(Part 2) Best stereo 1/4 inch & 1/8 inch jack cables according to redditors

you can buy AUX extensions. here you go my tall friend

Then you need an adapter.

3.5mm Stereo Jack to 1/4" Stereo Plug Adapter black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00142BZSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X0-GDb00CYGPW

usb-a to usb-b cable

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a couple of headphone jack adapters

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ground wires if you're dealing with vinyl

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interference suppresion filter clips

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ethernet cable

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and a bunch of these

Pretty dumb question here. I have a Scarlett 2i4 and a Prophet 12, if I use a cable like THIS ONE and have the prophet outputting into one of the inputs on the scarlett, the sound is a bit weird and things go missing/super quiet. From what I understand this is due to an unbalanced output on the prophet and a balanced input on the interface.

It works fine If I have two TSR cables running from each output (left/right) on the prophet into both inputs on the interface. Is this the only way to get the sound from this guy? Ideally I'd like to have a 2nd input on the interface available for another synth. Thanks!

I think I'm about to make your day.


The El Cap CAN be "converted" to a stereo input: I use mine that way on my board. All you have to do is buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then, before you connect it, open the pedal and change one jumper like it shows here:

http://www.strymon.net/faq/enable-trs-stereo-input-deco/

Done. Now you can just take the stereo outs of your 720 to your two amps.

One thing to note though: I have 3 Strymon pedals run this way (deco, flint and el cap) and for 2 out of the 3, the Hosa cable I got was fine on one input, but the other would NOT let me plug in my lava cable tightrope cable. Probably won't be an issue for you, but it was a giant issue for me.

Anyhow, I hope this helps you.

EDIT: Corrected diagram based on suggestions below.

Made your solution plan into a diagram for clear graphical representation. The cables needed that Destiny probably doesn't have/didn't order yet:

• ORANGE line - RCA to 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
  
• BLUE line - 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4" mono TS jack
  
  
• PINK line - 1/4" mono TS jack to 3.5mm stereo jack

Try a 4 pole cable adapter. This fixed the issue for me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4FU52C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OaZEwbKVMNEK5

These are just from my personal experience (I have not done anything to the phone besides change the launcher/icons):

• I have had pretty decent screen on time, definitely better than my M7, and alot less drain during standby if any at all, can easily go 4 hours with light use, and maybe use 5-10% max (at least for me).
  
  
• The screen is beautiful, it does have a bit of oversharpening, but you really have to see it and decide yourself.
  
  
• The phone gets hot, but I have never had an overheating warning personally.
  
  
• A good amount of accessories I have a spigen ultra hybrid, and a glass screen protector on mine personally.
  
  
• There is a weird annoyance with the micro usb where u have to tilt it downwards before inserting, and only the thinner micro usb cords will work, my amazon basics one was too thick at the connector in and wasn't snug enough causing an iffy connection. There was shell cracking issues, and is mainly a problem with the first few batches, mine doesn't have any as of now, it is a 2 month old phone. There is also a software problem with the headphone jack where if you use a line in to a car stereo it will have weird popping between songs, and the connection is iffy, but can be fixed by buying a 5-6 dollar extension, I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• LG's skin I would put on the same level as HTC's skin, not bad, but its definitely alot smoother if you use Nova Launcher or Google Now Launcher.
  
  
• I love the size compared to my M7, personally this is my sweet spot, until someone else proves me otherwise, any bigger, and it would start to be a bit too large for me
  
  I hope that helps!

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

Dongles. AFAIK there's no straight up adapter. They all have a cord.

Because Apple are fucking weird and have to make everything needlessly complicated.

The reason is because the "poles" (areas between the black lines) on the plugs are wired differently for Apple products. On most products, it's Left > Right > Mic > Ground. For Apple products, they reverse the mic and ground. This is why most earbuds on Amazon will have you pick between two versions, one for Android, one for Apple, or have separate listings for each.

Apple always has to make their products nice and "special." Your best bet is to just buy a replacement cable for another brand of headphones with the in-line mic. The headphones will work perfectly fine because the plug that goes into the ear cup is still Left > Right > Ground.

Here's a decent cheapo for $7.

https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Headphone-Auxiliary-Headphones/dp/B06XXD5SKN/

If you're constantly breaking cords, get something with an easily replaceable cord.

Fidelio X1, X2, L1, L2 from Philips. The SHP9500 also.

They use standard 3.5mm cords. All of them are over-ear, with good sound quality, low impedance.

If you want a Mic, you can easily hook up a VModa BoomPro to the SHP9500, X1, X2, and L2. The L1 is a bit weirder, as it has a length of cord terminating in a male 3.5mm a few inches from the cup.... so it can use something like a ModMic but not a BoomPro. - Or just get a cheap desk mic, like a Snowball, Samson Meteor or Go. There's also some pretty decent lapel mics out there in the $10-15 range.

For most of those, you can also get a 3.5mm cords with line-in-mics. I know the L1 includes one, and I'm pretty sure the L2 does as well. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Auxiliary-Headphone-Computer/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525144948&sr=1-3&keywords=in-line+mic+3.5mm


There are other headphones with detachable cables, if that seems to be your biggest issue.

Try something like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C4FU52C/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1393993426&sr=1-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

About getting an amplifier:
A power amplifier is basically a device that converts a low power signal to one that is directly fed to the drivers of a loudspeaker, otherwise you wouldn't get any sound ('mic level' and 'line level' signals are too low for loudspeakers)!

Since the B112D is a powered loudspeaker, the amplifier is included in the unit. This means you don't have to go out an buy one separately.

About getting a mixer:
A mixer is a device that takes multiple audio inputs, performs some modifications to the signal (e.g. equaliser, compressor), combines the signals, then spits it out.

You don't really need a mixer if you only have one audio source (sounds like you'll only need one since you're planning to use it for music). Even if you're hoping to mix several sources, the unit itself has individually adjustable gain settings for two discrete inputs. If you need any more than two inputs, the Behringer Xenyx 802 should suffice.

If you're hoping to get a mixer to use multiple speakers, you can simply daisy-chain the speakers together (this means you won't get any stereo separation but 1. it's a pool party, who cares and 2. you probably won't get a stereo signal anyway if you use most mixers). Plug the main input into 'Input 1', then connect your second speaker to the first by connecting an XLR cable to 'Mix Out' on the first speaker, to 'Input 1' on the second.

My advice would be to go out and buy a 3.5mm to XLR male cable, and use that to connect your phone/computer to 'Input 1' on the speaker. If you have a second set, follow the instructions for daisy-chaining above. Do that for however many speakers you have. Good luck!

Bastle Dude (fantastic mixer) http://www.bastl-instruments.com/instruments/dude/
Hady Audio mm-242 (inexpensive mixer) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&O=&Q=&ap=y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwierMBRCHARIsAHl9i4EMewS_AEUPiZBFnVFLVe2v_dB5D9TwRX4PQRBVqUW7zNPyIwH2IB8aAhdzEALw_wcB&is=REG&m=Y&sku=746498
Patchulator 8000 (effects signal changer, super useful for people with lots of pedals)
http://www.boredbrainmusic.com
If you want to do any sort of recording I would recommend any of the Zoom H series, I personally use the H4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=h4+zoom

If you are using the volcas and plan on or already have a few of them I would say for power get the myvolts 5 way splitter.
http://myvolts.co.uk/product/18811/5-way_power_splitter_cable_for_Korg_Volca_by_MyVolts_(5-way_splitter_+_USB)

If you are using the Volca Fm or Sample I would highly suggest using the retrokits RK-002, this clever cable helps unlocks the true potential of them. There are youtube videos so watch those.
https://www.retrokits.com/rk-002/

If you want to control your volcas from your daw or vice versa with other synths I would highly suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KXEDVQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio cables are always a hassle especially if you need a conversion.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" Male to 6.35mm 1/4" Male TRS Stereo Audio Cable is a great choice especially with pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503335947&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5+mm+to+6.35+mm

For portability and long lasting power I'd say go with the Omnicharge 20. Pricey but oh so wonderful and you can even plug a real outlet plug into it!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JWN6LC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503336186&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=omnicharge+20&dpPl=1&dpID=41fBHrR5CYL&ref=plSrch

There are midi splitters but I don't really use midi so I'd say google that one.
Don't forget about audio cable splitters so be sure to get a handful of those and regular 3.5mm audio too.

Also interested. This one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019TRW4HQ/

From Amazon.

Interesting. If they aren't working while plugged in via the cord my guess is because it appears the cord is only a TRS cable which does not pass along any mic signal, just ground + left + right. This leads me to believe that while in passive mode the mic is inactive. You could of course test it with a trrs cable but I don't see why they wouldn't ship with one if it worked.

Edit: a word.

Edit 2: if I'm right then something like this should get you talking

Hmm there are 1/4" and 1/8" connectors. Both are standard: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS105-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O35#immersive_view?1395276221882

If you find out the headphone model # we can see what connection they come with.

If this is the problem then a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter can fix the problem for you.

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

Jim knows what you're looking for, OP.

I've found the parts you'll want to get as well. It's definitely a real budget set up, but it'll get you started.

Phono preamp

Patch cable (from phono to iHome)

Just plug the turntable into the phono input, then use the patch cable to go from the phono's output and into your iHome, and you're good to go.

It looks like there should be 2 headphone jacks on the front-left of the piano. They're probably 1/4" jacks, so you'll either need to have headphones with a 1/4" plug, or you'll need an adapter like this to connect most common headphones.

You might be better off just spending $50 more to get the Scarlett 2i2 and some balanced cables.

If you are dead set on this route though, then you can use a cable like THIS

You should be looking for something that is called a stereo breakout cable where one side is either a single 1/4" or 1/8" male jack and splits to XLR or 1/4".

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

• These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.
  
  
• Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!
  
  
• Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!
  
  Best of luck to you!
  
  edit: formatting
  

You know you could get something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Reinforced-Premium-Quality-payment/dp/B00C4FU52C

and not worry about the cheap extension plug wearing out.

