Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.

• LED Strip - $7.99
  
• Switch - $5.90
  
• Power Source - $9.59
  
  Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
  
  

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.

Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.

Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.

One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.

My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.

These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.

And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.

No voice required for this device..just hands!
https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR
j/k While you can get a box to plug your lamp into that is controlled by another box via zwave. You would need wifi at some point for your phone to connect.

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Quantity/dp/B0000CGKLR

The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch, Clap Detection, Perfect For Kitchen/Bedroom/TV/Appliances, 120 V Wall Plug, Smart Home Technology, As Seen On TV Household Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-eFXBbZYAAW3J

Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTXKOTM/ref=pd_aw_sim_75_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41LJmyLXpBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C67_&refRID=1TG5SVHVG6V1V98SN8HS

I'm going to copy and paste a reply I made earlier today:

I use a WeMo Insight to remotely control power if my machine locks up.

You will need to set your BIOS to restore power on recovery from AC power loss, then you can do a hard reboot with the WeMo. To me, a one time cost of $45 per rig is worth the 8+ hours of not being able to mine while I'm at work.

There's also IFTTT support, so you can write a script to automatically perform a reset if it becomes unresponsive, or whatever criteria you want trigger it.

You can also get the Mini for a few bucks cheaper, but it doesn't have the power reporting that the Insight has.

I know you're in ethOS, but if you're using Windows, I have my machines set to log in without credentials upon boot, and then launch Afterburner and Claymore by dropping a shortcut to the exe in shell:startup. If something crashes hard and I can't remote into it, just tap a button in the app and you're up and running with five minutes of downtime.

---

Alternatively, you can buy a domain and port forward your management port to the computer, but that's fairly insecure.

Yeah this switch and this remote should work together.

Also probably want this mount

I assume you could use a reed switch setup (a magnet on the gate, the switch on the fence)... the same thing you see on doors and windows in security systems. The pushbutton in your wireless remote would be replaced with wires running to the reed switch. I'm making a lot of assumptions about how that remote works, but just an idea.

The best is to get 3 of those.

>I have a few switch operated outlets in some of my bedrooms that I want to just make regular outlets.

Do you have other switched controlled lighting in the rooms, or are these designed so you can plug a lamp into them as a source of light for the room? If it's the latter, you can't remove the switch and be code compliant.

It's definitely physically possible to do what you want to do, and it will be as simple as connecting the black wires from each screw together.

Easier solution is to just put light switch locks on them.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539587051&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+z-wave+outdoor

Or, basically the same thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Jasco-Z-Wave-Plug-Outdoor-Module/dp/B07DVYNJ6N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539587051&sr=8-4&keywords=ge+z-wave+outdoor

I've had both of mine under 6" of snow (we don't get a lot here) and also completely soaked by rain (we get a LOT here). No problems at all.

Got WiFi in the garage? You could plug in one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mWnYAbKP35VYZ

It will track the electricity you use, and you can even set the price and have it export it to email at the end of the month.

http://imgur.com/bwJXcMR

Amazon has GE Z-wave 14291 Switches for $29.33

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/

You could use The Clapper and set your computer to control it using clapping sounds. [/not serious]

They solved this in the 80s: https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR

I think you should go 80s retro, and activate it with one of these.

Check this out then!
https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM

Lutron has a low amperage switch (5A limit) that does not require a neutral. It’s the PD-5 series (not the more common PD-6). Unfortunately they’re quite expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S?crid=14TOD0X98DIW8&keywords=lutron+pd5wcl&qid=1540691480&sprefix=Lutron+pd5%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-6&ref=sr_1_6

Any zwave switch should be able to toggle power. They are relatively easy to wire in. Just watch a few YouTube videos (TURN THE BREAKER OFF FIRST).


I wanted to have a toggle switch that matched the other toggles in the house (not the flat 'paddles'). These are a little large but should find in a double box like that.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM

You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-6&keywords=GE+zwave+switch).

Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-5&keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487105148&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.

Here?

1985 has you covered

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542398066&sr=8-2&keywords=The+Clapper

You could use cell phones and then have all-around-the-world range. Just put the receiving cell phone on SpeakerPhone and connect the light to The Clapper (LINK). Now you clap at the sending cellphone, the receiving cellphone plays this clap, and The Clapper turns on your light. Easy.

I'd go with a magnetic reed switch and some LED strips:

• https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_2
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I did something similar with my liquor cabinet but with a leftover LED strip from an aquarium.
  
  Out of curiosity: where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin.

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

I use this dimmer and the matching switches:
Leviton Dimmer

I've also heard good things about the GE dimmer:
GE Dimmer

I'd say it really comes down to personal taste in the switch appearance between those.

lottery tickets, remote control plugs, DropStop seat gap filler, glass tupperware set, squatty potty, Code Names (or any board game), Yeti colster, hydroflask bottle, packit freezable cooler, a set ofoutdoor globe lights, gift wrap organizer

Lutron's RF PD-5S-DV-WH and Caseta PD-5WS-DV-WH switches do not require a neutral for most applications.

I got a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473194366&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

they seem to come highly recommended and I know at least one person personally that has installed a number of them.

The switch itself looks normal except that the toggle points straght out (so it looks like it's stuck inbetween on and off. Basically it's operation is push up for on and push down for off. GE also makes a dimmer version and a 3 way add on switch.

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

Alternative, the TP-Link Switch is compatible with Home/Assistant, as are their Plugs and LED Bulbs. Note that there is no IFTTT support as of yet.

I have two Smart Bulbs and a Mini Plug in my living room right now. App-wise, they're controlled with Kasa on my phone and a tablet. I can turn on/off, set schedules, dim (except Plug), etc... and do everything but schedules with my Google Home.

The Switch is part of the same family of products, same core functionality across the board.

Not sure how 2 Switches controlling the same lights would work... but might be worth a shot. (edit: see posts below)

I can say, "Hey Google, turn off the lights.", or call out a specific lamp. The Plug is treated separate (attached to bias lighting behind my TV). It doesn't trigger on "lights" calls. I wonder if Switches are yet another category.

With the possibility of IFTTT support, I hope to get movie/tv show time going with a single command, which would dim/kill the Bulbs and kick on the Plug.

Aside from the above, I have my Bulbs set to turn on when I get up for work weekdays. I'm going to get another, color changing one for my bedside, put that on a circadian schedule (option in Kasa).

My venture in to this started off with a Belkin WeMo Mini, but it would not connect to my hidden network (should not be the case with latest fw). My case went all the way to an engineer but after testing a TP-Link Smart Plug, which worked flawlessly and imo, had a much easier setup, I tried the bulbs and now I'm all in with them. I returned my Belkin products but was able to discuss my issues with an engineer we had a solid conversation. Kudos to them.

Hope some of this helps!

Replace the timer switch with a Z-Wave switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

Then you can set up a timer in the Smart Lighting app so that whenever that switch if physically pressed, it will stay on for a certain amount of time.

Set up a sensor that monitors humidity like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O

You'll also create a separate automation that activates the fan when that sensor reads above a certain humidity, and turns off when the humidity drops back down. That one is a little more complicated to setup, but not impossible.

Coupon Codes - Rakuten.com has a coupon code (BF20) that takes 20% off your entire order. Can only be used once!

• Z-Wave
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch -
  $26.59
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, in-Wall, White - $25.71
  
  Dome Home Automation Water Shut-Off Valve - for Pipes up to 1 1/2", White - $72.17
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $30.09
  
  GE Z-Wave/ZigBee/Bluetooth 0-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $13.99
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off - $27.19
  
  
  
• Streaming Devices
  
  [ROKU ULTRA STREAMING MEDIA PLAYER] (https://www.rakuten.com/shop/electronic-express/product/4661R/) - $49.99
  
  Chromecast Audio - $15
  
  
• Voice Assistants
  
  Google Home - $79
  
  Nest Hello Video Doorbell w/ 1-yr. Nest Aware + Google Home Mini - $180
  
  Google Home Hub - $100 + $30 Kohls Cash

Hey, /u/kerj!

My company (Jasco) manufactures both the Enbrighten lights and the GE Z-Wave Outdoor Switch. The model 12720 you linked is the old Z-Wave model. We have a newer Z-Wave Plus model, 14284. It is rated for 150 feet of range.

Setup is indeed a bit more than just buying the Outdoor Switch to be able to automate your Enbrighten lights (or whatever else you choose to plug into it). You'll need a Z-Wave hub like /u/bfodder said. SmartThings, Wink, any of those will do. Wink even makes the Wink Hub v1 and sells it for around $30 on Amazon. You could get that and our Outdoor Switch and you'd be all set.

You can send ON/OFF commands from your phone at any time and also setup schedules (depending on how well the hub manufacturer you pick has integrated your selected Z-Wave device).

Feel free to ping any other questions you might have off me.

Yep, and you can pair a pico to it for the other side. Note you don’t need a hub if you just want the switch and pico to work together. The hub will give you smart phone control

Pico: https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-PJ2-2B-GWH-L01-Remote-Control-White/dp/B00KLAXOE8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJCTRVTZNFWTTQV2RX4M

Switch
https://www.amazon.ca/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MZPGBFTHYAFQ97YWPJF9

Lutron Casetta in wall switches and a smart Bridge would do what you need.

I have one of these:

GoControl WA00Z-1 Z-Wave Scene-Controller Wall Switch (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0QIRybNX5PVH7

Battery powered. Also comes with another faceplate that makes it about half the size that picture shows. Supports tap and also hold functions I believe. You would have to double check compatibility with your controller.

Man, I'm really getting some use of this link today lol.

Basically it's a Z-Wave scene controller that goes over the existing switch. You leave the switch behind it, in the on position, and use the buttons on the controller. With the ZHA integration I can see separate Z-Wave events for both buttons for single press, long press held down, and long press releases.

It's not pretty, probably not better than the Shelly idea, but it's different.

I second the TP Link products. No hub required. Here's their switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BrnjzbA8ZYP23

Install an automatic toilet flusher and also a smart light switch controlling the lights in your washroom. You could program your light to blink on and off once a day which will trigger the toilets photo sensor to automatically flush. You might have to find an automatic flusher with an adjustable sensor. I would set it to most sensitive for this configuration.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Touchless-Dual-Flush-Converter-Replacement-TECHO/dp/B01DO7ABHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=automatic+toilet+flush&qid=1573580908&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTTRITVgwNEJBR0tJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDMxNzY5M0IySDdaUjhUTzFXVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEwMDUzMksyNDgwQkFQTEZMWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+switch&qid=1573581759&sr=8-5

As far as I know there's no smart bulb that hits anywhere near 1500 lumens. I'd recommend keeping her current bulbs (or picking up some 1500 lm/5000k LED bulbs) and getting smart switches/dimmers.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

For sure, but for someone to be as good as he is at coaching the defense, I personally think he has to understand a lot about offense, that is just some random guy on the internets gut feeling though. Plus smart coaches/leaders tend to surround themselves with people smarter then them in things they lack depth in. Personally I would love someone with his intensity leading the whole team instead of the guy that invested in The Clapper

Problem solved ;)

If I was not a broke ass college student I would honestly send you one.
Happy Birthday

I have lights in mine and used a magnetic switch to have them turn on automatically when the door is opened.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/

On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.

Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.

The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)

As a starting point here are a few links that may help:

• Razberry - the Z-wave adaptor for the pi - http://razberry.z-wave.me/
  
• Domoticz - home automation software (free) - https://www.domoticz.com/
  
• Alexa-Domoticz bridget - https://github.com/madgeni/alexa_domo
  
• Fibario dimmers (what I use) - http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-universal-dimmer-2-250w
  
• GE Dimmers (fine for US, not usable for me in the UK) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
  
  

The best I've been able to find is the Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Multi-Sensor (DSB05-ZWUS). Note: not the newer models, for which the motion sensor doesn't work outdoor. You'll also need a zwave switch to control the lights (I use a GE 12724).

With a zwave dimmer switch, a zwave motion sensor, and a normal outdoor light fixture, I've set mine up to turn on the lights at 30% brightness at sunset, and off at sunrise. When motion is detected and the lights are already on, I have the brightness increase to 100% for 10 minutes, then back to 30%.

The Aeon sensor is definitely not ideal. I looked far and wide for a better outdoor motion sensor but wasn't able to find one. Others have suggested using a traditional outdoor light that has a motion sensor built in and detect the load increase to trigger an event. I decided not to go that route.

I bought something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486522222&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+wall+outlet
The idea being that the raspberry pi can trigger the specific remote button and then activate the outlet. The nice thing about this solution is you don't have to worry about switching 120 or 240 V directly with a relay.

