in price over the last few months. Here is an N300 from Netgear that supported Gigabit Ethernet: ($60 on Amazon US)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RYYZZS?ie=UTF8&tag=etalecouk-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B002RYYZZS
The Netgear website still says 10/100 but they call the ports "Gigabit Ethernet" and the retail websites all list 10/100/1000, so this should work.
We all gotta learn somehow :D Just make sure you simply get a cox connection, they may try and sell you a router/modem combo that you should refuse and just ask for the modem.
I recommend getting this router: http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-N-Broadband-Internal-Antenna/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406416845&sr=1-2&keywords=medialink+router
It's dirt cheap and is pretty flawless. I've used mine in extremely heavy-use apartments and have zero issues with dropping connections, something that can happen if you overload some wireless routers.
Good luck with the move! I'm moving there myself in three weeks :D
This is the router. I cannot find QoS anywhere: https://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Router-150-Mbps/dp/B0044YU60M
It states that it does have it, though, not sure where I disable this.
Edit - just read it, this router doesn't have QoS options.
Laggy as in buffering. I don't know if it's my processor since it's fairly new. I'm running my Plex server on my desktop which has an Intel i5 2500k processor so I'm sure if that's the case. I hope not! My router is a Medialink mwn-wapr150n
Time for a new router. Here's a decent one.
I have Optimum Boost, and my speeds are still very mediocre. I think something is happening when the data hits the wireless router in my house: http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B0044YU60M
I've never been able to get close to the speeds advertised. Do you have any tips?
No worries! And I am sorry, you say that ($50/60) in your OP.
E2500, 2700, or 32oo refurb:
http://store.linksys.com/products/linksys-outlet-refurbished_stcVVcatId543906VVviewcat.htm
This:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085WN7YQ
This gets good reviews at amazon. I have not used one:
http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=zg_bs_300189_2
If you are going to try this brand, I'd get the upgrade for ten bucks more:
http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B00A3YN0Z0/ref=zg_bs_300189_13
This has great range, but out of price range, and single band only:
http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=zg_bs_300189_28
$73 with rebate though.
I have not used one:
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-App-Enabled-Dual-Band-DIR-826L/dp/B0081TXJ28/ref=zg_bs_300189_33
http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Whole-Home-Router-Wireless-N-DIR-645/product-reviews/B005DIPWFC/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
One of those will do it.
No Belkin please, sorry. (And yes I know belkin owns linksys now.)
Here we are back at the real WRT54GL again:
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ref=zg_bs_300189_6
Fifty dollah. Still a good router, for light loads, single band only. I think I'd go with a dual band refurb myself.
What about a Medialink - Wireless N Router - 802.11n - 150 Mbps - 2.4 Ghz - NEW Design w/ Internal Antenna?
EDIT: after looking at several reviews I think this is the one we'll get.
Hi - in similar boat (don't want to buy Fios router), and am only looking at the 100/100 Mbps Internet deal currently available ($39.99/month).
This is the router I currently have: https://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Router-150-Mbps/dp/B0044YU60M
It should work with Fios as long as it has an Ethernet connection, correct?
>When you set a router's wireless mode, usually the best mode is to leave it on the default which is mixed, offering B G N and AC. Your device will handle which mode it will connect with, so you will be fine.
Nice man. Thank you.
>Also, the router is a beast,
It better be a freakin beast....that damn router cost $200!!! my last router was $30
Apparently, its $20 now.
Thanks for the advice. This is my router, I assumed it was pretty good. I'm currently working through forwarding ALL THE PORTS and hopefully that solves the issue.
Thanks for the info! I've got this router and modem. I'm assuming it's more than enough to handle the load, but just wanted to double check.
This is the router I have. I'd had it for about 3 years.
https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-Including-Parental-E1200/dp/B004T9RR6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485364667&sr=1-2&keywords=linksys+router&refinements=p_36%3A1253504011 Always a half decent pick for the price
Well that's the easier part... really it depends on your price range for the router. If you're only getting 30 mbps, you won't have to spend much.
This one is $35
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T9RR6I/ref=asc_df_B004T9RR6I3236896?smid=AJGX97N9OPY8I&tag=mysimon-ce00-mp01-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B004T9RR6I
I've had the TP Link WDR4300 router (N) for about 3 years. It's a great no frills router that gets the job done at a competitive price. A couple months ago I got the ASUS RT-AC66U and installed Tomato on it. It's awesome but probably overkill for your situation. You basically have to decide if you want third party firmware on your router or if you want to leave it stock.
TP Link WDR4300 router (N) 66.99
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR4300-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B0088CJT4U/ref=sr_1_1
Even the AC version is a pretty good price $93.99
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR4300-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B0088CJT4U/ref=sr_1_1
You could always get something really cheap that's still supported by DDWRT if you just want to get by http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-E1200-Wireless-N300-Router/dp/B004T9RR6I or the N300 suggested by JustPlainTed
Many devices don't support 3x3 (triband) so you may be paying for features you can't use just yet. It may future proof you, but you're not using what you paid for. See: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2460394,00.asp
As for your bedroom situation, you may want to install a repeater or extender for your wifi. This way you have excellent coverage throughout. For example:
Router: http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-Including-Parental-E1200/dp/B004T9RR6I
Extender: http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-Dual-Band-Extender-RE1000/dp/B005FDXMJS
Hope it helps!
We need to know what your budget is. Here are some options:
http://bestwirelessroutersnow.com/best-wireless-router/
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-E1200-Linksys-Wireless-N300-Router/dp/B004T9RR6I/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376658741&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+router
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-E1200-Linksys-Wireless-N-Router/dp/B004T9RR6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341632840&sr=1-2&keywords=linksys+wireless+router
Based on how large your house is, you should be able to set up another router as an access point and connect it to your WNR2000 using an ethernet cable.
I use a Linksys E1200 which has been firmwared with DD-WRT so it will work as an access point, but I think that the Linksys E2500 would work better as an access point since it was optimized for multiple users and is also dual band.
We have this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004T9RR6I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
This is the router I plan on getting. Anyone used it before? If so, how is it?
Any specific modem that works greatly with it? : )
This is probably more fitted to /r/techsupport. But the main thing I'd say is that the modem/router compatibility isn't as important as the router/devices your folks want internet on compatibility. Do your folks have Wireless-N devices? Or are they on the high tech stuff with Wireless-AC? Or old school wireless-G? Or is the system hooked up via Ethernet?
