(Part 2) Best sata cables according to redditors
We found 2,419 Reddit comments discussing the best sata cables. We ranked the 408 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
My understanding is if you get the adapter with NON molded sata connectors, then the issue doesn't exist.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=molex+sata+power+adapter&qid=1567095235&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Well there's a few considerations.
1: If you want to keep your data (all your downloaded games, Windows, documents, Steam, etc.) then you will need to clone your old hard drive to the new SSD. A lot of SSD's come with cloning software, but just to be safe check on the SSD's page to make sure it will come with it. If they don't, you can download a free software called EaseUS ToDo Backup Free but in my experience this software is a little unreliable. (EDIT: /u/spif_spaceman recommended another software called Macrium Reflect Free, and after testing it myself I concluded that it does seem to work much better than EaseUS, and going forward I will recommend it to everyone as well. Thanks spif!) If you don't want to move your data, you could always just disconnect the HDD, connect the SSD in its place, and reinstall Windows.
2: To actually get your system to read both drives if your going to copy your data, you can simply power off the system and install the SSD in a second drive bay and plug in SATA power and data cables, or you can get a SATA to USB conversion kit and plug the drive in externally. Here is a great kit that I use at my job as a computer repair technician all the time, as it's very reliable, works with most major drive types, and is simple to use. You could also go with something like this if you want something a little more clean and easier to use. Personally either one of those solutions would work, however that enclosure does have a USB 3.0 connection vs the cable which uses a USB 2.0 connection, so the enclosure would have a faster data transfer speed provided you have an available USB 3.0 port.
3: Once you actually get your data moved over (or not) you may need to get a 2.5 inch to 3.5 inch mounting bracket depending on your case. Most modern cases (3-5 years old generally) will have support for an SSD built right in, but some may not. If not, here is a good kit for a great price, and you get 2!
Hope this helped!
It's not as likely as you would be lead to believe, but I would not recommend leaving it powered on while you're away for an extended period of time. (Make a sandwich? Sure. Go to work for the day? Maybe not.)
Cheap Part
Better Design
Meanwhile, I'm using one of these sketchy SATA-to-SATA things since I need a short splitter to power two SSDs. I really should fix that.
Silverstone makes some:
a better solution (in my opinion) would to be to get some extensions and snip those rather than snipping the PSU cables.
The T5 was actually Samsung's first drive with their 64-layer TLC, which is also used in the 860 EVO and the last revision of the 850 EVO. It also uses the dual-core MGX controller found on the smaller SKUs of the 850 EVO. This is coupled with the ASMedia ASM235CM bridge chip which is found in many SATA-to-USB3.1 Gen 2 enclosures (example) as opposed to the older ASM1351 found on some cheaper adapters (example). So it's a solid device all-around but, yes, you could DIY.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8794
https://www.amazon.com/CB-43SATA-Individually-Sleeved-Connector-Premium/dp/B0036ORCIU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501428818&sr=1-1&keywords=nzxt+molex+to+sata
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501428835&sr=1-12&keywords=molex+to+sata
I still am a Wii lad.
(just took my soft-modded launch day preordered Wii, not Wii U, to a family relative's house this past Sunday and we played Smash Bros Melee, Rush 2049's battle mode, Mario Kart Wii, and were going to play some Brawl Minus before we ran out of time)
If anything, a soft-modded Wii is easier and more practical nowadays than ever (except for the abundance of used Wii Minis - those cannot be softmoded) thanks to really cheap SSDs which let you just get a simple known-working USB-SATA adapter (I use this Vantec one) plus a 120 to 240GB SSD for only like $30 to $40 in total, and it being an SSD combined with the Wii's own internal storage being flash memory as well as just generally being small means you can transport it all around largely without worry! (transportation protip - to prevent Wii remotes for accidentally having buttons pressed during transport and killing batteries, simply turn a single battery to be backwards which is safe specifically for wii remotes. Don't try this on other electronics unless you know for absolute sure the batteries are directly connected in series and not individually to the device itself)
For reference, USB flash drives can be problematic, especially USB 3.0-based ones, and you can't launch disc-based Wii games from SD cards. Certain microSD--to->USB adapters could theoretically work just as well if you wanted something smaller, but I had a spare 128GB SSD around and a family friend already got that USB-SATA adapter on my suggestion for an unrelated task, so I was able to borrow it for a bit and confirm that it really does work perfectly with soft-modded Wiis before buying an adapter of my own (which was a godsend considering my incredibly hit-and-miss luck with USB flash drives).
You can get SATA cables with a 90 degree angled connector, that should solve your issue of sneaking them under the GPU to have more than 2 HDD's. Here is a very cheap one.
FWIW, I have done similar soldering work and something that has helped a lot is old-school Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Parallel Cables. They are basically 80-pin ribbon cables with a 0.025 inch (.635mm) pitch between conductors, which matches up nicely with many types of surface mount chip pins.
In a case of a repair like this, I'd simply cut off a segment of ribbon cable 7 conductors wide, strip the end to about 1/4 ", make a small bend to match up the pcb to the chip, make sure the wires are perfectly parallel, and then solder them all at once almost like is shown in the video with the normal pins on the chip. It can take out a lot of the tedium of soldering individual wires while risking unsoldering of wires that you've already placed, because the ribbon cable would keep the wires parallel.
There are ones like these:
Time for something like this
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-22-pin-Female-Power-Extension/dp/B00L9R3AKA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517457385&sr=8-5&keywords=sata+cable+with+power
The R720XD has two internal 2.5 drive bays on the back of the server. I have two SSDs attached to the server through these two drive bays in a mirrored pool for VM storage. FreeNAS has no problems with them, aside from the normal FreeNAS alert that those two drives get kinda warm. SMART shows no issues.
I have another pair of SSDs in a mirror, attached via SATA to USB cables for my FreeNAS boot volume. This too works fine, no alerts from the server nor FreeNAS OS about any of the SSDs attached. SMART is good on these drives as well.
When you mention your R610 reports them having problems, is that from the server itself? Or is the report from your OS? Are they attached to your HBA?
I am having the same problem OP. It shows up as "working" on the bios screen, but when in the OS, it registers as "NVIDIA Corporation Device 2182 (rev a1)". When plugged into the x16 slot, it registers correctly as 1660 ti. So I guess it's the risers? These are the ones I bought: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B076KLJR2Y
EDIT: Found the fix OP. Set the PCI-E speed to auto in the bios settings. You may have to update your firmware (I did).
I've got this, and it works well.
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478712962&sr=1-1&keywords=ide+usb
Yea, for a SATA drive to work in the Xbox you need two things: a converter and an 80wire cable.
This is what most of us use as it is quick and reliable.
And this is the cable I get.
The important part is really the adapter as the wrong adapter will cause booting issues and add time to the boot.
This is the IDE to SATA adapter that is recommended on this sub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EOJNGC2
You can't use the original grey IDE cable that comes in the stock xbox if you upgrade to a modern SATA drive with the above adapter. You'll need to pick up an 80 wire one. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC
Personally, I have a 2TB drive (WD20EZRZ) in mine - plenty of space for everything.
Here's the video on how to partition it on the xbox: https://youtu.be/6wsGjDOOAP0
That's a good chunk of the info for upgrading the hard drive. I use a modchip so that I can run it unlocked and don't have to worry about anything.
Install the modchip and HDD, then boot up the latest Hexen disc. It should be able to build your new drive for you. Then you configure your bios to point to the xbe that you want to boot into and then re-flash it to the modchip.
You should then boot to that xbe when you reboot the xbox.
Check out XBMC-Emustation also. Takes time to get it fully setup, but it's the best dash (in my opinion)!
...and no - installing an SSD will not do anything positive for you.
These two have been confirmed to work by a few people with no issues that I've heard of: Ebay or Amazon
Personally, I use the ebay one. $40 is waaay too much for an adapter. Oh and here's a good 80 pin cable to go with it.
one of these guys:
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-E-Degree-Right-Angle-Riser/dp/B005FEGXXY
Something like this:
Monoprice 108793 12-Inch 4-Pin Molex Male to 2 15-Pin SATA II Female Power Cable Net Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUL5CM/
I personally use these in my tower chassis as my other chassis are servers with SAS backplanes.
E-outstanding Large IDE 4P to 5 SATA 15 Pin Power Splitter Line PC Power Conversion Line Hard Disk Drive Power Supply Extension Cable Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZX5RWG/
looks like the sata connectors don't fit well with the acrylic case, you may want to use angled connectors such as this one
don’t give up yet, the disk is likely to be still good. you’ll need to remove it (taking precautions against static) and plug it into another computer using a cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B000VS4HDM
(the exact cable you need depends on the disk interface but this cable does the 2 most common by far)
I've used this one on both of my Xboxes and it works fine.
First thing's first, confirm that it's not a 1.6 Xbox and if it isn't, remove the clock capacitor immediately. If you don't do this, the Xbox will be destroyed, so there won't even be any point in doing anything further.
To answer your question, you can just swap out the HDD and then boot the console with a HeXEn 2017 disc in the drive and it will setup the HDD. If you're using a SATA HDD (which you should), you'll need an IDE to SATA adapter and you'll need to replace the Xbox's IDE cable with an 80-wire IDE cable.
