(Part 2) Best ac adapters according to redditors

First off, one of these:

Thanks for the link! I found it after reading further in the discussion, but it’s problematic for a few reasons.

1. All of those tests were single-core, and the Pi4 will definitely use more power when running Octoprint, with its multiple processes and threads.
   
2. I’m not even using a Pi4; I actually have a few Pine H64B boards, and I’ve tested them with 1.5A, 2.0A, 2.4A, and 3A power supplies. I can reliably cause hard power failure (including shutdowns) at everything below 2.4A when stressing 4 cores on the system; it tries to draw more power than is available. So I’d like to have the 3A for a little headroom.
   
3. You’re totally right, and I could just use an external adapter, but it seems silly when there’s one that’s almost good enough right there :)
   
   Even though it looks like this wouldn’t quite work for me, nice job on the board! It’s gorgeous. Maybe I can convince you to go with the overkill USB-C higher-current parts on that 12-stepper monster you mentioned elsewhere around here?
   
   EDIT: Hmm, are you sure about this part?
   
   > I'd have to replace the USB type A connector with a USB type C that can handle that much current.
   
   There are a ton of USB-A 5V 3A chargers out there. A quick search on Amazon for "5v 3a usb charger" pulled up several, including the official Raspberry Pi charger which is USB- UL-certified and claims 5V 3A with a single USB-A port.

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!


Thing |Price | Quantity
---|---|----
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1


Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

First, no, this adapter won't work. It's North America to Continental Europe. We use a three prong adapter in the UK. Further, a "universal" adapter to UK costs like £5 in any hardware/discount shop.

But since you want to buy a nice gift, you want something more like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Ceptics-Hong-Kong-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MZD5T3E/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=US+to+UK&qid=1558403633&s=hi&sr=1-5

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I hope your friend has a lovely trip here!

Mackertop 5.25v 3a micro usb wall charger ac adapter for raspberry pi 3 with 1.2m (3.9 ft) power cord.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB44IE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JeT4CbMWE8VW3

Pretty sure this should work

Buy a 3amp power supply. I had the same issue until I picked up a 3amp and, wow, night and day difference.
FWIW This is the one I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88M8TE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

Read the label on your power supply.

If it says something like 110v-220v or 100v-230v or something similar, all you need is an adapter plug to fit your current cord into the new foreign wall socket.

Most modern electronics including CPAP machines are just as happy on 100v as 220v. Nothing is going to burn out and you don't need a "converter" (a device to convert 110 -> 220 or 200 -> 100) you just need an adapter so your plug fits the wall socket.

A converter actually changes 110 to 220 or 220 to 110. You do not need one and in fact shouldn't use one if your CPAP power supply is rated for the voltage you'll be using.

An adapter does nothing but make the plug fit the wall. This is what you actually need. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZD5T3E

Also if you regularly travel between the same places or have something against adapters, you can actually buy the right power cord for your power supply for each country, however it's usually a little more expensive than the adapter.

Here's some of what I used for this project if it helps anyone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L8W9SP3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CDTEJBG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK2DDW4

Get some WD green 4tb drives, they are much faster than those stupid hitachi ones, especially when you put them in raid0. Also that PSU is way overpowered, the 900 series is very power efficient, you should be fine with this one

The CanaKit ones are usually good as a starting point (unless you don't want to buy the components individually, though as another person said, the power supplies that ship with them aren't the greatest.

If you DO want to buy the components individually, however, you only need to get the board itself, an optional case, and the power supply. Here's what I've seen most people use.

• Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (around $35 USD. It's the most powerful iteration of the Raspberry Pi. It might fit your needs, as it can play PS1 games pretty well.
  
• Official Raspberry Pi Power Supply (5V/2.5A)
  
  You could also invest in heatsinks or fans if you want to keep the Pi a bit cooler in temperature. Or, you could also buy a Flirc case, which is around $15 USD, which acts as a giant heatsink. It's one of the more popular cases around here, and for good reason. It's very reasonably priced in my opinion, and it does a good job at keeping the Pi nice and cool, so you don't need a fan.
  
  Speaking of cases, if you want that retro console look, there are some pretty good options, with one of the most well known case makers being Retroflag. They don't come with any form of cooling like heatsinks and fans, so you'll have to provide those separately.
  
  If you are asking about controllers, you can use both wired USB or wireless Bluetooth controllers as well (though you'll need to have at least a USB controller or a keyboard connected to the Pi for the first part of setting it up which will ask you to configure your controls which work across the RetroPie environment (that includes EmulationStation which is used to launch your games, and RetroArch which powers most of the emulators included with the default RetroPie install).
  
  You can read the RetroPie documentation for more information on RetroPie itself too.

This CD-ROM uses a molex-style power connector.

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Adapter-Switch/dp/B07GFSGQTG/

Some 2.5A supplies are fine, some are not. I use these with 100% success so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Micro-USB-Charger-Raspberry-Pi-Adapter/dp/B00L88M8TE

If you have a few supplies, try them out and check the throttled flag after booting. If it's 0x0 after booting, it should be fine.

Pwr Replacement Charger 5V 2A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88M8TE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This got rid of my low voltage ⚡.

You probably wont find it in a store, but amazons got it for $20
https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-SoundSticks-Multimedia-NU40-2160150-I3-700-0036-001/dp/B00NW8KK8Y

5V 3A here: (bonus - on/off switch on the cord)

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B/B+ Plus Power Supply 5V 3A Switch UL Certified Compatible w/ 2.5A 2A 1.5A 1A Fast Rapid Charge AC Adapter w/ 1.5m Extra Long On Off Power Switch Micro USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XMTQJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_cIvNBbSJ1YERY

They use molex or sata power connectors.
If you want to test with your psu, make sure nothing else (motherboard, gpu, drive, ...) is connected and jump start your psu.
What I did last time was buy a 12V psu with molex connector and used that. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TJNDU4

Okay, I've got one for you, and I rarely see any DJ ever do this. You might consider getting a spare power supply (power cord / AC adapter) for your controller. AC to DJ power supplies do fail, and since it is not an easy to find item, if it goes out the day of your gig, you are screwed.

