(Part 2) Best computer routers according to redditors

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B00S9SGNNS

Pick an SNMP monitoring tool. LibreNMS for example.
Point it at your ISP router.
Graph the utilization.

A picture is worth a thousand words (or more).

If your ISP router is incapable of being monitored by SNMP, inform management you can't do anything to troubleshoot the problem without data, so you need to buy a better router.

I'm a Cisco bigot. I prefer Cisco solutions.
But, if you are running on 10Mbps I doubt your company will be terribly interested in the Cisco pricetag.

But, an older, unsupported Cisco 1841 should be generally up to the task of a 10Mbps circuit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CISCO-1841-Integrated-Services-Router-Max-DRAM-378Mb-ADVENTEPRISE-15-1T-M-ios-/262025506256?hash=item3d01efedd0:g:gAIAAOSwFqJWjx6J

Any UBNT EdgeRouter can handle 10 to 100Mbps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012X45WH6/

Same for MicroTik:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019PCF3QY/

Once you have pretty graphs showing 90+% utilization for the entire business day, they might start to pay attention.

Non-technical managers believe anything a pretty graph tells them.

They have to appeal to the "Gamur" crowd that think having routers that look like eldritch sacrificial altars are cool.

The entire branding for game related gear is ridiculous, it's like the 90s all over again.

This is an AC2600 router, and is the update to the previous Nighthawk X4 model. Comes with a dual-core 1.7 GHz processor and supports MU-MIMO.

So far the reviews are good (currently ranked #1 in its category on SmallNetBuilder) and range as well as connectivity has been much improved over its predecessor. Overall, a pretty solid router and a great option for people looking to upgrade.

Be warned though: the router doesn't currently support custom firmware like Tomato or Merlin, and the version of DD-WRT it runs now is said to be unstable. If that doesn't matter to you, I think this is a great router.

EDIT: Sorry to everyone who missed out but the deal appears to be "dead" for now -- Newegg raised the base price to $235, making the final price $205. Newegg does change its prices pretty frequently based on stock or demand, so check back later if they drop the price again. The code EMCENFK32 should be good until September 22, 11:59 PM.

If not, the router is currently available for $200 via Amazon and Best Buy. $200 is still a very good price, see price history here.

Wireless router. Can't tell you how many friends I have that bought the cheapest possible one and are stuck replacing it once a year, instead of getting a solid router that will last basically forever.

I suppose this extends to all types of electronic peripherals that have very bad quality low-market options, but routers seem to snag people especially.

Pretty much yeah. I personally have this one: http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00S9SGNNS

The 5300 wasn't available when I bought mine.

$70 Asus RTN-16 running TomatoUSB. I have several older backups running DD-WRT for when interesting situations come up (like wanting a repeater out to my shed) but Tomato is just fine for day to day.

They are still for sale, at least the wrt54g is

Already bought a VPN-client-enabled router to keep the tunnel up for all devices 24/7. I expect the sale of these will soar in the coming years.

Edit: there are lots of these around now, based on specs and having some money to burn I went with this one. It supports VPN client natively without needing to flash the firmware or anything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Wireless-Access-Points/ASUS-RT-AC87U-Dual-Band-Dual-Processor-Dual-Core/B00MPI5N7U

For the best modem, get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016PE1X5K

And in combination with this router, you will get every bit of speed you pay for:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S9SGNNS

I regularlly get ~180Mbps down. Good luck! (I only pay for the 150 down plan)

It is: http://amzn.com/B0167HG1V6

Was looking into it some time ago, but opted for an extender instead.

A travel router is the way to go and this TP-Link AC750 has gone with me on every business trip the last 2 years with no issues.

I have Gigabit through EPB Fiber and I use an Asus RT-AC66U. It looks like there is a newer RC-AC87U.

On my router, I replaced the firmware with Merlin's firmware which adds some extra functionality.

It's nice having a built-in VPN and all the other features of Asus's firmware, but I doin't use many of them since I have a computer that acts as a server for that.

How about loading Tomato on a WRT54GL ($50)?

you referring to this monstrosity?

http://smile.amazon.com/RT-AC5300-Wireless-Tri-Band-AiProtection-Complete/dp/B0167HG1V6/

I think it's this one: https://www.amzn.com/B00RVIGY1I

I think I was able to remove the referral code. Sorry if I didn't.

A standalone wired router (e.g EdgeRouter X) and access point (e.g EAP 245) will perform much better than pretty much any consumer grade wireless router and allow for a lot more control/config, but you would be paying about $190 vs $110.

R7800 is $200 on Amazon US.

Look I have nothing against Ubiquiti products. But most of the time, for most users, consumer products like Netgear R7800 are more suitable than Ubiquiti APs.

I'd go with Ubiquiti products. Something like a Edgeroute X SFP and a Unifi AC lite.

I've got the slightly older Unifi AP and it's bulletproof. And with the X SFP you won't need the power injector for the AC lite. I setup the AC lite for a friend and it's also very solid, easy to use product.

Check out /r/Ubiquiti

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Ultimate-Wireless-Detachable/dp/B002YLAUU8

Runs fine under current stable build.

Just get a travel router. I use a this one and it's great: HooToo Wireless Travel Router, USB Port, High Performance, 10400mAh External Battery Pack Travel Charger - TripMate Titan (Not a Hotspot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RVIGY1I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_OX.fyb1HR6EMN your phone and Chromecast connect to it's Wi-Fi and you connect it to the hotel Wi-Fi

RAVPower FileHub

I used to love my WD Passport, until it died. Realized I was better off with something that let me use whatever storage media I wanted. Best of all, this thing lets me one-button back up the SD card to attached USB storage. With a low-profile 256gb thumb drive (eg) permanently slotted into the USB port, the whole thing becomes a shockproof (kinda) waterproof one-touch backup system.

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

I just bought one last week as my new travel router. It’s pretty badass.

Sure, it’s this ASUS RT-AC3200 model.

I specifically picked it because you can still add custom firmware. I can’t tell you much about getting it working, because it was a while ago.

Ubiquiti Edgerouter X can be configured as a switch. $50:

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539792273&sr=8-3&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter+x&dpID=41GEBnLIf4L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Maybe you might be interested in a Travel Wifi Router to rebroadcast the accessible WiFi into your own private, away from the ass, WiFi network.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Lower end routers only have 10/100 ethernet ports, according to the Amazon page so does yours. So anything you physically connect will be limited to 100Mbps.

The advertised 300Mbps refers to wireless bandwidth, but its still shady advertising.

Buy this modem and the router/wireless access point of your choice. I like this one but you can go cheaper or more fancy if you like. Connect the modem to the cable line and the router to the modem. Write down the MAC address and serial number for each thing.

Next, take a shot, and call comcast. Tell them you want their $35/month internet-only plan and you have your own modem. Connect the modem to the cable line before calling to make things easier. They will try to sell you some stuff and get some info, but just be patient and stay on target.

This is where it gets fun. If you've been graced by heaven, you'll be done in 5 minutes but I've never seen this happen. Most likely you will be transferred around to several people, having to repeat the same info while they struggle to activate your modem. They will claim there's no signal, they'll say "maybe it's not supported," and they'll very likely drop the call at least once. Keep calling and eventually, probably within 45 minutes to an hour, they will miraculously succeed.

It will end up costing $40/month, because there's some retarded $5 fee on top of the subscription. If they try to charge you for a modem rental or installation, challenge it immediately.

Yes, this is the easiest and cheapest way to get internet in this city. Fortunately, setting up gas/electric is about a 5 minute phone call with the lovely folks at national grid.

How cheap is cheap? I recommend this router Linksys WRT54GL to everyone because it works great and doesn't die after a year like other cheap routers. It's listed at $50 though, not sure if you consider that cheap. Check out the thousands of reviews on Newegg and Amazon, it's a solid, reliable wireless router that will last.

Also, I've read good things about these TP-Link Routers and they are cheaper (~$35), but I haven't used them so I can't personally vouch for them.

Asus RT N16. It supports Comcast IPv6 with a firmware upgrade through the default UI (maybe out of the box at this point). It also comes with a linux install by default. It appears to be running a *WRT custom ROM, but I'm not sure which. Either way its a nice little router with telnet to linux prompt available to help with debugging stuff when needed.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

Here are the specs:

Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5930K 3.5GHz Six-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Asus X99 Deluxe LGA2011-v3 Motherboard
Memory| G.Skill 2400MT/s C15 4x 4gb DDR4
Storage | Crucial MX100 512gb
Storage | Crucial MX100 512gb
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | ASUS PB287Q 4k UHD
Keyboard | HHKB Pro 2 white/gray non-printed w/hhkb pro 2 black keycap set
Mouse | Corsair M65 RGB
Mousepad|Mionix Propus 380
Video Card| Gigabyte Windforce OC GTX970
Video Card| Gigabyte Windforce OC GTX970
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Go Mic
DAC/AMP| Mayflower O2+ODAC w/rear power
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Webcam | Logitech C920
Router|ASUS RT-AC87U AC2400
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem

I don't have all my keyboards listed, but the one in the picture is a Corsair K70 RGB with cherry MX reds.

Buy a better wireless hotspot. If you pay 250$ for each there wont be problems anymore. Money will fix this!

they are literally called travel routers. Good friend of mine swears by his, which is this one

I use a "travel router": https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-10400mAh-External/dp/B00RVIGY1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500604698&sr=1-3&keywords=hootoo

I also take a network cable if the room has a jack, or i use the travel router to connect to the hotel wifi and I use my phone to authorize the router's mac with the hotel. Worst case I have a cellular hotspot that I can connect the router too.

I think ASUS RT-AC3200 would be able to cover majority of your house, if not the entire 5000sq feet. Or you can just buy a couple of TP-Link wife extenders

[I have the 1900p, but, asus routers have been rock solid for me. ] (https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Wireless-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-AiProtection/dp/B00S9SGNNS)

Don't buy the ERX from that seller?
Try the UBNT one below:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511550910&sr=8-1&keywords=Edgerouter+x

1. Yes - Follow the wizards/guides in the ERX configs.
   
2. Yes - I have three VLAN's set up on my Edgerouter.
   2a. I have tested the ERX as a VLAN switch and it works perfectly!
   
3. The UAP-AC-Lite is an excellent combo for small home networks.
   
   Fun fact, you can use one passive PoE brick (or switchport) to power the ERX and AC-Lite [daisy-chained together].
   

Great advice: don't spend $400+ on a home router.

The range is limited by FCC regulation. A $30 router can go as far as a $5000 router. What you need is to get a good router and a few wireless access points. This way, each access point adds to your coverage. It also allows your client devices to reach the closest access point.

Wifi is like having a conversation. If I put you at the other end of a football field with a gigantic megaphone, I'll hear you just fine, but there's no way I will be able to reply to you.

Get a decent router, with or without wifi, and then a couple of APs. A good combo : Edgerouter-X ($50) + 3x Unifi AP AC Lite ($75). For $275, you will end up with enough coverage to cover about 12,000 square feet. Add a switch for additional ports (maybe $25) and for $100 less than these "super duper router" you'll get much better coverage. Upgrade the Edgerouter X for an Edgerouter Lite for $25 more and you'll get full gigabit capabilities.

Yeah, you should be getting more than that on most hardware especially on 5g bands.
You won't ever get what the line is capable of, overhead and all that jazz.

I'm on spectrum 1gig over coax. The up is severely limited, I get max like 50mb on a good day but my pixel 3 xl on 5g just cleared 370mbs down via fast.com.

https://i.imgur.com/FyrGz4p.png

I've been using this router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_nwQjDb2M89SGX
for almost 2 years, best router I have ever had.

First, here's [the list of compatible modems](https://teksavvy.com/services/internet/hardware/?code=sCable25&itemId=3710
) for their cable plans. Anything in that list will work. I got this Hitron CDA-RES but it doesn't seem to be available anymore. This Hitron CDA3-20 seems to be the newer model. If you have time that's also the kind of thing you can find on kijiji - nearly any somewhat recent Shaw cable modem should work, since in Alberta TekSavvy uses Shaw's network.

Note that that's just the modem - a box that receives the ISP signal through a coaxial cable and gives internet access through a network cable. It's not a router - the router's job is to manage the various devices on your network. Technically a router isn't a wifi access point either although in most consumer devices the 2 products are combined to make a wireless router.

For the router and wireless portion, you can use anything you want. Personally I now use a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X as a router and a Ubiquiti UniFi AP-AC Lite as a wireless access point. edit to add: if you want help deciding on what network equipment to get (router, wireless AP, wireless router, mesh setup, etc), check out /r/HomeNetworking - they're really good at helping not so tech savvy (lol) people setup a solid network.

Hope that helps!

Ditch that ISP provided gear, if at all possible. I know additional costs aren't always in the budget, but if you have the ability to, you should consider getting a router that you control.

Once upon a time I invested $49 into a little Edgerouter-X and it was just an incredibly powerful little device for the money. Blows away any of the usual consumer grade (Linksys, Netgear, etc.) stuff that most of us have been accustomed to. It essentially has Enterprise grade features at a consumer price point. It also has a built in switch chip, so you can plug multiple machines into it, perhaps even power a wireless access point using the eth4 for its (24V Passive) PoE out abilities. Physical placement of your WiFi device(s) matters a LOT. Lots of homes have them tucked away in a little corner, which isn't great unless you want 50% of your signal to be broadcast towards your neighbors. YMMV.

Be advised this is a router only, so you'd also need to consider what you'll do for WiFi, but it's simple enough to convert whatever you are using presently to behave as merely an access point to provide WiFi (unless it's a combo router/switch/wireless access point, all-in-one unit from Comcast). In that case, /r/Ubiquiti also makes fantastic wireless APs, for example: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

>I had no idea that the model numbers even meant anything specific across manufacturers.

They generally don't. That would be an uncommon exception and not the rule.

You're confusing "Product descriptions in titles on websites" with "Model numbers".

Let's examine Amazon's offerings:

-

Description: TP-LINK Archer C7 AC1750 Dual Band Wireless AC Gigabit Router, 2.4GHz 450Mbps+5Ghz 1300Mbps, 2 USB Ports, IPv6, Guest Network

Model name: Archer C7

-

Description: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (R7000)

Model number: R7000-100PAS

-

Description: TP-LINK TL-WR940N V3 Wireless N450 Home Router, Up to 450Mbps, 3 External Antennas, IP QoS, WPS Button

TL-WR940N

-

Description: D-Link DIR-813 AC750 Wi-Fi Router

Model number: DIR-813


-

In summary: Model numbers generally don't mean jack shit. There's probably one or maybe two or perhaps a handful of retail routers out there with their specs in their model number but it is a rare exception and not an industry wide practice.

It seems to me that what you really meant to say is "I had no idea product specs meant something" or "I had no idea a number with an N or AC was the router's total bandwidth" and again - knowledge is power. Now you know more. But these are the very basics and they can all be inferred from reading a couple of products' specifications.


In defense of Zeyn1 he never stated this falsehood that these were model numbers. You made that part up yourself. He never once states those N(X) or AC(X) numbers are model numbers. You either misunderstood him or, more likely, the advertisements for routers.

To put it simply there is a near-zero difference in saying "AC1750/1900/3200" and saying "1750/1900/3200 Mbps" because you'd never find a router rated for that bandwidth that wasn't AC.

It is a very convenient way to separate between the two protocols whilst still revealing the most marketable property of a router - its wireless bandwidth.

I am of the opinion that the linked comment doesn't go into any real depth about anything. It is becoming of the ELI5 subreddit but does it belong here? I think not.

But that's just my perspective and someone with even more knowledge than me would come to the same conclusion about a comment that goes ten times deeper than that one so it is indeed all subjective.

What we got from att: https://m.att.com/shopmobile/cellphones/att/wireless-home-phone-and-internet.html

the router we are using is via ethernet port: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0167HG1V6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500783438&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=asus+5300&dpPl=1&dpID=41W-l7KcX6L&ref=plSrch

to be honest, none of those are really good for what you need, you need a better wifi.

a home network router is usually three devices in one,

• a router (small computer in the class of a raspberry pi),
  
• a switch (to get you more ethernet ports)
  
• a wifi accesspoint
  
  In some cases manufacturers will even add a modem.
  
  What you need is an accesspoint, ... (or a home router that can be configured as an accesspoint). It allows wireless clients (stations) to connect to the wired lan.
  
  It doesn't do any routing/nat/firewalling/... all it does is broadcast an SSID, allows devices to connect, and whenever it receives a packet over wireless, forwards it to the wired lan, .. whenever it receives a packet from wired lan, forwards it to the wireless client. That's it.
  
  ---
  
  What you could also probably do, is have a cascading setup, where you never connect directly to the Huawei, but have something like this:
  
  [huawei 192.168.1.1]----[192.168.1.2 new wifi router 192.168.2.0/24]---))) all other wired and wireless devices
  
  On your router, before connecting it to anything, you'd reconfigure the lan ip range to something non-conflicting with huawei, like 192.168.2.0/24 .. and you'd configure the wan ip to a static ip. Then on the huawei, you'd setup a DMZ, which in homerouters is used to mean, "forward all ports" to 192.168.1.2 (your router). Then you'd connect the two.
  
  This setup would also make sense considering the way things are now, your ISP practically has control over your firewall.
  
  ---
  
  list of hardware that's generally liked around here and considered worthy spend of money:
  
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/cap_ac (coming out in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/hap_ac2 (coming out in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RBwAPG-5HacT2HnD (replace with cap ac in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RB962UiGS-5HacT2HnT (replace with hap ac2 in march)
  
• https://mikrotik.com/product/RB750Gr3 (use hap ac2 in march)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-lite/ (just an ap, needs a unifi controller software)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/ (bigger antennas than lite - slightly more sensitivity)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-routing/usg/ (just a wired router works with unifi controller)
  
• https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ (poor mans version of RB750Gr3)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ (cheap wifi router, slow cpu, older versions well supported by opensource, newer versions have similar hardware so could be supported one day)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-R7800-100NAS-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA (really good router, good opensource support)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Wireless-Anywhere-WRT1900AC/dp/B00KEK4Q5Q (good router, really good opensource support)
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Dual-Band-Wireless-Tri-Stream-WRT3200ACM/dp/B01JOXW3YE (good router, really good opensource support)
  
  Opensource support is relevant for security and longevity of the device, .. mikrotik and ubiquiti products generally are supported for at least 5 years, and are fairly popular.
  
  ---
  
  > In regards to my EEE PC, I've heard rumours that you can re-use a computer as a router, so would it be worth using it as a WiFi AP instead
  
  yes this is assuming the specs / performance are better than a modern router, in your case the 901 doesn't have a good wifi, and has only one 100mbps wired port, it's also has a 10 year old early atom as a cpu.
  
  folks using computers as routers are either buying ryzen these days, or buying 5 year old refurbished core i5 thin clients and stuffing more gigabit nics .. generally accesspoints are the way to go for wifi, usually the pc doesn't deal with wifi in those setups.

Forget about a card. You'll get a faster, more reliable connection with a bridge and won't need to screw around with drivers. If your router is 802.11AC, get this one for $35. If your router is 802.11N, get this one for $30. In either case, put it in "Client" mode and connect it to your computer with a short Ethernet cable. Also connect a USB cable from the computer to the bridge to power it so it'll turn on/off with your computer.

I would go for Linksys WRT54GL. I haven't got one, but I did get recommendations from a few friends who do. If you're into Linux, you might like it for it's support for Linux-based (3rd party) firmware.
> Fully supported by Tomato, OpenWrt, and DD-WRT.

As I see now, it doesn't seem to support wireless-n, so if you need this feature for your wlan, keep that in mind.

Here's a wiki link for WRT54G series, you might check that out.

Btw it's 10 bucks cheaper on Amazon...Just bought one.

Link

RT-N16

A buddy of mine is really into routers and he spends an inordinate amount of time researching and trying to eek out the most performance so I always end up buying what he has and flashing whatever ROM he's using. He and I are using the ASUS RT-N16 with TomatoUSB. It's incredibly easy to flash and my network has been fast and stable.

Oh, well obviously you just need a new router then, haha.

If you want a cheap one, go on and get one, I suppose. If you want a nice one, you'll be spending about $100.

I personally have this one, and if you want to go insane and get something you REALLY don't need, I suggest this.

:D

4 people streaming regularly on a $40 router is probably asking for reboots and slowdowns. I don't own any of the routers on this review site, but you might want to look that over. Their pick for best cheap router is the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600

You have to think of routers like little computers that literally route network signals to each of your devices within your home. Just like a computer, the cheaper routers have slower processors and less RAM, which can slow things down pretty quickly when multiple people are doing bandwidth-intensive things like streaming.

I'd seriously consider upping your budget if you want a smooth streaming experience in your house.

Personally, I have a ASUS RT-N66U and it's an amazing router, and I've never had a single issue with it, but it's well above your price range.

I just put in a small system with a Reolink RLC-410 camera and I really like the camera. This one is wired, but since you rent, you might want to go wireless--the ones with little wifi antennas that just link up wirelessly to your wifi.

Reolink comes with a phone app that handles up to 16 cameras on your smartphone--I check my property from anywhere over the app whenever I want. I really like it, and the picture quality is awesome, as the Amazon reviews attest. Night vision is awesome, too. The infrared leds illuminate at least 65 feet out. Price isn't bad, either. Wireless will be more. Reolink has them; sorry to sound like a shill.

For recording the footage, I got a Synology NVR 216. A little pricey, but it did what I wanted--record about 2 months worth of 24/7 video feed for liability purposes.

This NVR is "diskless", which means that it comes without hard drives, which have to be purchased separately. I got one 4 TB Western Digital Purple, which is "optimized" for surveillance applications, whatever that means. The system has been recording a single camera's feed basically 24/7 since May 14, and has so far used 586 GB of the 3,000 GB available on this single hard drive, or about 17% of available capacity. Obviously, if you have two cameras, the storage requirement doubles; with four, quadruples. And, yes, I've already purchased another camera. I'll probably have four total, like you, in the future, when my requirements shift from liability to security. This particular NVR holds up to two hard drives, and an expansion kit allows up to 8 more. I really should get at least one more hard drive.

My particular system is currently set up as wired, meaning the camera and NVR are both connected to my wifi access point/router with network patch cables--those ubiquitous ethernet, Cat 5, RG-45 terminated "computer cables" that connect work computers to the jack in the wall, etc.

If you go wireless, especially with four cameras, you'll have to upgrade your local network to gigabit speeds. I should do that, too, and when I do, I'll probably go with a Linksys WRT AC3200. I'm currently running a Linksys WRT-54GL and, frankly, my local LAN bogs down a bit when I stream a movie while the video gear is running (which is all the time).

Guess I'm a bit of a geek. There are actually a lot of people here who are knowledgeable with DIY security CCTVs. I started from zero back in April or May, asked advice here, and actually went with Synology after it was recommended by a regular, here. I'll find that link, later; need to run right now. Update: You'll probably find this link interesting; it's a /r_neworleans thread from six months ago--lot's of perspectives different from my own that may work better for you.

One more thing: I had originally used DHCP to assign IP addresses to the camera and NVR, but the camera kept renewing its lease to a different address, and the NVR stopped recording when it lost the feed. I finally got around to puzzling out how to assign static addresses. Turns out that the WRT software assigns DHCP addresses at 100 and above. So, I just set the camera to 192.168.1.50 and the NVR to 192.168.1.51. Also, the Synology requires port-forwarding to be set up in your router--this was also dead simple. I read documentation for about an hour, then just forwarded some port, I think it was port 5000, in what looked like the right place in the router's set-up software, and it just worked. This way I can access the archive video from my smartphone, as well as the live feed.

I know all this sounds complicated, but it's really not, and there are people here who know this stuff and are more than willing to help out. Also, I know I spent around $1000, which is a lot of money for me. It was hard for me to pull the trigger on all this. But it covers a liability exposure that exceeds my net worth--in other words, an exposure that could force me into bankruptcy. In that light, it was a reasonable price to mitigate a serious risk. I'm satisfied with both the gear and the price.

WRT54GL + Tomato

Bump because Tomato is awesome. I advise you buy the WRT54GL if you don't have a router that can support Tomato already.

You just need a USB-enabled router that is supported by openwrt. I have this guy. Installing everything takes some effort (depending on how much you already know about Linux it's pretty easy). Google should help you with the process, though. I have a 2TB hard drive on the USB that is accessible like a normal windows shared folder from the home network and via ssh from the internet.

Die Frage ist wie viel Kenntnis du hast und wie viel du basteln möchtest - zudem wäre die Frage auch wie schnell das ganze sein soll.

Du kannst das im Prinzip alles selber bauen, wenn du einen Router kaufst der OpenWRT/LEDE unterstützt und z.B. eSATA oder USB3 Anschlüsse hat und ein wenig mehr CPU Power als üblich.

Dann kannst du die Festplatte über Samba anschließen (als Netzlaufwerk einbinden in Windows und co.) und über DLNA kannst du auch über Smartphone z.B. Fotos oder Videos direkt an die XBox leiten lassen oder ansehen. https://www.howtogeek.com/255016/how-to-play-video-and-music-files-on-your-xbox-one/

Soweit so gut - praktisch kostet dich ein fähiger Router auch im Moment >100€ und meistens kann die Herstellerfirmware auch schon Freigaben und DLNA nur mit etwas mehr Klicki-Bunti.

Wenn die Geschwindigkeit nicht so toll sein muss und dir so 3-5Mbyte/s genügen - reicht für Filme und Bilder, aber schnell ist anders - (vor allem wenn du größere JPEGs oder Filme hast und speichern willst) kannst du auch einen günstiger Router mit USB2 nehmen.

Sowas hier ist State of the Art - https://www.amazon.de/Linksys-MAX-STREAM-EA8500-EU-Wireless-2600Mbit/dp/B00WSDFJQW - aber auch unglaublich teuer - dafür auch richtig fix, wenn du noch andere AC-WLANs hast oder per Gigabit angebunden bist und eine USB3.0 externe hast - Der Unterschied ist hier 5-10Mbyte/s vs. 50-100Mbyte/s lesen und schreiben.

Für USB 2.0 und ohne 5GHz würde dir das hier genügen: https://www.amazon.de/TP-Link-TL-WR1043ND-Ultimate-Anschluss-Glasfasermodem/dp/B002YLAUU8

Kann dir leider nicht viel zu Nutzerfreundlichkeit sagen, aber auf beiden Modellen kannst du LEDE/OpenWRT installieren und alles selber installieren z.B. DLNA - ist aber nicht so richtig einfach.

Die Firmwares sollten das können. Dann gibt es noch ASUS Router die wohl eine gute Firmware und guten Ruf haben und auch flexibel sind - dort ist aber der Support für OpenWRT/Linux eher schlecht.

Vielleicht kann noch jemand schreiben, was da grad der Preis/Leistung/Performance King ist - vermute gibt auch gute USB3 Geräte für <100€ bin aber nicht so Tief im Thema drinnen, Sorry!

Edit: Auch schau mal - das hier sieht gut aus: https://www.amazon.de/RT-N18U-Diamond-Router-Gigabit-TurboQAM/dp/B00MGV56XM und wäre deutlich günstiger. Kann auch Freigaben und DLNA und ist fix mit USB3.0

Modems are all pretty much the same, as long as you get a DOCSIS 3.0 one. That's the one spec you need to look out for. Pick whatever fits in your budget. Buy it used.

Routers are a lot different in that performance actually does change across different makes and models, so just go on amazon and do your research. I use this one and I'd give it a 9/10: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Ultimate-Wireless-Detachable/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381621067&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+router

The way you have it set up is as separate as they can get. The access point mode I mentioned is not a default so if you are unsure what it is then it's not likely you have gone through the steps to change it over to that. I would suggest a better router to be honest. The ones you have were great in their day, but that was ages ago.

This is a very nice one that won't set you back all that much either. It supports most of the major 3rd party firmwares as well. You may also want to look into an offshoot of OpenWRT called Gargoyle. Their page can be found here. I mention this one because it has a lot more bandwidth controls than others I've seen. It even allows you to set quotas for specific devices or a shared quota between a few devices as a group.

