Best lab consumables according to redditors

Here's the test I bought. It comes with two testing sticks.

You can also buy desiccant in bulk and that’s literally its entire purpose. To absorb moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qd0tDb54HBNDZ

I collect cast iron. Most of the time if the pan has been used for lead casting the patina/seasoning will be completely destroyed and that's a good indicator. However, If I'm extra suspicious and paranoid, which I am most of the time, I'll use a 3M lead test kit to test multiple pans at once, finishing by checking the kit against the control they include. That'll let you sleep at night.

Will do! Thanks for bringing this to my attention!

Edit: Just ordered a Lead Tester kit from Amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519776303&sr=8-4&keywords=lead+test+kit

Will keep everyone updated!

In terms of water absorption from the air, most cat litter is surprisingly ineffective. I use these indicating reusable silica beads from amazon to keep my 3d printer filament dry. Works wonderfully and when it changes color you just pop it in the oven for a few hours and they're ready to go again.

I LOVE the L-Ascorbic acid powder. Once you learn how to use it, it's a versatile, stable product that will last a long time. I'm currently mixing it with Hada Labo Premium. Here is how I measure for precision:

The scoop it comes with is far too large, so I bought these tiny measuring spoons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009X1P9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The smallest spoon is called "Drop" and it is equivalent to 1/64th of a teaspoon. I measure one level spoon of this and tap it into the palm of my hand. Next, I mix 4 drops of Hada Labo into the palm of my hand (**handy trick--one drop carefully dispersed from the bottle is equivalent to the "drop" measuring spoon). Use the spoon to mix it all up. The powder dissolves completely so there is no grittiness, leaving a perfect 20% strength, 3.0 PH Vitamin C serum in your hand. I test with these strips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DTH14XZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works out to be enough for my face, neck, décolletage, and the backs of my hands. Voila!

It's not fungus gnats.

You have multiple deficiencies going on at once which means the first thing you need to do is check your pH run off, not the pH of the water/fertilizer solution added to the soil. Make sure it is around a pH of 6.5 or so. Some fertilizers can acidify the soil forcing the pH down. You also have some slight tip burn which means adding more fertilizers would likely be detrimental.

5.5-8.0 pH strips are an easy way to read pH run off as they require no calibration, no special storage techniques, only need a drop of solution to work with and are accurate enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-pHydrion-dispenser-5-5-8-0/dp/B0001SR4NM

You must have the pH in the proper range to really do a proper deficiency evaluation.

But it looks like a nitrogen deficiency (lower yellowing leaves) and a potassium deficiency (spotted necrosis caused by proteins unable to form/repair themselves). Proteins degradation is just a part of plant life and allows plants to re-utilize amino acids but potassium is vital to protein synthesis. edit- this is caused by "nutrient lockout" from an improper pH

Calcium deficiencies tend to have leaf edge burn due to an osmosis imbalance that destroys cell walls. In this case the higher salt concentration in the center of the leaf is pulling nutes from the leaf edge destroying cell walls. This is why some crops like lettuce are often calcium boosted to protect cell walls since leaf edge burn in a leafy crop like lettuce greatly devalues the price of lettuce. In lettuce and other leafy crops this can be caused by to much light in a day. You don't appear to have this issue.

There are nute deficiency charts out there which are giving suspect information which is why you may have come to the calcium conclusion.

So get the pH in control before adding more fertilizers or you can make the problem worse by further driving down the pH.

Potassium hydroxide ("pH up") is a fast way to raise the soil's pH (don't use sodium hydroxide!) and most any of the (bi)carbonates can act as a pH soil buffer since the carbonates will stay in the soil longer (don't use sodium bicarbonate or baking soda). Sodium can interfere with potassium uptake.

PTC taste test strips. One like this: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E

7.4

Might want to consider one of these if you are color blind. pH Meter

Collecting games and systems can be a very exciting and rewarding hobby. I would start by picking a collecting goal before embarking on this journey. Here are some items to consider.

• Do you only collect games that you want to play, or do you want to include other criteria?
  
• Do you want to collect from a single region or all regions -- such as only NA copies.
  
• Just the game disc, game and cover, CIB?
  
• Are you including Special Editions and cover variants?
  
• Where are you going to store your collection? (Don't overlook this item and it's impact on your partner and housemates.)
  
• Are you looking for promotional materials, posters, and other Wii-branded tchotchkes?
  
  Here are some links you may find helpful.
  
  
• Spare Game Cases. You may find it easier to by a dozen or so and keep them handy. You may find the perfect game, but the case is ruined, has a sticker on it that won't come off, or it's just the wrong case, but the rest is fine.
  
• The Cover Project. You may find that some games have missing covers. This side has a repository so you can print off Game Covers for many games and regions.
  
• List of Wii Games. The fine folks at Wikipedia have curated a list of Wii games from across regions. You can peruse this list to help your formulate your collecting criteria.
  
• Silica Gel Packets. I keep these stored with games packed away in boxes. Humidity is a silent killer of retro games -- Disc rot is real!
  
• Mini Dehumidifier. I keep these in my enclosed bookshelves.
  
  Good luck and have fun!
  

It's not a genome test, it's a PTC test. A quick google search gave me this Though that's a way larger quantity than you'd want. You might be able to get one from free from any highschool biology department I think they're pretty popular in labs.

Mine was under 5 and over 4 and it's a brand new bottle. This happened to me before, where new products, but old bottles of products were not testing right. I had bought new test strips. So I got a different brand of test strips and re-tested everything a week later and the results came out right. .My experience is that not all test strips are equal.

Husband is a chemE. said test strips are not definative because of light and heat and external influences. Never mind manufacturers. He recommends the brand PH Hydrion. Of course, he hasn't worked in a lab in decades. But he remembered everyone using them in the lab. He also said he never used test strips, he used PH meters.

The substance used for these test strips is indeed Phenylthiocarbamide (PTC), which is the substance mentioned in the article as being similar to the bitter compound in Brussels sprouts.

Bitter Test Strips:
http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341172595&sr=8-1&keywords=bitter+test+strips

I’d say tents and hard gear would be ok. Fold or hang them loosely. Make sure they are totally dry before storing. Sleeping bag and clothing should stay inside.

Get some of this for inside, and and if you seal the outdoor storage door, the outside as well.

5 Pounds of Industry Standard 3-5 mm Large Blue Beaded Indicating Silica Gel Desiccants and Dehumidifier, Air-Tight Can for Storage - RECHARGEABLE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a9bYAb0CZXS54

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-PTC-Paper-Strips-Vial/dp/B001D7FF5E

Buy this. If you put it in your mouth and it tastes bitter straight away your a "super taster"

Apartment or house? In a house, keep the games in the driest, most temperature-consistent part of it, probably your basement. Either way, invest in a small dehumidifier. Some people also swear by silica packets for mold prevention, stash a few in each of your game boxes.

Bell jar plus dessicant with color change indicator

Put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the rim of the bell to help keep it airtight. Hide the packet under some fabric or whatever else makes it look nice to you. Replace and recharge dessicant as needed.

I keep these in with my ammo, it may help.

So, for funsies I tested the Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid with these paper pH strips and got a pH of ~5. Paula's website lists a pH of 3.5-3.9. The strips were effective at testing my other products, so why is the pH of the BHA Liquid so far off? Is there something about the product that makes pH testing more complicated, or does this product not work with paper strips? Or did I get a bad batch?

E: Here are some pictures I took of the test strip.

Be sure to test with LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack. Colored pieces from China typically contain lead but sometimes you can find a piece without. I highly recommend only getting clear pieces from China whenever possible.

> store them in a sealed container with 0% humidity inside

You mean like a ziploc bag with all the air squeezed out? If the beads get saturated, you can cut the packets open and bake the beads at 250°F (120°C) until they go clear again.

You can also buy them in bulk on Amazon.

You could buy silica bead packets like these or collect them from whatever items you get them in otherwise and keep a couple in a ziploc bag with your WIPs to keep moisture out? I like the idea of dryer sheets too, they come out smelling great!

If you're in an apartment, you're not going to be able to make any permanent modifications, meaning that even with a safe in general they could walk out with it (though I don't know what size of safe you have). My first instinct was hardcase with padlock holes (say, pelican), add dessicants to deal with any trapped moisture (check and bake as necessary!). Then get some relatively thick steel security cable and run it through the padlocks and around something large and heavy (chunky part of bedframe, desk, etc) to make it harder to just walk off on you. Preferably do this in such a way that you can hide the case as a result.

