PM me your address and I'll buy you 4 of these. You'll get them by Tuesday. No one should be too scared to go to sleep.

Cameras - solve so many problems.

Just have it handy when he comes around, I'd say go for a no-flash / low-light kind of picture, and you can take that to the police.

Yes! I gave up my Ring.com Pro and switched to an RCA HSDB2 doorbell. Been working great as part of my BlueIris set-up. This forum at IPTalk helped a lot with getting things working.

The camera only has 4 small IR lights built into it so distance isnt its friend. I have looked into buying an auxiliary IR light meant to light up 200ft to brighten up my backyard at night. Something like this

Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SagVCbGJST4EB

I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)


- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge


- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair


- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater


- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater


- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can


- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164


- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE


- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/


- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s


- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html


- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi


- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box


- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use the RCA/HIK/ezvis/laview camera as it is the only one so far I have found that has a RTSP stream

https://www.amazon.com/EZVIZ-DB1-Doorbell-Connected-Vertical/dp/B07JNWP5M2/

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6/

https://www.amazon.com/LaView-Doorbell-Two-Way-Weatherproof-Security/dp/B07LFP9C9C/

> What screen are you using?

Not OP but I'm using this fantastic 7 inch screen that accepts regular USB power for $60

Allows me to use a single power bank (with 2 USB ports) to power both the Pi and screen for hours.

If they're on your porch, they're trespassing. Call the police (or ask "new guy" if he'll call the police if he spots them when you aren't home).

Also, get something like this:

Door/Window Alarms

They're cheap and easy to use. My elderly neighbor has one on her front door. She sometimes forgets to switch it off when deliveries arrive, and I can hear it in my apartment with my windows and door shut. It isn't loud enough to wake me up, but it definitely gets my attention when I'm hanging out watching TV. It's about as loud as a smoke alarm.

These stick on window alarms are relatively inexpensive and would probably wake you even with the white noise. Also, since you live alone, I'd suggest locking your bedroom door at night; attempting to break through your second line of defense certainly will wake you.

I shared my XBOX 360 power supply and induction heater on top of a tupperware some weeks ago, people had concerns for safety ;). Sharing my updated version. Cost breakdown:
$11 Induction heater:
https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-5V-12V-Voltage-Induction-Heating/dp/B01C71XKZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518898882&sr=8-2&keywords=induction+heater

$2 Button:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XVJ9NPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$2dll Wooden Box from local craft store

~$5 dll Xbox power supply from Gamestop

$2dll of filament: Base for induction heater is 3d printed, so is the the case for the switch on the power supply and the tube the guides the bottle into the hole.

$0.5 Glass container from craft store

~$1 12v male and female connectors. Not these exact same ones though:
https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1518899060&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+male+female+connectors&psc=1

Well you wouldn't need to use it to launch the game, you could still launch regularly from steam. Also here's a Webcam for $4.38

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015TJNEY/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115

My friend had a kid who could get into anything and out of anything. Childproofing mearly slowed him down a bit. She bought these alarm things for the front door. They didn't stop him, but they let off a super loud alarm, so she knew right away he'd opened an outside door!

You can get cheap door alarms. You set one side up on the door and one on the frame and when the line is broken, it goes off. It has three settings, on, chirp, and off. Chirp makes a sound any time the door opens, and on does the alarm anytime the door opens. I don't remember what they're called but just look up door alarms.

EDIT: Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B008NXFKLK/R1SGS0ZR5GYAP7/ref=mw_dp_cr?cursor=1&qid=1376262848&sort=rd&sr=8-3

Bought the system myself. Works really well, as you can clearly tell by the gif.

I personally love the Arlo system (we got it on Amazon). It's wireless so it's easy to put up anywhere. It records in color, can see in the dark and sends alerts to our phones if movement or sound happens. You can also adjust the brightness and pan around (a little bit) remotely.

EDIT: This is the system we got, we plan to add more cameras later:
https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-NETGEAR-Security-System-Wire-Free/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1511468599&sr=8-24&keywords=arlo+system

Yubikey 4
 

Magpul Field Case
 

Spyderco Bug SS
 


Minimalist Brand Deuce Wallet
 

Ousi Leather Lighter Case
 

Previous EDC

Several issues with that article but the main one is the Amazon links to the two cameras below their lists of features (itself a bit of a mess). First, both of the links are to the same product, the Arlo Pro. Second the link is to the add-on camera, which currently shows a price of $169.99. The add-on camera is useless by itself. The link should be to the Arlo Pro Security System with Siren, which is $227.00 with free shipping. The other link should be to the the Arlo VMS3130 Indoor/Outdoor Night Vision Security System with 1 Wire-Free HD Camera, which is $149.00 with free shipping.

The monitor TOGUARD 7 Inch Small Portable Security Monitor HD 1024x600 TFT LCD Display Screen with AV VGA HDMI Input, Touch Keys,Built-in Speakers, Remote Control for Raspberry Pi PC Security Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5WB26H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q9yQCbQQ0CP45

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this: https://www.amazon.com/TalentCell-Rechargeable-12000mAh-Multi-led-indicator/dp/B00ME3ZH7C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=talentcell+12v&qid=1562712683&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these: https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=barrel+plug&qid=1562712775&s=gateway&sr=8-4


Also definitely check out GBFans.com! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

My opinion and correct me if I am wrong:

- reset your DNS: http://lmgt.com/?q=how+to+reset+dns

- get one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018Y1Q71M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B018Y1Q71M&linkCode=as2&tag=fordads-21&linkId=c33cc0217ef6bbfe8c205957db5282cf

I haven't used it but this should work.

http://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Wireless-Tilt-Sensor/dp/B00HGVJRX2

If you're concerned, I'm going to recommend installing these:

Camera 1 OR

Camera 2

These are better than a security system because:

It deters crime in your area, not just someone breaking in.

It's cheaper long term ($300 one-time vs $30 / month).

It's video, so it can serve multiple purposes.

It has a recording log, can watch packages, check on 'if someone arrived' etc...

I got Camera 1 hooked up to my business, $300 + installation which was another $300 (you can get it done cheaper). That linked the Cameras to my phone, so I can watch my business on my phone, track customers, etc, security, packages, and storms.

And I've used my footage to assist crime in the area, and simply knowing that cars coming in and out of my area are being recorded reduces crime in and of itself. Not to mention I got 30 day recording and can expand from 4 to 8 cameras any time. No additional / monthly fees.

I think this is probably the best you're going to get:
http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Home-Wire-Free-VMS3130-100NAS/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449101483&sr=8-2&keywords=netgear+arlo

I would just use 3M strips to mount it if you can't drill depending on how heavy the camera is.

Aha. I've done this using a current sensor and an Aeon Labs dry contact z-wave module. Here are the details of what I did:

• Passed the common wire for the indoor HVAC blower through a current sensor switch. The switch I used was Functional Devices RIBXGTA (split core, terminals, adjustable sensitivity from 0.75-150A). Here's the link. It is split core, so it was very easy to pass the HVAC blower common through it.
  
• I wired the terminals to the Aeon Labs dry contact sensor using 18 gauge wire. The current Amazon price for this thing is crazy - you can use any z-wave contact sensor that supports external wiring. The sensor pairs as a door open/close sensor to my Wink hub. I also use Home Assistant (critical for my application).
  
• When current passes through the common wire, it is detected as a change in the contact sensor (close becomes open). Based on this change you can trigger a Wink robot or whatever else you want.
  
  My application was I wanted the sound bar on my TV to increase in volume by three when the HVAC blower comes on and decrease in volume when the HVAC blower goes off. Using HASS, I raise the volume on my sound bar (using Harmony) when the HVAC comes on and lower it when it goes off. Works great.