I have this at home...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YLAUU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought it in October 2014. I've never purposefully rebooted it. It gets rebooted rarely when there are power outages in lightning storms.

Edit: I can't get it to open ports for specific multiplayer games, but it is solid as a rock.

very similar stats to my personal one. for beer money, i got a few like this https://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483566747&sr=1-5&keywords=asus+n+router

i did that because my older devices had 802.11g at best, so they didnt need super fancy wifi. since they weren't pushing much traffic, i didnt care about gigabit for their wired upstream.

if you hadn't heard already, one guy i met on here was using a linux proxy to speed up ad load times and cut down on outgoing bandwidth. his devices would still serve up the ads, but the proxy box would recognize the url and correctly serve it up without going out the internet. i think it cutdown his outbound traffic by 90%.

i'm mentioning it out here because it still shows the ads, i would think the companies should be ok with this practice as it saves them bandwidth too.

i dont remember the name of the linux proxy box. it was open source and free, but effective.

I have the single-band (cheaper) version of this, works great:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

Yes, he can just "plug-n-play", more or less (meaning installing software from a CD most times). I have to have a higher end router than has more local area throughput because I have quite a bit running at any given time; 3 laptops, a desktop, 2 Roku devices, 3 smartphones, and a tablet. Also, I have my media server constantly on so that I can use my Roku devices to watch movies and such since I don't watch cable TV.


For all of this I use the Netgear N600. Before owning this one, I went through a Cisco Valet, a Linksys E4200, a few Belkin N series routers (ranging from the 450 to the 750) and none of them even compare to the absolute work-horse style power of the Netgear N600, from what I've experienced. The only thing I wish was different is that it had gigabit LAN ports, but it's not crucial.

To OP: If it's not too much trouble, what are you going to be running on this network? If you're going to be running a lot of different devices as I do, then a higher end router will give you better stability under heavy load.

I'm listening! And now that I have looked at what cell modems do, I can't believe we didn't think of this.

The physical location is doable, but I'm not sure I have enough expertise to know how to make those elements work together.

My limited understanding is that I would put the cell modem on the hill, hook it to a wifi router with a beefy antenna pointing down at the camp. The camp end would have another wifi router with an antenna feeding the broadband "input."

The ultimate goal is to be able to access the Internet and place voice calls, which could be VOIP. It would be really nice to be able to do video calls like Skype, FaceTime, or WhatsApp, too.

So, hypothetically, would something like this work:

1. 4G cell modem: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQRHQYT/ref=psdc_284715_t1_B00KTLAEQ0
   
   
2. Two wifi routers. Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=zg_bs_300189_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M9QF325AYXRX9Q47AE9D
   
   
3. The point-to-point antennae. Would these work? Link: https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Bridge-Lite-EZBR-0214-Outdoor-Wireless-System/dp/B002K683V0
   
   
4. Appropriate power supply for each element. Most likely 12V solar batteries with whatever capacity of inverter is needed.
   
   
5. Possibly add the optional 3G/4G antennae to the cell modem for a better connection with the cell tower.
   
   The end result is an Internet connection that all of our wifi devices at camp could use, but they would be sharing whatever data plan the SIM in the cell modem has.
   
   Does that seem workable to you?
   
   Thank you very much for the suggestion, falcon5nz! You have already given me better help than two months of trying to talk to industry people!
   
   Edit: The wifi router on the hill would be redundant, wouldn't it? The cell modem could just connect directly to the point-to-point antenna, maybe?

To support these speeds, one would also need an N300 router.

I have a TPLink WDR3600, but if they're not going to be using the wired connection then the TPLink WDR3500 which only differs in its lack of gigabit ethernet is $15 cheaper.

Also, this is fun, but if OP lives somewhere with a lot of other WiFi routers around then these two routers have the ability to broadcast on both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz channels. So if she has an 802.11a/b/g/n card instead of the 802.11b/g/n, then they can connect on the 5GHz channel which is much less cluttered because most people only use the 2.4GHz channel.

As an example, this card does 5GHz, and this card does not. With a lot of nearby WiFi signals, I would opt for one of those TPLink routers and the first WiFi card. If instead they live in an area with well separated houses or neighbors who don't have WiFi, then the second card would be fine and can be used with any kind of 802.11n router. The performance difference between 2.4GHz and 5GHz is basically meaningless for what OP needs, except in the case of lots of interference from other signals. (FWIW, I live in a city and see two dozen 2.4GHz wifi signals but the only 5GHz one is mine. I get 55Mbps on the 5GHz channel and if I connect on the 2.4GHz channel then I get 40Mbps. Without interference, it should be 55Mbps on either one.)

Also note the 5GHz parts are always more expensive, because they also need the 2.4GHz parts to work with devices like most smartphones and most laptops.

I agree. I never used the modems routing capabilities.When my D-Link router died, I switched to the Asus AC56U and it's been rock solid since I got it.

OK. The Superhub 2 and 3 are both DOCSIS3 compatible, so it's not that.

I always configure Virgin's Superhubs in "Modem Mode", and then you can hook your own router up, which are generally much more reliable.

I actually have the 300Mbit service, and combined with this router: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MPI5N7U, I get 300Mbit down and 20Mbit up on my phone.

But, I suspect this is probably a Virgin network issue. Sorry mate.

If you have Comcast voice service, then you cannot use MOST of the after-market modems out there. You must get an eMTA: https://customer.xfinity.com/help-and-support/phone/requirements-for-digital-voice-modems/

There's far fewer of these than the regular kind. From what I can tell, the only real after-market option for eMTAs is just buying the exact same model that Comcast rents to you.

And it's not cheap: https://smile.amazon.com/Residential-Gateway-802-11n-GigaPort-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481066886&sr=8-1&keywords=emta

EDIT: To acknowledge /u/CBRjack and his incredibly helpful info about separating voice and data with two modems. Going to be trying this very soon.

I agree with swiftpanda16, plex probably isn't the right tool in this case. YouTube might be better?

Or skycoach.

If you're set on using plex, you could get a portable router like the Hootoo Titan and use that to connect your phone and laptop without internet.

Edit: It just occurred to me that the Hootoo can act like a NAS, just connect a flash drive and have everyone download the app. That may also work well.

Scenario: Where you are going, all you have is a TV with an HDMI port.

Resolution: You make the network.

What is needed:

• Plex Pass
  
• Plex Client: Android Tablet, or other that allows media sync like Windows 10 Store Plex App.
  
• Mobile Router: HooToo TripMate Titan is what I use.
  
• Roku Stick.
  
  Initial setup, Must do before you leave!
  
  
• Connect your Plex Client as normal to the network and sync your media.
  
• HooToo: Update firmware, Setup the Router security.
  
• Add HooToo to the Internet.
  
• Add the Tablet and the Roku to the HooToo.
  
• Setup Roku, add Plex App.
  
• Roku: Run Plex, go to Plex.tv/link to get the code to sync to your account.
  
• Plex Client: While the device is attached to the HooToo, Open up the Plex App
  
• Roku: At the top right where it shows the Plex Server, select the Plex Client from the drop down.
  
• Test the connection.
  
  Now you have an independent network with Plex running with 0 delay. I make sure to power on the HooToo Router prior to powering on the Roku.
  
  
  

\^
This is important


If internet only, then the following are solid choices

• Asus RT-ac88u, RT-AC3100 ($221), RT-AC3200 ($180)
  
• Synology RT2600ac ($200)
  
• Netgear Nighthawk X4s (R7800) - ($168)
  
  If you have TV service, then things get more complicated.

Amazing how many people still have that general model of router...I do some "IT-related-work", and frequently encourage customers to upgrade from these.

The biggest thing with these is that Wireless G has been out of use since around...2009, 2010? And while it says speeds are 54Mbps, that's a max theoretical, and is literally never reached by these devices. Practical speeds are 19-22Mbps.

It seems like your external antenna is helping with range, which would be another one of the pitfalls of wireless G.

Since you've asked for suggestions in some of the other posts on here, I would say if you wanted to upgrade, my recommendation would be a Dual-Band Wireless N (or if you wanted to spend more money, Tri-Band Wireless AC), where you use the 2.4GHz band and your antenna for the POGO players, and the 5GHz band for your personal devices (assuming that your devices have 5GHz capability). And, as others have said, you can use DD-WRT or something similar, and limit the available domains/ports.

Examples - Dual Band Wireless N or Tri Band Wireless AC. I used the Dual Band one for 4 years before I ended upgrading, and it worked great for me.

Awesome on you for wanting to try such an ambitious project!

Yes the range is surprising given the internal antenna (and I put it in a steel cabinet usually...). But, they do offer external antenna version, which I’m guessing would have a better range: Also says “4 GPIO” which could be helpful maybe..

GL.iNet GL-AR750S-Ext Gigabit Travel AC Router (Slate), 300Mbps(2.4G)+433Mbps(5G) Wi-Fi, 128MB RAM, MicroSD Support, OpenWrt/LEDE pre-Installed, Cloudflare DNS, Power Adapter and Cables Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RYRCbKF9K9XX

And they offer a 4G cellular one that you can create a VPN with to always access the machine (disclaimer... vpn is hard).

Not a phone, but Ty Hurd recommends this portable hotspot.

I would recommend one of these pocket sized travel routers from GL.inet. You can upload your own OVPN file to establish connection back home. Since it's at the router level, all your devices get routed back without needing OpenVPN installed to every device.

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF/

A lot of the GL.inet devices and similar clones all run OpenWRT, and come with a hand-holding extra web interface on top of that.
For instance, on the low end you might use this:

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNET-GL-MT300N-V2-Repeater-300Mbps-Performance/dp/B073TSK26W


I have personally used this one to provide a VPN-tunneled wifi (edit: and wired lan) network for devices that don't easily support openvpn, using a pfsense box on the remote end as the openvpn server:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBXMBQF

Yes. You're going to need a little hotspot router that creates your own network.

I've used a bunch of these and co-workers now use them too: GL AR-750S

You can take any captive portal hotspot, authenticate once, and setup your own WiFi network for Chromecasting, or in this case, a Wyze camera.

There are cheaper models, but this is really a great version with gigabit ethernet on-board and solid: https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

Travel router with wifi and 2 switch ports.

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=travel+router&qid=1563902829&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Console Cables with direct usb

https://www.amazon.com/16-4FT-Cisco-Console-Cable-Rollover/dp/B07RGNWGCM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=rj45+console+cables+dual&qid=1563902922&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOVhIMTdQVUgwTFpHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTYzMDU3M0lDODhDQkJQTVFGWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjg2OTk5Mlk5R0hPMUc1OFBJTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

USB crash cart

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Console-Portable-Adapter-Transfer/dp/B00IZGR6IK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=USB+crash+cart&qid=1563902990&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQzhFRkJRSjVZN05NJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg5NDM0MkpBTTRJVzhIMDBBNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDUyOTQ5M0xGN1VaUEpES1c0MiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Also on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Wireless-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-AiProtection/dp/B00S9SGNNS

Was looking for best performance for the money, and this is what I landed on.

When you are using fibre, you actually don't need a modem at all. It's a digital signal and a modem (modulator/demodulator) converts an analog signal into a computer readable digital signal.

You can get a coupler and a cable from amazon for pretty cheap, and I would imagine infinitecables.com would also have one.

What I did is I took the SPF out of the HH3000 and plugged it into an Intel X520 ethernet card. I plugged it into a computer running PFSense, and I have a PC running as a router. It's awesome.

You can also get something like this https://www.amazon.ca/UBIQUITI-ER-X-SFP-Edgerouter-X-Sfp/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=edgerouter+sfp&qid=1556291312&s=gateway&sr=8-2 altho I haven't tried this device.

There is an awesome thread at DSL Reports
https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31118482-Yes-you-CAN-bypass-the-HomeHub-3000

> unifi ap lite

$115 right now.

> edge router

I assume you mean the ER-X which is 82.66 and isn't in the Unifi product line.

So yes you're in for about $200 assuming you can get by with 3 Ethernet ports, or are you adding a switch to this setup as well? A full Unifi setup (Unifi router, switch and AP) starts at about $400 for the no PoE versions.

In any case unless the space you're servicing is absolutely huge and/or you have Gigabit upload (and need to use it) there's no practical benefit to it over a good consumer router.

Wow, you want to do all that with a Celeron Quad-core? If that's all I had I would throw CentOS 7 Minimal Server on it...
https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-7-minimal-server/

For easy GUI administration use
Webmin: https://lintut.com/how-to-install-webmin-on-centos-7/

For TM Backups use NFS or SMB: https://www.unixmen.com/setting-nfs-server-client-centos-7/ https://lintut.com/easy-samba-installation-on-rhel-centos-7/

To enable NFS on Mac: http://www.serverlab.ca/tutorials/osx/administration-osx/how-to-connect-mac-os-x-to-nfs-shares/

For DLNA use Plex Media Server (enable DLNA in settings): http://brettspence.com/2014/11/17/installing-plex-media-server-on-centos-7/

For Web app hosting etc. use Apache or Nginx with MYSQL & PHP: https://www.howtoforge.com/tutorial/centos-lamp-server-apache-mysql-php/
https://www.digitalocean.com/community/tutorials/how-to-install-linux-nginx-mysql-php-lemp-stack-on-centos-7

Use Webmin to administer your virtualhosts using the Apache module or use this Nginx module: https://github.com/vixh/nginx-webmin

For NextCloud use this script https://github.com/PietsHost/Nextcloud-Installation-Script

For DIY IoT edge device/gateway, there's no better for the money than EdgeRouter X + UniFi AC AP (Lite/LR): https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305813&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305859&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lite

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UAP-AC-LR-Networks-Enterprise-System/dp/B015PRCBBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494305879&sr=8-1&keywords=ubiquiti+ap+ac+lr

For VPN use OpenVPN (use this script): https://github.com/Angristan/OpenVPN-install
NOTE: With this script it remove passwords by default, just open the script up in a text editor and remove the "nopass" text (4 times) and your good to go! It's very easy to install and add/remove users.

Again, this is a lot for a small little machine to do, but this is how I would do it with the limited hardware you have.

Cheers!

First, get this router. It's not a wireless router, you'll deal with Wi-Fi separately.

Second, get several of these APs, as many as you can afford and have places to hook them up. It's almost always better to have more APs than faster ones. If you have any devices with 3-stream Wi-Fi, you could get these APs instead to allow them to run at full speed.

go and buy this

https://www.amazon.ca/MikroTik-Dual-concurrent-Access-Point-RB952Ui-5ac2nD-US/dp/B019PCF3QY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Hap+AC&qid=1550856480&s=gateway&sr=8-4

run one cable into port 5 on rogers to port 1 on this.

Log into the Rogers and disable consumer mode (turn on bridge mode)

log into the Mikrotik, do a firmware upgrade, setup your wireless and move in.

If you don't like/want Mikrotik

https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-ER-X-UBIQUITI-Router-Black/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=6EK5B2O6JHT4&keywords=edgerouter+lite&qid=1550856559&s=gateway&sprefix=edgerouter%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-4

I appreciate you don't want to spend extra money but the Rogers modems should be left as that.

Get a proper router and one less thing to worry about.

EdgeRouter-X. No integrated AP. Not compatible with DD-WRT, but a highly-configurable real business-class router. Also $60. Walk up the line if you want more features, but an excellent place to start.

Ubiquiti routers are cheap and work really well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_5_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493065866&sr=1-5&keywords=edgerouter

For your second problem, I had similar issues on my old home network. In my case, it was only when someone was streaming something from the server, though.

Anyhow, after doing tons of testing, I determined that my router was just not capable of handling what I was throwing at it any longer. I threw money at the problem and got a router that is overkill, but it completely fixed all my issues. I have a feeling your #1 and #2 issues are probably related.

We were having things happen like... if we were streaming from the Plex Server to the Roku (which is on WIFI), then page requests on our phones' web browsers would take 30-60 seconds to complete. It was pretty extreme and really bad. We just started using 4g at home, but then started running out of bandwidth.

You probably don't need a router as crazy as the one I got, but I would look for something in the $200-300 price range that has a dual core.

Not sure about your specific situation obviously, but in my experience living in various places across DFW has been that purchasing your own network hardware makes the biggest difference in internet quality. Especially if it's cable, go get your own 8+ channel modem and a decent quality router. This is what I've got and since then complaints around the house have reduced dramatically:

Modem:
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483071039&sr=8-1&keywords=Surfboard%2Bmodem&th=1

Router:
https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC5300-Wireless-Tri-Band-AiProtection-Complete/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483071162&sr=8-3&keywords=Asus+wifi+router

The router is pricier than necessary but I had gotten it for some of the extra parental features (specifically it can schedule internet time for the kiddos by their device)

Also it goes without saying that if your internet up to your house sucks, this kind of stuff won't make any difference. However most cable companies simply provide or lease whatever old equipment they have lying around, usually with an all in one modem/router which is less than ideal for reliability. Getting your own quality stuff can and will make a difference if this is the case.

I wouldn't go to best buy, I'd recommend buying it online. If you can't buy it online go to bestbuy and get them to price match an item.

I'd recommend this one.


Edit: If you want a newer option I'd recommend this one. ~$30 more

Get this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3FyRAbDTMRQ6M?th=1&psc=1
There is no need for an extender, try to avoid it at all costs. This router also has exceptional range. If you do need it in the end, you can buy the same extender that was offered, but I said buy it without it and see if you need it.

There are always better alternatives to a D-Link (or Belkin), both in hardware and software, and even in the same price bracket.

With your higher than rock-bottom budget - meaning you don't have to settle for the old TP-Link Archer C7 staple - I would recommend the Asus RT-AC66U_B1. It is based on the Asus RT-AC68U hardware and can also run the custom firmware from Merlin. Like its more expensive brother, it has very few complaints compared to most other consumer routers and good stock firmware.

Since you seem comfortable running DD-WRT or open source software in general, then an excellent alternative pick would be the Netgear R7000P with Kong's build. This is a MU-MIMO router, which could be handy in future.

Is it possible - Absolutely

Will it work for what you need - Maybe

I am assuming they only provide WiFi and not a wired connection in your apartment. If you do have a wired connection just use that to connect to GW.

First how fast is the apartments WiFi? The reason I ask is just to understand where a bottleneck could happen. If the apartment WiFi is really fast, you will probably see a significant degradation in speed. If it isn't blazing fast you may not notice as much of a speed hit. It just comes down to the capacity of the link.

Second what are you trying to accomplish? It is just for streaming or general internet access or are you planning on gaming where low latency is critical? Streaming and general internet access will probably be ok, gaming most likely will see significant latency. This is due to all of the additional "hops" you will have to make. Now the apartment WiFi itself may have poor latency to begin with.

To try this out you need a Wireless Client with an ethernet jack out. There are a couple different ways you can do this.

1. To just check and try it out you can always use a Windows machine with both WiFi and an open ethernet jack to bridge the two connections. Search for "How to Share Wireless Over Ethernet on Windows 10" on Google for some examples of how to do this. Your Windows machine will act like a router and pass the connection from WiFi to Ethernet. This really isn't practical for the long term, but it might work for something quick or a particular use case.
   
   
2. You can get a WiFi router that is DD-WRT compatible and as mentioned flash it with DD-WRT and set it up as a client.
   
   
3. You can get a small travel router that supports client mode natively. Something like this would work, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH.
   
   I am assuming that the apartment WiFi is dual band, ie both 2.4GHz and 5GHz. This may go against some people's thinking but when setting this up with either option 2 or option 3 above, you may want to try only using the 2.4 GHz band to connect to the apartment WiFi. There are multiple reasons why this might work better. First 2.4GHz propagates better over longer distances and through walls. So depending where the apartment access point is located you may get a better connection on 2.4 GHz. Second since 5GHz does not propagate through walls very well, especially fireproof walls typically in apartments, this would be better for you to use for your local WiFi network as you will have less interference from your neighbors. Finally, by keeping your backhaul link to the apartment on 2.4GHz and your local WiFi mainly on 5GHz you minimize the interference and time sharing between the two. I would at least try this configuration.
   
   Good luck and please report back on your success or failure. ;-)

Sometimes the hotel wifi is just congested, especially if it's running on 2.4GHz. That's why I take this 5GHz 802.11ac travel router with me to hotels in case they have ethernet available in the room or a limit on devices per room.

Edit: fixed broken link

I’ve heard of folks using this one: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Ac750+tp-link&qid=1558112027&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Well do you have fibre, adsl, or docsis?

Because you only need "channels" for docsis. Ther are WiFi chanals for diffrent frequecies and you want a router that does 2.4ghz and 5ghz.

With the amount of devices you have you want a router with high bandwidth, maybe 1.2gbs+ since you would want features like QoS on which would lower the theoretical max bandwidth.


EDIT:
Ah okay, i looked at your images.

Both look great, I personaly cant vouch for high end netgear devices but I can for ASUS routers.

This one has alot of feature that you may want to consider.

I mostly recommend this higher end router for the AiProtection with Trend Micro firewall, it can greatly protect your network from attacks.

How much are you looking to spend? Having said that..

----

unixwizzard's Recommended Home Routers

-----
ASUS :

$200 - ASUS RT-AC3200 Wireless-AC3200 Tri-Band Wireless Gigabit Router *

$130 - ASUS RT-AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Router

$70 -- ASUS RT-AC1200 Dual-Band Wireless Router *

-----
D-Link :

$200 - D-Link AC3200 Ultra Tri-Band Wi-Fi Router

$120 - D-Link DIR-879 AC1900 EXO Wi-Fi Router

$60 -- D-Link AC1200 DIR-842 Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi Router

-----
Netgear :

$220 - Netgear R7500 Nighthawk X4 AC2350 Dual Band WiFi Router

$110 - Netgear AC1750 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R6400)

$75 -- Netgear Wireless Router - AC 1200 Dual Band Gigabit (R6200)

-----
^*Disclaimer: ^I ^currently ^own ^and ^use ^these ^devices, ^also... ^the ^prices ^are ^subject ^to ^change.

router Asus AC3200

Dongle: Kootek AC 600Mbps USB Wifi Adapter Wireless 802.11ac Wifi Dongle Dual Band 2.4 GHz / 5GHz AC Adapter for PC Windows 10
System
REALTEK Wifi app


What else would help?

​

I have the exact same problem... my newly upgraded 300mbs Cox service provides 338mbs (!) when directly connected to a PC, and 209mbs when going through my RT-AC66U router. I use a fairly long ethernet cable between the modem and the router so I've ordered a new cat6 one for that run, though it's probably not the solution. I'm wondering if I need something more like this?

Is your PC wireless also? If not, then you may want to upgrade your router to something like this to increase the wireless speed for android:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S9SGNNS/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S9SGNNS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I've got 2 XB1s, PS4, 4 PCs, Wii U, 3 tablets, 2 iphones, and no issues. Open NAT on both XB1s with UPnP.

Edit - Forgot the modem. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MA5U1FW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

I need to build a whole new network because the cable modem is only the Spectrum bare bones with nothing but a wired connection. If I'm seeing this correctly, I would need the EdgerouterX plus the Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range plus a [switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-Switch-60W-US-8-60W/dp/B01MU3WUX1/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3/134-2367728-7655000?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU3WUX1&pd_rd_r=441ae487-d265-4bf9-bee1-32808368ecd6&pd_rd_w=m61Fs&pd_rd_wg=RryX3&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V&psc=1&refRID=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V)for the wired LAN computer to connect to in the back of the house.

I could then plug the Unifi AP into either the EdgerouterX or the switch where my main computer is plugged in with Cat5. If necessary, I could get another Unifi AP and have them plugged in at both ends of the house in a wireless mesh.

Since I've had their service, my internet has crapped out at least 5 times and I just got their service maybe two months ago, so I went out and bought a new modem (from a list of supported modems on their site):

ARRIS SURFboard SB6190

This has excellent reviews; it's a shame though that they don't support DOCSIS 3.1 yet (heard they are working on it).

The router of choice I went with is: Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP

and then I purchased this Wireless Access Point from Ubiquiti. High reviews, large coverage, and easy to setup/maintain.

All in all, for under $300 I feel good about my purchases and getting rid of this leased modem. I've always used ISP provided equipment, whether it be AT&T or Time Warner/Spectrum and it's been quite the headaches over the years and finally wanted to do something about it.

Not sure if any of this will help you out, but hopefully it does!

There is zero reason to buy either of those. As consumer routers get more expensive they look better, not get faster.

For less than the cost of those two routers you can get this setup which will easily match them.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-LITE/dp/B017MD6CHM

If you need more coverage then get a second access point.

I am running an ER-X-SFP (Ubiquiti) with HWNAT Offload enabled, and an UAP-AC-PRO for wireless.

You can get both of these for <$100 each if you find them "Used" on Amazon. They work well in this setup. HMU if you need config examples.

EDIT:

[UAP-AC-PRO Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00HXT8T5O/ref=olp_f_new?ie=UTF8&f_new=true)

[ER-X-SFP Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B012X45WH6/ref=olp_f_new?ie=UTF8&f_new=true)

Came here to suggest something similar. Assuming OP has decent enough bandwidth at home, you could set up a little RaspberryPi as a Wireguard (or OpenVPN/PiVPN Server) and work around network restrictions that way.

As others have mentioned, you'll need a way to route traffic within your dorm room. This could be anything from your PC with multiple NICs and network sharing enabled, to an old/unused PC running OPNsense/pfSense, or an unused router flashed with DDWRT.

I don't know what your budget is for this project, but I'm a really big fan of these little Edgerouters, which could do everything you want, and more. They have a built in switch chip, so the ER-X can be used in multiple configurations. Some combination of the aforementioned should work wonders. If nothing else, it'll give you tons of stuff to research and learn, and the ER-X would still be valuable after college, either as a router upgrade, or even a (managed) switch.

Good luck this semester, study hard. Holler if you get stuck with anything. You got this. This sounds like the Great Firewall you find yourself behind.

Check the specs on your router. If it has only 100 Mbps ethernet ports it'll probably help to upgrade, even if your internet service is 100 Mbps down. You could get something inexpensive like a Ubiquiti ER-X that will be good for up to 500 Mbps.

The article in the networks sub reddit described it perfectly - basically its better to offload the functions into separate devices

https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499034651&sr=1-1&keywords=ubiquiti+wireless

https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-ER-X-UBIQUITI-Router-Black/dp/B0144R449W

Here's the options I'd suggest:

Replace airport with something like the TP-Link C7/C9.

• Depending on how far your backyard is from the router and things in between, may still have issues with WiFi
  
• Could always put the C7/C9 in a more central location in your house or closer to where you need good signal and just run a cable from your modem to the C7/C9.
  
• Easiest to configure, mostly plug-and-play with some config needed to setup password, SSID, IP scheme if you want to change it, etc.
  
  Buy a wireless access point and keep the airport for now.
  
  
• Try the access point where your airport is now and see if you get good signal in the backyard. If not, run a cable from the airport (or switch) to a more central location in your house, or closer to where you need good signal and setup the access point there.
  
• These are unbeatable wireless access points for the money.
  
• The AC lite will require some configuration.
  
  Replace the airport with something like an edge router X and also get the Ubiquiti AC Lite access point.
  
  
• Setup the edge router X where the airport is now and try the access point where the edge router is. If you don't get good enough signal where you need it, run a cable from the edge router to a more central location in your house or closer to where you need good signal and setup the AC lite there.
  
• Most configuration needed as both the edge router and AC lite require some configuration.

For comcast gigabit you'll be needing a DOCSIS 3.1 capable modem such as the Arris SB8200.

For a router, for all in ones you can look at the typical Netgear R7000 or the Asus AC1900 if you want to keep it simple.

If you want something super reliable then...

Edgerouter X

or

Edgerouter Lite

or

Unifi Security Gateway

• 
  
  Ubiquiti AC Lite
  
  or
  
  Ubiquiti AC Pro
  
  (also wire in as many things as possible with quality Cat5e/6/6a cables)

I second /u/washu_k and Amazon.com would be the place to look. https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506524312&sr=8-2&keywords=edgerouter+x

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506527343&sr=1-2&keywords=uap-ac-lite

> I was hoping just to get a router for no more than $125.

