(Part 2) Best car polishes & waxes according to redditors

Most car wash detergents will work fine unless it expressly stated that it is meant as a pre wax treatment.


Personally I use this: Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash and Wax - 48 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0

It has a waxy compound in it, so it adds additional protection.... And it smells great.

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

​

Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt

1. Rub the rubbing compound using pad. Scrub!
   
2. Wipe clean
   
3. Rub the polish compound using pad. Scrub!
   
4. Wipe clean
   
   Don't use too much product.
   Too much will make it to slippery.
   
   Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
   
   
   
   $20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   Post a before
   and after picture

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

Somebody nicked your door with something red. Not a big deal. You should be able to buff it out with a cleaner wax and a wax applicator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's cheaper and a lifetime supply that does the same thing as the PolyWatch. Fine for little scratches. You just put a bit on a Qtip and twirl it around the scratch. Eventually it gets a little gritty and that's when the abrasive starts working on the scratches. You'll probably do it a few times before they are good enough. Just a tiny bit of the product at a time, it goes a long way.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

Canuba wax when I feel ambitious. I really like the Griots speed shine in between waxes

I sent a note to Henry asking what they recommend, and they said Flitz Polish. Works great!

Link to Amazon where I bought mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675657&sr=8-4&keywords=flitz+metal+polish

First of all, get yourself a nice set of microfiber towels. Anything from The Rag Company is solid, or a pack of the ones from Costco are good too.

The best way if you have time and access to a hose is the 2 bucket wash method. The way most people scratch their car while hand washing is the drying process. That's the part that people usually rush when really that's when most of the damage is done. Either dry it with a leaf blower or a microfiber towel and make sure the towel is clean after each wipe. If it's visibly dirty at all, flip it over or get another towel.

If you don't have access to a hose, or if its winter or whatever, use Optimum No Rinse. ONR is pretty much universally praised in the detailing world. This post should get you started.

After each wash, a quick way to wax/seal the car is to use Opti seal. Just spritz once or twice on a panel while you're drying and buff it off. It's that easy. The one bottle should easily last you a year or two.

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed

Ratchet Straps

Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap

Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car

An actual RC Colorado ZR2

>What stones do you suggest outside of the diamond lansky system? I want to make mirror polished edges if possible. I have a few crappier knives to practice on.

I bought the deluxe kit and later on bought accessories like diamond, curved hones, ect. The diamond certainly is worth it and Lansky's diamond stones are pretty good.

As for what to get (these are cheaper on other sites, but I'm just referring to Lansky's for information sake), I'd suggest:

Ultra Fine/1000 grit/"Yellow". Comes standard in most kits, and is an excellent polishing stone.

"Blue Sapphire"/2000 grit. Sold separate, but worth it. Can put a glistening nearly/ready-for mirror edge on a blade.

Leather strop. Absolute must buy. It's a regular Lansky hone with a good quality piece of leather on it. Apply your preferred compound and strop away. Best way to finish and with the the right compounds can make mirror edges.

Curved hones In case you have any curved knife blades.

Serration/triangle hone For serrations, if you need to sharpen them (there's also a few other grits other than that, too).

Also worth mentioning a stand for Lansky clamps is available (so is a C-clamp variant). In case you get tired of wrist movements, ect. Pretty convenient.

>Also, any advice on compounds for strops

http://stropman.com/ - I buy all 4 (black/course, white/medium, green/fine, red rouge/ultra fine). Great compounds and not that chalky dried out shit you'll find elsewhere (seriously, to hell those compounds where you have to heat it/melt it on). These will apply just by using hand pressure on a strop and rubbing it in quickly like a crayon.

I also use Flitz polishing paste, simply because it's convenient to have (Flitz is damned near magical). Doesn't apply to a hard piece of strop leather (the kind that isn't potmarked and with lots of give) very well. The softer and more rough/natural kind will take to it like a fish in water, however.

I've also used Tormek's honing compound. It, too, is pretty good. As for the grit compared to Flitz, I'd say it's more aggressive but slightly less in finish.

>and oil for bearings/general use

In a pinch, Singer sewing machine oil.

The best lube I've come across, however, is Sentry Solutions' Tuf-Glide. It's absolutely mind-blowing when you first use a lube of that quality and realize how much is lessens friction. Protects decently from moisture as well.

No problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502586791&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+wax

Easy to use. Just get the applicator pad a little wet, dab a little wax onto it, and apply it to the entire screen (just dont go into the microphone or speaker holes). Then give it a few minutes so it hazes over and dries, and then buff it out with a cloth. I usually did two or three coats but one is normally good. And it helps cover up very minor scratches too.

Nevr-Dull should do the trick.

Meguiars: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526-Hybrid-Ceramic-Wax/dp/B06WVQ6MVR

Mothers: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mothers+cmx+ceramic&qid=1555014993&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

McKees: https://www.amazon.com/McKees-37-MK37-260-Coating-Enhanced/dp/B074WPDR4W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=mckees&qid=1555015022&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I don't have Meguiars. Just the Mothers and McKees and they're both spectacular in my experience so far. But too short to tell how long they both hold up long term. I was a bit peeved when I went to go use McKees again and the spray nozzle got clogged with hardened product, but on the flip side, I was really impressed that it really does harden quite well, so I'm pretty confident it will last a long time. Plus is pretty safe/easy to use.