You can temporarily resolve the issue by purchasing this connector. It is an extension with a right angle that has alleviated the issue for me.

LG has neither addressed this issue nor the issue with horizontal screen stretching. It's a shame, really, given how amazing everything else is on the phone. Of course, it's still fairly new and it seems that every device is prone to some issues in the very beginning. Consumers have become unwitting beta testers for companies that don't exactly have the most complete quality control standards.

I decided against digikey and went with a combo of Amazon and Ebay. Here's the parts I bought:

>Cheap trrs cable from amazon $5.69

>100 M2 screws from amazon $4.99

>50 M2 spacers from ebay for $4.49

>200 diodes from ebay $3.29

>70 gateron blue switches from switchtop.co for $22.75


I bought 2 pro micros from ebay and 1 from amazon just because I had amazon giftcards and might use the extra pro micro for a numpad.
>pro micro from amazon $8.70

>2 pro micro from ebay $10.98

I use a ModMic 5 with my Sennheiser HD 650.

This adapter to split.

This cable to make it less annoying

The cable doesn't seem to be in stock anymore, but you get the idea.

Plug the cable into your controller, the splitter into the cable, the mic into the mic input of the splitter, and your headphones into the headphone input of the splitter.

Make sure any cables you get are 4-pole so it supports stereo audio plus the microphone.

The mic is detachable (magnetic) and looks like this attached.

What you need is a TRRS extension cable.

Not the standard TRS cable.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zeskit-Braided-Nylon-Premium-Audio/dp/B00S1R7F2U/

Not at all!
We currently use:
3x Logitech C922x Pro Webcams
7x 3.5mm Lapel Mics
7x 3.5mm to 1/4in adapters
2x Mini Audio Mixers
1x USB-to-1/4in Cable
1x 1/4in to 1/4oin cable

For video, we just use the webcams like normal.

For audio, we daisy chain the two mixers with the 1/4in cable, and plugin each mic to their adapters and into the mixers. Use the 1/4in to usb cable to capture the audio out of the last mixer, and now you have a dial for each audio line, but only one audio input device to your PC.

It's not the best solution, but it is way less expensive than buying the hardware video encoding and digital audio mixers would have cost (by factors of 10).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g2NKzbCYK1MW0

Awesome, thank you very much for the suggestion! I found a Xenyx 1002FX for about $50 on some local classifieds. She doesn't have a laptop yet but maybe I'll look at the 502 usb so she can use it when she gets a laptop.

​

It might be a noob question but what cord would she need to plug the volca into the mixer? It looks like it would need to be a 1/8 male split to 1/4 left and right like this cord.

I use this carrying case. It seems better (and cheaper) than the TE offering.

While in the case, I also use the decksaver. Better safe than sorry.

I haven't gotten this tiltable stand yet, but have my eye on it. Useful for G Force LFO, perhaps?

[This Bluetooth speaker also has a line input and is what I use for the OP-1 around the house. The bass sound makes up for the joke of a speaker on the synth.](https://smile.amazon.com/GGMM-Wireless-Bluetooth-Powerful-Enhanced/dp/B01M8NAN59/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526836517&sr=1-1&keywords=GGMM%2BE5%2BWireless%2BSpeaker%2BBluetooth%2BSpeaker%2C%2BPowerful%2BSound%2BEnhanced%2BBass%2B15%2BHours%2BPlaying%2BTime%2C%2BHands%2BFree%2BCalling%2Bwith%2BUSB%2BCharging%2BPort%2B(Black)

Cute.

Stereo to double mono splitter, so when I plug into an audio interface or mixer I've got some options.

Don't know if it would solve your problem, but I ordered this TRSS cable to force the DAC into high impedance and it sounds much better. But in general, I have no idea what I'm doing with this phone, and probably should have gotten a Jitterbug. So take my advice with a grain of salt. FosPower (4 Inch) 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Auxiliary 4-Conductor TRRS Stereo Audio Extension Cable [24K Gold Plated Connectors] for Apple, Samsung, Motorola, HTC, Nokia, LG, Sony & More

Edit: XDA fiscussion: Different modes in the Quad Dac?

Edit2: You may be able to find a TRRS cable at Sam Ash or Guitar Center locally at most certainly an inflated price.

Perfect. Yeah, something like this should do the trick. I don't know about the quality of the particular one I linked to, so make sure to check them out yourself.

Amazon

Since the cost is so low, it might be worthwhile to see if you can use Windows 10's dictation capability and just direct the audio out of computer to the microphone jack using an aux cord or something. There may be some sort of software solution to redirecting the audio as well. Failing either of those, you could just play the audio to a microphone using speakers or headphones.

Disclaimer: I have not used Microsoft's speech to text functionality for quite a while, so I can't speak to its accuracy (but, Microsoft is currently one of a handful of companies at the forefront of speech recognition research, so I imagine it wouldn't be too awful).

You’ll need a 1/4-inch breakout cable like one of these, these, and these. Figure out which ones work best for your setup and fill both holes on both sides. Red is right. Black is left.

You'll only need to buy balanced cables.

If you're going to connect it to your pc make sure to get a dual TRS 6.35mm to 3.5mm cable.

Like these

Pc version

What you'd end up with is a stereo cable with a tip/ring/sleeve (stereo) 1/4" jack on one end, and split to two mono 1/4" jacks on the other end. Something like this one.

Then the two mono ends would go into something like this Morley ABY pedal. They'd go in the A and B, take the out from the middle to your PA. You then can switch between the two channels, or have the option to have both summed (though no balance control between the two... you'd need a small mixer to do that...)

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35

I haven't used the 630, but I think it has a 1/4 in. stereo output? You could probably use cable like this one. Connect it to a line in port on your pc. If the output of that keyboard is amplified, it might distort the sound, although there are probably ways of compensating for it (I don't know how though).

That's what I did to connect my old Roland to my pc, although I had individual line outs for L, R, and headphones. (L and R were not amplified)

Another option is using a DAW to reconstruct your playing from the midi, adding sustain, etc.

It's called a Y cable, or a TRS cable (tip ring sleeve). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-117-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068O54&pd_rd_r=71fcbdee-f204-11e8-ac6d-e5cddbbd9c33&pd_rd_w=PWP0P&pd_rd_wg=Oys25&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=R4F6BF2FBW4ECJ0WGC2J&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=R4F6BF2FBW4ECJ0WGC2J

If you're going to DIY it like I suggest, just watch out for mislabelled cables. I see it a lot. The "insert" cable which is the one coming out of the A4 needs to be tip/ring. Ignore the terminology and as long as the 2 ends are different colours, you'll be fine.
This:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817817&sr=8-38&keywords=Y+cables
Not this:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817771&sr=8-2&keywords=Y+cables

The second cable simply duplicates the input to both outputs.
After that, simply use mono cables to get into the MS-20.

If you're okay with the additional toms being single-zone, I know my Yamaha DTX-500 (I think) supports using splitters to double the tom ports.

In other words, I have six toms hooked up, two to each tom port. They currently trigger the same MIDI notes, but only because I haven't really figured out what I'm going to do with them. Note that's done with dual mono -> stereo cables.

I'm also duplicating my crash (just convenient to have one on the left and right) and the double bass pedals, FWIW. Those are done with dual stereo -> stereo cables. Each side has the same zones, but who cares?

So, anyway, I have a decent number of triggers on the head unit I started with. Only complaint is that I had to upgrade my rack, which is now some Frankenstein-ish thing.

You can find 3.5mm connectors from a lot of places, like Sparkfun, Amazon, or if you don't like soldering the connectors and are more comfortable splicing, buy a cable and cut it in half.

Tools-wise you'll need something to strip the wire (knife or small wirestripper), some wirecutters, and a soldering iron.

Here's the cheapest on my list!

and

I wouldn't mind getting anything on my wishlist but if I had to choose, I'd choose this :D

Thanks!

You stole my words. I was just going to add a link for an axillary input cable which many TV's have along with VGA input for the computer. I know you mentioned this cable already but I seem to see this type of input on many HDTV's.

AUX Cable

I'm guessing it's a cube or something? Either way, I'm sure it has a line out or headphone jack, right?

You can get a cable to plug in from there to your computer's line in or microphone jack (line in is better if you have it), and record with decent quality. It won't be the best and it's not a very good way to record, but it's better than nothing.

if the line out on your amp is quarter inch, you could either go quarter inch male to 3.5mm adapter female -> 3.5mm cable -> line in or quarter inch cable -> quarter inch female to 3.5mm male adapter -> line in. It just depends on what you have I guess.

If your line out jack is 3.5mm then all you need's a 3.5mm cable.

Be warned though! If you turn your amp up too loud you can damage both of the components. Start with no volume, and slowly raise it till it's audible. Don't worry about it being too low, that can be adjusted later when editing the clip. This is absolutely not the best way to record, but if you're broke like me, then yeah. I used to do this for a while, and it worked okay. The better more official way to do it is with a USB interface, which you can get for around $30. I don't have enough experience with any one to recommend one though. but if you must:

http://www.amazon.com/inch-Stereo-Female-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B001TKABX6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1330916050&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-inch-3-5mm-Female-Adapter/dp/B000V1R92U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330916008&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-AUD-1100-06-6-Feet-Stereo/dp/B000SE6IV8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1330915986&sr=8-2

everything you need for <$5!

Oh, and for the actual recording, you can use a free program like audacity.

Yeah, that's what I thought. So what you've done is the TV is expecting sound input through that port but you're trying to get it to output the sound through there. You've got some of the right things, that's the RCA to Jack cable I mentioned above.

The only output on that panel is the Digital Out, the yellow-ish port that's at the far right of that line of 4 ports. You need to get the Digital Coax Cable, and the Coax to Analogue converter I mentioned above.

Plug the Digital Coax Cable into that port on your TV, then plug it into the converter, then plug the cable you already have into your converter on one end, and into your speakers on the other end. I know it seems kind of messy, but from googling around, your speakers only take Analogue sound in, and your TV only outputs Digital sound.