That's a REALLY tight budget to adequately cover a 2500sq ft house. You are likely to be disappointed with a single device.

If you can stretch that a bit, this would be a FAR more ideal setup:

2x of https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

1x of https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W/

That's just a bit over $200. You aren't going to have beamforming but I'm not convinced you need it anyway. Those APs do support MIMO.

You will also get far, FAR better QOS on that router. QOS on most consumer grade stuff is absolute garbage.

If you truly cannot go over that budget, go with the Archer C9. It's a solid choice and will serve you well. Avoid Netgear and Linksys.

EDIT: Fixed the links

Ouch! What you can do is go with the EdgeRouter X. Since you only have 30mbps internet you probably won't see huge gains between the X and Lite unless you transfer a lot of data on your internal network.

EdgeRouter X

And if you want to save even more you can go down to the UniFi AC AP Lite, it should still cover your place. But the Pro really is the better Access Point.

Another option is to go with an Amplifi Mesh system. I'm not sure how much cheaper that is but it's Uniquiti's new system targeted more to consumer routers/simplified setup Amplifi. But as I'm a nerd I like to have more control. That's up to you.

Edit: Just realized Amplifi is only US right now. SMH.

[Router] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0144R449W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493926668&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41snmRQ4yRL&ref=plSrch)

[Access Point] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HXT8S9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493926756&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+access+point&dpPl=1&dpID=31ZYZ9bvX-L&ref=plSrch)

No more lag on wireless connection

I went with a separate router and access point as they're in different locations, but at the prices you're considering it'd be an option even if both devices are right next to each other.

• Ubiquiti ER-X router for $55. 4 port gigabit, and they have models with more ports if needed.
  
  
• Ubiquiti AC-PRO access point for $130. Awesome coverage, robust config, cloud management, and runs on POE (above router won't power it alone, though).

Get this: http://amzn.com/B0144R449W

Burn the other one. Right now.

this is a nighthawk

edit: and this is some sort of alien mothership from the same search

It is a high end router, it is not the sacrificial altar of wireless orgasms but really good for the price. I actually just bit the bullet and bought mine from T-Mo and flashed Merlin on it.

I've been really impressed with this ASUS. Keep in mind that you get what you pay for.

Seems you went up against some WiFi warriors.

WiFi apologists needed to understand that with even the best router, unpredictable microwave interference can occur.

Honestly I feel most WiFi people are using the default router/modem combo supplied by their ISP. They are definitely not using something like this :

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Tri-Band-RT-AC5300-802-11ac-Optimization/dp/B0167HG1V6

And like all home routers it has just 4 ethernet ports. Switches aren't expensive but having an extra one sitting next to my router adds clutter.

It would have cost them about $5 to have 6 or 8 ethernet ports. I can understand why most $50 routers only have 4 ethernet ports but at nearly $300 they can afford to throw in a couple of extra ports. Even the $500 RT-AC5300 comes with just 4.

Sure MU-MIMO improves speed but also so does cabling the devices in your home that can be. Having upwards of 15 devices in a home that use the Internet is now basically the norm.

Your modem wasn't an issue, it was the router attached to the modem. I think you wasted your money there.

If you want a hecking good router, the [Asus AC5300 is a fan favorite] (https://www.amazon.com/Tri-band-AiProtection-Accelerator-Compatible-RT-AC5300/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B0167HG1V6). Ensure you sacrifice an xbox 360 to it now and then to keep it happy.

[The TP-Link Archer AC1900] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1900-Smart-Router/dp/B00PDLRHFW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522431079&sr=1-3&keywords=dual+band+router+tp-link) also has great wireless speeds and control. I recommend this one, TPLink has good products.

Take a look at the TP Link Archer c7

or

TP Link Archer AC1200

The C7 is better but the ac1200 is within your $50 budget, and probably adequate for light use.

In 90% of circumstances for home use, I would recommend flashing the AP to the latest DD-WRT version and using it in "AP Mode" (secured with WPA2 AES or 802.1x) behind your pfSense firewall to avoid things like double-NAT and other unnecessarily doubled-up services that pfSense already takes care of.

Hey, I need a new router.

What does everyone think about this one here:

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-2-0Ports-External/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493212609&sr=1-1&th=1

?

Get your systems wired, wi-fi, no matter how good, will add some latency (though it might not be necessarily noticeable, depends how good the ISP is) Ethernet cable is cheap. If you're wired there will be minimal difference between a cheap router and an expensive one for a 2-3 machine network. It's all going to depend on what your ISP gives you.

I've used one of these for years, no reason to complain. It has good customization, security and QoS (I had no problem downloading a game with 10MB/s and watching 1080p Youtube at the same time on a 100Mb/s connection)
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B001FWYGJS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494218543&sr=8-10&keywords=tp+link

Of course, it won't do if you have an above 100Mb/s connection since it won't handle more, but as far as I know that's not likely with comcast.

Otherwise, you can get one of these https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-300Mbps-TL-WR841N/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1494218543&sr=8-10&keywords=tp%2Blink&th=1

It can handle gigabyte connections, has dual band wireless.. you're unlikely to have the internet or devices to actually use it to it's full potential, so it offers some decent futureproofing as well

The ethernet status is just the connection speed between your computer and modem/router. That does mean your plugged in computer would be able to make use of a Gigabit internet connection, but unless you invest in some serious wireless hardware you won't be able to get close to that over wifi.

Internet connections and wireless speeds are measured in Mbps (Megabits per second). There are 8 bits to every byte. So a 1Gbps connection could download 125MBs per second. Your 15Mbps connection can download 1.8MBs per second. The networking protocols in use also have about a 15% overhead, so in reality it would be about 15% slower than that.

Wireless speeds are more complicated. Your modem/router has a theoretical maximum speed of 300Mbps, but since wireless devices have to share radio time over the same airwaves that number quickly shrinks in the real world. For starters that 1000Mbps ethernet connection you have is a duplex connection, meaning it can simultaneously download and upload at that speed, but with wireless you can't both talk and listen at the same time so it's in half-duplex mode. That means it's sharing that 300Mbps for uploading and downloading, effectively cutting that speed in half. On top of that, every wireless device connected has to share that max speed. If we do a little math...

300Mbps is 37.5MBs per second.
Remove 15% for networking overhead.
Cut it in half because it has to both upload and download.
Let's say you have 4 devices connected so split it in 4.
Next thing you know each device is only getting 4MBs per second and that's assuming you have maximum signal strength and you're paying for a 300+Mbps internet connection.

It's a little more complicated than that and hopefully your wireless router is doing some optimization in there but, long story short, wireless speeds suck. Try to plug in as much stuff as you can. Consider upgrading your router too. Even a cheap TP-Link AC1200 would be a noticeable upgrade from your current one. Realize that is just a wireless router and not a modem/router combo so you would still need a modem. I'm assuming the device you posted earlier is provided by Comcast and plays both rolls. Some ISPs charge extra for the wireless function so you might be able to save a few dollars on your bill by providing your own router.

Now that we've got the internal networking inside of your house (LAN) out of the way, let's talk about your internet connection (WAN). 10Mbps is pretty much the minimum required speed necessary to comfortably watch streaming HD video. Netflix recommends at least 5Mbps per stream but that is really pushing it for 1080p video and god forbid you want to do anything else online at the same time. 25Mbps should be more than adequate for a single person. After looking at the prices you posted and realizing it's only $13 more to bump from 25Mbps to 200Mbps, I personally go with the 200Mbps plan. Though to make full use of that speed over wireless you would need to upgrade your wireless router.

Here you go, nice and cheap.

$25 Refurb Archer C50

It could just be your streaming method, but I have to say that I upgraded my desktop's wireless card and my router and I am never going back to anything besides the "best". I have zero issues gaming at all now.

I have that exact same ASUS PCE88 and this router and I'm getting great speeds from the comination of them. I feel that range plays a huge factor in whether your wireless experience will be good or not, and the ASUS card and router combo completely eliminate any issues related to that.

From my phone, I can pick up my 5GHz band pretty far outdoors from my router. My desktop with the ASUS PCE88 ends up picking up networks that my laptop(with an Intel 7260) can't even see.

I used to have so many wireless issues, but now I have absolutely none. I'd say upgrade if you have the money to spend and want the "fastest".

On another note, let me load up a live boot of Antergos on my desktop and I'll let you know if the ASUS card is recognized at all.

EDIT: No wireless was recognized. But Google is saying there are drivers out there. https://blog.cooperteam.net/post/2017-11-10-asus-ac88-wifi-on-linux/

The Netgear Nighthawk X4S is on sale for $131. Has great custom firmware support.

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA/

Okay, well.. The best way to improve the WiFi is to simply place an access point closer to the bedrooms.

So how difficult is it to put a wire towards the bedrooms?
With that said, most access points don't have much control in terms of parental responsibility. It's possible, but not that easy and often required an extra purchase.

40ft isn't that far for most access points to cover. However, it depends how many walls it needs to go through. Do you have multiple floors?
For my house the modem is in a location that pretty much means it goes through 4 rooms or 7 walls and technically 3 floors. Here it simply can't reach WiFi connection for the most far away rooms. So I've placed 2 Access Points to improve the WiFi. No WiFi issues since.

Just to explain what everything is.

• Modem: in very simple terms this converts the cable (DSL, coax or fiber) from the neighbourhood that comes into your house to 'internet'.
  
• Router: This is the traffic director, when connecting more devices at once. When you want to access a website it is "routed" to load that website.
  
• Switch: most switches are to simply allow you to connect more devices at the same time.
  
• Access Point: this is for wireless connection.
  
  The device you got from your ISP pretty much is an all-in-one unit. It got all the above in it and pretty much does a relatively poor job for all those things.
  
  In my home, I've replaced that unit for a dedicated router (edgerouter) that connects to 1 gigabit switch (cheap) in the office for our printer, NAS & other PCs. Then I have 2 access points for better WiFi.
  
  So I have full control over everything because its connected to the edgerouter. The access points have some control as well.
  
  For your use case though, I understand that you want something simple.
  The only reason why I explain this to you is to provide you with the options.
  
  Anyway, you probably will be okay with this ASUS AC3200 Tri-Band Gigabit WiFi Router or NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S Smart WiFi Router. You have to bridge your current router to this, yes.
  I've looked up the parental control and they both allow timers.
  I'm not very familiar with blocking certain websites, however it should be possible as well.
  Priority to devices gets pretty complicated fast and is something I've never worked with.
  
  If you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Ah gotcha. What would you recommend to replace the EA4500?

I'm eyeing the AC2600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/

If you go here and scroll towards the bottom, you'll see Netgear's lineup and feature list of their high-end routers. According to it, the difference between the X4 and the X4S is that the X4S has faster theoretical throughput, slightly farther range, and a faster processor.

This might be the greatest bot I've ever seen. Who owns it and how can I use it?

Petty attempt

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-MU-MIMO-R7800-100NAS/dp/B0192911RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458177640&sr=8-1&keywords=x4+nighthawk

I mean, 5G router by netgear, otherwise your better off drilling holes/getting long cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA

Keep in mind, I purchased the modem two years ago. It has never failed me once, but I'm sure they have improved on it since then:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHDZSI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I bought the router from Best Buy:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-R7800-100NAS-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497650111&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+r7800

Can you provide the link for the AC2600 Nighthawk being sold new for $89? On Amazon its $229.99. I see the AC1750 for $84.38 though.

EDIT:

Maybe you are referencing the price on Ebay. According to the price policing rules:

>d. Do not use corporate sales or pricing errors as a reference for an item's worth. Microcenter and eBay auction links are not acceptable reference points.

Not sure if that ebay price is considered legit OP or if the rule means if someone is arguing with a price a seller is using.

I'm not sure what your budget for this equipment is as DOCSIS 3.1 equipment seems a bit pricey at the moment.

But I've used the older Docsis 3.0 version of this modem since 2014 with COX. I've had to reboot it all of maybe 4 times over the years. Mine was Motorola Branded but it looks like the exact same modem with a new label and updated hardware.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/

I recently installed one of the higher Netgear nighthawk routers in a small business that wanted to expand their wi-fi in the building. I can't find the exact model I installed but I'm fairly certain it was this router. This thing was nuts, the 2.4 GHz band punched through 3 floors and went way out to their parking lot. 5GHz band didn't go quite as far (as expected) but was crazy fast when I was in a reasonable distance to it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA

Self installation of this equipment is super easy.

1. Unplug the Coax from your existing modem.
   
2. Plug in the Coax to your new modem and connect a laptop or desktop pc to the ethernet port with a short cable.
   
3. Call Cox support and tell them you want to activate your own modem. Read them the MAC address and any other information off of the new modem, it is located on a sticker on the modem itself as well as may be on some paperwork that comes in the box.
   
4. They'll activate it and then ask you to confirm internet works on your attached computer.
   
5. Once that is all set you can hang up with them, unplug your laptop and plug that ethernet cable into the yellow port on the router.
   
6. Then it looks like Netgear has some handy app to set these things up, I usually do it myself in the web config but the app will work fine even if you've never set up a router before.
   
7. Once you are done, confirm your new wifi works and test the range. Remember that 2.4 reaches farther but is slower. 5 is faster but does not reach as far.
   
8. If everything works as expected for a few days or so, find the closest COX store and return your equipment in person, making sure to get a receipt claiming you returned your equipment so you have proof to contest if they keep charging you a rental fee.

Netgear.

inb4 r/HailCorporate

Not sure what you paid but i got the AC1900 a little less than a month ago and the 2600 is now on sale for slightly cheaper than what i paid. I just set up the return and ordered the 2600.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192911RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know about the Guest network but i can tell you the vpn service seems broken. Might be firmware related from what i've read.

If you've already reset it, and it's still not working, I'd replace it with something newer.

If you like ASUS, this is a good AC router, and has Merlin Firmware support. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U-B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U-B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483758930&sr=1-1&keywords=RT-AC66U+B1

This is a great mid-level one they offer. You get 5Ghz 3x3 plus it also has great features like TrendMicro Antivrius, Good QOS system, and open source firmware support should you ever decide try those out.

I will say the free modem is totally okay to use. For the router on a budget, I would recommend this one, but I have an ASUS bias and you could find a cheaper Netgear.

Streaming really only needs 10Mbps for HD content. 4K will require more, but if you’re on a budget, you shouldn’t spring for a 4K Netflix anyway (assuming that’s the service you’re using and they charge more for 4K/multi-screen). I have to imagine the free speeds are in line with Spectrum’s Internet Assist Plan at 30Mbps, but I would ask them to clarify and see if it’s worth it. For $50 per month, you could have 100Mbps.

Also, just a random tip, you should only ever expect to get half of what you pay for because of how cable internet works with neighborhood nodes. Maybe you’ll get the full 30Mbps (or 100Mbps if you go that route) when literally no one else in your neighborhood is online, but don’t count on it.

Depends on your budget and what your walls are made out of. And /r/HomeNetworking

For a simple answer: the Asus RT-AC66U is a great unit supporting 802.11ac, especially when flashed with Merlin. And it's only $100.

You'll need to get a separate modem unit, /r/HomeNetworking has a list somewhere.

Try to hardwire everything stationary, keep wireless for devices that move.

The Google Wi-Fi might be a good choice if you're up for buying multiple to cover a larger area home since they're designed to do mesh networking. But mesh networking won't offer the highest speeds for multiple home devices capable of 802.11ac

I might suggest the Asus RT-AC66U_B1.

Routers are hard to just... suggest as I'm not super knowledgeable on them, generally ASUS, Netgear, and TP-Link are all good for most people, specially if you just need some reliable internet... Your old router is only 2.4 Ghz, and nowadays most router have 2.4 ghz and 5.0 ghz, 5.0 is generally better in every way except not being able to go through walls as much as 2.4 at longer ranges, though older devices might not be able to work on 5.0 ghz. Is your current router provided by your internet company or did you buy it? Some ISP companys don't let you buy your own Modem/router, so look into that before buying.

https://www.amazon.com/RT-AC56U-802-11ac-Dual-Band-wireless-AC1200-AiProtection/dp/B00DES2FQW

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U_B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

both of those I think would be fine based on reviews/personal experience, though do your own research and maybe google around a bit on good routers in 2016 for updated lists.

Actually sorry this is the AC Model

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B00TQEX8BO

Thanks u/minnesnowta and u/ihatecupcakes. You are right, I didn't specified WiFi requirements. I need 5ghz, support for at least 15 devices and the fastest possible connection (basically a decent quality router, but with a builtin battery). I also saw this one, but it does not mention anything about a battery. Also, I said I didn't needed the SIM card but having the option for a possible future use would be nice, so I am really interested to know if this 4G routers can operate as a normal WiFi hotspot without the SIM card.

I've seen this one in multiple subs. You could probably also share your laptop's connection to the Stadia

I just setup my parent's on an ATT hotspot for their home Internet, replacing Frontier DSL 3Mbps service. I am using the TP-Link Travel router. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR902AC-Wireless-Travel-Router/dp/B01N5RCZQH

There's a few different options with this device as it includes a USB port and Ethernet port. You can both power and tether the USB hotspot to the router through the USB port and share the Internet connection over wifi 2.4 & 5Ghz wirless networks. You'd think they'd allow connection to the LAN port for an external switch or Ethernet device, but they do not. They allow the port for a secondary WAN connection in this mode.

The other mode, in which I operate my parents, is using the hotspot wifi signal to share the hotspot internet (Hotspot sharing mode). So the Travel Router takes the hotspot wifi, and bridges it as the WAN connection. You then use the router as any regular wireless router, setting up the wifi networks (both 2.4 & 5Ghz) and then you can also connect a switch to the LAN port. The Travel Router has it's own DHCP services, so there is a double NAT involved, which really shouldn't affect anything unless you're hosting anything with port forwarding.

What's nice about this router is it is fully features, including Firewall and port forwarding options, DHCP reservation & MAC address blocking, DNS override, and my favorite: WAN port bandwidth throttling per device IP. Comes in handy when streaming video and have a data cap and want to save some gigs.

What you want is a travel router (like this) that can take an existing Wi-Fi signal and create your own private network. These are designed to connect to, say, a hotel Wi-Fi network and create your own network. This is especially handy if the hotel only allows one Wi-Fi device per guest - you connect the router and have as many devices as you want connect.

Problem is, it might not work if the Xfinity network has a captive portal. I bought a travel router that could not get past the captive portal problem, no matter what I tried. This was four years ago, so the tech might have improved since then.

So since the Chromecast Ultra requires the power brick I've made a little change.

New power supply:

Portable AC Laptop Power Bank 40000mAh, External Backup Power Supply Travel Charger Compatible With MacBook Laptop Tablet and Smartphone [110V AC, PD 45W USB-C, 18W USB, Dual 3.1A USB, 15V/2.4A DC] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XHKVQ3V/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_hC12Db30XV9SR

And since the public WiFi I mostly encounter is behind a portal I ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_BL12DbJR52T93

This is a fun experiment :)

The WRT54GL is still sold new. This can only do 802.11g (54Mbps max yay!) and has fast ethernet ports. Don't like that? Well you can have this Amazon's Choice router that offers 300Mbps wifi performance on only fast ethernet ports.

But the maximum speed rating for wireless is deceptive. It depends on a number of factors such as your channel width, signal strength, and interference. In order to get 300Mbps, the router must operate 40MHz channels and have a strong signal free of interference AND have no devices negotiated to a lower speed.

Right now my TV has negotiated to 300Mbps, and it probably should get that as it is the only device on my wifi at the moment, and it's on the 5GHz band, which has much less interference due to weaker signal propagation and more bandwidth. If it was on the 2.4GHz band, I wouldn't be using a 40MHz channel due to interference concerns, and I would still be subject to HEAVY interference on the band, both from co-channel interference as there are only 3 usable 2.4GHz channels, and cross-channel interference from idiots. Even in a much less crowded environment you can still wind up with interference on the 2.4GHz band. And once you add walls into play, yeah you're going to be hurting.

The cheap "300Mbps" routers like the one I linked above don't do the 5GHz band, so realistically they won't get anywhere near that. Under ideal conditions I would expect them to get around 100Mbps over wifi.

Browser-based speed tests show my internet speed at somewhere around 150Mbps, and this is on DOCSIS technology that is available in most places. I actually have much faster available in my area, but between the cable company charging an arm and a leg and the fact that I'd have to get my landlord's permission to get cable pulled for fiber internet, this is what I have. It however is still fast enough that a cheap router will absolutely be a bottleneck for me.

So yeah, the customer's choice of wifi router can absolutely cause problems.

WRT54GL

http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Cisco-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Compatible/dp/B000BTL0OA

Also used in a research project where we bought like ten of these things. They all worked great. They are also the most mature/baseline platform for popular firmware like Tomato.

The new WRT54G have had their memory and flash reduced to cut cost. It was rather convenient (even kind) that Linksys would continue to vend their "L" version with these additional resources to run the more-stable Linux/Busybox firmware at a small premium.

Sadly, I have heard many tales of woe of the post WRT54G v4 VxWorks based devices.

The mobo doesn't have a receiver. If you're talking about the Gigabyte adapter, it's probably better than most external receivers. Go to device manager to disable the device.

The Linksys WRT54G is the cheapest router that "gets the job done". It's slow but stable, durable and reliable. Think "Nokia of routers".

Then you've got 3 potential TP-LINK routers:

Basic N router: TP-LINK TL-WR841N.
Basic dual band N: TP-LINK TL-WDR3500.
Basic dual band AC IPv6: TP-LINK Archer C5.

I have this modem: ARRIS / Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem

and this router: Linksys WRT54GL Wi-Fi Wireless-G Broadband Router with the firmware swapped out for Tomato.

The router shouldn't have anything to do with limiting the connection speed until that connection speed is amazing (i.e. never).

The problem is likely somebody else at your house doing something, say watching a YouTube video or uploading to Facebook. This is utilizing all available bandwidth, leaving none for your game. It's most common on slower ADSL or Cable connections, less so on Fibre or VDSL2.

No matter what anybody tells you, you can't do jack shit about that on your PC. You can prioritize what your PC does on your PC, but that's pointless. Close pr0n DL before you start DotA, but your PC isn't the issue that you'll be wanting to solve.

If you want to influence the rest of your network, your router 100% must do the QoS (Quality of Service) prioritization.

Get yourself something like a cheap TP-Link TL-WR1043ND and put Gargoyle Firmware on it (gargoyle-router.com). You can use the likes of this device with any normal DSL / Cable / Fibre router (Just turn off WiFi on your existing router if it has it).
Then, plug it in and run everything through this Gargoyle router, LAN and WiFi.

There's super easy settings that will allow you to do things like give everybody else lower priority than your PC, give them bandwidth caps (So they can only download X amount per day / month and then they're either slowed or stopped entirely). Most of all though, you can use that to prioritize DotA2 traffic quite easily over everything else that goes on from any other device on your network!

You can get them super cheap from Amazon (I'm not in the USA, I use another local PC Retailer, YMMV):
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410440176&sr=8-1&keywords=TL-WR1043ND

It's super easy to set them up with Gargoyle, takes about 3-4 minutes! You won't be disappointed.

I pick greed

Openwrt + tp-link 1043nd.

This is the best router I've ever had. It's only $40 brand new. It has 3 removable antennae, 4 gigabit ports, usb port for storage, and it's supported by DD-WRT!

The amazon reviews aren't much better, but a lot of people seem to struggle setting up just about any kind of wireless network.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415972574&sr=1-1&keywords=TL-WR1043N

Maybe I scared you off a little bit too much with the security risk. It really depends very much on the computer you are using. If you take an old PC with a freshly installed Windows XP and connect it directly to the internet, chances are pretty high that after about an hour someone else controls that machine and uses it to send SPAM e-mails and do other shady stuff. If you connect a PC with Windows 7/8/10 and all the latest updates, it may never get infected (provided you keep it updated).

Talking about possible replacements that are cheap and effective, I would suggest this TP-Link router or the Archer C7. It mostly comes down to how future-proof your WLAN should be.

I'm using the 1043ND v2 and it can definitely manage 100Mbps. There are certainly also good or better alternatives from better known companies, but you will pay more or less for the name.

The WRT54GL isn't really an option, because
>The WRT54GL is technically a reissue of the version 4 WRT54G
[Wikipedia]

A quick skim seems to show that at least some of said systems provide GPIO pins. I can buy a single one of those for $52 and zero shipping with power supply and case. These tend to have four or more Ethernet ports; this one has four gigabit ports and wireless for the hell of it

I have an older model E3000 dual band router that takes dd-wrt... And it's working great. What I would do is look at different routers, then check the dd-wrt router database. Find one that is good to go, and buy that.






http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YLAUU8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=thelinactsho-20






Is a pretty darn good one.

You don't have to use their modem as a router. You can use the modem functionality (you have to do this) and change the router config to be a network bridge only. Then use the wifi router of your choice to actually route traffic to your devices. The nice thing about this setup is that you can change internet providers at any time and not have to change your network setup at all. Its great, especially if you have a complex setup.

I followed these instructions and my main router is an Asus RT-N16 with the DD-WRT custom firmware on it.

Cheap and not shitty? Good luck.
Having said that,
I'm an advocate of Asus, try this one. I have it, using it as just an AP rather than a router though

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-In-1-Wireless-Router-RT-N12/dp/B00DWFPDNO

This one is probably a better choice, and the 3x3 antennas will work better around your corner possibly.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

We have the ASUS RT_AC66U where I work and put dd-wrt firmware on it. I have an ASUS RT-N16 router at home and it runs great. I haven't even bothered to flash the firmware to anything else. I see them on an average of about $75 on amazon if you get the white on that is.

I have this Asus Router with DD-WRT. Never had a problem with it.

If you are willing to spend the time the best router in my opinion is the ASUS RT-N16 with Open source DDWRT loaded. Amazon Page for Router

You will have to load the DDWRT software on the router yourself. However, it is very straight forward and all you need is the DDWRT help page

DD-WRT and Tomato are 3rd party firmwares that you can flash onto your router. They are generally much more feature rich than the standard firmware that comes on the consumer grade home routers.

In general, DD-WRT / Tomato will not change any of the physical characteristics of the device. They will not make your device significantly faster or significantly improve your wireless coverage. But, I have noticed that some 3rd party firmwares can improve the device performance, but this is due to some 3rd party firmwares being based around a newer kernel. Also, the 3rd party firmwares generally allow you to change the TX power to the onboard RF amplifier.

Remember that Linux kernel is monolithic. What this means, essentially, is that all of the device drivers live in the kernel. I have seen that the device drivers for certain chipsets (eg: Atheros) get updated in newer kernels and this can lead to better performance. The benefits here are only slight, however. The real solution, if you want better performance, is to buy better hardware (a router with more RAM or a better processor).

If you want my personal recommendation - I highly recommend the Asus RT-N16. It's a very good router at a very good price. Flash with something like Tomato by Shibby and forget about buying another router for many years. Shibby's mod enables things like GUI configuration for a lot of advanced features (USB, VLANs, VPN, etc). Refer to this page for a router compatibility list.

I have an Asus RT-N16 that works reasonably well. The range is a little disappointing, though. The stock firmware sucks! If you go with this one, you'll definitely want to install Tomato or DD-WRT.

I got tired of my media skipping constantly, so I sprung for an Airport Extreme (Apple's router). It works really well... no problems since. My RT-N16 now serves as a wireless client to my house's wifi (I run my own network 'cause I don't want to share my shit with shitty roommates).

I actually do all the VPN's for the county in VA that I work for. I highly recommend GnatBox if you are going to purchase any hardware. We replaced all of our Cisco ASA's and PIX's with these, we have site-to-site connections with the DMV and State Police and they require a fairly hefty piece of hardware before they will all anything into their systems.

We run GB-2100 class hardware in most of the government buildings but for the offsite we have GB-250e or GB-820 if you have more than 50 users.

Super easy to setup and a breeze for VPNs, either point-to-point or mobile.