For my Denon MC7000, I can order the adapter online through Denon for $30. That way I am 100% positive that it will have the right voltage, amperage, tip size, etc. and is guaranteed to work.

Or you could just get off Amazon a universal one with switchable voltages and tips. The one I linked should have enough amperage to run a controller (the Denon takes 4000MA, and that one is up to 1 amp. Just be sure when you get it that the tip fits, and that you are using the correct voltage, tip polarity, etc. I can help you with this if you need - PM me.

Edit / tldr yep 10A

I got this one but paid too much ($40!) because I'd gotten it in my head that I had to have a level 6 efficiency rating: https://www.ebay.com/itm/120W-12V-10A-AC-DC-Efficiency-Level-VI-Switching-Power-Adapter-w-6ft-Power-Cord/401068677983


The unofficial wiki is an amazing resource: https://mpselectmini.com/parts/power_supply has an Amazon listing for ~$22:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FFKL7CR

Just found this one for $18, level V efficiency:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PWZQ33N

Key specs: The barrel jack is 5.5mm OD, 2.5mm ID, that's the key to search for as a lot of the cheaper ones have 2.1mm ID which won't fit.

Is something like this not an option?

Gotcha, I went ahead and ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XMTQJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the info. Would it be safe loading retro pi, setting it up without actually loading a game?

This is what I'm currently using, and they've been fantastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JMUJFWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased this power supply for it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HNL5D56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've worked wonderfully, haven't had to re-stick any of the strips. Highly recommended.

Just make sure whatever you get is waterproof.

I've had it for less than a month, but so far I'm really liking it for the most part. Here are some pros and cons I thought of about this scope to help you out:

Pros:

• It's great for visual observing! With it I've seen the Great Red Spot on Jupiter, moon shadows on Jupiter, the Cassini Division in Saturn, detail in Saturn's atmosphere, detail on Mars's surface, and so much detail on the moon that it almost looks like I could touch it. Deep sky objects also look great through the scope. (I live in a heavily light polluted area and I can still see some amazing things, such as certain nebulas and star clusters.)
  
  
• It's great for planetary photography. (Don't really need to explain this one, as there's an example image in this thread.)
  
  
• If you get it aligned well, the goto function works great! I've had lots of fun using it because it's a great way to discover new objects you haven't heard of before.
  
  
• Because it's a Schmidt-Cassagrian it has a lot less coma than other types of telescopes, which is helpful for both visual observing and photography. (Though you can buy a coma corrector if you get a different type of telescope.)
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Haven't tested this myself yet as I haven't needed to, but the majority of reviews for the 8SE says it sucks down the battery power in less than 30 minutes when it's on. To fix this issue, I bought a power cord, but if you want to take it out somewhere, you'll probably need to buy a power tank. (Or something like it.)
  
  
• This is not an issue where I live so I can't say any of this with experience, but since it's a Scmidth-Cassigrian telescope and has closed optics, dew can form on the corrector plate depending on the weather. (Here's a page about it with more information.) Uf you don't want to buy anything extra to fix this issue I've heard that leaving the 8SE out for about an hour before you use it will get rid of most of the dew.
  
  
• I've had a decent amount of issues with the tracking being finicky, but it very well could be fixable. (Objects tend to go out of frame over time, even when aligned. This happens most often when I tell it to go somewhere, or when I recently moved it with the arrow buttons. I do find that if I leave the telescope alone for a few minutes to let it "catch up" to its new position in the sky it can keep the object pretty solidly in the frame though.)
  
  
• Because of its mount type (Alt-Az) and its somewhat finicky tracking, this telescope is not good for DSO photography. Keep in mind it is definitely possible to get great images of DSOs with it, but it's a lot harder and if photographing them is your main goal then I wouldn't recommend the 8SE. (Here's a thread I found, in which some of the posts go into more detail about the issues I was talking about.) I bought the 8SE mainly for planetary photography, so this isn't an issue for me.
  
  
• With a star diagonal in, the telescope can't point above 70-80 degrees or so, which can be a pain depending on what you're looking at. You can fix this by moving the tube up on the fork arm more. I have heard that makes the tracking less stable because it's slightly off balanced, so I don't keep it that way, but it is an option.
  
  
  
  Hope this helped! And my apologies if you knew a lot of this already.

A car adapter? Mine came with one. As for the power supply id recommend this


Here is what i bought to track with it.
PC interface Cable
Serial Adapter
And finally this, but this is optional to you. Youll probably eventually want to image from your backyard, and if you do youll want this. AC Adapter

Another thing, Unluckily for me and for you, the mount does not come with a polar scope. Do some research to what kind you want, but I got this one

Other than that, Good luck! If you ever want some real time advice come check out the chat room under the useful links tab on the side of the subreddit! Chances are I'll be there, or one of the AP gurus.

Hi there! :)

That's kind of a bummer. :( I can't think of an easy solution to fix that, but one thing you could do to isolate where the issue lies is use a different power source. The fan runs on 12V DC power, so if you have either a 12V DC power source (such as a cigarette lighter socket in a car, using a cord like this) or an AC power adapter that you can plug in to the wall (like this Celestron one, if you have one). If the fan runs, then something's wrong with the battery pack. If it doesn't run, then the fan (or the wiring leading to it) is faulty.