You could try to see if there's a headphones port on the tv, then plug that direct to the speakers using a normal 3.5mm cable but I haven't seen TVs with a headphones port in a while.

I think you need something like this.

There's no need to have your speakers on if you're listening through headphones but it's not like it would cause any harm either.

You need a 3.5mm to 1/4'' adapter if you have 3.5mm headphones and don't want to get different headphones. Like this one I think: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

This should work, but I would get something more fancy like this, because the little shits tend to break, or become loose over time.

You need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Y-Cable-Splitter-Cord/dp/B0062QPERU/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1494258365&sr=8-20&keywords=mini+jack+to+jack+cable

Or an ordinary minijack to 2xRCA cable and two RCA-to-mono jack adapters.

Can your drummer play to a click track? If not, don't bother because it won't come out very well.

If the drummer can play to a click track, then the cheapest way to do this is to create a stereo track with the click panned 100% into one ear, like this:

• Left Channel - Click track and bass track for drummer to listen to
  
  
• Right Channel - Bass track without click to send to sound board
  
  Then get a cable like this, put the left jack into a headphone amp for the drummer and the right jack into a DI box to go to the sound board.
  
  
  The not-so-cheap but more versatile way to do this is to get an audio interface with at least 2 outputs and use that with a laptop running Ableton or some other DAW to act as your click track and back tracks and only send the click to one output. This way allows you to mix the levels of the click and bass for your drummer.

That's a headphone splitter, my friend. Not at all what you want to use for speaker hookups. This boils down to the difference between balanced and unbalanced cables. Unbalanced cables have two conductors; one carries the signal, the other is the ground/shield. A balanced cable has three conductors; one carries the signal, another carries a polarity-flipped but otherwise identical version of that signal, and the last pin is the ground/shield.

Your speakers are looking for a balanced input on the TRS cable, and what it's receiving is two unbalanced signals (i.e. due to the headphone splitter, each speaker is receiving the left side signal on one conductor and the right side signal on the other). That means that each speaker is taking both sides of the signal, flipping the polarity of the right channel, adding them both together, and then amplifying the results. Yikes. That results in no stereo image, no frequency content below ~200Hz, a crazy messy top end, and all of your center channel information disappearing (because it's the same in both channels, therefore the polarity flip cancels it all out).

In order to solve this conundrum, you need to acquire a cable that splits the 3.5mm stereo jack into a separate left and right plug. Such a thing can be found here. Note that each side is an unbalanced cable, but that's okay; your speakers can handle that just fine, it just won't be quite as loud as a balanced setup (6dB quieter, to be precise). I ran my monitors off of a cable like that for a long time before I got a real interface.

Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions. Electrical issues are a funny business.

GLS Audio 6ft Y-Cable Splitter Cord - 1/8" TRS Stereo to 1/4" TS Mono - 6' Cables 3.5mm (Mini) to 6mm Cord for iPhone, iPod, Computer, and more - Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0062QPERU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DZzcBbBMJETPS

This would allow you to hook up phones or computers to the sound, use 3/4 inputs. If you ever need a 3rd stereo input use 1 and 2 but turn the balance to the opposite extremes on each

Extender?

After doing my best mime impersonation in RiftMax a couple times I figured I ought to get the ability to speak if I'm really going to be able to participate in VR. Assuming that the CV1 is going to have some sort of microphone I didn't really want to spend any more than I had to, so this was my solution.

Microphone: Neewer 3.5mm Hands Free Computer Clip on Mini Lapel Microphone - $6.95 shipped for 3

I gaffer taped this to the underside of the Rift right above my mouth. I used the camera on my phone to ensure it didn't obstruct any of the LEDs then wrapped the cable around the Rift's existing cable and tied it in place with the bread ties it came packaged with. It picks up my voice great and doesn't require any adjustment when I put the Rift on. An unanticipated side effect is that it covers a good portion of the light leak that comes in through the nose gap.

After getting that sorted I was getting annoyed with the immersion breaking plasticy sound of my cheapo Sennheiser HD497 headphones when I moved around, so I wanted something that would stay in place and ended up with:

Headphones: Enhanced Bass Hi-Fi Noise Isolating Earphones - Black - $10.38 shipped

These aren't anything special, but do the job just fine. They block out enough outside noise that I can settle into the VR world and because of the way I ran the cable through the Rift's headbands I am able to lift the Rift off my head enough to see without having to remove the headphones each time.

Cables: iMBAPrice iMBA-PS-06MF 6-Feet Gold Plated 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Extension Stereo Audio Cable - $7.99 shipped x2

Lastly I got these extension cables so I could continue running the headphone and mic cables along the Rift cable. Doing it this way keeps it at just one semi-bulky cable coming off the HMD, but a lot better than the "cables everywhere" feeling that I had before. One of which ended up being the most taught cable in the bunch, so in the off chance I end up tugging at it way too hard it's more likely to break the headphone jack on the front of my rig than the HDMI port on my much more expensive video card, which is nice.

I ended up spending $33.31 total in the end and a couple of the items are listed cheaper now than they were a week or two ago. I'm happy enough with the ease of use and quality that I figured it would be worth spreading the word to the rest of you, so I hope you find it helpful.

What about one of these?

Smartlav+ is fine. It's a mic meant for a cell phone using a TRRS connector. I assume the splitter is the SC6. Personally, I would get a small right angle TRRS extender (in fact I did for a different purpose) and see if that works for your existing splitter. I use this one explicitly

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/

with the point to shift the tension off the jack. Lots of lengths and manufacturers.

!

This is a real basic cable but will do the trick, you can look around and find others but you want what is known as a TRRS connection which is what makes the microphone connection work in this case (like a cell phone wired headset with mic)

https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-3-5mm-Conductor-Headphone/dp/B00FJEGXLW/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1518459414&sr=1-4&keywords=trrs+to+1%2F4+inch+male

With this you would need a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter which should be easy to locate at a music store or through Amazon and should be pretty cheap. Personally I reccomend monoprice for this sort of thing.

Buy a trrs to trrs cable, like this one. Cut the cable a few inches away from the plug and strip the wires, then use a multimeter or something to identify which wire goes where. Because the jack is already wired you'll have a lot more room to work with, making it much easier than trying to solder directly to a new jack.

The hard part is identifying which wire from the headphones goes to each contact on the jack. If you can get the old jack back from your friend that would help a lot. If not, you might have to just do trial and error until it works. This diagram might help.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FJEGXLW/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K0YB5QNFJEHAW0QDE52B&dpPl=1&dpID=51SPGvHouYL

You need this kind of aux cable. If you check your aux cable I bet it only has 3 rings. This has 4. The 4th ring is for the microphone access on the phone. I also use the Astro mix amp and headset for discord on my PS4. I can chat and still hear the game fine. Hope this helps

I should add that I use the A40 tr pro headset and mix amp. Not sure how different the two are.

Ok so I looked it up. It does look like it has an 3.5 aux port so I'm guessing this would work.

Kid you not I was just reading the above forum post 5 minutes ago. I just finished buying the wires so here are links to the wires needed.

[CTIA Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6W0O8DQ2720N)

[Headset Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHV9ORYOUKPWW)

[Stereo Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BB4GUC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

[RCA Stereo Audio Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JAG4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AEKEXTXL2B213)

I also purchased a replacement headset wire, if you are interested in this as well here is the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJEGXLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1SHTSJSJQA89P)

Get a 3.5mm to XLR cable and a 3.5mm connector/extender.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G

For you, I'd recommend getting:

1. this
   
   
2. this
   
   
3. this
   
   
   This is actually the setup I started off with alongside a Rode-NT1KIT and there was no noticeable audio difference between a 2i2 and an xlr to 3.5mm cable with phantom power in the middle.

This is all you need to play from your phone or computer. Remember to start with the volume all the way down so you don’t blast yourself.

Cable Matters (1/8 Inch) 3.5mm to XLR Cable (XLR to 3.5mm Cable) Male to Male 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dINZBbMG6KCEP

Hey I know how to help with this! So you have to make sure the aux cord you have has three lines, one for left audio one for right audio and one for your mic.


If you look at the tip of the aux cord on the one you have there is probably only two black lines, meaning audio information from a mic wouldn't be able to travel through it.


You need an aux cord like this that has three black lines around the tip

Zeskit Braided Nylon 6 Feet Premium Audio Cable - 3.5mm, (Male to Female) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q16uCb6HPPQ8V

Obviously not that elegant a fix, but an extension should cover you while you shop around.

Honestly I don't know of any simple solution that doesn't involve a mixer, which are a little expensive. You can get one of these and then buy some of these. Then plug your switch into one input, your phone into another, and plug your headphones into the output. Then I'm not sure about the microphone, but at least you can hear both sources

It depends on the amp. If it has a headphone out or aux out, yes. Some amps have a 1/4" headphone out, which would require an adapter for the typical headphone.

You're going to need a 1/8 inch (3.5 mm) to 1/4 inch adaptor, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501715668&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5+mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

The M50x seems to come with 3.5mm cables. The scarlett seems to have a 1/4 input for headphones on the right. Will I need an adapter? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAVOW00/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VMQDY5N961JZ

Just because someone produces doesn't mean that they can DJ, and vice versa. Everything in this subreddit pertains to you, except for the music theory because presumably you already know it.

As already stated use the sidebar, wiki, and search function. Almost every question you have has been answered twice already (I promise).

My quick opinions on what you should get:

• Controller: You want a mid-range controller. Pioneer DDJ-SR or Traktor S4 are the best ones for your budget.
  
• Software: Depends on your controller but definitely use the software it was designed for. Avoid VDJ, Djay, and others. Get Mixed in Key and Spek as well.
  
• Music: Subscribe to a record pool. I like DJcity.
  
• Headphones: You're good. Buy an adapter if you don't already have one.

Something like this I think, if it let's you select line vs instrument level. Choose line (or mic). The TRS end should work.