Your broad options are:

1. Continue using your conventional wall switches to toggle lights. This somewhat defeats the purpose of smart bulbs, though, because you can't remotely operate them (via app, voice, sensors, schedules, wireless dimmer, etc.) when they're switched off. You'd have to turn on the switch first, and then you could use the app (or whatever) to adjust the brightness/color/scene.
   
2. Disable or prevent access to your switches and leave your fixtures in an always-on state. There are a variety of ways to accomplish this. You could tape over the switch (or use something a little fancier), or you could re-wire the circuit and completely remove the switch. A caution on re-wiring: If you ever need to shut-off power to the fixture (e.g. to change a bulb) you'd have to do it at the circuit breaker.
   
   Some folks use a variation of #2: They find creative ways to install a Philips Hue Dimmer switch over-the-top of their conventional switch, thereby preventing access to the old switch and providing convenient access to a Hue-friendly switch in its place!
   
   More recently, there are some new Friends of Hue switches starting to arrive on the market that should fit standard (US & Europe) switch plates (unlike the non-standard sized Philips Hue Dimmer switch.) You could use them the same way folks use the Philips Hue Dimmer switch, without resorting to creative 3D-printing hacks to make it fit.

> some sort of surface mount switch cover that fit OVERTOP that one, to keep it in n on state

They are called switch guards. I recently picked up these ones for the same purpose, to preventing accidental turning off of Hue bulbs to help make sure they are online. There are different styles and functions, these ones have tabs you can snap off to give easy access through the side, or leave them on and you can still get to it just have to use a screwdriver to take off the cover.

----

Edit I think I misread, and you want to put a Hue switch where an existing switch is. If you are trying to replace the switch with a face plate that doesn't have a switch so you could mount the Hue switch, you'd need to do some electric work. It might be easier to use the guard I mentioned, and mount the Hue switch next to it.

They make a regular switch as well. It's not a rocker, but I have a bunch of them in my house and like them.

5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jye5xbSNEVZQN

Consider the Caseta dimmers and switches. They are quality pieces of hardware, and some models don't need a neutral to operate. They rob a tiny bit of power when off and on, and it does it in a way where most bulbs and appliances don't flicker or anything. I have an old house without neutrals almost everywhere and these things have been my silver bullet.

Here's a dimmer that doesn't need a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA

And a switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S

Be careful on which dimmers and switches you buy, as Lutron sells ones that require neutral connections that look exactly the same. Check the model numbers! Last I checked, Home Depot sells dimmers that work without neutrals, but the switches they sell do require them.

I have a three-way connection on my stairwell, and I just wire-nutted one side of the connection and put a Pico remote in its place. On the other side is a dimmer with no neutral.

You'll need a Caseta bridge to make these work, and I highly recommend the pro bridge. The non-pro one works, but it does some really hacky things to get it to talk with Home Assistant. Updates to it have broken things, too. The pro bridge provides a reliable telnet connection that also supports using Pico remotes as sensors and such.

If you decide to use the pro bridge, use this component: https://github.com/upsert/lutron-caseta-pro

Good luck!

GE Z-Wave switches. Use their add-on switch combined with one of their regular z-wave switches. (or zigbee or bluetooth it would seem, I am just a fan of bluetooth so that's what I used)

I just did one of my lights that was controlled by two switches with this. The main switch goes where there's power to the switch (and you'll need to make sure you have a neutral wire there) and then your existing traveler wires should be able to be used to connect the other switches.

I also saw these Zooz switches which looked interesting and claim to work with existing three way switches but I have no experience with them. I went with the GE switches because I've used them for regular switches in the past and have been very happy with them.

AFAIK, it's not the light that's sensitive to the sound but the power adapter such as: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

Maybe you could make your own: http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Clap-Sensitive-Light-Control-The-Clapper/

I would buy 7 other Bluetooth speakers, preferably from different companies, that sounds excessive but it is what you need for Dolby atoms.

Usually the Bluetooth speakers will have a headphone jack, you will use that to connect it to the TV. Obviously your TV doesn't have 10 headphone jacks, but that's where these babies come into play, you will need 9 of them.
You may face the issue that it is cumbersome to turn on all of the speakers separately, you could use a IOT solution like this one to control all of them.

You could order this from Amazon from your ipad: http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR but one of you would have to eventually get up and install it.

Mount a magnetic switch on the outside of the door. Something like this

No, just a few simple parts.

Tape

Power Supply

Connectors (Technically optional, you can solder the cut ends of the tape. But this is much easier.

Magnetic Switch

Dimmer (Optional)

You'll also need basic wire nuts and spare wire.

I had 3/4" thick shelves with 1 1/4" MDF trim fronstpieces. Then I cut a small 45-degree piece to fit hidden behind the front trim. The tape then goes on that 45-degree piece so it's pointing down and back. I hope that makes sense.

A magnetic switch, like the kind security systems use to see if a window is open.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sxts_kp_bs_lp_1

One side mounts on the door, the other side mounts on the door frame and has wires running to it. When a magnet gets close to the wired one it opens/closes a contact (depends on how you wire it). So wire it to be open when there's a magnet and the circuit will close (thus the light turns on) when the door is opened and the other part moves away. The circuit opens again when the door is closed and the other part gets close. Works for both sliding and regular doors.

Consider doing some homework first, e.g. take a look at Home Security Projects for Raspberry Pi. That will give you some basic ideas and some direction that you may want to explore. Remember, the Raspberry Pi is more of a general purpose single board computer and needs sensors and coding to get it where you want it. I would strongly suggest you look at some websites dealing with Python coding on the RPi. Don't be afraid to explore. What you are looking at doing has been done by many people over the years, just in different ways. An example sensor (for the door kicking) would be to mount a magnetic reed switch and sense the opening or closing of the door using the GPIO pins on the RPi. Good Luck!

Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!

A few other recommendations:

1. CAT6 EVERYWHERE. This is so important and worthwhile, that I'm writing it to echo everyone else's statements :) I had my contractor's wiring guy run unfinished, plain Cat6 everywhere, and will finish the ends myself, which saved a ton of money.
   
   
2. Get them to install your Smart Thermostat. I supplied mine (Ecobee 3) to my contractor and wanted them to install it. This is because when I asked them if my furnace had the C-wire, they said yes, so I could install it myself. I pushed them to install it for me, and it turned out that I didn't have the C-wire, so they had to do the extra wiring run to my furnace and get it installed. Massive bullet dodged, no way I could have done that myself after the walls were up. I love smart heating/cooling. I chose the Ecobee 3 because it is actually a hard-wired thermostat, so no need to ever change batteries :)
   
   
3. Smart dimmer switches for nice pendant/chandelier LED lights in kitchen and/or living room (or anywhere else). I bought a couple smart dimmable GE z-wave switches (I think it was this, or a similar model) and had the contractor install those too. This you can probably do yourself, but it's better if they do it for you while they're installing all the other wiring and regular switches anyway. The switches are wonderful, and can dim my beautiful kitchen pendant LEDs, as well as my beautiful chandelier LED. Thus, those lights didn't have to be smart, just the switch, which allowed me unlimited access to any light I want. Light shopping is a lot of fun, a lot of cool stuff out there. If using this switch, just make sure the lights you buy for them are dimmable, as some LED lights are not dimmable, and will tell you so in the specs.
   
   
4. Outlets at every window. For what? SMART AUTOMATED BLINDS. And with the outlets by the windows, then you can order the blinds that come with standard wired power, which is cheaper than the battery powered and solar powered ones. And c'mon, let's face it, no one wants to change the damn batteries, especially with the blinds going up and down at least one cycle per day, and solar power never seems to deliver enough juice. I ordered smart Bali Blinds through Costco that have the Somfi receiver built into them. You build your own package when you order (because you have to measure and specify lengths and widths for blinds), and when choosing accessories, you have to order the Somfi to Z-wave controller (Zrtsi is what they call it) with it. I LOVE these smart blinds.
   
   
5. Get them to install your Smart Door Locks. I'm using a Schlage Z-wave (or zigbee?) lock for this, and it is working great so far. But it was a pain in the ass to install apparently, or more specifically, to line up with the hole the door bolt lines up with in the door frame.
   
   
   HOME MODE:
   
   Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
   
   If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
   
   VACATION MODE:
   
   When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
   
   All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
   
   
   When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
   
   GOOD LUCK!
   
   Optional:
   
6. Speaker wire in every room, like bathrooms. Or at least the rooms you'll want sound in (kitchen, bedrooms, living room, bathrooms....that's pretty much every room :D). I wish I had done this. I initially thought I would just use a bluetooth speaker wherever I wanted sound. But then Google released the Chromecast Audio, and you can get whole home sound now for CHEAP...if you have powered speakers everywhere. Plus, it's always good to have speaker wires wherever you're going to have a tv, because true surround sound will always be better than soundbars.
   
   BONUS EDIT:
   
   Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Dude....

Non standard, non UL listed switches are potentially dangerous. Who knows what regulations they were built to. Even simple things like when you need a new switch plate will be a pain. I use these with great success

The ones you're looking at don't dim, and if you use Alexa it seems that all three switches are controlled simultaneously. You have to use an app to operate them independently. In the instructions they refer to the hot line as "fire line" and the neutral as "zero line" .

Your insurance company would probably not like these much. (or maybe they would as they could get out of paying a claim if these happened to burn your house down.)

Get your fidget spinners and bulk ping pong balls from aliexpress, but I'd stick with UL listed items when it comes to your well being.

SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463308319&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+power+switch

One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.

I picked up these which work great. No more issues with the TV or worrying about them turning off on their own.

I just enabled the bluetooth thing to have them auto power off. If that wasn't an option I'd get one of these

You need a VR Cover and do you wear glasses at roughly 4 feet? If so, you need lenses. Then there are googly eyes, rubber condoms for your controllers or hmd, sanitary masks for sharing your Vive, extension cables if you have the room to use them, and an ac controller to turn everything on and off. There's probably more but that will get you started.

Get a light switch guard.

They make ones for rocker switches also.

These look like the same switch. But $15 cheaper...

Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH 120/277V 5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nbD1BbYK9DEFP

This is the on/off switch: 5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_9LRpO3dF8vuUH

This one will control off/on state, but not speed. Don't use the Caseta Dimmer model, as it won't work. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Switch-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=sr_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1474586308&sr=1-9&keywords=lutron+caseta

Apparently some Caseta switches do. I didn't know this. Some don't though.

This one does not: https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S?sa-no-redirect=1

i was thinking i could get a z-wave wall switch like this. I was hoping there was some kind of wireless/battery powered z-wave switch that i could put on the bedside tables.

On a side note is that GE add on switches basically what i am looking for but not wireless? Meaning do the ge add-on switches simply trigger a different z-wave control (for instance the switch by the door)?

I know that GE makes a toggle style z-wave switch; I haven't done much searching for toggle style switches previously, so there may be others too. As far as how they work, I have never used the toggle style switch but on the decora models, yea, it's basically one momentary switch under both sides of the paddle.

I have both of these: GE 12727 (no dimming) & GE 12729 (dimming). They require a Z-Wave hub (I'm using SmartThings 2.0) to integrate with Alexa. The switch + hub + Echo all pair and work together wonderfully.

EDIT: Also no faceplate change needed.
2nd EDIT: You should really be asking this on /r/HomeAutomation instead.

The easiest way is to get a GE Fan Controller and a compatible hub, such as SmartThings, Wink, or Vera.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRF01-1LZ-Capable-Control-Almond/dp/B001HT4M48

Building off of /u/Terrancelee

They are called Fan speed controls

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.

[GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control] (http://amzn.com/B00PYMGVVQ) is what I installed. The picture doesn't show it but there are are a set of 3 LEDs on the vertical plastic strip that show the speed setting selected. I must have dreamed that.

sounds like you have a three way light in your kitchen (two switches control the same light). You'll need one smart switch and one add-on switch
GE add-on switch

You will need the primary switch and the second switch has to be an "add on" switch like this one:

GE 12723 Add-On Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MDgvxbGSX5G0Z

A non-zwave switch won't work.

GE makes "add-on" switches for their Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Bluetooth switches. The normal smart switch is installed on one end (usually where the power comes in from your panel) and an add-on switch gets connected on the other side. These switches do require neutral (usually white) wires - as long as you have those, no additional wiring should be needed.

I do not know if there are any wifi switches that work this way. However, I've been using GE's Z-Wave switches with the Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 and Home Assistant and it's been working great! If you're not already locked into a certain technology and don't mind using Z-Wave that would be my recommendation.

BTW it's not difficult to wire them yourself once you know what you're doing. I hired an electrician to wire the first few for me - I watched them, asked questions, and learned how to do the others myself.

