(Part 3) Best artist painting supplies according to redditors
We found 2,366 Reddit comments discussing the best artist painting supplies. We ranked the 948 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?
Get him one of these.
His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.
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Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.
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PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.
Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!
Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.
Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat
FIRST, Read this guide (It should answer most questions)
https://miniarmyhugetimesink.wordpress.com/2014/05/15/so-you-want-to-airbush-a-beginners-guide-part-1/
Then, My intro recommendations: (I've included Amazon links, but you can likely find better prices elsewhere)
Badger Krome (a solid intro airbrush) https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-RK-1-Additional-Regulator/dp/B0078MEXX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494523163&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+krome
Compressor (make sure it has a moisture trap and hose or purchase these seperately)
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1494523192&sr=1-5&keywords=airbrush+compressor
Respirator (a must have for safety):
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07193-Cartridge-Respirator-Assembly/dp/B00079FOK0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494523296&sr=8-3&keywords=respirator+mask
Cleaning pot (pipe cleaners optional)
https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494523444&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush+cleaning
Other things you will probably want
Pretty good. There are a few things for you to consider though.
The paint set is likely a bit overkill. I'd pick paints based on what faction you're most interested in from the set. For example, I'd grab a black and white for sure, then whatever color you'd like the armor to be and a few metallics. You can get a lot done with just those and then expand your paint library from there. If you order that set you will end up buying a lot of paint you will never use.
You likely don't need all those brushes. You'll be better off getting one or two high quality brushes and a bunch of mediocre ones. Most people swear by Winsor Newton series 7 brushes for mini painting. I'd also pick up a cheap brush for dry brushing, I suggest cheap here because drybrushing tends to destroy brushes fairly quickly and you don't need a great quality brush for the process.
I'm not sure what's in the tool kit set but make sure you get some plastic glue for more permanent and seamless melds.
Edit: I just realized I linked a size #0 brush. Get a size #1. #0 is just too damn small.
This is a really popular starter set. If you get in to it you'll definitely want to upgrade at some point, but tough to beat the price.
That plus a watercolor sketchbook/paper are all you really need to get going. Doesn't really matter too much what brand you get, as long as it's one that is made for watercolor. I really like this one, though it's a bit more expensive than some other brands.
If you're planning on doing more minis, don't mind spending a few bucks, and really want a quick easy way to shade for tabletop without having to mix your own washes, Army Painter's Strong Tone Quick Shade is awesome.
Put on with a brush, soak up some of the extra that drips onto the base, enjoy your awesome-looking, shaded mini. :)
> I saw on BGG about wash painting them. How hard is that?
Pretty easy. Buy a wash, slather it all over your minis, let them dry for a day or two, done. If you're totally inexperienced with painting, your best bet for this is probably Army Painter Quick Shade. You just dip the minis in the pot and that's it. Make sure you check out examples of the results before you commit to the quick shade variant over the traditional brush on wash.
> Also, if I do that then decided later to try and actually paint them will I be able to over the wash?
Yes, definitely. Washes are designed for you to be able to paint over them. You can either paint over it directly, or I'd recommend stripping them with simple green and giving them a base coat from a rattle can spray primer. You may even want to do this before you wash them in the first place but it's not absolutely necessary.
Get a respirator with gas/vapour filters, the amount of paint you'll see on the filters after just a couple of uses will justify it! I got this kit: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/3M-6000-Half-Mask-Airbrushing-Pack-3M6000ABK.html and am happy with it!
I sprayed without it a couple of times and felt light headed afterwards, and was blowing paint out of my nostrils for a while after, I always use the mask since.
Because of the cats, an extracting painting station is a good idea if you can paint near a window or other outlet for the pipe, but you'd want to self build one with a really meaty fan (sealed bathroom extractor), as the generic kits you can buy tend to have a very low flow computer fan in them that simply doesn't do anything at all.
I have this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Portable-Spray-Booth-Extraction-Filter/dp/B0050BQQUW
And the fan just is nowhere near strong enough. For now I run a normal household fan pointing at the painting area which is right next to an open window.... and hope for the best! At some point I will replace the fan as it really is not good enough right now.
At the very least, a cardboard box to catch overspray is a must.
As for the airbrush itself, I got this kit and its excellent https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00JAJTKWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the compressor and tank are absolutely great, the airbrush is cheap but very cheerful, I may get another for more precise work later but for now it's plenty! Make sure to remove the plug from the bottom of the tank after every use to let condensation drain out and avoid rust.
Useful accessories:
You spray cleaner through the airbrush into this pot as its a harmful chemical when atomised, the pot catches and collects the liquid cleanly and safely. Has a filter where the air comes out.
I hope that's all helpful :)
So what are you planning on painting? Are we talking entire models, or just detail work, or doing mini painting like /r/minipainting?
Reason I ask is that kinda gives reason as to what to buy.
I do a lot of hand painting as do a great deal of warhammer models, for these you need a decent set of kolinksy sable brushes but they're not cheap. I have brushes from the Army Painter, from Windsor Newton, from Citadel all of which aren't cheap. I have a decent set of synthetic brushes for doing lesser critical work but generally stick to sable for detail work. In honesty it's very rare to use a 00/000/0000 brush, the reason is they hold such little paint the paint can dry on them really quickly. You can paint the same detail with a 1 or a 0 as a 0000 if you're careful.
I'd suggest to work out exactly what you're after first, if it's to do entire models then check out videos from the likes of Owen at Quickkits as he brushes all his models.
If I were starting out fresh and wanted a good set of brushes off the bat I'd honestly buy this set by Army Painter. Yes it's not cheap, but it's got decent detail brushes, standard size and large area brushes. It's also got a nice set of coarse drybrushes.
Something else to consider is brush care, afterall you spend a fortune on brushes and then they split etc, it's a really sad day when one of my WN brushes splits.
A few tips from me, never fully load a brush, never fill it to the metal ferrule with paint, in honesty half full is too much imo. Always thin your paint. Routinely rinse your brush and have two pots to rinse. First water pot for a propper rinse, then a second pot to rinse finally. Dry by wiping along a paper towel. At the end of a painting session, take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and use a brush cleaner/preserver like Masters. You don't want paint to dry within the bristles or the ferrule as this will make the brush split, so always keep them wet, don't let paint dry in your brush. Always store horizontally with the plastic bristle protector on, never leave a brush bristle down in a water pot ever. But be prepared that even a really well maintained brush, used a decent amount will die after six-eight months or so.