That particular box is a low/high voltage box. The left side is open for low voltage wiring and the right side is for high voltage wiring (hence why it is enclosed. Mr_Norwall is correct... it is probably just a control line for an ignition system in the fireplace 'controller'. The green would be the ground (so it doesn't float) and the red/white would be the line to start the fireplace.


Another solution you might want to check out is an in-wall module or a dry-contact relay. Such examples are:

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-2&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478881790&sr=8-4&keywords=z-wave+dry+contact


Some dry contact modules will still require 120v to be added though. The Aeon Labs, for instance, just runs on a coin cell I think.

edit: adding product links

use two factor on every account you own. ALL. if you have a service that doesn't accept two factor close it.

DONT store two factor tokens on your cell! that is the biggest attack vector most people expose themselves too.

https://www.amazon.com/Yubico-Y-158-YubiKey-4/dp/B018Y1Q71M

Hardware isolation.

>naked pictures of me that he would post online.

just fyi no one cares, tell him to fuck off.

This isn't correct. Header tags denote structure of a document, not structure of a page or content priority. Your h1 tag should provide the context for further content, not context on the larger site. That's what other elements and navigation menus/TOC are for.

Take for example Amazon.com. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018Y1Q71M Which one is the h1 tag? The product title. There are two reasons:

1. Crawlers know what website they're on. But once they're there, they need to figure out the page they're on and the content and context. So they look for the headers. The h1 tells them "What is the main topic of this content?" When you're on that page, what is the main topic: The Yubikey item.
   
   Your h1 declares the heading of the content: The topmost subject. And then it's broken down further. Otherwise you would be redeclaring the subject on every single page, which is unnecessary. If the title of the site is "Dogs", then you don't need to tell Google on every page that this website is about dogs.
   
   dogs.website/breeds
   
   

• Dogs
  
  • Breeds
    
    • Golden Retriever
      
      • Hair
        
      • Teeth
        
    • Rottweiler
      
      • Hair
        
      • Teeth
        
        It would be more like:
        
        Title: Dogs
        
        
• Breeds
  
  • Golden Retriever
    
    • Hair
      
    • Teeth
      
  • Rottweiler
    
    • Hair
      
    • Teeth
      
      

2. Correctly using headings to describe content improves page accessibility. If you're using using the h1 as your site title, then you should switch to Title meta tags and <header> tags instead of headings.
   
   > Headings add structure and meaning to pages by labeling each content part and indicating the relative importance of those parts.
   >
   > Assistive technologies and some browsers provide mechanisms to present a list of headings to the user that allows users to jump to individual headings. Headings also provide visual clues that help to skim the page or find a specific section, this is especially useful for people that are easily distracted.
   >
   > https://www.w3.org/WAI/tutorials/page-structure/headings/
   
   If they land on your web page, chances are they already know where they are. If someone landed on dogs.website/breeds, the first thing they wouldn't want to filter through would be "breeds", not "dogs". They know they're looking at a website about dogs, but they're on a page about breeds.
   
   Edit: To further elaborate, there is no issue with multiple h1 tags, but only for multiple h1 tags per section, which is why you'll see multiple h1's on the page. The latest recommendation has no issue with multiple h1's on page, but does with multiple h1's in a section element. https://www.w3.org/TR/html5/sections.html WCAG advises it for accessibility, because of the way that screen readers will parse a page.
   
   Remember that first and foremost, HTML is a markup language. You're marking up the structure of a document. If you're not using other elements, like sections, article, header, footer, etc., then your headers are "sectioners" of your outline. Using <section> and <article> elements does the breaking apart of content on behalf of the headers. The second level heading is a subheading of h1 in the same way a <section> element is the section level of a top-level <section> because it's nested inside of it.
   
   

I use this with Blue Iris:

Doorbell Video Ring Security Camera by RCA New and Improved - with Mobile Doorbell Ring, 3MP HD Video, Live Stream, No Recording Storage Fees, Night Vision and Motion Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GN355R6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qABXDbSHE5XM2

The app is garbage and mostly unusable (by the time you can open up the app, put in the password, and view, the person is gone) but it works great with Blue Iris.

http://www.amazon.com/Webcam-Camera-Vision-Meeting-compatible/dp/B0015TJNEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1321044855&sr=8-1

Just a cheap lil' guy. Good enough for what I need it for.

To send cock pictures to every female on Reddit.

Your treatment wasn't their idea, so of course they don't like it. They are unable to take credit for it, and it doesn't make them look good.

On a side note, get a cheap alarm, and a deadbolt lock if you don't already have one.

Just wanted to post in here a few things.

1. Someone already mentioned 3M film for your windows. I second that.
   
   
2. Consider these. I have them in my home on windows and doors. They are LOUD. My neighbors can hear them. They're cheap and stupid simple to install. If all they are there for is to take your stuff, this is enough of a deterrent.
   
   
3. For sliding glass doors, consider a thick wooden dowel at the bottom of the track. It's a cheap and is very effective.
   
   
4. Consider this. If you're going all out, you can go a step further and replace the entire outer door frames with steel ones.
   
   
5. Last but not least. If you're worried they're there for more than just your valuables, take stock of your bedroom door. The frame and door can be replaced with a much more secure solid wood/steel if it isn't already.

30 seconds on Amazon comes up with this option

https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Camera-Mount-Camcorders-Cameras/dp/B00CMLX1O2/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1517493305&sr=1-8&keywords=camera+wall+mount+arm

I'm glad they are taking this seriously for you! Terrifying incident and not something I would ever want to experience.

A few things you can do to help you feel better about being home alone. Obviously make sure your doors are locked (thankfully in this case it seems like they were) just to help prevent someone coming in by opening it. There is also something called "door Jam armor" that I was recommended here to prevent someone from kicking in your door. It's not expensive, really easy to install and unobtrusive.

There are little chimes you can get for windows Amazon link that are equally unobtrusive and just make a very loud chirping noise if the window is opened without them being disengaged. These would wake you up similar to a smoke detector but louder.

You can also pick up keychain mace, or just regular mace to carry around and have at home so that if someone physically stronger than you breaks in, or tries to attack you there is a way to respond.

If you are comfortable with it having a gun at home can give you a means of self defense in the case of someone larger breaking in. It's not for everyone, but it is a tool that helps some people feel more comfortable after incidents like this. My mother experienced a very traumatic incident with a neighbors home and could not stand to be at home alone until she had picked up a gun. She's never had to use it but it made her feel much safer being a smaller, single woman.

Ultimately you are unlikely to ever have an incident like this occur again, thankfully! But taking a few steps to make yourself feel more comfortable in your own home, and be prepared just in case something happens is not the worst move.

You can get something like this in the meantime. They tend to carry them at home improvement stores. Place them on your front door and your sliding door, as well as any bedroom windows.

Also with regards to changing the locks—most places state that if you change them yourself it’s allowed, provided you return the new keys upon moving out and immediately give the landlord/office a copy for their master set. Look over your lease and see.

If you’re in a US state with no waiting period and can afford it OR you can borrow one, get a shotgun. You don’t need bullets/shells. Hear me out. The point is not to keep a loaded gun or be prepared to use it; the point is to use the sound of the shotgun slide racking to scare someone off if they happen to make it inside. You can ask the gun shop to show you how to rack it. It’ll make a very loud “ch-chuck” sound that is enough to scare just about any intruder away. Guns hold their value extremely well so once this gets sorted out you can sell it without taking a financial loss.

Alternatively if you have a webcam you can turn it into a security cam with software until your security system arrives. Just point your laptop or webcam at the door and it can be programmed to start recording/snapping pics when it detects motion. I used one when I lived in an old apartment before leaving on vacation. The quality usually isn’t great but you’ll have the images saved on your phone.

I hope you stay safe! Please update us!