Or, if you're worried about it, willing to spend the money, and are planning on using the shotgun solely for trap, get a storage locker in a self-store facility that allows firearms. Or check with your trap range to see if they rent lockers for storage.

I bought these. It's like a pH strip tape dispenser. I heard you shouldn't apply the strips directly to your vaginal wall or cervix- that may be harmful. So, I just swabbed my cervix and wiped on the strip. Since I already check my CM this way anyway, I figured I may as well use the sample. ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Before you do anything, I'd recommend purchasing and using a leaf test system. Lots of options out there like these swabs from Amazon.

LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mPT5xb89MTY71

If you do have lead on the chest, I'd recommend removing the paint all together instead of painting or sealing over it. Obviously using a mask when you sand the old stuff of and using a collection system for the dust rather than letting it fall over your workspace.

Cleaning up lead paint is a task, and if you are inexperienced in the process you may consider taking it to a proffesional to have it completed. It would be a very cool project to hold onto for future generations. Good luck.

Emailing or calling the company is an easy option, but it's pretty random chance you'll get the answer. Some companies like Garnier and Philosophy consider it proprietary information, and act shocked you asked. Other companies like Neutrogena and Stridex are thrilled to share, and others like Simple Skincare will give you a silly vague answer along the lines of "All products have a pH of 5-7.5"

You can buy pH test strips, or litmus paper, online. They are a couple dollars, and you get more than you'd probably ever use. The ones with multiple squares are more accurate but more expensive. 5.5 is a good number to aim for, though it doesn't have to be exact. You mostly want to avoid the crazy 8's and 9's that companies make to give that "squeaky clean" feeling. Keep in mind that any oil cleansing mix you might have will turn your paper a color if tested, but it is meaningless. Oil does not have a pH as it does not have hydrogen ions.

Of course, if you're using a popular or widely available cleanser most likely someone has found the pH already. You can usually find someone's test results in the search bar!

I've been using these ones from amazon, which have worked fairly well. I just got a pretty decent digital pH meter, though, as I've been wanting to get one for my beermaking, so we'll see if the convenience of the strips outweighs the accuracy of the digital meter once I get it.

As others have said - Sailor/Whaling art.

Without removing the paint --- and for the benefit of the person appraising

​

Do not clean - patina might be important to the value.

​

(A) find a place that is missing paint and get a picture of the wood grain - and type of wood

Tight grain - often means very old wood, or old things, loose (wide) grain means newer wood.

​

(B) Local hardware store might have a lead paint test - it is a simple chemical test, the type I've used turns RED if lead is present.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I

LEAD was commonly used for paint - it's not totally hazardous if you are careful with it. It is hazardous if you have a small child and the chew on this thing, or lick the dust off with their tongue - That said - lead was most commonly used for the color WHITE - ie: "White lead", in old nautical wood things you might find what is called "red lead" as a filler or bedding compound between pieces of wood.

FWIW, those strips are terrible for measuring exact pH levels. I wrote a whole post on why I won't use these strips to test cleanser pHs in a narrow range. Using the large range pH strips is like using a sledgehammer to make a small hole in your wall. Sure, it makes a hole in the general area you want, but it sure as hell isn't going to be exact. The post goes into some detail about how pH indicator dyes work. I actually recommend these strips instead, if you are interested in the pH of things between 3-5.5 pH. I've used those strips to test out the pH of Innisfree's Bija Anti-Trouble Cleanser, CosRX's Good Morning Gel Cleanser, and CosRX's BHA blackhead toner, and the results were much more accurate and easy to read than the 0-14 pH strip range.

TL;DR - the accuracy of your pH strips is the more likely culprit. Use pH strips with the appropriate range for the items you are measuring. Big range pH strips are good for telling you if you have an acid or base, not good at fine-tuned pH level indicators in the 0.5 pH range.

You're probably opening a can of worms with that question. I can tell you that in beer-making using bought spring water VS the well water where I lived made a significant improvement.

BUT!!!.... we're not making beer, we're going to distill it anyway, right? So, if you have no reason to think there's something in you tap water that is undesirable it may be okay to use it.

HOWEVER!!... What is critical is the pH of the water. You can buy some cheap pH test strips if you want. My water was way high, close to 9. Your yeast likes it around 5.2. I use this 5.2 pH stabilizer stuff, it seems to work and will last you a long, long time. You'll probably get more alchohol because the ideal pH lets it ferment more completely and quickly.

That said, you can probably skip all that and use your tap water and it will still turn out fine, you can probably buy spring water or distilled water and it will turn out fine. But keep in mind those store bought waters do nothing to maintain a consistent pH, and that's what your yeast really cares about.

All in all, buying water is probably cheap insurance, but since I've been using my tap water and getting good results I would only do it as an experiment. Maybe you would do the opposite, use bought water for awhile and then try the tap one time and see what difference you notice.

Yes, plus 5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Different people's taste buds sense bitterness differently. People who like IPAs are much less sensitive to bitterness and therefore it doesn't overwhelm the other flavors that come from the hops. You can even get these to test your bitter sensitivity: http://www.amazon.com/PTC-TASTE-PAPER-VIAL-STRIPS/dp/B001D7FF5E. Kind of a fun party trick.

Just order some test strips from Amazon. If it tastes really bitter, you're probably a supertaster.

I don't have that cleanser or I would test it for you. Just a HU, I bought these testing strips from Amazon, and now I test all the things!

I can't get an exact 3.6 for example, but for our purposes, it works.

The reaction that is happening is

Zn + 2 HNO3 -> Zn(NO3)2 + H2

Zinc + nitric acid produces zinc nitrate and hydrogen gas

So as your bath is being exhausted, the HNO3 is being used up. Eventually it'll stop because the HNO3 is all gone. What you could get is some pH paper. That will tell you how acidic the solution is. A fresh batch should have a pH around 0-1. As it reacts it'll get closer to a pH of 7. For your bath, it'll never get above 7 since that is a basic solution.

The reaction might start slowing down once it's above a pH of 5-6, but you'll have to do a little monitoring to see what's best.

They've been stored right. These are the ones I use: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-Dispenser-Color-Chart/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486171334&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+hydrion

Here's the thing though, I hope I'm wrong. I just noticed that the COSRX BHA wasn't doing anything for me, so purchased another bottle thinking I got unlucky. Used that for a couple weeks, nothing. Decided to test the pH of both and BOOM. Around 6. Then I came here in a panick haha.

If anybody has other BHA recommendations with a minimal ingredient list, preferably one that uses betaine salicylate. PLEASE indulge me.

I suffered yeast recurrent yeast infections for 2.5 years! This all started from taking antibiotics. I tried boric acid, 90 billion culture probiotics, maintenance fluconazole (1 time every week), several vaginal creams-you name it. I tested for HIV and diabetes-negative. The recurrent bv/yeast specialist at my obgyn office was baffled at my issues!

I am not sure what ended up working for me. I have been clear for a little less than a year now. I have a few theories: 1.) I stopped using the pill and went on an IUD 1.5 years ago. I believe this helped somewhat (lower hormone dose). 2.) I don't wear underwear at night, and sleep without shorts/pants. 3.) I just rinse with water in the shower and use only coconut oil to shave. 4.) I use an AWESOME organic water-based lube that is pH balanced (the company UK based by the name of YES). 5.) Before bed I rinse my vulva/vag off with warm water using a "perrineal bottle", which is basically a squirt bottle. 6.) When I get a uti, I buy d-mannose, and add it to my water. I have cured several utis using this. D-mannose is a special sugar that clings to e-coli in the urinary tract/bladder and flushes it out when you pee. I swear it works just as well as antibiotics. You have to make sure you take the right dosage. Some supplements just provide a dose enough to prevent but not cure utis. I was skeptical at first, but it is something I wish I knew about earlier. Check it out on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SK66UJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1448632306&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+mannose+uti
7.) I stopped taking maintenance doses of fluconazole and only used it when I had an active infection. Over the course of 2.5 years, I probably got more than 30-40 infections.

Edit: I also use this to test if I have bv or yeast: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005FYGXUC/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484881069&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

Normal vaginal ph is between 3.8-4.5. BV will cause your pH to be off, but yeast will not.