You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.

I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).

1. Rub a small amount on the board (do only a quarter of the board at a time otherwise the wax will harden on the surface in patches while you do other sections).
   
2. Use a buffing/microfiber cloth to spread the wax evenly in circles. The surface will become a little cloudy.
   
3. Important: after the whole board is waxed wait at least 20 minutes for the wax to cure.
   
4. Use a different side of the cloth to buff the wax off. Note that this whole process seems to work best in hotter temperatures.
   
   Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
   
   I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.

1. Hand wash with a quality microfiber mitt using Optimum No Rinse Wash.
   
   
2. Dry with quality microfiber towels using a small amount of Opti-Seal as a drying aid. (I cheat and use an absorber shammy instead of microfiber towels, but technically they can cause microabrasions.)
   
   
3. Clean your wheels and shine tires however you want.
   
   I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.

Yeah for sure! I got a headlight kit from amazon, the chemical guys silk shine spray and a spray bottle with dish soap and water. I also had a 24-pack of large microfiber cloths that I fully expected to throw away, and we chucked maybe 12 of them. They were CAKED with dirt. Haha.

Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!

I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.

I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.

I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

I used this, and not much else... BUT, it did take two goings over to make it look that blue.

I used Meguiar's polish and Compound along with a Chemical guys medium clay bar with lots of wet sanding. Its a tad bit greasy but it turned out nice. Whoever owned it before me must of parked under a tree or something because something ate through a lot of the clear on the top half of the car. I stripped and repainted the hood since that was by far the worst but the rest is factory.

If scratches are deep then sanding is best bet. For finer scratches something like this may work fine.

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=Novus+7100+Plastic+Polish+Kit+-+8+Ounce&qid=1565733885&s=automotive&sr=1-2-fkmr0

I've used 845 for years now. Thinking of using Meguiars Ceramic Wax to top it off when I wash it.

I'm curious to see how this combo works.

I used a lithium silicate sealer and carnauba based wax. I think it's a more durable, longer lasting finishing system than anything oil based. Oil also darkens the colors. The sealer and wax won't change final color.

​

Sealer:

https://concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/FishLithiumGal

​

Wax:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=carnauba+wax&qid=1565364222&s=gateway&sr=8-29

This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.

First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.

When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.

After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.

SC1?? - I use this stuff too.

Clean it with flitz, https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI . Then protect all your exposed iron on your tools with Collinite paste wax, https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Paste-Fleetwax-885-12/dp/B008KPDA1S. The paste wax will make your table saw bed slicker than snot on a door knob. I sweat a lot, and I got pissed that my table saw bed was getting rust spots. This hasn’t happened since using the paste wax. Plus all the wood slides over the table easily.

Go to the autoparts store and buy this stuff called buffing compound. It will be in he section where they sell the car wax. Use it and it will get rid of that film.

Here it is on Amazon:

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ze3hzbJHNS5B3

2017 EX-L hatchback

Mods: XenonDepot 5000k HIDs, HIC visors, Smoked side markers, Chrome exhaust finishers, LED interior lighting, OEM splash guards

Edited: For anyone curious, I tried using this waterless wash and wax for the first time. Not too shabby for quick in-between wash sessions. Just be liberal with the solution and use plenty of microfibers.

Wash the bike so it's spotless, then spray it down with Maxima SC1. It'll shine and smell amazing, no way she could possibly object.

Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K

and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y

Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier

Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ysRAbY208VGG

New bike in a can

I wouldn’t use the bottle, use the pure paste wax. This is the one some builders recommend. I didn’t realize it was that expensive:

Mothers 05550 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Paste (Ultimate Wax System, Step 3) - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t6Q3DbSNQ7CHK

I went cheaper; picked up Johnson paste wax for wood at Home Depot. I was 25% the cost. I’m unsure how much better mothers would be over this. This wax did make a big difference in play after a single application. Do the pucks and board.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SC-Johnson-1-lb-Fine-Wood-Paste-Wax-00203/100154748

Plastic polish:

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407377821&sr=8-2&keywords=novus+2+plastic+polish

They also have a kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407377821&sr=8-3&keywords=novus+2+plastic+polish

It's exactly what it sounds like. It's a spray where you simply wipe a dirty car off with a clean microfiber. No extra water needed. You can do your whole car with it if you wanted. I've done it a few times before in a pinch (I wouldn't recommend it on a real dirty car).

Meguiars sells a waterless wash that you can find in most auto parts stores or even walmart for about $10 a bottle. It's this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS

I've had great luck with Flitz: https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465573928&sr=1-9&keywords=flitz

On pretty much everything plastic I own including the Charge.

I knew about the adjustment but I forget to set it back after demoing the Vive and scratched my Vive lens a couple times. I used Meguiars car polish on the lens and they go back to being like new. If the scratches are too deep the polish may not help though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/

This is the exact wax I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O

You just want to make sure and get pure carnauba wax. Nothing with cleaners or abrasive elements in it.

