(Part 2) Best home theater audio products according to redditors

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We found 8,434 Reddit comments discussing the best home theater audio products. We ranked the 969 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Home audio receivers & amplifiers
Audio equalizers
Soundbars
Phono preamps
Home theater speakers

Top Reddit comments about Home Theater Audio:

u/sharkamino · 20 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Sure, they are $120 new.

Alternatives:

Powered/Active: 4" Edifiers start at $70. Edifier R980T or larger 5" Swan D1080-IV $140 or Fluance Ai40 $200

Amp+Passive:

$53 Bundle 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier

Mini amps:

Kinter K2020A $33. SMSL SA50 $67, Dayton Audio DTA-120BT $75, Micca OriGain $80 or $100 with USB DAC, more at Zeos AMP and DAC guide.

Speakers:

AverageJoe's Speaker List

Polk Audio T15 $50

Micca MB42X $80

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 4" Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) $68 or if sale is over, PIONEERSP-BS22-LR $90

Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker $73

DIY C-notes $100

Clearance sale dual 5.25" Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series $100

Speaker wire and self adjusting wire strippers or basic.

Subwoofer:

Franklin Audio FPS10 10" 100 Watt Powered Subwoofer $90 with $10 off coupon

u/theimponderablebeast · 19 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

KEF Q100 ($250)

Micca AD250 DAC/Amp ($100)

Micca speaker wire ($20)

Dayton SUB-1000 ($120)

3.5mm to RCA cable (for sub) ($8)

Total: $498

This would be a solid, solid setup for really fantastic value.

u/callesucia · 17 pointsr/Android

I think Fiio just released something like this that can play audio with any Bluetooth codec available and it also has a CLIP on it. I'd look for it but I'm sleepy, so link will wait until tomorrow.

Hmm, so /u/rushatgc's notification woke me up. Here's the link.

u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/SmittyJonz · 15 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/drewbug01 · 12 pointsr/smarthome

I went the route of a cheap amp and Chromecast Audio for each zone:

  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZSEFU94?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
  • https://store.google.com/us/product/chromecast_audio

    You need to use apps that support casting audio, but most apps do (Spotify, YouTube, pandora, etc). Apple Music is a no-go but that’s not surprising. The google home app lets you set up cast groups- so you can play zones independently or in whatever groups you want. I have “master suite”, “great room,” and “whole house” groups set up, for example.

    The other nice thing about these amps is that the auto sensing input works fine with the Chromecast audio’s line level output, so you don’t waste power running the amp with no input.

    One potential wrinkle is that you want to play TV as well... that could significantly complicate matters. I chose not to have the ability to distribute TV audio. My surround amp actually has a built in Chromecast so I could add it as a zone to the whole home audio system, but it was rather complicated to distribute TV audio out to other rooms of the house (possible, but difficult). I personally figured I wouldn’t need that often so didn’t build for it.

    The only other change I did was remove the in-wall volume controls. They are nice, but were old and damaged and distorting the sound in odd ways. I set the amp volume to the max I’d want, and just use the Chromecast volume for any adjustments (which is cool too because my google home can turn it down too!).

    Hope that gives you alternate ideas!
u/cmasterflex · 12 pointsr/hometheater

This is what you are going to do

SMSL Q5 Pro Digital Amplifier - $120

ELAC - Debut B6 - $280

total: $400

leaves $200 from your budget to get cables, wall mounts for speakers, or a subwoofer. Or just put it all into bigger speakers.

With this setup you still have good viewing of the fireplace, but the entertainment system is not compromised. Also it leaves room for growth.

Or you can go here and mix and match whatever looks good to you.

u/whiprush · 11 pointsr/hometheater

I'm a fan of a Yamaha with Pioneer Andrew Jones speakers, great value all around, this is what I recommend to people who are starting out:

u/the_hamsterman · 9 pointsr/audiophile

I've always found that those systems with the subwoofer rely too much on the sub, which makes everything boomy. Others might have different experience, but i'd suggest going with something that is just 2.0. In that budget, i think you could find the m-audio av30 or something similar.

Another idea is to get a Dayton DTA-1 and a set of Dayton B652 speakers. I have this in my bedroom right now and it is perfect for music. Very well balanced..

If you do want that subwoofer, people on here have said good things about the klipsch promedia 2.1 set, which is a little over your budget, but you might be able to find used/refurb deals online.

u/Happy_or_Hangry · 9 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

$98 - all time low for Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P.r3Db6YXFW69

u/IesaAR117 · 8 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Have you considered bluetooth? FiiO's BTR3 is LDAC compatible and (in the best circumstances) the compression should be unnoticeable and the sound should be as good as any other wired DAC at this price. Plus you can use it wired for your phone and PC. The Mi8 came out with android 8, so it will be LDAC capable. £55 worth taking a look-

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Headphone-Amp/dp/B07FVN14FH

u/ChicksDigNerds · 8 pointsr/headphones

If you have to crank volume that loud then, yes, you would benefit from an amp. May I suggest a bluetooth DAC/amp that also has USB DAC functionality from FiiO. It's not the most technically impressive, not the loudest thing on the planet, but it certainly covers a fair bit of use-cases: USB DAC for your laptop/phone AND bluetooth DAC/amp for either laptop or phone.

u/dlstriker · 8 pointsr/googlehome

I really like the Chomecast Audios.
I use them with these amps
and these speakers 1 2
. All work really well together

u/Armsc · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are some thoughts on this.

  1. Using two Bose speakers isn't going to work well and will be expensive.

  2. You'll be better off with a soundbar...yep I know bring the hate but of the two it's the better option.

  3. $200 is going to be hard but if you have variable RCA audio outputs then you can put together a budget 2.0 setup. You'll want to check your TV.

    Here are a few options to consider.

  • Soundbar - Yamaha YAS-107 $200, Yamaha ATS-1060 refurb $130 - These Yamaha's sound good on their own except for the extreme low end. However, they have the ability to add in a power subwoofer to them. I like this because the sub is not proprietary and can be used with future systems. If you're in a smaller space these will actually do alright on their own.

  • Soundbar - Sony HTCT80 $100 - Basic soundbar with a wired sub (my preference for simplicity) that will sound much better than the TV. Is this a great solution no but it will work and is very cost effective. For music it's going to be muh but for HT use in a small room it will do fine.

  • 2.0 - SMSL Q5 Pro amp $130, Micca MB42x speakers $90 and speaker wire- Slightly over budget but this will get you on the path to a much better system. This amp has an optical input so you can use it with any TV. The bookshelf speakers can be spread out to get you a better soundstage. The low end will lack but you can fix that later with a sub. You'll also need either an RCA cable to 3.5mm or an optical cable to get the signal into the amp.

  • 2.0 - SMSL SA-50, speaker wire (above) $10 and a set of BIC DV62 $120 - Larger speakers will get you better bass but you'll have to see if you have space for them. You'll also need to have those variable analog audio outputs and an RCA cable to feed the amp.

  • 2.1 - This is going to be tight and you'll need the analog outputs from the TV but this will get you good results. Lepai 168HA $30, BIC DV32 $60, Dayton Sub800 $100, and some speaker wire $10. You'll also need an RCA cable (those are cheap).
u/polypeptide147 · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You said your budget is around $300 but is flexible.

If you can flex it up just a bit, I think the KEF Q150 would be a fantastic choice. They're my favorite nearfield speakers. At $300, they take up your entire budget, and you still need an amp.

Something like this SMSL amplifier would definitely work, but depending on how flexible you are, this Sony receiver is on sale for $100 for black Friday.

u/memebuster · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Check the resistance and wattage of the old speakers. If compatible with a regular receiver clip the ends off and wire them up. I hazard to guess she's not too picky, get her a cheap Yamaha.

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UBggzbYSTQJPZ

u/ripkenkid8 · 7 pointsr/hometheater

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

u/Mathias787 · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

u/segfaultxr7 · 6 pointsr/Chromecast

Honestly, unless you were to use a Class A amp (which runs at full throttle no matter what), it's probably not worth worrying about.

I bought this class T amp, and although it doesn't have auto-off, the idle power consumption is absolutely negligible. I can't tell the difference between on or off with my Kill-A-Watt, which is accurate down to 0.1 watt. I pretty sure the same is true of all Class T amps; they really don't use any power unless they're actively making sound. Mine is perched on top of my kitchen cabinets and has been on for the past year.

I found the same thing with my subwoofer. Although it has an auto mode, it would keep turning on and off at very low volumes. I measured how much extra power it would use if I forced it to always be on. No difference whatsoever, 0.2 watts either way.

u/the_blue_wizard · 6 pointsr/audio

Two quick and easy options -

1.) Bluetooth Receivers - these are no that expensive, and will allow you to connect your phone to the Amp WIRELESSLY, and you can play as long as your phone is within 30feet. You can find many of these on Amazon US or UK or anywhere. They are very common and very reasonable priced.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B00LAZ6RTW

2.) Headphone Out - Get a simple 3.5mm Stereo cable to two RCA connectors. Plug the 3.5mm into the Headphone Jack of the Phone and the RCA into one of the unused inputs on the amp. Select the Input on the Amp Selector Switch, and adjust the volume until you can hear the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/AIFFECT-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Adapter/dp/B01GZRMO7S

u/dr_torque · 6 pointsr/audiophile

New, you could consider the Monitor Audio Bronze speakers, or the Zensor 3's. There are also a pair of Monitor Silvers, which look to be in excellent nick, should you decide to reconsider your stand on used. You could pair it with the Yamaha A-S301 amp, or consider this Teac or indeed this NAD depending on the features you're looking for in an integrated amplifier.

u/gj80 · 6 pointsr/headphones

> are there bluetooth headphones that actually sound good?

I've been on a quest for actually good sounding bluetooth headphones myself recently, and the conclusion I came to was - no...not without some help.

Get this: ES100. Clip it to something (it's incredibly tiny and lightweight) + whatever headphones you want (if the cables are swappable, then look for some short ones... Fiio makes some short MMCX cables for instance). Bam, any headphone you want is now bluetooth at basically its full potential. It drives everything I've tested it with amazingly well (quite a bit better than my Schiit Fulla, at any rate) and sounds amazing.

If you will also be using the headphones for gaming or movies/TV, then instead get the BTR3 ... the ES100 is slightly better (more gain, more firmware updates, more configurable options, etc) overall for AptX-HD music playback (or LDAC, or AAC), but it doesn't support AptX-LL (low latency) mode, which is important for anything interactive. BTR3 supports all of those including AptX-LL. In low latency mode, I can just barely perceive a slight delay in terms of lip synchronization, but only just barely if I'm doing my best to look for it, and I might just be imagining it. For any casual media consumption or gaming bluetooth via AptX-LL, at least with the transmitter I'm using and this receiver, is good enough.

I've tested both of these with my Fiio FH5 and Etymotic ER4XR IEMs (both of which are quite resolving IEMs), and in both cases it sounds 100.00% indistinguishable to my ears compared to just plugging them into my smartphone. On the other hand, when I connected them via SBC codec using a USB bluetooth dongle, I could easily tell. Though, actually, even via SBC things still sounded better than I figured they would....goes to show that the default SBC codec isn't the only problem with most bluetooth headphones. Decent headphones via SBC still sound fairly decent, if not at their absolute best.

Oh, and the ES100 has an optional "high gain" mode, but even with that disabled, it gets me significantly higher volume if I pump it up to painful max levels (as a test) compared to the BTR3. The BTR3 was never too quiet at max volume for me, but if I had headphones that were hard to drive then that might sometimes be an issue.

u/NekoIan · 6 pointsr/Chromecast

I have one of these and leave it on all the time. Low power, amazing sound.

u/hack_tc · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I would personally look for something with a little more power. If i remeber right, 45w @ 4 ohms is really like 25w @ 8 ohms (which is what those speakers are). And you really cant get all your wattage out of those little amps without adding distortion anyways. Parts Express has the Dayton Audio DTA-120 on sale right now, for 85$. Its 40w @ 8ohm. There's also the APA100 (made by many manufacturers), and the Dayton APA150 for a little more. Or any 2.1/5.1 Receiver would be a better bet imo.

The Q5 Pro is a cool little amp (I use one myself), but it lacks in the power department.

As for the sub, you are correct. You dont need anything to power it.

That's a crazy deal on those towers, btw. I'm tempted to pick some up myself, haha

u/FULL_METAL_HOODIE · 6 pointsr/hometheater

It'll be cheaper to run a 7.2 receiver that has the ability to process 9 channels and add a 2 channel amp for the atmos speakers. You could use this refurbished Denon AVR-X4200W and this Audiosource Amp 100VS.

If you want a single piece of equipment: Yamaha RX-A2050 when it comes back in stock. You could get the 2060 if you don't want to wait.

Last option would be getting the Denon AVR-X4200W I mentioned before with a better stereo amp such as the Emotiva A-300. Then use the external amp for your main L/R speakers and use the 7 channels of amplification on the receiver for the rest of the setup.

u/pswii360i · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

You're going to need an amplifier to use them on your pc. I personally use a powered subwoofer that connects my speakers to my pc. You can find cheap amps on Amazon for like 20 bucks.

This one for example seems like it would work. Just plug your pc audio out into the audio input on the amp and connect the speakers via speaker wire to the terminals. I've used very similar devices with my bs22's and it worked great. You just may need an rca to 3.5mm adapter to connect your pc to the amp, like this one.

I'm bad at explaining things, if you have any more questions let me know!

u/spadmin · 5 pointsr/technology

And it’s so nice to not have to get tangled in wires.

At this point I don’t see what the benefit to wired is unless you have a $1000 headset

And if that’s the case there’s a $20 adapter to solve that issue

Etekcity Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Receiver Audio Adapter (NFC-Enabled) for Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F--LBbSP6KZJV

u/radddchaddd · 5 pointsr/vinyl

Copying the comment I posted in /r/malelivingspace

> Finally feeling like my living room is coming together. There’s still a few things I want to change up (standing lamp, speaker stands, and sub), but all the major stuff is complete.

> I posted previously on my bedroom (see here), and here’s my living room. I’ve been trying to keep clutter out of bedroom and living room since that’s where I’ve been spending most of my time.

> I figured questions about items is normally asked so here’s a list items that I anticipate being asked about:

> Console from Wayfair

> Coffee Table from Target

> Sofa -- sofa is 88” and I got it during the Memorial Day Weekend sale.

> Amplifier is the Yamaha A-S301BL

> If there is anything I missed, let me know.

To add, I have a U-Turn Orbit connected to a Yamaha integrated amp. Speakers are Micca MB42x and a cheap Sony sub (from Goodwill) that I intend to replace. Considering going for some standing speakers since I want to replace my speaker stands any way. If I do, the Miccas will go well with an office setup.

u/adayinalife · 5 pointsr/vinyl

At a bit over $500 here is what I would do, all great quality items and allows for sequential upgrades down the line:

MMF 2.2 $299 https://www.musicdirect.com/turntables/music-hall-mmf-22-turntable

Sony reciever (with phono) $149 https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH190-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B078WFDR8D/

Pioneer Andrew Jones speakers $99 https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG

u/WadeMoreau · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

FYI those Pioneers go on sale for $130 a pair new (although haven't been that price for a while). These are probably good and on sale for $130 as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH190-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B078WFDR8D

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audio-R-S202BL-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B01EMQI2CU

These have bluetooth built in but you can add lossless wifi streaming to anything with a $50 Chromecast Audio from eBay.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 5 pointsr/diyaudio

wait... you already have something transmitting bluetooth audio?

just get a headphone receiver and plug them COMTAC's right in!

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH/

this one's even got a battery. FiiO is a very well known brand for headphone amplifiers.

-

or you're looking for two-way communications via bluetooth?

u/sk9592 · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

Any way you slice it, $400 for this soundbar with Android TV built-in is a terrible deal.

My biggest problem with this soundbar is that you will be relying on JBL for software updates. This is a company with zero track record for software development and support. Until they can prove they are competent at this, it is a nonstarter for me.

The second thing is that the price simply does not justify the convenience of having an Android TV box built into the soundbar. If it was $100-200, I would understand. But at $400, the competition and alternatives are way too fierce.

If I am being generous, I would say this soundbar is on par with the Yamaha YAS-108. I seriously doubt it though. I'll give them the benefit though. This is a $200 soundbar.
A Mi Box S is $60. This bring the total value of having two separate items to $260. Is it really worth the $140 price difference to have them built into a single item?

Another alternative for $400 would be to start a proper home stereo audio setup. Once again, $60 for a Mi Box and $340 for audio equipment. You can buy a cheap amp, a couple of bookshelf speakers, and a subwoofer for that price. That would be the beginning of your very own home theater setup:

u/MagneticGray · 4 pointsr/jailbreak

Sony has stayed at the top of the portable audio industry for like the past 40 years.
They still make some of the best Hi-Res portable media players with super high quality DACs/headphone amps that range from $180 all the way up to $3k+.

They also recently developed LDAC to go along with their portable players, which is arguably the highest quality Bluetooth codec available right now. It actually allows all but the highest tier lossless audio formats to playback via bluetooth without quality loss. Very few headphones can actually receive LDAC yet (most of those that can are made by Sony of course) but you can get pretty affordable bluetooth receivers, like the FiiO BTR3, that will give any wired pair of headphones the capability to use ultra high bandwidth/low latency bluetooth.

u/ofBeautyAndRage · 4 pointsr/sennheiser

What you need is a good Bluetooth receiver, that will turn any pair of wired headphones or IEM’s into Bluetooth headphones/IEM’s. Since you’re using a decent pair of IEM’s you want something that can drive them, so your best option would be one of these Bluetooth receivers specifically made for audiophile equipment.

FiiO BTR3 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVN14FH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_piKSCbYM45MSS

EarStudio ES100 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H4YD2L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_imKSCbYR6VXN2

I have both and they are amazing the quality difference between wired and Bluetooth is almost indiscernible. I also use them both to drive my
IE80S IEM’s and believe me you will be surprised by the quality of these devices. They both are small and can easily be carried in a pocket.

u/Slinger17 · 4 pointsr/nfl

LPT: Never, ever buy those shitty Logitech/Sony/Creative/whatever 2.1 speaker systems on Amazon for your PC

Instead, buy a cheap amp, some speaker wire and head to your local Goodwill to find some bookshelf speakers.

Boom. You now have high quality sound for under $50 that will blow anything you can find at that price point on Amazon out of the water.

Every Goodwill I've been in has had bookshelf speakers for sale, and if you're real lucky you can find some excellent equipment for dirt cheap. I found a pair of these bad boys for freaking $13 last weekend

u/shibestyle · 4 pointsr/audio

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01FZKA28Y/

This will do the job nicely and is about as cheap as you're going to find.

u/5tr3ss · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For those that are looking for some http’s ... here’s a couple


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=

https://www.miccatron.com/micca-origain-compact-integrated-amplifier/

Mobile caveat: The Michca side does not seem to be responsive :-/

u/Buck_j · 4 pointsr/audiophile
u/CalSplod · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Just got a new Project Debut 3 SE and a accompanying Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier. My problem is that, i can now hear a humming noise in the left speaker, where i couldn't hear one with my old turntable which had a internal pre amp. What can i do, if anything, to fix this issue?

u/bushleague7 · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Hello Reddit,

I am looking to get started collecting vinyl and am saving up for a new turntable, amp & speakers. My total budget is $1,000. Below is currently what I have in mind, but I am open to suggestions:


Turntable:


Pro-Ject Debut Carbon

Open to vintage alternatives, but am still looking for quality


Receiver/Amplifier:


Yamaha A-S301


Onkyo A-9050


What I am looking for in a receiver is also the flexibility to hook up my TV to the speakers I'm buying. Let me know if you have any better recommendations.


Speakers


ELAC B6


Audioengine P4


I am really new to this stuff, but based on the research I have done I believe the choices listed above would be solid. I am leaning towards the ELAC Speakers, but the other parts of my system are very much undecided. Also, would I need a preamp for this set-up?


Here is a link to my local craigslist


Thanks for the help.

u/checkerdamic · 3 pointsr/vinyl

I have jerry rigged plenty of turntables up for sampling so... let's see what we can do here...

(1) Pick up a used turntable from your local craigslist or used electronics shop (follow the guide or post here for recommendations). Depending on your location, $100 will find a basic vintage turntable. Make sure you get a new stylus, maybe even a new cartridge depending on what you want to do. If you want to do backcueing, starting and stopping on the fly, or scratching, get a DJ-oriented cartridge. I recommend the Shure M44-7, it's a workhorse and widely available, you can even pick them up at Guitar Center if there is not an audio shop around you. Runs about $60-70. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT backcue, start and stop on the fly, or scratch with a regular cartridge. You will fuck up your stylus and your record.

(2) As long as the 2i2 has a built in preamp (not sure if the mic preamps on it will work for all turntable--see comment below) all you need to go from your turntable to your 2i2 are adaptors that go from RCA to 1/4 jacks that you can then plug into your 2i2. You can pick them up at Radio shack or order them online. You can use a regular RCA cable and then use these RCA-to-1/4 adaptors, they are like $3... Radio shack will have them if you don't want to order them online. You could also pick up a RCA-to-1/4 cable, these are more expensive and I would just go with the first option as it also allows you to use better cables, but that's up to you. These are your cheapest options to get you started. The best way to sample is to run your turntable into a dedicated audiocard with RCA/phono jacks on your computer... something to think about in your future.

(3) If the mic preamps on the 2i2 do not work or sound weird because they do not have RIAA equalization, then you might need a phone preamp amp. The cheapest one that gets recommended around here is the ART DJPRE II which is $50. You would hook up your turntable to the preamp and then run the cables with the adaptors mentioned in (2) to the 2i2.

(4) If (2) and (3) don't work or seem like too much you could always pick up a preamp with a USB output. I know that there is the ART USB Phono that has built in USB output for $80. I have not used this and cannot comment on the sound quality.

Good luck.

u/ArizonaLad · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Actually, pretty easily. Keeping with the retro theme, you'd pull the old, non-operating amplifier out of the donor jukebox. You'd then fit something like this Blutooth enabled amplifier into it:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13194

Because it looks cool, as well as sounding pretty damn good, you'd likely want to create a shelf for it to sit on within the box, so not only can you see it but operate the controls, as well. Maybe protect it behind a piece of sliding glass to keep it dust free.

If the record player still works (and it probably will; those things are pretty bullet proof), you could listen to some vinyl if you purchased a phono pre-amp. The output of a magnetic cartridge is very low, so you'd have to boost the signal before routing it through this amp I've selected. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus-PS/dp/B000BBGCCI

Note: this preamp will allow you to also stream digital media from your home network, laptop, etc.

