(Part 2) Best computer networking hubs according to redditors
We found 1,458 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking hubs. We ranked the 462 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Those look like easyget led buttons. I found the best way to get them to work is triple check the wires to each. There is a guide in the box to make sure you wire them right.
I also used this powered USB hub to take the stress off my raspberry pi
D-Link 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub including 4 Fast Charging Ports, mini USB 2.0 Port and 5V/2.5A Power Adapter (DUB-H4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B7DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k42mDbDJK63VA
I bought one of these and have been fairly impressed with it. The first one I got would just power itself down every 15 min or so, so I exchanged it. The second one has been good (one stuck pixel but I don't mind).
The all-metal case is good without much flex. The IO is pretty solid, with two USB-C ports, one USB A 2.0 port, MicroSD, and of course its own small barrel port for the power brick, but you can also optionally charge it over USB-C including with one of those breakout USB-C hubs with Power Delivery and that simultaneously gives you HDMI out, Ethernet, and such (I do this currently using this USB-C PD charger and this hub. There are cheaper USB-C hubs but I wanted one with HDMI and Ethernet output as well as Power Delivery input so I could plug everything in with the one cable).
The keyboard is decent and the layout is right to me, although it's not backlit. The touchpad is basically garbage but I don't mind since I use an external trackball. The screen is IPS and glossy glass with sharp text, but coming from a MacBook or my PowerSpec 1510 laptop, it's rather dim with low contrast. The speed of the machine is fantastic for the price, and the SSD can be easily changed out but I don't know about the RAM. There's no compartment to open just for that and I don't know how to get to it otherwise. (I may never actually need to, but I did look into it when I got it.)
The touchscreen works, but I disabled it because I wanted it to still work with the lid closed and plugged in over HDMI, and when I would close the lid it started clicking spots all over the screen. After disabling the touch screen input driver in Device Manager, no more issues with that. I don't really know what the battery life is like because I mostly will plan on keeping this plugged in. No bloatware at all. You get prompted to buy/install ESET antivirus when you boot, and if you choose no, it will uninstall even that, leaving you with a 100% clean OS with just drivers and a Winbook wallpaper.
You can probably run some form of Linux on this fine, although I've got no idea whether things like the touchscreen, sleep or the battery meter work. The wireless chipset is Intel and the sound is Realtek so I imagine those are fine but don't know for sure.
Get one of these pluggable ethernet + usb 3.0 hub dongles
http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Portable-Ethernet-firmware-compatibility/dp/B00M7MYFAU/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1415211460&sr=1-14
I'm asking because I have an XPS 15 9560 and a Dell WD15 Dock which works fine.
But I want to get an inexpensive hub for the road / not at my office.
Must haves: HDMI, Ethernet, USB (the more the better but not a huge issue)
Curious which one is working well for you guys?
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Edit: Narrowed it down to these 2:
• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075KHNZXV
• https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07VZLR8G1/
These are the ones I bought. Love em!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0H72DC?
I have a USB c dongle for my macbook(since it only has 4 usb-c ports) that has hdmi, Ethernet, USB, mini sd card, and usb-c pass through for charging. It's great and comes in handy a lot.
Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KwNXCb68C3JAM
Does anyone here regularly process/image thumb drives in bulk?
End user just popped by my cube asking how easy it would be to reformat approximately 10,000 1 GB flash drives.
After a bit of talking, they decided they don't need all 10,000 flash drives reformatted, but now I'm curious how companies manage doing such a thing.
I suspect buying a large USB hub such as this and writing a script to iterate through each device and blank out the partition table and copy an image would be a reasonable approach. But even then, you're looking at plugging in 28 thumb drives by hand and running a script, repeating the procedure approximately 358 times and then not easily knowing which thumb drive is which if any of the partitioning jobs fail and a thumb drive needs to be repartitioned/imaged.
This is the hub/dock that I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWT7MEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've only tried the USB and ethernet, both work well. Changing pass through is working as is battery level. HDMI works, but only tested to 1080p. I'll test on monday with a WQHD display and see what gives.
I tried this DVI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012B58JRM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't work with my 30" apple display, but thats not unusual, as it requires a dual link DVI and is very finicky. Haven't tried it on other displays, as the 30" is really all that matters for me.
I should have read past the first sentence ><, I didn't pay attention to the rules before putting together this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU/Mobo/Ram| Odroid C2 (CPU / Mobo / Ram)| $46.00
PSU| 5A DC PSU| $5.00
SSD| EMC SSD (32gb)| $37.50
HDD | WD 1TB Elements Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBUZG0010BBK-EESN | $49.99 @ Amazon
Case| Odroid C2 Case| $5.00
Monitor | Sceptre - E225W-1920 22.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $84.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Adesso - Multimedia Desktop Keyboard Wired Standard Keyboard | $8.99 @ Directron
Mouse | Logitech - B100 Wired Optical Mouse | $6.35 @ Amazon
HDMI Cable | Rosewill RC-6-HDM-MM-BK-3 6 ft. High Speed HDMI Cable | $3.99 @ Newegg
USB Hub| Powered USB Hub| $10.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $257.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-17 10:33 EDT-0400 |
Rules aside, I'm actually pretty impressed that it's possible to put together everything required for a completely functional ARM based system & 1TB storage drive for $250 now.
It may be because that hub is USB 3.0. Pi's sometimes run into issues with USB 3.0 since the ports on the Pi are 2.0. This is the hub I've used into two different builds and it has worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not a dumb question at all! This board actually has 2x USB 2.0 and 2x USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard (2x USB 2.0 and 1x USB 3.0 on the bottom and 1x USB 3.0 on the right side). One USB 3.0 header is generally used to plug in your front USB ports, while you can purchase brackets for the other ports.
