Best audio & video cleaning & repair products according to redditors
We found 896 Reddit comments discussing the best audio & video cleaning & repair products. We ranked the 195 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I used this.
Screen Cleaner Kit - Best for LED & LCD TV, Computer Monitor, Laptop, and iPad Screens – Contains Over 1,572 Sprays in each Large 16 ounce Bottle – includes Premium Microfiber Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zwu2AbAESHY77
I use it for all my tvs, tablets, computer monitor, DS, Game Gear etc. They have a smaller size too. Just make sure the screen is powered off and you spray the included cloth and not the device.
To be clear, this is the pen issue we're talking about.
There is a large pen offset, when you touch the metal frame of the device while resting your palm on the screen. This only happens on the SP2017 and Surface Book 2 in combination with the new 2017 Surface Pen.
And here another consequence of this issue
More than ten SP2017 and five SB2 13" devices I tested, some with LOTs as late as 1750, and with 4 pens, some with LOTs as late as 18xx, had this metal touching offset issue. See also stickied thread.
Here some interesting comment from the support forum that might be helpful.
> I also use a bamboo pen for when the surface one starts acting up. I also felt at first like the latest update solved the problem, only for the problem becoming worse shortly after. However, it got worse around the same time a cold front hit my country and the air became drier resulting in higher static electricity. I even noticed my hair getting attracted to the pen due to this. When I tried discharging myself it got a little better and now the cold front has passed us, the performance of my pen seems to be higher as well. So I feel like there’s a corelation between the jitter and static electricity. I always keep hand cream on hand now, and when the jitter gets worse, applying it to my hands seems to help as well.
Also, someone suggested this.
And this might also be helpful.
I've used both rubbing alcohol and ArctiClean to remove thermal paste and ended up finding that the ArctiClean worked a bit better than alcohol. Although if I remember right, the stuff in the first bottle is just the stuff in Goo Gone, and the second bottle is just something that can clean the residue up easier.
Tl;dr: Rubbing alcohol works, but they also make stuff meant for the task.
You can get a Spin Clean which uses proper fluid (not soap) to clean your records and doesn't submerge the middle of your record and ruin it. It also includes microfiber towels and brushes to dry and also to get out any embedded dirt from grooves.
Or if you're cheap like me, you can just use microfiber cloths and anti-static spray like this and just spritz your microfiber towel/cloth with it like 2-3 times and give your record a quick wipe. Gets rid of any static that built up in the pressing process and taking your record out the first time, which 1) prevents it from picking stuff up and 2) gets any excess vinyl out of the grooves so you won't have any issues.
If you have a TON of money to blow, get a VPI machine, which is basically a bit like a mix of the Spin Clean or just some anti-static spray in that you wet the record with special fluid, spin it around on a special turntable while it's locked in, and then vacuum dry it. If you're lucky, places nearby may even have a machine. I have a shop where if I buy like $20 worth of stuff they clean a record for me for free or if I want, it's $1 a record to get cleaned and the results are amazing.
Hope that helps!
25% Off Spin Clean and accessories.
Also the same price on Amazon.
Deluxe and Limited Edition are also on sale on Amazon.
I use this thing on old records and brand new records and it’s amazing how much dirt are on some of the new records.
> It's really scratchy sounding when i mess with the knobs
buy a can of this: https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
It's an interesting amp. Appears to be an early form of surround sound (or possibly quadraphonic?)
There might still be water under the die, I'd spray it down with some deoxit (a lot of deoxit) then spray the card thoroughly with canned air (make sure you get all of the deoxit out from under the die). Then let it sit for a day, then try it again.
https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
as others have said, its worthwhile to upgrade to a turntable with an included dust cover. this will significantly cut down on dust on the tt.
some dust is inevitable, short of a white room. no one has really answered your question about maintaining a clear playing space or how to clean the stylus/records though. here's some more info.
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cleaning the stylus
i use one of these.
however, if you want to go the inexpensive route, i dont recommend any alcohol based cleaners because it can degrade the connection of the diamond/ceramic/etc. tip to the cantilever. instead, you can use a magic eraser. dont go out and buy that mr. clean shit either, its a rip off. buy it in bulk for cheap and clean your whole house while you're at it! just keep in mind that this shit can and will snag on to your stylus and, if you're not careful, ruin your whole day with a bent cantilever.
if you want to go the alcohol route, make your own liquid. be sure to use distilled water(80%) and a mix of isopropyl alcohol(20%). i did this for a time with out any problems, but its not ideal. apply it with a stylus brush. APPLY THE SOLUTION DIRECTLY TO THE BRUSH. NEVER DIRECTLY TO THE STYLUS.
i even hear some people use contact lens cleaner.
if you be fancy...give this stuff a try. a good buddy swears by it, but im a cheap shit and can't speak to its quality or performance.
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cleaning your records
you have many options here.
if you're just starting out, i would just go with a hand held cleaning solution for now. plenty of youtube videos online on cheap DIY cleaning methods as well.
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cleaning the platter and plinth
i do this at least once a week. more if i'm spinning a lot. use a microfiber towel. NO WATER. water attracts more dust, and doesn't belong near sensitive electronics. remove the platter if you are able and be sure to wipe it thoroughly before using again. clean under the platter as well. DON'T wipe off any exposed bearings that are oiled/greased as doing so could harm the equipment over time.
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record storage
if you live in a very dusty place, it might be worth it to invest in some outer sleeves for your records. for the most part though, as long as you keep everything clean you should be just fine. many people get by just fine without them.
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enjoy your new tt! :)
With that symptom, I'd check for microphonic/mechanically failing tubes. I had a similar issue, though the noise was much louder and more dramatic. Turned out to be a bad power tube. You can "chopstick" them, while the amp is on, gently tap the tubes with a wooden object - a chopstick, a pencil, wooden dowel, something of that nature - and see if you can recreate the problem.
Make sure all your tubes are seated properly, and that they're all making good contact with the pins. Could be that you need to have a socket retensioned. Could be a dirty contact on a jack somewhere, you can pickup a product like Deoxit and try cleaning all the jacks. Spray some on a 1/4" plug and plug it in and out of a jack a few times. Or put some on a cotton swab and go to town.
Deoxit is definitely the way to go. If you have some actual corrosion on the contacts, fine grit sandpaper and more Deoxit. But if they are loading at least somewhat consistently, they’re probably just dirty/oxidized. If you had any serious problems, they wouldn’t load at all.
Source: I own a vg store and deal with this on a daily basis.
A spin clean is safer, designed for records, and relatively inexpensive, even if purchased new. I used one for years before investing in a VPI and it worked great.
I have one of these. They do a really good job. I usually get the heavy smudges with the cloth, cleanup with the Lens Pen.
https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481828155&sr=8-3&keywords=lens+pen
Yep!
For anyone without a cleaning system out there, I use the vinylstyl spin cleaner with tergikleen and distilled water for my ever growing collection. And the vinyl vac for any dust/dog hairs before listening. Or for new records that have paper pieces lodged in them.
I much prefer the vinyl styl over the spinclean because it comes with a spinning clamp over the label and a stand to hold 15 drying records. And it's cheaper.
The best cleaning system I could put together in terms of bang for buck. The marked up "alcohol water" refill cleaning fluid is where these companies get people. More collectors should know about tergikleen.
I wrote up this big to-do about how I clean my records, and not sure many people saw it. Pasting it below because I think this hands-down, THE BEST way to clean records.
***
I've cleaned over a thousand of records with this. Highly recommend!!
http://cratedigging.co/13/9832/product_review__squeaky_clean_mark_iii_record_cleaning_machine
One pass to suck up loose dirt/dust
Second pass with distilled water + solution
Third pass distilled water only
Flip record and repeat
Solution is the same that the library of congress uses to clean their records. 20 drops per gallon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019YI38Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7WtMAbSQYZ36W
The included brush with the Mark III wears out quickly. Buy these at Home Depot and cut them in half. I use one for the solution, another for water.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4H2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MYtMAbMG8T3MW
Solution and water can be applied with these squeeze bottles. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E0CZPNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L2tMAbRS7PV87
This cleaning works fantastic for 99%of my records. I can clean a record in 3 minutes. For dirtier records I let them sit in the solution for 5-10 minutes. Stubborn dirt is spot treated with a soft toothbrush.
I put the whole shebang on a storage tub lid (upside down) so liquid that falls off collects in the plastic lid. And when it pools up from lots of cleaning, use a turkey baster to suck up the excess liquid. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H9M6Q46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.tMAbHB8KGDE
My vacuum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M2F7NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NeuMAb188RH6K
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z6N6/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQDS6G/ref=oh_o00_s00_i01_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006J1E5K/ref=wms_ohs_product
http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1332792314&sr=8-7
a big giant syringe of arctic silver
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RTK-PST-Supply-Tester-Digital/dp/B004Q7FUGM/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1332792670&sr=1-9
and some cable sleeving if the client wants it. That's what I've got.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3610/3603521573_d308f3b61c.jpg
Keep them out of direct sunlight for long times as well.
If you want to protect the cases, check this out:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Record-Outer-Sleeves-/370832311308?pt=US_Music_Mixed_Lots_Other_Formats&var=&hash=item565754040c
2: Cleaning? If you REALLY want to give them the works, you can get them professionally cleaned with a VPI machine but that's expensive, costs around 3$ per record. I'd recommend this:
http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
Everything you need to know is in the manual! I also just ordered a VPI machine, by the way, so I'm going to make a post soon on my thoughts.
3: Not really. Just carry them by the edges/inner label, and keep them in their proper jackets when they aren't being used.
4: For #4, see the above comment.
Have a nice day!
Your best bet will be to use a record cleaner like the Spin-Clean. To save money you can make your own washing fluid from some of the recipes listed here.
Wet wash them. Wet wash all your records. Wet wash old/used AND new records. Wet wash every single record that you get at least once.
Some options:
I bought this pack of small microfiber wipes to have something to keep in my pocket for eyeglasses. So far they work just fine for my visor as well. They are kind of small and nothing special but they do their job and they are 0% scratchy.
I repair GBA triggers all the time for a local video game shop. Buy some Deoxit D5 and spray a small amount into the trigger, then just press the button a bunch and qtip any excess that comes out of the trigger. If the trigger button is really bad, it might need a couple of cleaning sessions to get working really good again.
You're gonna need one of these
Cooler Master NotePal X-Slim Ultra-Slim Laptop Cooling Pad with 160mm Fan (R9-NBC-XSLI-GP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005C31HC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.cx1xb53RVMCD
And some of this
Arctic Silver 5 AS5-3.5G Thermal Paste https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OGX5AM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.dx1xbPAJFNPR
And some of this
ArctiClean 60ml Kit (includes 30ml ArctiClean 1 and 30ml ArctiClean 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Iex1xbGMCYTD2
And some coffee filters (lint free cleaning cloth!)
my old room mate use to swear by his
Used to be you could by a disc repair thing in stores, it would use a type of ceramic to fill in deep scratches and some sort of device to grind down the plastic a tiny bit? Probably Best Buy and Walmart have them.
Edit: Amazon has some that are cheaper than local
I ended up becoming really good at the game up until the gold saucer because it kept messing up from a scratch. We ended up using one of those CD buffer things and finally moved on.
Edit: Holy crap, they still make the buffer we used. Saved a lot of games.
I personally recommend getting a Spin-Clean. Kit costs about a $100 and works well. The cloths that come with it can be washed and don't leave fibers on your records.
Amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1458228206&sr=1-1&keywords=spin+clean
This for a deep clean and this for getting dust off right before you play it
AI #6 cleaning formula
MoFi cleaning brush
Zerostat 3
Joanna Newsom - Divers
volume pot needs cleaning for sure. it will probably solve your main problem too.
http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
open the amp, and try to aim the nozzle to get inside the back of the volume dial, then turn the volume dial forward and backwards many times.
might want to use it on the relay contacts while you at it.
How many times a day have you seen, "I just spilled Xxxxx on my keyboard ZOMG what do I do"?
http://www.reddit.com/r/keyboards/comments/wqotj/my_rosewill_mechanical_keyboard_broke_after_one/
I assume you already have some canned air.
You need THIS as well.
http://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
If they don't play, try the SkipDR. I buy and sell dvd's & video games and it always works perfectly as long as the scratches aren't deep.
I used to have http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427138723&sr=8-1&keywords=cd+repair one of these in the early 2000's. It's a pretty simple process and would normally fix most scratches on a CD unless they were really deep scratches.
My disk 2 was scratched and we had to buy another one from a friend until we remembered we had one of these laying around https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC
Heat helps juices steep/cure/age or whatever you'd like to call it. This usually improves the overall flavor of the juice. OP is using his/her heater to heat his/her juice so that it it steeps more quickly.
Same reason why some vapers buy Ultrasonic Cleaners to help their juice steep. It accomplishes what usually takes between 2 weeks - 2 months (depending on the juice and the person vaping it) in a few hours.
