(Part 3) Best automotive electrical replacement parts according to redditors

Upgraded might be an overstatement but you'd understand if you had a Nissan leaf
FIAMM 74100 El Grande - Twin Horns - Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DLBIGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MtbTmDGZplGLH

The $19.95 one from Amazon that is currently out of stock

Dont get me wrong. This is very good work. If the point was to make is seamless into the car you nailed it.

However, this splitter would have only taken you seconds for the same result, electrically. Amazon

Amazon $19.95 prime shipped

http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-H100X-Professional-Pressure-Protective/dp/B00HESFIJ4

For in the car I like the form factor of this one better

http://www.amazon.com/Accu-Gage-RS60XA-Professional-Pressure-Protective/dp/B00VS0T7IC

and down below you can get the rubber guard for it for $5 so $15 total and much more compact and handy for in car usage although only goes to 60psi.

you can get the ribbed sheath for $7.49 and its also prime shipped. (the regular rubber sheath is not prime found it also for $5.07 prime shipped just search accu-gage and you will find it (second page)

and I will be buying a couple of these shortly. did not even know this existed.

http://www.amazon.com/Accu-gage-Chek-Spare-Valve-Extender/dp/B0006O2S8M

you screw onto your spare and then run the other end somewhere convenient so you can both check and fill as needed your spare without digging it out!

I think my favorite is this one

http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ02-EZ-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W

clamps onto your tire chuck AND has a pass through for the compressor. so you can fill at a gas station for example but also use your gauge to know when to stop since many do not have a gauge or its hard to read or inaccurate/broken.

$17

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

The 2017s are plagued with the same and I didn't want to run a wire out of the single cig lighter outlet in the center console storage.

So I followed one guy's forum post, got a fuse tap and a USB converter and wired into the accessory fuse which for me is right next to where my left foot sits while driving. Ran the wires up underneath the steering column with some wire clips and good to go!

This pryometer is single best investment I've made. Testing pressures like you did is basically trying to subjectively measure what this can directly measure. What's the best pressure to run? The one that get's the most work out of the tire. That shows up as relatively consistent temperature distribution across the surface. All changes I've made to the kart correlates in some way to tire temp.

http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-54005-Pyrometer-Adjustable/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=414eFGN%2BEtL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR144%2C160_&refRID=0CS2WBZGAA1RVH0YHQQ2

• Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost
  
  
• Or Dashcam + Micro SD card = No parking mode.
  
  ---
  
  Write down your values right now.
  
  
• Video quality = 0-10
  
  
• Build quality = 0-10
  
  
• Parking mode = 0-10
  
  0 being the lowest, 10 being the highest.
  
  A129 isn't a bad dash cam, but be prepared for your values to shift after ownership after a while. If you did your research, you know what you are purchasing. A129 2CH is what it is, as advertised.
  
  ---
  
  
• A129 ($160 USD) Dash cam
  
  
• Micro SD card - TLC based cards will not last as long as MLC based High Endurance cards. 128 GB Micro SD card TLC based card likely ($20 USD) vs 64 GB High Endurance Micro SD card MLC based card likely ($43 USD)
  
  Micro SD cards last about a year or 2, maybe 3, then die. They have a limited number of read/write/rewrite cycles. Some are not Dashcam rated (will say in the warranty use in a dash cam will void warranty.) Some dash cams are picky with Micro SD cards and reject them on an unknown criteria. Some dash cams have recommended brands of Micro SD cards.
  
  
• Viofo 3 wire Hardwire kit ($15 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  
• Viofo 2 wire hardwire kit ($10 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  
• Power Magic Pro 3 wire hardwire kit ($24-30 USD) - Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.
  
  So I don't know how Viofo parking mode activates under different situations.
  
  
• Typical 2 wire system = Motion sensor(Movement in front of camera lens)/G sensor (hits bumps) inactivity, with required 1-2 minutes of "Quiet time." If the dash cam does not get its required "Quiet time" it will record normally until Low voltage cut off feature activates. Low voltage cut off feature (Preset/Not Adjustable) Voltage only.
  
  1st wire (Postitive) -> Always on fuse = Parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  Or
  
  1st wire (Positive) -> Ignition only fuse = No parking mode; 2nd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  
• Typical 3 wire system = Ignition switch position parking mode detection. This typically is more reliable way to detect if parked. However High end/Luxury vehicles with an (Unique/Specific) sleep mode will require an (Unique/Specific) hardwiring setup to allow the dash cam to work. (Sometimes including tunneling through the firewall to the battery, then re-insulating said fire wall.) Low voltage cut off feature (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.
  