Buy these, "recharge" them when you get them(bake in the oven with the door open at low temp for an hour or two), and then simply change them out and recharge them regularly. They can be reused for years and that pack is big enough to take care of a huge number of coins.

As others have said, starbucks coffee usually gives away old stuff for free (bring a rubermaid tote or your car will likely get some unwanted coffee juice leaked through). The vinegar thing depends on the water you use. If your water comes from an aquifer, its going to have some (maybe lots) of calcium in it that causes it to be basic. You want it to be acidic, hence the vinegar. The problem is that vinegar (acetic acid) is a weak acid and not very concentrated. If you don't use enough acid to neutralize the base in the water, you're still going to be screwed. The easy thing to do is to buy some litmus paper on amazon (try here). My water is so hard I had to get concentrated hydrochloric acid (roughly 12 M, and they sell it at lowes surprisingly!) It would take about 8 mL of conc HCl to 4 gallons of hard water in order to drive down the pH.

Don't use softened water (too much salt!). What I ended up doing is collecting rain water in a rain barrel. Water your plants daily (they like well drained moist soil).

A big thing to keep an eye out for... Look at the color of your leaves. If you're doing the pH thing right, your leaves will be a nice green color but if the soil/water is too basic (too high on the pH scale), they'll start to turn red. When this starts to happen you need to correct your problem quickly or you're screwed for the season. Once the leaves turn red, they don't normally turn back, however, new growth will grow green. If the plants aren't happy, they won't make fruit.

If you have other questions, hit me up. I'm doing this for my fourth year and I'm finally getting most of the kinks worked out of my system. Lots of failures but I'm expecting much better results this year! Best of luck!!

Even in this thread there seems to be some disagreement over it! From what I'm understanding in the other comments, carbonation itself causes a drop in ph, which will damage enamel (see: pH levels source and 'danger zone' links from the dentist student), so yes, carbonated water, on its own, will damage enamel through changing acidity of your mouth (another peer-reviewed source that I found through browsing, since I prefer to give academic sources where possible lol; on the other hand, some brands of seltzer water apparently actively try to balance the pH of their drinks to correct for the acidification produced by carbonation, so that they are no longer damaging. Ultimate recommendation is probably to pick up some litmus strips for cheap on Amazon, check the pH of your drink yourself, and if it's acidic, mitigate any enamel damage by drinking with a straw and rinsing your mouth after drinking the beverage.

Buy one of these

Bluelab if you have the money for sure, but for a cheaper option I'd definitely recommend a Jellas Ph pen. I used it for ages before I upgraded. Just remember to calibrate once a week or so.

https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC

I bought the two below (the first results for pH meter and PPM meter respectively). They are well reviewed and have worked great for me.

https://smile.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/HM-Digital-Measurement-Resolution-Accuracy/dp/B0002T6L5M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491933118&sr=8-3&keywords=ppm+meter

If you need EC instead of PPM I can't help you, but you can convert between the two I believe.

Id definitely get a PH pen, those drops are not accurate enough for growing marijuana IMO.
I use this, haven't had any problems with it
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496106446&sr=8-3&keywords=PH+pen

I have yet to have issues with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC/

Works well, accurate (compared with other meters and stays right on)

These have been just fine for me, and it is more economical. I bought 2 of them, one as a back up. They both hold their calibration rather well, and I won't be quite as pissed if I break one as if I had spent $80 on it.

"Dry & Dry" (1 Gallon) Premium Blue Indicating(Blue to Pink) Silica Gel Desiccant Beads(Industry Standard 2-4 mm) - Rechargeable(7.5 LBS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013L2Z2MY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HHYXDbJ2P4TT3

Don't use rice, it will leave a gross residue that will get into all the books and crannies.

Use silica gel, like the packets that come in clothes and shoe boxes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fzVTDb5HMDS35

I have used dessicant to rescue many a phone for family and friends, though not with total success because obviously sometimes there is permanent damage. I put the device in a big ziplock bag with the dessicant and let it sit for at least 2 or 3 days, the longer the better.

For example https://[amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ](https://amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ)

Clean in acetone and thin lube (just a pin drop or two) is what I use, but the issue is the rusting and this wont help with that. Once the steel rusts no amount of cleaning is going to help - in high humidity you will need a really high quality stainless steel which will only delay not stop the rusting. You could try storing your throws in an airtight box with a bag of dessicant :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781BN1BZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or go with a full ceramic bearing :
https://yoyobestbuy.com/yoyo-store/yoyo-accessories/buddha-bearing-full-ceramic-dimple/
No rust issues but a different care regime.

Edit : and a bearing that costs nearly as much as the yoyo :)

I'd go to an aquarium store, but I bet amazon has what you need. From a quick search:
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-pHydrion-dispenser-5-5-8-0/dp/B0001SR4NM/ref=sr_1_17?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1549996021&sr=1-17&keywords=pH+strips

https://www.amazon.com/CellarScience-AD640LB-Potassium-Carbonate-lb/dp/B074D9BXRT/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549996084&sr=8-3&keywords=potassium+carbonate

You can use PTC test strips to see if you're a supertaster.

Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001D7FF5E

I won't be able to tell you for sure for about 2 months. But if you store your tools in a tool box. And then put a dehumidifier in the box and as other people say put some oil/wax on the tool it should stay rust free.

There are reusable dehumidifies that you reset by baking them in an oven. As seen here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qzEhzbX8Q0SP8


I use jojoba oil, which is really a liquid wax. But 3in1 machine oil is a tried and true rust prevention.

This guy tests and documents in a fairly rigorous way the "best" rust prevention.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Best of luck.

Plastic isn't going to hurt your toy, however if you don't let it dry off entirely before you put it inside the bag your probably going to run into some trouble.

I go a little overboard, but I have a lot of toys.

I store all my stuff in this guy THE TOY BOX

I wrap each of the toys in this THE WRAPS

I put a bunch of these in the toybox to snatch up any extra moisture and to keep my toys from getting really nasty and moldy/mildew. [The no mold safeguard](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO
/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962870&sr=1&keywords=silica+gel)

And lastly I clean my toys using this The Cleaner

I have over a grand in toys in this thing though, looks like a toolbox so nobody really thinks...."there's probably dildos in that thing" and it's really heavy duty I mean this thing can take a beating like crazy so during travel and such I don't have to worry about rough handling of it. Also it can be locked with a padlock to keep nosey people out. The only downside is that it's watertight but the silica gel will dry up any moisture that gets in.

I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.

Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.

I use Hydrion test strips (the 5.5 to 8.0 range) and have for a long time now with great success.

Read through the article, you will get a lot of information. Feel free to google words you don't know. In short, in milk, the main spoilage is driven by gram-negative bacteria. They are able to grow a little better than other bacteria in cold temperatures and over time their concentration is high enough where they start changing the chemical make-up of the milk. Mainly, it seems that they release enzymes that break up the fats in milk (not entirely sure about non-fat milk) to other fats whose taste we don't like.

Measuring different kinds of fats, or bacterial concentrations is possible, but to do so cheaply with a simple readout on a carton or bottle is very hard. You will have to go for something that can have an easy read-out but is still indicative of the bacterial concentration. As you guessed, a good metric may be pH. It turns out, many bacteria like to make lactic acid as they grow, especially without too much oxygen, which lowers the pH of the milk.

Again, there are studies already available on the change of pH of spoiling milk, but this is where the fun part comes in. You can do these test yourself very easily. All you have to do is get a couple of cartons of milk (preferably different makes, and different fat% milk). Then measure their pH over time. Probably once per day for the 2 or so weeks it takes the milk to spoil. Each time you measure the pH, write it down and then taste the milk to see if it has spoiled. Try to find a pH value below which you would say the milk is spoiled.

Don't worry, having a little spoiled milk will not hurt you. Especially if you spit it out. Then make sure to take a couple more readings a few days after you know the milk is spoiled (don't taste that stuff) and make sure that the trend of lowering pH is still there.

As for how to measure pH. You can use pH strips. It's important to find ones that have a good change in color in the range you need (6.4-6.8 for fresh milk and lower for spoiled). This might be a good option.

Ideally, then you would need to find a dispenser design that would allow for a pH strip to be subjected to the milk without leaking the dye back into the container. Have fun coming up with some ideas!

Good luck and make sure you talk to your science teacher or any scientists in your community to help you plan experiments. This will help you learn how good experiments are done and in turn make your project all that much better.

http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426730546&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrion

good?