I am very amateur, but I highly recommend Strong Tone Quickshade, that stuff is amazing and was the easiest part of the process. This is how they came out.
Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:
Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.
I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.
Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).
I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.
edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.
Ok, that's alot to comment on:
- For airbrushing, you actually want to dilute the paint with a thinner rather than just water (random example not an advertisement: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vallejo-Model-Air-200-Thinners/dp/B002X6DTHK/ref=asc_df_B002X6DTHK/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309862953042&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7411493572982788503&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006595&hvtargid=pla-434590355698&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 ) as they change the properties of the paint in slightly different ways (you'll end up with more pooling and a less smooth coat with water). For brush painting, using water to dilute is fine.
The standard response on how much to thin is to get "the consistency of milk", which is always a bit of an odd way of looking at it. It'll also come down to how much pressure you're using (psi) and how far away your airbrush is, it's sort of a triangle of effects. I generally dilute with 1 part thinner to 2 part paint, bit I'm no expert.
- If you want to use green as your main colour go for it (I'm slightly biased, green is my favourite colour). Use a contrasting colour (such as the suggested grey) to pick out certain panels to give the models a bit of interest.
- Unless you have issues with close-up seeing I wouldn't say you need a magnifying glass. The croc clips are occasionally useful but be careful they don't leave dents in the model (i.e. clip to a less important bit or use a layer of padding).
Take your time when cleaning mold lines (especially when using a knife!!) - they're super annoying to find after you've already started.
- Another thing I'll mention is primer - the initial coat of paint on a model is recommended to be this as it has a slightly different chemical properties to stick to the model and provide a smooth surface for other paints.
To add to /u/ZSCampbellcooks said: I've found that a quality tool helps ease some of these pains. I'm not saying go spend an obscene amount on a high end model, get something in the top tier middle. I have 3 that I use: Harder-Steenbeck, Patriot 105, and Master's. I use the 105 the most. It is just so easy to use and produces great results. The Steenbeck is OMG fantastic but I only use it for a narrow band of techniques and the Master's took a lot of work to get to a usable condition. If I'm starting over I'd skip the Master's and Steenbeck until I got real good and I'd purchase the 105 or the Sotar or the Iwata Eclipse. All are highly reviewed and used by pros.
Learning your specific airbrush takes time, especially as a beginner. I got a piece of cardboard and filled the brush with water and practiced. There are youtube videos of pros doing this. Speaking of youtube- watch other people that use airbrushes besides mini painters lot of knowledge out there. Guys that do t-shirts will help with color theory and blending, the model plane/car guys will teach under shading, guys that paint cars can teach fading (there was a guy I saw that did grey smokey skulls on a black motorcycle tank that was legit Louvre quality), on and on.
Anyway, a little long but tldr: get a brush in the middle somewhere and practice practice practice.
And everyone should buy this airbrush cleaner. It's OMG fantastic and won't eat your O-rings in the brush and will even strip paint from your models with out damaging the plastic or resin. I use it all the time, like I bought a case.
I used a mix of Vallejo and P3 paints to paint each color on the figure -skin, clothes, weapons, venom sacs, etc. I then brushed on a dip, specifically Army Painter Strongtone to give them shading and a dirty dark tint.
All the materials might be pretty pricey if you were buying them just for painting up Myth, but it's all stuff I already had lying around from painting other minis games, so...
I get a ton of mileage out of a set of Virtuoso brushes I bought on
eBayAmazon (sorry, brainfart) for like no money. There's an assortment of flats, round, and liner brushes that are great for detail - some are size 2 or 3, large enough for coverage, some are 1, 0, 00, perfect for precision work. I've been using them for about 3 years now and they're just starting to need replacement. Pretty good for what I think cost $15 to start with.Edit: found the link, they're $20 now, but still worth it in my opinion
I highly recommend this package from Amazon if you're in the US. It gives you all the necessary bits for quality miniatures airbrushing along with a great (and pretty quiet compressor).
Koi from Sakura is a good travel pack.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_pjokzbQK1GYFJ
I don't know if they're the cheapest but I buy most of my paints from Miniature Market. Vallejo paints are $2.89 and shipping is usually $6 if your order is less than $99 (otherwise it's free). They have a pretty wide selection so you can pick and choose whatever you'd like. Reaper and Army Painter are a little cheaper per pot. Going this route might end up slightly (like a few dollars) more expensive than buying a bundle with Prime shipping, but you'll only get paints that you actually wanted. IF you're like me and end up buying a bunch, keep a spreadsheet to track which colors you already have. I've ended up with a few duplicates before I started tracking things better. Plus, you can pick up some inks, which if you follow someone like Sorastro (who will eventually be doing a Kingdom Death series), play a big role.
I'd also recommend you get a can of Army Painter Quickshade. The can isn't too big but it will last a long, long, time.
Thank you. I will say that it definitely helps to practice a lot and have good materials. Learning how to highlight a face is a must and there are a ton of videos and tutorials about that. I recommend a good set of brushes (about 2-3 different sizes), I use thePsycho by Army painter and I have used it for the last 2 years for those fine details. I am also beginning to use a wet palette which helps create layers, I usually do about 3-4 different shades. Finally, using a set of magnifying lenses helps a lot. I can give more details, but those are the biggest tips I can give.
I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.
I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.
This should get you taken care of
Premium-Quality 10-Ft Braided Airbrush Air Hose 1/8" - 1/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Q0VZJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TBcWDb0JM8AAG
I’d also recommend getting this
ABESTAIR Airbrush in-line moisture trap mini air filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIB8128/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wCcWDbEJTARFS
I currently have master airbrush and compressor and they work great
Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Markers, Medium Point, Assorted Fashion Colors, 5-Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQ9M04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.VzPzbG1GFJPS
I always use these.
Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth
EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese
I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.
I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.
Vallejo has a really nice starter paint set, 16 colors for $40 US. They're bigger bottles than most (17ml) and in dropper bottles, too. Something like that will be much cheaper to start with than buying Citadel paints individually, and is still a better deal than the Citadel starter set.