The main differences you will see in routers are on 4 fronts:
I have http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR4300-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B0088CJT4U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1396475530&sr=8-4&keywords=tplink+wireless+n
it works great but you may not need dual-band
If you're on a budget, this is great choice. It's been doing amazing for me so far with a great signal.
The strange thing is though that our old router performed much better than this one when it came to range, even though it was about a decade old.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Wi-Fi-Router-TL-WDR4300/dp/B0088CJT4U
No matter what I tend to adhere to the maximum 10 devices per router rule and things have been great for me.. Also TP-Link routers have been working great for me. I do have the free TMO branded Asus but why pay more than you need to right?
TP-Link n300
Similar brand Linksys E2500
I have this one - TP-Link n750
Cana none recommend a wireless router for under $75, preferably on Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001UI4RTG/ref=s9_top_hm_b1G5l_g147_i1 - my current router.
Poor signal strength and interference is creating some major latency spikes and slower speeds so I'd like to change up the router after having it for a couple years.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0088CJT4U/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER - the one I've found that looks to be the best fit, but I'd love some input on this or other suggestions.
My ISP is SuddenLink. I know they aren't the best but they are the only option for me realistically. My network setup is a Motorola SB6141 with a TP-LINK TL-WDR4300 router flashed with DD-WRT. My consoles all connect via a switch that is connected to the router. I'm also using DCHP reservation to assign IPs to all devices. I may just got ahead a set up proper port forwarding for the Xbox One. I just would rather let the software handle the configuration if it can.
On a side note, and if anyone wants to continue this convo via PMs then make it so: If I were to use wireless I never get a full signal from my devices, even consoles. I'm not too sure why but I feel like it would be something with DD-WRT settings that I haven't played with correctly or there's something else I need to adjust to get the wireless connectivity to be better.
If you don't mind a slight lag, you can save some money and use an app if you're on Android. I use one of 2 apps that display the live view on my phone and has remote control features.
DSLR Controller is a more basic app that does this. but I prefer qDSLRDashboard as it offers many more features -- just not free and I can't recall the price.
I got a hotshoe mount for my phone like this one, but not this one and a USB OTG adapter like this and connect the phone to my DSLR via USB.
Benefits are the phone (or tablet) then displays my camera's live view, the touch screen becomes the camera's touch screen for things like touch to focus, the apps can control the camera and use their own overlays (I like qDSLRDashboard's focus peaking feature).
Bonus: Both support live view over WiFi and you can install custom firmware on a TP-Link TL-MR3040 portable router, then plug the router into your camera and have wireless control via either app to your camera.
There's a slight delay between the camera and what's displayed on phone, more so over wifi. So if you need precision, this isn't your answer. But if you want something kinda fun and cheaper than a monitor, give this a shot.
TP-Link TL-MR3040 a small battery powered wireless router with a USB port. It's easy to install OpenWRT and in turn OpenVPN.
Small as in cell phone sized. As I mentioned earlier
>All you need is something like this and software from here.
The router has it's own battery. If you were looking at the post I made last year, that's actually three different pirateboxes. One is a raspberry pi, one is running on my phone, and the last one is the router I linked.
I have the TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 Wireless N600 Dual Band Router.
Reason I went with this one over the ASUS RT-N66U is because where I live I don't have the option for Gigabit speeds, so I couldn't really justify the additional cost of the ASUS. It really is a great router though.
I purchased the Motorola surfboard modem at best buy when it was on sale. and the TP-link wdr-3500 and they have been great.
Ok. Thanks for the input. Have you had any experience with some of the cheaper dual-band routers such as the TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 or Linksys EA3500?
Seconding the surfboard, it's a beast. (And yeah, OP, you will need a router as well for phones. This is the router I use with mine, which I'm sure best buy or walmart probably has kicking around too.)
I bought a TP-LINK TL-WDR3500 Wireless N600 Dual Band Router (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098QV038/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) about a month ago and it's been working well so far. I use the 5 GHz band for my Roku, and the 2.4 GHz band for everything else. Range is not as large as I'd hoped, but it's certainly no worse than my old D-Link DIR-615 router. I'd recommend it, but it's not an especially strong recommendation as I've not used it for a long time yet.
The TP-Link does not have gigabit ethernet and only has one 1 USB port vs 2 for the Asus, but seems comparable otherwise, at less than half the price.
What is your budget. I have this one and it works like a charm. It has gigabit ports which is an advantage over the one you linked.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8?cache=e1ab007c0f5e3151d3d31956824eacda&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412634863&sr=8-10#ref=mp_s_a_1_10
If you are in an area with a.lot of wireless networks, then the 5ghz version would help with interference.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0098QV038?cache=e1ab007c0f5e3151d3d31956824eacda&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412634863&sr=8-7#ref=mp_s_a_1_7
I was looking to spend around 50 bucks. But If i need to dish out a little more to get the speeds i want i would do it. I need to try to plug in directly to test speeds. Cant try at the moment. Hows this router? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098QV038?ie=UTF8&tag=chooser-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0098QV038
This is the one I use for wireless along with the surfboard modem. Haven't had a problem with it and the 5ghz band works great if you're in a apartment surrounded by a bunch of other wireless modems. There are also cheaper models if you don't want the the 5Ghz or less features.
TP-Link N600 Wireless Wi-Fi Dual Band Router (TL-WDR3500)
> 600Mbps of total available bandwidth, which includes 300Mbps at 2.4GHz and 300Mbps at 5GHz
Looks like it doesn't support gigabit.
I'm always a fan of TP-Link myself. amzn.com/B0098QV038
amzn.com/B003CFATSS <--- if you meant a nonWi-Fi router but I'm assuming that since you are talking about security then you want Wi-Fi.
I might be able to get the Archer C5 and a $75 Arris modem, or would this Arris Surfboard be alright? It's only $100 for prime day
I'll start by saying I have Comcast...unfortunately. In March, I purchased this to replace the rental modem from Comcast so that I could stop paying the monthly rental fee. Not paying attention, I didn't realize that this model didn't have the eMTA feature, and therefore I couldn't connect the phone to it (I also can't return this as it is past the return period). Comcast is "threatening" to change my plan from the Triple Play to a Double Play, which will cost way more money.
I'm thinking about buying a used modem with eMTA capabilities, but want to know what the best way is to go about this. Should I buy just a telephony modem for the phone and continue using my current modem for internet?