I like the GE switches. Currently running 5 though out the house. You can use the GE switch and purchase a add on switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493836027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41glGOvc3NL&ref=plSrch

I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.

You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.

Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.

So does GoControl, and I love it specifically because it leaves the swich in the on position. Installation is a breeze, and the switches are only $15 on Amazon. (Note, technically, it's a button, not a switch.)

Edit: Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/

Not OP but I have my Silvia with PID on a smart switch and I love it. I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it handles up to 1400w or 1800w.

I have the Wemo insight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=emc_b_5_t

Not op but maybe something like this?

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWSHyb1RHJ7SE

If you use an Alexa-Enabled device, Google Assistant or Apple HomeKit you can simply talk to the device or use the app to control lighting in addition to a traditional switch.

For example:

Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bC1VBbAZ0T8FT

Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.

If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.

The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.

Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!

I use this for my ceiling fan: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500032800&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+switch but you're also going to need a smart things hub (or any other compatible hub) unfortunately google home can't act as the hub for all the smarthome stuff.
Smart things : https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500032886&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+things

With those two I can just say "Hey google turn on the fan"

EDIT: it appears that switch just uses wifi now and not zwave, eliminating the need for the hub

You'd need a pi W, power supply for the pi, box, and then dimmer hardware you could control from the pi ( https://www.amazon.com/Dimmer-Module-Controller-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B06Y1GVG26 these guys work fine)

there are also prebuilt home automation compatible dimmers that you could install, which can be run from a web interface or smartphone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU ) these guys run ~$25-30

I use the GE smart switches with a smart things hub.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACMvCb57QX7S0

I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).

Here's what I recommend:

1. Get and install a SmartThings Hub along with the iOS and watchOS apps (if you install SmartThings Classic, your phone can send and install the watchOS app to your watch through the Watch app).
   
2. There is a SmartApp for SmartThings you can install to connect to and control your MyQ garage door
   
3. Ring already works with SmartThings, so nothing to really do here.
   
4. For the lighting, I recommend installing smart switches, replacing your existing light switches for the lights in question. I like the GE switches myself.
   
5. If you really want to be able to control everything from your Mac(s), install and configure HomeBridge. This bit of software will emulate Apple HomeKit for the devices connected to your SmartThings Hub. Then you can simply use the Home app built into macOS 10.14 to connect to and organize your devices for use on your Macs, iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch.
   
   HTH!

Sounds like you need a smart dimmer plug

If you don’t have a hub you can use a WiFi one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7

Otherwise I would recommend a zwave one, I use the one from GE and it works well.

Any zigbee or zwave wall button.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW130-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519484260&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+button&dpID=31Gdf7LqzwL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

GE outdoor plug is on sale right now on amazon.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, 1 Weather-Resistant Outlet Cover, Plug-in, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14284, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_La48BbP4JGXCX

Here's a GE z-wave outdoor plug.

I would get a Lutron Dimmer Switch & Remote Kit (or the Lutron Dimmer Switch Starter Kit if it is your first Lutron purchase).

It is $60 (or $100 for the starter kit), but it is the best HomeKit lighting control system you can get.

You would replace the (presumably) upstairs switch with the Lutron Dimmer, and then use the Lutron Pico Remote in the basement.

I know it is more expensive and somewhat more complicated than what you asked for, but you won't be sorry with the Lutron products.

Specifically, this kit of you want a standalone solution for this one room: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/

Or this kit if you want it to be connected to the internet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5V6M6G/

They are currently $16

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=pd_sim_421_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BYZ0MK34QEHRJMPAEQP

The Trane works without the subscription, but the GoControl for the garage door does not.

If you just want a switch that turns a fan on/off with no speed control, you can use Lutron Caseta's non-dimming switch. It requires a neutral wire.

I have never heard of LC before this thread so I trotted over to Amazon to see what I could see. The 2nd non-sponsored result was Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Switch for All Bulb Types and Fans, PD-6ANS-WH, White, Works with Amazon Alexa. Is there really no fan control or am I misunderstanding?

They are fairly easy to install IF you are comfortable with electricity. They do come with easy to follow instructions.

Here is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wV2ozbBHNPJ6X

Both these devices weren't previously supported by Wink Hub 2:

• https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-Multi-Location/dp/B017LRCG38/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PJ2-2B-GWH-L01-Remote-Control-White/dp/B00KLAXOE8/
  
  That being said, I have used the Caseta binary switch with Wink hub 1 and it worked until Wink updated the firmware when Hub 2 was released.
  
  It is kind of nice that Caseta Pro dimmers are also supported now .... the Pro dimmers support higher wattage loads.

Here's an option

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

I'd try something like this:

GoControl WA00Z-1 Z-Wave Scene-Controller Wall Switch (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OVnkzbF6605V6

However, I defer to the community if there's something confirmed.

1. Correct. All controllers can pull that off however you should keep in mind some controllers (wink/smart things) lose some functionality when the internet (or their cloud) is down.
   
   
2. Odds are you can do what you want but I'm not sure when you'd want to eliminate local control entirely.
   
   
3. Wifi device support is pretty sketchy across the board. Assuming the pond pump is run off your house panel, you could just add a zwave switch where the wiring leaves your house. Or if you don't have space for a gang box switch, you could add these in your house: https://www.buydig.com/shop/product/AEONDSC27/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd-Edition-DSC27103-ZWUS
   
   
4. I don't have wink, so can't say. I'd suggest comparing it to something like the RTS CT101 (aka Lowe's Iris) zwave thermostat. It works with a huge range of HVAC systems and is quite inexpensive.
   
   
5. Any zwave switch will do, assuming you don't need a dimmer.
   The device you want is called a "scene controller" and there are actually lots of them. I think for your uses you might like this one:
   https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-wireless-keypad-controller
   
   or https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499479563&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+scene+controller+battery
   
   I have a couple of minimotes (https://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=E1AEONMINIMOTE ) in my house scattered around. The rechargeable batteries are generally good for ~2 months. I use a label maker to make the buttons purpose clear. My minimotes general have one button for thermostat up, another for thermostat down, and then two different lamp/lighting functions.

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/

I'm considering buying this plug to try out, it's supposedly rated for 1800 W and has a smartphone app that shows the consumption:

https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Monitoring-Enabled-Anywhere-Assistant/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524980691&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wemo+insight

Otherwise, I would just try to charge when empty and use the total capacity of the battery as a rough estimate. So, for a fully empty 2015, it's going to need about 11 kWh. Divide that by .85 to account for about 85% efficiency of the charger, and multiply that by $0.11/kWh and you have $1.42. So you would owe your roommate $1.42 per full charge.

Since you have a gen 2, I believe that uses 14 kWh of battery, so we're at $1.81 per charge. It's really too bad Chevy doesn't report actual kWh charge amounts, would be really useful for this kind of stuff. Apparently the OBD2 readers can pull that out so that might be worth a Google too.

Another option is a Wemo plug.

The outlet both monitors electric usage, and can be controlled from your phone or programmed for certain times.

I used Wemo

None.

SOJM is home-hosted on this Raspberry Pi stack and is hooked up to this power-measuring smart switch which, unfortunately, has a capacitive switch that's super-sensitive and can be toggled with the lightest brush.

In this case, the switch was brushed "off" without my knowledge (probably by the dog or cat this time), and I brought it online after someone brought it to my attention as soon as I could.

Because the service is home-hosted, any home Internet outages or power outages that outlast the UPS battery-backup that the stack is hooked up to will also cause the service to go down. In other words, while the service is usually up, it's not so crazy that it goes down every once in a while.

I could probably add a service status indicator to future versions of the script so that the cause of the problem when it happens is more visible, but I've been super-busy with programming contracts and haven't really worked on mTurk or any of the tools I've made for it in months.

Check out TP link smart switches

and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs

Hope this helps!

(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)

I have two switches in my apartment and love them while they are single pole, you can wire it into a multipole, just don't ever the other switch. It was easy for us because one switch was on the kitchen counter behind the coffee machine, and the other ended up behind some shelving.

I wired it myself and I have very very limited knowledge on the subject. I think you can set a timer, or at the very least you can use your cell phone to turn it off from the bed.

Also these are hubless, but you can get a hub if you want one.

Yes, you need a smart bulb for every bulb in the fixture.

If you have a neutral in the switchbox (IEC code in America since 2011), you can add a smart switch. Z-Wave, Zigbee smart switches require a hub. Kasa makes a Wifi smart switch as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1536589791&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_amazon_certified%3A16741513011

That's a switch for power outlet. A light switch needs to go in a box in a wall for light switches.

Such a device looks like https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU

Are the outlets connected to switches?

If not you could use something like this

If they are you can use something like this

> tplink wifi switched

I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires

I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).

I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.

My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.

The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.

This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended >
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=L39-100

and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3K3N85T4MQW0J&coliid=IR8FUGM8EHTY&psc=1

Let us know how it works out.

I've recently installed 4 of these, and will be installing 2 more: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480206517&sr=8-6&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug.

They are quick, easy, and work well with Alexa. The TP-Link app is easy to use as well.

I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.

There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).

Hue doesn't make them. The ones I was looking at were made by TPlink, [Kasa](Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XZxdBbTX77TQH).

Thanks for the input. Like this switch and this outlet?

this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AzXtDb8NM8BQF

Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:

1. Break off the tabs before connecting the wires to the switch. I forgot about the tabs on the first one I was doing until after I was ready to start screwing it back into the box. Also in a two-gang box you'll only need to break them off on the inward facing sides. On 3+ gang the central switches would need both sides done. Regardless, breaking them off before rather than after is much easier.
   
   
2. A good pair of pliers makes that much easier. I started out using a crappy pair of pliers from the toolkit that came as a "free gift" with the house because they happened to be closer at hand. The work could've been done with those pliers, but it became about 5 times easier and faster when I went out to the garage to get a better pair out of the toolbox.
   
   
3. On a couple of the switches I was working on, I noticed there was way more wire in the box than is actually needed. Normally I would be in favor of leaving excess extra in case it is needed for some future change, but a pair with a pair of wire cutters/strippers you can remedy much of the cursing other users are warning about when stuffing everything back in by removing some of the excess. Obviously only do that if you're confident you're leaving enough to work with both now and in the future.
   
   
4. Not related to the wiring, but I believe the one you linked to is not Z-wave Plus (just regular Z-wave). The Z-wave Plus version is available (looks like the same price right now, though the Plus version was actually slightly cheaper recently) here.
   
   
5. Also not related to wiring, but I've noticed there is a brief delay with the GE switches (I got the z-wave plus version, but I don't think that is the problem) between pressing it and the lights activating. This was even before connecting to any hub, so it's not a delay there. I'm assuming it's something I'll get used to in time, but it's worth being aware of before you buy them.

This one does double tap:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511215435&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+zwave+switch&dpID=41orYO6Z%252BWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

Do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

I wouldn't recommend WiFi smart switches. Maybe one or two, sure, but you should try to keep your WiFi devices to a minimum for best WiFi performance.

Look at getting a hub and z-wave switches/dimmers. GE makes some good ones, switch and dimmer. Z-wave devices form a mesh and talk to each other on a completely separate wireless band than WiFi, so it won't hurt your WiFi performance.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259191&sr=8-1&keywords=aotech+zstick&dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259245&sr=8-3&keywords=zigbee+dongle&dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537259343&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+wave&dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?

I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.

This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

​

Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.

Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.

Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...

I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.

The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.

Leviton wifi plugin dimmer should meet those criteria. No relay noise as it's a dimmer, and the LED light can be turned off in the settings.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7/

This one is a better form factor, but has the relay noise and is not a dimmer
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B07H3JVZJZ/?th=1

2-second google search: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7

now if you're asking why the cheap ones don't, thats a different story...

Oh wow, I have non-24 and not very much money, so I've actually been working on doing basically the same thing! Right now I have some fluorescent grow lights plugged into a wemo switch, and let me tell you..... it's certainly not the same.

The bad news is that from what I can find, there's no real good way to do it cleanly if you want dimming, since most smart plugs are a simple binary on/off. I have found a few options though!

(I'm sure you know but please note the requisite be super careful around AC voltage, it'll make you dead)

The first is something along the lines of this, what's meant to be an in-wall dimmer to replace a 1-gang light switch. That's probably gonna be the easiest way to do it -- just attach it to the wires in-line, and you're good to go. There are other, similar options that may be cheaper, especially if you can use something like z-wave.

I don't have a link atm, but I also know that I've seen someone take a normal cheapo wall dimmer and just... hook a lil servo motor up to it. That's also an option?

After some searching, I did find what seems to be the one plug-in smart dimming outlet that doesn't require a hub. Heads-up though, it's only rated to 100W with LEDs so you'll wanna be careful. Not having look much into this, I make no promises, but my cursory googling actually seems really promising. Price isn't horrible, either.