Citadel brushes and tools are also mostly overpriced. This brush set costs about as much as one GW brush, and clippers/glue/knife/mold line scraper can all be had for a fraction of the Citadel price too.
I hate to sound like a Amazon Ad but iI got it on Amazon
He is using all of the GW brand brushes, avaliable on their online store and at your LGS.
I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2I29LM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Highly recommend, the "kolinsky" keyword is important. It is a natural hair from a weasel, rather than a synthetic filament. Don't use natural hair brushes with metalics though, the metal chips scratch the hair so it won't stay as pristine as long.
Cheers!
Sorry, I'm not familiar with Army Painter brushes. All I know are the numbered sizes. I would assume that Army Painter would have appropriately sized brushes, though. Maybe someone else here can comment on that.
This is what I bought. They're probably not the greatest, but they've done well, so far.
Best of luck, and I hope to see some more work from you. :-)
Sure, this is the compressor, though I got it for much cheaper :
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=pd_lpo_201_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NWSYXNWF47C4ZZKDSX4H
And I started with one of these cheaper "master" brand air brush :
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ref=sr_1_218?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1484064056&sr=1-218&keywords=badger+air-brush
Mine kept clogging though and I thought it was because I wasn't cleaning it enough, but really I was just a noob and wasn't thinning the paint enough. I followed all these complicated fucking guides on how to make my paint thinner and what to mix with it, and what to clean it with. Turns out the easiest solution was just straight dollar store rubbing alcohol. I ended up buying a nicer badger brush and havn't had any problem since, but I know the truth of it. I wasn't thinning down my paint, and when I was done, I wasn't cleaning it out with alcohol either.
Basically now when I want to change colors, I rinse out the cup, hit it with a paper towel to get out most of the paint, blast full blast with a full cup of water, easing on and off the needle action a few times during. Then I do a quarter cup of alcohol (I have a little cup thing I can spray it into so the alcohol fumes don't gas me out), again easing off and on the trigger to kind of work the action. Then I rinse it out once more and hit with paper towel again. Basically do the same thing to clean it when I am done.
Do yourself a favor and use these brushes instead of Citadel ones:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Sable-Watercolor/dp/B002518D1K
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Miniature-Watercolor/dp/B000OL5L7C
Expensive yes, but you will notice an enormous improvement in your ability to cover fine detail versus the Citadel brushes.
Welcome friend! Airbrush sure is a lot of fun. I don't know your budget but highly suggest getting the best quality kit you can afford. I chose
Iwata Eclipse Hp-Cs Value Set with Hose Cleaner and Paint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00695CY54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A6CjDbF7CC7NV
And it still is a great tool. I got the Ninja compressor. World great. But loud but goes with the territory.
The better the tool, the quicker you learn to paint. Bc you'll know its not the tool but your lack of knowledge causing problems. ☺️
Enamel paints and thinners have some nasty organic solvents. You better have a good spray booth or at least an exhaust fan close to your table. I wear respirator masks and safety goggles too since paint and thinner solvents are volatile. I also use nitrile gloves in order to prevent skin contact with nasty organic solvents. My work desk has an improvised spray booth with a pair of surplus 120mm server fans for exhaust.
Acrylic is safe for skin contact but inhaling airborne particles is another story. It's best have a spray booth/exhaust fan and respirator just to be safe. The solvents are non-toxic though. They are mostly composed of water and some isopropanol/butanol as solvents.
Here's a cheap air brush and compressor set from Amazon that I currently use. I'm trying to cut corners this time since I spent a lot for the kits and paints in the past few months lol. The compressor is rather weak so it might take some time to get used to it. I use it in short bursts since the compressor runs hot.
For enamels, I use 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner since my El cheapo air brush can't sustain constant air pressure. I find Revell enamels to be more suitable for air brushing. Humbrol enamels tend to be too thick and needs more thinner. They can be quite tricky to use. I use Mr. Hobby self levelling lacquer thinner for both enamels and Tamiya acrylics. It smells like hell though so you'll definitely need a spray booth or exhaust.
For Vallejo acrylics, I use a cocktail mix of air brush thinner, air brush flow improver and paint retarder. I use 1 part of that cocktail mix and 1 part Model Air. All of them are sold separately by Vallejo. For Tamiya acrylics, I treat it similar to lacquer and enamel paints. Also, Vallejo polyurethane primers work wonders for both acrylics and enamels. The paint binds well to such primers. You might want to give it a shot.
My tip is to try one technique at a time. Take your time working on a single kit. Start mastering the basics of base coat painting using your air brush. Then proceed to painting multiple coats, camouflage patterns, masking techniques etc. Eventually, work on the weathering process. Also, start with cheap model kits for practice so you won't bleed money for the hobby.
Welcome to the club and good luck!
These are quite handy.
As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.
The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.
Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.
https://www.amazon.com/AW-Portable-Airbrush-Extension-Powerful/dp/B00Y83Y1C8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=model+paint+booth&qid=1563384851&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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I've been using this for a year now. Love it.
You probably have dust from the ceiling falling on your wet paint. Get a big clear plastic container and cover your parts after painting so they stay clean.
DIY is basically plywood, an HVAC filter and flex duct, a big computer fan rigged to a power supply, and some elbow grease.
This is the other option. Which I see has started to come up in cost:
https://www.amazon.com/AW-Portable-Airbrush-Extension-Powerful/dp/B00Y83Y1C8/ref=zg_bs_12898811_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D7375TY52WY9C1JCG2M3
You can do the DIY for half of that, really. You might even have some of the materials at hand, and it doesn't have to be wood. I've seen people do them out of cardboard, but you'll have to worry about all the dust cardboard attracts.
Nope. Here's a link.
For example, this box set contains almost all the colors you will ever need (other than specific ones). https://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Painting-Bonus-Wargamer-Regiment/dp/B01MTXRUUT/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1524496671&sr=1-4&keywords=army+painter
Obvious colors for these models - army green for the green armor, necrotic flesh for highlighting the armor, skeleton bone probably for the pants (may need to add a little brown depending on the color you like), and one of the flesh tones for the skin. They primarily used the dark tone (black) wash on the basically the entire model, I think we could do better. Recommend, flesh wash for skin, dark tone for weapon and armor crevices, and soft tone (brown) for the paints. Khaki pants and black detailing is just too much contrast for my taste.
