(Part 2) Best network i/o port cards according to redditors
We found 2,688 Reddit comments discussing the best network i/o port cards. We ranked the 380 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Kingwin USB 3.0 Dual Port PCI Bracket Cable with Built-In-20-Pin Header, Up to 5 Gbps for Maximum Transfer Speed, Extend Your USB 3.0 Port On Motherboard to Back of Your Computer Case [KW-PCI2USB3]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41443GMNkdL.jpg)
Sure!
This is all in a Fractal Design - Define R6 USB-C case. I replaced all but one fan with Noctua PWM fans so I could fully take advantage of the fan controller that comes with the case and ultimately have a very quiet box.
This was originally going to be just a NAS box using more "server-y" components (ASRack X470D4U mobo, ECC memory) but I ended up not liking the mother board so I just threw my desktop internals in here for the time being.
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7
CPU: Intel i7 8700k
Memory: 64GB DDR4 2667MHz
In the PCI slots I have a Intel Dual Gigabyte NIC (for SR-IOV capabilities), Qnap Quad M.2 Card, refurbished LSI 9211-8i SAS card, 4 port USB 3.0 Controller (so I can hook up my Mac VM to my KVM switch box), and a Radeon RX 560 so I can pass it through to my Mac VM.
Because this is r/datahoarder, here are my drives...
I am using (2) 1TB NVMe drives for my OS drive. I am using md raid for the first two partitions
/bootand/boot/efi. The third partitions are in a btrfs mirror and contain sub volumes for/and/homeI am using another (2) 1TB NVMe drives in a zfs mirror for
zpool-virtwhich has datasets for docker and libvirt so they are on speedy drives.I have (2) 1TB HDD that were my old pool for containers, but I don't use them anymore. Everything has been migrated to
zpool-virtso these will go away as I expand my 10TB vdevs.I have (4) 4TB drives in pair of mirrors setup as
zpool0which I use as my main storage for docker volumes, plex, time machine backups, network storage, etc.Now that I have put in (4) 10TB drives this will become my main pool and I'll migrate things over once I put in a fifth 10TB drive later this month. I haven't decided if my ultimate goal is to have pool of (2) 5-drive raidz1 vdevs, or a single pool of 10-drives in raidz2. My current thinking is single raidz2 and then hope that raidz expansion comes soon enough that I am able to decommission my 4TB drives and replace them with 10TB ones.
I also have a 1TB NVMe that I used to passthrough to my Mac VM but don't really need to anymore now that I have my VM images on SSDs. Since I have one last remaining open NVMe slot I am planning to buy another 1TB NVMe and make them into a mirror and add them to
zpool-virt. But I was also toying with the idea of putting in an Octane drive into the open slot so I could have a fast SLOG. So who really knows.if you want to do shitty robots you'd want more servos. the batch I grabbed were these: 10 servos for $15
worked great for my impatient hand bot
but yea, get a cheaper generic arduino.
I ordered these guys, but they're shipped by swimming donkey from china. Mine should arrive "any day now"
He's making it sound a lot more complicated than it really is.
The PCI-E slot on a laptop is an Mini-PCIE form factor which is normally used for the wireless card in a laptop. He took out his wireless card and put a Mini-PCIe to PCI-E 1x adapter such as this here and hooked it up to the video card. You then need an extra PSU on the side to power the video card which you hook up the molex to the 4 pin included with the adapter. Some PSUs will include these on the accessories cable as they were originally used to power floppy disk drives, the form factor is the same. After you have the PCI-E adapter and the video card hooked up to power, you simply use a PSU Jumper to power on the video card, power on the laptop, install drivers for the video card, and hook it up to a display. Then, you have to use ethernet for internet, but that's about it.
Voila, you now have an external GPU for your laptop. It will only run at 1x PCIE Speed, but it should still perform better than anything you have onboard unless you have one of those crazy laptops with a $400+ card stuffed into it on a custom PCB.
Depends on your use case. If you're just looking to add SATA ports, aren't planning anything crazy, and don't want to shell out extra for something enterprise-grade, they should work fine.
I have a similar one in my NAS, along with a free 2-port card that came bundled with it. They work pretty well, and I haven't had any issues with either.
This is about $3, but it's still cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MGHH6Q/ . I have about 10 of these for various small gadgets.
The atto is about 5 times more expensive for being 3x smaller.
and when 8 isn't enough... get 8 more
A HighPoint 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D.
It works, but I do have to use the
pcie_acs_overridekernel command line option (+ patch) to split the individual controllers into separate IOMMU groups for PCI-e passthrough. Works for me without issue, but ymmv -- in general, overriding PCI-e ACS isn't recommended.I also tried a StarTech 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power but had issues. I can't remember what exactly, but I couldn't get it to work as individual controllers.
This product might help if you don't find a software solution.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TZR3E70/ "Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay"
I have one and it works great for dual-booting while keeping the hard drives completely separate.
Required Hardware includes:
Item | Link | Exact Item I Used | Cost ($ CDN)
---|---|----|----
Raspberry Pi kit | link | Close Enough | $78.95
Arduino Nano | link | Yes | $25.99/5
50W 5v Power Supply | link | No| $26.45
5m WS2812B LED Strip | link | Yes | US$24.89
HDMI Splitter | link | Yes | $28.99
HDMI to RCA | link | Yes | $18.89
UTV007 Framegrabber | link | Yes | $17.99
RCA Male/Male | link | No | $2.59
Power Bar | link | No, but I might buy it | $20.85
Double Sided Tape | link | Yes | $6.45
HDMI x3 | | N/A | $10
Mini/Micro USB Cables | | N/A | $10
Total: ~CDN $260
Or pick up a cheap USB-C expansion card. I just got a USB 3.1 card with a USB-C and USB A port that goes through the PCI-E 4x slot. Cost me $30.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZFM9V/ref=twister_B07421M45S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have used this one before: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY
And it works great! You can hook up to 4 fans to it and to control the speed just turn the knob.
Then you will wanna buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO
So the fan controller has a MOLEX adapter for power. The data to usb has a MOLEX to power cable in the box (I’ve had a few and the vantech one that I listed should have an inline power button).
I’ve tried splicing the cables and although that works this is far far easier and effective. I hope you see this before you buy to many other solutions because I personally think this is the easiest.
Good luck and happy growing :)
Maybe with this card. I do NOT have experience with it myself but /u/RulerOf has, as mentioned here.
Do you have unused USB headers on your motherboard? It's worth taking a look. If so then this or this should help you out.
Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.
I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.
This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.
Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
This is the Fire-Wire PCI-E card I use: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It has given me no issues at all on Windows 8.1 and 10 connected to a 003 console/interface and a Glyph external drive both running Pro-Tools 11 and 12 and with the 003 acting as the system sound card.
Just don't use the drivers on the disk that come with it. Stick with whatever your computer automatically installs.
Firewire is super cheap too, I got mine for $18 through an Amazon seller.
As for firewire being obsolete, my guess is that is coming from the Thunderbird community. The Saffire's will connect to either, so you could always upgrade to a Thunderbird card in a couple of years. BTW - I use a Saffire Pro 40 with PT11 with no issues. If you go firewire, do your research and make sure you get a compatible card. I bought this one and it works great and was cheap.
With regards to 3 monitors, I put my instruments on the 3rd monitor and sometimes lyrics if I'm writing. It comes in quite handy but certainly isn't necessary.
Maybe a straight firewire card would be better.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oculus recommends the $80 Startech with 4 USB controllers as the ultimate offering.
However, the Startech single usb controller card (similar to the inateck) seems to also work, and is only $30-$40. While Oculus doesnt state the lesser Starteck card is compatible, the reviews say otherwise
> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard
That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.
If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.
Ok, it's been a while since I researched this. I can tell you that all the cards work though. If I remember correctly, this card is the best for 4 internal ports. This one if you only have a 1x slot available. And this one if you also want some eSATA ports
I have all these cards in my Hackintosh I'm typing on right now without any drivers. They all support hot swap as well.
Any AsMedia, Marvel, etc. SATA card will do.
This one on Amazon is a PCIe 2x card, should do fine for a low-end setup: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AZ9T41M/ref=twister_B0721DXJHL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you want something better, take a look at LSI cards, but that might be overkill for your needs.
I have this one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Syba-SATA-Port-PCI-E-Controller/dp/B00ESFEI2E/ which looks the same as this version in the US https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-SI-PEX40071-Controller-Profile/dp/B00ESFEI2E/
I just found this new 10 port one though, but sure about compatibility https://www.amazon.com/Ableconn-PEX10-SAT-Port-Express-Adapter/dp/B0177GBY0Y/
I can confirm they are available as I have received a batch of 500 two days ago. I've tested on Eligius and Bitminter without issues. I'm reselling them on eBay and Amazon if anyone is interested:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-HAND-1-pack-Bitmain-AntMiner-U2-USB-Bitcoin-ASIC-Miner-2GH-s-Overclockable-/201048049398?pt=US_USB_Flash_Drives&hash=item2ecf65c6f6
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A1LBZI6C51C6OJ
In case anyone's interested - my rig: http://gvty.co/i/BfKFTQ
Raspberry Pi running it to keep electricity costs down.
I'm waiting on 3 of these 2GH usb's:
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/
> Highpoint 1144D
This one? https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS
Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?
$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!
>Thanks. I'm going to buy an inexpensive OSX compatible USB card
Eeeeek! No! Stop!
There's a pretty common phenomenon where you put a USB controller that works just fine with a bare-metal OS into a VM via passthrough, and it just plain doesn't work.