I've got the ASUS Z170-A, which appears to have a remarkably similar layout with just some more ports on the back and extra VRM heatsinks, and I personally use these to get 2x USB 2.0 and 2x USB 3.0 ports on the back:
oh, sorry, what about this?
I bought this one for my MacBook but it also works fine on my Pocket 2. USB C Hub, UtechSmart 6 In 1 USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2ZS1B5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use one from a company called Adam Elements with 2 USB A ports, an SD card reader, an ethernet port, an HDMI port, and a USB C port for charging. It comes with an aluminum chassis that matches the colors of the Macbooks available. These types of dongles are actually available from many brands, this one is just the one that I happened to come across at a store. They are most likely all the same. Here's the Amazon page for the one I use. They can get pretty expensive but it's better than having to use multiple dongles like other users do. Here's one from Juiced Systems that Linus from LinusTechTips has personally recommended in their videos and used daily with his Razer Blade Stealth.
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To my knowledge, there shouldn't be any difference between the ones that take up one port and ones that take up 2 ports (not in any significant ways, at least). IIRC, the 2 port thing is just a trend that Hyperdrive ended up creating because the form factor of their dongle is flush against the side of the Macbook. You could argue that 2 USB ports are a more stable support than just one but then again, a wired connection has more flex than a dongle that connects directly. BTW, if you use a case with your Macbook, you won't be able to use these without making "modifications" to your case.
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Either ways, a lot of higher-end dongles come with USB C ports that replace the ones they take up in case you ran out of ports to charge your device. I highly recommend looking into those if the number of ports on your device is an issue. Try looking at the other products recommended at the Amazon links I linked above as well. I still recommend the one I use purely due the wire being braided, otherwise, they are all the mostly same. You really can't go wrong with any of them.
You will need to buy :
8-port Gigabit Ethernet Switch
An Ethernet patch panel
A punch down tool
A package of at least 6 1-foot Ethernet patch cables.
I am assuming your FIOS router is somewhere near the panel in the pics, because when you are done, you will need to run an Ethernet cable from the back of the FIOS router to your new 8-port Switch. The router doesn't have to be in the same room, but wherever it is, you do have to connect it via ethernet to the Switch.
Instructions :
1). The rooms all terminate into the left-hand panel, you can see the wires at the bottom in the pic. Each ethernet run will have 4 pairs of wires. Currently they are connected to the left-hand board, and then patched over to the right. Telephone wiring only requires a single pair for each line, currently you have 4 pairs to each room. What you need to do is first, buy a LAN line tester. Something like this :
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-TT64202-Cable-Tester/dp/B004Y75B5Y
You don't need to buy an expensive one, that is simply the first one which came up when I googled it. They are very easy to use, you just plug one half into a wall jack via the supplied 6-inch patch cable, and the other half into the matching port on your panel (left-side). Or you could disconnect the RJ45 connector from the matching right-side panel, and plug that directly into the tester. When you turn the tester on, it will tell you if the wires are correctly configured for Ethernet. It is almost certain they are not as telephone config is not the same as Ethernet config. If all 4 lights don't go green, that means you need an Ethernet patch panel. Likely only one light will turn on indicating only 1 pair was found (that's OK, read on...).
Here is what you are going to need to buy :
https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=ethernet+patch+panel&qid=1573655221&s=electronics&sr=1-11
Again, doesn't have to be that one, but that is designed to provide RJ45 ports for Cat5e which is exactly what you have. Read the top comment on that page, someone named Daron Levy. That person did exactly what you need to do and even provided a shopping list of tools.
2). Remove the cover off of any Ethernet jack in your house, like the one in the first picture. Figure out which wiring config was used to attach the wires, either 568A or 568B. The back of those female ports all have a diagram showing the two possibilities, the only difference is the orange and green pairs are interchanged (brown and blue are the same in both A and B). You should be able to tell which was used by matching up the diagram on the port to the wires you can now see. Once you figure out which was used, use that everywhere.
3). It is not difficult, but what you need to do is detach each of the sets of wires from the phone board on the left hand side. That will give you 4 sets of wires per room. Using a punch-down tool, punch the wires into the new Ethernet patch panel using either 568A or 568B configuration, whichever one you figured out was used in step 2.
4). After the first room is punched into the new patch panel, test it with your tester. If you get all 4 green lights, you have successfully connected the line. You now have ethernet from your new patch panel to your room.
5). Plug a 1-foot ethernet patch cable into your newly working jack on the patch panel, and the other end into a 4 or 8-port switch. Then plug the Switch via Ethernet into your Fios router, and you should be golden. Repeat for each room.
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Here are the details of your telephone patch board :
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47609-EMP-Telephone-Patching-Expansion/dp/B000U3BVNW
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EDIT - One more thing to add. Do not assume you can reuse those patch cables I see in your picture, they are almost certainly telephone patch cables with RJ45 connectors. They look like Ethernet, but are not. Use your tester, take any one of them and plug it in between both sides of your tester, I am willing to bet that all 4 green lights will not light up. Instead you'll get at most 2 green lights indicating they are wired for phone connections, not for Ethernet.
Yep, you can! Here's what I'm currently doing: https://imgur.com/a/e85b2
I am using this USB-C hub: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Ethernet-Delivery-Network-Adapter/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520021842&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;keywords=hootoo+usb-c+dock+ethernet
I don't have a surface dock and won't be buying one purely because of its low charging power output.
u/icedx2: I'm not sure if you ended up getting this dock but it's working great for my needs. Time to upgrade to a 1440p monitor...
Purchased this a few times (I keep leaving it on campus 😔) and used it with the Apple 87watt charger pretty regularly. Works pretty well. I haven’t been able to really push the 100w PD capability since all I have is 87w and 60w adapters on me at any given time. Small warning that the input cable is pretty stiff so it doesn’t bend much.