A GoControl siren

And a Monoprice motion

Netgear makes some. Arlo Smart Home Security Camera System - 2 HD, 100% Wire-Free, Indoor/Outdoor Cameras with Night Vision (VMS3230) by NETGEAR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OYwzxb1HS9Y9E

I'd invest in something like this. I used to hang my targets from practice on my back door and windows.

Also, these home survellience systems aren't that expensive, and will at least help you identify anyone that you may not have gotten a clear look at.

Last thing I'd add are some motion-sensitive outdoor lights in the front and the back. The dog is your surest bet of course, it's basically the best notification system for an intruder.

r/letnotmeet has an official guide on the sidebar that has good tips as far as safety/physical security goes. one thing that's not on there are what's called "security bars" that you can buy from amazon. they block in doors/windows/sliding doors from being broken in while you're at home, like when you're sleeping.

i'd also consider posting on trollx for advice as well. there's some of us trolls who've gone through some shit and may be able to give good advice.

for restraining order, for one thing, he'll need the exact address of where he needs to stay away from. since he already knows her home address, i would just be careful putting on there specific locations that he doesn't know about, if that makes sense. restraining orders might only be half as helpful if there isn't some way to catch him violating it. i'd recommend some sort of night security camera. i put these on my tech wishlist after ppl recommended them on the recent r/aww post on the cat triggering the night camera:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0145OQTPG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=I32NXUP8ELY3US&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MMRV1M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=IXT7HPA0HMC8D&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CW4BG4K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=I2NHMUTKAQWLNC&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3PDI6G88Q8ITA&coliid=IYEA8OCV4N4GA&psc=1

as for stopping cold turkey or de-escalating, that's up to her. but whatever she chooses, and hell, even now, she NEEDS to be prepared for his possible actions when she does do it, cuz he's gonna get pissed, which might lead to silent insidious revenge or straight out attack.

that means not going anywhere alone, securing her house and car when she's alone, setting up apps that can be immediately triggered quietly to call for help, carrying pepper sprays/defense stuff depending on local laws, etc etc, there's a lot you can do. and making sure her friends/family/coworkers/employer knows -the more eyes keeping a lookout for him the better (show them a picture of him). these fuckers relish on getting the upper hand and she needs to get in control of the situation. (and yes, i know a lot of this stuff from reading that sub)

also, breaking and entering IS a crime, wherever you are. if she catches that on tape she's golden as far as restraining order or even straight up charging him with it. she should start a journal log, writing down exact dates/times/details of any event, small or big. if it ever goes to the police or court, it'll help tremendously. she can also low-key record conversations with him on her phone, just turn the indicator light switch off.

best of luck and safety to you and your friend.

-trollx

I reccomend /u/shumillionaire 's solution first. If those are not satisfactory, you could always burn a hole in your wallet with a Display Calibrator.

The SDC MS-12 (http://www.sdcsecurity.com/Latch-and-Deadbolt-Monitoring-Strikes.htm) will do exactly what you're looking for on the deadbolt monitoring side of things. From there, you'll need to connect it to a Z-wave relay like an Aeotec dry contact relay (Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW097 Dry Contact Sensor, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_akuNBb0AV01XF) for communication with your Z-wave infrastructure.

I've used this mat in the bed, between the topper and matress: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUNX7WY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this zwave sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155HSUUY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another good solution I have used is to put a zwave motion sensor directly over the bed.

Get a yubi key and ditch 2FA :)

Check out the Done Siren. Works on z wave. Has lots of different built in sounds. Great battery life and super small but still can play loud.

Dome Home Automation DMS01 Wireless Z-Wave Battery-Powered Home Security Siren and Chime, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1NLPKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_UGgwO4hlWumnq

The screw threads are the same as standard camera mounts, so I got these from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lYKyzbABKAFSM


I mounted them about 7' up and angled them downwards:
https://imgur.com/gallery/99Ih4

Found the US link: Shappy 3 Pack Security Wall Mount Indoor and Outdoor Mount Bracket Adjustable for Wyze Cam Pan 1080p Pan, Arlo Pro 2, Arlo Pro, Arlo, Arlo Cam and Other Compatible Models (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g1DBCb62VABX5

Black version - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_TrDGzbFBAJMJD

> due to cable management and a less than enthused girlfriend.

Heh, been there.

The rod istelf isn't mountable, it doesn't have screw holes. You could make them yourself I guess, but honestly, you're better off buying some CCTV mounts like this to mount the sensors:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shappy-Security-Outdoor-Adjustable-Compatible/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501668002&sr=8-1&keywords=cctv+mounts

Bright light from the window might interfere with the sensors, but if the windows are covered it will make no difference if the sensor is facing them.

I've looked into the same deal for my SNES Classic and a small portable LCD monitor was the most cost effective option. They make these little 7" LCD monitors w/ HDMI and built-in speakers for security camera type usage that remind me of the portable LCD for the PSone. They usually sell for around $50-60.

So that was just a little project/hobby I was working on.

-I used a small 7 inch screen which I already owned. Only a resolution of 1024 x 600. But I wasn't going to buy a mini monitor with 720p native res just for this. It's this one.

-A multi-angle stand which I had previously bought for my Nintendo Switch. Link

-A cheapie 10000mAh powerbank with dual output charge for 5V, 2A (for the screen) and 5V, 1A (for the PS Classic).

-Velcro adhesive to easily attach and remove the screen, the PS Classic and the powerbank from the stand. The powerbank is attached at the back.

-Short (25cm) HDMI cable.

-Short (15cm) USB male to male cable for powering the monitor.

-Short (20cm) micro USB to USB power cable for the PS Classic. Previously this cable was used for my Chromecast device. But it works fine here.

An OTG adapter to plug into the power port of the PSC. And a 128GB USB drive plugged into the OTG adapter.


The PSC is running the latest AutoBleem build with a custom theme. I've upgraded the custom kernel to take advantage of OTG support. FYI, what "OTG" means here is that you can plug your OTG adapter into the rear of the console and connect your usb drive directly to the OTG adapter, thus freeing up the front controller ports and bypassing the power issues of the console.

Raspberry Pi zero w

Relay

Boards

Power Connector

USB Power

Solder kit

Tower Light

Wire diagram

Code in python not the best but that I got on phone.

!/usr/bin/env python2

import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import json
import base64
import requests
import datetime
import logging
import random
from time import sleep

logging.basicConfig(filename='ci-light.log', filemode='w', format='%(name)s - %(levelname)s - %(message)s')

RED = 17
GREEN = 22
YELLOW = 27
global_state = -2
times = {
"1" : datetime.time(2, 0),
"2" : datetime.time(2, 15),
"5" : datetime.time(2, 30),
"3" : datetime.time(2, 45),
"4" : datetime.time(3, 0),
"5" : datetime.time(3, 15)
}

Pat= “{token}”
bauth = "Basic " + base64.b64encode(':'+pat)

GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
GPIO.setup(RED, GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.setup(GREEN, GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.setup(YELLOW, GPIO.OUT)

def clearRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
def setRed():
GPIO.output(RED, 1)
def clearGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
def setGreen():
GPIO.output(GREEN, 1)
def clearYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)
def setYellow():
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 1)
def clearLights():
GPIO.output(RED, 0)
GPIO.output(GREEN, 0)
GPIO.output(YELLOW, 0)

tests to make sure lights and relay are functioning as appropriate

def start_up():
clearLights()
setRed()
sleep(1)
clearRed()
setYellow()
sleep(1)
clearYellow()
setGreen()
sleep(1)
clearGreen()

Does little click and light dance to be passive aggressive. don't break builds

def put_on_show(times):
factor = 0.2
while (times > 0):
setRed()
sleep(factor)
clearRed()
setYellow()
sleep(factor)
clearYellow()
setGreen()
sleep(factor)
clearGreen()
setYellow()
sleep(factor)
clearYellow()
times -= 1
factor -= 0.015

blinks light

def blink_light(light_pin):
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 1)
sleep(0.1)
GPIO.output(light_pin, 0)
sleep(0.1)