UGREEN 6.35mm 1/4" Male to 3.5mm 1/8" Male TRS Stereo Audio Cable with Zinc Alloy Housing and Nylon Braid for iPod, Laptop,Home Theater Devices, and Amplifiers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5QzNBb105G6P2

Plug the Mixer via USB into the Computer.
Then plug the Mic into Channel One and do the adjustements of high/mid/low until you are satisfied with your voice (do recordings with Audacity for example). After that, turn the red knob (FX) full open on Channel One and every other red knob on the Channels 2 3/4 and 5/6 fully closed (0).
Then you have a choice:
If your Soundboard has a optical out, use this with a optical to analog converter to bring the sound from your PC to the Mixer. (Optical out -> Converter -> Line in 3/4 of the Mixer). Since I'm in Germany I can't give you the proper names for the cable, in german the cable from the converter to the Mixer is this: [cinch zu 6,3mm Klinke] (https://www.amazon.de/Stagg-STC6PCM-Twin-Kabel-Meter/dp/B004EBKV1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480056712&sr=8-1&keywords=cinch+kabel+zu+6%2C3mm).
If your board hasn't a Optical out, you need a cable like this plugged into your line out (green) of the Soundcard and the Line In 3/4 of the Mixer. Then go and configure your overall Sound (Voice, PC Audio) in OBS until you are satisfied. Your dedicated Sound Device should be your USB Mixer.
If you're done, plug a cable like this from the FX Send on the Mixer into your Mic In (red) of the Computer. In Discord/TS or your VOIP Software, use your Mic-In as the Microphone, not the USB Mixer, the volume of the Mic can be controlled with the red knob on Channel 1. And that's it...
OBS gets your full Sound with PC-Audio and Voice, but in the VOIP Software, only your Voice is heard.

I use this one. It's really quite simple but make sure you have a good power source for your pedals.

You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?


If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.


IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.

The Equipment

Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!


Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.


Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.


USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.


Total: $67-$75

The Setup

1. Cable one goes from the rear headphone out of the PC to 2/3 on the mixer. Set this as the default device.
   
2. Cable two goes from the front headphone out of the PC to 4/5 on the mixer. Set the programs you want to output here, Discord Skype Curse TS3 Spotify etc.
   
3. The RCA to 3.5mm cable goes from the 2-Track Output to the Line In on your PC, the baby blue port.
   
4. Go to the Line In properties on Windows. Check off the "Listen to this device" box, and make it only audible through your DAC/AMP. If you don't have a DAC/AMP make it only audible through the front headphone out on your computer.

Looks like that interface has a stereo input, so you'd need to daisy chain and sync your POs in order to record them at the same time (aux cable from output of one to input of the other).

Then you'd connect a cable like the one linked below to your POs output (sorry on mobile can't see a better way to link), and plug the white jack into the left input on your interface and the red jack into right input.

That ought to do it, your interface seems pretty old but assuming you have the right drivers etc it should be fine.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Interface-Instrument-Amplifier/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

You might want one of these for recording into audio interfaces or plugging into certain sound systems: 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4” Mono Y-Cable

Yes. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01552UGSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works. You have to do the following: 1) plug extension cable in the phone without headphone 2) insert headphone 3) enjoy

I got my cable here : http://m.ebay.com/itm/291852615425
However you can find one on Amazon as well here : Link

As far as custom goes, I think pexon pcs may be able to help you out there.

Then any of these cheap dongles wouldn't work (like this one) cause these don't have DACs. USB C type headphones on the other hand, do not use pins dedicated for analog audio and communicate with USB interface directly so that your device transports a digital stream instead along the cable that ends up in a DAC unit on a headphone/earphone itself.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Compatible-Smartphone-Headphones/dp/B01MU3TY2O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=headset+cord&qid=1562362185&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You need a cord like that. Count the black rings on the metal connector on the end that goes into the controller. If you only have two rings it's only for left and right audio. If you have 3 rings you have a mic channel too.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Compatible-Smartphone-Headphones/dp/B01MU3TY2O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3NR5U55E2AT1Q&keywords=3.5mm+to+3.5mm+male+to+male+4+pole&qid=1563890465&s=electronics&sprefix=3.5mm+to+3.5mm%2Celectronics%2C258&sr=1-3#customerReviews

Thanks for the information.

Sorry, I feel dumb.

I thought I created that cable already by adding this to this

What correct adapter do I attach to the cable I already bought?

I’m confused about the wishbone adapter.

Yes if you get a different cord they should work. I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf and they worked but there’s probably better cables out there.

For the best audio experience per dollar I think it's best to go with proper headphones and a mic attachment. This is my set-up: Philips SHP9500S HiFi Precision Stereo Over-ear Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CVw-Bb0YE7XTY and for the mic Aux Cable, Tsumbay Audio Cable with Microphone and in-line Control, 3.5mm Male to Male Cable Headphone Cable Premium Nylon Auxiliary Cord for Headphones, PS4, Home/Car Stereos (1m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LWw-BbMK5EC8V. I see that the headphones have been discontinued so they're super expensive now but the idea is that any pair of good headphones (with detachable 3.5mm cable) will do.

Thanks for your testing dude! Some follow ups, if I may;

I have the Ditto x2 which has the 2 inputs (mono ad stereo). According to them, what comes out one input comes out the same output. I tried the y-splitter like you suggested I used this and I can still only get the left channel to go through. (No matter which channel that is plugged into)

I am feeding it into an acoustic ag30 which has 2 separate inputs, I just feel like this set up it should be able to do 1, so I can save the other for a live affected mic. I have a small mixer and if you say that that is working without the problems then maybe I will play around with that.

I don't believe the mic needs phantom power so I feel it might be something with the transition cable. Like above I will try the mixer and report back.

You rock dude, thanks for your time and effort!

I am also considering simply utilizing 2 output jacks and having each pickup on entirely different systems.

I would then use this type of cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-STP203-Dual-Insert/dp/B000068O1P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407429166&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+cable+1%2F4%22

Each system would have independent controls and could be blended and mixed together using those systems.

How legitimate of an option does this sound?

If you wire the speaker outputs to the 1/4 inch inputs on the interface you will probably blow something. The headphone output would be the best option. You could use a cable like this directly.

Or this one is ten feet and only $2.

I just looked up TRS to RCA on amazon and found a bunch.

I just got a UMC204HD and a Schiit Magni 3 from a buddy and have never used something like these before. I have a question regarding what's the difference between these 3 cables when connecting the UMC204HD to the Magni 3.

• Dual RCA to Dual RCA
  
• Dual 1/4 TS to Dual RCA
  
• 1/4 TRS to Dual 1/4 TS
  
  Disregard the lengths I just want to know how these connections differ in regards to quality of sound and how they differ in regards to how the UMC204HD & Magni 3 communicate.

Hmm this is tricky, this is how I would do it based on what you provide.

• Take the audio out from the game sound PC by using the headphone output and using this kind of cable. Another cleaner path is using a USB audio interface like a Peavey USB-P. I would plug in to channels 11/12. If you're using something like a Peavey USB-P, you'll need to use two XLR cables and two mic channels on the mixer, be sure to pan hard LR when you use this route.
  
  
• You'll need a headphone amp that can provide more than one output, similar to something like a Behringer AMP800. Once you get that, plug in to the mixer via PHONES using this cable.
  
  
• Plug in the headset mic inputs to mic channels 1 & 2. If you know how to use the compressor, insert using this cable.
  
  
• Output the mixer via USB to your twitch streaming PC, set the mic to the mackie USB option.
  
  Am I missing anything?

There’s a few things you could do. What I think would be the easiest is getting two items, a dual mono to single balanced quarter inch “y” cable, like this one and plug it into a simple headphone amp like this for example

Weird. I would go into an iRig HD. Out of iRig via an insert cable (tip and ring - doesn't matter which side you use) into a Radial DI. Then XLR to the board. Never a single noise issue. The insert cable - IMO - is what really cut the signal problems.

Hosa Cable STP203 TRS To Dual 1/4 Inch Insert Cable - 9.75 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O1P/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_feD.ub0JY6AK2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O1P/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_feD.ub0JY6AK2

I'm using these

http://www.guitarcenter.com/Livewire/TRS-TRS-Balanced-Patch-Cable-330496.gc

For guitar to input

and something like this for amp to pedal:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501160768&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+interconnect

(mine looks different but says hosa audio interconnect on the wire).

I am able to plug this cable directly into the amp from my guitar without any issues.

I push it all the way in, then the light fades - I managed to get a sound out of it for like half a second this morning, but then it faded again.

Maybe I have the wrong cables? The pedal is brand new (as are the batteries) - I doubt it's the pedal itself.

We are using this cable. It works fine.

The one that was wired incorrectly is not part of our setup anymore. Instead we are using this.

Wow, I actually agree with PM for once, the original post seems greatly exaggerated. Go up with the instructor one more time, buy one of these and record you flight along with ATC audio and post it so we can hear it.
Recorder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOXNSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O35/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

y-cable / splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which GoPro do you have? In any case you can find ready made adapters that will get you your radio/intercom audio on the video but they're all way overpriced in my opinion (~$50). You can do it yourself for way cheaper. If you have an older GoPro that has a 3.5mm audio port you can just get something like this and this and you'd be all set. Just run the cable from the splitter into your GoPro mic port (if you don't have a passenger just plug the cable straight into that side for better audio and don't use the splitter). If you have a new GoPro like I do that has the USB mic port you'll need this too.

Full disclosure I haven't had an opportunity to try this yet in the airplane but I see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly.

I really think its something to do with the cable you are using to connect the splitter. When you tried the presonus, did you go into both R and L inputs? Are you using a 1/4 adapter? Is your cable TRS for sure at both ends?

It sounds to me like the cable you're using might be TS on one end. It needs to be TRS. For the Presonus you'll want one of these. For the Behringer you need one of these.

What I think you are using is one of these.

Amp: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54

Cans: www.amazon.com/HOSA-Stereo-4-Inch-Phone-Female/dp/B000068O5D

Looks like your specific interface does indeed restrict the headphones to output only the Line Out 1-2. So you'll need a headphone amplifier that will accept stereo balanced TRS line input, like a Samson Q5 or similar. You would then connect the 1/4" line outs 3-4 to this box, and then use this for your headphones.

