(Part 3) Best electrical distribution products according to redditors

Hide that cord.

Datacomm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.Le3BbPCCKZW6

I have one of these; http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Definition-switch-wireless-adapter/dp/B00BGBU3X6 and it works really well. I have a PC, Blu-Ray player, Fire TV and an XBox plugged into it. It also works well with my Harmony remote.

Buy this kit or similar (They have similar kits at Home depot and Sams Club) and you do not have to splice into the existing wiring of your house. You should only let a licensed electrician, handyman or someone with basic electrical skills tap into your current electrical system.

I hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00B7C07HG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=096KPGAJWBNDN33R18VN

just spend $10 instead of $5, and get a switcher

https://www.amazon.com/AuviPal-Switcher-Composite-Selector-Receiver/dp/B00TKUE18S/

Looks to be this one:

AUKEY HDMI Switch Bi-Directional 2x1 Supports 4K 3D HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out for Xbox One / PS4 /HDTV/Blu-Ray Player/DVD / DVR/Apple TV etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aZL3BbW15AGTC

Looks like both Pi's are connected to this, and then to the single monitor. Pretty smart, in my opinion.

Xiaomi Mi Box is great value at only $69 USD, and it comes with optical (but not TOSLINK, so you'd need an adaptor), but good luck getting it outside of US... There are "international versions" from Chinese online resellers, but I just got the US version from eBay.com

There is also a thread on official forums that discusses all the possible hardware you can get:
http://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=252916
You should really start there

However, I wanted to point out that you don't need to be restricted in your requirement for optical. I was in the same situation, with older "sound system" without HDMI input and not wanting to spend $300 (...and that's without speakers) on an AVR overkill

Then I found this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HM1RP6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No need for an AVR, and you don't need the source device to have optical out.

Will always vary (height between TV and fireplace, heat that emits outward and up, TV model/design), but in short: Yes, it's bad for the TV. An outside heat source flowing over plastics and electronics is no good.

And I 100% concur with /u/norfolkpine2 -- viewing angle is atrocious and doesn't even look good.

Also a lot of people do this themselves and then just punch holes in the drywall behind the TV to run cables through the wall down to an outlet. This is absolutely against fire code. If your house burns down and the insurance company discovers this was the cause (which they will), you'll be out hundreds of thousands of dollars.

When needing to hide cable runs, either use an exterior plastic runner (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EA3NO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 or https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EDVVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) or use an approved kit (https://smile.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-50-6623-WH-KIT-Organizer-Solution/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492727117&sr=1-1&keywords=tv+cable+wall+kit).

You could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Output-Selector-Splitter/dp/B00NWJQSM0 , with the dac connected to the "output", and the amps connected to the "inputs".

I use this with my One X, PS4 Pro and Switch. The only issue is that I sometimes have to unplug the power cable from it and plug it back in for it to work in 4K with the One X. For some reason the One X doesn’t play well with it when in Instant On mode. The PS4 works fine every single time though.

You could get two active HDMI splitters that have 1 input and 2 outputs each.


That way, the only thing you have to do is change the source on the TV, and you dont have to do anything else.

I have this setup so my xbox ones output is splitted to my tv in the living room and bed room. And there is nothing that stops you from doing this twice.

So for example two of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neet%C2%AE-SPLITTER-Amplifier-Display-Shipping-BLACK/dp/B001D9P1OW

Looking sharp, lets get those wires hidden between your TV and tv stand.

I used the following to properly hide power and low voltage a/v cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-50-6623-WH-KIT-Organizer-Solution/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520456366&sr=8-6&keywords=tv+mount+wire+hide+kit

(don't hide the TV's power cord inside of your wall, it's not rated properly, either put an actual outlet or use something like I've linked).

There are more options than that available, I used that one because at the time it was most inexpensive on Amazon in Canada.

I actually had this set up for a couple months. Buy THIS it works exactly as you need it to. I had it connected to my PS4, then to a 1080p TV and a 4KTV. When it went to my 4KTV the PS4 automatically changed the settings to accommodate the higher resolution. (My TV shows the current resolution in the input display). There was literally no issues transferring between the two.

EDIT: I had my PS4 in the side with one port and the two TVs in the other side with 2 ports. It can go both ways.

You need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT

Not if you're in UK or US, but I'm in the UK and due to the 50Hz nonsense and picture degradation via XB1, I ordered this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001D9P1OW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The signal runs from my Virgin TiVo into the splitter, from there, one signal runs direct to the TV, the other to XB1. I've had no issues whatsoever using splitter that since December.

$25 Five Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case

$10 Panlong 4-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 4 In 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles . Just use the left and right audio, ignore and don't use the video ports.

I've used something like this, and it works well enough: Panlong Optical Extractor

My receiver doesn't have HDMI at all, so I use something like this:

http://www.amazon.ca/Panlong%C2%AE-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B00ISQ8VB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426086055&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor

Feeding a power cord through the wall like that is likely an electrical code violation (US code for sure, but depends on the country). You would need to add another outlet behind the TV (extend the bottom outlet) which is the best long term solution, or you could pick up a kit like this. But this kinda looks like an apartment, so that would kinda make these suggestions useless.

A receiver with a sub out would work for its RCA outputs and source selection, but you would pay for and not end up using the amp in it. Maybe if you found super cheap/free used one, but it’s not worth spending money for a new one.

A much cheaper and smaller solution would be a simple RCA switch like this. You’d still have to split the output signal to monitors and sub with something like these. Then put one of the splitters into the sub input (it only has a single RCA) so you are picking up stereo input to the sub.

If you are just using HDMI cables, then a HDMI switch will work for you. If you have other video cables, it gets a bit more complicated and expensive. You can Google "HDMI switch 4X2" to find results. I would suggest getting one with additional ports (such as 5X2) in case you add more consoles in the future. Example of one is here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017RW073I/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EFFRHPV9QPGWPP6SET8S&dpPl=1&dpID=61FFuW2r6iL

I got one of these for my mom who only has 1 HDMI as well and it works for Chromecast. You do lose CEC as someone else mentioned though.

You could use an HDMI switch.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Switch-Supports-Ultra-1080P/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1488048109&sr=1-9&keywords=hdmi+switch

More examples. Make sure the switch supports the resolution you need (1080p, etc.):

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=hdmi+switch

Any HDMI switch that supports UHD and HDCP 2.2 should work. Like

https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY

Edit: removed bad switch recommendation.

this is the one that I have, it works fairly well. There are plenty of threads on here about what the best switch to get is if you want to look into it more

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01KXCO4VU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R99jyb5WYV1BD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CZS932A/

https://www.amazon.com/ROOFULL-Switch-Switcher-Remote-Support/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/

​

From a google search that said "18GB splitter that works with PS4 pro" that took me to the Sony forums, all links from posts from that search.

​

Edit : There is no one solution. People are suggesting all kinds of different units. Probably difficult to get a general consensus on just "one" splitter that works perfectly above all others.