If you're only seeing large dust particles on the surface but not hearing much in terms of popping and crackling, then I'd go with just a basic carbon fiber brush like this AudioQuest one. If you're new to vinyl and don't already have one, it's a good thing to pick up anyway. It's good practice to brush each side before each spin. While these types of brushes won't clean a truly dirty record, they'll help your clean records stay clean.
If your records are noticeably loud and noisy then you'll probably have to go the route of wet cleaning. I see kits like this one a lot but I don't think they're really worth the money. You can do a better (and cheaper) job with:
You can lay one cloth flat to set the record on, spray it down and scrub around lightly with one of the cloths (it can help to dampen this with the distilled water). Personally I like to then dry the record with another cloth, spray it down with just distilled water to rinse it then dry again and repeat on the other side but you can find a method/system that works for you. If you're being super particular about it then remember to flip and replace the cloth the record is on so as not to contaminate the side you just cleaned. Also if you're worried about getting your labels wet, car applicator pads like these actually cover a label almost perfectly and they can also be used in place of a microfiber cloth to scrub the record, they work great.
If you plan on sticking with vinyl for awhile though it's worth it to save up for a SpinClean. I was a skeptic for a long time but I'm glad I finally got one, it really is worth the money. It does a good job, it's well built and it's stupidly easy to use. If $80 seems too steep for a yellow plastic trough (which it really is, unfortunately) there are cheaper models such as this. Doesn't have a lid and comes with different cleaning fluid but it doesn't seem like a half bad option.
Whichever option you go with always make sure you're putting your newly cleaned records into clean inner sleeves. If they were dirty in those sleeves it's very likely those sleeves are dirty too. Also remember to keep your turntable mat and stylus clean.
dont use your sleeve bud, get a lenspen
https://www.amazon.ca/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPRO-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506609926&sr=1-1&keywords=lens+pen
This has worked out great for me. I use 2 micro fiber rags. Start by spraying one clean microfiber rag and then wiping the TV with it. DO NOT SPRAY THE TV DIRECTLY. Follow up with the second dry micrfiber rag, and use it to wipe out any streaks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5Z7WCbYF3W78B
Vinyl Styl makes the same sort of device for a bit cheaper. It's called the Deep Groove record washer. Looking on Amazon, there's also another similar device called the Big Fudge Record Friend, which seems more in line with the design of the Spin Clean.
But you could also go the Squeaky Clean RCM route if you want to get into vacuum cleaning instead. It'll run a little more and you need to provide a shop vac, but you won't have to clean in batches that way, and you can likely get a small, cheap shop vac for under 50 bucks at a hardware store or even Walmart.
This one grounds the bristles to you, reducing static.
That's interesting. Browsing Amazon yields this:
http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Groove-Record-Cleaner/dp/B004MG9YYQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
Seems to be pretty much the same.
oh I have the same issue. Ok, so my dad gave me those microfiber lens cleaners that are better than regular microfiber clothes or cotton, something like this Always keep something like that around.
Also, regularly using oil absorbing sheets helps. I like Clean & Clear's https://www.amazon.com/Clean-Clear-Absorbing-Sheets-Count/dp/B003V57Q5I
I also always keep napkins or tissues around to wipe off my eyebrows, often oily eyebrows are the culprit of oil getting on glasses. Anywhere hair is on the face, you will get more oil production-so making it a habit to wipe your eyebrows with a napkin or tissue will help
You'll need special TV screen cleaner. Don't use Windex, it will strip off the anti-glare coating.
Something like ScreenMom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM
First, make sure you only use distilled water. Nothing out of the tap. Also, only use microfiber clothes on your records. If you don't have any, they are usually only a few bucks on Amazon or at Walmart.
There are a few options:
You'd be infinitely better off with a regular vacuum and one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Vac-Record-Vacuum-Attaches/dp/B014X2SXY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496688731&sr=8-1&keywords=record+cleaning+vacuum+attachment
FWIW, I use a spin clean and then vacuum with this on a busted up turntable, and I've been really happy with the results.
I'm not /u/pyroglass, but I use one of those anti-static brushes you can get off Amazon. It supposedly cleans the grooves of the records better than a micro-fiber cloth. I usually use both. First the cloth for the "heavier" dust or such, then finish it off with the brush :)
Or you could just buy the vinyl washer... (yes such a thing exists). I've never cleaned my with and liquids. Too scared it'd harm the records.
The record can also be warped or scratched. Or maybe the weight on the arm that holds the cartridge/stylus needs to be adjusted? When I first got my record player the weight was too "back heavy" so the stylus would sometimes hover over the record for just a very brief moment but just enough for the stylus to jump out of the groove and do a little skip.
> I'm convinced I'll never find another copy of the ones I love if I destroy them even when I know that's not true.
So, 2 things here:
First, it might help ease your mind if you actively know where/how a replacement can be found, and for how much. I'd suggest checking out discogs. This will allow you to see all the vinyl releases for a specific album, and how many are for sales and what the going prices are. For Carpenter's records, you're talking about albums where the shipping cost of $4 would likely be more than the album itself. And if you have a local record store, the task is even easier.
Second, vinyl records are much more resilient than people will give them credit for. Yeah, ideally each album you have will be pristine forever and never encounter dust and not have any pops or cracks in the playback. But, in reality, most vinyl has some inherent flaw right off the press. Whether that's debris from the paper sleeve that got into the groove, or a finger print from a worker that packages the album, or light scuffing from distribution. It's a physical format and that means it will interact with the physical world. Embrace that. It's what makes this hobby fun - it's tangible art. And it's not perfect. But that's okay. Because you'll still be able to drop the needle and hear the music and enjoy the music. And that really isn't going to change if a bit of dust gets on the album, or the jacket gets a little scrape, or even if you accidentally sneeze all over the record.
If you want to be meticulous with your albums, I'd suggest the following 3 products:
Its good I have it and have used it for the last two years but the new Vinyl Styl cleaner looks to be even better because it is modeled after the German Made Knosti, plus it comes with a drying rack. So it appears to have better functionality than the spin clean. Only addition you will need are some microfiber cloths to complete the drying process.
https://smile.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Groove-Record-Washer/dp/B01M0LRLM5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492007033&sr=8-1&keywords=vinyl+style+record+cleaner
copy pasta from an old post about the same issue:
Ok this my or may not work, but it's how people fixed mis-firing buttons on Rane 57s (the 2nd and 3rd edition had issues with the buttons due to regulatory changes in construction materials or something).
First, grab a can of deoxit spray - should be able to get one in your local radio shack or something.
Now the hard part - you'll have to take apart your controller (note - don't do this if you're still under warranty - if you are, send it back to get repaired). Once you get the top off, remove the buttons if you can and find the trigger for the button underneath the rubber/plastic. I have no idea what it would look like, but there should be able to spray into the trigger. Work the spray around the trigger and then let the whole thing dry for a couple of hours.
Put the whole thing back together and see if that helps.
Wiring diagram: http://guzzitek.org/schemas_electriques/pb/750/V7Racer_Special_Stone_WiringDiagram.pdf
I would start at the headlight and check each connection, relay and fuse. Pull the fuses, separate the connections and spray them with contact cleaner. I like this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray-spray/dp/B0002BBV4G/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CAIG+DeoxIT+5%25+Spray+Contact+Cleaner&qid=1554688230&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This is ridiculous for an $8 flashlight. You should complain and insist they replace it. The squeaky nail wheel gets the greasy pounding.
These cheap lights often have crappy contacts, and what you describe happens a lot. The good news is that they're electrically extremely simple. Except for the driver (the circuit board that regulates the voltage and current from the battery to the LED,) it's about as simple as a circuit can get, so it's a good device to learn on.
I have several cheap flashlights, ranging from a few bucks to ~$30. Many of them have poor contacts in at least one place and exhibit exactly the behavior you describe. A simple flashlight consists of the following basic parts:
If you took a battery and an LED, and connected them, it might light up, if the battery let out electrons at the right rate, and with the right pressure. It might melt the LED. It might not be enough to light the damned thing at all. LEDs have needs, just like women. You must (well, should,) give them the right voltage (electron "pressure,") and current (electron "volume,") and, as we all learned from Geordi LaForge, if it doesn't work, you might need to reverse the polarity.
Batteries and LEDs have polarity--they both have a positive and a negative side. Light emitting diodes (and diodes in general,) only allow electrons to go through them in one direction. That's most of their job. The glowing brightly thing is just a side gig. If you connect two AAA batteries up to a 3 volt LED, and you don't get the polarity wrong (50/50 chance of getting it right without looking,) the LED will make light. (And heat. More on that later.) If the polarity is backwards, nothing will happen because fuck you, I'm a diode. I only go one way.
If your battery doesn't put out the right voltage (the unit of electrical pressure) or amperage (the unit of electrical current,) you want some way of stepping those things up or down. The driver circuit does that. Better drivers are called "constant current" drivers; they'll keep pumping out the same current until the battery drops below a critical level. That means that your flashlight will be the same brightness (more or less) from the time you pop in a new battery to the time when the battery croaks.
Some driver circuits are very efficient, and others suck balls, wasting some of your battery's precious electrons on stupid shit, like lipstick and shoes. Different LEDs also have different efficiencies, converting energy into heat and light in differing proportions. High efficiency LEDs turn more of your electrons into light, and less into heat. There will always be some energy wasted as heat, that's just how the universe works. An example of a very efficient LED is the XM-L2, made by a company called Cree. They kind of rock, and flashlights that use good Cree LEDs usually rock.
All of the stuff I've mentioned so far is probably stuff that you can't fix (at least not yet.) The following stuff is stuff that you can fix.
Conductors: This usually includes stuff like the battery contacts (which may be a spring, or flat tabs,) the body of the flashlight (usually connected through its threaded parts,) some wires (sometimes connecting the switch, the driver, and the LED.) The switch is also a conductor, but it only conducts in a specific position.
The first thing to do is to identify the electrical path. It'll be something like: from the battery, through the switch, through the body of the light, to the driver board, back through the top of the battery. You need to test (or at least mess around with, AKA "experiment with,") each place where there's a connection. Each connection should be solid and uninterrupted, and if it has contacts (places where two conductors meet,) they should be clean, and firmly touching the mating contact. It's really a good idea to get yourself at least a cheap multimeter (an electrical test meter.) It makes a huge difference in fixing electrical things.
Here are some examples of stuff to check. Contacts can be cleaned with a pencil eraser, or with Caig DeOxit, if you're fancy.
Now... the switch. If the switch is bad, you can fix it if you're really enthusiastic, but usually people just swap them with a good one. To test this, use a piece of wire to bypass the switch. "Shorting" it out--this cuts the switch out of the electrical path. (You probably need to do this with the bottom removed, so you need to replace the threaded body connection with another wire.) If everything works fine with wire replacing the switch, you may have a bad switch.
My caffeine level just dropped, so I'm stopping. Hope that helps you figure out what to Google, anyhoo. Take your light completely apart and test all the parts. Learning how isn't hard at all. All the answers are one the web!
Have fun!
It's just a heatsink that is (supposed to be) stuck onto a chip with thermal adhesive. It's the same thing as thermal paste that goes on your CPU, but it's sticky and meant to be permanent.
If you want to fix it, buy some thermal adhesive, try cleaning off the old adhesive with alcohol or acetone (nail polish remover), and put on the new stuff. They also make this stuff for this very purpose.. I have some, it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU/
You're 100% correct, but as someone who's had to fix a lot of HP laptops over the years, the thermal paste replacement mentioned above is always a good idea as well. HP has always used the worst thermal paste for their factory builds; after a year or two, you'll find it solidified and acting as an insulator rather than a heat conductor. If they used those stick-on thermal pads, it's even worse. The real question is why is it overheating? If the fan is moving, then either it can't move the heat because there's dust choking the heatsink fins, or it can't move heat because the heat is being trapped before it gets to the heatpipe. It's usually a combination of the two.
Also, not fixing this now means the fan will eventually burn itself out running at full blast like that. Better to fix it now than have to also buy a fan along with the thermal compound.
I recommend some thermal compound remover to clean up the existing stuff too. If it's HP's stock grease, it gunks up and gets very difficult to remove. This kit has both remover and new high-quality compound:
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B002DILLMS/
or remover-only, if you already have the silver thermal:
https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/
This stuff
Ah I gotcha. Was gonna say that just adding more paste and not removing old stuff won't help.
I use this stuff but you really only need the first part of it.
If dusting it out entirely didn't solve your problem I highly recommend tearing it down entirely & replacing the thermal compound on the APU. Be mindful of the 16 heat dispersion pads on the memory chips encircling the APU (8 on one side of the main board & 8 below). Get yourself some good thermal compound & use quality solution to fully clean/prepare the surface of the APU. Some people may tell you to get higher end thermal compound than what I've listed below but I'm telling you truthfully, I've tried a bunch (including the higher priced stuff) & this works just as well. Replacing the thermal compound fixed my loud fan issues. I've since done this for several friends & none have experienced further issues.