OP if I understand you correctly. The following is how your network is currently set up?
Room A has
Modem/WiFi Router Combo and plugged into it...
Room B
Powerline Out #1 and plugged into it...
Room C
Powerline Out #2 and plugged into it...
Wifi Access Point in Room C and connected to it...
That current setup is actually ideal for the hardware you have (assuming all the hardware/software is configured correctly)
My thoughts and things to consider.
Hey thanks again for the quick reply.
Once my computer is built, then I will look into the extensions and smaller things to make it look better, unless you have any brands or types off the top of your head. Like you said for the few wires that will show, it really isn't worth a basic kit after looking into it. Great tip!
Looking into the case fans I see what you mean about the noise vs the actual performance. I think those fans will suit me just great! Cool to see those videos about just how little of a difference it would make for me and I would have been sacrificing noise for pretty much no more performance. Good deal!
As for the routers. I used that wifi analyzer and surprisingly it is a lot worse than I thought. My signal is still the strongest but I have about 4 or 5 other people operating on the same exact channels as me under the 2.4G tab. Looking under the 5G tab, it was blank. Absolutely nobody. So I think I'll go with the 5G router! But I do have an issue. The modem and router I have are all in one unit. It is a modem/router combo. So I would have to get a modem as well. Any suggestions? Should I get a separate modem and router or should I get a combined unit? Just for extra information, my router doesn't need to push too far or go through many walls to get to me. I still like to have it broadcast a good ways so I can use the wifi on my phone when out in the backyard, but as far as reaching where my pc will go, it will be about 15 feet away going through two walls (non insulated walls). It is set up in my living room towards the center of the apartment and I get good signal as it is. Just need it to perform better I guess because I guess the issue is that the router (or modem?) gets flooded easily when searching for servers in a game. That is when it just cuts off my internet in the game and I have to exit the game, then I am back to normal. Just plain weird but that is the only thing I've found online that fits exactly what happens to me when I try to load servers on bigger games like KF2.
Also, I have no experience what so ever when it comes to setting up a modem or router. What do I need to do? I know I want the 5G frequency and the channels don't matter because no one else is on that frequency at all. Do I just plug in the new modem and router (or modem/router combo) and just let it do its thing? Will my network name stay the same or will I have to set up an entirely new network?
I said I don't want to spend a ton of money on this but what I meant was like some super $500 wifi system that I can't even take advantage of without extreme internet speed haha.
This one is expensive in my opinion but has great reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-DOCSIS-C7000-100NAS/dp/B00ZUPOF7Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452701417&amp;sr=1-22&amp;keywords=modem+router+combo&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=nerdtechy-20&amp;linkId=60570f3ee7b22a14bc2b80874b4f9578
But this one on the other hand is cheaper and also has great reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1750-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=nerdtechy-20&amp;linkId=fd7024bf66add45962bc8e4ca9c36b75
Ideally, I'd like to spend a little less than that, but I will if it means not having to mess with it again. I'm not sure what speeds are ideal for normal gaming nowadays but I know that the games I play now work alright, maybe laggy once in a while but it could also just be my computer. For now, I'd just like to swap out the modem and router so I no longer have to deal with copying ip addresses just to join servers on bigger games. Then in the future if I wish to up my internet speed for whatever reason, I know the router and modem can handle it. And with this new computer, I'll have all my bases covered! Let me know what you think!
One of them on Amazon is not being sold by them anymore due to customer complaints. "Item Under Review".
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-Surfboard-SBG6782-AC-588456-005-00/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405481663&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=SBG6782AC
This is the router I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ7Y7MU
Thanks for the help!
I'm not using a cable amp, didn't need one. Cable/modem is this beast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJ7Y7MU/
I picked up this one via Amazon and am very happy with it.
I use this one. But it may be overkill unless you need all the features. It's the best modem/router combo I've ever used and waaay better than Comcast's gateway (despite them both being made by the same company).
That said, any basic docsis 3 modem should do fine. The Moto seem to be most popular.
I have this router and it works great in my 2 story home. https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT1900ACS-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468383500&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=Linksys+router&amp;psc=1
A modem is device which connects to your ISP and decodes/encodes the data being transferred. A router handles the data and serves it to your home via WiFi or wired ethernet.
A lot of ISPs sell 2-in-1 devices which contain both the modem and router in the same device. These work good for small basic networks but are very limited if you have higher bandwidth or more devices in your home.
I've been using an ARRIS SURFBoard SB6121 modem for about a year with Time Warner with no problems.
I also have my own wireless router which you will need to get if you buy the above modem. The router I have is a Linksys WRT1900ACS which is probably overkill for what you would need. I would suggest something along the lines of a TP-LINK AC1200.
It's super easy. I never did it before either, and I'm a female who has zero experience with house repairs. I can build a computer but don't know a damn thing about house repairs like electricity, plumbing, or anything like that. Basically, my dad just used his drill, drilled a small hole and went into the basement and we snaked the ethernet cord up through to my room.
If you want to get a new router, I would recomend getting a Linksys WRT AC1200 Dual-Band and Wi-Fi Wireless Router with Gigabit and USB 3.0 Ports and eSATA. I have the model that's slightly higher, the Linksys WRT1900ACS Dual-Band Smart Wi-Fi Gigabit Router, but I don't think you would need to spend that much unless you wanted to.
Or you could get a powerline adapter or wireless range extender. You could get the TP-LINK AV500 AC750 Wi-Fi Range Extender, Powerline Edition (TL-WPA4530 KIT) which has both and currently has a $10 off coupon. Obviously, ethernet is always better than wireless if possible. Make sure what you get can handle the speed of your modem/router. You can do a speed test with any of these websites (I typically check a few different websites and then average the speed): Ookla Speed Test, CNET Speed Test, Source Forge Speed Test, Bandwith Place Speed Test, SpeedTest.Org, e-Speed Test, SpeedOf.Me Speed Test, Speak Easy Speed Test, Verizon Speed Test, Charter Speed Test.
Remember, if you make any purchase with Amazon, always use Amazon Smile which donates a portion of your purchase to a charity of your choice. So instead of going to http://www.amazon.com, always go to http://smile.amazon.com and help someone out.
Ah, yes. It is the 1900ACS. Seems to have a 1.6G CPU. So you're saying that, also considered the faster transfer speed, antennas, and processors, the 1900 will give noticeably better speeds? (hopefully work $90 more).