So there you have a digital setup to stream your media from your smartphone and home networks. And an analog hybrid to listen to vinyl. Provided the jukebox's speakers are not blown, this setup will cost you about $200. Not bad, IMHO.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What do you need USB in for? There is no such thing as a "small" receiver. There are slimmer receivers but they are still long devices. The art phono plus has usb to connect to your computer but I'm not sure it's what you're after. A similar device is the behringer uphono if you want to buy a seperate phono preamp.

For an amp you can get a very small 2 channel amp like an smsl. If you want small you will have to sacrifice a lot of features. Receivers have sooo many features at the cost of size. They are really the only option if you want all-in-one.

EDIT: the black smsl is sold out but there are other colors available if you are trying to buy right away.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

You will need a phono preamp in addition to a headphone amp. Your device chain is correct.

If you are looking for a device to simplify the chain by combining the phono pre and the headphone amp the least expensive and simplest way would be to buy a used receiver with headphone output. There are some good '90s to early 2000's offerings from Denon, Marantz, Yamaha and the Pioneer Elite and Sony ES lines that would be worth looking at.

Otherwise, I don't think there are a lot options. There is the ART USB Phono Plus, which combines the great preamp in the DJ Pre II and adds USB + headphones features. I own and use the DJ Pre II, and think it's a great phono pre. I don't have any experience with this USB + headphones model though. There is also the Bellari VP130 but it doesn't astounding reviews and at $275, it's not the cheapest thing out there.

The mentioned ART DJ Pre II is a great inexpensive phono preamp. You could combine that with a standalone headphone amp such as the Schiit Mani or JDS O2, both of which get good reviews. For more (or better) headphone amp recommendations, you could go over to /r/headphones or check out head-fi.org.

u/Aylesbury · 3 pointsr/vinyl

There's absolutely no need to buy a used record player. I burned myself buying a used one when I started. Anyhow. I'd spend most of that money on a turntable, so you have a good solid base to build upon in the future. A Pro-Ject Debut Carbon is juuuust within budget. Amazon It's quite a serious turntable actually. It has a carbon arm and a 2M Red cartridge, which itself can be easily upgraded to a 2M Blue in the future. Maybe you could find a good used Phono Box MM to go with that. I have one on my RPM 1 Carbon and I'm quite happy with it, despite usually being fairly reasonable. Having said that.. it's surprisingly expensive on Amazon in the UK, but they can be found on eBay. I'm afraid you just have to work with what you already got when it comes to speakers or headphones. Otherwise, a Essential may be a cheaper alternative. Amazon

u/m4rc · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Take a look at the ART DJPRE II or the Pro-Ject Phono Box MM. I don't have experience with either of those, but they are pretty popular.

u/yatrickmith · 3 pointsr/vinyl

What would be the difference between these Phono Preamps? They all vary in price, and I've seen them all talked about on this sub, and I've researched review sites/videos on Google and YouTube, etc. And I really can't find someone saying one or the other is clearly better. There's just so many preamps I see that are recommended, and I keep asking questions in this thread to get a better idea so that I can purchase one.

Schiit Mani -- http://schiit.com/products/mani

Music Fidelity V90 LPS -- https://www.amazon.com/Musical-Fidelity-V90-LPS-Phono-Preamp/dp/B00E5BY9SO/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475180747&sr=1-2&keywords=schiit+mani

Rolls VP29 --https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183493&sr=8-6&keywords=bellari+phono

Pro-Ject Phono Box MM -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1475183640&sr=1-2&keywords=project+phono

Hackerman Bugle 2 -- https://hagerman-audio-labs.myshopify.com/products/bugle2

Pro-Ject Phono-Box S -- https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-preamplifier-Silver/dp/B007I961IQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475184602&sr=8-1&keywords=project+phono+preamp+s

These are all phono preamps that I've seen that are pretty popular on the Internet and on forums, reddit, etc, but I don't know the difference between all of these. If it helps, I just purchased a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC and I already have Audioengine 5 speakers.

For budget, I'd want to stick between $100 and $200, but I'm willing to go to $250.

u/JimboLodisC · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Out of the ones I've seen recommended in this sub:

> "I just need something."

  • ART DJPREII - $49

    > "I want something decent."

  • Pro-Ject Phono Box MM - $79
  • U-Turn Pluto - $99

    > "I want something really good."

  • Pro-Ject Phono Box - $129
  • Schiit Mani - $129
  • Emotiva Audio XPS-1 - $179

    ***

    I've personally had my eye on a Schiit Mani but might save up for a Tube Box S. I play guitar so anything tube kinda draws me in. I still need to mod the preamp out of my LP120 so I don't fully know how well my Klipsch's preamp is performing. If it's good enough then I can save up for the Tube Box S.
u/BTsBaboonFarm · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Under $100 is no problem!

Take a look at either the Pro-Ject Phono Box, or the U-Turn Pluto. Both are nice products, will pair well with the RP2, and won't kill your wallet.

u/brazen8 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use a Pro-Ject Phone Box MM ($79). I'm really happy with it. I've heard a ton of good thing about the Schiit Mani ($129). I'm tempted to upgrade.

Pro-Ject Phono Box MM DC Phonograph Preamplifier,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1XvVBbRC11VXF

Schiit Mani
http://www.schiit.com/products/mani

u/Rrussell2060 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Here are a few to consider:
BEHRINGER MICROPHONO PP400 http://amzn.com/B000H2BC4E
BEHRINGER U-PHONO UFO202 http://amzn.com/B002GHBYZ0
Pro-Ject Audio - Phono Box MM http://amzn.com/B000YEK1AQ
Little Bear Tube valve Phono Turntable RIAA MM Preamp preamplifier amplifier Ver2.2 http://amzn.com/B00H0FIGUO

u/wankerschnitzel · 3 pointsr/audio

I recommend this.

u/fuzzy761210 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

You will need a amplifier as well as speaker wire.

The headphone jack from your mac is a very low power for headphones. Your sound dock has a amplifier built in for it's speakers

There are lots of way to go about this it all comes down to price

I can't speak for quality of the below, but you can purchase this
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1450824746&sr=1-2&keywords=dayton+audio+amplifier

speaker wire
(just search amazon for speaker wire 16 gauge is plenty for the current setup.


u/sh3rog · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?

I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI to see if that doesn't help your problem.

I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.

Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346872929&sr=1-2&keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)

or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346873001&sr=1-2&keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)

Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out

u/omgpro · 3 pointsr/funny

Although I haven't listened to them personally, and they're probably the least stereotypical audiophile piece of equipment that still caused a stir in the audiophile world, class-D(though referred to as 'class-t') tripath amplifier chips are supposed to be outrageous for the price. Here's an example of one on amazon.

Paired with some high efficiency full-range speakers, depending on what you get you can easily make a system for under a grand that is impressive.

Other than that type of amp, which is an anomaly, you can get some vintage solid state integrated amps which sound pretty damn good for at LEAST a couple hundred.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Assuming you just mean an overall budget of $800, here's a couple of options I'd suggest.

SPEAKERS

u/Shike · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think the Yamaha A-S500 is worth looking at. That gives you roughly 99dB peak at 10' not including room gain which should get you over the 100dB barrier. Has a two year warranty and a 60 day money back guarantee from Crutchfield

Another option is the Onkyo A-9050 which has slightly less power resulting in about ~.5dB loss in comparison at listening position, but includes a DAC. The reason I don't link to this first is the measurements trouble me (listing distortion at only 1kHz). It's probably fine though, is cheaper, and does include a DAC - I think the warranty is a little lower, and while Amazon is lenient with returns that gives you a max of 30 days to try really if the take it back without issue.

Any expected headroom will need to be reduced from the peak to form average listening level. Assuming 15dB of headroom average listening level will need to be around 84dB - though modern stuff is pretty compressed and will allow some play.

The one thing I'd say is don't purchase till your move is finished or you have completed the listening room and are able to give it some real ear time to make sure it's hitting the levels you're wanting.

u/Paul-Kersey · 3 pointsr/headphones

the budget dac/headphone amp/speaker amp seems to be a series of compromises to get what you want in one box...either lack of inputs, or a weaker speaker amp or headphone amp section...they are jack of all trades, master of none type units

the cheapest device I am aware of that meets all your criteria is probably the Teac AI101-DA: usb input, 2 optical inputs, 3.5mm analog input, speaker/subwoofer outputs, headphone output, but out of your price range at $299

the budget options that provide speaker and headphone outputs are Topping VX1, TP-32EX and TP-30MK2 however none of these devices has an optical input (TP32-EX has spdif input); they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit, if that is a concern for you

u/RedemptionX11 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

There are tons of options. Just search 3.5mm or aux to Bluetooth adapter. You'll find stuff like this. Lots of different devices for different prices.

Etekcity Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Receiver Audio Adapter (NFC-Enabled) for Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rbMpybDZHREWJ

u/tgillly · 3 pointsr/vinyl

I recently upgraded from an LP60 to a LP1240 (secondhand) and I've been seriously underwhelmed and am having problems.

The LP60 sounded crisper with cleaner sound which shouldn't be the case for a much more expensive table with a cartridge costing more than the previous table all together.

The 1240 wasn't nearly loud enough so I had to add a preamp, I know there is a built in one but after trying every possible Line/phono config it still was't giving me the volume the LP60 had.

Also I am getting a loud hum which I can't seam to figure out. I attracted a ground wire from the turntable to the preamp which reduced hum but is still prevalent. I'm almost positive this hum is stemming from the turntable itself as when I used the LP60 with the amp there was no hum whatsoever and the hum is still there when the preamp isn't connected.

Video of hum

Setup:

Turntable

Amp

Pre Amp

Headshell

Cartridge

Speakers

​

​

u/mpachi · 3 pointsr/Dell

Depends what where you want the audio out.

For the speakers?
not much i can help you there, as i disable the speakers in the bios

For headphones?
The noise floor on the 3.5mm port on the laptop is the worst, if you have sensitive iems you will always hear it.
instead you need to grab a usb dac like

dragonfly

  • 24bit/96hz
  • usb only
  • $124.88

    earstudio

  • 16bit/48hz (on usb) up to 24bit/96hz(BT ldac)
  • BT/USB
  • has both balanced and unbalanced outputs
  • $99

    btr3

  • 16bit/48hz (on usb) up to 24bit/96hz(BT ldac)
  • USB/BT
  • $69

    m6

  • 384kHz/32bit(usb)
  • BT/USB/Onboard (its it own music player)
  • $99.99

    any of these will give you great sound from whatever headphones you have
u/jmk3 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I'm using an Mpow on the HP50. I also have a Fiio BTR3 which I use for iems. If you have a bigger budget then you could also go for the Earstudio ES100.

u/Aco2504 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you're spending that much on your amp so you have a dedicated subwoofer output, don't bother. Just use high level inputs on your subwoofer.

Go with the Topping MX3 instead. Will save you $50.

Spend more on quality bookshelves. Go for Micca RB42 and forget the subwoofer. That's the ultimate in compact, good quality sound.

Plus, that Dayton is kinda "meh." Is a good budget subwoofer, but not actually that great. Get bookshelves with good extension.

RB42 link.

Edit:

If you need to cheapen a little on the amp, that's fine.

u/blackjakals · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Then I suggest you get the SMSL AD18 amp. It has a stereo amplifier, DAC, and headphone amplifier in one as well as bluetooth. Link below:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN

If you don't want a headphone amplifier or Bluetooth, get something like the Micca Origain. It's just a stereo amplifier with a DAC. Link below.
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B

If you want a 5.1 system down the road for surround sound on your PC, you can get this:
https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

u/lovelyspecimen · 3 pointsr/headphones

This cheap POS. It's what I use at my desk at work. Does alright really.

u/ocinn · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Kanto BEN (comes in all colors), SMSL A2 or Q5 Pro, Dayton Sub 800

https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-BENBLKGL-Passive-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00AWLI7E8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W136AU/ or https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017W12UCU/ (good becuase treble control for BEN's brightness.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

And speaker wire, and a subwoofer cable. But yeah.

u/clipperdouglas29 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

+2 for the SMSL. Can't speak to the AD18, but I had a Q5 and loved it

u/thesneakywalrus · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Boom

Otherwise we'd need to know what inputs your sub has. Some subs have speaker level inputs/ouputs that let you wire your speaker in series, others just have RCA inputs.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Buy nothing that is marketed as a PC speaker. That includes everything Logitech makes.

The cheapest desk setup I will recommend is the Micca PB42X.

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

There is also a version that lacks an integrated amp, the MB42X for $80. If you find a used receiver on Craiglist or at a thrift shop for $20-30 it makes for a good combo. Alternatively, a cheap Chinese amp works.

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y

u/jimthesoundman · 3 pointsr/diysound

Okay, well then I'd recommend these:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10904&cs_id=1090405&p_id=6970&seq=1&format=2

but you'll need a small amp to power them.
I assume the Google Audio is coming off a laptop or desktop computer, you could try to power them using that but it will probably be too weak.

Something like this would probably fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1526446495&sr=1-3&keywords=lepai+amp

Plus you'll need some speaker wire, I'd get something about 14 gauge for getting the audio from the amp to the speakers.

Then you'll also need a mini to mini or mini to RCA stereo hookup wires for getting the signal from the laptop to the amp.

u/Snaxmaster93 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Nad D 3020v2 fits all criteria. Emotiva Ta- 100 is normal sized, but fits all other criteria. PS Audio Sprout would be a great option, but is a bit over budget.

You could also get a small dac/amp and add a small phono preamp like the schiit mani. You could stack the Schiit on something small like the micca origain.

Hope this helps.

u/homeboi808 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

• Klipsch RP-600M: $630, Stereophile review/measurements
• HSU VTF-2 MK5: $610
• Used stereo integrated amp off Craigslist, or just get a Yamaha S301: $350
• Speaker cable pair (I use these, ~$30/pair)), and also a subwoofer cable.

u/vaper7777 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you have access to someone who can work on these, this thing has very good specs.

​

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1054650/Teac-Bx-500.html?page=2#manual

​

Look at the phono section, for example.

​

I think the price is a very high - I would pay up to maybe $75. If I was seller, I would not let go below $50 - assuming everything works, and there's no weird hum or anything, etc. . .

​

Re: movies - I think the TV remote controls the volume anyways.

​

Other than that - the price isn't the only thing that's high. I think the seller needs to put down the pipe and actually think about that price.

​

This bad boy is only $30 more: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00MXUCN0A/ "new" - with warranty and Amazon's promiscuous return policy.

u/Xpress_interest · 3 pointsr/vinyl

You're going to take a lot of shit for wanting to connect a turntable to a soundbar as opposed to a proper 2.0/2.1 setup arranged to the room's acoustics (generally recommended here and in any other music-related sub over a soundbar), but any receiver with an optical out will do, as you can add a phono preamp to the chain to get a line level signal out of the turntable. You CAN find amps/receivers with optical outs and a built-in phono stage, but they're likely to be more expensive and even a $50-$100 phono pre-amp will sound as good or better than anything built into a receiver. And going to component route means if anything does go out or you want to upgrade something, the modular element means it's a lot easier to do.

Edit: the cheapest new (and decent) amp that I found in a quick search that has a phono stage and optical out in it: Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Stereo Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_J4mlxbKYNJZHB - this actually looks like a pretty decent amp for what you want to do, and it's only a little over your budget (whuch is going to be tricky going the new route anyway)

And if you're set on new for the turntable too: http://uturnaudio.com/turntables/ and add a cueing lever and upgrade the cart to the ortofon or grado in their custom build link and you've got a better table for a better price delivered to your door and ready to play.

u/Elaborate_vm_hoax · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Instead of throwing out part numbers I'll throw out some advice on what you can do to get the most out of what you're looking at.

For now I'd start with good pair of speakers and an amplifier that can handle what you want to do long-term (5.1, 7.1, inputs, etc.). Put everything you can into these for now, then expand in the long-term. Reason being, for $400-500 you can a fairly solid 2.0 system together, but for that range with surround sound you'll be looking at home-theater-in-a-box junk that you'll outgrow pretty quickly if you're really interested in sound quality.

A receiver/Amp that I see mentioned a lot that I've personally used is this Yamaha. It's a fairly simple 5.1 setup, but will likely suffice for your future expansion.

As for speakers.. what is the room size like that you're using? Do you want small bookshelf speakers? Big towers? Used or new? Anything you've seen/heard that caught your attention?

u/herpsderpsherpsderp · 3 pointsr/LiverpoolFC

I meant the ones used in home theater systems (I don't know much about them, my dad showed me how to do it on his system)

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

u/hemifieldsofgreen · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

No but I've heard good things about This Lepy from Amazon for $10 cheaper.

u/Alwayssunnyinarizona · 3 pointsr/googlehome

I went with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6-mzzbQSRKWAF

In fact I just got another one yesterday off of warehouse - $81 with prime free shipping. Gotta watch for a bit to find a returned one, but all have been good quality.

Pros - cost, two channel so we can expand the zones we have now, auto-turn on/off with source, adjustable bass/treble/volume, doesn't use a lot of power in standby (less than 5w).

Cons - not mountable in a media cabinet, but I just built a custom rack; no remote, but we just let Chromecast/home do the on/off.

u/17_jku · 3 pointsr/hometheater
u/zim2411 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Pyle doesn't really have a good reputation, and I recommend staying away from them. This AudioSource amp is a better bet IMO and has the bonus of having a built in speaker selector to optionally turn off the outdoor speakers if you aren't working outside.

Edit: It's also got auto on-off with audio sensing which is convenient. You could pick up an Echo Dot and use the audio out to have a cheap smart-speaker style system, which is what I do in my kitchen. That's super convenient to have hands free control of the music, have Alexa set timers, etc.

u/kodack10 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here's the thing about receivers. They are cheap, and even the cheap ones have tons more features than the receivers of old. However, what they don't have, even up to the $2000 range, is power. The issue is power supplies. yeah you can have 150WPC amps on each channel, but they are all sipping power from the same power supply, and driving more than 2 channels at once lowers the output power (and increases distortion) on ALL other channels. That's the dirty little secret about multichannel receivers.

So if you want good stereo sound for music, I'd advise against a multichannel receiver and suggest one of the stereo combination devices like the Yamaha S301 which has more than enough power for Klipsch super efficient speakers, and a built in phono stage. No HDMI though.

If HDMI is a must have, all of the sub $500 amps are basically the same. Denon's have better room correction, all of them are lacking in power.

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You really don't need to spend $800 or $1000 on an amplifier, especially with $400 speakers.

If you think you'll ever add a subwoofer, get a multichannel receiver. Otherwise get an A-S301.

u/pickapicklepipinghot · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I don't have personal experience with too many amps. I have the Yamaha A-S301 and it's an amazing amp, great, clean and dynamic sound, and terrific build quality. It's $350 new, however. Generally Yamaha, Denon, Onkyo, and used Marantz products provide a lot of bang for the buck. You'll be pretty safe going with a product from those companies. Honestly it's hard to go wrong with a modern amp, even the cheap ones -- they just might not last as long. When you upgrade to 5.1, you can always use that 2.1 amp for another room system.

u/Khroom · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Okay I'm sorry if this is reaaaally stupid, but can someone explain to me what all this stuff actually is, and why I need it?

Currently I have this amp with these speakers.

In the thumbnail, see three things. What are they?

u/awesomejim123 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I want to start a new setup from scratch, do I have everything I need? This may seem like a very elementary question but I keep learning that I need different cables for this and for that

Turntable (Includes RCA cable)

Amplifier (Built in phono pre- I don't still need a preamp, do I?)

Speakers

Speaker wire (This goes from the speaker to the amplifier? Until yesterday I thought they just used RCA cables. Are banana plugs universal for all speakers?)

RCA Cable into audio jack (For computer- is something better than this that would accomplish the same thing? RCA to usb?)

u/the_weird_turn_pro · 2 pointsr/audiophile

> urntable, tape and CD players, and an auxiliary input


what about this Onkyo A-9010 for $299

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SY20TE8/

PS you should search for "Integrated Stereo Amplifier" instead of stereo receiver

u/Polemarkos · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You could take a look at the Onkyo A-9010. It's well reviewed and has a built-in phono stage that may be good enough for you. I have one paired with Wavecrest HVL-1 and I'm very happy with it doing light music/soundbar alternative duty in the family room. It doesn't have a ton of power but what it does provide is clean and should power both the KEF Q100 and Klipsch speakers to very high volume without distortion. https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487725773&sr=1-1&keywords=onkyo+a-9010

u/oddsnsodds · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I don't believe there will be an audible difference, personally, but I won't argue the point. There are definitely other options with better build quality and brand reputation.

The Onkyo A-9010 is a very popular integrated amp that lands squarely in your desired feature set:

https://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/

A better preamp might be this OSD model:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MPYJLPX/

And a better amplifier might be the Emotiva A-150:

https://smile.amazon.com/Emotiva-Audio-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XSCCVV1/

u/www-ListenUp-com · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You'll probably want to look into speakers then an amp in that order. Speakers tend to be the most subjective and personal piece of the setup, so get those squared away, then figure out what to drive them with.

For speakers, check out:

u/wsteineker · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll second the call to look at a set of Polk S20s. I just auditioned a pair of S15s and they're shockingly great for the price. Great resolution and soundstage with clean highs, gorgeous midrange, and a surprising amount of bass extension and impact. I'd have gone for the S20s myself, but space was at a premium. You can pick them up in either black walnut or brown walnut for $299 shipped, or step down to the S15s in either finish for $229 if you think the S20s are just too big for her tastes. Pair either of them with something like an Onkyo A-9010 and you have a great 2.0 system for $470 - $550.

As an aside, I totally get the having to placate your SO bit. Mine absolutely hated my previous setup, so I'm hoping she's much happier with these Polks around. Good luck!

u/linuxhanja · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

New, this is a unit with 4 HDMI inputs, 4k throughput (for future), and is $229. There's not too much better unless you go used - in which case people seem to take decent care of receivers if you do go used.


I'm just posting this rather than PMing for others who haven't considered a receiver. Especially with the ambience that Swith's "Botw" is promising, a surround sound setup might really enhance your gameplay! I hooked my dad's Vietnam-era stereo receiver up to my SNES as a kid, and I've been a receiver junkie ever since! :)


Edit forgot the link!

u/tomd51 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For a new, entry level, multi-channel receiver, the Yamaha RX-V381 for $238 that can be found on clearance at BB is going to be hard to beat. Almost the same receiver (minus a couple of minor differences), an RX-V379, can be found on Amazon for $230.

If you're willing to do a factory refurb (which I would highly recommend) that comes with a 1 year warranty, you can pick up the RX-V381 for $178 or step up to the RX-V481 for $249 from Accessories4Less, an authorized reseller. While you couldn't use your Amazon or BB gift cards through them, the savings you can get on a refurb'ed unit might be worth hanging onto them for other use.

u/PhotoJim99 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

If you're in the US (or Canada), Monoprice has a surprisingly cheap set of speakers that you can connect to a low end receiver. You could save even more money by buying a used receiver.