  1st wire (Bat) -> Always on fuse = Powers dash cam; 2nd wire (ACC) -> Ignition only fuse = Detects if parked or driving; 3rd wire -> Ground wire (Negative) to unpainted bolt (completes circuit).
  
  I don't know how/if A129 changes from 2 -> 3 wire, or from 3 wire viofo -> 3 wire Power Magic Pro.
  
  
• Tap a fuse ($5-15 USD) + 5 amp fuse ($1-5 USD) at any automotive store.
  
  All Fuses, including Tap a fuse should match your vehicle's type. Mini/Mini low profile are the most common. There are also ATO, Micro 2, Micro 3, and Maxi type fuses.
  
  Read your owner's manual for fuse box location(s) typically 2-3 in every vehicle - in/under dashboard (use this one), Under hood (avoid at all costs), In door (use able but not favored), and Trunk (Use able but not favored.)

Use this:

Wiring Harness

I believe it is this one. I actually just installed a second 12v car socket and then just plugged this adapter into it. The bummer was that i found it used power even when there was not a USB device plugged into it. That's why i added the red switch on the back. That switch shuts off power to that socket when it's not in use.

I got the Fiamm 'El Grande' Horns for my motorcycle - they work great, and they're plenty loud, too.

Here is a good 'before' example for the Fiamm

And here is after the Fiamm install

They make these small stepper motors just for this type of application. No specialized driver needed, hook up directly up the Arduino ttl output pins. I bought one years ago on eBay for a couple dollars to play around with. This Amazon link are similar but different color. They are useful to make all sorts of analog instrumentation displays.

http://www.amazon.com/Instrument-Dashboard-Silverado-Cavalier-Avalanche/dp/B004PXAUGC

Links to al the stuff I purchased listed below:

Headlights:
http://www.wpdrl.com/Showprot.aspx?id=658

Tail lights:
RCP - RFT01 - Aftermarket Upgrade LED Taillight for 2012-2015 Ford Fusion, Clear Red Rear lamps Lens with Loop Ring Driving light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FU39X9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CFjoDbY02WJRE

Spoiler:
Painted Factory Style Spoiler fits the Ford Fusion 525 G1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0104J33ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGjoDb26XJDHF

Antenna:
CravenSpeed Stubby Antenna Replacement for the Ford Fusion 2005-2019 | 4 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073X74X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0GjoDbK3DM47X

Grill:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162601654749

Sway bar stiffener:
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-ford-fusion-rear-swaybar-13-14

K&N intake:
K&N 69-3533TTK Air Intake System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FU9B9HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WJjoDbXCE1G1Z

It is easily twice as bright as the factory setup. far better pattern too.

https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810131&sr=8-9&keywords=h4+harness

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-HLA-H83140171-H4-100-80W/dp/B000COBLKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810209&sr=8-1&keywords=h4+100w

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003427811-132mm-High-Headlamp/dp/B001G72VIK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1464810364&sr=8-4&keywords=hella+h4

Order one of each and a second bulb. plug it all in and have awesome light.

Could be a relay to make the 3rd brake light flash a few times and then hold steady when you apply the brakes. Some automakers are testing systems like this in the US. They're already pretty popular in Europe

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Flasher-Module-Universal-Motorcycles/dp/B00FADDOL4

Here's one in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_ORq2XyfMQ

Do you have a test light? Start with the truck off see what doesn't have power. Turn the truck on and see what has power and then what it does. All of that is going to have 12v's just need to find one that has power at the key position you want. They make cool fuse taps that make it really easy

Parts List:

• Nilight 32" light bar: $42
  
• 14AWG wiring harness: $14
  
• 1" Mounting clamps: $17
  
• OEM fog lamp switch (#H4510FJ000): ~$40
  
• Assorted wire connectors
  
• Crimping tool
  
• Heat shrink
  
• Silicone sealant
  
  A friend and I did the installation ourselves in about 90 minutes (it definitely helps to have an extra set of hands!). Here are the basic steps we followed (refer to this guide for pictures):
  
  

1. Attach the clamps to the roof basket.
   
2. Mount the light bar to the clamps (I ended up having to buy longer screws than the ones included with the light bar).
   
3. Run wiring harness out from under the hood through the drain hole (I had to slightly enlarge the hole with a drill). Slide heat shrink onto the wiring harness, then connect the harness to the light bar via crimping.
   
4. Attach the wiring harness to the battery. Test the light bar at this point to ensure everything is functioning correctly. Screw down the relay and seal the heat shrink.
   