Also, instead of playing with those discs, install all of your games to the HDD and play them from there. These old DVD drives are failing, so you should use them as little as possible.
Molex is actually one of the safer connectors. It’s generally got pretty thick conductors, and big honking hunks of plastic between the pins.
It’s the SATA side of the connectors that are dangerous. And a SATA splitter? That’s like triple-your-danger.
The key is a nice connector that’s crimped, not molded. Like this
Internal SATA Cable?
I’m not Canadian, but I’ll try to help.
This PC is a great build with an awesome CPU and a decent GPU but lacks both an SSD and 16 gigs of RAM, both necessary for future-proofing. (The SSD is necessary now, but you can hold off with 8 gigs of ram) Sadly, I can’t find builds that are less than 1k CAD with anything similar or better than this with more RAM or an SSD.
I recommend getting a separate SSD like this. (You can always do the cheaper 250 gb variant for less money). I recommend this SSD because it is one of the fastest and comes with amazing Windows 10 cloning software. this guide is how I installed mine (just ignore the laptop specific parts like removing the battery. You can then order a SATA wire like this one to install your SSD. (If you don’t know where in the case you should put your SSD, just use 3M or double sided tape and tape it someone aesthetically pleasing on the bottom of the case.
The sata cables should be obvious where to install (on the right side of the motherboard, usually stacked on top of each other, slightly above or below the GPU), otherwise, you can look up your motherboard to find the SATA slots. Then just install the cloning software and follow the guide. When you need more RAM, look at the PCs ram slot and order another 8 gig stick (if there is only 1 stick of 8 gigs), otherwise, just order 16 gigs of any DDR4 ram you want. I’m sorry you need to do work to get a fully future proof machine, but remember this isn’t 100% needed, just highly recommended. (Plus you can save 100 bucks from your paycheck a few weeks from now for the SSD, you don’t need it the second u get ur pc. Good luck, let me know if you need any help!
P.S You don’t even need a big SSD, just something to hold Windows 10 and programs like Steam and Chrome. Big stuff like games can go on the HDD
to plug in the harddrive you will need a cable that looks like this , come come in variour colours
http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Right-Angle-Serial-Cable/dp/B0001Y8UI4
and they plug into the motherboard slots that look like this , can also be different colours
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cables+to+plug+in+hdd&espv=2&biw=2560&bih=1318&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwihkMKbjcPJAhXGOxQKHZvcC2sQ_AUIBygC&dpr=0.75#tbm=isch&q=sata+slot+motherboard&imgrc=5kiJk-6xu007JM%3A
and the power connector looks like this coming from the psu
http://www.pimfg.com/ifaq/images/satapowerfaq.jpg
and the both go in the back of the Harddrive
24 inch length is the one you want. This is the one I got and a lot of the reviews mention Xboxs too. https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000I21Y28/
This will show you how to fold it properly:
http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/
Here is a guide for safely removing a hard drive. Once the hard drive is removed you want to avoid static or magnetic or electrical interferencesas best as possible. As /u/BmanUltima suggested, a SATA to USB adapter is your best bet.
Absolutely! And to piggyback on your comment I've used one of these for years on tons of drives
FWIW, if you're looking for an adapter just to look at or transfer data, here is an IDE/SATA adapter that I have used successfully on various drives.
To upgrade the softmod, use this Quick Upgrade from Rocky5's Softmodding Tool. You just FTP it to your the root of the E partition and run the default.xbe file. If you haven't nulled your EEPROM, you need to do that as well so if the HDD dies, you can easily replace it. You can run Rocky5's Softmodding Tool Extras Disc from your HDD or use ConfigMagic to do that.
Also, if you have a SATA HDD dock or some kind of SATA to USB adapter, nulling the EEPROM would allow you to easily build an upgrade HDD on your PC for the Xbox. You may even be able to hook the HDD directly into another slot in your computer, but I can't remember. I want to say yes on that though. Anyway, you'd use XboxHDM2USB beta 3 to do that.
OR, you can use Chimp 261812 to clone your HDD to a larger one. You will need a molex splitter, IDE to SATA adapter; this one is recommended a lot but others work too. And you will need a 40-pin 80 wire IDE cable; 24 inches is recommended. You'll boot you Xbox as normal, load Chimp, and it will tell you when to hot swap the DVD drive with your HDD you're upgrading to. It's pretty straightforward.
As for the DVD drive, they are interchangeable between Xbox consoles and are not locked to the motherboard. I don't know much about those, but you can try cleaning the laser or adjusting it doing a laser pot tweak. I think that's what it's called. Someone more knowledgeable than me can chime in on that.
And lastly, since it's pretty much obligatory here, remove the clock capacitor in your Xbox if it hasn't been removed and your Xbox isn't a revision 1.6 or 1.6/b.
This will help...https://youtu.be/yc_1KnqKr94
80 wire cable... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IDF0JC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Since you're tsop'd, you can get any hdd/ssd you want. I used these exact cable and adapter on my recent hdd upgrade and the cable snaps in firmly, and works great. The rotation of the connectors is backwards, but you can't see it once installed. the adapter also comes with a molex power adapter, so I now have an extra. You dont need to buy one. I just shove the extra wire behind the dvd drive and you cant see it.
There are different risers and adapters.
http://www.amazon.com/Micro-SATA-Cables-PCI-E-Degree/sim/B005FEGXXY/2
That's kind of a crazy mix in that link, but there are PCIe 90s, and ribbons there. Just search for pcie risers or pcie 90. You'll find them.
This.
Or this.
It doesn't look like your power supply is modular because those Corsair PSUs use ribbon type cables.
These types of cable adapters are usually frowned upon. They tend to be very cheap in quality and have been known to start fires. Many people buy a power supply designed with at least two 6+2 pin PCIE power cables instead of using cable adapters.
Consider this.
It's an old IDE (PATA) drive. Depending on how old your computer is, you may have an IDE connector on your motherboard (it's unlikely, however optical drives continued to use IDE for a time after hard drives switched to SATA). You'd need an adapter kit - like this - to connect it to your computer. However, you can buy a brand new DVD burner off Amazon for as little as $14.49, so IMHO you'd be better off just buying a new drive than a (relatively) expensive adapter for an old drive.
Yes, here is the adapter that you needs,
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU
I modified a Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable External Hard Drive Link and used a Sata extension cable similar to this Link.
Its passively cooled and I haven't had any problems yet.
http://imgur.com/a/4ix9v
Wait, the one I linked earlier is for 2.5" hard drives. Yours looks like a 3.5" one, so this adapter is the one that'd fit yours.
That other one will probably work, but this one should for sure.(See edit 2). You can also get this one for cheaper, but it'll copy files at a slower rate.Edit: I know that these 2.5" and 3.5" drives use the same SATA connections, but I don't want to be responsible in case something's off with the adapter I initially recommended to OP. 3.5" wasn't listed in its description, so I just wanted to play it safe and recommend something I'm more sure of.
Edit 2: So I just learned from the replies that 2.5" HDD adapters can't carry enough power to spin up the disks in a 3.5" HDD. So the first adapter I linked actually wouldn't have worked. Thanks for the info!
UGREEN USB 2.0 to SATA USB to Hard Drive Converter Cable with 12V 2A Adapter for 2.5 inch 3.5 inch SATA HDD SDD https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00MYU0E0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eDYZCbBWKFYDA
Get one of these?
it should run on the regular power supply
for usb, i have this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0157BS5D0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 since it comes with a usb-c port too
and this to route power to it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V6QA2A0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (had to break off a tab to plug it in)
for the 2010 model you're looking at, cpu replacement is standard, and you already have the dual processor tray so nothing out of the ordinary. Just take off the giant heat sink, unlatch the processors and clean out the thermal paste, apply thermal paste to new processors and drop in.
I agree, just get a USB 3.0 or 3.1 external but why get that expensive and super slow HDD when you can get an external SSD or a normal SATA SSD and a USB adapter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84
Or the 3.1 version:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE
I would never run any OS off of an HDD at this point, they're frustratingly slow. But that's just me.
That is a 2.5" SATA hard disk. A cable exists that will allow you to connect it to a running computer via USB and browse its filesystem. You could then navigate to your files, if they are still there, and manipulate them. You'd buy it on amazon, or locally if you want. Anything like the following query will get you one: "2.5" sata to usb" Here is a link to one that will work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FB3R12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Either a cable or an enclosure would work. The linked item can function as both (see pictures). That's a good thing because you are able to use the old hdd as external storage, provided it hasn't been damaged.
​
Cable Matters 3-Pack 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps SATA Cable (SATA 3 Cable) Black - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cE6nDb0R0CG5X
Like this?