These speakers are so inexpensive and yet highly-rated, I bought a set to use with an old Yamaha RX-V595a receiver from the 1990s that has such low distortion and good audio that I couldn't bear to discard it.

Attach these components to the TV of your choice and you'll have a surprisingly good system for a small space. It may even be quite livable in a much larger one.

u/MMfuryroad · 2 pointsr/hometheater




>thanks for your answer and yes money is a lil tight.
that being said you mentioned that the HTIB speakers are trash and won't work but you didn't mention if the other two big speakers from the LBT-ZX66i would work...would they?? i am willing to upgrade everything (over some 5 months time) but do you think i could start with just a receiver and the 2 big speakers? if so, what would you recommend?

Not the one who gave you that answer but I did some checking on that system and the speakers are 6 ohm and use bare speaker wire so yes you could use them until something better comes along. if your budget for a receiver is in that $268 range here's a Denon S510 5.1 receiver from an authorized online seller for $259 with free shipping. No Dolby Atmos, Wi-Fi , Bluetooth or ARC but it has Audyssey room correction and is a good entry level receiver.

You could also go factory refurbished through AC4less and get a bit more featured receiver for the money and have a 1 year factory warranty instead of the new S series 2 year. Again I'd recommend the Denon, Marantz or Yamaha receivers for their room correction software.

Denon AVR S510BT 5 2 AV Receiver HDCP 2 2 Full 4K Ultra HD Bluetooth AVRS510BT 883795003674 | eBay
http://m.ebay.com/itm/DENON-AVR-S510BT-5-2-AV-Receiver-HDCP-2-2-FULL-4k-Ultra-HD-Bluetooth-AVRS510BT-/281739265239?nav=SEARCH

EDIT: and a comparable Yamaha receiver.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467359090&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=yamaha+rx-v379







>sorry for so many questions.

Nothing to be sorry about. Questions to me mean a willingness to learn and that's always a good thing.

Sony Muteki LBT-ZX66i Specs - CNET
http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-muteki-lbt-zx66i/specs/





u/changachanga2 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I don't know a ton about the echo but it appears to have an aux output.

These little amps are popular in projects like yours.

An 1/8 to RCA cable would connect your echo to the amp, and the speaker would wire directly to the amp using whatever existing speaker wires were there.

You're not likely to get great sound out of the existing speaker but I'd leave it in place until you get something that works and then decide on an upgrade based on your needs.

u/dino340 · 2 pointsr/cade

My cabinet has this as an amp

https://www.amazon.ca/Version-Upgraded-Lepy-LP-2020A-Amplifier/dp/B00V9AYMZ4

And these speakers

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B001RNNX8K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I couldn't find computer speakers that I wanted to use, so the amp and speaker system works better than I had expected it to. Just a little bit of soldering and speaker wire needed and its a nice looking more polished in a way design.

u/xsoccer92x · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

In simple terms this is what you will need.

Speakers -> Use Speaker Wire -> Amp

You will need an amp because the speakers are passive and need power (which your tv can't provide). I listed the usual bang for your buck recommendations. In addition it's up to you whether you want to get banana plugs or not, personally it's just easier to stick the wire straight into the speaker. The MB42 has 5-way binding posts that can accept banana plugs, spades, bare straight wire, and bare looped wire.

Now the easy part. You just have to connect your Amp to your tv. You said you only have optical or aux (no rca?). The amp I linked has the option to use either RCA or Aux input. My personal reccomendation is to use the RCA wire over the Aux, if you can.

And for price vs performance, you can't get too much better than the Micca MB42s. It's always highly recommended as one of the best bang for your buck speakers at that price level.

u/tempal78 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Firstly, thank you very much for the detailed response!
I have definitely confused a receiver for an amplifier, thanks for clearing that up.

Here's what my plan is:

  • I have a Technics SLQ200 with a receiver, and I will be moving it to another room.

  • My new table is a Sony PS212 - that will be going in the old room with existing set up (receiver and speakers).

  • The new room will have my Technics TT (where I can enjoy my records more often), but there isn't the room for a receiver like the one I have already.

    Looking at what I linked, I don't believe its a pre-amp at all (though I said it was), it seems to be a 'mini amplifier'

    Would this then be sufficient for my Technics TT? I would only have to plug the input into this mini-amp and it would function like the existing receiver that I am looking to down size?

    Thanks again!
u/Kermit51 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The thing on the left with the blue ring? That's a Lepy amp that drives the two speakers on either side of the monitor.

u/lue42 · 2 pointsr/sonos

You need a connect for the setup you want.

I suggest emulating a Sonos until you can or want to go for a Connect setup.

Go for a chromecast audio. Buy one of these for your Amp:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_pd4jyb6441J5F

Get a couple of decent in ceiling, outdoor speakers - mono price has some decent ones.

Someday you can replace the chromecast and amp with a connect amp.

u/SlimmJimm01 · 2 pointsr/audio



so any old cd/dvd player will work? all i need to do is plug in the RCA cables into the amp?


The Amp

The Speakers

wire

u/LinkXXI · 2 pointsr/bapccanada

I've got one of these running with an old pair of speakers from a Sony stereo and it's decent for the price.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/christhebaker · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Might have to go separate.

I have a cheap DAC/Headphone amp to act as my "sound card" and it has a 1/4 inch headphone output. On the back it has outputs for speakers and I have that going into my speaker amp, the Lepy LP-2020A.

It seems to work pretty good, one knob for heaphones, one for speakers.

u/Synssins · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I just run this. https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94

I'd love to do full zone control throughout the house, but would want each Echo unit in each room to come through over the room speakers. It's easier for me to isolate each room to it's own amp unit and then connect a media player to it that can be synced with other media players.

u/_shadow_banned_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Do you have any aesthetic expectations?

I would use a laptop as a source, buy a Fiio DAC, get an audiosource amp, and buy a set of ELAC B6

That's in your price range, but it completely skips the idea of "stereo system" and relies on you owning a computer to dedicate to music.

I woudl have a completely different plan if it was dedicated installed stereo or something that you wanted portable.

u/lwadbe · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

Select any half decent weatherproof speakers (I have a set of Yamaha's that whilst not the best sounding, have forgiven me a couple of midwest winters where I forgot to bring them inside).

​

Grab an auto-sensing amp. This used to be a decent buy but has gotten a little pricey of late: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B01N3QXFDG

​

Grab an AE (second gen if you really want AP2).

​

It'll cost a little more than a single all-in-one, but will sound better, and is a lot easier to service when something inevitably breaks.

u/psycholis · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This audiosource amp is one I see a lot of people using to upgrade their setups to 7.1.4.

u/BeerDoctor · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Holy wall of text!



Are you trying to start over and replace all over equipment or reuse your existing? .. because you went into a lot of detail describing your existing setup



Assuming starting mostly fresh.. I like Chromecast Audios. You can connect them to almost any audio device and control from any phone / computer. It also doesn't require the phone / computer to continue playing (it just acts as a remote)

I have them in closets around the house connected to auto sensing amps which connect to my ceiling speakers. You can also just connect them to normal stereo systems and either leave it on all the time or use Home Assistant to turn them on/off.

If you can easily run wires, you might also consider a whole house audio system, like from HTD. Personally I decided I preferred the flexibility of a CCA based system.

u/concentus7 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Meh, those are pretty docile open in-wall speakers, so you're not gonna get much out of them beyond what the receiver can already push out. I wouldn't spend extra money on a serious amplifier until you get better speakers. Something like the AudioSource AMP100VS should be fine to power two of your overheads.

u/Elnrik · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Two of these amps? https://amzn.com/B00ZSEFU94

Assuming the speakers match up fairly well with those amps in terms of sensitivity and power requirements, I think you should be fine. The line out from the Origen+ can control the volume. You would then split the Left / Right signals with a 3.5mm to RCA Y adapter, and connect the R channel to 1 amp, and L channel to the other - is that correct? Reading the Amp owner's manual, it shows the amp only needs a single input using the bottom-middle RCA connector for bridged mono mode.

I don't see anything wrong with this setup. It is a little unusual - an inexpensive home theater receiver might provide better overall features and power without the connectivity issues.

I digress... The number of connectors and length of cable used would probably influence distortion more than the output of the Origen would. Keeping the signal path away from power sources will help as well.

Also, I don't see how replacing the Origen with a Magni 2 Uber would net you massive audio quality improvements, especially where budget is concerned. Unless you need the coax input for some reason.

I hope that helps? Pretty unique situation. Good luck.

u/redbeard1083 · 2 pointsr/ToolBand

I have them as well. They punch WAY above their $34 pricetag. If you want to get real fancy, run them off this: Nobsound NS-08E Vacuum Tube Headphone Amplifier Hi-Fi Valve Headphone Amp Stereo Audio Preamplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014FASL1A/

u/dremic · 2 pointsr/headphones

this one looks pretty solid actually for 50$

http://www.amazon.com/Nobsound%C2%AE-Vacuum-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A?ie=UTF8&keywords=headphone%20amp&qid=1464386957&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4


http://www.head-fi.org/t/794796/nobsound-ns-08e-also-know-as-nobsound-6j9-hybrid-tube-amp


Some people talking about it on head fi saying they're impressed


if you want to spend 100$ its pretty hard to beat the Schiit which would let you add a DAC later... I use the Schiit M&M stack and its glorious. I got an amp first and a dac later


http://schiit.com/

edit: I also feel like I should mention, if you have a soundcard you will need to use a line out instead of a headphone jack when you get your amp. The headphone jack in your soundcard will already have an amplifier. So you will be double amplifying which will make your sound not so good. I had this problem originally and had to switch to a line out

u/netinept · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Exactly. A proper stereo is the solution here. Use a decent amp and speakers for the audio and pair it with an Echo Dot to control it, using the line out jack on the Dot to connect it to the amp.

If /u/Treas0n is looking for a good budget option, I'd highly recommend the Lepai amp + Dayton speaker setup. This setup is the go-to budget kit on /r/audiophile and would be plenty loud with really good sound quality. It's about $90 for the whole kit (+$30-$50 for an Echo Dot):

Lepai LP-2020TI Texas Instruments TPA3118 Hi-Fi Stereo Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FJF4FF/ (don't go for this one anymore, grab a tripath version)

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition ORIGINAL Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/

AmazonBasics 16-Gauge Speaker Wire - 50 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LW0WDQ/

Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male 22AWG Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094A1F3S/

If the OP wants even bigger sound then add a powered sub for $100 more (you may want to double up on your 16ga speaker wire for connecting the subwoofer between the stereo speakers and the amp)

Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IEFWBbD0GFQVW

u/itcrackerjack · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.

​

You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

u/KochSD84 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Or a Kinter 2020A+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_cV2ZDbT20H6EW
Haven't owned one personally but hear from many it is the original Tripath 2020 board.. i do want to order one to confirm and keep around.. Wish I knew how to mod them like some, I remember companies selling modded Lepais for $100-200 when they were $20-25 on Amazonlol
!

u/DedicNisvet · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Would this t-amp work for this setup.


So I get speaker wires to connect it to the t-amp and then connect that to the TV?


Which and how many of the red and black outputs do I use and or which ones?


I'm sorry for all the questions as I am new to setting up speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-Original-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=T-amp&qid=1571625385&sr=8-7

u/AndyP79 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Fluance or project. No preamp, buy a decent amp from Amazon that has a phono stage. Something like the Sony 190, it comes with Bluetooth for streaming. You can have both plus some pioneer bookshelf speakers from right around the 500 mark. Then you can add other components as you come across them in the classifieds.
I have this Sony amp, it's nice. Look for an open box, you'll save a couple bucks.

Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NCElDbBH62Y5B

Fluance RT80 High Fidelity Vinyl Turntable Record Player with Premium Cartridge, Diamond Stylus, Belt Drive, Built-in Preamp, Adjustable Counterweight & Anti-Skating, Glossy Black Wood Cabinet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2B3FKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nDElDb8E6PHK7

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8" x 12-9/16" x 8-7/16" & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YDElDbNC88WH9

These three things are all you need to get started, allowing you to listen to vinyl and stream from your phone.

Look for the CD, MD, and cassette deck in Thrift shops. You'll find then cheap.

Good luck.

PS: fluance is a Canadian company I believe.

u/trumant · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Used for under $150 and when in stock, right at $150 Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZTwUBbJGAVQAF

Rated as the best value stereo receiver by the Wirecutter: https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-stereo-receiver/

u/EarthenJug · 2 pointsr/vinyl

This used to be called "no stupid questions", right? Let's go back to the roots.

I'm looking at a receiver to go with my AT-LP120, would this one be a good one to go with? If not, what else would you recommend in a similar price range? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WEwYDb3VHANJ1

Also, would having a receiver even improve the sound at all if my turntable already has a preamp? Just trying to improve my setup that I've had since college for something better.

u/MrRabinowitz · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Over the weekend I grabbed the above amp from Goodwill for $30. There wasn't a lot about it online - so I posted on this sub asking about quality, reputation, etc. One user suggested that I post my impressions on here to serve as a reference for people who have the same question in the future - so here it is.

I had originally intended to use this amp in my garage or somewhere else as part of a second system. Yesterday I swapped out my other amp with this one to see how well it paired with my speakers - a set of Akai SW-a70s. The amp I've been using is a Sony STRDH190. When I posted about it on here I got both positive and negative answers about the quality of the amp - but it absolutely blows the new Sony out of the water. Everything about it is significantly better. Highs, lows, clarity....everything. Now, I'm not saying that it would compare to higher end stuff - but IMO it was $30 VERY well spent and anyone who is on a budget and looking for an amp for a starter setup will not be disappointed. The thing will rattle my windows. When using the Sony there came a point where the volume still allegedly has 20% or more to go but it seemed to have maxed out. In fact, I had never seen my woofers even move with the Sony amp. Even at full volume. With this amp they are absolutely pumping. I could dry my hair with the port holes.

So, long story short - it was exactly what I needed it to be and more - and for $30 I think it's an absolute bargain. Some audiophiles may turn their noses up at it - and maybe I will too at some point - but I think most people would be thrilled to have something like this for so little.

u/Onlylikesblades · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Been reading for the past few hours and decided on this as a basic setup:

Speakers

Receiver
Is this a good choice instead of using a preamp + amp? As for future growth, can it handle more powerful speakers + subwoofer?

Turntable

Basically, is there anything else I need to set this up (aside from records)? Also, will it be a setup that can grow reasonably if this is something I choose to upgrade components of?

u/CCB0x45 · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

Most of the time I use galaxy buds, which I was also using on my S8. Though I always listen to stuff at night to help me sleep, and its also when I charge my phone. I have special headphones for nighttime that are easy to sleep with. So at night I use a bluetooth adapter that I plug my headphones into, and then I can charge my phone as well.

Heres the adapter I use at night.
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fiio+btr3&qid=1563250057&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/lemmewinks184 · 2 pointsr/india

Are you dead set on just wireless headphones?


Sennheiser momentums are currently on sale for 7490 : https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07R5ZZ23C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1


Alternatively, you could just get a bluetooth adapter like the fiio BTR3 and use any of your headphones that you already own. https://www.amazon.in/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Support/dp/B07FVN14FH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fiio+btr3&qid=1563207457&s=gateway&sr=8-1


Bear in mind that the latter option is pricier but since the adapter supports aptxHD and LDAC, provided your music source and headphones are good, it's going to beat the sound quality of most wireless buds.


I personally use the adapter paired with my Pinnacle p1s. Streaming LDAC audio through adapter gives ~8 hours give or take on a single charge.

u/nagas3000 · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

these and these dacs and what's your budget?

u/VeryShibes · 2 pointsr/vinyl

> if the extra $20 would be worth investing in.

Your extra $20 will get you basically the same ART pre-amp but with USB out for when you want to rip your records to digital files. I own this preamp and am very happy with it. The next tier up from ART preamps would probably be the Schiit lineup, it's very popular on this sub, if/when I wind up with a second TT I'll get a Mani for it.

u/AbacabLurker · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I would recommend this:

ART USB Phono Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BBGCCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Nz.2AbTTEPHPJ

Make sure to bypass your LP-120 internal preamp. It sucks. Actually, rip it out altogether.

http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/audio-technica-at-lp120-preamp-removal-detailed-instructions-video.318596/

u/The_Real_DeFalco · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

bogus_ninja has the right idea. Really any turntable will do as long as you have some sort of audio interface that can connect your record player to your computer.

I just started sampling vinyl recently, and I use this to record my records. It works great. I highly recommend it for this purpose.

u/nevermind4790 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

It appears that the Stanton D61 is another name for the 6xx series. Source You could get a generic stylus for that, for $50 or under. New carts in that price range aren't going to be any better.

For a preamp, they can start as low as $20 for a Pyle. If you can spend a little more, I recommend the ART or its USB counterpart.

u/weegee · 2 pointsr/audiophile

C356BEE DAC here in my living room. It's great for TV using the built in DAC and music from my Mac Mini through a Grant Fidelity TubeDAC-11. Also have the Art Phono Plus as a phono section, which is great as it runs off USB and allows me to easily record a record on to my computer.

u/dudelydudeson · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Never used one of these but seems like it would fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ

u/Bearded-Reefer · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Hey-o,

I've got a setup question:
Will a pro-ject debut Carbon connect to Klipsch R-15PM speakers a Klipsch Reference subwoofer with the pro-ject phono preamp

Any advice is appreciated for speakers to go with this turntable! Thanks!

u/ga129 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Looking at possible options for new Phono Preamp under $350. Have my eyes on the Vincent Pho-8and the Mobile Fidelity StuidoPhono. Alternatively, was also looking at this cambridge unit. Thoughts, comments, or suggestions? I'm currently using a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM. Thanks....

u/Graceful_cumartist · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Well second hand you can get something really cool, otherwise most likely something like this Pro-Ject, this pre-amp and if you can squeeze in extra 25 I definitely recommend these speakers. These speakers are usually way more and they are really good, giving you the ability to control audio trough them and also using headphones if you want to.

Now I started with a Pro-Ject and am bit biased on them. But I also think they have some real benefits over Regas basic models and the U turn. The Pro-Ject comes with Ortofons OM-10 that is a great cartridge in its own right and it can easily be upgraded with replacing the stylus with a higher quality one. They also have some adjustments available over the rega.

u/filthyneckbeard · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Looking to get my first setup, would greatly appreciate feedback in case there's something I've missed, or somewhere I've been dumb!

I live in an area in the UK where shipping sucks wang, so looking to get everything from amazon.co.uk where possible.

Turntable: Pro-Ject Debut Carbon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007XTE6YW/

Speakers: Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002WJAQY2/

Amp: Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000YEK1AQ/

Does this look reasonable?

u/bagelchips · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That's a microphone preamp. It amplifies a microphone signal on its way into a computer. You want a stereo amplifier for powering speakers.

A "class t" amp will be enough to power your miccas. I own this one from Dayton: Dayton Audio DTA-1 Class T Digital AC/DC Amplifier 15 WPC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_owbKybF7PNBG6

It even comes with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cord to plug from your computer to the amp.

u/jcy · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

so this looks like it will handle what i need?

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

i would plug the 3.5mm cable from the PC's headphone jack into the amp, then plug the bare wires into those jacks

and for $40, yes!

u/Biblos_Geek · 2 pointsr/deaf

This is the closest I can think of to making these headphones "wireless":

You need two of these Bluetooth adapters; one set to broadcast from the TV or computer and the other set to receive plugged into the amp.

And this amp runs on batteries so no need to connect to wall outlet - these headphones still have to be directly wired to the amp.

u/TimmyRoller99 · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I'm honestly not sure that an amp that cheap exists that will fully drive those speakers. But here are other options that could work in the short term.

http://www.amazon.com/SA-36A-TPA3118D2DAP-Digital-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00JXCEDGS

http://www.amazon.com/Stellar-Labs-50-10145-Compact-Amplifier/dp/B008BW9K6E

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

u/__nullptr_t · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Something like this should do the job: https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481510434&sr=8-3&keywords=class+t+amplifier

There aren't really any compatibility issues with amps, for the most part. If you have an 8 ohm speaker its pretty much going to work with any amp (outside of headphone amps or old tube amps).

u/stonedboss · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For $300 you should be looking in budget audiophile and not buildapc. That being said, after searching budget audiophile myself for hours on end this is what I came to as being the best sub $300 setup (that I am currently using):

Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Bookshelf Loudspeakers with a Dayton Audio Digital Amplifier 15 WPC, with the speakers on SANUS 31" Speaker Stands.

This setup sounds amazing and it will be better than any PC speakers you can get. Keep in mind you do have to buy some speaker wire, but the setup is a breeze as the only tool you need is a pair of wire-cutters to get the wire to size.

u/sporobolus · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

the review to the Lepai you link doesn't give it enough credit for soundworthiness; cheap class-D amps sound very good as long as they are well-matched to the speakers; that's the type of amp in most of the better all-in-one bluetooth speakers anyway

i use a similar Dayton DTA-1 plus a nice pair of Polk Monitor Series 2 mini-speakers, all three from Goodwill for total cost of $30 and the sound is excellent for the size; adding a bluetooth receiver dongle would fulfill the OP's request

re: BIFL — i can see why many people would prefer an all-in-one unit, but generally those can't be serviced … otoh, individual components of an a la carte system can be replaced, making the overall system "serviceable"; i have even seen people take an old (BIFL-type) suitcase and fit it with a class-D amp and some car speakers

u/RadioNick · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I'd recommend this super simple/cheap amplifier. It even has a 3.5mm cable that may allow you to use a line/headphone out if your TV has one.

Dalton DTA-1: http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I

u/roxkyp · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Well deciding on a amp can be tricky. You could get something like a Onkyo A-9050 or a Yamaha A-S301BL which would save you a fair bit of money while still getting a sturdy high quality amp. Hopefully someone else can give their two cents on it, since I don't listen a lot to records.

u/shadyinternets · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

what is your budget? there are tons of options out there depending on the budget.

and are you going with the andrew jones sub or a different one? some subs will allow you to run the signal for the L/R speakers through the sub so that you dont need a dedicated subout on the dac/amp. the sub will just pull the signal it needs for its sub stuff and will pass the rest on to the L/R speakers. its just a bit more wires running around but can open up a lot more options for the dac/amp.

thats how my current computer setup is. i have rcas from the dac to the sub, then from sub to my amp. i did it that way so that i could have independent volume control over the sub and speakers.


this is the amp i have, it has everything you want other than bluetooth. i just dont use the dac because i have a better one already http://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=sr_1_2?

this one has everything you ask for, but no USB input. there is 2 optical inputs though, so if your computer can output optical it could work exactly how you want. http://smile.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8140-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B01AT3G1Z0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1


both are around $300, not sure if that fits your budget or what though.

u/spiral2012 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Topping Vx1 Speaker amp, headphone amp, and DAC all in one. Not the best at any one thing, but can't beat it for the price and all in one convenience.

u/Pe8er · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Looks like Topping VX-1 would be perfect for you.