HDMI Switch 4 Ports HDMI 2.0 Switch Auto 4 In 1 Out  With IR Remote Hdmi Selector Switcher Supports Ul... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKS4QX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Bought this one days ago supports hdr and have had zero issues with my one x and pro also using vizio with only one hdr port and arc. Works flawless

Can't have both connected that the same time.

You need a physical speaker switch between your receiver and the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT

So one set of speaker wires from the receiver for the rear channels go to amp 1, then the zone2 speaker output would got to amp 2, and then you'd manually switch when you want to use those speaker for zone2 usage.

Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hide+tv+wirse&qid=1567642002&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Have one hole behind the moitor in place that no matter how high or low i move the mount it's not seen. The other hole is right behind my desk. If you see the split towards the top that is where all the cables are. So there is only the one coming out of there going into the wall power.

Buy this

I have it and have my PC, PS4 and Xbox 360 all hooked up to the same TV using it.

Amplifier - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00QYAOYKW £20.99

HDMI Switch - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0020426AG £6.99

Buy 2 Bookshelf or Floorstanding Speakers, and put the rest of your budget into saving for a decent receiver down the road. Then you can move the amp to your PC if you desire or sell it. This is a way better route then spending hundreds on a HTIB.

Not from the UK so don't know where to find speakers at a good price and Amazon didn't have much of a selection that I am familiar with.

40 really? i have this one for £12.99 (about $20).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457186517&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+splitter

i don't get any lag.

edit: just realised that may not be what you are looking for as i was thinking of a switcher not splitter

I have one of these sat behind my TV works well enough it auto sets to my PC until I turn on my PS3 or Xbox 360 then switches to the appropriate input, also has a button on there for manual switching.

assuming you aren't trying to listen to more than one source simultaneously, what you want is a switch, not a mixer...something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTJET10

something like this also works if your source outputs via RCA and you have a headphone amp:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056DQT1A/

btw, that adapter converts stereo to mono...

I use this hdmi switch because it is cheap (less than $30) and has five inputs. Downside is that you need to power it so if you are short on power outlets then it won't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGBU3X6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_32ZDwbRVHF4BS

kinda dont think that would work.. but they must make HDMI splitters that would output the audio and pass on the video.

something like this I just have no idea if that would work.

Then you can try something like this. Optical audio is a digital audio format that uses a fiber optic cable to carry the audio signal. This type of device will split the audio stream off from the incoming HDMI, and output it through the optical cable, which you can then plug into the SPDIF/optical input in your projector.

This is an example of an optical audio cable that you would need.

>i have no choice for the audio jack unless someone makes optical to 3.5 to stick onto a ps3, or some hdmi splitter/switch that comes with a jack (this actually sounds like a useful device)

Here.

>one last thing, every time i've happened to have a contact that can price check a distributor, or knows a distributor site with online price listings, the cost of the item (such as gfx card) has always been more than a little above what i could find in the usual retail stores, making it a futile effort... probably have to be a big store with constant sales to get a lower price

Well, to start it depends on the store they work for. A consultant will get one price level, a small reseller will get another, a large reseller another, and then the big guys (Best Buy, WalMart, Amazon, etc) get another (and often buy direct from the manufacturer (most resellers can't do this because they have minimum quantities, usually 200-2000 units)). On top of that, some stores get special instant rebates, other stores put out loss leaders, and some just dump aged stock to clear up funds (I once worked for a store that would start knocking off 10% every month after 3 months in order to flush aged stock, some of my coworkers would order in expensive things they wanted and then hide them so no customers would buy them, and then buy the item when it was like 60% off).

The store I work for is fairly price-competitive across the board, but we do occasionally lose out on the "great deals" like you'll see posted on here. Compared to NCIX, across the board we are about 5-15% cheaper, but on their front-page specials, they are usually about 5-15% cheaper than we are (usually, but sometimes they have 'specials' that are still 10% higher than our price).

Amazon is really one of the hardest competitors to deal with because, with their marketplace sellers, almost EVERY product they list is a loss leader, special promotion, stock clearance, etc etc etc. If you're willing to dig around or wait a while, inevitably everything will be cheaper through Amazon than anywhere else (this goes beyond computer stuff too). The main advantage we have over Amazon is that we can provide quality advice and answer questions - but these days more and more people educate themselves and just buy from whoever is cheapest.

I think you're confusing things slightly. You say you want to run your Echo from your speakers. However, I think what you want is to play your Echo on your new speakers. Yes?

If that's the case, it's not a good idea to merge the two sources (the Echo and the PC) with a splitter. Splitters are designed to split the signal, not merge the signal. You need some resistance to prevent one source from driving and damaging the other source.

What you need instead is an Input Selector. Here's a reasonably well regarded all RCA model for $14 in the US store, from Optimal Shop. You may be able to find a similar with auxiliary (3.5 mm) inputs and outputs. However, it's not necessary, you would just need a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter such as this one to go from your Echo to your Input Selector.

If you want music in two rooms, go with the setup that would make that happen. Pick up the JBL's. To A/B with the JBL's you're going to want some instant switching. So have them play at the same volume and then place some kind of switch box between your source and amp/JBL's.

Alright. How many input are you looking for?

There's quite a few different ones of that variety out there, actually. Look up with "stereo switch" or something along those lines. For example, here's a 1-4 switch with RCAs, and here's one with 3.5mm sockets. No idea of the quality of these, though.

Or you could always build one yourself (or have someone put it together for you). Really easy and cheap little DIY project! I'm currently using in my setup a 1-3 switch I built myself for switching between desktop speakers and two headphone amps.

That one looks nice but maybe a little overboard? and pricey. I don't think you will need all those optical inputs.

I have this one and I am very happy:

http://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Matrix-Switch-Splitter-Optical/dp/B017RW073I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464237692&sr=8-5&keywords=Matrix+4+x+2+switch

The remote is total crap, but I don't mind because I have a Harmony Remote (IR codes are in the Logitech database, no need to program). I don't use the 2nd HDMI out. Maybe I'll add a small monitor next to my TV later, or a wireless HDMI transmitter to another TV in another part of the house.

4 x 2 HDMI Matrix Switch [Ultra HD 4K x 2K], FosPower 4 in 2 Out Switcher/Splitter with Optical & L/R Audio Output - Support 3D 1080p | ARC - Includes IR Remote Control & Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017RW073I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.03RBbAVNSX0D

I couldn't help you with the monitor, but for the keyboard and mouse, you could use a USB switch.

Edit: Apparently HDMI switches are also a thing.

They're digital, just check that it (the switch) supports (I think) HDMI version 1.3 as a minimum. Just looking on Amazon, This one supports 1.4 and is HDCP compliant, so should be ok.

As an aside, I always prefer the ones with a physical switch. The digital ones tend to auto-sense the connection and that can cause problems. Some people are fine with it, my experience is they're hassle.