Save yourself the headache and use the Highpoint RocketU R1144D: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015CQ8DCS
It's been confirmed to work by me and by everyone I've recommended purchase it over the years, here and elsewhere.
You can try a different (cheaper) model, but YMMV. I've never seen a USB controller that takes external power work in passthrough. Ever. And the cheaper Highpoint cards require a direct PSU connection.
you dont need to raplace the motherboard, you could also go for a sata ssd or buy a pci-e card to fit the m.2 ssd
something like this
https://www.amazon.de/Asus-Hyper-M-2-X4-Mainboard/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1510742529&sr=1-1&keywords=asus+m.2+pcie
They do work, although they don't change the fact most consumer motherboards are limited to 4 GPUs (due to the BIOS lacking 4G decoding). Also, some people have had trouble getting these to work in a x16 slot,
so you may want to use a M.2 adapter if your ITX board has a M.2 connector.EDIT: You can use this on the AM1I's mini PCIe slot, just break the mini card to make it half height and use the x1 slot (not the USB port).
Look into this mini-pcie to PCIE-1X adapter.
Some cards (such as intel i340 NICs) require the 12V power to be connected, which can complicate things a little, but others only require 3.3v. One thing to watch out for: some companies have a whitelist for what cards can be installed in the mini-pcie slot, you may need to have the bios modified before you can use one of these. Lenovo in particular loves to do this, as does HP.
Okay, so, I put some more thought into this, and you might be able to get away with it.
What you'd need to do is get a motherboard with a socketed in mPCIe wireless card (of which there aren't many, the only AM4 ones I could find were this Gigabyte one or possibly this ASRock one). Then, remove the wireless card, and replace it with a mPCIe->PCI-E 1x riser (something like this or this). Then use that to connect the Intel WiGig adapter. (mPCIe offers both a 1x PCI-E connection and a USB 2.0 connection, to explain the USB ports on both risers)
Although it would be a lot easier to just get an mATX board.
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I wouldn't bother with "official" Linux support. There are only a few manufacturers of USB3 host controllers and the drivers for all of them are in the modern kernel. Most of the USB card manufacturers (especially the generic China ones) don't list Linux compatibility but the cards usually work just fine.
Before the self-powered cards were available, I had a USB3 card in my Poweredge with a self-made Molex splitter/extension off the DVD drive's power connector.
The selections of self-powered USB 3.0 cards (as opposed to 3.1) is a lot larger.
Will something like this cheap generic card work for your purpose or do you actually need 10Gbps?
Hi there! This is the hub I have. It's Renesas based, doesn't require extra power, and is much cheaper relative to other cards out there, which use the same platform.
It will show up as a PCI-e USB controller, and you passthrough the whole thing at once, like you would a GPU or any other similar device. Doesn't need drivers on Linux or Windows, but does not have any MacOS support, if you need that.
This one worked great for me.
[Update]: Bought this PCI-e card via amazon on Monday:
Syba Low Profile PCI-Express 1394b/1394a (2B1A) Card, TI Chipset, Extra Regular Bracket SD-PEX30009
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Installed tonight, booted into Win7 first. Immediately recognized and installed drivers automagically.
Then booted into Mavericks with external FW800 drive attached, it popped right up on my Mac desktop.
Also, my original external iSight cam (FW400) plugged right in and worked in iMessage perfectly.
Could not be happier with the purchase.
If you have any free pcie slots, you could go with one if these and save yourself the hassle.
There are tons. You can just google "internal usb 3.0 header card" and there are lots of results.
here is one:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-EC01-P-Express-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G
PCIe USB 3.0 header should get you there. I found this from silverstone. But if you're populating a PCIe slot, you might as well get some USB 3.0 ports on the back out of it too. That brings us to this. This doesn't say if it's PCIe 2.0 or 3.0. Since you need one in the first place, I'm going to assume your mobo is only 2.0 anyway. PCIe 2.0 x1 is 500MBps or 4Gbps. USB 3.0 is actually 5Gbps. So technically, you're bottlenecked 20% by PCIe. But if you're just using flash drives, it's no big deal. You won't be using any flash drives that are that fast anyway.
This is what you would want if you want 3.0 speeds:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-EC01-P-Express-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G
I'm in the early days of my build with the Intel S2600CP2J and have yet to load an OS (Mint 18 Cinnamon). I've noticed so far that thermal fan management doesn't seem to be happening after POST, but I am still digging around the BIOS settings. I picked up this USB 3.0 card and haven't checked it's functionality yet.
My biggest issue so far, is figuring out which front panel items are supported. Since the Intel board is very much geared toward server setups, very few common desktop front panel items are supported. I've only been able to get the power / reset switches and the 2.0 USB's working. The HDD and power button lights are not working even though the manual has a signal output for those items. The front headphone and mic ports are not supported by the board but I don't care as I never use those anyway.
I plan on finishing the build this weekend and would like to make a post highlighting my successes / failures.
Bbalkenn is correct... either use an adapter and plug it into USB 2.0, or buy an internal usb 3.0 PCI card.
You can get one with or without USB ports on the back of the card.
The usb expansions card you use needs to have a Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset on it. I'm not seeing anything about that on the product description page.
This expansion card costs more , but does work well. If you get this one make sure to not use the drivers that come with it, but rather generic Windows drivers.
It's the same system I talked the SO into getting last year while bundle prices were low so she'd have a 'turnkey vr' rig.
Protip 1 - This 4 port PCIe 1x card drops right in and helps make up for the lack of fast USB ports on the system - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AT5SVS/
Protip 2 - You have three SATA ports on the motherboard. You can disconnect the CD-ROM, drop in two 3tb (or larger) HDD's to make a decent mirror and zip-tie a SSD on top the drive bay (see photo). There are enough free power leads off the stock PSU to make this happen.
https://imgur.com/a/95hsZ
I installed the SSD first for her, mirrored the OS off the stock 1TB HDD onto the SSD, pulled the 1TB, dropped in two 3TBs and built a mirror so her rig could double as a decent Plex/Steam server.
For the price it's not a bad little rig.
heres another one at half the price, however it appears to only work with windows... ill keep looking though
edit: forgot link, heres another one alsohttp://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Profile-Bracket-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1382827898&sr=1-39&keywords=pcie+to+sata+3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815287028
and another: http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-HyperDuo-Brackets-SI-PEX40057/dp/B00AZ9T264/ref=sr_1_47?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1382828245&sr=1-47&keywords=pcie+to+sata+3
heres my amazon search for the amazon links: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_3?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A3012291011%2Cn%3A284718%2Ck%3Apcie+to+sata+3&page=3&sort=price&keywords=pcie+to+sata+3&ie=UTF8&qid=1382828285
One thing to keep in mind, because that is a PCI-e 2.0 x1 card, it only has 500 MBps of total bandwidth. If you load it up with 4 HDDs, you won't get the full performance capabilities of the drives. If you load up just two SSDs, you'll hit bandwidth limits.
I am running one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T41M
It is PCIe 2.0 x2, so gives 1000MBps of bandwidth. I only run HDDs on it, so have no issues. But nice to know I have a bit of headroom if I later want to go with SSDs.
Depends on how many drives you want to support. If only 4 or less you can get by with a cheapo PCIe SATA card like this one
If you want to go bigger, then you are looking at your original list... You can get them pre-flashed like this one
Yeah, you'll likely have a controller for each. Probably several USB2 controllers. My AMD/Gigabyte board has oodles of USB2, but only 2 usb 3.0 ports.
However, your mobo will likely have headers with additional USB ports that may not be connected. If you have them, pick up a bracket to make the ports available.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Transfer-Motherboard-Computer-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/
Just search for "USB 3 bracket".
You know you can directly use the motherboard's USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 headers, right?
If I'm not wrong, the Asus STRIX H270F has 2x USB 3.0 headers, while the smaller Asus STRIX Z270G only got one which will be used by the computer case's front panel.
I doubt you specifically need a 4th gen or higher CPU, it's just trying to say that you want the speed of a 4th gen or higher CPU, because the average speed of older generations is slower. I would try it with the current CPU and go from there. (if someone knows better and the HD60 needs 4th gen+ instruction sets like AVX2 or FMA3 correct me)
To solve the USB 3.0 issues you could use a USB 3.0 internal add-on card: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Transfer-Motherboard-Computer-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/
Almost certainly not, but if you have a desktop computer and that computer has unused USB headers (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0) on the motherboard, you can buy a bracket that'll connect to those headers and put new USB ports on the back of your computer (USB 2.0 / USB 3.0)
Just found this lovely device I've got marked to snag
I personally use Debian because I've been Linux for over 20 years and it's what I'm used to (plus I use the desktop portion of the server to run OBS), but in your case I would say FreeNAS would be the way to go. It's a lot more straightforward, there's minimal overhead, and there's not a lot you need to worry about doing manually.
As far as PCI express lanes being used up that shouldn't really be an issue if you buy an add-on card later on. An 8 port SATA III card runs on a PCIe x2 slot.
Oh I know this crappy card, had to return it back before I even opened it fully. See that massive capacitor near PCIe connection? Check if yours is still attached and not wobbly, mine had fallen off during delivery. I have noticed that amazon is cluttered with rebranded versions of these cards.
Edit: if you are looking for cheap alternative, this is the one I got in its place back in 2018, still alive and kicking in my unraid box:
Syba SATA III 8 Port PCI-E 2.0... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ESFEI2E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use an I/O Crest 8 Port SATA III in my NAS box.