Clear skies!

https://www.amazon.com/HQRP-SoundSticks-Multimedia-NU40-2160150-I3-AP3211-UV/dp/B00NW8KK8Y

Hi Mate!
You need following Items (on amazon) to power your Hue Lightstrip:


This is the Power Adapter
It's Important that it has 24Volt and at least 20Watt power- this adapter is able to output 24 Watts

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-Black-Generic/dp/B00J8CG86G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473516394&sr=8-1


This is a female to female coupler which you need to connect your lightstrip to the power adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises%C2%AE-2-1mm-Coupler-Female/dp/B002IULV8U/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473516505&sr=8-5-spell

This is is will cost $12.28


If you have further questions just ask.

I hope I could help you :)

It looks like there are some options available. This was what I found in a quick Google search

This one is an adjustable wall wart

https://www.amazon.com/Seven-Star-Regulated-Universal-Converter/dp/B005IDTH76



This company has a bunch of options. This is for 500ma and 1.5V

https://www.acopian.com/mobile/voltage-results.aspx?voltage=1.5&amps=0.5&index=2

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Switcher-Selector-wireless-Supports/dp/B00IAM74UO

Maybe something like this multi converter, though I would look for a used wall wart that puts out 1.5v dc if you have a recycling electronics store nearby.

Do you know the approximate amount of power or current your device will pull, in watts or amps? The one I linked is not very high power, but there are more powerful adapters available. Real AA batteries can put out quite a lot of current for a short amount of time depending on the load, so saying it needs to provide "the same amount of power as a double A battery" doesn't really mean anything. I assumed you meant voltage by that, anyway.

Then you need to get it into the shape of a battery if I read your request correctly. You kinda make it sound like you only need the positive end? Anyway I'm assuming you want to make a fake AA battery: Get a dowel from a hardware store, around 1/2" (14mm). Cut it to about 2" (50mm). Add a metal bump. You could take apart an existing battery to get the piece marked '1' in this picture. I'm not positive (haha) that all batteries have that piece; the one shown is a NiMH. But I remember seeing it in alkalines I took apart as a kid, so here's hoping. Solder a wire to whatever you use for the bump. Maybe add a socket for one of the plugs in the adapter above so it's disconnectable and doesn't require modifying the adapter, if you happen to use one of that style power adapter. If it's a single purpose wall-wart, wire it straight up to your terminals and you're on your way!

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Reversible-Polarity-Positive-Transformer/dp/B01LBX8D58/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541990166&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=9v+1a+center+positive&psc=1

This should do it for you. Set it to 9v and put the proper tip on it and you will be good to go.

ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply Transformer Adapter Converter Charger for WS2812B WS2811 WS2801 APA102 LED Strip Pixel Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.fn3CbQNSC460

That should work for all 4 boards.

Someone else from this subreddit recommended to me, but get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Adapter-Switch/dp/B07GFSGQTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543541013&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=molex+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=418SKRBDODL&ref=plSrch

Makes leak testing so easy because you don’t have to deal with using your PCs PSU.

That sounds more complicated...

Another redditor just posted this DC power adapter on Amazon. However I'd need to drill a hole, and modify it to have a female plug on the bouncer for this to work, and I haven't done that before, but I'm confident enough to try :D

Unless you have an electronics outlet in your town, you will probably have to order it. Radio Shack might have a variable regulator that would work. I'd order the 1.5V fixed regulator from Digikey. They have $5 first class shipping for small orders; someone else linked to a part that would work for you from them.

However: http://www.amazon.com/Seven-Star-Regulated-Universal-Converter/dp/B005IDTH76/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

Probably could just use that.

I do believe it’s custom. I see many of these adapters in my profession, with varying amount and location of the pins.

You can buy the adapter on amazon for ~$12 plus shipping

Do you have a picture of the sticker on the bottom of the machine? Oftentimes they will say the power requirements.

If a normal headphone plug is too big for the charging jack, then it’s probably a 2.5 mm jack.

But the jack size isn’t the only thing you need to know. You also need the power requirements. If they are on the sticker on the bottom, we can find an appropriate charger. If not, here’s someone selling a somewhat expensive one.

Edit: I did a bit more research and found that the requirements are probably 7.5v and 900 mA. Here is a universal charger that has a 2.5mm jack and the option for 7.5v.

You may want to look a bit more yourself. Your requirements are:
-2.5mm phone/mono jack
-7.5v and at least 900mA (mA can be higher, 1000mA = 1 A)
-If you can’t find one with mA listed, make sure it is 7.5v and at least 8 watts.

I wasn’t able to find the polarity. So I don’t know if the tip or the sleeve should be positive or negative. That’s usually printed on the sticker requested as a little diagram. The tip is usually positive, and the sleeve is usually negative, but it would be impossible to know for sure without more info.

These types of power supplies are used for 3d printers and the like. It's totally safe if you wire it up without it plugged it. I know mains voltage scares people, but it's really very easy.

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Adapter-Converter-Charger/dp/B06XK2DDW4

Happy to help!

This is the one I used for my 288 LED project, and it is holding up very well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4

Couldn't you just use something like this and just make your life easy?

https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481139320&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+to+ac+5a

Funny you should ask, TEC1 is exactly what I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UQQ3Q2

Here's what I used to power it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW



However, you're going to want a powersupply with 100w for each plate you use. So for 2x, maybe:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Charging-Replacement-Console-Charger-Accessory/dp/B072PZMSNM

There are plenty of less pretty and component-exposed power supplies which will work well and be cheaper but may require some simple wiring.

For example: https://www.amazon.com/Best-Fit-Switch-Supply-Transformer/dp/B00WQP1B82

I haven't used any handheld pi. I guess there are some good alternatives though.