5. Remove the rubber grommet and run the wiring for the switch through the firewall.
   
6. [Optional] The wiring harness comes with a switch, but I wanted to use an OEM switch. I connected the switch listed above to the spare foglight plug using these instructions.
   
7. Adjust light bar angle, zip tie any loose wiring and secure the wiring harness to the side of the windshield with silicone sealant (in the drainage channel).
   
   Hope this helps!

I put a pair of Fiamm Hi/Lo car horns on my SV650 and they were damned loud (and cheap). You'll need to use a relay (any garden variety $5 car horn relay will work). Cost about $25 for everything.

Mounting out of sight may be difficult, I didn't even try to conceal them.

Probe all day . More accurate and more precise

Yeah, you obviously need to replace the mount base assembly. I would keep it taped up to seal out moisture until that day, though.

However, once you do that, I would get the low-profile antenna. Here's what I got and it's great - no loss of signal that I can tell :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073X74X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If your cig lighter is hot when the car is off then you can use that. You can also use a fuse split-er to hardware it without cutting any factory wires.
Like this...
https://smile.amazon.com/Mini-Fuse-Circuit-Adapter-Terminals/dp/B00AK0TGRS


If you use one of those make sure to get the right fuse type that matches your car and extra low amp fuses for the camera power line.

This is the one I have, although it might be a little bigger than you want. I picked it up at a local Advanced Auto, but the one on Amazon that I link to seem identical. I like it, but it might be more than you're looking for.

my gauge

>With that said, is there a preference of one over the other?

The A119 has a better camera vs the Mobius and has a screen which the latter doesnt. Personally, I would go with the A119

>my commute is generally 2 hours each way. When I get into the car the first thing I do is plug in my phone. Is there a cord I can purchase allowing the charge of the phone and cam simultaneously?

You can get something like this

>I live in NY. The summers get extremely hot, with ice cold winters. Is storage inside the car out of the question?

It isn't, but you would want one that doesn't have a bettery but instead has a capacitor which just means it'll only work when plugged in.

>I will not be able to keep the camera on the dashboard when the vehicle is unoccupied during the day, as I work in a highly populated area with a decent amount of crime (my car has been broken into in broad daylight while I was at the office)- so the ease in removing and reattaching the camera from its working position is VERY important to me.

Both are fairly easy to remove from the windshield to store away somewhere else.

I don't think any of them actually come with it like that. I did the mod myself.

Here is the tach mount I used to hold my speedo in place. All it took was drilling an extra hole in the plate to mount it.

Then you get something like this
to mount the indicator lights on the bar clamp.

Quite simple but makes it look much better in my opinion!

Good luck!

I got these as well and they're great. Definitely an upgrade over stock. I would highly recommend a relay upgrade. I had a random power draw issue that killed my battery after installed the lights. This kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5JFHR0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) fixed the issue and made the lights brighter. Just had to wire power and ground to the battery.

It plugged straight in to the stock headlight plugs. Definitely recommend.

Just add an outlet by tapping into your fuse panel!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JXVG2U

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRC5Y/

I bought one off Amazon for 20 bucks. Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00062YWNI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have an OEM gauge, it'll fit in there. Don't second guess it, just do it.

Pyrometer

Low profile jack stands (flat feet, safe for tarmac)

Racing gloves

RaceQuip Helmet Support

A GoPro off-brand accessory kit To help mounting that GoPro to whatever you want to mount it to.

Some Mechanix gloves lots of options

Paint markers various colors.

F4 self-sealing silicone tape

Going Faster
Speed Secrets
High-Performance Handling for Street or Track

Another few things would be to find out what the driver uses for brake pads, brake fluid, rotors, oil filter, etc., as those can be pricey and nice gifts. (I use Hawk DTC-60 front, HP+ rear pads, Motul RBF-600 fluid)

Portable battery powered air pump for tires I have one very similar to this. It's cheap and great to use for adjusting pressures before sessions.

A decent tire pressure gauge This is the one I have and have used for several years and I have been very happy with it.

A subscription to Grassroots Motorsports

Torque wrench, +200 ft/lbs This is the one I have been using for a few years and it works well.

I've got lots of other ideas for tools and such; specific socket sets, impact gun & sockets, special bits for your car, magnet, flash lights/head lamp/stick light, channel locks, stubby sockets, various wrenches, extensions, breaker bar, bits, allen wrenches, vice grips, pry bars, adapters, pliers, cutters, etc that would be good to put on your list if you don't have them in your kit.

Happy holidays!