Cleaner & Purifier
[Microfiber Cleaning Cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019O1RG9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469112524&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=Small+microfiber+cleaning+cloth)
Thermal Compound
Edit: Formatting
You should never re-apply thermal paste on top pf the old stuff. Make sure to clean it off as much as possible. I used this to clean the old stuff out of the V20.
That is a setup I've also played around with making but haven't gotten to work, at least not yet.
For starters, 250 titles should be able to fit on a single 3TB HDD without any processing/removing of titles. Thus, for now, you'd actually be able to hold all of your movies uncompressed and with all features on a storage HDD.
When I rip them, I mostly use AnyDVD to get around the CSS protection and mostly just copy the files off into appropriately named directories. The advantage of this over ISO files is that I can do this to all DVD drives simultaneously and thus I'm able to backup four DVDs at the same time. When you're moving your collection onto a digital medium, sometimes this is a really huge time saver! (In addition, having four different DVD drives gives you flexibility in dealing with hard-to-read DVDs since sometimes different models can read ones that the others can't.)
Once I run into DVDs that just copying doesn't work with, it's usually a Funimation title from the time when their DVDs showed up as 90GB behemoths (most likely a filesystem bug or copy-protection trick?) Anyways, CloneDVD knows how to understand the titles. You can also use that to just rip specific titles and remove the menus, leaving you with just the movie itself like you want, although this will narrow down your ability to process DVDs to one at a time.
I have CloneDVD output to multiple files just like the copying procedure but at that point you have the option of outputting to an ISO which may work better for what you're trying to do. If you've got the space, something like this would probably be ideal over reprocessing and unintentionally introducing more compression artifacts, although you'd probably not really notice anyways.
Both of those programs haven't been able to deal with unreadable bytes, though, so I purchased DVD Fab to take care of that. However, I might have read that one of those programs might have been updated to better deal with that?
Also, around the time I started doing this was when I got my DVD resurfacer. Some DVDs have permanent errors introduced in the manufacturing process and some have really deep scratches that I haven't been able to work around but many titles that I had trouble reading became more readable. This is what I got. Seems alright but as my only disc resurfacer I can't claim that it's necessarily better than any others.
Now, the way I watch my stuff isn't quite what you're looking for. Basically, since all my DVDs' individual files are in directories, going into those directories looks exactly like looking at a DVD's directory, thus anything that knows how to handle those should work with the setup. In my experience this includes VLC, PowerDVD, and TotalMedia Theatre, but I imagine more players should work. I have all of that data between two media servers which are simply running Ubuntu and sharing those folders using Samba (so that Windows machines can access them.) I use symlinks to organize the DVDs into series/folders so I don't have to worry about if volume 1 is on disk 5 and volume 2 is on disk 7 ; wherever there's space I can simply put a ripped DVD. (Note that with over 4,000 ripped discs that I of course use a script to automate the creation of these symlinks.)
Thus, on the TV on my computer, I simply go to //Anime/ and navigate to the DVDs folder, find the series/movie I want, click on that folder to see the individual discs, and right-clight "Play with VLC media player" and voila! The DVD starts up.
Now, my only experimentation into playing these in a more fancy setting has been using XMBC and BOXEE (which is based on XMBC). All I know for certain is that these don't quite work like I'd want. I'm not sure how to manually add stuff and I don't think they played DVDs in this format too well. It's possible that they'd work better with ISOs, though, but I suspect things would still be better if you were able to manually mess around with XMBC's database.
Now, I want to note that some of the above-mentioned tools can sort of work on blu-rays but that is still a much more experimental field for me and with the price of HDDs being so high at the moment combined with so much of my time/money/energy going into moving out I haven't played around with all of those too well. (Since I still have to dig out the discs anyways.) All I know is:
EDIT: I should also note that many of the tools I mentioned above are not free ; I was willing to spend money on the solution that worked for me for keeping my anime DVD collection organized.
Legit bought a cd disk cleaner. anyone else buy one of these?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Innovations-1018300-SkipDr-Classic/dp/B0015ACUKC
That, my dear friend is the absolutely best thing for this kind of thing. If it can be fixed, this should do it.
Video of it in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGACqFfOiE4
Clean, clean, clean. And not just dollar bin finds, or records when you can visibly see dust. Serious collectors spend $$$$ on crazy contraptions, bu there are plenty of cheaper options.
An anti-static brush is not an option. There are plenty out there. I use this one. Place it on the record while it's spinning, and let it hang under it's own weight (i.e. don't put down) for a few rotations. Scrape and dust off of the bristles and do it again. Do this before and after you play each side.
There are lots of solutions and cleansers, some specifically made for vinyl, some general cleansers, some homemade, that are touted as the best way to clean records short of buying a $5000 machine. And a raging debate regarding isopropyl alcohol. Because I prefer to avoid the pain of rinsing, I like cleaners that evaporate/wipe off without leaving residue. I like Lasermedia VNC-8 personally. Ammonia and alcohol free. In between the obligatory anti-static brushings, I spray the record with this, spread across the surface as evenly as I can with one microfiber cloth (call this one the 'wet' cloth, then I use a cleaning brush firm enough to put some reasonable downforce on the surface, then 'wet' microfiber cloth again and then another ('dry') microfiber cloth, by which point most of the solution should have evaporated or been dried by the second cloth. When using cloths and brushes, I always start from the edge of the record and move inwards, following the path of the groove. Never against or parallel to the grooves.
Old, used records obviously should be cleaned before being played, as is true of any records that you've let get dirty/haven't cleaned thoroughly in a while, but new records need a cleaning too. Perhaps not so vigorously, but there are chemicals, residue, and other unwanted debris that can remain from the pressing process.
I know it all seems tedious, but it protects your records (playing a dirty record can permanently damage the surface) and your stylus. Plus they'll sound better. Isn't that the whole point?
Just started using the Hunt EDA Mark 6. Very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G
I have a generic version of this brush. It works pretty well for surface dust.
www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G
If you want a deeper clean a DIY vaccuum wand is a good place to start.
No. Get an actual record brush. Like this Hunt brush
If it is really dirty, I use the wood glue method. I'll be buying a record washer soon though for more regular cleaning.
My regular cleaning is really just using an Audioquest brush to get any dust off right before I play the record.
As for the stylus, I use a Magic Eraser. I used to have that dust ball problem until I started using the brush. So stylus cleaning doesn't happen as often as it once did.
Here's some links:
Brush
Record washer
Magic Eraser
Not sure what is making yours pop, but a Spin Clean record cleaner is handy to have, either way. Especially if you are buying used vinyl. There are DIY solutions out there, too, but this works really good if you have the budget. Cleaned up a lot of records I had that looked perfect, but still had some pops. Also, something to remove the static helps. I use anti-static sleeves.
you are going to go through a few styli
giving the condition of the grooves
hopefully you make enough to replace them and break even
as far as making them sound less gruesome, a spin-clean would help
greatly (the most affordable option)
http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1374106342&sr=8-2&keywords=record+cleaner
A good way (not the best, but easy and affordable) is with a Spin Clean. I’ve returned quite a few mold-covered records from the dead with mine. https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Spin+clean&qid=1570374947&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2LY9PGKPA6CIT&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVVpMWkRGUkdYMjVJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcwNzUxMUI4TFM2TTA3NlZSWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTU5MTIzQ1NGQjZWNVo5TkdXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I’ve heard that vacuum-based cleaners are better, and I’ll believe it, but for now I’ve been really impressed with the Spin Clean, especially for under $100.
Soap and tap water can leave residue and mineral deposits and chemicals that are not good for vinyl.
Did you watch all of the videos all of the way through? See how it is completely soaked here https://youtu.be/6rXsSzEhkn8?t=464
The small 1 or 2 oz bottles of cleaning solution included with the brushes is not enough to soak an album or two.
Make a large spray or squirt bottle full of cleaning solution and completely soak one side at a time. Do not use it sparingly, it's cheap, you will have a large bottle of it for a dozen albums.
After cleaning rinse off over a sink with plenty of just the distilled water from a spray bottle.
Or use a Spin Clean that soaks the vinyl in the tub of cleaning solution that you can also use the DIY solution in instead of buying more Spin Clean fluid.
If your sister's got a few warped records, a record clamp would certainly be useful. Cork mats OTOH tend to be less staticky than felt so would certainly be useful in dry environments. Should you be leaning towards the record clamp direction, Pro-ject will sell you one. You could also perhaps consider buying other stuff, like record cleaning kits, test records and/or gauges to help her set up her new turntable.
You may need to replace the belt. Look on eBay for a replacement. Is it worth keeping? That’s up to you. Do you like it enough to keep it? Don’t throw the records away. Give them a good wet wash. Also look into the Spin Clean for $80 dollars on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527558951&sr=8-3&keywords=Spin+clean
I had a bunch of records with mold on 'em and it cleanded off easily with a Spin-Clean.
That would suggest a lot of static. Maybe use some kind of static remover like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milty-Zerostat-3-Anti-Static-Gun/dp/B0033SHDSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521899808&sr=8-1&keywords=static+gun
Although I don't personally use one, I've heard good things about the Zerostat 3
I feel your pain, I've been printing 20x24... with a glass carrier... and contrast masks. So sometimes 8-10 surfaces for dust to collect.
90% of household dust is said to be human skin, so don't lean over your negs too much. Static makes dust stick, so keep the humidity up - run some hot water, get a small humidifier. Darkroom are usually easy to get the humidity up.
Clean your enlarger every few weeks - take off the condensers, disassemble, blow with compressed air, and put a clean trash bag over the enlarger when not using it. heat from the bulb will make dust float around in there.
I use a zerostat gun, but that's pretty luxe. But for $20 or so I rigged up an LED magnifier on a magic arm. My process:
Wipe down the work area with a damp towel and run some hot water (I have an electric kettle that I turn on).
Zerostat the neg if you have one. Then give it a good blast of canned air, front and back. Look at it under the LED light (with no backlight). Twist and turn it so the surface reflects - you'll see individual dust spots. Use a small artist brush to sweep them away.
I clean the glass carrier first (if I use the glass) and inspect it. Then the neg, and seal the neg in the carrier. I'll do a test print and if I see something that's tough to spot, at least I know where to look for it on the neg. Hairs and fibers are much harder to spot (EDIT - by "spot", I mean paint out of the print with spotting dyes as the last step) than dust spots, so avoid wearing those cotton gloves. They seem to dump some fibers.
Are you spotting your prints? It's unavoidable. You'll still get a spot or two, so get some spotting dyes and a #000 and #0000 artist brush (get decent ones, check them out vs. mail order) - use them only for spotting prints. I have long-discontinued Marumi spotting die set, but I do lith printing and toning (so I get reds, browns, ochers, yellows, blues), so I use a good quality watercolor set. I have an awesome loupe with an opening for a paintbrush, so I can actually "paint" film grain back in. That's not necessary for basic spotting but it's nice to have. Sort of the BMW of loupes.
Spotting matte prints is very easy - go light and it will be invisible. Spotting gloss is harder - I use gum arabic powder and mix a little slurry of it to mix with the dyes/watercolors and try to match the gloss. Spotting is an art unto itself, but I really enjoy it, kind of a zen thing. Google has some videos, don't know if they're any good but have a look.
Can recommend this also https://www.amazon.com/Bryson-Screen-Cleaner-Trigger-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6
I think rubbing alcohol is a bad idea. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Better to get a specialized cleaner like this: https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6
any lcd cleaner will work as long as you use a microfiber cloth.
Not just the connections can be a problem, but the switch its self can develop invisible corrosion on the contacts that will keep it from making connection. They make a great contact cleaner for just this sort of thing (it's not cheap, but it really does its job well):
https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
This is all so much easier to trouble shoot if you have a (cheap) multimeter, and know how to us it to read resistance. Meters can be had for less than $10, and it really isn't hard to use for this sort of trouble shooting. It could tell you almost immediately if there's really a problem with your pickup (which is a rare, but not unheard-of thing to happen).
Your diagram is so well done that it indicates that you have all the potential that anyone needs to be walked-through trouble shooting this sort of problem. Get a meter, and I'd be happy to help you trouble-shoot this problem.
Get some DeOxit, open the unit and go through each switch one by one and give them a cleaning. You want to spray DeOxit into the switch, and then turn it all the way back and forth about fifty times. I'll bet the Marantz works a lot better after that.
I think the blades can run off two plugs if the boards are still operational, but if there is an electrical problem then I'm not sure I'd want to risk burning down the house. You can also look into getting Deox-it and trying to clean the burnt stuff off the connectors. I had a similar situation with the PSU inside a S4 and the Deox-it did the trick.
