(Part 3) Best usb hubs according to redditors
We found 2,359 Reddit comments discussing the best usb hubs. We ranked the 355 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Keep everything connected to one of these adapters and just connect the device to your laptop. It is essentially a breakout box and will make your life much easier. Not sure if that is the best one out there though.
Shopping list:
2x USB-A to Micro USB B (3ft/.9m)
UGREEN USB Hub (3ft cable)
USB-A to Micro USB B (6in/15cm)
USB hub goes to the frunk port. Cable sleeved under shirt. USB hub strapped to the belt for the hip tracker right next to hip tracker (I did it with a velcro strap). 6in/15cm cable from hub to hip tracker. Both 3ft/.9m cables going from hub to each foot tracker sleeved under the pants. Relevant leg reveal: https://i.imgur.com/duMn6kA.jpg (USB hub was not plugged in)
Each charger in the picture has an orange light, which means they're charging. At the time of taking the picture they were at about 75% charge and after checking in 20 minutes later they were fully charged (white light). Tested my setup in VR, works flawlessly. Feeling of cables being there is minimal, maybe because my hairy legs keep the cables from touching my skin. Laying down is as comfortable as usually is with full-body. No additional weight can be felt.
Conclusion: A cheaper and in my opinion more comfortable solution than charging your trackers with a powerbank. Lets you be more active as well (don't have to worry about the powerbank falling out of your pocket and don't feel its weight anymore). Playing with full-body for as long as you want is now possible (that is, until your controllers die :P).
UPDATE: I had a 4 1/2 hour session with this setup tonight and my trackers never dropped below 100% charge. BIG downside to this though... and that is when you need to go to the bathroom. You gotta unplug the hub from the frunk then unplug the feet trackers then take off the belt before you can use the toilet, I take the feet trackers and the cables for them with me and the belt and hub I leave in my room. It's still worth it though!
I was getting blue screens and static audio blasting at extremely arbitrary times until i used this cord:
BATIGE USB 3.0 & HDMI to HDMI + USB3.0 AUX Extension Dash Panel Waterproof Car Flush Mount Cable for Car Boat and Motorcycle (6ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4FX3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3E2VDb2VKXV9G
And using this usb hub between the HMD and the extension cord above:
Plugable USB Hub, 10 Port - USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JEPIOOQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's not the prettiest setup but I'm particularly proud that it is not ceiling hooks and retracting dog leashes.
I needed to be much more exact with the ceiling mounts, the cord hangs low when playing
The issue hasn't reoccured and I have gotten to finally play long enough to see a glaring cpu bottleneck
You just beat me to it! :)
This works well until PiOE becomes a reality!
There are tons of these on amazon. Seems like they're just getting the same one from china and slapping their logo on it.
Here's one with a fan: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Tinytendo-Raspberry-Model-Cooling/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511984145&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+snes
I bought this for my MacBook Pro, and probably the first thing I'm gonna do when I get my iPad pro is see if it works on that, too
802.3af/at is coming down in price to where you can get it at a reasonable price even for consumers. In fact just recently I purchase an 802.3af to USB splitter for less than $20. Now I can power my Raspberry Pi (albeit downclocked) off my POE switch.
Long term, the standards are better because it wont matter who you buy what from - it'll all work together. No true home user understands any of these PoE and Faux-PoE standards, nor do they want to.
https://www.amazon.com/WT-AF-5v10w-802-3af-Splitter-Output-Ethernet/dp/B0167JHY3I/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549341625&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=poe+5v+raspberry+pi&psc=1
For the next upgrade you could power that RPi via PoE... free up plugs on the back of your UPS...
There's so much wrong information in this thread. You all should give this a read:
http://plugable.com/2014/10/02/usb-stock-chargers-dedicated-multi-port-chargers-or-charge-sync-hubs-whats-best-for-me
There are hubs that definitely can charge iPads like these:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JEPIOOQ
and
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HARR2W
Plugable 10-Port USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Hub with 48W Power Adapter and Two Flip-Up Ports for Additional Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JEPIOOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_69oVCb5H4JZPE
Absolutely incredible. I have 2 and no compliants.
I bought 2 last time Arrow had a deal. I remember it arriving the following day I ordered (i'm in California). I picked up this SNES case from amazon. I loaded Retropie and got some classic SNES roms. I brought it to work one Friday and we had an impromptu NBA Jam and Mortal Kombat tournament. Tons of fun!
What price was this previously? At $10 you can get a snes case for the pi too which was what I got. Is there any difference between the two other than one being snes and the other being nes?
I put Windows in a virtual machine (QEMU/KVM) with its own GPU / SSD / Display / USB controller, only using the VM for Windows games. I use this device to switch the keyboard / mouse, although you can use a program like Synergy if you don't want to buy anything.
You can use the Intel GPU on Linux and the Nvidia/AMD GPU on the VM, or if you have a GPU laying around, you can use that for the Linux host, I'm using a dedicated GPU on the Linux host to play games on there also.
You can read about this here:
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/PCI_passthrough_via_OVMF
https://www.reddit.com/r/VFIO/
http://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/how-to-setup-a-gaming-virtual-machine-with-gpu-passthrough-qemu-kvm-libvirt-and-vfio.1371980/
Yep, KVM without the video. I just switch inputs on the monitors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3CTDAY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The only issue is/was with the Corsair Keyboard and the Mac. iCue just released for OSX so it's still kind of buggy. Sometimes the lighting wouldn't work when I switched back to the Mac. Since I got the new dock it seems to be working perfect now.
It has a little button that you press to switch between machines (can go up to 4 pcs). I have it mounted under my desk.
FWIW: http://amzn.com/B071JV4NPS
Good lil' USB-C to HDMI/SD card/USB dongle for half of what you paid.
Has some shortcomings but otherwise good unit, solid build, good customer service.
There are others of course, but this is the one I have and it does the job. It does not do Ethernet so you can keep that dongle.
You have 14 days to return the Apple dongles if you're so inclined!
God that thing is enormous. Is it really a better solution than carrying a USB-C hub if you really need those ports?
