(Part 3) Best usb network adapters according to redditors
We found 3,607 Reddit comments discussing the best usb network adapters. We ranked the 525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236049
I was able to find a picture with the monitor hooked up (I was happy I was going to have surround). http://imgur.com/84iDIRM -- it is the monitor on top of the multiport video switch. And yes, I know that's a pretty half-assed setup I had going on there :D
Edit:
Found more items--
Please PM me if you're interested (or not interested). I'm only asking for shipping money because I'm broke at this point. Just had to get roof replaced at house, 2 doors warped and needed to be replaced, paid for my daughter's tuition next year last month at school; before that scheduled a vacation. We are leaving Wednesday morning but I will ship to you with tracking number either tomorrow or Tuesday. If you don't see this time, I can do it after we come back. Which will be 6/10/2013.
I'm not asking for anything in return, seriously. I lost everything except for my car, three days of clothes and my Playstation 2 (and a couple of games) from Hurricane Katrina. I know what it's like to lose everything. These parts aren't the greatest in the world but with the other parts mentioned, it should be able to help out while you get everything up and going again.
Edit #2
Thank you to whoever gave me reddit gold! That was really legit! :)
Alright so 16ish total. No ethernet is a pretty easy problem to solve http://www.amazon.com/Smays-Micro-USB-Ethernet-Computer-Notebook/dp/B009XU6N54
I use this adapter
with something like this replacing the antennae. I can connect to networks that far away, but at extreme range (although the "signal bar" remains high), the speed drops off significantly. It's very good for me because my router is in the basement of my somewhat large house.
Sure: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L32UUJK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01
It also powers the Pi! I accidentally unplugged the Pi and it kept working. Took me a minute or two to figure out was going on. Also networking. Also dirt cheap. (However 3x the cost of the Pi).
Ethernet to USB adapters exist and are fairly cheap.
I use one for online games and it probably isn't as good as direct Ethernet but it's way more stable than WiFi is.
And as for when you were home, your home WiFi network presumably had fewer people connecting to it, so more bandwidth was available to you and your lowest connection speed was good enough.
wireless usb adapter. or Wireless card. Maybe you can get one cheap, like: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Wireless-Network-External-OS10-6-10-13/dp/B019SRBUNG
Also, you can setup your phone as a wireless card:
https://www.letsgeek.net/2012/07/how-to-turn-your-android-phone-into-wireless-usb-adapter/
Smays 5-Pin Micro-USB to RJ45 Ethernet Network Adapter for Android Tablet Computer / PC / Notebook with 3-Port USB HUB and 3.5mm DC Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L32UUJK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_RsgxxbYG0FDZ9 Personally, I used this. Has external power and micro USB connection so no OTG adapter is necessary. Ethernet also just in case, I used it for Pi Hole.
I have excellent experience with WIFI adapters.
I started using them back since early 2000's when WIFI wasn't even a big thing yet.
My professional advice would be don't be hard set on "Brands" (meaning don't buy a WIFI adapter because it's Linksys, Netgear, or whatever), this most important thing about a WIFI adapter is the "CHIPSET" manufacturer.
What you are looking for is a reliable chipset manufacturer (what's inside the wifi adapter) and not the outside branding.
These are my suggestions:
In that order. Find a wireless adapter with any of those built in chipsets and you will have a reliable, stable and fast connection no matter what.
Fun Fact: I used to do lots of wireless auditing and needed a wifi adapter with "mode monitor" support.
(Yes, WEP cracking and WPA cracking if you are looking to audit your own security).
One of my recommendations would be something like this which is what I still been using for years (USB for hooking up to desktop or laptop).
Alfa AWUS036NHR or this one too.
Ignore the information on the column that says "windows not supported" on the aircrack page. That's just for the airodump/aircrack support, not the device itself.
I checked basically everything about this myself on Switch's launch day. Here's a thread with the details: https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/5x948s/answering_your_questions_about_usb_typec/
To answer your questions:
Switch does not and almost definitely will not ever support third-party USB Bluetooth adapters. It currently doesn't seem to support any USB audio devices either. If you want to use a bluetooth headset, either wait for a system update to add support or stick to a 3.5mm headphone jack transmitter.
If you have a gfx card with a virtual link usb type c, you can use the USB c extension, works perfectly with my samsung odyssey, RTX 2070 https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P
I think the problem might be the ethernet adapter. I don't have that adapter, but it looks like the USB 2.0 version doesn't work with the Switch; you want the USB 3.0 version.
EDIT: Yeah, I definitely think it's your adapter. Look at all the reviews that mention the Switch on the USB 2.0 version versus the USB 3.0 version
https://www.amazon.com/OURLINK-600Mbps-Wireless-Network-Computer/dp/B011T5IF06/
I would recommend a USB one instead because those can be moved up high like onto your desk which makes a huge difference than a PC adapter near the ground, possibly obstructed by your case which is made of metal and metal does not play nicely with RF signals.
This should be good, but it doesn't come with a dongle cable
Or maybe this
I have a Netgear brand one and it is really good. It's the ac1200 and it is great. It maxes out my internet connection at 140mbps. I have it behind my second monitor on my desk
2.4Ghz has more signal traffic then the 5Ghz. I think the big issue is the standard. I imagine that your 2.4 Ghz network is on 802.11g, but your 5Ghz is on 802.11n. 802.11n is MUCH faster. You're definitely going to see speeds increasing going between the two networks. I would recommend buying a usb dongle that supports N like this one. It's pretty cheap and would solve your issue.
Is your access point b/g or b/g/n?
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/USB-AC68-Dual-Band-AC1900-Adapter-Included/dp/B00FB45USW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498073545&sr=1-1&keywords=asus%2Bwifi%2Badapter&th=1
I tried a TP Link PCI-E card but that was no end of problems. Random disconnections, extremely slow speeds, etc. mostly because having the antennas at the back of the case messed with the signal strength significantly. Now though with this I get a good signal across the street (Think small one and a half lane road) from my neighbour's house! I have two routers, both crappy combo units. One is a floor down on the opposite site of my house (Which by American standards is large at ~5000 sq. ft) with 3 concrete walls in between. Still get two bars from that network. On my normal network I stream 4K movies from my NAS with no issues whatsoever. I have nothing but praise for this thing!
I couldn't cope with the withdrawal so I got this $13 dollar lan adapter from Amazon and it works like a charm DM me if you need any help setting up if you decide to get it.
Alternatively, if you're doing lots of small reads/writes you can stick with your class 4 cards and simply use NFS roots. In that case you'll be limited by the network adapter's speed, unless you get something like this and then you'll be limited to whatever the USB 2.0 has available.
Even if neither HDMI is hooked directly to the GPU, the VirtualLink port will be (according to Nvidia this is a thing with all RTX laptops) so you can use this adapter:
Accell USB-C VR Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LC4B43P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have a RTX20 series video card with the USB c port on it than this works very well.
Accell USB-C VR Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LC4B43P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujYQCbNY13Y71
If not then when you get your Vive the link box will work great. I have both and the usbc adapter in my 2070 gets me an 8 foot extension with no issues. The link box works just as well but I plan on getting rid of the Vive so I got the other connector to try.
You need a portable router to log into the hotel's wifi, and repeat it to your room. They likely have AP isolation on, so each device will not be able to see, (or communicate), with each other. You're basically going to need to set up a router to reroute the hotel's wifi on your own private network. it's the same principal as repeating a public access point for use in your house. These will work for your needs:
Alfa Network 1000mW High Power Wireless G 802.11g Wi-Fi USB Adapter with 5dBi Antenna AWUS036H: $29.99 + Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H:$79.99
Cheaper solution: TP-Link N300 Wireless Wi-Fi Nano Travel Router with Range Extender/Access Point/Client/Bridge Modes (TL-WR802N): $27.95
I recently researched this and found that the Alfa brand USB adapters are most commonly recommended due to good performance and support in Linux (also listed in the aircrack link by xaocon). Keep in mind though that some of the most recommended ones, like this popular one only supports b/g WiFi networks, so if you want to play with a n network you have to get an updated model. I have this one and it works well but doesn't pick up as many WiFi points as the first one linked..
Yes. ASUS has some really good USB 3.0 wifi adapters if you must use WiFi. Although I would recommend you switch to ethernet if you can.
Here is one I would recommend, https://www.amazon.com/Asus-USB-AC56-Dual-band-Wireless-AC1300-Adapter/dp/B00FB45USW/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1509637086&sr=8-9&keywords=asus+wifi
Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/
All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)
If the old adapters work then any off the shelf adapter with that specific chipset should work. The original official Nintendo adapter used a basic off the shelf chipset that is used by many manufacturers for computers and other devices.
I used this on my Wii and Wii U without issue. https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific-TU3-ETG/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/
The Wii LAN adapter is a USB2 10/100 Fast-Ethernet LAN adapter using the ASIX AX88772 chipset. The AX88772 is a fairly widely used chip, and thus available in many third party adapters, all of which are compatible with the Wii / Wii U. Many of these adapters even advertise as being compatible with the Wii or Wii U, and all this means is that use the AX88772. These adapters will also work with the Switch, but will still be limited by 10/100 USB2 speeds , which in practice are slower then 802.11ac (the latest WiFi standard), so using a USB2 LAN adapter isn't a great option.
The official Switch LAN adapter by HORI is USB3 10/100/1000 gigabit LAN adapter using the ASIX AX88179.
TL;DR: The Nintendo Switch is compatible with USB3 Gigabit LAN adapters that use the AX88179 chipset. These will support much higher bandwidth, and will have lower latency than a USB2 10/100 adapter (such as the Wii U LAN adapter). The following adapters should all work:
Pluggable
Startech
Diamond
TRENDnet
UGREEN
It'd work but that adapter has a lot of bad reviews on Amazon. I'd suggest a more expensive (but properly working) adapter like this if you want extra (powered) USB ports, this if you don't need full-size USB ports, or this if you want a HAT instead.
