(Part 2) Best hdmi cables according to redditors
We found 3,793 Reddit comments discussing the best hdmi cables. We ranked the 973 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I'll just leave this here.
For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.
I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.
It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.
6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For everybody that says this card is overpriced, some info: There are zero cards on the market that will allow you to support six monitors at once that come even close to the performance of this card. Not for $500, not for $5000 (that I can find). Instead, you would need to buy multiple cards to do this. The alternative is to use a display port hub, which limits the resolution of each monitor (such as https://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S?th=1) or use monitors that allow chaining of displayport connections (again, limits the res of each monitor). For users that want full resolution and frequency on their monitors, this alone is worth the premium.
Power Supply:
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Apple/MA407LLAU/
VGA:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Z08KW8C
DVI:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KAM3ICO
HDMI:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YONKZ72
Mouse and keyboard are any USB that you like.
>and a VGA to hdmi cable (wtf right?)
Perhaps this is what you were looking for? /creepy smile
​
|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||
​
Accell UltraAV is VESA certified cable. It also has a lifetime replacement warranty.
1m cable: B142C-003B
2m cable: B142C-007B
3m cable: B142C-010B
You can find more certified cables by searching the product database on displayport.org
http://www.displayport.org/products-database/
It's possible to use a full yoke and throttle setup in VR as well. So you may want to look into this, it really is a completely surreal experience and very enjoyable.
The only downside that you may have is that as far as I'm aware, the Vive (or Oculus) can't render any setups that you may use.. yet. So you're pretty much flying "blind" in terms of the controls.
> Thinking of using TVs, would this be plausible?
Yes but not recommended. The drawbacks are the size, often not very thin bezels, weight & the overall panel quality & resolution is not high enough for when you're sitting that close to your flight sim.
TVs are mostly designed to be around ~10 feet away from you at least, which means that the pixels can be pretty large. A Full HD (1080p) TV at 50" doesn't look that bad when you're far enough away from it. The pixels are pretty huge tho, compared to a normal PC monitor that generally is around 21-24" for 1080p.
TVs also generally don't have other display ports than HDMI, which means you have to buy adapters. Not a big issue, but not that great.
---
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Now a few key points!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $87.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $32.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $39.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.97 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB GAMING X Video Card | $279.99 @ B&H
Case | DIYPC Silence-BK ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $82.62 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.70 @ My Choice Software
Screwdriver| Stanley Magnetic Screwdriver kit| $6.44 @ Amazon
Flash Stick| Kingston 16GB USB 3.0| $5.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $936.15
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |
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Learn about technology in only a couple minutes!
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Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
---
Guides
---
Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
Again not too complicated. But be aware, every motherboard is different. If unsure, check the manual!
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.
Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I'm pretty sure freebullets is correct. See the poor amazon reviews for a similar product. It should be possible with an active converter, but I don't think a regular cable will do it.
Make sure you blast your MIDIs through a high quality HDMI cable like this or this. Otherwise, they will just sound like shit and you also don't want people to think you're poor.
>$50 for a new one
Here's 2 for $12.99
I've been using these ones for years and have never had the end come off.
Here's what I've been using to sucessfully extend the distance between my computer and my vive:
     USB over Ethernet (with a 50ft cat6)
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     50ft Active HDMI
     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Before this I tried using a passive HDMI cable which gave me a red light and blank display on the Vive but everything showed green in SteamVR.
pick yourself up a VGA-to-HDMI or DVI-to-HDMI cable (obviously depends on the kind of ports your computer uses).
power:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WTxdxbG2WKX4D
Usb:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_YGxdxbPW3R45Z
HDMI:https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460784534&sr=8-1&keywords=Monoprice+Commercial+Series+Premium+10ft+24AWG+CL2+High+Speed+HDMI+Cable+Male+to+Female+Extension+-+Black
I used black electrical tape to group the cables together after stretching them out and it works great. I accidentally made the usb to tight and occaisonally it pops out during transportation but rarely so if your going to group them together make sure they have enough slack.
This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.
But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
>Video card must support digital signal output through VGA port function.
Which a lot don't; VGA is defined as an analog signal by spec. HDMI is purely digital. DVI-> VGA converters do exist, but thats because the C pins at the bottom of the DVI grid are analog pins. Some DVI connectors (like Apple's) don't even have those pins, and are thus purely digital, which lands you in the same soup as HDMI.
The only way to get a HDMI -> VGA is to use an active converter which can convert digital<-> analog, like this one.
I ordered one these super cheap ones (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1535523722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00B46XUQU&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1QT5055A0DK0BW9HWJ4P) and it works awesome. PS4, PS3, and 360 all hooked up and working great.
I've successfully created a 10 ft (~2m??) extension beyond the break out box. Total cost was under $50. I have a 3.2m x 3.5m or so area and I have more than enough space. One thing I'd note is that the HDMI cable extension is HEAVY/THICK. After I put all the extension cables through the mesh casing, it makes the cable paclage very rigid. Still, this works flawlessly for me! Links to amazon below...
HDMI: Monoprice Commercial Series Premium 10ft 24AWG CL2 High Speed HDMI Cable Male to Female Extension - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C4SECG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a4HxbGN1CTQG
USB: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Qb4Hxb1AHSCGS
DC Power: Hanvex HDCA12 12 ft 1.3mm DC Power Extension Cable for Foscam, Agasio, Tenvis, Loftek Wireless IP Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FT9VW0O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_yc4HxbRGNZ5AB
1/2" casing sleeve: 1/2" PET Expandable Braided Sleeving- 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZATN3WI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Md4HxbR1Y7KTX
Warning: wall of text ahead. I'm going to recycle an older comment and make it more specific to your post.
It kind of depends. What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to swing your arms while standing stationary? Do you like simulations, such as racing games or flight/space sims? These actually have an impact on the best headset (HMD) for you. I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey so my comments are based on use of all three.
Oculus Rift:
Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is, in my opinion, a little inferior to the Rift, even if you get a 3rd sensor. However, you can "fake it 'til you make it" on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. The Rift requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, or 4 if you add a 3rd sensor, so that's a lot of requyired ports. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale, though this is something they've overcome with time. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps), limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) MUCH more pronounced "god rays" than the Rift. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. Customer service is ticket-based only and there's no option for phone-based support.
HTC Vive:
The regular Vive is $100 outside your price point. The Vive Pro is more than double so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has significantly better tracking than the Rift unless you get at least a 3rd sensor, and even then there are sometimes issues. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. The Vive offers a better Roomscale experience, in my opinion. Games are purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and YMMV. Not every game works. (Essentially, it tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected, and remaps the buttons to the Vive controller. However, since there are differences between the controller control types, this isn't always perfect.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, however, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3 and one HDMI, and that's it. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB. HTC support is both phone and ticket but is terrible either way. Some people have resorted to public shaming via YouTube/social media. YMMV.
Samsung Odyssey (WMR):
Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (seeing the gridlines between pixels) than other HMDs. This is very nice for more detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims where you have to read a lot of small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't work... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so, realistically, it's just a seated/standing experience. Roomscale is technically possible but severely limited. Also, there are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, which will break tracking. Samsung's phone-based support is usually pretty decent, though I haven't needed it for the HMD yet.
Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:
The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences, so...) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment. IPD stands for interpupilary distance, which is the distance between your eyes. Everyone's eyes are a different distance apart but most WMR manufacturers didn't include this feature to keep costs down. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience. I'd strongly recommend going with one that does. I haven't generally heard good things about any of the other WMR HMDs other than the Samsung Odyssey or the Lenovo Explorer. The others are relatively cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both.
A note about VR graphics:
It really depends on the game. To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can necessitate less comprehensive textures. However, people have done absolutely amazing things with VR to the point that you simply don't notice. A prime example of this is Lone Echo (Oculus only). The visuals are stunning, though I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the incredible story, method of teaching game mechanics, and the pure immersive feeling they pull off. Lone Echo is VR done right, and it feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. That's the game currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. All of that said... you are looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. It's like looking at 1080p on a 70" screen from <4 feet away. You are going to notice the pixels, but you're also going to forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the incredible experiences and other visuals. The only exception to this will be games with lots of detail like flight and space sims. Unfortunately, games like that really need higher res than VR can realistically provide right now. This may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll probably mostly forget about the issue.
Roomscale:
Your roomscale abilities are going to be hampered by your small play area. Generally, the recommended minimum area is roughly 2x2.5 meters, if I remember correctly. Some roomscale games will refuse to launch with such a small area marked off. Others will launch, but you'll be unable to reach some things. Your play area will probably just barely suffice but you might need to "cheat" and mark off a slightly larger are than you actually have. The Vive and Rift both do Roomscale and seated/standing VR. WMR only does seated/standing VR reasonably well and is terrible at roomscale (due to the restricted cable length, not to mention poorer tracking) whenever you are able to make more room for it, and the controllers are much worse.
Cable lengths:
All VR HMD cables are a bit shorter than they could be. You can buy some extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no explicable reason. I've found that this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable work to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend the Rift cameras. If you decide to get both a Vive and a Rift, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs are able to go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.
TL;DR:
At this point, my recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift. If you know you'll get into/stick with VR and can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be in highly-detailed simulators or similar games.
Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these
USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV
Or these
CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ
I have both and they are great batteries.
Extensions that work:
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5
6ft
Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ
6ft
And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.
AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV
I went with good old Amazon basic stuff. Works great , no problems at all
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have the NU8000 and this drove me crazy, too. Two things solved this problem for me:
This is the specific one I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Hope this helps you.
I can confirm that the AmazonBasics USB 3.0 6ft and HDMI 2.0 6ft extension cables work perfectly with my Acer headset and laptop.
Depends on the cable. HDMI 2.0 goes up to 240 Hz.
I tried the one you linked to and it didn't work for me either. This one works fine though: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD1FB4E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Says it's 1.2
I have this. If you were thinking about it, buy it. The only reason you are here is because you are on the fence about ordering it due to the cost. Which is why I got a refurbed one like this instead of a shiny new predator X34. Because monies are not infinite. For most people. Your wallet, and/or wife/significant-other may yell at you, and you may apologize... maybe even return it. But no regrets.
Yes the 144 hz is VERY noticeable if coming from a 60 hz / 75 hz monitor. Yes the colors on the IPS are noticeable better than the TN panel (though TN panel is still fine, meh). Yes G-sync is overpriced, but no screen tearing is pretty neat at lower framerates if you are trying to drive this on anything less than a gtx 1070 (recommend gtx 1080 as the perfect pairing... gtx 1080ti obv better but slightly overkill, unless you really wanted those last 20-30 FPS on AAA titles on ULTRA). Yes, you are wasting the G-sync if you have an AMD gpu, as it will not work with an AMD gpu (that's freesync).
I got a really good panel my first time around, a tiny bit of backlight bleed but no dead pixels. Also a microscopic scratch that I didn't even notice until I had the monitor for 3 months... still no regrets.
Recommend: getting a longer DP cable. The DP cable they send you is really short (1 meter). Get this one, it's one of the few cables that is VESA certified.
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVXVQ?ie=UTF8&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00&amp;th=1.
Don't get one longer than 10 ft, something to do with ... not bandwidth but something or another about signal not doing well after more than 10 ft even on a good cable (ie- won't get 144 hz, or random screen black type issues).
Also recommend: getting a VESA mount arm. The monitor mount adjusts pretty well, has good build quality, but it just screams "look at me, I'm expensive leet gamer gear and could have been returned for several fancy sushi dinners or a nice necklace." Add a janky cheap desk mount, problem solved. Or a nice desk mount, up to you. It's VESA mount compatible.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVXVQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You need 18Gbps cables. Look for that specific spec in the description, then the brand doesn't really matter. Monoprice is gonna be your best value, I.e. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509914782&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=Monoprice+hdr&amp;psc=1
May want to try this 48Gbps one. It's made for Apple TV 4K and solves a host of odd issues.
Not including the length between the Linkbox and the Vive, just the length between the Linkbox and my PC, I'm at 50ft (15m)! I'm using this HDMI cable, this USB&lt;->Ethernet converter and this Ethernet cable at a total of just over $100.