Pros:
Cons:
IO Crest 8 Port Sata using the Marvell 88SE9705 chipset
Would not recognize all of the drives, further researched pointed to the Windows Driver issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESFEI2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ableconn PEX10-SAT 10 Port SATA
This card is a work horse, I have had no issues with it under Windows 10. Chipset ASMedia ASM1062 + 2x JMicron JMB575
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GBY0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
IO Crest 4-port SATA III PCIe
Chipset Marvell 88SE9215
I am running two of these cards with out issue with Windows 10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wow, that's a ton! This is super useful info, thank you.
Would something like this work as the USB 3 AIC?
Here's a four port one
There's also this HCL meant specifically for Macs, but part of that is that they require no extra power.
They don't recommend using a USB hub. You'd be better off buying an Inatek USB PCI-E expansion card. You can learn why here: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/
Oculus recommends this card: https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-compatible-Version-KT4004/dp/B00I027GPC/
Sure! I’m on mobile, but I can update with links in a bit.
Inateck USB 3.0 PCIe Card - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I027GPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZZRjNez4pYJV7 (works on Sierra on Mac Pro 3,1 despite its description)
Cateck USB 3.0 Hub w/ SD Card Reader - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019E6YVXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UOhCABRZkrNCg
eSATA PCIe card (was already installed when I bought it, but I can find the brand)
Blackmagic Intensity HDMI PCIe Card
AMD Radeon 7970 (flashed)
> USB 3.1 (a $50 card)
Haven't seen any USB 3.1 adapters yet, but bought a USB 3.0 HBA for $30.
> Any 3,1 can be flashed up to 4,1
I don't think that's correct. The 3,1 and 4,1 machines are considerably different beasts. Perhaps you are thinking of 4,1 » 5,1?
[ edit: s/is/that's/ ]
if your time is worth money, just buy another 3.0 pci card. I have the same mobo since 2011 and its worth its weight in gold but the usb 3 ports are nothing but heartache for hackintosh. Spent 25 bucks here and never looked back -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the USB 3.0 card I have. It's inexpensive and works great!
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're looking for a cheap miner just for fun, I would go for the Antminer U2 such as this one : http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418098493&sr=1-1&keywords=antminer+U2 . They can go up to 2.4Gh/s, which is more than 5 times the 336Mh/s than the one you found for only twice the price. This is what I use and it's pretty neat. I'm sure you can find them for a few bucks cheaper if you shop around.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Semlos-Internal-Controller-Sil3114-Chipset/dp/B00L2X6DE6/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1504388169&sr=1-2&keywords=4+port+sata
Sata pci
Are you talking about getting just the SSD for now to install on their existing machines? I'd check to see if their motherboard has SATA connectors to support the hard drive. If not you'll probably need something like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L2X6DE6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419014929&sr=8-2&pi=SL75
Assuming there is no SATA they would probably have a white PCI slot, again, I would double check.
You can even buy a SATA switch to power only the drive(s) you want to use.
You could use something like this to switch power on and off for the drives. Also why can't you just use the clover bootloader to choose which OS to boot into at startup? The software bootloader is completely different from the one you used in the past (made specifically for hackintoshes) so boot files aren't tampered with. I've been using it on my laptop for over 2 years with no issues.
I've done the same setup on my desktop. I bought this Kingwin HDD Power Switch Module 6 Switches for 5.25-Inch Bay (HDD-PS6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZR3E70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tcTKzbQQV096C from Amazon. Inside my desktop I mapped the toggle buttons to my different hardrives. The sata cables remain connected at all times. Your motherboard may give a warning on every boot that a sata device is missing, in my case it doesn't.
I did this mainly so me playing on Linux didn't mess up my personal files in Windows but now a days it's more so that Windows doesn't mess up Ubuntu.
Just Google "Hard Drive power switch". You'll find videos and switchers for sale like this.
No this card is for rift S. This card is not sufficient for CV1.
For CV1 you would want to use this:
High Point 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015CQ8DCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pcFqDbHC7MZ95
The High Point has 4 usb controllers in 1 card, good for cv1,.and does not require power (instead uses pci-e x4 slot). So you could do 3 sensors and the Rift cv1 HMD for instance all off this one card, no power lead needed
i'd use https://panthema.net/2013/disk-filltest/ to test the integrity of the drive and subsystem. you should get progressively slower speeds as the drive fills but not a sudden drop. if it fails to complete the fill something is wrong with either your drive, drive's usb controller, cable, usb 3.0 subsystem or driver/software/configuration...
some usb3 controllers are also pure shit. had a few nec 2 port controllers that were garbage and caused nothing but problems, have since upgraded to a few of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015CQ8DCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and have had zero problems/drops/etc
also if your internal drive is fragmented to hell it will slow the transfer
This is expensive, but is really cool, with animated eyes. Prolly too expensive to put all over your yard tho... Here's their guide. (Adafruit has some nice tutorials...)
You can get cheap enough to do it in bulk (for the rolls all over your yard) by having an arduino clone with a Li-Ion battery and a short LED strip, or two bright individual LEDs. You would program the clones, and set them outside. If you use basic LEDs, you can control brightness (via PWM) and color of the entire strip.
For example, here's 5 arduino clones for $19.
For your purpose, I don't think you need individually addressable LEDs but, if you wanted to get fancy, here's one for $8.
Post some photos of your version when you're done!
Your CPU has 40 PCIe lanes. A PCIe SSD as a scratch drive for ongoing projects is the last best thing you can do to what is already a beast of a machine.
*looks like you can use NVMe m.2 SSDs after all! Looks like after updating the BIOS on your board you can use an adapter.
This one should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-PCI3-0-3PIN-32GBIT-HYPERM-2X4MINICARD/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473966183&sr=8-1&keywords=Asus+Hyper+M.2
I ended up using one of these when I had a similar issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YUCAXS/
Not without this it won't!
So the Vive Wireless requires a PCIe 1x, but my motherboard doesn't have one. It does however have a mini PCIe slot. Anyone think one of the miniPCIe to PCIe adapters would impact functionality of the wireless unit?
My motherboard: ASRock X99E-ITX/AC
Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVPITN8/?coliid=I1K641BVK9YXMM
If your laptop in question has a thunderbolt 3 port, there is a very good chance you could get it to work with an external pci enclosure.
If not your probably screwed.
Some people have also thought about using the Mini PCI-e slot on laptops and convert it to normal PCI-E 2 1X with something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
That is still up in the air if it will work or not. Even if it does work you would still have to do some modding on the laptop as most laptop are not built to have a cable sticking out of them from the mpci slot is built onto the motherboard. Not really a viable solution in my opinion.
Yea, killed my USB port accidentally running 110 volts down it. This was the best solution. USB Card
You can get a card like this one https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517720223&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+3+card&dpID=51WkMwFX7sL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Can convert from sata, m.2 is a pain(you go to pcie, then that card)
If the motherboard has only one internal controller. I suppose for the same price you could just install your own controller.
Nearly any USB 3.0 PCIe card should work fine.
Something like this gives you 4 more rear ports: https://www.amazon.com/FebSmart-Self-Powered-Technology-No-Additional-FS-U4-Pro/dp/B072LS4JH7/
Alternatively, if some of your devices don't need the full 5Gbps of
USB 3.0, you can buy a USB 3.0 hub.
/u/rizon, /u/Karthanon
Sorry for the late update. My server was actually configured with dual 570W PSUs, and I did confirm the P2000 worked in this configuration flawlessly, up until I added a four-port USB 3.0 card to the last PCIe slot I had.
After adding the USB 3.0 the server complained that not enough power was available, and under clocked my CPUs to ~1.6GHz. That's when I upgraded to the 870W PSUs, which haven't given me any issues (other than a bump in my power bill).
Otherwise, I've upgraded this to 96GB of RAM with 2x870W PSUs. As mentioned, I added a USB 3.0 card which pulls all of its power from the PCIe bus. I realized that not having a working battery in my H700 severely reduces its performance, so that's in the mail right now.
I'm doing a lot more work that requires a mid-range graphics card, and the P2000 has been nothing but reliable in this configuration. Highly recommended!
Link to USB 3.0 Card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sure, it's called a PCI express USB 3.0 expansion card. I bought this one and it worked. You'll need to be able to open up your computer and install it in a PCIe (x1-x16) slot.
Wow. Reddit actually comes through for me! I had this issue. I thought I got a bad unit but checked on my Intel based laptop. Issue was gone. Switched back to my Ryzen based machine and <stutter, stutter>. So I took the advice and purchased this unit from Amazon and it worked! It worked like a charm. Thanks for all the folks that provided the advice. Putting the link to this item in the comment. It's great and cheap and bonus: I have more ports (not that I needed them on the ASUS Crosshair Hero VIII. Thanks again to all .
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had same issue but i was using my motherboard onboard USB3 (older)...that didn't work, so bought an external powered USB3...didn't work. Ended up buying this USB PCI card...everything worked perfectly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
( I also did the full uninstall/re-install of video card driver software - and update all windows updates)
Good luck!
Ah. Your best bet would be Quest with Link (upcoming feature that lets you plug Quest into a PC & run it like a Rift).
The lenses Oculus use in Go, Quest & Rift have the biggest tolerance for pupil-offset (ie your eyes not directly lining up with the focal center of the lens) out of all current consumer VR headsets (except, perhaps, PSVR, given your experience). Rift S & Go easily accommodate IPDs of 60-68, and with a good face shape & eye symmetry it's possible to go as low as 59 & as high as 73 (the lowest & highest I've personally spoken to people with who use Rift S) - with the fixed lenses. Quest has those same lenses, but a mechanical lens spacing adjustment of up to 72mm. If those lenses, set 63.5mm apart in a Rift S, can work comfortably & well with people up to around 70mm, the same lenses adjusted to 72mm in a Quest would very likely give you the best optical quality & eye comfort out of all current VR HMDs.
