Best circuit testers according to redditors
We found 280 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit testers. We ranked the 84 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 280 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit testers. We ranked the 84 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Power Probe III Clamshell - Red (PP3CSRED) [Car Automotive Diagnostic Test Tool, Digital Volt Meter, AC/DC Current Resistance, Circuit Tester]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31USwGZKEXL.jpg)
Do yourself a favor and buy a circuit breaker finder, the tool has paid for itself for the time it saved me.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Electrical-Standard/dp/B003LHJSY8/
Just for the love of god what is Kline's fascination with stupid push buttons that get activated in the back of the van so i gotta hear beeping from that and the five wireless testers i have lost in other bags?
buy me
Yea. OP should take his plug-in tester next time to find out.
Edit: One of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ubaXAbTVZKVJJ
This is a great way into learning enough about your house to tackle some home improvement. Low voltage wiring such as ethernet (and speaker wires if you do a home theater / media room) is easy and safe, and has very relaxed building code compared to actual electrical work.
Like always, good tools are key:
For single story, it's pretty trivial if you have a half-decent crawl-space under the house, or an attic you can move around in. I've gone below and above once each in the two different houses I've owned.
For below:
If you're trying to put jacks in an exterior wall, you need to know how much space you have between the framing and your foundation. If none, it's going to be more difficult to go below, and the insulation means finding wires in the wall is harder (avoid exterior walls if possible).
For above:
For the terminating work, just follow the color guide on the keystone. If you have a nicer spring-loaded 110 punch tool, make sure the blade faces the outside :) Coil any cable slack inside the wall (dont' feed it back down), Snap the keystone into the cover and screw it into the wall. Most people in the home lab community are going to get a 19" rack-mountable patch panel for the aggregation side, which generally use the same 110-style terminating plates on the rear, or you can get a rack-mountable keystone plate, and install keystones on both ends. Then your switch and rack are hopefully in the same location you pulled all the cable to.
Test it, plug in, and enjoy! Wired gigabit is so much better than wireless, or power-line adapters. You can pull some multi-mode fiber too, if you feel like doing 10G in the future.
EDIT: fixing markdown
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Above is the answer.
Also, do not consult this electrician again after:
> He also said that the the electricity has been "cleaned out" even before the house could use it so it's not possible that it's the grounding.
Something like this
The plug generates a signal on the circuit that the finder looks for.
Get an outlet tester (for instance http://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-RT210-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B01AKX8L0M) and check the entire house. I have an old house as well, and I am slowly replacing the original knob & tube wiring with Romex.
Former electrician here. Electrical grounding is very important for your safety. That is why the ground line to every outlet is highly regulated, and not optional. That being said, the grounding on any outlet in your home is connected to every other ground in your home. If there is some kind of ground fault, say for example a neutral-to-ground anywhere on that circuit, it can not only cause hum (sarcastic understatement /s)... it can cause a fire! Audio people tend to deal with "hum" and it leads to a phenomena called "audiophile" where bogus suppositions become regarded as audio truths, pretty much any unchallenged supposition eventually becomes a bias over time. That being said, it's not entirely untrue; Many audio cables are unbalanced circuits and generate their own noise. Induction, and RF interference are big contributors to this effect. Anyways, all I can say for your power outlets is to test them with a device mostly because I would not want you to damage your expensive equipment on faulty wiring. I would also highly recommend using a UPS between the wall and the equipment.
This tester is what you are describing and should do pretty much everything (testing to see if outlet still works, checking for ground faults, etc.) No need for carrying a lamp around.
And yeah, they are super cheap.
And if you find no GFCI breakers, (a "test" button on the breaker is a good indication that it is GFCI or Arc-Fault protection, the fine-print on the breaker label will indicate which), there may be an "upstream" GFCI outlet protecting kitchen and outdoor circuits. In a recent house, for Kitchen it would need to be in kitchen/pantry/dining room, and hopefully visible -- rather than behind a stove or refrigerator...
Easiest way to check is with a GFCI outlet tester, but then you still need to find the GFCI face with the reset button in order to get power back on the circuit.
In newish houses with the main breaker panel in the garage, it is not un-common to have a GFCI outlet in the garage that is the protection for some outdoor or crawlspace outlets.
lets clear some basic things up first.
What you are experiencing is an Amperage overload of the particular circuit which the AC units are drawing power from. first thing you should do is open your breaker panel and find out what the AMPERAGE of each circuit breaker is. In older buildings 15A is a typical circuit rating.
Next find the Electrical specifications on your AC units, usually a sticker on the side of the unit. the Amperage rating will tell you how much power the unit draws while its operating. A small window unit(5000 BTU) typically will draw about 5 Amps.
Next you have to determine which outlets correspond to the breakers in your panel, there are a couple ways to do this, but a (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1497371291&sr=1-5&keywords=circuit+breaker+finder)[circuit finder] is the safest for someone who lacks electrical knowledge. I would suggest labeling your outlets and breakers accordingly with a label maker.
once you figure out which breakers correspond to your apartments outlets you can do some simple math to determine where to plug your AC units in. For example; If your refrigerator and toaster oven are plugged into outlets fed from breaker #2 you could be running close to 12 amps on that breaker if you add 5 more to that you will exceed the breakers resistance when all 3 are running. you will need to plug the AC into a different outlet that is fed from breaker #1 or #3.
some things to note when planning your electrical appliances. High Amperage appliances are most used in the kitchen, Microwave ovens, toasters, refrigerators, dishwashers, electric kettles, electric stoves, so its best to avoid adding an AC unit to kitchen outlets.
Assuming you're in the US:
Check your outlet that you have the computer plugged into. It does sound like an open ground like others are saying.
http://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2
I'm linking this one even though others are cheaper because it has a button to test GFCI. You should check in your bathrooms, outside, etc every few years to make sure they detect and trigger properly. It could save your life.
I know in my case for my most recent house, I used a Circuit Breaker Finder. Have a helper plug it into an outlet, scan the panel til you find what you think it is. Flip the breaker, the power light at on the unit plugged in goes off to confirm, write it down, move on. That, with a light socket plug adatper got the majority of circuits out of the way. I was lucky that I had the finder at work, and can see how spending $40 can be a bit much for what most people see as a one time task.
For previous houses, I've had a few different methods. If I'm doing the entire house, I'd grab as many electric things as I could find and plug them in all over. Lamps, plug testers, radios, basically anything that would give me indication that the power was on or not. Then yes, sweep.
If I'm looking for a single breaker, I would just plug in a set of speakers, play some music and flip breakers until the music stops.
Hey there! I started circuit bending a year or so ago and I was asking a lot of the same questions as you.
Google around for circuit bending tutorials and you are bound to find some.
Here's what worked for me:
-These are usually found in thrift stores, like Goodwill.
-Don't buy new toys from a department store, they usually have electronic components that are more modern and harder to mess with.
-Don't spend a lot of money on a thing unless you are certain you know exactly how you are going to mess with it. I'm poor, so saving money was a huge aspect for me.
-Look for stuff that was made somewhere between 1980 - 2005ish. test it out in the store first to make sure it makes noises, the more the better. (You can sometimes hear if a toy is older, its sounds sometimes sound a bit more 'low-quality' or something... At least to me. One indicator is this: If the batteries are running low, a good toy to circuit bend will make some odd sounds.)