I have both the Pi3 and the Zero. The Zero cost me $15, then bought a Smays Micro USB Ethernet with 3 Port Hub for $10. Saved only $10, but Pihole doesn't need the extra power of the Pi3 (seems like a waste). But it could be a cleaner setup. Good thing is, with the hub, I have it powered by the USB port on my router
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L32UUJK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You didn't mention specifics so I assume this is a laptop running a version of Windows? I saw comments mentioning routing via the router you're connecting to wirelessly. One way to take care of this issue is simply to be connected to both WiFi networks at once via 2 wireless cards on your laptop and prioritizing the client's default route in one WiFi card over the other.
Depending on your laptop model, it may have an extra miniPCIe or M.2 slot inside that can take an additional WiFi card. Many Dell laptops have an extra one. If that's not the case with your laptop then there are cheap and tiny USB wifi dongles which you can stick one into your laptop as the second WiFi card. Here's an example of one. Plug that in, install drivers as needed, and have your primary WiFi card connect to your main wireless network, and have the USB WiFi connect to your backup wireless network. You can then have these both connected to different wireless networks at the same time.
The next step is setting the routing metric for each device. Windows typically does this automatically - for example if your computer is connected to WiFi as well as connected via wired LAN, it will automatically use the wired LAN connection as the default network route since it's typically faster when you try to access something on the internet, or anything outside of the local network. With 2 WiFi cards I recommend manually setting this up. Here's the link from microsoft.com explaining how it works. Down on the bottom ( where it says "To configure the Automatic Metric feature:") it explains how to go into network settings for the network device and uncheck the "Automatic metric" checkbox and set a number for the device. The lower the number is, the higher the priority. If you decide to do this, I would recommend also setting this for your wired LAN card to make sure it is at the top of the priority regardless if it's in use or not. Since you're manually controlling these settings instead of letting Windows decide, you should cover every device.
Example: set Wired Ethernet's metric to 5, set primary WiFi card's metric to 10, set secondary WiFi card's metric to 15
Now, when you're running Windows, both wireless cards will be connected to different wireless networks at the same time, which (from what I understand as you explained it) are two separate internet connections. It will use your primary WiFi card's internet connection by default instead of your secondary WiFi card's internet connection when you try to access the internet. When that disconnects, Windows will then use your secondary WiFi (usb, if that's what you end up using) as the internet connection instead. When your primary WiFi reconnects it should switch back to that for its internet access as it was doing before the disconnect.
This one is cheap and works well.
https://www.amazon.com/OURLiNK-600Mbps-Wireless-Network-Computer/dp/B011T5IF06
I have the same MacBook Pro and recently my wifi started flaking out (it would only work for a few minutes and stop). For the most part it's fine, as I use Ethernet at work and home. But if I bring it somewhere else, it's frustrating. So I just bought a USB Wifi dongle, it's not super elegant, but it's inexpensive and it worked.
Well, you can find external wifi adapters that are very small and under 20 $.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K088UC/
So why don't you go ahead and buy one. You can return it after a few days if you are not satisfied with the signal. But you should anyway read first about the signal range of a few before deciding which one to buy.
Here's a list of some adapters, including the one I linked: https://www.lifewire.com/top-wi-fi-usb-adapters-2377825
Here's a short article about how to choose an adapter for your laptop https://www.howtogeek.com/243330/how-to-choose-a-usb-wi-fi-adapter-for-your-laptop/
I was just looking for a wireless AC adapter for my HTPC, but is this thing really much better than a little USB dongle?
I assume wired is not an option.
You can get a USB wireless adapter. This should allow what you want and not require opening the case.
Here is an example.
Wifi Adapter AC600 Usb Wireless Adapter 2.4GHz/5.8GHz Dual Band wifi usb with External Antenna for Win 10/8.1/8/7/XP/Vista/Mac OS10.6-10.12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019SRBUNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H89tyb17ZX3ZG
Inconsistent wifi is the bane of the Surface experience. I suggest getting yourself a good USB adapter to use as a backup and troubleshooting aid. The best twenty bucks I ever spent was on this…
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/
Plug it in and instantly cleared up the issues I was having.
It doesn’t support 4K 60hz, posting lists only 4k30hz so it won’t have the bandwidth needed for the headset.
This adapter would work: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P
Return those extension cables and buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P/
Plug the USB-C end into your graphics card and the regular headset cable into the HDMI and USB.
A one time purchase of $21.99 makes internet free for most people that live near civilization.
They're relatively expensive and are slower than most usb dongles (as it's wireless G), but an Alfa USB wireless card such as this one would work wonders.
And if you ever change your mind about using an RPi as a router you can always use the dongle for packet capture or a wireless bridge or a portable NAS with its own WLAN or for creating a wirelessly controlled drone that can fly around and hack into other drones and take them over. Lots of stuff you can do with it.
Im sorry to say, most netgear wifi cards are absolutely not gonna work on linux, I mean you could use ndiswrapper but its a complete pain in the ass if it doesnt work immediately. I would get one of these, I got one 4-5 years ago and still use it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000WXSO76/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479015363&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=alfa+awus036h
It works out of the box on linux, and comes with a disk with install firmware and software for every OS that is compatable with it as well. Plus the range is amazing. I can pick up a signal from a regular suddenlink router/modem combo from the length of about 2 trailers.
I've had the best luck with Alfa adapters. I currently have 3 of these: http://www.amazon.com/High-Gain-Long-Rang-Alfa-9dBi-Mount/dp/B0038Q4AIG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416321127&sr=8-3&keywords=alfa+awus036nh
Might be a good opportunity to build and test a DIY high gain directional antenna like a cantenna or yagi. Lots of geek cred and also one of the least expensive options. You can do this on both ends, effectively making a wifi tunnel:
Cantenna: http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Cantenna
Super Antenna: http://www.instructables.com/id/10--WIFI-16dBi-Super-Antenna-Pictorial/
Yagi Antenna: https://www.amazon.com/Blackzebra-External-Wireless-Extender-Directional/dp/B00KL6X9M4/
20 dBi Antenna: https://www.amazon.com/KW-3016N-Outdoor-Wireless-Adapter-Antenna/dp/B019Z28CE4/
Another option is high powered (400-2000mW) wifi adapters. Alfa, Ubiquiti, Amped, ASUS, and other companies make them:
Alfa 2000mW adapter (I own this): https://www.amazon.com/High-Gain-Long-Rang-Alfa-9dBi-Mount/dp/B0038Q4AIG/
Amped High-power PCIE adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Amped-Wireless-PCI20E-AC1200-Adapter/dp/B00I9AS1JA/
The best paid option in my opinion is a pair of Nanostations from Ubiquiti setup in bridge mode
Edit: I think you are looking for an inexpensive option, so I would check out the DIY options above
After reading this last week I had a go at doing it myself. I bought one of these bad boys, plugged it into my laptop, set up a monitor device like so:
sudo iw wlan1 interface add wlan1mon type monitor
Then listen for wifi clients like so:
sudo tshark -i wlan1mon subtype probereq
I can see the neighbours coming home, people turning their laptops on etc. The best bit is that old iPhones leak loads of info by broadcasting saved ESSIDs, I can see three locations where the girl next door has been on holiday and via a reverse SSID search I can see where one of her friends lives.
Consumer WiFi equipment should leak less information, it's too fucking chatty.
I would go with this external wireless antenna, I just finished a build and this thing has been giving me incredible range and speed: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BV4JXI/
Let me start by first saying that I have pretty much the same parts as you (CPU, cooler, mobo, SSD, GPU) and they're a great combo!
Although I don't have any brand experience, I can tell you that the thing you are looking for is called a "dual-band USB dongle". It will allow you to pick up on networks in the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands.
Here is an example I am only listing as the first thing that came up on Google, may not be the best.
I've used the TP-link Wireless Adapter before and it's been pretty reliable and cheap. Lasted me through two different builds before I decided to upgrade. I linked the usb version but they have a PCIe version as well.
If you have a nicer router with features like dual band, AC, etc. then consider saving up for a nicer high end wireless adapter to take advantage of higher speeds. I'm currently using the Asus USB N53 and it's been reliable too.
It could be that you're buying $10 adapters. I'm not a wireless professional but most decent adapters generally are a little more. If you live in an apartment or anywhere with multiple other connections available you will need at least a half decent one. Here's the one I replaced mine with, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SAKW9G/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's also worth noting that I still don't get a consistent connection on the 2.4 band, but I know that is because there are over 20 networks in range interfering with my connection. I use the 5g band and have no issues besides it having relatively low range, maintains a 2ms ping though which was the important thing for me, in the 2.4 band it was jumping between like 15ms and 500ms randomly due to the interference.
I have this problem as well. It would seem most WIFI adapters/chips have this issue. torguard customer service said it had to do with encryption, but i had no luck disabling encryption just as a test. I had really good luck with this wifi adapter not dropping speed, but I had one burn out, and sometimes it has the windows plug/unplug problem, I have to uninstall drivers and reboot. But despite all that it can download much faster than a newer 5ghz model. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Network-Adapter-Antenna/dp/B006JWMOOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468127662&sr=8-1&keywords=etekcity+wifi
$1500 invested. Shipping is up to you. I will ship however you want to pay. I will wipe the HD, so you will need to purchase Windows OS or better yet install Linux for FREE. 5x 750 Ti OC edition. 4-Gigabyte 1-EVGA. They are pulling 1200K/h+ without OC. You can OC them. I will accept doge, lite, bit, etc. as payment.
I tried to put together a part list below. PCPartPicker would only let me select 1 GPU and there are other parts that I purchased at other places that PCPartPicker does not carry.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Motherboard | ASRock H81 Pro BTC ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $36.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB WINDFORCE Video Card | $155.38 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair 760W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $169.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $482.34
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-25 21:53 EDT-0400 |
Video Cards: Gigabyte above x4. 1 EVGA 02G-P4-3753-KR GeForce GTX 750 Ti Superclocked 2GB + shipping. 5 GPUs total.
Network Adapter: Etekcity High Power 802.11 B/N/G 300M USB Wireless 1000mw Wifi Network Adapter with Dual Antenna
Shelf: Seville Classics 3 Shelf, 17-1/2-Inch by 7-1/2-Inch by 18-1/2-Inch Cabinet Organizer
Electricity Monitoring: ALEKO® Electricity Usage Monitor, Power Meter
Getting a better adapter, really.. this is fairly cheap, but my bro has one and he picks up signals all around his neighborhood. Doesn't support 5 ghz bandwidth though.