So here's where I thought to check the wonderful world of Sonoff. It's not the CLEANEST solution visually, but they actually do make a smart socket -- if you're willing to drop $60 and be done, just get six of these guys here.

EDIT: Just kidding, those bases also do not have dimmers, so they won't work. But here's a video of someone using one of their surprisingly cheap wall dimmers to do just what you want!

The only thing I don't like about this is the smart switch. I'd love if they could fade off and on. Any ideas for a smart controller/smart dimmer? Maybe there's a smart outlet that has dimming capabilities.

Edit: Found one

This?

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xLhIAb01C1JFD


ZRC-90US, BW8510US, by Remotec, Cert ID: ZC10-15100007
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016YTTIVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MMhIAbWNA3TM2

This guy maybe? https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW129-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD/

It has a rechargeable battery but I assume you could just leave it plugged in. It has a MicroUSB connector.

I just ordered one of these to play with. Would meet your needs but over kill possible. I understand they come in a double also

Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW130-A WallMote Quad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LccSAbVFT0NQH

This works great if I understand what you are asking

I used this one for our Halloween setup. Worked pretty well (and I think it's currently on sale.)

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_5631bd19_NA&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Edit: Nevermind, this is zwave, not wireless.

If your transformer has a timer, it may have to be set for "always on".

Likewise if you have a daylight detector, it will take priority, so your lights won't work until the sun goes down.

Otherwise there's no reason an exterior zwave switch wouldn't work. That one does fine for lights on my fence and patio.

Try GE outdoor plug made by Jasco I think! I have one and works fine and just saw it’s on sale!!! GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Outdoor Smart Plug Switch, 1 On/Off Outlet, Weather-Resi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p9MMDbX15AAQZ

Sure thing!

So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.

So, things you'll need:

A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/

A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/

A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/

Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/

A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/

An old micro USB phone charger

A MicroSD card reader


So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/  and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.

After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.

From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.

Hope that helps :-)

I have all my outdoor Christmas lights plugged into this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3

Its about 20 strings of lights total, mostly LED. No problems; I have a simple rule setup with WebCore to turn the lights on at Sunset and off at midnight.

You just want to make sure whatever smart switches you buy support 3-way configurations. Lutron Caseta does this by using their Pico Remotes, which is nice because the Picos are cheaper and easier to install than a second smart switch, but look and function pretty much just like a wired switch. I believe Caseta also offers a more expensive smart switch that allows traditional 3-way wiring too if for whatever reason you didn't want to use the Pico remotes.

You can see what I'm talking about here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=3-0-VW5kZXIgJDc1&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07HM6L48C&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

The switch comes with a "remote kit" (the Pico), which when screwed in to a switch box looks just like the switch, and the remote pairs to the switch to control the same light seamlessly. Lutron provides very good instructions for their products too.

edit: This starter kit adds the required hub as well, and includes everything you would need for your stair lights. Some will scoff at hubs, but it's needed for Caseta because they use RF for wireless communication, and I think the hub is worth it for Caseta at least because it's probably the fastest responding, most reliable smart switches available. Hubless Wi-Fi switches will never be as reliable and consistent. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNzUgYW5kICQxMDA%3D&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07G5V6M6G&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

I just installed Lutron Caseta switches on some three-way circuits. You replace one of the switches with a new switch, and then you tie all the wires from the second switch together and mount a Pico remote in its place. Works well, and works with Homekit.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C

We actually have a bunch of Lutron Caseta switches which work great. Those ones you posted look nicer without leds on them but we really like the rotary/knob dimmers. They seem to match the house. We’re getting gouged for it though.

Really the door should be moved, but if you didn't want to move the door. Lutron has some cool stuff. They have switches that you can pair with a little remote you can stick on the wall. It even comes with double sided tape on the back. place the little remote on the other side of the wall. Here's a link:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C

If you are doing z-wave replace your far switch with a wireless 3-way switch. This one works great. Then disconnect or cap off your power to that box. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mnc4DbXWKEZ40

Even easier!

Buy a clapper and get to the office early one day and install it into the main power feed to his/her equipment. I think you know what to do from here.

And now I'll feel like a damn hell ass king instead of a lazy slob when using the Clapper.

[Try this](The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch (Clapper Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2OxGDbRRKD5A2)

Just download the Clap App to your hand and its g2g!

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Activated-Detection-Appliances-Technology/dp/B0000CGKLR . 22% serious.

What year is it?


That took me all the way back to the 90's. I haven't gotten into using sensors with the pi, but it looks interesting

Are you dead set on snapping fingers? Or would a clap work? If so, try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZrYSCb1DRS58T

Would something like this work? Or does the lamp not turn on after being unplugged/powered off?

Ah, you'd think the switch would be waterproof given it's designed location, but unless it specifies it I wouldn't put it in a wet location. You could bypass using the one supplied and put in a mag like this one https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484926127&sr=8-7&keywords=pin+switch

Two of these (one for each door) could be your sensors. I recommend you connect them to a little 2-chip electronic circuit that you've built, which

• detects when one or both doors are open
  
  
• watches to see that a door has been open for 30 consecutive seconds
  
  
• then beeps a beeper
  
  Glue the sensors to the fridge using removable glue, such as silicone caulk. Now you can resell the fridge in pristine original condition if you so desire

You need one that is "Normally closed" or "N.C."
This one has both "Normally closed" and "Normally open" and will work
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/
.
I really like this line -- Ships from and sold by Amazon.com.
.
There is also this type that uses a button that is pressed when the door is closed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDT2MC/ref=psdc_13397451_t1_B00M0YP1PS
From the picture, you can see "COM", "NC", and "NO"
COM and NC are electrically connected when the button is NOT pushed, but
COM and NO are electrically connected when the button is pushed (<-not important to your design)
.
Btw, something to consider before you go too far. Plan ahead and verify things will work.
There is an old saying "measure twice, cut once". In woordworking I learned a term "dry-fit",
which means to fit all the pieces together without glue or nails to make sure things will fit properly.

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

Lutron Casseta has one, but that falls into the category of requiring a hub. However Alexa and Harmony can both control that hub.
I think the Aeontec micro dimmer switches can be wired up in a 3 way configuration. Just watch your power draw on them. However, you will need a z-wave hub to accommodate, which the harmony hub can't do by itself.
And I think these GE Switches should be capable of being wired in three way because they have a traveler wire. However, you will again need a hub to manager z-wave devices.

What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.

Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch

Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.

Yes, I have this working with my smart things and the non dimming one would work as well. As I understand it, the slightly more expensive ge ones are self reporting - meaning when you physically switch it, it updates the hub. GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-62LxbDYY3DQS

I've not seen any smart rotary dimmers on the market. Being that a smart switch is kind of a blend between a traditional switch and a way to push buttons, I'm not sure how a rotary would even work. It seems like it would be very difficult for the tactile knob and the digital settings to be in sync. I suppose it could be a spring driven resistance type thing, but idk.

For paddle type dimmers, there's tons of options, such as this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

So these switches don't work directly with Alexa? Why don't they just say that?

Edit: This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/?th=1 says specifically, "Compatable with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Pulse, Trane, Wink, Alexa..." Do I trust that?

Thanks for your feedback, it was incredibly helpful. So These are the switches I will get since the lights I got for my rooms are LED Dimmable. I'll get the smart things hub as well to interact between the switch and my echo, but what do I use to program all the details. For example how do I get alexa to recognize "bedroom 1" name when I talk to her and have her interact with it. Is there a software program I use to manage all these devices and name them, etc?

Also, my light switches do not have a ground since the house is older, so I'll have to have an electrician come out and figure out a way to install these switches

Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:

1. Controlled "appliances"
   
   
2. A hub
   
   
3. A controller
   
   I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
   
   All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
   
   These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
   
   The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
   
   As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
   
   The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
   
   I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.

Samsung smartthings hub is on sale on amazon for a great price, and then you can get a GE zwave dimmer to go with it. Perhaps this is controversial to say in the IFTTT sub but i would add the switch to google home directly from the smartthings hub, which allows you to talk more naturally about your lights and avoids having to hard code a bunch of variations in IFTTT.

yeah, that's not normal. 6 LED bulbs definitely shouldn't overload a dimmer switch (a quick look at the dimmer switch data sheet says it should handle 150W of LED load), but an easy way to test is to unscrew all but one of them and see if that single bulb has full dimming range. You might also take one of these bulbs and put it in a normal switched light socket, and see if it goes to full brightness.

If the flickering is happening to all the bulbs at the same time, it's almost certainly the dimmer switch. All 6 bulbs having an identical flaw seems pretty unlikely. The flicker indicates it's not a software issue with your Vera, either.

Both the GE zwave dimmers and the Linear/2gig zwave dimmers work pretty well and are about the same price as that dragon tech dimmer. It's also possible your dragon tech dimmer is just a one-off lemon and the brand itself is generally fine.

If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.

This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.

This for the fan control.

If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.

Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.

Is that the same thing as this? But just branded for iris? If so, I may be interested!

Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.

I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.

I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.

Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.

Happy gaming!

OP, if you can't find a solution I got myself a pair of these and they work great. Just click them on before I'm about to start VR and you're good to go.

I got a set of these and they work well. Might be something to consider.

I got these.

There is less than no reason for the outlet part to be that big.

Hmm, that's weird. I haven't had an issue at all with a noise.

If I was having that issue, I'd probably get one of those cheap remote control outlet things. Then you could just click them on wirelessly when you want to fire up SteamVR. Not ideal though, if HTC had better customer service I'd tell you to try to exchange them for ones that work normally. But god knows that'll be more trouble than help.

I use these. The only problem with them is if the power goes out, they do not turn themselves back on. I don’t worry about this as my pumps are on a battery backup that will last ~90 hours before they die.

How about Etekcity rf controlled ac plugs?

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK

Before using those TPLink things, which are $35 per outlet, if you have HomeAssistant installed on a Raspberry Pi you can use the cheaper 433mhz remote controlled plugs + a radio for the Pi.

Here's a set of 3 plugs that I bought.
(Here is similar on amazon.ca, which probably will work)

and here's a radio (I've heard that the cheaper ones work less well, and you should find a "superheterodyne" one, which I can't find on amazon.ca -- maybe aliexpress or ebay if you can wait?)

and the rpi-rf home assistant configuration:
https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/

Your suggested more expensive switch can probably be polled to see if they're on or off, and probably confirms a state change. This solution the communication is one way and hope-it-works. My experience is it is working most of the time - there is the occasional missed command.

may be you are looking for something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

https://www.amazon.com/JTD-Auto-programmable-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B013F9JJ72

It is US though and it smart plug.

Alternatively, you could do something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DV89V83YHJHXVDBEVMD5

Either use one per machine or just get 1 and plug a power strip into it.

Number of machines has a few factors, basically will all boil down to the amp draw per machine. I would guess 2.5-3amps is probably a safe number to assume, and that's probably a pretty pessimistic number for the most part. If you have a 15A breaker, you could have 5 machines give or take on one circuit.

Realistically, most are probably in the 2A area. But give yourself some room and don't instantly max out a circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use these

key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.

Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-14

Install a light switch guard over the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478112560&sr=8-2&keywords=Light+Switch+Guard

Thats what I have done for switched lights that I'm using smart bulbs with.

There are proper ways to remove a switch in a circuit but without consulting an electrician that's familiar with the code where you live I'd not try to DIY it.

The Lutron Caseta also has an on/off switch (no dimming) that will pair to Wink.

http://www.amazon.com/Amp-Max-Multi-Location-Incandescent-PD-5S-DV-WH/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1420417941&sr=8-10&keywords=lutron+caseta

I have a ceiling fan with a light and this could be a perfect solution for that. Obviously I won't be able to control the ceiling fan from Wink, but I can at least automate the lights hopefully.

I know I'm late to the party and I'm not sure if you'd learned this since this post, but Lutron makes simple on/off Caseta switches that also do not require a neutral. I just installed 2 of these last week and they work great

The 3-ways can be used in a single setup just by capping the runner wire. I don't have any of them in 3-way setups; the one 3-way I do have I converted to a single-switch and then a wireless remote at the other end.

If you look at the picture at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCEMBIA (which is what I have) then the blue is the runner and can be capped off. The "tabs" on either side snap off to reduce the size so they fit into a multi-gang.

I got you fam. I know you already returned them but Lutron makes switches that don't require a neutral. They're not exactly cheap but they work, they're just simple on/off switches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NCEMBIA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're talking about the PD-5WS-DV-WH switch, I bought one from a wholesale website I've never heard of. Wink thinks it's a dimmer, but it works just fine. Anything above 0% is ON.