You could probably get away with using a Behringer HA400 and connecting its input to your Line Out 3-4 using a TRS -> stereo TS y-cable. The only problem there is that the Behringer is expecting a headphone-level signal at its input, and your interface's line out 3-4 is much lower than a headphone signal. So you would have to crank the Behringer's volume up, increasing noise.

I see what you're talking about. I'm not so concerned about noise as I am about doing this in a weird/hacky roundabout way.

Why stereo? I get that it's nice, but you're going to double the number of buses used per channel, which seems pretty wasteful.
Or to put it another way, it makes more sense to have 16 completely separate monitor channels than it does to have 8 stereo channels and probably end up sharing them. The logic being, if you're running a large enough event to require 8 monitors, you'll probably eventually need more monitors or buses. It can be a major pain to re-route everything to make it work.


If you do somehow have 16 buses to spare, run them all into passive DI boxes via a gender changer adapter or cable (https://btpa.com/MIC3-XX.html for custom length female to female xlr) and use a TS 1/4in to 1/4 TRS (aka insert cable) to get your individual mixes. This usually works for passive DI boxes, almost never works with active boxes. You'll be buying 16 DI boxes (and probably a couple spares), 16 female to female XLR cables (and probably a couple spares) and 8 insert cables (aka 1/4in unbal to TRS, probably at least 1 spare).

Or, the other route is to use the Shure a85f in-line inpedance matcher (or similar) to get your XLR channels to 1/4in TS https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW, then use a Y adapter to get to TRS https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-117-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O54
I didn't bother to spec anything nicer than Hosa cabling here, you probably should look into something nicer if this is the route you take.

**


You can also try not using the DI boxes and losing the impedance matching. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Hard to tell on paper if you'll get away with it. I'd personally try one channel worth this way and if it works roll it out to the rest. It's a much simpler, single cable setup (although technically "wrong"). BTPA.com and others will make you custom cabling, and if your order is pretty large they'll work with you on price if you ask.

Basically you want to split your effect at the delay, add tremolo to the wet signal. After that you want to add the wet signal back to the dry and run them into your amp, right?
 
That is essentially running a parallel fx loop. You will need something like this to plug the wet and dry signals back into before continuing the chain into your amp.
 
This is assuming that you don't want your dry signal to also be effected by the tremolo, otherwise just put the tremolo after the delay to effect both the dry and wet signals.

these are cheaper than the splitters you will find on drumsplitters.com and work fine with TD-6v https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000068O54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

don't buy more than 2 since you can only split 2 inputs.

You could try something like a 1/4" breakout cable and run your output to an amp or powered speaker. You'd also want a couple of these.

Some TVs have an audio line-in jack. So, if you want to just keep using VGA and your TV has one, all you need is a cable with both ends male 3.5mm jacks (example here.

Another alternative is to get external computer speakers. The sound should be much better than both your computer and your TV. Added bonus: you should also be able to hook them up to your TV and use them even without the computer.

I haven't used these myself, but I use a similar type (cheap computer speakers with a sub). Even cheap ones often sound much better than what is coming out of the TV.

Honestly though, if the Chromecast at $35 is too expensive, then you might be in the wrong game. (Good) Media equipment is not known to be cheap.

I also want to point out that you can use this adapter with a 3.5 mm cable (Its like a male-male headphone cable) to play your ipod/mp3 through your amplifier. Assuming you don't have a line-in port.

You can find the male-to-male audio cable at any electronics place - Radio Shack, Fry's Electronics, or tons of places online... Amazon.com for instance. Here's one.

The radio should have a setting for "AUX" or auxiliary input. Use that setting. You will need to experiment with the volume of the phone's music player app and the volume of the speaker system to find the best setting for playing the music clearly at the level of volume you want.

I've done something similar with one of these and one of these. Works good, syncs with my iPhone.

I did a little Googling and found a quick and dirty way to accomplish this:

Connect your optical line to one of these.

Then, connect one of these things to it.

Finally, hook up one of these guys.

Hopefully that helps!

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like you need one of these adapters and one of these cables

I think I figured out your problem. If you have a Mid 2010 iMac, then you should have a Mini Display port in the back to hook up an external display. You're also probably using something like this from your computer to your HDMI cable. If so, then the audio will not work. The reason is because the Mini Display Port supports video only and has no way of sending audio through an HDMI cable. The Thunderbolt Port, which was introduced in the Mid 2011 iMacs, on the other hand supports both audio and video and can send them both through an HDMI cable. So for your situation, you need to hook up a separate audio line from your iMacs headphone jack to the TV with a 3.5mm to RCA cable. But since you said you're hooking it up to a Toshiba, their audio in ports are usually a 3.5mm audio jack (headphone jack) that says "PC/HDMI 1 IN (AUDIO)" above/on the side of it. That audio line input will only work with whatever PC port and HDMI port it's joined with. If you have a headphone jack instead of an RCA audio port on the back of your TV, then you'll and a 3.5mm to 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this. You can also get something like the Kanex iAdapt 51 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter that will take the video out (Mini Display Port) and Audio Out (headphone port) and merge them together so you only have one wire going to your TV. Hope that solved your problem. :)

Edit: I was doing some more research on the matter and found this. So according to Apple, some Mini Display Ports support both audio and video output but it all depend on the a) model mac you are using and b) if you have the right connection between your Mac and TV (I believe this is were "Kyeetza" got his answer from). So follow the links and see which model iMac you have if you're not certain and yeah. Hope it helps.

Most TVs should have Optical or Aux out, and then you would use a L7 to give a line out connection to your amp.

For the cable this is what you're looking for. This is the minimum you will need and probably all you will need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LMFS7M/ref=psdc_172544_t5_B000A3GPIS

For the headphone jack on the front of the recorder you might need this adapter. I have extras if you are in the USA I can send you one.

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

I'd guess that your headphone jack adapter is mono, not stereo, which would explain the sound coming out of only one side.

Luckily a stereo adapter shouldn't be too hard to get, something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.ca/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

Yup! Everything else should be in the box for you.

Your headphones will require a 3.5 to 1/4 converter like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

There are other ones on amazon, but this was the first to show for example.

you're going to need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

You should get studio headphones(you can also use anything else but those give the best sound imo), then you need one of these https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY , then you plug your headphone jack into that thing, and plug that into your amp. Your amp probably has an input where it says "PHONE" or "HEADPHONE". You plug it in there, turn your volume up and start jamming.

I just use a a standard 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter like this:https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY and it works fine.

I use something like this or the opposite of that 1/4" to 3.5mm depending on which cables im using at the time.

I use the no_cable patch and it works fine. USB cables may perform better, but ive never tried, and the cables I use work fine for practicing in RS and goofing off in session mode.

yea, I looked at the picture too. Just saw, tho, that it says "line 1" at the first input, and the stackexchange link I posted the guy said that most interfaces can deal with both line and mic level inputs.

So I think just take one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-mm-5FT-Stereo-Male-to-Male-M-M-Jack-Audio-Cord-Cable-PC-MP3-Adapter-/220929430795?hash=item33706b950b:g:6FgAAOxypthRxBlj

and one of these: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

and connect your amp's headphone out to the line1 input (the input looks unusual cos it takes both XLR and 7mm jacks, just plug the jack into the hole in the middle ^(THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!).

if you want/have to try the stereo thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Female-to-2-Male-Headphone-Mic-Audio-Y-Splitter-Cable-/371032023866 get this and 2 of the adapters (or a split thingy with 7mm jacks) and connect your amp's headphone out to both inputs - then you'll have one channel (of the 2 stereo channels) in each input, which you can then either record as one stereo track or 2 mono tracks in Cubase .

But definitely try to connect the headphone out to your PC/sound card's line in (cutting out the behringer) - if you like the sound that's way easier.

I'm not looking for headphones, but I don't feel like this deserves its own thread. I want to plug in my Sennheiser Momentum IEMs into my Magni 2 because I want to use them to listen to music on my PC and the cable doesn't reach my computer. Plus I like the volume dial.

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

Here is the mobile version of your link

People may argue with me, but you can have great results going from you computer's 3.5mm unbalanced output to the 1/4-inch inputs on the speakers. You'll need a splitter cable like this (and maybe a 1/4-inch extension). Unless you have long cable runs to the speakers (more than 10 ft or so) there will be no quality difference. I'm assuming your computer has a decent sound output. If it's a Mac it probably does. The DAC you linked to would need RCA to 1/4-inch cables (NOT XLR to 1/4-inch cables cables) but that would also work.

While correctly configured XLR cables are less likely to pick up noise, that's not likely where your noise will be coming from. Your key word is setup. The correct way to set up any powered speaker is to turn your computer (or whatever source you're using) volume all the way up, then set the volume on each speaker to be as loud as you normally listen. When you turn the volume down at the speakers, that turns down the noise, too. When you turn it down at the computer, the noise stays. That's why this is the best way to do it. These speakers have a sensitivity switch, too. Start with +4 dBu. If that isn't loud enough, change to the -10 dBV setting.

You can use an app your phone to measure the volume. About 90 dB at your listening position is about as loud as you should listen for any extended period of time.

Hope this helps.

Ground loop, not sure what that is? Why not just 3.5mm straight to the speakers with a 3.5mm Y to XLR?

EDIT: This. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CYX-403M-XLR3M-Stereo-Breakout/dp/B000068OEP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491337535&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+3.5mm+y+cable+male+xlr

or

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Y-Cable-Splitter-Cord/dp/B0062QPERU/ref=sr_1_11?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491337591&sr=1-11&keywords=3.5+mm+TRS+to+Dual+1%2F4+inch

If you wanted to do the 1/4 inch instead of XLR

I suspect the dialogue is missing because the XLR input is expecting a balanced signal. What you'll want to do is break out the 3.5mm stereo cable to a pair of 1/4" mono plugs, using something like this, and run those to the subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062QPERU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have these plugged into a sound card audio out with no issues. No reason not to get 2, unless you really want mono sound.

u/astallasalion, if you're willing to help I could use a bit of advice for what cables/splitters I need to get these running.