First of all, an aunt that plays games? Awesome.
Now for the router, every time i hear of gaming router i hear,
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-Gigabit/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=lp_300189_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478449765&amp;sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-AC1900-Source-Wireless-WRT1900ACS/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=lp_300189_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478449765&amp;sr=1-7
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wireless-Router-Gaming-WNDR37AV/dp/B003Q9CI48
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1750-Router-800MHz-Processor/dp/B00Z0V2NQ8/ref=pd_lpo_147_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZVHA9T8NTHBY4JXN3QFM
You can read the descriptions or reviews for one that suits you. :)
[Newegg] (https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAB2753F0077&amp;cm_re=Linksys_WRT1900ACS-_-33-124-605-_-Product) and Amazon are a bit better.
I use a Linksys AC1900 on the 5GHZ band. I have no issue maxing out my 110 meg connection.
I've also had good luck with MOCA adapters....
I'll be honest, I'm tempted by this: https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-AC1900-Source-Wireless-WRT1900ACS/dp/B014MIBLSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480104461&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wrt1900acs#customerReviews though I'm leaning to the ubiquity setup.
I am actually looking for a new router myself right now, I am thinking about getting the Linksys WRT1900ACS.
Reviews on it are very good.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014MIBLSA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00KEK4Q5Q&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0EC0Z7XHAJ455P3WGXP7
I'm currently using an N600 dual band tplink router (TL-WDR3500) that I'm not satisfied with. Even wired I lose a ton of speed when connected to it rather than through my modem provided by my isp.
How do the router you linked compare to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014MIBLSA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER.
This is what I was talking about in terms of routers: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016EWKQAQ/?tag=aboutcom02lifewire-20&amp;ascsubtag=4038590%7Cgoogle.com%7C%7C%7C66%2C20%2C83%2C26%2C3%2C17%2C9%2C80%7C1%7C
RT-AC5300 is over hyped, and over priced. Triband is one of the most useless things ever.
ASUS RT-AC87U, or Asus RT-AC88U
If you want a quality router on the lower end go with NETGEAR Nighthawk R7000 it goes on sale every 2 month and is around 150.
I just bought this one a few weeks ago and it has made my gaming experiences much better. It is very expensive, but worth every penny if you can afford it.
I went ahead and got this Tp-link one since since it was 70$ cheaper than the Asus Asus RT-AC88U.
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-supporting-AiProtection-security-Accelerator/dp/B016EWKQAQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543026817&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Asus+RT-AC88U
i can always return it though if I think it's worth the extra premium.
So I don't think this is news to you, but hardware dedicated to 1 specific task (i.e. a separate WAP, Router) will typically get you better results than an all in one, or equal results for cheaper. That's probably why /u/ericgcollyer suggested the UAP devices.
With that in mind, did you have any other requirements, Price range, etc? Anything wrong with this Asus?
Ah, I have one of these. :)
https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC88U-Wireless-AC3100-AiProtection-Complete-Security/dp/B016EWKQAQ
Multiple sites mention this asus router as having best in class range and speed and that it specifically works well for xbo.
coverage up to 5000 square feet
[Range Extender] (http://www.amazon.in/Linksys-RE3000W-Wireless-Single-Extender/dp/B00KJLE2CC)
I have this router https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016EWKQAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my Fiber 1000/1000 and it works great. Wire I get 990 mbps down and 995 mbps up. I keep majority of my devices on 5gh and get great speeds as well in a 2600 sq. ft. home. I don't even need an AP setup or mesh to reach the whole house. They have a cheaper version that has less ports on the back, but this router does a lot. If money is no issue you can always future proof yourself and grab the new WIFI 6 router they offer. https://www.asus.com/Networking/RT-AX88U/.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016EWKQAQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
even with these?
Will do. I ordered this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016EWKQAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one has you covered:
http://amzn.com/B016EWKQAQ
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485190839&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usg
looks like they fixed it, the product image shows the logo aligned properly
Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W0hkDbH2HS0NW
Does this look good?
TL/DR: a bit of background and personal experience ultimately suggesting that you run some network cable, and look into a full Ubiquiti setup with USG router, PoE switch & NanoHD Wi-Fi AP’s for around $400 including cabling, provided you’re not planning on upgrading your internet to faster than 1Gbps soon.
I’m not familiar with coax cable internet, but assume you can get some sort of Ethernet handoff from your modem?
Either way, make the effort and run some CAT6 cabling for Wi-Fi AP’s, and key devices too if possible.
My network setup in my 1150 square foot apartment, works perfectly on my 200Mbps fibre connection and would cost you around $483 for the following:
I host the Ubiquiti Controller on a Windows PC acting as my home storage & media server and keep this running as a service (not necessary I know, but I like the stats).
My network serves a mixture of around 30 devices, consisting of phones, tablets, computers, my home storage & media server, IoT devices, home theatre & TV’s all whilst doing some online gaming myself in the mix without hiccup. Hiccups are generally self-induced by my fiddling on the network. But from a stability and capability aspect, it’s perfect for me.
I’ve previously used the “cheaper” MikroTik RB2011 ($102), which could also work for you - https://www.amazon.com/MikroTik-RB2011UiAS-RM-Routerboard-Rackmount-5xGbit/dp/B00DYWE2Z0
However, if you you were already considering Ubiquiti Wi-Fi AP’s, then possibly consider going with a full Ubiquiti setup, by getting one of their routers & Wi-Fi AP’s? Ubiquiti’s UniFi range is quite impressive and I too like the commercial appeal of their products, so I’m slowly shifting my network over to a full Ubiquiti one (don’t tell my wife). A Ubiquiti setup could cost you between $384 with 1 AP and $533 with 2 AP’s... (although I feel you may need at least 2 AP’s)... excluding the cost of the cabling needed.
But if I were you, I’d look into a setup like:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1
If you could, the more robust UniFi USG-Pro 4 (tad bit expensive) would be a great router as I’ve read that the standard USG can cause speed issues with speeds above 500Mbps, when enabling nice-to-have features like its Deep Packet Inspection (DPI) and Intrusion Prevention System (IPS). These features are not necessary, but nice if you’re like me and like the stats and functionality they bring.
Good luck and enjoy the setup once you decide and get the kit. Always fun setting up a new network gear.
edit:
I am a proponent of Unifi USG devices. They are super cheap, easily configurable, and have lots of features. The Pro model has a bit more capability than the standard, but depending on what your needs are, you may be able to get by with the standard USG. Here are the 2 models.