I myself use an alfa brand adapter, with a 7 dbi square antenna that also picks up excellent signals from all over. So my signal is naturally also excellent. Albeit cost is a bit higher.. (like double that other one)
Just wanted to give a heads up that it was that my previous usb wireless adapter was not efficient enough. I purchased this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and now my internet is fast and ready to roll. Thanks for all your help to begin with!
I'm not sure if this would work, but if you want to use your phone, you could get a non-wifi router (or disable the wifi), and use a phone ethernet adapter.
Like this for micro-usb: https://smile.amazon.com/Smays-Ethernet-compatible-Raspbian-Raspberry/dp/B009XU6N54
I think for iPhone, you'd need a lightning-to-USB adapter, then a USB-to-ethernet adapter as well.
 
Edit: When you say there "won't be WiFi", do you mean you're not allowed to have a wireless router? If you're going to set up a hotspot, you may as well just buy a wifi router and set it up as your own little local "network". It doesn't have to be connected to the internet, and I don't believe hue requires an internet connection.
Also, does a micro-USB to ethernet adapter like this one work?
I use this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L32UUJK/
But I am sure this one would also work without the USB hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XU6N54/
Your best bet is either an acoustic coupler for dialing into bulletin boards and the like, or a microUSB to Ethernet adapter to hard-tether the phone to the computer, although you'd probably have to hunt for software if you wanna do connection sharing instead of just file transfer.
This one works on Arch but ac doesn't work(5g N does). I got it because of ac and usb3 and the antenna but I cant use two of those. :(
Three options.
the first/PCIe one is the cleanest as the device will live in the computer and make the desktop act like a laptop in respect to how wireless networks function.
The second/USB one is pretty much the same but will have less performance due to antenna diversity and the USB interface.
The third/router is probably the most ideal as it will allow the computer to continue using the onboard ethernet, and give you additional ports to plug other things into. It does have the complexity of having to switch the router into bridge/client mode, but that isn't very hard.
As of now the OnHub/GF equipment doesn't interop directly. They are separate business units, and operate independently. It's possible they will integrate in the future but as of now they are on distinct paths from each other.
I have this one. It works great. It's not plug and play though. You need to grab the driver/wifi utility from ASUS for it to work but setup was fast and easy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB45USW
I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRENDnet-TU3-ETG-Gigabit-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491087062&sr=8-1&keywords=trendnet+tu3-etg
Had it a few weeks now, plug and play, no issues at all and much faster than either onboard WiFi/Ethernet.
I mainly purchased this to stream my PC games via moonlight to my living room TV, using this adaptor I've been able to increase streaming quality several times.
Good for around 350mbps.
I use https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific-TU3-ETG/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/
​
Other than an odd driver issue, where I had to use another manufacturers driver (that uses the same chip set) its been rock solid for me for 2+ years.
I was on the fence, but I bought this one. Doing my part!
well it say ky-realtech, but but buyer beware.. just because it says that brand it may not be.
for my pi zero I bought a small powered USB hub that included a network port. I could even power the zero from the hub. (might not be a great idea)
Smays 5-Pin Micro-USB to RJ45 Ethernet Network Adapter for Android Tablet Computer / PC / Notebook with 3-Port USB HUB and 3.5mm DC Port
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L32UUJK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
it was like $14 but saved me a lot of hassles.
https://www.howtogeek.com/142044/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-an-always-on-bittorrent-box/
https://www.amazon.com/Smays-Ethernet-compatible-Raspbian-Raspberry/dp/B00L32UUJK/ref=sr_1_1
mini hdmi to hdmi cable
I have this one, because it also has ethernet, and works perfectly.
I did notice there is a warning on raspberrypi.org about hubs "backfeeding" from the hub, and it could fry your pi. The SMAYS one I have will power the pi through the USB, so thinking of modding it to put a diode in-line to block power going back into the pi.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L32UUJK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
This is the one I have. I can also use this to plug in my 360 controller receiver, so it's pretty useful.
It's a lot of things - but your internet is likely a component. The poor netcode quality of nintendo's first party games (and I love smash but it's worse than 90s era netcode) and the poor quality of the networking, and especially the wifi chip itself all go together with what might otherwise be a good enough network for online play.
Job number one is to go wired if you are playing docked. The adapters are cheap and you do not need a nintendo official one - this one will work just dandy.
Wireless inherently loses packets and isn't perfect and is higher latency than wired. If you can go wired at all, do it. If you want to go further, with typical home network infrastructure your best bet to reduce as much routing/fuckery as possible is to give your switch a static IP and then in your router set it as the DMZ - this will allow it to communicate directly to the internet, remove the need to ever forward ports and remove all routing components entirely - it's about as direct a connection as you can get, and most consumer routers support this. If you are using a "router" or all in one/gateway unit your ISP provided, knock that off. Ask them to put it in bridge mode and hook up your own router. I used a cheap ASUS router for a very long time and it worked just great - and lets you have a ton of control over your network. This often isn't possible with ISP provided equipment.
My current network setup is much more complicated, including a couple thousand dollars of very high end enterprise-grade access points in a mesh network. It's incredibly high quality and I still don't game on wireless for anything competitive because wifi always adds some latency and some jitter/packet loss/inconsistency.
But even on the absolute best possible connection, connected to someone else with the best possible connection, you'll still have issues. Sometimes smash is shitty with a buddy of mine with a similar setup for no explicable reason. And it's p2p so the only remaining issue is either network fuckery with the switch/netcode itself, or fuckery with our local ISP, but testing doesn't reveal any issues when it's happening.
So the moral of the story - there is a lot you can do to improve it, but it'll never, ever be perfect. It sucks and there are a lot of reasons for it but it's still worth some effort to make it better if you game a lot - it'll help with everything, on other consoles and PC as well.
Ah I see
That might explain your inability to connect wirelessly though
Have you tried a WiFi repeater? Setting that up might also be an issue though if you have no access to the router
NETGEAR Mini N300 Mbps Wi-Fi Range Extender with External Antennas (Wi-Fi Booster) (EX2700-100UKS) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NIUHAG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XTQPBbS6QJDWC
From a quick search it doesn't look like wifi sense does what you are describing http://www.windowsphone.com/en-gb/how-to/wp8/connectivity/use-wi-fi-sense-to-get-connected
Are you looking for a way to extend the range on your wifi? If so you'll need to get a wifi extender something like [http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00NIUHAG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457601499&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wifi+booster)[this]
If not I'm not sure what you're looking to do (or what the advantages are)
14 Days 18 Hours 24 Minutes 57 Seconds. Which is when I installed it.
Here's the specific model on Amazon, it's an Anker AK-A7610011
http://www.amazon.com/Network-Adapter-Anker-Ethernet-Supporting/dp/B00NOP70EC
A LAN adapter does wonders, Wireless communication is a half-duplex process (think of a one lane highway, where you have to wait for the other person going the opposite direction of you to go, before you can go) for ALL WIRELESS DEVICES ON YOUR ROUTER'S NETWORK. So EVERY device is using that one lane road, meaning that their is an increase in ping and dropped packets due to your device needing to wait before it can transmit.
A LAN adapter is full duplex (think of a normal two lane road) meaning that the waiting problem is fixed; along with the transmission problem, as the LAN adapter doesn't need to wait, as that road is specifically for your device only.
Any USB LAN adapter will work (I do recommend getting a USB 3 to LAN, as you'll get a better connection, due to USB 3 having better latency timings, and supporting more bandwidth)
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Supporting-Notebook/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541367603&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+3+lan+adapter+Anker
Its cheap, and works amazing! Plug it into the blue USB port on your switch (in the back where the power/HDMI port is, the blue port means its a USB 3)
I think I will be getting this one:
(https://www.amazon.com/Network-Adapter-Anker-Ethernet-Supporting/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1488324693&sr=8-2&keywords=USB+3.0+to+10%2F100%2F1000+Gigabit+Ethernet+Adapter)
Bro. Here's my setup:
https://bourgedesign.com/products/arc-hub
then add:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TlIw6xqtN8ByF
to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XMD7KPU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_3cVe3OX2LpqR8
this is for when Im on the road. At home I use my monitor as a hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2XRYB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T.NLzb2V2XBJ5
usb-c is great. I can hotswap my xps and rbs with one cable
I've been using this adapter from Anker $16.
It works plug and play with my Samsung Chromebook Plus (Linux kernel v4.4). Across both Chrome OS, Android apps, and Crostini.
It's using the Realtek 8153 chipset. Support for which is included in kernel versions 3.18+
EDIT: I just reread your post, you were looking for WiFi not ethernet... my bad 🙈
This is the answer.
The on-board tiny little WiFi with it tiny little antenna works, but it doesn't give much throughput. I have used something like this in the past. It really made a big difference in performance. This also looks interesting.
While the WiFi chip is your biggest bottleneck, the OS will slow you down some. There is too much going on in the background. Try a stripped down OS like DietPi, Minibian, or Raspbian Lite.
Realistically, as /u/bobstro said, just get a travel router.
I have the older version of this one. Worked great, I lived in a house with 6 other people with the router 2 walls away from me. Never had an issue with ping/lag. Mine only has 2.4Ghz but the newer one has 5.0GHz as well. I also lent it to a friend who didn't have ethernet for a while and for whatever reason his onboard wifi couldn't pickup his home wifi signal from his room but he managed to get it to work using this.
Yeap, such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQD235C/ref=twister_B01AXO6I5I?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I like the ones with the extended cable for antennas because the further away from the case it is the better the signal quality you'll get. Less interference from the components.
Not the proper chipset.
Ehternet adapters require a specific chipset to work with the switch. (The same chipsets used in the official adapters).
ASIX AX88772 for USB 2.0
ASIX AX88179 for USB 3.0
This USB-C Plugable adapter would work
OK. Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Compatible/dp/B011DDXGVC/
That wasn't so hard now was it?
I'm a little confused by your question. Wifi, cellular radios that use SIMs and ethernet are very different things. You're very likely not going to be able to reuse an internal wifi antenna for cellular.