Side note, Army painter's paint brushes are decent but there are other options. I recommend the Virtuoso paint brush set, that will give you every kind of brush you would need. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3PSN8T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am by no means a tiny figure painting expert, but I primed mine and then used thinned acrylics in layers (not quite drybrushing, but not far from it either).
This brush is a godsend for pilots: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?srs=7513501011&ie=UTF8&qid=1479924643&sr=8-1&keywords=brush
And after you finish putting on paint, use an ink wash (i used Citadel Nuln Oil) to bring out extra texture/detail!
To be honest good brushes are kinda expensive. This brand and range is referred to quite often by people who have been painting a while and as someone who owns one, you get what you pay for. While you can find cheaper brushes, they'll fall apart, lose their point, and by the time you've replaced them a couple of times you've actually spent more money.
Also, looking at stuff on Amazon, would this be a decent kit to get started with? I'm sure the paints are fiarly useless but I've heard good things about the HP-CS and the the extra stuff seem to be a decent deal Vs. buying it all seperately?
Amazon bundle
Stuff that you need:
https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Professional-Sable-Detail-Paint/dp/B01JYVI9RQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?crid=1QBYEIQELDU7R&keywords=kolinsky+sable+brushes&qid=1550882304&s=gateway&sprefix=sable+bru&sr=8-14
And a tub of master's brush soap.
Awesome, that's so good to hear! Thank you.
Is this what you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIB8128/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9wmwCbRYB5GHS
Just dabbled in this myself.
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Used Tamiya clear red to replicate Scotty paint after some research.
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear-Red/dp/B00TT856HG
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If you are only doing letter paint fill enamel paint may prove slightly tougher
Here is the palette that I use but it's a bit excessive for someone that is just starting out.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnb0o11huV2/
For beginners, I would recommend Sakura Koi's watercolor set.
https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-XNCW-30N-Assorted-Watercolors-Sketch/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539787027&sr=8-3&keywords=sakura+koi
It comes with a waterbrush which is great to start off with. For the book I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Art-PTL-018036-Watercolor-Journal/dp/B01MDU3WJK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539787075&sr=8-1&keywords=pentalic+aqua+journals+7x10
I don't really frame my work because I'm too broke. I just leave it laying around my pad, to be honest.
I am a beginner so I bought this and replaced the water brush with two travel brushes.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Uq37CbTT9CHPQ
I use a brush called "The Psycho"
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Psycho/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491323909&sr=8-1&keywords=army+painter+psycho
I know it's probably more difficult to just hand-paint all of the small details, but I enjoy the precision practice, and whenever I paint it's with friends so I don't mind when it takes a while to get something done. I feel more accomplished getting it done by hand and exercising patience in the process.
I also use a slightly larger brush called "Insane Detail" for things that are small but would be too tedious with "The Psycho"
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush-Insane/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=pd_sim_21_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0027SAYW2&pd_rd_r=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC&pd_rd_w=f6p0n&pd_rd_wg=V83HV&psc=1&refRID=1AE9WPGVCPTFD2D47MBC
Honestly keep it simple, people are suggesting quite a bit of different things on here which can be overwhelming.
Pick up a Koi watercolor set and some watercolor paper. I suggest 100% cotton paper, but get whatever you'd like. 2 links below should be everything you need.
Sakura XNCW-30N Koi Field 30 Assorted Watercolors with Brush Sketch Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKABXOA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P6mWDbWD23SV6
Arches 140 Lb CP Watercolor Pad 12 Sheet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EQHJH10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P7mWDbKZR4QNA
So... There are only two of these left, partially because I already shared it to our local group.
Set of 8 sables slashed down to $30. I ordered a set myself and they are very nice. Not like Winsor Newton Series 7 nice, but very nice.
Best Professional Siberian Kolinsky Sable Detail Paint Brush, Value Set of 10, High Quality Miniature Brushes Will Keep a Fine Point and Spring, For Watercolor, Oil, Acrylic, Nail Art & Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2I29LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ea3yybABVZ4E0
here is my set up. nothing to complain about. and the badger 105 is a great starter. its use of good machining means it only has one o-ring and its dead simple to clean.
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Fitting-Conversion-Adapter/dp/B0038NJYHG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9CTBV4FN6C10RQSFJXPG
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354405&sr=1-4&keywords=master+airbrush+1%2F6
then you will need cleaning supplies such as
https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=pd_sim_201_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3SG1JR28SAK6TVWHEZ03
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0SQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505354507&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata%2Bairbrush%2Bcleaner&th=1
I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything and it makes painting a base coat of pure white or yellow super simple. also makes painting a color shift or pattern very easy. if you have the cash i would highly recommend it
here are some of my projects i have completed with it
https://imgur.com/a/N4mhr
Like, fumes from glue or paint?
The glue fumes from say, Tamiya Extra Thin can kind of start to get to you in a small area, but I found once I had a fan on, it wasn't bad.
As far as painting goes, there are purpose built spray booths for airbrushing, with fans in the back for extracting fumes. Something like this is what I have, although it's a little pricy. I think it's worth it because (the one I got at least) has LED lighting built into it so its really nice for visibility. Although if you were crafty, you could probably make something out of cardboard or wood, PC fans and a length of dryer hose, and there are tutorials on youtube if you wanna go that route. LED lighting strips are also pretty cheap if you wanna rig it up for extra visibility. Anything that has a fan to capture the vapor and some where to vent it safely would do.
At the very least, you should get a Particulate Filter to wear while you're painting, and maybe gluing if you're worried about those fumes. Something like this should be fine. I found mine at the local Lowe's but basically any hardware store will have something similar. Just don't get the little masks like you see nurses wear, those don't really cut it.
There is also something like this. The pointy tool can help you pull the gunk out after soaking the nozzle. If you're using acrylic paint just look for something called airbrush restorer to use to soak the nozzle.
https://smile.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=airbrush+nozzle+cleaner&qid=1556373913&s=gateway&sr=8-3
A paintbrush cleaning tank/jar? There are a few different kinds coming up in an Amazon search:
Winsor & Newton Silicoil Brush Cleaning Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ACEI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2endBbEJFRBEQ
Mona Lisa 16-Ounce. Capacity Cleaning Tank (160-017) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UAOEDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UhndBb46Z066V
Naturebelle Airbrush Cleaning Pot, Clean Paint Jar with Air Brush Holder + Nozzle Cleaning Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0indBb23RN51R
Portable Stainless Steel Leak-Proof Premium Brush Washer with Lid and Filter Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07517W32S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CjndBb6S65C6H
Pretty awesome. I use the sharpie oil based markers for my brass. They make a more opaque line that is easier to pick out from the pile or grass. I think they are a little wider than regular sharpies.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VQ9M04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_euo7AbKJ5AM02
A Master Airbrush compressor from amazon is my main work horse. It's got a tank so you won't have a buffeting effect from a tankless compressor. Those run about $60-$70.