Also, if you are plugging your PS4 into your PC monitor via HDMI and already use HDMI on the monitor from your PC, let me suggest something small and not very expensive that will make your life a lot easier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EHAAHOW/

I stream on twitch and when I use my consoles, I swap one of my two monitors to the console with this switch box. It means I don't have to swap the cables all the time and it's done with the push of a button. It'll make life way easier for you.

No problem it's an AUKEY HDMI Switch Bidirectional 2 Input to 1 Output ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01EHAAHOW ) it's served me well there might be better or cheaper ones out there though since I bought this

Here are some thoughts.

1. I would seriously consider the purchase of the STR-DH550 as it doesn't have HDCP 2.2 HDMI ports. So any copyrighted 4k content will not pass though. This is a no go if you have a 4k TV or plan on upgrading in the near future. If you're looking for a new receiver with HDCP 2.2 ports step up to the Sony STR-DH770 $200 or a refurb AVR depending on the budget.
   
   
2. While an AVR is a great upgrade by not using speakers with it you're not getting the most out of your purchase. If you're going to use the soundbar with it you would be better off getting an HDMI switch.
   
   
3. Another option to free up an HDMI port on the TV is to just simply hook the soundbar up with an optical cable. I think this would also be a very good solution if all you need is one more port.

i use this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FXALWYY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one for HDMI (3 port version which is out of stock)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FXALWYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1526234681&sr=8-25&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=esds%2Bhdmi&th=1&psc=1

Maybe something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ0K1NH/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV5YJ6H/

According to user reviews they all support HDR and 2160p60 4:4:4

If you want a brand name you can get

Ligawo 3090063 HDMI Switch

Sewell SwitchDeck, 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch

I own the Ligawo 5x1 myself.

4K HDMI 2.0 Switch 3x1, ROOFULL 3 in 1 Out HDMI Switch 4K 60Hz HDR Dolby Vision HDCP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Vs7LBb5HWTWFT

This one doesn’t seem to be bad.

I would give this a go and have all the systems running through it before the AVR.

Worst case, if it doesn't work out, you could return it but the advantage of going this way over ARC is that you will retain lossless audio, which you would use going the ARC route.

I have 3 HDMI 2.0 ports on my tv, with my Xbox One X on port 1, HDMI switch on port 2, and PS4 Pro on port 3.

I use this one and it works really well paired with my HTPC. My HTPC is on 24/7, but whenever I take my Switch out of sleep mode, it automatically switches to the Switch, and when I put it back to sleep, it automatically switches back to my HTPC, so I don't have to use any extra remotes or anything else. I'm really happy with it.

Yes. Samsung sells the Dex cable but that's a bit overpriced. The ones on Amazon are pretty good, but tbh I'd just buy a hub

Because you can't charge the phone while using Dex.

Welcome to the Surface family!

I've got a few USB-C to USB-A adaptors - I'd never tried them with a USB DVD reader, so I just gave it a go.

I've got the Aukey USB-C to USB3.0 adaptor and it worked fine, as did my Novoo USB-C hub. I used it to connect a single USB Samsung external DVD reader (there are some DVD reader/writers that use dual USB connections, I didn't test that).

The Aukey is super cheap and works fine, but I'd splash out and get the Novoo for a few quid more as you get 2 USB3 ports, SD/MicroSD slots and HDMI out. Always handy to have the ability to plug more things in!

Sounds like we have a similar setup. I have the Bose 300 soundbar and a Sony XBR X900F. I have an Apple TV 4K, Amazon Fire TV, Xbox One X and a Nintendo Switch.

Since there is only one HDMI port on the TV that outputs 4K HDR, I bought an HDMI switch from Amazon that has been working like a champ. Using the switch I have been able to plug in all the devices and they have been spot on outputting 4K HDR signals from whatever device outputs that high. Initially I had an issue where Dolby Vision would only output a green color but I think that has been addressed in a firmware update as I haven’t seen that in quite some time.

I do still occasionally see the issue where it forgets the soundbar and goes to the internal speakers but it only happens sometimes when I first turn on the system. If I turn the soundbar and tv off and back on then it works like it’s supposed to. With my workaround and the infrequency of it happening I really haven’t looking into it very hard.

I would venture a guess that it might have something to do with some CEC setting but I don’t know for sure.

Here is the link to that switch.

HDMI Switch 4 Ports HDMI 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKS4QX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I went through this a few weeks ago. Got scammed by bunch of Chinese knockoffs on Amazon. I found two different brands (for all consoles that have come out). I use that support all the latest HDMI 2.0, 3D, HDR, YU2.2....

HDMI Switch,4x1 HDMI Switcher... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DW3G3L2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf



HDMI Switch HDMI 2.0 Switcher... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKS4QX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I have
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XKS4QX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great with my PS4 Pro, Switch, Xbox One X, and Apple TV 4k.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=sr_1_41?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538313300&sr=1-41&keywords=speaker+selector+switches

Do you have pre-outs for the main channels themselves, rather than Zone 2?

If so, use those and just run the stereo amplifier even for the HT use. I do this in my own setup, but the stereo receiver runs my subwoofers rather than my mains.

You can use the Zone 2 pre-outs, but you can't have two amps connected to the speakers directly. You would need a switch, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Receiver-Speakers-Selector-Switcher/dp/B0796KGVXT

I've never done this, but there are switchers to change between sources for a pair of stereo speakers. Presumably it would work for a single speaker. I'd definitely use a solution like that instead of trying to splice or split cables myself.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0796KGVXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Do3Db70JN83Z

An audio switch of some sort would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L

Is one example, but I have no experience with this one. You're just pressing a button to switch inputs.

On the slightly fancier end you could get a small mixer. That's pretty much overkill for two inputs though.

It would do what you want, but it's a mixer. So, it's made for mixing different signals together as well as selecting the different sources as you want. Think mixing guitar with vocals or blending 2 turntables, etc. What your are describing the need for is a simple audio source switch or selector. So, I wouldn't personally be looking to go the mixer route unless you wanted to use it more for it's intended purpose because it's just adding lots of unnecessary variables into the "mix". I would be looking for something more simple like this: Nobsound Little Bear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LhQ4DbT02JJKR
I don't have any experience with audio source selector like that personally, but that's an example of a simple A/B selector. Add more sources or Bluetooth if you wish to, but for your current needs something like that should do it.

1 - I'd use the E6 as SDR work monitor and the B8 for everything else including games/video SDR & HDR.

Switch the OS to dark mode, auto hide the taskbar, no wallpaper just black background, set an aggressive screensaver time for inactivity, choose one like ribbons which is mostly black with random animated streaks. This should help curtail any burn in but it is still a risk, I would prefer to risk the E6 rather than the B8 but thats just me.

2 - Purchase Ultramon which greatly enhances the multi-monitor features of Windows, GPU drivers also contain some limited multi-display features for stretching apps across screens at least AMD did, but its been a while since I last looked. Use MPC-BE as windows media player, it is much more tailored for windows than VLC is, look under options-> video-> fullscreen for some monitor controls.