My only issue has been with Hdmi + LG TVs at Hilton’s across the US. Sometimes it doesn’t output and what regularly works is to flip the plug. Works fine with LGs at other hotels so not sure what’s going on 🤔😛
HooToo USB C Hub, USB C Adapter with Ethernet Port, 4K HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, 3 USB 3.0 Ports for MacBook Pro & Google Chromebook & and More Type C Laptops - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xbj2Db0YXA7XQ
The important parts of lipos are already completely enclosed. As for micro USB ports, consider using a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-Black-Plastic-Cover-Micro/dp/B00E0H72DC
HooToo ftw! (I have the same hub for my Surface Go.)
Edit: linked it above in case anyone is interested in the model.
I've had very good results with this Hookoo port expander. It works quite well with both a MacBook 12" and my Acer Chromebook Tab 10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KHNZXV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can get them on Amazon.
Pretty cheap and you get a handful of them, so you don't have to worry when they eventually falls off.
For anyone worried about the USB port https://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Black-Plastic-Cover-Micro/dp/B00E0H72DC
I got this one this one , still a good price and has a coupon
Doesn't have an SD card reader, but this is much cheaper and the one that I use: https://smile.amazon.com/HooToo-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery/dp/B075KHNZXV
I also daisy-chained a standard Type-A hub to it for a few extra peripherals, but that's all hidden with some decent cable management.
I personally decided against the style that you linked to because:
Well if you plan on hooking up an external hdd to it, you are going to need a powered USB hub such as this or this for example.
I prefer a lego case, because it's easy to add more modules for a USB hub and stuff. But this kit looks pretty awesome! If you want a usb hub, this is what I got. It powers the Pi and adds 3 more usb ports!
So other than having 3 less usb slots and not being aluminum why is this one half the regular price?:
https://www.amazon.ca/SuperSpeed-USB3-0-Adapter-Chipset-Windows/dp/B00CBEVTIA
I need to get one of these but I don't understand how the pricing on them works.
I'm Canadian, so I switch .com to .ca and the price doubles from $25 to $48.70
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004F38WT4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1FSV7J7JAX7PF&amp;coliid=I139D8YNDNYZ7O&amp;psc=1
Why?
Sorry for the late reply. Didn't use the laptop much during the weekend. Attached are the scaling images you requested. Not sure how much help it will be watching on a different monitor, but you be the judge of that.
Link to Scaling > Thinkpad X1E 4K Display Scaling in Windows 10 . As for Display panel, HWInfo doesn't show anything. I went to device manager and was able to get the Hardware Id for the display which happens to be "MONITOR\LEN4180". The display is truly gorgeous btw. :-) . From where I bought it, I had the option to have it calibrated at the factory. If you want the colour profile file, please let me know.
Here is how I'm setup for my work area > I have a HooToo USB C Hub that I use to connect to my 24inch 2560X1440 display. I power the HooToo hub with a 65W USB C Charger (one that came with my X1C) and when I connect the X1E, I get the "Slow USB Charger" warning. But it does charge the laptop, slowly rather, but I am not complaining. The hub provides PD up to 100W so I could technically use a higher powered USB C charger I suppose. It is not all seamless, like you have to power cycle the Hub after restart and such, but my expectation out of a sub $50 hub is rather low. So I'm fine.
Now onto the issue of scaling between monitors > Yes some of the apps get fuzzy when you move from one screen to another. But in my daily use case, around 95% of the apps I use, scale quite well. File Explorer, Visual Studio, OneNote, Browsers they all behave fine. Also, if you only use the external monitor when plugged in, then you eliminate all scaling issues. I always use both the laptop screen and the Monitor together while working, as I prefer the extra screen, and I can very much live with this minor scaling issue. I also heard a lot of noise about 2 monitors with different resolutions causing havoc in Windows, but personally, I don't get what the big fuss is about. I suppose Windows 10 fixed a lot of issues that existed in the past. To summarize, I am using an external monitor which has a different resolution from the 4K laptop screen and I have no complaints.
Regarding Noise > It has only been a couple of days and still windows is going through hoopla to install updates and what not, so from time to time fans do come on. Also, the fans are on when I'm like watching 4K YouTube or Netflix etc. But they are not like super loud (jet engine) and since I use headphones at least 90% of the time when watching movies/shows, it doesn't bother me as well. I rather like the fact that the fans keep the bottom of the laptop cool. X1E is lot more comfortable to keep on my lap than my X1C6. Also I hated the heat coming out on the right side on my X1C, no more of that annoyance. There is a faint "coil whine", but in order to hear it, even in a absolutely quiet room at night, I have to press my ear firmly on the keyboard. Only then I can hear some static noise. In other words, yes it is there, but doesn't bother me a bit. I guess these things are all subjective. For someone else, it might be a deal breaker. For me, I didn't even look for it, until I read about it in your question.
In my Limited use for last couple of days, I have not found any lag/latency when using the X1E, with or without the external monitor. Also on this regard, it is worth mentioning that I am only using stock 8GB at the moment, haven't upgraded the RAM or the SSD yet.
Now here comes the bad parts > First of all, the Network Card keep disconnecting and this problem is affecting me more than anything. Most of my work are Web/Internet based and I simply can't live with a scratchy connection. It has already happened, where it disconnected inside filling out an online form and I had to start over. Still scratching my head as to what I can do to make it go away. Remember I said that these "Issues" are subjective. Like the coil whine doesn't bother me at all, it is almost non existent for me, but this WiFi issue is a "Deal Breaker" for me. Unless I can fix it, I will have to send it back. >> This just happened after I finished the post and hit "Reply" only to notice that I was not online anymore. Sucks. <<
Second thing is the TrackPoint Mouse buttons, specially the Left and the Middle buttons are problematic. They don't register clicks unless you push hard. I am a heavy TrackPoint user and this I can't live with either. I have already filed a case with Lenovo and expect them to replace/fix it.