I personally use a harder and steenbeck infinity airbrush but the Iwata Neo or a Badger renegade chrome works great too. With the size of mini's we're using a gravity fed airbrush is what you're looking for rather than a siphon fed since we don't really need to keep a whole bunch of paint in the reservoir.
Last recommendation from me is when you're done painting for the day, store your airbrush "wet", which means fill a cup full of water and submerge the airbrush in the cup until you use it next. This keeps any paint that you missed while cleaning from drying out and clogging the brush. Also a good investment is a cleaning kit, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527782597&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrush+cleaning+kit
You can get a tankless one .
It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.
If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.
There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.
Great work especially for a first time job, what kind of ink did you use. you did a great job detailing this, you used a gold gundam marker right. You can use a q-tip and some isapropal alcohol to clean up the few smudges on it. Then again it adds to the weathering look as if it was discolored in re entry. This makes me want to try weathering on one of my Barbatos kits. The Barbatos has quickly become my favorite Mobile suit so have at least one each of the kits except for the high res. Then again the HGIBO has become my favorite line so I have at least one of each kit with the exception of color variants as I do not see the point.
Is this a 1/144 right?
He could use a little dusting thought, then again I should not be talking as I rarely dust stuff myself.
As for painting supplies, you can pick up set at Walmart for around 5-10 bucks. however you do want to get at least testors brand enamel paints. they are good paints that are reasonably priced for plastic model paints and very good.
You can get a testors hand paint set for around $10-15 bucks at Walmart that also comes with a single paint brush and a small bottle of brush cleaner. However, its not the best brush for detail work on gunpla as its meant more for car models. So you would still want to pick up a small pack of brushes from arts and crafts or party section. You do not need super expensive brushes to do good work. the most i have ever spent on a brush was about 8 bucks for this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CBC0PQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This brush's tip is the size of a ruler mark so it is great for lining a 1/144 scale kit.
I bought a set of 10 Kolinsky Sable brushes off of Amazon, which came with sizes from 5/0 to 8. I've done all of my painting so far with just the 1 & 2 and haven't even touched the others yet. The points have held well, no hooking and only the occasional stray hair.
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As someone else with shaky hands, I find proper bracing of my hands helps a lot (as does my gut). Elbows in, forearms braced on my sides/ribs. Left hand holds model holder, right hand first three fingers (thumb, index, middle) hold the brush, the other two touch my left hand to help steady my hands relative to one another.
If you are Canadian, a UK company called "The Society for All Artists (UK)" is selling a few W&N Series 7 Kolinskies on Amazon.ca for even less right now. I actually was looking at both sites earlier today and bought a size 1 and size 0 from amazon.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OL5L7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0013E68T4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The size 0 is from the miniature line, the size 1 is from the normal watercolor line. $11.50 and $17.09 respectively. With free shipping and exchange rate factored in, this was a better deal.
I got this bundle of compressor and iwata HP-CS from amazon for just a bit over 300.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO4X8Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
I've used it for priming, base coating and highlights for my tzeentch horrors so far and it's running fantastic at 20-25 psi.
I haven't used the paints it comes with but the cleaning pot, stir sticks and medicine cups for mixing the paint is a great added bonus!
I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.
I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!
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Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.
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For the compressor, I keep mine at about 18-20 while doing miniatures and it's perfect.
I do 1 drop Improver, 5 drops thinner, and 6 drops primer and have perfect flow.
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Feel free to ask any questions! Good luck!
Hvstle
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_3cR2Ab35KWJ6C do you think this compressor + the iwata neo cn will work?
Not that you're looking for advice or anything, but an easy way to add some real nice detail and durability to minis you actually use in play is to use what's called the "dip" method. Essentially you brush on or dip your mini into either a wood stain or special dip product like this
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Quickshade-Miniature-Painting/dp/B004UVVTXM#customerReviews
The dark pigment works its way into the nooks and crannies of the mini, then dries and makes the details really pop. Then you spray a light coat of spray matte varnish on the mini which takes off the gloss from the dip.
Not only does this give your minis some added depth but the two layers also protect the paint so it doesn't scratch or flake off, making them way more robust in actual play. Plus it's super easy so you could do all your minis in just an hour or two. Just some friendly advice.
Looking for opinion on an airbrush to buy narrowed it down to these three.
Iwata HP-CS
Iwata Revolution CR
Paasche TG-3F
Depending on what you thin your paints with/what you clean your airbrush with: Yes.
(Personally, I try to avoid inhaling atomized windex, but that's just me.)
There are commercial grade solutions to this, such as this paint booth here that I use and love personally, or you could build your own solution with a cheap fan and $5 of tubing from the hardware store.
You'll need a compressor as well.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Tankless/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9
They look awesome. But I think I know whats missing. The reds are just orange. Get some Tamiya X27 Gloss Red. It makes very vivid blood effects. I think adding that in places would really bump up the contrast.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Acrylic-Gloss-Clear-TAM81027/dp/B00TT856HG
Just picked this one up and is easily my new favorite :http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-BR7014-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ/ref=pd_sim_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31FVNPsPVVL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=01J1J8QXPE6VK2FXDEBP
otherwise I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargamer-Insane-Detail/dp/B0027SAYW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1465105608&sr=1-1&keywords=wargamer+insane+detail
If you feel you're going to use the paints get the paints. It's better to have them and not need them then need them and not have them. Vallejo is good with muddy tones, especially their amazing greens. Army Painter is great with warm colors, pastels and creamy brights. So I'd say it depends on weather you want your models to look warm or cold in a general sense. Ultimately, I'd choose both. They're both great paints for the price.