Edit: just noticed floor speakers. In that case VX1 might not work, as its power output is just 25W. I'm not sure if you can find a small amp that has enough power to drive large speakers.

u/mail4youtoo · 2 pointsr/rocksmith

Look into a DAC/AMP

I spent a little money, nothing bank breaking, to get good audio from my PC

I use the Topping VX1

It attaches to your PC by USB and/or line out (the green jack)

I use the line out from my PC to the AUX input on the back of the DAC

I run from the Topping VX1 to a 8" sub from Dayton-Audio and from the sub I go to 2 Dayton Audio B652 speakers.

The sound is really good. Much better than from crappy PC speakers. Also the Topping has a switching headphone jack so you can leave your headphones in at all times.

I am using the audio technica m50x headphones which are decent.

u/nazedayo · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Buying the Topping VX1 and Micca MB42x. Do I need banana plugs (it comes out on Amazon's recommended items)? Or can I just directly wire the speakers with 16-guage speaker wire?

u/ZeosPantera · 2 pointsr/Zeos

Exactly the SD793 and SA36or50. That is a combo that is pretty hard to beat right now. I am reviewing the Topping VX1 currently and it seems to be OK in all aspects and comes to the same price as the SD+SA combo.

The sub you are going to get is the Martin Logan 300. Nothing to really choose in that size unless you get up to the SV1000.

u/massivewang · 2 pointsr/infiniti

I had an 08 g35x, I used a Bluetooth adapter like this one in my car. I plugged it into the rca port in the car and powered it via USB if I recall correctly. Worked great.

Etekcity Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Receiver Audio Adapter (NFC-Enabled) for Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ajzDybN0XX6GC

u/tonyviv · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've used this one in a couple systems and would recommend http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OBCAW2/. Another budget option that's popular is http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/.

u/cswimc · 2 pointsr/DIY

Searching around I found this forum post where the OP added a bluetooth board internally to an iPod Classic 5g. It looks like that would include some soldering, but it is doable. I'm not sure if it would all fit in the case with the battery I used.

Alternatively, you could get an external bluetooth receiver like this one. Then you have options and can connect it to any device that has a 3.5mm headphone jack that you want to use with bluetooth. The downside there is you now have 2 devices to charge.

u/Echo123321 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Why aren't you able to send audio straight from the Fire TV to the AirPods? A google search shows people doing exactly that, using the Fire TV's Bluetooth pairing setup and the AirPod's setup button. Instructions:

>With the AirPods in the charging case, open the lid.

>On the back of the case is a small button, press and hold it for a few seconds.

> Once the indicator light between the earbuds begins blinking white, let go.

> The AirPods will show up in the pairing menu on your device, select them and follow any prompts.

https://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-pair-airpods-with-an-android-device/

Another choice is a Bluetooth receiver with a 3.5 mm headphone output, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2

As for using the Echo Dot as a relay, I don't believe that's possible, because I think it can only have one active Bluetooth connection at a time.

u/aldomars2 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

I wouldn't look for products with onboard streaming, instead, add a $35 chromecast audio for all your wifi and BT streaming needs.

a couple integrated options,

emotiva ta-100
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/pres-and-pros/ta-100 - $399

I have a pt-100, which is the preamp only version, that I pair with a Dynaco St-70 and I think it is great.

Emotiva have a nice 30 day trial period.


also look at the Yamaha s301 $349 , and the s501 $549
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-S301BL-Natural-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00MXUCN0A


both of these meet your needs i think.

I wouldn't hesitate to go for the Emotiva. it has pre-outs, so if down the road you want to upgrade and get a new power amp of some kind you can use it as a preamp.

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I would forego a subwoofer, because I still live in a shitty apartment. Plus, I should add that I am cheating a bit in my list because I would actually buy used even if I had a $1000. OK, Here we go :)

Speakers Nubert nuBox 383 or Dali Zensor 3 Although I doubt they would be able to beat my current MB Quarts, they are still great speakers that go deep enough to keep me happy without a sub. I would need about 2 meters of basic 2.5mm² cables for the wiring ~$550

Amp Yamaha S-301 Because my current amp is a Yamaha AX-500 from the 80s and it is still going strong. Plus, a stereo amp is more than enough for my needs because of my source (below) and there is room for adding a sub later if I want to ~$300

Source Raspberry Pi 3 + iQAudio DAC Pro Great little device that can run debian and play music via mpd. I use the same setup right now for my source (except I have the older RPi2 with OSMC) and it works great for movies as well as music. Kodi + Webinterface makes it easy to play remotely. I had KODI+mpd before but ditched mpd when I figured out how to send video to TV via HDMI, and audio to amp via RCA. Now Kodi handles music as well ~$150

Total $1000 And I hit the sweet spot, but as I said earlier this is only a hypothetical game for me as I would only buy used in real life. I am pretty sure I can get a similar sounding setup including the source for about $150-$250.

u/MrEwts · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm assuming you're looking for an integrated amp and not a separate pre-amp and power amp? Yamaha A-S301 incorporates a loudness knob and a DAC as well.

u/jammininmypjs · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Pyle tends to be discouraged here

Topping or SMLS will be your best bet for mini amp brands

SMLS AD-18

SMLS AD-13

Topping MX3 also on sale here

Remote Ability Add On would allow you to add a universal remote to your current setup (from what I understand)

Or a PreAmp like this

Chromecast Audio would let you add wireless streaming to an amp without bluetooth

If you dont mind something larger, an AVR receiver like this or this will be your best option

Sidebar suggestions

u/iHateJimbo · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Okay, just making sure there wasn't some technical reason that you needed a discrete card.

If you're just used to them from building PC's years ago, it's different now. The only discrete sound cards I know of are the SoundBlaster AE-7 / AE-9 and the Nu Audio from EVGA. Supposedly they're both really good, but if you have a GPU they'll probably get in the way of airflow. (Unless it's water cooled)

If you just want a better option than your on-board sound, look into some DAC/Amp combos as well.

Mayflower Arc

Topping MX3

SoundblasterX G6

and a cheap but very effective option. I used this one to drive my 6xx's for a while. Was surprised how good it was compared to the price. Would reccommend.

u/GeneralDouglasMac · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Options for the 650 are fairly wide open as it is driven pretty easily.

From a $45 dac amp that is the sleeper king of budget setups: https://drop.com/buy/fx-audio-dac-x6#overview

to a Schitt Stack (modi/magni) or JDS Labs (Ol Dac/Atom Amp) for around $200

Topping Mx3 for about $130 for a great combined unit that allows for future expansion to speakers too.

and very much beyond in prices well above several thousands of dollars

If none of those tickel your fancy you'll probably get a more varied response from r/HeadphoneAdvice

But before you do; make sure you know a few things first:

What type of connections you want (USB, RCA, Optical), where you are located, where you can buy from, and your budget.

I answered with amps/dacs that won't break the bank, preform pretty good, and fit with the mid-fi level of your headphones.

u/XylefMTG · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

I'm new to this hobby & Just made my first purchases:

Headphone - Argon MK3

Amp - Emotiva BasX A-100

DAC - JDS Labs OL DAC

If my budget was $400, I'd get the Topping MX3 for desktop all-in-one DAC/AMP for $130

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5

Then I'd pour the rest of that money into headphones and/or desktop speakers:

Massdrop Sennheiser HD 58X Jubilee - $160
https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-hd-58x-jubilee-headphones?originMarketingCategory=215

That would leave you with some speaker $$$$ left over for your desk, or just use up the rest on a better set of headphones.

If this has been helpful, I'd be glad to list a few more headphones I'd consider with the rest of your (nearly) $300

Researching this stuff has been a blast. DM me if you wanna chat about it more.

Good luck!

u/MyUsernameIsJudge · 2 pointsr/battlestations

It's an amplifier.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-Original-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=kinter&qid=1565146004&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I had to swap the faceplate upside down which was difficult but worked okay. I had to shave a few mm off the PCB with a coping saw but it fits and it works. Not all the screws line up but it's held together well.

u/ahandle · 2 pointsr/phish

Check youtube for some of the budget audiophile setup vids. You can hear rich, crisp tunes for $100.

Personally, I'd check out letgo, marketplace, craigslist for the best brand you can find in your budget - regardless of age. I'm satisfied with an old Denon/JBL setup that was about $60 total. Bluetooth to Phono or RCA adapters are cheap, and there are really decent phono pre-amps out there for under $35, if that's part of your agenda.

Subwoofers are amazing, even at low volume.


u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The Micca speakers has been around for a few years and there hasnt really been any competitors in that price range and size. The Dayton Audio subwoofers, no matter wich you pick, is good for its price. You can get better speakers if you go up in size or price.


The only tricky bit is to pick an amplifier. You mentioned in a different post that you saw a Kinter amplifier similar of the Lepai LP2020TI.


That amplifier actually uses the Tripath TA2020 amplifier chip, wich is a good chip. Wich is also why it costs a bit more. The Lepai uses the Texas Instruments TPA3118, while a good chip, is not quite as good as the TA2020


https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT

u/dario_epic · 2 pointsr/headphones

The Behringer U Phoria is a soundcard. Even if they sell it talking about "audiophile quality" i don't believe it...
Maybe if you spend some bucks more you can afford the Nobsound NS-08E. It's a decent tube amplifier and it's very, very cheap.


https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-08E-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A/ref=sr_1_17?crid=R1MTCDPOFMVB&keywords=headphone+amplifier&qid=1556805776&s=electronics&sprefix=headphone+amp%2Caps%2C276&sr=1-17


To be honest: this is only an amplifier. Your next step could be waiting to have the money for a decent DAC, so you'll enjoy a liquid audio quality at 192khz. I've recently purchased the SMSL Sanskrit 10th anniversary and i can say it's a damn good cheap bargain.

u/stimuz · 2 pointsr/headphones

In my experience if they're under powered they have like 0 bass and you gotta have them at a decently high volume even fully powered to get the bass to kick. What genre are you listening to?

Also for a cheap amp I gotta suggest https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-NS-08E-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B014FASL1A/ used it for a while with my 650 and while its not true tube sound, its definitely a strong amp for 50 bucks.

but yea, if you're listening to bass heavy stuff you're gonna want a different headphone. 650s are great all around but not for that new age rap and trap or whatever that is just purely bass driven with random stuff mixed in.

u/liamosull · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

While you will certainly get better value from a ss amp in that price range here are some tube amps...

[i have this one and am quite impressed with the sound] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32443111524/32443111524.html)


["portable" but has bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/b6BB7Bbu)

Has a dac but is more expensive

[more expensive] (http://s.aliexpress.com/Znmumi67)

[bad reviews] (http://s.aliexpress.com/A32EZJJn)


[probably bad] (http://s.aliexpress.com/NvYzUVvu)


[called a guitar amp but im sure it could drive headphones] (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32748157846/32748157846.html)

[very bad reviews] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251876015253/251876015253)

[Looks okay] (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271969184294)

[Really good video reviewing several candidates. Definitely watch this before purchasing] (https://youtu.be/22kx0q5j-JA)


EDIT:Just read amazon only

Here are some amazon links to the above ones. They are a little bit over budget but are the cheapest ones.

[1. Recommended] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014FASL1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186554&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41llpyTU%2BIL&ref=plSrch)

[different one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7101CY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186722&sr=1-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41QGAaW2nnL&ref=plSrch)

[good reviews] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ADR2DTG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186784&sr=1-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51CV4EXJUzL&ref=plSrch)

[another one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I19SBK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_61?ie=UTF8&qid=1482186981&sr=8-61&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tube+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41zNfkGPeGL&ref=plSrch)

You wont need any amp for those headphones and it will have nearly no effect on the sound. I understand it looks nice but if you really want to improve your Audio, invest in new headphones.

u/Hercusleaze · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Fluance Signature Series

If you don't have an amp, the SMSL Q5 Pro powers them nicely, but puts you just slightly over budget.

u/grendelone · 2 pointsr/hometheater

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

u/fpsfreak · 2 pointsr/hometheater

How much are you willing to spend?

This looks like a good solution for your purpose without using too much space and has a remote. The used one on that page is selling for $99.

u/Will_Piss_You_Off · 2 pointsr/audiophile

SMSL Q5 Pro Digital Amplifier 2

Check this little guy out. Ticks all the boxes (other than video input), and leaves you with a decent bit of cash to buy a nice used set of speakers.

u/davidddavidson · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You need an amplifier with a built in DAC (or separate DAC unit to connect to the amplifier). Optical audio is a digital signal but the speakers need analog.

SMSL Q5 Pro should be able to do what you want.

I think this is Rule 1 territory though.

u/maccc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

SMSL Q5

​

I have one. It's great.

u/papasaurusrex · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I had the same question about a year ago... this is what i did...
Micca MB42X
Earthquake Sound FF6.5
SMSL Q5 Pro <-- I prolly wouldn't go with this again, not enough power.

u/Swarthy_Immigrant · 2 pointsr/deaf

I beta-tested the /u/Biblos_Geek headphone and pretty much I found the same positive results listed by the other reviewers I just read here.

I will mention what I purchased to pair up the 2E1+Vibe to make it work. The headphone to me was free but I purchased these parts to make it work (costs may have changed on Amazon since my purchase).

Class D amp at $22

3.5mm audio splitter $5

3.5mm male to male cable $5

So my costs out of pocket were under $35 (give or take). Set up was fairly simple - no more difficult than wiring up a TV with external speakers. I am profoundly deaf in one ear and somewhat normal hearing in my other working ear. I would be willing to beta_test for this again if asked. So a positive experience over all.

u/dj-spinnin-bones · 2 pointsr/smarthome

So i sort of went the “cheap” route for my outdoor system. Got something like this:

Lepy Amplifiers Audio Component Amplifier, Black (LP-2020A Class-D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HufwCbN9SN0FR

Then this:

4 Zone Stereo Speaker Selector Switch With Impedance Protection by AVX Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004TBF90C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.vfwCbEFM605G

Then got 4 cheap outdoor speakers.

Then i mounted an echo dot on the wall in my covered patio, and put a thermostat cover over it.

It delivers decent sound, and all Alexa-enabled functionality is there. I wanna say all of it only cost like $250.

TayMac ZTC100 Low Profile Thermostat Cover, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LY8900/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3yfwCb8Y4CC0D

Dual Electronics LU43PB 4 inch 3-Way High Performance Indoor, Outdoor & Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers with Swivel Brackets & 100 Watts Peak Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00081NX5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xzfwCbAWJDGDQ

Again - very cheap, but we don’t spend enough time outside to need to spend $1,000+ on a system. This one works just fine. I remove the amp and echo dot in the winter.

EDIT: Alternatively you could get 2-3 small amps, then hook up echo inputs to them. I think they’re still $20 each on Amazon.

u/hurikaneman · 2 pointsr/amplifiers

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Amplifiers-Component-LP-2020A-Class-D/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1543277828&sr=8-8&keywords=amplifier All I want to do is power them and connect a cell phone to them, or an audio chromecast. I am totally new to this. My stereo broke, but I don't need the cd or tape functions, just audio in.

u/jsamhead · 2 pointsr/sffpc

I'm using a Lepai 2020A. Super basic but it does the trick. They really sound quite good with it. Just don't quite have the punch in the low end I'm looking for. I'm attributing that to the small speaker diameter on the Minimus 7's. I've used that amp with some 6.5" speakers before with great low end results. I'm satisfied enough not to spend any more money on the audio setup though.

u/Mad_Economist · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

Hmm, not a lot to spend on speakers and headphones. Shooting from the hip, around that budget, I'd probably go one of two directions:

A pair of reasonable-ish entry-level speakers - something in the vein of the Micca [MB42] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B009IUIV4A) (which is passive, and so requires an amplifier, which can be [pretty cheap for a very budget option] (https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=class+t+amplifier&qid=1573193876&s=electronics&sr=1-7))/[PB42X] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC) (which is powered and so requires no amplifier) - which will run something a little north of $100 unless you're down to buy used, plus a reasonable lower mid end closed headphone ([NVX's branding of the Yoga CD880] (https://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-XPT100/dp/B0093PVTPS) is a pick I like a fair bit). These speakers will be pretty alright, albeit imperfect to be sure, and there are a few decent-to-good closed-back options in the ~$100 range.

Alternatively, if speaker quality is literally of no importance, you could go for something in the budget range of those Logitechs - there really are absolutely not options that cheap that are any good at all, but if you only use speakers to occasionally listen to youtube videos, it might be acceptable. That would leave more budget to allocate to the headphone side of things, where you'd have options like [AKG's] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svAmJheRxAg) K371, NAD'S HP50,or on the used side of the street [AKG's] (https://www.rtings.com/headphones/reviews/akg/n700nc-wireless) N700NC, which are quite robust options in the closed-back world (particularly, in my opinion, the N700NC, which sounds fantastic to my ears with its digital signal processing active, and has quite good noise cancelling as well).

It's a bit of a tight squeeze regardless - if you're down with used gear, you can get a bit more for your dollar, but at very low price points you're in a space where shipping costs may dwarf savings, so even that might not help much, outside of headphones (which don't cost much to ship, and have a quite vibrant used market).

If you'd like more information or options, just let me know - I've thrown some links in above, but I'm pretty short of time today, so I figured I'd offer what I had from the top of my head rather than leaving you waiting.

u/dredgehayt · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

few more bucks and you can do better

Actually this doesn’t have Bluetooth

u/Handsome_Claptrap · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

> Too easy. Micca MB42 and Lepy LP-2020A

Italian here. I can't find the Micca speakers and i can only find the more expensive LP-2020A+ or what seems like a cheaper copy, since it's made by NKTECH.

Is there another fellow italian here that can point me to a similar budget setup?

​

u/cashnmillions · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Amp:
Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_na6qDb4YMVMAH

Or

Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EMQI2CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Nb6qDb2ZM2TRP

Speakers:
ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers, Black (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4Q5587/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gd6qDbYGGK2GW

Or

Klipsch RB-61 II Reference Series Bookshelf Loudspeakers, Black (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040LRI96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9e6qDbSSPBRJ6

Or

Polk Audio RTI A7 Floorstanding Speaker (Single, Cherry) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V2OQL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.f6qDb5EGHRD8

u/neomancr · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

something like a micca Origain

Amazon.com: Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black): Home Audio & Theater - https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540563229&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=micca+Origain&psc=1

or this

Amazon.com: Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter: Electronics - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006IPH5H2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A17IVE6SUAZA2P

u/LoveOfProfit · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You should give us a hint of your budget.

If you get some Micca MB42x and pair it with a cheap amp such as this SMSL 36 for $50 you'll be in a good spot for under $150.

If you want a subwoofer, the infinity reference r10 is on sale currently for $120 (down from $400 MSRP). You just need to combine it with a different amp that can feed a signal to it such as the Topping MX3

u/scratchnsniff · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Just bought the same pair myself and now I'm trying to pick an AMP. How did you end up settling on the SMSL AD18? I'm looking to keep it under $150, were there any others you considered? I'm also eyeballing the Micca OriGain.

u/archetype4 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

For the amp only offering that OP linked, absolutely it's too similar.

If the DAC/AMP measures really well though, it's a good alternative against things like the Topping TP-32EX if you really like using volume pots instead of buttons.


https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K2Q5Q8HHG98NS1YF449A

u/Zic05 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Thank you the swift reply!

I just need a quick clarification, do both the Micca OriGain’s have a DAC? Because there are 2 versions: the AD250 and the A250. The AD250 has DAC in the title, but in the comparison table below, it doesn’t mention anything about one not have a DAC.

Thanks

u/victorescu · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

How good is your sound card? If you want to use a DAC external from your PC which typically improves things vs using on-board audio then the Micca Origain AD250 is pretty nice. It has its own DAC and AMP. You connect via USB or optical to PC. I use USB with it and it plays really well with windows 10. No drivers needed to install. You can set it as your default and if you turn it off it swaps back to whatever is next in priority (so your motherboard audio as an example) and when you turn it on it takes over again automagically.

u/ratbuddy · 2 pointsr/hometheater

There are a million cheap amps out there, this one will work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXV4O6B

u/tapehead85 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

This is what I bought for my PC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXV4O6B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I haven't used it much yet so I can't tell you about it's durability, but so far I like it. Simple and very compact.

u/BeardedAlbatross · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Yep this is what I'd say, they're on sale now for $99 each. OP would need some volume knob inbetween the Fiio and JBL's though. If he want to consolidate into one item he can spend the money on a Micca Origen.

Down the line he can add in the Monoprice Studio Sub.

u/magnites · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You have several options:

  1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
    Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.

    2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
    Get an inline volume control (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002J226O/?coliid=I21HE0GYZHPUID&colid=1VYF10R99G2UC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)

    3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
    Buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540965426&sr=8-2&keywords=micca+origen+g2

    This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers
u/lolspung3 · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice
u/finster009 · 2 pointsr/LS50

That receiver doesn’t have a DAC it seems. If you don’t need AM/FM and want connectivity options, something like the Topping MX3 would work well, especially on a desk.

Topping MX3 Built-in Bluetooth Receiver DAC Headphome Amp Digital Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SYC4Z5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kzxvDb7D3TBA9

Otherwise, I’d go with a cheap Denon or Yamaha over the Sony.

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrs540bt/denon-avr-s540bt-5.2-ch-x-70-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

u/Dunskap · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

TV: TCL 55S401 https://www.tclusa.com/products/home-theater/4-series/tcl-55-class-4-series-4k-uhd-hdr-roku-smart-tv-55s401

It's actually for my GF's new TV in her apartment and I was just gonna surprise her with my old bookshelf speakers.

I did some more digging and found a compact amp/dac for $99 https://smile.amazon.com/Micca-OriGain-Compact-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541790923&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Micca+OriGain&psc=1

I just think she'll stick with 2.0 and won't want to fuck around with an AVR. But that Denon receiver is a good shout nonetheless.

u/Die_woofer · 1 pointr/bravia

A quick example of the kind of setup I'd recommend.

Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NmDYCbDXQCQW5

Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker with AMT Tweeter Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOA58RS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QnDYCb3QQBX2A

This is a solid 2.0 setup. Hooks up to the tv with an optical cable, has good bass with the 6" woofers on the bookshelf speakers, and if you want to upgrade later on, the amp should last you a while.

u/kaje · 1 pointr/buildapc

You don't need a home theatre receiver. You can get DAC/amp units for a 2 speaker setup that connect to your PC via USB or optical.