Everything works great except the front camera only works when I skip the Linkbox for USB and plug my Vive's USB right into the extender. You can skip the USB for the Vive and plug it right into the USB&lt;->Ethernet converter and still plug the Linkbox USB right into the converter and everything works great :).
Buy one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the extension cables I use
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Lastly, if you still have issues with 90hz even after buying the HDMI adapter then its probably also a power issue and you will need one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Powered extensions can, Passive ones usually don't.
This limits how far you can extend it (usually max 6-10ft depending on your HMD & GPU).
I use these with no notable issues with my Dell Visor: 6ft. USB Ext. 6ft. HDMI Ext.
Suggest you get a good Ethernet cable to hook up to TV. And some of the following...
For hooking up external hard drives to TV:
UGREEN Micro USB 3.0 Cable USB 3.0 Type A Male to Micro B Cord for Samsung Galaxy S5, Note 3, Camera, Hard Drive and More 1.5ft Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0C4M3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XmB0BbWDV1P80
For sound bar/home theater receiver:
Cable Matters Gold Plated Toslink Digital Optical Audio Cable with Metal Connectors and Braided Jacket 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0099UWHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xoB0BbRBVJDTY
For HDMI cables:
Monoprice 115429 Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, 4K @ 60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, 10ft, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4nB0BbPYT4BVJ
Yeah I’d love it if it was just a cable issue and I may just buy 1 more to test, but I’ve gone through multiple high speed 18gbps cables and purchased these monoprice hdmi cables but the issue still occurs.
A word of caution, I just had to replace a similar Amazon Basic (full disclosure not the one rated for in the wall use) cable because it would not carry the HDR signal from my Apple TV 4K. Replaced with the monoprice version and now all is good. Looks for the words “Premium Certified”.
Link:
Monoprice Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable, HDR, 10ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KZxYzbR242QDT
I had this issue. It turns out it was my hdmi cables. They were older, but still shouldn’t have been a problem I thought. They were 4K ready and all that. Then I bought some monoprice cables off Amazon and the flickering went away. They weren’t that much, maybe 7 bucks a cable. I know I’ll here from someone saying “cables don’t matter mannnnnn”. Whatever, buy one and try it out.
Here’s a link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKK82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I went through like 4 different HDMI cables, very frustrating process but this Belkin cable works flawlessly, they are more expensive but 100% worth it, no static in image or problems what so ever.
Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, Dolby Vision HDR, 2 M/6.ft - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QNrEDbKAXBD3P
Also worth noting that if you are using a soundbar with 4k passthrough, an Apple TV is essentially your only option to get DV content. Xbox one x has this very annoying bug that doesn’t pass through DV when using a soundbar.
Get a 48gbps hdmi cable like linked below. Read the reviews and you’ll find people that had similar issues resolved by it
Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, 4K/Dolby Vision HDR, 2 m/6.6 ft – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qC0yCbV4WHE9A
VGA's maximum resolution is 640x480 and is slowly becoming an artifact. Many "modern" devices ship without VGA ports. I'd advise against using anything-to-VGA. DVI is slightly better in that it supports much higher resolution but you're still left with the issue of audio. HDMI is the way to go, and you can get an HDMI 1.4a cable for just a few dollars from Amazon, Fry's or Microcenter.
Edit: That monitor supports DVI-d only so make sure you get the right HDMI/DVI cable. After looking at the specs of that monitor, it doesn't even support VGA so you'll have to get either an HDMI-to-DVI-d cable or adapter.
Edit 2: further research shows that monitor doesn't have a DVI plug but the manufacturer website says it does. You're going to lose some serious quality and I'm not even sure if HDCP will work but here is an HDMI to VGA cable.
even if he has all 2 HDMIs taken it would cost much less to buy 2-1 or 3-1 HDMI splitter/switcher like this one http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-SWITCHER-SPLITTER-SWITCH-Specification/dp/B0030AZ44O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418251918&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Hdmi+splitter
Hey, this actually looks very similar to this which I purchased from Amazon.com a while back and had to send it back. It did not work on 2 of the inputs. Also it would stop being able to switch the input with the button.
I'd avoid this if possible.
Here you go, since you don't buy "cheap" things http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Coffee-12m-Braided-HDMI/dp/B003CT5KMO/ref=sr_1_28?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372830921&amp;sr=1-28
HDMI + USB + Power + Cable Sleeve = Good extension cable.
I use this setup on the HMD end of the Linkbox with no issues.
thicker HDMI cables mean thicker wire gauge. The thicker the wire, the less resistance. So in this case it will carry a signal better than the thinner one.
I use this 10' one and it is perfect. Thick HDMI cable.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It could be the DisplayPort cable then that's causing your issues. I remember reading someone having a similar issue on /r/AMD at one point and switching cables fixed it.
Did some searching:
There's a couple reviews on that cable that mention it not working with FreeSync, first one that shows up is talking about the XG270HU. The 2m and 3m Accel DP cable are mentioned as functional with FreeSync in several comments.
This comment from d2_ricci might have something useful.
Additionally here's a post from 8 months ago by /u/AMD_Robert talking about DisplayPort cable quality. He also suggests the Accel cables and links to this DisplayPort Compatibility database. - Though a few people in this thread claim that the Cable Matters DP cable is working for them, but none of them discuss it with FreeSync, only two who specifies their monitor has just 1440p144 and the other has a GSync monitor.
What kind of connector is at the monitor end of your cable? Is it HDMI? That would be your problem. You should be using a DisplayPort cable instead.
I have the same MBPR and a ViewSonic monitor very similar to your Dell, and I use it with a mini-DisplayPort to DisplayPort cable. It works beautifully at 60Hz in both Windows (which I primarily use) and macOS.
Here's the cable I'm using. (The 3' version of the cable works fine also; I have both the 3' and 6'.)
I don't have a source handy, but I remember looking into it when I bought this monitor, and it was a known issue that HDMI on a 4K monitor would only support 30Hz with this MBPR, where DisplayPort would support 60Hz.
I use three of these for my three XB271HU monitors. They replaced some cheaper cables that gave me tons of issues.
Accell B142C-010B-2 10ft UltraAV DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable with Locking Latches - 10 Feet (3 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CD1FB4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dfrGyb64KF5SJ
Your best bet is to buy a 10' VESA certified cable from a company like Accell. It's down to the manufacturing tolerance of the individual cable if you want to take a gamble on a 15' Cable Matters/AmazonBasics cable.
I have found a 10 ft display port 1.2 to display port 1.2 cable.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CD1FB4E
I have so many cables lol. I'll test it out and let you know, how it works out.
I ended up putting my PC in the corner with the middle sensor and purchased 3 10ft USB 3.0 extensions and a 10ft HDMI extension.
If curious, here is what I got.
2x USB 3.0 extensions for 2 of the 3 sensors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1x USB 3.0 extension for HMD
https://www.amazon.com/gp/css/order-history?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=nav_nav_orders_first&amp;
1x HDMI extension for HMD (2 pack but I only used 1 of them)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used these every foot of the USB/HDMI cables for the HMD to bind them together.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLRBB8I/
Basically, you plug that box into your GPU, and then plug your monitors into the box. They will all be detected separately. You can scroll down and see they even add some adapters to the mix so you could run a DisplayPort, VGA, and HDMI monitor off of a single plug.
It's possible, you can use one of these
Pretty much most of them: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500700534&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+2.2+cable+4k+hdcp2.2
You should use "High Speed" HDMI cables wherever possible, to get support for HDR and Dolby Vision. The cables don't have to be expensive though. Amazon has them at $9 for a pack of two.
You shouldn't see a difference, unless you're superhuman lol.
And if you're interested, these are the cables that solved my black screen which I ordered back in 2016.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Please explain more how you are trying to hook this up to your monitor. What you set was sort of confusing.
It looks like your monitor should have a DVI-D port (similar in shape to the VGA except it has more pins and is white in color), so you should be able to use one of these cables to hook up your PS4 to the monitor.
Display compatibility depends on your video card, because that's where you plug it in.
According to NewEgg, the video card has two DVI-D ports. No HDMI.
Thus, you should buy a HDMI to DVI-D connector to plug your monitor into your video card. Voila.
Unless of course your monitor has a DVI port. DVI is preferred over HDMI, so go ahead and just buy a regular DVI cable.
PC to TV DVI to HDMI
You can get an hdmi to dvi cable. newer xbox 360s have hdmi, older ones dont.
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-Single-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
That will work just fine with one of these.
You do know VGA-to-HDMI exists? http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W
Unfortunately if VGA is the only option on the laptop you wont' be able to get anything better than VGA quality on the TV. There are cables available but it's not going to magically turn your analog signal into cleaner digital one. You might as well continue running VGA.
The biggest thing here is making sure you are running the highest resolution possible that your TV supports. If it's a 1080p you should be around 1920x1080 or 1280x720 for 720p.
Ah shit, I linked a DVI on accident, the VGA to HDMI that I originaly posted had bad reviews
http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W
VGA to HDMI does work.
"sheepishly"
http://www.amazon.com/Port-HDMI-Pigtail-Switch-Cable/dp/B0030AZ44O/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t
You are better off getting an HDMI switch http://www.amazon.ca/3-Port-Switch-Switcher-Selector-Support/dp/B0030AZ44O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421177587&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+switch
EDIT: with what you want to do would not be viable as you need to convert the digital signal of the HDMI to an analog signal for the rca cable, this would require an converter and not an adapter. Doing this would cause a lag in the video so that the converter can convert the image. definitely not what you want
Coffee HDMI cable, yes that price is for real.
$2200.
> For how much info in on the disk that is a lot cheaper then I thought it would be
I have to register an objection to that (and not just with the typos/misspellings). 1 page is approximately 2 KB of data. At 13,000 pages, we're talking about 25 MB of information. Speaking in terms of value for data purchased, buying this for $10,000 (the price of the current run as opposed to the original 2 or 3 they made which were $25k) is comparable to paying almost $300,000 for a CD.
I'm not saying it doesn't have value, and I think $10,000 for it isn't the most unfair price in the world - in fact, next to this HDMI cable the Rosetta Project disk is probably the most reasonably-priced thing in the history of everything ever - but it's not a value based on how much information is on it, but what that information is and the method in which it's stored. :P
If you check the Wiki for extension, there is the monoprice one.
Also you could go with a HDMI coupler + HDMI cable route. Like this one from monoprice and a quality HDMI cable like this one from Monoprice too.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I/
This is the one I bought and it's working fine for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
My Monoprice 10ft HDMI extender works great! See the wiki, or here.
Depending on your computer placement you might need a usb3 extension cable for one of your sensors, your 3rd sensor you purchased comes with one but I needed a second one for my other sensor due to placments. This is also option but I grabbed a 10ft HDMI and 10FT usb3 extension cable fro my headset as well to help give me better range with more slack. Also some camera mounts for mounting your sensors on the walls helps alot.
For referance these are what I ordered, im in Canada so these are all Canadian links so you may need to find your local equivalent
10ft USB 3 extension cables (I use two of them, one to extend a sensor and oen for my hmd)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
10ft HDMI extension for my hmd
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wall mounts for my sensors
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B072KGHX8X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And because I had a lack of proper USB 3 ports on my computer I needed a PCI to usb 3 expansion card
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ME7454O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am using this Monoprice HDMI extension cable. I know it is 10 feet and you only require 6 feet.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG
I have had luck so far a few months in I extended 10 feet from Link Box to HMD. I'm using this hdmi https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I have them wrapped up in a cable sleeve and taped securely
I purchased these Accell 1.2 cables (will work with your 1070). Doesn't look like Accell has any 1.4 cables at the moment (and you likely won't really need them unless you're running an 8K resolution).
I know it sounds stupid, but your displayport cable might be the issue. Usually a crap cable is thrown with the monitor, and that ends up causing problems. It works for some, i would try the acell displayport cable:http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-010B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVXVQ
Before you jump on that though, perhaps reinstall drivers and do some bechmarks in several games where you hit 60 solid (preferably games that push your gpu).