Here’s what I settled on for my wife’s 2018 MBP:
I organized it all into a small zipper case for her. The only thing she’s used so far is the magnetic charging cable, which she absolutely loves. The other two will come in handy some day, but she mostly works in an environment where files are shared via Google Drive and things are printed wirelessly. She enjoys it so far, but her usage case may not be typical.
Question: Do splitters like these work well? Anyone with experience?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W9FLKTY?psc=1
I bought this, and it works perfectly. No ethernet though. I haven't used ethernet in years.
This is a newer house, so I had the builder drop an Ethernet cable at this location in anticipation of a wall mounted tablet. I’m using this adapter which converts POE to USB.
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-100W-Delivery-MacBook/dp/B072268Q68/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525064924&sr=8-3&keywords=hootoo+usb
I use this one, has usb, sd, usb-c charging and hdmi. Got two of them and they work like they shoud.
Here's the one I picked up. a bit pricey, but works great! There's also one by Aukey that works well too, my daughter uses that with her asus chromebook here
Unfortunately the Pixel Slate's color doesn't match up with anything available, but function over form I suppose lol.
I have got PoE on my switch (power for cameras and an in wall tablet). I wold have to pull the cable but that's not too tough in my house. Would sure be a lot cleaner then figuring out normal person power. Thinking something like this might work:
https://www.amazon.com/802-3af-Splitter-MicroUSB-Devices-WT-AF-5v10w-microUSB/dp/B019BMFCH8
Great reply but I think the second option is actually the reverse of what we think. It’s taking 3.0 from the motherboard and sending it to 5 ports in the back.
Maybe I’ll get both and try them.
I also found this...
Sabrent 5 port Internal USB 3.0 Hub Controller (HB-INTR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794V75LB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O7jVAbJHYJPYH
Possible workaround? Seems perfect!
I agree. Speaking of which, does RetroPi support save states? Almost to the point where I think it'd be worth it to just make my own:
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Complete-Starter-Kit/dp/B01C6Q2GSY/
https://www.amazon.com/8bitdo-NES30-Pro-Controller-Carrying/dp/B01LW7JJPJ/
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Tinytendo-Raspberry-Model-Cooling/dp/B074JJRWHH/
Little more expensive, but it'd be PS Classic, SNES Classic, NES Classic and more all in one...
Here's the one that MS recommends.
We've deployed a couple hundred of the new Air laptops now. We include the Cable-Matters dongle. It's been working well so far but we're only a couple of months in.
Most users that I've asked seem to love the machine so far. Knock on wood but we haven't had any keyboard failure yet, that's my biggest concern in the long run.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B076TRGGM6/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=usb+c+vga+displayport+hdmi+cable+matters&qid=1554304138&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull
​
Just checked and that $79.99 kit comes w/ a 32 GB Micro SD. This would be a complete package for you system-wise. Like someone else said, you need a controller. You can take advantage of the on-board bluetooth capability get a wireles controller set up with something like the SN30 Pro by 8bitdo.
After getting the ROM situation sorted (the Pi 3B+ also has wi-fi, so you could easily set up SMB shares via menus and transfer your ROMs that way) you could look into replacing the case you got with something a bit more period appropriate like a Super Tinytendo Case for a few bucks.
I think the whole mini SNES motif would be cool for your son to enjoy and really get a feel for the period at the time! Plenty of other options out there in terms of customization and controllers also, so you can do as you like.
I've considered doing something similar myself. IF you haven't already, look into PoE midspan injectors and PoE to 5v USB splitters for your power needs. This will allow you to use long runs of in-wall rated cat5e for power with minimal effort while staying to code at a level that in most places should put you below requirements to have the work inspected.
Sure I bought this one
Perixx PERIPAD-202HB, Numeric Keypad for Laptop - USB - Built-in 2xUSB Hub - Tab Key Feature - Full Size 19 Keys - Big Print Letters - Silent X Type Scissor Keys - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GAYDVB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_AO.wDbR1Z29TV
However I was sure I read it had a 1.8 metre cable but it arrived with a very short lead and my PS4 is too far away 😤 I was gonna change it but knew I needed more usbs anyway so if ordered this today as well
UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub 4-Port with 1M Long Cable, High-Speed USB Splitter Portable Extension Data Hub Compatible for MacBook, Mac Pro/mini, Surface Pro, XPS, USB Flash Drives, HDD and More, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QO.wDbY6QBANT
I’m a bit annoyed at the ad or me for getting it wrong but I tested it in pc2 on PS4 and can confirm the number keypad works 100%
Did u see the link above for the button decals I posted?
Sorry for format on iPad.
> First, I'm a bit concerned about proper cooling and airflow, is there anything particular I should pay attention to when choosing the case/other components?
For a normal buid, a basic two intake one exhaust fan is the optimal configuration in terms of temps and dust.
> Now there're how many case fans? That also depends on the case? Also where do they connect/what controls them?
With most good cases, you already get two-three fans. Control depends on the case: either it has a fan controller (fan controller gets hooked up to the PSU, fans go to the controller, you get a physical slider to control the speed), if it hasn't you connect it to the mainboard. Make sure the board you use has enough fan headers, or get y-cables then.
> Second, are all the cases really super compatible
Make sure the case supports you board (either ATX, mATX or ITX [there are larger ones, but these are the most common]). It's a standardized form factor, so if you have an ATX board and an ATX case, you can be sure it fits. YOu'll also need to look out if your GPU fits, especially the length can be a problem. I'd double check: put in your parts at pcpartpicker,, it should already line out incompatibilities, and then check yourself if the CPU cooler fits (look up CPU cooler hight, case CPU cooler clearance) and if the GPU fits (GPU length, case max. GPU length).
> Third, how do the front ports (usb, audio) work
They're headers on the board, and your case should have ports on the front that connec to those headers, enabling them for use.
> should I look specifically for 4x usb3 and 4x usb2
probably hard to find in a case, most have 4 USB ports max. If you don't connect some of the internal ones that your board provides, there's no issue, just "wasted" potential. You can always get something like this if you really need all the ports. Using less than all the ports will definitely work as well.
> I figure they should be connected because power button (I tend to forget those even exist) but other than that I don't know much.