I do find that the lack of a gauge is a big downside to the device but I use Fobo bluetooth sensors that give an instant readout when I put the cap back on... does take some back and forth but you get used to the time required per psi rather quickly. Otherwise, I also add a passthrough type gauge for a readout: http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ02-EZ-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W

You could try:

• Dashboard stepper motor; literally made for moving gauge needles. Can be drive directly from uController pins
  
• Brushless Gimbal
  
• Air core meter movement, commonly found in aftermarket tachometers. These are nearly the same (functionally) as gimbals.
  

Nilight 10007W 1 Wiring Harness... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XMM3T5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Just ran the wiring along others and wired into the fuse block. Switch ran through same hole as the hood release. The switch is the exact size as the hole on the bottom for your steering column. So no drilling and it's out of sight. Absolutely no issues.

If you want to spend a bit more money, tire pyrometer. Something like this one that actually penetrates the rubber. The laser ones are useless for tires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JVFTTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wQD2Db3KQ5FAG

Also, biggest tote he can fit in his car/trunk with tires and other gear. Makes it nice and easy to have an autox pack to just toss in the car and go and easy to store stuff in at the events.

Mercedes Benz started it for emergency braking on european vehicles in 2006. It took a few years before it was even legal in the US, due to the flashing light restriction on non-emergency response vehicles.

Today, many vehicles have it with several different types of triggers. For Fiat/Chrysler, only the CHMSL light flashes, but it's whenever the brakes are applied. For others, including Mercedes, it's when ABS/Stability control is activated such as during panic braking.

It is also easily available as an aftermarket part (Amazon link) and are frequently used on motorcycles for increased visibility, similar to strobing headlights.

You can use these and mount under your tank https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Mounting/dp/B00062YWNI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519655184&sr=8-9&keywords=autometer+tachometer

I used this although it mounted to the fork and it is works so good and is super tucked in https://www.amazon.com/WinllyAT-Relocation-Bracket-Sportster-1995-2016/dp/B074H7LLNX/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519655244&sr=1-8&keywords=sportster+speedometer+relocation

Wire this to the fan plug in the the charged yeti. uxcell® DC 12V Car Auto Push Button Cigarette Lighter Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090149R0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_PnOHxb48549QP

This one says it fits your FZ1, plug and play supposedly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e0BtDbMEG011S

For the price worth a try.

3V converter:
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00ODL140M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493223709&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+to+3v

AC to DC car converter:
https://www.amazon.com/AOKII-Converter-110-220V-Cigarette-Household/dp/B01H4UZQRA/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493223837&sr=1-4&keywords=ac+to+12v+dc+power+adapter

and 12V plug + wires:
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Button-Cigarette-Lighter-Black/dp/B0090149R0/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493223892&sr=1-4&keywords=12v+plug

of course you can combine all 3 into one with something like this but that's what I had around the house
https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Suitable/dp/B01ISM267G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493223964&sr=8-3&keywords=ac+to+3v+dc

I have a 2018 cb500x, but they make these specific to a variety of bikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-rztDb4BH9YYX

Overview

Not wanting to spend hundreds on the RIGrunner series of distribution boards and being limited by their options, I decided to make my own versions.

I am new to electronics and I had no idea how to make PCBs a couple of days ago, so I need some help here. I will give some for free if someone help me with the technical problems or verify the files (more in the end), and of course I will make everything public for everyone to use personally.

About this board

This is the most simple and my first version. UNTESTED AT ALL at this point. It uses soldered/crimped 12ga wires, and [Keystone 3557-2] (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/3557-2/?qs=cxy41lVAGV%2FfbyASjpXK1g%3D%3D) Fuse Holders. Fuse holder is rated for 30A, so is the contact. The fuse holders accepts both ATC/ATO and mini size fuses, and looks nice. The mounting holes are for 6-32 or 3mm size screws (0.142''/3.6mm ID)

Any problems you see with the design? Connectors placed too close/too far?

Component Cost

At the highest retail price (lowest volume), 7 holders and 7 connectors cost about $15, plus the cost of some 12ga wires (building wire). 7 good quality [Eaton fuses] (http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Fuses/Automotive-Fuses/_/N-ba8b5?P=1yocc0hZ1z0s1g2) adds another 7 dollars, or you can get [120 pcs of cheap stuff] (https://www.amazon.com/Cal-Hawk-CAPCFM-Assorted-Truck-Mini/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0045K2Q9Y&pd_rd_r=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF&pd_rd_w=dzzaU&pd_rd_wg=pK73O&psc=1&refRID=65EQMQKVBF7B5AFRSBNF) on Amazon for the same price. In the end it should be less than $20 w/o the PCB.