​
Someone on this sub has already posted about using a cheap usb wifi card with a better antenna for much improved speeds:
https://www.reddit.com/r/GPDPocket/comments/8wmc7u/external_usb_wifi_is_much_faster_than_internal/
​
If you do need cell service, consider one of those wifi hotspots for whatever carrier you use.
​
And if you do need ethernet, usb 3.1 is very fast (5 or 10 Gbps) so a usb c dongle could probably handle all the throughput your house has without being a bottle neck.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Compatible/dp/B011DDXGVC
This one says it supports Switch handheld mode:
Plugable USB C to Ethernet Gigabit 10/100/1000 LAN Network Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset Compatible with Windows 10,8.1, 8, 7, OS X/macOS, Linux, Chrome OS, Switch Game Console)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B011DDXGVC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3HIHADV23VGU1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011DDXGVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works great for me on my Pixel. I am running Pure Nexus ROM with ElementalX kernel. No idea if that really matters or not.
The solution to your wifi issues is here: https://www.amazon.com/Glam-Hobby-600Mbps-Wireless-Computer/dp/B011T5IF06/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1472707880&sr=1-5&keywords=mini+wifi
As for getting info about the internal monitor, I'd head over to the TechInferno eGPU forum and ask there. You will get far better answers than on this subreddit. I, unfortunately, have no hands-on experience with getting the eGPU to work on the internal monitor, since I only use an external one. That said, I know that if you have an nVidia dGPU in the laptop and you have Optimus support, then getting an nVidia eGPU working on the internal monitor is possible. I am not sure what is the deal with AMD.
In addition to my previous comment, I would first try some troubleshooting with your existing router. Look into the following:
Also it is just as important to have good Wi-Fi receivers on the other end. Especially if you want ideal range and speed. If you use cheap receivers, you will get cheap results.
You probably should get a better network card. Your router support AC and dual band. You probably want to take advantage of 5GHz frequency. Also, check your wireless network traffic in your apartment. There's an app on your phone that will tell you how many traffic you have 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz around you. From there, you can choose which frequency or perhaps both.
You can get something cheap like this
Or something more expensive like this
There are cheap wireless AC adapter now. You can look around Amazon and probably find something suitable to your need and finance.
TP-Link Archer T1U Wireless Nano USB Adapter
Cheap, does 400 Mbps (more than enough for most situations.), and small enough that you can leave it plugged in without worrying about shearing it off.
AC does not require both. In fact, AC does not support 2.4 at all. AC devices may optionally support N on 2.4 but it is not required.
The only place I've seen this so far is in the "nano" style AC adapters. Most/all of them are 5 Ghz only. Everything else I've seen with AC has supported N on 2.4. I think at this point N on 2.4 costs almost nothing to support, so it is generally included even on cheap devices unless, like the nano adapters, there is simply no physical space to include it.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K088UC
Yeah, it's way harder to find the modded BIOS for newer models. It took days for me to find the one for my T400-- and it still didn't work. Have you considered something like this? TP-LINK Archer T1U Wireless AC450 Nano USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K088UC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_HIxPwbSSKARMX
Convenience of USB without anywhere near as much chance of knocking it off accidentally. Plus it's $20 and will save you hours of messing around with custom BIOS files and internal cards that may or may not work.
If you have WIFI available in the house you could source a cheap USB wifi adapter, for example this one at Amazon. There are plenty to choose from, some are better than others, so find one that suits your needs. If no WIFI you could try a powerline connection but those are a bit more spendy and hit or miss if they will work for your particular house/situation. As an example this TP Link kit. Just make sure you source it from a place that accepts returns should it not work out for you.
edit A PCGamer "best of" article for USB WIFI Adapters: http://www.pcgamer.com/the-best-usb-wi-fi-adapter/
edit 2 And an article at Make Use Of on Powerline adapters: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/8-things-powerline-adapters-need-know-first/
I use one of these for my friends computer whenever he came over to game with his deskptop (the router/mode was maxed on ports). I recommend it.
Wifi Adapter AC600 Usb Wireless Adapter 2.4GHz/5.8GHz Dual Band Network Lan Card with External Antenna for Windows 10/8.1/8/7/XP/Vista/Mac OS10.6-10.1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019SRBUNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mNlZ7bGr6ZMYr
if you have an android device, i'd recommend the following app.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.android.wifiscanner
in specific, the channel radar function will give you a visual representation of the channel usage of each broadcasting device - 2.4GHz and 5GHz are on separate views. if you live in a crowded area, and have a ton of overlap, that could help to explain the situation.
with how crowded 2.4GHz gets, i simply ignore it. 5GHz though, ah, DFS is the (current) promised land...
of note, at current, it is useless to set your wireless broadcasting devices to anything beyond 40MHz width. on your Ubiquiti AP, verify that you have enabled the advanced options and are using DFS channels. this helps like mad - use the channel radar from the app above to verify your settings/findings).
also, name your 2.4GHz and 5GHz SSIDs differently. that way you can exactly pinpoint which frequency you are connected to and using (ie. 5GHz does NOT broadcast as far, but is cleaner/faster in general).
as a last resort, get something like the item below.
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/
inexpensive and works on most devices. that would help to prove if the onboard wireless adapter is at fault or not.
let me know if you have any other questions.
Here's a cheap $20 USB plug to fix your £1000+ laptop
https://smile.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502826802&sr=8-5&keywords=usb+wifi+ac
Why MS can't/won't spend a few more dollars to fix this is beyond me.
Yes you would need a card. If you can, I'd push for 2+ antenna, thus AC1200 or above. For example, $19.99 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/
Otherwise, pretty much any other <$10 adapter would be fine.
I'm using something like this in my current desktop (not that exact model, but essentially a clone). I haven't noticed any problems with speeds while gaming. Your best bet is a card that supports 802.11ac, usually advertised as "1200 Mbs wifi." If you don't get that exact model, make sure it's using USB 3.0. You don't want to be potentially limiting your wifi speeds with a USB 2.0 interface.
Edit: This is a relatively budget-friendly option. I'm not sure how much of an improvement (if any) you would get by spending $60 on a wifi adapter. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in.
My opinion doesn’t mean too much, I have never built a pc, just been on this sub to try and learn, like everyone else.. but I was told to get a ASRock B450 pro4 atx , and an adapter online
Inamax USB WiFi Adapter 1200Mbps, USB 3.0 Wireless Network WiFi Dongle with 5dBi Antenna for PC/Desktop/Laptop/Mac, Dual Band 2.4G/5G 802.11ac,Support Windows 10/8/8.1/7/Vista/XP, Mac10.5-10.14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VnYCDb03FP16E
Something like this, I’m on mobile so sorry for formatting
If wireless internet would be a major improvement for you I’ve linked a simple fix Here
Not op but that mobo doesn't have Wifi. I'd recommend this if you want to look into other options.
I have to give USB-C displayport adapters such as this 2 thumbs up. https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P/ref=sr_1_3?crid=79WW421AT8CU&keywords=accell+usb-c+vr+adapter&qid=1564853875&s=gateway&sprefix=accell+us%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-3
I've been using it for 2 weeks now and no issues so far. Just have to make sure the USB-C port is connected to your dedicated GPU.
With a 2080ti you can use the virtualink USB-C port with an adapter for VR, or as an extra USB hub. You can also use a USB Sound Card to free up PCI-E slots
I'd also recommend saving a USB port for a small wireless touchpad/keyboard combo like the Logitech K400, as it's much more convenient than maneuvering a full keyboard and mouse around your wheel. Furthermore, make sure the motherboard you pick has several USB controllers as opposed to one controller for every USB port. It's not hard to overwork your USB controllers with sim racing peripherals, especially with VR.
I just stumbled upon this thread cause I reserved mine and was curious on wait times. But the adapter isn't a requirement, and there are other VR adapters that do the same thing. Just don't want you to find out later and regret it. You also might make a profit just reselling to someone that doesn't want to wait for theirs.
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P/
If you've got a 20xx graphics card with a virtualink type c connector there's and excellent extention by accell https://www.amazon.com/Accell-J231C-008B-3-USB-C-VR-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P
Try one of these I love mine. Youre also going to get a reduced speed if your router is not able to handle the throughput so that may be something to look into as well
I use this on SMOS/BAMT: http://www.amazon.com/ALFA-Network-AWUS036H-Wireless-802-11g/dp/B000WXSO76/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398268056&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=awus036h
I hear many pentesters talk about Pentoo as the better wireless platform and they recommend the :
tplink TL-WN722N- http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG
and the alfa awus036h- http://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Network-Wireless-802-11g-AWUS036H/dp/B000WXSO76
Also if you are into wireless pentesting heres the playlist for the 2014 DefCon Wireless Village Talks: http://www.irongeek.com/i.php?page=videos/defcon-wireless-village-2014/mainlist
This should give you a couple more bars. https://www.amazon.com/Network-Wireless-802-11g-Adapter-AWUS036H/dp/B000WXSO76/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498670299&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=alpha+networks+awus036h It will allow you to hook up one laptop. If you want wifi for several devices hook up the above with this device https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498670299&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=alpha+networks+awus036h
With the combination you are taking your neighbors wifi boosting their signal strength and then creating your own wifi network for everyone in your house to use. I have had this set up at my lake house for several years. I us a high gain antenna like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498670676&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=high+gain+wifi+antenna
pointed across the lake (1500 feet est) at my friends house and use the above devices to create my own wifi for my house. It works for internet browsing but its not enough speed for streaming video. You may just want to start with the alpha hooked to one pc and see how that goes and what king of increase in signal and speed you get. The nice thing about all of this is since it is from Amazon any/all can be returned. All the pieces add up in price but if it gives you free internet you can justify it and the return on investment is really good considering how expensive internet would be especially for occasional use.
You have to remember that even if you can get frames from your computer to the acres point that the AP may not have enough strength to get frames back to you. In any case, I've used this on several occasions and it works well.