A couple of those wholesalers are selling it through Amazon now. I also got this two button pico remote to match.

-WRONG-
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S

I also have 40+ bulbs running halogen and LED bulbs on the Caseta dimmers. Saying it only works for incandescent is about as wrong as saying fire isn't hot.

This version does not require a neutral wire: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6375e697-f226-4dbd-a63a-5ec697811ee1&pd_rd_wg=9oR2m&pf_rd_r=KV3RC57B2ZYK24SD4QJJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00NO7Z80S&pd_rd_w=Wixqj&pf_rd_i=lutron+caseta+switch+no+neutral&pd_rd_r=434a6c78-33e0-4242-9011-d81893c71658&ie=UTF8&qid=1543564774&sr=2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NO7Z80S/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A27U5ZM1ERPBP4&psc=1

Edit to add: if you’ve got several switches you want to replace it may be cheaper to get dimmer switches and new bulbs.

For the same price as 2 of these switches you can get 2 dimmers and a 16 pack of dimmable bulbs

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

I just replaced the switches in a four gang box with these which are being controlled by a Smartthings hub.

The GE Z-wave switches are the only toggle type switches I could find. They can be purchased as regular switches or dimmers and can do three or four way switching.

They fit in my box, cramped but, it worked.

Cloud based control from your phone or Alexa. Switch still works like a regular switch, it just stays in the middle all the time.

Nice thing is you can buy others and add them as you want.

I've been using the GE z-wave toggle switches with SmartThings and haven't had any issues. I initially tried to avoid replacing the switches and put in the smart bulbs but our issue was if the power goes out in the middle of the night the bulbs would then turn on and wake us up. The other added benefit with the switches is that anyone visiting doesn't need anything special to control the lights (parents, friends, dog watchers).

Just as a tip, when installing the switches we had issues with them working in the first hour or so (probably due to needing to do the z-wave network repair). Initially the z-wave network repair was failing. What I found worked was to install the switch, connect to smartthings and do setup for a couple minutes, flip breaker to kill power to switch for 10 minutes, turn breaker back on, and then run the z-wave network repair. Since doing that process we've had zero issues. Hope this helps you out.

Edit: Here is the link to how to do SmartThings Z-Wave Repair :) https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200981864-How-do-I-make-sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-

It sounds like you want an on/off switch.

GE makes those but other manufacturers probably do as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

We recently installed these GE switches and have so far liked them a lot. They don't look dramatically different from traditional switches, and you can then use whatever bulb you need in the actual outlet.

Just as a note, we did have issues with the newer SmartThings app automating the lights coming on at night and going off in the morning, but it seemed to be an issue with the app- we used the classic app and it's worked perfectly ever since.

The switch I'm installing tonight/tomorrow is just a GE Z-wave switch, one of these. The fan that I have operates on standard 110 power, it's almost exactly one of these

Installing it last weekend was a lot of work, so I haven't ran a real switch to it yet. I cheated and wired it up to an extension cord, and plugged that in to a wifi outlet. I just wanted to see it in action and ran out of time before mother's day plans happened.

So no existing timer switch yet. If I wasn't doing a z-wave switch, I'd be installing a timer switch like you have. That's what my neighbor has and he says it works great. I'll use a timer component to set this up so that it turns off automatically after a period as well.

EDIT: Also, thanks for making me think about automatic "shut off" conditions! Auto shut off is a great idea.

I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.

This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).

I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.

On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068632&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068575&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+smart+fan+control

GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k.W2wbCC5SW29The GE Fan Control switch works. You'll have to have a switch for both the fan and light.

You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.

It's a standard Hampton Bay fan, but it's controlled with a GE ZWave fan wall switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O5FnzbVCPG00Y

If you're patient, Lowe's periodically marks them down to $35.

Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.


GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

The most popular way to control fans is to get one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ) and link it through smartthings

This is a Z Wave compatible switch designed to control a fan.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

There are a ridiculous number of options, but based on my bedroom:

A 52" Haiku H series with SensMe (HA integration) in a dark finish wood, with satin nickel base, on a level 9' ceiling, with a light fixture, and wall switch is $1315.00.

Or you can go to Amazon and buy a more sensible fan for $100-$300 dollars, and set up most of the same rules using a multi sensor and a z-wave fan control.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?keywords=Ceiling%20fan%20z-wave&qid=1458787380&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

I think you might have the most flexibility with getting a smart light switch that status can be read from and a smart outlet that can be remote controlled. Then write the code to make it do the thing. It might be hard to get it to be instantaneous?

The cheap way is to buy this and stick the wall switch next to the existing one, making turning the far light less of a hassle.

The last option is to call an electrician, which will give you more robust options.

Thanks guys, great ideas. I may just end up keeping it on or buy something like this:

GE Wall-Switch Light Control Remote with 1 Outlet Receiver, Wireless, White, 18279 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R7Q7PT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_84szybSEGFAY6

And put the switch under my desk or something and power it on remotely when I want to play.

OK, I can see a couple of ways to go with getting you some light. First is to mount some recessed lights, that don't need a recessed fixture:

https://www.aspectled.com/collections/led-recessed-ceiling-lights/products/6-ultra-thin-recessed-light-9w#tab-2

Here is how you install them:

http://info.aspectled.com/hubfs/downloads/installation_guides/aspectLED_Ultra-Thin_Recessed_LED_Light_Installation.pdf

If that doesn't work for you, then you can control outlets wirelessly from your wall switch:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wall-Switch-Receiver-Wireless-18279/dp/B00R7Q7PT4

NOTE: The above is for illustration only. There must be 50 products that can do a version of this for you. You can also use your home network, your smartphone, or your digital assistant to do the work, as well. "Alexa, dim the lights to 20%".

Head on over to /r/smarthome and /r/homeautomation to see what other folks are doing.

Warning: If you get into home automation, it can become addictive. I control my ceiling fans, interior and exterior lights, TV and home theater, HVAC, door locks, and home security system, all by voice control.

My bedroom doesn't have a light switch, so I bought a wireless light switch, which works really well.

(I live in a rented apartment, otherwise I would probably have wired up an actual one.)

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.

In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?

> I will get the switches wired correctly and only install one z wave switch. As everyone has pointed out 2 would be overkill.

You need two switches still. Just one of them needs to be an add-on switcht. Or buy it as a kit.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC

It's probably cheaper to just buy them individually though:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B0035YRCR2?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

We had twinkle lights. Everywhere. Hooked up to a clapper, actually. It was fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR

[You need one these good sir/madam.](http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR "What's that, Marge? I can't hear you! I'm clapping!")

There are wifi enabled plugs that can be controlled via an app.

Or, just get a clapper

The motherfucking clapper.
CLAP ON BITCH

Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1450366349&sr=1-1&keywords=The+clapper.....also maybe any hardware store like True Value or B & G's.

1. Purchase The Clapper
   
2. Attach The Clapper to PC
   
3. ???
   
4. PROFIT!!!

or use clapping

but investing in that is probably stupid because when you pay $10 per outlet you could just upgrade to full home automation anyway

http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

Here ya go

Or how about just by clapping? ;)

May I suggest that ?

http://www.amazon.com/The-Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch/dp/B0000CGKLR

But I can't whistle! D: Also, there's this thing that's similar.

Ah completely different topic than I was expecting. The 12 solution I showed for the $18 battery seems like it would a perfect rechargeable replacement with significantly longer battery life.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08

May be an alternative solution with a magnetic switch. You could put one end of the magnet on the trunk. As this magnetic package isn't the best, you can probably take any strong magnet and paint it black and adhere that in some fashion you see appropriate to the back of your trunk, and the light will turn on upon opening of the trunk.

I'm surprised they didn't put a light in that compartment for when you open the trunk, my civic hatchback has one back there which I've considered replacing with high end LEDs.

Ok, didn't know they used reed switches in those things. I thought they used hall effect sensors. You can get cheap reed switches, but would need to do some soldering or use a breadboard. Conversely, using a window alarm such as this will cost a bit more but give a more professional look.

I used this one in my closet, behind a bifold door.

So far so good, been working reliably.

So would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=nc+door+switch&qid=1573847969&sr=8-6

I'm just confused because the circuit is complete when it isn't pressed in because the power contact is grounded, but when the switch is pressed in, the ground is lost and then open circuit, right?

you can get a basic magnetic switch if you want the lights to always be on when the door opens. check this out.
https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520624376&sr=8-4&keywords=magnetic+door+switch&dpID=41DVM6RPZAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Wire this into the power lead from the power supply, or even after the controller, on the 12v lead to the LED strip, that way controller is always powered and keeps it's settings 100%, and you rely on the door switch to complete or disconnect the circuit.

I bought a laser crosshair that runs off of a 5V wall-wart. It's mounted on the garage ceiling and lined up to a point on my dashboard. I combined that with a simple magnetic switch wired from the garage door so it only comes on when the door is open.

The laser lines are long enough so I can use it to guide me in.

This has allowed me to place my car within 1/4" of where I need it to be so I can open the doors and trunk without banging into something (There is literally 1/2" clearance for a couple of the doors).

Hope this helps.

So I had several closets that were very dark and hard to see in. None had outlets and I didn't feel like getting anything wired in. So I made these lights using AA batteries. You can find everything on Amazon. Perfect for apartments too! One closet comes in at around $30, less if you don't get nice rechargeable batteries like I did.

Switch
Lights
Case

Overall I spent about $126 because I used a lot of material that I already had (baseboard, paint, romex).


Materials Used:

Leftover 7/16" OSB sheathing cut to size

(2) Closetmaid Cubeicals

Existing baseboard

1" x 12" pine board

Shelf hardware

Paint

Painter's Putty

Caulk

Primed Quarter Round

LED light strip

12v Power Supply

(2) LED PCB connectors

Magnetic Door Switch

(2) Old Work Boxes

Romex Cable

Outlet

Outlet Cover

^ This - just setup an aeotec zwave dry contact sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155HSUUY ) connected to a magnetic reed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08 ). Had to drill a small hole for wiring in the bottom of my metal mailbox and mounted the sensor outside the box (for reception) - put the sensor directly underneath the box and it seems to be well hidden and protected from the elements with excellent long distance range.

The setup has been a game changer for me - i get an immediate smartthings alert the second the box is opened. I startled my neighbor the other day when he put mis-delivered mail in my box and i was outside 10 seconds later to greet him.

I went through the following tutorial recently and got my after market pedal working on RB4.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Custom-Rock-Band-Pedal-just-like-the-Destroye/

I bought the following magnetic switch and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Depending on how you run the wire, you can use normally closed or normally open. There were instructions for each setup on various sites, so I went with one that can do either to make sure I was set.

All you have to do is buy a mono plug cable (as opposed to stereo), strip it, hook it up to the magnetic switch, glue one side of the switch to the pedal, the other side to a point on the pedal where the sides are close to touching when the pedal is pressed, and you're good to go.

You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.

Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.

I'd suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.

White is the neutral. Three wires would be black (hot), white(neutral) and the bare copper (ground).
When you would see more wires is for a 3-way light switch or a ceiling fan with a light where you may see a red wire.


Last week I installed a 3-way switch using the GE switches(Dimmer and Add-on). It was quite a hassle for a non-electrician because there are so many possible wiring configurations. I had to bust out my multi-meter and do some trial and error for over an hour to determine the hot, neutral, line, load and two travelers.
In my case the hot and neutral were in two different switch boxes but luckily I had another switch in that same box that had a neutral (they all go back to the same place, neutral bus bar)

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

This one shows 500W but it says nothing about Halogen. I have no idea if there needs to be a differentiation?

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462298941&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+dimmer

Does this allow it to work as a dimmer, or just as a binary switch?

The Amazon page says it's NOT WINK compatible

But name-brand GE is cheaper?

This is the one I've been using:

GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LzDxbDAQFFY3

Most old dimmers would make my lights flicker or buzz... and this was back when only incandescent bulbs could be dimmed. It's not anything to worry about, but it's definitely annoying. It really depends on the type of bulb as some are worse than others.

Newer LED bulbs may humm similarly when dimmed though some will blink. I have several completely quiet ones but I also have several that say they are dimmable but don't dim that much until you get down to 40% and they definitely hum past that. Though the buzz isn't nearly as loud as I remember incandescent bulbs with x10 dimmers. I'm using the GE zwave dimming wall switches.