-solder
-a soldering iron
-Alligator leads(clips)
-Several screwdrivers of varying sizes.
-Several smaller screwdrivers
-wire
-resistors (look online for more details)
-These are the basics, but there may be more you need. Look online more.
-Use an area with good light.
-Google for tutorials for your specific item. You might have gotten lucky and gotten a commonly circuit-bent item.
-Google for tutorials for specific effects. You might want to make your item make certain sounds. Google will help you find people who have done it before you, if it has been done.
-Google for tutorials for any questions you have. People have probably asked it before. If you get stuck, phrase your question as many ways as possible and Google the variations. You will find answers, even if they are not the specific ones you were looking for. All information you digest will help you better learn this game of circuit bending.
Yeah man... I dunno. Just use Google and if you're really into it, keep reading more about it. Stop by every thrift store you see or if you're loaded, buy whatever shit you wanna bend on Ebay. Buy the stuff you need online, at local electronic stores, or if you absolutely have to, radio shack.
Here's a good site to start. Just read.
This tool is worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Standard-Klein-Tools-ET300/dp/B003LHJSY8
As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.
When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.
get a circuit breaker finder
just insert the plug into the outlet you're interested in, go to the fuse box, and then wave the wand at the circuit panel. it'll beep when you're pointing at the breaker that matches the outlet. it's a time saver!
Use a furman power conditioner,
And get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rSk-ybESFZZE0
Replace them. Lights are cheap. Much cheaper than going through the trouble of going through and testing each bulb.
You can also get one of these fancy contraptions - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK
https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Tester-Receptacle-Indications-Electric/dp/B071FVB35Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502239375&sr=8-3&keywords=gfci+electrical+tester+trip
8 bucks. Plug it in, (preferrably while they are standing there) and push the button. It trips the circuit at the breaker. Then find out which one it is and leave it off, put a label on it or a safety LOTO cover on it.
When you plug it in, it checks for proper wiring, when you push the button, all the little lights go off when the breaker trips. They sell them at almost all home improvement stores in some form.
> would the inspector only look at my work, or would they look at the whole electrical system?
Just the item s/he's inspecting. They'll look over the box and your mains connection. If there's anything truly bad (frayed wires, splices in junction boxes to extend circuit runs, knob & tube still in use,) they may look that over.
Fixing things yourself is not a stupid idea at all! Safety is important, but so is learning and doing.
Stop fretting! My gf & I do all our own electrical work, and have for decades. If an inspector asks, play dumb. They'll tell you what you need to do. This stuff ain't rocket science, and at very worst, you might have to pay a small fine on top of a permit fee.
If you have the time, do a bit of reading and fix it yourself. You must follow some rules: use proper gauge or heavier wire for your load, don't mix wire sizes in a circuit, understand that a 220v circuit is two "ganged" 110v circuits from different phases in your box. (Sounds like you've got that right.)
You should have pulled 8 AWG wire for a stove & oven. Did you?
Know which wire is what. A cheap receptical tester will tell you that, though it sounds like you've at least got a meter.
Don't worry about your work. Sounds solid. Leave it be.
Replace the terminal block in the stove if it looks bad enough. That's easier to do than the work you've already done!
Don't sweat it! You can do it!
Turn off circuits or the MAIN!
If worried: Wear work gloves or use insulated tools.
DIY!
If you're in Bangor, Maine I'll come by and help out! Easy peasy!
http://www.amazon.com/Triplett-HotWire-3388-Circuit-Generator/dp/B0046SPMG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462460233&sr=8-3&keywords=Fox+and+Hound+tracer
This will work just as well for a home owner.
I've used it for many things and it's worth every cent.
They also make very inexpensive circuit testers with a GFCI button to simulate the kind of short it trips on, handy to have to make sure everything is in working order on a regular basis: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
Something like this could help if you can't physically find the cable, though you'd be poking the probe around lots of random places
We have this thing called a light keeper (link), it can usually fix bulbs that won't light and can detect current in the cables so you can find where the problems are. Even still though, the tree is lit to about 90% now after half an hour of fiddling. Dark spots were filled in with regular light strands. Probably wouldn't buy another prelit, looks amazing when it works though.
Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!
My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.
I use one of these: Circuit Breaker Finder
The transmitter plugs into the outlet and transmits a radio signal through the wire. At the panel, the receiver is passed closely over each breaker. The receiver beeps when the correct breaker is located.
The other method is to plug in a lamp that you can see from the panel or a radio that you can hear, then turn off each breaker one at a time until the correct breaker is located.
You can get a ground tester
I'd get one of these and check the outlets,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FVB35Q/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1
Something is improperly grounded in/on your case, or there's voltage on the ground in your outlet. Make sure you don't have any loose screws behind your mobo or something, and that all your connections are secure. Go to Walmart or something and pick up one of these to make sure your outlet isn't screwed up.
GFCI will work just fine. There may be some confusion on your part about the wording as a GFCI actually measures the current on the hot conductor and returning on the neutral conductor. If there is more than a 5ma (milli-amp) difference between those amounts, the GFCI trips for a personnel protection GFCI. Equipment protection GFCI trips when the difference is 30ma.
GFCI protection was considered an acceptable form of protection for ungrounded circuits in past editions of the NEC (National Electric Code), probably still is, but I can't be arsed to look up the code reference right now.
Edit:
> Is there something I can measure with my voltmeter to check if the inverter-powered circuit is compatible?
You can purchase a cheap GFCI trip tester at any hardware store or you can buy a much more expensive tester to verify that the GFCI trips within the correct range for milliamps and milliseconds.
Yes, the power unit or power box is what generates the signals and electrodes are what contacts your body to provide the sensations. When comparing units, there are several factors involved.
First is power level, this is strength of the signal. As a beginner, you probably won't need to worry about the power level since any of these options would provide enough power. TENS, PES, and ET-323 are all around the same power level. I believe all of them are alkaline battery power like a standard 9v. A step up is ET-312 which is powered by a 12v sealed led acid battery that can be recharged. Don't let the 12v vs 9v scare you. The voltage has nothing to do with the output signal level which is always going to be adjustable. The ET-312 does have a higher potential output which is important if you use electrodes in certain locations or want multiple channels of output.
The second factor is frequency. Low frequency generates a sensation like a dull throb and can sometimes feel like a vibrator. It can also create a fast thumping sensation if the power level is up a little higher. Higher frequencies can cause a wide range of sensations like buzzing to tickling to something impossible to describe. Typically, high frequency and low power is suggested as an initial setting and ramp up the power until you start to feel a tingling. All units will have a range of frequency with the higher end units like the ET-323 and ET-312 able to generate the highest. PES doesn't go as high but higher than tens.
Third is wave patterns. Typical wave patterns are the shape of the electrical signal. Some basic ones are triangle, square, or sine (smooth/rounded). Different wave patterns feel different. Sinewave signals feel the "smoothest" while square or triangle have a bit more bite. I believe the PES and TENS units just generate one pattern which is usually either sine or square. ET-323 and ET-312 have a number of patterns and even combine patterns together in some of the special modes.