The card is hard coded to not go into 'promiscuous mode'. I hate to promo, but I really like the Alpha link. It works on all machines (win/nix/osx), it's portable and comes w/ two antennas. Here is a list of compatible cards if you wanted to pick one for yourself. But I can attest, after having the alfa for years, it works and its simple. here is a link explaining the requirements of a card. Hope this helped you move fwd! feel free to mssg me with any questions you may have. I'm happy to help you leap forward.
Here is the desktop version of your link
have you checked the compatibility list?
http://www.aircrack-ng.org/doku.php?id=compatibility_drivers&amp;DokuWiki=b14024811c3cccc5dfa529c40f9ca7eb#which_is_the_best_card_to_buy
I just ordered this:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000WXSO76?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
TP-Link is good and also https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038Q4AIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7VsJAbC9EMVDW
I see, you want to build a man in the middle wifi hotspot! Yes, this is possible, but you have to get a network adapter that's capable of doing this. I'm not sure which Pi you're using, but the built in wifi adapter on a pi3, isn't suited for this type of activity.
This is a great device, below, that is capable of being used to learn a lot about wifi networks!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038Q4AIG?psc=1
While you might be correct in that there might be some EMI in your case - maybe one of your components lacks a filter cap or ferrite choke or something similar - it's just as likely you've just got a bum wifi adapter.
TP-Link doesn't make horrible gear, but it's cheap as chips and some of it goes bad before its time as a result. Let me suggest something to you that might not be a solution I suggest to everyone:
Take a look at this.
Now, there's plenty of people that don't prefer USB adapters to PCI-E external ones, but honestly, they're more versatile and easier to install, as well as not taking up room in your case. Alfa makes probably the best USB adapters anyone does, and I have significant experience using and recommending their products. I've had an AWS036H for over two years, abused, even put outdoors for a time, and it just won't die.
Another benefit is that I guarantee the gain on this setup completely kicks the ass of anything you were using before. Your games will run with better ping, I bet you. IMO, it's an upgrade.
I don't see any problem with you using their wireless if you're in range, especially if you're a student there. You could try something like this - https://www.amazon.com/High-Gain-Long-Rang-Alfa-9dBi-Mount/dp/B0038Q4AIG/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481462090&amp;sr=8-17-spons&amp;keywords=alfa+networks+awus036h&amp;psc=1
have had good luck with these myself, https://www.amazon.com/High-Gain-Long-Rang-Alfa-9dBi-Mount/dp/B0038Q4AIG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526286792&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=alfa+wifi&amp;psc=1
I've been buying these for my linux systems. They work great and take no configuration (Tested on Debian Stable/Testing, Ubuntu 12 and up).
I should say, that's with stock antennas... I'm sure the range would be quite good with some aftermarkets
The other option would be to get something like an Alfa network card and big boy antenna... I've picked up AP's like half a mile away with one. That said, they're a bit clunky.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038Q4AIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493156493&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=alfa+network&amp;psc=1
Here is a USB Wifi adapter with a really large antenna. It only supports wireless N, not the newest AC. But, the high gain antenna it comes with is great if you are farther away from the router.
Here's a cost effective package:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038Q4AIG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works so well I bought a second for MIM attacks. Built in support in BT5 and Kali distros out-of-the-box.
I used this adapter for about 2.5 years and I couldn't tell a difference after switching to a wireless card.
I'd use that computer to play BF4 and PS2 with pings usually around 50-70 if I remember correctly. It was certainly an enjoyable gaming experience.
How about this one?
As other people are saying, don't upgrade router, get a wifi dongle. I've had 2 and like this one much more than my first. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BV4JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_Hb2jAtbfLOd75
Does it need to be a card or can it be usb?
If so, I have good success with these:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-WID320-300Mbps-Wireless-N-Adapter/dp/B00961GM1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421359562&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+adapter+kinivo
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BV4JXI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have 4 of the Rosewills and 2 of the Kinivos. Both have been extremely reliable. The rosewills have the advantage of including the base stand and antenna so you can position it better which can be a big deal. They are both 2.4 ghz N and not 5 ghz.
What kind of wireless network do you have currently?
Yea, you need a wireless card! This is pretty popular. Then, when you have installed your operating system, you need to install the drivers, etc.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054YQOM0/?tag=pcpapi-20
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BV4JXI/?tag=pcpapi-20
Out of these two which one should I get?
Get a dongle with an external antenna and cable to move it. Something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BV4JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473010116&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Usb+wifi+with+antenna
You just need to position the antenna so it has direct line of sight to the router. (not through the PC or the television)
mine is 5 years old. you can't get it anymore.
but I did buy this recently and it's working well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BV4JXI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004BV4JXI
Works out of the box and has fantastic range
5 GHz is a better band anyways, use it if you can. Grab this or look for a "dual band WiFi adapter" if you cant use Amazon for whatever reason.
Edit: Anddddd we both linked the same adapter. Do it OP!
I have an ASUS USB-N13 that works great, but it is 2.4GHz only. I would recommend you try out the 5GHz version, the ASUS USB-N53.
It's most likely that either the wireless adapter is defective, or that you've got some wireless interference going on. Either way, I'd recommend you get a better-quality wireless adapter that supports the 5GHz band, like this one here.
Appreciate the reply.
I opted for this: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless-N-Graphical-Interface-USB-N53/dp/B005SAKW9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458411724&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=asus+usb-n53
I got prime now because I was thoroughly angry trying to troubleshoot the Alfa one.
Look into a USB wireless adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SAKW9G/?tag=pcpapi-20
I did what you said at night when absolutely nothing else could've been going on and what would happen is every now and then my ping would spike up at the same time for both boxes. Is it safe to say that I need to replace my router? I can't think of anything new in the environment, i didn't get any new technology. I have changed the wifi channels but that didn't seem to help either.
Would something like this be a viable solution?
https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Wireless-N-Graphical-Interface-USB-N53/dp/B005SAKW9G
I have Comcast here. Google just said they are moving in a bit south of my city, so Comcast is shitting bricks. (bricks have been shat)
They upgraded everyones speed for free, but it won't matter.
Oh, the point of this reply was to tell you what to do. Buy a motorola surfboard 6121 (just a recommendation) and call them and say "I have my own modem, I need to activate it." they will ask you for the MAC address which is on the bottom of the modem (sticker) and then activate it. No more rental fee and a much better modem, then get yourself a RT-N66U router and an ASUS usb adapter which is what I have, and I am at 300Mbit connection (max for the adapter) and I download games on Steam at 7 MB/s. Or you can opt for the adapter that is too fast for USB, and it plugs into your Ethernet port - has good reviews but I have not tried it (I think it has realtek cards inside, and shiny ASUS plastic on the outside)
Keep in mind, you set up the 2.5Ghz band then tab to 5Ghz band - I named mine DO NOT WANT and ASUS5G - the usb connector has software that shows the signal level of each band, and it uses them both to achieve 300Mb/s. The router will do 900Mb/s which I don't believe they make adapters for yet. It is an amazing router, and well worth the price.
Let me know if you have questions.
There are really good USB Wifi adapters nowadays.
This one for example.
This might be what you are looking for.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005SAKW9G?pc_redir=1395478098&amp;robot_redir=1
The BM cameras are pretty much what I would have recommended for the studio - but not for sports because MFT power zoom lenses are only 3X.
Instead, you might want to consider 4 [JVC GY-HM-200s] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UM9J5PK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00UM9J5PK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20).
This camera has a 12x power zoom lens and can livestream over the net with a [$36 ASUS USB-N53 dual band USB adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SAKW9G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B005SAKW9G&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20).
It can also output to HDMI, output to SDI and/or record to dual SD cards.
Here is the 1080i image quality you can get from this camera (please watch at 1080p):
http://youtu.be/nYPq3VccYTU
Here it is at 2160p (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
http://youtu.be/cskFvlJ_eJA?t=13m48s
The Blackmagic Studio Cameras are a good value for the money - but the lack of a solid power zoom option limits it, in my view.
Hope this is helpful and good luck with your transition to TV!
If you are in a situation in which it is impractical to setup a direct line (in my case, router is on opposite side of house on floor below me) then you can do two things to get full advertised speed on wifi.
First, a high power USB wifi adapter for your computer can easily solve your range and speed issues. This is the one I use and it works very well, giving me the full 25mbps Comcast promises. Try one of the high power adapters first before getting a better router, and if it still doesn't give you a solid connection, move on to the next step.
Next, buy a router with high bandwidth and long distance antennas. For a large house and many concurrent users you will probably need to go over $100, but don't hold me to that as in my research I did not look for cheaper high badwidth "gems" from the past. I have a Linksys EA6900 AC1900 router and it serves up to 5 different users in our large home with no bottleneck. The previous Comcast-leased Netgear router had much less bandwidth on the 2.4GHz band, causing everyone to suffer whenever a single person streamed netflix. I also test channels 1, 6 and 11 in my router config every now and then to see if I can switch to a less crowded channel.
You are far from the router. Get a usb adapter with external antennas like this one
Or get a USB extension cable and move the adapter closer.
This
try one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Network-Adapter-Antenna/dp/B006JWMOOI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1380925076&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=1000mw+wifi
I have this one. It's big, but you can a signal a long way. Plug and play no fuss!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I got one of these and it works awesome. It's the best one I have used so far.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Good deal. Maybe the SD cards aren't as wimpy as they are made out to be.
I ordered this wifi card today to try out some Wireless access point Blue network work from the Pi. Hopefully it will work. It isn't specifically listed on the hardware compatibility list, but close to it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also ordered a Banana Pi and a Panasonic SD (marked faster, but who knows if it will actually be faster) card to play with as well.
Ya I'm going to troubleshoot that next. Just ordered this WiFi adapter off amazon.
I went with this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI
It's probably overkill for your average case, but it's been much, much better than my built-in wireless so far.
Disclaimer: I've only had it a week. If it turns out to be unreliable, I will be angry.
looks awsome.
Only thing i would do differently is invest in a nice Wifi adapter if you wanted to do any kind of downloading/streaming.
Ive always been on the opposite side of the house from my router and Ive gone through countless wifi adapters - they never really cut it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JWMOOI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Best damn USB Wifi adapter you'll get for under $20
Can't any router fit the bill? http://smile.amazon.com/Smays-Micro-USB-Ethernet-Computer-Notebook/dp/B009XU6N54?ie=UTF8&amp;sa-no-redirect=1
So I can just use one of these? Or do I have to do all of what you did? And could you recommend or give examples of the products you used?