Get something like this, just a roll of ph paper. It only takes a tiny bit and it'll last forever. For these purposes, its as accurate as you need and you don't need to maintain it like a ph meter.

Tap water or distilled. It will depend on where you start with the water among other things.

To be sure this.

Well pH is measuring acidity/basicity from 1-14 so I try to adjust it to 5.5 - 6.5 using this.

Rip a tiny piece of the pH paper and just barely dip a clean glass rod in the solution you're testing, then touch the glass rod to the paper then determine if you need to add a tiny amount of vinegar or baking soda

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064OFP88/

These fit on all the carboy's that I've bought.

You say that it has an acidic taste, but is it really acidic? Time to bust out your old chemistry set! You can get a set of litmus strips on Amazon for only 4 bucks which will tell you if it is actually acidic, or if you are just tasting some weird flavor aspects (like too much citrus).

If it is truly acidic you have a few options. You can blend it with a more alkaline mead, or you can add some calcium carbonate mix it up until fully dissolved (I siphon around 1/2 gallon of mead from a 6.5 gallon carboy, mix 1 tablespoon into that, and re-add that to the rest, then stir) and let it settle for a day, and test the PH again, rinse and repeat until you're at where you want to be, if it's really acidic, you can do 2 tablespoons.

I ordered it yesterday, but I won't have a way to test the pH...

Actually, I'll buy some strips to test this product is someone can point me in the direction of some that don't suck. I can't seem to find the ones that OP used though. Would these work?

I got some pH test strips from Amazon here they are, I tested some things last night and here are my results:

Tap water - 7-8 pH

GoW 5% mandelic acid serum - 3 pH

Stridex Red Box - 5 pH

I also tried to pH test my CeraVe cleanser, but I don't know how that works since it's a gel.

After doing a search on here, it looks like my pH readings are way off. Any ideas?

I bought mine off Amazon!

Raves:

Andalou Naturals Acai + White Tea Oil Free Moisturizer: It's lightweight, non-greasy, doesn't contain fatty alcohols (pore-clogging for some) and has great ingredients (antioxidants, anti-irritants & skin-repairing agents). I really like it.

New Purchases:

Devita Natural Skin Care Acne Solution Pads: I found these on iHerb. I was excited about the ingredients. Unfortunately, the pH is 5 according to my pH strips so it's NOT an effective BHA. I'll use these on my body and I will not repurchase.

GoW Salicylic Acid 2% Pads: I use these nightly to exfoliate. These are gentle (slight, transient tingle) and super moisturizing. The pH is 4 according to my pH strips so it's an effective BHA. I like them so far.

GoW Majik Anti-Popup Blemish Gel: I bought this because I'm curious about Azeloyl Glycine (a derivative of Azelaic Acid) and Niacinamide. I'm not sure about the coconut cream for my oily, acne-prone skin. I'll use it as a nightly spot treatment to deter blemishes.

GoW Enriched Oat Facial Serum: I bought this because my skin responds well to DIY oat flour masks when irritated. I'll use this to an an anti-inflammatory serum after MUAC chemical peels.

MUAC 25% Mandelic Acid Peel: I can't wait to try this to fade PIH from acne. It should be gentle and effective on my deep brown skin (Fitzpatrick V). I think it'll help acne as well. I'll use it weekly for the first two peels then use it every four days.

JJ Labs Skin Solutions Vitamin C Serum 25% with Hyaluronic Acid: I bought this from Etsy after seeing it on an Into the Gloss 'Top Shelf' post. It has a light gel-like texture, is non-greasy and moisturizing. The pH is 3 according to my pH strips so it's an effective vitamin C product. I'll use this this nightly.

I will make up a batch of StarSan and keep it for several weeks. I bought some inexpensive pH test strips from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IBOG7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00). I dip one into the solution, and as long as the pH is 3 or lower I'm good to go. Haven't had a problem with sanitation.

Basement machine shop in New England here. I have yet to find an AMAZING corrosion resistant spray... LPS3 works well but leaves a film which isn't ideal if you're using things semi-often because you have to really wipe down all your precision surfaces and tapers. CRC SP-400 has been my go-to for a while. A can lasts a while and works for larger stuff. Just leave a wet coat on there.
For my small hand tools, especially micrometers, etc. I use Starrett tool and instrument oil. It's expensive but a small bottle goes a long way.
The biggest difference is putting things away. I keep all my precision stuff and hand tools in a toolbox with a few dessicants and there isn't a spot on any of it.

4 inch ar500 plate for 22, 9mm? 223? practice.
dessicant packs for my "safe"
headset to listen to 7 year olds tell me about how they fucked me mum

First part serious. Second part funny.

If the pH of the shampoo isn't advertised, you could simply test it yourself. Supposedly pH balanced shampoo (different from pH neutral) is supposed to be like 4.5? So you'd need a test kit that would be able to distinguish 3.5 from 4.0 from 4.5 etc.

Edit: If it was me and I wanted to find out the exact pH of my shampoo, this is what I'd buy.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Lab-3110M18EA-Dispenser/dp/B00LY1KIWY/

Might be bacterial vaginosis, it can be subtle for some women. This might help you narrow it down in the meantime.

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)

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Product 1: pH Test Strips for Urine and Saliva with 4 testing panels for increased accuracy: pH Dip Sticks (100 Count, Full pH Range from 0 to 14) (B00M4X5J20)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur||$9.99|Not in Stock|
|Hi||$19.88|
|Lo||$2.26|
|Avg||$9.22|

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^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

I had the single paper strips which are very basic and not good if you want more precision. I moved on to these 4-variations which have provided me with much more accuracy.

Any food grade alkali is fair game to substitute for any other if you can get the needed pH. Usually the recommended choice in a recipe is determined by either locally accessible ingredients or ease of measurement at the scale needed (I am talking through my hat there, but have reasons to believe I am correct, which I will explain).

As an additional hobby, I do a lot of tie dyeing. The reactive dyes are the most color fast for natural fibers , but require a specific pH (11) in which to work. For just over $5 you get 100 pH test strips. For a Catholic homeschool meeting 20-ish years ago, I wanted to make pretzels with the kids as a demonstration of a traditional Lenten food. I was a bit scared about kids and lye, so I started looking at the pH needed to get pretzel browning, because I wanted them to participate at every step of the making. I checked the ph of baking soda solutions and lye solutions with my hand dandy on hand litmus test strips and was not liking it, so researched and stumbled across a way of reducing baking soda by baking that gets you a lot closer to the ideal pH of 13 that lye yields.

An insight was born. I do not use my pH strips as often as my thermapen, but because I have them, I have learned to measure pH for good results whenever browning is an issue. There are a lot more factors that influence the result, but the pH value is the most important in making substitutions. The solution temperature and length of the dunk are the next most important - and there are lots of papers out there explaining the science, but I am still at a level that process feel and product happiness determine temp and time.

The ph of tap water depends on where you live.. but I know my whole state more or less has safe water in the taps. You can a get pack of like 100 test strips from amazon for like $5. Just make sure the PH is 7 or above.

you need to get a ph meter: https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=lp_393271011_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1511300438&sr=1-3 will suffice.

I would recommend a water/nutrient pH of 6.4 for promix as it is a peat based media that is acidic. Meaning your pH should be about 6.2, but if you add 6.2 and hits the acidic peat, it will not be that anymore. Some people argue lower pH for soiless, but let me assure you that at 6.4 in results in a 5.6ish out. I personally think you are safe with a pH 5.4-6.2 out. What I mean by out is run-off, you need to feed enough liquid so that ~20% just drains through. Placing the pot in a pail during feeding/watering helps. This will drain extra salts.

Also, you should add perlite (1/3 volume) with promix as it can cause drainage problems and water retention if you don't. Think about that before you transplant. You may need to also add dolomite lime in the future. Read up on that please, just thinking ahead for you, and letting you avoid mistakes I had made. It doesn't take a lot, but helps to stabilize your pH and provides cal/mag.

>Not sure what EC means

It means Electroconductivity and refers to the salinity of your water.
Do you know how hard your water is? If its too hard, you need to dilute it with RO water. Some people just use RO water only, but supplement it with CalMag solution. If you don't know what's in your tap water, call the water department and ask them. They most probably posted your water analysis online.

Yur just lucky I'm feeling nice ;)

EDIT: And ffs quit giving them miracle grow!