Forth is pulse rate (and patterns). A pulse is when the signal comes on for some amount of time and then goes off. WIth TENS and PES, you have a pulse width setting only which is a fixed amount of time it's on and then off and then back on. With the ET-323 you have several options of different variations that are kind of preprogrammed variable pulse rates. With the ET-312, you have even more modes and can adjust the program to have a longer slower build up before ramping up to be more intense and faster. You can even use a computer to program your own modes.
Finally, there is a feature on the ET units that allow you to use audio input to drive the signal. On SmartStim, there is a whole area (or use to be) dedicated to sharing audio files (mp3/wav/etc). Listening to these files, they may sound like repeated noise but they can generate a unique sensation and be a complicated or simple as you like. Stereo files can be used to drive two channels. That brings up dual channels. Dual channels provides two separate stimulation signals. They can be used to stimulate to different areas or, if done right, they can be used to stimulate one area an cause sensations like something stroking you up and down from the inside.
Oh one last note. TENS units uses "pins" as a way to connect to electrodes. PES uses a snap connector. Eros-Tek units use banana plugs. You'll want to double check with the electrodes you buy to see if they will adapt. Generic alligator clip leads might be a good cheap way to connect pretty much anything.
Hope this helps.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tracer-Circuit-Tester-RJ-11-Alligator/dp/B00ADHQCIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+tracer
Get one of these or you'll likely never figure it out.
What do you plan to do about it? Are there extra pairs? Or does new wire need to be pulled through?
Well that's not strictly true. GFCI outlets can be wired onto a circuit without protecting anything else. They have two sets of connections, one for the live wires and one for downstream stuff. If a GFCI outlet is wired up like a normal outlet, it'll only protect itself.
Buy a sub-$10 tester, it'll test if an outlet is protected by GFCI, as well as telling you about a bunch of other things that could be wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC
Buy one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457031556&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+plug+checker
And check. They should be for sale at any local hardware store for under $10. That is a easy 5 second test to see if you are grounded or not.
Why not just get something like this? Walking back and forth or having someone help you seems like it would be a better idea than drop lights all over the place.
First, name absolutely everything connected to the protected side of the GFCI, include everything, switches, lights, fans, smart switches, outlets, electronics, etc.
Second, get yourself a GFCI outlet tester. Test all outlets on that breaker, even ones that shouldn't be GFCI.
i think understading how GFCI works will help, and i think there are two possible things that can cause it. First power filters, many devices ground noise (especially electronics and things that make lots of noise like motors), normally this is fine but too much through ground trips GFCI. It can be random because it could be noise from multiple devices that add up to too much, it could be heavy noise from a different circuit getting grounded behind the GFCI. And second, screwed up wiring, specifically hot shorted to the unprotected hot of the GFCI or neutral shorted to ground or the unprotected neutral. Both create paths around the GFCI and will trip it. I would open up all boxes from the GFCI and beyond and check it, I feel like this could be as simple one of those bare ground wires getting really close to the neutral lug when the outlet is pressed into the box.
I don't know what kind of work you do, I do everything, and once in awhile these save the day. They aren't tools I use often but they make life easier sometimes
Screw Extractor set
Knipex Plier Wrench
Klein tube cutter
Deep sockets in small case with an Impact Adaptor
Klein cct finder
Hopefully somebody can chime in on this one. Do LEDs have a shunt built into each bulb?
I know the incandescents do, and there is a tool that is almost miraculous. I have one of these guys, and it works. Never tried it on an LED, however:
https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK
Not a cheap answer, but I use one of these and I find it invaluable for all wire tracing issues (live and dead):
http://www.amazon.com/Triplett-3388-HotWire-Circuit-Tracing/dp/B0046SPMG4/
I don't know if that's an expensive tool for you, but if you do any amount of wiring where you have to work with existing stuff you don't know everything about, you'll make good use of this.
That sounds like some kind of short from the outlet you are plugged into. A "mild continuous shock" is not mistakable and if you felt if you'll know you did. I'd at the minimum get one of these and check the outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=zg_bs_14244461_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ACPGZN7D2NFKET1Z33H2
You can pick one of these up at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc., for only a couple of bucks usually: http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
They're worth it.
I have this one from amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHQCIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've only used it once to find some buried speaker wire that the builder left in the ceiling but it worked perfectly.
This is pretty creative solution to your problem. If you dont have an iPad around, you might be interested in investing in one of these: http://amzn.com/B003LHJSY8
The Fluke MicroScanner2 is an excellent tool for getting to the bottom of suspected cabling issues:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-TTK-MicroScanner2-Generator/dp/B0013FGUQO
But at $800 is can be difficult to justify.
A simple, primitive cabling pin-out tester can at least let you know that all 8 wires in the cable are working:
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Multi-functional-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B01EA8P1OM
The $10 to $50 price tag is much more palatable.
If you have the miniature incandescent lights, this tool is awesome:
https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK
NOTE: Does not work on LEDs.
I've had the same problem before. Most of the time it was just a loose light in one of the sockets. Finding that bulb and replacing it or re-working the wire connectors on the bulb so that they fit the socket better seemed to work. I've also had some success with this guy. Though I only paid five bucks for it in an after Christmas sale, and I really use it mainly for popping out light bulbs more easily. It does seem to help sometimes though.
http://www.amazon.com/ELECTRICAL-RECEPTACLE-TESTER-OUTLET-PRONG/dp/B002Q3R7HI
This here is your friend:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-breakers-receptacles-circuits/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1408665153&sr=1-2&keywords=circuit+breaker+finder
For ~$30 you can plug it into an outlet, and point the wand at the breaker panel. The wand beeps when you point to the right one. Working on bare wire? Strip back an old extension cord and crimp on some insulated alligator clips.
Doepfer PSUs are solid. As others have said, you may have another issue. Try find an outlet tester like the one shown here, but for continental Europe obviously. This will quickly rule out or identify the mains wiring to that outlet as the problem
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Also, I would suggest disconnecting the Bus Boards if they aren't already.
> Have to do a couple more tests with the fusebox to see what's connected to what
I personally use a circuit/wire tracer for this sort of electrical work.
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Kit-Electrical-Troubleshooting-Functions/dp/B0014FNWJG?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1&th=1
The case and PSU body should both be grounded, such that you should not receive any current even if there is an electrical fault within the computer.
Are you using a grounded cable (with all three pins going to the outlet), and is your electrical system grounded correctly? (Might need one of these to test) Anyway that's all safety related stuff, if there is current flowing from your PSU body then it sounds faulty and I would avoid using it or at least try to do some testing if you have a multimeter.
What you're looking for is [one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Digital-Circuit/dp/B003LHJSY8)
Toners work great if you can access both ends of the wire, but the cheap ones are not so great at tracing wire through walls. The more expensive ones can trace easily through drywall.
Wow, definitely a classic "New IT guy" project...
Personally, I would tidy up what you can and leave it until you go through a remodel. Maybe start by cleaning up the patch panels and cables coming from the ceilings to the racks in the IDFs. By the time you get that done you will probably be knee-deep in other projects and won't have to deal with the messy shit in the ceilings. Check out r/cableporn for inspiration.
If you do have to deal with the whole shebang, Cat5 is still viable for 1gbit in most instances. If something is obviously damaged or so ridiculously out of code that it has to go, cut it off and pull it out. A tone and probe kit will help find the cable along the way.