I'd be very careful though because there is something very wrong with the connections if something like that happened. Check each have plug individually to male sure they are all solid and ensure there is a proper breaker somewhere on the circuit you're using.
Thanks for the detailed reply!
> I'd recommend using www.vinylengine.com[1] to search both makes and models. What you'll find is that the PL-600 was one of the finest, highest performing with top specs, full auto turntables ever made. Then look at the specs for the Dual and you'll have your answer. I don't mean to step on the toes of Dual fans, but it's not even close.
I have heard the PL-600 is a gem. I was pretty pleased to pick it up. Now, I will say, once I got the Dual up and running it was a really warm sounding table. It has an old Shure Hi-Track head on it (which I believe is now branded the M91E) whereas my PL-600 has
a brand new M92E on it. I'm not experienced enough to know if that has any real bearing on it.
> It sounds to me like your PL-600 needs a new tonearm belt (easy to find through Google) and some Caig DeoxIT sprayed under the buttons. The power button on my PL-600 stuck and that solved it.
The tonearm belt diagnosis is indicated by the failure of the arm to move and the motor hum I hear from the area? Also is this the cleaner you're talking about here? I assume I need to remove the shell and gently squirt it up into the contact area on the underside of the buttons? Remove the buttons and actually clean them in detail like I would clean a gun part?
> While you're at vinylengine.com, download the service manual for the PL-600 and it'll take you step-by-step through the belt replacement process. If you're not comfortable doing it, print out the relevant pages and take it and them to an electronics tech. Explain that you have the service manual and you'll save him time, and yourself money.
Already printed them out and reviewed them. I think I can pull this off. I'm 95% inexperienced with turn tables but I'm pretty handy with all sorts of other stuff. Let's say I need a hand though... when you say electronics tech is this the sort of thing a general electronics repair shop can handle or should I seek out a table repair shop?
> Your PL-600 is a real find. They had all the performance of the legendary PL-630, but due to a minimalist appearance they flew under the radar and didn't get the props they deserved. That said, if you can get it up and running well, you'll have something right on par with the Technics SL-1600MK2, which is saying something.
I think the appearance had a lot to do with it. I also think Pioneer really screwed up by releasing a later PL-600 (why they used the same model number I'll never understand) that was a really junky nearly-all-plastic model that sorta look like the original PL-600 but didn't perform like it at all. I bet a lot of people who had experience with the newer PL-600 looked over the older ones and/or told their friends not to bother picking them up.
> One last thing, check to see that your PL-600 suspension is active. The platter and tonearm should bob up and down a little when you touch them. When I bought mine from the original owner, the transit (shipping) screws under the platter were still in place, and had been for 35 years.
I'm pretty sure the suspension is active. The platter/tonearm bobs gently about 1/8th to 1/12th of an inch or so independently of the chassis. It moves a lot less than the Dual, however, which bobs all over the place. Should there be more give in the PL-600?
Thanks again for the helpful reply!
Have you tried to DeOxit?
CAIG Laboratories D100L-2DB Electric Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aMmNDb9AYVZJP
Apply this stuff to your motor connectors, 5o your battery connector, and even your esc connector. This stiff is good to have anyway! It removes corrosion and strengthens metal on metal connections
no prob...up to them if they don't want to spend $7 to keep several hundred $$ of gear working.. added a link for you to deoxit...can find it on Amazon
Here is what I came up:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $209.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Phanteks PH-TC12DX_RD 68.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $113.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $99.99 @ Dell Small Business
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 290 4GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $367.98 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 51.4 CFM 120mm Fan | $10.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $6.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | be quiet! Pure Wings 2 61.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $6.99 @ NCIX US
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1363.85
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-10 15:13 EDT-0400 |
My short rationale for the chosen products:
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Here are 2 video's that guide you pretty well. It's pretty much the same for the whole build process, Ignore the components, it's outdated!
One thing to note; if you install the stock intel cooler. It got pre-applied thermal paste on it. Wich you have to remove after. You can buy 90%+ isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth to remove the thermal paste of the CPU. An other option instead of the 90% isopropyl alcohol is this kit that I personally use as well. You don't need to use to much to clean it.
Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
Make sure that when you clean it, you are cleaning the top of the processor and the bottom of the heatsink that makes contact with the top of the processor. 70% alcohol works, although I prefer this stuff just because I work on a fair amount of systems.
If that doesn't work, try replacing the heatsink and if your temps are still high after that, you may want to try some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. I used that on my personal x240 and it idles in the mid 40's and doesn't get much above 70 when I throw a load at it.
And the fan turns ok?
There are some cleaners for removing the old thermal paste and then cleaning the top of the CPU - https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/
For replacement paste I'd normally go for - https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Compound-Performance-Heatsink-Interface/dp/B0045JCFLY/
Just use a pea-size blob, no more :)
Don't for a second think that you'll be able to use them for lenses afterwards though, they don't wash very well. Also you can use a cotton bud (q tip) and toothpick to get in the fiddly bits. I have applied thermal paste to a gajillion CPUs over the years and I've always used ArctiClean to help. The first product dissolves the old paste making it easier to mop up and the second cleans the surfaces before application of the new paste.
Protip: This stuff is great for removing the adhesive residue.
A cleaner, or resurfacer? I just use Windex and a microfiber cloth if a disc is dirty, but for resurfacing, there's nothing you can use at home that does a good job without spending money.
This one
This is the one i have It works great, and can be found for under $200 at times.
A good one that I would recommend is the JFJ Easy Pro. It's around $111 dollars right now.
http://www.amazon.com/JFJ-Video-Blu-Ray-Repair-Machine/dp/B000RBE4B8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427431313&sr=8-2&keywords=disc+buffer
those skipdoctor things have a better chance and fucking it up further, so be warned on those. I personally have had a lot of success with a cheap buffing wheel. I have that one linked. I also use this liquid
I squirt a couple drops on the edge of the wheel, spread it around a bit with my finger, then turn on the buffer and hold the disc by putting the tip of my pinkie through the center hole, then use my thumb to rotate the disc as I buff the surface. Then use and cheap spray disc cleaner to get rid of that compound.
If you want even more, there is a machine that does all the work, that compound is for those, you just squirt some on the pad, drop a disc in, and turn it on. But that thing is twice the price of a buffer and I don't see a difference enough to upgrade (retro game shop near me has one).
Buy a CD, rip it to your computer, and put it away is the best advise I can give you.
You could try something like a Disc Doctor which repairs scratches.
I've used these with success for the XBox.
Tell him to look into disc buffers. The brand I bought years ago is no longer around (Disc Dr,) however, the spiritual successor is available on Amazon. As a side note, this style does leave a noticeable pattern on the disc when viewed from certain angles. That said, I've used it with Dreamcast, Xbox, 360, and PS2 games, and most read fine (there was one DC game... not sure what it's story is... ah well, at least it is a common game.)
Here, spend 17 dollars on this. I've used it to fix both my halo and MW2 disks that had this happen to them (I'm not the brightest person) and I spent 17 dollars not 120.
You can use something like this to resurface: https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=skipdr&qid=1563986877&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Then I'd recommend you use a program called ISOBuster to attempt recovery. Most recovery software is not well designed to work with optical media, but ISOBuster is.
for when your halo 2 disk stopped working on your xbox
Something like this:
SkipDr DVD and CD Manual Disc Repair System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SPnCzbYQHDXBE
It will work, you just need to buy one of these to remove the scratches:
https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC
Super old school, I used to use these like 20 years ago, but you could try a SkipDr.
So I know this has nothing to do with the question you asked but if you have discs that are scratched up so they won't play but they're not destroyed try the Skip Dr I didn't believe it would work but it rescued 30 DVDs that my kids wrecked pretty good. There were 4 that I was unable to repair but otherwise it worked amazing.
http://www.amazon.com/Simotech-DSR-1-DVD-Repair-Machine/dp/B000GX31G6 works the best
or
I have something similar to this that works well too and is much cheaper
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015ACUKC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000GX31G6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=02E4A7N8YPDGNB8HMD42
You could get the right grit sand paper to do it yourself but thats only $15 and works much better.
It makes the discs look like they are really scratched when you are done but they work great / its just because it literally scrapes a layer of the plastic off so it is not polished anymore. You could try to carefully flame polish the plastic when you are done if you wanted a shiny finish but you would need to be REALLY careful since you have to use a very hot flame / like a butane torch.
Google flame polishing plastic.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015ACUKC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417981512&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40. There might be better ones, but that's the top seller.
Toke a bit, throw the record on the 'table, hit it with the brush (Hunt EDA Mark VI - it's amazing, thank me later) and sit back and listen.
Beyond that, just depends on the day. If I'm doing nighttime headphone listening, I'll usually end up falling in and don't dink around on my phone or anything.
My absolute favorite is to crank up the speakers and clean the house, specifically sweep/mop the floors. There is much jamming to be had.
You're going to have to do a little investing. Here's what I use to keep my playback experience the best I can get.
I use this stylus cleaner once a week, or depending on how much listening you're doing. Careful not to over-clean, as you could cause damage to the stylus.
Purchase this brush, follow the directions on the back of the package and use it every time you put on a record.
Wanna keep dust off as much as possible? Consider investing in these inner sleeves or an equivalent. You have no idea how much dust accrues in paper sleeves, and these static-free sleeves help keep dust out.
Of course, it helps to start with a clean record. But that's a whole other topic. Clean vinyl is happy vinyl.
There are more expensive brushes, I have also seen people here recommend the Hunt record brush. It is $30, so it is not the "ballin' on a budget brush", but if you have extra cash go for it!
I'm not too sure about the brush scratching records (although I hear a bit of bristles breaking off), but I would assume misuse of any brush will damage records.
Dust won't ruin a record, but you probably should invest in a record brush so that you can clean off surface dust before playing your records. There's plenty of choices out there but this is the one I prefer: https://www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G
Just because you mentioned Hunt brushes ... is this the one you have?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001A9ST2G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_4nzQwbB8JDF9Z
I was looking to purchase one and this is by far the cheapest one I found that seems to be of high-quality. I'm hesitating between this and the Audioquest one.
I just use a brush I got off Amazon...but I do passes on my records until I don't see anything visible being picked up (sometimes 5+ full rotations)
Hunt: EDA Mark 6 Carbon Fiber Record Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A9ST2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qK9WCb36TXPQH
This is the one. I like it cuz it has felt between the bristles on either side. I have one without felt and it doesn't do near a good as job. Reviews be damned.
Theres more expensive options but they use liquid and usually means cleaning all your records at once to make it worth doing.
So the bristles are made of carbon fiber... those wipe out dust. The velvet on the spin clean "digs" deep into the grooves combined with distilled water for a much more thorough cleaning. I use this brush on records I've already given a wet clean. It's a better design imo.
> but should I be brushing my records for dust before each play?
It's a good idea. Also before doing a wet clean. Get a carbon fiber brush. I'm using something very similar to this Record Doctor one, but I've also heard very good things about this one from Hunt.
The reagent I'm thinking of can produce chlorine gas, so if you are not familiar with proper lab techniques, you might want to use mechanical methods.
Probably, one of the best methods of removing debris is an ultrasonic cleaner.
Hey! Stoked on your purchase! Curious though, did you mean LP120?
But hope I can help answer your questions!
Hope my answers help!! Enjoy your new turntable!! Whatcha listening to??
https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU - $80, which is a bit of cash I suppose.
There are random vinyl cleaning kits and liquids and brushes etc on Amazon too.
Unfortunately, disc cleaning great ain't cheap. For so many records to do at once, with them being so rough, this thing is the only way to go. Then get a groove washer with some g2 for light cleaning before each play. Try this out.....
Spin-Clean Record Washer MKII Complete Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YXslDb39F0JD8
Invest in a spin-clean
Sounds to me like your cleaning was unsuccessful. I don't think that's poor vinyl or scratches. Sounds like a coating of gunk on the record.
Unfortunately the "standard RCA kit" (I assume you mean the "new" Discwasher) is garbage. In fact, some of that crackling may be residue from the cleaner. You need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
Meantime, try rinsing with distilled water. Might help, especially if the Discwasher fluid is the culprit.
It's sort of hard to evaluate alignment by listening, unless there's a glaring problem. And I don't hear one.
It's the [Spin Clean] (http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408325976&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean). Works pretty well overall, though I've been suspicious of the cleaning solution adding very light surface noise to records. Residue possibly, despite the company's claims otherwise. I'm currently modding a shop vac and crevice tool to use to vacuum clean the records.
Which method/tool for cleaning is better out of the following two options:
Vinyl Vac
Spin Clean
How have you calibrated the turntable? Was it professionally done? How do you clean your records? What kind of needle do you use? Do you clean that? (I recommend Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for the needle, look up youtube videos on it) Lots of factors when it comes to vinyl.
http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395173423&sr=8-3&keywords=vinyl+record+cleaner
http://www.amazon.com/21st-Century-Vinyl-Practical-Turntable/dp/B000HA4WU2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395174127&sr=8-2&keywords=setup+turntable
I keep hearing good things about the Spin-clean. There are multiple videos about how to use it correctly.