Checks the builds for D or T then determines if broken

will need to be updated to account for unit tests being broken to change to yellow

def check_builds():
buildDefs = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/definitions"
buildsUri = "http://{tfsserver}:8080/tfs/defaultcollection/Development/_apis/build/builds?MaxBuildsPerDefinition=1&deletedFilter=excludeDeleted&queryOrder=finishTimeDescending&resultFilter=failed,succeeded,partiallySucceeded&definitions="
s = requests.Session()
s.headers.update({'Authorization': bauth})
r = s.get(buildDefs)

json1 = json.loads(r.text)
str1 = ''
for x in json1['value']:
if 'D' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
elif 'T' in x['name']:
str1 += str(x['id']) + ','
buildsUri += str1

r2 = s.get(buildsUri)

json2 = json.loads(r2.text)

state = 0

print(r2.status_code)

for x in json2['value']:
if x['result'] != 'succeeded':
return 1

return 0

print('starting up')
start_up()
print('started')

main logic loop

while (1):
sleep(3)
logging.info('Checking builds')
print('Checking builds')

new_state = check_builds()

check builds

if (global_state != new_state):<br />
    global_state = new_state<br />
    print('State changed')<br />
    logging.info('State changed')<br />
    if (new_state == 1):<br />
            print('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Broken state - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(RED)<br />
            setRed()<br />
    elif (new_state == 0):<br />
            print('All clear!')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(GREEN)<br />
            setGreen()<br />
    elif (new_state == -1):<br />
            print('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            logging.error('Unit tests are broken - check your builds')<br />
            put_on_show(12)<br />
            blink_light(YELLOW)<br />
            setYellow()<br />
else:<br />
    logging.info('No change')<br />

Also a random human! Good luck!

For less than $50 I am now able to fill my outdoor graveyard with 8 colorful spot lights.

Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BXB2Y8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (DC Connectors)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2E5IXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (12V Adapter)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PVVL2S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (120 LED's)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DDG7J9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . (100ft 18-Gauge Wire)

I thought about trying to cover a large area with IR light and see what it does to tracking.. see if it would make the head set work in a dim area vs having to have alot of light.. i usually play late at night on my days off (i work graveyard) and having all the lights on can cause quite a bit of light though out the rest of the house where others are sleeping..

something like a pair of thise.. on at each corner or something..

https://www.amazon.com/Univivi-Illuminator-Infrared-Security-Cameras/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519781590&sr=8-6&keywords=ir+flood+lights

This is the new version of that. It appears to still be Hikvision on the backend so it should be ONVIF or at least RTSP streamable locally. There isn’t much known yet because it just showed up. It should fix a lot of the problems with the one linked about though because of the 5ghz Wi-Fi. Here is the IPCamTalk thread on the doorbell where someone has been doing packet captures to try and figure out how to stream from it. It looked like someone had it working in BlueIris.

Side note, I have the RCA rebrand of the Uniden one and it works really well. I have an AP within 5 feet of it, so that pretty much eliminates he Wi-Fi issues. Have it recording to a Hikvision NVR locally and works great.

I used this one before we got a monitor with built in webcam

There is one on amazon for 5$

here

decent reviews for how many they sold vs how much it costs!

My friend growing up had a little brother who was a complete hellion. He was constantly trying to sneak away and do crazy/dangerous stuff (probably for attention or something).

They installed those little magnetic sensors on all the doors. Door opens, sensor trips and loud alarm/beep goes off. Best installed up high where the kid can't reach them. Could be an issue if you live in an apartment though, depending on how tolerant your neighbors are about noise.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NXFKLK

My daughter got out of bed before me (we were sleeping together) when she was three, went outside and next to our busy road. Luckily a woman stopped and brought her to our door. Unfortunately no one was awake so she had to call the police.

I woke up to not knowing where she was. The police didn't mention if she was okay until they questioned me and checked out the house.

It was terrifying.


We put sound bell/alarm type devices ( these ) on all the doors and also locks ( these ) for at night. I also talked to her about it. This worked for us and she eventually never did it again.

I have those door handle ones and my 18 month old pets them off. Once they figure it out, (for him it was about3 weeks) there is not stopping them.

As an ex CPS caseworker, I'm a huge fan of door and window alarms. We had many a family install those that way they were alerted to the door being opened.

http://www.amazon.com/Window-Entry-Alarm-Magnetic-Sensor/dp/B008NXFKLK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418332072&sr=1-1&keywords=door+alarm+for+kids

I have a room where i dont need a tent. Im using this: https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Camera-Mount-Camcorders-Cameras/dp/B00CMLX1O2/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538577100&sr=1-22&keywords=wall+tripod+mount

connection to the pi: Just get a cable for your A/V output (in my case a Mini USB Cable

Then install entangle on the pi to test it. (better usability) or just read the documentation of gphoto2 to check. You might also wanna look up if your cam is supported by it.

cheers.

As /u/deathmonkeyz said, there's a 1/4" tripod mount on the bottom. You can use something like this to mount it to a wall. (That's just the first match I found for such a thing. There's a lot of different styles and prices. Chances are with the low weight of the Oculus sensor, you could get away with something cheaper.)

I use this. u/EposVox uses it as well with his Panasonic G7 and for good reason; this thing can hold a pretty hefty load indefinitely as long as it's solidly mounted to something (in my case, I have it screwed onto the underside of a shelf above and behind my monitor).

Not sure how much this means but I've always installed these things.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G-jkDbCY0Z6FD

If someone open your door, window they will ring. They are pretty loud maybe not enough for your neighbors but could also kinda of give you a bit more peace in your mind. Sorry it happened to you.

maybe this
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Protection-Installation-Apartment-45174/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=window+sensors&qid=1568542160&sr=8-3

WD-40 your door and get a [cheap alarm](GE 45174 Magnetic Indoor Window Alarms, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGPM1SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZF-hzbWE6H6GS) that rings when the door is opened.

Creak gets fixed and you can hear an intruder.

Yup, this works great for me. I use this one. The battery life is great, and it's very reliable.

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-TILT-ZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HGVJRX2

I think (I haven't bought one yet) this is a pretty good sensor. Just uses the "tilt" to tell if the garage door is opened or closed.

All you need is this MIMOLite

The company even provides a guide on how to wire up a garage door opener - ignore there bit about magnetic door sensor. Installing a z-wave tilt sensor is WAY more useful (see below)

Optional: Combine your setup with this tilt sensor on the garage door and you'll be able to tell if the door is open/closed. Combine that with any z-wave hub with scripting/logic (openhab, vera, etc) and you can create all sorts of interesting things - automatic closer after certain time / duration, send warning SMS if door still open, etc

This z-wave one (+ Samsung SmartThings)

Here's another option which might be better:

GoControl Z-Wave Siren & Strobe - WA105DBZ-1, Cert ID: ZC08-14030016
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNYSEKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sLrIxbVDVFN3Y

Z wave Alarm Now if you have neighbors they might end up hating you more than the deer.

Some of the window/door sensors allow you to connect a pair of wires which in this case would allow you to connect alarm wire to the sensor and trigger the z-wave part by pressing the doorbell button connected to the other end of the wire.
I used this one: https://amzn.com/B00HPIYJWU

Once you can send a z-wave command via the doorbell button then you can make it do a number of things. I trigger an MP3 using this z-wave doorbell: https://amzn.com/B0182XG27Q (note that bad reviews are related the the useless wireless button, the actual device is really useful as you can add many other sounds and trigger them with any number of z-wave devices) as well as flash the strobe on a couple of these: https://amzn.com/B00MNYSEKY. Other people have it flash lights, play sounds from their Sonos speakers etc.
This all is assuming you have some sort of HA hub as well.