For the stuff running along rafters, tied to conduits or just generally not supported/hung, ceiling wires, J-hooks, and rolls of velcro strapping are what you need.
Light Keeper PRO 01201 The Complete Tool for Fixing Miniature Light Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7Tk8BbQEMWA35
This saves me ever year.
Here’s a video to explain, there a more detailed 40 min video on their channel.
https://youtu.be/xrXRxOIjVm0
It sounds like the electrician took the fan and light off of the GFCI circuit or wired them into the circuit upstream of the GFCI(that's the only way to have them work when the GFCI is tripped). This may seem like a weird question, but what type of switch do you use for your light? It is a standard flip switch, or is it a dimmer, smart, or otherwise non standard switch? Are the lights in your bathroom smart lights?
​
Also you and/or the electricians probably already did this, but if you haven't I would use a tester similar to this one to make sure nothing is weird with the wiring.
I've thought about picking up a circuit breaker finder, like this one to help identify all my circuits. If I were starting over and moving to a new house that didn't have all the breakers labeled I'd definitely do it. Much easier than the idea of testing each one with a lamp and two people yelling (or phoning) back and forth.
I would get an outlet tester and see if your wiring is basically correct. Thinking this is a ground issue.
Not the best method to test but something like
this will check for obvious issues.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z74yCb93HF2KM
I use this tool to find out if outlets are on the same circuit. It also works to check whether the electricity in an outlet is turned on and functioning properly.
You need to first check the power plug is properly grounding. https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
I've had good success using something like these to at least test power to the board, the LCD and the on-board switches before mounting the board in the box. You can just clip them to the Bat+ and Bat- and run them to a battery pack.
http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-6-Standard-Alligator-10-Piece/dp/B0002JJU28/
All those blue cables and the single white one might be cat5, so the statement doesn't make much sense. cat5 just means it's a 4-pair cable that has a certain number of twists per inch to meet frequency requirements.
If he had said "Row 7 on the 66 block is hot", that would mean something.
Now that I think of it, he could mean that of all the connected rows shown there, only 1 is passing the centurylink signal to a wall jack.
Either way, you need to map what row on that 66 block goes to what wall jack. The usual way is to map it with a tone generator. Trial and error is the other way (e.g., keep moving the centurylink signal on the 66 block until it lands on the wall jack you want).
At the very least, you could get a friend on a cell phone to sit at the wall jack that works while you sit at the 66 block. Start disconnecting stuff one-by-one until your friend tells you the signal went out. You'll have at least found where that wall jack is on the 66 block - or you found where the centurylink signal is coming in. The logic being you either disconnected the incoming signal to the block, or you disconnected the wall jack from the block. A punchdown tool is handy for making connections to the 66 block - just make sure you have the cutting blade pointed the right way.
GFCI outlets are pretty cheap and easy to install. You will just wire them without a ground wire. Use one of these to check whether you wired it properly http://www.amazon.com/ELECTRICAL-RECEPTACLE-TESTER-OUTLET-PRONG/dp/B002Q3R7HI.
Keep in mind that this will not ground your equipment and it must be labeled properly to be up to code according to that link someone posted. FYI I did this for a few outlets in my apartment last year and it works just fine. If you have something that truly needs to be grounded (some sensitive test equipment, for example) I just run an extension cord from the bathroom outlet which is actually grounded.
get one of these, will tell you right away. I'm having the same problem, none of my outlets are grounded, however its a mix of three prong and two prong outlets, but that doesn't matter, there is just no ground at all.
Amperage would be nice for checking on draws and circuit load, but unless you have a decent understanding of electrical it's probably a waste. Voltage and continuity are probably the most used features. A Power Probe might be a better option than a basic meter. It can tell you where you're power and grounds are.
amazon.com/dp/B00G4YUWMC
Thanks for mentioning the toner. I was trying to figure out how to send a signal like that.
Is this adequate?
And after I send the signal, how do I know where to pick it up in the attic? Just test all the junction boxes I see until I get a hit? Thanks again.
As lenne0816 said, it's either a grounding issue or there could be a short to your front panel causing it to trip the power button.
Check that the front panel wires/pins are all placed correctly and that everything is how it generally should be in your case. If everything is absolutely correct, it may be in your best interest to get one of these and call an electrician if something is wrong. You'd be surprised how many houses are improperly grounded.
Could also just be one of your LED strips or the controller are bad. Try unplugging everything not necessary for booting and see if it fixes it.
https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK
Buy one of these. I was skeptical, but assuming you're using regular Christmas lights strands, it will have you sorted out in 30 seconds.
Although shooting them with an actual gun might be more fun.
http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
one of those will tell you if your wall socket has a ground and wired correctly.
I did a tutorial a while back on r/tools (the moderator pissed me off I deleted it and have not been there ever since) but it utilizes wireless AC volt detector. The tip of the non-contact volt detector is a copper wire...adding more metal to the "antenna" makes it more sensitive to detecting/tracing inside walls AC wire.
https://imgur.com/p8299oL ....found the old .gifv http://i.imgur.com/yhHfcy4.gifv (increasing the sensitivity of the non-contact detector, allows you to trace live wires in walls)
Although there are tracing wire tools too like this one..
http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-701K-G-Professional-Probe-Tracing/dp/B0042VII7A/ref=pd_sim_469_1/185-8648989-3569339?ie=UTF8&dpID=41w9Vu4bwuL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=001PGX2S3M97GERFGKA3
I typed a long way to fix it using a multimeter or a Non-Contact Voltage Tester and it deleted itself. I even had a joke. Just Get this LIght fixer thing that works
a found you a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAzbqMTrp40
Get yourself an outlet tester, they are cheap and small. Everyone should own one in their personal toolkit:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/
It's not exactly uncommon for someone to get sick and tired of dealing with 2 prong outlets who then shuts off a circuit and replaces the outlets with 3 prong versions that have a spot for the ground but aren't actually grounded to anything (since an outlet costs less than $1).
The proper way to deal with that (if you're not replacing wiring) is a GFCI with a tag of "no equipment ground" that can protect the entire circuit of outlets or be done at each box. Sometimes, boxes that old will be small enough that GFCIs might be tricky to fit without replacement of the enclosure.
While plenty of things can be "grandfathered", I think it's generally a code violation to have a ground receptacle that's not actually grounded. If you wanted to run down that road and raise heck, get a tester to verify. It might give you a bit more leverage in asking for at least GFCI outlet installation.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-50957-GFCI-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIU
http://communities.leviton.com/servlet/JiveServlet/downloadImage/2-1134-1005/450-141/gfcibig.JPG
> The wall outlet may not be grounded but is 3-prong.
Pick up one of these puppies and get that outlet tested, stat. If the outlet checks out, check the power cord for any frays/cuts, then check the PSU and consider replacing it.
Either way, definitely sounds like something isn't properly grounded.
Plug in a vacuum or hair dryer and turn it on. Then flip the breaker switch. Or buy one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
the narrow slot is the hot one. there's voltage there; there's not usually in the neutral one. But what non-contact testers detect are magnetic fields, not actually voltage. Different outlets have different patterns of magnetic fields, and how you put the wires in the box can mater too. If you're worried about wiring the outlet, use an outlet tester to check it.