I've never bothered with quality sound before or external speakers. At the suggestion of a colleague, I picked up two MkII 305's a couple of weeks ago and now I'm in a bit over my own head. I'm using them for my new PC build, which I'm about to buy the parts for. I'll likely be using an Aorus X570 Master motherboard in the build.

Since I'm running two 305s, will I be good to go if I buy a set of cables, like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062QPERU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, and just plug the Right/Left TRS jack into the 305s and then the 3.5 jack to the motherboard? Or is there something more/different I need to do? If it's just the y-splitter cables, are the ones I linked good enough for this purpose? (They were linked in this thread, which is why I mentioned them.)

Thanks for your help!

This is actually very similar to the setup I currently have, and you have 2 options here to get the console audio into OBS (assuming that's what you use).

1. Just take the audio from the HDMI cable through your Live Gamer HD, it will appear in the mixer when you add the Live Gamer HD as a source.
   
   
2. This is what I'm currently doing. If you want to explicitly control the console audio through the mixer, I use a 3.5mm to dual mono 6.35mm cable (like this) that goes from your monitor/TV headphones out port to one of your mixer's line inputs.
   
   Hope that helps! If you have any other questions just reply to this comment and I'll try help out.

You can use your current setup - just get a cable like this to plug into the DI(s):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062QPERU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1421822263&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

The venue will take care of getting signal to FoH. It'll just be a couple of XLR's into their stage-box, but you won't have to worry about that part.

Those are active monitors so a receiver isnt necessary. They are powered already. If you go the monitor route the JBLs are much better speakers.

You'll need this cable at the least to start out
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062QPERU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453320297&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=stereo+trs&dpPl=1&dpID=41giV7MtWQL&ref=plSrch

OR you could find a receiver that has PRE-OUT outputs. Then essentially it's just a preamp. Id look for Denon AVR receivers or equivalent such as the 2105 since you can generally find them for pretty cheap. That way you bypass the noisy circuitry on your computer If there is audible noise AND be able to hook up a subwoofer through the receiver later.

Also be aware though. Monitors have a flat frequency response and that may sound "boring" to you.

i doubt you can bypass it via the speakers.

these plug into the laptop headphone socket? if the problem is that you want the choice of speaker or headphone away from the laptop, then you could get an extension cable like this http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-iMBA-PS-06MF-6-Feet-Plated-Extension/dp/B009UEBQIM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405195310&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2C5+headphone+extension between your laptop and the speakers (so the speaker cable is coiled up) and then switch between headphones and speakers on that (if that makes sense).

If you want to keep the stock look and add an iPod & AUX interface, I suggest something like this.

I found that this worked best for my 2003 Explorer Sport that lacked those options. Keeps everything stock and works flawlessly.

This is the one I bought and used. I added a RCA -> Aux converter to get the aux cable set up and then mounted the female end of this in my center console.

If your handy with a soldering iron your best bet may be to add your own extension to the cable so that it's the exact length you need. It really isn't difficult, even if you've never soldered before, and doesn't take much time at all. That would be the easiest way to ensure the signal stays as pure as possible. That being said, I've used this brand for an extension from my phone on my couch to my stereo system across the room and it's worked well enough for me that there's no discernable difference.

Just get a 3.5mm extension cable and call it a day.

http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-iMBA-PS-06MF-6-Feet-Plated-Extension/dp/B009UEBQIM/

If you're right next to your PC and you already have a pair of headphones you can use, why not get a standalone microphone and use the headphones you already have?

I know a guy who uses these lapel mics so he can use whatever headphones he wants. They're dirt cheap and i can understand him just fine. If you want a longer cord get a headphone extension for less than $10. Only downside is the extra cord.

Use this with any pair of headphones.

iMBAPrice iMBA-PS-06MF 6-Feet Gold Plated 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Extension Stereo Audio Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009UEBQIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3aIzwbXE3CD31

If you put your phone in your pants pocket with your headphones plugged in and the plugs are straight (right side), then you're messing up the jack. Get headphones with a L jack or get a short extension and plug them in that way.

Sometimes the jacks wear out or the plug isn't tight enough. You can get a short extension cable like this.

I experienced this issue with earphones only. It doesn't happen anytime. I am going to do a factory reset and I also ordered this as recommended elsewhere in this sub.

Lots of posts about this. The simplest solution is to use an extension to your earplug/headset cord. I use this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C, and it works 100% of the time. So will any other TRRS cable: Note the 4 metal areas on the plug, separated by 3 plastic rings. That's all it takes! I also picked the dustball out of the jack using a straight pin.

To follow up, I bought this one, from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/

It does the job nicely. Everything works, left/right headphone speakers and the mic. No different than when directly connected to the controller. Now the headphone cable doesn't get bent when I hold the controller close.

If you don't need the inline volume and mute options with the cable, any 3.5mm trrs male to 3.5mm trrs male should do the trick, providing the connector housing is slim and fits into the slot.

This looks like it would fit (based on a trs cable that that looks about that size and fits into mine), but this looks like it might be too bulky to fit the slot.

Bit of a price difference between those, but you should be able to find something cheaper with that slim type connector.

what other cables does it have with it? the 3.5 mm to RCA does not support microphones. The white and red RCA cables are for left and right channels.

based on a video review i just looked at now for those, it seems you need something like this to get it working off a phone with the mic. there also seems to be a cable that goes into USB for use with a PC. but also you can use the cable i linked above with an adapter like this

Your 3.5mm cable needs to have three rings at the end of it.

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421542346&sr=1-4&keywords=3.5+mm+audio+cable+3+ring


That should work with a headset that has a mic

Did you see this one?

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW

You want 4 pole (which has 3 rings). 4 pole has left audio, right audio, ground, and mic. Also known as TRRS (tip, ring, ring, sleeve).

Yo, I think I also found what you're looking for on amazon.

It's a 2x TRRS(mic+audio) aux cable and comes with Prime if you have it. Hope this helps.

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW

The cable you want is a "TRRS male to dual TRS male." Unfortunately, this isn't very common (I've failed to find any with Google) since it's not very universal as compared to having one side be female. Instead, you can get a TRRS male to male and a TRRS female to dual TRS male. You don't need to specifically get those ones btw, cheaper is fine, so long as it doesn't look completely like trash.

Do the speakers also have a 3.5mm TRS plug like your headphones? Or are they only connected to the computer via USB?

If they're USB-only, they should have their own separate device in the Sound window, and you could probably use Audio Router to accomplish what you want.

If they have a 3.5mm TRS plug, the software for your sound card is in charge of deciding which jack the audio goes to, so if it doesn't have an option to duplicate the output to multiple jacks, you can't do it, but you could just use a splitter to accomplish the same thing.

That's a little bit more on the tricky side.

Unless Sony has started to allow their music player to function while streaming, which for all I know they could have(you'll have to play around with that yourself), your best option is to get a Male-to-2xFemale 3.5mm splitter cable, and merge the audio from a second device into your mic input. Or, if you're still going to go the silent route, just plug your iPad/laptop directly into the mic jack.


I recommend not playing any licensed music for what should be obvious reasons, even if it's just for friends, but there are plenty of resources for free, royalty-free music out there.

To be more explicit, they really, really don't like you using licensed music. If Twitch detects licensed music, it will totally mute the audio for as long as the song plays, when you play the archive back, and you run the risk of being reported and having the stream shut down. YouTube is even more aggressive and will totally kill your stream, sometimes permanently, and if it manages to slip through, the VOD will be plastered with ads and be subject to takedowns.

I recommend FreeMusicArchive, I've found a lot of amazing tracks on there, albeit with a bit of digging. The license conditions should be followed, i.e. attribution, and I personally have a list of all music I use when streaming when I go live, but nobody is really going to check that unless you intentionally go way out of your way to offend the artist.

https://www.amazon.de/KabelDirekt-3-5mm-Adapter-Stecker-Buchse/dp/B00GN76HAG

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.
   
   
2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.
   
   I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.
   
   Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:
   
   Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWcxCbK4KWTBN
   
   3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI88X32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.
   
   You might try something like this:
   
   Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0cxCbPH562B6
   
   So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS
   
   

• good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/

http://www.amazon.de/KabelDirekt-Adapter-3-5mm-Stecker-Buchse/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459182780&sr=8-1&keywords=Audio+Splitter

You should be able to run both, but the problem is that only one device can be used for playback (audio output) and a seperate /the same device can be used for recording (audio input). I don't think you can use two devices to output audio at the same time, possibly with some software you could, but a simpler solution would be a splitter, that splits a single 3.5mm sterio audio signal output into two, it's a small cable. I use one to have both my headset and speakers plugged into my single soundcard output simultaneously.

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Female/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=sr_1_15/146-3666932-9128304?ie=UTF8&qid=1498065709&sr=8-15&keywords=3.5mm+splitter

You should be able to use something like this I BELIEVE if you want to be able to do both sounds at the same time:
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Pro-Stereo-Splitter-Headphones/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540925124&sr=8-5&keywords=1%2F8+y+splitter+stereo

​

Combined with a coupler (change that male end to female) then two male to male 1/8th inch stereo wires (to essentially turn the females back to males).

​

Haven't tried anything like this in a LONG time, can't promise it will work well but in theory it should

USB sound card -> Headphone cable splitter, done.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
+
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Pro-Stereo-Splitter-Headphones/dp/B00GN76HAG/

(both were just first hits on Amazon, feel free to choose similar device replacements).

Startech is a low end brand, its likely its just noisy. its not intended to be super high quality or anything.

at least something with the 15 cents worth of gold plating on it. like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG?tag=quake-vlab-20

Yes. My alternative is the G6 which I intended to use with my xbox initially. I bought it before noticing the E5's issue. So now it naturally replaced the E5's role as the main audio processor for my PC's setup.