Check the reviews of any bulbs you're interested in and make sure others mention how well they work with dimmers. I have a handful of "dimmable" bulbs that will dim, but start blinking or buzz when they get low. But I got them because they were cheap and didn't do my research.

the beauty of the z-wave light switches is that if somebody turns off the light by hand, you can always switch it back on with automation. so you'll always be able to control the hues from automation app.
[these ge switches](GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KEO3xbHRNDQBB)

another reason i went with z-wave switches is that i can mix and match my bulb types. some fixtures can be plain led bulbs and still have on/off or dimming capability via the switch.

the velcro solution is a neat one and i'd probably end up doing just that if i was in an apt or unwilling to spend extra money.

??? any dimmer or on off GE switch can be made into a 3 way as long as you add the add-on switch or dimmers. there is a piece of tape on the back that covers the traveler you take off. PM me if you have questions ...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

I'm technically savvy but more on the software side than the hardware side. I was geared up to do it myself until I started reading about 3-phase light switches (when you have more than one switch that controls a set of lights) and then it started to go over my head with load, line, neutral, etc...I figured: "Hey, I don't wanna burn my house down. Let's leave this to the pros."


I've done a ton of research but there is so much information out there that the more you look the less you know. I was looking at the GE 12724 but I'm open to recommendations as well.


I do know I'll be using the Samsung SmartThings hub for the brains of the whole thing. I'll likely tie in a Logitech Harmony hub in there too along with a Google Home for voice activation.


Thanks!

it might work, but it certainly isnt officially compatible. lutron holds a patent, and the 45612 expressly states it's for incandescent use only. actually, all of them are 'for incandescent use'.

edit: sorry, man, this one got under my skin, and is why crowd sourced information is both awesome and awful at the same time. for anyone else reading, DO NOT use incandescent dimmer switches to dim LED bulbs. most will end up with bulbs that buzz and flicker while dimmed, and the dim level won't be consistent. with that said, it is possible to get them working as long as you have enough LED bulbs strung together to get above the typical load limit (20/30W, maybe higher) for an incandescent dimmer to operate properly. but don't do it, it's just bad practice.

well, shit. i didnt know this existed. if this is what you were talking about, my bad, you're right.

GE 12724

i guess not, that requires a neutral.

Thank you for taking the time to reply, every bit of help is appreciated.

Maybe you can clarify. I have two GE 12724's. Just focusing on the 'master', near the breaker first- I only have three connections and ground, not four. If you look at the second picture here, the fourth connection is covered, and says 'no 120V'.

Secondly, and less importantly, can I used a second 12724 as a slave? I can always replace it later on with an aux switch, I'd just like to have light for the time being at least. Worst case, I do have a manual three way I could toss in for the time being too.

Lastly, god forbid I made the connections incorrectly, are these switches prone to burning out with swapped line and load, or do they simply (and I imagine more likely) just not work?

GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.

Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.

I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.

I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.

EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.

EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.

IMO it's not hard at all.

Three wires, two screws and a pretty plate to snap into place. The only difficulty I've run into is being short of space in the box.

I use these in my house.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

Doubtful. You would have to have something that would control the output to the light.

Here's a dimmable smart switch.

I think you are looking for a paddle switch so the light switch doesn't have to be on the "on" position all the time. I see a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482999401&sr=1-4&keywords=Ge+paddle or this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 I can't speak for Hue or LIFX and Nest because I think they use their own standard (not z-wave so it doesn't play well with smartthings) other than if you would like to change light colors. If I had a clean slate, I would stick with one standard, z-wave products.

Unless I'm misunderstanding, is this similar to what you're looking for? http://www.smarthome.com/ge-45609-z-wave-wireless-lighting-control-on-off-wall-switch.html

There are large number of switches like that available.

You'll need some kind of hub to get them to work though. I don't think you can with just the hue hub.. but you can use Smarthings or whatever.

Then you can tell the switch to be on or off, which would then turn the bulbs on or off.

They also make dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2

Home depot, lowes, amazon, and everywhere else sells both types.

If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch

I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.

I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:

GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724

The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:

1. The lights fade on/off a bit too slowly for my liking. This however can be changed by altering a setting from your Z-Wave hub, though I haven't had time to fiddle with that yet.
   
   
2. The rocker doesn't depress all the way, it sort of stops half-way and clicks. Most people won't care about this or probably even notice it, but it's a minor pet-peeve of mine.
   
   I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
   
   I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
   
   Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
   
   Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
   
   It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.

You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S

If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.

You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE

You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1


You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote

Yeah, I've personally never counted on the auto-standby stuff working as people were always complaining on /r/vive so I unplug the lighthouses and headset power.

I did get this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1468439174&sr=8-6&keywords=wireless+outlet+switch

But one of the receivers died in a week so returned it and never bought more.

I may give it another shot as either last week's or the week before's SteamVR beta seemed to fix the standby stuff for some. Who knows it may work right for you now that you've ditched the HTC software.

Wireless Christmas tree controls

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

I bought these wireless, remote controlled switches so I can switch the base stations off and on with the remote (and because the buttons are re-assignable I only need a single on-off-pair). Works perfectly fine for me and a lot faster and reliable than the bluetooth standby mode.

Wireless outlet switch remote.

they're still kind of noisy on standby anyway, so I've gone for an external solution instead. These remote controlled outlets are a god send.

Yeah.. I figured out it doesn't seem to exist.. I'm surprised because there are MANY "dumb" plugs with a remote controller (see : https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Control-3Rx-1Tx/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467918751&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+electrical+outlet ). But those don't have WIFI or android app support..

Too bad.. I wanted to have the comfort of clicking on and off easily from the remote without the hassle of going in my phone BUT still have the option to trigger on something while away from home.

Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1

I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.

Use remote power switch to turn on / off headset and base stations. Been using the same base station since OG Vive. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1VJ1VE39CSYMF6AVGFQF

You won't have bluetooth issues. You can also power off headset for a break to cut down the idle temps.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494034604&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+power+plug

This doesn't connect to your network at all, it just uses a traditional RF remote to control the wall dongle. It's theoretically 'hackable' by someone within range, but what's the worst they're going to do, turn your light on and off until you unplug it?

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

I use these.

One for each base station and one for the link/headset.

https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/

Remote controlled power socket

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Wireless-Control-Battery-included/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414525917&sr=8-4&keywords=3+outlet+remote

Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM

I would just get something like this.

Or a new router.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512064862&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=remote+control+outlet&psc=1

We have these sick remote control outlet adapters for each plugin lamp in our home. Just keep the remote in a central place and you’re golden!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjFRS1RJSUs4S0tXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjUwMzI2UkhaQ0tCRkZSNFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNzUwOTYzQkIwMldBVVhDOUtUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0

I always keep mine powered off when not using them. I bought and use this per a recommended accessory thread for the Vive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_21?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9

Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.

That's an easy enough problem to fix, no? I bought a 9-pack of these and put them on the switches that control smart lights:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM

They have tabs on the side that can be removed, so they can either be installed in "impossible to flip without poking a pencil through the hole" or "can be flipped from the side but you can't flip them accidentally".

There are other kinds available, such as those that cover the flat type of switches, larger ones that can cover dimmer sliders and other bulkier things, low profile ones that don't cover the switch but just prevent it from moving, etc.

Personally I live alone, so I just knocked out one of the two tabs on each so that I won't hit them accidentally, but I can still flip them if I need to.

Move the sub and invest in switch covers

Here ya go!
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500206942&sr=8-4&keywords=switch+guard

Switch guards which screw onto the switch plate are available. They are made such that you cannot accidentally flip a switch but must make an effort to do so. Probably a better option than bypassing the switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM

This will probably be the cheapest option.

take your salary, and the salary of everyone in that room, multiply it by the 5 times you know this is going to happen. I bet it's more than the cost of an electrician for half an hour. If your accounting is totally incompetent, the $3 solution is a switch cover: https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=covered+switch&qid=1555082181&s=gateway&sr=8-11

​

This is a business issue 100%. At Joe user's desk is one thing, at a conference room facility, it's stupid to be set up this way. And it's laughable that someone would come to Reddit trying to woe is me my users are idiots when they can't see this.

I use these for Switch guards and they work great:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guards (3 Pack) Clear Toggle Style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqy-AbP3AFFQ6

Otherwise like you said, people always turn the switches off.

Power being off is trickier. I get notices other things are offline, but that could be just my internet and/or that device being dumb.

In case anyone else is looking for similar,it's one of these Shabbat light switch covers.

The smart home finds a new use for what was probably only useful to observant Jews before.

For toggle switches. I just use these


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DTXKOTM/

they're relatively cheap, easy to install, not that ugly and you can uninstall them just as easily.

I have two choices for you.

If you have a neutral, this one has the motion sensor in the switch and uses IR and ultrasound:
Leviton OSSMT-MDW Ultrasonic/Infrared, Dual-Relay Multi-Technology Wall Switch sensor, 2400 Sq. Ft Major & 400 Sq. Ft Minor Motion Coverage, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DA4NY8/

Don't have a neutral? Or the switch isn't in a good place to detect motion? No problem:
Buy a motion sensor:
Lutron LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH Radio Powr Savr Wireless Ceiling-Mounted Occupancy/Vacancy Sensor, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LPET0G/

And a switch it will pair to:
5 Amp Max. 2 Button RF Switch - 120/277V White - Lutron PD-5S-DV-WH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/

This switch doesn't require a neutral.

Looks like this switch can be wired up with a regular 3 way in the garage, so maybe this is the way to go.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NCEMBIA/ref=psdc_6291359011_t2_B017LRCG38

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

This one doesn't require a neutral: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S

I believe this one is an on/off switch that does not require a neutral.

Just be sure whatever switch you use is not a dimmer. A dimmer is not supposed to be attached to a fan. It can burn out your fan motor or worse, start a fire. Here's the one I used for my fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO7Z80S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jv3-BbYZZCWW0

Then I used a regular caseta dimmer to control only the light portion. So now I have a 2 gang box, but I can control both individually. Unfortunately that caseta switch is insanely expensive. I was able to get it for $61 a few months ago. You might have better luck googling that model and buying it from a specialty electrical supply store.

As far as I am aware the dimmers will work weather you have a neutral or not. As for the non dimmer you need a specific model that doesn't need neutral. The PD-5WS-DV switch.

​

These are it if I'm not mistaken, expensive but Lutron Caseta is rock solid in my experience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO7Z80S/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A1GAF1H4JQJZXC&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468330935&sr=sr-1&keywords=ge+zwave

This is the switch I use. They also have paddle switches and dimmers.

I'm not fully following what you are asking for.

You want a smart switch with no dimming capability.

But are you saying you want it to only control one light, or two?

Is this a for a three way switch?

If I have put it together properly, you are just looking for a regular ordinary on/off single pole light switch with no dimming capability?

like this?: switch

I have GE switches in my house... and like you I switched out everything that kinda needs to be smart (I left bathrooms alone, visitors don't want a motion sensor in the bathroom :-)).GE does make a toggle style, though if you want my personal opinion i think they are kind of ugly. If you are going to replace almost everything in your house just go with the paddle style.

​

why would you need two hubs? what are you planning on using as a hub?

OKay, so for each 3-way, I'd need something like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=asc_df_B006LQFHN25032304/

and one of these?:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/

(And the hub of course)

I would guess that this would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_khTszb520VX84

However, you may want to check with abode about compatibility.

Thanks for the response BreakfastBeerz. A quick search there makes it seem like this device may work:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45605-Z-Wave-Technology-Receptacle/dp/B00PYMGOHM/

But since our one light has three separate switches in the room I'm hesitant to move forward with this plan due to the expense and complexity that may be involved.

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:

• Like /u/Alwayssunnyinarizona mentioned, expand the gang box so you can add both a Z-Wave dimmer & a Z-Wave fan controller (like the GE 12730) side by side. Since you already have the separate fan and light wiring, this isn't too bad. You would need a drywall saw to expand the hole (or a small saw), [optional] tin snips to cut the old box out, a new 3-gang box and wallplate, and patience.
  
  
• If you have the spare cash, Insteon makes the Fanlinc, which you can hide in the canopy. You could then add an Insteon KeypadLinc. Of course, the gadgets themselves are expensive, and you'd need to add an Insteon modem to your HA setup if you don't already have one. That said, it's as elegant as you'll get without modifying that box.
  
  
• Finally, you could hide a micro dimmer and fan controller in the canopy and use an in-wall scene controller to make your HA hub command them. Not as elegant and more points of failure, but it'll get the job done.

GE 12730. Replaces the switch on the wall. It may come in both deco & toggle styles.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

I'm pretty sure it's this

Our new house came with at least one ceiling fan in every room. I lucked out in that all of them were wired with separate switches or I would be looking at installing zwave switches in the fans themselves. As it is, all I had to do was replace the switchs on the walls with GE 12730

This GE is one of the only ones I have seen. You need to replace the switch in the wall with this though. There is nothing I have found that you can hook up to the fan instead.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Edit: This is just to get the commands to your fan, you would need a Smartthings hub to make the rest work. Not a simple setup I'm afraid.