First I would say to try to have the cables go straight across to their connectors, like instead of having the sata cables going diagonal, this will help give it a better look. Secondly I would recommend checking out something like a cablemod kit to make the cables the same color, so that the cable you do see looks nicer
They can be picked up fairly cheap:
CableMod Basic Cable Extension Kit - 8+6 Pin Series (Black/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6F4WTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PSbZDbJ4HQ83R
I would also ditch the red sata cable and go with black or white to fit your theme:
Cable Matters 3-Pack 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps SATA Cable (SATA 3 Cable) Black - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GVbZDbEM0D6K7
Edit: I would also say try to neatly bundle all those cables going to the bottom right of the motherboard with velcro or zip ties and try to tuck them along the edge so you have one neat run.
Ps. Nice build!!
Yes you will need extra cables.
Plug this from the ssd to mobo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018Y2LEBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522009437&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41xJ3hQTrOL&ref=plSrch
Plug this from psu (labeled pcie) to cable in third link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EUSZ0BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522010323&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+power+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=41QT9CWt%2BeL&ref=plSrch
Plug this from ssd to cable in second link:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GGLOG02/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522010950&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+power+cable+female+to+female&dpPl=1&dpID=41B7BDANGyL&ref=plSrch
PLEASE MAKE SURE ALL OF THE CABLES CAN REACH FAR ENOUGH!!!
About your os, how many gb was the m.2 they provided you. I would try to cram everything onto that m.2 drive and not even hook up the sata drive.
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Transfer-Type-Power-Supply-Fan-Open-Air-Mining-12-GPU-Case-Rig-Frame-For-ETH-/183066453295?hash=item2a9f9c652f
I know this has been discussed to death but using the molex to sata or 6pin to sata adapters are definately bad (another link that can burn down). If they were connected directly from the PSU with the OEM cables with no splitters or adapters it SHOULD be ok.
Rarely do I see it happen tho.
I bought this riser specifically for that so I can use 1 molex/sata per lane and have both options, I can even go 6 pin on all of them if I buy the cables but I don't trust 3rd party cables
https://www.amazon.ca/Ubit-Express-Graphics-Extension-Ethereum/dp/B076KLJR2Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518274932&sr=1-1&keywords=ubit+riser
As far as I know, those drives can use standard cables. You may want a right-angle SATA cable, however, if you don't have a lot of cable management space behind where your hard drives go. These are usually bundled with the motherboards that you buy at retail stores, so you may have some already.
I got curious and went digging for it. On December 29, 2012 I ordered 3 sata hard drive cables ($2.99 each at the time) and a hand blender. Total for the order was $51.48 with $50 coming from a gift card from my mom as a Christmas gift. The shipping address was my place of work because we're in a remote community without door to door mail service. I'm pretty sure all 4 pieces shipped separately.
Edit: It was indeed smh
When I was working for a national retail chain a few years back, the manager explained how they had a standing deal with a courier service that would make weekly trips between stores. They got charged a $1 per package on top of their regular deal, so there wasn't that much incentive to limit how much they ship. Canada Post is definitely propped up by their parcel business, of which Amazon is a large component.
Considering the story that broke in Europe on Prime Day this year (or at least that's when I first heard about it) how their warehouse workers aren't allowed to talk to their coworkers or sit or take breaks, I don't see why those workers would have an incentive in making things smoother especially if the automated systems are the ones that are prompting this sort of inefficiency.
I would really encourage you to think about upgrading the hard drive after you softmod it. Playing backed games on discs can get expensive since most of the games are 6gb+. Even a 80gb IDE drive would be a massive help!
The hardest part of modding is finding a flash drive that works.
What you will need.
Flash Drive (should work)
https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Blade-drive-SDCZ50-004G/dp/B002U213Y8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539785044&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sandisk+cruzer+blade+4gb&dpPl=1&dpID=411nUnjz9eL&ref=plSrch
Usb to xbox controller port
https://www.amazon.com/Mcbazel-Xbox-Converter-Adapter-Original-Console/dp/B076HHZ41Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784602&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=xbox+controller+to+usb+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41y27JttbeL&ref=plSrch#
Sata to IDE adapter (If you upgrade hard drive)
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784695&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sata+to+ide+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=51styPntUEL&ref=plSrch
80 connector IDE cable
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor-inch/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539784965&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=80+connector+IDE+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41gZKwD33jL&ref=plSrch
Use the Rocky 5 mod and youtube tutorial and you will be fine!
Here’s the one I got, works fine!
CableWholesale Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hGoSDb2C5G1MF
I wouldn't buy a used hard drive.
I like Seagate drives, but any SATA drive should work with:
THIS CABLE: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I21Y28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
AND THIS ADAPTER: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EOJNGC2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1/187-6724831-0643107?ie=UTF8&qid=1468022753&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5%22+2.5%22+ata+adapter
This should do the trick just fine. Looks handy to have around, too.
Make sure you don't plug the drive in backwards, it's easy on those small drives when it's not keyed. I've cooked drives doing that before. Oops!
You're probably looking to an IDE to USB adapter, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-SATA-Combo-Adapter-Inches/dp/B000VS4HDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462242915&sr=8-1&keywords=IDE+to+USB
24" 40-Pin 80-Wire Ultra ATA 2-Drive Ribbon Cable, Manhattan 332781 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IDF0JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ipYCb2XZTCHP
This is what I ordered, it just arived today.
You'd need a 90 degree PCI-E riser like this, though I don't know if this particular one is 3.0 or not. Some of them may have issues with the back of the card hitting other PCI-E slots as well, so check reviews before you buy one.
Google found this http://www.amazon.com/Micro-SATA-Cables-PCI-E-Degree/dp/B005FEGXXY
You will need a low profile card for that case because of the height. Unfortunately almost all low profile cards are somewhat gimpy. Due to the size and heat, you won't be able to get a low profile 7850, or even a 7750 in low profile size. Maybe a 7450 once those come out.
If you want good graphics you'll have to forsake a slim size case. You could potentially get something to work with a PCI Express right angle adapter, but I don't know the layout of that case, so even that might not work.
16x riser cable with 90 degree end
16x 90 degree adapter
One of those should be what you are looking for, the right angle adapter would fit in the slot and then you could use a regular cable.
You just need a 90 degree PCIe Riser card. This way, the card will essentially lay on its side, and bam, thin desk is achieved.
You might could try unplugging your optical drive, and running an adapter from whatever powers the optical drive to the 8 pin power connector for the card.
If your PSU can support the wattage, of course. Which for a low-end card, it probably can.
Something like this.
splitters or adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Power-Splitter-Adapter-PYO4SATA/dp/B0086OGN9E
https://www.amazon.com/Branded-8inch-15pin-Express-Power/dp/B005NJXY7O
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y8FSMQ
Those are PEG 6 pin and PEG 6+2 Pin connectors. You can use adapters like this 6 pin and this 8 pin to get some extra of these if your power supply does not provide any more. Each will consume two SATA power connectors (molex versions are also available). But most of all, make sure your power supply is strong enough to handle those cards and your system.
Yeah, I had plans to use my 1070 in my next PC build in August, but use it in my current PC build until I get the rest of the parts, so then I can sell my old graphics card to a friend of mine.
Right now I am using an AMD Athlon X4 860K (Yes I know that the CPU is a big bottleneck to the GPU), and I don't have it overclocked. Is there any way that I can temporarily underclock the 1070 to take up less power, so then using it is a possibility?
Here is the power supply I have plans on buying for my next PC build, but may buy next month: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R2mxFT/corsair-power-supply-cp9020103na
Also, here's the adapter thing I bought initially:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y8FSMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-SATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B0096BEJDI
IDE is an older type of hard drive connector. Later replaced by the common sata connection. All new motherboards will require an [adapter](
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0096BEJDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425881631&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=ide+to+sata&dpPl=1&dpID=519TDL6NcrL&ref=plSrch) to work with these ide drives.
IDE vs Sata
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108794-24-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GULFJ0/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GUL5CM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YQ4W53/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
+
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFSGQTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
is enough to power 2 nodes with 15 strips (one of the 16 I got was defective, but I have more coming so I can see how much juice the one 2 amp brick can power)
My thinking exactly - I have one coming today.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GUL5CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
This one uses crimping rather than molding the plastic around the wires.
Just get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
Or get a different mobo, this one for example: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/wQFPxr/msi-motherboard-h81me34
You'll need an adapter to use your front panel USB ports.
You'd need a slim Optical drive, 5.25 bay to slim Optical drive + 3.5 bay adapter, and finally a 3.5inch usb 2.0 panel.
Your better off with a regular ODD and a USB 3.0 to 2.0 adapter
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU
Your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header tho...
In any case, here's a 3.0 to 2.0 adapter
if you don't have a usb 3 header on that motherboard here is an adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU
I think I found my answer. lateral 90-degree cables. I had no idea there was such a thing. At $10 a pop, they are expensive. It is much cheaper than buying a new case.
Silverstone Tek Ultra Thin Lateral 90 Degree SATA Cables with Custom Low-Profile Connectors (CP11) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EjYsDbP836JEH
Might this cable fit under the GPU?
If you aren't planning on doing SLI/Crossfire this won't be an issue. If you aren't planning on using more than 2 SATA ports it won't be an issue.
If you are doing SLI/Crossfire and you plan on using 3-4 SATA ports then you'd have to get a low-profile cable like this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-CP11-SST-CP11-SATA-Cable/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/
It's a pretty niche issue but it can be solved. For a 40euro difference I'd go with MSI.