Also, it might be a v-sync issue where the frames dropped to 30 but didn't tell you. Try playing without it?
I just Bought this one https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-supports-2560x1600/dp/B0098HVXVQ
Many people will tell this is the best, and indeed is a really good one
Here you go, reviews confirm it does 1440p 144hz.
Add me to the list of people recommending the Accell DP cables. This is the one I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-supports-2560x1600/dp/B0098HVXVQ
Wouldn't touch that cable with a 10 foot pole, common junk cable maker without certification. I highly recommend never touching anything made by that company.
This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B143B-007J-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B00A7R9I22/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492992649&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=accell+displayport
^^^^ this is a certified cable, listed in the bottom link
https://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/
https://www.displayport.org/products-database/?products_category%5b%5d=cables-connectors&amp;products_manufacturer=
You will need to purchase a DisplayPort 1.2 to Mini DisplayPort cable separately, since it doesn't come in box.
The glass is the only issue I have. Supposedly removing it is easy, but it's not a big problem to me. People talk about PWM flicker being a problem IIRC, but it looks completely fine to me. (everyone seems to be different about that though)
If you do decide on this, make sure you order a legit DP cable, because the one it came with was trash. I recommend Accell cables.
[Mini DP] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00)
Standard.
And Here's my setup
It can! With an adapter/cable. Mine has been working for ~2 years now. http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B143B-007J-UltraAV-DisplayPort-6-6-Feet/dp/B00A7R9I22
I've had two vives and two 1070's for months. Never had a problem with Display Port. Just make sure you get the correct display port to mini display port cable.
Can be found here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Found the above cable recommended on here. I got it and it's worked perfectly from day one.
I'm going to guess that you're using a DisplayPort cable. If you are, then that's the culprit.
DP cables have really low tolerances. If they're low quality or overly long then you'll have issues at high resolutions/refresh rates. They're also incredibly susceptible to EMI. Try not to go above 1.8/2M long and use a reputable manufacturer. Accell do a really good value one. I own one of their three metre cables and it handles 144hz at 2560x1440 with no problems at all.
Going over a 2 meter displayport cable is a bad idea. There's a very good reason a 2 meter cable is included. Long displayport 1.2 cables can result in black-outs, flickering and other such issues. Such issues are quite common with ultra high end monitors due to high framerate and adaptive-sync tech using so much bandwidth. I'd expect the same bandwidth limitations for a Vive Pro. The displayport standard lists a maximum cable length of 3 meters. Just because you can buy longer cables doesn't mean its a good idea.
If you don't mind trying it, spend the money on a longer but i'd not go any longer than 10ft and i'd use this https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B00CD1FB4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526060892&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=accell+displayport+1.2+10ft
Waiting for the vive wireless accessory is probably going to be the best choice. HTC officially announced that it will be released "Summer 2018" just last week.
This could be unrelated, but I had a similar problem recently so maybe this will help. I upgraded to a displayport monitor last year. No problems for many months. Suddenly one day I boot up the pc and nothing displays on my displayport monitor. Same as you: "no signal detected." Tried unplugging and reseating the display port cable multiple times. Flipped it around. Used different displayport ports on the gpu. Nothing worked. This first cable was 25 feet and some supposedly "weird" brand, so I did research and ordered another, shorter cable from a highly rated brand with "official displayport symbols" or whatever. Still didn't work.
Research, research, research. Come across some forum post and they suggest unplugging the power cable from the monitor, giving it like 30 seconds, and reseating it. Monitor boots up just fine, both cables work, no problems. I have no idea the rational behind it, but I guess occasionally a monitor needs to be completely disconnected from a power cable and reconnected?
Just for reference, the first, 25' cable I had was this
and the second, shorter cable was this
And both work fine after reseating the power. Hope this helps.
Nice, I just bought this HDMI extender and it DOESN'T work. Just an FYI for anyone interested. http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I am using this HDMI
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HIEtzb056BQ0Y
And this usb and it works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJEtzbMCAYRC0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These are what I use to extend my headset cables.
Gotta put it in the DVI port by all accounts to make it work and keep working.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sorry that some are just available in 2 packs, but it's cheap and it works. Turns out I was misremembering. It was 10 feet extension and not 6, heh. I pulled these links from my amazon order history.
So real quick. I have experimented a lot.... Here is what is working for me:
So I bought the inatek KTU3FR-502I pci-express card to go along with Asus Maxiumus VI Formula motherboard. Use the default windows drivers that install when the card is put into the system. DO NOT USE THE latest drivers until you test it first with the defaults. I had nothing but issues with the latest until going back to the windows drivers and now it's much better. Oculus will give a warning about not having the latest drivers just ignore it.
Then I switched to 2 of these cards just as an experiment.
I also have tried 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 with success. For this card you need a PCI-Express x4 slot to install it. I have two of these working just great with the default drivers. I have just installed them today and need to test more to make sure no issues crop up but so far everything is just working with no disconnects. The idea behind this USB 3.1 card versus the USB 3.0 card is that USB 3.1 is 10 Gbps versus USB 3.0's 5 Gbps. So now with the ORICO usb 3.1 cards I have 2 sensors plugged into one card and 1 sensor and the HMD plugged into the other card. Again currently I am using the default windows drivers and everything seems great. If I start getting disconnects I will try their latest drivers.
The idea behind these add-on USB cards is to make sure you are getting adequate power through the USB ports and eliminating cheaply implemented motherboard ports that often have severe bandwidth limitation since motherboard USB ports all tend to share the same bandwidth.
2 Sensors are attached to the ORICO add-on card with CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
as far as I can tell these are the same thing as: Monoprice 109279 that are recommended on the wiki. One of these two is in the FRONT RIGHT of my room and the other is in the LEFT REAR. The third sensor is not using an extension and is attached the ORICO card USB 3.1 port and is in the FRONT LEFT corner of my room.
The HMD is also attached to one of the ORICO USB 3.1 ports with a Ultra Clarity Cables HDMI Extension Cable 10 FT Ultra Clarity 4K HDMI Extender 2.0 with Ethernet ( 10 FEET ) M / F Port Saver Cables Braided Cord - Support 3D & Audio Return Channel - Latest Version.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and to extend the USB of the HMD I am using AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So sorry for the long post but I wanted to share my experience and what works for me. Hopefully it will work for you.
There were battery packs posted on here back when the Vive first came out but I don't use them. I ask for two outlets but if not available I have a 75ft extension cord and a 30ft one. I'll run the 30ft from an outlet to a power strip that runs the computer and one light house, then the 75ft one from that power strip to the LH in the opposite corner. I've never had an issue with that.
I have two STANDS with two MOUNTS for the LH units to sit on. I used the mounts and power adapters in the box for my home setup and bought 2 x POWER ADAPTERS and 2 x POWER EXTENDERS to run the LH from on the road. These both live in the front pocket of my MONITOR BAG while I am home.
I also bought ONE, EACH, OF THESE to give me some wiggle room on bigger setups too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Those extensions are perfect on my setup, looking at my order I actually got the 10 feet cables.
edit: woops, my bad, missed the DP hub!
You're sure this is not just a splitter? I mean it won't just duplicate displays, right, and actually handle 3 monitors? Sorry if it is a dumb question, I don't know this part, only DVI splitters (which are shitty as they only allow duplicate display).
Edit again, this description answered my question, considering the GPU has DP 1.2 ports:
>Perfect for spanning a spreadsheet/worksheet across all three displays, to avoid side-scrolling
Looks like it kinda rocks then!
StarTech.com 3 Port DisplayPort MST Hub - 4K 30Hz - DisplayPort to DisplayPort Multi Monitor Splitter for 3 DP Monitor Setup (MSTDP123DP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLRBB8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lHmGDb1QSRV29
If the monitors are only 1080p, a single display-port has more than enough bandwidth to drive 3. You could try something like this however reviews seem mixed and your millage may very, it's also pretty pricey.
You could use DisplayPort hubs like this or get another GPU.
This kind of information is always a pain to get. Most of the time it's either hidden in some PDF somewhere or not really existent at all. That's why you are so hard pressed to find a direct answer.
If you look at this Nvidia page, they list the max as 4.
But if the problem is actually there just being 4 clock signals and not an artificial limit, you might be able to drive all 3 of those 1080 monitors using a single Displayport 1.2 MST Hub (~100€) though. If you go this route then please report back with your results!
Your other options are using an integrated GPU or to just buy an additional card.
I use this one (with a DisplayPort to mini DisplayPort adapter, though I believe there's now a model of this one that goes to mini DisplayPort directly) with two 27" Dell monitors and it works fine. They go into the box and then the single connector goes into my Surface. It's worked with both a Surface Pro 2 and a Pro 3.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JLRBB8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Yes, as it has a DisplayPort.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S
Ah - I hadn't considered putting them horizontally, I had pictured you doing a 2x2 screen setup.
I understand not wanting the laptop screen.
You mentioned very long horizontal screens. They exist, from several manufacturers. Whereas Mac laptop screens are usually in a 16:10 ratio (width:height), these are in 21:9, which is what cinemas use.
Some examples are the ASUS MX299Q, LG 25UM65, LG 34UM65, Dell U2913WM. That's just what came up from a quick search of "Ultra wide monitor" on Amazon. They're in some different sizes, but usually ultrawides are 2560x1080 in resolution.
I'm not sure if that's enough to fit all four decks on.
You could do two ultrawides, which should be more than enough. I think some software will let you divide a panel into two separate virtual displays, if that makes managing the decks easier.
Which Mac are you using? I'm guessing it's probably a MacBook Air or a non-retina pro, since you don't mention HDMI.
If you decide to opt for more than one display, it is possible to run multiple off just one displayport connection. You'll need a displayport hub, but make sure it's not just a splitter, but one that lets you run multi monitor. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-DisplayPort-Triple-Multi-Monitor/dp/B00JLRBC7S/
EVGA makes a displayport splitter that's quite popular and reliable as well.
What resolution are we talking about? You could hook-up three 3-way splitters https://www.amazon.co.uk/DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter-3-Port/dp/B00JLRBC7S?th=1 to connect 9 independent monitors to your 1080ti.
I run the latest debian stable, and I'm using two 1920x1080 monitors with displayport. I've had to buy an MST splitter, since none of my monitors had a displayport out to daisychain. I got this one from startech
The p27h seems to have a displayport out, so you shouldn't need this splitter.
I've had no problems whatsoever to configure it, worked in a plug-and-play way. Both Debian and Windows 10 support Multistream displayport just fine.
I have a little bit to add to this conversation. When docked and using 2 single MDP->HDMI adapters 1 into dock and 1 into SP3 I never experienced this issue. I thought I'd be smart and get a 3 port startech adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452608223&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mstmdp123dp
Now I am seeing the same issue as you plus sometimes it just refuses to wake up and I have to hold the power button down to get it off completely.
Docking and undocking doesn't seem to work as well as it did prior with the individual adapters either. I keep using the startech in hopes that an update will come and resolve these issues.
What your looking for is Mosaic by NVIDIA and their Mid-tier NVS card. Just a few quality Mini-DP to HDMI cables set up the mosaic and it should be good to go. I personally run the NVS 810 on my home computer but I'm a freak and like having 8 displays.
Yeah, no worries.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y34K4CY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p5k2DbS6P43SA
You would just plug the receiver(s) for the mouse and keyboard into the KVM. So whichever computer is active, has the input from the mouse and keyboard passed to it 👍
To plug the Mac in, you need a mini DP adapter or cable (same connector as TB2 which is what your Mac uses for display out)
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jal2DbYDAV33M
AmazonBasics 6 feet, 2 pack $4.51:
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496069294&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=amazonbasics%2Bhdmi%2Bcable&amp;th=1
You could try Amazon Basic HDMI High-Speed cables. I almost jumped on them but then luckily my 3rd set of Monoprice cables worked.
link: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480746054&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+hdmi+2.0+cable
What wires depends on what you get.