There are very few grounded outlets to choose from in my apartment :D But I will give this a shot. I wonder if it is possible to carry out this diagnostic test on the outlets directly using either my multimeter (obviously making sure I know exactly what I'm doing before shoving the leads into the outlet) or using an outlet LED tester
get yourself a circuit tester like this guy that checks the plug wiring. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008E07HM2/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bxldN_g328_i5/182-5900519-4414349?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=1G1PTVJ9YNXMB1QWHWRG&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=5d337716-daba-44f5-9314-e3a703bacc06&pf_rd_i=14244461
This tool has saved multiple trees and light strings for me
My favorite tree had a section out and I couldn't find a bulb that was at fault. The problem was a defective shunt (where the bulb plugs in). This reactivated it and it all came back on. It also beeps as you go along the line until it reaches the point of interruption.
Well worth it.
Get one of these
They work! You'll plug in a socket that you pull a bulb out of, click it a few times and it will light up. Alternatively, it can also help you locate bulbs that are blown.
is the hot and neutral reversed on the outlet. you would need a tester that you plug into the outlet that tests the wiring.
This is just an example. Most stores (not sure what country you are in - but places like home depot and lowes and most hardware stores will carry them. MOst are only a few dollars but get the one with GFCI tester).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FVB35Q
Be interesting to plug one of these in your outlets and see if there's a problem with your wiring.
For the $40 tDCS-kit, instead of buying the more expensive banana plug to mini-alligator-clip adaptors mentioned, would it work to use standard alligator leads like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-TL-6-Standard-Alligator-10-Piece/dp/B0002JJU28
Alternatively, would the $6 'Alligator Clip Adapters' for the Brain Stimulator work for the tDCS-kit?
http://thebrainstimulator.net/purchase/
Use a fox and hound/toner
Plug the tone generator into the desk-side port. Go to the switch room with the probe and as you touch it to the end of each cable you'll be able to figure out which it is.
Except it's not a loose connection, it's a brand new power strip that I have it plugged into.
>You don't know first thing about AC, do you?
You don't have to be so fucking rude about it. I never claimed to be an electrician or even know anything about electrics at all.
All I know, for a fact, is that when I plug it in one way, it shuts off. When I turn it around, it doesn't. Maybe polarity is the wrong word for it, I just assumed it was polarity because this thing is what I was given to make sure everything is plugged in right.
You just plug in the transformer, plug this thing into it, and if the two orange lights come on, you're good. Sometimes it's one orange and the red, then you have to flip the plug in the wall.
It does make a difference, I just don't know exactly what that difference is.
You think something like this will work for me?
amazon
So all I have are lots of jacks and no cable output anywhere I thought maybe like a utility closet would have some outputs but can't seem to find them.
Try one of these $5 tools before you call an electrician.
https://smile.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Receptacle-Extension/dp/B00170KUPC
I've seen other posts about people getting shocked by their hyperx alloy boards.
It's either your wall socket that the PC is plugged into not being properly grounded, or the keyboard itself is not grounded properly in the far left pin meaning it's faulty and you should RMA it.
Check if your wall socket is properly grounded, either using a multimeter or with a wall socket ground fault tester.
Because you also say your PC case shocks you, your wall socket is probably faulty.
Coax testers can be handy.
Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Locations-Explorer-Klein-Tools-VDV512-101/dp/B076DP1534/
How about this???
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Industrial/dp/B003UHNMMS
And what part do I plug it into? Top or bottom on this picture... Imgur
You can test it with an outlet tester https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Power-Outlet-Socket-Tester/dp/B01IR2OZ7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1509770509&sr=1-1&keywords=outlet+tester, with that plugged in you should see the two orange lights and no red light.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: Try something like this
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
We have 3, 2 Greenlee's and 1 Fluke. The Greenlee's are the AT8LK and the 701K-G. The Fluke is the Pro3000 BUT it has never really worked right. I would thoroughly recommend the Greenlee's.
shocked as in electrically? The power (or your amp) is not grounded correctly. You could get something like this here to check the outlets before you play; you can make sure they are grounded with that.
I believe another option would be to get a power conditioner although I do not know much about it.
$5 shipped from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
Get a plug tester. I bring one with me whenever I move to a different place. They are $5 in walmart.
What else is on that circuit? Is there another gfci? Also, do you have an outlet tester? You need one like this: http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GFI-3501-Outlet-Tester/dp/B00170KUPC It is better at testing the outlet than the outlets own test button.
you can get toner tools
basically attach something to one end of a cable
and then go to other end where you think it connects to and attach the other peice,it will tell you if they connect
https://www.amazon.com/Locations-Explorer-Klein-Tools-VDV512-101/dp/B076DP1534/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_328_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WHCCZGMPCHJ63KMHR0CM
for example
Guessing it is... Plan on testing mine once I get this in. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-III-Clamshell-Red/dp/B00G4YUWMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469881011&sr=8-3&keywords=power+probe
Once I know for sure it the switch then plan on replacing.
Thanks. Ugh, add on item. I'm moving into a new house soon, so I might get this circuit breaker finder to map the house while the outlets are still unobstructed.
Receptacle Tester
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR2OZ7Q
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191165988541
http://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-32907.html
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Tools-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-Green-MS102H/206029151
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Analog-Voltage-Detector-Meter/50129726
http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/batteries-battery-chargers/testers/ground-fault-receptacle-tester-and-circuit-analyzer/p-1444431010808-c-6452.htm
Looks a bit like maybe a ground/neutral issue, or maybe just a bad ground on the outlet. Easy to test with one of these.
The MoCa adapters should be the first thing attached to the coax from the wall. There should not be anything inbetween.
Using the items listed in your diagram it should go: coax (from outside) -> modem -> ethernet -> router/switch -> ethernet -> moca -> coax -> moca -> ethernet -> pc
If you have to use a splitter at all, say for television or phone, it should be a two-way splitter that is connected before anything else. So like: coax (from outside) -> 2-way splitter -> modem (split 1) + cable box (split 2)
​
For a sanity check, ensure your coax lines are healthy. Use a coax tester such as this. https://www.amazon.com/Locations-Explorer-Klein-Tools-VDV512-101/dp/B076DP1534/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coax+tester&qid=1563387959&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
If you get errors, then the first thing I would try is re-terminating the ends. If that doesn't work then you're pretty toast.
Get a network tester. It'll tell you once and for all if they are legit ethernet cables.
Or, buy a tool designed for this.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4YUWMC/ref=psdc_14244461_t1_B075S1QC6R
There are cheaper ones, but a logic probe can provide power to any circuit to test them. Also an extremely useful tool for any electrical diagnostics.
Yup, that will work fine. Personally I buy and recommend this set, but it's 5x the cost of the one you linked and for a one time job would probably perform the same.
edit: Since your wall jacks are terminated, a toner/probe set with an RJ45 port would actually save you time. You would plug the RJ45 into a wall port and then go to the patch panel and start searching with the wand, you will find the cable. With just the clips you would probably want to put the clips on each cable at the patch panel side and then go stick the wand into the wall ports, making sure that the wand touches the pins on the RJ45 jack.
Klein cable mapper: Coax Tester Tracer Mapper with Remote Kit, Test up to 4 Locations, Explorer 2, Klein Tools VDV512-101 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DP1534/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AsLDAbNQEY2Y4
Compact cable identifier. It's small enough to fit in a tool belt, and is really easy to use.