I couldn't comfortably recommend any other headset for you. Link is set to have a beta release in November. Oculus are also releasing their own cable for it, 5 meter thin, flexible fiber optical USB-C to USB-C cable with charging capacity, at $80 but as of yet no release date. Should be "later this year." You'll probably really want to use this cable for Link, as the very reason Oculus made it was that they couldn't find any other off-the-shelf cable that quite fit the bill to work optimally with Link. If you don't have a USB-C port in your PC, one of these should do the trick. Quest is quite notoriously front heavy & can be uncomfortable in longer VR sessions, but for $100 you can purchase a Vive Deluxe Audio Strap which brings a considerable improvement in comfort & audio.
If you have one on your graphics card that should be good. Personally I didn't have any so I got myself this to get ready for it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZFM9V?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image
Yes
The H510i comes with this connector for the USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C front panel port, correct?
To connect that to your motherboard you need a header that looks like this.
Your motherboard doesn't have that header. According to the MSI X570 Gaming Edge Wifi manual (PDF warning) you only have two USB 2.0 headers and two USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers.
USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C headers are actually still very rare on motherboards, so it's kind of annoying that the Hx10i series cases all have one.
To use the front Type-C port on your mobo you'd need one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.TWYDbDHPPC43
This will be your best bet. I have seen cheaper converters, where you can change the gen 2 connection to gen1, but no splitters where you can use both.
There might be 3.1 splitters, then you attach an adapter to the one end of the regular splitter. But at that point you'll be getting pretty close to the price of just getting the pcie card. Also with the pcie card you can actually take advantage of the gen2 speeds, for only about $10 more after getting a bunch of adapters/splitters.
The cord for my front of case USB 3.1/C port is too short to reach the header way at the back of my case on a [pcie board] (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/) .
Should I get a pcie extension and mount the card elsewhere? Or get a USB 3.1 header extension? (does such a thing exist?)
I know the USB C spec limits cable length, so I assume that applies here to?
DACs are digital analog converters. They are basically really fancy sound cards that are good for recording. Low noise floor so you can turn them up really loud before you ever hear any hissing. This is essential for recording any outboard gear. It also will have proper outputs for studio speakers aka reference monitors. I don't record any instruments and work 100% in the box so I use a 2output for my speakers. This is what I use as a DAC to make electronic music.
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Blackjack-Recording-Interface/dp/B003VZG550/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467502404&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=onyx+blackjack
If you end up getting a higher end DAC that has firewire read below.
Firewire will be its own separate card that goes in a PCI-E slot. Its a very common port in Apple computers, its become the defacto standard for high end DACs that have more than 4 in/out
https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Profile-PCI-Express-Chipset-SD-PEX30009/dp/B002S53IG8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This one I believe works right out of the box.
Power Supply:
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Nightjar-Completely-Acoustics-NJ520/dp/B00KHO0IG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467502606&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fanless+power+supply
Fanless, more than enough power for a machine like this. Costs a little more but for an audio PC silence is worth the extra money.
Not sure if you need Thunderbolt or not.
If not; then please tell me and we can make it a lot cheaper!!
I assume that you've got your own AMPs & DACs for your audio equipment and that you only need USB ports for this?
I did include a x1 Thunderbolt card + a 3 firewire port expansion card.
The firewire card got: 2x 1394B fire wire ports; 1x 1394A fire wire port.
I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.
I'll also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
Lastly, I'll give out a rationale for each individual part. I have to post this in a reply to this post, since I went over the 10.000 character limitation reddit provides per post.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $25.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus Z97-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $149.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | G.Skill Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY CL4111 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Toshiba 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $144.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $67.91 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer | $13.98 @ Newegg
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Enermax UCTB12N-R 53.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.99 @ Amazon
Expansion Card| Asus Thunderbolt port| $93.00 @ Amazon
Expansion Card| Syba Low Profile PCI-Express 1394b/1394a (2B1A) Card| $28.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $905.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-10 02:53 EST-0500 |
---
Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!
---
Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great youtube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.
---
Guides
---
Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
Probably doesn't help, but this is reported to work great in Sierra on desktop Hackintoshes
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002S53IG8
I got this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002S53IG8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and it worked out of the box, FW-400 side at least, I don't have any 800 stuff
Thanks for the heads up on the cover. I took it off myself because it wasn't low profile. I'll set this project aside and just buy a new card with the appropriate cover.
So I managed to get this one to show up, but I have trouble getting it to recognize anything I plug in.
From my research, I found that switching to legacy helped alot of people.
Upon trying to install legacy drivers, I get a serious freeze followed by bsod every time.
The product I intend to use recommends TI chipset, so my plan was to buy one that had TI, which would concern me if this one had it and doesn't work.
What are my options here? Would win 10 fix this? How about a newer pci card like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S53IG8/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Regarding the Intel thing, I am running AMD.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009O7YU56/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FC3YJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They don't seem to be that common but I did find a few. Theres also the option to adapt the header connector to 2x usb3 plugs and route that out of the case (and either plug it into the back of the mobo or to an addon usb3 card since the ones with external plugs seem much more common)
*actually, I just found this one: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-EC01-P-Express-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_3
or (although I can't actually find this version for sale right now)
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=302&amp;area=en
or
http://usb.brando.com/2-port-usb-3-0-pci-express-card-with-20-pin-header_p02412c046d015.html (although I've never heard of this site before)
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-EC01-P-Express-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G/ref=pd_cp_pc_0
That should work for you. Just make sure you have a PCIe x1 slot open on your motherboard that you can plug a card in to that isn't in the way of anything else.
Everything but the USB 3.0 ports on the front of your case will work fine, but you can't plug those ports into the motherboard, so they won't work. You could get a PCIe card with USB3 headers if you want, like this. (First thing that came up on Google)
https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-EC01-P-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G
Here are a couple of examples:
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-EC01-P-Internal-Connector/dp/B0079XWO4G
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17Z-0002-00002
Does that case have any space behind the motherboard for cable management? If so, you might want to stash some cables back there, it would make the build look less cluttered.
> I wish I'd spent a bit more so I could use the 3.0 USB ports on the front of my case at the very least.
You could get a USB 3.0 PCIe card with USB 3.0 headers, such as this one.
USB 3.0 PSI adapter
There are plenty, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079XWO4G for one example.
Or this if you have a slot on the mobo.
If you don't really need 3.0 speeds, can just get a 3.0 header to usb 2.0 adapter.
StarTech.com 4-Port PCI Express SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with SATA Power PEXUSB3S4V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-veaAbC514HMN
This is what I’m using. 4 Port PCI Express PCIe SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Controller Card Adapter with UASP - SATA Power - USB 3 PCIe Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009AT5SVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pXaJBbD648G63 . It has a power connection but it isn’t hooked up. I am using it in a white box for a windows vm. My r510 II has 2 internal 2.5” drives. You always use one of those cables to power it if needed.
Thanks, I'll check out the graphs tomorrow. When I tried USB 3.0 on this thing, instead of 30-40MB/s when going from one disk to another in the enclosure like I'm getting with eSATA, it was like, 15-20MB/s on a large file copy. Is my StarTech PEXUSB3S4V shit for this thing or something maybe? It worked fine when these were in their original enclosures.
Just to follow up with this, I did get it working with this USB add-in card. It has a Renesas controller and I think the ThinkServer does too, so pretty sure it will work.
I had to apply an update to ESXi and manually start the xHCI module, as described in this article:
http://www.v-front.de/2014/11/vmware-silently-adds-native-usb-30.html
I bought a few of these from Amazon, there are non-RAID versions also.
RAID
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T264
non-RAID
https://www.amazon.com/CREST-Drive-Controller-Marvell-Chipset/dp/B00AZ9T41M
Either should work; I have some B350 boards (Gigabyte and Asus, no AsRock), but nothing is setup for 3k series yet, they need flashed. I have a 3600, I can test one and let you know if you want.
Also, does it matter what slot your Syba card is in?
> LSI 9211
Are there certain specs to look for? Trying to find out the difference between this card and something like this that is a third of the price.
After some research it looks like it would be better performance overall if the card was PCI-E 2.0 x2 or x4. The one you linked is x1 and will definitely work but all 4 hard drives connected to it will share the same PCI-E x1 lane (assuming they were all in use at the same time). Looks like this card may be better maybe? -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T264/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_99ADzbJY3M7A2 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESFEI2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_EjBDzbPASSG90
My use case scenario for this server is just to install Unraid and storing several TBs of media for plex streaming (plex server located on same network but different machine btw). So, that being said - in your opinion does the speed difference there even matter for the most part? The drives will all be WD RED. I may add an SSD or two for caching down the road but I would connect those straight to the onboard SATAs if I went that route.
Thanks in advance for helping with all this and sorry if I missed something obvious.
You're going to want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-2-port-Controller-SY-PEX40039/dp/B00AZ9T264?th=1
This is a hardware issue though, not really related in any way to Radarr.
Yes, they are. A SATA card simply provides more ports so that more drives can be connected individually. It's possible to set up software RAID, but that can be a pain and is slower. A RAID card actually controls the RAID setup with its own chip. That card you linked would NOT work in a PCI-E slot; it is a slow PCI card which is different.
This card is basically the same as the other Amazon link, but it adds support for RAID 0 and RAID 1. Anything that supports more RAID levels will likely be more expensive. This is a good example.. It supports RAID 0, 1, 5, 10, 50, and JBOD.
also have a Z800 hackintosh (x5675, 48GB ram) and would recommend the following that work OOB in Sierra 10.12.6, no extra kexts needed.