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NDS with charger. $25 - $40 (I would get the DSi) (DSlite bumpers and things tend to wearout)

A flash cart for NDS. $15 - $20 (DSTT I hear is best) (Acekard2i is great) (R4 is hard to tell the model) (DSTWO flashcart drains battery life, is overpriced, but has built in cpu and emulators for gba snes and genesis) All are compatible with 3ds, NDS, DSi.

MicroSD. $10. Samsung EVO 32gb on amazon is a good deal

The DS has a lot of great games, snes and genesis emulators work okay but not the best. GBA emulation only works with dstwo or ez-flash.

Total $50 - $70.

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PSVITA w/ charger $110 - $150. Never used one, cfw is available for firmware up to 3.68. The firmware 3.69 is not hackable.

Vita Memory Card + microsd $20. Since the proprietary memory card are so expensive.

PSVITA & TV are cfw compatible up to 3.67 - 3.68, however there may be some homebrew incompatibility on these firmwares. 3.69 is not compatible yet. CFW can load PSP homebrew as well as play PS1.

Total $130 - $170

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Wii U complete console $140. Used - Very good

SD card. $15 Sandisk 64gb Extreme SDXC

DS Virtual Console Game $10 From E-shop, needed to play DS on Console/Gamepad screens.

Emulates Nintendo up to DS, has an abandoned PSX emulator from the wii. Portable and Console for TV.

Total $165

​

The consoles and handhelds fluctuate in price. PSvita TV was low as $40 at one time, they are a bit inflated right now but collectors items will hold value. Finding one second hand or used for half-price is probable a used PSP is easy to find for $40 but not online.

​

​

RPI $25 - $40 RPI3b+ is what I have connected to my TV. The RPI2 is similar to RPI0 and emulates PSX but not all, as per the RPI3B+. There are many SBCs, I think the OdroidC2 and Tinkerboard and NanoPI M4 are all interesting but I have not used them.

Case + Heatsink and fan $25 - $30 There are other cases Argon One, SuperPI Retroflag, many others, some bundles heatsink and fan are necessary for the rpi3b+. The retroflag controllers are not preferred.

Power Supply $15 or official raspberry pi power supply.

MicroSD $10

Controllers $15 - $35 There are a lot of options here, recycle your PS3 or XBOX360 controller, Buy a corded Ibuffalo Snes, 8bitdo SF30, logitech, retro-bit/retrolink n64. I think only the RPI3B+ and RPI Zero W have bluetooth, else an adapter is needed.

Total $75 - $130

​

&&&

​

$50 (zero W + microsd + psu) + all the parts for building a gameboy zero

battery ~15

powerblock ~20

usb teensy ~15

controllermodule ~10

lcd and shield ~30

case ~20?

main buttons ~10?

audio amp and speaker ~10?

extra buttons and switches, wheels ~15?

Total ~$195

Power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since the MiniDelta uses a non-standard barrel plug, I pieced these two connectors together for an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6EBCFU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IBFNQP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GUL5CM/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YQ4W53/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFSGQTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

is enough to power 2 nodes with 15 strips (one of the 16 I got was defective, but I have more coming so I can see how much juice the one 2 amp brick can power)

for power i'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FFKL7CR/

Thanks for responding!

This is what I'm using. It seems pretty decent, would it qualify?

Sorry but I can't answer your question about using the apps on your smart TV. To watch football I use an OTA antenna and play the audio thru my tv speakers. here is the switch that I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAM74UO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

But this way you won't need to use the wall adapter to power the ERX, so it's still the same amount of cables. But if you want to use a wall adapter that has enough power for the ERX and the PoE output, this adapter should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Power-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B00J8CG86G

Basically, any 24v power supply capable of more than about 10w (so 0.5A or greater) that has a barrel plug with size 5.5x2.1x10mm

Thanks! If you do end up going with this telescope, I'd recommend getting the AC adapter especially if you plan on doing backyard astronomy as it doesn't come with one.
I'm also looking into buying a solar filter eventually.

This is the one I use...no issues with the lightning bolt:

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B/B+ Plus Power Supply 5V 3A with Switch UL Certified Compatible w/ 2.5A 2A 1.5A 1A Fast Rapid Charge AC Adapter w/ 1.5m Extra Long On Off Power Switch Micro USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075XMTQJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HdOpDb49JBGM2

https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Switching-Adapter-100-240V-Transformer/dp/B07HNL5D56/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?keywords=ac+wall+adapter&qid=1563220232&s=gateway&sr=8-16

Soundsticks?

If so, [here is a power supply](HQRP AC Adapter for Harman Kardon SoundSticks I, II, III, 1, 2, 3 Multimedia Speaker System Sound Sticks Power Supply Cord 16V 1.5A NU40-2160150-I3 AP3211-UV 700-0036-001 + Euro Plug Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NW8KK8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LXllDbZTKYCZ2)

I can’t attest to the quality of the power supply but it’s cheap enough to give it a shot

I am building a proof-of-concept/prototype at the moment. Once I cobble it all together and confirm that it works, I will have to pay someone to design everything into a single PCB.

I was leaning towards this solution for the prototype:

12V 6A AC Adpater

LM2596 Buck Converter

I bought this telescope too on Prime Day. I'm also researching what accessories are recommended. So here's something I didn't know. The GOTO computer thingy runs on 8 AA batteries. If your moving around a lot, the batteries get toasted pretty quickly. Turns out we can get a rechargeable lithium ion battery pack for about $30.00.

There's also the option AC adapter for about $20.00. Celestron sells a "Power Tank" power source, but that doesn't seem like such a good purchase.

If you need to update the software on the GOTO system, apparently Celestron didn't include the needed cable. That's another $14.00. But the thing is, that cable is an ancient 9 pin interface, and isn't compatible with a lot of laptops. You may also need an adapter for another $14.00. Or you can opt for the Wifi adapter for $90.00.