I don't exactly get what you're after here, but all those things (audio, USB, power button, HDD LED (blinks when HDD is in use)) connect directly to the mainboard, it has headers for all those things. If you want to get a bit more confident with it before starting to build, I'd recommend watching a build log and then looking at your board's manual, the diagrams concerning internal connectors are on page 30ff.
Yeah, you're right I meant the 3.0 ports. Annoying little shits, I really hate this new trend of having half a dozen different kinds of USB. Defeats the whole point of calling it USB. Oh well.
That's obnoxious, but thanks for the answer.
Do you think something like this would work?
100%. Here's one from Anker (good reputation) which also allows to charge while using it.
They’ve got injection molded Pi cases as well. Looks smoother. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wkt3Ab4B94BQ8
here's one
that's if you wanted up to 4k@60hz so it's expensive.
or this for dual 4k@30hz but every other port under the moon
there's so many docks so it just depends on your needs
Defective unit. And I highly doubt that it supports 802.3at in that form factor. It’s some Chinese garbage with overblown fake specs. Note, you can’t even get “at” with 5V output. You are limited to 10watts just by micro usb.
I use this one. It works. https://www.amazon.com/WT-AF-USB-Splitter-Ethernet-Switches-microUSB/dp/B019BLMWY0/
AFAIK, there is only the Pi PoE Switch HAT for a purpose designed PoE HAT. Silvertel did release the design for a PoE board that uses one of the little PoE power modules but that might be a little too much hassle if you only want 1 of them. Your best option is to just use one of the smaller PoE splitters like this one. The RPi Ethernet is only 100Mbps so you don't need the bulky VX-PI1000SP in your existing bundle.
It's a great little box. I have one in my HomeSeer installation. A company called TexasWifi makes an adapter to use a raspberry pi over Poe. I use it on mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BMFCH8/
If you can charge via USB-C
Any cheap option with power delivery will do. eg
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B076TRGGM6/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539720701&sr=1-20&keywords=usb-c+power+delivery+vga
Found this really affordable one!, has power and all! Looks good?
https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-MacBook-Microsoft-Surface-Ultrabooks/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_38?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539220297&sr=1-38&keywords=usb+hub+power
I use this for my 15 inch MBP: https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Thunderbolt-Pass-Through-Charging/dp/B06XRVX3XM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498249348&sr=8-2&keywords=satechi+usb+c+hub
He could get a powered hub to keep his VR gear on a single BUS with it's own power source.
I carry this one with me everywhere and use it with my MBX Pro, works great! One of the only ones I could find with all of the ports I wanted. Let me know if you have any questions about it!
USB C Hub, Sinstar 8 in 1 Aluminum Multi Port Adapter Type C Combo Hub for MacBook Pro USB C Hub to HDMI Male (4K) Type-C Pass Through, Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader and 3 USB 3.0 Ports (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1xHZCbXSR2MH0
Which chromebook do you use? If it has USB-C for power and HDMI out, something like this can work: https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-100W-Delivery-MacBook/dp/B072268Q68
Mine has been fine, but I can't do 1920x1200 for some reason (no idea if this is a technical limit on my monitor or output tied to specifically 1080p and 4k res)
So this wouldn't work Anker 4-Port USB-C Portable Data Hub, with a Premium Power Delivery Charging Port and Gigabit Ethernet Included for MacBook Pro 2016, Chromebook Pixel and Other Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0XTF9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dChtzbXHYPCAZ
Yeah reading your link confused me too. I think you need a usb-c dongle with power passthrough like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0WE99C
You don't need one. You can buy an internal USB hub - here's one for USB 2.0, here's one for USB 3.0
Yeah I’m using this one USB C Hub, Sinstar 8 in 1... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I may try to use a straight usb C to normal usb cord and see if that works.
From a reputable manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-MicroSD-Delivery-ChromeBook/dp/B071JV4NPS
I can't get anything to show up in iFile or Filza. I managed to install CameraConnector on my iOS 10.2 iPhone 6P but the preference bundle is unable to be opened within settings, it needs to be updated.
I have this Samsung USB 3.0 flash drive I just got last week. Plugging it into the CCK directly gives the error message that the devices requires too much power and is incompatible.
For whatever reason, if you use this USB splitter plugged into the CCK and then plug your flash drive into that, it allows you to access the drive...kind of. Your iPhone will automatically launch the Photos app to a tab called Import but nothing will show up if you don't have any photos/videos in a folder called DCIM. I was able to import pictures and videos from the flash drive after I put them within a folder on the drive.
The catch is that you can only import files from the drive in Photos app, you can't watch or view them from the drive. You can only see the thumbnails. And nothing in iFile or Filza works any more. I used the tweak Mounted and also CameraConnector and I got nothing.
Also, I then formatted the drive to HFS+ or whatever and put a video on the drive. My phone reboots after about 10 seconds after plugging it in. This has happened twice now.
PS, this Digital/Analog Converter works for me as long as I have a separate power source for the DAC using another USB splitter that splits the power and data into two separate cables.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
You've got this which is the smallest 'hub' I've seen (its really more of a splitter); or this if you're looking for something with a cable for extensions.
I have 2 from Plugable. One with regular current, one high current (for running portable hard drives). I've been very happy with them.
you want this, I believe. You can use the two charging ports for the iPads, everything else should be fine off the standard 900mA...
http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-SuperSpeed-Charging-firmware-Motorola/dp/B00JEPIOOQ
Would be best to get normal monitors and choose between the two options below.
Satechi Aluminum Type-C Dual HDMI Adapter 4K 60Hz with USB-C PD Charging - Patent Pending - Compatible with 2019/2018 MacBook Pro, 2018 MacBook Air, 2018 Mac Mini (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RH9HF4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L-gSDbZMTN6JA
Satechi Aluminum Type-C Pro Hub Adapter with Thunderbolt 3 (40Gbs), 4K HDMI, USB-C Data, SD/Micro Card Reader, USB 3.0 - Compatible with 2016/2017/2018 MacBook Pro 13-Inch and 15-Inch (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRVX3XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5bhSDbDGRN25R
Note: don't buy some other usb c hubs, with only one type c connection claiming to support two displays. Most of them use display port Daisy chaining which is not supported in mac os
Well you've got this as an option - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073VKGFBM
You could just pop it open and possibly modify it to your needs.