3 - All of the consoles can use just one input on the B8 with game mode, purchase a 5 port 4K 60hz HDR switch like this, that switch also supports Dolby Vision. Be sure on PS4 to manually set the RGB range to low, it wrongly sends the high mode to LG TV's.

The X700 BD player and AppleTV can also share one input use cinema or ISF expert preset along with the same type switch as the above, you can buy them in 3 port versions too, you could also add the PVR to this switch too or leave it separate if cinema preset is not optimal for it.

That leaves the PC to one dedicated input with PC mode enabled on it's HDMI input and the last remaining input is free or use it with PVR.

I got this one last year and works great, i run my PS4 Pro, Xbox One X, and Apple TV 4K through it. Only one I’ve found that would do Dolby Vision on my apple TV right. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3QD59P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QH5TCb71Z882A

It’s easier than you think.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bVSJDbFHP884W

Totally, I mean to get these, since you technically shouldn't run over power cords through a wall (I've been told it violates code):
https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1549742176&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wall+cable+routing+with+power&dpPl=1&dpID=41rC9b1VK7L&ref=plSrch

Didn’t know they. Thanks for the heads up. I’ll check the link out too.

So this Would be a better option?

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CZBDCbPY3ZDG8

Need this

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mJsQDbE8THCHS

You can't tell but I'm using Echogear's cable and power management. It works like the product you linked, but the Echogear one has a smaller footprint.

https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/

Neet 1x2 HDMI Splitter

That’s the one I have. I imagine there’s better, newer, cheaper ones as I bought that 6 years ago for the same price.

While I have not done something like this myself I would think simply buying a HDMI splitter like this to split the signal and an active HDMI to VGA adapter like this to connect it to the VGA monitor should work fine.

I use this works perfectly fine for me, If you are unsure have a read through the answered questions and/or read the reviews.

Thanks for that suggestion. Im struggling to find a UK retailer for it though. The one I linked is definitely a splitter but you're right that its not powered and I imagine that probably why people are having such mixed luck with it and apparently getting crosstalk.

Now I know what Im looking for Ive found these 3 options:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neet®-SPLITTER-Amplifier-Display-Shipping/dp/B001D9P1OW

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cablesson%C2%AE-SPLITTER-Amplifier-Nendindo-Displays/dp/B0042KY0GY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1374249997&sr=8-6

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ClimaxDigital-Output-Splitter-amplifier-support/dp/B001CYJQYO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1374249997&sr=8-13

These all look like good options. Anything I should be looking for?


edit: found it http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sewell-HDMI-Splitter-v1-3b-1440p/dp/B00CIZ3HJG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374252339&sr=8-2

I had to do this before & cheated, my laptop has HDMI output
so set 1& 2 as clone then HDMI to HDMI spliter to the 2 screens
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neet-SPLITTER-Amplifier-Display-Shipping/dp/B001D9P1OW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E4XCVTVR4JN6JYMTVH5E

Thanks, was looking at completely the wrong thing then!

So something along these lines for the HDMI switch, 1x standard HDMI cable, and 2x DVI-HDMI cable will do the trick?

I can't seem to find a HDMI switcher, just a splitter. eally it would be preferable to be able to select which display is the output but could also just turn the TV off when all that's needed is the monitor I guess.

Thanks for that I will buy one now. I am from the UK though and can't find that exact model on amazon.co.uk would this work instead?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001D9P1OW/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1T39SA8AUFT6J

Used this one for a few months now to connect my 360 and PS4.







https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462446523&sr=8-5&keywords=hdmi+switch+amazon










It auto switches and has buttons on it to manually switch. When I first got it, it did not auto switch a couple of times, but it has ever since.

Hi there, I own a very similar product.

I actually own one of these : http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1457208748&sr=8-5&keywords=multi+hdmi

They are extremely useful and there are no adverse effects on gaming. I use it to switch between my Raspberry Pi, Sky TV Box and Laptop! I have an old laptop that I stream games to that is always connected up to my TV. Whenever I need to switch between TV and gaming it just takes a single click of the button.

Like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-output-Switcher/dp/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374138249&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+switch

I don't know how well it will work, but you might find one cheap enough to just give it a try.

I use one of these, auto switches and quality is great

Unfortunately this is just a single PC setup, I'm getting the Capture Card more for occasional PS4 streaming but I had intended to use it with my PC.

My PC is, as you said "beefy" so would you suggest otherwise?

As far as a HDMi splitter is concerned, would this do the trick? I'm not sure exactly how many outputs I'd be needing. Really I'd like to be able to view, possibly even play on (if the delay is short) PS4 capture in an OBS window within Windows.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Electronics-Photo/Duronic-HDS3-Switch-PIANO-BLACK-output-Switcher/B0020426AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483750183&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+split

Something like this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0020426AG?vs=1

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0020426AG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Simple and effective. had two of them for a couple of years now

Well, you can get a multi-input selector box But generally those won't have a volume knob (As I'm sure you're aware, considering you put it in the OP).

If you have even a basic understanding of electronic you could build your own fairly easily. You could also just have the output of the switch box go into the preamp, but you'd have the switch and volume controls on different devices, and the styles probably won't match (if any of that matters to you)

Welcome! I had a bit of a hunt last night. None of the small mixers I found offered muting so you'd have to use something else to achieve the channel flip (something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Source-Tabletop-Control-Switch-Internal/dp/B0056DQT1A/).

Hope you find something that works for you. Good luck!

For sure. It is a "YIS 4-way input switch box". They also make 3-way and 5-way switch. They appear to be harder to find now days. I did find this ebay seller with some of the 5-way switch boxes still: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MCM-50-6180-SWITCH-BOX-FIVE-INPUT-SOURCE/264349903373?hash=item3d8c7b6a0d:g:KD8AAOSwgRRc9y5F

*edit* Found it on Amazon prime too! https://www.amazon.com/Source-Tabletop-Control-Switch-Internal/dp/B0056DQT1A

That sounds like a nice DAC. Since I have been really happy with the Topping TP-22 amp, I was actually looking at eventually getting the Topping D30 DAC (~$120) which I have read good reviews about. It doesn't have any analog input features though.

I have been looking up a few products that might solve my lack of inputs, and it seems hard to find a budget preamp with at least 3 inputs (or maybe I don't know where to look).

With just looking through Amazon, I did find a few inexpensive input switchers, and some of them have passive volume potentiometer nob.

The most basic products I saw were things like this $19 (after shipping) switch box, or this $25 larger switch box. Some of the reviews of this larger box make me question quality of that switch knob, but the general consensus seems that it's fine unless you're really trying hard to find flaws. The smaller 3-source box doesn't really have many reviews.