That will verify that you have no voltage on the ground. It won't tell you for sure that the ground is good. To check that you need to test between the hot and the ground, if you get a good voltage reading then the ground is good also.
Just testing between the socket ground and the screw on the cover plate doesn't mean you have a good ground. Their may be no ground even though it's a three-prong outlet. You could also get a cheap outlet tester like this to check if the ground is actually good.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
As detailed elsewhere if the box is grounded you can use a 3-prong outlet grounded to the box. To test if the box is grounded, don’t use just any meter, use an electricians low impedance volt meter. Meters without low impedance may give false results for this test.
As detailed in another comment the breaker could also be changed to GFCI. Or the FIRST outlet in a circuit could be changed to GFCI where the rest of the outlets on the circuit are wired to the load terminals of this first outlet. With both of these options 3-prong outlets are allowed without the ground connected. There are caveats: 1) to be code compliment unground 3-prong outlets MUST be protected by GFCI AND labeled “No Equipment Ground” (these labels come in the box with GFCI’s) and 2) the down stream outlets wired without the ground wire connected will fail to trip using a plug in outlet tester with a GFCI test button (this is because they simulate a ground fault by bleeding a trace current to the non-existent ground). To properly test this type of circuit trip the GFCI with its own test button and verify downstream ungrounded outlet have no voltage.
The third and final option is code now allows you to run a separate green ground wire, but it must be connected to the ground bar of a sub-panel or the bonded combined neutral/ground bar in the main service panel. It can’t just connect to something like a water pipe.
Buy an outlet tester, turn off one breaker, test all the outlets/wired devices, label the breaker what everything is. First thing I did moving into my new house.
Edit- seriously tone/probe or outlet tester is totally doable for you even if you don't think you have home skills.
This: https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M
Turn off one switch/breaker at the panel and then go to the area of the house that you guess is associated with that breaker if it isn't labeled- then just plug that thing into all the outlets. It'll light up if its still powered, and not light up if its connected to that breaker.
Usually when I see problems like this its because of a ground issue with the house wiring. Even if you have a ground socket, the ground might not be grounded properly. You may have to contact an electrician or use a ground tester
use a cable tester
My first thought is to get actual information on what outlets are on what circuits. That way you have a starting point for figuring out your best options.
This is pretty easy to do you just need access to the breaker panel and a circuit finder. Something like this.
As long as your doing it label each outlet you test (label tape, sharpie, whatever) with it's circuit number.
Even if you can only test the open circuits on/near the stage you'll have a base of information to start from.
Low voltage cut off feature, part of most hardwiring kits.
Step 1: Figure out if your dash cam is Mini USB, or Micro USB.
Micro USB looks like most cellphone chargers.
Mini USB looks like a box.
Step 2: Figure out what type of fuses your vehicle uses: Mini, Mini low profile common. Micro 2, Micro 3, ATO less common.
Tap a fuse, and all fuses should match your vehicle.
Step 2: Decide: Cheap or Expensive hardwire kit
Hardwire the dash cam to an ignition only fuse.
Do not use: Airbags/Ignition computer/Security system/Headlights/High voltage/Hard to replace/Safety/expensive parts.
Most hardwire to cig lighter (as it is often ignition only) or Ignition key.
There is a device: Fuse tester light ($6 USD) this can be used to identify always on, ignition only, fuses, or you could get a Multimeter ($9 USD) and do the same thing.
---
My personal opinion is Aukey is a bad copy of A119 variants. A119 has a specific hardwiring kit
A119 hardwiring kit ($10 USD) Which is superior to the cheap kit in some ways (able to use ignition coil to decide when on/off as it is 3 wire instead of 2 wire.
Here are some ways to do this:
Easiest/cheapest/laziest:
Slightly better/more professional:
Best/cleanest/most professional:
> I still think its the speakers
Good point. They're really easy to replace, 3 or 4 screws each. Re reading my reply I realize I came off as an asshole, my apologies. Sinus infection.
For $10 or so you can buy a "blown fuse detector" and check all the fuses within a minute.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Industrial/dp/B003UHNMMS
> Theory: The camshaft slipped a tooth and caused un-ignited gas/air mixture to enter the exhaust system and ignite, causing a leak.
What I love about hyundais is how easy it is to change/fix timing, you could always check it. In that model you can just take off one of the top engine mounts, unscrew the plastic on the side. This is a thing, your theory here. It happens.
I Love This Greenlee Drill/Tap set!
And of course my Wera Screwdriver Set. Makes dealing with terminals a breeze.
Everyone here seems to like Milwaukee power tools, but I have a Milwaukee drill/driver, but seriously, I prefer the 12V Bosch drill and impact driver. I was trying to use the brand new Milwaukee to drive a 1/4" lag bolt into my dock, and it stalled about 4 threads in. Grabbed the 8 year old Bosch, and drove it all 3 inches down without a sweat.
ETA: Something I only pull out once in a blue moon, but when I do need it, a good Fox and Hound is an absolute bloody necessity! I have that one for general wires, and my Fluke network test kit one for Coax/Copper Ethernet. I wish there was some way for someone to make one for fiber, but oh well, that's next generation physics.
I guess I should also say, the GreenLee Slug-Buster knockout set is amazing. No time spent trying to pop out slugs from the punches.
Oh, lord, I could go on...
Okay, one last one, sitting on my desk: a Brady printer. I can use that to print wire labels FAST (Real Fast), directly importing from a wire run list in a CSV format, but it also does legend plates, and pushbutton/switch plates. Godly.
Okay, I'm done.
No wait.. .One more, for instrumentation guys: Fluke 4-20mA Clamp on... LOVE IT
Okay, I'm really, REALLY Done
Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET300-Electrical-Standard/dp/B003LHJSY8/
You plug the little part into a socket then take the wand to the breaker box. It transmits a signal across the power lines that the wand picks up. You dial the sensitivity up and down until you have only one breaker that it beeps over and boom that's the one! Very handy if you do your own electrical work.
Anything that costs less than a thousand bucks probably isn't going to be doing anything for you. I know some people report improvements when upgrading with some of the cheaper Furman stuff, but that could be the result of weird ground loops from daisy-chaining power strips or just defective strips in general.
Based on what I've seen from teardowns of them, it just looks like they have filter chokes for each outlet, which act as sort of a low-pass filter for AC. Theoretically, if you have "line noise" from something like a malfunctioning neon or florescence light or a large AC motor you can filter some of it out. But even low-end power supplies these days tend to have filtering like this, so it just seems redundant.
Your money would likely be better spent on 1) An Outlet Tester 2) An electrician to make sure your house is appropriately grounded. Surge protectors won't save you from a bad or inadequate ground during a lightening strike. Make sure its grounded at the meter, usually to a copper tube in the ground and from your box via something conected to the water pipe; there should be a jumper-wire across your water meter.
If the outlet isn't functioning, replace it first with a standard outlet, then grab one of these and test whether the existing circuit is GFCI protected. If not, throw a GFCI outlet in it's place.
If you want GFCI protection with USB plugs, you could add a GFCI breaker, or GFCI outlet upstream then put a standard outlet with USB plugs.