Arlo wireless security systems have motion sensing on the cameras which can be set up to send alerts to phones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_KilByb6E2Z3J8

Once it notifies us of motion, we've set it up to record for 30secs to 2 minutes to the cloud. You can also watch the camera live as well.

I'd also like to recommend the new "smart" camera systems that are getting very popular. Many of them have the same constant monitoring, cloud backups and they can even notify you on your phone if they detect motion in a certain area.

Many of these have night vision and audio pickup. Some, like the doorbell even have two-way communication so you can talk to someone at your door. you'd get notified on your phone when someone rings the doorbell.

https://www.amazon.com/Nest-Cam-Outdoor-Security-Camera/dp/B01I3I9L8M/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493922214&sr=1-4&keywords=nest+camera

https://www.amazon.com/Ring-88LP000CH000-Video-Doorbell-Pro/dp/B01DM6BDA4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493922243&sr=1-1&keywords=ring+home+doorbell+pro

https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-System-Wire-Free-Cameras/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493922286&sr=1-1&keywords=arlo+camera

http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1453497294&sr=8-7&keywords=wifi+camera+outdoor

I think a combo of a safe and one of these is the best.
http://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448995782&sr=8-3&keywords=arlo

There was a AMA a while back from a former burglar. He said that if he sees a camera he wouldnt hit that house. Or any house on that block for that matter.

Is Q-See a well-known brand in the security system world? I don't know if Amazon ratings mean anything but this one is the same price but is better rated with more reviews.

Okay OP, I quickly went through your images, and circled what stood out to me. You're missing a lot of editing marks.

You may want to look into a Spyder to calibrate your monitor, because it's a big deal if you are missing sore thumbs like this.

Have a second set of eyes check your photos before you send them out, it really helps.

Try either the Ring doorbell products or get a z-wave doorbell like this: Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW056 Doorbell, Small, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182XG27Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2IJdAbP3REJ65

If you have a hub. Can likely set up a rule either in your hub software or using IFTTT.

I am curious to try this now.

There's a system called Vera that works decently well. There's an app, several devices by several manufacturers, etc. It does push notifications for my home's door/window sensors and motion alarms. There seem to be doorbells that interface with vera, which seemingly would do the trick.

On that note, this seems to fit what you're after, you just need to have it connect to a z-wave or other home automation controller like one of Vera's. Hope that helps.

I've got this one: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW056-Doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q/

The "chime" is a z-wave siren with an sd card containing 5 audio files. smart things triggers 1-5, the siren plays the corresponding audio

I suppose that depends on the level of threat you expect to defend against. Personally, (as a casual person with no high-profile need what-so-ever,) I just have mine on my desktop, with a backup on a usb drive. Software like gpg stores it in an encrypted form that requires the password to do anything with the private key portion (eg: signing, decrypting.)

There are also hardware solutions for storing and using your keys: things like the YubiKey or Nitrokey, as well as smart cards allow you to store the keys on physical hardware.

There's also lots of clever offline backup solutions, like storing your key in a QR code, or in a method known as 'paper keys', that allow you to basically print the secret portion and recreate your full key later should you lose it. (Obviously, solutions like this aren't practical for daily use, but they're important and interesting none the less!)

Can also use a YubiKey

I use wall camera mounts

like these

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_TrDGzbFBAJMJD

for my rift sensors you just have to unscrew the stand

edit: it handles turning 360 just fine, the proble there is the cord (both rift and vive)

If your playspace has a hard floor I highly recommend some of the anti fatigue foam floor pieces. They make long sessions easier and make kneeling or going prone way more comfortable. Plus it is quite forgiving should you drop a controller or headset. It can also serve as a physical boundary to your play area that you can feel.

You should get some mounts to put your sensors up high on a wall and pointed down. I can recommend a cheap ball joint camera mount that comes in a 3 pack on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_9aJqMPIoJ9uHM
And these to keep it tidy
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y1RGPP/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_nNyNjkDh1rnju

If your space is more than 5’ x 5’ you might want to get extension cables for your headset. There is a sticky thread on what cable are confirmed to be compatible.

I’d also consider a “leather” face pad that you can wipe clean. I like my VRCover just because it doesn’t absorb sweat.
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

You should think about storage too. You want it handy to minimize setup fiction. A shelf or 3d printing hanging fixture on Thingverse perhaps.

I highly recommend having a fan in the room to keep air moving over you face. It helps you get you VR legs by reducing naseau but also prevents your lenses fogging up. Plus the direction of the breeze can keep you oriented in real space without breaking immersion.

I'm using these:
https://www.amazon.com/Shappy-Security-Outdoor-Adjustable-Compatible/dp/B01N4IOQP6

https://www.amazon.com/TOGUARD-Portable-Security-1024x600-Raspberry/dp/B06W5WB26H I painted it white

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Thin-High-Res-Portable-Security-Surveillance/dp/B06W5WB26H

I assume something like this would work. Also check out this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtU2ca24fUk

and this: https://www.reddit.com/r/miniSNES/comments/76yvff/portable_display/

EDIT: although, a vita w/ retroarch would probably be best.

After getting frustrated with the disconnects when using the ST sensors, I tried the Visonic MCT-340 E Wireless Door Window Temperature Sensor 2.4ghz ZigBee, which still disconnects but less often, so far, than the ST sensors, at half the price.

I use Visonic door/window sensors that also show temp/humidity. Currently $19.99 on Amazon, but I have seen these as low as $15.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDJ3KYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aEyVDb4J26GZT
Integrate this with the Virtual Thermostat Manager SmartApp and Device handler.
https://github.com/eliotstocker/SmartThings-VirtualThermostat-WithDTH
The Virtual Thermostat will get its temp reading from the Visonic sensor and turn off/on any smart plug, works great.

i'm going to follow this guide except i think i'm going to splice on 2.1x5.5mm DC jacks to the light bars and dummy light bulb so i can use DC extension cords and splitter to keep the wiring neat

i linked amazon stuff for convenience sake, this stuff can be bought much cheaper on ebay or aliexpress.

Definitely the plant.
I'ma nest pro and install lots of cameras.
Once thing I always look out for is how close it is to a tree or plants.
Because if it's too closer to a plant all the ir light will reflect off the plant and make it bright.

If you trim the plant half way it should get you a brighter view of your car.

Or... If you have room and power I've had other clients buy a ir light.
Where you can put in in middle area and it will brighten up your front yard by a lot at night.. but is a little eh asthetics wise.
Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-LEDs IR Infrared Light Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J.kyDbS19GW0H

https://i.imgur.com/1kQB7q2.jpg

Tonight I'm evaluating this inexpensive illuminator. To my hobbyist eyes it does a very respectable job. I can see facial features beyond the patio.

Comments, please?

Amazon US product link for those too lazy to search (like me)

I was looking for something similar. My requirements were as follows:

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Powered by doorbell transformer (16-24VAC) not batteries
Small footprint (width <= 2" wide)
Wifi
No cloud dependency
Unobtrusive, doesn't look ridiculous (subjective)
Doesn't cost a fortune ($200 or less)

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I found this one and am very happy with it. From what I've been able to find for info it appears to be an OEM version of a Hikvision NDB313-W and is very similar to the LaView Halo One and the RCA Video Doorbell versions but without the associated branding and reliance on their branded apps. It costs $140 shipped and uses a micro SD card (16GB card included) for local storage. As a bonus and though undocumented, it appears to be ONVIF compliant and I was able to add it to my Amcrest NVR as an ONVIF camera and am recording video 24/7. I've only had it installed for a week or so and installation was simple. It uses the EzViz app, which while a bit clunky is very workable.