It's got 802.11ac/n and both the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands. I've never had any trouble. Ours is pretty close to the router, which is right next to our TV setup, though.
Then again, our Chromecast is fairly distant from the router, and it's the old model with 2.4 GHz only, and it does fine with streaming, too.
I mean, even if you're only getting the 2.4 GHz speeds on 802.11n, that's still a theoretical max of 65 Mbps. Even if you halve that to compensate for interference, packet loss, etc, you're still talking roughly 30 Mbps, and even if you've got other traffic on the network, even 1080p HD streams don't tend to go above about 8Mbps or so. So you've got plenty of leeway, unless your 2.4 bands are just super crowded where you live.
If you find that you have wireless issues and there's an ethernet port handy, you can always grab one of these sorts of devices, and pop it into the Nexus's micro USB port. But, really, you should be fine. We've had no network troubles with ours.
____
____
____
As for these other boxes that ship with Android as media centers...I'm always wary of them. There are just so many questions: Who made it? What's the build quality? What version of Android does it have? Will it get updates? Will TV apps play nicely, or will I be stuck with tablet apps? That stuff.
To use the one that you linked in your other comment as an example, it's actually more expensive than what we paid for our Nexus Player (we got ours for about $70), and it's only running 4.4.2, so it's all the way back on Kit-Kat, which means that it's unlikely to see further updates, and application compatibility might start to become an issue down the line. I'd be worried about ending up with a "tinkering" device, when what I wanted was something to stream Netflix and Hulu on, and occasionally play videos off of a USB drive with.
Don't get me wrong, I like to tinker. But I prefer for it to inhabit its own space away from more recreational stuff.
You know what you're getting with the Nexus, though. It's from Google and Asus, two reputable companies, and it gets steady updates right from Google. The proper full TV interface works really nicely, and you can install the Kodi app, too, if you like. And with the Google Cast receiver software built in, it's more versatile than your average tablet. You can cast any Chrome tab over to it, if you want. And some dev builds of VLC have experimental Google Cast support. You can also sideload any Android APKs that you might have and see if they work, too. They'll probably do about as well on the Nexus as they would on the other device, given that neither has a screen or touch input.
EDIT: One other thing I thought of. If you decide you really don't care for Google's Android TV builds...it's still a Nexus device. And there are other ROMs out there for it, because it's a pretty popular device with an unlockable bootloader. Personally I prefer to stick with Google builds on my Nexus devices. It's easier.
Sure no problem, this is what I've been using for ~2 years now.
I can verify that this one works with no problems. Setup a pirate box on the pi zero w with it
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
this one
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
Thank you very much for your reply. I appreciate that you linked content.
I have this WiFi adapter that I had bought a couple years ago but that was while I was in the states. I'll have to go hunt another down.
This adapter has been working well for me after setting the adapter settings in Windows to use 5G. Although you could be screwed by your dorm room. 😢
Yeah, Intel has better ITX right now since Ryzen is so new. There's an upcoming Asrock ITX board, and...something else, but I can't remember who makes it.
You could get a USB 3.0 device. So long as it has a proper antennae it will operate nicely. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45USW/?tag=pcpapi-20
Problem with Intel is, at that price range you're going to get a lot less power out of it for your work related tasks. Gaming, photoshop, and single threaded tasks would do great though. But video editing and such relies on raw core/power where Ryzen excels at for the price you have listed.
I'll be honest with you though...
If you're happy with your iMac and laptop to do this level of work, any half-way decent rig would be totally fine for you. I'm just trying to suggest ways to get your $'s worth, but you might honestly not give a shit about any differences here in terms of power. If your work is occasional and you're patient, there's nothing wrong with an i7 7700 or something.
Edit-If this build is your source of profit however, I'd opt to find a middle ground between portable and power. I have a full ATX case that measures 14x14in so it's pretty portable. There are other options here that merit looking into.
Given what little space for air is left, don't choke it off any more.
Here are three examples of USB adapters from cheap to more costly.
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-AC53-Nano-Dual-Band-Compatible/dp/B071KV2SMV/
https://www.amazon.com/USB-AC56-Dual-band-Wireless-AC1300-Wi-Fi-Adapter/dp/B00FB45USW/
https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-AC68-Dual-Band-Adapter-Included/dp/B01I7QFR10/
I wouldn't expect that to perform well its tiny antennas matter.
I use this along with a matching Asus AC router use 5ghz band if you can get a strong enough signal and you'll have just like wired performance via wifi (2.4 ghz is often super crowded these days and is by nature slower but its range is twice as good)
So I am going crazy.
The bulk of my testing was done on this guy forced to 5G and 802.11ac only. In theory, the link speed should be 867 and Windows does indeed show 867. I'd be happy with half... but it's getting nowhere near half a mere 2 feet away. Nothing in the 5G spectrum in my apartment, no other 5G APs in range, all of the other wireless devices were turned off. Keep in mind I got roughly the same results on a Surface 3 and a laptop, both with ac. The NAS is hard-wired.
I'd say it's a router problem, except I get the full gigabit when I'm hard-wired in. It has to be something in the air, I guess. There could be some wise ass neighbor blasting 5G and I'd never know.
Well, time to buy some rugs to cover the cord I'll be stringing...
Usually, its on the Ethernet port itself on onboard NICs.
https://www.microsoft.com/library/media/1033/windowsxp/images/using/networking/setup/68571-ethernet-small.jpg
The two squares above the port.
The color will vary, but one usually indicates "Link State" which indicates that a ethernet connection is detected and active. It is always on when an ethernet cable is connected on both ends. Then there is an "Activity" light which will flash when it sends or receives network traffic.
If there is no lights when the cable is plugged in: the other end is unplugged, the cable is bad, or the NIC is inactive/broken. Usually the NIC will be active as soon as you turn on the PC, if it wasn't while it was off. Which leads me to believe that it isn't a software issue if that doesn't happen.
One of these will work. http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Ethernet-Chromebook-Specific-TU3-ETG/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/ref=pd_sim_147_3?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=3196D7E-VTL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0FPSW7T0RAVX0RJ59S0A
I have used the TrendNet USB Ethernet adapters on the RPi with good success. I just tested on a Zero, and it seems to work just fine with no power adapter required.
I own 3-4 physical copies, and at least 20 digital.
I prefer digital for when it is docked so I don’t have to go change out the cartridges (yes I’m lazy). Also for portable gaming I can’t forget to grab a digital game. Some games load faster if they are digital, and some do when they are physical, but it’s just convenient to download and go.
If you are going to download them, please make sure you have a great micro sad card, and an Ethernet adaptor. If you are going to get an adaptor make sure you get the right chipset. Below is the one I use.
TRENDnet USB 3.0 to Gigabit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yes I've seen that adapter recommended for the pi before. I actually am now looking at this one which has several people in the Q&A responding that it works well with the pi.
I tried this: Smays Realtek RTL8152 based Micro USB Ethernet with 3 Port Hub compatible Windows / Android / Raspbian Jessie Tablet, Linxu Raspberry Pi 2/Pi Zeros https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L32UUJK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9Y5Jyb1K66E02
I had a 5v 2a barrel connector that fit the power port on the adapter. It worked, the stock was powered from the adapters power port, the USB hub part worked as well. I didn't try storage. I really didn't notice any performance change. But I am fortunate to have good wifi. I figured I'd try it out for travel purposes.
I found this but I'm not sure if it would work on your phone.
https://www.amazon.com/Smays-Micro-USB-Ethernet-Computer-Notebook/dp/B00L32UUJK
I bought a random USB+Ethernet hub off of Amazon and it worked for the first week with my Nexus Player. Then it stopped working. When I get home tonight I'll unplug, reboot and try it again and see if it works. Here's what I bought, by the way.
https://www.amazon.com/Smays-Ethernet-compatible-Raspbian-Raspberry/dp/B00L32UUJK may work for you, I don't know if the version of android on the K1 has drivers for it.
Keep in mind that it's only 10/100, not gigabit, so wifi may technically be faster.
This is the one I have: Click here
I use it on raspbian lite and it works a charm! Should work on reteopie too! Even has 3 normal USB ports to plug a keyboard or mouse or anything else.
AmazonBasics USB 2.0 to 10/100 Ethernet Port LAN Internet Network Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HLII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z2FtDbN100D2D
Like this?
Yes, but it will only work when docked or if you have an ethernet to usb c dongle. Here's a basic one from Amazon. Is it beneficial, it's up to you. If you are having problems with a wireless connection, then yes, it is beneficial. But if the wifi is fine, then there is no reason unless you want the best possible internet for games like Splatoon.
I have an AmazonBasics usb2 100Mb adapter. No problem so far.
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00M77HLII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_qKWz3UzCPRrwx
This ethernet adapter works and gets an IP address.
However network traffic doesn't seem to be routed through it.
There might be some app out there than can enable the routing policies that seem to be missing.
I picked up a ten pack of these USB NICs (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HLII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_okn4BbTSTT2EB). I created OUs called enroll1, enroll2, etc. I created a correlated user account for each and adjusted the settings to drop the enrolled device in the same OU as the user account. I simply connect the usb nic and enroll. If I’m enrolling shared carts, I will enroll the entire cohort with the same enrollment account and move them all into their final resting place (OU) before I move on to the next cohort of devices. Quick and clean. I spend more time unboxing and stacking garbage than I do enrolling Chromebooks.
Hey,
I don't see a need for a refurbished laptop.
How about the ASUS Vivobook F510UA? It has:
The Vivobooks are decently built. This laptop has the latest i5 processor. It has plenty of ports, except no Ethernet or DVD/CD, you can buy external ones like this Ethernet adaptor and DVD/CD external. Sadly, no backlit keyboard. The OS is Windows 10 Home.
I did some research for you. What you want is a laser printer that has an ethernet connection. That is so you can plug it in to your buildings network. The HP LaserJet Pro M118dw will do that and it is only 99 bucks still under budget! It has Google Cloudprint as well.