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

I have never heard of any place that details bikes. Hose it down with a liberal amount of this(Muc-Off works well too), wait, rinse it off , dry the bike and then use this stuff everywhere except the seat and grips. Your bike will look brand new and it will only take like 20 minutes. That's probably all a shop is going to do.

random orbital machines dont really speed up the process very much.

There are 3 kinds of machines for polishing:

• Random Orbital. Weakest action but also pretty harmless.
  
• Dual Action (combines a small orbital action with medium speed rotations) - Best for beginners
  
• Rotary - fastest and most aggressive. Easy to burn through a finish.
  
  I have used a 10 inch random orbital like the HF one and it was way too slow to accomplish what you need.
  
  By the way you dont need 3 more coats of wax. As mentioned what you need is a good polish.
  
  Polishing and older car will take time but you need a medium cut cleaner, a lighter cut swirl remover, and then a fine cut mirror finisher.
  
  I use the meguiars range of products like this:
  http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Professional-Glaze-liquid/dp/B0002UQAM0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1371516134&sr=8-18&keywords=maguires+polish
  
  Also lots of tutorials and information on youtube on the autogeek channel. they also have an online store although a lot of the stuff they sell is expensive.
  
  If your car is this old and you go to this much trouble, you might look into headlight polishing too. Also glass sometimes needs a good polish.
  
  and for what its worth I just apply wax by hand.

Flitz Metal Polish for the bore; Break Free CLP for the inside of the gun; and FrogLube paste as an exterior protectant.

On my Glocks I usually use one of THESE. (I throw the slotted tip and the jag away, and use only the brush with cotton patches (occasionally) wrapped around it.)

NOTHING CLEANS A PISTOL BARREL, ABOVE 22 CALIBER, FASTER OR BETTER - NOTHING!

I, also, keep a carbon steel, 'Squirrel Daddy' Miniature Glock Tool in the handle along with a thin-bladed, narrow profile screwdriver.

I carry; so I clean my Glock BEFORE I leave the range and won't holster a dirty pistol that hasn't also been function checked. I've been working on guns for 50 + years; and I use them hard. At one time, or another I've seen it all. These guys who like to brag and post crap about (almost) never cleaning their Glocks are just plain IGF idiots; and I'm sure that Smyrna would tell them so, too.

Neither is there any good or necessary reason, whatsoever, to leave the Loctite C5-A Anti-Seize Compound (the, 'gold-colored grease') inside your Glock after you've purchased it and brought it home. The C5-A is there to: (1) Protect a Glock from corrosion between the dissimilar metals of the slide and connector tab during PROLONGED distributor storage, and (2) guarantee that a new, possibly uncleaned, and unlubricated Glock pistol will go, 'Bang!' the first time it is used.

Once the Glock pistol is put into service and receives regular maintenance you no longer need the grease - Period.

Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.

A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.

Flitz metal polish is amazing. I have used it and it works incredibly well. Read the comments at Amazon.

Metal mesh... that's different... never seen one like that. Is there any stamp or marking on the chair? The color tells me it's from the mid-60s, maybe later, but closer to 1965 if I had to guess.

As for the legs, I'd try a gentle buffing with 0000 (superfine) steel wool. It wil remove the rust without scratching the metal. After that's done, you can try a non-abrasive metal polish to give it a light shine. My favorite is a treated cotton wadding polish called "Nevr Dull." It's been around a long time. Rub the metal down with it, remove the excess polish with a clean cloth, and then gently wash the metal with a damp, soapy sponge and dry it.

Good luck! Nice find!

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

DON'T USE A PRESSURE WASHER!!!!

But before you clean your bike, go ahead and clean and lube your chain FIRST. Then, give the bike a quick spin for a few miles. That way any excess chain lube doesn't splatter all over your fresh detail job.

Wait for your bike to cool down (20-30 minutes on a 70 degree day)

Then just get a bucket of soapy water, and a sponge or clean soft rag and wipe your bike down. You can pretty much use that for every surface, but start with the painted bits, then move to things like the engine and wheels. After that I usually just wipe it down with another clean rag and some fresh clean water. Then I dry the bike with a chamois. After that I use a product called SC1 to give it that show room sparkle. Follow the directions on the can. It's pretty much just spray the crap all over and let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off with a soft clean dry rag.

It's a lot more involved than going to the drive through car wash, but your baby is worth it!

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

Meguair’s new Hybrid Ceramic Wax is pretty awesome, cheap, and readily available. I think you’ll dig it.

Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Ceramic Wax, 26 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TVdxCbTKAMTDF

I tried it on one vehicle, and Adams new Ceramic Spray Coating on another. Don’t know about longevity yet, but the Meguair’s seems better at first impression. Better gloss and hydrophobicity. Easier to apply also, though Adams Ceramic isn’t difficult by any means.

Are you talking about this? If so, that's completely nonabrasive.

wouldn't bother applying that. If you just did a full correction you should just need to apply a final layer of wax/sealant to really achieve that last 10% of the look. A glaze doesn't serve much purpose at your stage.

I don't know where you can wash your bike in that area, but I wanted to say that you might consider a waterless bike wash.