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I initially had issues getting my indoor mechanical chime working with it but the issue turned out to be existing transformer was too underpowered (10 volt 5 VA) to pull in the chime's solenoid. I replaced it with a 24V 40VA transformer and all has been fine since. Nelly's Security tech support was very responsive and helpful and my only complaint with the doorbell is that it plays a "ding dong" sound from its' internal speaker when the doorbell button is pressed. Nelly's is looking in to the issue it pretty sure it can be disabled.

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As far as your particular use case goes you obviously won't get the "someone is ringing your door bell" notifications if you're away from home and the doorbell might not have internet access. But it will record motion events on its' internal micro SD card and you should be able to view them using the EzViz app when you're connected to your local network. And if you have an ONVIF compliant NVR you should be able to record the video from the doorbell cam.

RCA has one https://smile.amazon.com/Doorbell-Security-Camera-RCA-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6

Hikvision makes a wireless one that will stream to a regular recorder or/and use a SD card, here is the RCA branded one: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6

+1 to this. I used the RCA version which had the extra faceplates (which allows the camera to be angled to the side). Works great with Surveillance Station. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN355R6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I can make silly on TC and you guys can see how awesomely lazy I am. :P

mischief managed

Im in love...with you!! just kidding don't worry.

I want have a web cam

This is the camera used in the link.

Oh wow, looks like Amazon has one for under $6!
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-Webcam-Camera-Meeting-compatible/dp/B0015TJNEY/

This webcam would be pretty cool.

Prime Time

Check for whatever legal aid services are in your area.


Also look into getting some of these. I've bought sets of them for a few bucks and they are LOUD.
https://www.amazon.com/Window-Entry-Alarm-Magnetic-Sensor/dp/B008NXFKLK

It mounts like this. If you have no top bezel it will cut off your a very small portion. (it is the closer one)

It does have a screw hole for a tripod/mount though so I guess you could use something like this, 3M strips could probably hold it if you can't screw into a wall or anything. here is a customer image from amazon of someone doing something similar

Arkon Camera Wall Mount for CCTV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMLX1O2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What about using this and mounting it to my TV?

https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Camera-Mount-Camcorders-Cameras/dp/B00CMLX1O2

Comcast fucking around update 2.0ish.


First off I made a typo its 15 hours of calls with Comcast.

As for you keep filing FCC complaints I'm going that route tonight. My internet speed was fuckered but is fixed now but I didn't mention that I don't have certain channels that I was paying for on my Tivo. Comcast said 100% Tivo's fault after about 15 hours of fucking around which involved a lot of resetting shit. I Called Tivo and they said nope it's comcast but lets 3 way call to solve this issue. Holy fucking shit a company that knows customer service. Hold for 20+ minutes and 2 minutes into comcast picking up and, boom, literally the problem was solved.

Legally again ianal but contracts are meant to be beneficial to both parties. You are paying for a service that is supposed to, at a bare minimum, notify anyone that an entrance has been opened. You can buy window and door alarms from amazon for about $5 a peice that will do more than your $30ish per month.

unfortunately the US world is set up to protect corporations. Honestly I'd break contract and immediately start the small claims court process to protect your credit.

I have a tilt sensor on the door for status. I used this one but unfortunately, it seems both items went up a bit from when I did it. I paid about 50 bucks total for the project back when I did it 2 or 3 years ago. Amazon shows the same parts at around 80 now.

I bought on of these for my mailbox so I would know when the mail was delivered and when it was picked up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HGVJRX2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I snipped the ball bearing switch off of it and soldered a mercury switch inline where the ball bearing was. You could do the same I'm sure. Just snip the ball switch off and solder the pressure sensor onto it.

I tried the fortrezz first and had trouble getting it to work. I went with the GoControl one (http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Siren-Strobe-ZC08-14030016/dp/B00MNYSEKY) and have had good luck and no issues with it. Plenty loud and it can do siren only, light strobe only, or both.

I saw the comments above about using a potentiometer, I was unaware of such a thing. I just knew that they aren't adjustable in and of itself. Back to the zwave siren, there isn't a way to adjust volume on the one that I'm familiar with, however it can be placed in an area (plugs right into an electrical outlet) that is far enough away to make it less noisy. Maybe in the attic or garage. This is the one that I've used on a GC3: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Siren-Strobe-WA105DBZ-1/dp/B00MNYSEKY
I

I started with a gocontrol zwave starter kit of door/window sensors and this strobe siren -

GoControl Z-Wave Siren and Strobe, WA105DBZ-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MNYSEKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FHi.Ab4WVCGC6

> First of all, there are no wireless security cameras that are also battery powered.

https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Smart-Security-Camera-System/dp/B00P7EVST6

This is about as close as you're going to get. I doubt a product exists that meets all of the requirements plus being "cheap".

A different angle would be use a camera like this inside the house. It has a one microphone, so you can talk, yell, or threaten the intruders. Making it clearly visible might also help discourage them breaking-in in the first place (but who knows).

Or go with both, and have the cheap one placed in plain site to distract them from the other camera.

Found these, what do you guys think? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P7EVST6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sounds like a standard security camera setup to me.

Quick shot on amazon reveals this.

Put up security cameras, I got some of these they work great and the price is right. Once installed, play nice, and let your neighbour act like the asshole, once you gather enough evidence go to the cops. Hopefully you can get a restraining order. At this point if he brings up the knife incident it's your word against his, and his credibility with cops will be in the shitter once you show them video proof of his harassment. The most important thing is to PLAY NICE.

$240


I haven't tried it yet. Seems to have good reviews though. They're probably not the best, but they might be the best bang for buck.

Decent security cameras don't cost thousands of dollars anymore. This mid-range system costs a little of over $200 and the picture is pretty clear if you look at the customer images.

The police seem like they are doing their job just fine, they are interviewing the neighborhood and the kids they did find, you can't just arrest people just on someones word.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PMEG8YQ/ref=pd_gwm_simh_0?pf_rd_p=1c5f02ae-183e-4906-990b-5a293310a66c&pf_rd_s=blackjack-personal-1&pf_rd_t=Gateway&pf_rd_i=mobile&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=8F1SPVR738AK4XJTF8CN

This is what I use, never had a problem. it just works.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PMEG8YQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-VMS3130-Outdoor-Security-Wire-Free/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495811793&sr=8-1&keywords=VMS3130

Arlo Smart Home - 1 HD Camera Security System, 100% Wire-Free, Indoor/Outdoor... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_EEgCwb1KPH69N

I'm looking for an web camera that can do the following:

• uses WIFI
  
• is indoor/outdoor
  
• is A/C powered (but additionally battery powered is okay, too)
  
• has nightvision (IR, etc.)
  
• can record either in frames (every 2 seconds or whatever), or continuously - NOT just motion activated
  
• can store video on the attached network
  
• at least 720P
  
• can be controlled by smartphone
  
  I really like the Arlo, but it can't record continuously, and isn't AC powered, in addition to a few other things it can't do. Anything indoor/outdoor that meets my criteria?

Checkout one of these guys here:https://www.amazon.com/Arlo-Security-System-Wire-Free-Outdoor/dp/B00QH0Q8J4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645458&sr=8-3&keywords=100+wireless+security+camera

It connects to your wifi, sends motion alerts, and contains 7 days of free cloud storage. If you get a dog, just point the camera at your door about 2 1/2 feet up. Then you wont get motion detection on the dog, but you can get an alert when the door opens and even a picture of the persons face when opening your door.

There are color calibration tools like Spyder series. However, this is usually for professionals who need color accuracy and expensive.

I use a Spyder Color Calibrator for my monitors but at this price for monitor, I wouldn't bother.

>This is what most Apple haters don't understand.

We understand perfectly well. We just disagree, for very solid reasons not related to the comfort of the user in operating the machine.

Apple users often call that "hate" and that's what makes their attitude part of the discussion. It's not "hate". It's rationally supported disagreement.

>iPhones and Macs have never been about the hardware.