You could also drop a ton of money on a Big Ass Fan that works with Echo.

https://www.haikuhome.com/?_ga=1.57736226.905240080.1464798273

If you already own the Hunter control, I'm sorry. If not, get this instead. https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

That's really just two switches in one box. You'd replace the left one with any old smarthome light switch.

The right one you'd replace with a fan switch.

Is that hard wired? The reason I asked about the switch is because I'm hoping Hook will help since the switch I referenced uses RF. The GE Fan Switch only controls the fan, not the light kit. Hook should be able to mimic the RF controls for the fan switch that I have and has some Echo integration. This is all speculation at this point, but I'll post once my device arrives by the end of April.

EDIT: Nope, Hook doesn't work with this type of RF connected Fan switch.

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Control-3-Speed-12730/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

Should work for you.

Might be able to install something like this and use it with any fan. http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ and use it with smart things. If you have a fan with infrared control you could hook it up to logitech harmony, then to smart things, then to alexa.

While I'm certainly envious of your handiwork with an Arduino and a soldering iron, I have two of these z-wave switches, and it's a lot simpler. Smartthings treats it like a dimmer out of the box, but adding this device type makes it perfectly seamless.

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.

Basics

You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

1. Your router doesn't work
   
2. Your ISP's connection drops
   
3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
   
4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
   
5. Random outages/problems
   
   Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased
   
    
   
   You should seriously consider a different HUB
   
   

   Dimmers and Wall Switches
   

   
   Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!
   
   Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4
   
   

   Garage Opener
   

   
   Chamberlain is great!
   
   

   Security
   

   
   If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.
   
   

   Audio
   

   
   Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)
   
   

   Front Door Cam/Doorbell
   

   
   Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.
   
   

   Outdoor Light
   

   Just install the smart switch of your choice.
   
   

   Fan's
   

   Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...
   
   

   Under Cabinet Lighting
   

   Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)
   
   

   Outdoor Speakers
   

   The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!
   
   
   
    
   
   PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)
   
    
   
   *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

Is this what you are looking for? It's GE's Z-Wave fan control switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=asc_df_B00PYMGVVQ5057002/

OMG I've thought about the exact same thing! How does it not exist yet?? This is a GE/Jasco device I found earlier, but have't read too much into it - https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

You could get these two devices and be able to control the fan and light independently with variable speed control and dimming capability.

1. Fan Switch:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
   
   
2. Light Control:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRQC7O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Both of them can be controlled via Alexa or through the UI on whatever hub you choose.
   
   Hope this helps!

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

Doesn't GE have one too now?
GE Z-Wave Ceiling Fan Wall Switch (12730) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_powUub098BTZB

Almost! The lutron stuff is a bit confusing. They have their pico/caseta line (which you don't want), and their connected bulb line.

You want this, this, and this. Of course, you'll also need Zigbee bulbs (Osram Lightify, GE Link, etc) and a compatible hub, such as Wink. If you'd like, you can get a second remote and keep it beside your bed.


Hope this helps!

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CHWyybQC0JFEJ
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

Just wifi does not mean it is or would be compatible with Alexa at all.. Do you have a hub such as Smart Things or Wink? If so, you're at least on the right track.. you would need this product, which is very hard to get your hands on. This isn't compatible with Alexa just yet, but should be on the road map.

Aside from that, you can wire up two switches, like GE Zwave Fan Control, Lutron, Leviton Fan Control, ect. for Light and Fan independently. These run to the hubs mentioned above and than can be found via Alexa. Sometimes the hub isn't needed, it really depends on your home setup and which switch you want, and the functions you're after. Either way, these are zwave devices, not wifi.

There are probably other solutions but you can use GE's Z-Wave Smart Fan Control switch via SmartThings. Should work as well with the other Z-Wave hubs.

Install one of these and a dimmer for lights. , Run separate wiring to the fan box for bulbs
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

The get an Emerson DC motor fan and a simple light kit.

Bullet proof and almost completely silent at speed. You'll love it.

I have two GE zwave fan switches using my wink hub and Amazon Echos. Works fine but obviously I'm waiting for wink integration for the home. I imagine it will work fine with a SmartThings hub.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478270095&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+fan+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41OkQxFOfJL&ref=plSrch

Just to double check would these 2 be all I need?

B00JJY0S4G
B00PYMGVVQ

So I guess they're finally catching up?

I retrofitted my ceiling fans by replacing the wall switch with a zwave smart dimmable 3-speed fan switch. It works well with no expensive fan replacement. Only difference is Google just sees it as a dimmer switch so it doesn't understand "low, medium, high", but if you give it a percentage, it sets it to the closest speed.

"set fan to 33%" = low, etc...

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

Get some WiFi enabled bulbs and an amazon echo or maybe something like this.

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Grounded-Appliances-18279/dp/B00R7Q7PT4

This is the one I have. I have it plugged into string lights so I don't have to have my bright ass overhead light on in the evenings when I'm settling down for bed. It's great because the switch is on the wall right next to my headboard.

There is a simple way you can do this outside of Echo. Just get him to put a remote-controlled switch on the power adaptor. This kind of thing.

The cheap approach is to buy a simple RF-controlled switch and put the actual switch itself somewhere you can access (like on the outside of his door). That will allow you to power-off the Echo without entering his room.

The fancy approach is to use a smart switch that you can link to your phone, your own Echo, or whatever. The main advantage of this is that he could also control it. For example, he could use geofencing to automatically power-off his Echo when he is nowhere near the house.


Obviously the most appropriate way to deal with this problem is for your roommate to stop using alarms on the Echo if he can't remember to cancel them when he's not around. But if you want a tech-based 'solution' then these seem like good options.

Here you go.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-18279-Wireless-Switch-Receiver/dp/B00R7Q7PT4

No, as the lamp I would like to use is on the opposite side of the room. Is there anything that I can plug on the “useless plug” that send a signal to the “wanted plug” and it turn the light on?

I thought on this, but it has a switch and I want to use the ones I already have. Instead of the switch I would like to have something plugged to the wall that when I use my switches, could activate the receiver.

Sorry for the explanation, English is not my mother language.

This the switch?

Widely available.

Not a "smart" solution, but I've used one of these remote swithes for a few years to solve a similar issue. It's worked great for me.

They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.

Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.

GE actually makes add-on switches for their Z-Wave smart switches, making them 3-way compatible. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

I've even seen them in the big box stores.

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

Yes, makes sense to do them all at once if you want to educate all of them. Note that putting multiple smart switches in a single junction box can be a PIA. The old boxes barely have enough space for the big smart switches. But it can be done, I have a 7-gang panel that is all smart switches.

As /u/simiwood notes below, 3-way switches take some additional consideration. Traditionally you had to get add-on switches that communicate with the main smart switch to allow 3-way. This adds cost as you have to get a second smart switch. Some new manufacturers have designed their switches to function with the current 'dumb' switch and maintain 3-way functionality. TheZooz switches have this feature. It's cheaper, and I thought it an elegant solution, but now that's I've tried it I have a slight issue with it. All smart switches function like a typical 2-way light switch, that is up = on, down = off. Traditional 3-way and 4-way switches flip-flop depending on which switch is used. So when you use something like the Zooz solution you now have one switch on the circuit that is always up= on, down=off and you have one that flip flops. It's a small annoyance, but it annoys me. YMMV.

This might work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537995311&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+add-on


That's the add-on switch that works with the GE z-wave paddle switches. I don't have personal experience with these, but they are used for 2-way+ switch configurations. The packaging and information seems to read that the remote "add-on" switch mirrors itself to the "paired" switch. I would assume this is a pairing over z-wave, but not entirely sure. These are powered by the mains in the box. Might be worth checking out.

ahh, i see you what you mean. something like this add-on switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0?th=1

Thanks again for the help. I was hoping to setup exactly as it was, but I was thrown by the new switch ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ) which only has connections for a neutral and traveler wire (https://byjasco.com/sites/default/files/product/manuals/12723%20EnFrSp%20QStart%20V2%20102714.pdf)

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479500062&sr=8-1&keywords=wave+compatible+add+on+switch

So just confirming, smartthings would find this as it's own switch that I can setup without needing a traveler?

Also, am I correct in assuming that this add-on switch would not work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480478370&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41uBlu46cUL&ref=plSrch

Not sure what you mean. If you need an on/off switch without dimming there are a couple in the Caseta range, here is one of them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4stHxbK40YK33

There is also a lower power rated one that doesn't require a neutral. Both work with the hub or can be paired with a Pico as expected.

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

I haven’t tried them, but there are supposed to be ceiling fan switches that can be controlled through GH or Alexa. For example, Lutron appears they have one that does:

• https://smile.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-PD-6ANS-WH-Assistant/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536586475&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ceiling+fan+switch+lutron&psc=1
  
  Lutron also has an IFTTT service. So, this switch might work with the IFTTT service.

I have this switch: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/
So far I couldn't get it to work with Wink...

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

Has anyone used one of these for a ceiling fan combo? https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Switch-Multi-Location/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1497447376&sr=8-6&keywords=Pd-6wcl

Be sure to check the compatibility list on the Lutron website. Not all LEDs work with the dimmer and will result in flashing when the lights are off (learned that the hard way). Lutron also makes an on/off switch that seems to work with all LEDs. Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Ale... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_cArszbEFVB0SC . I've installed three of these in three-way configurations and did have a bit of a problem with one of the locations that had a chandelier with a mix of different type bulbs. I called and they sent me a remote to install in the wall. I haven't installed it yet, but the lights do work when controlled by the phone,Alexa, and the Lutron switch, just not at the mechanical switch location that I have to replace.

Sure, here's an Amazon link.

Yeah. The wall touchscreen is a little "too much" for me.

Is this the type of switch you are referring to? How would I "pair it" with various Hue bulbs? Thanks


Lutron Caseta Wireless Switch, Multi-Location, In-Wall, 6 Amp, Works with Amazon Alexa, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eSUxzbQ6M8GXC

> The non-dimmer unit seems to be like $80'ish

$54.95 for the Caseta switch on Amazon

Amazon has the Lutron Caseta on/off switches. For some reason they actually cost more than the dimmers.

ttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_xs_6HwkybV1BNKFQ

Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.

You've probably already found this but Lutron does offer a switch that can handle the power requirements of a fan, but unlike their dimmers it does require neutral wiring. Every switch I've seen that claimed to be appropriate for fans requires it. Might be something an electrician could add for you?

Lutron doesn't have a single switch that can control both lights and fans separately. You'd need two separate switches, the one linked above for the fan and a separate dimmer for the lights.

I don't use z wave so I'm not up to date on the options there.

The Linear/GoControl WA00Z-1 might work for you. Just program it to associate with the Z-Wave bulb. Looks like it's available in a bunch of places.

Amazon

HomeSeer

Jet.com

this one looks quite interesting. I'm making the assumption that after installing this, I could configure one button to open 1 garage, and another to open the 2nd? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=psdc_7459508011_t2_B00GL6B4GG

I use https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS

$40 tho

> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch

I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.

Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it

I don't one myself but you can probably find some smart/connected power meters that works with a Google home or Alexa, etc that stores usage data to your app.

Something like this with energy monitoring runs for 35USD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBXNYCS

depending on how many devices you need to measure simultaneously, either buy a few of these https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Switch-Control-Lights-Appliances/dp/B01DBXNYCS (or something similar, though I know people have good luck with the Wemo's.. I've got a few waiting to be installed myself) or go with an eBay-fancy-UPS that has this feature built-in.

Be sure that your server architecture doesn't already have this information, for example Dell's iDRAC 6 & later (11th gen and later) provide current, average, and peak power usage statistics for the server itself, negating the need to monitor it with an external solution - you can scrape it right from the BMC.

Interesting!

It sound reasonable but many things are not designed go be plugged in the "proper way" in that case.

Many plugs with the grounding pin have it on the "Bottom" because if it were to be plugged in the opposite way it would kind of pull itself out of the socket, if you know what a I mean?

Like long, heavy, and odd shaped plugs.

Also, a Weemo (wifi plug) for example, has the on/off button and status light on the wrong side. As in, if the grounding pin was plugged into the top you cannot see if it's powered on of off!

(The example: https://www.amazon.com/Insight-Monitoring-Enabled-Anywhere-Assistant/dp/B01DBXNYCS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1520200560&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=wemo&psc=1)

Wemo Insight Ftw!

Just playing devil's advocate, but wouldn't that be a pretty boring graph? It should be a flat line during any cooking activity.

>I would even expand on this and chart the power usage of the Anova.