Depends on a number of things: anti-skate, tracking force, stylus health, vibrations, etc. What turntable are we using? Also the health of the record itself. If it's just dirty, that can cause skipping, but you'd notice surface noise LONG before skipping became an issue. I'd recommend one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462806668&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean Local record shop uses them, charges like $1 per record you clean. I'm sure they make a killing on that alone.
There's also the Spin Clean. As much as I want a machine, I can't bring myself to spend the money on one. That Amazon links tells me I bought it Christmas Eve 2010 and I've cleaned hundreds of records with it. And I'm still using the original brushes.
Thanks! also would this be good for a very deep clean when I bring records home that are extremely dirty or is there something else i should get/do?
http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t
I would avoid anything that can come apart and place lint on the record (as in q-tips/cotton balls). Instead, consider one of these or these. Microfiber cloth can also work well.
If you feel the need to use liquid, either search online (or on /r/vinyl) for good homemade record cleaning solutions or consider buying some. Do not use straight alcohol or non-filtered (distilled) water.
Some folks really like this as well. It's more for deeper cleaning than you may be looking for. I almost bought one, but read some not so nice reviews about it and opted to hold off.
The Onzow ZeroDust is your friend. Simply one of the best tools I've purchased since getting into this godforsaken hobby. Also, you'll want to find a way to wet clean your records. There are countless ways to get this done (Spin Clean is a good entry point, as is the Squeaky Clean, though you'll need to supply your own vacuum for the Squeaky Clean). Get the ZeroDust and one of the cleaning solutions and you'll be much, much happier. If you can afford to buy some quality inner sleeves to replace the paper ones that often come with a new record, even better.
It might have helped, but I wouldn't do it again, at least not on an important record. (Not that Solitude Standing isn't important, it's a great album.)
get a spin clean -- they work great. On sale now for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1542917761
Record cleaning machine would be a good investment for your budget. http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
Assuming your cartridge is aligned properly and the tracking force is set correctly, the distortion you hear is likely from dirty or wore out records. Upgrading the stylus on your cartridge would likely be a good, cheap improvement as well.
If you want to clean them, one good cost efficient and practical way is to get a Spin Clean. It's also a good investment for future collecting.
I use a Spin Clean (http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU). It works pretty darn well.
If it's super dirty, I wipe what I can off first, then I put it in the spin clean, rotate it 3 full times in one direction, 3 full times in the other. Then the trick is getting the water off.
I have a large stack of microfibre cloths (http://www.amazon.com/12-pack-All-purpose-Microfiber-Cleaning-Dusting) that I swap out after every couple records. I put one cloth down on top of a 'lazy susan' (it is circular and spins freely) and lay the wet record on top of the cloth. Then I use another cloth and press it down against the record and spin the lazy susan under it, and it picks up the water. (I try to make sure the nap of the cloth is lined up with the grooves). Then I use a second, drier cloth to go over it quickly and get anything left.
It's a fair amount of work but it goes quick once you have the process down, and you end up with nice clean records.
I love what you've done, but as for cleaning Spin Clean should be number one. Frankly the glue method is ridiculous if you have a lot of records and record cleaning machines are too expensive, too big, too noisy, too maintenance intestive... Spin Clean is the way to go. Cleans as good as any record cleaning machine, costs $80, and is easy to use and put away when not needed.
I have found the best way of cleaning my vinyl is with the Spin-Clean. At first I was skeptical about buying a piece of plastic at what seems to be a pretty high price. I figured I would give it a try and if it did not work I would just send it back. The Spin-Clean worked very well to my surprise. All my new and used albums gets cleaned by the Spin-Clean before it hits my turntable.
It is almost like a bath for records. The tub holds the water and the cleaning solution. The record is then spun on two rollers between two nice and tight velvet pads. The pads are just like the velvet cleaning brushes people are recommending. So when you are spinning the record in the tub both side are getting cleaned at the same time.
You would think that the record would get even more dirty by putting it in a tub of dirty water. The special formula cleaning solution binds to the dirt and sinks it to the bottom. They say that you can clean about 50 records with each tub. I find this not to be accurate, (I buy alot of used records that are dirty as sin) I get about 20-30 albums cleaned before I have to switch out the water. The solution goes a long way. You only need 3 cap fulls for each bath. I just bought a new replacement bottle (32ozs) of cleaner and it states only use one cap full for cleaning. That stuff is going to last forever.
I have tested albums by listening to them before and after and you can hear a major difference. I would 100% recommend this to any collector.
I use one of these.
Some materials are just a pain in the ass to work with. I've seen a fine powder jump out of a vial after grabbing the vial with a neoprene glove, ugh.
A few options.
Alpha emitter anti-static device - Works well, contains polonium!
Anti-static gun - Works, maybe not as well as the alpha emitter. But no polonium!!! Originally made for the vinyl record loving audiophiles.
Oscillating anti-static bars - expensive and not really conducive to a small localized area such as a TGA sample.
There seems to be quite a few other variations on that AMSTAT site (I'm not affiliated), but these are the ones I'm familiar with. My experience was mostly dealing with static in a O2/H2O free glovebox, humidity greatly reduces static.
A Zerostat gun is the only commercially available way to truly eliminate existing static completely. That or significantly increase the humidity in your room but that's no guarantee to fix the problem.Wet cleaning works pretty well but sometimes doesn't kill it totally.
Milty Zerostat 3 Anti-Static Gun, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033SHDSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-Z2lzbNW6F4SJ
It's the insides of a Zerostat:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Milty-Zerostat-3-Anti-Static-Gun/dp/B0033SHDSS
which is an anti-static gun for vinyl records.
Insides can be seen here (scroll down):
https://forums.linn.co.uk/bb/showthread.php?tid=24731
http://www.amazon.com/MILTY-ZEROSTAT-ANTI-STATIC-GUN-BLUE/dp/B0033SHDSS
if you got the cash I hear these are great, just don't shoot yourself with it
I used one of these during my previous job in a lab. It worked great for eliminating static, but may not be the solution you're looking for.
For one, the hand-held Metro Vacuum ED500 is probably one of the best investments you can make. It has worked flawlessly for me for over 2 years.
As for cleaning LCDs my personal favorite has been this
http://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Laptop-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420159104&sr=8-1&keywords=bryson+lcd
Along with a nice set of microfiber cloths
http://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-24-Pack/dp/B00ANZHG7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420159264&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+cloth+zwipes
Quick tip, if you're ever unsure whether your cloth will damage a screen or leave scratches, take it and find an old cd and try to rub the bottom of the CD as hard as you can. If you see more scratches then before, I would avoid using it, but if it comes out scratch-free then its safe to use.
I have a Spin Clean, which gets mentioned a lot. I'm seriously underwhelmed by it. The method detailed above is way more effective, and a heck of a lot cheaper. I also get really good results from my "In The Groove" sticky roller, which I almost never see mentioned here.
> There were certain biodegradable plastic inner sleeves used in the 1980s
Interesting! I picked up a copy of "This is the Moody Blues" from a flea market recently. Looks like it was produced in the mid 70s. I don't think it was a biodegradeable sleeve, but the inner sleeves WERE all plastic (of some variety).
When I inspected the records, it looked like they were in awful condition. Then I gently wiped at the surface of the record and low and behold it was a just some super fine dust that had rubbed off those old plastic sleeves! I grabbed the discs, brought them home, and cleaned them with my trusty In The Groove. After a cleaning those records shined!
I replaced those awful sleeves and have been enjoying the records ever since. I'd never seen or heard of these plastic sleeves or this awful dust they left before.
Here's my system:
Deep Cleaning
spray this solution on your records and wipe clean with a microfiber cloth
Wet a different microfiber cloth with just distilled water and wipe the clean record down.
Less Deep Cleaning
I use an RCA Disc washer from the 1970s that looks similar to this.
Dust and static before playing
In the groove record cleaner for removing the odd hair or dust particle
AudioQuest brush for removing a little static before playing.
Stylus
My shure M97xe came with a little brush to clean the stylus, but I know mobile fidelity sells a stylus cleaning brush that looks good enough.
Edit:
1. Make sure you're not putting a clean record into a dirty sleeve. 2. Try not to spray your labels when deep cleaning, but a little bit of overspray has never damaged any of mine.
So, for light cleaning and pre-heavy cleaning, I go with this guy. It does a decent job at surface cleaning.
If I want to get a little bit deeper, especially if it's a used album I've not yet personally cleaned, I use this. It's an affordable way to wet clean your records.
I've been using this system for a while, and it works well. I was able to restore a discounted Blonde on Blonde to VG condition.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MG9YYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427659444&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=in+the+grove+record+cleaner
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I was noticing some clouding on my lenses last week and some residue building up in the corners, I figured I must have rubbed them too hard with my microfiber cloth and pushed oils into the cracks. One cleaning with a Lens Pen and everything cleared up like they were brand new. I highly recommend owning one.
As long as it's a microfiber lens cleaning cloth, you'll be ok. You get these with sunglasses, prescription glasses, the CV1 Rift, etc. They look like this
I don't remember it coming with one either. It's possible I missed it as well :D
​
Assuming you're talking about cleaning the lenses, any microfiber cleaning cloth should work fine. Here's an example of some: https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Cleaning-Eyeglasses-Glasses-Screen/dp/B00NR9S3EQ
​
Hope this helps. :)
https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Cleaning-Eyeglasses-Glasses-Screen/dp/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1504727286&sr=8-13&keywords=microfiber+cleaning+cloth
That's why I bought 6!. I keep 1 in a car, 1 in house, 1 jacket pocket (and I proly lost other 3)
they sell cleaning solutions specifically made for monitors and TV's
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM
They don't work for all types of screen, but this stuff has worked great for all of my screens (TV or monitor).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f6hWDbQP6J2MX
I find this stuff works pretty damn good. I use it on my monitors, phones, etc always get them looking like new.
Otherwise, yes water should do okay.
i got one of these for xmas and it's great: https://smile.amazon.com/Vinyl-Vac-Record-Vacuum-Attaches/dp/B014X2SXY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493767166&sr=8-1&keywords=record+vacuum
I use a $4 plastic oil pan, a $5 Shur-Line Edger (refills cost $2.50 for 2 pack), TergiKleen record cleaner concentrate (used by library of congress / makes 30 gallons / $20 but is basically a life time supply), distilled water, 3 spray bottles (distilled water, reg strength, extra strength), and microfiber cloths from Costco (which I rotate through, and repurpose to wash my car). They way I do it, they come out amazingly clean. Wish I had a vacuum and I'd think I have perfection(*ish).
If you are going to stay with your method I read only use Dawn Unscented. Alcohol is frowned upon even though it's been used in a fare number of past cleaning solutions. If you think about it it doesn't make sense anyway. As the alcohol evaporates the dirt in the fluid is just recondencing back onto the record (the dirt isn't evaporating).
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Archivist-TergiKleen-Tergitol-based-Concentrate/dp/B019YI38Z2
mix with ddistilled water. Better yet, but a bottle of tergitol or triton x100
You dilute it so much that it costs practically nothing. I dilute 1ml of triton into 1L of water.
Not sure how pure tergikleen is, but I'm sure it still ends up cheap
http://www.loc.gov/preservation/care/record.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019YI38Z2/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492483554&sr=sr-1&keywords=tergitol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161039100163?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
They are more or less the same. You can buy this one and spend the change on the stylus cleaner
Here is a Spin Clean knock off. Half the price but looks the same pretty much:
https://www.amazon.com/Record-Cleaning-System-Solution-Included/dp/B01GOOAEVK/ref=sr_1_42?ie=UTF8&qid=1519320429&sr=8-42&keywords=vinyl+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Record-Cleaning-System-Solution-Included/dp/B01GOOAEVK/ works for me just fine, though I'm by no means a vinyl pro - someone else might be able to provide you with more info.
It should go without saying that you need the right care and calibration tools to make your day to day listening the best. This is what I use for those purposes;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KR15HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2AMSYS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HRJ9NAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAFG8EG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ERPWAK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GOOAEVK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Of these things, the OnZow is probably the most important, along with the Studebaker record cleaner. If you buy used records a cleaner is a MUST, and even new out of the wrapper records have crap on them. The OnZow gets the junk off your needle, which is a must.
AFTER those things are taken care of, cart or preamp. Both have the most immediate effect on the sound, presuming you are playing quality good condition records.
There's also vinyl styl cleaners that are a pretty good value.