This is actually untrue in two different ways. The first is that Apple's hardware design from a visual standpoint is truly top-notch and that's one of its actual selling points; very careful thought has been put into the visual look of Apple's consumer products (that awful 2013 garbage-can-Mac Pro aside). The iMac is a computer you want to put on display and not stick it somewhere out of sight when company is present. I plan to buy a used iMac from my school if I have the money when they go out for sale and I definitely intend to give it pride of place in the room. They're just very nice to look at.

Usability is something else entirely and I have... issues... with their input devices, but that's personal opinion and is beside the point. Also beside the point is Apple's decision to make a non-touch display look like it's a touch display, with the resulting massive fingerprint-on-screen mess. I clean 20 of these screens in my lab weekly. Why Apple made that decision I'll never know.

The other way your statement isn't true relates to color reproduction on the screen. This is a very important aspect of the iMac and Macbook that Windows users of Adobe products and other imaging software actually envy, and rightly so. Hardware fragmentation of the PC ecosystem has resulted in many, many, many different display devices with different color capabilities and resolutions being used on the same OS. There's just no way to create a color profile for every single one that will reproduce color accurately; many devices don't properly poll for the information needed and you can only come close in color calibration without spending hundreds of dollars on a color calibration tool (which professionals who use Windows PCs actually do purchase). Apple, on the other hand, has complete control over all of the hardware and software end-to-end, which allows the company to deploy displays that really do have very very accurate color vs. prints and original photos etc., etc., etc. Yes, it still needs calibration, but it isn't the pain in the ass that it is on Windows machines with a generic or unknown monitor being used.

>We pay double the price of an equivalent PC, and it's mainly for the software. Many of us know and accept this.

See, that's the thing. You're really running a customized BSD. That's the OS, and it's what I'm assuming you're talking about (see below for why I make that assumption). Under the hood it's a Unix flavor. Linux is very similar. Linux is free.

So paying more for the OS doesn't really make any sense at all. Almost all major software packages ship for PC and Mac, so once again you really are paying more for equivalent or less.

Whether or not you get the bang for your buck from a Mac really depends on what you know you will not want to do with it. Spending the same amount on a PC enables you to do things you don't yet know you'll want to do.

For the money, PCs are scalable for future use cases requiring the capability you already have; Apple computers are not because those use cases require muscle you didn't pay for..

If you're a gamer you will not buy a Mac for that use. In that sense the "software" advantage lies with the PC; gaming on Mac isn't really a thing because the hardware is underpowered for the price and because many developers just don't release games for Mac.

Most open source software is built for PC, Mac, and linux, so again, if you're not talking about the OS you're not making much sense unless you're in a use case where you absolutely must have a Mac. Adobe Creative Cloud is also on PC (ad that software truly does perform better on beefier hardware you can get with the money you spend on a PC vs a Mac); 3D software is almost exclusively PC; MS Office is much much better on PC than Mac.

It's also not a decision based on "macs don't get viruses" because they can and do; APFS has its own problems and limitations which are beyond the scope of this discussion.

Here's the fun thing: I'm not restricted to Windows on the software side! I actually run Windows, linux, Android (in an emulator for development) and Mac OS 10 (virtual machines for the win!) on the hardware I bought. I can also completely divorce my hardware from the software running on it, slag the thing right down to bare metal if I so choose, and start over with something else.

PC users pay less for beefier hardware and get complete freedom of choice as far as software goes. Everything in a (desktop) PC is user-upgradeable too.

I'm going to presume that when you say you spend more for the software what you're really saying is that you pay more for an OS you're comfortable with. That's fine! It took me some time to get used to MacOS when I started school and some of its conventions still make me scratch my head. I'm a right wiz in Windows, though, because that's what I'm comfortable with.

So here is my wishlist for Camera things I sent my husband:

Think Tank Bag

I actually just got this for our anniversary on Halloween and it's freaking amazing. I love Think Tank everything because a) they're so incredibly thoughtful in their design and b) they're made incredibly well. This bag is replacing the current bag I carry JUST lenses and accessories in on the wedding day. On that note their rollerbag is what I use to carry everything and it's also amazing.

Helios Lens

This is basically a trash russian lens that provides really interesting bokeh and intense, awesome sun flare.

Holdfast

I have one of these already, there's a lot of reviews about camera straps, but as a woman it's been the most comfortable strap I've had. I have the American Bison one, it's very soft and incredibly well made. I get compliments on it at weddings all the time, it looks super professional!

Apple Watch

So nice for checking time, texting, and keeping track of timelines on the day of. I love it.

Mouse

If she needs any computer upgrades that would be a great option too. I need a new mouse because mine is a piece of shit, but monitors, monitor calibration, wacom tablet, etc could be nice too.

All the Microfiber cloths, batteries and SD cards

I buy all these things like candy every season. You can really never have enough of any of them.

As far as her home studio, the first thing I would look at is her chair. Art is nice and everything, but loving her chair and workspace makes such a huge difference. It's hard sitting ALL DAY, my back and neck hurt after a full day. I re-did most of my office and bought a bunch of plants and a new desk and it's made my days much better. Next purchase is a chair.

Hope this helps! I'm sure she'll love whatever you get her :).

There are settings you can adjust by eye but to get the colors looking accurate you need to buy an auto screen calibrator those are around $200. I would recommend the Datacolor Spyder5ELITE – Designed for Professional Photographers (S5EL100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL3L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yeSszbS4W3K02

Also one key thing with calibration factor to key in mind is that calibration only works if the environment the tv/monitor is in, is always the same in terms of light. So if you calibrate it for dark room then it will only display the calibrated colors correctly in while the room is dark.

It was similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UBSL3L6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_LaMKzb2PZWRMC

If this is a garage remote integrated into the car, it's probably HomeLink type.

You can use something like this : https://www.amazon.com/955D-Universal-Remote-Control-Replacement/dp/B000EOFQBK/ / http://support.chamberlain.com/articles/How_To/Chamberlain-Universal-Receiver-Model-955D-Owner-s-Manual-1484145552126

Combined with whatever device can convert contact closure to input that you want, for example :

Z-Wave : https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY

Insteon : https://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2843-222-wireless-open-close-sensor.html (can wire things into it) or https://www.smarthome.com/i-o-linc-insteon-2450-low-voltage-contact-closure-interface-1-in-1-out.html

And if you're using X-10, HomeLink should be able to learn an X-10 code to transmit directly.

What about something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

maybe the aeon dry contact sensor?
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW097-Contact/dp/B0155HSUUY

^ This - just setup an aeotec zwave dry contact sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155HSUUY ) connected to a magnetic reed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08 ). Had to drill a small hole for wiring in the bottom of my metal mailbox and mounted the sensor outside the box (for reception) - put the sensor directly underneath the box and it seems to be well hidden and protected from the elements with excellent long distance range.

The setup has been a game changer for me - i get an immediate smartthings alert the second the box is opened. I startled my neighbor the other day when he put mis-delivered mail in my box and i was outside 10 seconds later to greet him.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW056-z-wave-doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q

This doorbell let you have multiple audio files on it and you can set up home automation to trigger the different ones . You basically send the audio file number to parameter six.

I own the Aeotec doorbell which is powered by an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW056-Doorbell/dp/B0182XG27Q

You can configure the sounds that are played by plugging in a USB cable to the back of the device and uploading your own MP3s. It's not as loud as an alarm, but for your situation that may be acceptable.