Yeah chances are even if we had the brands of brushes you're used to they wouldn't be the same kind of value you had back in Europe. I got a set of synthetic brushes a lot like these nearly two years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Professional-Sable-Detail-Paint/dp/B01JYVI9RQ/ref=sr_1_45?keywords=Synthetic+Sable&qid=1566600966&s=gateway&sr=8-45
I've just started to splay my 0 brush and the rest are looking pretty rough. But it was a good investment overall.
I just got this about a month ago. I'm in love so far. Good kit to get you everything you need to start.
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-Airbrush-Compressor-Instructional-Quick-Connector/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396252600&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+hp-cs
https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-X27-Gloss-Clear-Red/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510068044&sr=8-3&keywords=tamiya+clear+red&dpID=51%252BjaWDTQ-L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
this?
Thanks for the input everyone, I think I'm going to go with the iwata hp-cs once I get the money. I found this bundle on amazon which comes with the iwata and compressor and seems like a pretty good deal. Thoughts?
Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:
Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I9WXOKVZTYMO3
Compressor: Not sure which one to get?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I10JZK102OKEGV
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=IOQHMHZT48RDP
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I3DYP4EJGJ9917
Spray booth:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I2LP8DLJI9UTR9
I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.
I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.
If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.
What kind of paint are you spraying? If it's not acrylic, he's probably right.
There's also this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/AW-Portable-Airbrush-Extension-Powerful/dp/B00Y83Y1C8
...but in general, airbrushing in the garage may be a better idea in general, just for the sake of not ever spilling paint on the carpet or whatever.
You really should. Relatively cheap to get into.
Master Airbrush Compressor with Water Trap and Regulator, Now Includes a (FREE) 6 Foot Airbrush Hose and a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BJFHAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IGoBCb7ZSM1K1
ABEST 3 Set Airbrush Spray Cleaning Repair Tool Kit Stainless steel Needle Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFBJGRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QHoBCbTPZHK9X
You can use any paints but you’d need to thin some. I use citadel, Vallejo model/air/mecha, scale 75, and army painter. They all flow through the brush with different amounts of thinner.
The above airbrush isn’t the best but it’s a good starter setup to try out airbrushing to see if it’s what you’d be into.
Which clear? If anything other than X22 it may frost, because it is not gloss.
Humidity and moisture from your compressor is usually the culprit. You should have something like this in line from the regulator to the airbrush.
I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.
Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.
I got the shelves here.
For Christmas, may I suggest a set of Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes? It's hard to suggest without knowing what she already has/wants/needs.
TAIWANESE builders, I need your help!
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I'm an international graduate student who moved into a dorm in Nangang 2 months ago. Since I'm in a dorm, I've been hand painting, but man no matter how smooth a finish I get, it still doesn't compare to an airbrushed finish. So I need help looking for compressors. In particular, I need to find something tiny and quiet.
At the very least, I need to find something like this. Looks very suitable for a dorm. If anyone can point me to a store that sells an Iwata Power Jet Pro that accepts payment with foreign credit cards, that would be great too!
So basically I need something very quiet and with a size ranging from a mini compressor to an Iwata Power Jet Pro (I think its length is around 30cm). If anyone has other recommendations, go ahead!
What would you recommend as a good middle range brush? I got a pack of Meeden Sable brushes from Amazon. Their usefulness and lifetime varies wildly.
Hey! I began airbrushing only last year, so I was looking for a cheap starting kit. And for now, this hardware is perfect for my needs:
https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Compressor-Airbrush-Painting-Manicure/dp/B078J1FBVG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1TJ68R39WI5PG&keywords=airbrush+kit&qid=1558961902&s=gateway&sprefix=airbrush%2Caps%2C1101&sr=8-4
For 40 bucks it's a real bargain.
I recommend this one because it's cheap and gets the job done.
PointZero Portable Airbrush Air Compressor Tankless Oil-less 1/5 HP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNBVM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e6c3CbH2BCW5E
I see two different Iwata Eclipse listed on Amazon with a price difference of $5? Whats the difference and which one should I get?
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https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpID=51odG-D4KWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
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and
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https://www.amazon.com/d/Airbrush-Materials/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/B000BQKFAI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+eclipse
I can use it straight from the bottle when I am working in a room temperature environment that is fairly dry.
Thinning 1:1 is pretty extreme. If that's not your problem, you might have some buildup in your nozzle.
Here is a link to an airbrush nozzle cleaning tool. It ships from China so expect like a 2 month wait, but it's cheap. You can probably get one from a hobby or art supply shop for around $15 if you don't want to wait. https://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-Cleaning-Repair-Stainless/dp/B00UFBJGRM/
Here is a video on how to use them:
https://youtu.be/3G8mTmU6M_8
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Miniature-Watercolor/dp/B000OL5L7C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459461613&sr=8-2&keywords=windsor+newton+series+7
As a beginner you really should be fine just with an 0 until you get some big tanks etc, but if you have money burning a hole in your pocket go with an 1, 0, and 00. that will last you a while and they are very nice brushes. Dry brushing can be done with pretty much any cheap, small, flat brush from a local art store (if you have a joanns nearby you can often get stuff for 50% off with coupons.)
Once you really start to get into lots of bigger models
Looks like there is no size 2 in that set, but it still would be fine to get because there are a variety of small sizes, so you can decide what you like to use. If you don't like them, it'll be okay because when you do decide to buy nice brushes, you'll know more what you like and want.
I hope you don't mind my saying, but if you'd rather get something someone else has tried, then I recommend these. I got them for Christmas, because there were so many good reviews, and have not been disappointed. They're holding up way better than the citadel brushes I bought, too.
They're not the best quality (two of mine came with warped handles and I had to trim the tips of some), however I recommend them because I use them all the time now.
They have sharp points, they don't splay out right away like the citadel ones did, in fact the bristles stay clumped together very well, I don't worry about wearing them out fast because they were cheap, using them is so smooth, it's great, and they hold a good amount of water and paint. As a bonus, they come with a carrying case!
Happy painting!
Thanks for the detailed reply! I'm gonna run a few potential purchases by you if you don't mind. I'm looking at this Sakura Kai set. As a total beginner should I be looking for one with more/less colors? I also figured I'd need more than the single brush that comes with it so I was looking at these but I don't know if those are the right sizes. They seem to all be pretty narrow. And lastly was looking at this notebook. Seems to be a good size for me as I want to mostly try land/cityscapes or just objects.