Also points for Hamachi and Teamviewer VPN

EDIT: Have to throw this in, for my personal use, I have an Asus RT-N16 that I have the Toastman Tomato VPN firmware loaded on it. With this, you can turn on the PPTP Server and do a quick setup, which really isn't all that hard with a bit o' Google help, and then setup a PPTP dial-up connection on your home PC and "tunnel" into your work network on demand. I can elaborate further if you are interested. This would be your cheapest hardware solution, around $100 US.

You can use any router as far as I know. I've never used a WD router before so I have no clue how good that actually is. The ones I have used on LUS fiber are:

• Asus N600 (RT-N56U)
  
  
• Netgear N600 (WNDR3400) (My current router I use)

This router
can easily handle 25 devices without kicking them off, and it is under $100.

If you want to spend a little more this is a better router, and can handle 30+, but cost just over $100.

I have both routers, and the reason I give you those numbers is because that's how many I have on each. So depending on your internet speeds (mine is 60/4) you should have no problems.

I just did a quick and dirty install of wired internet. I didn't really have a great option for a central location to set up my modem and router. What I ended up doing was keeping my router and modem in a bedroom I use as a home office.

I took each wall outlet for my coaxial cable and replaced them with ethernet/coax combo outlets to keep from needing to add extra outlet covers/boxes in the walls. The exception was at my router. I used a 4-port outlet like this in that room.

From there, I used my attic (and the help of my brother-in-law) to fish the ethernet cables down the walls in each room I wanted to wire (living room, master bedroom, guest bedroom), then each of those to the home office to connect to the 4-port outlet. Once I connected the outlets in each room, I labeled the ports in the office for convenience and plugged cables into the router for each room.

As far as the hardware, I have a Motorola DOCSIS 3.0 cable modem since I'm currently stuck with Comcast. I use a Netgear router with a USB port for connecting a hard drive.

My primary reason for setting all this up was to be able to access the full bandwidth of my internet connection and not need to be concerned with any wireless interference (granted, I probably wouldn't notice where I live). I also like the idea of minimal buffering with my home media server setup to multiple devices. I have a couple of gaming consoles and a PC all wired and I enjoy not dealing with wireless except on tablets, phones, or laptops.

Well - let's see.. I know that you have Verizon with a 75/75 Connection. So it sounds like you have a FiOS Connection and most likely have an ONT (Optical Network Terminal) on the outside/inside of your house. My guess is a 611/612. None the less, it's TYPICALLY better to utilize their Modem with their services. I am not sure Verizon allows a "bring your own Modem" when you have FiOS. I do not have them, however. But from my memory, I believe that is the case. If you CAN use your own - I can definitely recommend a Modem for you!

So otherwise would suggest contacting Verizon or going to a local store - to see if you can get a STANDALONE Modem. Something with 1 LAN Ethernet Port and no internal Router/Switch. As said above - a lot of people with Modem/Router combos seem to run into more issues than not - with a lot of basic configuration changes. Such as Port Forwarding, etc. But - mileage varies depending on the user.

As for a suggested Router? Oh boy.. that depends on how hardcore you want to go. A lot of people give NETGEAR some flak, but they've been killing it lately in their Quality Control and market. I'll give you a few to go by, depending on how intense you want to go.

-----

NETGEAR Nighthawk R7000

• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Support-Compatible/dp/B00F0DD0I6
  
  This is the more.."Lightweight" of the Nighthawk Series. They go up in "quality", for more money of course. The feature set is different as you go up in the line, but doesn't necessarily mean things will be "better". But they are great for Gaming. Not particularly because of the reasons they market, but because of how they handle Traffic internally, and their support for any odd configurations you may need to handle. Feel free to check out the Nighthawk Series a bit.
  
  NETGEAR AC1750
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Router-AC1750-Gigabit-R6300v2/dp/B00EM5UFP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494439575&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+router
  
  It's basically the same concept as the Nighthawk R7000 - actually within the same technical family. The biggest difference for the Nighthawk is more or less it's range and a few other capabilities. But in terms of performance - they typically function the same. Another excellent Choice.
  
  TP-Link Archer C7
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494439549&sr=1-1&keywords=C7+Router
  
  This thing is moderately known - but not often talked about. TP Link has always had some great quality hardware. The software isn't anything too extreme, but the quality and performance is decent enough for me to recommend it.
  
  NETGEAR N600
  
  
• Link: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K
  
  A cheaper alternative, if you don't want anything super crazy - and need something more affordable. It's a pretty decent quality, I used to have this at one point and a few of my friends use these and have never had any issues with any Port Forwarding, or extras that they've needed to take care of. Great signal quality in a 2 story home - and kills it in performance for the price.
  
  -----
  
  Those are a few of my recommendations. Of course there are plenty more - but those ones specifically I have had great experiences with. Either with friends, or my own personal preference. For myself, I have the Nighthawk R7000 and previously had the NETGEAR N600. The only reason I left that one behind - was because I wanted a little more of an extended range when I was outside of my home in the yard. Which the R7000 handled perfectly. But - that's not a scenario many people really deal with. Plus you can always make/buy an extender.
  
  I'm glad to help, when I can! :)
  
  
  

I've had This for three years, without any issues.

It's cheap as hell, and it'll do what you want.

here

Ditch that shit. Buy a DOCSIS 3.0 modem that is compatible with your ISP and get your own router. What ISP are you using? Just because you're on a contract, does not mean you need to use their hardware. You can also just get your own separate router ($30 to $200), call your ISP and tell them "I want my modem to be put into bridge mode" and that will make the modem do only modem things while you can handle all the ports stuff and other configurables on your own.

Modems:
https://www.amazon.com/Arris-SURFboard-Providers-Excluding-Refurbished/dp/B00UPLKF4A/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485917433&sr=1-8&keywords=cable+modem

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-5345-Certified-Spectrum-Providers/dp/B013C4L6OE/ref=sr_1_15?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485917433&sr=1-15&keywords=cable+modem

Routers:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Router-450Mbps-TL-WR940N/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485917553&sr=1-3&keywords=router

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Wireless-Archer-C1200/dp/B01IUDUJE0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485917553&sr=1-6&keywords=router

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485917553&sr=1-13&keywords=router

Well then in that case I'd totally recommend the Netgear N750 I had one a few years ago when I lived with my brother and it was amazing! I wish I could have taken it when I moved but it was his so I got a cheap $35 one and it almost never worked, I just bought another one about 3 weeks ago and it's everything I'd hoped it would be. All my devices work and it's so powerful I can now get wifi on the street corner even with the hugely congested area I live in.

Here's an Amazon link

TP-LINK is usually a good buy. The budget pick there is $60 if you can manage that.

This if you have any phones that are AC band capapble. Or these1,2 should be fine.

I have a TP-Link TL-WDR3600 N600 and it works flawlessly with DD-WRT v3.0-r28015 std (10/23/15).

$59 on Amazon but I got it on sale for $36 from....newegg maybe? I honestly can't remember, it's been a while. I order from a few different sites. Heck, it's $52 at Walmart. Long story short, if you do some shopping around you should be able to get it within your $50 budget, possibly even close to $30.

4 gigabit LAN ports, 300Mbps 2.4ghz wifi + 300Mbps 5ghz wifi (so 600Mbps of wifi to play with if you want to configure your devices to optimize the different bands - ie. dedicate the 5ghz just to media streaming, the 2.4ghz gets shared between everything else).

560Mhz single core Atheros AR9344 v1 rev1.2 processor, 128MB of RAM.

Also had 2 USB ports which I currently have set up with external storage that's shared via samba...

It's a good all around router, look up some reviews. Even with stock firmware it's a good router, and a good deal at around $50 IMO.

EDIT: BTW - if you search for the latest "compatible version" of DDWRT on the router database it shows a MUCH older version (from 2013 I think) but I've had it running the one I mentioned up above for months and it's fine. Not a single hiccup.

This guy should fit in your budget and all of your needs.

If you want to spend the least amount possible, it's pretty easy to find a WRT54g on ebay for $20-$30 (depending on the revision) and that would serve a small apartment well, it just won't be as fast.

1. Probably. Try a hard reset first.
   
   
2. Asus RT-N56U, If you can go a bit above: Asus RT-AC56U
   
   
3. Yep 5Ghz channel is your best bet. On N routers the range isn't as good as the 2.4Ghz channel because higher frequencies don't travel as far but typically on AC routers they boost the power high enough to overcome this.
   
   FYI: When you get the 2nd router, either put the first one in bridge mode so it just acts as a modem or make sure you look up how to put the 2nd one in access point mode and turn off WiFi on the main one. I would suggest the 1st method so your (hopefully) more reliable 2nd router does the heavy lifting.

www.smallnetbuilder.net

My opinion, even though people say you won't exceed it's speed, it to get in to 802.11ac as soon as you can. It's a huge improvement over 11n, not just in speed. Asus makes a decent AC1200 router (http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW). Netgear makes some decent AC1600 units (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-AC1600-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00BR3ZYIW).

Don't get so hung up on the 1200 v 1600 v 1750 v 1900. Most of it is marketing and fud on inflating the practical use of the higher speeds on the 2.4Ghz band. It's most important to focus on the 5Ghz and making sure it's a 3stream 11ac 5Ghz radio (99% of the time you will want 20Mhz 2.4Ghz because the spectrum is so crowded).

IMHO main thing to focus on is 3-stream 11ac 5Ghz radio and the best CPU you can afford. smallnetbuilder is a reliable source. For consumer-grade devices, I've had good luck with Asus and Netgear. Your mileage may vary and there will be TONS of opinions on this. Up to you if you want to pay more for the faster AC units. The AC1450 and AC1200 Netgear units are within your price range.

If you're looking for decent performance, look for a dual band 802.11n router such as the Asus RT-N66U. If you're looking for the best performance, get a dual band 802.11AC router such as the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC87U. Also, make sure you have a Docsis 3.0 Modem if you have cable.

I'm partial to the ASUS routers, but anything with dual-band and 802.11 ac/n/g/a/b should work fine. Cisco/Linksys also makes some good ones, but I hear the ASUS is faster.

The Asus RT-AC87U is pretty close range wise and has better throughput than the R7000. It also has some pretty good commercial software for managing devices. Some firmware bugs at launch but they should get fixed.

ok. I get it. if I'm going to be buying a router I should buy an AC model so I could future proof myself. everyone is suggesting the ac66u, but if I'm going to spend $150 to future proof myself, I'd rather pony up an extra $50+ to get the best available router out right now.

so from my research I noticed that the ASUS AC87U is pretty neat (sorry about the ASUS love but I am basing my research off of mainly one article and the author, at the time of writing, really loved the ASUS routers).

ASUS model: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AC87U-Wireless-AC2400-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00MPI5N7U

is this a good option or is there a better, cheaper option? would the ac66u suffice? would this linksys be a better alternative?

Linksys: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K91DB7Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427049742&sr=8-1&keywords=linksys+wrt1900ac&dpPl=1&dpID=41BI8x1i4HL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

or maybe even a nighthawk?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0DD0I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427052167&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear+nighthawk&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41651m2TjVL&ref=plSrch

anyways I'm just wondering how do those compare to the router you've suggested? which is the best today? is it worth it to go for the ac87u even though it's still $250 or am I better off going for the $200 routers?

I bought this beast and now I can get a weak Wi-Fi signal when I'm in my neighbor's house (our houses are about 60 feet apart). It has solved my range issues. YMMV, my house is not big by American standards, but my signal reaches basement to attic and out to the edge of my smallish yard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPI5N7U/

This is NOT torrrenting and is entirely unrelated.

The posted is, effectively asking, if they have a DSL and two cable connections can they merge them in a way to make a super Internet speed.

I just purchased a router that does this (but with only two connections):

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPI5N7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the questions specifically seems to talk about bits of data -- which is not, currently, possible or practical with commercial software or hardware.

Having ServerA to 1/2 of the data to client A, and 1/4 to client A and 1/8 to client A and 1/8 to client 1 to get optimum results is not something you can do easily and not with the current INTERNET infrastructure.

With a hacked LAN infra? Sure... with work. You'd just load some load balancing.

edit: I should note, the reason is serverA (e.g. google.com) doesn't know the limits of each connection.

UNRELATED: There is something called multi-casting... which basically means one packets goes to a lot of places with a single broadcast. Can save on money. Often used in AV stuff though.

If you do find yourself wanting to watch movies, burn all of them to a NAS, network attached storage, like this one and attach it to your router.

Most smart TVs have that availably to browse for network attached storage so a few clicks of a button and you have a movie on.

If you need to upgrade your router the Asus RT87u has great range especially for multi story houses and more features than most people will know what to do with.

Something like this should work just fine for you. It's probably the same as what you have now, or maybe even an upgrade if you have the 722.

https://www.amazon.com/Residential-Gateway-802-11n-GigaPort-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8?ie=UTF8&me=&redirect=true&ref_=olp_product_details

Yup, just go to http://mynewmodem.comcast.net. Pick one out, order it via the Amazon link, or go down to your favorite retailer of fine electronic devices and pick it up in person. Make sure you purchase a DOCSIS 3.0 modem. The Moto SB6141 and Zoom 5341j are popular choices.

When you sign up for services, you can specify that you own a modem. I recommend signing up for new services online because it has better prices than the phone/counter reps have access to.

Since existing service is being disconnected, you likely won't even need a tech. You'll still have to pay $9.95 for a "self-install kit" which contains some paperwork and coaxial cable and splitters.

Plug in your new modem, you'll get sucked into the activation portal, enter your account number, and away you go.

Caveat for voice service (sorry, this is complicated)

If you are subscribing to voice service, some markets will let you use your own eMTA and some will not. The counter person at your local office is the best person to ask to determine this. If you are allowed to bring your own eMTA, you can use the few Arris voice modems that are sold on Amazon (I think the TM722G and TM822G).

Regardless of whether your market lets you buy your own eMTA, you can purchase the retail version of the gateway and put it in bridge mode.

Not entirely true: ARRIS DOCSIS 3.0 Residential Gateway with 802.11n/ 4 GigaPort Router/ 2-Voice Lines for Comcast (TG862G-CT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_gZ.Eub0KZT4S2

This is the approved list of modems from Comcast.

http://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com

You can then sort by speed and the ability to purchase retail.

The Arris TG862G is one example of a modern that would fit your needs and can be purchased from Amazon

There are travel routers/usb ports like this hootoo. I have versions of these things including a seagate hard drive that was an all in one hotspot and drive.

http://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-10400mAh-External/dp/B00RVIGY1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463293760&sr=1-1&keywords=hootoo

Doesn't work too well on a plane as you connect to it via wireless. But otherwise it is a solution to store data and access it. But everything has its own app as there is no iOS file manager per se.

I did buy the 128GB version of the Sandisk that was mentioned - when it was on sale. This works with its own app. On the computer side it works like any standard USB drive. On the iOS side you can move and copy files using the iOS menus. But as mentioned, as far as I can tell since there is no built in file manager every device needs to come up with its own app to manage data on it if you directly connect it to the iOS device.

If both are connected to wifi and getting on different subnets then I don't think connecting the roku to ethernet will help.

And yes, using your own router and have it create its own subnet will ensure that the devices connected to it will be on the same subnet.

You can buy routers that bridge wifi but give you your own nat'ed subnet. Or you can use that ethernet port to connect the router to.

Here's a travel router that does what you want. You may want to use something more robust if you're using it daily and a lot.

Drat, okay.

Are they tech savvy? Maybe they'd like a travel router.

I think simple stemless wine glasses could be an elegant gift. And monogrammed mugs, especially these gold ones, are always well-received :).

A set of wireless headphones is great for traveling!

Well it wouldn't be a problem for me to just plug in a WiFi dongle to connect to 2 devices at the same time.

What's the most interesting in this question for me is if Chrome OS would get confused and if I can bridge it.
(And I have to use a static IP because I won't have a screen on the go)

I could also use this, it's on sale for the next 28 minutes where I live so i really have to consider that.

To solve the hotel WiFi issue, it might be worth checking out the HooToo Tripmate Titan travel router. I've had great success with mine.

The HooToo Wireless Travel Router, USB Port, High Performance, 10400mAh External Battery Pack Travel Charger - TripMate is what I use.

It lasted through two 5-hour flights and let me and my girlfriend use one GOGO connection. It's a nice unit.

Power it up, then you connect it to (it requires authentication). Then you connect to the WIFI.

Everyone who shares this connection only needs to authenticate with the HooToo.

We have 3 chromecasts and an ASUS router. This is the exact model I have, but its probably overkill for most people. However, I've never noticed an issue with slowdowns or disruptions.

This is a good modem that supports up to Gigabit speed on Comcast.

​

This Asus AC3200 Gigabit wifi router would pair with the modem above really well.

I recommend buying from Amazon for the 30 day return option. I'd try that first before moving to AT&T. Like I said though, I'd move to AT&T fiber in a heartbeat if I could, but this is something you can try for yourself first. Worse case scenario, you can return the Motorola Modem and keep the Asus WiFi router since you can use it with AT&T still.

​

EDIT for grammar and spelling. Whoops!

Quite a clever idea! I'm very familiar with linux, though I never really thought about it.... openWRT is running a small linux kernel, right? Off the top of your head, ever SSH'd into it?

I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

Its a tough call. I might test. Or i might get this instead because the price is becoming to be about the same...https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Portable-Transmission-External/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=pd_day0_hl_0_1/143-8672979-3858944?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07P5QDQ1B&pd_rd_r=de07a64f-5199-11e9-af2a-5120a4877bfd&pd_rd_w=WV78x&pd_rd_wg=eureV&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=A0SAM5NC9NKJYP90VCZS&psc=1&refRID=A0SAM5NC9NKJYP90VCZS

I think you've already gotten the answers you're looking for but wanted to throw in my two cents to further clarify and make myself available if you have further questions. I too upgraded from an XR18 to X32 (and own an M32 as well now)...

The X32 is basically the same stuff as the XR18 - the X32-Edit app will look the same, the 'Q' app for musicians to control their mix basically looks the same. There's just a lot more channels to scroll right for.

The questions I think you were asking about is related to routing - you have 6 Aux (1/4" jacks) and 8 XLR outs (plus a headphone jack if you need one more stereo out). My church X32-Rack uses every single plug to run 8 stereo IEM mixes including the headphone jack.

On the XR18, your XLR plugs are basically pre-defined as your Aux 1-6 and LR output. There are two plugs on the X32 labels Left and Right but that is more of a suggestion. The other connections aren't labeled besides a number. You'll go into routing and decide which plug does what. So you'll need to assign (or keep on default) your left/right output, and probably add one more for a subwoofer output. That will leave you five XLR plugs left - unless you wanted to run your main outputs off of the Aux plugs which you can totally do. The default for the plugs are that they are assigned to your busses so XLR 1-6 will correspond to bux mix 1-6. You can put them in to stereo pairs and run 3 stereo mixes....though I recommend assigning output 6 to a dedicated subwoofer output which will leave bus 5 stuck in mono.

Then you can assign bus 7-12 to the Aux Out and have 3 more stereo mixes.

As mentioned, you can buy AES50 snakes for additional input output as well. I bought two SD8's so that I have the combo jacks like the good ol' days with the XR18 and can place one at each speaker tower so that my speakers and subs connect directly through the snake while my IEM's are connected to the back of the X32-Rack.

​

Also someone mentioned an important aspect - there's no built in wireless on the X32-Rack. You will need to have some form of wireless router on hand. I personally use a travel router so that I have my own isolated wireless network to control the audio and give musicians access, but I'm also simultaneously connected to the venue's WiFi for Internet access - https://smile.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

If you can afford it, get this to connect to your VPN. Some VPNs offer different ways to connect to bypass blocks. In the case of Netflix, you will likely need a static IP that is viewed as a residential one by Netflix to avoid being blocked (that may cost more unfortunately). TORGuard may have all of the things you need. They may also have a preconfigured VPN router to buy on their store that you can use. I'd contact them and ask them what your best option is.

Buy purpose built SD card/HD readers. They have devices for this purpose that have their own power and can connect directly to/power an SSD drive.

​

RAVPower FileHub, Travel Router AC750, Wireless SD Card Reader, Connect Portable SSD Hard Drive to iPhone iPad Tablet Smart Phone Laptop for Photo Backup, Data Transfer, Portable NAS, 6700mAh Battery
by HooToo-US
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_rxxoDbNE1GJ47

I have a travel setup that I take with me, but it consists of a small router that will connect to my VPN at home and will bridge the local WIFI or allow me to plug in and a Synology DS416 slim. This all goes into a case with my DSLR gear.

It covers all the bases, allows me to sync all my cloud accounts, and secure connection to the home network where I can check on the servers there and security cameras, etc.

I've tried going the home build before, but was never able to get something as robust and "slick".
This is the latest router that I'm using - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GBXMBQF/ (not an affiliate link)

I got a 64GB iPad Pro 11 around Memorial day (there was a sale on it for like $650). Having had it now for about 3 months now, I haven't run into storage issues yet. I do have PUBG installed, but not Fortnight or GTA.

I do have a terabyte external SSD and a RAVPower Wifi Hub which allows iPad access to the external 1TB via wifi and app even on iOS12.

I think at the 64GB storage level, iPad Pro becomes more like a chromebook than a laptop replacement - an access device for cloud services like Dropbox or googleDrive. On the other hand, I've had laptops with 1TB of storage - and still you run out of space and have to rely on external storage. I think the question with internal storage is when that happens - more storage you have, later that happens, but it does happen to everyone at some point.

For doing "productive" things like word processing, PDF review/annotation, managing calendars and todos, 64GB seems like plenty of space.

If I had to do it over, I still wouldn't pay for more storage on the iPad, but I would pay for more storage on my iPhone - since that has a secondary function as a photo/video camera and that does eat up a ton of storage fast.

On a typical family trip, we take an ancient GoPro 4 Silver, 4 iPhones, and a Sony NEX6 - the dedicated cameras being old devices that don't take 4K videos or high megapixel photos, and still end up with about 80-100gigs of phots and video footage. If speed/reliability of getting FilmicPro footage out of iPhones into a PC via iTunes is any indication, iPad Pro doesn't seem like a good device to aggregate these photos, regardless of internal storage.

IMO, the cost difference for additional internal storage (and LTE connectivity) on the iPad pro is better spent on the Pencil, a nice keyboard and cloud/external storage. Office365 comes with a terabyte of OneDrive storage if I recall correctly - that seems sufficient. I guess the minimum amount of internal storage depends on how one uses the iPad (and it may very well be 256, not 64GB for you), but I personally don't go on a ton of flights (and sleep mostly when I do, or watch in-flight entertainment), mostly review PDFs and use GoodNotes for some note taking - for these uses, for me, 64GB has been enough.

You want a travel router. Do this all the time in hotels. Here’s one that doubles as a backup battery so one less thing to carry while traveling.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/

You could do this with two NICs, but I'd personally recommend finding a cheap router and placing it behind your existing router. This cheap router would have a WAN IP on the 192.168.1.0 /24 network, and a static LAN IP of 10.0.0.1 /24. On this cheap router, you could then port forward RDP to the Hyper-V host on the 10.0.0.0 /24 network, allowing you to access your lab environment from your main 192.168.1.0 /24 network via RDP.

I use this jenky setup all the time when staging new servers for customer networks -- I configure a spare home router with the same customer subnet, and can set up the server with the exact IP settings of where it will eventually reside. There are more professional ways of handling this, but this is a simple way of being able to have Internet access and perform system updates with the precise network settings.

I personally carry one of these routers in my work laptop bag, as it allows me to run a drop in AP (no routing) on customer networks, or set it up as a small wireless router on a second subnet as described above.

It's true that larger SSDs will get higher benchmark scores but I doubt you'd notice the difference in everyday usage.

As long as you don't run low on space 128GB will be fine.

While 2230 drives are not common now I think there will be more on the market with quasi upgradeable Surfaces' and other devices using them.

In addition, you can get personal wireless storage devices also.

https://www.amazon.com/Passport-Wireless-Portable-external-Drive/dp/B01F5LVTO4/

Wireless hub, use with other storage devices or SD cards
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-FileHub-Wireless-Portable-Transfer/dp/B07P5QDQ1B

Hey, I was wondering the same thing. To be honest, the methodi found isn’t really cheaper than just buying a bunch of micro Sd cards, it only becomes a good deal after a terabyte or so.

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/
And an SSD or hard drive, you have an easy one click solution to transfer footage.

Yeah I saw that. Even last year the first model was expensive. I went with the ravpower route during my last trip: sd to ssd backup (see below). Was hoping to find a way to do direct backup instead of carrying the RAVpower around.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EnqLDb4DP02KZ

I’ve been playing with the idea of backing to my mini iPad but it’s generally not enough space as I only have 64gigs. I can use 600gigs on a week long trip

I always carry one of these connected to a wireguard VPN back to my home as I never trust hotel wifi. You just have be make sure your dns isn't leaking.

So just to be clear your suggestion here is to power this from a usb on another device or wallwart as not to use up a USB on the computer you are using it with? At that point might as well just buy a god damn router and put it in bridge mode.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5RCZQH/ref=psdcmw_300189_t1_B00TQEX8BO

I think the GL.iNet GL-AR750S would be a good fit for this.

It will use the Top Floor WiFi as the upstream internet connection and create your own personal WiFi network to attach your devices to. Just put it in the area of your condo that has the strongest signal from the Top Floor WiFi.

https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-ar750s/

https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

It sounds like you'll be able to do this with a hub with iPadOS. I've been doing that the last few years with my iPad Pro's using a RAVPower FileHub -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B

I reported this bug to Apple through the feedback app a few days ago. Please do the same.

In the meantime, I've been using a device to backup my SD cards to a flash drive, and the iPad can read/write from that flash drive. You can find discount codes to take like.. $15 off.

Not convenient, but if you'd like to have a way to test iOS 13, this may give you an option. It's not worth the cost for solely importing RAW images and videos, but it's also a travel router and helps me backup my SD cards on the go.

Cheers.

External hard drive paired with a Filehub. It has it's own wifi signal so internet is not strictly necessary.

There's a faster model that came out recently -Check this out at Amazon.com - RAVPower FileHub, Travel Router AC750, Wireless SD Card Reader, Connect Portable SSD Hard Drive to iPhone iPad Tablet Smart Phone Laptop for Photo Backup, Data Transfer, Portable NAS, 6700mAh Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_z.9iDbQS5BM6Y

I would use either the RAVPower FileHub or GNARBOX.

RAVPower - $60

https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Wireless-Portable-Transmission-External/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3G6Q8BJ0YG66Y&keywords=gnarbox+2.0&qid=1555436231&s=gateway&sprefix=gearbox%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-2

GNARBOX - $240-$400

https://www.amazon.com/GNARBOX-Portable-Backup-Editing-System/dp/B0758DLRBX/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3G6Q8BJ0YG66Y&keywords=gnarbox%2B2.0&qid=1555436231&s=gateway&sprefix=gearbox%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-1&th=1

If you want to throw some money at the problem you could buy a travel router that you connect to your school’s wifi and then you connect your car to it. They are made to be used in hotel rooms where you have to login via a webpage. I bought this one and used it over the summer when we rented a cottage with a poor wifi signal to the main house:

RAVPower FileHub, Travel Router AC750, Wireless SD Card Reader, Connect Portable SSD Hard Drive to iPhone iPad Tablet Smart Phone Laptop for Photo Backup, Data Transfer, Portable NAS, 6700mAh Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_SzqJDb03NCKEF

I love that word. :)

Something I did not even know existed was OTG storage, like this. Depending on the phone you use, there is likely a storage option available for you, and they've gotten real affordable.

Also, another weird option is an external battery WiFi storage, like this.

No doubt SD cards are more convenient, but these were workarounds I used to get me through the limitations of the phones I went with.

Have a good one!

At home, I'm able to change the SSIDs independently of each other on my Comcast xfinity rental modem. When I'm on the road or out with friends, I cannot rely on them to have something like this. I also can't always depend on internet so, I've got this and I can wirelessly bridge to their wifi or the Hotspot on my phone, but I can essentially drop a wifi network in an open field if the need presents itself and be able to cast to a phone or connect to the internet via lte Hotspot on my phone, it's a pretty cool device and has an SD card slot for storing and steering movies direct to the Quest.