Ok rather a long post, and I had to write in a hurry, so if I missed any of your questions, please let me know. Hope my answers help you make the right decision. Cheers.
[Edit: Spelling, Grammar]
so for the first time in a long time, I disregarded my mother's advice on "if it sounds too good to be true...." and bought this on amazon
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https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery-Network/dp/B075KHNZXV?ref=ast_p_ep
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I don't understand how it's only $9.99 but fingers crossed that it is legit.
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487702186&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=satechi+usb+c
the one I use
I use a Plugable hub with mine and have been able to successfully get multiple audio devices to all work seamlessly in iOS 8 and now 8.0.2.
However there have been problems with audio apps across the board, especially with midi, and many still don't work with AudioBus. It's very possible that it's a software bug in the Launchpad app.
USB C Hub, TOTU 8-in-1 Type C Hub... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Power supply from the MBP plugs right into the hub.
I'm very happy with my matebook x pro. I had it last year when it first came out. If you do a lot of coding, you will find the keyboard to be pleasant, it's not perfect but it's decent. Now, I don't know about the newer one (2019) I haven't read any reviews about linux for the newer model.
TBH this laptop didn't have any major issue with linux when it first came out, it's just these small bits and pieces. Except maybe the fingerprint sensor that needs some work. I dual-booted Fedora the second day I had the laptop, not a single issue since then.
For a usb c dock, the matebook comes with one that has VGA, usb, hdmi, and another usb-c. I wanted one with ethernet and sdcard so I bought this usb c hub. Now, I usually carry this hub and this VGA to hdmi adapter.
Overall, I don't think you would regret this choice, it's really a solid laptop.
Im not sure if something like this would work for you https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Upgrade-Delivery-Grey/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=K7YH9F8OT8RR&amp;keywords=hootoo+usb+c+hub&amp;qid=1557260610&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=hootoo&amp;sr=8-3
Totu 8 in 1
I have these two and both charges my MBP 15 full speed using a Best Buy Insignia USB C charger.
HooToo USB C Hub With Ethernet, HDMI,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
USB C Hub, ALLEASA 8 in 1 Type C... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWSG8NB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I assume it ahould work with yours too.
Think I found a similarly cheap alternative. http://www.amazon.com/USB-Highspeed-Port-Adapter-Silver/dp/B002FFZGCU/ref=zg_bs_281413_22
Almost certainly not, but if you have a desktop computer and that computer has unused USB headers (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0) on the motherboard, you can buy a bracket that'll connect to those headers and put new USB ports on the back of your computer (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0)
I appreciate the appreciation. I haven't used the charger. With the advent of magnet doors, I just swap batteries. I HAVE looked into getting some microUSB plugs, though; in case of accidents.
http://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-Black-Plastic-Cover-Micro/dp/B00E0H72DC/ref=pd_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41%2BTDi%2BUEuL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1R2WQEA4XDFQSSVCX7M1
http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-Port-USB-Hub-161718/dp/B0074024XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451408333&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=24+port+usb+hub
You mean 3x 24 port USB hubs, right?
If you have a spare header you can buy cheap USB brackets that install into the back or front of a standard PC case. Here is an example (disclaimer - I haven't personally used it).
That said, I would first try just plugging it into one of your USB 3.0 ports, as it may well work fine. The included extension cable is USB 2.0 anyway, so it will only be operating at USB 2.0 speeds.
USB-C converters are a non issue because they are cheap and everywhere. I have like 5 in my bag of different types. You can get insanely good docks now for usb-c. I have a totu one that i liked so much i bought one for my bag solely.
https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Delivery-Portable-Laptops/dp/B07FX2LW35
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Ive had this forever and its perfect and the long cable is amazing
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https://www.amazon.com/Asunflower-Serial-Console-Rollover-Routers/dp/B00KMRVGFO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+to+serial+cisco&qid=1554828013&s=electronics&sr=1-3
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I have used a mac for almost 10 years solely. I would never go back. Another thing that is fantastic about macs is network locations which I use a ton for each site i visit or for new setups that I do.
So I just bought the new XPS 15 2 in 1 with only USB C ports, and I also use a Scarlett 2i2. I had the same question initially. I ended up buying this hub because it had good reviews as far as read and write speeds and it seemed to have everything I could ever need. There was no noticeable latency when recording audio. Unfortunately, however, there ended up being a ton of latency with my MIDI keyboard, I'm talking at least 2 whole seconds. My brother-in-law had one of these laying around and I plugged my MIDI keyboard into that and there was zero latency. I have no idea why the single adapter worked better than the hub, I've seen in some forums that it has something to do with the absence of DC-in on the adapter vs the hub. It might be worth it to look into hubs that can't charge the laptop.
Hope this helps, and good luck on the hunt!
This one is pretty compact http://www.amazon.com/D-Link-DUB-H4-High-Speed-4-Port/dp/B00006B7DA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346822024&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=D-Link+DUB-H4
I just ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JD9GN6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Obviously I can't tell you how well it works because I don't have it yet, but it's cheaper than the one you posted, has more ports, and comes recommended by Linus.
You could try a powered USB splitter. It has a independent 5v power supply so the devices wouldn't have to draw from the dock.
But that's just one possibility. I'm not super familiar with wavebirds or GameCube controllers adapters in general. Why some work on the switch, but others don't is a mystery to me.
Just make sure you got some extra PCIE slots and there is no real bad choice for MOBO.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M3SCTW7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I got this, but you can just get something like this instead https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CBEVTIA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=APCVP767QCJNF&amp;psc=1 Or both.
I am using external HDD's, I spent a lot of time looking into building a tower of just internal hard drives, in like a custom made NAS, but I found while the internal hard drives are a little cheaper it's not really worth it. What I like is if I ever want to dip out I can just sell the external drives on kijiji.