To clarify, a watercolor pencil will allow you to sketch the shape which then disappears but you use a fountain pen which doesn't disappear right? Is that just so you can add bold linework before/after the watercolors? Both sound pretty cool but at the same time seem to serve different purposes.
This is all going on my wishlist by the way which is why I'm linking to amazon. My family is a bit odd in that everyone just checks amazon wishlists for gifts lmao. Practical if a little uninspired.
Has anyone tried this set? The price seems too low to be legit kolinsky sable brushes.
I airbrush all my bodies. I basically have this setup. IWATA is a decent brand. It's amazing what you can do with airbrushing as opposed to rattle cans. ALSO note that the createx paint is good for lexan. It's flexible and won't chip. You may need 5 or more coats if you're going for a good covering.
You really get what you pay for on what rig you go with. You want a nice easy to clean gun, a good solid compressor, so you maximize your time painting and not pissing around cleaning, changing psi's, spattering, needle centering, spray patterns. Try not to cheap out on it. You won't be sorry. I also built an indoor spray booth for <$100. But that's for another post.
Here and Here is first body I did freehand. I use liquid mask by the gallon....
GOOD LUCK!
I've never spray painted before but I want to get a set up for life so I don't have to rebuy anything, after reading a lot of posts here I've decided to get the Iwata Medea C+
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493708624&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=iwata+c%2B
I'm still a bit confuse on what other tools I need to get started, I'm not sure what to air compressor to get but I would like to get one with a tank so that it doesn't make noise, or doesn't have to constantly be on.
I think I may also need a spraying booth so the paint won't linger in my work room. If anyone can guide me on what to get for a complete set up or if a different brush might be better that would be great
tyty
I appreciate all the help! The Krome seems a lot cheaper, but the Iwata sure is getting a lot of praise. I'm leaning towards the Iwata atm...
This is the HP-C Plus right?
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478587306&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=iwata+hpc+plus
Also, could you please link me a .2mm needle/nozzle? I couldn't seem to find any. Thanks so much! :)
I have a Badger Renegade Krome and love it for detailed work. That said, I've been asking for recommendations too, since mine was fouling on metallic flake (https://www.reddit.com/r/Gunpla/comments/3xqoem/airbrushes/).
Make sure that when you look at compressors that it comes with a sizable tank. This gives the air time to cool - preventing some condensation - and can help limit spattering. Also, you need at LEAST 10' of hose and I STRONGLY recommend a second water trap at the airbrush. Something like: http://www.amazon.com/ABEST-Airbrush-moisture-filter-AB-F4/dp/B00HIB8128/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450736112&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=inline+water+trap
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-1770459/dp/B003VQ9M04
So, you could start with this (this is what I started with, and while it tends to clog, it does the job):https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958546&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=masters+airbrush
But if you want to dive in head first...I recommend the below:
https://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958546&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=masters+airbrush
& https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520958642&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=iwata+hpcs
As for accessories - get yourself some m3 masks, gloves, medea airbrush cleaner https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Airbrush-Cleaner-16-Oz/dp/B003TJA0S6/ref=pd_sim_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B003TJA0S6&amp;pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&amp;pd_rd_w=sFOW8&amp;pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51, and one of these https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Cleaning-Needle-Nozzle-Holder/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=pd_sim_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0154HN2NA&amp;pd_rd_r=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51&amp;pd_rd_w=sFOW8&amp;pd_rd_wg=8bTp7&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ZNFGCQKPJZHMJ0HX1Y51
This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT856HG/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_W2uPAb9TB5ZX2
Its actually a translucent red acrylic paint. You can get pretty much any color you want. Put two coats of it on the backside of the "glass".
https://www.amazon.com/Virtuoso-15-Piece-Paintbrushes-Handmade-Detail/dp/B01M3PSN8T/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481925113&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=detail+brush+set
You would think these would be bad for being so cheap, but if you take care of them they'll last a decent amount of time, and won't break the bank. You'll be surprised at how much easier it gets with the right brushes. Keep going and you'll keep improving!
Jeeze, It feels like i'm biting off more than i can chew with this lol.
Would this get me most of what I need?
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449424905&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor
and I think I'm going to go with this for the actual brush:
http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449370777&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=iwata+airbrush
Iwata HP C Plus airbrush
It is a great airbrush to start with. You need to spend some money because if you go too cheap you will not be able to do fine detail work.
http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449370777&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=iwata+airbrush
I've been strongly recommended to pick up a couple of Windsor and Newton Series 7 brushes to start painting with instead of the Citadel Brushes. I'm looking at them on amazon, and there's two different kinds: Series 7 Miniature and Series 7 Watercolour. I can guess from the name which version I need, but I just wanted to check before purchasing them.
Miniature
Watercolour
Series 7 breaks down into regular brushes and Miniature brushes. Miniature ones will say 'Miniature' on it and they're all far fatter shaped than regular watercolour ones.
See miniature versus non-miniature
I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.
This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Naturebelle-Airbrush-Cleaning-Holder-Nozzle/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=sr_1_25?keywords=airbrush+jar&qid=1572016667&sr=8-25
Failing to get reflective, mirror like finish. What am I doing wrong?
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I've been trying to learn how to spot correct paint for the last several months now, with the goal of doing some paint repair on my 2015 Honda Accord (purchased recently), that some people (who don't know how to park/drive) damaged while it was parked.
I've been practicing on a Honda CRV fuel cap that I purchased on ebay. Unfortunately, it's not looking so good. Like, I've learned how to fix almost any kind of scratches in the clear coat. But I'm failing badly at painting a spot and having that spot match the rest of the OEM paint.
The problem I'm having is that after the spot correction (i.e, painting & clear coating) the finish is matte and not the glossy, mirror type finish that's on the rest of the panel.
See the pictures:
https://i.imgur.com/vgQMXWt.jpg
Album with several pictures and Iv'e circled where I've painted:
https://imgur.com/a/R4XSVVP
I can't figure out why it's matte. I wet sand, and then I buff with rubbing, polishing and scratch removal compounds- and this gives the OEM paint areas a mirror like reflective shine, but if anything the area that I painted just turns more dull and matte.