I am not sure the controller on the Anova could directly measure power usage. I guess it could be approximated based on the time the impeller is on (always) and the amount of time the heating element is on.

There are various smart switches out there that could directly measure the power usage. This one is pretty popular, but I have never personally used it.

I have these for my wall switches. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483896100&sr=1-1&keywords=tp+link+smart+light+switch They work great, easy to set up, but no dimmer. I replaced the wemo ones since I didnt have much luck with them working and setting them up was a pita.

I use Kasa switches and love them. Just make sure you have a neutral wire available on your box.

Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link - Needs Neutral Wire, WiFi Light Switch, Works with Alexa & Google (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_IaOpDbAW7H425

So the plus just gets you Zigbee control. I have an Echo Plus, but all my smart home devices are wifi, and not Zigbee (except a few hue lights, but I already have the hub for that).

So I'm controlling:

• 2 smart light switches, 1 smart dimmer (all wemo)
  
  
• ~6 hue bulbs
  
  
• 2 tp link bulbs
  
  
• wemo outlet
  
  All over wifi.
  
  You'd need the echo plus to control:
  This light switch without a hub, but you wouldn't need it for this other switch.
  
  I did some googling, and it looks like no Apple TVs do Zigbee. So the normal echo should be able to do everything it can currently do. The plus just opens the option to directly control Zigbee devices.
  
  edit: as /u/RichardBLine correctly pointed out, Echo Plus supports Zigbee and not Z-wave. I've updated the post and links. Thanks!

Thank you so much for your reply! I'm potentially installing totally new light switches and I thought I read somewhere that the Phillips Hue switches aren't hardwired or something like that. Any idea what the ideal "hard-wired" light switch would be? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512064629&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+light+switch

I don't actually know anything about electric wiring so I'm not 100% sure what hard wired means.

That one doesn't look bad, but there are several reviews on it that state that it has connectivity issues. Another person suggested this one, what do you think?

Just did this recently with my outdoor lights. I installed this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537972541&sr=8-3&keywords=kasa+smart+switch


It is awesome, i can turn on/ff the lights with the switch or use the app. The app works wonderfully, no delays.

I use the TP-Link Smart switch. It can be controlled and is programmable (that is, schedules can be set) through its own app — Kasa. It does NOT need a hub. I control both my Hue and TP-Link devices through Alexa voice commands. So, I don't mind having two ecosystems.

Here's a couple amazon links:

Leviton Wifi switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01MU9SH77

TP-Link Wifi switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU

I’ve recently installed these.

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Requires Neutral Wire, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch for 3-Way Lighting, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS210 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07724HNTX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Incredibly easy to install, work with Echo and don’t require a hub. If you intend to get heavy into home automation, you’ll need a hub eventually.

Is there a reason I couldn't just install a TP Link wireless switch in place of my gas fireplace switch?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481905178&sr=8-1&keywords=TP+link+light+switch

This is what I was thinking of doing.

Edit: added clairification

Wireless Lightbulbs, Wireless outlets, , Wireless Light Switch with alexa, Wifi Coffee Pot


At 1:07 They show an apartment with shades and curtains controlled by it. MF, if you can afford that apartment, you can pony up the $$ to have that thing wired directly into a wireless system already.


> Affordable: Add IoT (Internet of Things) to any device for $19.

Most things it works on can be replaced for a similar price.

>Long battery life: Powered by a replaceable lithium battery with about 600 days of use.

Wired directly, no battery to worry about.

Just to verify, is it this one? Do you happen to know if there's a version with a dimmer?

price history

Yeah that's what I am getting at, however with this with 3 side by side, wouldn't it look really silly and bulky since each switch has it's own frame around it?

Thanks.

I followed this guide:

https://www.hackster.io/saka/alexa-fireplace-on-7dafd3

used this relay:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBGH96I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sa-no-redirect=1

and this switch:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That first amazon may be a referral link back to the hackster poster, i had it bookmarked.

I'm assuming this is the one correct? Do you know if they make a dual light switch or if it would fit in one? I haven't replaced a switch yet... Does it need a gateway?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519682770&sr=1-2&keywords=ge+paddle+switch

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, On/Off Control, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.HWsDb3VAEJTQ

Comes with an almond paddle

I don’t have the Lutron Caseta so I am not sure about the hub question.

As far as the Z wave switches, I think what you described is ugly. Don’t like that as well.

You can consider the [decora style switches like this] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510605291&sr=8-4&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpID=41orYO6Z%252BWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch).

The [Eaton Aspire] (https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-RF9501AW-ASPIRE-Single-Pole-Wireless/dp/B004SCU5N8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510605483&sr=8-3&keywords=eaton+z+wave+switch&dpID=41nBCVqdAgL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) switches sook pretty nice too but it’s only zwave and not zwave plus.

It couldn't hurt. If it goes unused put the switch somewhere else. And considering the $30 GE switches on Amazon right now ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nZpcAbV7DQWYZ ) it's a good time to pick up an extra switch (or fifteen)

The newer version that supports z-wave plus. Just the on/off model, not the dimmer. Model #14291.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QiyeAb380Q4QY

This is $40

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ge+zwave+light+switch&qid=1566325106&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Also what $10 wifi switch are you even talking about?

Z-wave switches will do what you want and are compatible with Smartthings. I have a few GE dimmers but they also make non-dimming switches. You can get them for about $35, sometimes less.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles and Zwave Repeater Range Extender, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_shK0AbC9YFRW8

Can’t speak to how well they control fans or how they work in the same setup as the Lutron Casetta.

I use Ge z-wave plus switches and dimmers with abode today and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

​

You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


​

For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

Replacing the light switch with a smart home switch (e.g. GE Enbrighten ). Even if you don’t own the home, certainly you can “replace” a switch?

Thanks! The switch is a long ways from my hub. However, I have a kwikset deadbolt there and it seems to work just fine. I am hoping it will work.

Is this the switch?

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa / Google Home, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pPg5ybFJ9EEK7

I have several of those set ups in my home. I use ZWave switches and plugs.

I have a SmartThings hub controlling it with the built in Smart Lighting app. If I turn on my switch it will automatically turn on a plug that has a light plugged into it.

I have over cabinet lighting connected to my dining room lights, and a curio cabinet connected to living room lights. It's not instant, usually about a 5 second delay between tuning on the switch and the plug turning on.

A scene controller should do the same thing without controlling a circuit directly, and should be faster. Usually they have a few buttons on them. But they cost more than a standard switch.

Ok, I'm sorry, I don't understand how any of this works but I'm trying to learn!


So these light bulbs would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-Dimmable-Equivalent-Qualified-UL-Listed/dp/B075MVMRCM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539489965&sr=8-6&keywords=dimming+light+bulbs


and these switches:https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=lp_13575748011_1_4?srs=13575748011&ie=UTF8&qid=1539490103&sr=8-4



and I was thinking about getting a lamp in one room, I could use this plug: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1539490403&sr=8-15&keywords=dimmer+outlet


and a wink hub.


And I would be able to dim and lighten a room from my phone (or the switch on the wall for those plugs). This comes out to be ~$300 for the whole set.


The Phillips Hue would be $665 for the same set up.


Do I have this right? I plan to do more research, but just so I am at the same baseline.

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

Anything Hue is still limited to requiring that the Hue bridge be up and running, and you're also limited to 7 dimmer switches per hub which is really easy to run through with three ways.

You're probably better off getting something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1AHC3R/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511631187&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41orYO6Z%2BWL&ref=plSrch and a SmartThings hub. In the absence of the hub it just works like a perfectly normal light switch, but the hub also allows it to be turned on/off remotely, including via Alexa. SmartThings integrates with Hue so you still get a fully integrated experience.

Only catch is no colour changing, but it sounds like a lot of your lights are white only. They also have a dimmer model which when combined with Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs gives you some colour temperature control without getting into Hue bulbs.

I have this lock. never have had a problem with it.

and a bunch of these light switches...also never had a problem

I had a similar set up. I replaced it, unsuccessfully, with a high/low rocker and a standard GE Z-wave plus .

I tried installing it myself and then had an electrician come out and work on it for a few hours too and no luck.

Apparently there's an upfront burst load (sure this is the wrong terminology) on the whole house fan that that switch must handle and it cannot. When you switch it on, it just starts clicking and the house fan is having a spaz. It can't handle enough current the get the fan started.

I haven't been able to find a Zwave switch that can handle that upfront load needed by this house fan.

Shame. It's been a couple years now and I'm still heading upstairs to turn that thing on and off and the rest of the house is completely automated!

Yes. Leviton Dimmer switch

Heh, it's just my work office building. I guess I could try and use a spare ethernet at an unused desk to plug in the hub, but I'd rather just get something on the wifi.

I found this thing that says it can connect to 5 ghz in the user manual. Little expensive but probably my fastest option.

I'm just having some fun. It's something in a friend's office to tell them that I'm heading to lunch. Probably going to be some kind of lamp or laser projector. Just want to be able to turn it on and off from anywhere. Wish list would be something with an app that plays nicely with tasker too.

I just got this dimming plug today for my newborn’s nursery because the lamp is too bright. Works great by app or voice command. They have a in-wall switch too.


Leviton DW3HL-1BW Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N106YN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the wall switch. I’m getting this for the overhead fan light switch:


Lutron Diva C.L Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, with Wallplate, Single-Pole or 3-Way, DVWCL-153PH-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DIB4DbFVQ76DF

Yeah, looks like this is my only option right now...just so big and bulky :P

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01N106YN7/?th=1

Here’s the top result on Amazon

I just searched for WiFi Dimmer Plug. The listings in the search will show if it’s Alexa certified.

Or this

In that case only the Aotec buttons come to mind as a replacement to the smartthings button, I have the nanomote and I very rarely have missed presses, and only because I take it with me.

If it is permanently fixed and in range it shouldn't have issues, other than not looking like a gang switch

I guess the Aeotec wallmote sort of looks like a switch, if you squint a little.

Aeotec WallMote Quad, Z-Wave Plus Wireless Wall Switch, 4 Button, 16 Scene Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l8DPDbCW26G19

Related items to the rescue:

Looks like a switch, only one button, cheaper.
Insteon 2342-242 Mini Remote Switch, On/Off (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5RML94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w9DPDb5GHG660

do they work with their own stuff, or is it home/ smarthings compatible?

these look like they are hot only switches.. I'm more looking for a faux switch basically something that tells the hub. hey turn that light on/off

edit2:
Looking for something like this but a simple switch/dimmer for 1 scene

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW130-WallMote/dp/B01NCEJAOD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506113001&sr=8-1&keywords=wallmote

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536632505&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ge+smart+outlet+outdoor&dpPl=1&dpID=51lM9a2N%2B1L&ref=plSrch

To close the loop here, I did end up buying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dt2.Bb22CPRK7 and it was super easy to setup and seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the advice and debate

I have the one below and used it for holiday lights last year. No issues what so ever.
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3

I also have about 12-15 of the hard wired switches in my house and they all work great.

You would have to be really good at fishing. Probably not worth it. Get a switch with a wireless second switch. Try this guy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4NF3BbYBNPR3X

Here are them same ones on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=Lutron&qid=1549908122&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Lutron&qid=1549908122&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

You need to replace both switches - there is no way to just replace one.

Generally you have 1 "smart" switch and 1 "addon" switch.

Example:

Smart switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wifi+smart+switch+addon&qid=1574278550&sr=8-3

Add on switch
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ge+smart+switch+add+on&qid=1574278685&sprefix=ge+smart+switch+ad&sr=8-3
You then can wire the traveler from one to the other.
Add on switches are cheaper.

Clap to your hearts content!

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JcrwCb35HKNN4

Thanks .. its really expensive lol

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PD-5WS-DV-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Lighting/dp/B00NO7Z80S

But if there are no other options, looks like im going with this. I'm about to buy the Lutron Caseta $99 kit (with the hub) -- but im still making sure its the right purchase and lutron hub can be integrated with ST hub.

You can replace the switch on the right with this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_78CDybP8MXER9

Attic fan automation requires a fair bit of knowledge about the state of the rest of your house. Generally, you'd only want the fan on if it's cooler outside than it is inside, if one or more windows are open, and if the AC system isn't running. Additionally, you want a fan control unit that you can access from your automation platform, [this is a common example] (http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Ceiling-Switch-12730/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=zg_bsnr_6478741011_5) and it should be a drop-in replacement for your existing unit.

SmartThings has a handful of community-created apps to handle attic fans that might be of some use.

Don't recommend a non-Z-wave plus item, there's zero reason why you'd ever want to save a buck or two and gimp your network with a non-plus. Sure, it's fine if you already own it, but if you are getting something new, always go with the Z-wave plus model: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3