Depending on where you get the PCBs made, it can be cheaper, or a lot cheaper than the commercial options.

Future designs

For future versions - what functions would you like to have on your power distribution board?

• Blown fuse LED indicator, capacitors (not sure why?), switches, or other electrical features?
  
• Horizontal connectors and fuse placement?
  
• Other connectors/terminals?
  
• How many outlets?
  
  

  Case
  

  I have some experience in CAD and CAM, so I should also be able to make some enclosures for whatever board I come up with. It should be pretty cheap for a simple folded sheet metal case or some machined plastic cover and mount them with standoffs.
  
  
  

  Software problems / design checking
  

  I'm using KiCAD - free, no licensing needed whatsoever. The files, both KiCAD files and Gerber files can be found [here] (https://github.com/cjm27/Powerpole-Distribution-Boards) on GitHub. I have two problems now:
  
  
  

• For some reason I cannot connect some pads with tracks on both sides. As soon as I draw a track on one side, the other side's track disappears. I don't think this would be a problem when made because they'll be covered by the copper pour.
  
  
  
• In the 3D preview, it shows the holes are covered by the copper pours. In production I think they will be drilled, so it shouldn't be a problem either? They should be plated through hole to conduct current.
  
  
  If someone is experience with PCB manufacturing, I will really appreciate some verification before I send the files to production.
  
  
  

  Thanks everyone for reading. 73

You car has "mini fuses" and I get an assortment from Amazon. The ratings range from 5 amps to 40 amps.

This is the set that I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045K2Q9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ERyszbQ91N786

Pair Square 5''x 7'' Led Headlight High Low Beam Headlamp for Jeep Wrangler YJ Cherokee XJ Trucks 4X4 Offroad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0733G5QLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_kBVCHVpJQCQgW

Dual High Low Beam Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5JFHR0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm running these two and it's amazing

X2,
My camera didn't come equipped for hard-wiring so I had to clip the cigarette lighter plug off. I bought an add a fuse adapter, and spliced the positive into it, and ran the negative to a ground terminal by the fuse box. The wires are totally concealed, and I still have my lighter outlet for charging my phone. I didn't have to remove any panels. I was able to tuck the wires inside from the edge.

A 12 speaker system is going to need 3 4 channel amps at 4 ohms, and you will want a good dsp with an adequate number of line outs rather than relying on that many rca splitters. And that's without subwoofers. Then replacing those speakers is going to cost a pretty penny too. I would budget about ten times more if you want to use all those speakers

Dsp:

Alpine pxe-0850s- $700

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PXE0850/Alpine-PXE-0850S.html


Amp:

Pioneer gm a6704 or similar - $140x3, $420 total

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMA6704/Pioneer-GM-A6704.html?tp=35782

Speakers:

Infinity reference 6.5 or similar - $75 a pair, 6 pairs- $450

https://www.crutchfield.com/g_473750/6-6-1-2-6-3-4-Speakers.html?tp=78072


Head unit:

Doesn't really matter what you buy with the dsp, as long as it has at least 4 pre outs

Jvc kd-x360bts - $70

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDX360B/JVC-KD-X360BTS.html?tp=72310

Install:

You'd need some serious custom work to get 3 amps and a dsp installed, no one makes a wiring kit for that.

Large fuse block - $35

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078SCQJNM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

0ga Inline fuse holder - $10

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/inline-fuse-holders/sp/bassik-0-gauge-anl-in-line-fuse-holder-with-fuse/

25 feet 0 gauge power/ground wire -$25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/power-wire/bassik-power-wire/sp/bassik-0-gauge-power-ground-wire-red/

100 feet 12 gauge speaker wire - $20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-theater/speaker-wire/bassik-speaker-wire/sp/bassik-12-gauge-speaker-wire-audio-cable/

20' 4 channel rca cable - $25

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/karma-v3-rca-cables/sp/karma-v3-twisted-4-channel-coaxial-rca-cable-20-feet/

6x 3' 2 channel rca cable - $1.79 a set, $12 total

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/rca-cables/bassik-rca-cables/sp/bassik-twisted-pair-2-channel-ofc-rca-cable-1-meter-3-feet/

Metra dash install kit - $11

Metra 99-3002 Dash Kit For GM Truck And Van 95-05 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029X1LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACOHDb99YRAGC

Metra radio wiring kit and antennae adapter- ~~$25

Various fuses, wire terminals, cable management, ferrules, tools etc - $50

Total- ~$1853. Budget $2000 for shipping, taxes, unseen extra costs

https://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Flasher-Module-Universal-Motorcycles/dp/B00FADDOL4

Or you can buy the new stepper motors, tear down the instrument cluster, desolder the old ones and solder the new ones in their places. Costs about $15 for parts and isn't too hard if you've got mechanical experience. You do need a soldering iron though.