If you are using a SATA drive, you will want a thin and more flexible cable. Silverstone makes them in blue and black, and the black can also have fabric wrap for more money.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/
The PS4 is made to hold 2.5" drives that are 9.5mm thick. If the hard drive you get is thicker than that then it might be worth it to buy the same external housing I bought and this cable. That wire isn't very long so maybe this one would be better, since you don't need a SATA III cable. So, plugging it all in is really easy. The only real problem is finding a place on the plastic cover to cut out a hole so that the wire can run outside the PS4.
Okay a 15mm 2.5" Drive will fit in the cage? I was wondering that aswell was going to take some measurements but I Have a 3.5" 4tb Drive I tried installing using Sata extenders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L9R3AKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) but the PS4 Pro dosn't have 12+v HDD Support so it would power the HDD(I connected using the Stock 1TB HDD and it mounted and booted up so i knew it was connected to the Sata/Power ports correctly just had to align precisely with a flash light. so i was thinking about Getting these(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A5323NO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2S4EXOOJ8Z82D) and (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P6W8E8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1UCLUF7KW7AYG) to mount a 3.5" HDD. Any thoughts?
After getting the correct parts with a lot of research on which parts to get, Linux(Ubuntu) is running Eight GPU XMR Rig. I added the list so that you do not have to wonder which parts to get.
​
Eight GPU Rig Essential Shopping List:
​
NOTE: I do not get paid for referring to newegg.com, ebay.com and amazon.com.
You can search them using google and duckduckgo.
​
https://www.ebay.com/itm/COLORFUL-C-B250A-BTC-PLUS-Motherboard-LGA1151-Mining-8-Graphics-Card-Stolts-US/123046058473?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
​
Linux and xmrig-amd miner do not work well with PowerColor Red Devil Vega 56 GPUs.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007709%20601302833
​
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117619
​
It may work with 8 and 4 GB modules. I had 16 GB on hand and I did not want to buy extra.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232155
​
5. Seasonic PRIME 1300W 80+ Platinum Power Supplyhttps://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151214
More power needed for overclocking.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Power-Button-Computer-Switch/dp/B01LMZZFWO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537039724&sr=1-1&keywords=SW+PC+Power+Cable+on%2FOff+Push+Button+ATX+Computer+Switch+Wire
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07538SG1H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
NOTE: The fan is very noisy since it is comparable to server grade fan.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYA3A4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Graphics Video Card 24-inch (62cm)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076YXS6KL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
​
How to get it working quick guide.
​
Connect PCIE cable provided by Seasonic(You will use 4 cables providing 8x6 connections) to
PCIE input ports.
Since the mother board does not have 24 pin connector, you have to short 24 pin connector
as shown in the following Seasonic self test video using the paper clip.
If the 24 pin connector notch is on top, connect 4th pin on the first row with 3rd pin on the
second row.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CNsQPFxJdM
Cover the paper clip with electrical tape.
​
Once you get the pc booting, install according to my Vega mining guide with onboard GPU and single Vega and stop it at "ADD ALL THE VIDEO CARDS HERE". Turn off the computer.
Connect remaining seven COMeap 6 pin connectors to PCIE output ports on the mother board and to other 7 GPUs.
​
Vega Mining Guide for Linux(Ubuntu)
https://github.com/xmrminer01102018/VegaToolsNConfigs
​
​
Quick sequence for running the miner.
NOTE: Replace gpu sequence, *data* file and fan speed according to your equipment.
Copy config.json_V56_8GPU to config.json and add your wallet id to it.
If you are using V64 and FE, change intensity to 960 and use the different *data* and PPT files.
​
./setSMClockVoltages.sh 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 MSIV56H.data_OC8_7 skip
./setGPUOC.sh 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 7 6
./setPPT.sh 1 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 2 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 3 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 4 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 5 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 6 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 7 V56PPT
./setPPT.sh 8 V56PPT
./setAMDGPUFanSpeed.sh -g 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 -s 82
cd ~/git/xmrig-amd/build
./xmrig-amd
​
​
Yeah, it looks like you're good. If the other fan is a regular 3pin you can get an adapter like this to connect it to the power supply.
Something like this should work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Converter-Cable/dp/B00MYU0E0K/
It is the corsair CX430m modular atx power supply. Hard drives are samsung ssd 850 evo and seagate 1tb hdd sata 6 3.5 inch. I was looking at purchasing this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V6QA2A0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00. Do you know if these are all compatible, I sure don't want this to blow up! Thanks.
I went the Clonezilla route with my T470, but since you don't want to bother making a bootable USB and working with images, and don't care that you have to buy a cable, then originally I looked at doing it that way with Samsungs software doing a direct clone, and after a bit of research I found that Startech has the best reviews for these types of cables and one of the few that will support the full speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports that come with the T470. Here is the cheapest:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=pd_ybh_a_42?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6SD1W38YYB6HEE0G12EK
Startech also has them with USB-C, and fancier ones that do both 2.5 and 3.5 drives, and if you don't care about the speed there is a cheaper USB 3.0 version. You can find these other versions by going to the above URL and scrolling down a bit where you can select what you want.
If you eventually decide to go the image route, you will find Macrium Reflect Free version easier to use than Clonezilla, because in Clonezilla you need to understand Linux type hardware designations and it doesn't have as pretty of a user interface.
just buy a bare ssd drive, and get a startech usb 3.1 adapter cable for sata drives
then format the drive to the format you want
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE
i have a few of these cables. one for each of my drives that are in each stored in a small ziplock bag with the cable so I can just pick up one of these bags and run out the door. the cable works really nice. when you are using ssd drives, you don't need much protection. just plug the cable into the drive and into your laptop and go.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=twister_B01M6ZINC9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Say's it's for 2.5"
Essentially an external hard drive is just a regular hard drive & a usb to sata adapter all inside of a box. It's possible that the hard drive got disconnected from the sata connector during the fall. Opening up the housing, removing & reseating the internal connector might be the ticket.
If the drive itself is well & truly fucked, you can get a bare drive to replace it with, perhaps even a better drive than what was in it originally. Or re-purpose the the thing to be an external hard drive reader.
Ok, I'll keep that into consideration. Did you do the internal SSD externally on your laptop? Did you ever travel around with it? I have a 1TB Samsung SSD in my current macbook 2010 which is what I'm replacing with the new XPS. I'd be ok using that as long as I dont mess it up w/ static or something. How was the latency?
​
I was thinking about giving this a try https://www.amazon.ca/STARTECH-Adapter-Drives-USB31CSAT3CB-Black/dp/B0133F30R8/ref=asc_df_B0133F30R8/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293004044609&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=376522068352270540&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1002200&hvtargid=pla-298412219910&psc=1
Haha, no problem. The thing with that is it requires many dongles with all the different ports between the years. You'd probably be better off removing the HDD or SSD and using this adapter. Guide on how to remove it: Its quite easy.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5119
​
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB-SATA-Adapter-External/dp/B0133F30R8/ref=asc_df_B0133F30R8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309773039951&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1743821262942276880&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006786&hvtargid=pla-298412219910&psc=1
No problem 👍 If you're using Firewire enclosures for 2.5" or 3.5" hard drives you can get USB-C to Serial ATA cables and possibly bypass a Dock or Hub completely. The great thing about using 2.5" SSDs/HDDs is you can buy a Thunderbolt 3 RAID enclosure and have multiple hard drives show up as one hard drive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133F30R8/
Dear god we're hopeless!
I got this to use with my 850 EVO that I pulled from my 2014, and putting back in the 1TB HDD, prior to selling it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0133F30R8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00
Take out the drive. And buy one of these Vantec USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA HDD Adapter with case (CB-STU3-2PB) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015FB3R12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D7YUDbP94EV62 or a cloner which is the same thing just a bigger box
I think they came with the motherboard! Similar ones are readily available on Amazon:
Cable Matters 3-Pack 90 Degree Right Angle SATA III 6.0 Gbps SATA Cable (SATA 3 Cable) Black - 18 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ATXmDbHWS228R
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Degree-Right/dp/B018Y2LEBE/
The 90degree bent ones are nice.
In my case it wasn't my primary hard drive. I just unplugged it and the system would unfreeze.
I had one of these which due to the position of the drive in my case wasn't in all the way.
I replaced it with this
I’m certain there are many other good ones available but I’m using these with my rigs. Really high quality (bottom is padded) and all arrived in perfect working condition.
Do they look like this
Leboo 6-Pack PCIE Riser VER 007 PCI Riser 6 PIN 1x to x16 Powered Riser Adapter Card w/ 60cm USB 3.0 Extension Cable & PCI-E to SATA Power Cable - GPU Riser Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FR7Q5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BKwDAbG6RFGSJ
Or more like this?