RAVPower FileHub, Travel Router... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There are a couple of ways you can go... I think the best option for me has been using a filehub like the Ravpower Filehub. That allows me to connect either SD cards or an external hard drive. It will also give you more freedom on where to place the files. I can chose the camera roll or an actual file.

Put some thought into how you eventually want to organize your photos. I also have a lot of photos and am moving to an all mobile work flow. The IPad photos app sucks for organization IMO. What I eventually went with is keeping all my archive files in my Amazon photos cloud account. My current workflow is to review the files on the filehub before uploading and do an initial cull. Then I upload only the ones I intend to edit to the IPAD. I edit the files and upload the edited files to my Icloud albums and then delete all the files off my Ipad. My Ipad only has photos I am actively editing on it... I keep my raw files on portable hard drive and my finished work on my Icloud.

Forgot to mention I'm not bringing a laptop so I'm pretty much limited to the filehub or a storage that's SD compatible

in this case I don't understand how would I benefit from a SSD if the transfer rated of the filehub are extremly slow?

RavPower Filehub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5QDQ1B

Our staterooms were rather close and we used one of these to split a single internet package across 4 of us (in two staterooms). This allowed us to use WhatsApp when we were in our staterooms. Funny enough this was also on Enchantment.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P5QDQ1B

Enchantment doesn't support in-app messaging via the Royal app. I didn't do much testing but I would be surprised if much else worked before paying. I did not receive anything while unauthed on their Network (no push notifications, no nothing). One thing worth noting is that device switching is easy (username and pin).

I would buy one of the devices I listed and one internet package per stateroom. Make the SSID and password the same for all of them, and carry them around the ship in your bags. Eventually someone will connect to one of these devices and the chat will stay up to date..

I use a Ravpower filehub. I have an older version but the newest seems to be this. In short, you put an SD card in and plug in a USB HDD or SSD, and then connect to the Ravpower with wifi and choose which files/folders to copy to the USB using the app. I used this extensively on travels without a laptop and it worked brilliantly.

u want this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBXMBQF

This will work as well. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH

I bought this and it works wonderfully to get devices on captive portal websites https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=travel+router&qid=1554473648&s=gateway&sr=8-5 and can be set up with your phone browser if need be. I use it mostly for my Chromecast in hotels.

There's also a cheaper version N version which is good enough as well.

I rent a room and i wanted to make a separate WiFi so my chromecast and IoT stuff won't be accessible on the main house network. I knew i wanted something like VLANs but i found only enterprise grade hardware support that, which can get pretty pricey. I thought of getting a router and installing a custom firmware on a router to get to make VLANs or make myself a custom router with pfsense but because that meant getting way too involved, i don't have time for that.

So, long story long, i found this thing, it's a travel router that takes one WiFi network and makes a new WiFi network with a entirely new subnet a shit. This solved my thing but because the router is pretty small and hardware isn't that great, the speeds on the network are okay. You probably won't be able to stream high bitrate videos on the network, so plex my not work that well. But it's a cheap and a quick solution.

Buying a new router and making a network yourself may be the best solution for you because of the plex server. If you're not streaming 4k or super high bitrate rips, you should be fine with the travel router.

If you want a cheap option that gives you some other flexibility you could look at an inexpensive router with multiple LAN ports that supports AP Mode. That one device would act like a switch and an access point in one. Something like this should do it, as long as you don't mind updating the firmware and have only one device that needs to be wired. Or this one to get 3x gigabit wired ports rather than 2x 10/100 on the cheaper device.

You could get one of these pre loaded with OpenWRT

https://smile.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR300M-Pre-installed-Performance-Programmable/dp/B01I92T754/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=GL.iNET+sim+card&qid=1567713707&s=electronics&sr=1-1-fkmr0

https://smile.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=GL.iNET+sim+card&qid=1567713707&s=electronics&sr=1-1-fkmr1

Then power it via a power bank. As large or as small as you want. They just run off micro usb 5v 1 amp connection.

https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Ultra-Compact-High-Speed-Technology/dp/B0194WDVHI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=power+bank&qid=1567713843&s=electronics&sr=1-3

​

EDIT: You can also tether these to a cell phone if you need to. Quite flexible devices.

Why not go external?
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750-300Mbps-pre-installed-Included/dp/B07712LKJM

If you can make X run off just the second NIC then a router with built in vpn support should do the trick I would think.

If you want to go a little fancier:
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF

You might even have a router already that can do this:
https://openwrt.org/toh/start

If you want to try OpenWrt, you can buy our router. We're using the latest OpenWrt firmware 18.06 to build our stock firmware with a nice UI. Check this one called Slate to see if you want to try: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBXMBQF It has 16MB nor flash and128MB nand flash, with extra TF card storage up to 128GB...Good enough for making you custom firmware!

If they have a hard-line and don't prevent you from connecting to their LAN... pretty much any router device you want.

You could also use a travel WiFi router that works as a bridge. Connect to the building WiFi via the router, than connect your devices to that router. For Example

I’ve got family on the same configuration as you, except 1121 (POE version).

You might want to find a router that you can install openWRT on. Then create a multi-wan load balance and failover link. That way if the LTE goes down for a bit it’ll use the DSL.

I’m also doing trunking (creating 1 big pipe out of two smaller ones), but right now it’s more hassle than it’s worth.


GL.iNet GL-AR750S-Ext Gigabit Travel AC Router (Slate), 300Mbps(2.4G)+433Mbps(5G) Wi-Fi, 128MB RAM, MicroSD Support, OpenWrt/LEDE pre-Installed, Cloudflare DNS, Power Adapter and Cables Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBXMBQF/

This guy might work or this guy:


GL.iNet GL-AR750 Travel AC Router, 300Mbps(2.4G)+433Mbps(5G) Wi-Fi, 128MB RAM, MicroSD Storage Support, OpenWrt/LEDE pre-Installed, Power Adapter and Cables Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07712LKJM/

I have the GL-AR750 and use it when traveling in Vegas. It's OpenWRT based, so it's pretty robust and you can get WAN access thru the WAN port, WiFi, a USB modem, or a tethered phone. You can even have concurrent WiFi clients and hosts on the same band (i.e. connecting to "UnsafeHotelWiFi" as a client for internet access on 2.4Ghz while also running "PlzDon'tHackMe" for your personal network on 2.4Ghz AND 5Ghz)

​

It has OpenVPN and other common protocols built in, IIRC. And I think it even has zerotier if you want to give that a shot. I've used that in the past as it can route over 443, though setup can be qwirky. It also has a tor package, though I have no experience with it.

​

Lately, I use an OpenVPN tunnel from the router to PriTunl on a $5/mo VPS and it works pretty solid. The most annoying part is you have to drop the VPN to log into the hotel networks sometimes, though I have built bypass rules for some hotel chains. Not a huge deal and it's nice to be able to have my computer, phone, and Chromecast on on a private-ish, protected-ish network (nothing's perfect!). I have also setup PiHole as the VPN's DNS to take the load off the router. It also lets me have adblock on all of my devices as I VPN direct to the server when not on the AR750.

​

I would definitely buy it again or it's big brother, the GL.iNet GL-AR750S-Ext, that has gigabit ports and adjustable antennae.

​

Not affiliated in anyway, just happen to use one regularly!

​

Cheers!

​

EDIT: added the tor package link.

I use this quite frequently and I believe it would do about everything other than a USB antenna? GL.iNet GL-AR750S-Ext Gigabit Travel AC Router (Slate), 300Mbps(2.4G)+433Mbps(5G) Wi-Fi, 128MB RAM, MicroSD Support, OpenWrt/LEDE pre-Installed, Cloudflare DNS, Power Adapter and Cables Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_p.ZUDbX4SKCJ2

I am using it in an open source portable router with USB-A port that can read and use 4G USB modems. You can of course tether and use it on PC.

GL.iNet GL-AR750S-Ext Gigabit Travel AC Router (Slate), 300Mbps(2.4G)+433Mbps(5G) Wi-Fi, 128MB RAM, MicroSD Support, OpenWrt/LEDE pre-Installed, Cloudflare DNS, Power Adapter and Cables Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mLLQCbGYH0DHB

I have an iPhone so using it on it is not an option. No idea about Android.

Telecom Egypt has also introduced new home broadband plans with “PS4 quota” recently. I am planning to test it in summer and see how it works hoping I can game the system.

I don’t live in Egypt. I only visit during vacations so it takes time for me to check stuff like this and find options. I am personally against scamming/gaming carriers but I also hate it when they don’t respect net neutrality. If they feel like offering extra quota to a specific website/service then they can afford to offer it to every other service too.

That's an access point, you need a Router and Access point so that it will give out IP addresses via DHCP.


Check out this dude: https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNet-GL-AR750S-Ext-pre-Installed-Cloudflare-Included/dp/B07GBXMBQF/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=glinet&qid=1554322043&s=gateway&sr=8-2


This router runs off USB, even the one on the X32! I use it and it works great, even in crowded conventions, just don't expect crazy range if it's on a trade room floor with 30+ other Wi-Fi networks.

Amazon has been suggesting me this GL.iNET one for a while, assume that's the same thing you're looking at.

I used to just carry an old NetGear WNDR3700 with me, since I had it lying around anyway. Takes up a lot of space in your suitcase though.

>He's right if you travel for business regularly, tons of hotel wifi's captive portals screw w/streaming sticks terribly

I stay in hotels on average 3 nights a week, so I picked up one of these that I carry in my laptop bag along with my firestick and haven't had any issues since

I was thinking about getting this

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00S9SGNNS

And plugging it right into the optical>ethernet thingy. The router would be in a wall in the middle of the appt. Like 5 feet above my PC.

What do you think is the most important feature I should look for in the network devices? Also, I need a 2.4GHz support too, since my mobile devices don't support the n standard. Man, I guess I'll just hang the cable down the wall to my PC after all.

Have a friend who recommended this. The extra ports would be nice though they aren't necessary for me as the only hard wired device at my home is my desktop.

I had Centurylink and had the same problem. I ended up getting This router.

Would this EdgeRouter X SFP work for up to five of the above Ubiquiti UAP-AC-IWs?

By gig blast I assume you mean fiber maybe? Here is the fiber version of the router. Ubiquiti Edgerouter X SFP - Router - Desktop - Black (ER-X-SFP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-C7sDbRNTZ9DC

Access points: Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eE7sDbCT7FFQT

The access points will act purely as a bridge from wireless to wired (aka not a router, just wifi) with your home's size I'd recommend probably 3 or possibly 4 of them depending on how well you want the wifi to reach. This type of wifi will be mesh meaning you'll only have one ssid and your phone will connect to whichever AP is closer automatically. (Youd need to download a controller software to a PC)

Again, this is just the most optimal setup and required a little bit knowledge of the devices and general networking to setup.

If you're strictly looking for good but plug and play this would be the best route: AmpliFi HD WiFi System by Ubiquiti Labs, Seamless Whole Home Wireless Internet Coverage, HD WiFi Router, 2 Mesh Points, 4 Gigabit Ethernet, 1 WAN Port, Ethernet Cable, Replaces Router & WiFi Extenders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L9O08PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oH7sDbKR37G0G

Hope this helps clear things up!

Thanks for the tip. Much appreciated!

So would the Router and Switch combination below work together fine? There are a couple of different EdgeRouters and I just want to make sure I buy the correct equipment. Also, and this may be a stupid question, but do you have to buy the POE Edgerouter or would a regular non-POE EdgeRouter work as well?



Equipment

EdgeSwitch:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464060336&sr=1-7&keywords=ubiquiti+edgerouter+gigabit

If you think a different Edgerouter would be more appropriate, your feedback would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of new to all of this.

EdgeRouter:

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeSwitch-ES-24-250W-24-Ports-Managed/dp/B00LV8Z2V2/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464059733&sr=1-1&keywords=ubiquiti+edgeswitch#Ask

Looking at the Ubiquiti ones cause I already have a WAP, three of these models caught my eye:

• Ubiquiti Networks Edgerouter Lite 3Port Router (ERLITE-3)
  
• Ubiquiti EdgeMax EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3 512MB Memory 3 Ethernet Ports
  
• Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP-US Advanced Gigabit 6-port Router with PoE and SFP
  
  So far I may get one of the Lite's because the Edge X seems to cap out at 500 MBs

Thank you for the response. Are you suggesting that I can get the following:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1467112450&sr=8-5&keywords=Ubiquiti+EdgeRouter

and https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-Enterprise-System-UAP-AC-LITE-US/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467112342&sr=8-1&keywords=Ubiquiti+UniFi+AP+AC+Lite

Please correct me if I'm mistaken, but you're suggesting that the EdgeRouter and the UniFi is an access point that will help "boost" signal? The only "hardwired" devices connected directly to my router is the TiVo box. Might there be any resources on this type of configuration you're describing? Perhaps more complicated than the suggested TP router below, but this might be a more "powerful" solution. Again, thanks for your suggestion.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Multi-WAN-TL-ER5120/dp/B006DEBYTI

https://www.amazon.com/SafeStream-TL-R600VPN-Broadband-throughput-Concurrent/dp/B007B60SCG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MY30G24G13BKXR7T1RCD

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-MSS894582I01-UBIQUITI-NETWORKS/dp/B016YJW8K0/ref=sr_1_11?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-11

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-SFP-Desktop-ER-X-SFP/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-9

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-ERLITE-3-Desktop-Router/dp/B00HXT8EKE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=168HG3CMMSCKZ&keywords=ubiquiti+dual+wan+router&qid=1564425858&s=electronics&sprefix=ubiquiti+dual+wa%2Celectronics%2C216&sr=1-5

This is what I've seen as well, but I have one from work I can test with later tonight to confirm.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-SFP-Desktop-ER-X-SFP/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518102825&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=unifi+edgerouter+x+sfp

Would this be overkill?

https://www.ubnt.com/edgemax/edgerouter-4/

> For the AP-AC lite do you still need a base station or just 5 of these units with one connected to a cat 5?

I'm recommending the UAP-AC-LR (Long Range), not the LITE.

Yes, you would need a router for firewall and DHCP. These are just access points. You can use an existing Linksys router, just disable the WiFi, or buy a new router, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B012X45WH6&pd_rd_r=GN0PSEF1B84FN0SYKN2H&pd_rd_w=CoqNZ&pd_rd_wg=ZwZLz&psc=1&refRID=GN0PSEF1B84FN0SYKN2H

I tried it with an old OpenWRT router and it worked when I set the IP's and everything. If that is true about the ER-X-SFP then I will just buy one of those, if I can do what you're saying with that router, it'd be nice to have. This is the router you're talking about, correct? https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6

I know that the ONT is on the side of my house, and there is a cat 6 cable that I use to connect to the WAN. I am not sure what type of modem is in there or what, it's all locked up except for the battery backups.

I don't wanna have ac channel I've heared it's signal strength ain't that good.

I've found this:--
http://www.amazon.in/Ubiquiti-EdgeRouter-ER-X-SFP-US-Advanced-Gigabit/dp/B012X45WH6

http://www.amazon.in/Ubiquiti-Networks-UniFi-Enterprise-System/dp/B00HXT8R2O/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DHPH6K0CA5M6VRNKYNY

Will this work?

I picked up this thing, smooth as butter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012X45WH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the below one. Only had it for 3 months or so.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012X45WH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

150mb connection from Cox, but I wanted DOCSIS 3.1 and some wiggle room if I ever upgrade. Router I'm looking at below, if you wouldn't mind taking a look and telling me what you think.

Router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012X45WH6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

So power is coming from a EdgeRouter X x ER-X-SFP-US https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012X45WH6?ref=olp_product_details

Can I disable Poe on some ports?

If you aren't on a tight budget you might want to go prosumer and you could look into separating the router into it's components parts rather than an all in one. For example:

• Ubiquiti ER-X
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi NanoHD
  
• Any dumb multiport switch
  
  ​
  
  The NanoHD is totally overkill for an apartment but once it's setup you'd likely never have wifi issues ever again. You can check out the Lite and Pro models as cheaper options but the NanoHD is the newest. Setup isn't as trivial as your run of the mill router but you don't need to be a sysadmin either. I've seen the ER-X go down to $50 at memory express before and it's an excellent router.

Price History

• NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch in Metal Case Essentials Edition   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 929 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• Ubiquiti Networks Router (ER-X)   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.6/5 from 18 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• Unifi NanoHD 4x4 MU-MIMO 802.11ac Wave 2 Access Point   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 51 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  These savings aren't just Black and White.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fcdtvff%2Famazonca_prime_day_megathread_day2%2Fetx98az%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

Thanks for the help. How do I go about doing that? I don't know much about WiFi, in fact I don't even know the difference between a router and a modem :>

Should I get these 2 items?:
https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=pd_bxgy_504_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RM0VZC2T25S9C19Z3DMR
https://www.amazon.ca/Ubiquiti-ER-X-UBIQUITI-Router-Black/dp/B0144R449W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511288325&sr=8-1&keywords=edgerouter+x

I'll try this game.

Modem. Router. AP.

This one looks ok.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router/dp/B0144R449W

Wired routers aren't as prevalent as they used to be, almost everything's wi-fi these days. Could try ebay/craigslist.

While I agree it's crap, I got it for free, so no bilkin lol. I have thought it might be case. Is there a router under 100 bucks that might be suggested? I have 3 pc's, two xbox's, a few phones/tablets and maybe 10 pieces of HA equipment running. We don't have them all running at the same time. I looked at TP-Link Gigabit VPN Router (TL-R600VPN) and Ubiquiti-Networks-ER-X-Router Will either one of these fit the bill and is there something with better performance with plex media server and my server?

Thanks again for any insight.

there is no such product out (Combo device with good working QoS).

​

suggest you to separate two of them:

https://pickmymodem.com/cable-modem-wi-fi-modem-router-combo-one-buy/

​

also don't get carried away by QoS snake oil sold by lot of companies. It is plain traffic throttling.

​

You can get a decent DOCSIS 3.0 modem or DOCSIS 3.1 if you can afford and pair up with good AC2200 router of go down Modem + ER-L + 11ac APs.

​

https://pickmymodem.com/all-about-docsis-3-1-and-docsis-3-1-cable-modems/

​

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-ERLITE-3-Desktop-Router-x/dp/B00HXT8EKE/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-Router-Desktop-Black/dp/B0144R449W/

https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/216787288-EdgeRouter-Quality-of-Service-QoS-

​

For a more... detailed guide of how you want to get things set up, here's what you need to know:

Cable Modem - Must support DOCSIS 3.1. From what I can tell, anything rated for DOCSIS 3.1 must support enough channels for gigabit, but if you want to be doubly sure, backwards compatibility with DOCSIS 3.0 at 32x8 (True of every DOCSIS 3.1 modem I can find on the market) will guarantee you get there. Note that DOCSIS 3.0 at 32x8 does not actually get you gigabit on Cox. It has to be DOCSIS 3.1.

Router - Not including the wireless portion, your router must have gigabit WAN and LAN ports. Just about any router with wireless AC, and even most with wireless N, is likely to have these, but not all routers need have wireless connections.

Switches, MoCA, Powerline Adaptors, etc. - Must all support Gigabit Ethernet, and for alternate methods (e.g. MoCA, Powerline) must also be rated for at least Gigabit speeds... preferably higher, because rated speeds are rarely achieved. Additionally, if you connect any devices that run at less than gigabit ethernet, on most cheap home network switches every device connected will be forced to run at fast ethernet speeds. You can fix this by having such devices connect, say, wirelessly, or only plugging them directly into an appropriate switch. Rather than playing the guessing game with cheap switches and ending up disappointed, it might be worth going for a managed switch, which should almost assuredly support different negotiated rates on different ports. Your router may also support this. Common devices that only run at fast-ethernet speeds and can therefore slow your network way down include Smart TV's, Wired Chromecast / FireTV connections, Steam Links, and other older or cheaper devices.

Wi-Fi - Current Wifi standards mean that your odds of actually getting Gigabit speeds on your individual devices is effectively nil. If your device, like most devices, has only one antenna, your theoretical maximum speed under wireless AC is 433Mbit/s, and in most cases, you'll get less than half of that. Your wireless access point, meanwhile, likely has multiple antenna and can support a lot of devices at high speeds, meaning that it can do gigabit collectively between all your devices. Wi-Fi 6, (a.k.a. Wireless AX), meanwhile, will provide a reasonable possibility of support, but you'll have to replace both your access point and all of your devices. Fun fact: the number after AC (for instance, the AC1900 Router in the OP) lists the theoretical maximum if all built in channels were at max load. Your AC1600+'s should be able to fill up your gigabit link fairly nicely if you have enough devices. The only reason to consider higher numbers is that they typically come with higher quality internals, which can lead to closer-to-theoretical speeds and longer range, but if you're going for more than AC1900, it's really time to consider dedicated access points, rather than wi-fi built into the router.

It costs around 6k

​

https://www.amazon.in/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-Router-Desktop-Black/dp/B0144R449W/ref=pd_sbs_147_3/261-2180694-9768312?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0144R449W&pd_rd_r=b472e1a4-8290-11e9-83ee-f7b9de9ca136&pd_rd_w=2hKSm&pd_rd_wg=9unfP&pf_rd_p=87667aae-831c-4952-ab47-0ae2a4d747da&pf_rd_r=BSVBF642CH04YMJ0XKH9&psc=1&refRID=BSVBF642CH04YMJ0XKH9

​

You can do everything from the GUI if you desire but there is a small bit of learning curve. Luckily there are hundreds of videos on youtube explaining how to set things up.

​

Yes you can do that. I have a bunch of static routes via WAN2. You can also set it up in such a way that certain protocols or ports always go via WAN2.

​

If you get it, make sure to upgrade your firmware first before setting up anything.

​

Just to let you know - I do not have the exact above model. I have the SFP model which costs a bit more. However the CPU and internal memory etc is all the same in both.

You don't need a modem, you only need a router.

If your install is Ethernet (they will automatically install Ethernet with 100/100 or faster) you can use any router you please. If the install is going over the Coax, you have to use their G1100.

If you want something plug and play my usual recommendation is an Asus AC-RT68U. It's a capable device with a proven track record. It will easily do gigabit over hardwire, and push 250-400 (depending on your location/interference,etc) over wifi.

If you are looking for something that requires a small amount of setup, but will have more reliability, get an edgerouter-X for the hardwire connections, and a Unifi Lite access point for the wireless.

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ER-X-Networks-Router/dp/B0144R449W/

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/

You need both as the Edgerouter X is just a router with no WiFi and the AC-LITE is just a wireless AP.

About $130.

Though I got an Edgerouter X as well, which cost another $90 so I completely replaced all my other routers/access points, this part is optional.

Edgerouter X: $54.95

Unifi AP AC Lite: $86.24

Total = $141.19

D-Link Dir-880L: $137.99

It's 4 bucks more for a better router that is easily expandable with another AP if needed.

Great, thanks!

What is the point of the 5 dangling coax cables in the panel?

​

So, I'm thinking of.. having one of the coax cables run into a modem.

And the ethernet from the modem goes to this router:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0144R449W/

And from that router, I have wires that connect to each of those black ethernet plugs (refer to panel in original post) corresponding to the outlets in each of the different rooms I have.

Then, from the living room media center room, I can have a switch from that port:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A121WN6

Which will then connect to all my devices and a wireless access point.

​

Would that work? The router and switch part is a bit confusing to me, so I might be thinking of this totally wrong.

What you want to look at is the physical layer data rate or PHY link speed. That's the maximum speed you could ever get with that router under perfect conditions (and that will NEVER happen), so your going to get some fraction of that speed.

The Comcast gateway is using a chip that is better than anything in any available routers currently, it has an 8.6Gbps link speed: http://www.quantenna.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/QSR10GTV1.0.pdf

It also has 8 streams, so it can be sending/receiving data on 8 'lanes' at once. Your wireless card supports 4 steams/lanes. Ideally 4 of those 8 stream would be talking to your card to get the maximum speed, and the other 4 would be talking to your other devices. Your current router supports 3 streams, which already shows you one of the problems with it. It can only utilize 75% of the capability of your wireless card, and that's only if your wireless card is the only wireless device talking to it.

Let's look at the PHY link speed of your router, it's 1300 (it's called an AC1750, but that's because they add the 2.4 (450) and the 5ghz (1300) together). Your PHY link speed on 5ghz is 1300mbps, or about 1/6th of the Comcast gateway.

So, if you want something close to the Comcast gateway in terms of performance, you want something with 8 streams (though 4 is fine, IF your computer will be the only thing that uses wi-fi) and the highest PHY link rate you can find. Let's look around...

The closest I could find is this: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AC5300-AiProtection-Compatible-Accelerator/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ac5300&qid=1566910918&s=gateway&sr=8-2&th=1

But it's not very close in reality. For starters, they inflate the numbers, it's not really AC5300, it's 2167+2167+1000. So it's PHY link speed is really 2167. It's 4x4 not 8x8.

It seems router manufacturers are not terribly interested in pushing 802.11ac to it's limits. They probably figure if people want gigabit+ wireless speeds they should move to 802.11ad and buy their new 802.11ad routers. Which may be an option for you, but you'd need a new wireless card, and be aware that 802.11ad doesn't have as good of range as 802.11ac.

Since it's a desktop (I assume based on the PCIe adapter) and probably doesn't move anyway, best solution is probably to look at Ethernet/powerline/MoCa for some sort of wired connection.

Yeah I know I didn't leave much but I haven't had a problem for almost a year like that. I'm seeing issues of it not being stable even at 1000kbps. I also replaced the modem and ordered this router. Its funny since thats the image on the front page of this sub.

>If I am paying for 50 mbps up and down internet, how fast should i be downloading a steam game? I just tried it plugged up to my router and it was averaging round 1mbps but shot up to 4/5 at some points.

50 Mbit throughput connection peaks at 6.25 MB/sec, given you are actually getting 50 Mbit through the line. Don't just take your ISP's word for it though, do a speed test to validate the stability of your connection. If you are on wifi, you will experience slower speeds unless you have a really nice dual channel 5 GHz router in an area where the channels aren't over saturated with connections.

>When i downloaded the steam game however, after i downloaded 2/3rds of the game it would keep dropping to 0 bytes and staying there for a while, any idea why that is?

This could be a connection issue, depending on if you are on wired or wifi, and depending on the condition of your ethernet cable. Or it can be an issue where you are downloading faster than your hard drive can write. Go to your downloads section and look at your drive activity, or look in the Windows task manager and look at what the write time is on your hard drive. Eg: is it pegged at 100%?

>I'm thinking about getting a new router because my wifi is very shotty, slow, and weak. what kind would you recommend?

This probably leads me to assume you are on wifi which explains everything you are experiencing. This Asus RT-AC68U will do anything you need it to, and then some.

As always, I recommend you to connect any system you will use for gaming hard wired, no matter how good of a wifi router you have. Even if I had this bad boy, I would still go with a Gigabit ethernet connection over wifi for a gaming machine, or anything that was data extensive. Save wifi for mobile devices that you are actually moving around with.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=psdc_300189_t3_B00S9SGNNS

It really depends on the size of the house and what the walls are made out of. My parents house isn't that big but it's old and the walls are plaster and have chicken wire in between them. I needed 3 APs to cover the house and networks speeds were iffy on the remote APs compared to the main one. This was a 802.11n network though.

I don't know where the bottleneck is on your network exactly so I'd troubleshoot starting with the least expensive options first to determine where it is before you go and spend lots of money.

1. $15 If it's an option, buy a cheap switch and move the NAS to room B as I mentioned above and see if that improves performance.
   
   
2. $35 Buy a Chromecast and see if it performs any better than the Roku Stick.
   
   
3. $80-200 Buy a Roku 3/4 or Nvidia Shield TV. Regular settop box might get better receptions than a streaming stick.
   
   
4. $200 Buy 2x Ubiquit UAC-AC-LR Wireless Access Points. These are considered the best APs on the market and these are the long range versions. I personally love these things
   
   
5. $370 Buy THIS MONSTROSITY and pray the signal reaches all corners of your home.