AudioQuest Anti-Static Record Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XK9V3KB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dy5ezbEXH923Z
I'll second this, as I'm really digging it lately too. It's basically a sticky roller that picks up all dust/fuzz/etc in its path. Of course, it isn't intended to replace wet cleaning, but seems great for light maintenance.
Here's a link:
http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Groove-Record-Cleaner/dp/B004MG9YYQ
I like a microfiber cloth. It works super well, cheap, easy to clean.
They do cause static in low humidity environments, so a quick wipe with a fabric softener sheet takes that out.
If you have the scratch, however, this brush kicks all sorts of ass. It's not really a brush, but it wont static up your records and cleaning it is a cinch. IMO it works better than any brush.
hm, there is another type of brush ... a velvet brush http://www.amazon.com/Pfanstiehl-Record-Cleaning-Kit/dp/B0042ASW5O/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1427812365&sr=8-10&keywords=velvet+record+brush. It is good for wet cleaning . There's also sticky tack cleaner (no experience) http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Groove-Record-Cleaner/dp/B004MG9YYQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_p_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QB8H8EBMR5D3RMXVY01 and classic discwasher brush system http://www.amazon.com/RCA-RD-1006-Discwasher-Record-System/dp/B000KMZKTO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_p_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QB8H8EBMR5D3RMXVY01
I use a carbon fiber brush, but I just hold it in place so it only goes with the grooves. I then use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MG9YYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427659444&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=in+the+grove+record+cleaner to clean up the line of dust left after I pick up the brush. Works well and doesn't really add static as long as you don't push down on the roller.
Yes, happened to me on my gearVR, I would just get a lens pen instead of the microfiber cloth.
e: here
Can you show us an example of one please? Is it like this: https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486765079&sr=8-3&keywords=lenspen
For anyone looking, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pEnozbMHNYGN2) lenspen is on sale for $6.99 with free shipping through prime
What do you think about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L6IUHXU/ref=crt_ewc_title_srh_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Can I use these to clean my records?
http://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Cleaning-Eyeglasses-Glasses-Screen/dp/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464352944&sr=8-10&keywords=microfiber+cloth
This one
https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Cleaning-Eyeglasses-Glasses-Screen/dp/B00NR9S3EQ/ or https://www.amazon.com/50-Pack-SimpleHouseware-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B01NAAJLVG/
?
I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Oculus Rift Facial Interface & Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/
Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx
I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.
This shit works wonders....
​
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=screen+mom&qid=1566829568&s=gateway&sr=8-3
i have been using this which has been working well
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01054S5FM
I recommend this. good cleaner.
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM
Great clip, just saying though
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM
I recommend this ... been using for a while now
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491165254&sr=8-1&keywords=screen+mom
By far the best thing I've ever used. Leaves zero streaks and I mean ZERO. It looks like how it came out the box. Comes with a microfiber cloth too.
I agree, anything with chemicals or cleaning products I would probably keep away from screens. The clorox wipes that /u/GTFr0 linked seems like they would work good on keyboards, mice and any plastic housing of computers. For Screens I have found the ScreenMom cleaner works really well, although It probably won't disinfect anything. Typically I use Lysol wipes for standard user computers.
https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/guide-creating-a-custom-ssdt-for-usbinjectall-kext.211311/
and
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM
Screen Cleaner Kit - Best for LED & LCD TV, Computer Monitor, Laptop, and iPad Screens – Contains Over 1,572 Sprays in each Large 16 ounce Bottle – includes Premium Microfiber Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XZWJzbZD54V22
Just use something similar to this. Work's great on my monitors and tv's.
3488 reviews on Amazon and still 5 stars: https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=lp_12726172011_1_1?srs=12726172011&ie=UTF8&qid=1520988464&sr=8-1
I have it too. Highly recommended.
Oops, just saw your other comment. Be sure to follow the instructions exactly. It's not like other cleaning instructions that you can ignore.
im trying to find something that will get rid of fingerprints on my monitor. i bought these wipes but they just seem to smudge them even more. i found this on amazon and was wondering if this would work decently. i have a 24 inch dell E2414H monitor.
This stuff is great for all gadgets:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZoeKzbNWMZCRM
I use Screen Mom. https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B01054S5FM/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01054S5FM&pd_rd_r=RHBEE2XTV9NGJY1A8MWM&pd_rd_w=EpXjC&pd_rd_wg=Asx2p&psc=1&refRID=RHBEE2XTV9NGJY1A8MWM
You're not supposed to use cleaning products with alcohol/ammonia in them because they could potentially strip anti-reflective coatings or cause clouding or other damage. Water and a regular cloth should work just fine (no paper towels), but I think microfiber cloth is also preferable to avoid scratches.
I'm sure there are other fine similar options, but I bought a product called screen mom from amazon a few years ago and it works really well, plus came with a microfiber cloth. Obligatory I'm not associated with this company at all - I just have used the product multiple times and can confirm it does what it says it does and works really well.
Now whether or not you could use windex on your screen and get away with it I have no idea, I prolly just read the same warnings you did and rather than risking it or researching more I took the easy route and spent $15 on a big bottle of the stuff. Considering how much I spent on my monitor not taking the risk and having the peace of mind was worth it to me, also that bottle is gonna last me forever so for my intents a one time payment basically. It's worked great on phones, laptops, tvs etc too. Again any similar non-alcohol/ammonia based solution should work.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01054S5FM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517843009&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lcd+monitor+screen+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=51MxRzeyNaL&ref=plSrch
I ordered this recently to clean my PG278Q. Worked great. Highly recommend.
I use these things for removing wax and dirt from the AirPods and case, plus Q-Tips and this cleaning solution for the barrels of the AirPods. The solution along with 6"x6" microfiber towels is also great for cleaning the screens on my iPhone, iPad, Watch, and all of my TVs.
I use this kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01054S5FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought some too and it works for me, as well as other tech stuff i have with a screen.
As it has been mentioned, and also even in the directions for this stuff, make sure the screen is cool.
What about this? https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Vac-Record-Vacuum-Attaches/dp/B014X2SXY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484781005&sr=8-1&keywords=vinyl+vacuum
Are you aware of this thing? https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Vac-33-Record-Attaches/dp/B014X2SXY0 It's not terribly expensive and would probably work better than a piece of velvet with a hole in it.
Best I could find it's not the same brand, but it's the exact same product.
Trying to decide on a record cleaner (and hopefully kill static). The obvious choice is the Spin Clean, but I've heard that some people have had issues with it and the brushes, leaving surface noise on the records. I also found this, which is very similar:
https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Groove-Record-Washer/dp/B01M0LRLM5/ref=pd_sbs_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M0LRLM5&pd_rd_r=B5896DCX415ECAK13EDM&pd_rd_w=KiFln&pd_rd_wg=WP8Yn&psc=1&refRID=B5896DCX415ECAK13EDM
I like the fact that it has a drying rack too. Has anyone used one of these? And how does it stack up against the Spin Clean?
I was also looking at one of these vacuum things, but I don't know how thorough it would be compared to a wet cleaning.
https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Vac-Record-Vacuum-Attaches/dp/B014X2SXY0/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1492965447&sr=8-15&keywords=spin+clean
I bought this record cleaning brush and this record cleaning kit. I haven't cleaned the stylus since I just got the table. I ordered the Onzow Zerodust. As far as cleaning the skip issue on the record, you think a RCM would work? What about this?
The fact that the 2M Red cartridge tracks deeper is something I didn't know and that helps a lot!
Instead of a RCM, buy this and a cheap shop vac, if you don't have one already. Find any old broken turntable from Goodwill and use it as a lazy suzan. This setup works even better than an RCM. Make your own cleaning fluid using 0.8x distilled water, 0.2% isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher), and 0.004x surfactant (I use one tiny drop of dish soap per 250ml). Use a cheap brush to spread the fluid, I like this one. The SP-3 is a legendary integrated amplifier. A phono stage is not a complex circuit. Much like modern DACs, hugely overpriced units are a profit center for companies marketing to those who don't know what's going on inside the chassis.
this thing called Tergitol seems to have good Amazon user feedback.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019YI38Z2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492858492&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tergitol&dpPl=1&dpID=51udtdfw5zL&ref=plSrch
I haven’t listened to the clear pressing yet but I’ve had issues with static/skipping on IAAN and Deja - they all went away after I purchased this (below) and started using it to clean off my vinyl before (and after..) playing. Not sure if you have one or something similar but it works wonders!
Audio-Technica AT6011 Anti-Static Record Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GE1ZOPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SGc.zbECS8PAC
What's the best way to make sure my record collection lasts a long time? Is it fine to just store them on a shelf as is in a cool area? Or is it advised to store each in their own polypropylene sleeves like these here? New to collecting so I want to make sure I'm doing everything right.
Also cleaning. Am I good with just one of those brushes like this? Or do I need some spray too?
Hi!
If you are worried about the brand, for $15 I have the Audio Technica version and have had no problems with it in over a year now.
​
But like someone else said, its probably not any different than the one you are looking at.
Interesting find on amazon yesterday. This looks exactly like a spin-wash, significantly cheaper. Anyone heard of it?
I've actually heard this one (basically a clone of a Spin Clean) works great
I have this cheap knock off from Amazon and it works great for me. Cleans the records. I fill the bay with distilled water and put some record cleaning solution on the pads.
Anyone have thoughts on a knock off like this one
If $50 is more in your price range, my neighbor has one of these and likes it. http://amzn.to/2hmKXSS - and there are other sellers there selling it for a few bucks less (about $44).
Thoughts on vinyl-styl washer vs spin-clean? The vinyl-style seems like a better product, and it costs less than spin-clean, but spin clean seems like it's far more popular. Not sure if I'm missing something important, though.
https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Groove-Record-Washer/dp/B01M0LRLM5
I use this brush to clean them and it works well.
After a wet clean, also use a record brush - I spin outward to get the dust off the record, then a second go round inward touching the spindle to discharge static.
I recently went to using this brush and no longer have the occasional static after playing a side.
However if you're in a really dry climate, you'll need to go to a Milty.
old style
new style
Finally, I want to buy some vinyl care products. Of course like the wiki tells us I should get this anti static brush, and I want to get a stylus gauge. Is this one fine?
I'm getting an M3 delivered tomorrow, given to me by a friend who is clearing an estate. I locked down the tone generator and when I did, I started it up. There was a whirring, but no sound and I suspect lack of use is the issue. I have oil on hand - is DeOxit something I should do regardless of whether oiling it starts it up? If so, is this the stuff?
As an aside, if you don't already have a can of Deoxit or a similar product, now would be a good time. You use it to clean your switch and pots. It will lubricate and clean them and get them all moving properly and quietly. Its very easy to do.
That being said...Have you contacted the sales person and asked them directly if it was a floor model or B-stock? No one else can answer that for you. Does your invoice say anything regarding the status of the guitar (new/used/bstock) Most places that sell online that fit your description absolutely care about this kind of thing. Maybe you got the discount due to it being open box. If PRS has a serial # option on their site, you could find out what year your guitar was made, maybe its a previous year model.
None. You'll strip off the tinning, expose the bare copper and make the oxidation problem even worse.
I'd suggest a pencil eraser or Caig Deoxit.
Caig DeOxit - for cleaning contacts in your aging electronic devices.
Some of this stuff will take care of the scratchy knobs.
I would recommend a real electronics contact cleaner, such as DeOxit: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
Definitely get the 5%, the 100% is meant to be used in more bulk/professional environments.
Is this the kind of thing you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
Deoxit is an electronic cleaner.
http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
I found this one: https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
Source: https://community.ubnt.com/t5/The-Lounge/How-to-clean-contacts-on-ethernet-port/td-p/1638845
Heres what we use to clean audio patch panels... spray it on move the jack in and out about a dozen times wipe excess with a cloth.
https://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cleaning-Solution-Spray/dp/B0002BBV4G
The needle and cartridge might be avaliable, is there a number on either of them? NeedleDoctor helped me find a new cart for a console for a very good price.
Belt's shouldn't be too hard, you could order a few cheap ones online to guess and check.
The nobs themselves are probably okay, you probably need to spray some contact cleaner. Try Deox-it, or search amazon for "contact cleaner" pull the nobs off and spray a good amount in there whilst turning.
If that doesnt help, disassemble and look at the knobs themselves, they're probably just standard potentiometers. You'll have to hunt for them, it's not like theres a source for parts for this thing, you're going to need to work hard yourself to find substitutions and retrofit.
DeOxit is popular among vintage home audio collectors, however I'd guess that a pot in a car audio amp is not quite vintage enough to have exposed wipers. I'd replace it, personally.
A desoldering pump/wick is highly recommended.
First off, why not try something like this. If it works, you'd preserve the functionality.
And someone else can chime in here if this is a bad idea, but it seems to me like hooking up a multimeter to the pot should let you see what the resistance you'll need is.