I used to have a sata controller that would do what you're talking about. You'd attach the SSD and the hard drive to the same controller and set it up so that the SSD would cache reads. I think it was called HyperDuo...
I think it was something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T264/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This looks like it would also fit the bill for you: https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/store-mi
I bought this and hooked up mirrored ssds. It's not one if the "recommended" controllers, but those are all expensive and it can't be worse that USB. I'm also not using it for my data, just boot disks. Been running great for a while now on 12.2
I/O Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x2 Non RAID Hard Drive Controller Card Marvell 9235 Chipset https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T41M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_490wDbN3EC1NG
I have a similar question. I am running Windows 10 and am out of ports. I was looking into getting an IO Crest card from Amazon. Would something like the 9211 be recommended over the IO card for me?
IO Crest SI-PEX40062 4 Port SATA III PCIe 2.0 X2 Controller Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T41M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WAM.ybWGT24EH
I currently have 4 6tb red drives and am using Drivepool with the mirror set to X2. I just purchased 2 of the 8tb drives from best buy. ^I should probably move onto one of the other software raid systems with parity drives.
thanks for those answers,
3) i looked around for what hba is apparently Host-Bus Adapter, I found some crazy expensive prices and some not that high, is this good for the job ?
Unraid looked nice and all but I would like to run a free/opensource software, and to my comprehension it isn't. Also I don't mind spending some time getting to know new tool and I'm decently familiar with linux cli.
5) that makes a lot of sense, separate box it will be.
4-port SATA card: https://www.amazon.com/CREST-Drive-Controller-Marvell-Chipset/dp/B00AZ9T41M
Get some good SATA cables as well. One of the ones that came with the controller was bad for me.
IO Crest SI-PEX40062 = Syba SI-PEX40062 which is the higher model
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T41M?th=1
It's not pretty. I am actually pretty ashamed of how they're in there being a server admin for work. - and honestly the drive layout was part of the reasoning why I'm moving to a real server. I got the 9020 for free - and started using it with FreeNAS a test to play with FreeNAS. It was lovely, and I just continued to use it without thinking of upgrading the host.
The 9020 has two bays for internal disks. Two are there.
The 9020 also has room for two optical disks- so in these two bays, I can fit two 3.5 inch drives each. I've separated them a bit with cardboard to reduce any vibration one disk may cause the one next to it. Four drives are there.
Lastly, there's some weird clip thing underneath the optical disk trays that I have no clue what its purpose is. Oddly enough, it's roughly 3.5" so I was able to park the last disk there.
I had run out of SATA ports on the motherboard, so I had to install this bad boy to get those drives connected. It actually works beautifully for my need. Also unfortunately needed one of these to get the final drive some power.
The server is still running great, it's definitely 'hacked' to work, and I don't want to continue to keep my important files here on a risky system.
I''ll shut down my server to take a picture for you of the internals if you're interested!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $196.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AX370-Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard | $111.87 @ OutletPC
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $122.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $92.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card | $184.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.90 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG - WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $949.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $919.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-26 14:53 EDT-0400 |
Here is a slightly different build to consider. One main factor is that while you have 3 HDDs and an optical drive now, you may need to add more storage in the future. Given this, I have chosen both a case that can hold all that storage, as well as a motherboard that has enough SATA ports on it to make sure you can connect them all.
In doing this, the motherboard is definitely more expensive. The alternative would be spending less now, but being required to purchase a SATA expansion card later. If you are fine with adding in an expansion card later, or don't think you will need many more HDDs there are plenty of MOBOs available in the $60-70 range than have 6 SATA ports which would allow for 5 total HDDs w/ an optical drive.
Given the potential limit of available SATA ports, I have also chosen an m.2 SSD. As far as the optical drive goes, you mentioned needing one but didn't know if just for DVD but I picked a Bluray burner drive just in case. This can obviously be changed if needed.
The PSU selection also has 10 SATA power connectors, something you have to watch out for with PSU models is only having 6x SATA connectors and needing to use Molex adapters. The unit is also fully modular and has a 10 year warranty.
Its also possible to save money on GPU and drop down to a GTX 1050 Ti depending on what software you use and how you use it. In some scenarios software like Adobe Premiere will take advantage of a GPU, but the actual GPU isn't as important. But, in other situations the more powerful GPU actually yields faster render times. Linus has a video and Puget has a fairly detailed write up. But, that is just for Adobe Premiere, it could very well be different for different software.
In general, I would recommend doing some research on performance for whatever software you use, or are planning on using. All in all, you are going to want a well balanced system, but sometimes it makes sense to spend more or less on certain aspects if you know specific use-case scenarios will benefit from it or not.
You have the expansion connector near the ATX power for USB 3.0. If you look at pictures of the motherboard, it is a pin connector that’s blue, and says USB 3.0
Then you would just need a USB 3.0 header adapter to add additional ports.
you can buys something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Bracket-Built--20-Pin-KW-PCI2USB3/dp/B00BTYOKXO/
The Asus boards such as the Z170 deluxe that have Asmedia on the rear panel, have headers on the motherboard that are connected to the intel controller. You can just hook up a cheap USB 3.0 bracket.
http://amzn.com/B00BTYOKXO
I'm not seeing a fan header but this shows what they look like. They do make fan controllers that you can buy that can either be manually controlled or software controlled. Something like this will fit in a 3.5 inch drivebay and offers manual control of up to four fans.
No need for 5 controllers. Here, take a look at some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-5-4-Inch-Controller-Cooling-AC-SEN-3-B1/dp/B00KJGYLNM/
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156YBCKG/
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY
Basically all you need is a “PWM Fan Controller Hub”. You connect all the fans to the hub, and the hub (depending on which style/type you get), can either be controlled manually via knobs or interface (usually mounted in a 5.25 bay), or connected to the mobo’s CPU fan header, and can be controlled through specific software. The NZXT hub allows control via software like this.
Buy a couple of splitters or a dedicated fan controller. Some cases have a fan controller built in.
Do take note, your fans must be PWM to use this controller. If you have fans that only have 3 pins, or only molex, you'll need something like...
3 pins:
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Channel-Multi-Fan-Controller-FPX-001/dp/B00DP9WRZY
You likely won't find a controller that goes direct wall to controller, you need a transformer of some sort in there so you don't just blow the thing up, hence why most run off a MOLEX or SATA power connector off a PSU. This is the controller I was planning on using: https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3&th=1, it uses MOLEX connectors. For that you could adapt a spare 4 pin PCI connector I guess?
As for the splitters: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=3+way+fan+splitter+amazon
You can for the CPU fan, but also use some GPU overclocking software to modify its fan. If you want to control more fans, you can either get a manual fan controller(can use regular fans) or get a PWM splitter(will need all PWM fans) to use the motherboards CPU PWM control to control all PWM fans.
http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-3-Way-Splitter-Single-Connection/dp/B004CLFOK4/
http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/
http://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Channel-Multi-Fan-Controller-FPX-001/dp/B00DP9WRZY/
Controlling fan speeds individual is difficult let alone accessible by software unless you've got multiple headers. Closest solutions I've seen are bulky (link below) or using a custom solution like raspberry pi to control speeds by communicating with host computer
https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-FPX-001-Controller-Controls-Independent/dp/B00DP9WRZY/ref=pd_aw_sbs_147_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DP9WRZY&amp;pd_rd_r=bbf8ae20-de87-4cb7-b07f-d6014a9257e8&amp;pd_rd_w=J2vra&amp;pd_rd_wg=fUIHz&amp;pf_rd_p=eb968aa8-26af-4aeb-99f6-3d185cf2f412&amp;pf_rd_r=G03AQ34WVWPMF3E14CZV&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2CKFCB89WY421M2S9380#
The better question is why in the world do you want 6 fans?
But, to answer your question:
fan controller
Oldie but a goodie: this Anandtech thread says exhaust is more important. I'd invest in a fan controller - this one looks like it might be decent.
Is it possible I could use the space for this SATA expansion card instead of a GPU?
A few things to understand, hardware RAID involves using hard drives that are the same size, otherwise you can't do it. You can however connect a bunch of hard drives to an HBA or Host Bus Adapter so they all show up as individual drives. It depends on the OS you are using to do this. Cache on a RAID controller only matters if you are doing hardware RAID. You could start with something like this to keep it simple: Or you could go with an Dell H310 and configure your drives as JBOD (Just Big Old Disk) which means they are all individual drives, either way you won't have any redundancy, something hardware raid offers.
https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-SI-PEX40071-Controller-Profile/dp/B00ESFEI2E/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494048102&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=IO+crest
2 second search on Amazon
4 Port http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450459232&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sata+pcie
8 Port http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Components-SI-PEX40071/dp/B00ESFEI2E/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450459232&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=sata+pcie
Yeah, at least an SSD is worth it, and maybe some other things. You just need to make sure you're getting the right things so you don't spend too much and they fit in the machine. It can handle Adobe CS apps and it's more cost effective than repairing your MBP or getting a new one.
SSD: get a more current blade style SSD with M.2 port at any capacity. This form factor because you could use this for something else a few years down the road. And it's PCIe, so max speed and faster than on SATA. 128 GB is enough for macOS and the apps, or a bigger one you can/want to afford.
Then an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lycom-DT-120-PCIe-Adapter-Support/dp/B00MYCQP38
The adapter piggybacks the SSD and you hook it up to one of the PCIe slots. There are 4 slots numbered from bottom to top, the GPU will be in the bottom one (Slot 1), use Slot 2 for the SSD, it's faster than Slots 3 and 4 at the top.