If you really really really want to spend more time and money this page might be a good start.
https://www.chromium.org/chromium-os/hoho
Four months late (browsing for inspo), but:
It's a USB-C hub. You can find a ton of 'em on Amazon. Different YouTube tech reviewers have done "best-of"s of them. It's not the one that OP has, but I'm partial to the Satechi model; they make good shit. Pricey, but that's because it actually has to fully power all those ports, which cheaper ones don't always do (or do well).
Printing is perfect for this kind of small diy project. I used this usb hub https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Compact-Microsoft-Ultrabooks-etc-Black/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_14?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1521765982&sr=1-14&keywords=usb+hub and a regular PC power switch soldered to some 2m long wire that runs under my desk to my PC power port on the motherboard. I then designed the printed part to easily slot these things in and with a little sanding (and an oil rub) it was done. I might make a 2nd version with an sd card slot and audio out but it seems like there's tons of possibilities. Here's the thingiverse link for anyone interested https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2836684
This may be what you're looking for
Satechi Aluminum Type-C Pro Hub Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRVX3XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PktMzbHAF3ZQH
I’m using one of these to hang two SSD’s off a single USB port on a One X - works like a charm;
USB 3.0 Hub, Tendak USB Hub with 4 USB 3.0 Data Ports + 1 USB Smart Charging Port and Power Supply Adapter with Individual On/Off Port Switches for PS4 Pro PS4 Slim Xbox One; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9C24M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_op0TDbX7SXPZB
There is indeed!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VK9C24M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i bought this peripheral back in March, never had an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FJXGDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I hacked one of these in place of the single USB port. The hub chip on it was recognized ok. As for unbricking, i'm hoping u-boot console from the serial pins still works, I have yet to find out. https://wiki.openwrt.org/toh/tp-link/tl-mr3020
Having tried Debian previously on my UX390UA, I am currently running Ubuntu 16.04, and provided you use a recent kernel, everything works fine. Currently waiting on a 1TB NVMe SSD upgrade, which I intend to use for dual booting Ubuntu & Gentoo.
Word to the wise, though; mine did not come with a USB-C to USB-A adaptor; a number of sources hinted that it would, but wherever you get yours, you might want to check the box contents list.
I can say that Anker's Unibody USB-C to USB-A+Gigabit Ethernet + power pass-through adapter works perfectly, though. Not wanting anything to do with Windows 10 myself, the laptop was basically useless without this.
currently have one of these plugged in, and everything working. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VKGFBM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got a couple free from the random Chinese brands that are those 8/9/10/12 in one type hubs. The SD card readers on them work fine.
Option A
Option B
Caution: not all USB hubs are capable of charging. this is the one I purchased and seems to be working so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W9FLKTY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just learned POE midspans exist. Then you can use a POE to USB adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0167JHY3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505777798&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=poe+to+5v&dpPl=1&dpID=41lRLRD-3jL&ref=plSrch
To make sure I'm on the same page here...
Assuming all of that is correct - my guess is the switch isn't detecting the splitter as a device to provide power for. Unfortunately it's not a managed switch so you can't log in to check. Plug a short, pre-made network cable between switch and splitter and check the output voltage on the barrel jack. If you don't see 5V, try plugging the network output of the PoE splitter into a laptop or desktop network jack. If you then get 5V, it's because the switch won't provide power on a port that isn't active.
If that's the case, honestly I'd just buy a cheap passive injector / splitter pair and use the Nest's original power supply to power it. Save you a port on the switch and the hassle of dealing with active PoE.
If you get 5V on the output, it's possible that the amperage isn't high enough for the Nest Cam even though the splitter says it is and the camera is shutting down. Possibly try plugging a mobile phone into the micro USB output and see if it charges or provides a low-power error.
Hopefully one of those steps will lead you towards a solution!
edit thought some more
People said the same thing about USB A when it first came out back in the day. They removed the parallel port, the serial port, the Apple Talk port, etc in favor of USB. And look where it's taken us! I'm not saying that Apple is a pioneer or that they have a great track record, but we now have in front of us a non-Apple proprietary port (Thunderbolt is licensed through Apple/Intel as a joint effort, not that it'd even matter since USB C is open) that is superior in almost every way. And really it is not that expensive to get something where your old devices work. For $40 you can get a USB C hub that has USB A + another USB C port. That's not expensive compared to the olden days where you had to have an adapter for USB->Serial or USB->Parallel where compatibility was minimal at best. USB C is completely compatible with every version of USB, it's just a different connector.
At this point it's really just meme material and most arguments against the idea of having this unifying new connector are hollow at best.
> Power adapter
THanks ok. I am kind of confusing myself. So if I got that cable (linked below), how would I give it power? Do you think you can send me picture of it (whether its ur setup or one from online so i can visualize it?)
So would I need to purchase this stuff?:
Micro USB 2.0 OTG Cable
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Adapter-Samusung-Android-Function/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485041218&sr=8-3&keywords=Micro+USB+OTG
USB 3.0 Hub, Atolla 4 Ports Super Speed USB 3 Hub Splitter With On Off Switch With 1 USB Charging Port
https://www.amazon.com/Atolla-Splitter-Switch-Charging-Length/dp/B00W9FLKTY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485041413&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=usb+splitter&psc=1
it is actually pretty cheap considering the hdmi/usb/power hub on the market right now
https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Delivery-Recharging-Aluminum-ChromeBook/dp/B01D0WE99C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484347339&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+delivery
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z370-A-PRO/Gallery
The mother board in your list have 6 USB ports on the back. Most boards have at least 4.
Those NZXT internal hubs are useless for you. They are for internal devices that need more USB ports, like water cooler or some RGB BS.
The USB hub would be like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Inch-Charging-SY-HUB20134/dp/B008FJXGDQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518665134&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+front+panel+5.25
It's a powered USB hub that connects to one of the two USB3 headers on the motherboard.
thanks for the help! yes they were are compatible so i should be good to go there, but i have a few more questions.
Thank you for the help, could you check if this will work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bus-powered-Shielded-MacBook-Raspberry-Laptops/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1472924596&sr=8-10&keywords=powered+usb+hub
Also, I have seen this other cable, could this work?