USG: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540841846&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=unifi+usg&amp;dpID=31-lhpANO6L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
USG Pro: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540841846&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=unifi+usg&amp;dpID=31-19KkLadL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I have these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538949380&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usg+pro+4
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-150W-UniFi-Switch/dp/B01E46ATQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538949426&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=us-16-150w+ubiquiti
US Amazon store has them in stock: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG-PRO-4/dp/B019PBEI5W
Newegg has them in stock:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA3894629112
If you are in Europe, Amazon Germany has them in stock: https://www.amazon.de/Ubiquiti-USG-PRO-4-UniFi-Security-Gateway/dp/B01A9HFTYA
You are approaching this correctly I think.
If you are running wiring you will want to pick a location to be the network rack. typically where the lines come in the house (but obviously that doesn't matter here)
Get a 19in rack and mount it.
Patch Panel for punching down your terminations there.
Get a shelf.
Probably looking at a 16-port switch? Maybe 24?
I like the Unifi stack for everything. lots of people say the edge routers, which makes some sense for one location I guess. It's a little bit more detailed UI. Literally the same hardware though.
I like the USG. If it were me I would probably put in the Pro, because rackmount, but that's stupid crazy overkill from a tech perspective. It would bother me irrationally, just the form factor.
Then you drop your Access Points in. It depends on how the house is setup, but you want to put them where you actually will use them. At 4000sqft, 2-3 should cover it, depending on layout.
> So looking for suggestions on setup. Was thinking about going all Ubiquiti gear but alot of people say it can be challenging to setup but great once you get it working. With the hassle of moving, young kids, and dealing with getting internet in the first place Im not sure I have time for something that will take a while to get working great.
It won't take much time at all to actually set it up. Physically setting it up will be the time consuming bit. The technical setup will be nothing to someone who runs a VM server. In fact you will do what I do and just spin up a headless ubuntu instance and install the controller. You click adopt a few times on the hardware in a pretty UI and it's done.
Update To Add I found an Amazon seller that had 8, I ordered one, checked stock and it said 6, as of 5 minutes ago they were down to 1.
Not an affiliate link, no association with seller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019PBEI5W
My friend uses https://www.privateinternetaccess.com/ to get around the mlb rules.
He actuall uses a mini router like this on his tv's ethernet connection(tv supports mlb tv) to pipe the tv through the socks5 proxy from PIA. The router has a proxy tab where you can have it connect to a proxy and send all traffic hooked up to it through the proxy. PIA has multiple geographical locations in the US you can target as well as canada and mexico. I believe he was using NYC to get around the white sox being blocked(he is near chicago) and used the canada or mexico location to unblock the world series games. MLB seemingly doesn't blacklist proxies.
: ) Good old modem with those dial-up sounds?
Maybe an ethernet crossover adapter with Mini Travel Router?
Late, so I'm sure no one else will see this, but I use a travel router when I'm on the road and it ensures that my 3DS (and other devices) can connect to any network. Basically, you simply use a phone or another wired/wireless device to connect it to a wired/wireless/tethered network and sign in or accept the terms. Then connect your devices to it, and they should all now work!
It uses OpenWRT, so you can set up your personal security, port forwards etc, but it's not required.
Obviously, you can do this with many other routers, I'm just giving feedback on the small one I bought.
edit: spekling
My main router doesn't reach one corner of the house, so in that room I put a tiny travel router and set the SSID, password, and channel number to match the main router, and the DHCP server to assign a different block of IP addresses (the 3rd number in the IP address is what's different). It connects to the main router with a Powerline adapter.
He picked up one of these, except his says "V2" on it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY11K40/
So the main problem again I think I would encounter is being able to pick up Verizon's signal as I believe Verizon has the closest cell tower to me (3 blocks away according to open signal app). How exactly would I install or use something like the MOFI 4500? Is this what I want? MOFI4500? Is it just a router that picks up the signal from the tower and turns it into a regular router? Could I attach a stronger directional antenna to it such as This? My apologies if that's a cell booster or if any of this is ignorant or dumb, I really don't understand a ton about it. Also, what would I do about the Verizon sim card? Isn't it possible to get an unlimited one somewhere?
I can't speak about unthrottled plans. I think almost all of them throttle or are managed in some way.
&#x200B;
But for hardware I use this device. If you pair it with a weboost 4g booster with verizon you can get pretty good 4g in a lot of places!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EY11K40/
I was thinking about this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EY11K40
Paired with NetBuddy and Verizon Prepaid Unlimited.
Yes, it will work with the correct plan directly from T-Mobile. Here is the modem i have On Amazon
The router is definitely your culprit. There are better routers that will give you the gigabit speeds you have with ATT. This is the upgraded version of what you have https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X10-Quad-Stream-R9000-100NAS/dp/B01M12RE4A
Plus cat 7 is capable of 10 gigabit speeds anyway! Well I’m going to buy this modem, and I think I’ll go with this router.
Most ISP techs will default by saying your equipment is not good enough because their employers want you to rent their equipment. What kind of speeds are you currently getting?
With that said ...
DOCSIS 3.1 is a new standard for cable modems, this will grant you your biggest speed boost. though it looks like you have a pretty nice modem already.
For wifi 802.11ad and 802.11ax are upcoming standards, make sure they have MU-MIMO if you want to take advantage of newer tech.
For lan make sure all your equipment is rated for 10/100/1000 speeds. One kink in the chain can throttle your speeds. It also does not hurt to have all cat5e or cat6 wiring.
Also make sure you don't have your two routers competing for DHCP.
I've currently been eyeing these two routers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12RE4A/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1P1T3F17EUVAY&colid=1PJO1XFYZH6LV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FRP2758/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3S2IMED2FNIPO&colid=1PJO1XFYZH6LV
There are only a few. Almost every router for home use has 4 LAN ports. Anything above that is usually an extender (so you can't connect a modem).