I am working on a build for my miner, currently using my gaming PC but I want something on the side with decent low energy use. What I am going with is the new "AMD - Ryzen 5 2400G" - this means you don't need a GPU since it's built into the CPU, I plan to use a mini ITX with that PCIE 5x 3.0 expansion instead of a graphics card. Now the one draw back of using an APU is it uses your ram for the cpu and gpu so I went with 16gb at a decent speed, FLareX is probably a better choice but I am trying to make this sucker all black inside.
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Bqxxr6
This is just me, but if you plan to build with external and internal, I would recommend NZXT H440 it can fit like 11 3.5" HDD's
What sort of volume of this part to you require?
Do you have size constraints?
There are some commercial products along these lines.
http://minersource.net/products/49-port-powered-usb-hub
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0074024XU?pc_redir=1413978572&amp;robot_redir=1
Do these need to be USB 1.1/2.0/3.0 ports?
Do you need a certain current rating?
If you only need a small volume, your best bet would be to build an application box with daisy chained hubs inside to provide the required I/O. A custom PCB design will likely be cost prohibitive for low volume applications.
Also, I ended up getting this hub and it works well, powers the pi too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/
I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DZYLVKN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The power draw from all the devices on the USB hub might be to much. I had to use a USB hub with its own power adapter, similar to this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00REX6DRK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453091456&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=power+usb+hub
This is the one I found:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DZYLVKN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Note that the USB ports will only be USB 2 speed, as DeX only supports USB 2.
I have this one and it so far it has been working great. I have both my external HDD and LAN adapter plugged into it and have had no issues so far. I'll bet you are looking at USB 3.0 hubs. You only need 2.0 for the Wii U and they are much less expensive.
With the raspberry pi you really have to be careful with USB 3 hubs, most of them don't work... especially the ones that are popular for bitcoin mining.
You'll see the anker 10 port ones all over the place (and some other ones that are exactly the same). Those don't work with the RPi!
Stick to well powered USB 2 hubs. Here are a couple that I own and think are the best for the RPi:
up to 7 miners ($25): http://amzn.com/B004F38WT4
up to 20 miners ($75): http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/270316963.html (Do NOT buy from "Mandela kore" he is a fraudster, I tried to buy one from him since he's the cheapest. Only buy from "SSGI" or "Hariyanto" -- I've bought a bunch from him and he's legit. He's very friendly if you want to open a chat if you have special requests... he found some other cool shit for me in a local market in china. Shipping takes about a week to the US if you get DHL)
Windows 10 would help.. Since that Board does not officially support Windows 7 you will have to find all the work arounds to get things to work..
I only see USB 3.0 drivers for Windows 7..
ASMedia USB3.0/3.1 Drivers - https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/Z370-SLI-PLUS#down-driver&amp;Win7%2064
NOw as to how to GET USB's working right away without the driver? you need USB 2.0 ports.. There are 2 USB 2.0 headers on the motheboard and you would need a USB 2.0 adapter to plug into those..
Does your case have USB 2.0 ports you can plug into the header? most cases have these on the front panel.
or you will need something like this : https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Expansion-Header-Mainboard-Bracket/dp/B00K82WQ7K
They also make little boards you can plug inside ..
I assume by "dex" you mean that you would like a USB-C HDMI adapter that you can use with your Note 9 to connect to an external monitor so that you can use Samsung Dex mode. You'd like a USB-C HDMI adapter that has two standard "large" USB slots that you can plug your keyboard and mouse into as well, and as well as a USB C port with power out. You'd like this to not require external power for some strange reason having to do with your not having a long enough cable from your charger?
The fact of the matter is that a USB-C HDMI adapter, as well as the keyboard and mouse that you'd attach to those slots, require power from somewhere. If you don't plug an external power source into the HDMI adapter, then that power is going to come from your Note 9's USB-C, draining your battery very quickly.
That's why most people will use a USB-C Hub/HDMI adapter that you can plug the power adapter into, and which will do pass-through charging of the phone via the USB-C plugged into the phone. I personally use (and recommend) this one from HooToo with both my Note 9 and Galaxy Tab S4:
HooToo USB C Hub, 6-in-1 USB C Adapter (2019 Upgrade) with Power Delivery, 4K HDMI, 3 USB 3.0 for MacBook/Pro/Air and Type C Windows Laptops(Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_iTxkDbD0D9YG4
I got one from HooToo for my MBP, it works great, and only cost me $35
Here
Are you taking about this one?
HooToo USB C Hub With Ethernet, HDMI, 100W Power Delivery, 3 USB ports USB C Network Adapter for MacBook Pro & Type C Windows Laptops - Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQZ45F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V9QgAbTNG6JE7
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Yea, that's why I'm using a powered USB hub. It has an external 5V/2A power supply. This is the one I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Protronix-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00REX6DRK/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469733902&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=powered+usb+hub
But it seems the problem is the fact that the power supply is non-linear, thus causing interference in the signal. The screen is powered and works just fine, but the touch functionality doesn't. Removing power from the USB hub causes the screen to stop displaying, but allows the wireless mouse to function.
EDIT: Also, it seems that data is also sent through the "power" connection. Plugging the "power" connection into an external power supply and the "touch" connection into the BBB still causes the screen to function, but not the touch functionality.
This is the closest thing I could find. It doesn't seem to give quite as much power as you want though. Look around for powered usb hubs.
For charging, it really doesn't matter what you use as long as each port can provide 5v 800mA. The USB hubs that only provide the standard 500mA for USB will work too, but your phones may exceed the operating specification of the hub if they don't start 100% charged.