To set the computer up, you need to manually enter a lot of data about your location. Once you power down, the data is lost. Celestron has this GPS device which seems to have pretty good reviews.

That's a lot of accessories. Not sure what exactly I've gotten myself into. I just wanted to stargaze. lol

If it requires a 1.5v dc wall adapter, can't you just buy any new one?
or heck some kind of monstrous thing like this?

If your talking about the rainbow screen that is always there, but if ur talking about the lighting bolt that is a low voltage warning symbol. Letting u know that ur not getting enough power to the pie and using code to remove this warning does not seem like a good idea. I highly recommend changing out power plug to

Mackertop 5.25V 3A Micro USB Wall Charger AC Adapter for Raspberry Pi 3, HP HSTNN-LA43 PA-1150-22HA, Android Tablet Smart Phones with 1.5M (4.9 ft) Power Cord (Raspberry Pi 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB44IE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zarvDbPGKS0GQ

I use this plug with all my pies and no matter image I use or make I NEVER get low voltage. It is better to be safe then sorry.

Eventually I want to power it through the arduino, but the tutorial recommends it's own power supply. This is what I bought and the jack is too small.

If you search for "12V 10A power supply" you'll find plenty. Here's one of the first hits when searching amazon.

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/

I found by searching 12v 10a power supply on Amazon

Thx! The PSU I linked above has a 5.5x2.5mm connector. I found this 120w 12v brick with the same connector size. I suppose they will work fine together. What do you think?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FFKL7CR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s8exDbNWEPNXJ

I've been looking into whole home audio. I plan on doing powered speakers and chromcast audios so I can sync them all up. The MB42X are what I was going to get for my garage, but the powered version PB24X. I think it's like $120 for the set. You can get a different power supply and up the wattage from 15 to 50. https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00LUIKY4S?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00LUIKY4S&linkCode=as2&linkId=4CR4PPC3XI4T6X33&redirect=true&ref_=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl&tag=wwwpuresimula-20 That should get it plenty loud. Now, the reason for the chromecast audio is for the quality. Bluetooth isn't there yet, in my option, but the chromecast pretty much is. You'll get better quality out of that.

These are supposed to be pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

This power brick will help them output a higher volume:
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00LUIKY4S


You'll need an RCA to 3.5mm or 3.5 to 3.5 cable.

Thanks. This is the same one right? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAM74UO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zqhUtb1CMDEJS

I like the M350 case. So, I've added in that case, a 90w PicoPSU and an AC adapter for an extra $80. Couple in the BT adapter, 360 wireless receiver and a 3.5" to 2.5" mount and the price of the whole build comes to ~$320 before shipping and any potential taxes.

However, I've heard some bad things about the AMD A1 platform, particularly surrounding driver support. So I've developed a competing build utilizing the Intel Celeron 1037U chip.

• Mobo/CPU/GPU: BIOSTAR NM70I-1037U Intel Celeron 1037U Dual-Core 1.8GHz Intel NM70 Mini ITX Motherboard/CPU/VGA Combo ($70)
  
• RAM: G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL8D-4GBHK ($48)
  
• PSU: PicoPSU-90, Cyncronix 90W 12V DC-DC ATX mini-ITX ($30)
  
• Case: M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure ($40)
  
• AC Adapter: Sabrent AD-LCD12 LCD Monitors 12V 6A 72W AC Adapter Power Supply ($10)
  
  The cost of the build before accessories is ~$200. Add on to that a Kinivo BT 4.0 adapter ($13) and a 360 Wireless Controller receiver ($10) and the toal build cost would be ~$220 before shipping and taxes, a whole $100 cheaper.
  
  I could also spend $70 on the M350 case w/ an 80w PicoPSU and included AC adapter, which saves me $10 over buying the three parts separately. It's currently out of stock and IDK if it will come back in stock anytime soon. Assuming it did, would the $10 extra be worth it for an extra 10W of power?
  
  What do you think of this build in comparison to the AM1 build you proposed? I've dropped the Foxconn build now because of this build and the AM1 build.

I am currently looking at taking the picoPSU. May I know which ac power adapter do you have? Because I live in Canada, it is a bit harder to get the one by Mini-Box (it is really pricey on Amazon). Do you think this one would do the job? : https://www.amazon.ca/COOLM-Adapter-100-240V-Charger-Lighting/dp/B07FFKL7CR/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ac-dc+power+supply+2%2C5+mm&qid=1563846558&s=electronics&sr=1-1

Here's what I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNL5D56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UHdIDbW74PVN4

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Reversible-Polarity-Positive-Transformer/dp/B01LBX8D58/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5WPF3DEQD0KXGAXNTFH

Eh ya?

Edit: I noticed compared to your finger that adapter is huge. Is it old?

https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/d3fge7/200tb_bare_metal_budget_running_stablebit/?

Anymore advise? https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Converter-Regulator-Flexible/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3S5INB9JVZA2H&keywords=12v+120w+power+supply&qid=1568325765&s=electronics&sprefix=12v+120w%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-3 Would this work?

i only trust the specs of the official power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Foundation-Power-Supply/dp/B01LCNF8FU

mind you, now that i think about it, my pi froze once exiting kodi also. so maybe it's just kodi :)

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Foundation-Power-Supply/dp/B01LCNF8FU/

​

The extra .1V matters. Maybe other 5.1V power supplies might work but I've only used the official one.

any 5v power supply. the plug is determined by the voltage. so this one will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-External-Power-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416605471&sr=8-1&keywords=5v+power+supply

If you'd like you can replace the entire power adapter. Something like this or any other 18-24V 5-6A adaptor will do.

You need an AC to DC power supply. Something like This.