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Here is a list of the specific products that I'm using that can help diagnose whatever the issue is here (or maybe it's that I'm using one or more wrong items that is causing this?) -
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- I'm painting using an air brush + small compressor I got from amazon for $40, which means I thin the paint (NH731P Crystal Black Pearl that I purchased from ebay) using a rustoleum lacquer.
- This is the Rust-Oleum clear coat that I'm using:
https://i.imgur.com/du8qjS8.jpg
- This is the buffer that I'm using (it's not the fancy, expensive buffers that the professional autobody shops and detailers use):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-120-Volt-6-in-Waxer-Polisher-6010/203585856
- This is the airbrush compressor kit I'm using to paint base and clear coat with:
https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Compressor-Airbrush-Painting-Manicure/dp/B078J1FBVG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=airbrush+compressor+kit&qid=1554882651&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-5
- This is the paint I'm using:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/331423642209
...and that covers most of it.
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Anyway, I was thinking that maybe it was the clear coat I was using, which is on the more cheaper side and maybe that's why it's leaving a matte finish. But then I remembered that I clear coated the entire fuel cap not just the spot that I painted (just so the spot blends and doesn't leave a border). And you can see that the rest of the fuel cap where I clear coated still has that reflective finish and isn't matte, so that's not it.
So, basically I'm confused and I'd really appreciate any help and suggestions that you can give.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-Wargamer-Brush/dp/B009CBC0PQ
Nice. I also added an additional moisture trap in the line to my set up. (ABEST Airbrush in-line moisture trap mini air filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIB8128/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_53f9ub01B5W2N
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIB8128/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_53f9ub01B5W2N)
If you want some better looking fresh blood spatters I'll let you in on a secret:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TT856HG
That stuff is THE shit.
I purchased this guy for $64.82. It was an Open Box unit on the Amazon Warehouse Deals. Literally, still shrink wrapped, just in a different box. No damage. Usually a $200-250 air compressor. I was given my first airbrush (my daily driver) as payment during a commission. It is a Badger Patriot 105. I was intimidated by it for over a year and then I decided to jump head first one day and honestly, I haven't looked back. Only regret was not starting sooner. Amazon has the Badger Patriot 105 on sale for $75. At the beginning of the year Badger Airbrush company ran a Happy 54th Birthday Sale and I picked up the Badger Renegade Krome for $54 haha. It retails for $200-250 but Amazon has it on sale for $102. I have yet to use this guy yet, but I am nearing the end of a project and I am going to give it a whirl in a couple weekends. The Airbrush hose for the badgers are listed as well.
My Compressor:
Alternative Compressor 1
Alternative Compressor 2
My 1st Airbrush
My 2nd Airbrush
Compressor Hose
With that being said, you can find deals ALL OVER THE INTERNET....you just have to look for them. I am always scowering the web for the best deals possible haha. For the past 3 years I have been using a 5hp construction grade pancake compressor with a moisture trap. Let me tell you....I REGRET not upgrading to an airbrush compressor much sooner. The air is more consistent, you can fine tune the correct PSI and it is exponentially more quiet. I personally don't care about the tank feature, but that is a personal preference.
Hope this helps you all :D
-B
That's the normal series 7, not the miniature one. "Correct" depends what you're after really, as was pointed out in this thread, the normal ones are apparently what mini painters prefer.
This is the miniature one:
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Miniature-Watercolor/dp/B000OL1UUY/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526908926&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=series+7+miniature&amp;dpID=11XlfUS2k9L&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
i use sharpie pens. Never had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VQ9M04/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Great job for your first time.
Also, can't go wrong with this brush. Get the #00 size.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OL5L7C/ref=yo_ii_pd_dx_gc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=11REzLdorfL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_SL500_SR100%2C6_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5F5DJJ2M74C7QP6YJM2H
I did this guy with it... https://i.imgur.com/i9WTUCy.jpg
The sharpie he is having a problem with is probably one of these Sharpie Oil Based Paint Markers. I don't think your idea to use spit would work, or that it's "super easy to get off glass".
The reason I suggested glass is because as far as I know that's what the LCD screen surface is made of. There might be a coating too.
Windex works similarly to lye. The ammonia dissolves in water to create ammonium hydroxide whereas the lye is sodium hydroxide. In both cases, the hydroxide deprotonates fatty acids, which makes them soluble in water.
Your idea to try nail polish remover (acetone) is a good idea.
I just bought my first setup about a month ago. One thing I bought when i rounded up supplies that i'm glad i did is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0768YF28G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It doesn't have to be this set, but get two bottles like this. Makes the clean up a breeze.
I use the small bottle for airbrush cleaner and the other with distilled water, the small nozzle helps get it out of the threads and guts.
One other thing, i'm not sure if you are in United States, but if you are Hobby Lobby has a basic Vellejo air color set with 40% discount coupon it was 12$ for 8 colors.
Don't bother with these, its useless crap IMO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UFBJGRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I really like the Sotar 20/20 I got. I watched a few reviews on YouTube before buying one.
At first, I got a cheap $80 kit that came with a brush and small compressor, just to test the water, but using them were a pain. The brush would clog often, the paint was applied inconsistently, and the compressor was hard to regulate due to not having a PSI indicator.
I'd recommend splurging on a good brush, like the 20/20. Watch a few video reviews to see what you like. Iwata brushes were also highly recommended. If you go to a physical store, like Hobby Lobby, you might be able to find a coupon or discount. I heard Hobby Lobby has coupons for up to 50% off some expensive items, but I got mine online via Amazon card financing.
I'd also highly recommend getting something like this to make connecting/disconnecting easier. It's a minor thing, but it's so convenient I can't go back to screwing/unscrewing the hose manually.
Besides that connector, here are the items I got. I've been very happy with them and actively trying to find excuses to use them more.
The hull colors are the Warcolours Warm Grays.
The metallics are Metallic Black and Metallic Sand (also from Warcolours) and Leadbelcher.
The lenses are a base of silver with coats of either Tamiya Clear Red or Tamiya Clear Yellow.
Here is the mobile version of your link
I have fallen in love with this brush set, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3PSN8T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They even have air bubbles inside the handle so they float!
I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.
As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.
Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3
Cheap Detail Brush: Brush
Why are you using such crappy brushes?! Get some kolinsky sable-hair brushes. I've used my brushes every day for a year and tips look better than that. I mean, you did super great with what you got but it will make your experience much more pleasurable.