I have one of these.

u/dr_photo8914 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Yea. Another option is:

Micca OriGain Compact Stereo Integrated Amplifier and DAC, 50W x 2, 96kHz/24-Bit, USB and Optical S/PDIF (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV4O6B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_umiaBb1X6B8TF

u/i3ram1rez · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile
u/Erosis · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Yeah, they are a little on the quiet side without an amp (rec1, rec2, or rec3). I personally did not like the 598CS that much, but you can always just EQ to your liking. They have some weird mid-peaks that are a bit harsh for me. The 770s and the 553s let you play with more bass without distortion for music as well. Although, the Senns are the most comfy by far.

u/clashtom · 1 pointr/ZReviews

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16150 comes back in stock 2/23. Then purchase zeos recommended pads to fit. (50 or so for both)(rewatch monoprice retros review for pad name)

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65 110 for Micca Origen G2, also gives ability to line out for speakers in the future.

u/bungwu · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Will those physical switches work for a PS4? I don't think it has analog out.

I use a Micca OriGen G2 that has a physical switch for toggling between USB and Optical which could be used for PC/PS4.

Since it is also a headphone amp I use it for switching between headphones and a speaker amp.

u/loaba · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I'm not the guy for a headphone recommendation - spent too many years with a pair of Sony MDR-7506 (which I think are great)

As for the mic and DAC/amp - like I said, you can't go wrong with a ModMic 5 and either a Schiit Fulla or a Micca Origain G2

Antlion

The Schiit

Micca Origain g2

/ the above DAC/amps are good and function on USB power, so they're portable

u/Busterreimers · 1 pointr/headphones

I'm also an audio noob, and spent hours searching for a good setup for my One X. Basically you need a DAC (with headphone output) or DAC/AMP combo (if you want more power for your headphones) with optical input. Optical INPUT is important because there's some products out there that only have optical output. There's a few options but I settled on the Micca OriGen G2 and couldn't be happier. It was simple to set up and can be used both for xbox and PC by switching between optical and usb inputs. It has plenty of power for my DT 990's that I use mostly for gaming. I'll second where someone said not to get your audio from the controller, I tried that first and was completely underwhelmed with the quality and volume I was getting. In the end you'll have to do a little research and find out what will work best for you budget/quality wise.

u/plazman30 · 1 pointr/ZReviews
  1. That's not a DAC.
  2. You don't need XLR. Those monitors will let you use a 1/4" jack.
  3. Massdrop SDAC is $80.00

    Computer goes USB to SDAC. SDAC goes RCA to 305s using this cable.

    You'll either need to get a pre-amp or adjust your volume using your computer.

    You other option is to buy a Micca Origen G2. That's a DAC with a built in pre-amp. if you get the Origen, you would need this cable.
u/freewarefreak · 1 pointr/pcgaming

This is awesome: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65

Has a nice little switch for switching between headphones and speakers

u/amygdala125 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Are you looking for an audio interface or dac/amp? There wouldn't be a reason to use an audio interface with ps4 or to use a phantom powered condenser mic for ps4, you could get something like the v-moda boom pro or whatever will work with your headphones . If want really good dac/amp for Ps4 and PC, go with the micca origin g2 and use optical, which also has a line out for monitors if need it.


https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1510845173&sr=8-2&keywords=origen+g2&linkCode=sl1&tag=zeos-20&linkId=63ea73fbbc443dca2e1a7b14e2dc4030


https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink-Black/dp/B00L3KO3YU/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537906216&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=optical&psc=1


I dont know if you can get the origen g2 in the UK, but what you need is a dac/amp, not an audio interface for ps4.


If you could be more specific with what you want to do with whatever you buy, I could maybe better help. If just wanted to record from ps4, need something like el gato capture card and then can use whatever interface want on pc

u/coltboi32 · 1 pointr/headphones

This is a good dac amp combo if your looking interested.
Micca OriGen G2 High Resolution USB DAC and Preamplifier - 24-Bit/192kHz PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TwAMBbCXNW27Q

u/LOCHO53 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm going to apologize in advance if this isn't exactly in your budget/wheelhouse, but for some excellent and affordable speakers, I recommend Miccas. They sound amazing for their price tag. Your best bet is to pair it with also one of their USB DAC's it might take a little extra set up, but they're very worth it.

u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

K, the origen g2 and the schiit fulla 2 are both dac/amp combo units. They take a usb input (audio from your PC) and run it through their circuitry. The end result is audio that's clean and distortion free. There's a TON more to it than that, but that's basically what they do. Think of them as external usb soundcards, but very high quality.

They also function as headphones amps; both are excellent at that. With the fulla 2, I couldn't move the volume past 2pm with my dt770s or it would start to hurt my ears/head.

One feature I like on the origen g2 over the fulla 2 is the optical input. Once the g2 comes back in stock I'll be getting one and "downgrading" from my magni/modi stack. I just prefer the compact nature of the g2, and the fact that no power brick is necessary.

The DT770 Pro 80 Ohm are amazing. They're closed back, but I prefer closed for less noise/sound leakage. I've tried a few sets of cans and liked these the best. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. They've been dropping to $148 pretty often, so watch the price.

u/whereismylife77 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Would This Micca OriGen G2 be a better DAC/pre-amp/headphone-amp for the extra 35$?

u/LordZig · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys. So I am a complete audio beginner and am feeling really overwhelmed with what I thought was a simple task (it probably is simple; I'm just an idiot).

I have been looking in to the Micca OriGen G2 as I like the little switch on it that can go between headphones and speakers. However, both my headphones and speakers use 3.5mm so I am unsure of how I am supposed to connect my speakers into the back of the G2 as it looks to be wanting a digital signal.

Can I even use the G2 for what I want to do? Any help is appreciated.

u/ijimerarekko · 1 pointr/audiophile

How does the Micca Origen G2 compare to the Origen+? It looks relatively new. The differences I are that it's $10 more expensive, easier to install drivers for Windows 10, and uses a different audio controller (C-MEDIA CM6631A vs VIA VT1736) and DAC (Wolfson WM8740 vs Cirrus Logic CS4392). No reviews available online though...

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/

u/schizoidpig · 1 pointr/headphones

First of all, the D30 won't be too useful to until you get the headphone amp such as the A30. Once you get the headphone amp, you'll probably want a separate preamp for speaker volume control such as the schiit sys. Alternatively, you might want to look at an amp or dac/amp with preamp functionality. For example, the micca origen could be your dac, headphone amp, and speaker volume control all in one.

u/TaedusPrime · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use this and love it. A pricier option but if you have nice headphones and value sound quality and easy adjustment it's worth it. It's got a switch on it to go from headphones back to PC speakers which I love.

u/peewinkle · 1 pointr/buildastudio

I would look at these. Here is a helpful article. If you have a line-level out already, I recommend the 2i2, it's a great box for the money.

Stay away from USB turntables, I have yet to find one that isn't total crap.

u/Nav_Panel · 1 pointr/vinyl

First two amazon results.
http://www.amazon.com/ART-Pre-II-Phono-Preamp/dp/B000AJR482/
http://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus-Preamp/dp/B000BBGCCI/

Both look like pretty decent products for their price.

u/hellomika · 1 pointr/vinyl

If your budget permits it, consider this preamp which is also a headphone amp. And it's got a tube!

Something similar and cheaper: this ART, probably not as good but not bad and versatile.

u/Meph616 · 1 pointr/vinyl

I remember doing some research on this sub before buying mine, some good reviews for the Behringer 4400 was tossed around frequently. So I got that. It did its job, but it had a pretty weak output honestly.

I then did some more digging and stumbled across the ART DJPRE III Phono Plus. I got this one because the gain/output was adjustable, and I've used one similar in my local record shop and liked that feature. Plus it has the function of hooking it up to my computer via a USB port and transferring some of my records I don't have digital copies of.

If the USB function doesn't sound necessary then I'd look into the DJPRE III which looks to be mostly the same minus the USB.

Volume wise if I plugged in my iPod with the Behringer it could be at '45' on the amplifier while I would have to max out to '70' to have a similar volume output. Now with the ART my records are audibly as loud as my digital files. Clarity wise I have a modest system so it's clean along with being powerful enough for my needs. For reference I have a Project Debut Carbon turntable, Sony STRDH750 for my receiver, and ELAC B6 "bookshelf" speakers (bookshelf in name only, they're large but fantastic for the price).

u/lolitsluis · 1 pointr/vinyl

If you would like a little better quality, this in conjuctiion with a tt would be a lot better. It also works as a phono preamp, so you can send it to amp down the line

Something Assembled:

turntable

Phono pre with mp3

*Headphones

This is something I out together rather quickly, but it is right around $200 dollars which would leave money for a new cartridge if you'd like. You dont have to get the grado headphones, but many people love them with rock music, and souns spectacular for the money. You could guy speakers, but would need and amp, and you start getting some losses because you you cant spend as much money on quality.



u/soofreshnsoclean · 1 pointr/audiophile

Very new to this and my first 2 posts un-be knowingly broke the rules and were removed so bear with me.

  • I'm looking to hook surround sound to my pc for listening to music, gaming and watching movies; and from what I've read only the really high end motherboards have high quality sound features and shielding from interference and I don't want to buy a whole new Mobo.


  • in addition to this I would also like to have my turntable involved in this sound system so that my music, movies, and gaming are one system. (I would like to record my records onto my computer at some point also).

  • So I guess my questions are these: is there some way to hook a stereo receiver or some device to my pc so that when I'm gaming I have my full surround sound the same as when I'm just listening to a vinyl or watching a movie?

  • I think I could just connect my pc via hdmi to the big screen tv that is in turn connected to my stereo system but I'm not sure how I would get the gaming sound to play through this system if its being played over the monitor. This would also not allow me to later record my vinyl to mp3 via pc.

  • finally I'm not looking for specific purchase suggestions, merely types of devices, advice, or links to websites describing how or what I need to do what I want to accomplish as I'm the kind of person who will thoroughly research it all myself once I actually know where to start.

  • one last thing: in doing some of my own research I came across this was I on the right track thinking this is the type of equipment needed for my system?
u/jawboxer · 1 pointr/vinyl

I've had a U-Turn Orbit Plus for a couple of months, and am really happy with it. It sounds great and has worked perfectly. I thought about the AT-LP120 also, but decided on the Orbit because I like it's cleaner simple look.

I don't know anything about the Gemini and Stanton turntables you mentioned - but I think most people would be very happy with the U-Turn.

I'm not sure how much of a difference in sound there is between the AT95 cartridge that comes with the Orbit Basic and the Grado Black that comes with the Orbit Plus... but if it's anywhere close, I think you'd be pleased.

One thing that some people list as a downside is that it doesn't have a cue lever - but that hasn't bothered me. U-Turn is releasing a cue lever as a $40 add-on soon.

I'm using mine with the ART USB Phone Plus preamp, because I wanted to transfer some music to my computer. My one complaint about this preamp is there is no power switch... it's always on unless you unplug it. Also, this one does NOT come with a power supply, you have to buy that separately (or just keep it plugged into your computer's USB port for power).

The non-USB version, the ART DJPRE II DOES come with a power supply (but still no power switch).

u/DeepNode · 1 pointr/DJs

I use a Rane SL3 currently, recoring through serato. But previously I used a RCA -> 1/8" connector going from the record out to my laptop's input with Audacity. You should probably look at getting an external ADC if you are having problems with the cable, laptop, or mixer out. Introducing a ground loop eliminator between your mixer and laptop doesn't hurt. From what it sounds like you might be looking for something like this: USB ADC, Amazon, $79.00

u/hurrayforzac · 1 pointr/vinyl

do you already have any kind of turntable? if not, i'd recommend doing this:

this turntable for $70.

this cartridge for $45.

this preamp for $80 converts to USB and seems pretty solid.

that comes to probably $250 including shipping (if you don't have amazon prime). you can spend any part of the remaining $100 on a better cartridge which will improve sound quality at every price increase. audiotechnic makes very solid low-end carts.

edit: or you could skip the USB preamp and spend the cash on another preamp and a new soundcard with a line-in and some cables (the cables don't need to be fancy).

u/cobraxstar · 1 pointr/mgmt

You dont need one though, if you can find a way to connect your AV’s to a soundcard or get a dedicsted usb phono preamp you can rip vinyl.

Heres my recommendation from having owned it solely for vinyl rips.

https://www.amazon.com/ART-USB-Phono-Plus-PS/dp/B000BBGCCI

u/DjGene · 1 pointr/DJs

Get this pre amp. Plugs USB right into your computer. Download Audacity its free and just rip them at 16 bits and save them at 320. Grab a beer watch tv or surf the web and just let them do their thing!!! Monitor them and keep it quiet in the background you will have them done in no time!!! Good Luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BBGCCI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jamalstevens · 1 pointr/vinyl

You could add something like this into your mix:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002TD4GME/ -$200+

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BBGCCI/ -$76

It would go between your lp120 and amp. You'd want to turn off the lp120s preamp (it's supposedly no good anyways) and then you'd be good to go!

(P.s. there are a bunch of things like this, the bellari rolls vp29 has headphone out but no variable output volume so you'd need a headphone amp, but that thing is only $49ish so you could do it)

u/gatesphere · 1 pointr/vinyl

I am! I'm using the ART USB Phono Plus and I love it. It is admittedly overkill, though -- internally it has the same preamp circuit as the ART DJPre II.

I grabbed the USB Phono Plus over the DJPre II because the Phono Plus also has a USB output and a built in headphone amp. My setup didn't have a headphone output and I wanted to listen at night without waking the neighbors. The USB output is also a plus because I like to digitize some of my thrift finds for kicks, and I want to be able to do that even after I eventually rip out the built-in preamp (haven't done that quite yet, but I've been inside my TT -- looks super simple, even with my rusty soldering skills).

I'm really impressed with the ART, though. It has great sound for my price range. Much nicer than the built-in preamp to my ears.

u/1ManGnarmy · 1 pointr/Louisville

Are you going for "archival" quality (declicked/popped, normalized, etc) or do you just want "listenable".

My studio can help you out either way. It'd cost about the same as a converter, but would be of considerably better quality than what you'll get with the preamps and converters that you'll find in those USB boxes.

I'd recommend springing for a decent converter if you're planning on doing this any time again in the future. Surprisingly, this ART one does a pretty good job for the price.

u/Oseltaeb · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/stenseng · 1 pointr/vinyl

I disagree - I've got the Pro-Ject Audio - Phono Box MM, it's 99 bucks, and sounds fantastic!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Uuqiub0Z7YYY6

u/flamingsushi · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hey there, I want to get a turntable but I'm not sure if I should get a dedicated pre amp + amp or a receiver.

I'm going with a Pro-ject Debut Carbon and I'm considering the following options for pre amp + amp / receiver:

  • Onkyo A9010 receiver
  • Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier + Magni 3 amp

    pre-amp + amp combo is cheaper, but then I wouldn't be able to plug speakers in the future (which I might buy eventually). Currently I only own a pair of DT 990 pro, so the Magni would serve me well.

    Would I get better sound from the Onkyo or the pre-amp + amp?
u/ChanceMan · 1 pointr/vinyl

Absolutely! This is my first table as well and I love it. /u/adayinalife has the right idea, you'll benefit from some extras. For sure get a pre amp to actually hear anything unless you have an amp with a phono input already.. Totally spaced that when I got the Carbon and everything was reeeeaaaaalll quiet when I played anything... Pro-Ject makes this bad boy and I'm happy with it. It's another giant plug to deal with just fyi, not a bad trade though: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Audio-Phono-Pre-amplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462769766&sr=8-1&keywords=project+phono+amp

u/Slyver08 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Yes, indeed - my question was regarding the case if I end up buying an LP120 (because it's the one I'm eyeing right now). Now I got from another thread that my HT-R330 wouldnt do the job as for preamp and I've looked into preamps (there are SO MANY models!) and found this one. Would you recommend it for a "beginner setup"? Reviews in general seems quite positive and I'm not looking into getting a >1k$ setup for now.

If not the LP120, I'm also looking into a Project Debut Carbon DC - I'll have to wait a little more as TT are hella pricey in Canada, but from what I read the Project seems to be worth the wait over the LP120.

u/mjmilino · 1 pointr/vinyl

I actually got a Pro-Ject Preamp. I was only able to listen for about 15 minutes, but Side A of "It Still Moves" by My Morning Jacket sounded great!

u/TheDragonKnight · 1 pointr/audiophile

Will this be a decent pre-amp? Really not sure what to look for... any suggestions around that price point?

u/strategicdeceiver · 1 pointr/audiophile

you just need a phono preamp and maybe a source selector to switch between the turn table and whatever other source you would want. The JBL's have a built in amp.

here is a phono preamp

here is a source selector

u/SneakerSwas · 1 pointr/vinyl

Soooo, if I understand correct, I could buy this:


Pro-Ject Phono Box MM DC Phonograph Preamplifier,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m3cXDbXB0TS7P

Then run 3’ (or maybe 6’?) cables to it, and then 6’ cables from that to the receiver?

Thanks a lot!

u/Vinnie_Sinistra · 1 pointr/vinyl

So, with my pro-ject debut carbon, I could just use a pre-amp? like this [one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YEK1AQ/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) . And i could just hook my speakers to this?

u/mawnck · 1 pointr/vinyl

I hear good things about this guy. https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B000YEK1AQ

Anyone else have suggestions?

u/Azhdar · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hi, I bought myself a Pro-Ject Essential.
Tried it on my amp I had at home Yamaha HTR-3066 but it didn't work so I added a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM DC but it's still not working.

Can I play my turntable on this Amp if so how ?

u/spleenandcigars · 1 pointr/ProgVinyl

I'm a broke college student myself hahahaha well, i brought the LP120 but regretted it. It's cheaper than the one i think it's the best right now. The Pro-Ject is the best entry level one right now, crushing even more expensive turntables. You will also need this (or other, if you have a favourite) phono preamp.


Is a bit more expensive than the LP120 that already has a built-in phono preamp with line output, but if you search online, you'll see that the antiskating doesn't work properly. The internal preamp has a muddy sound and people tend to remove it. It's bulky and quite heavy.


If you don't understand what some thinks i mentioned is, just ask.

u/Roujj · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hi, I need some advice with hooking up speakers to my turntable.

I'm very new to all of this and I've only brought my turntable so far. This is because I'm not entirely sure whether I need to buy a preamp and an integrated amplifier, or just one of these. I think I need the integrated amplifier regardless, and the preamp will make it sound even better but is optional. Am I correct with this or not at all?

Anyway, the turntable I have is a Denon-DP300F and I'm looking to buy a pair of Misson LX-2 speakers. I was also looking to buy a
Denon PMA520AE Integrated Amplifier with a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier - where I would connect the two red and white cables from my turntable into the Pro-Ject Phono Box preamp, then connect that to the integrated amplifier, and then connect it to the speakers. Excuse my most likely horrible wording/terms.

Is this the correct way to go about this? Is the preamp I'm looking at buying optional or compulsory? Do I just need the integrated amplifier and not the phono box preamp?

I really, really appreciate any feedback on this because I've been reading this sub and researching everywhere and I can't find a definite answer that makes me confident about making these purchases. Thank you!

u/The_Kraken_ · 1 pointr/audio

I have a pair of bookshelf speakers that I recieved second-hand. I bought a simple T-Amplifier for them, and they sound great. They could probably take more than the 15 watts, but it still sounds fine.

u/DoctorWorm_ · 1 pointr/battlestations

They're pretty cheap speakers. You don't have to be an audiophile to hear the difference between cheap computer speakers and proper home audio equipment.
Computer speakers may be all you can afford, as high quality speakers are usually over $100, but at the $200 price range, there are much better choices than computer brand speakers.

If you want simple plug-and-play speakers, these Audioengine A2s are pretty good.

If you want better sound at this price, you can go with a separate amp, speakers, and subwoofer. Dayton Audio is the most cost effective brand at this price point.
Speakers: Dayton Audio B652 ($51.99)
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 ($79.00)
Amplifier: Dayton Audio DTA-1 ($46.95)

This combo will blow away any multimedia speaker set, both in quality and simply how loud it can get. and at $177.94, it's $30 cheaper than the Corsair speakers.

If you're spending more than $100 on speakers, you'd be stupid to get computer/multimedia speakers.

u/Moogagot · 1 pointr/hometheater

Will they all be close enough to wire to the same source? Something like this with a bluetooth receiver could work and it's battery powered. I have two of those amps for portable speaker project and they do a good job.

I'm not sure how you would wire them mono though.

u/tehLorax · 1 pointr/gaming

Get one of these and hunt around your local craigslist for a pair of polk/sansui/cerwin vega/jbl bookshelf speakers, preferably with a 6 inch driver. It'll sound so much more detailed.

u/flwzy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Wow thanks for writing that up! I wasn't trying to spend all that much money on an amp so do you think this would be decent?

u/lmstaple · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Class T Digital AC/DC Amplifier 15 WPC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zGL2BbZX4GWAT


Here is the link to the amp I have ordered.

The speakers are Digital Audio 2002
Model :AD1400SL digital audio pro series.

u/Guyon · 1 pointr/audiophile

1. What is your budget?

Potentially up to $300, but I don't want to spend that much if I don't absolutely need to. It just means I won't get it sooner.

2. What are you looking for?


An upgrade to my Dayton Audio DTA-1 Amp / better alternatives to the Monoprice Stereo Hybrid Tube Amp with Bluetooth.

Something with:

  • Volume control
  • Speaker wire output, headphone output
  • Bluetooth would be a nice bonus.

    As long as audio quality is no worse than it is now (not bad), I'm happy. Currently, the closest to what I'm looking for is that Monoprice tube amp.. I know it gets a bad rep, but it fulfills the features that I'm looking for. I'm definitely not attached to it, so I'm absolutely welcome to better suggestions.

    3. How will you typically be using the gear?


    At my desk, with my bookshelf speakers two feet to each side of me.

    4. What gear do you own?


    Currently Dayton Audio B652 w/ T-amp This kit.

    5. What do you intend on using for a source?


    Two computers, and Xbox One, and potentially Bluetooth if possible. I can use splitters for these.

    6. What material will you be using your gear for?


    Gaming, generally broad music styles.

    7. Are you willing to buy used?


    Sure, if it's actually feasible. I'm not Goodwill hunting for two years.

    edit: I ended up getting a refurbished Denon AVR-S500BT for $160. I feel like this was a great improvement.

u/beige4ever · 1 pointr/vinyl

The phono preamp sections of typical receivers are usually not great, just adequate. You can get do better with the modular approach, buy the preamp amd amp separately . for a preamp I had for a few years used this:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT-PEQ3-Phono-Equalizer-Japan/dp/B00008B5PC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1453821221&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+technica+preamp

As for the amp.. There are tons of budget mini amps out there. I still use a 30 dollar one sometimes.. http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1453821470&sr=1-11&keywords=Tripath

u/_jackeane · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I don't really know too much about setting up a system. Right now, I'm mainly planning on using it for music and some gaming/tv from my pc. Have a small room and not a big budget (college student), so following the recommended speakers above I'm planning on getting the Micca MB42X speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2).