Do you have amazon prime? http://www.amazon.com/G-H-Meiser-EZ-Tire-Gauge/dp/B001CJHU9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1323050127&sr=8-1

Stubby Antennae for $25

Yeah the bike is so quiet I kept trying to upshift to an imaginary 7th gear on the freeway.

IDEA Waterproof Motorcycle Gear Indicator LED Display for Yamaha (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07594TBRZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zzQyDbBE1R6H6

And the mount which is much nicer than the double sided sticky tape they provide.

Motorcycle Speed Gear Indicator Holder - Dewin Universal Speed Display Bracket for Honda Yamaha Kawasaki https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNF6JLB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RAQyDbJXK74D5

Yea. That's what I'm saying. There isn't enough resistance when the fogs and lows beams are on, so they freak out and flicker. Here is a flasher that will stop the hyper flashing for your turn signals.

Got home late tonight so shitty speedo pics will have to suffice. Here is what I see from riding position. I can see, without moving my head, from about 10-90 mph (which is all I really need, I've never hit above 85). A slight head shift and I can see the whole thing. You can also see the stock handlebar clam that i sawed off the top part. You can see a line where I missed a swipe with the saw lol.

Here is a shot of the autometer casing and where it is attached. I widened the hole in the bracket and just attached it straight to the gas tank bolt. Even with mirrors and handlebar mounted turn signals it just fits (when I park the bike, the forks just touch it.)

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3209-Tachometer-Accessory/dp/B00062YWNI) is the autometer casing I bought. Wrapped the speedo in one coat of electrical tape, one coat of hockey tape, and it fit perfectly. With the rubber pieces on the speedo there was only about one square inch (at the base of the autometer) that was exposed, but I wrapped it once fully anyway.

I got one of these Grom Audio units for my 2007.5 A4. It plugs in to the external CD changer port of the stock head unit. I didn't have an external CD changer, so no big deal for me. I'd you do have one you'll have to decide if it's worth losing it, or if you want to go with something else.

As for the unit itself, it mimics a CD and doesn't provide track or artist info on the display, but it does work with the steering wheel controls.

Installation is very easy. Order yourself a set of these stereo keys and you can have the unit installed in 15 minutes. No tools required.

/u/VeryCleverMoose okay, so this is the aux/30-pin cord that I bought and this is the adapter you need to go with it. There are dozens of things on amazon that are virtually the same, you just have to look through the reviews and questions and usually people say what it fits. Also, you will need a set of radio removal keys, I paid a few extra for ones that don't bend so easily here.
Tutorial:

• 1. Put a nice and thick towel over your center console. Sit in the passenger seat.
     
• 2. Insert a removal key into each slot with the angled part facing outwards until they click. Don't push until you bottom out. This isn't Brazzers.
     
• 3. With all 4 keys in, use a friend's help or use your thumb and pinky to grab a top and bottom key with each hand so the force is spread evenly between all four keys. Once the radio is loose, pull it out a bit and then - I needed a small flatblade screwdriver to help - depress the catch on the back of the radio to free each key.
     
• 4. Gently pull the radio completely forward and let it rest on the towel.
     
• 5. See the big 20 or whatever pin plug on the bottom right of the back of the radio (if you are looking directly at the back of the radio)? Unplug it, and plug it into the orange adapter.
     
• 6. Get a small zip tie and jumble up the 30-pin cord on the aux jack dongle. You don't want to nicely coil it however as this can create radio noise.
     
• 7. Unscrew a suitable screw on any clean metal on the back of the radio- may want to use a magnetic tipped screwdriver so you don't drop it. Put the grounding wire over the hole and screw the screw back in - make sure it's tight as you want a good connection.
     
• 8. Take the weird plug from the 30-pin/aux dongle (which is in our case blue) and slide it onto the adapter plug (green in this case)
     
• 9. Plug that assembled connector into the spot where you originally removed the 20-pin plug, it should click IIRC.
     
• 10. Put the 30-pin/aux dongle in the back of the radio cavity, and feed the aux jack right across the center of the opening. Open your little tray/drawer. There should be a slot that goes into it, and you can slip the aux jack through. Feed what you can through the opening, don't worry about coiling it into the drawer yet.
      
• 11. While keeping the aux cord taught and flat in the opening, slide the radio back into the hole. The aux cord should be down in the recessed channel in the center and the radio should slide right in over top of it.
      