I think E5 is the only model that has two 3.5mm output jacks. To solve this problem I simply get a Y splitter like this one here: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GN76HAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3.5mm Y splitter off your soundcard. One side to your speakers, the other to your vest. - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GN76HAG/

I use tactile transducers in my simpit chair, and getting audio to the amp that drives the transducers was fairly straightforward using SteamVR audio mirroring and the Y splitter.

ok so. mic comes with xlr to xlr. plug that to



neewer 48v https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014H8AWGC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3A00RPL943XFO


to

preamp https://www.amazon.com/ART-TubeMP-Tube-Microphone-Preamp/dp/B0002GZZNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485455414&sr=8-1&keywords=ART+Tube+Preamps


preamp to xlr / 3.5mm :https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-5mm-Inch-Feet/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485456129&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+xlr



to 3.5 mm female to two female : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFPYYCG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2JSBUBRVPP4SX

both 3.5mm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EA77952/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Y2JY7NYB2QUH


to devices? Like that?

On the audio note, one of these will probably do, but I don't know if you'll have any quality loss or additional noise because of it. But that cable will plug right into the input on the side of the Zoom

For your EU question, that's surprising because they have a drop down right on the product page where you can select a European AC adapter.

For the JBLs, yes, you purchase 2. For the cable, you need to split 3.5mm into two, then buy two of these. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-5mm-Inch-Feet/dp/B00QMITC7G?th=1 note that this might not be the best price, it was the first result on Amazon for me.

As for noise, some can't even hear it. I'm not sure how good your critical listening skills are.

Running an AUX/Line Level signal (aka one from a phone/laptop) into a mic input isn't best SOP, but it is doable - you'll want a cable like this - just be careful not to have the output on the laptop or any of the volume controls on the PA turned up too loud or you'll damage the system.

Can you link the details of the PA/manual you're using please, there may be a better solution.

Will this cable work with my google chromecast? I may want to use both mono and stereo.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G

Actually, just for good measure, here's the cable I use between my phone and the H6:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Ok, I have two harbinger v2115 speakers(https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2115-multipurpose-loudspeaker/), 1 v2215 speaker (https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2215-multipurpose-loudspeaker-15-inch/). I am using this 3.5mm->xlr cable (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G) and these xlr cables to connect from the output of one speaker to the input of another (https://www.amazon.com/MCSproaudio-XLR-CABLE-25FT-Microphone/dp/B00O5EKZ9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=4J81770V8E55&keywords=xlr+cable&qid=1556327488&s=gateway&sprefix=xlr&sr=8-11)

True. I've been using a h1 zoom recorder i have for a mic that i didn't purchase for pc voip(but it works great). If didn't have that i would use this mic with this to keep under 200.

there are a few ways depending on what recorder you're using; lets break down the 2 options

Option 1-
The H1 Route - http://amzn.to/2fQdkCW ($91)
XLR to TRS 3.5 cable - http://amzn.to/2gLdfoC ($10)

This route is pretty simple, the cable will connect to the sound board via XLR, join that to the 3.5 entry of the zoom, record, keep track of levels, do a sound check from the mic they'll be using to see if it's connected, this path will cost you $101

Option 2-
The H4 Route - http://amzn.to/2gNcB7T ($189)
XLR male to female - http://amzn.to/2fQgmY0 ($7)

Simple as well, connect xlr cable from DJ's board to your recorder; the h4 allows greater control of levels and organization.

this will cost you $196.

It's pretty simple, definitely get there early, talk to the DJ and dj's are always happy to walk you through it (at least the one's i've worked with)

If you want to see more of our gear, check us out at www.indiemarchfilm.media

Hope this helps!

Thanks a ton for the reply, I'm definitely looking into Craig/DC. Quick (newbie) question, what is the advantage of the dual XLR cable over just the single input one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMITC7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know about your m50's but in the meantime you could get something like this for your SE215's.

No problem! I think that's what I am going to do once it comes back in stock on Amazon. Something like this would do the trick, right?

Hey all. I couldn't find anything about this in any of the listed posts, though perhaps I'm blind. I'm looking to replace the cable on my Superlux 668-B as it's torn to hell from my chair wheels (I'm going to be hanging a Command hook next to my desk to remedy that issue in the future) and near the top (close to where it plugs into the headphones) it seems to have cracked/torn/whatever and the wires inside the big tubing are now exposed -- see here | and here

I have one I'm looking at, but was hoping I could possibly find something a little cheaper, or just get some suggestions from those of you who probably know what to look for better than I do.

Here's the cable I'm currently considering.

----

• Budget - $10, hard limit.
  
  
• Source - My computer (FX6800-01e with stock motherboard and soundcard), my iPhone 5S, and my Visual Land Prestige 10 (Android Tablet). (I specify these because the informational post mentioned that different devices have different outputs that can affect the sound, or something to that effect. I'm not an obnoxious in-your-face hipster, I promise! :P)
  
  
• Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - Yep. I do have a cheapo short cable with a plastic tubing, which I currently use for in-public use.
  
  
• Preferred tonal balance - I don't think this is relevant to the cable, but I want as neutral of a sound as I can get.
  
  
• Cable Preferences - Nylon tubing, metal connector cover or.. whatever the hell you'd call that piece. (The part that says Zeskit in the link I posted.)
  
  Edit: Formatting.

Not sure if something like this is what you meant, but for 8 bucks you could get a 6 foot extender from zeskit. Good quality and feel. I have one that I use with my superlux HD-668B's and I really like it.
Edit: the link didn't show up, here it is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q2F1xbBJAEHYX

Last year ordered mine straight from concept 2 website, $5 + $8 shipping, it was cheaper than the seller who had it on amazon at the time, I don't remember exactly how long it took to be delivered but it wasn't too long
http://shop.concept2.com/parts/353-smartphone-cradle-for-pm3-pm4-and-pm5.html

looks like amazons third party seller is about 99 cents higher, but maybe quicker delivery
https://www.amazon.com/LiveRowing-Concept-Rowing-Machine-Smartphone/dp/B01GIHWWU4

I bought a pair of $150 (jaybird) bluetooth earbuds a couple years ago, but they died out pretty quick and didn't sound as good nor was the volume as loud as wired. Now it seems the market is flooded with bluetooth earbuds full of marketing reviews, I don't trust them. the battery is going to have a limited lifespan and the amp in the bluetooth headphones will never have as good of a sound output as wired earbuds

while rowing I have ErgData running and listen to audiobooks and on my phone using this extension for my wired earbuds, it's okay...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1R7F2U/

I let the extension drop to the ground under the foot rests, then run my earbud cable down inside my shirt exiting on my right hip area and plug it into the extension cable. I've never had an issue with it getting tangled. I then used a small piece of duct tape to tape the earbud cable to my t-shirt collar so the earbuds don't pull out of my ear while rowing, before I used the duct tape it would get annoying because the rowing motion would eventually pull the earbud out of my ear after a couple minutes, now with the tape I have some slack between my collar and ears for the cable and they stay in during the my rowing session.

The headphone jack on the Switch is still active and works while docked. You could get an extension cable or two and sit comfortably away.

I’m impressed with how fast you responded! Thank you :) ya I’m fine with soldering and was planning on having to do it. Curious, if you don’t mind answering, can any 4 pole 3.5 mm wire work? Like this one from amazon? (I would strip one end off and then solder.)

Zeskit 6 Feet Premium Audio Extension Cable, Nylon Braided, 3.5mm TRRS 4 Poles Jack (Male to Female) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1R7F2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yhVDCbDRKMNHD

Connect the headset to a 4-pole Y-splitter (three black rings on the connector), the Y-splitter and PC to a headphone splitter and then the headphone splitter to the controller. I think the cable going from the headphone splitter to the controller also has to have a 4-pole connector. So just replace the headphone splitter's 3-pole 3.5mm cable with a 4-pole 3.5mm cable. If the headset cable terminates in one and not two connectors, I think you can use a 4-pole 3.5mm cable instead of the Y-splitter so that it's less clunky. The cable going from the headset to the headphone splitter would need one male connector, which connects to the headphone splitter, and one female connector, which connects to the headset cable, like this.

Hah yep I use pretty much the exact same type of speaker for this. It's just a crosley radio (no bluetooth) with aux in, though.

So yeah I would do the Schiit stack then get a RCA to 3.5mm cable like this or this which would feed from the back of the Vali to the B2. If you're not wanting to listen to it through the speaker you can just turn off the B2, or select a different input (bluetooth?).

Alternatively, you could skip the RCA output and just use a 3.5mm male to female aux cable + 1/4in adapter out of the headphone output.. which would go to an Aux cable you leave connected to the B2. Just switch between that aux cord and your headphones out of the headphone port.

I just use the headphone output, but as I type this I remember I saw I had a RCA to 3.5mm cable last night so might switch it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MFM5CbEW68TS0 like this?

I use something similar to these out of my VDrum module, and this 3.5mm extension to give me extra play room.

Nothing special, cheap and gets the job done.

For budget:
(All can be bought on amazon)

Mic:

Shure pga48,
Or
Shure sm58.

Pre-Amp:

Behringer Xenyx 502 or 802

Obviously the more you spend the better the value, but any of these should get you a pretty high price/performance in my opinion.

You’ll also need an xlr cable if the mic doesn’t come with one and something like this so you plug standard headphones in:

https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4&qid=1569969295&sprefix=3.5&sr=8-3

If you have unlimited money to spend, then a sennheiser e945 and an rc505 are going to future proof your beatboxing career.

Should be all you need, good luck!

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

You could just use these...

Thank you for the long and detailed reply!

I've connected mixer via two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and both my headset and mic are connected via these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAVOW00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The PS4 is connected via USB and automatically detects the mixer, but I have no way of changing the volume levels.

​

My sound card only has one line in which is also the mic port I believe.

Cool. Thanks a bunch for the information. Very helpful!

Does it matter what type of audio cables I buy e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ugreen-Housing-Theater-Devices-Amplifiers/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485353798&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+mm+to+3.5+mm

I've always used one of these when recording directly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KKcDzb2Q97DTJ

How are you dropping the 1/4 inch output on the guitar to the 1/8 inch mic jack? Are you using one of those <$10 adapters from Amazon?