My short list when getting a USB hub was:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYXZI4M
http://www.amazon.com/Family-Sized-Desktop-Charger-PowerIQTM-Technology/dp/B00GTGETFG
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-10-Port-High-Speed-RHB-500/dp/B004F38WT4
http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-power-adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4
Based on reviews and forum posts around the web, they all provide the necessary current for 5 devices being charged at once. They're all good enough to power a Raspberry Pi model B, so they're all good enough for some pretty demanding USB load with stable power.
Sounds like a job for a 24port USB hub
What are you mounting it to?
EDIT: also if anyone wants more info on it I found it on amazon looks like the same one
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Highspeed-Port-Adapter-Silver/dp/B002FFZGCU/ref=pd_day0_147_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=9KG1A2D489BPZF5Z0MP5
I use this doohickey
The USB-C on the dock is used for charging.
I normally run Dex without the dock, but with a bluetooth keyboard/mouse combo.
https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/
some 1 foot or 6 inch patch cables
Netgear or TP-link switch with a POE splitter/output box that will power non-poe devices (or get a switch that can be powered off POE)
unless you just loop a connection back to where your home network is.
I installed one of these panels recently, If I remember this post, I'll show you what I did.
Sure, for a powered hub, I would probably recommend this guy:
USB Hub 3.0 Powered RSHTECH 4 Port USB Splitter Portable Aluminum Data Hub with Individual On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMZSRS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fw-IDb175ZHY5
There's also an AmazonBasics equivalent too if he prefers a cheaper option :) I have heard they both work.
Yes, you could find the specific run and cut it and re-terminate. If you terminate with dangling keystone jacks you can fit 8 in a 2-gang plate so you can likely fit that behind a single plate.
There's also compact punchdown blocks like this:
STEREN FastHome Data Hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jktFDbWZ038XT
You should be fine with just a simple USB-C dongle like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Ethernet-Delivery-Compatible-Chromebook/dp/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+c+dongle&qid=1568757531&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlY5UkZUVElGWlVXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzEzNTM3VVJMSlNXWTdRVlRFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMDk2NDAzUks1U0E2TEpLUTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
The advantage of Thunderbolt vs USB-C is that thunderbolt has even more bandwidth. As long as you're only driving one 1080p screen it should not be an issue, and I think USB-C is even enough for a single 4k screen. Thunderbolt is really only needed when doing multiple monitors or external GPU's.
The advantage of the more expensive docking stations is that generally speaking, they also charge your laptop directly. When working with a USB-C dongle like that you will still need to plug your laptop into your regular wall charger. However it is of course quite a big chunk of extra money for a fairly small benefit. If you want the luxury of only plugging in a single cable the expensive docking stations are still your only option however.
So it seems like it may be related to my PC line. It's plugged into one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHNZXV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qlzCDbZGN55ZC
And my network just crashed and I recovered it by unplugged the hub. The hub is powered so is it's possible it's overloading the network/switch?
You'll be using 2 usb ports if you're stationary 99% of the time, you can just buy a small dock. And what uses do you have for USB C *right now*?
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Portable-Ethernet-backwards-compatibility/dp/B00M7MYFAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495287670&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=usb3+ports
For example these hubs list their chipsets and and some have their firmware versions, noticed this when i was looking to replace an old D-Link 7 port USB 2 hub.
Anker USB 3.0 7-Port
ORICO P10-U3 SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Port Hub
Anker USB 3.0 SuperSpeed 10-Port Hub
I know the HooToo one has 100W passthrough, but it has an HDMI output...
Maybe this works?
Strong recommendation to go with Plugable's 3-port hub + AXIS AX88179 based gigabit ethernet:
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Built-In-Gigabit-Ethernet-USB3-HUB3ME/dp/B00M7MYFAU
It's a couple dollars more, but is a hub. The only downside is that sometimes you end up having to put a powered USB hub upstream to feed it. The ethernet chip seems reliably to be the first thing to brown-out, while other plugged in peripherals keep working. Plugging into a powered hub always alleviates.
So it's 3 free USB ports, which will be bulletproof, but the gigabit might die if you DO end up using a decent chunk of power off it. I also have some not-great machines that seem to have noisy ass, perhaps questionable USB bus power, so YMMV/be better than mine.
To me it's definitely worth adding a couple extra bucks for the complimentary hub, even with the hub's gremlins.
If you have problems with your USB ports, get a "powered USB hub" like this one at AMAZON Your problems will likely go away and you will be protecting the ports on your computer.
I use this one:
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https://www.amazon.com/TeckNet-Aluminum-Converter-Ultrabooks-Notebooks/dp/B0178HOTOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540543189&sr=8-3&keywords=tecknet+usb+hub
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I couldn't find any reference to the chipset. I'm a little biased towards havinng ethernet because I'm a software developer.
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I could find this however:
https://support.plugable.com/t/usb-3-0-hub-with-uasp-support/6491/2
Looks like UASP goes OVER USB 3, and is independent of the hub as the protocol is higher level than USB 3.
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Edit: At the time I bought mine I didn't see (or wasn't available) this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-3-0-Portable-Ethernet/dp/B00M7MYFAU/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540542857&sr=1-5&keywords=usb3+and+ethernet
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This one looks pretty cool with the swappable cable. This one uses Realtek RTL8153 and VIA VL817 .
You must've had some bad luck. My
$24$18.99 [Rosewill 10 Port hub] (http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-10-Port-High-Speed-RHB-500/dp/B004F38WT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414286327&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rosewill+10+port) supplies 4 amps and has been working excellent. I've purchased two for my farm and a third for a friend.https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEK/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498406390&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=macbook+pro+ethernet+adapter
MBP has a headphone jack but this is the best I could find
I am a photographer and I can have my external hard drive, flash drives, SD card, and my HDMI cord plugged in all at once. It makes my work quiet, fast, and efficient. It is very well made.