The plug inlet is usually a C14, so your cord would be C13 to whatever the connector is used in your country. The Input range on those kind of power supplies is usually 100V-240V so they can be used in multiple countries, but you should check before buying.

The output voltage should be the same as what you need, and the Amp rating can be the same or higher than what you require. it usually terminates in a barrel connector, but the sizes vary, so you should check what size you need. They also come with inner positive and outer positive, so that needs to be the correct polarity as well.

If you have an old power supply with a part number on it, you can save yourself lots of trouble.

You need to get an active USB 3.0 cable. It needs to be powered. If you have to long of a USB extension that isn't a powered active cable then you will get very bad performance.

This is what I use. [Cable Matters 3.0 extender](Cable Matters Active USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFFL2W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

I use it with this [power supply](JINHEZO Premium External Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ODHJFM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

You would need to pick up another HBA, with external SFF-8088 connectors on it, and hook it up to a JBOD enclosure.

Another option I've explored from time to time is something like this enclosure with breakout cables and a power supply.

The only reason I haven't jumped on the latter is because I don't fully trust the voltage regulation on that power supply (or any others I've found).

I was facing that exact same issue, then I found this power supply on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mackertop-Charger-Raspberry-HSTNN-LA43-PA-1150-22HA/dp/B01HB44IE6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=12Z5711KZGXNBDY7VQPF

​

That low voltage warning never appeared again, look at the reviews.

I never used one before the past few weeks either, and I'm never looking back. The buttons feel great, the Pi responds immediately...my only complaint is that the 1 and 2 shoulder buttons on both sides are a little too close, but that's negligible, you get used to it quick.

Here are my RetroPie details:

• Raspberry Pi 3, Model B+
  
• Argon One Mini Computer case for Raspberry Pi Model B/B+
  
• SanDisk 256GB Ultra MicroSDXC UHS-I Memory Card
  (I know, I went a little overboard)
  
• 8BitDo SN30 Pro Bluetooth Controller
  
• 5V 2.5A Power Supply for Raspberry Pi 3 B B+
  (I've since upgraded to the official one)
  
  Here are all the components together. The thing I love about the case is that it comes with a separate component that puts all of the ports on one side.

Depending on your video connections between your pc to your monitor (dvi , hdmi, DisplayPort) what about using an audio video selector?


Assuming that the Xbox is connecting to the monitor via hdmi, it can pass audio through that. And if your pc is has that or if using a different method you just have to find a selector with the right connections.


Example :
Hdmi in from of and Xbox into the selector.

HDMI out to monitor and this one has toslink out as stereo out.

Etekcity 4 Port HDMI Switcher Selector with Audio, IR wireless remote, AC power Adapter, Supports 3D 1080P, Toslink, Coaxial, 3.5mm AUX Stereo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAM74UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_URI-wbB123V1Y

The one snag is getting the mic to work like this. Depending on your headset you might need a selector that was mic also . More like a KVM

You're correct, I misread the link.

Those 1/8" jacks are heavily current-limited though meaning the supplied 5v from the connector probably won't be able to serve as VCC. This schematic is actually for the board Sparkfun sells. It's designed to run off a 9v battery but any voltage would work as long as you tweaked the value of R4 to achieve the right collector voltage.

If using this schematic, a regular old power supply might be worth considering.

Hey Knexfan0011, I read the amazon link for my Cablematters plug. I found this line " Optional AC Power (sold separately): Power Adapter with 5V/2A center positive 3.5 x 1.35mm barrel connector." Didn't you say that the plug was DC? Here is the amazon link. Does it matter if I buy a DC or AC plug? Thanks!

Edit: Will this work? Link

You are very welcome. Might I ask, what 'thing are you making? Why start your arduino career with this project?
.
Since you gave such nice feedback, I offer you are few more pieces of info.
My estimate of the current required is between 11.5A (5760.020) and 34.6A (5760.060)
These are based on the 20ma per LED or 60ma per LED on the link "Estimating Power Requirements".
The power required from the supply is between 511.5 = 57.5W and 534.6 = 173W
.
Here is an example supply midway between the extremes (this is an example, not a recommendation)
.
ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply Transformer Adapter Converter Charger for
WS2812B WS2811 WS2801 APA102 LED Strip Pixel Light
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Adapter-Converter-Charger/dp/B06XK2DDW4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PJCEWYTSNH8M848BVKQ8
.
I didn't check the links to see if they explained about wires, here's a link to wire gauges vs resistance
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html
.
What wire gauge and length is important, because of voltage drop along the wire.
Keep the wires reasonably short between the power supply and the display.
When you are wiring the 5V and GND to the strips, I suggest adding 5V and GND to the beginning
and end of each of the 8 separate strips controlled by the OctoWS2811.

Here's another one with 174 reviews.
Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter (2A, with On/Off Switch)

https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/Tx33KE7P5M2GUGY/ref=ask_ql_ql_al_hza


https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-MC1-Multi-connector-Add-Fan/dp/B000FAKUE6/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

I see a few options for you.

1. Use an HDMI switch with audio output $40 to feed the Bose all your sources.
   
   
2. Sound stand with HDMI like this Sony HT-XT1 $230 which has 3 HDMI ports and an analog input. Computer, PS3, and Chromecast could go into this unit and then your cable could go into the TV. You'll want to hook the TV up to this unit with an optical cable $6. Now you'll have better sound and your port expansion with less clutter.
   
   
3. AVR - yes it would make that much difference. You could simply run everything (cable, computer, PS3, chromecast, ect) into the AVR via HDMI and then out to the TV with HDMI. You would need some speakers for the sound output as you would no longer use the Bose wave for sound. I know it's probably you're least favorite option but it gives you the most expandability moving forward. It's just the amount of sources you have is really at the level to warrant it.
   