Following this 2.1 setup (http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png), it looks like I'm gonna get this DAC (https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI).

The recommended amp from above, the SMSL SA 60W, is unavailable from most places. Out of these two options which one is the best for their value?

Pyle (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036VO6G4/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza)

Dayton (https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1322387040&sr=1-17)

Feel free to recommend me any other amp you think would work for ~$75 or less, it just has to have a 3.5mm input as well as an RCA input. Thanks for the help in advance friends, means a lot.

u/LavenderCactus · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

After more thought and seeing the shipping cost from Parts Express, I ended up just buying the Dayton Audio DTA-1 amp tonight instead. People seem to be more satisfied with it straight out of the box than with the Lepai, and I figured I may as well just put the money that'd be wasted on shipping the Lepai amp from Parts Express toward a better amp I could find on Amazon. (I'm not really wanting to wait 10 business days / 2 weeks just for free shipping from PE, and I get Prime free 2 day shipping on Amazon, which is my main reason for wanting to buy from Amazon.) I also ended up ordering the Micca speakers since they're more positively received and also come with the possibly of easily upgrading with a crossover kit if I ever want to do so in the future.

u/imaturningjapanese · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hi r/audiophile,


I purchased an amplifier Dayton Audio DTA-1 Class T Digital AC/DC.


My question is, is it ok to be turned on 24/7? Does it use a lot of electricity even when idle? Should I turn it off when not in use?

It is for the living room speaker. I either use it or not.

u/lore_recker · 1 pointr/vinyl

The Onkyo A-9150 is a good little amp. It has headphone and subwoofer outs, line- and pre-outs, along with plenty of room to grow. It will function as a preamp should you decide to add a tube amp later. I have one and I adore it.

Edit: Corrected link.

u/UndeniablyRexer · 1 pointr/audiophile

Looking to replace my 4 channel integrated amp used for music and home theater.

My Rotel RA971 is on its last legs, though it performs wonderfully otherwise. I use the two extra channels to power two rear speakers for "surround sound". With that in mind, would it be better to get a receiver, which is meant for surround sound? Does a receiver do surround sound better than a 4 channel amp?

These are the two I'm comparing right now, suggestions are welcome:
http://www.amazon.com/Marantz-NR1504-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B00BLZDKX2
http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK

u/bagheera74 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Sorry. I mean that there is an Onkyo that is made with upgrading in mind but the Yamaha is supposed to have better sound.

If you scroll down the page you will see that they make a power amp that is intended to go with the integrated: https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK

I don't want this Onkyo but it gave me the idea that if I get the Yamaha it would be nice to be able to upgrade with a separate amp down the road.

u/Pondered · 1 pointr/vinyl

What was the model of your old turntable? It may have a built in phono line already.

I also think recommendations also depend on your location due to shipping.

Most would say with that budget, it would be better to buy a standalone phono and spend the rest on a receiver/amplifier. I'm not well versed enough with amplifiers to give a good suggestion.

Recently, there was this Yamaha stereo integrated amp model on the front page with praise from this post, using a Pro-Ject table and the Yamaha via phono. Perhaps you can inquire from there about the model.

I use an Onkyo A-9050 integrated stereo amp with a Cambridge Azir 655p phono stage. Though from various reviews online, the Schiit Mani is a better deal price wise. The one issue is that it is made in the US so I don't know if they ship internationally.

u/TheDruid666 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking to build a semi-affordable home audio system this year. I'm gonna start buying components with my tax money, so it's time to seek some quick suggestions. I am pretty much set on the turntable and receiver. And I have narrowed my speaker options down to 3 final contenders. Basically I need help deciding which of these 3 speaker setups will sound the best for my personal taste (music only, no movies. Mostly stoner rock, doom, classic rock, hard rock, blues, reggae, funk... you know, mostly bass heavy rock).

The turntable I chose is the U-Turn Orbit Custom with acrylic platter and Ortofon 2M Red cartridge.

The receiver I chose to go with this turntable is the Onkyo A-9050. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RsWMybSP4ZYZR

Now onto the speakers. My budget is $500 but I can go over a little bit. This setup will be in my living room which is smallish to regular in size. Also, I have hardwood floors if that matters. Sooooo... Which of these 3 setups will sound best with this turntable/receiver???

  1. ELAC Uni-Fi UB5 Bookshelf Speakers ($499 a pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRYWVG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8EWMyb1SZ3EMZ

  2. Klipsch R-26F Floorstanding Speakers ($279 each, $558 a pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMDYM6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sFWMybEGZCMSZ

  3. ELAC Debut F5 Tower Speakers ($279 each, $558 a pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014GSEPY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rGWMybR17AP0S

    Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!
u/the_monster_consumer · 1 pointr/audiophile

My opinion when it comes to B&O gear is that it is all looks and does not offer quality sound. In your shoes I would consider selling the speakers and buying some proper stand mounters like Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 or better.

That said, I also think you are thinking about this in a slightly convoluted way. I would be looking for a cheap integrated amp with a phono stage built in. Something like the Onkyo A-9050 would suit you well for just over the upper end of your budget. It also has a much bigger knob than the Schiit Mani and so would be easier to adjust the volume on. It also has a DAC so you can hook up your computer if you ever decide to, optical input if you ever want to add a TV, etc.

Just some things for you to consider.

u/CrustyBuckets · 1 pointr/techsupport

Throw in my flat screen TV as an audio input and I would need a digital optical input?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B00LIQ3NM2

u/gimmebackmyracecar · 1 pointr/hometheater

I really like this one, built in high quality DAC too: http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK

u/DethFiesta · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Well, if you are hearing some noise from the output then a DAC may be worthwhile depending on the amount of noise. The differences between DACs are quite small, like -60 dB or more unless you are comparing a toy DAC to something super high end. What that means is that yes, there is a measurable difference but the difference isn't audible. Don't trust what people say: the Placebo Effect is very strong in audio circles.

The human brain is not a reliable arbitrator of sound quality when it comes to tiny differences like you hear between DACs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYTlN6wjcvQ

Your mobo DAC is of adequate quality overall, but the fact that you hear some noise means that the signal is being degraded after it is converted to analog. Given that, you might benefit from an outboard DAC.

Given that you also need an amp and want to use both headphones and speakers, why not pick up one of these sweet new Onkyo amps?

It includes a high quality DAC and there won't be any added noise after the conversion to analog like on your PC. Just run optical cable from your PC to it and boom -- noise free sound from the PC. It has tons of inputs, even including a phono input if you want to go even more audiophile and start rocking vinyl. It also has a sub-woofer preamp out which is super handy for 2.1. Depending on how efficient your speakers are, the 75WPC on offer should get plenty loud to rock a party.

Of course, this amp eats up a good chunk of your budget, but it will get you in a great place as far as DAC and Amp. I'd get this and then your speakers of choice. Live without a sub for a while and save your pennies for the sub once you can afford it.

Here's my other best piece of advice: buy used. It's just past the holidays and people are unloading old gear like crazy on craigslist. You can probably find speakers/headphones/amp that would normally be beyond your budget for sale super cheap. Most audio gear is quite reliable (especially the higher end stuff) and I've always found used to be a MUCH better option in terms of price to performance than buying new.

Good luck and have fun. Feel free to ask anything else. I'm sure other folks will have advice for you too -- these are just my $.02

u/tiserk · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/Doodsmack · 1 pointr/audiophile

I have an Onkyo A-9050 (https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK). Ever since I set up my Epos Epic 2s it didn't seem right, like the speakers were just not being brought to life fully. Recently I redid the wiring, change impedance setting to 4 ohm, put sand in my stands, and turned on "phase matching bass". The last thing in particular seemed to bring the speakers to life, the bass exploded and everything sounded more vibrant.

Come to find out I had connected the speakers backwards. Switched the wiring for L and R. Now, phase matching bass doesn't have the same effect. It just ups the bass a little bit, but doesn't have the same transformative effect, and the bass is not as loud as before. I then switched to bi-wiring, which did not help.

Everything was perfect before except for L and R being backwards. Would that have caused the "phase matching bass" mode to behave in a different way??? This makes no sense.

u/nm1000 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Just to be sure, the term receiver has been badly abused in some of the comments -- suggesting that the term receiver implies home theater equipment. However there are stereo receivers too. A stereo receiver is a stereo amplifier with an built in radio tuner.

Low cost AV Receivers (home theater stuff) often have optical digital inputs.

It is harder to find optical digital inputs on stereo receivers and integrated amplifiers -- and they tend to be more expensive.

However the Onkyo TX-8050 is available for about $240 right now:

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-8050-Network-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B004UR486G

Onkyo has an integrate stereo amp with a DAC

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9050-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B009JBZFVK

I have an HK 3490 with an optical input. The HK 3490's price fluctuates wildly. It ranges from $300 - $450 from month to month.

I can't say that the built in DACs in any of those units is better than the DAC in the Macbook. You might be better off using the analog output and choosing from a wider selection of Amps/Receivers. But a built in DAC is nice if you should get something like an Apple TV which does not have an analog output.

u/BadWing · 1 pointr/audiophile

Trying to find a decent amp for my B&W CM 4 speakers. So far this is the best looking one I've found in terms of price / performance.
Amazon Link

Is there a reason I shouldn't buy it and get something more expensive?

Budget: 300-600$

Requirements- Has volume control (integrated amp?), headphone output, RCA input

u/thesnakefoot · 1 pointr/audiophile

http://www.chanemusiccinema.com/chane-loudspeakers/A1rx-c

These speakers are great for the price

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426927052&sr=8-1&keywords=bic+subwoofer

I hear this sub is great for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009JBZFVK?psc=1

Sweet little integrated. Lots of inputs and a sub output. Should work great with all this.

u/ygaddy · 1 pointr/audiophile

You don't need a Sonos (or Apple gear for that matter), there are much cheaper DIY solutions. A Raspberry Pi + a decent DAC (like HiFiBerry) + VolumeIO software gets you functionality on a par with Sonos for around $100 or so.

You could save a little more money by picking a cheaper integrated amp. The Yamaha A-S500 goes for $400. Amazon has had the Onkyo A-9050 for as little as $300.

You don't necessarily need floorstanders, 2.1 systems comprised of good bookshelves and big bad subwoofers can be sonically more impressive than floorstanders (and cheaper to boot). An $800 sub with $500 bookshelves is very frequently going to be a better choice than whatever $1,300/pair floorstanders you can find.

If you are intent on getting a relatively low-wattage amp (like some of that entry level NAD stuff), I would second the idea of the guy that suggested Klipsch. Their stuff is a good value and is much more efficient than most speakers.

Good luck.

u/Cliffordduhh · 1 pointr/battlestations

Gaming headphones have a different composition and purpose than studio headphones. I don’t think you’ll need a different amp for the Astros.

I had this Topping VX-1 (Amazon) which powered my desktop speakers, and was also a DAC and amp for my headphones (ATH m50). You could toggle the output signal to speakers, headphones, or both. It was a decent, little device. Not the best quality, and if I’d spent any more on headphones I would be using a nicer device. But it just died on me after three years. Might suggest you look for a basic audio/sound switcher instead.

u/jcoe0723 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Alright peeps...Hopefully I can get some help here. I currently use an old Lepai LP-2020A+ amp for my Micca speakers...It seems to be acting up as of late, the left speaker cuts out a lot and I have to move it around to get it work again.

On the other end, I use the small FiiO e6 for my headphones. To make things short...I want to combine these two into one device, if possible.

I saw this product:

https://www.amazon.com/TOPPING-VX1-Tripath-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469052909&sr=8-5&keywords=Topping+amp

Which seems to be what I'm looking for...Unless I'm missing something? This would indeed let me run my speakers, then when I want, plug in my headphones on the front...Correct?

Thanks for any help provided!

u/craig_s_bell · 1 pointr/ZReviews

If you don't need a great deal of power, there's the Topping VX1. It also has a decent DAC via USB input, and goes for (as of current) under $82. One nice feature is you can switch outputs without unplugging your headphones (or use both simultaneously).

Downsides: The analog volume knob can make noise when you change the volume (true of most inexpensive amps), and the bright blue LEDs can dazzle in low-light conditions. While it doesn't offer a large amount of power, it's plenty for my needs (plenty loud for near-field use in a medium-sized room).

u/UnstableFlux · 1 pointr/audiophile

Getting a new desktop setup, budget is $300-$350, looking at combining the following:

u/bigceej · 1 pointr/audiophile

Get a pair of Micca MB42X
Powered with this

And get this as your source http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28

Only reason I recommend that amp is because the dac is built in and your using bluetooth as the source. Otherwise I would get a smsl SA50, with a behringer dac, but you would have bluetooth with that

u/labric · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I am looking for the same kind of solution in the same budget with an additional requirement: the ability to switch between speakers and headphones with a physical switch.

Here is a thread at ASR with some relevant options: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dac-with-physical-output-selection-switch.6336/

Two solutions seem to stand out:

  • SMSL T1 + powered speakers
  • Topping VX1 + passive speakers

    As most people here I tend to prefer passive speakers.

    I might go for the VX1 unless I can find an alternative with a more modern USB implementation.

    ​

    ​
u/mac404 · 1 pointr/headphones

You could try something like a switch. 3.5m M to M cable to the input spot, headphone on A, 3.5m to RCA y adapter from B to your speaker amp. There are some cheap ones, but almost all of them (including this one) have at least a couple bad reviews saying you add noticeable noise. Doesn't control volume, so this gets a little awkward (control volume of headphones in Windows, but control volume of speakers on the amp). This also doesn't handle the mic, so that would still have to plug into the back.

Something like this would increase quality and make volume control easier. It's a separate DAC/headphone amp, along with a preamp that would go out to your speaker amp (again using a 3.5mm to RCA y adapter). Connecting the mic separately to the back of the computer would still be awkward. As you mention, there are separate AMPs that would have similar functionality, but most aren't necessarily cheaper than this.

There are also combo DAC / headphone / speaker amps. Something like this. Not any cheaper, though, and still doesn't have a spot for your mic. Benefit here is only needing one device for both headphone and speaker.

Creative makes a complete solution, but it's crazy expensive. I would honestly buy a USB desktop microphone rather than spend this much.

u/norepedo · 1 pointr/audiophile

Topping makes a 25 watt version of an integrated DAC/t amp:
TOPPING VX1 2×25W T-AMP Tripath Stereo Hi-Fi Power Subwoofer Amplifier USB DAC US Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WauFub0MRR9EC

I've been thinking of pulling the trigger on it for a bit.

u/metafizikal · 1 pointr/audiophile

Topping VX1 or an AVR or a stereo receiver. I think SMSL might make one that has both a headphone port and speaker outputs as well. Q5?

u/akareem27 · 1 pointr/buildapc

TOPPING VX1 2×25W T-AMP Tripath Stereo Hi-Fi Power Subwoofer Amplifier USB DAC US Digital Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6XDE4S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ntBTub0411GRE for example. .it has an amp in it..

u/supermauerbros · 1 pointr/headphones

[Reposting from a few days ago to get more opinions]

Budget: $200-300 USD.

Source: Two computers, both with USB or optical capability.

Desired product: DAC/Headphone Amp w/optional speaker amp

Currently I have a desktop and a laptop that I switch between. I have a pair of passive Paradigm Atom V.7's and some 595-modded Sennheiser HD555's. I'm planning on adding a subwoofer in the near future.

I'm on a quest to find a desktop audio solution that will do all of the following:

  • Support 2 computers, through any combo of Analog/SPIDF/Optical/USB.
  • Provide a headphone output.
  • Provide a line level output or a subwoofer output.
  • Offer an headphone toggle so output can be routed to either the line outs or the headphone.

  • [Optional] Act as a speaker amplifier in the 15+ watt range.

    I've used the Topping VX1 which is pretty great as far as the above features go, and it actually got me used to having a headphone toggle. I work remotely and so being able to literally switch from listening to music on the speakers to putting my headphones on for meetings is really lovely.

    I sent back the VX1 because the USB DAC was acting funny with one of my computers. Also because adding a subwoofer to my system would require splitting the headphone output and running it in combo speaker/headphone jack mode. Which would work, but then you'd get some extra bass when listening via headphones.

    I've also demoed the Topping TP41 which is fine but suffers from a noisy left channel and more noise in general. It also doesn't solve any of the aforementioned issues.

    I really really like the Teac A-H01 but it doesn't have a headphone toggle switch, just an auto-mute on plug-in.

    So far I've found the Audinst MX2 (currently on eBay for ~$230) which covers pretty much all my bases. I'd just have to add a speaker amp and route the line output through the subwoofer first.

    There's also the Audio Gd NFB.11.32 but at $350 I'd rather get the Audinst.

    I'm also not opposed to going the component route. Part of me is considering a mostly Schiit stack with a DAC -> Sys Switch -> Headphone Amp or Speaker Amp. The downside there is cost.

    Anyway, I'd love to hear suggestions or input. Thanks!
u/life_questions · 1 pointr/buildapc

I did not pay that - in fact paid $99 - I have no idea why it is that expensive now. I didn't even check price, sorry.

But any of the topping dual amp dacs will work

Edit: this one

u/oxjox · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yeah but you could also get this Topping VX1 and just connect your speakers right to it. I have one for my home office and one for my, uh, office office to use regular bookshelf speakers for desk speakers. Great little guy. If you want to use an external amp you're out of luck unless it has high level input.

u/tvtoo · 1 pointr/appletv

This.

There are a bunch of highly-ranked Bluetooth audio receivers (see list below). And that way you don't have to drain your iPhone battery.

You can have a tiny, dedicated device that's available for whenever you want to listen via headphones.

Examples:

u/gambris · 1 pointr/bluetooth

I believe you want a 3.5mm bluetooth transmitter for the headphone jack and a 3.5mm bluetooth reciever for the microphone jack.

u/adaminc · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Right now, regular plugfones, at least the ones I'd use, are $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugfones-Contractor-Improved-Headphones-Silicone/dp/B00RC4OEO0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464285471&sr=8-3&keywords=plugfones

You can pick up a cheap bluetooth receiver as well for $20, and be able to wirelessly transmit audio to the ear buds.

The bluetooth version of Plugfones, when they are released, will be $99.

u/rickman1011 · 1 pointr/audiophile

For a $100 budget you're pretty limited as far as a custom installed setup. Have you considered a bluetooth speaker that you could hard wire power to?

If you're dead set on an installed system you'd have to scour the used market, find a pair of outdoor weatherized speakers, run wire to them from a cheap amp/receiver, and use a bluetooth A2DP dongle receiver, probably best to purchase off amazon.

This being said, I honestly wouldn't recommend it. I think you'll save yourself a huge amount of time and energy just getting the best portable bluetooth speaker you can afford.

u/lattiboy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Don't forget, the receiver doesn't have Bluetooth. You can get a chromecast audio for 25 bucks at Best Buy right now. It works with most streaming services, and doesn't have the limitations of Bluetooth (range, audio degradation)

Otherwise, you'll need to buy a BT receiver like this:

Etekcity Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Receiver Audio Adapter (NFC-Enabled) for Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m616xbV7ZKTTV

u/dontgetaddicted · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_w8LWAbH703BJB

Turn the 3.5mm headphones into Bluetooth.

u/kallisti_gold · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I use this at work.

Etekcity Wireless Bluetooth 4.0 Receiver Audio Adapter (NFC-Enabled) for Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_wZx6iUYy58U8m

u/QARunner · 1 pointr/pelotoncycle

I have tried the tablet speakers, Bluetooth earphones and external speakers. As others have pointed out, the tablet speakers are mediocre. Bluetooth earphones work well but I find them irritating. I ended up buying a Bluetooth receiver ($23 - see link below) and connected it to external powered speakers (AudioEngine A2+). They are small speakers but they were the only size that fitted in the space I had available. I use them with a sub woofer I had lying around. If you go Audio Engine, I would go with the A5+ which are expensive ($390). Amazon has other powered speakers in the $100 - $150 range. I tried to connect powered speakers to the headphone jack on the tablet but found the system clicks very loud relative to connecting via Bluetooth

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_4aavzbVVPP63E

u/jefesteeze · 1 pointr/audiophile

Bluetooth speakers aren't great. I'd get the $120 setup in the top of the thread (but maybe use the new model SMSL amp instead, the A2) and add a Bluetooth dongle, something like: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2/

My sister asked for a Bluetooth speaker for her birthday, and I got her that setup instead. She was blown away by the sound quality improvement over her crappy little Bluetooth speaker she was looking to replace. It will destroy the Bose Revolve in sound quality and come in under the price, the downside is that it isn't very portable.

u/grevenilvec75 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You can get a bluetooth transmitter and a receiver that will allow you to use any headphones you want.

There are some that are both in a single package (don't buy that one though, its garbage. Doesnt support apt-x codec and doesnt say if its bluetooth 4.0, which means it probably isnt).

You'd have to buy two of them though, which can get pricey.

Another option is to add bluetooth to your PC using something like this and then using a bluetooth receiver like this that you plug your headphones into.

Note that I've never used any of these devices except for the kinivo usb dongle. It works pretty well, and I believe that the video on my phone synced up pretty well with the audio that was being sent to my PC. But, like I said, you should try before you buy if at all possible.

u/ShadeezBack · 1 pointr/appletv

In keeping with Apple's style, I doubt they'd implement that.

You can also use a Bluetooth receiver with 3.5 mm headphone jack output (AmazonBasics, Etek) and a splitter.

u/badawfulperson · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I actually do this the other way around. I have a bluetooth receiver so I can play music on my phone and I have corded headphones which plug into the receiver in my pocket. I do turn by turn directions too so my phone is both my stereo and GPS. Saves me a ton of money and hassle. My set-up:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S59GJKI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478532287&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+receiver

u/tugrumpler · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

I've dealt with this and unless your car has a unique radio (Volvo, Lexus, etc) that cannot be replaced you're better off installing a new radio. Adding a Bluetooth receiver and tape adapter is fiddly at best.

That said the XM radio tape adapter is less than $5 and works superbly. Plug it into a good $20 bt receiver and your set.