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-Upgrade-Delivery-Grey/dp/B07M6R3CPB/ref=sr_1_66?keywords=usb+c+hub&qid=1557304501&s=gateway&sr=8-66
That card will not work - it requires a legacy PCI slot, you only have PCI express.
Your motherboard should have a USB2.0 header unused. You can use a bracket like this to add two USB2 ports.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap%C2%AE-Expansion-Header-Mainboard-Bracket-Silver/dp/B00K82WQ7K
Not that I know of, unless you have something else plugged in.
Here is a relatively cheap powered usb hub
This claims to be compatible with ps4:
https://www.amazon.com/RSHTECH-Splitter-Portable-Aluminum-Individual/dp/B07HMZSRS7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=powered+usb+hub&qid=1551395287&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
I use this. It is recommended by Linus, and it works really well. However, for some reason USB-C charging will not give full 45W power on my XPS 13, it does still charge though, and I use my original more frequent than 3rd party USB-C charger (it is only for travel since it is smaller than original one). It also gets really warm over time, so keep that in mind.
For cheaper options, you can check linus video regarding best USB-C hubs. I believe Anker have a better hubs if you only need HDMI and Ethernet. There is also Dell DA200, but doesn't have charging pass through.
Two of these oughta do for you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0074024XU/
:-)
Even a really nice one isn't too expensive.
Do you have a phone with USB Type-C? I just bought this multi-port adapter, and I'm blown away with all the stuff I can do with it:
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B01FWT7MEK
It has HDMI-out, Ethernet, a bunch of USB ports, and more. Android "just works" with all the external stuff I've thrown at it. Flash drives, keyboards, you name it. Whatever you end up doing, I think something like this would put you much closer to replacing a PC with a phone.
I'm using a D-Link DUB-H4 bought on german amazon and it works perfectly fine on raspbian (as said model B).
If you have one around I'd test that first tho
Look for one with USB C passthrough charging. This one has everything you need. https://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Ethernet-Delivery-Compatible-Chromebook/dp/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2A359GWPHRO6R&keywords=usb+c+hub+ethernet+power+delivery&qid=1570104084&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+hub+ether%2Celectronics%2C523&sr=8-3
$900. Friend price, he got it before they sky rocketed.
I love it. The screen is gorgeous, the trackpad might be the single best one ever made even compared to a Mac Book Pro. I'm not a huge fan of the keyboard but whatever. I was able to use a one of these and hook up two more monitors (at 3440x1440), keyboard and mouse, ethernet, and power. It all "worked", XFCE being what it is with multi monitor support plus the problems I mentioned above about multi monitors at different scaling. But it was able to drive everything well. I'd like to get to the point where I could use it prime time for work but that's going to mean moving a lot of things remote and while doable, is gonna take a lot of time.
Ya, the FN layer on that is a bit wonky. I always have to look at a cheat sheet every time I want to take a screenshot.
Where is your modem? Are you needing a wireless router installed?
Best practice will be to install a Cat5e patch panel to terminate the wires.
http://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450403863&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=data+patch+panel
I can Punch down and certify the cable to perform at Gigabit speed.
Some pictures of my work:
http://imgur.com/a/nsqM2
A USB hub with a power cord that you plug into the wall. Some have them, some don't. The ones that don't are fine for mice and keyboards. But a portable hard drive gets all its power from the computer and an unpowered hub sometimes gives it problems, it will sometimes eject randomly, even while copying files, or not work at all.
This one is bus-powered.
This one has an AC adapter.
That is a rather generic usb hub, you can find one like that for $5-7 dollars off of amazon or eBay.
http://www.amazon.com/USB-Highspeed-Port-Adapter-Silver/dp/B002FFZGCU
Amazon $4.75 + free shipping.
Something like this (this has no C ports but I’m sure you could find one if you do a proper search):
https://www.amazon.com/RSHTECH-Splitter-Portable-Aluminum-Individual/dp/B07HMZSRS7/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=powered+usb+hub&amp;qid=1574295343&amp;sprefix=powered+&amp;sr=8-6
Only one I've found with each of those isn't in your budget. You'll have to make a sacrifice somewhere or just shell out the money for one like this
USB C to HDMI Adapter for Samsung DeX Station, TOPOINT Type-C Hub HDMI 4K for Nintendo Switch, MacBook Pro 2018 2017 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DZYLVKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-iOPCbRJ6N9SS
I use a Hootoo port extender with a Gigabit Ethernet port in it. Works just fine...
This one here: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-Delivery/dp/B075KHNZXV
We have been using these with good results at the office:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KHNZXV/
I am considering getting something more "dock like" for the office but this thing has great portability.
This guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBEVTIA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Powered it and everything. Using Zoomhash's image for the Pi.
Running asics through my OLD one right now and seems to work fine.
EDIT: To be fair, the Orico hub worked fine on my windows machine. Just not the Pi.
This is what I purchased and use for various things.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Just something I found off Amazon searching for structured wiring patch panels, Steren Cat5E termination module. It actually works great since it has little pegs that readily mount inside the box. Everything else, I ziptied in.
Funny, I just got all the same things from the same company but the screen protector. I DJ often so protecting the keyboard from liquid is a must. I also like the palm protector in case someone with sharp accessories on their wrist scratch the surface of my brandnew Mac by mistake. I also like protecting the touchpad and the bar itself for the same reasons. Screen protection is really not needed unless someone sits on the mac by mistake or it falls screen first on the floor.
To add, i got this usb-c hub and it's been EXCELLENT so far: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This.
Also this is what I bought and works pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMZSRS7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So here's an update.
I first want to thank you for responding and offering your input!
I also want you to know that although I had asked for model specific info I decided to go a different route.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SQPS7N2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
Got it for $15 USD with a coupon and an additional percentage off.