RAM: I'd say 16 gigs is enough for this machine. For very large Photoshop files 32 gigs might be helpful, but only marginally. Mac Pros are picky when it comes to RAM, here's some info: http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/faq/mac-pro-early-2008-how-to-install-ram-backwards-compatible-with-older-memory.html
https://support.apple.com/HT205043
CPU: one of the CPUs in the Wiki link above. But I wouldn't do it. Could add more performance but you need the know how and tools to flash the Mac Pro firmware, otherwise the machine wouldn't recognize the new CPU.
GPU: another potential minefield: http://forums.macrumors.com/threads/frequently-asked-questions-about-nvidia-pc-non-efi-graphics-cards.1440150/
Requires flashing of the GPU as well so they work and you never know if it's surviving an update to macOS.
But Apple officially sold the ATI Radeon HD 5770 and 5780 as upgrade kits for the Mac Pros. These are officially supported. Funny enough Googling these cards I mostly see hits about the older Mac Pros. Saw this link: http://www.apple.com/shop/question/answers/readonly/will-early-2008-mac-pro-owners-be-able-to-use-the-ati-radeon-hd-5770/QDDDH2T2JF44XHHAD
Now finding a 5770 or 5780 on eBay is definitely worth it, will add a substantial amount of performance.
Or any other card that's officially Mac compatible, like the GeForce GTX 950 or 960 and Nvidia's web drivers (install drivers before adding the card!).
I/O: something to consider, adding USB 3.0 is worth it. This card is officially Mac Pro compatible: https://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC/
Btw, here's a patch to get Sierra onto the machine: http://dosdude1.com/sierrapatch.html
Not too much to tell!
How to make a Fusion drive.
AC Wireless / BT 4.0 Upgrade
USB3 card
That's about it! I grabbed the maximum amount of RAM from decommissioned servers at work, and loaded it up with hard drives.
A USB installer for High Sierra is asking you for a firmware update? Honestly I am not sure what might be wrong there, I would start googling for anything similar. Dumb question: have you plugged the mac pro into ethernet so it can download the update?
Google results:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/10-13-6-installer-wont-let-me-do-firmware-update.2127317/
Its really odd given that you were already running High Sierra. Make sure you aren't using the new file format on the boot drive, that might help.
>If there are no bootscreens then how are we supposed to upgrade the damn thing to Mojave? I thought that we could start the upgrade process with the GT120 and then proceed afterwards with a Metal card.
Yes, thats the rub with Mojave. You'll only get boot screens with a card that is both metal enabled and a mac edition card. Here is the list. Otherwise you can do the update with any other metal enabled GPU but you'll have to do it blind and you'll never have bootscreens again. This is why sticking to High Sierra is a safer option.
Also: This is the USB 3.0 card I have. I had some troubles with it on Windows 10 but manually installed a driver and it seems to be fine now.
My research has gotten me pointed at this:
http://www.amazon.com/Ports-Inateck-PCI-E-Expansion-Version/dp/B00I027GPC
It appears quite affordable, 4 port, no extra power, should work without drivers on mac side and fine under bootcamp... seems like a solid option. Anyone have any opinions on this or any other cards?
Alternatively http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRGCV2G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B00I027GPC&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0G5YNS92XRZZA2KJ0YE3#Ask seems functional for people, but there's less feedback and twice the cost so...
Honestly, this one is easier to follow! As for USB, I'm pretty sure this is the card I'm using right now.. Sonnet also has a few PCIe products specifically designed for the Mac Pro, but they are more expensive.
so here's my self follow up. i tried this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C?keywords=inateck%20usb%20pcie&amp;qid=1450042134&amp;ref_=sr_1_6&amp;sr=8-6
but no workee. since i had free shipping and returns i figured it was worth a shot b/c it's 11 bucks less than the same companies mac-compatible card and from what i could tell used the same controller, etc.
now i'm ordering this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I027GPC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
as it's well reviewed by hackintosh people. if that doesn't work i'll try the high point, but i got burned by one of their RAID cards I bought years ago and I'm still bitter (and a hardhead)
Thats expensive for 2.4 GH/s, thats exactly what im getting on the antminer U2 that I paid under 20 bucks for. I got mine used from amazon. Here is a link amazon I was going to grab a rock miner R-box amazon they go for 70.00 bucks new on amazon and youll get 32-37 GH/s im sure you might be able to find them cheaper, but I was also looking on craigslist and came across some good deals on the older antminer s1 for under 200.00 bucks and it will crank out 200 GH/s. Of course I also found a kcminer neptune, the guy wants 5000.00 for it, and it cranks out a minimum of 3 TH/s. Im just not brave enough nor do I know enough if that is a wise investment. Like you said 200.00 is more palatable, its not going to make or break you.
Mining seems like a great idea, and it's a fun hobby, but it's pretty tricky in effect. Timing is everything, and you have even more uncertainty than just by buying bitcoin and holding.
If you wanted to see what it was about, you could buy a used 2.4 Gh USB miner from Amazon or something. You basically won't make any money aside from a few thousandths of a bitcoin because they're underpowered, but it'll cost you under $30 and you'll get a chance, if you set it up on your own, to start learning about what's going on when you mine. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408408030&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+gh+miner+bitcoin
Also, /r/bitcoinmining is a good place to start on mining info.
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395810383&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=antminer+u2 you're welcome :D
edit: I am not being payed to advertise/market any products nor am I affiliated with BITMAIN or Amazon. I just thought it was too good not to share.
One of these - http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6 will probably produce more bitcoins that all those servers together while using much less power (cpu's running at 100% pull more power than when idling)
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;s=merchant&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397577239&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bitcoin
opinion on these?
I correct myself, *2 GH/s I will be getting two if this is right.
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396769955&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=asic+miner
Ohh, jeez, you can buy the Bitmain Antminer here.
The smaller ones in between the Antminers are these, but for $10 more, you can get like 5 times the Mh/s with the Antminers. The Antminers are a lot more worth it; I just wanted something to fill in my empty spaces.
The cooling fan is this, but I've got a bigger clamp fan blowing on it so the whole rig doesn't burn my house down. Though, I haven't had much problem with heat. The cooling fan does enough to keep them cool, but when I had no cooling fan, it was hot enough to burn my skin and I found that out the hard way. The clamp fan is just there for insurance.
The Pi is gonna need a 4GB SD card, so make sure you've got a reader for that.
And you're correct. This is the least profitable thing you can do, my setup cost me roughly $150 a month and a half ago, and they've made me $2 worth of Bitcoins (.004 Bitcoin) that haven't even been transferred to me because Slush's pool send threshold is .01 Bitcoin. Though, the whole setup barely puts any strain on my electric bill.
It was fun putting it together and making it work, and it's a great conversation starter, but it has yet to prove me any monetary worth at all. Maybe I can buy something cheap on Overstock in a couple months, or I'll get really really lucky and mine a block.
> Not sure if want , might be fun to have one or two run off of my Raspberry PI, but the drivers might be windows only.
Yes, it can be used with a raspberry pi set up. Might grab one just to try it out and use that fancy affiliate link
A simple install mining app would be multiminerapp.com ... it has a user interface and what now. I use this with my Antminer U2 USB based miners.
I started out with the U2 USB miner. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421524190&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=antminer+u2&amp;condition=used
A newer model would be the U3 miner http://www.amazon.com/Bitmain-Antminer-Bitcoin-Miner-Domestic/dp/B00OQSXMA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421524228&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=antminer+u3
You might be able to make your money back over time with the U3 miner if you dont take electricity into account (which im assuming your not when u use the word 'hobby')
http://www.amazon.com/BITMAIN-ANTMINER-U2-Bitcoin-Overclockable/dp/B00ITD5NV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426891597&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=usb+asic
Enjoy!
I recently started with [one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITD5NV6/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). For $25 bucks or so you'll get 2 Ghps.
I'm personally mining using the pool BitMinter. They have their own software too so its super easy.
I followed the link to your NAS build. Instead of a SAS breakout cable, do you think something like this would work just as well? I am doing a very similar build, but with 8tb HDD's.
depends on what you need the drive for.
you can either use a USB drive (if it's just for backups), eSATA (your motherboard may have an open slot for one on the back), or buy a SATA card like this
There are PCI SATA expansion cards. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L2X6DE6/
>Why would you consider software raid for enterprise level applications / software and not hardware raid?
If he could afford hardware raid this crappy little file server would not even exist haha. Of course that would be ideal, just not in the budget. And this isn't an enterprise level arrangement, this is just a small business running one small application using consumer grade equipment.
I am actually planning on using this "Semlos New PCI SATA Internal Ports RAID Controller" for connecting the drives, which is not a RAID controller at all despite the description. It is only SATA II, but I think the drives I got won't even max that out, much less SATA III. It has 2x1.5Gbps channels, so each drive is getting 750Mbps. The drive specs say they are doing 554 MB/s / 512 MB/s sequential. Unless I misunderstand, there is plenty of room there? But, feel free to correct me if I have that wrong, this is all kinda new to me.
>Also, you sure it's the disk IO that's the issue, and not say network since you are using SSD's (Assuming your motherboard has sata 3.0 ports for those SSD's and not sata 2.0)?
Nope, I am pretty sure the CPU is bottlenecking in addition to the NIC. I ordered a new Gigabit NIC, as stated in my post, and that should also help things I believe. The rest of the network is on CAT6 with gigabit router and switching, but also consumer grade. The router is running DD-WRT though.
>Also, Access is horribly slow anyways, not really meant to be an enterprise level database software handling large volume.
Completely agree with you, but once again this is a small database with not very many users. It isn't heavily accessed all the time, which is why I have been trying to figure out why it is so slow. Some forms just take forever to load, and I didn't build it and am not allowed to modify it. If I came up with very clear and specific design modifications that would increase the performance I could definitely get the author of the DB to implement the changes. But due to my unfamiliarity with Access as a whole and this DB in particular, I am unqualified to do so.