Wait, your WiFi router is plugged in to power line? Stop it. Get an this router and connect it directly to your modem. If the signal isn't strong enough, use wifi repeaters as necessary. My router provides coverage through an entire 3100 sq ft, 3-story house.

It appears Amazon has it for $262.

Edit: Oh, and the pictures you've provided are not timestamps

Edit 2: Linked the wrong item, this is the correct one.

Yes, the router has to be MU-MIMO as well. I just recently bought an ASUS AC-5300 and I wanted to try to get the most out of it :)

Like this one. I use that one and get 15 ping to swedish servers (live in Norway). There is also a big chimney in the way too.
The router probably helps alot too

Yes you need either an access point or a wireless repeater. Access point will be the most reliable option. Or get a beast router like ASUS RT-AC5300 Wireless AC5300 Tri-Band Gigabit Router, AiProtection with Trend Micro for Complete Network Security https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167HG1V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PnhlybS1YKYKY and it will light up your entire house.

My Gut is telling my the WiFi in the basement will cause issues for the 3rd floor. But;

I personally run an ASUS AC5300 and it has Amazing Range. As /u/Ghan_04 said, DD-WRT is awesome. You can flash most routers (there is a DB you can check to verify compatibility first).

With your budget, you can pick up a used AC5300.

Amazon Linky

​

When was this house built? I learned (the hard way) that modern homes have what are called "Fire Breaks" built into the walls. It's literally a 2x4 piece of wood that runs horizontal between the vertical beams.

This means you have to find, drill through them, run your wire(s), and then back fill the hole to ensure any wall-fire can't easily spread through your home.

Also, check out Monoprice.com. You can get some Cheap Cat6A STP (Shielded Twisted Pair) "riser cable" (Which you'd want to use if running through walls. Example Link for: Cat6A STP

​

Finally, from doing this myself not too long ago, you can find basically all of the keystones, wall plates, etc. on Monoprice for a Fraction of the price that you'd pay on Amazon and like 1/10th the price of HomeDepot.

Hmm. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Ethernet-Router/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483574487&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+ac because it had good reviews (and was inexpensive). I mean- I'm not doubting your bad luck, and I wont rule it out, but I do think it's unlikely, considering the quality of the reviews.

The only way you'd be wrong is if you have a modem in an environment that causes frequent failures, and of course even then you should probably move it. Renting ONLY makes sense, in my opinion, if you have them replace it more than once a year. Otherwise do some research on supported models and buy one that works for you. I would also recommend avoiding any "router/modem combos" as they're generally garbage.

Personally I have this modem: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-DOCSIS-Certified-XFINITY-TC-7610/dp/B010Q29YF8/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1509736005&sr=1-7&keywords=cable+modem

And this router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509736039&sr=1-4&keywords=tp+link+router

Purchased in a bundle together for $80 (it appears frequently if you watch for it) and they're great for the money. Do a little research, though, because different modems support different services so they somewhat depend on your internet service and routers are even more personal to your living environment and needs.

This one is good if you're trying to stay around $50, it's $59.99, and with your internet speeds it would allow you to achieve a what your paying for. That being said I'd always recommend upgrading your speed for a true difference across the board, but I don't know what your looking at over budget wise.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Dual-Band-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=sr_1_12_m?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464004570&sr=1-12&keywords=router&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A8514071011

A modem is device which connects to your ISP and decodes/encodes the data being transferred. A router handles the data and serves it to your home via WiFi or wired ethernet.

A lot of ISPs sell 2-in-1 devices which contain both the modem and router in the same device. These work good for small basic networks but are very limited if you have higher bandwidth or more devices in your home.

I've been using an ARRIS SURFBoard SB6121 modem for about a year with Time Warner with no problems.

I also have my own wireless router which you will need to get if you buy the above modem. The router I have is a Linksys WRT1900ACS which is probably overkill for what you would need. I would suggest something along the lines of a TP-LINK AC1200.

Thanks guys, I decided to go with AC1200 router listed in https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Dual-Band-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top .

Thanks! Also, I made an error. I'm looking for a router, not modem lol. But I might pick this one up, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY

Depends on Router. I have this and it works very well. Haven't tested the NAS feature yet.

Thank you for such a detailed reply. After your reply and checking out those links the other comments make much more sense to me.

i checked out the equipment you recommended, read more about them online to get a better understanding but its very expensive for me.

I thought I'd buy a cheaper router for example
archer c50. or archer C7. and get one of the UAP you mentioned but apparently getting equipment from different companies causes problems in switching connections automatically when you move around the house, so it'd be better to get ones from the same company.

Cause of that what do you think about one of those archer C50 or C7 with a TP link access point like AC1350.??

Yes regarding your last paragraph i got that sorted out yesterday. Asked Verizon to convert COAX to ethernet. Yes its through the MoCA adapter in case I decide to get TV services from verizon in the future.

it could be both. But it is most likely the router, due to age.

here is a list of well rated ones. and here is a good reviewed one for under $50. <- I wouldnt suggest this one for any floorplan over 1000 sqft.

I was thinking of getting:
Tp link c50:
and
separate switch:

will use the switch mainly for moving file across NAS and comp which have gigabit ports. Only issue is that there will a Fk ton of cables/power plugs.

Something simple like this should do fine then https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Ethernet-Router/dp/B0168G0KZY/

> C50

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/cat-9_Archer-C50.html#specifications

The TP-Link page uses the numeric speeds of 100mpbs

TP-Link AC1200 Wireless Wi-Fi Dual Band Fast Ethernet Router (Archer C50)

Amazon uses the term "Fast Ethernet" which is the standardized name for 100mbps

So the router may get faster speeds but only point to point on the wireless

I'm not exactly sure whether you're asking about which internet service to get or which hardware to buy so here's my opinion on both:

Unless your apartment complex is wired for some sort of fiber then TWC might be your only option anyway but if they have Uverse available there will probably be cheaper (but much slower) packages available through them. I think here in San Diego they have a $30/mo for 6mbps option but TWC is $40 for 50-100mbps (depending on neighborhood) so I'd say that's worth the money.

Given that you're in an apartment I would recommend that you don't go with the cheapest option because odds are you'd get a 2.4GHz-only router and that's going to be awful due to interference. When everyone is home in the evening streaming Netflix you will have serious issues.

I recommend spending a little more money and getting a dual band router like this one. You'll also want to make sure that you name the 2.4GHz and 5GHz with different SSIDs and try to only connect to the 5GHz SSID on your devices. You may have some devices that can only see the 2.4GHz SSID but hopefully anything you'll use to stream video or skype/FaceTime with will be on 5GHz.

The downside to 5GHz is range but as long as your apartment isn't gigantic you should be ok. In my experience in apartments a weak 5GHz signal is better than any 2.4GHz signal.

Cable modem\routers are easy to get by nowadays, you can grab one off from amazon, best-buy or even your local wallmart, just make sure that the modem model number is Docsis 3.0
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/
this is a pretty good router, you can connect multiple devices plus this also has 4 reliable wire ports for wired connection

in the end I would also say that you should check out spectrum their Modem\Router is pretty amazing
plus they also have some amazing deals for triple play and double play bundles

Thanks for the reply!
Here's the extender I have : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010S6SG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_f.IQCbX14EK54

And here's the router downstairs :
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168G0KZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_qaJQCbXZ20WZN

I'm starting to think that I maybe in the wrong subreddit..

Please advise

I have used this one for a year now and want to upgrade because we have faster internet now and more devices connecting. (I went from 2 devices constantly connected to 6 devices streaming/gaming for reference)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ordered this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have had a lot of troubles with our orcon one. I have one of these on the way - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0168G0KZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

>I was researching higher-end ASUS and Netgear routers but then I stumbled across the Ubiquiti AC Pro.

The Asus and Netgear are consumer-level devices. The Ubiquiti device is an access point. What functionality are you really looking for? You probably don't want to be running consumer-level gear for a "high number" of devices.

Who will be installing and maintaining this equipment and the networks?

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-X4S-MU-MIMO-R7800-100NAS/dp/B0192911RA

Netgear nighthawk a2600 for $105 says 131 but 20% coupon is applied at checkout



NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S Smart WiFi Router (R7800) - AC2600 Wireless Speed (up to 2600 Mbps) | Up to 2500 sq ft Coverage & 45 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet, 2 x 3.0 USB, and 1 x eSATA ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HKLlDbC95EJ17

Well, I don't know wtf is going on at Amazon right now but these $200-$300 routers I've had my eye on are on massive discounts today.
129.99
NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S - AC2600 4x4 MU-MIMO Smart WiFi Dual Band Gigabit Gaming Router (R7800-100NAS) Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XxGgAb7T6H509


This thing is 159.99 for God knows what reason. Pretty sure it's a spaceship.
NETGEAR Nighthawk X6 AC3200 Tri-Band Gigabit WiFi Router (R8000) Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KWHMR6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fAGgAb06RB6N6

Ideally for 170? Thats kinda a strech, considering 5+ years is really aging the router too, but heres a hugeee 70 dollar discount that should do you really well for a pretty long time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=twister_B07VCGC77R?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

I'd start by looking up a list like this,

https://www.techradar.com/news/networking/routers-storage/best-router-9-top-wireless-routers-on-test-1090523

Found a gaming router list also,

https://www.techradar.com/news/the-best-gaming-routers

​

I'd personally suggest going with one that has antennas for the best possible wifi. I picked up a Netgear r7500v2 back in 2015 that I've been really happy with. Thing covers my entire single story brick house including the garage and yard. I'd go with a newer model by this point of course.

*Similar to what I have,

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=netgear+r7500v2&qid=1563548660&s=gateway&sr=8-1

This is the router often recommended here as the best single unit:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA

Off of this: ethernet cable to game consoles, TV, your plex server, etc. For wireless: run a cable to areas with weak coverage, add a TP Link eap225 or Ubiquiti access point.

Since you have a bit of a budget: think about running ethernet cables from where the router is to your non-moving devices.

Cables can go in attic/under floors/in walls. If you have old phone jacks, wires run in walls for sure, you can use those pathways for ethernet cables.

Is this the one your talking about https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-R7800-100NAS-Nighthawk-Ethernet-Compatible/dp/B0192911RA

I like the low latency for gaming you mentioned, but not sure what qos/sqm are and how that would affect me.

My own - using a R7800. I also use my own modem - a TC7650. It's basically just a rebranded CM600.

The tech's description sounds ridiculous to me. I assume you can change anything you want because once returned I'd guess they factory reset equipment before it goes back out.

I just bought the Netgear X4S (R7800) for work. It has OpenWRT/LEDE support, though it's outside your price range in CAD. Just another option to consider.

So something like a combination of these?:
https://www.ui.com/edgemax/edgerouter-x/ Edgerouter X for upstairs ethernet connection
https://motorolanetwork.com/cable-modem/mb7621.html MB7621? (Modem) https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-R6700-Nighthawk-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B0192911RA?th=1 Netgear AC2600 Router (I think that would be big enough, but might upgrade, the house is 3200 with basement, 2300 without)

Literally just went through this! I had the cm700 modem and it would drop connections to Comcast frequently. I went through a couple modem/ router configurations starting with the R7800 and at one point had the Netgear AC3200 router. Having gone through $500+ in networking gear I can recommend the R7800. I’ve got the Netgear R7800 sitting behind the Arris SB8200 and it seems to be a great combo. Handles my roommates and I across the apartment streaming and gaming at the same time. Each of us has a few devices over WiFi and then I’ve got some devices over eth. Dynamic QoS seems good and the UI is decent.

TL;DR: Get the Netgear R7800 and the Arris SB8200

EDIT: Formatting and links

Get this for a couple bucks more. There is an Amazon Warehouse one for cheaper that I'm sure is fine. I bought mine as a refurb works great. 1.7ghz processor vs 1 ghz, both dual core.

NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S AC2600 4x4 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet, MU-MIMO, Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa (R7800) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0192911RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dIjdBb0VBPVB5

I guess I should have posted an update, but I did fix the issue. After trying a bunch of stuff on the XB6, I decided to buy a new router, and use the XB6 solely as a modem. Once I did this pretty much all my network issues were fixed. After doing a lot of research I believe it has something to do with the UpNp on the XB6 which is what opens and closes ports automatically which when playing any online game it's pretty important. The UpNp on the comcast XB6 just seems to be really crappy, since I bought the new router I haven't had a single issue, and its been about a month now. The router I ended up buying was the NETGEAR Nighthawk X4S, you probably could get something cheaper, but do a bit of research beforehand. This router is pretty good with supporting gigabit service, and the wifi range is pretty good on it as well. I was having issues from disconnects in a bunch games, and the thing that pretty much caused me to buy a new router was whenever I played PUBG, after the pre game lobby ended I would never be in the plane, I would have to restart the game to be able to play, it was super annoying. I also have a business line, through Vonage in my house that was not working at all, when I upgraded, my internet, but as soon as I got the new router that was fixed as well. So if your having similar issues I highly recommend getting a new router. If you do this let me know and I'll tell you how to convert the XB6 to a modem only, and get rid of all its router functionality. Hope this can help you out.

Link to router: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192911RA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just got us one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192911RA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome router, amazing speed. Great coverage.

You’ll likely just want to get a consumer router which is actually a router, switch, and AP. The router takes the single public IP that your ISP provides you and allows all of your devices to communicate with the internet with just the single public address through NAT. A typical router will have one Ethernet jack for connection to the internet and 4 for connecting devices via a cable. If you can swing it, wire as many devices as possible for the best experience.

I like Asus routers for their ease of use, but having advanced features built in if you need them.

Here’s one I’ve installed at friends and family’s homes:

ASUS RT-AC66U B1 AC1750 Dual-Band WiFi Router, AiProtection Lifetime Security by Trend Micro, AiMesh Compatible for Mesh WiFi System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7mKkDbG1AAT7P

I own the ASUS RT-AC66U B1 that I bought from Newegg.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hmzuDb6T2M2WB

This router contains features as AiMesh (which let's you have it and other compatible ASUS routers become a mesh system), 4 gigabit lan, and a ton of customizable options. Also, if you like, you can install custom firmware on it for more flexibility.

I got it so that I can use it alongside the FiOS quantum gateway router for my new build.

That's typical enough that almost anything will do - it's actually pretty hard to buy a really BAD router these days :)

I've used and like Asus and Linksys routers before, so one of those ought to do pretty well. Unless your house is large enough that you can't cover it all with one AP, something like one of these should work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Dual-Band-AC1750-Gigabit-RT-AC66U-B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/

https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-EA6350-Wireless-Dual-Band-Anywhere/dp/B00JZWQW4C/

ASUS Dual-Band 3 x 3 AC1750 Wi-Fi 4-Port Gigabit Router (RT-AC66U_B1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ruuCbmdKykz5K
This is the one I bought. Had a discount when I got it. Connected immediately, haven't had an issue since I got it. Has multiple devices connected simultaneously with no lag. Couldn't recommend it enough.

Consumer networking gear typically has three roles built in: Modem, Router, and WiFi Access point.

The modem is responsible for converting whatever signal your ISP provides into standard Ethernet. For example, a cable modem can understand the signal that comes in over coax into a Ethernet connection.

The router does some packet level inspection and keeps track of which computer should receive data from the internet.

The switch is just a device that lets all devices on a physical network communicate with each other.

The access point is just a bridge between the physical network and the wireless(WiFi) one.

The resulting setup looks something like this:
ISP <-> Modem <-> Router <-> Switch <-> Access Point

Since you already have a modem and router, you're just trying to add another access point to the setup

Basically, you need either a dedicated access point, or a router that can be put into "access point mode"

Do you have TMobile or Sprint? You can get free WiFi router from them (AC66U or 68U).

Anyways, an AC66U B1 ($115) would be a solid choice. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xugwzbD0HH65G

You only need the Verizon Quantum Gateway if you also get television.

This Archer C7 supports the 1.75Gbps total wireless that the Verizon router offers, but you don't really need that unless you are wirelessly moving data among local devices. Also, both have Gigabit wired ports — 1,000Mbps to your 50Mbps service.

I have this ASUS router, that I got refurb'd for $65.

Yeah, it's probably time for a new router; probably an AC1750 class router; maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-RT-AC66U-B1-AiProtection-Compatible/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

I was looking for some sort of emulator for that model so I could see what he is seeing, nice find. +2 on upgrading to a newer router. You can pick up a AC66 nowadays for around $100 which is a steal in my opinion. I've had mine for 3 or 4 something years now and it has been fantastic. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U_B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521227480&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+ac66

I have the ASUS RT N66U. The newer version of mine is THIS. I've never had a problem with mine. The range is great and you can have guest networks so people aren't bugging you about your WiFi password, and they aren't on your personal network, so they won't have access to network shares.

I have this one and it has been amazing for the several weeks i have had it so far. It has a pretty good interface that is stupidly easy to set up if you don't fully know what you are doing.

> Well to outright buy the verizon router it costs $150. Do you have any suggestions that might run under half that?

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U-B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504488034&sr=8-1&keywords=Asus+AC+router

A friend of mine has one of these. Slightly older model but very reliable.

The Netgear I linked to is just a modem. It will only have one port (no wireless) which needs to be connected to a router.

If you do a lot of online gaming on the Xbox and don't have to have wired downstairs, it would probably be best to have the modem in the same room to use a wired connection.

I doubt the two floor townhome would be big enough to have significant concerns over wireless performance. But I will point out a couple options you may not be aware of. First you can set up a wireless bridge which is essentially a wireless cable. The device acting as the bridge would normally have 4 or 5 wired ports to plug into. This of course still depends on a good wireless connection between the router and bridge device. But the advantage is that the bridge can have stronger wireless antennas and is better able to communicate with the router than the built in wifi on devices like game consoles or laptops.

The other option is powerline adapters which actually provides networking over powerlines. Simple plug one into the wall near the router and connect a cable to it, and then plug in one or more into other electrical outlets. Powerline performance can vary greatly though. In some homes they work nearly as well as running an ethernet cable, but in some homes they are completely unreliable. In most cases they will at least work well enough for streaming and anything else other than gaming. Gaming over powerline is certainly possible if they end up working well in the townhome.

In a two bedroom townhome these probably aren't necessary, but something to keep in mind if the xbox isn't wired and the connection isn't stable.

For the router/wireless..

Personally I am a big fan of Ubiquiti products, but they are a lot more advanced than routers designed for home use. Their routers do not have wireless built in, but rather they sell separate wireless access points (Unifi). I use an Edgerouter X which costs about $50 and a single Unifi AC wireless access point. I have the Unifi AC Pro which is $130, but there are also the Unifi AC Long Range ($100) and Unifi AC Lite ($80) and any of them should be fine. The Pro is capable of a bit higher speeds, but the extra speed would likely only be beneficial if you are sending files between your devices (Plex media server for example). Just make sure you don't get the older non AC models.

While they are more advanced they really aren't very difficult to set up. With the Edgerouter you basically just need to login to it and select a wizard (specifically the one named WAN+2LAN2 which will set it to act like most any home router). Then for QoS (quality of service) to prevent streaming, etc to cause a lot of spiking while gaming, you go to the QoS tab to enable Smart Queue and then simply enter the Download/Upload speeds of your Comcast plan.

Unifi wirelss access points are a little different in that you can't directly access them to manage. Instead you install Unifi controller software on your computer to configure all Unifi devices on your network. There are a lot of advanced options for Unifi but basically all you need to do is go to settings and add one or more wireless network, being sure to set the security to WPA Personal with a security key (password).

Aside from Ubiquiti I have had the best experience with ASUS Routers. Probably just about any of the ASUS dual band wireless AC routers would be fine (such as https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-AC1750-4-Port-Gigabit-RT-AC66U_B1/dp/B01N08LPPP/). Not sure how well their QoS features work since haven't used them, but I imagine. Netgear Nighthawk AC routers also have a great reputation although I never used them personally. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00R2AZLD2/

So recommend one of the following:

1. Unifi Edgerouter X ($50) plus one of their Unifi AC wireless access points ($80-130)
   
   
2. ASUS dual band AC router such as the RT-AC66U (around $100)
   
   
3. Netgear Nighthawk dual band AC router such as the R6700 (around $90-100)
   
   Along with the Netgear modem

I was thinking this one

ASUS RT-AC66U B1 AC1750 Dual-Band WiFi Router, AiProtection Lifetime Security by Trend Micro, AiMesh Compatible for Mesh WiFi System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_H7SUDbMRY8MZ1

I am a fan of this Asus Router with this APC backup power supply.

If you have an android phone check out how crowded your Wifi is with Wifi Analyzer. Sorry IOS does not have any Wifi Analyzer apps.

Hi all,

Thank you for the input. Your answers led me to more research and I ended up getting the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N08LPPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1WW638/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Replaced the current router, set it up for vlan 201 and used the extender upstairs and now getting 100 mbps wifi on devices plus extended coverage upstairs without problem.

Thanks all for the great support and responses.

This is the one I was using for a while:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N08LPPP

The RT series is well supported in terms of firmware updates. My older RT-N66W still gets firmware updates every couple of months.

The main thing is that your router should be in the same room (with line of sight) to the Quest and the PC should be connected via Ethernet to the router. Otherwise the video data from your PC will have to go through walls to your router to get to the Quest, which will likely make things not as smooth as they should be.

You could use a Mini router. And use SSH to connect to the network
Edit: Wrong router

This is great! I'm glad they added this. I personally use my own router while traveling, that I can agree to the TOS on, and then connect my devices to that. Makes for a bit more security and allows all my devices to connect just as if they were doing so at home.

If you still want to try the network solution, buy a small travel router to connect to your network with Ethernet via WiFi. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-3VHDbJM9E4Q8

Otherwise, you can load most games off of a USB flash drive with OPL.

Your best bet is to get a travel router like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=travel+router+wifi&qid=1569147249&sprefix=Travel+rourer&sr=8-3

USB powered and it has quite a good chipset for the price.

Something like this might work:

TP-Link AC750 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router - WiFi Bridge/Range Extender/Access Point/Client Modes, Mobile in Pocket(TL-WR902AC)

So, something like this? TP Link WR902AC.

I have the previous version (WR802N). It has a "wireless hotspot" mode that acts as a wireless bridge. You can set it to have a different VLAN if you want to, or just use the same IP address as before.

ive had good luck using tplink travel router as a repeater for IOT devices. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RCZQH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You could also use a raspberry pi zero with an extra wifi adapter as a wifi repeater. for a cheaper more diy solution.

Addendum to my earlier post:

If you decide to give the travel router a try, make sure you get the AC model like this one below. Other models only support 2.4GHz and while it might work, it's not worth dealing with signal issues on top of Internet connectivity as well. The good news is that the Enchantment's wireless has great coverage, about the only place we had any less than four bars of signal were in the elevators.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH

this is similar to the one I use:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542211541&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+travel+router

It's called a bridge. A WiFi Client mode device that allows you to plug in your ethernet cable.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_8

You can use the router to bridge but then no firewall and your devices will be visible on the network or use a wireless game adapter/Travel Router to login and feed an ethernet connection to router.

Buy one of these travel routers.

You can spoof its MAC address, or hardwire it, and have your own private wifi network.

Use this to solve your problem.
TP-Link AC750 Wireless Wi-Fi Travel Router (TL-WR902AC)


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just buy something like this. https://smile.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484353834&sr=1-12&keywords=router


You might be able to do something with a switch or AP, if you manually assign everyone IPs, but I'm not 100% sure that would even work. Just get a router so you can use DHCP and your life will be infinitely easier.

1. Get El Classico, the Linksys WRT54GL.
   
2. Install an open-source firmware build on it.
   
3. Using the built-in management tools, conduct a channel survey to find out which channel has the least interference. Switch to that channel.
   
4. Turn up the power on the radio to the full 200mW.

I was thinking about a commercial router like this one for example: http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA with a slot for a Raspberry module.

No worries! And I am sorry, you say that ($50/60) in your OP.

E2500, 2700, or 32oo refurb:

http://store.linksys.com/products/linksys-outlet-refurbished_stcVVcatId543906VVviewcat.htm

This:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085WN7YQ

This gets good reviews at amazon. I have not used one:

http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B0044YU60M/ref=zg_bs_300189_2

If you are going to try this brand, I'd get the upgrade for ten bucks more:

http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-Wireless-Broadband-802-11n-Internal/dp/B00A3YN0Z0/ref=zg_bs_300189_13

This has great range, but out of price range, and single band only:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=zg_bs_300189_28

$73 with rebate though.

I have not used one:

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Wireless-App-Enabled-Dual-Band-DIR-826L/dp/B0081TXJ28/ref=zg_bs_300189_33

http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-Whole-Home-Router-Wireless-N-DIR-645/product-reviews/B005DIPWFC/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

One of those will do it.

No Belkin please, sorry. (And yes I know belkin owns linksys now.)


Here we are back at the real WRT54GL again:

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/ref=zg_bs_300189_6

Fifty dollah. Still a good router, for light loads, single band only. I think I'd go with a dual band refurb myself.

You did some good troubleshooting, the router definitely seems to be the choke point. The only routers and Wifi Repeaters that give me troubles, were the ones people purchased on the cheap. My router at home for comparison, it's an old beast but with the DD-WRT Linux Firmware upgrade, it's awesome.

1st of you're being an asshole. Talk to your roommates instead of trying to be an internet czar. If they don't know you're doing this you truly are being a dickhead. Living with people comes with sharing. Now just because you always want a no lag LoL connection doesn't mean you can throttle your roommates without telling them.

2nd off the router you have is a piece of shit. You get what you pay for, I'd look at this Asus or this Linksys

I personally have the Linksys and its amazing. It is only G speed but is the most reliable thing I have ever owned. I've had it 3 years now not once have I restarted it or had issues with it. I am running DD-WRT custom firmware on it and that makes a huge difference. Check their site if your router is compatible.

You're looking for a wireless router. You can pick one up anywhere. Here's one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA/
Most companies wouldn't want you broadcasting their internal network, so you may run into problems with the IT department, but otherwise easy to set up.

I just renewed for a 2nd year with Colba.

No throttling, unlimited bandwidth, good service.

Best router ever: WRT54GL (open source firmware)

Cheap little ADSL2+ modem I've been using for 5 years without issue: TP Link TD-8816

http://www.speedtest.net/result/2046862988.png (taken now while gf is on laptop... can usually get up to 12 or 13 down)

Yeah, you could set up MAC address whitelisting. This will let you limit specific devices onto the network. It can be bypassed by someone technologically savvy, (sniff the network for MAC addresses of those allowed on, the attacker can then spoof the MAC address and gain access) but probably not enough to worry about it.

EDIT: The 'equipment' charge will probably be a modem. That should connect to the wall, and then you would hook up your wireless router to the modem. You probably shouldn't get their router, get something like this, as it has compatibility with DD-WRT (an open-source firmware) and will be highly configurable. This one does not have Wireless-N, so plan accordingly.

I know it's over your budget, but this is the one i'd recommend to everybody. I've got one at home and it's stable, hasn't crashed on me once. It also has excellent signal strength and is easy to set-up: Linksys WRT54GL.

As for one within your budget, I think this one should do the trick:
TP-Link WR740N.

Apparently its Linksys, not TP Link, my bad. https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/dp/B000BTL0OA

Camera that auto-uploads to WiFi AP: http://looxcie.com/

A variety of open source mesh WiFi projects: http://openmesh.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/a-list-of-open-source-ad-hoc-network-and-routing-protocolsplatforms/

Hardware is cheap, $55 for a WRT54G that can be firmware modded: http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-WRT54GL-Wireless-G-Broadband-Router/product-reviews/B000BTL0OA/ref=sr_1_2_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Thanks again for all the help. Would any gigabit router work, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00JZFG6QS

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484172720&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gigabit+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHg%2BLqdL&ref=plSrch

Would I need to get the AC router in order to maximize performance or would the N router work just as well, as long as they're both gigabit?

Also, would wireless speeds go up at all with a gigabit router? Can wifi speeds get close to max (like 100-120) with a better router?