I got one from Jellas and I'm very happy with it, which I'll link at the end of this reply. It's been quite accurate for my purposes. I occasionally put it in distilled water to make sure it's not falling out of calibration and so far it hasn't drifted, but if it does it has a screw to adjust it back. The batteries are easy to replace, and it's easy to slide it in past the pellicle and get a quick measurement. I'm actually on my second unit because I accidentally broke the bulb on the first one while drying it. Definitely let it air dry. I always rinse it right before and right after using it. It's a great way to make sure you're brewing a consistent product, since you will know exactly when your first and second fermentations are finished. Remember that pH is logarithmic so the rate of change will not be linear, and the difference in acidity between 4.0 and 3.0 is not 25%, it's 1,000%. I start the second fermentation at 3.4-3.6 and finish around 3.1-3.2.

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_hkOrr63kSbWzQ

Sorry for the slow response.

That is good your budget is flexible and you want to do it right from the start.

I think the tent is a good choice, and you have lots of vertical height which is great. Are you in a grow friendly state? The reason I ask is they might have some sales at local hydroponic and gardening stores that you might consider. Your plant will have at least a foot above it for clearance from the light and a foot below where you've got your pot. So your actual plant will probably just be around 4 feet tall.

I know a lot of people in america use fox farms soil and the fox farms nutrient line up. Seems to be successful. I am going a slightly more organic method using General Organics nutrients and pro mix with some compost as my soil. The fox farms soil has starting food in it while the pro mix is inert, which means full control of the food for the grower but less of a safety net for the plant if you mess it up.


There is a lot of options when it comes to food, each company has a ton of products. To get you going though I would just use the vegatative food and the flowering food. And some calmag. Everything else is just optional and you can always use next time.

Once you've got your medium and food sorted, you'll want to be able to check your ph levels.


Also grab some of the bottles of ph up and down so you can adjust it accordingly before you feed your ladies.

You'll need a tent to fit your space, I would browse amazon for deals and base your decision on their reviews!

As for what pots to use, I started using fabric pots and they are great. They allow for less over watering because the medium can breathe more easily. You'll want to start in 4 inch pots, then maybe to a gallon, then 3 gallons, perhaps all the way to 5 if you want. Kinda depends on how many plants you decide to keep? I grow small numbers and big plants.

After that you've just got to decide on lighting and ventilation. I don't know a lot about LEDs except that it cuts down on electricity and heat. Some people invest in american companies but they can be quite expensive. A popular method is just ordering cheap LED fixtures from china and not worrying too much if they break because they are so cheap.

/u/Legal_In_OR might stop by here to give some LED advice. He uses top of the line LEDS but I am wondering if he has insight on some of the cheaper options to get you going.




We also have lots of useful information on our website. http://www.herbgrow.co/


Feel free to ask more questions.

ph meter from amazon

I have this one and it works well! 16 bucks too so I recommend this if you are looking to purchase one!

Cheap ph meter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501379477&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter&psc=1
If you live in a legal state, just buy a used digital Mh/hps system preferably 1000w.

Use advanced nutrients
http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutrient-calculator/

I like how you asked for cheaper than $30 and people respond with $200 probes lmao.

I got these two off Amazon cheap, like $15 each.

I've tested them in r/o water and they seem to be accurate, the tds measures up with my water report from the city on my tap water and reads r/o at 0.

I haven't had any issues with my plants as far as ph or PPM.

Here are the ones I got.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110799&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ph+meter+for+water&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EWZBB3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483110821&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tds+water+testing+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=51JKkIc76NL&ref=plSrch

I'd start with treating it like a phone that's been dropped in water, with the same suggestions. Do some reading on how people deal with that.

A common one is to put he wet item in a sealed plastic bag with a bunch of uncooked rice. Of course, you'd need to prevent the rice from getting inside the cooker, like through the vents. Maybe you could wrap it in a few layers of cheese cloth, paper towels, something like that. Or at least lay something like paper towels on top of the rice, then put the cooker on top of the paper towels.

I have used desiccant packs with more success than with rice. This is like what I have, it's reusable (you dry it in the oven):
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrosorbent-OSG-40-Dehumidifier-Desiccant-Chloride/dp/B015OT106O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486305711&sr=8-2

I tried drying an item in rice, which helped, but it was still messed up. Using my desiccant container got the item working again properly. Plus it keeps the pellets contained so they don't mess up the device.

Of course, it's possible that permanent damage has already been done to the cooker. But drying it out is worth a shot. You could also see if Anova is willing to help.

So I've been storing my lenses in Pelican Cases, and I've been using these 40 Gram Desiccant Packs to help keep them dry.

I was just wondering if it's possible for the pelican cases to be too dry? I was reading somewhere that if the humidity is too low, that it can dry up lubricants and what not? Is that true?

Dessicant Silica Gel packets will absorb moisture inside that case. I think these ones can be baked a little while to evaporate the moisture out of them and reuse them.

Well, tyvek won't really help much - heck just painter's plastic as a vapor barrier from the outside and then some pink stuff (I use recycled denim, it also helps dampen sound) would work just fine. Other people use the rigid foam - check out some of /u/gilliganphantom's posts - he used spray foam.

Insulation can help a lot with condensation, but remember that airflow!

In the meantime, buy buckets of desiccant. https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=desicant&qid=1550686565&s=gateway&sr=8-8 Hopefully this won't get spam filtered.

I can't tell what's actually in the product, so maybe. You can get generic silica gel desiccant which will do the trick. You will have to recharge the beads every so often. Others on here will tell you that you should actively dehydrate your PVA using a food dehydrator, for example, or your oven if the temp goes low enough. Then you can store the PVA using silica gel to keep any moisture away. If you are good about keeping the silica gel dry then I think it will pull some moisture out of the PVA with enough time. I specifically use this and I 3D printed some containers to hold it in inside a gasket-lined plastic box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075DBPY6F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solved my problems.

I live in south Louisiana where humidity is like that friend who doesn't know when it's time to leave. My box stays at 10% humidity now. Also, /u/arudinne linked the same weather sealed boxes I use for filament when it's being stored. Use the leftover silica in the weatherbox. That container is running at 10-11 humidity also.


You can also make a weatherseal box a dry box and directly print from it, which is something I might consider after getting an mmu2 if I can't find a good off the shelf solution.

Color indicating silica. I dumped a 5 pound bucket into my dry box: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5NTCWW/

A lot of people are going to get all "definitely not you dumb shit" on this but you are pretty OK.

While I would caution against the abuse that is the dishwasher, if you pull off all your keys you can just spray/wipe/wash the whole keyboard clean gently. Dry it all you can by hand and then put it in container with one of these bad boys, I mean the whole pack of 50, and wait a good 5 days for it to dry out.

The radiator isn't a good idea, you don't want to steam out the moisture. If moisture gets into small areas then gets heated up it risks building up pressure and cracking things. Stick to just dry air.

Source: My K60, my Strafe RGB, my K55 at work and my friends K95.

Disclaimer: I am not Corsair. I don't speak for them. This is definitely outside of warranty. THIS should be the nuclear option, dishwasher is just... please don't ever again.

If it's personal use only I strongly recommend investing in a vacuum sealer (this is the one I got and it's amazing, it also works with other vacuum bags, I like the foodsaver ones) and desiccant packs (also the ones I got)

This will preserve the potency and freshness of your dried shrooms for a really, really friggin long time

Yep - that’ll do the trick! I added desiccant packets https://amzn.to/33ZJGEP and 3m anti-tarnish tabs https://amzn.to/2JmYndd

You can't replace LP lights with anything but OEM LP lights. The leveling motors would be missing and the harness would be completely different. Helix lights are made to use with the non LP GTIs.

Check out this thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14422

I keep these on hand, and tape some to the inside of my housing cap if I ever notice any condensation: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RR5362S5UEV8&keywords=silica+packets&qid=1562783428&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+to+displa%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4

edit: call AutoHaas and see what they have. They're a VW/Audi recycler and have a ton of parts for sale.
888-897-2781

https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3TV0LA88HKTL&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1559067138&s=gateway&sprefix=silica%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

Silica gel. Will help with moisture and condensation from temp change. I was on the road in Louisiana with a semi hollow and the thing would drip with moisture after being in airconditioning. It really helped. If you aren't going to take it out this will keep condensation from happening because the air inside the case will be drier and less moisture to condense onto guitar. If you don't want to buy that then pantyhose full of uncooked rice is a similar solution. Some saran wrap to seal the case after that wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Link:

Bollocks. Winter is actually better for leaving scopes out because there are fewer temperature swings.