This is the exact one I bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00L2X6DE6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 I'm not big on computers so I'm not sure about all this stuff, from what your saying I guess I bought the wrong one?
To be sure the software running from one drive can't read the other drive, encryption is sufficient. To be sure it can't destroy data you'd need to switch it off physically with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Kingwin-Optimized-Controls-Provide-Longevity/dp/B00TZR3E70
For those who stumble upon this thread and need a solution. After a long search I found this. It's a SATA power switch module that installs in the 5.25" bay in your case. The reviews mention that the power voltage drops when turning on new drives with the PC is still on causing a BSOD. So if you're using this to turn on/off backup drives , connect the PC's OS drive to a separate power line and use this module to connect only the backup drives. If you're going to use this to boot one out of several drives then you shouldn't have any problems like that.
It's not unreasonable... although I would first try and see if you can get your current setup working with the new video card... it should be pretty straight forward and if your current build can work with the new hardware it'll make switching back and forth much easier... even if your new vanilla install goes perfectly right away, a clean install can take awhile to get everything back up and running the way you like.
Another suggestion (if you have 5.25" drive bay) is to get a drive switcher this will allow you to physically disconnect power to all your drives... so you just shutdown, turn off the ones on your current system, turn on the new one to tinker, and then boot up again. Your known working system is safe. (I also use it for OS upgrades or if I wanted to boot Windows)
Some people will say put both OS on the same SSD, however if something ever happens to that SSD then you have a completely unbootable system. Due to that, I often recommend a separate disk for each OS.
If you go through old posts you will see that many people who try to do Windows/Linux dual boot have had issues with trying to use Grub as the boot loader and this is why [I usually link people here](
https://www.reddit.com/r/linux4noobs/comments/3msid3/duel_booting_linux_and_windows_separate_drives/) which is the basic setup for individual drives on each OS and using the Windows boot loader.
EDIT: These directions are the same that I use for every dual boot setup I do, and currently running 3 Windows installs (2xWin10, 1xWin7), 1 Ubuntu, and a "shared" data drive. Have done so many setups like this for many people and haven't seen any problems crop up.
In your particular case, if you do not want each drive to see each other then you may want to use a HDD switcher similar to this , unfortunately I couldn't locate one specific to SSD.
If you go with each OS on a separate drive you might want to consider a HDD switch. It won't be absolutely necessary as you can always choose your boot device during initial power up. The benefits of a switch will be that you won't need to have all your drives constantly powered on and each OS will be completely isolated and not try to mount the other OS drives.
Amazon link
I've had bad luck with passing through USB controllers. Someone else here mentioned the HighPoint PCIe card to me a long time ago. It has 4 ports and each has its own controller than can be assigned to a VM. I picked one up on their suggestion and it works flawlessly for me. The model is: http://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS/ref=dp_ob_title_ce
I don't have a Lenovo TS140 though. I'm using a Supermicro X9SRL-F.
USB cards are really hit or miss for VFIO. I've got a vive set up and working on a
https://www.amazon.com/High-Point-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS
But it's obviously not the cheapest card (it does have 4 independent IOMMU groups though).
My recommendation is to go to a used hardware shop and pick up a few used, cheap USB2 cards (pretty sure the Vive was 2.0) and then try and see what luck you have. The card I use for USB audio passthrough I found this way for like $4 (actually on my first try).
EDIT: should also point out mine does not have a SATA power or other extra power source other than the PCIe slot, so it's probably not a power thing.
There are better cards available, but they come with a price.
https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS
Yes it's digital, the arduino chip generates the sound, as well as the envelopes and chorus. Here is the link for the chips I use:
https://www.amazon.ca/XCSOURCE-ATmega328P-Controller-Arduino-TE359/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510099317&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=arduino+nano
Thanks, can you please help me with this one too?
SainSmart MEGA 2560 Board for Arduino UNO Mega Nano DUE Robot R3 Duemilanove by SainSmart http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00761NDCI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_udp_apa_Dqx1xbHAD69V1
What about this?
XCSOURCE 5pcs Mini USB Nano V3.0 ATmega328P 5V 16M Micro Controller Board F Arduino TE359 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Frx1xbH8TB574
I am confused. Are they all doing the same thing? Whats the difference?
would these work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015MGHH6Q/ref=pd_luc_rh_sbs_01_01_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I do have prime so that would be great
I buy these "Arduino Nano" boards. I guess they are "knockoffs"? You have to buy 5 of them, but shipping is free if you have a "Prime" subscription:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MGHH6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Heya,
imo there's not that much difference in between boards once you get to X99 -- unlike "normal" consumer grade boards where the variances are sometimes huge.
So I'd say pick a board which you like / has the features you need, and just go with that. If you go with an i7-5820k you don't have to concern yourself with Turbo Boost 3.0, as this is only used by the new X99 CPU's (Broadwell-E).
Be aware though that the Haswell-E boards by ASUS (X99-A instead of X99-A II) had problems booting with non-xHCI conforming devices attached (I believe due to USB handshaking issues with the USB 3.0/3.1 controller), but don't quote me on that. I have that problem personally (X99-Deluxe) when I try and boot with my PS4 controller attached. If I unplug it before booting, everything is fine.
Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in on that. Haven't read anything on the new versions though.
Other than that, Asus offers expansion cards that go into the PCIe slot, should you need/want them later on. That said, you can also get off brand ones from Amazon.com or what have you.
I don't really see why you shouldn't be able to RAID two M.2's on an i7-5820k. Afaik that's all in all 24 lanes that would be used at any given time (x16 by Graphics card + x8 by two M.2's), leaving you with 4 extra. It's debatable if it makes sense to RAID two or more SSDs, but you should be able to if you want to.
> Heya,
> imo there's not that much difference in between boards once you get to X99 -- unlike "normal" consumer grade boards where the variances are sometimes huge.
> So I'd say pick a board which you like / has the features you need, and just go with that. If you go with an i7-5820k you don't have to concern yourself with Turbo Boost 3.0, as this is only used by the new X99 CPU's (Broadwell-E).
> Be aware though that the Haswell-E boards by ASUS (X99-A instead of X99-A II) had problems booting with non-xHCI conforming devices attached (I believe due to USB handshaking issues with the USB 3.0/3.1 controller), but don't quote me on that. I have that problem personally (X99-Deluxe) when I try and boot with my PS4 controller attached. If I unplug it before booting, everything is fine.
> Maybe someone more knowledgable can chime in on that. Haven't read anything on the new versions though.
> Other than that, Asus offers expansion cards that go into the PCIe slot, should you need/want them later on. That said, you can also get off brand ones from Amazon.com or what have you.
> I don't really see why you shouldn't be able to RAID two M.2's on an i7-5820k. Afaik that's all in all 24 lanes that would be used at any given time (x16 by Graphics card + x8 by two M.2's), leaving you with 4 extra. It's debatable if it makes sense to RAID two or more SSDs, but you should be able to if you want to.
~ /u/apexbang
This and this are the same thing right? I wanted a black PCB.
I'm just going to pop it in and see what happens. If anything I can return it.
I speak only from what I read. I am not an ~editor.
Approximate numbers, yes - or depending on budget & lanes available, much more.
Kudos to you for getting it. Usually I am called mad, before they rush off and buy a 16 lane intel that precludes nvme raid.
IMO if you google vid edit forums, you will find many do the same. It just hasnt sunk in yet for most tho.
Yes, I hear there are many who could use ~unlimited (512TB) gpu memory/memory address space.
What do you expect from 120GB/s $66 nvmeS & pcie2 ?:) - that's bargain basement, but damn good for the money & frugal use of usually scarce lanes.
A significant bump in write speed can be had by using the same model in 240GB ~$110 form.
~Only TR & Epyc are generous with pcie lanes & allow reasonable freedom for larger arrays. It has 64 pcie3 lanes, native bios bootable raid for up to 7 nvme devices for ~25GB/s read. (see db8haur youtube clip of TR w/ 8x 960 pro raid for 28GB/s using the asus card below (take away = on TR, expect ~linear scaling and little overhead - you get ~straight multiples of the individual drive's rated speeds when you stripe them on TR using pcie 3))
12.8GB/s officially for ddr3 1600, but sounds optimistic -
30-40GB/s sounds right for a good modern ddr4 ryzen, & 40-50GB/s for a TR, but again, don't quote me, check for yourself.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM
A sweet spot imo, is to saturate 16 lanes of pcie2 bandwidth for both read and write, which the above lane thrifty pcie2 bargain rig more than saturates in read (even 3 drives would), and approaches (75%) in write.
If your app works as well~ w/ your gpu set as 8 lane pcie3 as 16 lane pcie3, then you have nothing to gain from faster system dram cache over the nvme raid 0 array.
Its fairly logical that this may be the case - the task usually takes longer to process/render than to load the data, so 8GB/s of data from the system should keep the gpu busy.
NB that your drive selection focus is different.
You dont want size, you want speed, especially the weaker write speed, and cheap cos you want multiples to run in parallel.
Storage is a separate issue.
IMO, it doesnt have to be all things to all men. It is dedicated to writing large chunks of data, fast, and should be formatted optimally for this alone.
All the old saws about risk of raid are rot in this case - its a scratch drive little different to volatile dram, the system fully expects the contents to be lost, & ensures no damage is done by a failure/power outage.
Whatever the array size, it will be huge vs Dram.
A major over riding consideration is the parts dont tell the whole story, which is that hbcc working as intended, should intelligently anticipate reads and prefetch into higher level cache, and delay writes to enhance performance.