But here is my question how are you getting the chromebook on the internet? Does it have an ethernet port on it?
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00M77HLII/ref=asc_df_B00M77HLII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126093426&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1015825874568886298&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003357&hvtargid=pla-298072489859&psc=1 here is a 10 dollar usb to ethernet adaptor that works with chrome os.
&#x200B;
So you can get a chromebook an adaptor printer and two extra toner cartridges and still be under budget.
Is this enough for a good connection, or I would need to have better?
I switch the adapter connected to the laptop to this one (older 2.0 version) and now my results are this.
Would something like this for example be a good option?
Hey there, seeing as the default routers supplied by ISP's tend to be pretty bad in comparison to off the shelf routers (I've had 7 routers now from BT, my ISP, 6 of which i've burnt out, 4 of which burnt out in the past 5 months), at the time i could tell the 7th router was about to go i decided it was finally time to upgrade to a [high end off the shelf router] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-Archer-VR200-Beamforming-Technology/dp/B0161AC69A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463768303&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tp+link+archer+vr200). However i am in the UK and these routers are made in Britain which is very much like being made in China these days, the routers supplied in the US (or where ever you are) may be better made. Besides that i still always strongly recommend changing router from your ISP's router due to my experience with BT. As for the router you have shown, it lacks 5 GHz wireless but claims to allow for 300 Mbps wireless speeds (300 mega bits is 37.5 mega bytes) which is plenty faster than current fibre optic download speeds.
One thing i urge you to check before you by a router though is what socket you use to connect to the internet. As far as i am aware the only two currently used are:
Here's an image of the two side by side. The reason i say this is because most routers only take one or the other, so be sure you buy a router with the right one, if that's what you decide to do. As for routers i recommend:
tl;dr: Buying a new router is probably your best option but make sure you buy a router with the correct socket you use to connect to the internet with. The router you asked about will do just fine assuming you use RJ45 to connect to the internet with but i've posted two others just to give you options. If your using VDSL (fibre optics but using the RJ11 socket) your best option my be to use a switch and a range extender, ive linked you to one but there are others that are available so have a look aswell.
As always feel free to ask any questions and i hope this helps. - Ross
One option could be to use Ethernet Over Power to get an Ethernet cable into your bedroom. They run about 500Mbps and generally reliable (maybe requires a manual reconnect every 6 months). That's enough for streaming video or gaming if you were that way inclined. Pair that with a cheap wifi router and you can have a second wifi network with a strong signal on your side of the house.
Or use an existing wifi extender product.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003Y5RYNY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=2945MB5S7X2JC&amp;coliid=I2A4ZV52OX4JIR
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00A0VBPLM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474360675&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=powerline%2Badapter&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NETGEAR-EX2700-100UKS-Range-Extender-Booster/dp/B00NIUHAG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474361769&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
A few options I'm looking at, need it PS4 specific though.
I ran a cable up to my room where I set up a second wireless access point
Alternatively, you could get a cheap range extender, like this
Cheap and easy options are powerline adapters and wifi extenders.
Not so great for file sharing over LAN, but good enough for internet usage.
This is what I'm currently using
If it's WiFi there is a cheap alternative
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NIUHAG6/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bT8f0x_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=H066SR96CDAAF3JQWW00&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=70fc065a-0cd4-5ef0-8852-82755e68152f&amp;pf_rd_i=430578031
Highly doubt the router is at fault unless its WiFi is really bad, even if your WAN speed is 100Mbps down, the internal network should support it as most recent routers have 1Gbps 8P8C by default
Edit:spells
Actually, you would be able to! Something like this would give you an Ethernet port via your wifi. Add switches as needed...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/cre/NETGEAR-EX2700-100UKS-WiFi-Range-Extender-Wi-Fi-Booster/B00NIUHAG6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499371362&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=wifi+extender
Is this an AP as it has a wired ethernet? But calling it an extender is a matter of semantics?
Then a [USB NIC] (https://www.amazon.com/Network-Adapter-Anker-Ethernet-Supporting/dp/B00NOP70EC) may be what is needed.
I just picked the first one from the results list, just to use it as an example of something to try
But yes, a USB 3 one like this would be more suitable
This is due to a driver or chipset not supporting it, or in the case of Windows 10 and Intel NICs, they blame each other and won't just fix it. Anyway, I have one of these and it should work. The price is right as well. Driver's auto load in Windows 7 and 10.
I also use it when prepping new gear so I don't have to unplug my network connection.
Ah sorry. It's this guy http://www.amazon.com/Network-Adapter-Anker-Ethernet-Supporting/dp/B00NOP70EC/
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Supporting-Notebook/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541290893&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=usb+ethernet+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41kLKmEAs5L&amp;ref=plSrch
I use an ethernet-to-usb 3.0 adapter on my macbook pro and it maxes the connection just fine.
Yes, assuming your are sure it’s not the cable.
Anker USB 3.0 Portable Gigabit Ethernet Adapter Supporting 10/100/1000 Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7r6MBbT30EXFF
2 things:
First off, I looked on Amazon for a USB to Ethernet cable. The first result looks good for a tenner is a 3.0 USB version (UK US)
Should I hold off until the update for 3.0 support? Or will it still work?
The other question: How is ARMS? Would it be worth £50?
Don't mean to be rude but gotta check: Make sure you're plugging it into the correct Ethernet port on your Google Wifi, you can only use one of them for internet IN. Also, can you try a different ethernet cable?
Not a Cox customer but just throwing out idea, if they have any type of like landing page that pops up with terms to accept or anything similar, you'll need to plug in a computer to your puck's ethernet and accept those before setting up the modem.
You might look into buying a cheap USB to Ethernet dongle or dock, just to have around for situations like this or for when travelling.
That said, I'm pretty sure Cox is just a standard cable provider right? Like Xfinity?
If they don't have the said splash page you have to agree to before use, then maybe you aren't supposed to be using the puck's default DHCP setting? Or something similar?
Again, picking up one of these will help you narrow down the issue because you can try just seeing if your Surface can get internet directly from the modem (make sure to always unplug the modem from power before switching devices) and you can also see if there is a ToS you have to agree to or something.
Anyways, report back with:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Supporting-Notebook/dp/B00NOP70EC/
I was using this adapter with Ubuntu, and it worked right out of the box. It should work with Fedora too, but I haven't tested it.
Use one of these - very good antenna:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T4UH/dp/B00TQD235C/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=tp+link+wifi+dongle+usb+range&amp;qid=1565711318&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-16
Different speeds and models available.
Always a favorite of mine https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T4UH-Wireless-10-7-10-10/dp/B00TQD235C/
TP-Link Archer T4UH: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T4UH-Wireless-10-7-10-10/dp/B00TQD235C%3Fpsc%3D1%26SubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-ffnt-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB00TQD235C
USB 3.0 and is an external solution that works well, although I use the older version (limited to 2.4 GHz N).
What about this one? 802.11ac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQD235C/?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;th=1
What is better for online gaming? a PCI wireless adapter or a USB one? I have this USB one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-ARCHER-T4UH-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00TQD235C/ref=sr_1_19?s=computers&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504106777&amp;sr=1-19&amp;keywords=tp+link+ac1200
I sometimes lose connection to game servers and its quite annoying.
What are my options? Ethernet is impossible due to how the house is set up and how far the rooms are. also the landlord would lose his shit if I even put a nail somewhere.
So I was wondering I should get a better USB one or a PCI one?
The Quest's video decoder is capped at 150Mb/s, which is what the Link does, and the latest version of Virtual Desktop also does 150Mb/s. The TP-Link Archer T4UH is capable of 866Mb/s, and is 1/2 the price of the AC2600. It works with Windows, but I have it connected to my Raspberry Pi 4 for a wireless NAS for the Quest. Rock solid connection, and the Quest shows it as 866Mb/s. You need to enable 80Mhz bandwidth though to get the full 866Mb/s, or it'll be reduced to only 300Mb/s. Still fast enough for the 150Mb/s the Quest is limited to.
ps: Just noticed your name...I'm in East Van too. :)
A two-stream adapter should be able to do that. You could search for "USB AC1200" or "USB AC1300" on amazon.ca to find lots of those. AC1200 vs AC1300 is not relevant since your router doesn't support the non-standard 256QAM technology for 802.11n that some companies use to inflate their number to AC1300. The TP-Link Archer T4UH for $30 seems like a good option since it includes a usb extension cord and has decent sized antennas.
Here's a list of 16 two-stream USB 2.0 adapters and 52 two-stream USB 3.x adapters
Yep, something along the lines of this tiny one, or this bigger one (which would probably be more reliable at longer ranges).
Do we know if you can use a LAN adapter with the Switch console itself rather than plugging in through the dock? Using something like this?
A live session means you get the Ubuntu installer on a flash drive and boot it up with the "Try" option.
You may not end up needing this now, but it's great for the future: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Compatible/dp/B011DDXGVC
SMEXY! The biggest problem I'm having with this thing is not being able to order spare power adapters for these things. I don't trust the off brand ones on amazon and HP is back ordered on spares which is insane.
Sort of related: What do you recommend for travel dongle solutions? I'm ordering the plugable desktop dock thing for the desk but we need some super tiny travel dongles for at least HDMI and Ethernet. I was able to find the official HP HDMI usb-c adapter which has a short small cable which I prefer, but this plugable usb c to ethernet adapter seems to be my best bet for ethernet.
I wish I could find a super light weight, small profile all in one but even the official HP travel dock is bulky even if it weren't back ordered.
I will not ever use my Switch docked. Always handheld. So I could directly connect my handheld Switch to LAN internet only with this ?
I have 3 of the i5 versions of that NUC and haven't has any issues using the previous version of the vib from www.virtuallyghetto.com/2016/11/usb-3-0-ethernet-adapter-nic-driver-for-esxi-6-5.html
Haven't tried the new "native" driver yet.
I am using this usb device
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011DDXGVC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I'm a big dumbo, go buy this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011DDXGVC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Source:
https://plugable.com/2017/04/26/plugable-products-unofficially-compatible-with-nintendo-switch/
If you want the absolute best reception possible, a PCIe card is the best choice. Not too expensive.