I've used this receiver for 2 years, it connects flawlessly and fast to iphone6 and Amazon Fire. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KXYXXK2?psc=1

u/Paladin500 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey, so I've got some christmas money and was thinking about getting a new amplifier. Currently I have the cheapest Yamaha amp, the R-201BL which pushes 100 watts but at THD of .02 and has considerable hiss when on without music playing. My budget is around 300$ and I'm looking for something worthwhile without any kind of DAC. The best one I can find is the Yamaha A-S301BL and while it has great THD and other specs I feel like my money is getting wasted on a DAC I'll never use (I have an external DAC). Should I instead get the R-S500? If there are any other recommendations I'd like an amp with a Subwoofer out because that's my next addition to my current set up. Additionally, I need wattage due to the fact that I am experimenting with RoomEQ right now and it significantly lowers the output from my PC.

Current loudspeakers: RTi A1s eventual upgrade to either KEFs Q100s or Ubi-Fi ELAC.

What do you guys think?

Also here are the relevant links.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044779GI/ref=twister_B00FPLMSK4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-S301BL-Natural-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00MXUCN0A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1483652544&sr=1-3&keywords=yamaha+amplifier

u/jboyum · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well, if you were looking for two channel I would do something like either this Yamaha or this onkyo. For speakers that would leave you 150 ea, for something like these wharfdale diamond speakers, which are a part of a larger series so you could expand them in the future to use these for surrounds and get a larger set like the Wharfdale 230's

If you want a surround sound system, you could always just pick a receiver like this Yamaha RX-V379BL or Denon AVR-S510BT

u/kerowack · 1 pointr/audiophile

A couple years back I bought a bunch of speakers when I was living in a house and had freedom, hooked them up to some junky receivers from the thrift shop and was happy enough.

I'd like to give them a bit better treatment and see just how much I like them after giving them a fair shot though and could really use some advice on the best solution to power them adequately enough for a fair trial, here's what I have, a bunch of Polk stuff:

Monitor 70:
https://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Monitor-Floorstanding-Speaker/dp/B00631YX62/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517939899&sr=8-3&keywords=monitor+70

Monitor 40:
https://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AM4095-Monitor-Bookshelf/dp/B0071MSYEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517939826&sr=8-1&keywords=Polk+Monitor+40

PSW505:
https://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000092TT0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517940032&sr=8-1&keywords=psw505

I was thinking maybe something like this?:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MXUCN0A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

My source is 99% high quality digital files straight from my PC (2011 MacBook Pro 15").

I'm not in any big rush so would be happy to hunt for smarter used prices, etc. just really looking for guidance. Does it make sense to connect both sets of speakers to the same amp?

Is a subwoofer redundant/unnecessary/harmful for music listening with this set up?

Side question: the Monitor 70s come prepared for bi-amping with little removable metal connectors between the two sets of connectors on the back of each speaker. Am I in any trouble if I remove these connectors and DON'T bi-amp?

Thanks a lot for any help.

u/zed857 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you can swing $350 or so, this Yamaha is a very nice amp and does not need an external/separate phono pre-amp or an external headphone amp. It also has one coax and one optical digital input.

u/ilikemetalandcomics · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Yamaha A-S301BL Natural Sound Integrated Stereo Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXUCN0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lWQ4CbX9CZKTJ

I almost went with this, but ended up going with the NAD 3020 v2 due to it's smaller form factor. I had an older Yamaha that sounded really excellent given its age and price point.

My only experience with Onkyo was problematic; just out of warranty and speaker channels started cutting. Seems to be a somewhat common problem which they've attempted to fix by extending warranty coverage; I missed that boat. Cost me about $80 to repair, and it now my son's first official stereo to listen to music that I can't stand, like all children do.

Technical issues aside, my Onkyo was a home theater receiver so it had all the bells and whistles. It sounded very crisp and clear; performance was not an issue. Should at least consider something with growth potential I. Case you decide you want a center channel, etc. Good luck!

u/Skalpaddan · 1 pointr/turntables

I would say that this amp together with this Kef or this Klipsch would probably make you happy and get you a lot of bang for your bucks.

Edit: Sorry! I saw that I went over your budget by a little bit, but it's only about 10% more, and it probably would be worth it.

u/Jeff9Man · 1 pointr/audiophile

Ok, I'm probably going with the Quad's with an eventual addition of a pair of the L 12 subs.
Hopefully these next questions aren't too stupid...
First, I see the Yamaha has only 1 subwoofer output. Will that single output work for a pair?
Second, can I buy a single L 12 sub and pair it with a second later or do I have to get them both at the same time?
Last, what is the best way to get my music, (that is mostly in the form of MP3's) into (or through?) the Yamaha?

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/audiophile

Check out an integrated amp. Something like the Yamaha AS-301 would be a good fit.

u/HellaBester · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Undecided as of yet. Currently looking at a few options, the Yamaha gets a decent amount of praise, but I was really hoping to avoid the "big black box" though I am a function over form sorta person. The speakers should be 4ohm impedance but I'll test all that once the build is complete. Let me know if you have any suggestions, this is my first build and first "real" speakers. (currently have Pioneer SP-BS22-LR driven off some garbage lepai amp)

Yamaha A-S301BL

Onkyo A-9010

Emotiva Fusion Flex

Marantz PM5005

u/Bradlyeon · 1 pointr/VinylDeals

step 1 is to check craigslist for vintage gear. some towns have a healthy market for it, some don't. I got a BEAUTIFUL Sansui 6060 for $80. Vintage can not only be more affordable, but are generally built like tanks, and will give you a nice "warm" sound that alot of modern stuff fails to get you. Ebay is also a valid option, but you just have to be really careful. Do your research. buy from people with alot of pictures and good descriptions, and preferably, some kind of return policy. expect to pay an extra $30 to $60 for shipping, but IMHO this is still better than buying new.

if you HAVE to get new, the Onkyo A-9010 and the Yamaha A-S301 are good for the $300-$350 price range. Both also have a phono stage, something harder and harder to find on modern amps, especially in this price range.

u/Samzflow · 1 pointr/audiophile

Best bang for your buck will be an integrated amp. Something like the budget stereo amp Onkyo A-9010 http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463557044&sr=8-1&keywords=onkyo+9010 If you want to include the surround speakers you will be compromising on the quality of your stereo system but something like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463556947&sr=8-1&keywords=RX-V379

Seeing as you play a lot of music from your computer it might be worth looking into getting a DAC although the onkyo amp mentioned above already comes with a built it DAC it only has optical or coaxial inputs. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463557388&sr=8-1&keywords=uca202

edit: I didn't check your speakers, it is possible they need more power to run than the above mentioned amps.

u/LouSweetwater · 1 pointr/vinyl

You could always consider something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8

This Onkyo has a built-in phono preamp and great reviews. Plus you don't have to worry about it breaking or needing to be serviced like a vintage amp.

That's an integrated amp. It's pretty much like a receiver, but it has no tuner (FM/AM radio) in it. That usually means it'll have better audio than an equally priced receiver because the money that would have been used for the tuner is instead used for better audio parts.

u/ColdDonut · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I'm looking at this one and this one

u/starkimpossibility · 1 pointr/audiophile

The term "head unit" is typically associated with car audio, referring to the interface/receiver at the front of the car. However, I see now that you weren't referring to the amp/subwoofer, but to the Logitech's volume controller. The volume controller is needed because the speaker amp is inaccessible, being in the same box as the subwoofer. Usually in hi-fi/home audio you use the speaker amp or a preamp to control the volume (or the amp's remote control), so you have no need for this kind of unit. There are separate volume controls available though (e.g. Emotiva Control Freak), which are often used with powered speakers. I don't think hi-fi/home audio has a direct correlate to that unit, because usually your speaker amp is not inside your subwoofer cabinet, so you don't need one.

A powered subwoofer is a subwoofer driver (speaker) and a subwoofer amplifier in the same box. The alternative would be a passive subwoofer, which you would connect to an external amp. While most speakers are passive (requiring external amplification), most subwoofers are powered.

Speaker amps usually look like this or this. So no, most amps don't look like a subwoofer box combined with a separate volume controller.

u/newtextdocument · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you are in the U.S. then something like the Onkyo A-9010 or 9050 would work for you (depending on what power you want). It is a straight up stereo receiver with option to add bluetooth if you want. Not sure on pricing but it's inexpensive.

It has a built in DAC and digital inputs as well.

Amazon has both for under $300

https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8

My Rega P3 is currently running off of the A-9010 in my small listening room and it sounds great.

u/DarkLordGwyn · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hello,

I just wanted some opinions on my setup that I'm asking for Christmas. and yes I know buying used gear is a better choice but I can't expect people giving me gifts to go hunt at thrift stores and craigslist.

Denon DP 300F

Onkyo A-9010 Integrated Stereo Amplifier

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

The Denon has a pre-amp right? So, do I need the Onkyo Amp? If I don't "need" the Onkyo amp would it still be worth the money e.g. improve the sound a noticeable amount?

Is anything I'm buying too cheap or too expensive for my setup? (I'm looking for an entry level setup)

How much more will I get out of a better turntable like the Orbit U-Turn would I, a novice, notice a difference? And if I do get the Orbit (and the Onkyo) should I get the Orbit with or without the pre-amp?

Finally am I making any huge mistakes? Are there any better value options than the parts I've chose?

u/ajjjas · 1 pointr/audiophile

That sub is pretty strange, it looks like it came with a set at some point in the past. I'm really not sure how that gets powered. How were you using it before?

With your setup, I'd actually recommend just a stereo amp and a speaker switcher, rather than a full-blown surround receiver, if you're not using it to support video. There are lots of great stereo amps out there, but my personal favorites are the Emotiva A-100, and the Onkyo A-9010. Neither has a remote, but I've had both for some time, and both have served me well for all the different kinds of speakers I've thrown at them. If you're looking for something a little cheaper, this SMSL DAC/Amp sounds great, and has a remote.

u/bit_pelican_adjuster · 1 pointr/audiophile

Budget: Like to keep it under 800.
What I Need: Looking for an entry level system with a receiver to build around. Only want 2 speakers.
Where it will be used: In the family room of a 1600 square foot single level. The room is 15 x 15.
Use: Music (variety). Will use with Apple TV and PC for gaming and movie watching.

I was thinking about going with the Onkyo A-9010 https://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B00SY20TE8

Speakers: I was going with floor speakers. These look good. Pioneer SP-FS52. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-FS52-Designed-standing-Loudspeaker/dp/B008NCD2S4

Questions:
I want the system to be a incognito as possible to placate partner. Will the system sound good? Would lay people be impressed with the sound? Or is going to sound like a glorified 5 speaker special from Best buy? I'm willing to spend more on the speakers, up too $500 if there is a significant difference that a normal person could tell. I am not interested in a loud or party system. I'm in my mid thirties and got a little one. I am interested in new right now, and preferably from Amazon. Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

u/folie-a-dont · 1 pointr/VinylDeals

This is a great budget amp for a turntable if you are going the "new" route. Built in preamp, tons of bells and whistles and great sound for a low price. My buddy has this model paired with some B&W 602s and it sounds fantastic. Check the graph! https://camelcamelcamel.com/Onkyo-A-9010-Integrated-Stereo-Amplifier/product/B00SY20TE8?active=price_amazon&context=top_drops

u/Breesfan91 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Is my receiver holding my system back? The sound doesn't sound as good as expected. Can anyone smart recommend a better one (> $1000) that will use my speakers to the fullest.

Receiver: Yamaha RXV-379 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.ca/Yamaha-RXV-379-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

Speakers
Klipsch Synergy F-30 Premium Dual 8" Floor-standing Speaker Single
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8X036X6383&ignorebbr=1

Rears
R-14S SURROUND SPEAKERS
http://www.klipsch.ca/products/reference-surround-sound-speakers?model=r-14s

Centre
Klipsch Synergy C-20 Premium Dual 5.25" Center-channel Speaker Single
https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8X036X6839&ignorebbr=1

Subwoofer
Klipsch Reference R-8SW Subwoofer
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16886200085R&ignorebbr=1

u/SluttyRonBurgundy · 1 pointr/vinyl

Great question! So many options.

Used:
I think I would see if I could score an SL-1200, a pair of Yamaha NS-1000s or Pioneer HPM-100s, and spend whatever's left on the best receiver I could find.

New:
TT--Pro-Ject Debut Carbon DC Esprit. Or, perhaps better yet (if you're willing to go over budget), a base Debut Carbon DC and upgrade the needle to 2M Blue--no cartridge swap required!

Speakers--SVS Prime Towers from the SVS outlet. These consistently appear on "best speakers under $x" lists and they sound phenomenal for the price. They can be used without a subwoofer, and the trial period + warranty that SVS offers makes it risk-free to audition them in the room where you'll actually be using them.

Receiver--Assuming you've gone the Esprit route, you'd have $50 to play with on a $1,500 budget, which means you're still going to have to go used on the amp. I'd hit up as many Goodwills as often as possible in search of a good receiver. I've found several really solid units for $20-80 at Goodwill and other thrift shops. If you get the base Debut Carbon DC but decide to upgrade to Blue down the road, for about $200 I like the Yamaha RX-V line. Affordable, decent power, sounds nice, digital friendly, and would allow you to expand your setup to home theater at some point if you wish. Of course, that will necessitate the use of a phono pre-amp, but the ART DJpre II can be had for under $50 and it's great.

u/srobison62 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Aventage is sold out how does this compare?

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4-TuxbG20E7KB

u/Alabaster13 · 1 pointr/Zeos

Thoughts on this sub? Click Here

And this AV Click Here

Vs this Yamaha AVClick Here

u/shwey · 1 pointr/hometheater

Gave these a try at my Best Buy. They sound pretty amazing given the size.

Is the Sony receiver I'm looking at good or should I reconsider that as well? Also thinking about the Yamaha-RX-V379 or the Denon-AVR-S510 as other options.

u/Heyheyohno · 1 pointr/hometheater

The sub is a Polk Audio PSW10 and the AVR is a Yamaha RX-V379BL.

I tried to connect them via a single RCA cable and I even did a single to a Y-splitting cable to see if it helped, but nothing. Any settings I try on the receiver and the sub don't seem to work at all. There's no output. Nothing.

u/Swagdaddy123456 · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I want to have a 5.1 set up in my room and was thinking this receiver fit my needs well.

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-1LybKBEMM47

I want to get the JBL LSR 305 for my front speakers, and use two old Yamaha bookshelves that I'm currently using for my rear speakers, is this possible? I know the LSR 305s are powered speakers so I'm not sure how they'd work with a receiver.

u/another_cube · 1 pointr/diysound

You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/

It has surround sound output and can decode HDMI audio input. That way you can play true surround sound as the movie intended.

u/dsmdylan · 1 pointr/Televisions

I'd try for something like this:

u/John2Nhoj · 1 pointr/audio

This model number is a 130 watt receiver everywhere else. Here is one one Amazon that is advertised correctly.

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451004200&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+rx-v379bl

Scroll down to see Product Specifications

This means it's 130 Watt per channel, not 650 watts per channel. What they did was add the watts per channel together to make it sound more impressive than it is for sales purposes to people who don't know any better. Other companies like Sony do this kind of thing by advertising higher wattage ratings into 6 ohm speakers, which is true, but most speakers on the market are 8 ohms, so the real wattage rating would be less if 8 ohm speakers are used.




u/boostnma · 1 pointr/hometheater

My point was to not spend money twice and buy it right the first time. This receiver will suit your needs for $220. Buy it now or wait until you have the money to do so.
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V379BL-5-1-Channel-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481907634&sr=8-2&keywords=v379

u/betoqp · 1 pointr/audiophile

My dad wants to set up the following pieces:

u/schmidty850 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey all,

I am looking to set up an AVR system and I am in need of a set of speakers to go with it. I haven't decided if I want a 2.1 system or a 5.1 system yet.

This will be the AVR system that I will be getting: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I listen to a lot of electronic music and alternative music, and then I would also use the system for movies and my PS4. I would prefer if the system be tailored for the music over the movies/gaming. I would like to spend no more than $500 on the speakers overall, but preferably around $300 would be great too.

The speakers would be centered about my TV, with my desk close by (back corner of the room).

I would love some advice as to what kind of speakers to get to create a good system for around this budget. Thank you in advance!

u/sadhappyd · 1 pointr/Zeos

Hi Zeos,

Setting up my first 5.1 system in my family room. I am on a limited budget. I wonder if you have a preference over the Yamaha RX-V379BL or the Denon AVR-S510BT receivers? Also I noticed this Polk sub-woofer wasn't listed, is it something to stay clear of? Right now I can get all of that for $420, does that seem like a good budget setup?

u/am3r7h · 1 pointr/audiophile

Can I connect this subwoofer (with speakers that use banana plugs)
https://gfycat.com/gifs/detail/blankcircularakitainu

Into this
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500106835&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=av+receiver+yamaha

????

I'm also open to other suggestions, I need to be able to connect via HDMI, banana plugs for speakers, and either speaker wire or aux for the sub, if there are any special cables pls link




u/Incursus · 1 pointr/hometheater

If you want something on the cheap, your best bet is to pick up a refurbished AV receiver so you don't have to hack together a solution that you'll never be happy with. I'd probably grab one of these and build from there.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00V5VJ3TM/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

u/yayoirc · 1 pointr/buildapc

Good call, I was actually unaware of these and for the price that is not bad, especially since you've tried it.

I'm MR. Overkill, I would have suggested this or maybe this.

u/socokid · 1 pointr/audiophile

Budget:

About $500 total, could go up to $600 for a receiver and a pair of speakers. Will add sub woofer and anything else wished for later. Located in US.

Looking for:

Receiver and 2 floor standing speakers as a budget starter kit for music listening and movies.

Usage space:

In a 20 x 25 room, speakers near one wall (will have clearance behind them) on either side of 54" TV.

Owned now:

I currently have nothing. A nice big TV (and a few input devices such as PS4 and Apple TV) but that's it. Small Logitechs in the kitchen for iPod music playing. I want to bring it all together in a nicer package in the living room for music to start.

Source:

iPhones, PC, PS4, Apple TV. I can play music, etc.. wireless through the Apple TV, so wireless would not be a sticking point in receiver options.

Source material type:

A wide range. From Mozart to Metallica, and from gaming to movies.

Buy used?

I generally wouldn't, but I am open to all arguments otherwise.

To give you an idea, this is what I had in my Amazon cart before I stopped myself and came here:

Receiver
Yamaha RX-V379BL

Speakers
BIC America Venturi DV64

Help! I like to help in the PC building department, but audio is dark magic to me. Thank you so much for any assistance!

u/Mun-Mun · 1 pointr/audiophile

So I'm using this setup for my PC. The source is a HT Omega Claro card (not sure if it matters). I found the speakers in the basement and the amp I got from my wife's old room at her parents.

The JBL Control 1's don't have any serial number or identifying marks on it but it's from the 1980s. I'm just going to assume they're regular JBL Control 1's?

The amp is I took from this http://www.usa.philips.com/c-p/MCM704D_37/-/specifications which I managed to find the service manual for so I found out it uses a "TDA7265" chip in the amp.

I set it up and it with the JBL's in place of the stock speakers and it sounds okay. Bass response is a bit lacking in the lower end, but I read it's normal for these speakers.

I should mention that the amp can't run alone, it needs the CD deck attached with a control cable since the "brains" of it seems to be in the CD deck.

Would I benefit at all in buying something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484854702&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier Other than the obvious space savings.

I also wish I could run the phillips amp unit alone, even the power cord is attached directly to the amp. But it seems like the amp doesn't turn on without the control unit.

u/mbazdell · 1 pointr/windows

Use a headphone amp. You provided no information with how your headset is connected, the kind of headset it is, the kind of computer you're using, etc.

The only suggestion is an external headphones amp that you could probably find cheaper depending on location.

u/T0oYoung · 1 pointr/audiophile

I understand Edifier comes with amplifier unlike others. I do like that towers can go on the floor instead of taking space on the desk.

How good is this amplifier paired with the Dayton towers?

https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-D-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/

u/sir_ramen · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hello there, trying to hook up an RCA sub (RT2250B) to a Sony STR-DH500 receiver.

The only sub output is RCA, and the only sub's I have use regular speaker wire.

I have hooked up my sub to the regular surround outputs for now (increased wear on the other speakers?), but I would like to know how I can hook it in properly.

I have some RCA cords from an old speaker system that I stripped to try and connect it, but it didn't work. I suppose there is to much resistance in those wires?

I think I need something like this, but that is basically what I made with the old systems RCA cables.

Thanks!

P.S.- Completely open to suggestions on upgrades, like getting this Lepy 2020A, I suppose I can hook up my current speakers to this also?

u/Botoj · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking to cobble together an inexpensive 2.0 setup for my desk. I've purchased an amp, a Lepy 2020a, and now I'm looking around for a set of inexpensive bookshelf speakers. My budget for speakers is $100 Canadian and preferably as far under as I can go without wasting money, and my only real sources to purchase a set from is Amazon or Best Buy Canada. My options right now are the PrimeCables 6.5" bookshelf speakers ($50, rebranded Dayton Audio B650 non-air??), the Micca COVO-S($50), and at a fair stretch, the Micca MB42 non-x($90).

​

Both the COVO-S and the PrimeCables sets are $50, and I can't seem to find many reviews to base my decision on. The Miccas at least have a hyper-critical review from NO Audiophile and a highly lauded review by ZeosPantera, but I can't find much on the PrimeCables speakers/ I've read that the manufacturing process of the B650s has been degraded however, and I'm worried that's been carried over to these rebrands. Would either of these options be worth the $50, or should I really just wait a bit longer and grab the MB42s? Is there something else I haven't even considered or come across? I have looked around my little city for second-hand gear, but there's really nothing interesting (some really old Paradigm V2 Titans with busted speakers...).

​

I will be using whichever speakers I get for games and music. I'm not upgrading any existing speakers, I'm simply finally getting around to picking a set up. I'm used to headphones, Sennheiser 449 to be exact. I don't have any experience in "audiophile"-level hardware. That's why I'm here, hopefully somebody who knows a bit more can guide me down the right path.

u/rjivani · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Lepai

Edit: I'm currently using this to power a pair of KEF Q100's and they go pretty loud (obviously room size matters) - mine is approximately 300-400 sft.

u/Tumdace · 1 pointr/vinyl

Whats the best/most affordable amp/receiver that Supports NAS playback and bluetooth? Possibly 5.1 as well?

If I wanted to go the cheap route, would these power a pair of Klipsch B-10's? (https://www.amazon.ca/Lepy-LP-2020A-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply/dp/B00V9AYMZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482938694&sr=8-1&keywords=amplifier)

u/-Stashu- · 1 pointr/diysound

any recommendations for the DSP crossover. also would this amp work? have that one just laying around my house

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


  • Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers 2.0 Active Near Field Monitors   ^PureLink
    ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.5/5 from 2441 valid reviews
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]
  • Lepy LP-2020A Class-D Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with US Power   ^PureLink
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    _
    Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdmbc28%2Fspeaker_klipsch_promedia_21_comouterspeaker%2Ff5culh0%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/splitsecnd · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This is the one I bought in 2013 on Amazon.ca
Link

u/Qsig · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I just did 5 Chromecast Audios and 4 Class D Amps. Does the job pretty well and I grouped the 2 main floor ones and ones in the master bedroom and master bath. All the wiring goes back to the basement (Picture)

u/Oddwin · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

> Fluance

Interesting. I just found these and think I can pair it with this and a handful of speaker wire.