So those few that exist are really expensive
Netgear AC5300 (6 ports) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC5300-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-R8500-100NAS/dp/B015PD3HOC
Netgear R9000 (6 ports) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X10-Quad-Stream-R9000-100NAS/dp/B01M12RE4A
Linksys EA9500 (8 ports) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-AC5400-Wireless-Router-EA9500/dp/B017NT8Q24
Dlink DSR350N (8 ports) https://www.amazon.com/DLIDSR250N-Systems-DSR-250N-Wireless-Services/dp/B008021NGK
Well top of the line right now are the [TP-Link AD7200] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AD7200-Wireless-Tri-Band-Talon/dp/B01FRP2758/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499804965&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=tp+link+router) and [NETGEAR Nighthawk X10 – AD7200] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X10-Quad-Stream-R9000-100NAS/dp/B01M12RE4A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499805113&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=netgear+ad) though you won't see much improvent with those over current routers due to 60GHz being somewhat impractical. Which one that works best for you will depend on how many devices and the amount of data you are pulling through at any one time. You may need to upgrade your internet as well depending on your current plan with your ISP. Fast is subjective so it really depends on how fast you want to download. This is a good mid range router [TP-Link AC-1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1900-Wireless-Wi-Fi-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499805331&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=tp+link+router) which is most likely more then enough for the majority of people.
If money is not an issue look at the Nighthawk lineup. The R7000 is highly rated and sells for $159 on Amazon. Or you can go for the gold and look at the X10 for $449.
On the other end of the scale is the TP-Link C7. Reasonably priced but a good performer.
You can find and read reviews yourself for both. If you're having this much of an issue with wireless routers though is it the environment rather than the routers?
For example, are there many other nearby networks that could be interfering, using the same channel as you? If it's an old house could there be iron water pipes in the wall between the router and your PC that are blocking the signal?
Have you done signal strength testing, checking near the router then seeing if/how it drops off as you move away, into other rooms? Heatmapper and Acrylic would be free programs to try if you haven't done that.
my only other crazy idea......same price without the storage, so i'd need to add external usb hdd.....i could use a better router anyway, not sure again about this things processing power for transcoding and ease of use, wouldn't pay $500, but $374 seemed a bit less insane:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X10-Quad-Stream-R9000-100NAS/dp/B01M12RE4A/ref=br_prlt_slcty_pdt-12?_encoding=UTF8&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_r=5RMFHKVDP39RG87AEMWJ&amp;pf_rd_r=5RMFHKVDP39RG87AEMWJ&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=9c0cae06-c00e-464e-90a7-46a75fda5872&amp;pf_rd_p=9c0cae06-c00e-464e-90a7-46a75fda5872&amp;pf_rd_i=15576689011
I'll go the extra step and go buy a new NETGEAR Nighthawk X10 AD7200 802.11ac/ad Quad-Stream WiFi Router
I think finding a router that has gigabit throughput at that price may be a challenge.
My personal preference would be pfSense on an older i5 Desktop.
One thing is to check out Mikrotik hEX
When I first got gigabit I found this review helpful
EDIT:Spelling and fixing links
Who's your fiber provider? If it's Centurylink, beware Pfsense (pppoe limited to single threaded in FreeBSD) and, to an extent, Ubiquiti routers (had really weird pppoe bugs a few years ago, may be fixed now). I've been on Centurylink gigabit fiber for 3 years now with this simple Mikrotik Routerboard and it's been chugging along great.
I was going to use this little guy. He’s pretty capable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSUMVUB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jEtYAbQ3NJ7W9
Thank you for the information. I came across this post when looking at mikrotik and windscribe.
From the post it seems like I could get this router then install open wrt?
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UPnP is like locking the door and leaving the key in the keyhole. Not being paranoid, and 99.9% of the time nothing will happen, but looking at the router logs, I get about 1000-1500 attempts per 24hr cycle from various IPs to connect to my NAS which is on the network, I rather not open everything to everyone, because there is a chance that one might get through to some new vulnerability detected a day ago.
That aside, good routers with good default security will scan packets regardless and will allow traffic in/out just fine without even setting port triggers/port forwards, with a bit more decent security profile so UPnP isn't required.
The market is just flooded with the basic routers/switch combos and people don't know they can buy ISP grade routers for half the price, compared to those home toy routers.
Example for $111
This is a better router/switch combo as anything on the consumer market, requires some basic understanding.
Example #2 $51
Cheap quality full featured, gigabit router, without WiFi.
People just don't know that those things exist, and perform way better as any Linksys, NETgear, Asus or other "toy" routers. If you want latest greatest WiFi, don't buy a router, buy a module which will work on any network, others B/G/N is enough for most home use and gaming.
Small but performs well, is an actual router, and is only $51 -> https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB750Gr3-5-port-Ethernet-Gigabit/dp/B01MSUMVUB/
If you want to be even cheaper than that, get rid of gigabit and it's only $38 -> https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RouterBOARD-lite-ports-router/dp/B00ZPTW8T2/
Yea from an absolute budget perspective, if you just replace Router 1 with something with a lil more umph, preferably this cheap Mikrotik hEX ($60) router. Or if gigabit speed is not a concern, then you can go with this 100Mbps Mikrotik hEX lite ($40)
I just wanted something that I could customize (Mediacom's default Modem/Router required me to call them to change something as simple as the SSID) so I just grabbed this Netgear R7000 and it's worked fine for me.
I can make settings, it's got 2.4 and 5ghz networks, as well as a 2.4 and 5 Guest Network option.
It's been great for what I need, which is just something reliable that I can manage and not have to mess with constantly. That and the new modem have been huge for me not having to constantly deal with slow internet, or dropped wifi.
Orbi netgear looks like a space egg: link
This netgear looks like that triangle plane the military has: link
These are little white squares, mesh wifi link
> TC8305C
https://www.amazon.com/Arris-Techniclor-TC8305C-Telephony-Wireless/dp/B00VCOAJA4
what you have is the rental gateway... basically, its an all in one, modem, router, voip (eww on comcast voip btw).
You could have it set to bridge mode, to use your own router, but I have heard too many stories of bridge mode being turned off. You also indicate an asus router. https://www.amazon.com/Asus-WL-520GU-ASUS-Wireless-Router/dp/B000R3BTDC
That's not a very good router for gaming... you would be better served with https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B01NA80JML/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494273527&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=netgear%2Br7000&amp;th=1
So would any of the RT Asus routers on Amazon do this as a feature?
https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Band-Supporting-AiProtection-Accelerator-RT-AC5300/dp/B0752FD3XJ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1535864879&sr=8-6&keywords=asus%2Brouter&th=1
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I don't need xfinity to trust what data my router records. It proves that the company is incompetent and cannot track data accurately. If I can track all of my data locally, then there is a problem with their tracking non local. It is enough to get surcharges for my bill removed or create legal action from a large customer base. I talked to a comcast tech that came out today and he stated he has been getting the same call for the same reason all week. People are all of the sudden hitting their 90% cap when they have never been close before and have not changed their habits. It smells like a great big scam to get people to sign up for unlimited.