You're not going to find what you're looking for in the $100 range. I'm not trying to be difficult just frank with you. If this is for a main viewing area I would suggest you get away from a mini amp. It's just the wrong product for the job IMO.
I would just step up to an AVR and be done with it. I don't do used recommendation but that is a route you can take. If you want the lowest cost AVR I here is what I would look at.
So this and the Miccas with wire $100 a few HDMI cables $12 and you should be in business. Run your sources into the AVR then the HDMI output to the TV. I would also consider stands to get the speakers off the TV stand. You'll get better imaging and overall sound.
I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.
Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you need to extend it further then 2 meter you might need a repeater or two "active" cables, depending on cable quality and your hardware. Below that you might get away with just two regular extension cables. If you don't need more I would recommend trying that as it is the cheapest option.
I have extended mine about 5m using the below setup:
- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Type-Male-Cable-Black/dp/B01KXAZNEE/
- https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8T8FC/
- https://www.vive.com/eu/accessory/link-box/
...then you need an power adapter for the link box as it comes without!
The HTC link box works perfectly for Oculus also!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/
This one works (I have this) but it's only 15 feet (if that's any good to you).
It's on the UK store but I'm sure you could get it too as it's from the Amazon Basics range.
EDIT: Just noticed they do a 25ft one now as well. I'm sure it wasn't there before :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/
That is the one I'm using. Probably the cheapest available too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004V74BIU/
USB extension if you need it.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HYXQK3C/
Power extension for the base stations.
For every 5m of cable you should use another link box (extension box). I have the business edition which came with an extra link box. Can run 5m cables to the link box, 5m cables to another link box, then the 3 in 1 to the headset.
Currently am running the Vive in a spare bedroom next to our office. Have 0 issues with the setup.
Edit: The cables I am using:
HDMI
USB
You might need an active active cable to push above 15-20 feet, they are pretty pricey but should do the trick for you.
Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
This one is certified at 18Gbp up to 50 feet, which will handle any device. If you need more than 50 feet, it gets a little more complicated.
For USB, any usb over ethernet adapters should work.
If you want 50ft HDMI I can confirm that this cable works perfectly, camera turned on and everything, for only a couple bucks more than the OP's cable. I'm using this extender for linkbox power and two of these extenders for the lighthouses.
It really is nice to move your setup to a much bigger play space, and being able to extend so far is really handy.
Running balanced cables for audio can get you more distance than you need. You can run usb over network cables with inexpensive adapters. Not super familiar with video cable lengths though. If you're just doing audio editing, keep your interface in the same room with the pc and run balanced audio to your speakers at your work station. there should be no latency. For video, I've had success with THESE 50' active hdmi cables for running to a monitor in a similar situation.
Monoprice Luxe Series Active High Speed HDMI Cable, 4K @ 60Hz, 18Gbps, 24AWG, YUV 4:2:0, CL3, 50ft, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186DNFLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aUH-BbNSDVFGK
There may be tutorials I don't know. It is quite simple. In my case of 50 feet length. Get those extenders, get a 50 foot HDMI (I got a monoprice one off of amazon), make or buy a 50 foot Ethernet cable.
Hook the headset into the linkbox like normal.
Connect the link box to your PC with the 50 foot HDMI.
Connect the USB that comes with the extender from the linkbox to the extender.
Connect the Ethernet cable from one (near your linkbox) extender to the other (near your PC).
Connect the extender near your PC to your PC using the cable that comes with the extender.
You will need power for the extender by the linkbox, which comes with the extender.
That's about it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZHQDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Great thread and thanks for sharing! I'm ordering some of what you listed.. :)
Here is what I have already purchased and am using:
Mini tripods for the base stations as I haven't set them up permanently yet:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I1KQQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wireless headset so I don't have to deal with the audio cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZC3S72I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Active HDMI cable as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Active USB 2.0 cable again as I'm running off my PC from the bedroom in my livingroom:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PLLA9U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also just ordered a set of 7' tripods for mounting the base stations:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.
Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet
IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over
Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable
Edit: Total price is just over $100
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable--Male--Female/dp/B00NH136GE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475001485&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=usb+extension
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Speed-Extension-Cable-Female/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475001647&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+extension&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_89%3AAmazonBasics
Those would be a hell of a lot cheaper and you can order them immediately.
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RWATK2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm using AmazonBasics HDMI extension cable (the 15ft one) and it's working good. No problems so far. Maybe you can give it a try: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=twister_B01MG4DIDO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;th=1
DC Power Extension
HDMI Extension
USB Extension
If it helps you at all, I ordered a 6' AmazonBasics HDMI extension and a 6' AmazonBasics USB 3 extension and tried them last night and they work absolutely fine. I can literally walk anywhere in my room now and I didn't even have to move my PC :)
I also really like how these should now act as a quick release so if my kids were to pull on the cables too far or something, it should come apart there instead of pulling on my PC. Here are the links to the ones I ordered...
HDMI: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH134L6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You just gotta make sure they are 18Gbps, such as the Monoprice one.
Very well could be your HDMI cable. Get one of these and it very well may solve your problems!
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Something like this would be great:
Speakers
Recommended Receiver or Budget Reciever
Speaker Wire
HDMI
Did the same, I got this cable from amazon and ran it from the receiver to the C9. MonoPrice HDMI https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKK82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I needed another one to go from my ATV4k to my receiver. Went to menards and picked up a RCA 6 ft HDMI 4k rated to 18gbs. So far everything looks great.
I have the 65 inch model of this Sony model and I'm very happy with it but I'm still somewhat confused with the HDMI ports capabilities. Like you, I was informed that I wouldn't be able to run HDR content via ports 1 or 4 but as of right now I have my standard (not Pro) PS4 connected to HDMI 4 and I'm running Got of War in HDR10, which I didn't think I would be able to do. So, it is confusing.
Also, I was having issues with my Apple 4K TV once I switched it to Dolby Vision output (via HDMI 2). The screen flicked on and off continually. I tried various fixes without success so ended up buying new HDMI leads (the ones I already had were good quality). After doing some research I purchased two of these (10 feet) ... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKK82/ ... and (touch wood!) haven't had an issue since, with a perfect picture.
One other issue I am having is that the TV states that its software is up-to-date (it's running Android 7) yet I know that Android 8 is available for it. Strange and I'm not the only owner who has experienced this issue. I am considering doing a manual update via USB but would rather have the television do it automatically.
All that said, I am more than happy with my purchase. It is a superb piece of entertainment equipment.
Thanks for the advice. Would a USB-C HDMI work in place of Chromecast?
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A $24 for a cable that does it.
I mean a USB to HDMI cable on amazon (way cheaper than retail) cost 20, the connector also powers the device so while 90 is probably on the high end of pricing the device itself isn't as cheap as what you may thing
So far I've tried
CHOETECH (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/)
&
Insignia (https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-usb-type-c-to-hdmi-adapter-white/4480802.p?skuId=4480802)
The bestbuy "Insignia" brand does the job, however over the course of a week and using it for 4-5 hours a day, I had about 5-6 random "HDMI DISCONNECTED" messages.
The CHOETECH one I've been using since the 7th has yet to have that issue for me. So maybe try going with one that includes that actual HDMI cord and not just and adapter for better results. 🤷♂️
Sorry you're having problems with it. I just wanted to let you know it's possible. I've been connecting my V30 to my TV for a couple of months without issue. I've been using a cable like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-Premium-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X
I use this one
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Premium-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B075N83B9X&amp;pd_rd_r=3E2J0NDJCPTVTS3J7839&amp;pd_rd_w=4gjFt&amp;pd_rd_wg=K327R&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile&amp;pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_p=bae06c46-10d4-40c8-a051-bc92968df619&amp;pf_rd_r=3E2J0NDJCPTVTS3J7839&amp;pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-2&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;ppw=fresh
Here’s the link from amazon, but I bought it from the Apple Store
Sure, here my details:
I also noticed that the the issue happens a bit less with the new HDMI 2.1 cable, but still happens randomly after resuming the console from standby and launching an HDR content...
In a similar situation, I bought this 50 ft. Monoprice HDMI because it was the only one I could find that stated it was 4k @ 60 Hz. Been using it for the past 2 weeks and its pretty solid and I don't seem to be experiencing any signal degradation.
It has a disclaimer at the bottom that says any cable longer than 50 ft will be displayed at 24 hz but i don't know if that was only true for the brand or for all HDMI cables. I tried researching it but didn't really find an answer (but also wasn't really looking that hard either)
Depending on your layout you could try route it through a wall to decrease the distance it needs to travel.
I have a different USB 3.0 50 ft and a different HDMI 50 ft from amazon and they work fine.
HDMI - http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
USB - http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00DMFFL2W?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Totally fine with this setup. Camera on, etc.
So, have u foxed that issue? I've got this two cables and my setup does not work.
http://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-Active-Speed-Premium-Cable/dp/B0186DNFLI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
http://smile.amazon.com/FLAT-Cable-HDMI-Bandwidth-Connector/dp/B00SI1J8JM?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
Yep. Sounds like the hub is being overloaded. I don't use a USB hub at all but I do use a good quality extension cable, this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I plug one end directly into a USB 2.0 port on my PC and plug the breakout box into the other end. I use this HDMI cable going from my video card to the back of the breakout box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(Must be active like this cable)
Zero issues with this setup and I have my Vive connected from my office computer to my living room.
I use this 50ft HDMI cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0186DNFLI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this 50ft USB cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040IG1A6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It comes with a HDMI and USB 3.0 permanently connected to it. If you're wanting extenders, I bought these off Amazon
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 6 Feet (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014RWATK2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And I use this Bluetooth adapter Microsoft reccomends
Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Keep in mind you'll also need a USB 3.0 port. They're colored blue. The HMD also plugs into this, in addition to the HDMI.
Get something like this and move it from behind the tv.
This might improve the received signal.
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LLj7Cb4S2T216
You can get HDMI and USB 3.0 cable extensions that review well to work with WMR headsets, unless it's the overall weight you're worried about, in which case some hang it from the ceiling in retractable pulley system.
These are the cables I used:
USB 3.0 6ft
AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 6 Feet (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B014RWATK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_UYbuUqoxVgzKd
Hdmi 2.0 6ft
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WLGiupVmXTRSX
I got these two from Amazon and they work great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
From reading up on other posts, It looks like the amazon basics 6' USB extension cable works best. some have had luck with 10' cables, but some report issues. If you want to go further, you need to get an active connector which are much more expensive. Also, USB needs to be 3.0 and SuperSpeed. The thicker the better for shielding IMHO. The HDMI extension just needs to be rated HDMI 2.0 or higher. I don't think it's as big of a pain as the USB
Here's what I got, arrives Thursday
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H90L4
In my paranoia, I bought 6ft and 10ft versions of both, as it depends on your motherboard, BIOS settings, PSU, etc. 6ft is a standard I would expect most setups to work with. Here are the recommended products that I've seen posted around:
USB
HDMI
Have you tried swapping HDMI cables? If you have a spare, try replacing one run at a time, and see if there's any improvement. Doesn't have to be fancy; an AmazonBasics or Monoprice cable ought to be fine.
You mention a basement - How long are your HDMI cable runs? Are you using active cables? Some people run into issues with those.
Also: Have you tried using different HDMI ports on the TV? It could be that one particular port is causing issues.
So my whole installation process was the first diy project I ever did. If you knew me, you'd know if I can do it, you can do it.
Issues I had: studs closer than expected (and metal), tons of insulation I had to rip out, cable connecting.
Studs closer together - I think universal standard is 16" apart where these were like 8 or 9. So when you get the powerbridge soundbar unit, you will notice it's like 11 or 12" long. Fortunately the main plug area is relatively small and the rest is to hold slack for cables. If you have the space, I highly suggest utilizing the whole piece. I had to tuck cable into the wall vertically to make it work after sawing off a big chunk to get it to fit.
Insulation - not everyone will have this issue. My wall was packed with this stuff and when it came time to fish the cables through the wall, it was a pain in the ass. I kept thinking i got it all only to find myself hitting more of it.