If you have a reflector, I would recommend getting some desiccant packets off Amazon like these 50gram ones. and taping one behind your secondary and another near your primary. You can recharge them in your microwave safetly so they last basically forever.

To fight frost, you can tape a hand warmer behind your secondary mirror. Works in a pinch. You can also invest in a portable hair dryer to apply some light heat to your secondary if it frosts over. It could save your night.

pH Test Strips for Kombucha

I've heard that certain types of water don't quench thirst like other water. I can't remember what the deal was, it's been a few years, but it had something to do with the type of water you're drinking. Some water doesn't really satiate the thirst and stick around and go where the hydration needs to be in the body like other water. I can't remember the name, but there was some device that does something to the water to make it better for you and more hydrating.

Found this news story from ABC at the link below, and it has to do with the alkalinity of the water you are drinking. Distilled water, for instance, is very bad for you, because all the good stuff has been taken out of it. It can actually cause bone loss, which it did to me for many years before I got a clue that I shouldn't be drinking it. You can also get alkaline test strip paper and use your saliva to tell how alkaline your system/body is. Foods like sugar can cause your body to become more acidic and some fruits and things like pineapple can cause the body to become more alkaline. Having an acidic system can cause your body to be more likely to lean toward health issues, while having an alkaline body is better for your health.

There are at home machines that can make alkaline water for you, and there is also alkaline water you can buy. You can also add drops to your water to make it more alkaline. It's good to use the test strips to test the bottled water you are drinking, because there are many bottled waters on the market, even name brand bottled waters that are actually less alkaline than is recommended for human consumption. Possibly you are drinking one of these waters and it is leaving you dry.

https://abcnews.go.com/Health/alkaline-water-claims-offer-greater-hydration-health-benefits/story?id=33268980

Here is the test paper like I have at home. I've had it for a very long time and it still works fine. You can use it to test the saliva or urine that comes from your body to see where your system stands. Just tear off a small strip, test it, and compare it to the colors on the cartridge to see where your pH level is at, and respond accordingly with whatever changes are needed to make your body more alkaline and more healthy.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-pHydrion-dispenser-5-5-8-0/dp/B0001SR4NM

And here is an article on the importance of having an alkaline system...

https://www.livestrong.com/article/444199-what-are-the-benefits-of-alkaline-in-the-body/

I've tried using cheap pH meters in the past (fish tanks) and they always fail, give me bad readings and cause a panic. If you don't want to invest in a good one, I would suggest strips. Something like http://www.amazon.com/Essential-pHydrion-Saliva-dispenser-5-5-8-0/dp/B0001SR4NM/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1451476877&sr=8-14&keywords=ph+strips

I'm working on my 4 x 4 build and the research I've done says 4 plants in 5 gallon smart pots is just right.

OP, I wonder if you've ever been tested for being a supertaster. A small percentage of humans are born with denser quantities of tastebuds on their tongue, and as a result are a lot more sensitive to taste (especially bitter tastes) than the rest of us. You can test yourself by buying these strips. They only cost $6. And if you put them on your tongue and they immediately taste bitter and disgusting - congrats, you're a super taster!

Super tasters are more likely to be extremely picky eaters and seek out bland tasting foods. They usually are extremely anti-vegetables and anti-spicy foods. They also have aversions to things like red wine and scotch because they taste highly astringent to them. Versus me, who is actually a 'non-taster' (someone with very few taste buds that cannot taste the bitter chemical on those strips) who drinks my weight in scotch and seeks out the spiciest stuff imaginable just to get a taste of something. :)

Anyhow, onto Japanese food recommendations. I think the other posters have done a good job recommending tempura and teppenyaki.

I would also recommend shabu shabu to you. It's just nice beef cooked in a broth. Yakitori is another great thing to try: just meat on skewers. And Yakiniku is beef that you cook on your own barbecue. You can usually get wagyu and it's a fun thing to try.

One last one to consider that might be a stretch for you is okonomiyaki. It's essentially a Japanese pancake with an egg-base that may have some meat in it. You can probably request it without the sauce. The only trouble is that they often have cabbage in them, so you'd have to decide whether you were up to that or not. :)

Other than that, you'll have access everywhere to Starbucks, KFC, and convenience stores - so you're not going to starve. Go to some of the fancy department stores and wander their basements. Many of them have vast food markets in the basements with every type of food and confection imaginable. You can try lots of small things and just toss them if you don't like them. :)

Do you like the taste of:

• coffee without a lot of sugar and milk/cream?
  
• grapefruit?
  
• olives?
  
• ale beer
  
• broccoli?
  
• stout beer?
  
  ...Because you might be a supertaster.
  
  
  There are test strips (called PTC paper) that can be placed on your tongue to determine whether you're a supertaster. To some people, the strips have no taste no matter how long they leave them on their tongues. Those people have fewer taste buds and are not supertasters. To other people, the strips are bitter or extremely bitter and repulsive. Those people are near supertasters and supertasters.
  
  
  It's also possible to determine if one is a supertaster by putting blue food-coloring on your tongue and looking closely to count the taste buds per a given area.
  
  Here are some websites that explain (PDF) how to do that.
  
  
  And here is a chart from a Wall Street Journal article called "People Who Taste Too Much" that shows how supertasters taste some foods differently than others. The full article is behind a paywall.
  
  Certain ethnicities are more likely to be supertasters, such as Asian ones. Being a supertaster is genetic, so it's likely that one of your parents or grandparents is a supertaster if you are.
  
  Of the foods I listed above, all would taste bitter to a supertaster, but a stout beer would taste better than an ale beer because ale beers are more bitter.
  
  Being a supertaster is often confused with just being a picky eater (with no reason). Being a supertaster does not rule out a psychological component to food preference, it can show a very clear reason for many of your food choices.

I found these on amazon. It's not the kit we used but the same strips.

Even if I were agreeable with the concept, I'd just leave my razor on a $5 silica gel canister...

You might also want to get a dessicant (like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ ) so excess humidity doesn't build up inside of it, especially if you also decide to store paper documents.

Get some dessicant. Put the entire turntable inside a large bag with the dessicant, and then double bag it. Leave it for a couple of days. This should pull out any remaining moisure, although it may not fix your left channel problem. This would be a good first step though.

My Dad used this method to fix my wet Pac Man watch in the early 80s. I thought he was a wizard.

ETA: The sooner you can do this, the better. If you have a store near you that sells shooting supplies, they should sell this and you can pick it up right away.

These may also come in handy:

http://amzn.com/B0025OO8DO

> https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Laboratories-Testing-Range-Environment/dp/B002ZYVU4O

Do you think something this accurate for use on a plant that is not having issues? I have the same brand of strips that covers the entire spectrum, so obviously less accurate. I usually get the PH around 6, airing on the side of 6.5 if possible. Should I be going for something more accurate?

If your soil is peat or wood based and you have no liming in there then pH or Ca/Mg deficiency may be an issue. I use these pH test strips to get an idea of my soil pH.

These are the strips SAG recommended that I use.

I never did like the drops and the vial, but I LOVE the pH strips.

I bought a few gallons of purified water early on, but now I just fill them with just tap water or tap water with the FF Trio Nutrients .

I use the strips to test the water each time, and then use the pH Up or pH Down when needed.

I use something similar to http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O . I use ones on a little wider PH scale and they work great.

edit: the nice thing is you only need a tiny strip making the test strip roll last a LONG time.

Looks like pH issue. pH testing solutions aren't too accurate for the range we need. I recommend getting these which is what I use and they work very well. Meters are okay too, but they're delicate and a lot of people end up breaking them when they try to clean it. If you get a meter, I'd still get those strips as a back-up.

That said, 6 is right around the minimum. 6.2 - 6.5 is where I like to be.

Easiest way is just to get some pH paper, just dip it in and match color on the package.

https://smile.amazon.com/Hydrion-paper-93-Dispenser-Color/dp/B005FYGXUC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pH+paper&qid=1568937558&sr=8-3

I switched out the regular growler tops for these

38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps (fits most 1/2 & 1 gallon jugs) [Bag of 12] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dnBDyb93PHGC3

Work awesome and fit any 64 oz growler I've tried them on.