If you want something that'll save you money and still offer solid reception, there's USB adapters.
Alternatively, depending on how old your house is (I'm not sure of how the logistics go; you'd have to search around on that), powerline adapters are the next best thing to a wired connection.
Wired > Powerline > PCIe > USB
USB isn't bad, but PCIe is a good sweet spot if a powerline adapter wouldn't work.
So roughly $10-40 for WiFi. It's well worth it over purchasing a motherboard with it built-in.
---
With your budget? Yessir. Hardware before luxuries.
---
It's not hard at all. There are plenty of instructional videos and articles on how to do it.
tl;dr Make a bootable flash drive (at least 4GB on the drive; might as well have a bigger one, though), put the Windows ISO on there (make sure your Windows is tied to your Windows account; not as a local account either), install it to the SSD, boot up, sign in with the same Windows email as before, and activate it. Easy as that.
Make sure you wipe your hard drive, too.
What do you think of this one?
I've never used one of those but I can't imagine that its better than an external option since the case probably blocks some of the signal.
Not sure if the prices are different where you are:
PCIe AC1200 version for $25
USB wifi adapters tend to work fine too IMO as long as its a reputable brand.
I use this one for one of my devices. $13 for AC600
But its a bit slower than others on the market like this AC1200 for $22
In the end do what you would like. Many people are still using the N protocol just fine, some are using even older than that. It all depends on your use case.
With this 13$ USB adapter I get 130.2 Mbps Download and 4.2 Mbps upload with 12ms latency. Hope this helps!
https://www.amazon.com/OURLiNK-600Mbps-Wireless-Network-Computer/dp/B011T5IF06/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=wifi+adapter&amp;qid=1551228847&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-23
Very low profile usb to micro adapter and usb wifi card that can pick up 5ghz.
Adapter and wifi usb
With these two this tablet is now a streaming machine that I use in bed and around the house. I have it planted on my kitchen wall now and use it to watch sling or youtube vidoes while I cook.
http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/topic/311874-guidenvme-workingdual-bootinginstalling-os-x-10114-1012-beta-on-surface-book/
and this is the wifi dongle I got https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B011T5IF06/
Keep in mind that you can buy an external USB Wireless Card to upgrade your wireless performance instead of buying a new laptop. Getting a new laptop would be nice though! Here is an example of a WiFi adapter you could get. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-10-7~10-10-Archer-T1U/dp/B016K088UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469812294&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Nano+wifi+ac
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-10-7~10-10-Archer-T1U/dp/B016K088UC?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=wireless2016-20
If her laptop has an expresscard slot you could get this. If not this will work
Maybe try updating the driver for that, if that doesn't work, this is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Archer-T1U/dp/B016K088UC and it works perfectly, it's $20 so you might want to try it. Make sure you have 5 GHz WiFi before you buy it though.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T1U-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B016K088UC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500585775&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-LINK+Archer+T1U+Wireless+AC450+Nano
try
this
It work great for me
Worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016K088UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1467326230&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;amp;keywords=5ghz+wireless+adapter&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41WgXtCZHLL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
You can pick up something like this and it'll probably work fine.
you can use a usb wifi dongle
https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Wireless-Network-External-OS10-6-10-13/dp/B019SRBUNG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541239299&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+wifi+ac
But i just looked at your build, and you have space to install a pcie wifi card.
I couldn't find the one my buddy has but you could try this. Range of 230 feet or so I guess! Pretty gnarly for $15!
they're not expensive
That happened on my laptop and I got tired of messing with it so I just got one of these: USB WiFi adapter and it's worked great ever since, especially since the one in my laptop did not have the AC protocol.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRC8G1V/ref=twister_B06XWMLM7S?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 (Got it for $8-9) but was looking at something smaller for my SFFPC (AC1200) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY7PL10/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;th=1
There is but I doubt that it’s practical/cost effective, that’s why the shop that you bought it from probably didn’t fix it. And trust me they probably tried.
Personally I wouldn’t spend a lot of money doing fixes on that Mac man, it’s really old. Just buy one of these USB Dongles they work right out of the box with Mac OS Sierra, just download the drivers on the webpage and you’re good.
I'm so glad I got mine when they were no more than $28 USD. The prices are insane now. If you don't mind, you can also get a USB dongle for WiFi and or bluetooth. I know this [Edimax WiFi only dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10/) works well on macOS once you get the mac drivers
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Adapter-Supports-MU-MIMO-EW-7822ULC/dp/B01MY7PL10
This one is decent. Small formfactor.
Yup, those two wires at the top are the antenna wires and they're definitely chopped off. You could always go with a small USB WiFi adapter. Make sure it's AC (not N) for better speed. The one I linked is just an example and there are plenty to choose from. You could probably replace the antenna wires in the laptop if you're feeling crafty, but it's probably more trouble than it's worth.
This is the one you should get https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY7PL10/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've been using a little Edimax AC1200 for a while, and every Linux distro I've thrown at it has picked it up immediately. On top of that, it has drivers that work on macOS. I can pass it through on my Proxmox box and it just works.
If you don't find any other options that work you can purchase this from amazon. It is an external USB wireless card that will work.
http://amzn.to/2FeH3GD (Canada)
http://amzn.to/2F6aYgN (US)
It is not cheaper to get everything at Micro Center. Micro Center uses great deals on the cpu+motherboard to get you in the door, and then overcharges on almost every other part.
There are many wifi adapter options. The main thing is to make sure it is 802.11ac, which is the modern standard.
I recommend the the $20 Innamax USB 3.0 adapter which has an antenna and a 1200 megabit max speed. You can spend a bit more to get a PCI adapter instead if you want to preserve all of your USB ports, but you'll have 4 on the rear of the case and 1 on the front so I'd just get the USB adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-1200Mbps-Wireless-Network-10-4-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524955285&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=pc+wifi+adapter&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41X3rN6xWLL&amp;ref=plSrch
just as info you can get a wifi stick https://www.amazon.com/Inamax-1200Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-Mac10-5-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539179633&sr=8-3&keywords=wifi+stick for very cheap, but tbh i would stick with the B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC. Gl and hf building ;)
Specifically these four so far:
[edimax](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0799LXYQR/ref=twister_B07C21G1B5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
[usbnovel](https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-600Mbps-USBNOVEL-Wireless-10-4-10-12-2/dp/B06XRG9QDV/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542888984&sr=1-8&keywords=wifi+adapter)
[techkey](https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Adapter-1200Mbps-Antennas-Raspbian/dp/B07FDSLCBR/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542888984&sr=1-12&keywords=wifi+adapter)
[inamax](https://www.amazon.com/Inamax-1200Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-Mac10-5-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542888891&sr=8-5&keywords=amazon+wifi+adapter)
apparently hyperlinking doesnt work here or im an idiot, lol
I just installed one of these on a Mac Pro []
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773ZPKS2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)
Seems to work fine, came with drivers and an app for connecting. Only used it for a day but so far so good. Has a big external antenna which might not be great for a laptop (I just needed better reception than I was getting from the internal card).
this PC deal is very good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D5S3LZM/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
a lot of reviewers are claiming defective units and having to return, so you should consider that. But at this price I would be willing to take the risk.
as for wifi, you can just buy a usb adapter with an antenna, they work pretty well
https://www.amazon.com/Inamax-1200Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-Mac10-5-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537372883&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter&amp;dpID=41X3rN6xWLL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Inamax-1200Mbps-Wireless-802-11ac-10-4-10-13/dp/B0773ZPKS2?crid=3GB5EK5YQKWK0&amp;keywords=wifi+adapter+for+pc&amp;qid=1536895813&amp;sprefix=wifi+a&amp;sr=8-3&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_3
Could this adapter give me a virus possibly? I’m just kinda paranoid since it says I have to install some drivers
Inamax USB Wifi Adapter 1200Mbps, USB 3.0 Wireless Network Wifi Dongle with 5dBi Antenna for PC /Desktop/Laptop/Mac,Dual Band 2.4G/5G 802.11ac,Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773ZPKS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_UkGHXBLd85UKB
I have a brand new PC that's missing one thing: wifi.
What sort of thing should I should I get for this? I do some online gaming and video streaming. Is something like this ok?
What interface were you looking for? I got this USB3.0 one. Stream my Steam games with it and have had no problems with the connectivity. Solid consistent connection.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773ZPKS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It happend to me too, as I bought the Gigybyte RTX 2080 Ti Aorus Extreme. The solution was an Accell USB-C VR Adapter, connected to the Virtual Port on the Graphic Card (it looks like an USB-C)... Works excellent, and makes the connection easier too (+free USB Ports) but isn't cheap in Germany... https://www.amazon.de/Unbekannt-J231C-008B-3-Accell-USB-C-Adapter/dp/B07LC4B43P
I know, some other Vitual link /USB-C Adapters are working too.
Can something like this be used with an HDMI-> DP adapter for the rift-s?
This adapter works out of the box with BAMT/Ubuntu and has a nice antenna: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BV4JXI/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hey I have a similar situation with my grandad in a home and he needed WiFi for his tv box
If you just get a basic extender I’ve provided a link for the one we used it has been working fine hope this helps:
NETGEAR Wi-Fi Range Extender EX2700 - Coverage up to 600 sq.ft. and 10 devices with N300 Wireless Signal Booster and Repeater (up to 300Mbps speed), and Compact Wall Plug Design with UK Plug https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NIUHAG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5TaRDbEPKYKJJ
Yeah, I know it's not a popular opinion but I feel that my logic is sound. As far as I can tel, the only reason people go PCIe is because of the speed difference between PCIe and USB.
The Gigabyte should be fine, I have my preferences but I really don't think that you're going to notice a difference. I've personally had good experiences with TP-Link adapters like this one. I haven't personally used this one but I'm a fan of Alfa products.
I got this [USB wifi adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Wireless-External-Antenna-OS10-6-10-12/dp/B019SRBUNG/) in September and it's been working great for me. I used to always get dropped connections and my download speed wouldn't max out with my old Linksys Adapter. I am in the furthest room in a corner on the second floor and my router is in the furthest room in a corner on the first floor.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOP70EC/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XXsxCb19BKXNS