For about twice the price of that is this interesting $60 switch with a volume potentiometer. It took me a while to figure out why a passive device needs to be plugged in, but one of the reviewers explained very nicely that the powered circuit is for relay switches when changing sources and for powering LEDs. The audio path itself is completely passive.

For the same price of $60, there is a USA made similar product (Schiit Sys passive preamp) that looks fantastic and simple, but only has 2 inputs.

After finding that Schiit product, I began to look further into that company and was really impressed by this Schiit Saga preamp. It has more than enough inputs, but it doesn't really fit my budget right now at $350. Some reviews I read today suggest that it has a very transparent sound and the remote control volume control is a nice feature. Reviews noted that the tube feature (which apparently can be bypassed) doesn't really do anything hugely impressive to the sound, but at least no one complained about it (and it looks pretty cool).

And finally I found this Emotiva BasX PT-100 for $299, which is also more than I'm planning on spending right away, but the fact that it is a multi-input preamp along with a DAC, it would suit all my needs, plus more. This may be similar to what you have. One thing I noticed though with the Emotiva DAC is that the website says the USB input goes up to 24/96k, whereas several other DACs I was looking at (including the Topping D30) have USB input up to 24/192k. If you have any thoughts about this, I would be interested in hearing about it. The Emotiva does support that higher quality on the other digital inputs though. Overall the Emotiva may be the best feature-per-dollar item I have found so far.

I think if budget wasn't an issue I would continue to do some research to compare if the Emotive PT-100 alone would be just as good or better than pairing a Topping D30 DAC with the Schiit Saga preamp (which together would end up being at least $470+ depending on Schiit shipping). Right now though I'm going to try to keep the cost as low as possible and consider something $60 or less. (In other news... I ordered a Dayton Audio 12" powered subwoofer last week which should be here on Monday. I'm really excited about that.)

Sorry, i dont.

But you can get cheap boxes on amazon.

Something like this perhaps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RD939K/ref=psdc_172546_t3_B073RCRXPP


Cheaper model:
https://www.amazon.com/Source-Tabletop-Control-Switch-Internal/dp/B0056DQT1A/

I use one of these :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056DQT1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to put a bunch of inputs in my connect- to then feed to sonos and my stereo. I have a stereo mini to RCA, a bluetooth receiver, output from my dj mixing board, and a PiCoreplayer. That should let you feed the individual sources to the connect and then out to any sonos speakers and your stereo in synch...

edit: was from fat finger send too soon

This is the one I use. It's pretty sweet. I have the Wii U, PS3, PS4, and Xbox One hooked up to it. Super easy to use and even has a remote if you don't want to get up to switch it.

Yes, I use a switcher.

This one in particular.

It's worked well for nearly a year and a half and the remote's battery it comes with hasn't even died. I use it to switch between my computer, PS4, 360, and cable box.

ViewSonic PJD7820HD Full HD 1080p 3D-Ready Projector with HDMI, Dual VGA, Composite and S-video

$650

Cheap and Great projector. Need extra HDMI ports though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBM0664/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBU3X6/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What is specifically wrong with your HDMI switch connection? I have my Premiere on this switch and it's been working wonderfully.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBU3X6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sabrent HDMI - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBU3X6?keywords=sabrent%20HDMI&qid=1450935764&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I have one of these with 2 ps3's a ps4 a PSTV and Direct TV... couldn't be happier with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBU3X6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I got this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGBU3X6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works perfectly for me.

I totally did not see that, thanks for reminding me.

So if I use a hdmi audio extractor, I can just use that instead of the toslink cable and the converter and use a rca to 3.5mm to connect from the extractor to the input of the sound card?

This would probably do the trick:

https://www.amazon.ca/Extractor-Splitter-Converter-Optical-Digital/dp/B00ISQ8VB8

Combine it with a digital audio switcher if you like, or just plug in the headphones when you want to use them. Let me know what you think!

better give it untouched digital signal to deal with instead of relying on your laptop's analog headphones output that might not be that great.
you can use something like that:
http://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B00ISQ8VB8/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

or this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132022

To keep it simple I would use a hdmi extender over Cat5e/Cat6. For about $250 you can get one that will do over 230 feet.

https://www.startech.com/AV/Extenders/HDMI/HDMI-Over-Single-Cat-5e-Cat-6-Extender-with-Power-Over-Cable-230-ft-70m~ST121HDBTE

I would then break out the audio at the recieve point so that you dont have to worry about sync.

https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Converter-Optical-Digital/dp/B00ISQ8VB8

You will need to power the extender,speakers and audio de-embedder at the receive point. Shouldn't be a bug deal because you have power for the TV at that point too.

If you own, I’d order one of the in wall kits from Amazon. They’re super easy to install and they make it look so much nicer!

If you’re going to hang it, your best bet is it build an outlet into the wall where you will mount the tv. This way you don’t have to use an extension cord and you can hide the wires behind the wall. It’s pretty easy to do yourself. If you have the ability to mount the tv, then you are handy enough to do this as well. You can get a kit that has everything that you need like this:

DataComm Electronics 50-6623-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ57CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hDJVDbXNBNRN3

If you’re gonna mount it and not use that kit, I don’t know if the cord will be long enough without an extension cord (depending on how high you mount it).

Edit: it doesn’t have everything that you need. You’ll need some tools to go with that like a dry wall saw etc.

sure! here it is: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ57CR6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


essentially what you're doing is using rome's, which is what is most likely powering all of the outlets in a modern home anyway. It is designed to be in thew all. This kit lets you add power to your new "outlet" by just plugging it into another working outlet, so what you end up with is a fancy, clean, legal extension cord in the wall that won't burn your house down. It is pretty slick if it meets your needs, there are several slightly different versions. Please look into your local safety codes etc. I'm just a stranger on the internet after all.

You might have some code issues if you are planning on running your tv's power cable behind the wall. If you are just doing a/v stuff what you posted is fine.

If you don't have a power receptacle already behind your TV, and you don't want to pay an electrician, these types of products work well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJ57CR6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1420652387&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I wouldn't be surprised if the difference is purely the ability of the amp to provide more power than the MBP. But then, that's a better amp I guess so a reason to spend the difference?

I've only done ABX testing 3 times (quite a long time ago now - not long after the Magni/Modi were released) so very basic setup. I used one of those cheap AV switches (mine is similar to this one at Amazon), a 2-way headphone source switch of the same ilk, and a bunch of Y splitters. Output from DACs or amps go into Y splitter, one side goes into amp, or direct to headphones, and other side gets plugged into switch box by a "helper" :), who also hid the cables from my view so I don't know which is plugged in to which. I flip a coin to determine which source to use on the switch for X :). Once I've done all my listening, I'll then reveal the cables and determine what X was for each trial.

I do A/B stuff blind somewhat more frequently though (simply by getting someone to jumble up the inputs at the back of my source switch!).

would some like this work?

EDIT: forgot to mention; the turntable requires powered speakers (thus the amp). Can there be a switch in between the amp and turntable and still be funtional? if so is this what it should be like?