I am as well, Old Gt Bottles with a cap like this(cheaper at your local homebrew store) Have been working. however I use(and recommend because one growler takes up less space then 3 or so gt bottles) a Big growler with this cap for 2F and then strain into gt bottles that go straight to the fridge.

Like these?
https://www.amazon.com/38mm-Poly-Seal-Screw-gallon/dp/B0064OFP88/ref=asc_df_B0064OFP88/

Mason jars are made to withstand vacuum, not internal pressure. so you're more likely to have an explosion with those than a bottle made to have internal pressure. The Grolsh style beer bottles work great. I also like using 1/2 gallon growlers (get the ploy caps).

Yeast dies at what? 140° - 145°F? I can make a sous vide water bath with a circulator at about 150°F+ to pasteurize in for about an hour. The type of caps I have for my 1 Gallon Carboys are 38mm Poly Seal Screw Caps. No idea if they would be strong enough for the pressure though.

These are the ones I originally found but i live in Canada and didnt want to deal with cross border shipping on a little mom an pop shop, so I found basically the same thing on amazon

You can get replacement tops for the GT bottles. They are not too expensive at Amazon.

On the topic of pH, I've had a few burning questions for a while. Wasn't sure to make a new post on this or stick it here.

1. If I buy this $3 pack of 160 pH strips, is it reliable or should I aim for a more expensive one, like a $12 version? And I recall, back in grade school when we were testing for pH level, we used a few pH strips and took the average of them?
   
   
2. How to test the pH of products of different consistency? A watery toner seems straigtforward, but others less so.
   
   

• Foaming cleanser - may be a repeat of ChanYong's question up there.
  
• Toner
  
• Emulsion/Milk
  
• Cream/Gel

I don't grow outside but I don't think you need to add more nutes to your soil. Not if you are using a quality soil like Ocean Forest.

Honestly, it looks like splash burn to me.

http://www.thctalk.com/cannabis-forum/showthread.php?105935-Nute-burn

But I would check your run off water pH. With soil, you could probably get away with those little paper tester strips they use for pools. Super cheap and available at any pool supply or hardware shop.

https://www.amazon.com/Packs-Paper-Litmus-Strips-Tester/dp/B008IBOG7G

These PH Test strips would do the job just fine. Shave soap should have a PH between 7 and 10. Outside that range may sting you face.

Tomatoes should be ok for the water-bath, you can do a litmus test to make sure.

You can also reuse Star San. Get some litmus strips and test.

> It's an acidic cleaner. Once the pH rises above 3, it should be replaced. Color or cloudiness is not an appropriate indicator of potency. (per Five Star Chemicals - makers of StarSan)

Edit: cheap from Amazon here.

They're available on Amazon, and you can get two-day shipping. A dedicated paint store might be more likely to have test kits than a general hardware store.

Yeah and if you're worried about lead, there's cheap lead test kits on Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501697871&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+test

These sticks work well for a simple yes, no on lead :
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cMHQCb54ED1AQ

Not sure if there is an equivalent for cadmium though.

> Do you just randomly throw the packs in the case? Which layer of foam do you put them on? Do you cut a place for them or just leave them on top?

I stuck them in the bottom of the case under the foam.

>Any issues which foam disintegrating?

Nope, never heard of this happening.

>Any advice on the silica gel pack pelican sells? Would that be worth it overpriced?

Silica is silica. Get this

I honestly don’t think they check the pH standard. They do sell over the counter pH test kits in the pharmacy (or you can order pH test strips by the roll on amazon for wayyyy cheaper you’ll want this one Micro Essential Lab 3110M18EA 325 Hydrion Short Range pH Test Paper Dispenser, 3.0-5.5 pH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LY1KIWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vx47BbNRK6A0F). Normal vaginal pH is around 3.8-4.5 so if you’re outside that range (usually higher than 4.5) it’s pretty indicative that you have BV.

pH testing isn't too expensive as far as brewing equipment goes.

Strips -get the ones for the pH range that you are interested in, in this case the acidic range. The pH strips that range from 1 to 14 are a lot harder to read accurately.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Lab-3110M18EA-Dispenser/dp/B00LY1KIWY/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1480250246&sr=8-23&keywords=ph+test+strips


Alternatively you could get a meter (my recommendation if you can pick one up for less than $20). While not lab grade, even the cheap ones are good enough for our purposes.

https://www.amazon.com/Rozway-Digital-Balance-Powder-Accuracy/dp/B01GN9E1QA/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1480250302&sr=8-20&keywords=ph+test+strips

You're welcome! If you need a recommendation, these are the kind I have.

alot of cleansers are often pH 9-10! So 6 isnt that bad - if you want, you can purchase those 4-mark pH testing strips on amazon, they're pretty cheap! I bought this pack of 100 for like $10. That would last awhile and then you can always be sure to get the approximate pH with all your future cleansers :)

I bought these and happy with the results

http://www.amazon.com/Sticks-Strips-Count-Improved-Testing/dp/B00M4X5J20/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408242184&sr=8-1&keywords=ph+dip+sticks

Regarding pH testing...

I'd like to test a bunch of my stuff, but the Cleanser pH guide recommends a multicolored pH tester. The single color testers are much cheaper such as here.

Is it bad if I choose this one? If I choose it, should I not share my results on the list?

No problem.

You might look into getting a book of universal indicator strips like these to test products. You dip the paper into the product and compare the color to the color-pH legend. This gives you a ballpark pH that is good enough for this application. For ex it wont give you a pH of 5.5 but you will be able to tell it's between 5 and 6.

When you mix something with water, it can change the pH by a lot so I test the cleanser while it's on my face and lathered with water rather than straight out of the container. Tap water pH also varies a lot, which in turn affects the pH of your product if it gets mixed with tap water.

I think all hair experimenters especially no pooers should own some pH test strips. Since we're not using a product that has been regulated and safety checked (even minimally) we should be able to check at least one factor (pH). pH test strips can be bought and many big box stores as they are necessary for pool maintenance. I bought mine on Amazon.

200 test strips, great ratings, under $6: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_Sz1ZCb97EPPCK

I keep some in a spray bottle and had mine last months. I check it with these. Never had a prob.

Litmus pH Test Strips, Universal Application (pH 1-14), 2 Packs of 100 Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_DPgAwb07HPNZW

It bares mention I always over mix as well. When kegging, I'll use about enough for 2.5 gal in 1.5. Better to be safe than frugal.

I am not a specialist, since I just begin in the AB community, but dry people lack oil and its genetic, and dehydrated people lack water.

Be sure to drink enough water each day (8 glasses at least) but for your ph concern, you can maybe just check on google of people looked for the ph of their product. Or, if you wanted a product anyway, you can buy some strips especially for that on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Litmus-Strips-Universal-Application-Packs/dp/B00S730YWG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479873268&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+strips

I saw there's also a digital ph tester.

Don't bother with strips. They usually don't have the range/precision you need. You can buy a digital meter for really cheap on Amazon if you really want one.

People talk down about these all the time but mine has stayed calibrated and functional since christmas. The secret apparently is storing it how you use it vertically

Jellas Pocket Size PH Meter / PH Tester / Mini Water Quality Tester for Household Drinking Water, Hydroponics, Aquariums, Swimming Pools, PH 0-14.0 Measuring Range, 0.1PH Resolution (Yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6B6.ybMED6HWD

You could always get this as well

General Hydroponics GH1514 General Hydroponics Ph Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tD6.yb5VT9XYB

I used this one last season. No problems with it. Cheap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

​

​

Not sure you can calibrate w/o the solutions.

I use this. Mine came factory calibrated. Double-checked with their provided calibration solutions. Their customer support was very helpful since the calibration solutions do not come with instructions:
https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/

How much should I be spending on a PH pen are these cheap $20 Ones any good? [Like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Jellas-Household-Hydroponics-Aquariums-Resolution/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496521064&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+pen)

Also should the PH Be at 5.8 In the runoff, or what I feed the plant

I hope I'm not too late! I'm looking at getting a ph meter to add another element to my brewing.

Does anyone have [this meter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YBUH4RC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bgV4ybF47N2CA)? I'm not really finding anything about the temps. it works at.

I ordered and have been using this Jellas pocket sized pH meter.

By pH down solution, do you mean something like this.

This is the one I am using. Its worked perfectly right out of the box so no complaints here. I hadn't thought of that but I'm going to go do it right now, thanks for the suggestion!