• 12. You're done. Just be careful coiling up the cord so you don't jam the drawer up, and you will have to slam it a little bit so that it stays shut. Press the CD button when you want to use the aux jack as the input. It works perfectly, and only a tiny bit of static/noise from the engine when using the aux jack, and only if you're playing something dead quiet.
      

Well, I don't know how many DC outlets you have or need, but this was AWESOME for us:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RQBKLC/

We were able to plug in the GPS, DVD player, Ipad and Iphone

Every random shutdown I've ever experienced has been traced to a power issue. My mobile rig had corrosion at the battery terminal which started out as random shutdowns during high power tx and progressed to shutdown during any power level tx. Fixed that by putting a fuse box tap inside the cab of the truck (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742BZXC2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on an unused power source.

The other problem I had was my HF rig wouldn't put out max power on tx. Turned out a power management box I had in the power chain was dropping about 1.6 volts, resulting in the HF radio either shutting off or transmitting less power. Removed the offending box and all is well.

Moral of the story: Even if you think your power supply circuit is good, check it thoroughly!

>To my understanding, the relay is connected to the ignition so when the vehicle is started


Yes that's a way you can do it, but imagine that you're camping and you totally depleted your deep cycle battery, and now you have an empty battery and a good battery, as soon as you turn your key (even before the engine is running) both batteries will be connected in parallel. If you try to start your car you'll find that you cant since the good battery is essentially charging the bad battery, if you keep trying start your car you'll soon find the the voltage of both batteries is 6v. If you find yourself in this situation you will have to manually unplug the depleted battery to be able to start the car. This scenario is exactly what the power stream is meant to prevent since it will not connect both batteries unless the alternator is outputting 13.4v.



Yeah I guess for your application the Goal Zero is the way to go. That's why I Initially just mentioned an extra battery with a cheap inverter hooked to it, and charge it whenever you come home. If you want to charge it while on the road just take the leads of a cigarette lighter plug and connect them directly to the extra battery to charge it, it'll be a slow charge (5~10Amps) but that's exactly how the Yeti Goal Zero does it. But if you have the $600 to spend on the yeti, go ahead.

https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1496619302&sr=8-5&keywords=waterproof+12v+socket

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Stereo-Distribution-Block-Ground/dp/B078SCQJNM/

I saw that thing on Amazon like a year ago. Interesting to see one in the wild

was looking for something similar to this Audison block as an all in one distro solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Audison-Connection-Mini-Distributor-Masseverteiler/dp/B005C8MLZW/

....

afaik, those are really the only two options for blocks of that style.

Stubby

> I'm comfortable with soldering and electricity in general but not auto-wise.

Me too, I hadn't done anything like this, but it wasn't too hard. I crimped instead of soldering because I figured it wouldn't make a difference, and didn't want to move my soldering station, but either way works.

I used this tutorial to remove the pillar and run the wires up to the windshield.

I hid all the wires above the fuse box, essentially behind the little storage cubby on the left side of the steering column.

Finally, I used this type of add a fuse (there are a bunch of similar products but they're all about the same. Any auto parts store will carry the same thing). If you look in your owner's manual, you can find which fuses are switched (on when the car is running) or running straight off the battery (on all the time). So, depending on whether you want it to run when parked or not. If you want it to run while parked, I'd recommend getting a battery setup if you want to run it as a parking monitor.

In relation to your PRHT squeaks, I have no idea, since I have a soft top and haven't had issues with it. Maybe try browsing around on Miata.net.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

https://www.amazon.com/3-Pin-CF-13-Electronic-Flasher-Signal/dp/B008C9YJ6C

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-flasher

I didn't narrow down by what your truck is but those searches should get you in the neighborhood. For mine it was just one of the relays near the fuse box, popped the one that was turn signal, bought the electronic one with same outputs and there you go. No mini super-heaters (those resistors get hot!) needing to mount somewhere they can dissipate that heat without burning the vehicle down.

I would use one of these to tap into a fuse that only comes on when the key is on, rather than tapping directly into the lines. You should be able to find them at any local auto parts store, walmart should carry them too.

I wouldn't run the LED's in parallel, especially with strip lighting, you'll have inconsistent brightness across the strip, and may well cause the whole thing to burn out. Always do it in series.

I've been thinking about buying one for a while. This one in particular:

http://smile.amazon.com/adapter-cigarette-lighter-splitter-MRS152UV/dp/B003RQBKLC/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_2


But I'm not sure if it will be able to fit into the ashtray next to the cig lighter...really want it to feel like an integrated part of the car, not hanging out.