Oh god, don't start shopping for a DAC. They're a waste of money for almost everyone, but /r/audiophile talks about them like they're the most important part of the system. A DAC is the device built into your smartphone or computer's sound card that converts the digital file to an analog signal for the amplifier to boost. People who have been misled by hype or have run out of things to spend money on start shopping for external DACs.

Most devices have perfectly fine DACs. You probably won't ever hear a difference between the one built into your iPhone and a $300 standalone unit.

What you want is an amplifier with a few different inputs, which is typically a receiver. There's a host of inexpensive new stereo and 5.1 home theater receivers that will do the job, but most will be the same width as your old receiver. Another issue with modern receivers is that most of them don't have a PHONO input, which means either you need an external PHONO preamp like this one or a turntable with a built-in preamp. Good news-- that Pyle I linked is dirt-cheap, and works great.

Alternatively, you could buy a little 50-watt amp like this one and pair it with a manual A/V switch like this. You'll still need the phono preamp, of course.

The cheap and simple solution is to learn to live with a full-sized receiver and go hunting for a good-quality early 90's home-theatre receiver with 80 or more watts/channel. People don't want old Dolby Surround receivers because they don't have all of the modern A/V doohickies, however they'll have at least 4 RCA inputs and a built-in PHONO input, and provide plenty of clean power. I love my Yamaha RX-V850 for this reason.

I hope this helps!

Thanks, wasn't aware of switches.

Looks like my cheapest option (also without using another power adapter) is this switch and 2 RCA male-to-male cables.

Wish there was a smaller option that excluded video jacks. The MX42 mini mixer that was suggested is a great option, but too pricy for me.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Output-Selector-Splitter/dp/B00NWJQSM0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505857961&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+audio+switcher
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505857961&sr=1-11&keywords=rca+audio+switcher
   
   
2. I have only had bad experiences with Schiit products and their customer service. My Modi 2 broke and Schiit refused to replace or fix the issue even though it was still in warranty. They have bad QC and overprice a majority of their products. They do market very well to this sub and Headfi though.

https://www.amazon.com/Port-Video-Audio-Switch-Connectors/dp/B00TKUE18S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469827913&sr=1-2&keywords=video+switch+box

The simple solution to this one is to get a pair of powered speakers (LSR305s, for example), an input switchbox,, and a Chromecast Audio for all your wireless needs.

The Chromecast Audio is a high fidelity solution to your wireless sound, and you can plug it into your TV via a cable - just hit the button to switch inputs.

So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:


AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles

and...

RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD

Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.

Finally the hdmi splitter:

HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote

Suggestion: If you want to bypass the need for a switcher, you could use a mini-DP cable for the Vive, and continue using an HDMI cable for the Rift - that'll lessen the possibility for annoying HDCP checks, anyway.

If that's not good, I have to switcher suggestions, which I use in my console capture setup:

Solid, with an audio stripper: LINK

Just as reliable, better price point: LINK

Both support and include IR remotes.

That makes sense.

>We are currently looking at using a HDMI splitter, USB HDMI capture card, and a surface book as the receiver(second display)

Using this as your splitter you should be g2g assuming the usb capture card works well on the surface book.

if you want a few more ports than you need i found one that takes DC power
https://www.amazon.com/Matrix-FosPower-Switcher-Splitter-Optical/dp/B017RW073I

There are a lot of different options, you can use a KVM Switch with dual HDMI support, though keep in mind there are some issues with some gaming accessories since the KVM wants to treat your mouse/keyboard as a generic USB device and it might get thrown off if you plug in something with RGB. I think there are some KVMs with USB passthrough that you'd need to research.

You can also get a 4x2 HDMI matrix and use that to switch your computer/speakers.

This is the product by the way

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RW073I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017RW073I/

It's actually a 4x2 switch because I have two TVs and want to switch content from any of my sources to either of them. It's not exceedingly expensive and it supports 4K and has an optical output. When using both outputs, I think the optical only works for output going to the "A" port. I use the optical out for a soundbar I have (not a Playbar) so I know it works.

Glad to help! This the the HDMI switch I am using: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Supports-Adapter-Required-Nintendo/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495814423&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+hdmi+switch

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bi-Directional-Supports-Splitter-Blu-Ray/dp/B01EHAAHOW i just bought this but it doesn’t support 4:4:4, so i can’t use HDR with this.

AUKEY HDMI Switch Bi-Directional 2x1 Supports 4K 3D HDMI Splitter 1 in 2 Out for Xbox One / PS4 /HDTV/Blu-Ray Player/DVD / DVR/Apple TV etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EHAAHOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioZ-BbZSYT8E4

Get this one, I use it with my One X, PS4 Pro, Switch, and a PS3 which I also run through a splitter to my capture card. No issues whatsoever, I even got my universal remote to work with it.


E-SDS UHD 4K@60Hz HDMI Switch ,5x1 HDMI Switch with IR Wireless Remote, Auto EDID, HDMI 2.0, HDCP 2.2, and RS232 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FXALWYY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Thanks, that would probably work but I can't seem to locate one in the US. This one on Amazon should do the trick. While I wait for it to show up in stock I've changed my NUC so it won't sleep. My Roku is always on anyway so now the switch won't be triggered to change the HDMI. At least I'm hoping.

Make sure you confirm that for whatever model you end up buying, but it's essentially just splitting a digital signal. It either works fully or doesn't. HDR is, to my knowledge, and algorithm within the signal. I don't think you can limit it with a hub any more than a receiver does.

In any case, this hub supports pretty much all you need.

https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY

I don't own one but here you go, up to 4k 60hz, I don't know about hdr. Please do your own research. Key terms: hdmi standard audio supprt, hdmi standard video support, what hdmi revision supports hdr, what is hdcp

https://www.amazon.com/SDS-Switch-Wireless-Remote-RS232/dp/B01FXALWYY

This one has 4k support It has the best reviews for Xbox one S I could find and there's a few threads on different forums saying it works well. I'm in the same boat ATM have an old (2011) samsung plasma tv, no 4k but 1080 and 600hz, so don't need the receiver yet...

I use this one. It was the only one I found that had more slots and supported 4k@60fps. It does flicker for about one second after the first couple of minutes, but other than that it's perfect. All the reviews talk about how it flickers on the PS4 Pro and the Xbox One S.

Lol my bad I didn't realize I linked to the same one. Stand by.

Edit: this switch has a remote and should not have any auto switching.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FXALWYY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500858657&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4k+hdmi+2.0+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=311hIUJxynL&ref=plSrch

here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Extractor-Splitter/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483308418&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+switch+optical+audio+out

This is correct.

I'd get one with an optical audio out as well, so you can connect that to your soundbar.

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Extractor-Splitter/dp/B01HM1RP6G

Stay away from wireless whenever possible if latency could be an issue.

It is very odd that the TV doesn't have any audio out. What is the model #?