For example, this is a car product that works wonderfully on bikes. You just need to have a few clean rags or a supply of absorbent paper towels:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Waterless-Wash/dp/B006FUT0CS

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415075546&sr=8-1&keywords=flitz


This stuff works wonders. I use it to take off surface rust on my swords and knives. It smells terrible, but it's non-toxic, food safe, and most importantly, non-abrasive. It uses some sort of proprietary chemical effect to react and lift off iron oxide(rust) without damaging any actual steel. It's pretty awesome stuff, and one bottle will last you years.

Not sure how much you are willing to spend, but this Amazon store seems willing to ship worldwide.

Is this the wax you use?

To disinfect, I soak in Dettol Disinfectant. Immerse in lukewarm water and add hot water slowly to raise the temp and let it sit for an hour...

To clean, I use a soft toothbrush and dish washing liquid...


To polish, I use Flitz to make it shine...



By the way, be gentle when cleaning the "numbers", some of the black paint on mine flaked off unlike my Slims and Fatboys...

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.

Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.

First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:

• 2x buckets + grit guards
  
• ONR concentrate (1 Gal. bottle)
  
• Big Red Sponge
  
• Mother's 07240 Calif. gold clay bar + instant detailer bottle kit
  
• Opti-Seal (20239) 8oz. bottle with applicator sponge
  
• Costco MF towels
  
• Aliexpress stuff: few MF sponges, couple of high gsm/edgeless mf towels to try out.
  
  Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
  
  I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
  
  Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
  
  I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
  
  I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
  
  The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
  
  
• scratch close up (https://i.imgur.com/glgivGd.jpg?1) (taken with 1:1 macro lens, so looks rather thick, it really isn't)
  
• Bird bomb #1 (https://i.imgur.com/wlK9j7J.jpg?1)
  
• Bird bomb #2 (https://i.imgur.com/FsUQBm4.jpg)
  
• Bird bomb #3 (https://i.imgur.com/vE5j9IM.jpg?1)
  
• Leaf etching (https://i.imgur.com/wIm1I2v.jpg?1)
  
• black dot with white 'halo' discoloration (https://i.imgur.com/oj9Tili.jpg?1)
  
  What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
  
  Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?

I use a clay bar kit I got from the store, I figured it's just clay - nothing fancy. You can use water or a quick detailer as a lubricant, I personally use Griot's Garage Speed Shine.

For waxing, I do a layer of Jescar Power Lock Plus sealant, wait a day, then add a layer of Collinite 845 which should give it lasting protection.

Visit /r/autodetailing, they have fantastic tutorials and tips for beginners to those looking to go more advanced.

Since you're looking at refurbing one and using the other, I'll offer the following insight:

• For cleaning, I like to first see what I can get off with a 1:1 Water:White Vinegar solution. Sometimes this is enough to get the grime off. If you notice that there are some shallow scratches, you can try using some high grit (1000 - 4000) sandpaper to even things out. For a polished finish, I'll start with Flitz, followed by Turtle Wax, buffed to a shine by either a microfiber cloth or a Dremel polishing cloth.
  
• For using the other brush as-is, pick up some Barbicide from Amazon or a local Sally's Beauty Supplies and mix one capful with 2 cups of water. Be *really* careful with this stuff, if it gets on your hands or clothes at full strength, you're going to have a bad time. I used some spare vinyl dishwashing gloves for safety. Soak the hair (but not the handle if you can manage) for 8-10 minutes. Immediately rinse well under running water and wash with baby shampoo. Let air dry. That should be enough to kill most anything left over from the brush's previous owner.

Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon $11.30 for next 8hrs

Tape off the entire fretboard with masking tape so only the frets are showing. It's also a good idea to tape off the neck pickups so the dust doesn't go to the pickup magnets. I would also tape off the sides of the neck to be extra careful in-case you accidentally scratch it with sand paper.

Then use sand paper to polish the frets. I work my way up 400, 600, 1000, 2000 grit. You only want to gently sand the surface to take off any scratches from the wound strings or fret rust.

You might have to use a paper towel to wipe off the metal dust in between.

After 2000 grit the frets will be very smooth but dull. Then I finish off with Nevr-Dull metal polishing compound. It takes off any remaining metal dust and brings it to a shine.

https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478898952&sr=8-1&keywords=never-dull+metal+polish

I got this method from Davey4557 on youtube. He repairs guitars for a living. He also doesn't recommend using steel wool on your guitar, search for steel wool to find out why.

https://www.youtube.com/user/davey4557

As long as you tape off the fretboard, are gentle, and patient I don't think you could screw it up using this method.

Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ttQUCbWAR2RRA

I disagree with some of what has been said here. To me, it depends on your paint and your car. Is it hard or soft? Is it a DD or a garage queen?

On my DD, which has hard paint, if I wash it, and it has a dusting of pollen on it in a day or two, I will wipe it down with a waterless wash or ONR or AMMO Hydrate.

I use a MFs folded into quarters, which gets 8 wipes per towel. Spray product on the paint and the towel and wipe super softly. Use 6 or 7 MFs on the entire car, or just a couple if I’m spot treating.