Cable connecting - this part was relatively easy and the issue I had is basically the insulation.
Just make sure that your top outlet (behind tv), mid outlet (soundbar) and bottom outlet (power) are all aligned vertically or close to it so you're within the same two studs. Other than that, it's pretty easy.
I do want to give a tip that will save you a headache in the long run and this cannot be overstated: IF you plan on using Apple TV 4k, arguably the best box for 4k content, with your OLED TV and you plan to mount your tv, go to Amazon and get this cable Monoprice 115429 Certified... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKK82?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I know many people say HDMI cables are all the same. They're not. That logic applied to old HDMI cables. New ones are designed for 4k which requires a lot more bandwidth. Also when you run through the wall, you're bound to encounter interference.
We had a great HDMI cable but because it was old, the frequency would get distorted and the tv would flicker before going black. It's a known issue. If you Google it, you'll find many people with the issue.
At the time I installed, one cable proved to work but the largest one was 6ft. I needed 10ft. This cable came out shortly after. I read reviews and people who had same issue ordered this. We took tv off, fished the new cable down, plugged it all in, and we haven't had an issue since. I can't recommend this cable enough. It fucking sucks having to turn off Apple TV blind because of no picture and turning it off again. This would happen several times a day for weeks.
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484609737&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi
will be common place to just use these
That laptop has a USB 3.1 Type C connection. Typically those also output digital video. That would be much more suitable than finding a USB-A with active circuitry.
I can't guarantee it, but I think something like these provides what you're looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MOKiN-Macbook-Chromebook-Gold-Plated/dp/B06ZYKQDC4/
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Macbook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Samsung-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A
YOU MIGHT need thunderbolt not too sure chek if it is USB 3.1 then it may work dont take my word for it!
Not sure but maybe this might work if you plug it in to a monitorEdit: scrap that. According to this thread, pixels don't support HDMI output.
Hmm, I just tried opening one of the product results and some mention that:
> . . .cable does not allow USB-C smartphones (Except Samsung Galaxy S8 or S8 Plus)or tablets to connect to a HDMI-enabled display, for example lumia . . .
> Lumia 950/950XL(Display Resolution Support Max.: 720p)
***
So is there a concrete way to identify which C to HDMI cables work? Also Im confused as to what resolution support Continuum scales up to?
No, USB C to HDMI adapter. https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A
USB-B? That's never come on a laptop as far as I know. Does it happen to look like this? If so, that's a mini DisplayPort which would be a perfect solution for another display output. If you have USB-C, there's certainly a chance that you could do display out that way. You'd have to look at the specs for your machine to see what it supports. You'd just be able to use a dongle like this to make that work out.
Worst case scenario, you could get something like this dock here. That display out is done at a software level, so once you connect via USB 3.0 you'd have your display out and some extra USB ports to plug other things into (and since you'd need at least one extra port to plug your Rift since the dock would take up 1/3 of your USB ports, this would work out). I'm not entirely sure just how much CPU resources that would use, so keep that in mind if the CPU on your laptop is on the lower end, but it is another option to keep in your back pocket at least.
Im sure someone tested a USB C to HDMI Cable and it didn't work otherwise there would have been a lot of news saying it's possible
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-ChromeBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A
I'm thinking about getting a monitor to hook up my Dell XPS 13 to. Which one should I get? I was looking for monitors sub $150, and these four are what I've found so far:
Acer R240HY
ASUS VX228H
HP Pavillion 22CWA
ASUS VS228H-P
My thoughts about the monitors: I like the VX228H for dual HDMI (it'd be nice to be able to switch between laptop and switch without unplugging and switching cables from the monitor every time, but not having it isn't a dealbreaker), the Acer and HP both look nice too (I like me some small bezels), and the VS228H-P I'm not too sure about.
I plan on using this monitor for general use, slight gaming, and with the switch, so nothing too crazy.
ALSO, to connect the laptop to the monitor, do I have to buy this USB C to HDMI cable to connect the two? Or is there another, better way? Thanks!
the last 2 LG phones I've had have had mini HDMI output, you have to buy the cable separately though
look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYS3Q5A
>The previous MBP could easily connect to most.
How did it connect? A thunderbolt to HDMI cable perhaps? Gee this will be impossible with the new macbook... oh wait?
Please show me a USB drive that doesn't work with USB-C... ill wait.
Yes youre right USB sticks are super useful. If only there was an option for USB-C
This might work, but I'm not sure if the 6P is compatible with it.
Edit: It looks like it doesn't, and the 6P doesn't support video output. Source
If you don't need 4k @ 60Hz, this one will work [Link] (https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482888676&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+cable)
I’m not sure. On paper it looks ok. This is the one I got (on suggestion form someone here) that improved it for me.
4K HDMI Cable 6 ft - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return(ARC) for UHD TV, Blu-ray Player, Xbox, PS4/3, PC, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_55cKAb0VQMCEJ
My monitor has HDMI, VGA, and DVI-D and graphics card has 3 DP's and 1 HDMI and it is very important for me to have 144hz.
First I tried this HDMI 2.0 Cable I don't understand why so then I tried this DP to HDMI Cable and I still got 60hz and I got really upset and angry so I bought this 140$ adapter and I'm still getting black-outs randomly! I think I'll just sell all this stuff, my monitor and adapter and just buy a new monitor. Just mad I didn't do enough research before buying stuff. Thanks for the reply bro.
I was having screen tearing issues with hdr I bought this cable and haven't had a problem since
4K HDMI Cable 6 ft - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return(ARC) for UHD TV, Blu-ray Player, Xbox, PS4/3, PC, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
4K HDMI Cable 6 ft - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return(ARC) Compatible UHD TV, Blu-ray, Xbox, PS4/3, PC, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uh0-BbC6AFMX1 here is an example. Don't know if this one is any good but it's an example.
These have worked great for me: Atevon.
link
This is an HDMI cable that runs 4k @60hz, 1440p @144hz, or 1080p @240hz
I do believe only certain TVs/monitors support it
Edit: I’m pretty sure as long as the screen supports the refresh rate then it’ll work
Yeah, I forced it to stay on 2160p - yuv420.
I've also tried 2160p rgb but that didn't make a difference (also someone said that wasn't true HD).
Although playstation blames Samsung for it, my 4k chromecast device doesn't do this.
I've tried the default ps4 cable and I've tried a brand new one guaranteed to work. Which I bought here: 4K HDMI Cable 6 ft - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return(ARC) for UHD TV, Blu-ray Player, Xbox, PS4/3, PC, Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IbzNAb2471NMR
I now notice it says hdmi 2.0 instead of 2.1 but like I said I did try the cable that came with the playstation as well (currently it doesn't reach my TV)
Also, to get 4k to work, I had to go to settings on my TV and turn hdr+ mode on
There are different kinds of HDMI cords. You can fine a good one for a 144hz monitor here
Sorry for the late reply, but here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJQMCK/
**
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N343SBS/
***
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVTQY8D/
*****
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RXNVNLM/
****
optional
3.5mm extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GZQWIWG/
***
For the speakers
I use these because they are very high quality for a low price. There is a volume controller on the side of one speaker, and it comes with a subwoofer.
Creative A250 2.1 Speakers
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1197124-REG/creative_labs_51mf0420aa002_a250_2_1_speaker_system.html
**
Tips and reminders:
This is the cable that worked for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N343SBS/
I'd be interested to know if that works for you too - I'm still shaking my head since in the past I've never noticed any difference in "cheap" AV cables vs. "super" ones. But I guess 4K + HDR is pushing so much bandwidth down the wire that it does start to make a difference with basic performance, not just more subtle stuff.
Using this cable from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N343SBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm at 4K 59.940. on Dolby. These are the cables i'm using: Amazon
I actually fixed the issue by swapping my Amazon basics hdmi cable for the Belkin hdmi cable. Here’s a link to it on amazon,
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=belkin+hdmi+4k+ultra+hd+cable&amp;qid=1562804254&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=belkin+hdmi&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
Let me know if this fixes your problem like mine.
Yes, HDMI 2.0, 18gbps (minimum)
These are the ones I use and are probably the best ones you can buy.
Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable, Optimal Viewing for Apple TV and Apple TV 4K, 4K/Dolby Vision HDR, 2 m/6.6 ft - Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qbRADb89SG45N
This one’s not cheap, but it works for the couple of 4K devices I’ve thrown at it, to the top standards. I’ve had others that didn’t work and I’d rather pay for it to work. Done with experimenting.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Ultra-Optimal-Viewing-Vision/dp/B075N83B9X
It's entirely possible you're right. I've been out of the Home Theater game since 2015 or so and perfectly happy with my 1080p/7.1 setup. I didnt ever think cables mattered and always just ran monoprice cables. And now I was getting all these issues and I found that cable when I was searching/complaining online about my TV not passing the dolby vision test. This is that cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=belkin+48gbps+hdmi+cable&amp;qid=1567537592&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
They sell this cable at the Apple Store and Apple's website and its supposed to be the 'de facto' cable for people having Dolby Vision issues. its supposedly rated at 48gbps. Its possible that the cable is a lemon, its too late to return them, but I suppose I could swap them out to see if that changes anything.
I've asked about my problem on this and other forums, and everyone is chiming in with a recommendation for a cable that will 'definitely work', so idk, maybe I have to keep trying till it gets resolved. I sort of wish there was a sticky for 'tried and true cables' that work for different brands.
I just bought this cable, it'll be here tomorrow, I'll let you know if it indeed snake oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-Vision-Optimal-Viewing/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541052607&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=belkin+ultra+high+speed+4k+hdmi+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31UyAGKPVCL&amp;ref=plSrch
Thank you very much for the thorough answer.
So, Goobay, PureLink or Belkin, right? What I found odd is that, looking at the Goobay cable's specs, it says that all versions support YCbCr 4:4:2 and 4:4:4, but only the premium one supports 4:2:0.
I believe my TV has a 8 bit panel, but supports 10 bit HDR, something like that. Anyway, it's an entry model, so I'll stick to 8 bit.
Do you have any other 4K HDR sources you can test with? It could be the cable. 4K HDR signals at 60 Hz require a lot of bandwidth – right at the upper limit of what can be sent over a high speed HDMI cable. The symptoms you’re describing may indicate that the cable is too long or not quite up to spec. You don’t have to spend a ton of money on solid gold cables; an Amazon Basics high speed HDMI cable should be perfect. If you really want to future proof, you can grab a Belkin ultra high speed cable.
The TV works fine with AppleTV and native LG HDR TV apps. When I turn HDR on in Windows 10, the TV reports a HDR flag, but it looks washed out with the BT.2020 colour space.
Edit: I did have a bog standard HDMI cable, but as luck would have it I had one of these lying around spare:
https://www.amazon.es/Belkin-AV10175bt2M-BLK-velocidad-compatible-Vision/dp/B075N83B9X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526836394&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=belkin%2Bhdmi&amp;th=1
Plugged it in and no difference in behaviour.
2nd Edit: Ok I managed to get 8bit/10bit/12bit options in the driver by lowering the refresh rate (went from 60Hz down to 24Hz), but it still looks washed out. DXDiag says HDR is supported. Cyberlink's advisor tool says it is not.
got it re : refresh rate.. I will move the refresh rate to 30 hz.
AVR : Denoon X4500H : http://manuals.denon.com/AVRX4500H/EU/EN/DRDZSYzvebvotm.php
HDMI Cable (both PC--> AVR and AVR --> TV): Belkin 4K : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N83B9X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so HDMI does support it
&#x200B;
Looking at the denon, I am realizing that i have set it to standard .. so I will set it to Enhanced. I am assuming that i should keep the HDR setting in Windows 10 switched off.
&#x200B;
Side note: I dream of the day when all this is plug and play - SOME DAY
I appreciate the cable change recommendation but I have gone through 3 types of cables including the Vizio OEM cable, AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable (18Gbps), and finally the Belkin Ultra HD High Speed HDMI Cable (48Gbps). If a 48Gbps cable (at 3x the price) that supports the latest standard HDMI 2.1 (4K/120Hz and 8K/60Hz) can't do 4K/60Hz then it can't be a cable/bandwidth issue.