Also, get an electronic contact cleaner such as DeoxIT. It does wonders for things like this to car battery terminals and everything in between.
okay, here is the deal in case you don't know. For future reference, because it will happen again eventually, buy some Caig Deoxit 100. It is a tiny bottle it is like $15 it will last you forever. Easiest way to do this is to put a couple drops of the stuff into the base of the toggle switch/pickup selector. (lay guitar flat, being careful not get it on your guitars finish / have a moist and dry cloth handy). Let it soak into the toggle for a bit . then work the switch through all of its positions up and down like 50 times just back and forth. Switches and pots get corroded quite easily. and that is how you clean and lubricate them.
here is a link to amazon so you can see what i am talking about.
http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1310675904&sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2/ref=sr_1_federatedaps1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411861318&sr=8-2&keywords=deoxit
Wow, swapping stepper, you did go deep.
I (~ahem~) assume you unplugged / replugged all the connectors on the motherboard?
Also check the screws are snug on all the terminal strips (AC cord out, duh)?
We've had a lot of reports of that, mine had two that were loose.
I'm also a big fan of DeOxit for the connectors.
Stolen shamelessly from another post:
Yeah, I always check every plug and connector and use a tiny bit of DeoxIt on every contact in the thing. prevents wonky problems from a poor connection! Highly recommended
Here it is on Amazon, there's a Gold formula specifically for Gold contacts, this is for tinned contacts. They also make an outdoor version. Every contact in my house has it. (Remotes, Audio / video plugs, even extension cords) Expensive, but a small bottle lasts forever. You just lightly dampen the surface, not wet.
Tinned: https://smile.amazon.com/CAIG-Laboratories-D100L-2DB-Electric-Cleaner/dp/B0002BBVN2
Gold: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015A7CYG
Keep us in the loop, OK?
PuterPro
Pretty much. I believe mine is actually this one https://www.amazon.com/Booster-Electric-Connection-Enhancer-Lubricant/dp/B0002BBVN2 - but i assume most any electric contact cleaner would suffice.
Yeesh, bad advice here. Alcohol solution is not your friend. Not for long term use anyway.
Soap and water works just fine, on a Qtip. If you got some really bad pins, use some de-oxit solution: this is what I usually use.
You probably have some build up from arcing and general oxidation on your contacts. Clean them and try to fire it again. I highly recommend getting some DeoxIT and applying it to your contacts and even your battery terminals. It helps keep things clean and performing well, and reduces damage from arcing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_267_of_11?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WY5FYSTXXSWTAP6ZJRH5
The brush applicator is perfect for use with vaping gear.
Mechs need to be cleaned regularly. On a nice one like the spade I would be doing this once a week if you want to keep it in top shape and maintain its value.
BTW nice combo! Love the radius v2. One of my fave attys currently.
try this
I suggest upgrading your CPU cooler to something possibly like the Cooler Master Hyper Evo, use some ArctiClean to clean up the CPU before the install after you remove the old cooler. I suggest using coffee filters to clean it up because they are lint free and work very well. You can find tutorials online on how to install a new cooler if you have any issues with it. You can either use the thermal paste the cooler comes with or get some Arctic Silver 5, I think Radioshack repackages it and sells it.
I also suggest setting it up so the fan is pushing air through the cooler towards the back of the case and if you can afford it, get a second fan for the other side and do a push/pull config and that will help temps a lot.
Or if you have enough room and want a good solution to lower CPU temps I suggest getting something like the Cooler Master Seidon 120XL. I have one in my build and helps the CPU temps since my case is so small
Also get some cable ties, that shit is a mess
Push-pull config on a NZXT Kraken X61 is so overkill. That 280mm radiator and variable speed pump is more than you need to cool basically any CPU. It won't help your GPU's temps much if at all and your CPU will only drop 1-5 degrees.
My personal suggestion is a bit crazy but if you have the budget I suggest water cooling your GPU's.
https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Kraken-Bracket-RL-KRG10-B1/dp/B00ITTFO8M - $30x2 for the brackets.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY - $60x2 for the coolers.
$90 per card and your load temps will never peak over 60 degrees under load unless you live in a hot climate.
You might need some accessories like thermal paste, cleaning solution, and fan adapters if you don't have this stuff laying around.
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste/dp/B000OGX5AM $7.43x1
https://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08 $7.84x1
https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-CA-PWM-02-Adapter-Sleeved-Cooler/dp/B005ZKZEQA $7x2
If you buy a proper tool and carefully follow the directions, slim to none. Just read reviews on the tool first, you want lots of happy customers, not some noname piece of plastic. And yes, you're gonna spend some money on this, don't try to do it cheap, you will regret it. Plan on spending $40-$100 total...
Now, full disclosure... I have been out of the delid/OC game for awhile. My latest CPU was the 4770k, so take this (possibly outdated) advice for what you will. That said, my delidded 4770k is still going strong to this day and has been very reliable. Mine was one of the first generations that had the crappy TIM, and I absolutely HATED IT.
After delidding, I personally took a (VERY) dull flathead screwdriver and gently scraped away the old silicone sealant, the idea being that with it gone, the heatspreader sits lower and has better contact. You don't need it perfectly clean/gone, but get most of it off.
As far as thermal compound, yes, any paste can be used. But I absolutely recommend liquid ultra. If you're gonna delid... you want the best. This stuff is basically metal, so it has the best thermal conductivity out there. The only downside is that it is electrically conductive, so please be careful.
Liquid ultra includes a scrubber (to remove the old thermal compound, you may also want some solvent for this) and a brush to apply the new stuff. I cut the brush with scissors to make it smaller, which helped. You want to use a VERY small amount, and evenly apply it over the whole die. When I say thin layer, I mean THIN. You can look up a guide to see how much to use. If you over-apply, you'll get worse performance and possibly kill your CPU when the excess runs off the die and onto your voltage regulators, or other sensitive components found on the CPU. Remember, when this stuff heats up, it behaves less like a paste and more like a liquid, so you only want it on and immediately around the die.
At this point, you are done. You could purchase some silicone sealant and reseal the CPU, but that's not necessary. I just dropped my CPU into the socket, gently/evenly set the IHS on the die, and closed the socket latch. If you never reopen the latch, you never have to reapply the liquid ultra. If you think you'll have to open the latch often, maybe sealant is for you. I personally never do, so I didn't need to seal mine.
My 4770k running at 4.7 GHz runs at 28c idle, 67c full load at 1.36 volts. Before delid, I would've been at 99c full load. Huge improvement. It's a little scary, but highly recommended! You'll be fine!
I use this kit to clean my CPU/GPU and Heatsinks http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08
As for #3, would also recommend this for better cleaning than rubbing alcohol.
So he just filled the socket with thermal paste and didn't put the CPU in?
If so, he's lucky. PGA sockets can be cleaned out much easier than LGA with some isopropyl...though for it being in the socket, he'd maybe be better off getting some dedicated cleaner. The good news is that the stuff with the 212 appears to be non-conductive, so if there's still some in the socket, it won't short circuit anything.
You can’t buy rubbing alcohol from a gas station or Drug store?
If you’re going to buy something just buy this:
ArctiClean 60ml Kit (includes 30ml ArctiClean 1 and 30ml ArctiClean 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0CbSAbWBZ6QDW
Arctic Silver makes thermal paste remover. Most of the time it's pointless as you can simply scrape the paste off of a flat CPU, but in this case I highly recommend it. Here it is on Amazon. You can also get it from Radio Shack if you don't want to wait for shipping. If you don't do this, though, be sure to use 99% Isopropanol. You do not want any water in there.
http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007TOR08/ref=pd_bxgy_pc_img_y is this worth anything?
I used these and it cleaned great. Just follow exact what manual say and you will have no problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Arctic clean shit works really well. I used no alc for this. Just warmed up the xbox, let the artic sit on it for a min, wiped up
https://i.imgur.com/fPHB6bZ.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007TOR08/
it's fine and normal, just clean it well. I suggest this cleaner
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Here is a copy of the original post:
> Hey! I buy and sell video games on eBay and have been meaning to buy a disc cleaner for a while, as sometimes I come across discs that look nasty but work, or even don't work, but can be fixed. I'm looking at this one right now, we used to have one at the shop I worked at and it worked very well:
JFJ Easy Pro Video Game, CD, DVD, Blu-Ray Repair Machine 110V
I wanted to get a refill on the compounds used for cleaning, which is $20
I just recently purchased a large lot of Xbox 360 games from someone locally and they're very scratched, but almost all of them still work, they just need polishing. Now seems to be the time to buy one, but I'm short on funds! Will pay back $175 on the 27th of January! Thanks so much!
E transfer is preferred so I don't have to wait for PayPal to transfer to my credit card so I can use it for Amazon, since they don't use PayPal
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I bought this last year and repaired about 200 old DVD-R discs I had for the Xbox 1. They all repaired fine, and it was easy as hell. There were some discs in REALLY shitty shape too.
http://www.amazon.com/JFJ-Easy-Universal-Repair-Machine/dp/B000RBE4B8
And destroy your disc. For a limited number of discs its besto have them done professionally. If you have bulk, a JFJ Pro is probably the cheapest you'd want to go.
>What are you going to play first? R4 was a great game. I remem
every disk i have is hard to reading because have a lot of scratches, look it that
https://www.amazon.com/JFJ-Video-Blu-Ray-Repair-Machine/dp/B000RBE4B8
I've had personal experience with this machine but I can tell you that it isn't as good as some of the old tanks that they used to make. Best results I usually get on one of these is very close to full shine, but slightly hazy. Plays well, which I suppose is the important part.
With any surfacer, you need to have a stack of games that you don't care about to practice with and get a feeling for it. On this one, I use the soft (1200 grit) sandpaper for 20 seconds, and a buffing pad with the white compound for one minute (use it sparingly after you break the pad in). Then I wipe with a lint free cloth, spray with the anti static spray, and wipe again with another lint free cloth. The thing is, what works for me, does not work others, and vice versa.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RBE4B8/ref=s9_simh_gw_g23_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C3NFDBXXN52AHYN056EY&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=14bf09e4-93c8-43ff-8639-e7979e7d1787&pf_rd_i=desktop if you have a lot of cd's like that i recommend this or buy another disk.
I've used http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404873438&sr=8-1&keywords=Skip+Dr back in the day. It does work most of the time. It's essentially very fine grit sandpaper and water that rubs it in a perfect circular pattern.
What about a SkipDr?
or just get a small hand held disc resurfacer
http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1394724507&sr=1-1
I've had generally good results with the old-fashioned hand-cranked SkipDr. Most recently I picked up a copy of Virtua Striker 2 ver. 2000.1 for £2 from a local shop which got as far as creating a VMU save file before dumping me back to the BIOS menu. A quick spin with the SkipDr resulted in a disc that works perfectly but looks like this (lots of fine scuff marks from the centre of the disc to the edge) which shows that it's been run through a cheap tool rather than properly resurfaced. If I'd tried to get a refund after this I might have had problems as they would be able to tell I'd done this (and potentially made the issue worse) which is why I only recommend it on cheap games.
I did the same thing to Sims 3. Oh the humanity! Anyway, this worked great. Took a while though.
That's a pretty easy fix. Skip Dr, sucka
Is it a circular scratch that goes all the way around the disc? That's what happens when the read head crashes into the disc while it's spinning at high speed. It will render the entire track unreadable, and it's really difficult to fix. You can try one of these, but don't expect miracles. It basically polishes off a layer of the polycarbonate. It works fine for minor scratches, but deep ones are pretty much a lost cause.
Try to find one of these, or see if the game store has one to use.
https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC
Or you can do it yourself... http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414775217&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+fixer
You might try something along the lines of this scratch remover: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_n95vub0R0903W (sorry cant remember how to link on mobile.) I however have not had much luck with these. You might just be better off buying the song from itunes, or acquiring it by other means.
If you want to you can try something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC
I have used it before on some discs that were scratched and it made them playable again.
One thing you want to check is if the scratch is also through the reflective layer. Hold the disc up to a light source and if you can see through the disc (I'm talking about the shiny area) that there probably is holes in the reflective layer. That usually means the disc is damaged beyond fixable. But sometimes if it is small enough loss the error correcting parts of the game can skip over that.
You could buy a resurfacer for a reasonable price: https://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AH6Z7M1EF4BMDTB92MAY
Even inexpensive things like this have a decent 70-80% success rate in my experience. You can get much better gear for repairing discs, though.
>http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1342792444&sr=1-1
Maybe?
Me imagino que estas buscando algun lugar que te haga resurfacing, dudo que haya mercado para que alguien compre una maquina profesional (tipo JFJ o mas grande, se que las cadenas de videojuegos en EEUU/UK tienen maquinas profesionales para limpiar y revender discos usados) o sea que lo que te queda es importar de alguna forma un Skip Doctor, que hace mas o menos lo mismo que esas maquinas (con resultados peores, obvio, pero es algo) o probar con algun fluido para pulir, o alguna otra solucion casera (he escuchado pasta de dientes, bananas, etc, nunca probe con nada de eso)
Protip: Si pones el disco a contraluz, y ves líneas/puntos donde pasa la luz, el disco es basura, ni te calientes en intentar arreglarlo.