You'll probably be okay then. I would recommend this one over the second one you linked there: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RYYZZS or this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YLAUU8

Definitely get something that is gigabit.

So whats the dif between this Asus router and something similar like this with a much lower price?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465584977&sr=1-4&keywords=gigabit+router&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011

To be honest, a router is a router when it comes to what you're trying to do.

that said, this is the one i have :

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Gigabit-Printers/dp/B002YLAUU8

I've flashed it with DD-WRT and it's now a much more capable router with QOS, VPN, Bandwidth Monitoring etc.

It's cheap and cheerful, and once flashed, very capable.

Gigabit ports and a USB port for your USB drive or printer are nice features.

Ok then I think you'd be fine with a standard $50 2.4Ghz router. Nothing heavy duty, just reliable and consistent. I've installed dozens of these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Gigabit-Router-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B002YLAUU8/

Yeah seems that way.

Guess I have no choice but to buy a new router if I want to go wired? I looked around real quick for a cheap gigabit router and found https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/?tag=aboutcom02lifewire2-20 . Would appreciate your thoughts on it. Thanks for all the help.

I'm tired and depressed over this whole thing though. So I'll resume the hunt tomorrow.

The V2 of this router is worth the extra money, as well. It has more RAM and a much faster processor. I think it is the same processor that is available in some of the Archer models.

Check out the specs here: http://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-wr1043nd

720 vs 400 MHz and 64 MB vs 32 MB RAM.

Throw gargoyle or dd-wrt on it and you have a very nice setup for less than $50. Link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418564869&sr=1-1&keywords=1043ND+v2

If you're still looking, I've bought a TP-Link TL-WR1043ND a while ago (I have rev V1, this is V2) and it supports everything. I've been playing around with it extensively (subnetting, SSH server, USB NAS, virtual WLAN interfaces, bridging, multiple DHCP servers, boosting WLAN transmission, troubleshooting with WLAN interferences from other routers etc.) and I haven't had any issues with the hardware at all.

TP-Link n300

Similar brand Linksys E2500

I have this one - TP-Link n750

I have an SB6141 with comcast, but they aren't throttling it so the fact that it's "end of life" doesn't mean much to me. Personally I dislike Netgear devices and considering they're the same speed, I'd say go with the TP-link modem.

As for the router you linked, this one is half the price.

I've had good success with the TP-Link N300. It isn't the fastest one out there, but it's pretty inexpensive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002YLAUU8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this and it works absolute wonders with DD-WRT installed on it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8/

Note: I do not know how the wireless is on it as I have a completely separate device for being a Wireless Access Point. I am only commenting on its speed and routing capabilities.

What is your budget. I have this one and it works like a charm. It has gigabit ports which is an advantage over the one you linked.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YLAUU8?cache=e1ab007c0f5e3151d3d31956824eacda&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412634863&sr=8-10#ref=mp_s_a_1_10

If you are in an area with a.lot of wireless networks, then the 5ghz version would help with interference.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0098QV038?cache=e1ab007c0f5e3151d3d31956824eacda&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412634863&sr=8-7#ref=mp_s_a_1_7

http://lifehacker.com/5060053/set-up-universal-ad-blocking-through-your-router

Thats an example. I am using tomato so thats pretty much what I'm doing, but I'm using a package that came with my build of tomato rather than the one theyre talking about in the article.

http://tomato.groov.pl/?page_id=69

any of the routers on that page would be compatible, personally for my main router I'm running the Asus AC-3200 because I needed the extra memory and processing power since I run a bunch of services out of my house and need the extra power for processing all the connections along with running applications directly on the router, but for more average home use literally any of the routers listed on that page are great.

https://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

That one in particular is good and well priced, there are cheaper options but I am a fan of asus products as I've always had good luck with them. I think the netgear ones are also well liked and even cheaper.

This?


ASUS (RT-N16) Wireless-N 300 Maximum Performance single band Gaming Router: Fast Gigabit Ethernet, support USB-Hard Drive and Printer and Open source DDWRT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YdDHxbFV89MTC

I have an Asus RT-N16 router that has been rock solid. I flashed it from it's stock firmware to Tomato and haven't had a single issue with it since. Of course, my maximum is only 6-7 machines...

I have heard a lot of good things about the Asus RT-N66 model, but haven't had a reason to upgrade.

I think you'd do well with an Asus RT-N16, throw DD-WRT / your favorite distro on it, and watch your connection scream.

Yeah leave the Xbox on auto and just try using UPNP. I had a Linksys WRT54G (long story) that I had to use for a bit. Biggest POS router I have ever used. Constantly had NAT problems. I couldn't get two Xboxes on Live at the same time (could sign in, one wouldn't be able to enter match making). Had lots of problems with torrents being slow as balls, UPNP not working, port forwarding not working. Replace that with an Asus RT-N16 and flash DD-WRT on it. All your problems will be solved.

You can have the router (well.. a good router) assign the Xbox a static ip address by entering the Xboxes MAC Address into the router config. On DD-WRT it is under Services->Static Leases. You could try to flash DD-WRT onto the router you have now... but I recommend buying a real router.

Yessir that's it. It's also the same price on Amazon.

For firmware I recommend running Toastman's Tomato builds.

Just got my Gear VR in the mail yesterday, followed your steps and I'm getting some pretty bad lag. It's definitely a network issue, however I am running high performance router(s). Any tips on wifi setup? 1st router is a Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 I've tried connecting to both the N and G signals I have setup. From there it's hardwired to my PC through a Asus RT-N16 router that is running in switch mode. All connections are gigabit capable too. I also have a third Wifi network running off the Asus router but it is configured more for range than latency and it had the worst of the lag out of the three. I unfortunately have no wireless card installed in my rig so no WiFi Direct to test. Sorry if that got too nerdcore, networking sucks haha!

I'm going to update my Netgear's firmware and give it another go!

Definitely get a new router. If you go with a Roku 1 a good single band wireless N router will be good. I prefer to spend a bit more than you would think you need to for quality.

ASUS (RT-N16) is pretty rock solid and you can usually get at least 30mb down wireless off a 60mb connection.

If you do not have Netflix, Hulu, or Amazon Prime your options will be limited. Crackle is good and free but has commercials. There are a lot of niche channels that specialize in a genre or type of show. As with cable 90% of the channels will not be anything you care about. Explore the net for options on the "private" channels that you can add with a code instead of through he normal Chanel store. Some of those will charge a subscription, but a lot are free.

Think about if you'd like to stream media to the TV from your computer. If so look into using the Plex or Rarflix channel to connect to a Plex Media Server you run on your computer. Also if you run a Plex server it can be used to access other channels as well.

You can just a buy a Roku box for each TV you want to watch on.

As with many things you will get back what you put into it. A lot of work setting up Plex with channels/searching for the channels you like in the channel store and in private channels will result in a very good range of choices. If you have Netflix and/or Hulu or Amazon Prime you'll have to search less to find what you want.

I quit cable and went all Roku based streaming 2 years ago and have never regretted it.

Similar to /u/seant117, I'm rocking on Comcast with Motorola SB6121 and ASUS RT-N16. Be sure to get a DOCSIS 3.0 modem.

Stuff like this is why I like to purchase my own router. Cable companies either want to charge you a rental fee or force you to be a hotspot to pay for the router.
Good routers are very reasonably priced. For example:
SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0

Edit: Well that was a cable modem. Let's post some routers instead. Thanks /u/A_Water_Fountain

ASUS RT-N66U

or something cheaper:

ASUS RT-N16

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/ (I don't know much about modems, but have seen this one frequently recommended on support subreddits)

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ (2.4 ghz only, good enough for 99% of people)

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/ (5ghz + 2.4ghz, good if you are in a heavily congested WiFi area, i.e. have 10+ strong-medium strength interfering networks)

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-AC1900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00F0DD0I6/ (If you can spend more then get this instead of the N66U above)

It is under $100...
http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

Ref: http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=ASUS+RT-N16

See above answer

http://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/1k8739/nfl_chromecast_question/cbmgpng

EDIT: It freezes anytime I cast a tab, regardless of whether it's a movie or just a generic page. It froze last night while I was casting the Chrome web store, even using 480p.

For kicks, my router.

I tend to prefer these:
http://www.amazon.com/RT-N12-Wireless-N-Advance-coverage-Router/dp/B005EIH4DE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346987954&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+n12

This is the one I own. Albeit I have it modified with Tomato and love it (another story for another day):
http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346988447&sr=8-1&keywords=asus+n16

Anything with an internal antenna will usually have inferior reception.

As for setting up. Make sure to lock down your wireless network or you leave your internet and your devices exposed to the world. Make sure to password protect your wireless (WPA). I also use MAC Address filtering. In plain terms it allows only approved devices, by you, to connect to the wireless even if they have your password.
http://compnetworking.about.com/cs/wirelessproducts/qt/macaddress.htm

Asus RT-N16 is under 80 dollars shipped! Powerful and popular unit, works well with EasyTomato firmware. I use it for 8-10 devices with no issues.

I just got this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387G6R8
Then I flashed it with this: http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index
I am very happy with this purchase.

What router do you have? I would start by replacing it with a higher quality model that supports DD-WRT (like the Asus N16).

If you're looking for 100% reliability, go wired. Run some CAT6 in-wall or along baseboards to each room. This works best when you both usually play games at a static location like your own desk, not just anywhere.

The link I found has it listed for $82. Is this the same model you mentioned?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00387G6R8

Just to clarify, there are two kinds of devices: those combos that are both a cable or DSL router as well as a "broadband router" in a single device. Sometimes an ISP will give you a device which is both and you have to disable the router portion (leaving the modem functionality) so you can use your own router. You might have known that, just wanted to make sure it's established. You didn't say if this was for home, enterprise or how many people would be using it at once and/or ifit would be in use 24/7 or or only certain times. I'm assuming your service isn't over 1 gigabyte in which case the Asus RT-N16 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00387G6R8/) is my favorite. Four gigE ports, to USB ports should they be needed, and it can run tomato/openwrt/ddwrt alternate firmware. In fact when I bought a second one in February it came with DD-WRT pre-loaded. At $83US I think it's a good deal. Disadvantage is that it pre-dates 802.11ac (it's just N for wifi).

I like net gear routers. you can pick up last years models for cheaper , or buy a used or referb of much cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-WNDR3400-N600-Wireless-Router/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1395794670&sr=1-3&keywords=R6000

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K

$47 each, can be put into access point mode and just as good an a lower-end Unifi but without the fancy controller. Buy a couple for the 3rd and 4th floor, plug them into your lan, and run them as access points with the same SSID/Password. Leave them on auto-pick channel.

There's no cheaper solution and these little N600 boxes are workhorses and an amazing value. You can dual-band, lots of bandwidth, and decent coverage for a song.

If you have a CDW or Tech Soup rep you might be able to get non-profit pricing on these things, but honestly, I doubt anyone can beat Amazon at $47.

>Even a booster might be out of the question

Do not ever implemented a range extender. Just add an access point. They cost the same.

This is the router i have. The router is in my bedroom while the printer is in the living room.

Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.

I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.

I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.

My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.

NETGEAR N600 Dual Band Wi-Fi Router (WNDR3400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_lRIPerQfTcmGi

I lied the one I got is only $50 right now. Buy that and on the 5268 you will need to put that router in the dmzplus mode which you can find in the firewall settings. Don't connect anything else to the 5268 and disable its wifi.

Is the router stuck in some sort of mode that only enabled 10mb (10-BaseT) ethernet connections?

Amazon lists the FE model as "Five (5) 10/100 (1 WAN and 4 LAN) Ethernet ports with auto-sensing technology" Try changing ethernet cables, verify it is Cat5e or Cat6.

In my experience, I've found the router/modem combos to be pretty weak. I'd recommend getting a regular modem (whether it's yours or your ISPs) and a separate router.

For a ~1,500 square foot house, this is pretty good. It's what I use at home, with ~6 mobile devices and it works great.

Would you be willing to trade the xbox one controller for a Netgear N600 dualband router?

That model is old as dirt and doesn't even do GigE - So anything on your internal network is limited to 100Mbit.

Try this one instead: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041LYY6K

Gah, I wrote my comment after seeing the "N300" and thought you were referring to Netgear, but now I see that wasn't the case. Ah well, it's not totally out of your budget, so here's what I've got on it.


I have had the Netgear N300 for about a year and a half and it's worked great. I live with 2 roommates and we can all be on our smartphones, laptops, and have netflix playing on the TV without an issue. Quite often we have 5 or 6 people in our apartment and there is no noticable slowdown with the router. Very occasionally we'll have to reset the router, but that's only once every 3+ months.

Next year we're looking at dropping cable for a roku, so we may have to bump up to the Netgear N600 to stream HD video all the time, which sounds like what you're interested in doing. It's on sale for $70 in the link I provided, and I'm really tempted to snatch it up right now!

I bought this modem used for a song, works great. This is the router I have, because it kept going on flash sale at one of those one sale per day sites.

Just checked not sure why you have both the modem and the router because this model is both combined

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-WNDR3400-N600-Wireless-Router/dp/B0041LYY6K

Selling


Motorola/Arris SB6121 Surfboard Modem - Amazon

Netgear N600 Wireless Dual Band Router - Amazon

This combo is a perfect internet setup for someone who wants to stop leasing equipment from Time Warner. Both items were purchased less than a year ago, and are in 100% like new condition with all boxes and cables. You'll see speeds of up to 45-50Mbps over WiFi, which is good enough for 2 people to stream Netflix and browse the internet at the same time.

I'm in IT and upgraded to a faster model to take advantage of the new 300Mbps TWC MAXX plan.

Paid $160, asking $80 for both. OBO

Thank you. :) Since my Ethernet card is 100mbps (About 12 MB/s ? ) and I have 100 mbps internet connection as well, I guess 10-12 MB/s is maximum speed I will read/write at, and even running two simultaneous connection, disk would't be a bottleneck. Plus, getting 10MB/s download from internet is extremely rare.

 
In regards to home networking, I am getting iperf3 result about 94 mbps in both LAN, and around 30-50 mbps with server in LAN, client in wifi. I am using Netgear N600 WNDR3400v2 , and while it have good review (4 start over 1500+ reviews), I feel like it is not doing justice to my internet speed. I pay for 100mbps, but get only 20-25 mbps in speedtest while on wifi and its not GBit LAN as will. Do you have any suggestion on good GBit (and possibly wireless ac router) that doesn't break the bank?

 
And I will look into VNC, I have heard good things about it. I have to have gnome desktop installed for me to use VNC, right? I am guessing only option to control with GUI disabled is ssh?

 
I appreciate all the suggestions.Thanks :)

yes I think I have the admin passwords for both. I thought I linked the one already, oops. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SBG7580AC-Docsis-AC1750/dp/B01KW9T39C/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1501607803&sr=8-8&keywords=arris+router+modem) is the router/modem that I was supplied and am currently using. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501607915&sr=1-3&keywords=netgear+router) is what I think is the other router I have. I know it was a netgear from 2010 and it looks like this, so I am pretty sure this is it.

Ok so first I recommend downloading Verizon's speed optimization tool Download

Second is more or less bad news. I don't believe that model of Verizon's gateway is 5ghz supported or Dualband. not only that but I believe they limit the ability of what you can accomplish with the gateway.

Do you know what wireless card you have in your laptop?

I would probably recommend this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-600Mbps-USBNOVEL-Wireless-10-4-10-12-2/dp/B06XRG9QDV/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1503454338&sr=1-5&keywords=wireless+card if you don't have a dualband card in your laptop.

Then turn off the wifi on your modem and get this

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503454414&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+dual+band

Two most affordable solutions.

Also hopefully someone can enlighten if this will work in place of the dongel

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-7260-HMWG-R-Wireless-AC-Bluetooth-Mounting/dp/B00MV3N7UO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503454504&sr=8-3&keywords=intel+dual+band+wireless-ac+7260

A new executive at my company demanded he have a MacBook Pro as his work computer and he was given one without my knowledge or input (I do basic IT work here).

Now the exec is coming to me with a ton of issues on the laptop and I know almost nothing about Macs (I have an MBP that I bought back when I was in college, but I've never really done anything more than write papers on there and stuff), nor do I have any professional experience with Macs AT ALL (every other person at my company uses a Lenovo ThinkPad, and I've only used PCs before professionally).

Anyway, this guy's issue is that his Mac constantly loses connection to Outlook (where he has our company's Exchange email, his Yahoo email, and his Gmail) when connected to our main wifi network (which is a standard 802.11n Netgear router that uses MAC authentication rather than WPA2... don't ask).

He will get occasional (but when it comes, constant) errors stating that some application (usually Yahoo or Gmail) has lost connectivity and to check the DNS settings.

What can be done about this? All the information is in correctly and I have never encountered an error like this. I don't even know where to start with this thing... no other employee in the company has ever had a problem like this (probably because this is a Windows environment...).

Thanks for any help guys. I'm at wit's end and the exec expects me to have this solved ASAP.

Edit: Exact error message is "Outlook cannot find the server. Verify the server information is entered correctly in the Account Settings, and that your DNS settings in the Network pane of System Preferences are correct."

What price range is what you'd consider to be "fair"? Because the $30-$50 range, the ASUS that's been linked (rt-n12/16) is about as good as you'd get. But $60-$80 is a different story, and I'd recommend the Netgear N600 dual-band (WNDR3400) for $75 or cheaper if you buy off eBay.

But, my main thing that I want to ask you is: what modem are you using? If it's a relatively small place, splurging on a new, high-powered dual band Surfboard or ASUS would make a massive difference in what you're experiencing, and would prevent bottlenecking your connections by expanding the highway for the devices to drive on

I use this one . It may be excessive but I like it compared to the cheaper Belkin I had before.

I got at Best Buy for about 70 bucks. I wouldn't buy one used from Craigslist though.

I have this laying around somewhere in my room, I'll double check to see if it still works. If so, I can sell it to you.

Okay, so I played my game for ~20 min on a connection wired to the router - and it played perfectly fine. So it might be my wi-fi, or by some black magic it decided to not act up when I was down there.

Modem Model:
> ARRIS DOCSIS 2.0 / PacketCable 1.0 Touchstone Telephony Modem HW_REV: 54
> VENDOR: Arris Interactive, L.L.C.
> BOOTR: 6.24
> SW_REV: 6.1.77D.D11PLUS
> MODEL: TM602G

Router Model:
> Model: WNDR3400v2
> http://amzn.com/B0041LYY6K

WiFi Card Model:
>http://amzn.com/B003AAW1SG


I noticed that the antenna is bent on my wifi card, but I imagine that cant be a problem.

So if the problem my router, modem, or wifi card?

Don't listen to the other guy, there's absolutely no reason to drop $300 on a router unless you really need it, which you don't. You basically have a generic router that basically isn't very good, but may be required by your ISP. That particular brand of router is remotely managed by your internet provider/ISP.

If you want to buy your own router, I generally recommend Netgear. Something like this should fit your needs > amazon link

You do want to check with your internet provider however and see if they do support BYOD (bring your own device). Most do, but not all internet providers are created equal.

Router was bought 4 years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510894337&sr=1-2&keywords=netgear+router
Modem was bought 2 years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Broadband-ADSL2-Modem-DM111PSP-100NAS/dp/B0085MRFVW/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1510894205&sr=8-23&keywords=netgear+modem
Modem

Here you go http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4?ie=UTF8&keywords=netgear%20gigabit&qid=1463023344&ref_=sr_1_2&s=pc&sr=1-2

This is my router:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475007188&sr=8-1&keywords=WNDR4300V2

sorry for the horribly delayed response, I've been crazy busy with work.

I have a NetGear N300 $10 (depending on shipping)

and

a NetGear N750 $35

But I can't find the boxes or manuals for them (for the moment at least), so either one will just come with the router itself and the power cord. There is a manual reset on each so you'll be able to easily reset it to factory settings.

I recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZWQW4C

If price is an issue, this is an older model but still decent:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HO9DK4

No. This is the router. Which is listed as being 802.11 a/b/g/n, 5.8 GHz

Would I benefit from getting a 802.11n adapter since the one I have is b/g?

i got this wireless router

As I'm planning to implement a new WiFi AP into my homelab, would this be a worthy upgrade from the netgear wndr4300? Or how does this compete against the TP-Link Archer C7?

EDIT: I found this link which does a decent comparison of the Archer C7 vs WRT AC1200

That modem causes massive issues so in all honesty go buy this and activate it so you save your $15/month you are being jipped on (trust me its worth it in 3 months).

Modem: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/arris-surfboard-docsis-3-0-high-speed-cable-modem-black/2836657.p?id=1218357903729&skuId=2836657

Router:
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1453772982&sr=1-11&keywords=wireless+router

(really anything with dual band/ac is what you want right now so if you find something cheaper/better go for it. You want gigabit now since it's an investment.


After the purchases make sure you set the DNS to either google or OpenDNS.

You can enable port forwarding, but most newer routers understand it so optional at that point.


Fun fact, renting their modems with wifi screws you even more. Ever wonder why those xfinity hotposts appear? Yeah it's because if you are paying for a 50Mbps down, you will only ever hit 35 because they isolate 15 of it for the public side of things. Welcome to corporate comcast.

If you want a modem/router combo: AC1900 Nighthawk


If you want one modem and one router: Arris SURFboard SB6141 and NETGEAR N750

That router is garbage. I looked at reviews and it averages about a 3 star rating with several reviews stating it has poor connectivity, range, speed, and reliability. Just because a company rates a product capable of certain things doesn't mean it actually is. Trendnet doesn't usually have good products and doesn't really seem to have a firm hold on the communications market for consumers. I recommend a router in the $60+ range made by D-Link, ASUS, Netgear, or TP-Link. The links are organized in ascending price, none of these routers have less than a four star rating, and all of them are either N or AC rated with dual band 2.4GHz and 5GHz.

There are 6 or 7 cables. I was looking at an 8-port dual-band router on Amazon. Would that do the trick by itself? I don't understand the purpose of a switch AND a router. Wouldn't a router handle all the traffic by itself? Please take pity on the networking noob! :-)

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Gigabit-Router-WNDR4300/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1382089818&sr=8-4&keywords=gigabit+ethernet+router

Was looking back at the post and realized it posted the range extender, not the router I use.

Here is the correct one.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Wireless-Dual-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008HO9DK4

Unfortunately, this is a locked down Comcast owned router/modem. I can't even change the DNS settings on my own computer (the standard DNS setting doesn't do anything, only a VPN works to do that). I highly doubt I would be able to access channel 14, or increase the power.

I looked into the 5GHz routers that Comcast gives out, and they mainly only provide them to those who also subscribe to their home security service.

Sorry for the bother, but is it worth getting a dual-band router under $100? Like this refurbished one: Netgear AC1450-100NAR, or this one: NETGEAR N750 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (WNDR4300)

Here is what I am running at home and have not had any issues watching TWD.

Mediacom Cable Internet 100/10

Amazon FireTV (direct connection, not wifi)

NETGEAR N750 Dual Band 4 Port Wi-Fi Gigabit Router

Also, make sure your using the Google DNS servers within your devices.

>Configure your network settings to use the IP addresses 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 as your DNS servers.

Everyone seems to like Asus routers. I like my TP Link router and it run's DDWRT great. TP-LINK TL-WDR3600

I have a TP-Link router that works pretty well for being cheap. It doesn't support DD-WRT or Tomato or anything which for your case would be nice. The feature set is so-so. However, it works well for $56.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B008RV51EE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407522173&sr=8-1&keywords=TPlink+dual+band+gigabit

Or for AC you could go with : http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Gigabit-450Mbps-1350Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1407522003&sr=8-6&keywords=TPlink+dual+band

Yea! Amazon sells the Arris HERE

and then you can get a router or whatever you would like to get.

directions are straight forward.

and then there is also /r/homenetworking if you need help setting it up or whatevs.

> WNDR3700

Alternatively if OP would like something new, I've had good success with this

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B008RV51EE/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1371099799&sr=1-18&keywords=router

Its rated pretty highly, also its dual band which is great, and its within your price range of $75

TP-LINK WDR3600 is what I recently purchased after upgrading to 50Mbps. It's a new brand but it has a load of features only found in 80-100$ routers and I got this on sale for $30 a few months back. It supports LAN speeds of 1Gbps too, so combined with a switch and proper cabling, you can get a decent setup. This also needs to be coupled with a modem capable of handling your internet speeds. When I upgraded my connection, my ISP didn't tell me their router and modem wouldn't handle it so I upgraded it myself.

Easily supports a PS4, Xbox 360, PS3, two desktops, two laptops, two smartphones, two tablets, and a home server all on the same inbound connection.

It really comes down to a brand you trust for at a price you're willing to pay.

That's easy: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B008RV51EE

And, FWIW, Commotion employs BATMAN-adv :) As well as OLSR, and Serval.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RV51EE I used to use that personally pretty good router at the time.

Price history here: http://camelcamelcamel.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/product/B008RV51EE?locale=US&context=partner

Does anyone know if this is a good router for a 1 bedroom apartment with 10+ devices? I currently have a 30down, 5 up connection. Is this overkill?

I don't need 2 WiFi ssids, i just need all my devices to make use of a 30down/5up connection without bottlenecking, s that all dual band is good for? I can't seem to find a newer router that's not dual band.


This is my current router. I used that with dd-wrt firmware, but my streaming always fails to my chromecast.

Still cheaper on Amazon at $55.

I've had really good luck with TPLink products. Both at work and in several residential environments. This one looks nice, has a boatload of features, and is DD-WRT compatible.

I've found TP-LINK to be a solid, no-frills Chinese brand. I have experience with their APs and routers.

I think one should only consider dual-band routers nowadays for WLAN.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B008RV51EE/
A TP-Link WDR3600 is comparable to a WNDR3700 (both "N600") but its cheaper, has more RAM, 2USB ports, external antennas and no version uncertainty: 3700v3 not supported (Broadcom), 3700v4 not yet supported (NAND flash). TP-Link WDR4300 is "enhanced" with a 3rd external antenna and supports 450MBit in 5GHz.

WNDR3700v1/v2 and "clones" WNDRMAC, WNDR37AV or TP-Link are often cheaply available on ebay, because ppl buy Gigabit Wireless 802.11ac now. Atm this is not supported with Openwrt yet.

I have a used modem and router available, both in good shape

the modem is on time warners approved modem list or whatever it's called

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RV51EE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063K4NN6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$80 takes em both

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RV51EE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's awesome. No more monthly rental and wifi activation fees and better nat controls

Edit: that sucker has been discontinued. Read and learn here: http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-wi-fi-router/

Highly recommend this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008RV51EE/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?qid=1418505764&sr=1-13&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I've been using it for 2 weeks and it's been running smoothly without any disconnection with all my Perk devices connected running 24/7. I'd guess the next tier one with 3 antenna would be great too (only $9 more).

Apartment. I was planning to buy the Motorola Surfboard 6141, but the router question was more up in the air. I can't afford to get a super expensive Asus or anything. Looking at this TP-Link, recommended by The Wirecutter.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RV51EE

more than enough and has nice range

Pardon if this is stupid, but what exactly does torrenting have to do with a router's amount of RAM?


This is the router I use, which is awesome and supports OpenWRT.

I live in a high rise with a ton of WiFi networks around and was having the same issue with several of my devices. I ended up getting a dual band (2.4 + 5ghz) router and that solved all of my issues. I also ended up having to buy an external USB 5ghz adapter for an older laptop to utilize the 5ghz signal, but it was well worth it. This was the one I ended up getting at Micro Center for about $50 USD. Good luck!

> It pings that often even if the request is not blocked. Pings all day constantly except sometimes it stops completely for about 12 hours. Then it continues for days.

That behaviour is downright bizarre! The ASUS RT-AC56U is a good entry level custom-firmware router, assuming you don't have a connection speed over 100Mbps. Personally, I run an RT-AC68U on Toastman Tomato firmware myself, which is good for <300Mbps connections.