If it’s more than pollen, learning to do a quick, 2 bucket rinseless wash with ONR will save you time over a traditional wash, once you master it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00353PWAW?pc_redir=1398242581&robot_redir=1

Just a lightweight silicone oil, probably easiest to use a spray polish. Gives a good wet-look sheen, non-volatile, doesn't rub off too easily. This stuff is good and cheap if you don't mind the new-car smell: https://amzn.to/2Nj13I6 Alternatively, this gives a wet shine to latex or plastics: https://amzn.to/2ICKWV6

My Norinco 1911 had a very gritty slide, so I bought some of this stuff (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MUG95UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and applied dabs of it to where the rails and worked the slide for about 10 minutes. Smoothed it right out. I also did a bit of dremel work to clean up the inside with a buffing attachment. These are things that would work themselves about eventually with use, but it speeds up the breaking in.

Exact same deal on my red NA. Had a car bra on for who knows how long, though mine is more of an even fade than this kinda splotchy deal.

I've heard Zymol works wonders restoring red Miata paint. I just ordered some today and I'm going to try it out in the next few days. I can let ya know how it goes.

Luckily the original paint is a single stage enamel so apparently you can buff the shit out of it to bring it back to life. So if Zymol doesn't work, a good detailing shop can probably get it looking great again without having to repaint.

Similar to what Justniz posted, I had some scratches on my lenses and picked up this stuff NOVUS 2 Plastic Find Scratch remover. You put a small dab on the lens and rub it in a circle pattern for about 2 minutes with a clean microfiber cloth until the lens is clear again. Was a bit scary at first but it worked out and my lenses look brand new again.
I am now cleaning the dust out of the headset regularly to avoid any future issues, although the repair stuff works well so it's less of a concern.

I think I understand what you're trying to ask. My suggestion is to get Meguiar's cleaner wax http://amzn.to/21qSmhK . I'm assuming you're a novice in detailing. This product is perfect for that maintenance job of just lightly polishing the surface.

This is how the pros do it. And, they use Flitz.

LOL i had the same issue. Turns out that the back camera has a coating, which makes pictures all blurry. Get some polish and with a qtip clean the camera glass. Sadly i figured this out too late, i though the coating was more of a peel so i tried taking it out, turns out i was pulling the glass.

something like this

If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181

If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M

Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.

It was a long day, but I'll try to get all the steps:

1. Pressure wash rinse
   
2. Foam Cannon with this soap: Meguiar's D11101 Shampoo Plus, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EZICII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oxzpDb7HHDC15
   
3. Rinse soap with pressure washer
   
4. Foam Cannon a second time
   
5. Hand wash
   
6. Rinse with pressure washer
   
7. Clay bar entire car using this as lubricant for claybar: Meguiar's A3332 Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TzzpDbE2QMHHC
   
8. Pressure wash rinse.
   
9. Mist car if necessary to make whole thing wet again
   
10. Hand dry
    
11. Pull car into garage
    
12. Use this soap for all black components (grill, fog light area, side mirrors, rear near exhaust, louvers): MEGUIAR'S D16001 All Season Dressing - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xBzpDbQMV3FRF
    
13. Using dual action buffer, apply this to whole car (then wipe off) : Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aEzpDbQP8ACGE
    
14. After compound do the same with this: Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DEzpDbMMQPD91
    
15. After the polish do the same with this: Meguiar'S Liquid Wax 16 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVFF8ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFzpDbTP1418C
    
16. Remove carpets and vaccuum
    
17. Shampoo and vaccum footwells and carpets. (I forget what product we used but it wasn't meguiars lol)
    
18. Apply the following to whole car by hand then wipe off: Meguiar's G18309 Ultimate Fast Finish, 8.5 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP6PXT7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QHzpDbPFJ8HMD
    
19. Polished the exhaust with this: California Custom Purple Metal Polish 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MNKM9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1IzpDbTHWF6B9
    
    
    I feel obligated to say that I'm not associated with Meguiar's at all. I was doing all this with my brother who's a detailing enthusiast and he's a bit of a fan boy.
    
    Also I don't have a ton of details on the rest of the interior because my brother started that before I arrived.
    
    All in all it was about 5 hours, with some time spent on the interior before I arrived we also spent some time fixing up some stuff like mounting the window louvres and making the exhaust hang even in the back.

Yes, this

As said I wouldn't let it drip dry and streak. Also would never use actual rub-on wax.

Paint might look a little more flat with using only windex, but it definitely doesn't leave it shiny or anything. And it does a way better job.

I've been using Chemical Guys' Silk Shine Dressing for tires, rubber, and plastic. It works rather well IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q

Definitely looking into this. Is the Pinnacle brand better than Meguiar's version? Pinnacle requires an additional shipping cost on Amazon, but Meguiar's doesn't, so I'm kind of leaning that way.

However, it looks like the Meguiar's doesn't have carnauba wax in it. Is that a big deal if I have the Quik Detailing Spray and the Quik Wax spray bottles? If it is a big enough deal, I don't mind shopping locally and getting the Pinnacle. I had some Amazon GCs, but I can spend that on something else down the road.

I literally bought a 36 pack of Amazon branded microfiber cloths that had good reviews, so I'll be looking into the rag company's products once I burn through the Amazon. Too late to send it back at this point without being killed on shipping, lol.

hey! sorry for the crazy long delay in responding. lost access at work, and since i do IT, i just never feel like sitting down at home.