Do you have an outlet tester? If everything is wired downstream of your existing GFCI, test each outlet to see if they trip it.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Bastex-Tester-Receptacle-Indications-Electric/dp/B071FVB35Q/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35T611M6KRV5J&keywords=outlet+tester+combo&qid=1551380509&s=gateway&sprefix=outlet+tester+%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
get a ground tester https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0
start testing outlets to see if its just one outlet or a entire circuit
in a short term you can attach a wire to one of the screws on the case and connect it to a good ground source such as copper plumbing
Wall tester
Plug strip with ground fault led
A company that delivers packages.
Has fuck-all to do with networking...
(kidding)
A UPS has a battery that is constantly being recharged. You plug your computer into the UPS. The computer gets its power from the battery.
Think of a bucket. At the to of the bucket you are pouring water in very fast. At the bottom of the bucket is a hole that doesn't allow the water to leave faster then it is being added.
Not only will the bucket always be full - but if there are problems with the rate the water comes into the bucket (what you are calling dirty electricity) it does not effect how fast the water comes out the hole.
While you are at the store buying the UPS, buy yourself a device to check grounding in your electrical outlets.
http://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1419779475&sr=1-5&keywords=ground+tester
An ungrounded outlet can cause all kinds of havok.
------------
Microwave is line of site.
Check that nothing - no leaves, no trees, no nothing is blocking the path of the antenna.
Also, look for damage to the antenna, is there any evidence that something is occuring to knock it out of alignment (maybe heavy winds shake it on its post)?
-----------
Use Wireshark to check for collisions on the network.
-----------
Interference, interference, interference.
Shitty electrical lines inside the walls. Flourescent lighting. Microwaves. Cordless phones. All these things interfere with the 2.4 ghz spectrum.
Think HARD about this.
Do you have a LAN cable running near a flourescent light? MOVE IT. LAN cables (Cat 5, Cat6, etc) are unshielded and open to electrical interference.
-------------------
Internet speeds slow down until I restart my router:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1812209/internet-speeds-slow-restart-router.html
Yeah it's inevitable that people new to wiring will be worried about damaging solid core, once it's compared to stranded. But context is important.
I've run a bunch of solid core through my old house with a bunch of funky bends and turns and haven't even come close to damaging any. If you want some piece of mind, get an LAN cable tester (you should get one anyway, they're dirt cheap) and hook it up to a short piece of spare cable. Then see what it takes to make it fail. I think you'll find it takes quite a bit of repeated abuse and you'll be more confident.
Good luck!
Wait nevermind I think this is what I need. Question is will it work over a 6" to 1ft distance ?
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Circuit-Tester-RJ-11-Alligator/dp/B00ADHQCIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480357337&sr=8-2&keywords=signal+tracer+kit
Sounds like from the comments it might not work from that distance.
A couple of ways. They make an inexpensive outlets tester (6-8 bucks) that tests the outlet.
GFCI tester
Or you can take a multimeter and read from neutral to ground using resistance and it should be in a low ohm range. Like 10 or less as the neutral and ground are bonded at your service. If it's not reading low and reading open, the neutral is open on that branch circuit somewhere between that outlet box and the service.
I think he's referring to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-ST-102B-Socket-Tester-GFCI/dp/B008E07HM2
That would likely show which socket has an open ground on it.
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Receptacle-Outlet-Ground-Tester/dp/B0012DHVQ0?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0012DHVQ0 (that is a non-referral link, i'm not making money on it)
Ground issue. Please unplug your PC from the wall and run a longer extension cord from a grounded outlet. You can verify all outlets in your house with a simple outlet tester.
Here is one for 9 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4dBWDbDGMKGSS
Diagnose the situation first either with an electrician, or yourself ONLY IF YOU COMFORTABLE WITH THE DANGERS. The fix can be anything from the ground needing to be terminated, or the ground is just straight up not there and a new ground needing to be ran.
http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29910.aspx
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx
Both of those are a little cheaper on tooltopia and you don't have to pay tax (or at least, I don't, idk what the rules are for who does and doesn't) or shipping on orders over $75.
For long term use, I'd probably trust Astro Pneumatic's brand name over Ztech. I've always had great luck from AP tools, and they have an identical looking kit for $9 more on Amazon. Many years ago, I bought a cheap (holy crap, just looked it up and I paid almost $50 for that shipped) piston kit from ebay, it lasted about a year. The pin on the main plate sheared off. But that was a long time ago, maybe they're cheaper and better now?
Something to keep in mind with that inner tie rod tool, it doesn't have a lifetime warranty, and the mechanism will break at some point, and it's $52 for the replacement part. I have one, but I rarely use it. It's usually easier to just turn the wheel all the way and use some Knipex Cobra pliers.
I do most of my tool shopping between Amazon, Tooltopia, and eBay anymore. Between the three, you can usually find a pretty good deal.
I certainly trust OTC tools, I've never really had any problems and have a lot of them (and a lot of them that are rebranded as Mac/Matco/Cornwell).
These are the spring compressors I have, only problem I've had is that the little nub on the pin that prevents flying parts if it slips? That thing sometimes is too large to fit over the spring.
I have a Mac EM710 multimeter, and a Fluke 77 IV also. I like the Fluke better because the Mac turns on in AC for whatever freaking reason (srsly, it's a multimeter primarily marketed at auto techs working exclusively with DC, made by a company that almost exclusively sells to auto techs, but the damn thing turns on in AC every single time. wtf.), but I like the Mac better because the body is more square so it'll sit on it's side easier.
Power Probe's are also super duper handy, you can quickly check if something has power and ground without having to change the other end of your test light, and you can quickly apply power to check if a component is functioning. And they're super cheap on Amazon these days. That makes me sad, I paid like $200 for my PP3!
Buy one of these. It will pay for itself the first year you use it.
http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK
It seems like a crap money-grubbing scam, but it really works and will save you from buying new strings and bulbs every year. It's amazing.
Get an Outlet Tester, it'll tell you what is jacked with the outlet.
If the outlet is good, there will be a place on the back of the DW where the wires connect. Make sure the correct wires are in the correct spot and that it's properly grounded.
Source: just some dude.
Maybe this? Looks good to me but this is DIY, not /r/AskAnElectrician
And if it's really killing you, sometimes throwing $10 bucks at it is worth the price.
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Multi-functional-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B01EA8P1OM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480979817&sr=8-3&keywords=lan+tester
You can get one of these to check all the outlets in your house to see which are protected by GFCI.
Not exactly REQUIRED, I didn't solder anything on my first 100w cob experiment and ran it for several weeks when I was trying to figure everything out.
I first plugged in a 2.1mm X 5.5mm plug into my laptop charger, then stuck two wires in it and screwed it down. - terminal ends!
Stick the other end of those two wires into the buck converter inputs. Then Stick two more wires into the buck converter outputs.
Then I got two alligator clips and connected one end of them to one of the buck converter outputs. Then I clamped the gator clips onto the led. Gator Clips!
This is not recommended at all for long term or a permanent build. But it is a great way to become friendly with LEDs and electronics and help build your skill while you become more comfortable.
I would advise learning how to solder, in this case its REALLY easy because we are not soldering on a board or anywhere that requires precision. I just wrapped all the wires together, stuck some solder and heat to it. Then sealed it off with shrink wrap and tape.
I always carry around one of these in my tool bag. Nifty gadgets really. Either way good find on the bad outlet.