I figured with the same 30W PD and additional 18W QC ports it was a deal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6R3CPB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
With another coupon it came to $30 USD, another good deal.
I knew I wasn't getting all the ports some of the other hubs offered, but hey...a good price for something labeled "2019 Update" (maybe upgraded chipsets?) and the power delivery looked good-to-go!
Found it cheaper on Ebay, but buying through them I consider a crap shoot...there are way too many con artists set up there these days, you never know WHAT you'll get.
At least I have guaranteed return options with Amazon.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16822178436?item=9SIA9K89UG1149
This I picked up for $20 USD (still in box with protective wrapping) at a local Goodwill store.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.homeysoft.nexususb.importer
to use with one of my first tablets, the old Nexus 10...which still works albeit only with external power (the battery is shot)!
Everything works...it just works.
I can now pack the Seagate and run it as long as I want without draining the internal battery and by doing so I hope prolong the life of the Tab S4.
Again, thanks!
I ordered this instead.
Do you see any problem with this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EHW88Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1416362200&amp;sr=8-11&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Something like this,
Your best search term buddy here is "110 block"
Works for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWT7MEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have personally used this cable link with a 6 foot male/female plugged into that extension and a powered USB hub like this plugged into that. Gives you about 20 feet.
I just got a SP6 and the USB-C dock and have the same issue. I used the VAVA hub recommended by The Wirecutter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079GSMZ7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I am crazy, so I just ordered this HooToo hub to try out: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KQZ45F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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It's a shame that the Minix doesn't work either. I was going to try that one next. Maybe there is some limitation of my monitors, cables, or usb passthrough I'm not thinking about here? Using a Nektek power hub that should be giving the hub 60w.
This is what I use on my Alienware Area-51m. It's a Type-C dock you won't find a proper Thunderbolt dock for that price.
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USB C Hub, TOTU 8-In-1 Type C Hub with Ethernet Port, 4K USB C to HDMI, 2 USB 3.0 Ports, 1 USB 2.0 Port, SD/TF Card Reader, USB-C Power Delivery, Portable for Mac Pro and Other Type C Laptops (Silver)
&#x200B;
It has 3 USB ports, 2 of which are 3.0 and one is 2.0. Then it has an SD Card and Micro SD Card slot so I put my memory cards there for more storage plus it has a built in LAN port
Here are the links for the products I used. I tried a few cooling pads and chose the one below because it was quiet, comfortable to use on the couch and at least could hide the cable. The USB-C hub was a random choice and probably on sale but it worked without any issues.
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ASUS XG-Station-Pro eGPU - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP36KHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Targus Cooling pad - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NU5O9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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USB-C Hub - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Hope this helps you make your decision!
Its a D-Link Dub-H4 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006B7DA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/182-3617890-6651766?qid=1418499108&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40). It comes with a 5v 2.5A power brick that can handle the Pi, hub, wifi adapter, and 4 controllers easy. I did disassemble it a d soldered the usb cables directly to the hub. This was just for ruggedness, I didnt want cables coming detatched from throwing it in a backpack and taking it places. It will work without doing that though. If you have any other questions let me know.
Kingston is a reputable company and there shouldn't be an issue. Many times it's user error. But not sure how something so simple could got wrong. Using the pass through charging shouldn't be an issue as it should be to spec but sometimes companies get it wrong (look at the raspberry pi 4)
I use this one with much luck But there are so many out there.
I have the 13" Core i7 with NVIDIA GPU. The Book was hibernating overnight, if that matters. I am using the Wacom 100W power supply hooked up to a HooToo USB-C hub.
The hub gets pretty hot, but I don't think that should affect things, since the power should just be "passing through," right?
I'm waiting for a Thunderbolt 3 break-out for home, but the one I bought for my bag seems way more feature heavy than this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JD9GN6I/
Thanks for this info. Here are a few more details. I'm not directly powering the pi. I'm powering the usb hub described here. The hub has a usb cable connected to the pi that powers the pi. Also, I understand about proper shut down procedures with the pi. On that note, I have my OS (retropie) loaded on a thumb drive to avoid the sd corruption issues.
Does this change your recommendations? What if the challenge was just to turn the usb hub on and off?
I can't answer for manufacturers as to why, but I highly suggest grabbing a pack of these; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0H72DC
Was your issue the same as mine (video)? I also bought a USB 3.0 hub (link), but it didn't seem to help at all. The only difference I can see between the one I bought and Sabrent's is that the power adapter draws less current (2.5 vs. 2A), but I have no idea if that's really the issue.
Interesting. I tried to connect external display with a different USB-C dongle and it worked with no issue.
This one's been working great for my Wii U. I have a hard drive plugged in with a y-cable, and also the USB ethernet adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B005HARR2W&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=184Q4MDZ4DDSA2RHRJKD
Plugable USB 2.0 4-Port High Speed Hub - 15.95
4.Hub!
What was your favorite part about the trip?
Two suggestions:
https://www.amazon.com/Steren-550-030-FastHome-Data-Hub/dp/B000EHW88Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492710438&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=rj45+hub
and this
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Unitek-Converter-Chromebook-Ultrabook/dp/B01N4IEHJG/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492710438&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=rj45+hub
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K4XC8EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
also:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F38WT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Lots of USB-C adapters with power passthrough have LAN ports. Like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 so you could in theory use any cell phone that would recognize the port.
I’m actually using this Dex Station instead of the Dock because of the Glass Screen Protector that I installed on my Switch. Works just fine for me and you have access to its ports just like the ports on the Dock.
Edit for more info about the Dex Station:
I use the Dex Station for my Switch everyday!
Not that my USB3 experience is bad, but I some times wonder if certain jitters are related to my USB3. So I decided to order this bracket to test USB2, since my computer doesn't have any USB2 ports.
http://amzn.com/B00K82WQ7K
We'll see how it goes.