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51wXUxsX2kL._SL1001_.jpg
So, the 3.0A goes to the Raspberry Pi, the 2.0 to the power supply, and the 3.0 head goes to the HDD. I'm not sure if this will do the trick :S
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A81ISJ6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Port-Internal-Controller-HB-INTR/dp/B0794V75LB
Don't have crusty wiring going into a hole on your case, use an internal hub.
You could try this one, as it is cheap bear in mind that it could be a poor quality product.
Desert West
​
This satechi one is slightly cheaper and from a more reliable company.
Satechi
You'll need a powered hub, one that uses external power to turn on, it'll have it's own plug.
USB 3.0 Hub - Tendak USB Hub with 4 USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9C24M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RfmuDbG8VNY2W
Doesn't gotta be that fancy but needs external power
You'll need several adapters, chief among them a KVM switch. KVM means keyboard, video and mouse. Here's a model that can handle two monitors and up to four computers:
https://www.amazon.com/Extended-CKL-Microphone-Keyboard-CKL-922HUA/dp/B07KMZ1SDM/
Not cheap, but there are alternatives that cost several times as much. Your mouse and keyboard plug into this switch, a simple button press switches between devices. No need to unplug and plug in anything once this is set up.
For the Surface, you'll need a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter and a USB 3.0 hub (for input) with HDMI out. Alternatively, you can get an all-in-one adapter with two HDMI out ports (you may need a USB C to USB 3.0 adapter depending on which Surface Pro you have):
https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Laptops-Windows-Support/dp/B07Q9JXWTP/
Here is a link to an adapter that will work for you need and extra but it is $80 you could probably find one cheaper if you scrolled a few pages on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Laptops-Windows-Support/dp/B07Q9JXWTP/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=usb3.0+to+2+hdmi&qid=1565148729&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Would this work? Comes with Bay adapter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FJXGDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_KWRjtb0YT9J8T
I don’t use the ports that often except to occasionally plug in my phone or occasional SD card. And I’d rather be future proofed. I do plug in my USB 3.0 portable HDD often and got a Micro B to USB 3.0 C cord.
Picked up an adapter that has everything I need for everything else:
Mine
Cheaper version with fewer USB ports and no ethernet
Yes. You always want to get "powered" hubs because there is a limit to what electricity can be sent over USB. You'll also want to get USB 3.0 so that you will have good speed with so many devices. Here's a good one: 7 ports, 10 ports
My M7 one will be arriving next week, so I can't say how it performs just yet. But I've been eyeing up this hub by Anker. They also sell one with a HDMI or 3 USB ports, although it replaces one of the USB ports. Looking at it as it can also charge the laptop.
UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub 4-Port with 1M Long Cable, High-Speed USB Splitter Portable Extension Data Hub Compatible for MacBook, Mac Pro/mini, Surface Pro, XPS, USB Flash Drives, HDD and More, Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K8WzDbPKP45CP
I bought this and using it to connect USB mouse and keyboard for gaming and works perfect.
This is the injector that I have:
https://www.amazon.com/WT-AF-5v10w-802-3af-Splitter-Output-Ethernet/dp/B0167JHY3I?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
The issue that I am having, I just had a new house built, and I had the builder drop ethernet at my front door and back porch door, without power. I just assumed I would be using Power over Ethernet.
Looking back I should have had them run power too.
But alas, that is where I am currently stuck at.
Need LE, that is why I'm looking for 4.0 and not 3.0. Trying to avoid a hub to keep size small and cost down... but looking at the hybrid 3.0 devices, it may be cheaper to do a hub...
Edit: Would the Pi have enough juice to use something non-powered like this for both a BT and Wifi USB device: http://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Splitter-White/dp/B00A81ISJ6
This thing would seem to be able to do what you want, but I can't vouch for it. Anker has made a couple different versions of this, some of which are no longer available after less than 2 years, and they seem to be the only company advertising this capability, so I'm skeptical, but at least it'd be an easy return to Amazon if it doesn't work.
Look for a type c charging hub, usually listed as for a MacBook.
Something like USB C Hub, HooToo USB C Adapter with 100W Type C Power Delivery, HDMI Output, Card Reader, 3 USB 3.0 Ports for 2016/2017 MacBook Pro and Windows Type C laptop - Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072268Q68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0VwLAbARHY1S7
You can always get the Sabrent Internal USB 3 HUB: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Port-Internal-Controller-HB-INTR/dp/B0794V75LB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sabrent+internal+usb+3+hub&qid=1569146145&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Then you get 3 internal and 2 external USB 3 ports inside your case. There is some people reporting having issues with it when using the provided SATA power cable that powers the HUB. Read the reviews! But it should work fine without the SATA power connected if you only use it for the 2 front ports that you are currently not using.
If both machines have the correct type of USB C , plug everything into the adapter. Move the adapter from one machine to the next. Or RDP to you laptop when home.
​
https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Laptops-Windows-Support/dp/B07Q9JXWTP/ref=pd_cp_147_4?pd_rd_w=xmWFk&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=959NQ9PQ0TEAJDYSSW8F&pd_rd_r=b1cb542e-d768-4dce-9491-32ef9e3f8c66&pd_rd_wg=KtkGg&pd_rd_i=B07Q9JXWTP&psc=1&refRID=959NQ9PQ0TEAJDYSSW8F
I have the same setup except my dongle has an additional USB-C power port so I can charge if necessary, and is HDMI instead of VGA, plus I have a mini retractable HDMI chord.
Does anyone know of a USB-C to USB-C powered hub? Preferably one with USB 3.0, sd-card, etc. But I just want to connect my phone to my USB-C touchscreen monitor and be able to charge my phone. I saw Anker has something exactly like what I'm looking for, but it's PD and doesn't work with Dex
​
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-MicroSD-Delivery-Chromebook/dp/B071JV4NPS
I got this one: USB 3.0 Hub, atolla 4 Ports Super Speed USB 3 Hub Splitter with On Off Switch with 1 USB Charging Port (Cable Length 2 Feet, No AC Adapter) (4-Port hub) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W9FLKTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7IOEDbH82BFG7
However, I do find the USB cable a bit long. I need to cable manage in that area now. Not a huge issue, but 2ft in that area is a bit much.