I have a hilinski board. bought it early last year. he recommended pure carnuba, so i picked up a can of the mothers carnuba wax (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O)

i generally put on a coat, wait 15 or so min then wipe it off. i have a feeling i'm applying it too heavy, but i don't know, it just never slides right. John said yours were crazy fast, and thats obviously what i want.

next week, right?

I use the wash and wax spray anywhere stuff, no need to wash every time you take her out. Works good when your in a rush. Otherwise Ill wash it down and give it a good hand wash with soap and water and use a leaf blower to dry. Heres a link to some of the spray I was talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Wash-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396018452&sr=8-1&keywords=car+wash+spray+no+water

Thanks!! I dont do anything special really. Just a good hand wash with a soft mit, then dry it, and then a good coat of wax. I did, however, just buy this and this was my first time using it and it is awesome. Really brought out the shine! buffer and since i needed a liquid wax, this is what I got and it worked awesome! wax

For the inside, just vacuumed and cleaned all the windows and your normal dash cleaning stuff.

All in all, I think just keeping up with cleaning it worked best in keeping it looking good. In the winter I made sure to spray it off every week or so to remove any salt.

Hope this helps!!

> What kind of soap should I use?

Any regular cheapo car wash soap. DON'T use the wash + wax products though they're pretty much shit.

> Is Armour All a good choice for the dash?

No, it's a crappy product. In my experience using a bit of warm water and a dedicated vinyl cleaner have worked well.

> What should I use on the wheels?

A separate car wash mitt and separate soapy bucket from your body washing bucket.

> Should I just use old towels to dry, or is there something better?

No, go to autozone and stock up on towels, and get a couple paper bags to separate the towels by function. Only use your drying towel for drying, your waxing towel for waxing, glass towel, and interior towels. Do not mix these up, you wouldn't want to wipe wax or vinyl cleaner all over your windshield.

> Is it safe to use my power washer (electric) on my car, or is it too strong?

Mostly likely too strong. I know guys who peeled paint on their bumper doing it.

> Are there any techniques for making the wash faster/easier/better?

Just keep up with regular cleaning maintenance and it will be easier. Do the full cycle of wash, clay, and wax your car about twice a year, and it will be easier on you every time.

>Ok that doesn't sound too bad or expensive, actually sounds kind of fun, maybe I'll make it a hobby, supplement my income or use some to trade my RAD might get in the way of that though.

Danger! This way be dragons. :)

>Where can you get those polishes, I have never seen those particular ones?

I buy them locally at an ACE Hardware, but if you can't find them locally you can get them on Amazon: Flitz and Maas

>Also how did I do value wise, are any of those valuable or anything? Did I spend too much?

Let's see...

I think you took a bit of a bath on the third lot with the Red Tip. The Techmatic doesn't get any love because it's not all that pleasant to shave with and even if it were it's not exactly easy to find replacement cartridges for it. The Valet Auto-Strop is also not going to bring a whole lot. They're not bad shavers, and that gold one at least can take regular SE blades if you pop the spine off of them, but they're basically filler razors that people use to pad out lots. If you get into collecting at all seriously you should basically value them at $0 when you're figuring what you're willing to pay for a lot because you'll end up with a shoebox of them without even trying.

Take that other lot, for example. The way I'd look at that grouping is to immediately discount the Christie and the clippers as just somebody else's junk. That particular Auto-Strop requires special SE blades with a knockout inside the blade, so it's even less desirable than usual. So you're left with the Flare Tip Super Speed, the Ever-Ready 1924-patent "Shovelhead," and the brush. The razors are both good shavers, although the Super Speed is missing at least one end cap -- not an issue from a functional standpoint, but it hurts its value. The brush looks like a decent little travel brush. The old knot is probably shot (though maybe not) but it might be worth reknotting it if the handle were nice enough.

Still, you're only into the lot for $25 shipped, which is fine unless you're looking to flip any of it. Figure about $10 each for the Super Speed (dinged for condition) and the 1924, a couple bucks for the brush, and a couple bucks for postage and you're at fair money.

I'd say the other two Super Speeds are about the same -- decent prices for your own use, not great if you're looking to resell them.

I bought and used the Zymol recently and was rather pleased. I haven't put anything on after that yet though.

Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon 20% off and on sale for $16 at Amazon.

The glaze I use is very easy to apply. You literally just put it onto a microfiber cloth or something, rub it on the car, and then rub it off, then wax. Very simple and definitely worth the results if you have a dark car. And it doesn't leave any white spots like wax does if you miss a spot. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

Try to go easy on the cleaning chemicals when possible. Simple green should work fine on most of the exterior. Magic erasers can be good for stubborn or stained control panels, side art or general trouble spots, but be warned they do tend to take some of the paint off especially on old art. Novus 2 is a fantastic polisher for just about anything plastic, can work on rusted metal too if you want to tumble some parts. Goo gone (NOT goof off!) is great for removing old adhesives if you need to replace a CP or side art and take off some old glue underneath. Any glass cleaner is fine for the monitor (CRT!) screens, use simple green or a light cleaner on the plexiglass bezels or around art on the underside of a glass marquee. If you have some stained or smelly particle board inside your cabinet, white vinegar and a scrubbing brush can take out some of the smell and discoloration.