   

Would this not work?

ALITOVE 5V 20A 100W AC to DC Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK2DDW4/

Okay, so the Walmart AC adapter is only 500mA. So that's not happening.

On amazon I found this 5A adapter and this 2A adapter.

Combined with this splitter, would these be a good solution? Is it possible to have too many amps and destroy the pump and fan?

Yea your need to buy an HDMI switch with optical output is your best solution if your sound bar supports but if your soundbar don't support optical....your need 3 things
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAM74UO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_THRXub19PJNNE

And if you don't have optical on the sound ba r an
Your need this
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281571905642&alt=web

Your 3rd is the optical cable
EDIT:Just noticed it has 3.5 mm output for audio...all your need if your soundbar don't support optical....just buy 3.5mm to RCA adapter instead of my second thing.

Yeah, all you need is something like this. Just needs to go from US to UK style plug. The Nintendo power supply already handles the proper voltage and frequency differences

https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Hong-Kong-Travel-Adapter/dp/B01MZD5T3E/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=uk+plug+converter&qid=1556031567&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Do you think going up to a 10A adapter would solve the issue?

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Adapter-Converter-Regulator-Flexible/dp/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=110-220V+AC+to+12v+dc+10a&qid=1571288200&s=electronics&sr=1-10

I tried this adapter as well and it didn't seem to fit the connector. Do you have any suggestions for an appropriate adapter?

• Power issues: You'll need to get a better PSU. I recommend the RPiF one. The MediaPi+ says it comes with a 5v 5A, but I don't believe that for a second lol.
  
  
• Lighting Bolt: See power issues, it's a warning for constant undervolting.
  
  
• Bluetooth: If you want to use a dongle, disable onboard BT buy adding this to /boot/config.txt and rebooting:
  
  dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt
  
  Then go into the bluetooth app and sync your controller. If it's an 8bitdo, don't forget to write a UDEV rule and change the connect method to BOOT.

For the record, this is the power supply I used, and its been reliable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TJNDU4

I had the voltage issues that are somewhat common with his case. Even without over clocking I’d get the lightning bolt.

Got this cord Mackertop 5.25V 3A Micro USB AC Adapter Charger for Raspberry Pi 3, HP HSTNN-LA43 PA-1150-22HA 779573-001 761247-002 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HB44IE6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
And I haven’t had any issues since.

If you're hellbent on it, they make external power for molex, then just molex to sata.

Here you go: http://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4

http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Premium-External-Supply-1000mA/dp/B005ODHJFM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449071148&sr=1-1&keywords=5+volt+power+adapter

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4

Are you in the US?

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Power-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B00J8CG86G

Adapters will be needed, you can pick them up here although it will probably be cheaper if you buy them online before you travel, such as on amazon here. You'll just need to check the electronics you're wanting to plug in will accept 240V input. Most cell phones and cameras are fine with that but better safe than sorry.

> But without knowing the voltage,

There may be a label on the base of the lamp. Failing that, try to look at the bulb itself.
Or, since you'll need to buy a PSU, why not get something like this and start at the lowest setting until it lights up correctly.

The arduino is hooked up to a 9v battery. The breadboard is wired with a lead battery pack with the red wire on one end of the breadboard and black on the other end. My servo is hooked on GND to the neg side of breadboard, VCC to the positive side, and SIGNAL to Pin 10. I also added a wire to GND on the arduino on one end and the other end to the breadboard. I cant sketch out the model like how others do it so i just drew it myself on photoshop, looks like shit i know. But i’ve decided to just use a 12v ac dc as my power supply: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Switching-Adapter-100-240V-Transformer/dp/B07HNL5D56



At this point im getting rid of the battery concept and just using a wall wart

A power supply such as this one? :
https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Switching-Adapter-100-240V-Transformer/dp/B07HNL5D56



Sorry didn’t see your code, ill def look into it.

Any chance you have an Amazon link? There's one that's "official", but I never know if they can really be trusted, lol

https://smile.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Foundation-Power-Supply/dp/B01LCNF8FU/ref=sr_1_5

12VDC 2A power supplies are very common. Do not worry amount the AC watts, those do not matter, all that matters is the DC voltage, DC amps and the barrel connector size. Polarity will always be the same on a barrel connector, do not worry about that.

​

This should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNL5D56/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_7AKTCb4YB7GSW

I want this stellar poster so bad. I figure the odds of winning are astronomical.

If you want something more practical, this is an AC power supply for my telescope.

Just to make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you mean boot up and shutdown of your pce-cd game correct? What other systems do you use on your pi? Are you overclocked? Some systems push your pi harder than others and can expose a power supply that isn't up to the task.

Edit: I will second that the canakit power supply isnt the best. I get the occasional lighting bolt with my pi 3 and had to get a different adaptor. I use this one now and have had no issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Mackertop-Charger-Raspberry-HSTNN-LA43-PA-1150-22HA/dp/B01HB44IE6

I have no issues playing that game on my pi btw.

Did you ever find one? They are seemingly impossible to find with the right size tip. I was thinking about ordering this one, but would rather have the correct OEM one. https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Transformer-Reversible-Positive-Negative/dp/B01LBX8D58

Noctua fans will give you the best airflow-to-noise ratio, and most of them also have among the best static pressure (pressure that doesn't fluctuate because the fan blades are more closely packed together). Airflow is more important for case fans, and static pressure is more important for radiators.

They aren't cheap - around $25 each - but are excellent quality.

Another route you could go (which is certainly unpopular around this reddit) is to get a motherboard with a low-power, integrated CPU. There are plenty of options which include passive cooling. You said you only need basic office applications, so there's really very little need for much processing power.

Two more recommendations from me if you go this route: picoPSU combined with a DC power brick will reduce power consumption because a PSU has its own fixed overhead.