Would one of these be better than the other?

http://smile.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY?sa-no-redirect=1

http://smile.amazon.com/Auto-Button-Cigarette-Lighter-Black/dp/B0090149R0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742893&sr=1-2&keywords=cigarette+lighter+plug

http://smile.amazon.com/K40-K403CBPP-2-Wire-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B001JT98S6/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=06E9J8F93C84MQ2G79PE

TIA

I got my Helix sub installed close to 2 months ago, here's where I got everything (tax and shipping excluded):

• Helix Sub, Rick Case VW, $479.20 (link). There was an additional mail-in 15% rebate going on through Q1 on VW rebates, but now it's 10% on Q2. Haven't received that additional mail-in yet, it's up to 90 days for it to come in. You need to buy from a VW dealer to qualify, but I think it puts you generally ahead compared to ECS, ShopDAP, etc.
  
• Long screw and short screw from VW parts vortex, $10.96 total. You don't really need the additional short screw, you just need the long one. I ended up using both nuts (plus having the extra spare that you already have on your car) to hold the spare tire and sub each, but you really just need the one on top of it all.
  
• Radio removal key, $7.49. Not a bad deal, you need them.
  
• Audio terminal removal keys, $7.95. Don't cheap out, you want to have a set of these. They make the involved step super easy.
  
• Helix programmer, Golf MK7 forum, $100 deposit, $10 rental. The guy handling that thread is super on top of it, just get on the list. It's worth it, helps clean up the sound, specially on mid to high volume. My sub came pre-programmed for a Jetta as indicated by the tool, there was a noticeable difference.
  
• Wiring harness jumper 000-051-727-B, got it from ShopDAP for ~$20). You don't need this jumper AT ALL, buuuuut it does enable you to take the sub out and use the stock system by just plugging at the end of the harness going to the sub. Awesome if you ever need the trunk space, I just keep it in my tools bag in the car. Doubt I'll use it more than once or twice, but it's there!
  
• Some bone / plastic tools make the panel removal process easier, your choice on these.
  
  
  That was my best attempt at saving money when I did it. The sites that claim $300 or so where when they cleared inventory of the previous revision and then released B. Couldn't find a better combination of discounts and rebates.
  
  
  These 4 videos were all I needed to install it, there's overlap between them. Video 1, video 2, video 3, video 4.
  
  
  I had a MK7 with the Fender system but totaled it, replaced with a MK7.5 without Fender (SE). Helix is better (a little more powerful), so nothing to envy on Fender, although Fender has the advantages of not having to deal with any of the installation and retaining the lower floor with a spare.

[this guy] (https://www.amazon.com/3-Pin-CF-13-Electronic-Flasher-Signal/dp/B008C9YJ6C). You can get them in 2 prong round ones too.

Try this!

The first thing that I got was a cell phone holder and a USB splitter. Makes the daily driving much better.

http://www.amazon.com/adapter-cigarette-lighter-splitter-MRS152UV/dp/B003RQBKLC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416346705&sr=8-3&keywords=cigarette+lighter+splitter

It’s this one.

I’m thinking about picking one up soon. Seems like a great deal and will help simplify installation of several amps/dsp.

AH sorry missed that. May have to make up your own for that. Not a big following on those. You can buy general kits taht you can modify as you need to. Just make sure and get one that has the correct plugs for your bulbs.

Somethign like:
https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Ceramic/dp/B00H5JFHR0

I ran into this problem and fixed them myself. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado with this issue. It's a known issue with the GM vehicles in a certain range. They sent a recall out for it but my mileage was too high to have it done for free. It was pretty simple with minimal soldering skills.

If your car is a GM car (which it looks like a GM dash), here are some links. I used these exact stepper motors and instructions similar to this and it took me approximately 30min to complete. It was much easier than I expected.

Good Luck!

I put in these as drop-in replacements for my Subaru OEM horns:

https://www.amazon.com/Fiamm-74100-FIAMM-El-Grande/dp/B000DLBIGG

They aren't necessarily louder, but they have a different range of sounds (sort of like an 80s Buick) and have gotten more attention than my stock horns used to, I've found.

I had no idea there was a specific tool for this! Does this look right?

Thanks for the help!

Fuses are a fail safe in case there is a surge, they don't control how much current goes through the outlet. But even if there is a surge you still have the charger as a secondary fail safe. If the bigger fuse still blows, then it's the charger. Car fuses are dirt cheap at a few cents a pop, and you should have them in glove box anyways.

http://www.amazon.com/120-Assorted-Truck-Mini-Fuse/dp/B0045K2Q9Y