Ubit 6 Pack Latest PCI-E Riser Express Cable 16X TO 1X (6pin / MOLEX / SATA) With Led Graphics Extension Ethereum ETH Mining Powered Riser Adapter Card+60cm USB 3.0 Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KLJR2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-KwDAb3Q5MJF4
Also if you for some reason can’t get the slot to work you can always get an m2 to pcie adapter. I found these to work very well for me
EXPLOMOS M.2 Key M NGFF to PCI-E 4X Adapter Card, 4 PIN Power Cable (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z5YKXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CMwDAbSAQ8AW5
And these as well
Leboo M.2 NGFF to USB3.0 PCI-E X16 Slot adapter,Pci-E Converter Card Mining Riser Card 2280 2260 2242 M.2-M-key (No Cable Needed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SRVJ2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aNwDAbQ7T96HK
Ah yes, then you would need a cable like this to attach the old removed disk via USB.
Yep, that's definitely SATA. Go ahead and buy that adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7WDZGT
I also recommend using an online backup service like Onedrive or Google Drive. SATA adapters won't help you if your HDD is wiped, laptop lost, fire, etc. Best to have some backups made.
You'll need an adapter like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5sc1CbGFP2G25
You could use a USB to sata adapter
https://www.amazon.com/BENFEI-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Compatible/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa
You wouldn't be able to switch her drive in for yours but if you have a second SSD slot you could put it into that one. Otherwise I would buy this: "https://www.amazon.com/BENFEI-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Compatible/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+to+sata&qid=1574030213&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExM1hPSVJBQ1hGUlFOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjEwNTkxMUpHSDAzSVJVRVUwViZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjQ2NjM0M1ZSRTFJSTJPQUE0TCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= " and hook it up that way.
I posted before, but I quickly realised I can add a lot of performance for only a bit more money.
Here goes the build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-3930K 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | £443.99 @ Aria PC
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | £90.96 @ Dabs
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 12g Thermal Paste | £15.37 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Motherboard | Asus Rampage IV Extreme EATX LGA2011 Motherboard | £305.98 @ Dabs
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory | £135.95 @ Ebuyer
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory | £135.95 @ Ebuyer
Storage | Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | £137.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Crucial M4 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | £137.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £122.74 @ CCL Computers
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX Titan 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) | £791.98 @ Dabs
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX Titan 6GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) | £791.98 @ Dabs
Sound Card | Asus Xonar Phoebus 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card | £143.14 @ Dabs
Case | Cooler Master Cosmos II (Black) ATX Full Tower Case | £284.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans | £21.01 @ Aria PC
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans | £21.01 @ Aria PC
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | £14.99 @ Aria PC
Case Fan | BitFenix Spectre LED 47.4 CFM 200mm Fan | £15.25 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Corsair 1200W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | £235.13 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHOS104-06 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Drive | £24.09 @ Ebuyer
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) | £67.19 @ Aria PC
Monitor | Asus VW228TLB 21.5" Monitor | £136.66 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Asus VW228TLB 21.5" Monitor | £136.66 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27.0" Monitor | £469.50 @ Amazon UK
Other| Headset: Corsair CA-9011112-WW Vengeance 1500 Dolby 7.1 USB Gaming Headset | £73.50
Other| Keyboard: Razer Deathstalker Expert Gaming Keyboard | £70.00
Other| Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Omega | £10.00
Other| Mouse: Razer Naga Hex | £60.00
Other| 2x SATA Cable | £5.52
Other| HDMI Cable | £5.00
Other| 2x DVI Cable | £12.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | £4916.52
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-21 08:44 BST+0100 |
The CPU is extremely powerful- it has 6 cores, 12 threads and 12MB of L3 Cache. The clock is a bit low, so I would highly recommend overclocking it to 4.2-4.5 GHz.
The motherboard is called Rampage Extreme. Just... it's called Rampage Extreme for fucks sake. Has all the features you can potentially want from a motherboard and will allow for good overclocking.
32GB of really fast RAM. The standard for gaming is 8GB-1600MHz, however that does not make a lot of sense when you have 12GB of vRAM alone.
512GB of fast SSD storage for the OS, games and other important stuff. 2TB HDD for mass storage.
2 of the worlds most powerful graphics card. Combined they can max out every game on the 1440p monitor and even games that don't support SLi will do fine on a single TITAN (mostly because games with really need a ton of power support SLi). The clocks are low thought, so using GPU Boost 2.0 or overclocking is essential.
A high-end sound card for all your sound needs.
The cooling system: The fans/radiator for the CPU watercooling on the top, 200mm LED fan on the front, the 140mm fan on the rear side, the first kit of 120mm fans on the side and the second kit of 120mm fans for cooling the 2 SSDs and the HDD. The case has a fan controller so that's a plus. I also put high-quality Thermal paste.
The power supply, while 1200 Watt is 80+ Platinum certified, so it should be really efficient.
I put in a Blu-ray drive in case you want to watch Blu-ray.
We talked about the peripherals, but taking a look at your profile you are a LoL player and I decided to put in a mouse for MOBAs. It should also do well in all kinds of games.
I also added in the cables. As far as I know the motherboard comes with only 2 sATA cable and you have 4 sATA devices (the SSDs, the HDD and the Blu-ray player). The HDMI cable is for the 27" monitor and the DVI cables are for the other 2 monitors.
Questions?
Just an SATA cable. You need to poewr it too, but your PSU should have an SATA power cable built in.
Here is one from Amazon.
Here is another with a 90 degree angle on one side. This is helpful if you have a drive that's sideways in the case (the connector faces one side and not the back).
Amazon seems to have the best cable prices.
Ohh an angled sata connector. Something like this ?
Oh, I thought all angled cables were the same size, but if this is smaller than these I wouldn't mind giving it a try.
As for the external HDD, I'll most likely be using it to store recorded videos/songs and other media and whatnot.
As for upgrading the mobo, in the case of this cable not working, is it worth the hassle to try replacing it while keeping the CPU? If not, I can probably handle using an external HDD for now as a new CPU certainly isn't in my budget for the time being.
StarTech 18in SATA to Right Angle SATA Serial ATA Cable (SATA18RA1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Y8UI4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_y2ZQub01FSXAM
What are trying to do that requires a 90 degree bend? Can you use the ones with the 90 bend at the connector end like this?
I used this one. It worked, but it was far too short for the multi bend between DVD and HDD. I ended up cutting out those bends.
CableWholesale Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_moixDbAVZWVVV
Essentially, yes. It might work without it after upgrading, but it improves performance and guarantees it will work. Just grab it, its 5 bucks.
https://amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28/
Make sure to get the 24 inch one and fold it according to this:
http://web-nine.com/projects/xbox/ide/
What was the error?
XBlastOS (latest version - 0.56) has a memory test feature to verify proper operation of the additional 64MB's of RAM.
Pin header install alone does not cause a FRAG.
I replaced it with [this] (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Ultra-Cable-Device-Conductor/dp/B000I21Y28/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492923123&sr=8-2&keywords=ide+cable) and I can play emulators like normal. I am just having some issues with the disk drive now.
Yes Ultra ATA 100/133 IDE Cable, 2 Device, IDC 40 (80 Conductor), 24 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I21Y28?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This is the ide I bought
That's a Sata and IDE drive, you can use a USB cable but because they're 3.5" drives, you also need to supply power. Something like this is an option.
sata/ide adapter
Missed the above comment while typing... Same idea but better price/package
Then consider using a utility to clone the HDD to the SSD. Samsung includes a Data Migration utility that works awesomely. The catch would be that you need a way to connect the new drive to the computer while the old one is still running. One option is one of these.
Thanks for the reply JCRocky5
To clone the drive, no I wasn't using an 80 wire IDE cable. I was trying to use one first. But that's another problem altogether. The XBox won't boot if I replace the stock cable with it. I understand it might be the root of my problem altogether.
The 80 wire IDE cable is this one
https://www.amazon.com/40-Pin-80-Wire-2-Drive-Ribbon-Manhattan/dp/B003IDF0JC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550262559&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=80+wire+ide+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31dIUoOcXvL&ref=plSrch
Chimp does tell me that I have a master and a slave drive plugged in on the TSOP/Chipped menu path
cable I use myself
You can use a program called Chimp to clone the drive. I've never done it, so I don't know exactly what to do, but there is a link in the sidebar to all of the tutorials.
Another way to do it is with XboxHDM. After zeroing your HDD key (if you haven't done that already), FTP the EEPROM file, and the C and E partitions to your PC and put them in the right folder for XboxHDM. Then you can build a Linux ISO to burn to a CD or put onto another bootable media. You can slap a drive into a PC and boot into that special Linux to create an HDD locked to your Xbox.
EDIT: Since you're using a SATA drive, you'll want this IDE to SATA converter. The Xbox is finicky for some reason with converters, but this one is recommended by the tutorial guide.
You'll also need an 24 inch 80 conductor IDE cable. The one in the original Xbox is only a 40 conductor cable, which apparently causes issues/slower speeds with SATA drives.
try using an 80 wire ide cable like this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IDF0JC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2
This?
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-E-Degree-Right-Angle-Riser/dp/B005FEGXXY
Probably one of these
this
I mean something like this -
https://www.amazon.com/PCI-Degree-Right-Angle-Riser/dp/B005FEGXXY
Sorry, I'm quite new to this :P
http://www.amazon.com/PCI-E-Degree-Right-Angle-Riser/dp/B005FEGXXY
Is that what you are looking for?