Video editing sounds to have eminently predictable data flows to me.
above products links etc:
ASRock Ultra Quad M.2 Card
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-M-2-X4-Card-flexibility/dp/B017YUCAXS
https://techadict.com/shop/electronincs/memory/corsair-force-series-mp500-120gb-m-2-nvme-pcie-gen-3-x4-ssd/
get an nvme drive and put it in one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
It'll give you the full speed that the 950 pro (which is what I'm using in my Z97 board at the house) can deliver. The downside to this is that you need another one to fully realize the mindblowing speed that thing can send and receive data at.
Even moving to and from a SATA SSD, the nvme drive won't even break a sweat and easily maxes out transfer speeds of anything it's reading/writing to.
this is my favorite thus far:
https://www.amazon.com/UHD400-3840X2160-Samsung-40-Inch-Display/dp/B01CSC2P0K
they also make free sync and Gsync models for 200 more.
So that is for a 2.5" nvme drive also known as U.2. there are drives out there for it but it wont work for a 960 evo. Buying the hyper card is what you are looking for found here: https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485905489&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=asus+hyper+m.2+x4
That does depend on your motherboard though. Latest chipset i have seen work is the Z97 and newer(x99,Z170, Z270, Etc.) you might have to experiment with which slots work properly to boot. Also, Windows 10/8.1 is recommended as anything older will need some ISO driver slip streaming trickery.
If I buy a PCI-E M.2 expansion card like this one, would I run into any issues being able to use this as a boot drive?
> https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Accessory-32Gbit-flexibility-Retail/dp/B017YUCAXS
Let me know how this works. I may need one in my toolbox as well.
It didn't look like an m.2 exactly (I figured maybe proprietary), but upon further inspection the spec sheet shows it is a half mini PCI-E slot. It is different from m.2, but still a PCI slot all the same. This adapter might just be able to do what you need it to do as, as far as I can tell, the Vive Wireless Adapter only needs a 1x slot. Seems worth a punt.
Edit: I'm no expert on this, I was not previously aware of the half mini PCI-E. I can't quite tell, but it almost looks like it might be a 1x slot all by itself? If it is, then all you'd need is a 1x extension and you might be able to plug the card in directly. Perhaps he could take the wifi card out and see if that's a standard 1x or if it does require the adapter. Uncharted territory here.
> Alienware X51 r1
I mean if you want to get a little "hacky" you can try something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
With some serious effort (including laptop disassembly) you might be able to swap out the wifi card (if it's mini pcie) for a USB 3 card and run thin cables to bring the ports out through the dvd drive slot...
https://www.startech.com/m/Cards-Adapters/USB-3.0/Cards/2-Port-Mini-PCI-Express-USB-3-Adapter-Card-with-Bracket-Kit~MPEXUSB3S22B
^ It isn't cheap and it's more targeted at SFF PCs, but this is the basic idea.
An even slightly more bizarre solution would be to use a regular pcie usb 3 card with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Express-Extension-Adapter-Riser/dp/B01FVPITN8
Thanks for the info! I’ll start that setup right when I get out of work later today. I do only have 1 plot per drive. Those other plots were from computer space. Would you recommend me upgrading my processor?
PCI-E card: Mailiya PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Expansion Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter with Internal 20-Pin Connector - Expand Another Two USB 3.0 Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gmzHAbRE5VHQ2
Drives: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519754477&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+card&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ldGDAbX8PDK13
I got one of those. I don't think I have the power cables/adapters for it anymore tho. Lemme kno if youd be interested for 15 shipped. I cant give timestamps atm as Im out of the country. Can provide those Sunday night.
The power cable isnt necessary for the card to work, but devices will charge very slowly from the ports without the power cable connected.
https://smile.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c_0_5/133-1855454-5086964?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LZWC7TL&pd_rd_r=883a1b1a-10d5-4954-b43b-b32ffb1191f6&pd_rd_w=aX9yZ&pd_rd_wg=flklL&pf_rd_p=d59c4be5-f193-4660-b12b-ea6611e15f85&pf_rd_r=PSB5E365NVBDPPB9VS7K&psc=1&refRID=PSB5E365NVBDPPB9VS7K
Just make sure you use the sata power, or you'll get drops.
Yeah I was looking into those adapters. They seems the best possible route so far. But if there is another way to get those 2 ports properly working at 3.0 speeds. I'd appreciate it.
I'd been searching on Amazon and I've found one that includes a JUSB3 port on the PCI card. But I'm unsure if it would even work if I simply just connect my front USB 3.0 header to it and just plug the PCI card into the PCI slot.
&#x200B;
Here a link to it:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Mailiya-Expansion-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B01LZWC7TL/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=PCI+USB+3.0&qid=1555721436&s=gateway&sr=8-10
This seems rather promising. But still unsure if this can work. If not I'll pick up the JUSB2 to JUSB3 adapter.
Has anyone here used this USB 3.0 card successfully? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZWC7TL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491438078&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+3.0+pci+card&amp;psc=1
I will attempt to install it tonight and run the compatibility tool but I am unfortunately stuck at work for the next few hours and was hoping to get some info. Any replies are greatly appreciated! Can't wait to get lost in the rift :) will be purchasing mine this Friday
It seems to happen while playing video games. I'm not sure what exactly is up. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with a PCI usb hub that I bought. I've tried reseating it too.
This is the PCI card is question. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZWC7TL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You don't need a $100 solution. You mainly need the pcie card for extra USB bandwidth. This will be more than enough for your needs at a reasonable price.
Link
Yep i bought this card after seeing online the inatek did not work
FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It works flawlessly
Which one did you order? I am trying to decide on one but there is one on Amazon that a guy claims it doesn't work with the rift s.
I'm thinking about getting this one...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W3D6Cb1WTE966
This card works great for my Oculus sensors when using passthrough and has for months.
Hub link
If your computer has a pcie slot you try something like this maybe. FebSmart 4 Ports USB 3.0 Super Fast 5Gbps PCI Express(PCIe) Expansion Card for Windows Server, XP,7,Vista,8,8.1,10 PCs-Build in Self-Powered Technology-No Need Additional Power Supply(FS-U4-Pro) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LS4JH7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9lVOCb57A7MD4 Dont have any experience with it. So cant say if it will work or not. Just a idea.
So I bought this PCIE USB expansion card and installed it yesterday. When I first tried to boot my PC afterwards, it would turn on, all LEDs and everything, then my PSU would immediately make a click noise, then it would shut down. So I took the card back out, then tried to boot and it worked as normal. Reinstalled it, and it booted as normal once again like nothing happened. Any idea why it was having trouble booting originally? I'm new to these expansion cards so I wanted to make sure there wasn't something about them I should know about regarding power or if this was just one of those weird random things that happen every so often.
Could be your USB controller, which is something to keep in mind.
Also, fixable with a $30 PCIe USB expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Including-SuperSpeed-Connector/dp/B073NZFM9V/ref=sr_1_3?crid=16X3BX13A07GS&keywords=usb+pcie+card+3.1+gen+2&qid=1574207065&sprefix=USB+PCIe+%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-3
I appreciate the input. I managed to find this Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.1 PCI Express Card Including Type A and Type C Ports USB 3.1 Gen 2 SuperSpeed 10Gbps with 15-Pin SATA Power Connector and Asmedia Chip for Windows 7 /8/8.1/10/Linux Kernel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NZFM9V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uijRDb2ZAQQ0J
Would there be a way to just use a double ended SATA power cable rather than the 4 pin? Also, I already have a card plugged into a SATA port on my Mac, so can I just daisy chain them together so they can plug in the same port?
I just bought this Inateck PCI-E card and this Partylink cable from Amazon. I used the USB-C port and everything worked for Oculus Link. I have an older Asus P8Z68-V and a GTX 1080.
I had the same problem, and had to use a mobo port. I was trying to use this....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZFM9V/
Are you suggesting it doesn't act as a fully fledged USB data port?
I've ordered this one and I think it's too late to cancel, do you think I'll have problems? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NZFM9V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I’m a little late to the party but if you’re still looking for a solution, I found this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
Should work properly I believe.
You can get a PCIe card. I have that case and card and I'm able to use usb-c.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LrQJDbZCDDT3S
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV
You can plug the USB 3.1. Gen 1 from the Case into the USB 3.2 Gen 1 Connector on the motherboard, as long as the pins line up (the missing pin on the motherboard should be a filled space on the connecter)
For the Type C gen 2 connector, you may need this card (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV)
PCIe to the rescue!
Thanks but thats not exactly what I am looking for.
I need an extender cable for this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2MH4KV/?coliid=I1FU5C24ONU82Y&amp;colid=13TE5E6WBULF5&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
On the case front panel is a USB C 3.1 port. The cable going from this port that plugs into the motherboard, well it goes into port that sort of looks like a sata\esata slot on the motherboard. You can see this on this add-on card. Newer motherboards have this slot on them.
My motherboard does not have this slot. So I need the add-on card. The problem is that the existing cable coming from the front panel won't reach the card. I was surprise I can't find an extender cable for this as not all manufactures put everything on the same spot for all motherboards. This is why you usually have all cables come from the the front panel on computer case...well they usually reach all way to the rear of the case.
Fractal did this with headphone, mic, and the USB 2.0 & 3.0 cables. However, with this USB 3.1 C GEN2 cable, it only reaches the front edge of the motherboard. So I need a female to male cable extender for this connector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCFF2vujTv4
This will get you a closer look at what kind of cable extender I need.
Thanks
Like this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Internal-Connector-Type-C/dp/B07R2MH4KV/
I just got one of these today for my T310. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072LS4JH7