So what I bought was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y-C6Cb0MJW91S

When what I should have bought was this and then plug each big plug into one channel each: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gaD6Cb8PCC022

Does the speaker itself need to be portable? If not just get a single active monitor. You can just buy a big to small headphone cable and you are away.

I'd say this is the best you could get for you budget and yes they do sound very good for the money.

That sucks! I found mine hiding in the original box. Here it is on Amazon, you might be able to find one at your local guitar shop too :)

It has been covered, but most phones have TRRS - Tip/Ring/Ring/Sleeve jacks like this -

https://www.amazon.com/BesYee-2-Pack-Headphone-Adapter-90degree/dp/B0177EU61E/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1480125903&sr=8-11&keywords=TRS+3.5mm

Most Stereo only plugs have TRS - Tip/Ring/Sleeve -

https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Housing-Theater-Devices-Amplifiers/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1480125903&sr=8-10&keywords=TRS+3.5mm

The Sleeve is always ground. The Tip and the first Ring are Left and Right Stereo channels.

In the TRRS, you have left/right and an extra ring for the microphone, and of course the Sleeve for ground.

If you plug a TRS plug into a TRRS jack, the lower extra Ring (mic) is shorted to ground.

Yes. I own them. You would need a 3.5mm to TRS adapter to plug them up to your computer: https://.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/

You might not be able to find them in a shop because there is now a newer model out.

1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm (1/4)" Maybe something like this.

This one should do it for you.

interesting, I am not sure what "breakout" means in this context but is this cable the same type?

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00ZKM3SHK&pd_rd_w=dPGBO&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=otmNM&pf_rd_r=B0RH72JX9RYWEWDAR9RC&pd_rd_r=11cde9c4-eb48-496b-92f9-4318a623ecd6&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzR1RIVlhEQ09ZRk0zJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTk1NzAxM0NNWDNBUFdYWlRZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4Njk4ODYxNTZJQkpVTUxGUFBXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

I am asking cause I am not located in the US, and it will be difficult for me to order on the US amazon, I Need to understand what this cable exactly is to order such in my country

Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.

Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.

This appears to be the same product on the UK site.

This appears to be the same product on the French site.

This appears to be the same product on the German site.

OK, I'm done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=pe_2640190_232748420_pd_te_o_gr_ti/132-8775718-7912203?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZKM3SHK&pd_rd_r=0X47XFXPKVBHTYF83D43&pd_rd_w=WXXK7&pd_rd_wg=UOZcZ

I think I just received one of what you want from Amazon, if I understand you correctly. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I probably paid too much, but I was too lazy to shop around.

Exactly. something like this would work

I'd recommend FosPower (4 Inch) 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Auxiliary 4-Conductor TRRS Stereo Audio Extension Cable [24K Gold Plated Connectors] for Apple, Samsung, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_VuAw35yDZua9S

Sorry for not using the tech support sticky but would this one do the job: https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Extension-Connectors/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484356311&sr=8-9&keywords=TRRS&th=1?

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Smartphones-Microphone/dp/B016AHYRNW/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518731834&sr=1-6&keywords=3.5mm+female+to+male

or

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Extension-Connectors/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518731834&sr=1-5&keywords=3.5mm+female+to+male

?

I'd rather recommend a short extension cable, like this. Barrel-type adaptors will put unnecessary stress on a phone's headphone socket.

FosPower (4 Inch) 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Auxiliary 4-Conductor TRRS Stereo Audio Extension Cable [24K Gold Plated Connectors] for Apple, Samsung, Motorola, HTC, Nokia, LG, Sony & More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tIpTybE9X88Z7

Yeah I've had a commuter on my past two phones. I like them, but they are a bit bulky. I also feel like they may have gone down in quality. My first one on the Droid Charge was rock solid and the plastic/rubber didn't peel away or crumble. The one I had more recently seemed like they lowered the quality of rubber or plastic they use because it didn't feel as nice at all. At least not nice enough to justify the cost.

What I'll probably do it get a nice one I like, and get something like this

I got one of these in order to fix it, had the same issue:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01552UGSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will prob get it fixed via warranty the time i change phone, too much of a hassle atm since I bought it from ebay (asian version)

Still stuck with only one side working. Made sure to comment out "USE_I2C ?= yes" in the rules.mk file as I'm running serial. Red and green lights are lit up on both pro micros. Soldering of jumpers looks identical to /u/wootpatoot build guide pics. Using TRRS cable from Amazon

edit: I'm not exactly sure what it means to enable "define EE_HANDS" - I tried removing the #, but got an error "unknown type name 'define'" when I try to make a new hex. Is this where I'm messing up? figured out commenting out in .h files is to use // - no luck with it enabled or commented out and I've read all posts I can find on this issue. I'm soooooo close. It's been 4 nights in a row. I can almost taste the split...

edit: not sure if this helps troubleshooting, but when I connect to my righthand board directly all of the keys work except the 5th column (column with P at the top). Does this mean I have a soldering issue that could also be causing the disconnect between boards? https://imgur.com/gallery/7L7v8

What are some good TRRS cables like this one?

You can buy it here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

glad I could help.

This is the cable I am about to order. From the comments, it looks like others have used it for this purpose, so it should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2GSG8HYTBG5UW

I am using this one

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TRW4HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also tried it with my ergodox cable, same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola-x/dp/B01M5CVB54

We're discussing the Pixel series.

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

Problem solved. If it's anything like my HTC U11 or the iPhone, it'll come with one in the box.

There are also adapters like this: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Connector-Converter-Charging-Motorola/dp/B0714DYLW4

Don't know how good these are or if they affect the sound quality. But the problem is that you are forced to use these. Especially the 2 in 1 thingy is just clunky.

If they are going to remove the headphone jack, they really really need to add a second USB C port. I don't think too many people would have issues using a 3.5mm to USB C adapter.

No problem. Looks like there's a lot of people throwing a fit over an 8 dollar cable, and knowing Google they'll include one in the box with a pair of USB C earbuds.

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

The adapter is 0 dollars, its included free. Otherwise for extra adapters it's 9 bucks. If you bought several recent android phones without a headphone jack it looks like it's about 5-6 bucks for iffy quality on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

Except this exists.

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

You don't have to use bluetooth. Spend a couple bucks on a usb-c to 3.5mm audio jack adapter, and just leave that on the end of the audio cable in your car.

USB-C to headphone adapter?

Or a Bluetooth AUX adapter...

People seem to make huge deals about this type of stuff when it's really nothing...

Any 4 pole aux cable should do... This is the top one on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Headphones-Smartphone-Tablets/dp/B01MU3TY2O

Based on this, it's just a TRRS 3.5mm to TRRS 3.5mm. Something like this should fit.

You need to switch out the 3.5mm cord. The cord is only connecting audio to the transmitter. It needs one that will transmit audio & voice.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU3TY2O

Maybe a 3.5 3-ringed aux cable would work. https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Smartphone-Tablets-Headphones/dp/B01MU3TY2O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ABZXQ27SMBB6PP4T77SR

>er built in that works when you have it wirelessly connected to PC, on the right ear there is a little dial that you can turn up for more game volume and down for more party volume. This dial doesn't work when the headset is plugged into the xbox one controller, on the left ear there is another dial for straight up volume that does work but the chat mixer only works through the xbox os itself when plugged in. Keep in mind i haven't really made any effort to try and get the wireless to work with xb1

I cannot get mine to work. Any advise? I have the same headset (Steelseries Artic 7 Pro wireless) and its connected to my main PC that is 10 feet away from Xbox One. When I plug the cord into the controller and Headset, the game audio works but no chat (test = record Xbox message and play back (its blank)).

​

Things I've thought of trying:

- Is it the 3.5mm cord that i have? [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU3TY2O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]

- Disconnect headset from computer by unplugging wireless device...

So my work won’t let me spend $30 on an aux cable. I found this on amazon. Would you recommend the beats replacement over these?

Aux Cable, Tsumbay Audio Cable with In-line Remote, Microphone 3.5mm Male to Male Cable Premium Nylon Auxiliary Cord for Car, Headphone, iPhone, Computer, PS4, Home Stereo Gaming Devices (1m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pL2KAbCV62EQ2

I use the Superlux 681 EVO with this . One of the main complaints against these headphones is they break easy, but Ive had no problem with mine. They are also semi open back, so no isolation and a bit of noise leakage. As a result they have a stellar soudstage (good for footsteps) and they also have good sound.

Edit: suck at formating but I also use this.

https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Headphone-Auxiliary-Headphones/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540311332&sr=8-4&keywords=aux+cable+with+microphone

I believe this is what you are looking for. Can't comment on how well it works (you may get mic feedback from the speaker) I have one for my phone to hook up to my car stereo. it basically is an aux cable with a microphone build in. so you will get audio out of your speaker and the mic in the cable will pick up sounds for chat

https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Headphone-Auxiliary-Headphones/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=inline+mic&qid=1556550469&s=gateway&sr=8-5

What cables are you using to connect your soundcard to your modular? Are they TRS-to-TRS? For ease-of-use, you should just use TS-to-TS.

A simple audio cable should be what you are looking for. Amazon has them for like 4 bucks. http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-AUD-1100-06-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000SE6IV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370387469&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Adapter-Stouch-Female-Motorola/dp/B01M5CVB54

Problem solved.

The 3.5mm optical cable cable is digital-only. It can't convert a digital signal to an analog one. The combination port also carries an analog signal for a 3.5mm miniplug stereo TRS or miniplug stereo + mic TRRS, but those are capabilities of the port hardware, not the cable.

Edit: I reread the question, and I get that you're looking for the jack hardware. No idea about that, sorry.

Type C to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter for Moto Z, Stouch Moto Z Type C Port to 3.5mm Female Audio Jack Headphone Cable Adapter for Motorola Moto ZBlack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5CVB54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EN2GzbAADB8W7

Hope you have $6