7/15 is Friday, today is 7/12
Also try this:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y8FSMQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
You have options if you still have 8-pin power slots open on your PSU. Hard drives don't use much power; rails shouldn't be a concern.
Damn I'm stupid, that's exactly right for the SATA cable. Is this the correct power cable?
Edit: Nevermind I've got it. The current HDD has an 8-pin PCIE that has multiple SATA connections on the one wire. This explains why the motherboard didn't come with any spare wires. All I need is the SATA cable you have pictured there. Cheers!
Have any extra SATA connectors? Could run two of these.
People will shit talk these because risers catch fire over faulty converters and bad grounding. Just be safe about it and you'll be fine.
Edit: Forgot to mention using a second PSU, but did so here.
That's the problem with these macs... (I have a 4,1 as well)
You may be able to find a wire that will adapt from the sata port to the 8-pin. another option is finding some sort of external psu.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATPCIEX8ADP-6-Inch-Express-Adapter/dp/B007Y8FSMQ
Personally, I wish someone would manufacture an adapter for a modular power supply that could replace the stock apple one.
You can get SATA power to 8 pin psu adapters that work fine. I would make sure it’s one that uses two SATA power connectors, not just one.
like this at Amazon for example
I think you need something like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Express-Power-Adapter-PCIEX68ADAP/dp/B007Y8FSMQ?th=1
These are the ones i got, i haven't gotten 8 pins to 8 pins YET. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y8FSMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DV1Z32Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/HDE®-SATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B0096BEJDI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394167553&sr=1-1&keywords=ide+to+sata
the 80 gb one is just a standard ATA drive, and there are cheap ata to sata adapters available.
the 160gb one is unknown to me, but im sure somebody here can recognize it. it looks like it goes to some sort of dock, and there is a normal connector inside, your top picture of it cuts out the bottom.
(might just be if you unplug it from the dock thing you can use same adapter for both)
the text says it also is standard ata.
this will work with both probably:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-SATA-Drive-Interface-Adapter/dp/B0096BEJDI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409770537&sr=8-1&keywords=ide+to+sata (know nothing of this exact one, but you need similar)
also note that ata/ide basically mean the same thing.
edit:
oh and you are probably going to need a desktop to plug these into, to provide power and have a sata port.
a laptop just wont do, unless you find some old usb ide enclosure. (the mac is probably ok)
so like this one?
Apart from the potential fire hazard, this IDE/SATA adapter should do the trick. Might be that only the cables of that product are complete shit, but I don't know.
Yeah, something like this should work.
That said, you can get external USB DVD writer for around $30...
Non-mobile: adapter
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I've got a couple of these. Bidirectional, but you have to plug into the appropriate SATA port, depending on which direction you want to go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0096BEJDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
would this work?
Also, these drives are 10+ years old. Would I be able to just brute force it?
Use a molex to sata adapter, mine (EMAZ) worked immediately. Just make sure you get one of the "quality" ones.
You want one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/
Monoprice 108793 12-Inch 4-Pin Molex Male to 2 15-Pin SATA II Female Power Cable Net Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GUL5CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tbeXzbNWAZ38C
Here's one at least. You have to look at the connection on the SATA (storage connection) end. If the plastic is flush with the wire jacket, it's almost always moulded. If there is a space like with the molex end or if the connection is perpendicular with a cap opposite the SATA connector, it should be crimped or pressed into the connector.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2JX4UG2615&Description=sata%20to%20molex%20adapter&cm_re=sata_to_molex_adapter-_-9SIA2JX4UG2615-_-Product
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2JX4TK0042&Description=sata%20to%20molex%20adapter&cm_re=sata_to_molex_adapter-_-9SIA2JX4TK0042-_-Product
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108793-12-Inch-15-Pin-Female/dp/B009GUL5CM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2ZA4VWISVCJEH&keywords=molex+to+sata+power+adapter&qid=1555110370&s=gateway&sprefix=molex+to+sata%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-6
Well if you used something like this then the ports would work, but only at USB 2.0 speeds - which is the best you can do I suppose!
Will This do the job?
I'd look into the USB3 to USB2 adapters then.
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU
You can run those ports as USB 2.0 if you have an adapter such as: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU which you plug into your motherboard.
Otherwise, you won't be able to use the ports at all.
Something like this?
Sorry, i think i understand now. Let's take this for example. https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU.
So that wide is pretty much my motherboard header. I'm taking the USB 3.0 from the front port, plugging into that wide end then plugging the smaller end into a USB 2.0 port?
if you think it was a manufacturing defect you can see about a refund from the vendor or an RMA with MSI. If you broke it during install you can get a usb3 to usb2 adapter, it's a downgrade but it'll work. https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Internal-19-Pin-Adapter-G11303050-RT/dp/B00B1RM5YU/ref=sr_1_11/159-9856001-8677918?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479098628&sr=1-11&keywords=usb2+to+usb3+cable
If you want to make your life a lot easier...and I mean A LOT easier, please consider picking up a set of Silverstone's CP11 Sata cables. I have 5 of them and they arrived black, not blue.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445&bno=123&tb=52&area=en
https://www.silverstonetek.com/images/products/cp11/cp11-6.jpg
They are super flexible, easy to route, and the connectors are ultra low-profile for those hard to reach places.
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Lateral-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ were these the cable you end up getting?
Silverstone Tek Ultra Thin Lateral 90 Degree SATA Cables with Custom Low-Profile Connectors (CP11) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HDEBGSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6IzYCbNYHX5VD
If something like this doesn't work, then I'm not sure what else you can do.
Try these bad boys.
Saw these on LinusTechTips the other day...
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Low-Profile-Connectors-CP11/dp/B00HDEBGSQ
I think these cables would do the job in your case.
Would something like this work?
I wouldn't use an external HDD at USB 2.0 for any installed programs as its limited to 0.5 Gbits/sec, but just watching media or speed-insensitive storage it should be fine. Grab a 3.0 drive anyway if you can swing it, since you'll eventually upgrade your mobo anyway.
These two do not work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDEBGSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDEBGSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To accomplish this you would need an entire chassis, as the 3.5” model has a different internal configuration. If you’re creative, you could probably rig something up if you got a 3.5” backplane. If you don’t mind a bit of a mess, you could do what I did with my R410 and buy these extension cables and house the drives in these actively cooled drive enclosures. You’ll also want a sata to molex adapter to power the fan in the enclosure.
Sadly that won't help for a cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-22-pin-Female-Power-Extension/dp/B00L9R3AKA
You could certainly crimp another SATA power end on there, but notice how the connector is a single piece...
Get one that’s usb or get a sata extension and have it set to hotswap and hanging our the bottom of your case. That’s what I do and it’s handy for more than just cd drives
Close but it's more like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L9R3AKA/ref=psdcmw_3015394011_t1_B072HJWZ9S but the end is split so I can go directly to the motherboard without an extra cable
I have a better idea.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L9R3AKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OCOGC9B25845
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
cut a hole in the back of the HDD casing to support the connector, plug the connector in to the ps4. Done.
No fear of mashing in a HDD in to a slot the PS Pro was not designed for. No fear of cooking your HDD as it'll live in a enclosure it was designed for. No fear of cooking your PS4 as, sure you have to run it without the back plate which messes a touch with air flow, BUT that should be more than offset by the fact that you no longer have a heat generating hard drive in the slot.
Done.
I'm ordering this today and will report the results.
It sounds like your cooling device and/or fan is straight-up malfunctioning. If the fan itself is shown to be working ok, it could mean something else is messed up like the port or the signal to the fan. If it's the port, you may have a different 3 or 4 pin fan port to connect to on your motherboard -- take a look and see if you can find another port to use and see if it helps.
Otherwise, it may be possible to find a molex-to-fan adapter or sata-to-fan adapter and ensure that the fan is getting full voltage, all the time. You can always tweak it later via software and/or BIOS. Further, this may be a direct issue of the BIOS, e.g., having a setting that either ramps speed of the fan with heat of the CPU or is just plain borked. Check for a BIOS update if possible and apply it if you can get it running.
I would concur that buying a high quality CPU cooler is critical for any build, and a standard CPU cooler is grossly inadequate. Maybe consider shelling out a pretty penny and get a mighty cooler that is guaranteed to deliver massive heat removal.
Good luck!
Here you are:
https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/
You might need another adaptor to connect that to your fan. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C/
Some PSUs come with 3 pin headers so you might want to check if yours has those. You can also get a molex to 3 pin header like this one:https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498618080&sr=8-2&keywords=molex+to+3+pin or fan header splitters like this: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Converter/dp/B01EF9OI0O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498618057&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+header+splitter
Maybe one of these cables-
http://www.evercool.com.tw/categories/global/cables/fancablesadapters/ec-df001/ec_df001.php
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812311001
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009D3KQ54/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25INFPFI9SDAJ&coliid=I3S5I8MMN631RF
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYA3A4C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=25INFPFI9SDAJ&coliid=I774UIR3FD5I8
Something like this will power all of your fans if you don't mind them all running at full speed all the time.