If your Cable Modem is not DOCSIS 3.0, look at the following two choices:
http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SB6121-SURFboard-DOCSIS/dp/B004XC6GJ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404748033&sr=1-2&keywords=sb6141

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Motorola-SurfBoard-SB6141-DOCSIS/dp/B00AJHDZSI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404748033&sr=1-1&keywords=sb6141

For Wireless Routers, honestly 2.4GHz N150 or N300 is all you need at this time. If you want to have use for Wireless-AC at some point, get the lowest AC wireless router. Something like this would be ok for a need of AC routing: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1404748171&sr=1-4

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com has excellent resources on wireless routers. The first thing to learn is nearly all devices are 1 steam (i.e., you'll never see 1.9 GB/s speeds). They will explain a lot about N150, N300, AC(1200,1900,etc...). I personally am using a 5+ year old Cisco N150 wireless router and am probably still not hitting max speeds it can produce due to how cellphones/roku's/etc utilize so little of the available bandwidth.

Probably an Asus router, I love mine and they are known to be great. I also have a netgear, but I prefer asus routers.
I would recommend this https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW/ref=sr_1_33?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1469031217&sr=1-33&refinements=p_89%3AAsus%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A5928098011

ASUS RT-AC56U

Your speeds won't have anything to do with the ports if you're getting a successful connection. What is your internet package/ISP? My router is above and beyond what any device needs right now, but it will last a long time. How many devices do you have connected at any given time? Most routers will only really handle 5-8 wireless devices before it gets bogged down on the processing side. This router is a dual-core router with a significant amount of RAM (as far as routers are concerned) so it's equipped to handle a lot more throughput.

It does have AC but beam forming I'm unfamiliar with. It's the ASUS RT-AC56U. http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW

That's a lot of info! Thank you :) Even the Netgear AC1750 seems kind of overkill for me though.

Based on your suggestion, the combo I found on amazon seems to be good enough but I'd like your opinion if you wouldn't mind? For instance, may I ask why I shouldn't buy the below router and go with the one you suggested?

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless Router (RT-AC56U)

ARRIS SURFboard SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem

I just got this one for my apartment and it works fantastically for 70 dollars.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Certified-Comcast-XFINITY-CM400-1AZNAS/dp/B0111MRLES
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW

I'm also looking to buy a new router, and there have been so many recommendations for the C7. I ran into this while researching and it had me wondering how reliable the C7 is. Between the C7 and this router which one would you recommend?

The AC56 seems to have some 2.4 ghz band issues:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320167


1 out of 5 eggs

DON'T BUY THIS ROUTER!!

Pros: It's small, so doesn't take up much space?

Cons: VERY POOR 2.4GHZ (N) speeds.

Do yourself a favor, and do some research on this ASUS RT-AC56U wireless router... Ton's of people are getting very poor 2.4ghz performance. Like less than 1 meg usually, with the strangest spikes here and there, but overall a truly frustrating experience. All for a rather expensive unit too. I unfortunately was not ready to install this unit until several months after purchase, so I wasted money on something I cannot use now. Bummer to be me.



Cons: 2.4ghz issues? Seriously? Dumb me i didn't do my research like half the people that reviewed this and I'm stuck with a neat looking router that has 2.4ghz drop out ALL THE TIME. Upon further research I discovered after about 25-100MB of data transfered on the 2.4ghz band the connections drops down SLOW. Like 100kbps slow.



Cons: Wifi disconnects regularly (at both 5g and 2.4g), updating firmware and hard resets do not fix it. Only support solution offered it is to RMA it back to ASUS, which means I have to pay money to ship it. Do not buy this unit.



Cons: Unacceptable 2.4 GHz performance, the latest firmware as of this writing still maxes out at 20 mbps performance. switch to the 5 GHz network and the performance is much better. I'm on comcast with a 100 mb connecting and I get full line speed with 5GHz. Basically if you don't need to xfer files within your home network or if EVERY device is 5 GHz the router is fine. But thats just not acceptable to me.


http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW#customerReviews

***
Cons:

• 2.4GHz frequency, more specifically the 802.11N implementation is seriously FLAWED and not usable until ASUS fixes the issue.
  
  
• Clients drop connection on 2.4GHz 802.11N connection after about ~50MB of data is transferred. Router seems to go into low power mode, causing either drastic speed reduction (to say 1mb) or link loss/fade.
  
  
  
  1.0 out of 5 stars
  
  $100 of sleek black dissapointment, October 30, 2014
  
  By David Orsi (Savannah, Ga) - See all my reviews
  
  Verified Purchase(What's this?)
  
  This review is from: ASUS Dual-Band Wireless Router (RT-AC56U) (Personal Computers)
  
  I had high hopes for this and all it did was let me down. Someone I know has an ASUS router and he loves it. Based on the number of 5-star reviews opted to disregard all of the 1-star reviews... that was a mistake. This router did exactly what the majority of the 1-star reviews claimed.
  
  Day 1: Set up was a breeze... super easy, and very fast. Router worked perfectly for the first week or so.
  
  Week 2: Started have serious bandwidth issues on the 2.4g band. Would either drop out completely to the point that all 2.4g devises in my home "cannot connect to the internet" or it goes down to less than 1mbps which is slower that a 3G cellular signal. I then reset the router and all is well for a day or so and the problem repeats.
  
  The other serious issue with this router is its range... it claims to have 150% better range... my question is 150% more than what? I live in a town home... aka a glorified apartment and it cannot give me good coverage within my own home. I have my router mounted up high and not behind any objects and when I am in a back bedroom which is 15 feet down a hallway from where the router is located I get 1-2 bars of signal where 5 bars would be full.
  
  Overall this router has some serious issues that appear to be common amongst a large user base... I would say that this is something that needs to be address but it also appears that the Tech support and customer care is lacking as well.
  ***
  
  These reviews are consistent enough that I would stay away from this one, and I recommend Asus routers above all other (except for this model.)

I don't know if best and under $100 go together but with your pricepoint, get an Asus; They pretty much make the best wireless routers out there.

Despite what others have said, do not waste your money on an Airport Express or an 802.11N router. The Apple router debuted almost 3 years ago so you are paying for the Apple name (which is garbage in networking) and the N standard is quickly going to be like owning an 802.11G AP

Get the Asus RT-AC56U. If you can afford it I would go more expensive, but this is going to be the best bang for your buck if not: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1422400624&sr=1-5

Tomato router firmware has the best QoS I've experienced. Had a heavily torrenting peer on my network and gaming ping would go from 50 to 400ms. Tomato QoS fixed it. I would get a router with a powerful processor and capable of running tomato. The asus ac56u is the best one in your price range. http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-Router-RT-AC56U/dp/B00DES2FQW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449627317&sr=8-1&keywords=ac56u

there are plenty of good routers on the market right now that would be fine for 2 people

• ASUS RT-AC56U
  
  
• Linksys WRT AC1200
  
  
• NetGear N900
  
  
• TP-Link Archer C7
  
  I chose these in particular because they are all compatible with DD-WRT, a custom firmware for routers that is 9 times out of 10 better than whatever the router comes with.
  
  however, if signal strength for your PC's is the biggest issue, I'd say look into Powerline Adapters to run wired ethernet over your outlets rather than rely on a wifi signal

The ASUS RT N66U is pretty spectacular.

If you can't budge that $2, the N56U is good too.

I've never tried the RT AC56U but if it's like the others then it'll be great and supports 802.11AC.

The N66U is much better than the N56U, so if you can go with that one over the cheaper version.

The router's going for $50 on amazon, Surfboard for $40.

cat5e, yes, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DES2FQW/

Are you more worried about the modem or wireless router? Most modern modems/routers are just fine. It's the wireless radio that's terrible.

I just looked at a huge number of wireless router options, and the Archer C8 is my current pick for the money. While it's a tad slower than some of the fastest routers, it's affordable and has almost no bad reviews on either newegg or amazon. (<10% 1-2 star reviews). Every other router was more in the 20-50% 1-2 star review range. (Yes, 50%!).

Here's a list of the top performing routers from smallnetbuilder, sorted by 5ghz downlink. (I decided to use that instead of overall throughput, but it should be fairly similar).

| Model | 5ghz downlink Mbps | Newegg 1-2 | Amazon 1-2 | Amazon price | Newegg price |
|------------------------------------------------------|--------------------|-------------|-------------|--------------|--------------|
| TP-Link AC1750 / Archer C7 | 209.5 | 33% | 21% | $100 | $100 |
| Linksys EA6900 | 195.6 | n/a | 34% | $170 | $180 |
| Netgear R6250 | 184.8 | 23% | 21% | $130 | $133 |
| D-Link DIR-880L | 182.4 | 20% | 12% | $167 | $167 |
| Asus RT-AC66U | 166.7 | 31% | 20% | $151 | $151 |
| D-Link DIR-868L | 162.6 | 29% | 18% | $130 | $130 |
| Linksys EA6500 | 160.7 | 55% | 27% | $130 | $120 |
| Netgear R6300v2 | 159.4 | 48% | 21% | $140 | $140 |
| TRENDnet TEW-818DRU | 156.9 | 25% | 22% | $150 | $150 |
| TP-Link AC1750 Archer C8 | 155.6 | 13% | 13% | $115 | $115 |
| TP-Link AC1900 Archer C9 | 154.5 | 5% | 3% | $151 | $151 |
| Linksys AC1600 EA6500 | 151.4 | 55% | 27% | $130 | $120 |
| Linksys AC1200 EA6400 | 151.4 | 21% | 27% | $110 | $144 |
| Asus AC1200 RT-AC56U | 150 | 53% | 25% | $100 | $100 |
| Asus RT-N66U | 136.7 | 20% | 14% | $120 | $120 |

Thanks for the reply. I'll elaborate a little further.

I actually never had any NAT-related issues, and UPnP has always been enabled by default, even on my previous routers (all from D-Link, the latest being a DGL-4500 GamerLounge).

I've also always forwarded the required ports for my gaming consoles, as that was the only option available when it came to manually opening ports. After I switched to my current router (an Asus RT-AC87U), I noticed it had port trigger as another solution, so I decided to try it for a change.

I have a 100Mbps fiber-based internet connection, which should theoretically allow for 12.5MB/s download speeds. I was getting near top speeds (10-11MB/s) on my PS4 with all required ports forwarded, but the speeds on my Xbone weren't nearly as good (4-5MB/s) with the remaining (non-duplicate) ports forwarded.

With port trigger, Xbone speeds haven't improved that much, and on PS4 I was never able to achieve anything higher than 5MB/s again - that's what I meant when I said that the performance wasn't to my liking.

My reasoning is that port forwarding only works for one console and port trigger should grant both consoles access to any required ports when requested, but could go wrong when they request access at the same time.

I'm also unsure if having UPnP enabled and manually opening ports via port forwarding/trigger can cause any conflicts, besides being redundant.

To sum it up, I'm just looking for a definitive answer as to the best network solution for my setup.

Thanks. I've also heard good reviews for - https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-R7000-100UKS-Nighthawk-Dual-core-Processor/dp/B00HDK4GAK/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483466622&sr=1-1&keywords=R7000&th=1

and https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MPI5N7U?ref=emc_b_5_t&th=1

I was looking at these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-RT-AC88U-AiProtection-Accelerator-Aggregation-x/dp/B00MPI5N7U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497372852&sr=8-1&keywords=AC3100%2BDual-Band%2BWi-Fi%2BGigabit%2BRouter&th=1

but not sure what im looking at and which of these Asus ones would be appropriate

Powerline; or for the less (subjectively) ghetto setup, this ASUS

Asus makes awesome routers that are really easy to use and super powerful. I have this one:

ASUS RT-AC87U Wireless-AC2400 Dual Band Gigabit Router

and I love it, although there are like two lower models that have AC with the lowest being the

ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router

That's great to hear, so generally what I need specifically is a cable router? from what I gather with Hyperoptic being FTTP the actual wall socket is essentially the modem and that feeds via ethernet cable into the stock cable router?

I was looking at something like this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ASUS-RT-AC87U-Dual-Band-Dual-Processor-Dual-Core/dp/B00MPI5N7U/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=asus+rt-ac87u&qid=1556199220&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Really appreciated for the test etc, thanks for all the advice!

I recently got This badboy. Fantastic range and I haven't been experiencing the same issues as some reviewers.

I have my router set up at home as a VPN, that way times like now (I am in Germany for several weeks) I can do pretty much anything from my laptop or tablet as I would from home, but both are windows-based and natively have the ability for me to connect to a VPN by ip address.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MPI5N7U/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you travel for long durations regularly, it's really nice to not get geolocked, especially when going places where you dont speak the local language.

I have an ASUS RT-AC87U and love it. Range and strength of signal are among the best I've ever seen and I have been using wireless for nearly 17 years. It's available from Amazon.co.uk.

I have this Asus one. It works great - it's stable and I haven't had any disconnects. The interface is good too, unlike many other.

It's not photoshopped, it's fiber.

I'm using an ASUS RT-AC87 and damn this thing is fast. I'm sure it could handle 800-900mbps if I had the bandwidth.

I'm not sure if you are aware but you can purchase your own modem that Xfinity provides for internet and phone.

Xfinity XB3

https://www.amazon.com/Residential-Gateway-802-11n-GigaPort-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466635773&sr=8-3&keywords=TG862G

This is what you should get.

From my other comment avoid anything not sold directly from Amazon.

Yes, you can purchase your own modem/router but there are only a few models in existence that offer the voice service.

Here is one -> https://www.amazon.com/Residential-Gateway-802-11n-GigaPort-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8

Also if you go here -> https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com and put in your zip code (and select an internet speed), then select "Voice/Telephone Enabled" it should show a list of compatible modems as well.

The 2 it returned in my area were this -> https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/device/arris-tg862g-421 (equivalent to the first link I posted)
and this -> https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/device/arris-tm722g-405

Here is the desktop version of your link

Any DOCSIS 3 modem will be compatible.

The tricky part will be if you want Digital Voice. Comcast doesn't use the same protocol as common inexpensive modems do. You need a much more expensive modem (that's the only DOCSIS 3 telephony modem marked as "retail" on Comcast's compatibility list and is an all-in-one router + modem, but something like this may also work as a standalone modem).

As long as you're not in an area where they've implemented caps, and you can deal with 911 issues, you're probably better off going with a separate VoIP provider instead of paying for Comcast's Digital Voice. It might be a little more per month comparing just the phone fees, but there's that "hidden" $10 monthly fee for the necessary modem that you could stop paying.

No it's not an actual mainframe, which wouldn't work well in my apartment and yes the modem from Comcast has an integrated router/switch so there are four ethernet ports in it. One of these is passed connected to a physical interface on the server that connects to a virtual switch that is connected to the Sophos VM.

There are 5 xfinity router selling on ebay everyday and people in this forum talk about selling routers on every haul thread. That was my research.

This post is going to help people and I'm content with that. If I had run into one like it, I would never have purchased the router. Your response may have been in good faith but it reads like one long beratement.

On top of berating me, you are also spreading untrue information. You can buy an xfinity modem, look:

ARRIS DOCSIS 3.0 Residential Gateway with 802.11n/ 4 GigaPort Router/ 2-Voice Lines Certified with Comcast (TG862G-CT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GWDFzb4C0YM73

I can be sour if I want to be sour, there's nothing wrong with that, I already got over it.

Also if you look at the other items I sell you'll see that I have a lot of experience in this business, just not with routers.

Thanks for the advice-- speaking to the coaxial, we only have them on our first floor, with one near the staircase. Really the idea is that the two spots that need the WiFi most is the living room and then close to the upper floor living space. By moving the router/modem to the coaxial by the stairs, we'll likely see a flip in what we're experiencing (upper floor probably will have better WiFi, with living room now weak..so vice versa).

​

I did attempt to setup the modem/router inthe coaxial in the room by the staircase, but it comes up with this lovely error message, which we had in the living room too until the tech came and fixed the cables outside. So it seems that the wiring doesn't work for it.

​

As of last night I did notice an old looking ethernet port built into one of the walls in my room, but not sure if it will work with how this house's wring has been. Going to attempt that tonight and see if it'll run. (Will plugging in an extender to a wall outlet provide similar speeds to the downstairs?)

​

May need to purchase our own equipment...currently renting the Xfinity modem/router they gave us it would seem.

EDIT:

​

This is what we have from Xfinity supplying our internet. Assuming this isn't a rental, and just part of the package, and that additional routers would be considered the rentals?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Residential-Gateway-802-11n-GigaPort-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8

You can put it into bridge mode & use your own router only downside is price.

I have the default Comcast router/modem combo.

I'm not sure if it reboots by itself. I'm hesitant to put the blame on the router because my other devices work fine, and this problem only started happening recently.

I never get these messages and I own my modem. I'm not a Comcast fan by any means and I am their customer only due to lack of a reasonable alternative for internet in my area.

My modem is almost a year old.
ARRIS DOCSIS 3.0 Residential Gateway with 802.11n

ARRIS DOCSIS 3.0 Residential Gateway with 802.11n/ 4 GigaPort Router/ 2-Voice Lines for Comcast (TG862G-CT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_tRWzwbEE88CWE

Just received it a few months ago never had any network issues.

A modem I got from comcast called ARRIS DOCSIS 3.0 TG862G-CT.

Looking up the TG862 on Arris' website gives me this. That's clearly not what you have.

What you have is the Arris TG862G-TC, and I'm finding conflicting information on whether it supports dual band or not, probably not from what I can tell.

You can apparently tell by reconfiguring the wireless in the web interface, it should say something about 5 GHz.

I'd still suggest buying a better router (at least) and modem. If you replace the modem, you won't be able to use Comcast's phone service (and you shouldn't anyway).

FYI I think this is my modem/router (or VERY close)

https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-Residential-GigaPort-Certified-TG862G-CT/dp/B00NR1EHP8/ref=br_lf_m_pckg3obvyuob442_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pc

This one should work on Amazon

This one is on our 'recommended' list at http://mynewmodem.comcast.net/: http://astore.amazon.com/myde0bd-20/detail/B00NR1EHP8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR1EHP8/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

Arris TG862G Retail with eMTA support. This model is also leased to customers, so you must inform the agent when activating it's a retail model to avoid the system applying a lease charge.

It took a little searching to find, but there are voice-service capable modems, too. They are a bit more expensive.

Examples: http://amzn.com/B00721TUNS http://amzn.com/B00NR1EHP8

I have never used either of these.

I don't travel anywhere now without this tiny wonderful thing. If it happens to have a LAN connection in the hotel room, this helps you create your own wifi access point.

You can get a portable drive that works over wifi. Here is an example of an enclosure device for one https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-10400mAh-External/dp/B00RVIGY1I?ie=UTF8&tag=codihorr-20. You can back up stuff to it every night. Here is a blog post on how someone used it for video storage for tablets for a long car ride https://blog.codinghorror.com/your-own-personal-wifi-storage/

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-10400mAh-External/dp/B00RVIGY1I

I've got this hootoo router for travel, basically the same as the one you linked with a battery as well. My experience has been hit or miss with hooking it up to hotel wifi. Sometimes connecting through it lets me accept the T&C, sometimes not. Tends to work much better if there's an actual ethernet jack to plug in to rather than running it as a repeater. I've been able to trick my way around it with MAC ID spoofing, but it can take a bit of finagling to get it working in some environments.

Do you have a portable hard drive of any kind? If so This might be helpful

You can plug a portable hard drive or thumb drive into the travel router and each of your three iPads can stream a different movie at once. It also comes in handy while traveling to hotels. While it does not have its own cellular data it does work great off line or when connected to a public WiFi

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RVIGY1I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474836413&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=hootoo&dpPl=1&dpID=31nv90h8qHL&ref=plSrch

Those instructions don't make it clear that it's for sharing a WIRED connection to wireless devices, not for taking a wifi connection and routing it into a new wireless connection. Your Mac can't do that. What you need is a device like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RVIGY1I/

> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RVIGY1I/

Understood, thanks for your help!!

It sounds like they have greenfield enabled to ban 802.11b devices. A NAT router that has two radios where one is a client and the other is an AP would work. People do this all the time to connect more than one device to airplane wifi so that they only have to pay once. There are even travel routers dedicated to it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I
http://onemileatatime.boardingarea.com/2016/01/31/inflight-wifi-trick/

As others said, you could get in trouble for doing this. I suggest asking the network staff to replace the 802.11b equipment with something that you can use. That will also work better in the long run.

I've been very happy with my HooToo Travel Router/Battery Pack. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RVIGY1I/

> http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC3200-Tri-Band-Wireless-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00S9SGNNS

what are these for? Like besides better range should you buy one of these for home use?

You have several options.

You can add a second router to the barn and have it join a current WiFi. A lot of routers offer this feature, asus being one of the brands.

Find a router with external antennas and multiple bands. Asus has gaming routers that create up to three wireless networks. You can mount a WiFi antenna outside your barn and outside you home.

So what I would do is purchase two routers example

And a modem example

And two external antennas example

You’ll need to find the right adapter for the antenna and router combination you go with.


And return your rental.

Mount one antenna outside you house, plug it into your new home router. Plug the new modem to this router. During the configuration you’ll be able to create 2 5ghz wireless networks and 1 2ghz. Plug the antenna into the 2ghz. The manual will tell you which antenna is which.

Now mount another outside your barn and plug it into the 2ghz antenna port of the barn router. Then configure this second router to connect to the home WiFi.

You now have a wireless bridge with Ethernet ports in the barn.

If you just want WiFi access in the barn you will probably get away with just having an external antenna mounted on your house but this depends on the materials of the barn. Having the a 2nd router inside the barn creates a stronger connection inside.

I had this issue as soon as I got my Xbox One X Scorpio edition. We were both using an Arris Surfboard gateway router thing. Pretty sure it was this one. The issue would happen via wireless or wired. Either way, booting up the machine would almost always result in no internet connection to the Xbox.

This router was fine, worked great when we each had Day 1 Xbox Ones, but when we got the Xbox One X it started having issues for both of us. I went through all the support stuff I could, nothing fixed it.

Bought a new router, the ASUS AC3200 and it solved my problems. My friend still is using the old Arris Surfboard and he's still having this problem.

I switched my Arris Surfboard gateway into modem only mode and use this new router alongside that same old modem and it's running great.

>I can't buy a unifi setup due to low budget.

No, you do not need to buy a switch or a cloud key. All you need is the modem, a quality router, and a Unifi AP. Your router acts as a switch since it generally has 5 Ethernet ports, so the AP will just plug into the router. The cloud key is only for the Ubiquiti controller software. It's basically a dedicated mini-computer that runs the controller software for those who want to manage their devices remotely and get better statistical information. The cloud key is completely optional even though they say it's necessary. The controller software can be installed on your computer at home for the purpose of setup and that's it. Once you set it up, it's really powerful and extends your range quite drastically - I highly recommend. Just be sure to change the SSID and password to the same as your router, so that it handles wifi handoff on your devices.

This is the Unifi AP that I got. I would recommend at least a dual-band AC router with MIMO technology. There's plenty out there where you don't have to break bank, just pick a company that you want to support. I personally like Asus and I've heard great things about Netgear Nighthawk models. Either Asus A3200 or Netgear Nighthawk R6900P. Pair that with a good modem, such asMotorola Surfboard SB8200 (modem will depend completely on what your ISP supports, so don't buy that one unless you know). With this entire setup, you're looking at roughly $400. Even if you don't want to go the AP route, just going with a good router and modem to start will give you an idea of your wireless in your home/office. Unfortunately, working with a wireless signal isn't a one shot type of project. It requires several steps, but first start with the equipment that's feeding your internet.

You also didn't really explain anything in regards to your home/office setup: square footage, brick/drywall, metal obstacles, etc. All of these things play a factor in RF attenuation. You also didn't talk about your setup. Are we talking about being mobile with a phone and laptop, or is there a desktop involved? Are there streaming devices involved?

I haven't heard good things about either a range extender or a mesh system, but it works for some people. If you have a desktop computer, a USB network interface card would do you good.

This is the router to buy, no questions about it. Just go ahead and do it regardless of what you currently own. It'll make everything easier, and that router can be hacked in about 2 minutes to give it features that usually cost around $600 to get. As for helping you out, I'm not adverse. I should be in town Thursday through Sunday of that week, but earlier in the week I think I may be travelling.

It doesn't even have gigabit ethernet and doesn't even support wireless N. Do you understand what that means? It was first released in 2002. Twelve year old technology.

Here's a better alternative, cheaper too:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR1043ND-Wireless-Detachable-Antennas/dp/B002YLAUU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406053640&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+n+router+gigabit

This is the router I'm using.
I checked out the app you mentioned but I'm not sure how to determine which wireless channel to use

I'd urge you to no longer pay Comcast to rent there Modem and buy a new Dual Band Router at Best Buy or online. I'd recommend this one.
https://smile.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501534721&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+n600

Here ya go! Excellent router and highly configurable interface. Pretty decent range too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HO9DK4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DHk.tb1HRDJRW

If you wanna spend a few extra bucks I would recommend Asus.

thanks, i'm familiar with tp-link, but for $60 you can get their dual channel dual antenna 4+1 wifi router, so it pays to buy that and simply turn off the nat/dhcp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RV51EE i guess i was just surprised you don't see more home market priced access point like solutions with higher capacity wifi.

You can also use something like the Hootoo tripmate. This what I use for off-grid movie watching. It's a charger too.

Router - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Edgerouter-SFP-Desktop-ER-X-SFP/dp/B012X45WH6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525450276&sr=1-3&keywords=edgerouter+sfp

AP - https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015PR20GY&pd_rd_r=3MSNDMTD7SEC86GQAGPQ&pd_rd_w=U4We0&pd_rd_wg=ZtdyT&psc=1&refRID=3MSNDMTD7SEC86GQAGPQ

I had this precise issue... I have an 18mbps connection and that should be able to handle all that traffic (I think). I ditched the provider's router and got my own like you did.

I went with the ASUS RT-AC5300. No complaints since

If you're gonna do it, go full goddamn hog

https://amazon.com/dp/B01N08LPPP/ I highly recommend Asus APs, they get updates more often than other brands and are solid workhorses.

I take calls for Comcast. 90% is supporting our wireless gateway. If you rely on us to manage your internet equipment, (modem and router) you are setting yourself up for failure. Number 1, we don't help you if you have your own router; you'll have to get our wireless gateway if you can't fix your router yourself. Number 2, our wireless gateway's are the most worthless pos you could imagine. Don't use our gateway if you want stable internet service. The service centers don't test the gateways before giving them to the next customer. You're probably gonna get one that somebody else returned due to poor performance.

Oh, and I can say that your router probably was shit. If he checked the line signal and it was fine, that means your equipment isn't working. You can try using ours, but as I said it will be hit or miss. Do yourself a favor and learn how to troubleshoot your own stuff, or seek outside technical support from a friend or family member who is not working with you on the clock.

The guy was probably being a dick, but I can say from experience that most of the time when we are assholes to you, it's probably because you are being a difficult customer. I have spoken to 10's of thousands of customers over the past 2 years, and about half of my customers make me want to blow my brains out. When you start getting pissed off, you are not going to get what you want from me. There's only one way a comcast technicion is going to help you, and that's the way comcast says we have to. If you want something besides that, all you're going to get is backlash.

If we can't fix the problem with your internet the first or second time we try, TAKE MATTERS INTO YOUR OWN HANDS. The tech tested the line and it was FINE. That means your equipment sucks ass.

Let me make a recomendation for a modem and router. This is what I'm using right now.

Modem: Motorola SB5101N - docsis 2.0 - these have been around for close to a decade. You can still get them brand new on amazon. Mine is still going strong after 8 years. Most of the newer modems are either ridiculously expensive, or have tons of quality/reliability/longevity issues. If you can't find the sb5101N, the sb5101 or sb5101U will probably have similar reliability. Just a guess.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-SB5101N-Cable-Modem/dp/B009WC6RRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417328442&sr=8-1&keywords=sb5101n

Router: Netgear is an excellent brand. I have the wndr3400 http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-N600-Wi-Fi-Router-WNDR3400/dp/B0041LYY6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417328506&sr=8-1&keywords=wndr3400