An SSD will also help you save a bit on energy, but will especially make the computer feel snappier as your programs load almost instantly. I recommend a Samsung 830 or 840 Pro (not 840 non-Pro). You can also do well with a Crucial m4 or an Intel 520.

If you use these parts, you can get your idle power consumption down to a mere 20W, which means you could leave it on all year long and pay only $20!

I actually purchased a USB cable with a inline switch (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XMTQJC). That way I am able to cut power to the Pi at will. However, I am not sure if I am going to keep the Pi in the car or take it with me. Because of this the 3 hour timeout may not work for me.

Use one of those outlet strip/surge protectors so you can switch it off easily, instead of reaching around to the back of your case.

Personally, i bought one of thes to do power testing on all my stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GFSGQTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put a power strip next to me while filling the res, and only have the one plug from my little power supply running to pump molex. This way I don't disconnect anything but the pump. Leave your PC PSU off and unplugged. No worries.

I have seen this power supply recommended:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8CG86G/

It's been sitting in my cart on Amazon forever, have been meaning to order it but it never seems like a priority.

I've been having this problem with my Rasperry Pi and Octoprint lately, and I don't know how to fix it. I'm at my wits end. OctoPrint is reporting undervolting of my RPi, but I've tried different power supplies. I've had a Rhino 5V 2.5A, and switched to this PWR+ 3.5A Power Supply hoping that it'd fix it but it's still happening. Anyone have any idea what I can do? Because when I do prints with heavy infill it tends to just pause, leaving blobs everywhere as seen in OP. It's driving me nuts!

I'm running Klipper firmware on it, with nothing plugged in to the RPi except for the printer. I have also tried different outlets and nothing seems to fix it..

This is definitely not it, but something interesting I discovered tonight. I was looking a couple of nights ago at the extension for stopping a print at a specific layer for a filament change. I didn't print anything with it; I just looked at the settings and stuff. Apparently, I turned the feature on during my looking. It was now active for any prints through Cura. Then I remembered the other night I was printing a file from Thingiverse and it suddenly paused in the middle of the job. I wrote it off as bad Gcode. Now I think that the pause-at-layer extension was active when I set up that job and the problem was me and not the job itself. By the way, when I first set up my 3B+, I got the low voltage message in Octoprint. So I replaced the psu with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I don't get the message any more.

I built mine using the following hardware:
- LED Light Strip (Black PCB 5m 30 ip65)

- WeMos D1 MIni (Flashed Tasmota on it)

- 5v 20A PSU

- Radar Motion Sensor

- Home Assistant

- MQTT Broker

​

With my setup, I keep my motion sensor and PSU on top of a microwave in a cabinet, such that it has clear view of a person entering kitchen. When someone enters our kitchen after sunset, LEDs turn on (and stay on while there's motion). When there's no motion, they turn off after X number of seconds.

​

I hope you find this useful and it gives you some ideas

Your link isn't going to an idem for me, but the mention of the excessively bright lights make me think it's the same as THIS ONE that I got from Amazon. It works very well to pull video from Chromecast, FireTV stick, PS3, and Xbox to my projector and Strip the audio out through the Toslink optical to my Sonos soundbar.

Works great but holy damn those little LEDs are bright, like make shadow puppets at the end of the hallway with them bright. Easy to cover up though.

You need an ac to DC converter that produces 4.5 volts and at least 500 milli amps. More amperage is fine, less is not. Voltage must be exact, and you need to ensure the polarity (positive or negative) of the tip that plugs into the unit. If it's not stated it's probably tip positive, but be warned that reversing the polarity is bad.

Something like this :https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IDTH76/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482706483&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dc+4.5+volt+power+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=412IDkaf0pL&ref=plSrch

You can squeeze out a bit more juice from the Miccas with this. That's the setup I'm currently using. Sounds pretty good on my desk. Considering getting a subwoofer for it, though.

i have found the only way to do torch hits with POWER is with this that i bought as an upgrade to my lucidcustom 6A power brick to this beast 12V 10A https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B07FFKL7CR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Want quality? Your amp probably accepts a volt or two above/below 12v. Probably no need for a regulator as long as it's close. You could build a nice power supply with a 9v toroidal transformer, a full-wave DC rectifier bridge, and some capacitors. This would provide a little over 12VDC, as much amperage as you need depending on the VA rating of the transformer and size of the capacitors.

Or you can just buy one like this, which worked fine for me for Tripath amps... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VE7GQQ

(there are other cheaper prime eligible ones, not sure if they work as well).

The following build focused on form factor and total tdp. This is a tiny build and has a total draw of less than 80w. The only thing I could not list (mobile) is the pico psu . that will add 30$ to the build listed below. You can find the! Here

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-picoPSU-80-Output-Input-Supply/dp/B005TWE5E6/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_z


You could save a bit of coin going with the sempron but it fits the budget and will be a better chip

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $64.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI AM1I Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $36.99 @ Newegg
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY XLR8 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $63.31 @ NCIX US
Case | Mini-Box M350 HTPC Case | $34.95 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN725N 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter | $8.88 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $236.11


http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-AD-LCD12-Monitors-Adapter-Supply/dp/B000VE7GQQ/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y

This is the one I use. I typically won't go any longer than 3ft for the cord if I'm planning on using the USB ports for a hard drive and other things but this has never once given me an under-voltage problem. I use it for a Pi with a DAC, 2 flash drives and the Official Raspberry Pi Touchscreen and it works perfectly. Same for the little all in one console I made with a hard drive, official touchscreen, and controllers. The title is a little misleading, it is 3.5A even though it lists 2A-3.5A in the title.

Pwr Replacement Charger 5V 2A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88M8TE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share