Correct. In your original post, you state that your Thinkpad has an HDMI output. That means that you'd connect your Thinkpad to the Splitter linked above via HDMI.
From there, you would purchase two HDMI to DVI-D Cables, similar to these, and connect them to your two monitors that have DVI-D inputs. As mentioned by /u/Gimpyistaken, this will only duplicate video.
http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TH7T2U
You can get it done by connecting the laptop and the monitor with any of the above.
There are a plethora of HDMI to DVI-D cables on Amazon that you can choose from. Pretty much anything like this cable will do.
Well, I'm going to assume you want a standard 20 inch or so lcd monitor, which typically have hdmi or dvi, and a vga.
So you won't buy a graphics card because it would require you to buy a 6 dollar adapter? Case in point: https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
HDMI and DVI are electrically compatible, i.e. all you need is a cable with a DVI plug on one end and a HDMI plug on the other.
Like this. https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
Your mileage may vary if you're trying to do anything with DRM, though.
How about HDMI -> D-DVI connector, might work? Randomly found this https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
I'm actually looking for the form factor, which is the size in a nutshell, of the the power supply. There are primarily two types, ATX and SFX. Which one does your current PC use ?
Common dimensions : ATX - 150 × 86 × 140 mm / 5.9 × 3.4 × 5.5 in. SFX - 125 × 63.5 × 100 mm / 4.92 × 2.5 × 3.94 in. (W×L×H)
If you're planning to replace the case soon, I can suggest some if you want. My suggestion are based around build quality and airflow without being too expensive, included case fans is a plus. I reckon you'll stay with mini-itx (small form factor) cases ?
I'll put the top-rated Western Digital Carvier Blue 1TB HDD on the list for now, 44.89USD with 0.04USD price/GB. Somehow it's cheaper then the 500GB model (69.89USD) on PcPartPicker. If you'll get my recommended SSD in the future, you would need to reach for the M.2 slot, and doing so might require you to partially take apart the PC. If you have any trouble, just go on YouTube, tons of tutorials available. Reminder to move your OS from HDD to SSD.
It's fine if you don't have a monitor, but do know that if the TV doesn't have high enough refresh rate, you won't need such mid-high end graphics card to begin with. By the way, note that the part list includes new Mobo, CPU, and RAM.
Edit : Might as well ~ DVI to HDMI Suggestion 1 Suggestion 2
Do not use VGA.
Get a cable that has DVI on one side and HDMI on the other ... like this one.
This will allow you to connect your HDMI video out to your DVI in your monitor. DVI and HDMI both carry a digital video signal.
Best Buy
Amazon 1
Amazon 2
Newegg 21.5"
Newegg 23"
(Both of these monitors have DVI-D but not HDMI, so buy the aforementioned cable.)
[Newegg has much better prices/selections/reviews than Best Buy. Create an account; you won't regret it.]
Here you go
Edit: I'm not familiar with the different standards for DVI, so make sure you're getting the correct DVI adapter (e.g. DVI-D vs DVI-I, single & dual link)
Ah thank you.. also, can I hook this up to my monitor from the switch? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007MWE1E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2C3T2TJLRN6F6 and not have problems with video output?
With a DVI-I to VGA adapter, a DVI-I to HDMI cable, and an HDMI cable, it looks like you would not be able to run that config.
They make DVI-D to HDMI cables. If you replaced the DVI-I to HDMI cable with that, you should be fine. The four pins on the DVI-I port that are not on the DVI-D port are what push the analog signal. Without those four pins, you would need an expensive set-top box to output an analog signal. The DVI-I port needs to be used for the VGA display, whereas the DVI-I to HDMI cable can be replaced relatively cheaply.
try this
Hmm, so you've tried inputing a vga to hdmi lead into the console before? My understanding is that Analog (VGA) to Digital (HDMI) requires conversion via something like this
Edit: Amazon Comments seem to support this belief.
Edit 2:
I know you didn't really ask for this advice but seeing as the converter looks to cost ~$20-25 and may actually result in lower quality (VGA can increase in resolution but loses sharpness as it is filtered by default) you might consider upgrading your GPU. That way there's no extra wires, you get a crisp clean signal, a slight performance boost, and it's all for about the same price and more or less guaranteed to work where the converter may or may not.
Output = VGA
Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
That's just a two second search on Newegg. Like I said I know you didn't ask but I thought you might like the heads up before spending money that might unknowingly benefit you more elsewhere. Also to be clear these cards assume your current card is PCIe. Most of your card model are easy to tell with a quick google search if you don't know already.
> Still, generally speaking you don't have to look at system requirements when buying a console game.
You usually don't have to do that for gaming PCs, too. I've been gaming on PC for years, and I never once referenced system requirements. I used to manually adjust settings, but with nVidia's GEForce Experience software, I don't even need to do that, as it optimizes settings automatically based on your PC.
>I understand that newer PC's and Laptops will have HDMI out on them but I still see several people with older system's that are without one. And because they aren't using them for gaming I doubt they feel the need to buying a new one until their current one stops working.
In that case, you can buy a VGA to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $5 or a DVI to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $2.
I would not try an svideo personally. I have my 360 plugged into my tv using an HDMI cable. But if your going into a monitor that doesn't have HDMI, you could use a HDMI to vga or dvi depending on what you need, and then rca audio to rca female to 3.5 mm female, then plug in pc speakers to the adapter. Linked below are the parts. This is what I would try, I don't know that it would work.
Plug audio from 360 and pc speakers into this:
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372430037&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rca+female+to+3.5+mm+female
Plug one of these HDMI cables into the 360 and the monitor:
http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372429330&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+vga+cable
http://www.amazon.com/DVI-HDMI-Cable-6ft-Male-Male/dp/B0002CZHN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372429391&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+cable
HDMI does carry sound, but dvi and vga don't deliver it. I hope that helps.
http://www.amazon.com/VGA-HDMI-Cable-6-feet/dp/B002TUC64W is the link to the one i bought. Yeah, I thought at the time is was too easy but for $4 I thought I would try. Now I would like something that would for sure work.
There are VGA to HDMI cords.
Like this?
Hopefully you can get your rPi doing great things!
Alright thanks! Now why won't this work exactly, if you could expand on the analog and digital bit?
Edit: Would an RCA cable like this work instead?
i have this but that also isnt working except on my tv (im probably doing somehting wrong idk)
can you tell me something i do need less than 10 dollars?
I've been using this one for the past 3 years with no problems.
I didn't realize the price drop this thing had, you can get it on amazon here
Anything like this ought to do! I was going to suggest a simple 2-in-1-out splitter cable, but having a unit with a built-in switch like this will enable you to leave multiple simultaneous inputs active, which is convenient. Also, cheaper than I expected!
you have them, it's the component cables, I was just saying not everyone realizes they exist.
as for the hdmi thing, it claims to upscale, and do image processing. I know an upscaled dvd looks a lot better so it seems to me the same could go for the wii. as for extra hdmi ports: http://www.amazon.com/eForCity-SWITCHER-SPLITTER-SWITCH-Specification/dp/B0030AZ44O/ref=pd_cp_e_2 this one or any other one like it, doesn't matter really, they auto switch inputs to the newest signal, very handy, I have a couple of them (different from this one)
Get something like this?
I use a splitter on my computer monitor to switch between my PC and an xbox. All in one would be an ideal solution, but too few HDMI ports on the TV can be worked around with one of these.
I have this and I plug it into my tv and a hdmi from Apple TV and Xbox going into the female ports and switch as needed
You should be able to plug the hdmi male pigtail side to your Xbox and an hdmi coming from both screens into the hdmi females and switch as needed.
It's a cheap HDMI switcher from Amazon. Nothing special. I've noticed the graphical corruption is almost always due to faulty cables.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I purchased this HDMI Splitter and its great!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Its currently set up so that it plays my chromecast by default, then if i turn my xbox on it switches to that, then if i turn on my ps4 over either of those it switches to that.
Makes it really nice and any remote un-necessary. I've had it for almost a year and had no issues. Even if i did, i'd re-buy this one.
I use this one with zero problems whatsoever, and its only $6, no need for anything more.
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use a splitter on my hdmi input and when I hit any button on the Roku it automatically switches to it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ive bought 2 of them over the past year or so.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XUQU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030AZ44O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the one with the remote is the one i use now, both of them have auto sensing so if a device gets turned on, like a dvd player then it will switch it to. the one with the remote is a bit more useful as devices like the PS3, wont actually stop putting out an active HDMI signal. so the ps3 would have to be on port 1 and my xbox would have to be on port 2 so when i turn on the xbox it would auto switch to it, then once the signal is gone it would default back to port 1.
the one with the remote is nice because you dont have to worry about all that junk, and i never used the remote. i have a Dishnetwork universal remote and i learned the buttons for the input switching on that, the only downside is it doesn't seem very strong so pointing it directly at the little ir dongle is required.
If the reviews are even close to correct, I want this!
Or This
there's [nothing] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418086421&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=audioquest+cable) [wrong] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Coffee-12m-Braided-HDMI/dp/B003CT5KMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418086421&amp;sr=1-17&amp;keywords=audioquest+cable) [with] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-NRG-WEL-Signature-Power/dp/B0055OM9WS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418086421&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=audioquest+cable) [audioquest] (http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-NRG-4-Power-Cable-15ft/dp/B008AL0ASI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418086421&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=audioquest+cable) at all, did I say there was anything wrong with them?
I wonder if the monster cables are these monstrosities
AudioQuest Coffee 12m (39.4 feet) Braided HDMI Cable
$2,199.75
this one is even more expensive
http://www.amazon.com/Coffee-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/dp/B003CT5KMO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_3
mmm lub dat coffee digital audio ethernet for only $2,200 ;)
Amateur. 12 meter HDMI cable, 2200$
these reviews are amazing.
The reason I love AMAZON
XFX R9 390 with the 10 foot version of this Monoprice HDMI cable : https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG
also using this 10 foot USB extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
I got artifacts with those HDMi cables. One cable gave me intermittent streaks. The other gave me snow on the left lens.
I used this cable and got no artifact: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I got this cable (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Commercial-Premium-Female-Extension/dp/B004C4SECG) from the wiki and didn't try it yet but the cable is way too thick and too stiff. I will return it to find one like the UK of the wiki where is ultra slim. I have too that repeater ordered but from ebay, then I have to wait 3-4 weeks.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The HDMI cable is probably much better than the Bestbuy one since it's 24AWG (which is usually only used on longer cables). All in all the price is about the same with dollar conversion. You can get it a bit cheaper directly from Monoprice if you want to wait (it is the HDMI 24AWG commercial cable).
These ones worked for me.
I also have that Inateck 4 USB card though which solved my USB power issues.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00GV0MUJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
What did you use to extend the USB portion? I used these two and have no change in latency
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7S2FRE/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C4SECG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You really gotta make sure the usb side is active (powered) usb 3.0, as far as I can tell that’s the only
Yeah works great, though the cable is REALLY thick. My only complaint is the power extension cable says it is 10', but it is actually about 2 inches shorter than the HDMI and USB cable which makes it slightly a pain to plug in. Other than that, no issues. Here is everything I ordered:
HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG
Power cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H8Q8EGA
USB cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
Sleeving: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQMYW
I'm having luck with this one. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Really late reply, but it's all the way in. Could the cable be bad? It's the one that came with the monitor. I was thinking of buying one to see if that would help. Was looking at this one.
Give this one a try.
> I had the simplistic, "Heck no I'm not gonna buy a Monster cable; digital is digital!" mentality.
Digital is digital. But it's still an electrical signal which is subject to interference and degradation. DP doesn't use any kind of error correction, so if the signal doesn't reach the end of the cable in its entirety, your display device won't show a picture.
But yeah, don't buy Monster cables, anyway. They're a massive rip-off. After having exactly the same issues as yourself, I did some research and pretty much every forum post I found recommended Accell for DisplayPort. They're no more expensive than a 'standard' DP cable. Just very well made.