The audio outs on a lot of TV's these days come out of a 3.5mm jack including optical at times.

If your TV truly doesn't have any audio out, here is a switcher with optical out out:. Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D for Apple TV 4Gen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6cggAb16N9162

$40 This is what I use, it's working great. I love the remote. It support 2.1 and 5.1 I believe.

Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DtRgzb59G9006

$30 There's also this one, I think they both have the same audio extraction system:

Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuRgzbQKSPMR6

I'm not sure why you would want to do that, but I'd imagine a better option for that would be using an HDMI + Audio Splitter. Just switch your monitor/speakers/headset to the other input when you want to switch without trying to force it through the PC.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Switcher-Selector-Supports-Automatic/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=sr_1_29?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1503496042&sr=1-29-spons&keywords=Audio%2B%2B%2BHDMI%2BSwitch&th=1

I went ahead and got this switch. Seems like a combo of what you described. It has a 3.5mm jack that will hopefully play nicely with my 2.1 speakers.

 

Regarding the audio out from the projector, I've read in numerous reviews that the audio chip on the projector is low quality and that the bass/treble are severely lacking coming from the projector. Also there were several reports that the projector adds hissing sounds/glitches. I decided to avoid it altogether.

 

I'll report back once I get everything up and running.

Not sure why they recommend that one since it seems to only output 2 ch stereo audio. I just bought this last week for a different reason and it works great. There's also 4 way splitters to hook up all your HDMI devices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

4k, HDR, 60 FPS, 3 inputs.

It took me awhile to find one suitable, but I've been happy with this one

It was actually given to me, but it appears to be this one: ROOFULL 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch 3 in 1 Out HDMI Switch 4K 60Hz HDR Dolby Vision HDCP 2.2 3D 1080P Switcher with IR Remote, Compatible for PS4 Pro, UHD TV, Xbox One/360, Apple TV (3 Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j-MDCbH8H0010

Was in your same predicament with the same tv. Except I don’t use my gaming rig (have a monitor for that) and needed an Apple TV 4K input.

Here’s one with 3 ports that I know works well and supports HDR

ROOFULL 3x1 HDMI 2.0 Switch Switcher 4K HDR HDCP 2.2 with IR Remote, Support UHD 4K 60Hz (60 fps) 4:4:4 18Gbps / 3D / 1080P / Dolby / DTS 7.1/5.1 for HDTV, PS3/4 Pro, Xbox, Roku, Apple TV [3 In 1 Out] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Z6Z2NY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I use it

Does anyone know whether general purpose USB-C hubs like this or this would allow the Switch to display via HDMI?

I need to get something like this for my laptop, and it would be great if I could also use it with my Switch. (Don't really care if it enables the higher-clocked docked mode or not.)

Edit: I'm quite happy to take a gamble and find out... but do these USB-C hubs also have a chance of bricking the Switch? Or was that just the 3rd party docks (like Nyko)?

I ordered on Amazon France but here's the link to the one I bought : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B075FGQ988/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BGH6Bb2CP341B

OP something like -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVOO-Aluminum-compatible-MateBook-Chromebook/dp/B075FGQ988/ref=asc_df_B075FGQ988/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309968313994&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12213164658784420288&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006656&hvtargid=pla-376068451806&psc=1

May help you transfer straight from the card to the hard drive if you're phone is fast enough.

I would suggest taking a back up hard drive. Or if you can afford it, multiple ones so you can send back up hard drives home periodically. Alternatively you can send it to someone trusted get them to back up and send it back to you further along for you to collect and back up again later. You could maybe leap frog two to back up more often.

Meaning you'd only need 2 or 3 hard drives and as many sd cards as you can take.

I use this one with my SB2:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works like a charm, using it on my 34" ultrawide monitor via HDMI!

I'll send back the adapter, but i'll just ordered this one:

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3€ more but if it works even nice - additionally attaching a sensor. If it works it would really mean goodbye bandwidth issues.

I'll report back.

I think something like this is more versatile, because you can connect a usb stick or a wireless connector for a microsoft kit (keyboard + mouse)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075FGQ988/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switcher-Splitter-Pass-through-DotStone/dp/B075XKS4QX

This is the one I purchased earlier this year. I have my PS4 Pro and Xbox One S hooked up to it and can confirm that it's capable of outputting 4k and HDR. I did a good amount of research before purchasing:

HDMI Switch HDMI 2.0 Switcher Auto 4 In 1 Out with IR Remote HDMI Splitter Support Ultra HD 4Kx2K@60Hz HDR 3D 1080p HDCP 2.2 Pass-through for XBox PS4 Blu-Ray Player Roku Amazon Fire Stick By DotStone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XKS4QX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yw91BbDF3W6B0

I bought this switch.

Works very well.

An HDMI switch is probably the best option for you. There are models that will automatically switch the input for you.

Here's an example. I haven't used it, so I can't vouch for how well it works, but it sounds like it would do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Selector-Switch-Boxes/HDMI-Switcher-Splitter-Pass-through-DotStone/B075XKS4QX/

First one, its pretty

https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=audio+splitter+box&qid=1565790627&s=gateway&sr=8-9

​

second one, a little more industrial

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Headphone-Selector/dp/B0787X4J4V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audio+splitter+box&qid=1565790627&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If you are using TRS/aux then you can use this to switch back and forth. It works in either direction afaik. Otherwise I think you would need some kind of fancy switcher or something?

Thank you very much!

Your explanation makes total sense: (in lay terms) half the signal is just being sent into the wrong wire and not making it to the sound system.

Mixers also seem to be the tool for the job if you need to be able to target multiple devices at the same time - and not even that expensive for how advanced they look.

But as you suspected, this would actually be pretty much overkill: I don't ever need audio from the Chromecast Audio and TV at the same time. I am also fine with having to walk over and hit a switch to change the input from one to the other.

Quick search later I found https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3, but this is big for the job. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IVBD7A/ and https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ are smaller but still a bit pricey.

Any suggestion for small, simple and cheap-ish splitters that would match my use case?

(I will probably need 2 new male to male 3.5mm plug cables to connect my devices to the switcher, I guess?)

Hey guys,

So I'm getting into vinyls and everything for my apartment and need advice with purchasing equipment. So I already but the LP60 (bluetooth model), and the Edifier R1280DB. However I'm thinking of exchanging to the AT LP3 because I want something automatic. Now here is where I need some advice. At times I want to switch from speakers to my headphones (Bose QC35) to for late night study sessions and not wanting to bother roommates. Right now through the LP60 I can easily switch from speakers to Bluetooth but I do realize how much quality is being lost from playing vinyl over bluetooth . So I was thinking to exchange my player to the Lp3 and get a headphone amplifier (such as the magni 3). Now here is my question would there be a loss of quality if I use like this Aux switcher to be able to easily switch between my headphones and speaker? Now if there is any other way someone who has insight in another way I can go I can easily exchange any of the stuff I have already bought.