T-Mobile AC-1900 by ASUS. Covers my whole 3000 ft house. Best router for money easily, I always recommend it. I myself use it on two properties. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075GYWPCJ/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525738677&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65 $48 on Amazon for refurbished plus $4 for 4 year protection plan. Easy to set up.
I have the ASUS AC2900 that only works for internet. It will not work if you have cable through CB as well. With that being said, I have the 500 mbps service and am consistently above that when running speed test.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752FD3XJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It likely sold out.
If you can go to $60, I strongly recommend the Asus TM-AC1900. It's one of the best routers on the market and you can easily flash a custom firmware (I've done it half a dozen times) to continue getting security updates.
Refurbished routers aren't a bad thing. They have no moving parts, so there's isn't much to go bad. I own three and actively use two (the third is a test/backup) with zero issues with gigabit speeds.
Are you measuring speeds in megabits or megabytes per second? Because 5 megabits per second is quite bad, barely enough for a single HD video stream. If you are getting that speed through a wired connection you need to make sure your modem isn't faulty.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ
A refurb Asus AC68U is dirt cheap for the performance it offers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075GYWPCJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524392263&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tmobile+router&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41jdIGFhVYL&amp;ref=plSrch
Also before you buy anything try updating the firmware.
I'd recommend it, I started off using it after DDWRT on an old WRT54GL, the original Tomato firmware hasn't had any changes now in several years but many more projects have come and gone like Tomato-USB, Advanced Tomato, Shibby, Toastman, and many more I'm missing that are all based on the code.
I found Advanced Tomato to look the most modern and have much of the same features as other firmwares, check out the website for supported hardware. With some doing you can make this T-mobile branded one into a proper router, which is worth the effort.
For anybody else who sees this via search, this is the best deal which runs from time to time:
Modem and Router.
If you just want the modem, I have it and it works fine on Comcast Xfinity and RCN - it goes for $50 on sale all the time and will pay for itself in under a year.
Lots of other router options, but that one is pretty good. I highly recommend this one if your technically inclined to flash it: Asus Tmobile. Sometimes you can find new on SlickDeals or other sights for about $50-$60.
I have this one, T-mobile branded (and firmware) top-rated Asus.
This is the best price Amazon has had for months, probably sold out today.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523485890&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ac1900
Buy this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-AiProtection-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B075GYWPCJ
You can keep the tmobile software if you want, it wont hurt anything. Or you can reflash it.
Instructions here:
https://slickdeals.net/f/9330575-asus-tm-ac1900-wireless-ac1900-dual-band-gigabit-router-59-free-shipping
Tmobile version of the ac68u sells for $65 right now. And someone is selling the normal version near me on craigslist. Is this a better value than the c7?
If you're comfortable flashing firmware, you can't beat buying a $60 refurb Asus ac1400 (which is identical to a $130 ac1900, ac68u) and flashing standard Asus firmware on it (read the reviews/Google a little for step by step tutorials). I got one 2 months ago and it's fantastic.
i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.
I carry one of these around in my travel bag for mis-(dumb)-configured guest wireless networks using 10.0.0.0/8 - and this _should_ work for any VPN technology, not just GP.
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-10400mAh-External-Performance/dp/B074LHG47K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=hootoo+wireless&qid=1559265987&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
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Any device will work as long as it can:
a.) join a wireless guest network & obtain a DHCP address
b.) NAT that address to a different RFC1918 network which is served by item c.)
c.) spins-up a new SSID for the new network (or lets you connect via wired Ethernet)
I’d just get a small WiFi router, here’s a real popular one:
HooToo Wireless Travel Router, 10400mAh External Battery TripMate Titan
You haven’t mentioned any WiFi requirements, but this device is 2.4ghz 802.11N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LHG47K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_90oCDbM9BNABF
Good luck!
Would this work ? I have it and what it does is it bridges a internet connection so for example you can connect this device to a internet connection and it makes a separate network would this work or would the blocking carry over ?
I travel with this wireless router. It really simplifies things. I can get it up and running and all my devices just work. It's also nice when the place you're staying limits the number of devices you can have online.
Check this out at Amazon.com
HooToo Filehub, Wireless Travel Router, iPhone iPad Portable SSD Hard Drive Reader, Photo Backup Device, 10400mAh External Battery Pack Travel Charger - TripMate Titan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LHG47K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_n0PuDbXC03J90
Roommate has this. He never shuts up about it. Hasn't broken yet.
Sadly that's the only thing I can say about it having never used it before. Good luck man, either way.
Never tried to cast a stream, and I have never checked If there are blimps in my up time so not sure if these will be of any help to you. However I haven't had problems in the past year streaming from Netflix or Amazon or extended outages in Woodfin with Spectum except during power outages. I've been using this modem off their approved list and this router
I have a previous model of this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNET-GL-MT300N-V2-Repeater-300Mbps-Performance/dp/B073TSK26W
Work fine, pretty basic but it'll do the job.
There are quite a few more options nowadays and if you look at 'best travel routers' lists this one is always on there:
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-10400mAh-External-Performance/dp/B074LHG47K
Get this Router and this Modem and you won't have an issue with your service. I have the 300mb/s service from WOW and consistently get 200+ mb/s wifi.
Router
Modem
I used to use their equipment and had garbage service. The customer service rep was either lying or doesn't know what they're talking about when they say you aren't going to get 100mb/s with your own equipment.
1500 square foot house.
This is what I was looking at right now:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NA80JML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVidBb96928W6
They already know I am purchasing my own router. I'm looking at the Nighthawk models and trying to decide if I should get the r6700 or the r700P. Think its worth the extra cash for the r700P? Almost 50% price difference.
something like this would do as well.
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https://www.amazon.com/R7000P-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible-Parental/dp/B01NA80JML/
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If you see the spec, there is something called meter to track daily/weekly usage.
I believe Asus, Linksys and others have similar feature as well.
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I wonder how they will be financing their VPN servers. Assuming that this router (like their previous one, https://passel.io/flter) includes a "lifetime VPN" licence, how can they pay their bills with potentially thousands of people using their service for many years.