It depends on the amount of data going through the cable. The higher the bandwidth, the shorter the distance.
1440p144Hz is 12.7Gbps, which is relatively high for a DP cable.
After checking through what's available on Amazon, I see that the 25ft cables definitely do not support 1440p144Hz. I see a couple certified 15ft cables that do like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-010B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Latches/dp/B0098HVXVQ
It's only 10ft, but it's DP compliant as far as I can tell by the reviews. Hope this helps.
It is actually very important to get an approved DisplayPort cable. HDMI cables don't matter, any cheap cable will work. But DisplayPort cables are a little more complicated and it's possible to buy a cheap one that doesn't work correctly.
I bought this cheap cable because I didn't know it was possible to buy a bad DisplayPort cable. I ran into all sorts of issues with FreeSync not working and my screen flickering/glitching. I thought for sure my monitor or my GPU was broken until I ran into this review for the cable. Turns out the cable isn't DisplayPort compliant and it doesn't meet specs listed at www.displayport.org 's list of qualified devices.
So I bought this DisplayPort cable that is officially approved by DisplayPort. Once I used that cable everything worked flawlessly.
TL;DR: All you need to know is ONLY buy a cable that has DisplayPorts logo on it. Anything else and you risk the chance of the cable not working correctly.
> At 2560x1440 and onwards, 10ft DP cables become a crapshoot where they will "work", but not work. If you have one that is working, I would LOVE to know what brand and model it is, because I've tried all of the actual DP certified cables, and none of them work.
I use this cable from Accell - it does 1440p @ 144hz with no issues.
DisplayPort at high bandwidth is actually very specific when it comes to cables (especially length). Basically anything over 10ft won't do high bandwidth at all and very few will do high bandwidth reliably at 10ft. You'll need a VESA certified cable. I bought this one and it's been perfect.
lol alright. Went ahead and bought this on a rush delivery, since my city has no computer stores that carry anything useful at all..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVXVQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have made the switch, but it didn't work the first time I tried. Not all DisplayPort cables are created equally. All officially-licensed cables should work, but many cheap cables are not wired according to the strict standard. What this means is that some cheap DP cables that don't say "DP" on them will not work. I bought the cheapest cable I could find and unfortunately it did not work. But I bought an officially-licensed one and it worked fine.
Also, if I switch DP ports on my graphics card, I seem to confuse it. Try a different port.
Make sure you have a free hdmi port! If not, you can use displayport with something like this.
edit: someone already posted this.
Not if you buy a good cable. I am not talking about 100$, I am talking about something certified. You can read the thread about this yourself.
He recommended this one for example http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B143B-007J-UltraAV-DisplayPort-6-6-Feet/dp/B00A7R9I22
Again super expensive cables are useless but the 2$ cables are not that great either.
Without a certified cable you cant make sure that this wont happen:
>//EDIT #2: Some uncertified cables even have an active 20th pin on the DisplayPort connector, which will feed 3.3v of power back into the GPU's DP jack. This causes all sorts of wacky DP link failures, sleep resume failures, and display flashing issues. This pin should never be active on a certified standalone DisplayPort cable! The only way to guarantee that you don't have such a cable is with a DP certified cable, which tests for this.
Most of these cables are something between 10$ and 20$ so dont waste 50$ or so on a cable! but dont go for 2$
Randomly found a solid deal on a certified one if anyone is interested!
Accell mDP to DP 1.2 - VESA-Certified Mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort 1.2 Cable - 6 Feet (White), HBR2, 4K UHD @60Hz, 1920x1080@240Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7R9I22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_px7RDbQ5DQ25H
Here's the one I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B143B-007J-UltraAV-DisplayPort-6-6-Feet/dp/B00A7R9I22
That might be possible. I'd just get a new cable and call it a day. I have a SP4 and the Dell U3415W connected via the new dock and it works great! The LG did not come with a regular DP to a miniDP (I guess). I bought this cable on Amazon and it works great - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7R9I22?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
I use this one.
This is one of the few cables I've found so far, but the reviews are very mixed. Some are claiming that only 60hz is achievable, and some are claiming twice that - but fail to mention at what resolution.
You should get a VESA certified HBR2 cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CD1FB4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZimDbQBQX4PM
sure, I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CD1FB4E/ref=twister_B00ACFUB84?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Certified cables was recommended here: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3uvp02/a_holiday_reminder_on_quality_displayport_cables/
Don't crossfire is my advice. Better to get the RX 480, bound to be better than the 7790 in CF.
I'll make mention if the card (HD7790) has freesync capabilities in games etc. Now waiting for it to arrive. I think it can't do freesync in games, but I'm gonna test it. If not the dp 1.2 cable will be for a new RX 480 gpu.
Cheers
That means you need a new DisplayPort cord, as yours should not be supplying power. I did some research when I noticed some issues with my cord, and found out I needed one that was certified by the owners of the DisplayPort technology, like this one.
or would you reccomend the display port insteadhttps://www.amazon.com/Accell-1-2-VESA-Certified-DisplayPort-1920x1080/dp/B00CD1FB4E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=displayport+cable+240hz&qid=1573560034&sr=8-3
Thank you, i was not aware of them being so susceptible .
It did come with a mini dp to normal dp cable, but its sadly enough to short, With the distance that it has to go i dont get around going with a 3m one.
I quickly checked and they do seem to sell accell here,
I contacted uGreen, and hope for a replacement, if all of that doesn't work then spending a bit extra for this certified Accell one is my only option...
This cable is certified and worked well for me on my 29um67: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-010B-2-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B00CD1FB4E/
alright, I'll give it a go, do you possibly have a link?
EDIT: NVM, already ordered this and this.
What sort of issues were you getting with your setup? I'm also hitting an issue where the monitor won't ever wake once it goes to sleep, even when only it's connected...
The one the came with it was too short for me (I think it was 6 feet long). The one I ended up going with was this 10 foot Accell one on Amazon (or directly from Accell), which is DisplayPort certified and listed on their website.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CD1FB4E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Is the one I used for 1440p 144hz, It was only $14.88 at the time though.
Had the same issue (though on level 30 >.<). Here's now I fixed it:
I purchased 10' extensions for the HDMI/USB/Audio cables and then (this is key) wrapped them in these.
A costly upgrade but I haven't had a single wire issue since. You still get wrapped up if you're not careful but it's easy enough between rounds to see which way you need to turn during the next round to undo it.
Here's my stream from last night when I got rank #3, you can see my wire setup and technique for monitoring it (skip around).
Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.
But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).
Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?
My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/
Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+
Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.
I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.
For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.
As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.
Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.
---
As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(
This worked for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 Edit: For your TV, it shouldn't matter. People are having issue with extending the HMD with hdmi extension cables.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Looks like it's the HDMI extension that's dropping the signal since the problem has gone away since I connected directly to the GPU. These are the current extensions I'm using. What would you recommend I use instead or purchase additionally?
When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.
I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.
For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.
For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)
I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and have had great success.
I will try to get some pictures tonight. I am using 10' extensions.
HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
USB:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
As /u/Proliator said, it's probably pointless to use a 3x 144 Hz setup. But if you really want to try, you can get a DP splitter then get a DP to Dual-Link DVI adapter? That in itself is costly and not worth doing imo.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Triple-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor/dp/B00JLRBB8I?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Maybe you can use an adapter
This one is expensive, but you might be able to find a cheaper one
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter-MSTDP123DP/dp/B00JLRBB8I/ref=asc_df_B00JLRBB8I/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198076677096&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=8983757051106826135&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=1014214&amp;hvtargid=pla-351134236485&amp;psc=1
Couldn't you use a display port splitter like this one
Looks like the rx460 is limited to 5 displays, so rx 470 would be what's needed, as well as two of these in order to split the outputs.
Oh wow, that's awesome. So something like this should work? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S
While editing my post I've discovered that there is now a thing like you've described. This for example. I can get mine to mirror, but it won't recognize multiple displays individually. Is this standard behavior?
You can only have up to two non-DP monitors at a time IIRC. You'd need a DP MST to split the DP and then active adapters for each DVI monitor. Not necessarily cost effective but that's how it is.
http://support.amd.com/en-us/search/faq/170 You're correct, I never ran into this issue before because I had a displayport AMD card last. Well that sucks lol. I'll have to go pickup a MST hub.
Thanks!
http://www.vortez.net/articles_file/30926_xfx%20r9%20390x%20review%20-%20intro.jpg
This is the Display port hub is anyone else runs into the same issue http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S
So, by your stipulations, your only option is to buy new monitors that support DP MultiStream but that's not cheap.
You're not going to find an adapter to power multiple displays that does not hook up to USB or external power. I don't imagine access to multiple screens is common on-the-go, so I don't understand not wanting a dock.
What I'm trying to say is, you're going to have to compromise on one of your requirements.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Multi-Monitor-Adapter-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S
I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLRBC7S
But you can find it cheaper on eBay pretty regularly.
Does this work https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Multi-Monitor-Splitter/dp/B00JLRBC7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499548850&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mini+display+port+hub
I use this one on my SP3 dock:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MST-Hub-Mini-DisplayPort/dp/B00JLRBC7S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449775484&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mini+displayport+to+display+port+dual
works great, every once in awhile you gotta hit the button and reset it, but I think it's more to do with the dock.
Thanks Dan. Right now I have 2x Dell UZ2315H connected using a Mini-DP to DP cable, and also the Surface Book display as a third display. Those solutions there look...confusing? Couldn't I just get something like this and be ok?
This is your only option outside of a USB to DVI or hdmi
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MSTMDP123DP-DisplayPort-Triple-Monitor/dp/B00JLRBC7S
I just got [this disployport splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Triple-Multi-Monitor/dp/B00JLRBC7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425579485&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=displayport+splitter), yesterday, and it's working really well, especially with the dock. You might want to give that a try.
My 280x uses mini display ports instead of full sized ones so I'm using this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bz5vxbTZSBF0B
There are regular display port to hdmi cables though. www.amazon.ca/dp/B00Z05JMKO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_mB5vxb8TD4YWC
So something like this would be ok you think?
Q1, I don't think the active HDMI is necessary.
Why not Mini DP to HDMI?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464865283&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi&amp;psc=1
I think it might be mini-display port: https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473361728&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mini-DisplayPort+to+hdmi
So there is a wire that comes off of the monitor and into this box, then the wires coming off the box go into your PC? It seems you have one, possibly two options.
If the cable that goes into that box (I believe it is a mini display port cable) is NOT removable from the back of the monitor, my suggestion would be to get a cable or adapter that you will plug that boxes cable into, allowing you to plug into the Wii U.
If you can get the mini display port cable to disconnect from the monitor then this cable or this adapter should work. This option seems more likely to work if the mini display port cable can disconnect.
Note: Mac connections can be finicky, and it could possibly be proprietary (only work with other Mac products) so neither of these options are guaranteed to work, but I'd be willing to bet the $5 on it.
Also: you make the links into words by formatting it like so words
It's this guy
Use a mini displayport to hdmi adpater.
Something like this.
Come to think of it I don't think you have control over your drivers, Macs are locked down and you only get what Apple serves via the Apple Update Center or whatever it's called.
Are you using the HDMI cable that was included in the box? (If one was?)If you're not you could be using an older standard HDMI cable which doesn't have enough bandwidth.
I'm very surprised to see that monitor only has one input.
Is your adapter an actual cable or do you have a box converting a mini displayport into HDMI?
I feel like the issue lays somewhere in your connection method or cable, do you have pictures or model numbers of the adapter perhaps? Did you buy it recently? Is it really old?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0134V3KIA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536211484&sr=1-3&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi
You'll see this cable above only supports up to 1920x1080 at 60hz
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready/dp/B00YONKZ72/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536211484&sr=1-6&keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi
This one supports up to 4K
This would be an ideal straight connection from your laptop to the screen. If you're using an adapter box as well you'd need to check that is built to transmit HDMI 1.4 as well, the cable is cheap enough you should just do a direct connection.