? and cheap. IN Canada.

What you think?

u/-justAnAnon- · 1 pointr/hometheater

Full disclosure: zero experience with this amp or brand. But would something like this work?
AudioSource Analog Amplifier, Stereo Power A Amplifier AMP100VS for Home Sound Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ykilDbZFD96Z6

I just searched two channel amp 12v trigger and found it pretty quick. Unfortunately the well know brands that have 12v triggers are usually going to be larger multi zone amps.

u/jcacavias · 1 pointr/hometheater

I’ve been using a couple of these for years with great success.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94

They can be had for less than $100 occasionally and you can daisy chain as many of them as you like driven by one sonos connect.

I set the volume control on the unit once and then use sonos volume control from there. Works great. The units even have an auto sensing input 2 if you ever wanted to add another source like tv audio...

u/HebrewHammer16 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking at a $200-$300 budget for my first system and have settled on an Audio Source AMP100VS 2 Channel amp and Micca MB42X speakers, plus speaker wire and an RCA adapter. I'm considering either just using the RCA adapter to plug into my iphone when I listen, or buying a bluetooth receiver like this. I'd be perfectly content to do this and call it a day, except that I'd worry that using such a receiver and streaming my music would put a low cap on the quality I'd hear and effectively waste the speaker/amp setup - is this fear founded? Is there something I'm missing here? Or will I be mostly fine to go ahead with that plan.

Thanks!

u/Zxvy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

For the speaker amp, I want options for $100 and $200 range and to see the difference between the two. I've been looking at the Audio Source AMP100VS 2 Channel Amplifier or the Emotiva Audio BasX A-100 Amplifier. I prefer for it to fit on my desk.

Running the HD558 straight from my computer generates a small buzzing/hissing sound. I considered buying a 1/4 in. TRSF to Dual RCA cable but didn't want to keep switching cables whenever I wanted to use headphones or speakers. Is there something that takes in 1 input (from the Modi 2 Uber) and can switch between two outputs(to speaker amp or headphones)?

u/captaindealbreaker · 1 pointr/ZReviews

The problem with SMSL stuff is they're built as cheaply as possible and you get very little of the advertised wattage without distortion. Basically take anything they make and halve the power, that's what's actually usable.

Don't get me wrong, for budget amps they're fine. But for people looking for a quality setup, it's worth spending the extra money.

If room is an issue this AudioSource amp is pretty low profile and sounds really good https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZqYLzbYB7JBRC

For a little more money this Emotiva unit is an absolute monster and still very compact https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSCCRDH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_huYLzbMFC4ASF

As for adding a subwoofer, most will do either line in or pass through over the speaker cables. Really depends on which one you get.

u/sonic30101 · 1 pointr/hometheater

To do zone2 you need something like this connected to the rca zone2 output of the pioneer. Or something similar depending on the speakers you are connecting to it. Also the sources will need rca cables so you can select the appropriate source for routing since that pioneer will not be able to play an HDMI signal in zone2 it is analog only
Audio Source AMP100VS 2 Channel Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DCMVAbZBGDPE7

u/x152 · 1 pointr/ZReviews
  1. You sure it aint your source making the buzzing? if it happened on two amps, id be suspicious of things outside of my amps...

  2. Lots of stuff work. I suggest on a budget the audiosource amp100VS

    If you can go more, I would get a nicer amp such as some emotiva offerings. if u gotta go small form factor, SMSL sa160 works, although it probably isnt the best amplification. Also look on the used market for Adcom amps. They are super good.
u/punpunpun · 1 pointr/hometheater

That emotiva looks very cool, but why not try running the front 2 channels from the Marantz first. Then you could get away with a less expensive 2 channel amp for the surround rears: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Source-AMP100VS-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00ZSEFU94/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481988216&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

u/DOBreddit · 1 pointr/audiophile

Thanks for the reply. If I were to keep only two of the four zones on at a time through the speaker selector, would this model do the job? - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSEFU94/

u/whosaidmaybe · 1 pointr/hometheater

In response to /u/dfmz

I use an Audio Source Amp100 to auto turn on when I play music via a Chromecast Audio. It has a main audio in and a secondary line in as well as line out to feed another amp ( Daisy chain).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZSEFU94/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488122994&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=amp100

u/bgiu · 1 pointr/audiophile

thanks for the suggestions. I really like that music hall amp. I found this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSEFU94?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER. Do you think it could still sufficiently power the elacs?

u/StusK · 1 pointr/audiophile

Thank you for your reply. Do you think something like this amp could drive zone2? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSEFU94/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

I checked the manual listed for that receiver and zone 2 out is a preout. The patio and 2 future outside speakers are daisy chained and then I have the 2 speakers in the garage for a total of 4 channels.

u/Someguywhomakething · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

Alrighty, ordered this Nobsound Amp. It's an amp that can act as a preamp as well. This paired with the bluetooth module from the original setup and the MDRs, or just straight from the amp to the MDRs. If anyone's interested I'll report back.

Needed the bass and treble adjustment to adjust what pop's can hear.

u/bolts-n-bytes · 1 pointr/hometheater

Here’s some options:

  1. $22
    Lepy Amplifiers Audio Component Amplifier, Black (LP-2020A Class-D) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FZKA28Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Js1yCbM864NN8

  2. $33 for one with a true Tripath chip - what made this amp type famous, and what the lepai’s once had. Hard to find. I have two of these, one pushing large towers and it does well. Very loud at 50% volume on the amp knob. They frequently go out of stock and will probably eventually run out. Also has a true 12V 5A power supply so you’re getting the wattage indicated.
    Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-s1yCbN4DEVGA

  3. This one includes fm radio, usb, mp3.
    https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-a68-2-x-15w-mini-amplifier-with-remote-usb-mp3-media-card-fm--310-302

    All include a power supply. It’s possible to pick one that has Bluetooth, if desired. Probably $35 for one with Bluetooth. Let me know if you want me to find one of those.

    Edit; you’ll find these for $9 but they won’t have a power supply. However, if you keep a box of old cables and power supplies do check it - you would likely have a 12V supply from something else. Check polarity to be sure, and make sure it’s 12V and >3A if not 5amp.
u/J0C30 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

What are would be some good amp recommendations?

SMSL SA-36A(see that thrown around lot)
SMSL SA-36A Pro 20WPC TPA3118D2 Digital Amplifier AMP 12V Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YcUzCbJ6BSNBN

Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 5A Power Supply Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Z7DBRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2bUzCbBAGW3Y1

Nobsound Mini TPA3116 Audio HIFI 2.0 Channel Stereo Output Digital Power Amplifier 50WX2 DIY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTOAC1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qdUzCb79JSKGY

u/yolo_tron · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you are looking for budget alternatives... This tripath amp has cult following:


Kinter K2020A+ Limited Edition Original Tripath TA2020-020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio

u/bambinone · 1 pointr/hometheater

I see what you mean about the cost. For that much money I could buy two used AVR-1610s and power the surround backs with one for each channel. LOL

Any thoughts on something like this? (Other than what you've already said about class T amps.)

u/-enz0 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I've got an Audio Technica LP120 and a pair of Acoustic Research AR-8 bxi (6.5" cone, 1" tweeter), all of which I received as a gift. As far as I can tell, to get up and running I need an amp and a powered sub. Application is a roughly 20'x20' living room.

2 Questions:
What size sub should I be looking at? Is there a rule of thumb for sub diameter in relation to my 6.5" speakers?

How many watts should I look for in an amp for my application? Kinter K2020A+? Or is there something similar I should look at that can produce more watts?

u/soundblastmm · 1 pointr/livesound

I agree, you'll likely have better luck in a more home audio forum, however I do have some advice.

Your best bet would probably be to shop around at yard sales/flea markets and look for a used home theater stereo receiver. For the most part (if they support 5.1 surround), you'll get the two amplified speaker outs that you need, plus a subwoofer pre-amp out (and the 3 additional speaker outs if you decide to expand later). I've picked up many of these over the years and they usually run from free to $40.

​

If you want this faster, you can take a look at the Mini Class D "tripath" amplifiers for sale on Amazon, like this one. Run the speaker outs from the amplifier into the "speaker level in" ports on the sub. Then run the "speaker level out" ports to the speakers.

u/jk3us · 1 pointr/homelab

I don't know much about anything, but multiple places online said this one is better. I got it and have no complaints... but again, don't take my word for it.

u/deluxxxe666 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Yeah.. Im confused and Im kind of technically OK.

So if I use this amp which is 8 ohm and I plug in the 6 ohm speakers? I damage the speakers?


https://www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH190-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sony+200+watt+6+ohm&qid=1568062472&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/KelonjAllDay · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/fckdUpLion · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys,

I'm looking for a small apartment unit which will switch the input from PC / TV and a pick-up unit.

Atm i have a old Sony system from which i plan to use the speakers. They are 2 model SS-RG66A which i think are 75-100w RMS.

I was thinking of getting this Sony STRDH190 2ch 2x100w amp to use with those 2 speakers.

Total price ~200 euros.

BUT... i looked at some 2nd hand units and i found a guy selling

Sony STR-DH520 + 2 SS-F6000 Speakers for ~300 euros.

I'm not sure about the DH520 unit. I feel like it's not that great for what i want to achieve. But with the speakers it feels like a very good find.

Any tips?

u/spladow · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

TL:DR - I think that list looks good, maybe consider a vintage receiver. I hope this is helpful.

Most people around here are probably more knowledgable than I am, but I thought I'd chime in because I was looking at doing the same thing a few months ago. I looked at everything on that list when I was shopping around and they all seem like good options. I ended up buying

Audio-Technica AT-LP120 It was on sale for closer to $200 at the time, but it's about as much as a u-turn. I've been super happy with it and the wirecutter gave it a great review.

I ended up going maybe a bit overboard with my speakers and got KEF Q150's. I'm really pleased with how they sound, and they are a massive upgrade from my cheap old bookshelf speakers, but I think I would have been totally fine with the Q Acoustics, which were my second pick.

My main regret was that I bought a Sony STRDH190. It didn't sound bad or anything, but I just didn't really love the sound, and I felt it looked kind of ugly. I ended up going down the vintage receiver rabbit hole and bought a Sansui 4000. I love how it sounds, and I was able to pick one up for $150 on ebay after waiting a bit for a good option. I spent another $80 bucks getting it serviced. A warning: This is a slippery slope. I now have 2 Sansui receivers, a Kenwoood amp, the original Sony I bought, and one disgruntled girlfriend all living in a 2 bedroom apartment.

The drawback of a vintage receiver is the lack of bluetooth playing your Spotify playists. I bought a Chromecast Audio to handle that. I use Google Play music, but I think it integrates with Spotify as well.

​

​

u/TeddyKrustSmacker · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd go this way:

www.amazon.com/Sony-STRDH190-Stereo-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B078WFDR8D

www.amazon.com/Fluance-Signature-Three-Way-Floorstanding-HFF/dp/B019YBHOOA

I looked for a more expensive receiver to go with those speakers, but I couldn't find anything I liked for the money that supplied at least 90 Watts, which is what Fluance says they want.

I guess that leaves you some money for a sub, but I don't think you'll need one.

u/flatout42 · 1 pointr/ZReviews

One of the cheapest 2.1 receivers - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D

Don't know how it is, but you can find some reviews online

u/OneAndOnlyAmulButter · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I have an update. I just received the SMSL SA-50 today and from what I can tell the bass performance has significantly improved across the board - music, movies and TV. I can actually feel the bass now. But still no phone input and input switching.

I also found this Sony Stereo Receiver on Amazon today. It fits my budget, has phono input and would fit nicely in my TV stand. But I haven't heard anything good about Sony receivers on this group - so I'm very skeptical. I don't anticipate adding more speakers any time soon, so I'd be okay with this.

u/vince2398 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If I don’t have an amp, is it worth spending the money for a receiver? Wirecutter says this is the best stereo receiver.

u/ImJustHereToBitch · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I have a Cambridge audio topaz sr10v2. It was a refurbished unit they were selling on ebay for like 135 shipped. Not sure they have anything left. More than enough power for the bedroom.

Their sensitivity is at 86db, so I’d say anything that gives them at least 30 watts at 8 ohm will probably keep you pretty happy. Maybe a smsl sa100 or a micca origain, loxjie A10 could possibly do the trick. sometimes they have used ones from amazon warehouse that are returns or a damaged box that they sell even cheaper. I’d imagine one of those would hold you over if you’re tight on space. There’s a Sony stereo amp for 100 dollars right now that’s claiming 100w@ 8 ohm that seems to be a decent deal if you want to turn it up some, plus you get a remote and Bluetooth.


Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DJY3Db9N6AK7Q

u/MicrosoftTay · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm considering getting a turntable and sound setup and was considering either of these two amplifiers:

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Sony STRDH190

Yamaha R-S202BL

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They both seem to be fine units, both have the features I want and are priced right. Any particular suggestions regarding these two units or units in the same price point I should be considering? I want to stay away from those mini-amps from no-name brands. I've had good luck with both Yamaha and Sony equipment in the past so that's why I've swayed towards them. I'll be pairing it most likely with an AT-LP60X and some set of speakers I've yet to pick (hoping I'll be able to get some sweet black Friday sales). Thoughts? I'm (obviously) a beginner and want to get into the hobby without breaking the bank but I don't want go so cheap that I end up disappointed, though I'm no where near an audiophile.

u/johnhoneycutt_ · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hey Everyone...I got this receiver about 3 weeks ago: Onkyo TX-8020 2 channel Stereo Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EE18O7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6dETDb8V93YJQ

Like a few Amazon reviewers mentioned, mine makes the clicking sound during playback...the same clicking sound it makes when it powers on or off, but it’s random and not related to powering up or down. It doesn’t interfere with the TT or speakers, but you can hear it if you’re sitting nearby.

I’m debating exchanging it for this receiver while I still can: Sony STRDH190 2-ch Stereo Receiver with Phono Inputs & Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WFDR8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_thETDbY4GGQ9G

Anyone have any experience with either of these receivers? Thoughts on exchanging the Onkyo for the Sony?

Other relevant info is that ~$150 is my budget and the rest of my setup includes a set of Sony bookshelf speakers and an AT-LP120XUSB.

Thanks for any good info!

u/artebus83 · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

One option is to get something like the Fiio BTR3 https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH and then get whatever headphones you like. :) If you go this route, you'll ideally want headphones with a short or easily replaceable cord.

u/Axelpanic · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

If you don't mind a single cable, I love the MEE M6B buds. Fantastic battery life (8+ hours), bluetooth 5.0, and sound great. IPX5. $30 USD

If you don't mind using a set of cables, You can use any 3.5mm headphone with the Fiio BTR3 bluetooth receiver. Built in AK Dac, Can be used as a USB Dac from any computer, 11 hours of playtime (can use while charging), and works with any normal impedance headphone (i can use with 300 ohm headphones, but they aren't that loud.). $70 USD.

There is a less expensive model uBTR that comes without the DAC/9 hours battery life. $30 USD.

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I haven't had too much experience in this price range, but these products I own myself and use them both for difference reasons. Good luck hunting!

u/Scrimgali · 1 pointr/gadgets

Maybe I didn’t spell it out easy enough for you or explain it well enough for you, or maybe you simply didn’t actually read what I wrote. So, let’s try this again.

There is NO quality loss with the es100 or any of the FiiO Bluetooth receivers. Quite the opposite. They have a built in AMP(this AMPLIFIES the sound and outputs more power to drive the headphones better), and on the es100 a DAC chip(Digital to Analog Converters that increases the sound quality). So it takes the Bluetooth signal and enhances it greatly. It sounds significantly and noticeably better and louder, than if you were to take the same set of headphones and plug them directly into the phone with the provided lightning to 3.5 headphone jack dongle. It also sounds way better than a set of Bluetooth headphones. Believe me, I have 4-5 different high-end Bluetooth sets, and have tried out all these different situations. Some of them sound ok, but don’t really get loud enough, and you lose a lot of detail in the music. There is no comparison to the es100 or Fiio Bluetooth receivers. They sound amazing! And you still have your phone wire free. The only thing that is wired is your headphones to the tiny Bluetooth receiver which you can just clip to your shirt or put in pocket.

Plugging directly into most phones sounds like shit. Phones don’t output enough power to really drive a decent set of headphones. So they also does not get loud enough for me personally.

If your someone that is content listening to music with the set of pods that come with the iPhone, then these devices are probably not for you. I myself have quite a few sets of headphones that require a cable, and I was pissed that I was basically being forced to use one of these dongles to keep plugging them directly into the phone, or use Bluetooth headphones. The dongles I kept losing/misplacing because they are so damn small and they are expensive to keep replacing, and I didn’t want to use Bluetooth headphones as the sound quality isn’t the best. Especially since Apple uses only the AAC codec and not better ones like aptx, aptx hd, or LDAC. So it forced me to look at different options and the es100 was the answer. I didn’t know how much I didn’t like plugging directly into the phone via dongle until I used this thing for a few weeks. Music that I have been listening to for years, all of the sudden sounded better, more alive. I was hearing micro details and sounds that you just usually couldn’t hear. It’s amazing!

Best $100 I ever spent. I know that that could be too much money for some folks, but it’s about the cost of a few of the Apple dongles! If $100 is too steep, the FiiO options uBTR is $28, the BTR1K is $50, and the BTR3 is $70. They can all be found here:

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549717742&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fiio+btr&dpPl=1&dpID=31GuLdGu5jL&ref=plSrch

Es100:

https://www.amazon.com/EarStudio-ES100-24bit-High-Resolution-Bluetooth-Unbalanced/dp/B078H4YD2L/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549717742&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fiio+btr&dpPl=1&dpID=31e1njGDDpL&ref=plSrch


Just so people know, I have no affiliation at all with either of these companies. Just products that have helped me get over the lack of a headphone jack on iPhones. And not having your phone connected to any wires is amazing. But you still get amazing audio quality which is important to me. Hope this helps some and clarified what I was trying to get across in my first post. Or not...

u/Blaziken98 · 1 pointr/Android

For many of you I can recommend a Fiio BTR3, it's a Bluetooth DAC (digital-to-analog-converter) that's super compact, allows you to use any of your old headphones with a Bluetooth enabled phone. Drives my studio dt990s just fine, no worries about power. Can use AptX HD as a Bluetooth Codec, and paired with the good chip inside sounds better than any phone with a headphone jack, aside from a few select LG phones.

I have a phone with a jack still, and honestly I prefer to use this since I could have it clipped on my shirt and pull my phone out of my pocket without wires. Really tilts me to see all you, "I won't buy a phone if it doesn't have a jack", haters. You're limiting yourself to phones with shittier software, camera, hardware, the whole 9 yards, and for what? You have to use a different audio setup that's better anyways? Then again, I prefer equipment that's limited by my phone's DAC in the first place, so I don't have the same view as many of you.

u/Wiggitamoo · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

I've been having the same debate as you for a while. I think the answer is to get both (if you can) because they're built for different things, but do them excellently.

What I did was buy the PC37X, because I'll mainly be using them for gaming, and since they provide a more open soundstage, more base and have an excellent mic, I think that they'll work better for me.

I'm going to try pairing them with a cheap DAC/amp, I'm going to be testing them this week with either the Fiio BTR3 connected through USB C (which I can also use wirelessly with my iPhone over Bluetooth and other headphones). So they're convenient but may be lacking a bit in power.

I'll also be testing it with Syba Sonic's UBS 24 bit 96 KHz DAC/Amp (For under $40 it's hard to argue with)

I also considered the Sennheiser GSX 1000 Gaming Audio Amplifier, but will only test it out if the other options don't perform well for me.

I'll let you know how it goes. What option did you end up going with u/HasHooves?

u/lewdcosplaylover · 1 pointr/oneplus

Fiio BTR3 also supports LDAC and is of very good quality, a bit cheaper than the ES100 at $70. https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH

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The model that clips onto the M50x is the BTA10 which is $40. https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTA10-Bluetooth-Amplifier-ATH-M50X/dp/B07L6DL863

u/zizi77 · 1 pointr/bose

I’ve used Fiio BTR3 and it works good and delivers great sound actually (much better than original sound). the battery life is 10 hours. the only trick is that mic on bose is not working and the mic on the dongle works instead.
I think you may also use other models from fiio too, the differ by battery life and quality.

edit: buttons in the bose are not working at all. you have to use buttons in the dongle instead or use volume your phone (if you play from the phone).

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-BTR3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable/dp/B07FVN14FH

u/kittysneeze88 · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

I also recommend the ES100. It is double your state budget though. The FiiO BTR3 is a bit cheaper and will be more than sufficient for the IEMs you mentioned.

u/Turtvaiz · 1 pointr/headphones
u/planetcall · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

I use fiio btr3. I can confirm it has very good audio quality and I play with ldac codec. I use it as connected dac with my laptop and as a Bluetooth receiver with phone. So it charges while working and wire free when on the move.

u/PacoAvelar · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hi,
I'm tryin to get a setup for a not so big room (4m x 4m) (13.1 ft x 13.1 ft),

I have the next options for a setup :


- MX3 topping amplifier (50wpc) (120 USD) or SMSL AD18 (80wpc) (180 USD): https://www.amazon.com/Topping-MX3-Bluetooth-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=ADSL+ad18&qid=1563892863&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0



- KEF Q350 (600 USD) or Klipsch RP-600M (700 USD) (local supplier)


My budget is something around 1k USD, I own a FIO X5 II and a soundblaster E5 that I can use as a DAC
Wich option would you recommend me ? Should I invest the extra money into a better amp ? get a new DAC or get a different pair of speakers ?


My plan is to invest into the setup another 1k USD the next year, this is just the begining of something great.


Thanks a lot

u/wozmatic · 1 pointr/audiophile

What's a good sub and amp that would go well with the Micca MB42X?

I was thinking this...


Sub:

u/PaenitetEh · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Okay I was looking at the topping mx3 is that a good amp/dac combo?

u/smackdaddies · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile
u/artatgray · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Here's a great mini integrated amplifier that will be more than sufficient for your needs:


https://www.amazon.com/MX3-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphome-Amplifier/dp/B075SYC4Z5

P. S. I'm using something quite similar, albeit from another manufacturer, for my own computer based setup and am quite satisfied with it... 🖥 🎛️ 🔊 🎶 😎