A RT-AC86U for 180 - 200$ can already achieve up to 250mbit/s for OpenVPN (https://www.skadligkod.se/vpn/vpn-speedtest-asus-rt-ac86u-merlin-firmware/, https://www.snbforums.com/threads/openvpn-performance-of-the-rt-ac86u.41217/).
If the Beam is in the same price range (maybe up to 250$, including VPN and support etc), then it might definitely be a great option.
Something like this.
Get a travel router (like this: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-10400mAh-External-Performance/dp/B074LHG47K) and use it as a wireless router. Connect all your stuff on the new wifi and use your phone or laptop to logon the captive portal.
It's what I use on hotels, one logon and everything works automagically.
I've had this for a couple years now. I used it with the GearVR and Daydream headsets flawlessly. My video app of choice is Samsung VR because it supports travel mode. Should work with the Go as well.
I personally don't use cable internet anymore but Arris has been a great brand for me during my time on cable. Any problems I did have wasn't by the modem but was from the ISP, as recommended by other users on this subreddit. SB8200 is a great choice.
https://smile.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-Approved-SB8200-Frustration/dp/B07DY16W2Z/
As far as that router, I've heard good things about it. Another good alternative is the RT-AC86U https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0752FD3XJ/
When I was making a decision buying a router, I came down to AC86U and the X4S (R7800), ultimately I chose the AC86U because ASUS firmware is better since I can use Merlin with it which lets my router gets the most up to date security fixes / enhancements / etc.
You mentioned gigabit, are you planning to get gigabit with Xfinity? If you aren't then buying all this equipment is a bit overkill.
I have found the ASUS line to be very OpenVPN friendly, and great to work with all around. I thought they would max out at 15-20mbps through OpenVPN, which was true when I got mine a couple years ago, but I was recently enlightened that the AC86U can do about 200mbps through OpenVPN. That looks like a great option.
I would go with this as an AC router: ASUS AC2900 WiFi Dual-band Gigabit Wireless Router with 1.8GHz Dual-core Processor and AiProtection Network Security Powered by Trend Micro, AiMesh Whole Home WiFi System Compatible (RT-AC86U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752FD3XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-fFODbSPKP637
Grab a Asus RT AC-86U aka AC2900. Dont mix this up with its older and less powerful brother 68U. I had the 68U and it worked well and I am really excited for the upgrade.
The go for 120-140 used on amazon/ebay and have a dual core 1.8 Ghz processor which is absolutely killer for vpn purposes. You can also upgrade to Merlin firmware (based on stock with tweaks and approved by ASUS) and get even more tweaks for this router. And to top all that off this can be used in a mesh system with other ASUS routers. Give it a go! Cant go wrong with amazon return policy.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0768JFDPY $1,836 right now. MSRP $1,849
https://mikrotik.com/product/CCR1036-8G-2SplusEM MSRP $1,295
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M12RE4A/ $386
Where the hell are you getting 5 digits from?
You're really defensive about 5GHZ.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088CJT4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
With this router 5ghz simply didn't work on more than one level of the house. It was a huge difference in range and for my situation, yes, 5ghz was a gimmick.
I'm working with
and
I'd like a recommendation for a modem and router that can get me 200Mbps via WiFi.
T-Mobile AC1900
You can flash the normal Asus firmware to make it a stock Asus RT-68u. I did this for my parents and it's better than I expected.
Get this router:
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-band-Dual-core-AiProtection-Compatible-RT-AC86U/dp/B0752FD3XJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=asus+router+rt-ac68u&amp;pd_rd_r=6d79be60-e8c2-4447-97b9-08848a335a4b&amp;pd_rd_w=Nuw09&amp;pd_rd_wg=O5xDr&amp;pf_rd_p=bbfc4166-8a66-4c8f-87f6-af4f0436ec26&amp;pf_rd_r=7FVX5G1SQ4BMT8X556SM&amp;qid=1567279864&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
[“Junk”] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752FD3XJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6P.SCbDZ5ZDNV)
I was doing nice things but obviously I’m done with that. I prefer not to burn bridges but if someone else wants to take that route I’m not going to try to put out the flames. I’m not trying to do anything out of malice, I’m just now willing to do anything to legally get my money back consequences to them be damned. They made their bed and they can lie in it. I’m neutral to them now. The emotional part of me that doesn’t listen to reason still cared a bit when I wrote the original post but seeing how she’s treated my friend (OP of this post) has changed that real fast.
If it wasn’t explicitly said that I would get the deposit back at the end of July when the lease ran out it was heavily implied and understood.
The mention of nice things was irrelevant to the legal aspect of the situation, it was just to try to say that this situation isn’t one that I created through my own actions. Not trying to give myself good boy points because they’re meaningless.
>I recently moved to a new home and now have gigE internet service. Unfortunately, my old router and WAP can't handle the speed (Wireless-N Airport Extreme). To fix this, I about a TP-Link Archer C7, and I'm still not seeing the speeds that I want, but I'm still not happy with my performance.
Awesome. You made my shitlist of people I'm jealous of. lol Except that extreme router. lol
>When I connect the modem directly to my computer, I'm seeing 980 Mbps.
Seems about right.
>When the Aiport Extreme
Gonna stop you right there. Throw that thing away and bury it at a crossroads at midnight.
>and separate gigabit switch are involved, I'm seeing about 250 Mbps,
Exactly.
>and with the Archer C7 and gigabit switch, I'm seeing about 780 Mbps down.
rubs eyes How is that possible?
>So, I'm looking to take the Archer C7 back
Good!
>in favor of a USG and Unifi WAP. On average, what speeds should I expect from a USG?
I know I'm gatekeeping lol but it's A.P. The wireless is implied. This is where the questions start however.
>I need 1300 square feet of WiFi coverage.
You need unifi mesh to make things less labor intense. That or two unifi AC pros for solid coverage. You can get away with one (placed in the center most part of your home) if you absolutely had to do without.
You'll also need the following:
The concept is. You either buy a Ubiquiti Edge Router 4 / a Unifi Security Gateway with an SFP WAN. and have the ISP give you a direct fiber hand off and use one of the copper GTEK SFP patch cables to patch you over to a unifi / ubiquiti switch (please make sure this is either POE / not). This is a cost consideration. Hook your AP to the boona end of the switch and presto blamo you have just shy of a 1 gig internet access internally.
Good luck! Comment if you have any questions.