I believe you can can come figure the Aeon Labs doorbell to do this with a custom app.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182XG27Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WvIryb5ASQYAT

Theres the Fibaro door sensor which accepts a wire input.
http://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-857934005119-Modern-Window-Miniature/dp/B00P2QAR8C

Aeotech also makes a zwave doorbell. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0182XG27Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1XO9WGZO0A93O

I have a single First Alert and will replace my second non-smart detector with a second First Alert when I get a chance (i.e. when they go on sale again). The one that I have is connected to my SmartThings hub and the Smart Home Monitor app is configured to turn on all the lights and unlock the doors in the event of an alarm. With all of that happening, I don't really see the point in interconnects unless the fire/CO somehow knocks out my power & internet first. But my home is small enough that one detector going off is going to be heard throughout the house no matter what. If it wasn't, I would probably just add a siren (for example - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M1NLPKZ) or two and have automation sound them whenever an alarm is triggered.

In short, I'm cheap.

Here's one example that has siren+chime capability depending on your hub: https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Wireless-Adjustable-Selectable-DMS01/dp/B01M1NLPKZ

I haven't used it, just found it by searching

> Dome DMS01 Siren and Chime

https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Automation-DMS01-Wireless-Battery-Powered/dp/B01M1NLPKZ

Note that you'll a custom device handler. I'm happy with it, as it does both chimes and alarm sounds.

I use the Dome siren, which Wink recognizes and lets you alter volume, ring pattern, etc:

https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Automation-DMS01-Wireless-Battery-Powered/dp/B01M1NLPKZ

I use a Dome Siren (https://www.amazon.com/Dome-Home-Automation-DMS01-Battery-Powered/dp/B01M1NLPKZ) and a motion sensor on my enclosed porch. When someone walks up to the porch, the overhead lights come on and it sends a pleasant chime sound to the Dome speaker in the house. We are usually aware before they ring the doorbell.

I bought these but they are cheaply built, plastic mounts with really bad screws but it did the job and as long as I leave them alone now they will last.

Also I bought from Amazon UK
Shappy 3 Pack Security Wall Mount Indoor and Outdoor Mount Bracket Adjustable for Wyze Cam Pan 1080p Pan, Arlo Pro 2, Arlo Pro, Arlo, Arlo Cam and Other Compatible Models (Black) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N4IOQP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sSDBCbV771MDH

I got this at $8 for a set of 3. Works fine, nothing special.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4IOQP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5WB26H

Another solution:
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Thin-High-Res-Portable-Security-Surveillance/dp/B06W5WB26H/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519680868&sr=1-3&keywords=7+inch+display

7 inch wide x 4.6 inch long
0.3 frame (0.8 inch real depth)

The good thing about the above one is that button are on the front and it seems they solve the problem of the cables by adding more depth and making the whole case larger.
The major problem is that is LED and not IPS.

Sure thing, glad to help.

Did a little more searching. So far, this is the screen I would use if I was trying to do what you were doing.

I was actually looking for 'portable battery-powered mini tv' and that came up. All the other things I found had a battery included, which was great, but then they didn't have an hdmi connection, so that didn't work. If you can find a mini tv type of thing with a built in battery, and hdmi connection, that would really be your best bet.

Hi, yes I can imagine you’d want to know that. I don’t have my solution done, yet. I think my problem and yours are, essentially, identical. I’d love to have a simpler solution than the one I’m headed for, but for now this is the only one I know of. If you want to follow my lead, you’d want to get a hub, hook it into your WiFi. Get a window/door alarm and connect it to the hub. Set up a notification for when the window/door opens or closes. Finally replace the magnet with an electromagnet powered by your generator. Powering the electromagnet seems to be tricky. I wrote to the guy who runs this site: https://www.homemade-circuits.com and he suggested a circuit I could build to power the electromagnet. It seems like a lot of work for a fairly straightforward problem, but I’m retired and the components are pretty cheap, so I’m going to give it a go. IF you want to go down the path I’m on, I’m using the Wink Hub 2. Many people beat their heads against the wall with this product, so you could use another hub. The window/door magnet switch I reference in my original post says it now works with the Samsung SmartThings Hub, so that might be an option.

I have been thinking about adding door/window sensors to my system.

There are a few different options at or near the $20 pricepoint.

Still ads up, but $50 is way more than you will actually spend.

Edit: Just saw you said CAD. Not sure which of these might be available in Canada.

Did a quick check on the model of sensor you listed above and the Amazon listing indicates it requires the Samsung SmartThings hub.

I bought the Samsung SmartThings hub. So far, the door sensor and the Centralite Smart Outlet paired without a problem! I haven't had luck with the Sercomm iCamera2, even though I tried adding this code to the SmartThings IDE thing. Also no luck with getting it to see the motion detector.

Oh I didn't think of putting it in the oven!

This one would easily pick up 10-20 degree temp change mounted under a cabinet nearby, for instance.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions I ended up getting this and its currently installed and reading 1F. I set up a piston in webcore to send me a notification if the temp gets above freezing but of course didn't think to check it till after it was installed in the freezer.

If it just dies suddenly I'll be sure to let everyone know so they can avoid it in the future.

Can't guarantee but I believe these are the correct cable.

​

https://www.amazon.com/43x2pcs-Connectors-Security-Lighting-MILAPEAK/dp/B072BXB2Y8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=12v+camera+power+pigtail&qid=1562369293&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sure. You will need to purchase a power supply (this one is 12 volt) to drive this controller. So figure out if your strips are either 12 or 24 volt. If they happen to be 24 volt, this controller has a built in power supply for 24 volt LED strips only. Both can be added to the Philips Hue Bridge.

As for connections, I used these for RGB strips and these for power connections.

​

​

I haven't been happy in my search for IR lights too.

If you can use AC power or 12V DC, then look at some IR floodlights. Here's an example. It's "850nm", but it's not just a single wavelength. The output is a curve that extends down to visible wavelengths. Usually that's not a good thing, but in your case it is if you're using that film.

For flashlights, I've been underwhelmed. I got a couple of multi core zoomies built on the SK68 since I didn't want to spend a lot unless I find something decent or build my own. If I build my own, it'll be built on a showerhead reflector flashlight so that I can put in enough emitters to get a lot of output.

Have you tried IR with digital cameras? The cheap Gopro clones, actually more like SJCAM SJ4000 clones, have an IR filter that's possible to remove. I think there are adapters that would let you use a long pass filter too. Supposedly some cell phones don't have IR filters on the selfie cam too.

Would love one of these... Univivi IR Illuminator 90 Degree Wide Angle 8-Leds IR Infrared Light for Security Cameras. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075F7NV56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hgq8AbK209BTZ lolol

Edit. If that doesn't work this time.. then I guess this one

Manker E02 Best AAA Flashlight 180 Lumen Right Angle Keychain Light Mini EDC LED Flashlight with High CRI Nichia 219C, Reversible Clip & Magnet Tail - Black Color https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J3TB9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2hq8Ab9PEPRMZ

you mean like this? ~ 90 degrees. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F7NV56/

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Camera-Improved/dp/B07GN355R6 I have this one RCA DB2 its a rebranded Hikvision (hikvision branded ones are available but not in the 3MP model) there is a Laview one that i believe is the same.

I have it set up recording video, audio and motion events in blue iris and use the RCA app for doorbell rings and 2-way audio. It does communicate with a hikvision server but no subscription is required.

Supports a mechanical chime which I am also using.

I'm sure you can integrate video and order into homassistant either using the rstp stream or via mqttt through blue iris if you use it. As far as I know the old model people have been able to do 2 way audio in other software like blue iris but as yet nobody has been able to send voice to it's speaker on the new one.

Also thoughts on yubi for hardware wallet

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018Y1Q71M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1496155332&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ledger+nano+s&dpPl=1&dpID=41dymtMJhtL&ref=plSrch

are you trying to signal Home Assistant that you opens the garage?

If so, check this one out.. a z-wave sensor put on the garage door that can talk to Home Assistant.. it could be an option!

https://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Plated-Reliability-Garage-TILT-ZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B00HGVJRX2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1522266790&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=garage%2Bdoor%2Bsensor&th=1