But, for reference, my front console area also contains the bottom bucket half of this :https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993184 and this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3187713 on top of the bucket. So, my front console area is a bit busy.
I had intended to use the bucket as a sort of "in car garbage can", but after some thought I think I'm going to store a couple of wired Xbox controllers in there.
That thing looks ginormous. I use a much smaller one with HDMI two USB and ethernet. If looks similar to this but without the vga and display port: Cable Matters USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Dock) w/HDMI / DP/VGA, USB 2.0, Fast Ethernet, 60W PD in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for MacBook Pro, Dell XPS, HP Spectre x360 & More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TRGGM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t84ACbDW08ZYS
Did that a year ago with a regular Antec 300. If you want more accessible USB 3 ports you could run an extension cable from a motherboard port on the back (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH134L6/) or use one of the front 5.25 bays (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FJXGDQ/).
I've been thinking about getting this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076TRGGM6/?coliid=I14C0F9LA1G2CA&colid=7512U7AUMVLM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I just have to do some more research to see if it's the newest version...the USB-A 2.0 ports are the only reason I haven't pulled the trigger already.
This is what I use. Solid build.
Anker 7-in-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JV4NPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yzuTBb7EJ8TSP
Research it before you buy one.
I recently bought a hub for my ps4 and every time I plug it in, the ps4 starts acting up and losing connection to the web and stuff that feels like it shouldn't be unrelated to the usb port...
USB 3.0 Hub, atolla 4 Ports Super Speed USB 3 Hub Splitter With On Off Switch With 1 USB Charging Port (Cable Length 2 Feet, No AC adapter) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W9FLKTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKKtzb8WJHY2G
That's the model I have and it's not great... at the moment It's plugged straight to the wall and I use it to charge controllers/phones
The reviews/questions on amazon made it look like it works perfectly with the ps4... just like the commenters before me. It doesn't and I'm still not sure what to look for in a model that would work fine.
Good luck
Yeah I did, I bought small hub from amazon. Cable Matters USB C Multiport Adapter (USB C Dock) w/HDMI/DP/VGA, USB 2.0, Fast Ethernet, 60W PD in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TRGGM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5xBaCP1NjJOqK
Ever since I got it, I never had problem again.
double the price
I gotta know too. It’s a great looking USB hub and super functional too.
Edit: actually looks like this: https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-MacBook-Microsoft-Surface-Ultrabooks/dp/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=usb+hub&qid=1558668546&s=gateway&sr=8-15
On the USB C only Macbook Pro, here's a nice adapter that gives USB A ports, 1 SD card slot and 1 Micro SD Card Slot, here's a more expensive one.
And yes, the iMac Pro has an SD Card slot, you can check MKBHD's video
https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Adapter-100W-Delivery-MacBook/dp/B072268Q68/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1538482937&sr=1-4&keywords=HooToo+usb+c+hub
​
This is the Hub I use.
Would a USB Hub work(like this) or are you mainly looking for something internal?
I found this, it looks Apply to me https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A81ISJ6/ref=twister_B00NNXYSZ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 you might find it cheaper somewhere else.
A Thunderbolt dock is your best bet, though if you're balking at $80 for the Ankers then I guess one's not on the cards.
I use in some cases more than one of the
Satechi,
Anker,
Anker,
Yet Another Anker,
Aukey
^^^And ^^^no, ^^^those ^^^aren't ^^^native ^^^C ^^^ports ^^^- ^^^you'd ^^^have ^^^to ^^^be ^^^an ^^^idiot ^^^to ^^^expect ^^^that ^^^for ^^^<$50
and they all suck to different degrees - the Ankers possibly being the worst though it's a fine line. The main problem is consistency in operation - e.g. even with a much higher-rated PSU feeding it, Power Delivery behaviour of peripherals connected to the ports can be unreliable. And that's on top of other USB stuff I plug in which either aren't recognised or drop off from time to time. This whole thing has made using a Macbook IRL a fucking nightmare and right now I'm really wishing I hadn't dumped all of my '15 MBP's when I switched over wholesale to the '16 MB/Ps.
Still waiting for OWC Thunderbolt dock to be released + reviewed then I'll order them for all my semi-stationary setups. Again though, it's a $300 proposition. The $200 Caldigit TS3 Lite is now shipping but I don't like it's limited scope of ports.
Don't forget that something like this is also an option.
What kind of connections do you need? For my X1 yoga I went with this usb-c adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B076TRGGM6/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537496191&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=cable+matters+usb+c
to also have displayport and charging. I haven't tested the VGA, HDMI and ethernet yet, but displayport, charging and usb2 work under bother windows and linux.
After hours of searching, I think I've finally found 1 or 2:
I hope it benefits anyone reading, and please correct if found any mistake.
Experienced users of any of these devices, but not limited to, please donate your opinions.
TP-Link UH720
The side 2 x 2.4Amp only does charging. No Data Sync.
I've checked with TP-Link Pre-sales support, the front 7 ports of this model does 1.5A charging AND data sync.
However, I did not ask about how many devices could it sustain at 1.5A.
But i bet at least 2 shouldn't be a problem and it's good enough for me.
TP-Link UH700
This Model, however, only the last 3 ports does charging and data sync up to 1.5A.
Pluggable USB 3.0 10-port hub
This I only the back 2 port does charging.
Plugable 7-Port USB 3.0 SuperSpeed Charging Hub
This one it says any of the port does 1.5Amp charging, definitely you can't charge all 7 ports at 1.5Amps, but it has a switching power inside.
The key here is to look for BC1.2 Compliant (Battery Charging 1.2).
Hopefully the BC1.2 standard could upgrade to support more than 1.5Amps soon.
Good point, I didn't think about that. It's technically possible to do LAN+charging when undocked but it's complicated and expensive.
Some USB-C hubs (like this $40 Anker one) support passthrough charging, but they'll only work with some chargers (needs USB PD) and there's no telling which ones actually work with Switch because most of them are finicky. I haven't even tested the one I linked. Some of them have built-in Ethernet that may or may not work, others need a USB LAN adapter.