Bought me one of these a few years ago, works like a charm. It repairs those faulty sockets with a click of the trigger.
http://www.amazon.com/Keeper-01201-Complete-Fixing-Miniature/dp/B000R8KBOK
We would have thrown out our older artificial tree due to dead strands years ago if not for this thing.
Makes fixing the strands infinitely less tedious than the old "check every single bulb one at a time" plan.
I would start by picking up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKX8L0M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WN93DbKD4XSXV
And possibly a socket to Edison adapter and a ground lift and make sure hot neutral aren't reversed.
I would start there. I know as a kid playing with solder in LEDs you had to make sure positive and negative were aligned correctly or it would illuminate. But that was in DC, and your house is AC... So I don't know if reversed hot/nuteral would matter, but that is where I would start.
Also, are they dimmer switches and are the bulbs dimmable?
Edit: if you're going to do DIY electrical work, be careful. It's pretty simple, but has the potential to really hurt you. Pick up a non contact voltage tester. Turn off circuits at the service panel. Watch some You Tube videos on how to splice, if you're really high speed read some of the electrical code... And if you feel out of your depth, hiring a pro. Changing outlets, plugs sockets, switches and fixtures is fairly simple and just matching colors. Messing with three way and four way switches gets a bit more complex
Everyone who has spoke on the power conditioners and said the expensive ones are hoo-ha are pretty much right. They're generally overkill.
Right up until they save your gear from roasting. Or warn you of low voltage coming from the walls. You might also get one of these. I can't tell you how many times I've found open ground in various venues. Even one or two reversed hots. It's well worth the investment.
I purchased one of these after getting my house and it's been quite useful:
Extech CB10 Circuit Breaker Finder locates fuses/breakers, tests receptacles and GFCI circuits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014FNWJG/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_0StmybBJFGQZB
Edit: it's sensitive enough to trace wires through drywall too. This is quite useful to me as I have electrical in my crawlspace and attic.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050LVFS0 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIU
I bought a wire tracer at Amazon for about 25 bucks and used it to trace a sprinkler wire. I was able to trace the wire all around the house (about 150 ft.)
Doorbell wires will typically run from the button to the attic and be easily traceable there (yeah, there will be insulation). They're typically twisted pair, solid wire and your doorbell unit typically uses a 24VAC power source.
Frankly, if I had a problem, I'd just replace the whole bunch with a wireless doorbell.
You can do a simple test using a GFCI Tester
I ended up buying this : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LZTKIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Because the one I linked was a add on item which I couldn't buy unless I had $25 worth of stuff in my cart
Also spring for an electrical outlet tester from Amazon and plug it into every outlet. Even if they're 3-prong it doesn't mean they're grounded (a problem that doesn't necessarily need fixing). A full-house rewire can be five figures.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012DHVQ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a test plug like this, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AKX8L0M/ref=psdcmw_14244461_t1_B0012DHVQ0
You can check all the outlets. If there are junction boxes in your attic if you have one, you can check for loose connections if you can identify the circuits. Make sure your breaker is off and you have a hot stick before messing with anything even if your outlets are not working, you really don't want to hurt yourself from inexperience. If you can't find anything yourself, it's up to you if you want to call an electrician.
Price wise, our shop does 120USD an hour plus drive cost and material cost. Not sure about local prices where you are at. I would say it would be a minimum of one hour if it's a silly fix or up to 3 to 5 hours to run wire depending on how far the run is and how crammed the panel is. Hard to tell not being there but I wish you much luck and hope it's a very easy and inexpensive fix for ya!
I have this cheap knockoff of better tracers that cost much more. I've only used it a tiny bit, it worked good not great. For $25 it was worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHQCIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The ground at the plug is not necessary for solar.
To test the plugs that have a ground get Electrical Receptacle Ground Tester they are about $6-7.
> Ok, fuses next. All clear
Get a 12V test light, like this.
Get a copy of your bike's wiring diagram. If you don't have a workshop manual yet, this is a good excuse.
Hook the ground clip end to the engine case near where the negative battery cable connects. Start by probing the positive battery terminal. Then work your way toward the ignition switch, touching both sides of every component/connector until you find the point where it doesn't light up.
I'm guessing you won't have to go far, because it sounds like the main fuse.
Extra string of lights is a great tip. Also consider one of these light repair guns!
Light Keeper PRO 01201 The Complete Tool for Fixing Miniature Light Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8KBOK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EohAbZQ5ZA8S
I only bought it because it was so cheap. I thought if it didn't work very well I was only out a few bucks so what the hey. Boy was I wrong! This thing has fixed my strands so many times it has payed for itself 10 times over!
Happy Holidays everyone!
In America. Complete amateur.
Background: I've wired off the back of this circuit before. It's got three outlets on it so I ran a new string of two more outlets behind it.
Now: Remodeling kitchen, shut off the same circuit I did before, tested the outlet with:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00170KUPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pqcKDbYM29YQ9
And no lights came on in either outlet and nothing worked further down the circuit so i thought I was good. Went to the second outlet on the circuit and began taking it apart. Got the outlet pulled away from the box to see the mess you see in the photo. Question 1, isn't that wrong? The old owner twisted the incoming and outgoing wires together, then ran one of them long to hook around the terminal. I've never seen any videos telling me to do it that way..
But anyway, I loosened the terminals and pulled off the wires all was good. Set the outlet aside. But because he twisted everything together inside the box like that, I decided it would be easier for me to just cut the cable off above and below the box and just pull them through.
Went to cut the black wire and heard a pop and spark and noped the fuck outta there and haven't touched it since. Any help on all or some of the below questions would be helpful and much appreciated.
A) Does it still have power? Why?
B) Do I need an electrician?
C) How close did I come to killing myself? Really.
D) Why was it ok for me to touch the outlet, pull off the wires, touch them, etc. But when I went to cut the black one I suddenly get action?
As much as possible, ELI5, I'm an amateur but really want to learn. I will Google everything, give me articles if needed.. Fascinated by all of this and don't wanna die. Thanks in advance.
My guess is something is mis-wired. It's easy to wire an outlet 'backwards'. Do you have one of these doo-dads? Worth every penny.
to find the right circuit for your outlet you can use one of these and also run a test
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-CB10-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B0014FNWJG
if you can't perform the test or if you have no continuity between the outlet and the circuit breaker box..
turn your main breaker off and open the outlet and look for any signs of burning on the connections of the outlet.. use an ohm meter and test from the outlet where the plug inserts to the screw where the wire attaches on the back
I would also just replace one of the outlets and see if it works.
also remember that just because an outlet is listed on a specific circuit at the circuit breaker doesn't mean it is actually on that circuit. I have seen home runs that were installed for eletronics or window air conditioners labeled as home runs with nothing else on the circuit only to find other outlets in the house on that same circuit.
This is a start and not the full diagnosis .. you would need to find out why the circuit is not working .. what other outlets or items are on that circuit
could be as simple as someone using a plugin bush trimmer and cutting the cord and then burning out the outlet.. I have done that myself...
anyway be careful about it.
Yea they are safe. You could test it with this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008E07HM2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478650957&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ground+tester&dpPl=1&dpID=41PpLbTKJ1L&ref=plSrch to see if it is actually grounded. Pretty safe tho.