If you want to control the fan speeds individually you'll want a fan controller.
Yes.
You'll also need to power it though. The one you linked won't send power over usb. You'll need something like this to do both.
Edit: if you have spare SATA power cables from your power supply, you could use those as well. But that will mean digging into your case for that.
Hmm, that makes sense I didn't think of all those issues. The current system I have is a Dell laptop Inspiron 7348 2-in-1. I was also planning on upgrading my current laptop's hard drive storage, which is a 2.5" drive. This is in addition to transferring all the files I currently I have on my laptop to the new 1TB HDD. Does this adapter seem like a good choice to fit 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD/SSD? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0E0K/ The manufacturer of the other adapter you linked sells a 2.5/3.5 SATA adapter for $40 and I didn't want to spend that much.
 
Another thing, I've never had a PC with an SSD and 2 different storage devices before. To get the full use out of the speed of an SSD after installing Windows on it and adding the HDD to my build afterwards I would have to move all the programs/files on my HDD I want to load fast to the SSD right?
>Hmm, that makes sense I didn't think of all those issues. The current system I have is a Dell laptop Inspiron 7348 2-in-1. I was also planning on upgrading my current laptop's hard drive storage, which is a 2.5" drive. This is in addition to transferring all the files I currently I have on my laptop to the new 1TB HDD. Does this adapter seem like a good choice to fit 2.5"/3.5" SATA HDD/SSD? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYU0E0K/ The manufacturer of the other adapter you linked sells a 2.5/3.5 SATA adapter for $40 and I didn't want to spend that much.
almost all 2.5" and 3.5" drives have the same kind of plugs, a sata port and a sata power port. what the adapter i liked does is both power and give a connection to a 2.5" or 3.5" drive. the plugs on an hdd and ssd look like this, SATA connection on the left, power on the right. in any case, either the one i linked or you linked would work for both ssd's and hdd's, 2.5" and 3.5" alike. it's standardized for pc building.
>Another thing, I've never had a PC with an SSD and 2 different storage devices before. To get the full use out of the speed of an SSD after installing Windows on it and adding the HDD to my build afterwards I would have to move all the programs/files on my HDD I want to load fast to the SSD right?
thats the entire point of the ssd. the SSD is for any program you want to load fast
while the HDD is for big files that you dont particularly need to load fast:
i said install windows on the ssd first, then add the hdd only to prevent confusion on the windows install, since it doesnt really matter if the hdd is live or not during the windows install. just makes it so you dont accidentally install on it. I usually have it fully hooked up for the first boot, then when i go to install windows i detach the sata cable from the drive, but leave sata power in, so i can go back after windows is loaded to click the calbe back in
for anyone else looking I found this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Converter-Cable/dp/B00MYU0E0K
I will probably try this out.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Drive-Converter-Cable/dp/B00MYU0E0K
---
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If you want to pull info off your old hard drive you could use a device like this www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MYU0E0K/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527504182&sr=2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2056238293673378570&pd_rd_wg=9VWFP&pf_rd_r=B7R4Q4FPDRJA7QJM7F7N&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B00MYU0E0K&pd_rd_w=KJ9Zf&pf_rd_i=hdd+reader&pd_rd_r=ead5ea35-1570-489e-959a-4349dcae8d94&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
>So I want the power from that socket, but the data from the other SAS controller - does that make sense?
Yup. Get yourself some sata power extension cables to hijack the power from those plugs, then get a Sata to SAS breakout cable like this to run the drives to the H700. It will take up some space in the case, but you should be able to make it all fit with some finagling.
sata power extension cable
You can get SATA power extension cables which will give you more slack and allow you to attach things at an angle that works better for you.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Power-Extension-Inches/dp/B00V6QA2A0/
Hm. Well I don't see why those cables wouldn't work as it's completely safe to use these cables, which are powering more important objects.
Although I'd probably use one from a more reliable source. Maybe these ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Power-Extension-Inches/dp/B00V6QA2A0/
I use cables similar to these for my M1
That's a good suggestion actually. I was curious if using an extension may cause issues since there are posts saying not to use cables not provided by the PSU. Is this strictly just for the power cable itself, making extension cords an exception? I see this one on Amazon and was wondering if you might know whether this would be appropriate: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Power-Extension-Inches/dp/B00V6QA2A0/
Thanks for the help!
I ordered these sata extensions on amazon, but anything with five wires coming in should do the trick. Also worth checking if sata cables from your PSU has 5 wires going into them. Most will even though very few devices use 3.3v power, unless you’re using a molex-sata adapter or have a super crappy psu
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How about something like this instead? No need for an enclosure perhaps:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565235845&s=gateway&sr=8-10
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-USB-Cable-USB3S2SAT3CB/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SATA+to+USB+Cable&qid=1565218171&s=gateway&sr=8-3
But I guess if you think an enclosure is better, I'll probably grab this one:https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Adapter-Housing/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SSD+external+enclosure&qid=1565214839&s=gateway&sr=8-4And just tape over the LED or somethin'
I think enclosures support TRIM while SATA to USB adapters don't but it sounds like no one uses/gives a fuck about TRIM anymore. I imagine both of those solutions should work.
Right now im thinking of just getting a few of these an some samsung 850 evos and throwing them on a usb hub. seems like the cheapest way to get 500MB/s+ speeds https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-10Gbps-Adapter-Cable-Drives/dp/B00XLAZODE?th=1
I've been having rough luck with 128GB thumb drives lately, think I might just settle with a USB3.0 to Sata cable and get a proper SSD.
This cable looks promising- https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00XLAZODE
sounds like you want a 2.5 sata to usb.
StarTech.com USB 3.1 (10Gbps) Adapter Cable for 2.5" SATA SSD/HDD Drives - Supports SATA III (6 Gbps) - USB Powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XLAZODE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_49ObBbS3Q30K4
Simple and cheap for around 10-15 on the lowend. When. you attach the hdd, you should be able to mount it just like a usb. or if you are running linux, mount and use the ntfs type, assuming your dead laptop was running windows.
I found this little Gem a couple months ago on amazon. Perhaps if you dont need 2TB external hard drive mount you could "upgrade" to an external ssd drive.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00XLAZODE
I also have a couple Nexstar usb3 external drive connectors in use for drive cloning and hard disk testing and they do work okay. perhaps your hard drive dock has outlived it's expectations.
http://www.vantecusa.com/products.php?pc_id=3
So you're saying get a bunch of these?
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B0133F30R8?sa-no-redirect=1&th=1
Is there some sort of hub that I could plug all the hard drives into then a single wire into my laptop?
I've shot RAW to the Sandisk a few times, can't remember about HQ or not, but I can check again. I use a mixture of Canon batteries (3x) and Aftermarket batteries (3x)
The cables I use are below:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0133F30R8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077GV6TJ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are the batteries:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S6Q5ZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want m.2
Wd blue m.2 for $85
+
A prime $12 enclosure
= $97 pre tax
If you don't mind the size a 2.5" setup is WAY cheaper
su800 for $75 tax in
+
$10 cable, my bad for saying enclosure
= 86 ish bucks after tax
add $7 if you want an actual enclosure
Well I certainly can't ask for a better recommendation than that, and I definitely can't thank you enough either—I can't even imagine where I'd begin if I were to go looking for something like this on my own
So now that I've officially given up trying to fix the g6, I'm realizing that I'm gonna need some way to cannibalize the hard drive—and from my multiple attempts at disassembly and repair (and getting several good looks at the hard drive in the process), I'm fairly certain that all I'll need is something like this guy here:
Vantec USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA HDD Adapter with case (CB-STU3-2PB)
The HP website has a page with specs for the model (g6-1d21dx), but it's like laughably uninformative about the hard drive, so I'm basing my guess on the number & layout of the connector pins on the unit
Like I said, I'm pretty sure, but an extra set of eyes never hurt
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-Adapter-case-CB-STU3-2PB/dp/B015FB3R12
This is the only one I could find that would match it. Because I'm ordering from a dutch website which doesn't state it's name of the product.
Most SSDs will come with disk cloning software. Just get a USB dock, clone your HD to the SSD and then put the SSD in the laptop using the link from the other post.
No problem. Glad I could help. Luckily you were able to get boosted to 11% savings today + 30% from the coupon code! Congrats. They have a generous return policy (not sure if they're competent about it though) so see if it's right for you. This thing will last your entire university career though. Engineering/math/architecture might need a P52S for the quadro discrete GPU but this will be more than adequate for everything else.
This site below is biased to 1 company but they provide the specs of what's compatible with the T580 after-market upgrades:
https://www.crucial.com/usa/en/compatible-upgrade-for/Lenovo/thinkpad-t580
They will sell a 4 GB ram stick for $33.99 from amazon.ca. You're also lucky that SSD and memory prices have fallen drastically this year for your upgrades. When you buy an SSD, make sure it has DRAM so it'll be faster and last longer (this is what differentiates the $54.99 250 GB MX500 I got from amazon vs. the non-DRAM 250 GB BX500 variant that can be had for 34.99 on newegg.ca).