This is the one I have, works like a charm
I picked up a PS2 disc at Goodwill, but the console wouldn't read it (it gave a "insert Playstation compatible disc" error). I bought one of these things on Amazon and it worked like a charm:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015ACUKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Took all of 2 minutes to use. You spray on a little bit of the distilled water / alcohol mixture from the spray bottle (which is included), pop the disc in, turn the crank, and it buffs out the scratches. There are Youtube videos if you're curious. Definitely worth trying.
This is the classic answer for your problem. That, or find a movie rental place that has a disk buffer they'll let you use.
Prices on a lot of games seems to have swung up the last couple of years (SNES and GCN, especially, from what I've seen). I felt ripped-off buying Metal Warriors on the SNES for about $40, around 3 years ago. It's just the way things go.
Well, you could just get a brush: www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G/
Or you could go all out and get a Spin Clean: http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_z
Or a Disc washer: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-RD-1006-Discwasher-Record-System/dp/B000KMZKTO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411660898&sr=1-1&keywords=record+cleaner
There's plenty of options, but at the least I recommend a carbon fiber brush.
The experience has been good overall.
The built in preamp is good but the level is still not as high as you might like, so in the Sonos settings the line input level for the connect has to be more or less all the way to the top (resulting level is loud enough at ~2/3 volume for the two gen1 Play5s to fill the combined lounge/dining/kitchen area). Not a problem at all for how I want to use it, and turned up unbearably loud the sound is still really clear (definitely recommend cleaning your records before each play, I use a carbon fibre brush like this).
Sonos' detection of the line in seems to be good too, switching the turntable on reliably turns the Play5s to the streamed line input. No problems with dropouts with uncompressed audio (that said, the connect and left channel are both hardwired, and the right channel is using my WiFi, not SonosNet).
I'm definitely considering a Sub now given the size of the room, but it's hard to decide between it and more speakers to just have music in more rooms.
One of these works wonders
I'm not a fan of just the brushes with just carbon fiber bristles.
I just purchased my first vinyl and audio system. Waiting for it all to arrive but is there anything I need to do to the record itself before playing it? Some people seem to wash it/clean it first even with brand new vinyl. I bought a Vinyl Buddy. I've also heard this Hunt Carbon Fiber Brush is a must have but I've just spent a ton on this equipment so not ready to buy that yet.
Any other process to do before playing a brand new record? I got mofi sleeves because I heard the regular ones can damage the vinyl.
Like this?
Been using this one for a year, carbon. Hasn't shed a single hair.
http://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Styl-Static-Carbon-Record/dp/B00C4UBQ2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419652154&sr=8-1&keywords=vinyl+styl+carbon+fiber
More money:
http://www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419652193&sr=8-1&keywords=hunt+eda
Some great headphone.
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B000ULAP4U
Record brush
http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-LP-record-clean-brush/dp/B0006VMBHI
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001A9ST2G/
Record Cleaner
http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM
Get yourself a good record cleaning brush if you don't have one. Avoid the "Vinyl Style" brand. I recommend the Hunt EDA Mark 6: https://www.amazon.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/dp/B001A9ST2G
Bonus that it's on sale!
Google homemade recipes if you want to go that route. Also you should use a brush before each play. I prefer the Hunt. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/social/swf/B001A9ST2G/o=ShareProduct/ref=tsm_1_aw_swf_d_sp?vs=1
Ooh la la! Impress all of your friends with this Mr. Fancy Pants record brush. The ladies will want to be with you and the guys will want to be you. Check the graph! https://camelcamelcamel.com/Hunt-Carbon-Fiber-Record-Brush/product/B001A9ST2G?active=price_amazon&context=popular
Something like this? Also, I think the shavings are being created from taking the top off and putting it back on so I don't know if the cleaner will help with that. Seems like a great way to clean your mod though!
I own a game store right now, and to go beyond your methods, an Ultrasonic cleaner can work miracles. I have a Crest that is a bit out of the price range of most hobbyists, but small jewelry cleaners like this will clean PCBs with even heavy corrosion easily. Can use a formulated mix for PCBs, or just stick to 99% iso alcohol (turn off the heat setting if you use iso). And obviously remove the game from the shell first :) Had a copy of Demon's Crest come through that had no visible pins (that badly corroded) and after 10 minutes in the cleaner it worked perfectly. It also stops future corrosion. Pretty neat machine.
A lot of people (especially DIYers) use ultrasonic cleaners like this one. there are videos on youtube of juice in these being vibrated to goodness.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner like this. Pretty low effort, but manages to get the junk out of all of the little crevices. I wouldn't recommend using it for really delicate jewelry, but your Anatometal and Maria Tash stuff will be fine.
Ultrasonic cleaners
http://www.amazon.com/Sonic-Wave-Professional-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/sim/B002A8IDQI/2
For your standard light dust removal I love the classic discwasher like this one. RCA has since bought out discwasher and uses a different tan color material on the bottom which doesn't work nearly as well as the old black felt. If you want to clean records that have actual buildup on them you could look into a record cleaning machine, but those can get pretty pricey. There are some DIY was to clean off record that you could look into too.
As far as damage goes, you're mostly looking for scuffs and scratches. If there's a scratch on a record you can usually tell how bad it it if it crosses an area of deadwax, like the small lines between songs. If the scratch doesn't show up on the dead wax, then it likely won't affect playback too much. It can be hard to tell by just looking at records. i have some that look pretty beat up, but play well and some that look pristine, but have places where they skip. If you can listen at the store before you buy that's the best way to judge.
https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=record+cleaner&qid=1564280275&s=gateway&sprefix=record+c&sr=8-4
Is this the one you’re referring to? If so how have you liked it? Any thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495459699&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+clean
This works and is cheap until you can afford the lowest end wet-vac system. I only use it on used albums and then generally only once. I save up and do about 50 at a time.
This is the one I was recommended and bought. It does a really nice job if you follow the instructions.
I should also note that if you're record player isn't grounded it can cause static as well. But if your concern is the actual records, my advice would be to either buy a spin Clean or some other cleaning kit, and proper storage with anti-static sleeves.
Above all else, you have to realize that most records are NOT that fragile. They can take a pretty heavy beating. We do tend to discourage that and keep everything in pristine condition here because it's just bad form, but they wont be as easily damaged by light scratches as some would have you believe.
Indeed, minus some great luck, finding a killer vintage bargain is much easier said than done these days. $300 is still the vintage money to be comparing, since the Ortofon 2M Blue is going to cost north of $200 and anything vintage is likely to need at least a new stylus. The RT85 is a true bargain, considering you get a Stereophile Recommended cart with a nude elliptical stylus. That's really tough to beat.
I know the Vanatoo T1s with their PR design and agree you're in good shape for now in a moderately sized room. If you want to upgrade the system later, you can of course, but if you go this route you'll likely be set for good turntable-wise.
Edit: One thing I'd add is a Spin-Clean record washing system. I've been in plenty of forum brawls over this vs. an RCM record cleaning machine, but to my experience it does as good of a job. Many years ago I had a VPI HW-16.0 and hated the noise, the dog hated the noise, and it was a pain in the ass to use. The Spin-Clean allows easier batch cleaning since there's no overheating (which caused me to lose the VPI), liquid leaks, etc. I made the "downgrade" around ten years ago and have never looked back.
I'm sure it works well, but the price is just ridiculous. I have a feeling it would be a much better investment to buy a Spin Clean for $80.
i would recommend picking up a Spinclean. Great investment, very easy to use, and brings records back to life.
https://www.amazon.ca/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
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It's a cleaning tool. You put distilled water and solution in the base, the record vertically between two brushes and half submerged in the water, then spin it to clean it. It gets the dust and dirt out of the grooves very well. It's a little pricey but there are cheaper knock offs that are just as good. The anti static brush will get static and dust off the surface of records when you play them.
Spin-Clean Record Washer MKII Complete Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ndGPCb3BNM7BX
This one?
I use Spin-Clean to clean my records, and I use an anti-static brush on them to remove any loose dust prior to dropping a needle on the record each play.
In all seriousness though, cleaning records is hard. The groves are tiny and the dust is wedged in there and doesn't come out easy. Sometimes the groove is damaged and the record is just hosed.
I guess the question is what are you trying to achieve? Are you cleaning records before every play because you feel you should? Do they sound fine already? If so leave it alone. There's countless screwed up records out there that would have been fine if someone had just left the damn thing alone.
If they're crackly and sound like ass then yes cleaning them might be worthwhile.
The cleaning machine I linked to (mostly as a joke) is probably as best as you are going to find. There's a guy at the record fair I go to who has one of these and I've ran a few records through it. It works well and makes a noticeable difference to the sound of the record.
There's other record cleaning machines that are essentially a wet and dry vacuum cleaner. They do a good job of getting the gunk out. Problem is they cost anywhere from $300 to $4000 for that ultrasonic cleaner I linked to.
There's cheaper options such as a spin clean that apparently does an ok job, but I've never used it.
Another option is Record Revirginizer. I've used this and gotten some good results. Problem is that it's expensive.
The reason all the methods are "wrong" as you state ,is because everyone has an opinion and no one has any proof.
I don't know much about powder dosing robots, but have you tried hitting it with a zerostat gun?
https://www.amazon.com/Milty-Zerostat-Anti-Static-Gun-Blue/dp/B0033SHDSS
I love these things
Time to add a Zerostat OP: https://smile.amazon.com/Milty-5036694022153-Zerostat-Anti-Static-Blue/dp/B0033SHDSS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=zerostat&qid=1565749682&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I use the zerostat. It's not at all perfect, but it does help here in the winter months.
here it is on amazon for $100.
http://www.amazon.com/MILTY-ZEROSTAT-ANTI-STATIC-GUN-BLUE/dp/B0033SHDSS
Thanks. Is this what you mean?
http://www.amazon.com/MILTY-ZEROSTAT-ANTI-STATIC-GUN-BLUE/dp/B0033SHDSS
I just ordered a cork mat and some new sleeves as suggested below. Hopefully that will do it, but if not, I'll buy one of these too.
My Zerostat goes rat a tat tat. Why are you resisting? A quick hundo on Amazon and your static is gone.
We use an antistatic gun. Like this one
Milty 5036694022153 Zerostat 3 Anti-Static Gun, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033SHDSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EOGYDb477EMAF
Works like a charm to prevent the powder from sticking to the sides of the vial
Try one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Milty-Zerostat-Anti-Static-Gun-Blue/dp/B0033SHDSS
they're very effective in my opinion.
Not at all. Nothing actually comes off of the silicone even if you sit there and rub it as hard as you can with you finger or even a key or something. It is tacky rubber-like material that is just tacky enough to lift up dust and crap from the record. No residue and since nothing is coming off to wear it out, it seems to last forever. I've had mine for years and with a little water and dishsoap it is like new when I wash it every few days.
I will say that this is NOT for people with really dirty records. Get a SpinClean or something for that. But once your records are clean, this roller will be all you need to keep them that way 99% of the time. It WILL clean very dirty records, but it will fill up and need rinsed too often to be practical if they are really dirty.
My routine is to SpinClean every record I buy. Put it in a Mofi inner sleeve (with the inner sleeve facing UP inside the outer jacket to keep out dust), then a poly outer sleeve. When I get something out to play, I hit it for 5 seconds with the silicone roller and everything is clean as a whistle. I have got a carbon fiber brush in a drawer somewhere and a Groove Washer sitting next to my turntable, but 99% of the time this roller is all I need.
(Another thing about this thread... anti-static brushes don't get rid of static electricity, they just don't introduce more static. Same for Mofi inner sleeves. The ONLY thing I have found besides a wet wash to really kill static is a Milty Zerostat.)
Rating: 9
Review: Hard to say since I'm so close to a 10, I should hang out with my friends more.
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I wish my sister could be as happy as me!
This to clean my screens the only thing that's bothering me!
https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Kit-Computer-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6
Is it possible the screen is damaged from incorrect cleaning? Using water and a microfiber towel should show some improvement, even if only a little. (If it does show a little improvement, keep doing it.)
I've used this before on old Mac laptop screens: https://www.amazon.com/Screen-Cleaner-Spray-Kit-Microfiber/dp/B0047E8DN6/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487238727&sr=1-6&keywords=screen+cleaner
You could always try the disk doctor. http://www.amazon.com/SkipDr-Manual-Disc-Repair-System/dp/B0015ACUKC/
I have one of these
https://www.amazon.com/LensPen-NLP-1CUP-UltraPro-Cleaner-Silver/dp/B00L6IUHXU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469907421&sr=8-3&keywords=lenspen