What is your monitor? If it has a DisplayPort on it, get an mDP to DP cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mini-DisplayPort-Black/dp/B07K36QBYX/
Otherwise if your monitor does not have DisplayPort, here is a mDP to HDMI cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Mini-DisplayPort-Cable-Ready/dp/B00YONKZ72/
I generally suggest avoiding adapters whenever possible with video.
One thing that I know will work. Plug in a TV or external monitor using a mini display port to hdmi or VGA adapter. and if you close the screen after you turn it on, have power plugged in and use an external keyboard and mouse, it will force video to the external display as if it were internal. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201834
That adapter should work, or a cable like this
here are their top choices for TVs to use as a monitor.
I haven't tried using that TV as a monitor, but here is a review. Specific to using it as a PC monitor:
>Great TV for PC use. The TV feels responsive thanks to low input lag and excellent motion handling. It supports chroma 4:4:4 for clear text across all backgrounds but unfortunately, the viewing angle is poor, so the edges of the screen darken when viewed from up-close.
Agreed, the Surface is not going to provide the premium experience. It will be able to provide a basic demonstration of the technology on the go.
As for the cable, this is one of the cable I attempted to use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YONKZ72/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472828864&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=mini+displayport+to+hdmi&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41u3yXrcduL&amp;ref=plSrch
Do you mean to say that I need a minDP to Displayport with a Displayport to HDMI converter?
You're probably going to want this by the way: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YONKZ72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 It works fine on my T430 and is able to handle sending audio to an external display
And don't be fooled by the high price HDMI cables. A $10 cable will do the exact same thing as a $60 cable. These are the ones I use and I have no issues: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-2-Pack/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509547237&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amazon+basics+4k+hdmi+cable
As long as its HDMI 2.0 and does 18Gpbs you'll be good to go.
None, except price. HDMI will either work or not. HDMI 2.0 offers a bandwidth of 18GBps which is what you need. Just make sure you have a faster internet connection (Netflix says 30 Mbps is good to view their Ultra streams) and all the necessary items turned on with your display or streaming devices, and that your connected to the proper inputs on your display that are set up for 4K (all the inputs on your B6P can do this. By the way, that is one of the best 4K sets out their right now. Congrats). These are the cables that owner's of your display are using according to the thread over at AVS Forum-https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8SX4Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478189676&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Amazon+basic+18gbps+HDMI+cables
If you want tons of info about everything about your display read their forum thread. It's really great. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2426314-2016-lg-c6-b6-owners-thread.html
I almost pulled the trigger on this display after seeing the price drop but decided to wait. Enjoy your purchase.
These work great with my equipment:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Sony X930C,
Denon X4200W,
Nvidia Shield 2017 and 2015,
XBOX One S
This are all the cables I've tried:
1.-Original PS4 Pro cable
2.-Amazon basics cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y
3.-PlugLug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHEBA5G 4.-BlueRigger https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0
None of them have worked.
Not sure if the issue is the tv or the ps4.
What does Source Selection do anyway? As for HDMI cable, its the Amazon Basic HDMI, I think 2.0, cable. Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/
I have been battling this issue since release day of the Apple TV 4k...I have an LG 55" C7P...encountered screen flicker as well as issues not receiving 5.1 audio from the optical out of the TV to my SONOS 5.1 setup (but when ATV 4k was set to stereo, I would always get audio).
The LG native netflix app worked perfectly for me (audio, 4K, and HDR wise), but there are simply not enough native LG apps (HBO GO, etc).
I was using an amazon basics high speed HDMI cable seen here (as well as others rated as high speed and 4k/60p compatible):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
no matter what HDMI input - 1/2(ARC)/3/4 - the issue persisted...sometimes I would get audio for a while at 5.1 and then, bam just silence. The Trumotion settings to 0,0 mostly mitigated my flickering issues, but not entirely.
After purchasing Deadpool (4K with HDR and 5.1 audio) on iTunes and being forced to watch in stereo only last night...because 5.1 simply wouldn't take no matter what I did...
I finally called Apple today (11/11/17), and they advised me to take it into the store...long story short, I have a replacement I can pickup next week when it comes in, but left with my unit... The Apple guy suggested that I try a new HDMI cable 'for the Apple TV 4K'. I am very much aware that 'most' modern HDMI cables should be 'good enough'...BUT, this is a new Dolby Vision certified cable made by Belkin out recently:
http://www.belkin.com/us/AV10175-Belkin/p/P-AV10175/
https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HLL52ZM/A/belkin-ultra-high-speed-4k-hdmi-cable-2m
defined as Ultra High Speed HDMI, and supports true 4k resolutions up to 4096x2160 and bandwidth of up to 48 Gbps per Apple's site. Previous high speed cables are NOT Dolby Vision certified, and they are rated up to 18Gbps. Now 48Gbps is an enormous amount of data, and that's likely not the reason I am typing this post...BUT:
I am 30 mins in to testing (iTunes content as well as Dolby Vision on Netflix Apple TV 4K app)...and so far, this cable seems to have been the solution...what's frustrating is that the HDMI cable market is not easily navigable...UHD/4K/HDR/HFR, all of this adds to the confusion...IMHO apple should have bundled this cable for an extra 10USD to avoid various threads throughout the world wide web that discuss this issue...it's very much known, and I think everyone that is having the flicker, or stereo only audio problem with 30 USD to spare could save lots of heart burn, headache and time enjoying their TV 4k (instead of scouring forums for solutions) by picking up this cable.
YES - it's quite frustrating to have to drop another 30 dollars for this setup to work properly...but I've easily spent that in time scouring for solutions. [sigh]
Got the Amazon high speed cable and tried it with no luck.
These to be exact
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SX4Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then tried this one which I hook my PC up to the tv
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DW9H56/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had this issue when I first got my soundbar and I fixed the problem with this High-Speed HDMI cable. The old cable worked fine when plugged in directly to the TV but it started to glitch when connected via HDMI ARC.
I am using the amazon basics cables. Cost me like 10$ for a 2 pack, and is 18gbps (also on a LG 4k UHD)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
here is a link for anyone interested.
I am going to buy a new HDMI cable and hopefully it is ARC compatible. Will get this one
its okay i ordered the amazon basic ones last night which support 18gbps
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just got these, hdmi 2.0 hdcp 2.2
Hi everyone,
Finally my turn to contribute. I've updated the Cables Wiki with my current experience. To summarize:
Needed to extend 15', so I opted to try the (fairly cheap) passive cable route.
I extended from my PC to my link box without any issues at all. I used the power cable that came with the Vive to plug the link box to a nearby outlet, but you could probably use an extension cord if you really needed to.
For reference, I've been using this HDMI cable:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8T8FC
and this USB cable:
http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-SuperSpeed-Type-Male-Cable/dp/B00HFFTONM
Thanks to /u/ZenPaws for recommending these in https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/47626o/can_the_vive_be_connected_with_extension_cables/
I extended the cables between my pc and link box with a 15foot hdmi and a 15 foot usb 3.0 and it works fine no artifacts or noticable lag. There are a few other thread about people talking about it. I purchased the following cables recommended in those threads. HDMI:
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 15 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0g3xxb3M8RQE1
And usb: Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Cable in Blue 15 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9MQA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ai3xxbQWB45BC
You may have seen thing about active cables but for this length it works fine for me with this cables. If you have any other questions I'll try to answer them.
Are you going through a wall? Why are you wanting to expand it?
How about this one : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0VDqDb2FH7EJZ
There is currently only one proper displayport to HDMI 2.0 adaptor on the market:
http://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B0194F1MY4/
It is pretty continuously out of stock. If you do manage to get one, then you can just connect it to an HDMI cable.
It shouldn't be too difficult to find a 15ft HDMI cable.
Edit: When you get an HDMI cable, make sure you get one of decent quality, like this one from Amazon basics:
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8T8FC/
Open SteamVR, then open the SteamVR settings here.
Go to the Developer tab, scroll down to near the bottom, and press "Remove All SteamVR USB devices".
Reboot.
&#x200B;
If it does not work after that, open the headset mirror (look to the image, click Display VR View instead)
Check the mirror, if it's displaying a tracked image (pick up and move the headset and check for movement on the mirror).
If it does, and the Vive display is black, disconnect the HDMI cable from the headset (far left cable in this set of instructions)
And then unplug the HDMI cable from the link box, keep all over cables plugged into the link box, and plug the HDMI cable that goes into the link box, into the headset.
&#x200B;
If you get an image from this, you have a bad 3-in-1 cable, or at least the HDMI portion, which is quite prone to failure, and I'm actually dealing with one currently as well.
You can then either buy a new 3-in-1, or buy an HDMI cable of a similar length (this one is known to work) and zip tie it to your current cable.
I have these two and they work just fine.
15ft HDMI
15ft USB
I did notice one is a bit longer than the other for some reason, but other than that. They both work perfectly fine.
HDMI though I've since switched to display port due to needing hdmi for tv.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8T8FC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463685278&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=hdmi+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41RPh1kjNpL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
USB cables matter not Amazon basics was confused.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSS9LEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1463685386&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=usb+cable&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41B8tV7hspL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Yes, I was eventually able to get extensions working by using an HDMI repeater. Here's what I finally settled on that worked for me:
I had previously tried some of the male-to-female HDMI extensions without a repeater from this sub's wiki and those didn't work for me, but this combo did the trick.
Here's what I've got in my cart. If somebody could give a quick glance and tell me if I'm good to go. I'd greatly appreciate it:
Power supply:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&amp;psc=1
Link box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JL0YIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A38ZT5SX6TTZ4E&amp;psc=1
Hdmi cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Usb cable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSS9LEI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&amp;psc=1
>Excellent. A "gold" reply indeed.
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>I'm going to go with your recommendation of letting go of HDR and just do premium pass through for the audio.
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>This is my existing TV - Receiver HDMI cable: amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T8FC Does it meet the standards needed, or should I get the cable you linked to ?
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>Also, is it safe to assume that the HDMI cable that ships with my new PS4pro will be high-end enough to connect the Console to the Receiver?
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>Cheers!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T8FC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
My cable
Im not really an expert on monitors so I'm probably missing something. But cant you just buy a HDMI to DVI cable? DVI is very similar to HDMI and it does not need any adapters, just a simple cable with a HDMI connector on one side, and a DVI on another. I have an older monitor and have been using it with such cable for years. The monitor is 60hz only though so i dont know if this would work for 144hz, but i cant imagine why it wouldnt. But then again, my knowledge might be lacking lol.
https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-PCM-2296-06-HDMI-Cable/dp/B0007MWE1E
http://www.amazon.com/Video-Cable-Black-Support-Necessary/dp/B002TUC64W
Alrighty, time for some critical thinking.
Facts we know:
YOU are incorrect sir. THESE are the only bulletprrof cables out right now (Certified that is ) read up on it
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKK82/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
4K HDMI Cable 6 ft - Atevon High Speed 18Gbps HDMI 2.0 Cable - 4K HDR, 3D, 2160P, 1080P, Ethernet - 28AWG Braided HDMI Cord - Audio Return(ARC) Compatible UHD TV, Blu-ray, Xbox, PS4/3, PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N343SBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lBfDDb3Z4YDYT
You are all a bunch of idiots.
If it were a surface, you all would be hypocrites and OP would be dumb for not buying the correct adapter. (also no HDMI port).
https://www.amazon.com/CHOETECH-Thunderbolt-Compatible-ChromeBook-MateBook/dp/B01LYS3Q5A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484612751&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=USB-C+to+HDMI
There... USB-C on the MBP already has HDMI out.
video: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-HDMI-Cable-6-feet/dp/B002TUC64W
.97 cents hdmi to vga
------------
audio: i use my ps2's multi-out audio cables (red and white) connected to a receiver as an aux input.
Or just buy a hdmi splitter like the one below. It automatically switches to whichever screen is turned on,
Insten 3 PORT HDMI SWITCHER SPLITTER SWITCH FOR HDTV 1080P High Speed HDMI Specification https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030AZ44O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JkadBbAVTAPDC
Yeah, HDMI cables aren't cheap.