You don't have to use Crucial/Micron products though, just make sure your RAM clock speed is 2400 MHZ, your CL is 17, your voltage is 1.2V and that it is a 260-pin laptop DDR4 ram. You'll want to match the specs of the RAM already inside which I suspect will be an SK Hynix (expensive as it is rare but generic RAM used by manufacturers). I've mixed RAM brands and capacities before without issue (but I never f'ed around with the voltage (more dangerous) and clock speeds (less dangerous)).
Hard drives are easier to pick...just make sure it is a SATA3 (which matches your HDD) and it is a 2.5" form factor. The longer you wait, the cheaper RAM and SSD prices will get this year though. I've seen a 1TB ADATA SU800 priced at $115 pre-tax on amazon.ca. I think many speculate SSD prices will drop to 10 cents per GB (that ADATA deal kinda has in USD terms). Not sure how ADATA would jive with Thinkpads though.
​
I got this enclosure for $11.57 pretax - you'll need it if you do the cloning route, you can find a cheaper/similar alternative, you can either sell your 500 GB HDD or you can put it into one of these and use it as an external/backup (you'll need it if you're in residence and you can share files through DC++ not sure if that's a thing anymore, I've been out of school for a decade+):
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B015FB3R12/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I wish I knew about these when I was in school, I lost a semesters worth of work because my Powerbook G4 HDD died...But now you have the Cloud as well...
Okay guys, try everything on this post and let me know your results.
- https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/memory-corruption-one-bit-large-bsod.2828014/#post-18328143
I tried and still got the same issues, however I happened to move my SATA cable and after moving it my computer straight up wouldnt start, so I am trying a different SATA cable and so far (5 hours) I have not BSODed. I'll do a stress test tonight and tell you guys the results, but it might be worth picking up these SATA cables just to see if this resolves your problems as well. Please post your results!
Also, be aware that you'll need a SATA cable to connect that drive to your motherboard. The SSD won't come with one but your motherboard might have come with a few. If you know where they are then great, otherwise just make sure to order a cable along with the drive. I know from experience how disappointing getting a new drive and not having a spare cable on hand is.
so is this all I will need?
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543084761&sr=1-4&keywords=ssd&th=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Degree-Right/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543090930&sr=8-3&keywords=sata+cable
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Pack-Degree-Right-Angle/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520801458&sr=8-4&keywords=sata+3+cable
If the drive sits horizontal, you might want a 90 degree SATA cable. If the drive sits vertical, you should get a straight. Shop around if need be, I prefer ones with these lock tabs.
You should be good. Scroll down a little to the spec sheet you will see:
"Number Of Internal 2.5" Bays - 4"
I always had good luck with the Samsung EVO's such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U
but other's may have some other options. Another thing is a spare sata cable to connect the hard drive to the motherboard.
Sata Cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Degree-Right/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sata+cable&qid=1572488787&s=electronics&sr=1-3
IMG 4449 that one is the SATA power connector. That needs to be connected to the SSD to give power.
And the data cable connects to a SATA port on IMG 4454 and the other end to the SSD. This type of cable is needed https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Degree-Right/dp/B018Y2LEBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sata3+cable&qid=1556294215&s=gateway&sr=8-3
SSD is capable
I think you got major issues with your risers and/or wiring... What kind of risers are you using? I use all Ubit latest version ones and they are solid, 0 problems.
https://www.amazon.ca/Ubit-Express-Graphics-Extension-Ethereum/dp/B076KLJR2Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539193623&sr=8-3&keywords=ubit+riser
I'm using these risers and powering most of them with molex. I'm using 3x and 4x molex cables but only using 2 of them max per cable. the fact that they're 3x and 4x just makes them long enough to reach to the next card. You can just bend them under the riser so that the cable runs under the riser and to the next card's riser. You can also buy cable extensions to give you more room to work with, just make sure you find good quality ones. I don't have any recommendations as I have not had to buy extensions so far.
I hope to Christ you aren't still powering 5 risers off of a single daisy chained sata cable. You shouldn't be using SATA period but if you are going to gamble and are ok risking a fire, make sure you power sata directly without using any adapters and get crimped sata connectors and not molded ones as it will make it less likely you cause a fire. See here for an explaination
Check out this post I made last week regarding powering rigs. It has a lot of good information including in the comments where I had a lot of questions answered by the sub's residential electrical expert.
My advice is find a way to make 4-pin molex or 6-pin pcie work without adapters. Quality extenders are ok.
The risers are these ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KLJR2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And I don't see why they wouldn't be compatible with my MSI 370A-Pro board...This board can support 6 risers according to MSI
I'm in the UK, is this one okay? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07F7WDZGT&pd_rd_w=vU6Vy&pf_rd_p=42743099-3c6a-4370-bd5b-c49af87959ea&pd_rd_wg=2IRtS&pf_rd_r=YSGEWKZ9SDV9A18KTM1F&pd_rd_r=23cab521-6105-4d57-bf34-9dc01685e9ce
Ok so, either you can buy a ready to go external hard drive or you can use a standard hard drive + a little sata to usb adapter
Since the computers at your school are Apple you would need to install the macos version of C4D on the drive, but it's still doable.
First of all, I'd definitely check the cable you're plugging them into (if it's a PC)
​
Also, you could invest into something like this and see if they're visible?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Benfei-SATA-Adapter-Supports-UASP/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542588052&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=sata+to+usb&psc=1
(useful cable to have anyway)
​
+ If it's a laptop, I'd definitely have a look if it's not because it's overheating? (not sure if that could cause the issue as I've never seen it cause the issue with HDD) - but I guess that depends on what laptop you have.
​
>switch her drive in for yours but if you have a second SSD slot you could put it into that one. Otherwise I would buy this: "
>
>https://www.amazon.com/BENFEI-Drive-Adapter-Cable-Compatible/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa
Thank you! I will buy one and see if I can recover the homework
First question, are you running a spinning drive or an SSD? if you're running a spinning drive, Buy an SSD and upgrade.
​
you need an SSD
A cable to clone your drive over
and I've always used macrium reflect to clone.
Then just swap in your SSD.
I imagine OP is refereing to this device which comes with both a USB SATA/IDE and 4pin Molex adapter.
What do you have in disk management, and how do you know the drive is in working order?
Would these all work in upgrading the HDD?
[HDD on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-500GB-Drive-WD5000AAKX-60U6AA0/dp/B00Y3DSLD8/ref=asc_df_B00Y3DSLD8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3327621541450996635&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060058&hvtargid=pla-569717086723&psc=1)
40pin 80wire ribbon cable
IDE-SATA Adapter
Molex Y splitter
>I can't find a 3U system that has sideways full-height PCIe slots
get a pcie riser card or 90 degree daughter board
> a single 6U case would allow for a shared water cooling loop
I'm still not seeing the benefit. You're going to want a rad for each component (gpu/cpu) a reservoir and pumps. you could maybe break it down to 1 reservoir/1pump but you're spending more money on the case and necessary modifications to do it. If this weren't about cost id say "whatever...do it but go big."
You can get an 8TB HDD for like $140 later down the line when you have the money and just slap that in. You get one of the western digital external drives that go on sale all the time and shuck it and use this cable or something similar to power it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GUL5CM/ and bam you have a cheap af HDD in your computer.
And yes you need the molex to sata adapter for the western digital externals that get shucked about 90% of the time due to some enterprise thing and that is the easiest way to deal with it.
Recommend UBit, I've installed hundreds of GPUs and these have been the most consistent
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KLJR2Y
Yeah you are not reading what the guy says. On v11 things changed, and you should now change. Just because something worked for the last 6 years doesn't make it indestructable. I agree on saving the SATA ports and that's why these are for sale: [USB to SATA](http://www.USB.com/ 3.0 auf SATA, BENFEI USB 3.0 zu SSD / 2,5-Zoll-SATA-Festplatten Adapter [Optimiert für SSD, Unterstützt UASP SATA III] https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07F7WDZGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sdwQDbYGCD27F) just use the internal USB headers of you motherboard.
You can always just convert molex to standard 4pin PWM
Link: ModTek 4-Pin Molex to 4 x 3-Pin Fan Connector Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYA3A4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2Cylzb1P7QNKG
can a USB C power an SSD? considering that could be USB 3.1 i’m not sure
edit: i am so stupid
StarTech.com USB C to SATA Adapter - External Hard Drive Connector for 2.5'' SATA Drives - SATA SSD / HDD to USB C Cable (USB31CSAT3CB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0133F30R8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OdH1DbTM10XGT
I would recommend Mailiya v006C, zero issues and very clean nicely soldered boards.
Mailiya v006C Wonderful risers.
Don't use Ubit v103C, those things are trash and caused me hours of headache. I opened 7 of them and only 4 worked. Poor soldering, splattered solder, missing solder, poor power. Even the ones that did work did not play nice with the MSI Armor series of cards. I wish I kept them longer to analyze but by the time I had enough I just wanted to get my money back. The ones here... do not buy.
Edit: Thanks for the downvotes. Fuck me for having a bad experience with your precious Ubit.