Thanks appreciate the help

I use this bad boy

wooden switch


If you must stay with rca
use this

https://www.amazon.com/4minds-Splitter-selector-Computer-Headphones/dp/B0776JX4JQ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_13

Plug this box into your rear pc jack, plug your speakers and headphones into the box. One-button tap switch.

To hear both, search around for a two channel DJ mixer and some RCA cables/adapters,

or this bit of overpriced gear.

For one-or-the-other, this is a very graceful solution that I use for various A/B testing.

I just did this a couple of weeks ago, running Nuforce STA200 paired with Emotiva UMC-200 and Kenwood KD-2070 paired with Sony 7065 powering SVS Prime Towers.
I bought this from Amazon ton make switching between amp faster.
Works great for me.

You are looking for something like this switch


edit- to say i used the search term:

2 amp one speaker switch

in case you'd like to refine or otherwise use it to look at other sites

Posted this in /audio and /hometheatre but got nothing yet, thought I would try in here and hope someone can help me.

 

I have speaker cables coming from my old B&O amp for my Turntable; and I have speaker cables coming from my Sony STRDN1080 receiver - both going to the front Dali speakers.

 

Most of the time I just have my AV receiver connected up to all the speakers, and when I want to listen to my Hi-fi I unplug the two fronts and plug in the cables from my turntable.

 

Obviously I would like a more automated solution, but I'm not even sure if there is a specific product name I should be looking for. I have googled various combinations of 'speaker selector','speaker switch', 'audio splitter' even '2 in 1 out speaker switch' And haven't found anything really. Most results are for feeding multiple speakers from one source, and very few are banana plug inputs, most are audio sources (optical, rca) or spring loaded speaker clips.

 

The closest I have seen that would do the trick is this from the US amazon site linked from my upgrade thread. But I can't find similar in the UK, and auto switching would be great if possible.

 

Is there anything out there available from UK i can look at? If I had any hair left I'd be pulling it out by now. ;)

Cheers,

That makes sense. Running up and down stairs 3 times is certainly not ideal. Do you mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1539972368&sr=1-6&keywords=rca+selector

It also has a mute button which would essentially give you the 'nothing is connected to anything' scenario.

This One makes it Easy - pic #5 . 3.5 mm to rca into it. 2 sets rca output - one to edifiers, one to sub.

https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=passive+preamp&qid=1570423599&sr=8-17

I'm not sure what you mean by cinch switch but there are certainly RCA A/B switchers. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B07CKK7J2L/

You can also use any 3.5mm switcher and 3.5 to RCA cables if you find one cheaper. I mainly told you about the pre-out since it is free. This would make it so you don't have to plug/unplug it adjust volume.

You'll want an amplifier for the speakers.

Possible parts list totaling about $150:

• Topping PA3 stereo amplifier
  
  
• Nobsound RCA switcher
  
  
• 2 x RCA cables (assuming you already have one set)

So first off - thank you so much for all of your hard work. I have a x900f 55 inch and a EVGA 2070 super. The problem I am having when experimenting with custom resolutions is that if I input a resolution that the TV doesn't like - it black screens and does not bounce back after then 15 second timer. After that I have to go through hell trying to get the TV to output video from my computer via "low resolution" safe mode and multiple reboots. Does anyone know how I can keep this from happening? I can output 4k @ 60hz no problem, so I'm pretty sure my cables and splitter are ok. This is the splitter I use

ROOFULL 3 in 1 Out HDMI 2.0...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3QD59P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thanks in advance!!

Also, do you know anything about maybe using a switch that can passthrough everyhting ?

​

Something like - https://www.amazon.com/ROOFULL-Switch-Vision-Switcher-Compatible/dp/B07D3QD59P#customerReviews


I would hate to have to buy another soundbar :( This is an extremely expensive one and sounds amazing.

I am using a switch and it has caused 0 issues and no impacts on signal quality. This is the one I use. There are lots to choose from.

This according to reviews works well.

Yep, that's the same brand I have. Only way to fix it is to buy the new model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D3QD59P?th=1

Yea I see ones like this:


Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sQTuDb3T1AHNQ

Not sure how that also wouldn’t be a code violation though.

I just have the cords outside the wall with cable management stuff. For me it works fine and I rent so can’t really be opening up walls.

Hey, so there are a few ways you can do that. If you already have a laptop, let's say a MacBook pro, you can use ROON connected to a streamer (such as the node 2i). YOu can then use something like Apple TV to screen share your MBP screen on the TV.

​

Regarding the TV.. I have it the wires running behind the wall using this..

https://www.amazon.com/Echogear-Power-Voltage-Cable-Management/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?gclid=CjwKCAjw3c_tBRA4EiwAICs8Cr_unPDfFSTElHBlznJWpbfmLxN6Z1zHTAjONgHcKgozXZlceAg4ehoCCPEQAvD_BwE&hvadid=233518986929&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9004358&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=7473189041772216981&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-26548716883&hydadcr=18887_10145554&keywords=in-wall+power+kit&qid=1572114371&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyRkhSUU05WjJTVE8xJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzczNjAxRklZUVhHWU5JOVBaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MTY5ODY4WVBZRVJDT1VMNkcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

They make kits that let you plug an existing outlet into a wall outlet, and it is then wired to the new outlet behind the TV. It is the easiest solution for your case where you can use the existing wires to pull the new wire into place.
sample on amazon

They make them in the rectangular style too to match the hole you already have in the drywall on the bottom. Here's one

Personally I'd try to run power to the new outlet behind the TV completely inside the walls to avoid having one outlet plugged into the other in such a visible spot - but if you just want it done quick and easy something like what I linked will work.

So I have two PC's, a Bluetooth Receiver and an Xbox 360 on my desk. So I purchased this and the appropriate cables. It works well, and to no surprise there is more impedance so it's quieter and less rich sounding. Would a DAC help me solve my problems (my speakers are 3.5mm desk speakers so I know I don't NEED a dac for those) but would it help me at all? Or what should I do to make my audio better? I'm a filmmaker and audio is important lol.

This works great I
Nobsound Little Bear MC1022 Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKK7J2L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then this to your Logitech
3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8uYOBbPHNEYV1

Fyi man, that’s a pretty major fire hazard if your cables are just loosely running through your walls. They sell special kits that allow this sort of routing though, give them some thought!

Echogear in Wall Power Kit Includes Low Voltage Cable Management - Hide TV Wires When Mounting A TV - Includes Hole Saw Drill Attachment for Easy Install https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H9C1176/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cJKgDb8YRMS0Y

...oh you mean you want to hook up the VCR to play ancient obsolete VHS tapes in addition to a console? You just need a video switcher in that case,


https://www.amazon.com/Composite-Selector-Camcorder-Nintendo-Original/dp/B00TKUE18S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=video+input+switcher&qid=1562474508&s=gateway&sr=8-3


I had something like this back in the late 80s/early 90s :)