I just bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B076TRGGM6
My requirement was 4k display capability over peripheral performance. The network card is only 100mbit, and the USB-A port is only usb 2.0... but it does support 4k@60hz over displayport. Any Thunderbolt 3 connection could get around this limitation, but the price would be much higher. Partnered with a 90w usb-C power adapter, my latitude 7400 is working fine.
Does this one not do exactly what you want.
PoE Texas GAF-USB | 802.3af PoE Splitter Compatible with iPads and Tablets with 5 Volt 10 Watt Output - Includes USB-A and Micro-USB adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BLMWY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wUcSDb3NSCQM4
The 3.5mm audio jack is the one thing that makes this ask difficult, haha.
Here's a few that meet everything but the 3.5mm port:
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Ethernet-High-Speed-MacBook-Pro/dp/B07PVKHZLJ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb-c+dock&qid=1571159226&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/TOTU-Ethernet-Laptops-Windows-Support/dp/B07Q9JXWTP/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=usb-c+dock&qid=1571159226&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/USB-Hub-Adapter-Ethernet-Charging/dp/B07QQ11BP6/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=usb-c+dock&qid=1571159226&sr=8-18
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Adapter-Ethernet/dp/B076TRGGM6 is the frontrunner. it's only USB2.0 (which seems to be how it allows 60hz 4K and support 1g ethernet)
https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkPad-USB-C-Dock-40AS0090US pricier but fully featured and NOT displaylink. reviews indicate poor linux support though
Was thinking into something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Port-Internal-Controller-HB-INTR/dp/B0794V75LB
Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WG8ZJ41/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_oRFYDbA7545N5
Not sure if it would work or if it's even worth it...
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
these guys
---
^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly&nbsp;bot
I got this one from Amazon:
USB C Hub, HooToo USB C Adapter with 100W Type C Power Delivery, HDMI Output, Card Reader, 3 USB 3.0 Ports for 2016/2017 MacBook Pro and Windows Type C laptop - Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072268Q68?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Search for compact USB hubs. Here are some:
Something like this Tendak USB 3.0 Hub with 4 USB 3.0 Data Ports + 1 USB Smart Charging Port and Power Supply Adapter with Individual On/Off Port Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9C24M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cp1VAb9ZTXN2R
This problem makes me wish that Shenzhen IO could make real products. The device is technically simple but demand for it is nearly non-existent. I did find a few things I might try, as they're not too expensive, mostly as a proof of concept (because you end up with a lot of plastic on your desk.)
This device is a simple bidirectional video switch. You'd need like 3 of these to handle switching Rift and 2 monitors between two machines. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXFHPBH
This USB switch might be able to do the job as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3CTDAY
The Rift is quite picky about USB quality, so it's hard to say if it would introduce too much latency or signal loss, plus with this setup you'd need to hit 4 buttons to switch, but that's not so bad if it worked. The total cost is about $90
Not sure what you mean by native performance, but any usb3 hub should allow you the same speeds as plugging in directly to your computer. As far as power goes, what about a powered hub like this?
Tendak USB 3.0 Hub with 4 USB 3.0 Data Ports + 1 USB Smart Charging Port and Power Supply Adapter with Individual On/Off Port Switches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VK9C24M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bwXZzbRBAYKNT
So you'd even say it could not fit just one of these 40mm fans?
Super Tinytendo Case for Raspberry Pi 3, 2, Model B with Large Cooling Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074JJRWHH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FcYYzbH80DRWP
USB C hubs exist. In fact macbooks can use USB C powered hubs. IN fact PIXEL C's can use it. I use one with my pixel C everyday. I charge my tablet AND use the extra port to connect my extenral mouse, it's AWESOME.
IT's google who are being assholes about adding firmware support for this on their phones.
powered/passthrough USB C hub: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook/dp/B01D0XTF9U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Unfortunately, all the ones are designed to switch 1 connected device between two computers, which could work.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-One-Button-Swapping-Between-Computers/dp/B006Z0Q2SI
https://www.amazon.com/Cute-USB-2-Port-Hub-Splitter/dp/B00A81ISJ6
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/
Ok, so you'd plug the USB splitter into a USB port on your computer, Then you'd run the USB 2.0 B cable into one of the USB B ports on the switcher.
Then you'd remove the adapter from the ifi, plug it into the other usb B port on the switcher, and then plug the dac into the usb A port on the other side.
The "two computers" would be the line with the ifi, and the line without.
I don't know of any MB's that have 8 USB ports of them. What you might consider is picking up a UBS/SATA hub (https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Inch-Charging-SY-HUB20134/dp/B008FJXGDQ) which just ties in to the motherboard via a SATA port.
I ordered the anker usb-c hub with ethernet. Hopefully it works with the device.
How about this? it is 3.5" but comes with a 5.25 mount". Just remember you will need 2 internal USB 3.0 headers on your motheboard.
Not what you asked exactly, but have you considered power over ethernet? something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Switches-WT-AF-USB/dp/B019BLMWY0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2YGC9JZ3S7SW0GEM6AT2
then you can ditch the power wire completely.
You would need a POE switch, or a power injector at the other end.
If you have a POE switch this work great
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0167JHY3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I just wanted to give you some helpful WMR tracking advice. Microsoft has made a lot of improvements through software since launch. Make sure you are on the latest 1903 build of windows. There was a WMR bug, but it was patched.
I believe Samsung did not put the bluetooth receiver for the controllers into the headset until the odyssey+. If that is the case, it is a good idea to use a usb extension cable to get the bluetooth dongle closer to the controllers. I'm also not sure if the headset comes with a bluetooth dongle, so double check that.
Also, you want to use your headset in a well lit room. Finally, some people have problems with their motherboards not being able to supply enough power from their usb port. I use this powered USB 3.0 hub:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VK9C24M?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
You might not have any issues without it, but if you get audio crackling or issues with the screens, it might solve the problem. Enjoy.
Perhaps this would work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019BLMWY0
Fair enough. You might run into ergonomic issues trying to use a raised keyboard without a wrist rest.