Those are the main tools I use, I'm sure each collector has their own set of favorites.

After you get it as clean as possible, spray it with detailing spray, it works wonders. This stuff; Maxima SC1

Brand new to auto detailing. I'm a little overwhelmed, but I think I'm ready to start.

My plan is to wash, decon, wash, clay, and finally seal.

• Wash - Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon
  
  
• Decon - CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent - 500ml
  
  
• Wash again
  
  
• Clay - Meguiar's G10240 Smooth Surface XL Clay Kit, 240 grams
  
  
• Seal - Jescar Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant 16 oz
  
  I've decided to not get into polishing right now. I do have some scratches and blemishes that I'm trying to ignore for now. Can I address these down the road or will I be making a mistake by sealing before polishing? I know of a good polisher, there are just so many choices for cutting/polishing solutions and pads that I want to avoid polishing for now.
  
  Please tell me where I'm wrong/what I can do to improve.
  
  Thanks!

There is a product call never dull, for any chrome and steel.

https://www.amazon.ca/Nevr-Dull-L-5-Ounce/dp/B00097CRY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=62792834802&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImszGzczN4wIVzZ-zCh1crgm3EAAYASAAEgLc7_D_BwE&hvadid=310058773424&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1002604&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6306287711392518763&hvtargid=kwd-299414274150&hydadcr=22536_10308499&keywords=never-dull&qid=1563972779&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For black plastic use soft soap.

Hope i help you.

hit it with a few coats of this and dry it off when wet

Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Easy to Use Ceramic Wax Protection-G190526, 26 oz https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62omDb5825XQF

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

You can also try Flitz does wonder on shallow marks. Cleaned up the top of a used hybrid I bought.

I like Flitz polish. It works great for so much.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447VB2/

Also https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6MNRU and/or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TV6DLU

Combine with a drill and you should be able to get that sparkling.

However, another potential option would be the tried and true when something needs some tough love: http://brillo.com/products-2014.asp

5.95 for a can. Turtle Wax is soo generous.

Oh i didn't realize there was a difference between polishing compound and rubbing compound. Would this work?

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_14OHDbVERDVNV

Nevr Dull cleaned that right up for me. Also works great on the bumpers.

Meguiar's GC soap 1 Gallon pretty cheap right now on amazon.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7101FFP-Gold-Class-Wash/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=meguiar+gold+class+soap&qid=1567699331&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Use a high-grit sandpaper and follow it up with a plastic polish like Novus 2.

I did that with mine and you can barely tell.

Is it ok to use this shampoo on my car's windows?

SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | Mirror Polish Your Spinner: Level 2
Description | Today we try our hand a little more involved spinner polishing. We aren't just polishing flat surfaces y'all! Want to get in on the action? Quick links down below. Assorted set of Sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZVWBT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pbTlzb65TH4NK Higher grit sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013W44ESY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vcTlzbJ5S0QN3 Flitz Metal Polish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yGkpzbNPZ3GRY
Length | 0:11:58






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Everyone does it differently but we all probably use the same product called Nesquik Instant Coffee. Generally brew up a batch at room temperature with distilled water. Boiling it turns allot of the acids into base and well water has allot of minerals in it.

Basic ferric chloride etch to get an even base coat going. I'll generally neutralize with Windex. Then clean the oxides off with a cotton makeup pad with a dab of Green Flitz. Making sure its all even. If not repeat.

Then as simple as dropping it in the coffee and checking every 5-10 minutes since it etches slow. Repeated etching intervals of 5 minutes with a quick Windex neutralization and light makeup surface wiping to continually remove the surface oxides will get you there. (No Flitz if your going for dark until your set on the color since it will drop it a shade)

The finer the grind the darker an etch will take.

But as I said before ultimately it all comes down to the steel to achieve a full black etch. There's just not enough Manganese in 1080 and 1095. Without using something like a blueing agent it'll always be closer to a deep grey. Steels like D2, 5160, 1084, and 80CRV2 all have a higher Manganese content which allows for a deeper darker etch. There are others I just can't remember them off the top of my head.

Personally, I'd be too lazy to take on the job of stripping the clear coat or varnish of an aluminum frame, and then having to polish it. Instead I'd just use auto products like a liquid cleaner/wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid-Protects/dp/B0002NYE5M/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=meguiars+cleaner+wax&qid=1557325079&s=automotive&sr=1-7

It cleans off most crap, hides fine scratches, and overall does an awesome job of making bikes finishes look newer.

https://smile.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=Flitz%2BPolish&qid=1556752685&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

Here’s the link for the one I use, I use it both with a buffing bit for my dremel and manually with a microfiber cloth. I told someone else today that the dremel option is great if you’re impatient (like me.), and it will give you a beautiful shine just like that, but I personally think that rubbing it really hard on a microfiber cloth by hand makes it shinier sometimes, but even when I do use the dremel I like to give it a few rubs on the microfiber cloth afterwards as well, I feel like it helps. I’m not completely certain of how well it will “cover up” the seem in your pieces, but it does shine up the scuffs I sometimes get in my resin jewelry pieces, so I feel like it will at least help to cover it a little bit!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0

This is the stuff I used. Picked it up at Harbor Freight when I went to get the orbital buffer. It is supposed to be a polish/wax replacement but I'm not sure what it really is (i.e. wax, glaze, polish). Worked amazing though.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I store 8 bikes in mine. Never a problem. Though if you'd like to keep it looking clean, I can't recommend this enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Silicone-Spray-12oz/dp/B000WK5PWQ

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

I have used the car wash, it does a good job. Sometimes you need to add a little more than they rec if its got stuck on stuff. The wax is amazing in my opinion.