These are the models I went with, they've been working flawlessly so far:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBUH4RC
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VK4YY0

Definitely worth every penny, even if they do end up breaking sooner.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481968489&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ph+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=41w2JXOokIL&ref=plSrch
So something like that would work to test dirty runoff as well? Thanks

Like you, I needed a pen but didn't want to pay a cnote for one. I'm already using drops because I feel it's more accurate, but wanted a pen to compare to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YBUH4RC/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H7N0T6GZ8T1Q6HVCB7SJ

I went with Amazon because if it craps out or doesn't work properly, I have like 3 months to return it. I mean, theoretically you could do this with the bluelab one and return it before their window runs out, but that feels scummy. I figure if nothing else, I'm only out like 13 bucks.

Just toss them in there. All over. Packets or gel beads. You will have to clean em up eventually so, if you have the little gel beads maybe put them in little Solo cups (which are great btw, many kinds are reusable if you bake in oven, see package)

You want the dessicant to be close to the cards, all the cards. I also keep a humidity/thermometer with my cards and try and keep them below 80 f, (65 is near optimal but unfeasable in the summer) above 40 f and around 40% humitidy.

The biggest concerns are long term exposure to humidity, which silica will help, and quick changes of temperature from cold to warm, which can invite moisture.

I bought a 5lb jar of silica for my collection on Amazon. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013L2Z2MY/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?psc=1 but slightly smaller.

Regarding the ammo can storage: I found a cheap way of doing this by buying the gel stuff off Amazon plus some cans. Links below. I opened up one of my ammo cans a few months later to get some ammo out and I checked the color of the gel out of curiosity. I was surprised at how much the color had changed (indicating moisture absorption). I live in a dry climate and did not expect much change.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013L2Z2MY/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GE5GGZC/

A long time ago my now-wife got water in the lens of her Canon point-and-shoot. We bought these and they seemed to do the trick after a few days. Slowly the spot shrunk until it was gone.

The nice part about those desiccant packs is that you can put them in the oven to "recharge" them.

Good luck, and report back here to let us know if it worked.

You want reusable ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hydrosorbent-OSG-40-Dehumidifier-Desiccant-Chloride/dp/B015OT106O/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1488241398&sr=1-5&keywords=reusable+silica+gel

However, these will need frequent drying if in an unconditioned space in a humid climate.

Another option is a goldenrod. Is is a small(12W for the 12" model) electric heater that keeps a closed volume a few degrees warmer than the surrounding environment. This creates a microclimate that prevents condensation on the protected metal things.

I have used the oven method one time, and glad I came back to check it out. I do not recommend using the oven, temps are unstable relatively, and the time needed to dry and the low temps needed, I can not achieve with my oven (full electric lowest temp is 140°f which is 60°c. I know it was unstable do to the filament getting too soft (recommend oven temp is 40°c, if I'm not mistaken).

So I would recommend food dehydrator, here are search results for you https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=filament+dehydrator&dwh=765d2638b300bca

My dry box has no design I just grab something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Latching-Storage-Container-FG3Q2500CLMCB/dp/B002EGNTP6/ref=sr_1_34?gclid=CjwKCAjwmZbpBRAGEiwADrmVXhoB2wgZo-4gx7z0t49bn2TK9weXoN3pqk-2uQZ89k0uOZa3kjGyxhoC-4wQAvD_BwE&hvadid=174242580843&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9005648&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10792283390857055523&hvtargid=kwd-123073099&hydadcr=15250_9600094&keywords=rubbermaid+bin&qid=1562786027&s=gateway&sr=8-34. The one I got was from family dollar, so it only costed like $7.

I used this for the feed holes https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2172384

Silica is enough when you have a ton of it, those little packets are fine for vacuum sealed stuff, IMO, but you want more than the 30-50 pellets that come in the single packet. I recommend https://www.amazon.com/Industry-Indicating-Desiccants-Dehumidifier-Air-Tight/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?crid=3MHZ5INHY9XMM&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1562786465&s=gateway&sprefix=silica+p%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-12-spons&psc=1, take the money you save on the box (when bought from a bargain store) and put the difference into that or buy some cheaper stuff and add this to the mix https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3QHXOT7LWVYXF&keywords=humidity+gauge&qid=1562786618&s=gateway&sprefix=humidity%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A39VTLCPMNRL3Z

Again the links above are for reference to visually understand what I am mentioning. You can obviously find this stuff cheaper elsewhere. I just prefer amazon or ebay for certain things (TBH 90% of everything I buy, haven't purchased in store items, other than food, for a long time now).

I’ve heard of people using bulk desiccants such as this

https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW

It can even be re used after, and is dirt cheap.

Depends on where you live. I've stored guns in foam cases for weeks without issue but I'm in Phoenix. If you can get the shelf closed up fairly well and can keep some desiccant in there https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0zoxCbD7B7YKQ you could change it out and dry it as needed and should be good.

I live in a pretty humid climate as well, and the best advice I got was to use the least amount of liquid possible, add citric last, and keep the batches small. Here's the recipe I developed:

1/2 c. Baking soda
3/8 c. Citric acid
1/4 c. Corn starch (or tapioca, arrowroot, etc)
2 tsp. Bentonite Clay (optional)
2-3 tsp. Flowers/tea/herbs/etc (optional)
1/4 tsp. Epsom or Sea salt
1/2 tsp. Witch hazel/water/alcohol
1 tbsp. Coconut oil (or shea, cocoa, olive, etc)
About 1/2 tsp. (tops) essential oils
5-10 spritzes of witch hazel IF NEEDED

I had over 80% humidity for a solid 4 months and was still able to make really good BBs. The other thing that helps is silicate packs, like they put in food. These are reusable, just pop em in the microwave or oven to dehydrate and use again! My bombs dry in a few hours now:

https://smile.amazon.com/Wisedry-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Indicating-Reusable/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1542658701&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silicate+packets

Here what I use, it allows for 2 rolls in a bag or larger rolls.

Hefty Slider Jumbo Storage Plastic Bags - 2.5 Gallon Size, 3 Boxes of 15 Bags (45 Total) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741C6N93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ck3ZCb48A269W

Plus these for inside the bag

5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel Packets Rechargeable Desiccant Pouches with Color Indicating Beads Reusable Moisture Absorbers Bags for Gun Safes Closet Tools Storage Food Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Bl3ZCb4H14CA1

I would just buy those card boxes you mentioned in the OP and limit how much you shift things around, it is not the boxes that are causing the scuffling as much as it's just the cards rubbing together.

I also bought these silicon moisture packs and put them in the boxes to reduce moisture the cards take in which cuts down on risk of having the cards warp

WiseDry makes "rechargeable" food grade ones in different sizes. For folks new to food storage, keep in mind that moisture packets are different from oxygen absorbers.

Just by heating it? Nice.
I was gonna buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7V19JE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3TTLWB3O3TZXN&psc=1

>You can add in desiccants or mothballs if you're worried about mold or bugs.

Is that, like, a must, or only "if I'm worried"? They may remain in storage for years so there's that.

And wdym, like, putting one of these in the bag: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=silica&qid=1572639931&sr=8-11 ?

Get a big dessicant pack and keep it in your container. Caps will dissolve if filled with water after just a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/6PACKS-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Packets-indicating/dp/B0781BN1BZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=dessicants+packets&qid=1562613345&s=gateway&sprefix=dess&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

To answer your original question, take a given quantity of choline, then you'll need to slowly dissolve the choline in 10 ml of water until it no longer dissolves, then weigh what's left and subtract that quantity from the original. Divide that number by 10 and you get the concentration in mg/ml.

Let's say you got 22 mg/ml and you want to take 300 mg. 300/22=13.6. You'll need 13.6 ml of solution to get that 300 mg.

Conversely to this, I use these ph strips I've never done honey, but in all my vegetable ferments i've always gotten readings at 4 or less. So even in a .5 margin of error you're still under the 4.6 pH for botulism safety.

Definitely. It’s the most accurate one can get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTH14XZ

pH Test Strips for Kombucha Brewing 0-6 (0.5 Intervals) 100pc Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTH14XZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zW9KDbJJSDGKR

Meter I use: [here]https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A0MHHBW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1505272717&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ppm+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=31jdwwwK2WL&ref=plSrch

pH strips I use here

Since we're sharing our pH meters, I use this when I need to check (which isn't all that often)

Here's the Amazon link for anyone interested:

https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/