I bought this one, which was pricey but worth it. The biggest benefits are that it's USB 3, so I can plug USB sticks into it and transfer at full speed to any of the attached computers, and it has a separate switch button which I keep next to my keyboard.
If you only need to switch between two computers and/or don't care about USB 3 (like for a keyboard and mouse), you could go for a cheaper option.
Do you have cable TV jacks in each room? If so, check out MoCA...I use these Actiontec devices (Amazon Link). I get solid 980 Mbps+ links between these when transferring data...I currently have 5 in my house.
&#x200B;
You can use a PoE splitter to power the device off your PoE switches. I use this one from PoE Texas (Amazon Link)
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Title: [USA-FL][H] 2017 13” MacBook Pro w/ Touch Bar [W] PayPal/Local Cash
Username: /u/OmicronMC
Body:
I am interested in selling for my 2017 MacBook Pro. The specs are: 3.1 GHz Intel i5, 8 GB 2133 LPDDR3 RAM, 256 SS, Intel Iris Plus 650.
The computer is in perfect working condition, the screen and touch bar are both totally fine, the keyboard works great, as does the track-pad. The only flaw are the scratches on the back edges (entirely aesthetic), and this can be found in the last image of provided link.
This also has AppleCare+ till June of 2021.
I'm looking for around $1150. I am also providing a dongle, and this does not affect the price - I simply do not need it. I currently do not have it with me, but here is the amazon link for it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRVX3XM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I am local to 32607(College Address) or 34761(Address that I go to during weekends).
AppleCare+ Link:
https://checkcoverage.apple.com/us/en/?sn=C02WP1QQHV2L
Timestamp:
https://imgur.com/a/ynX0awe
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That would work. Or this if you wanted more ports, just plug it into you OTG cable
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00W9FLKTY?psc=1
Edit 2: or an alternative https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XFMTL63?psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01D0WE99C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487360003&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=anker+usb+c+hub&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31FfB7vasCL&amp;ref=plSrch
Perfect! Thank you! :D
I don't know why I couldn't find anything before, I didn't really know what to write... This has it as: Hub with Power delivery. I didn't think of that.
Thanks again :)
Thanks for the reply. I’ve got the same results on each of these adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787XJCTV/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072268Q68/
I need to go clean some things up before I post some awesome photos like everyone else on here, but here's what I use in my entryway coat closet which I've retrofitted to be a server closet (while still serving as a coat closet):
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As far as air, electrical, and a ton of Ethernet goes:
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Since I've had a bitch of a time getting cable run into some of the rooms (for whatever reason, I can't just drop straight down from the ceiling since some boards cross horizontally) then I use MoCA. Specifically, Actiontec MoCA, and then the one that's in the server closet is run PoE via an adapter.
I bought and use this at my work desk.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3CTDAY
It works well and allows up to four connections.
I've been using split loom for desktop cable management for just over a year now, and I can't recommend it enough. My trackball doesn't move much relative to my keyboard (and even when I used a mouse I just added a little extra slack).
By enclosing the wires in split loom (the stuff used in car wiring harnesses), they're kept protected and look pretty good, in my opinion. I have a fairly deep desk, and didn't want to have two cables running across it because I keep notebooks and such above the keyboard. I had split loom on hand for a 3D printer build, and decided to give it a shot.
In addition, you can see a little button above the keyboard. I've got an IOGear USB sharing hub that allows me to switch my trackball and keyboard between up to 4 different computers. It's fantastic for when I do work on my business laptop at home, I just plug in one cable and can use my own peripherals with the press of a button. Highly recommended!
My keyboard is a Pok3r with DSA keycaps arranged to match my Dvorak layout. I learned Dvorak on a standard QWERTY keyboard, as recommended, but wanted a board that matched my actual layout for when I just need to hit a key or two without putting my hands on the home row. The green keys are Vim movement keybindings, I've got the Debian logo on one of the function keys, and the OpenBSD logo for ESC. Those two keys aren't DSA, but aren't different enough to disrupt normal usage.
As an IT guy who currently has these problems we solved it by just purchasing these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRVX3XM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Otherwise like stated purchase previous generation MacBook Pros.
I have had trouble with some docking stations before - went through three microsoft docks for my surface book2 before I gave up (the microsoft store guy eventually told me their docks are total hit or miss D:). Check this one out -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q9JXWTP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've had it for about a year now and works with my MSI GS65 without any issue. Looks pretty comparable to the dell one you are attempting to use.
no worries, i decided to just go with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FJXGDQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
it's an internal device that runs over usb cable, so it solves both my problems
Get a good powered USB hub. I have this one. The benefit of lighted on/off buttons for each individual port is nice. I have 3 4TB USB-powered drives (meaning they are powered by the hub and do not have their own source) plugged in all the time, and they never bog down. Most of the time I remember to turn them off when not in use. They perform flawlessly. You don't have to get a hub with individual on/off buttons as unplugging them does the same thing, but you do need to make sure the hub is powered. ALWAYS back up the media to a different drive, however. Eventually, everything fails. A long time ago, I decided to start buying 2 drives when I only needed one. The second drive always serves as a backup for the first one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OQ0CYFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And if you want to make it powered you can buy a detachable dc power cord that is optional
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074JJRWHH
I've been using this one with my Surface Go. HDMI and charging works simultaneously.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072268Q68/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It depends on how much power the device needs for the handshake. A passive hub tricks the iPad into thinking it needs to send more power out, so it releases the throttle that was put in back in iOS 7 (I believe it gets mad if you expect more than 20 mah otherwise). I use [this] (https://amzn.com/B00A81ISJ6) usb hub to run my AKAI mpk mk II and Korg nanoKONTROL, whereas without it I would receive error messages just attempting to connect the AKAI without it.
For the phone to be your internet router, you could simply have it be a wireless hotspot. If your devices are all wireless, then you're pretty much done just by turning hotspot mode on. The problem would be that when you take your phone away, the internet goes with it. I've heard of people buying a second phone and paying for a second line just to have a dedicated internet router for the house.
If you want to bridge to wired ethernet, you'd probably want something like this: https://amzn.com/B07Q9JXWTP which should let you charge the device while connecting wired, but I'm not sure if you can share internet through a wired ethernet port on a V20.
There's this.