It also cleans as it goes and it smells great. I have the quick detailer for spot cleaning but I find it to be a bit of a pain top wipe off evenly.

> Opti-Seal

This stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-20239-Opti-Seal-Foam-Applicator/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521835674&sr=1-1&keywords=opti-seal

Should I buy a foam applicator?

You should use some pure carnauba wax on the boards. Most people recommend Mothers. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483199201&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+pure+carnauba+wax

I got my board from Muzzies, and Murray suggested that I use https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6. It's a blend, and he finds it works best on his surface.

Flitz

https://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-NEVER-DULL-POLISH/dp/B00097CRY6

This shit right here. Wear gloves.

Hey guys,

If you look at the exhaust straight on, there's so much carbon build up. I live in the Bay Area where it's been sunny so the outside of it looks shiny! Once rain starts, it'll be messy like the rest. It's an aftermarket exhaust as well.

I always keep this and a microfiber in my car so I can wipe away gunk that gets on my car.

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-11146SP-Speed-Detailer/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505861830&sr=8-1&keywords=griots+garage

No. That's a Cleaner Wax. You want the wax without the cleaner. It says Step 3 on the car and has a blue band on it. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=asc_df_B0002U2V1O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312279483767&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14297052339886462749&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006600&hvtargid=pla-422424326058&psc=1

Mirror Glaze 7 with a wool buffing pad after you wash it clean

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

don't let the buffer sit in one place or buff dry

you might need to follow up with swirl remover polish because its black

and don't try to get every last scratch out like others are saying you can burn through the clear

Flitz polish

Flitz BP 03511 Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish with Paint Restorer, 1.76-Ounce, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DJEdBbTT9ZPF3

Use a standard AR-15 cleaning rod and load up some barrel swabs (or just cut up a t-shirt) with it and just run it back and forth until desired smoothness is reached. I use flitz on my real bolt actions to polish the bolt/receiver so they cycle smoothly.

Posting here as I didn't see the rules the first time round..

Hi guys. I'm not a professional detailer, just a guy looking to keep his used car in good shape. I'm also totally new to cleaning and maintaining a car.

My current method to clean the car is to take it to a coin operated self-wash shops. After this I just usually wipe down the car with clean microfiber and drive away. I'm looking to use a product that reduces water stains and streaks and keeps the car a bit shiny. I came across these two on amazon:

1. Optimum Opti-seal
   
2. Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish
   
   Which one of these is more recommended? AFAIK I can also use Opti-seal as a drying agent and on interior surfaces too. Because of this I'm slightly inclined to opti-seal. Do you guys also think this is a better product of the two?
   
   I'm open to other recommendations also :)

Others have offered good info, but here's my contribution. Get some of this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS

You won't believe how it will make the wraps and chrome look. I restore drums, and I'm currently on my 5th or 6th bottle of the stuff.

Then take your pictures of the kit in natural light. 14" floor toms are a desirable size, as is red sparkle wrap.

Good luck!

First off thanks redditors for the input. The reason I wanted the wet look is because I put armor all on my dash one time (which I was told after is bad for it, so I ceased using it) and I liked how it looked alot haha. What does everyone think about The Chemical Guys Silk Shine Sprayable Dressing?

I also liked the meguiars product line and I think I will check out those wipes they have to keep in the trunk.

I used this stuff with a microfiber. Didn't take long at all and came out really nicely. I was just amazed at how much soot built up in a few months.

Thanks for the advice. I did a test spot where the decal was dark blue and once removed had underlying spider cracks (very small but noticeable). I used 1500 grit with a very slow speed on the DA polisher with light pressure and lots of water. The cracks were gone when I finished (it did not take long). After sanding I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with an orange pad rated at 3000 grit. I had a reasonable starting point to polish and wax from there, I believe. The surface looked quite smooth to me. The only spots getting sanded are where the spider cracks are from the deep blue/dark color decals. I have read where I could do a full wet sand starting with 1000 up through 3000 and then you would not be able to tell where the decals started and ended. I am not that good nor do I want to spend that amount of time.

I will post some before and after pictures of each stage. I am going to finish up with Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Wax.

which speed wax do people prefer? meguirs or lucas


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT5JVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYE5M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.

As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.

I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.

Do Not Use Scotchbrite pads or sandpaper as a poster below suggested, you want to be as gentle as you can be. Use Flitz a very gentle polish. use it sparingly!
http://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BU-03515-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B001447VB2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416656541&sr=8-1&keywords=flitz+metal+polish+tube

First of all, lay off the racism. Second, that is spray paint. Try using cleaning wax and see if that takes it off.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-A1216-Cleaner-Wax-Liquid/dp/B0002NYE5M