(Part 3) Best battery chargers & accessories according to redditors
We found 4,791 Reddit comments discussing the best battery chargers & accessories. We ranked the 1,525 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Most 140mm case fans should only pull 1-2 watts.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/140mm-fan-roundup_12.html
A small wall wart should do it. I'd just repurpose something I already had, but something like this would do it:
http://amzn.com/B00KZ2ZQE8
Also going down to 9v might be an option for this setup as it would make it quieter at the expense of slower fan speed.
With the rise of 3d printers it has gotten much easier to find large power supplies. This one should work:
https://smile.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_15?crid=23IGWZFRJ74SN&keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1574186010&sprefix=12v+%2Caps%2C186&sr=8-15
I’ll try to break down a parts list since OP didn’t explicitly say one and I am looking into this project myself:
Setup:
​
Parts list
Bonus for CD Users! (current wip for me)
Grab a raspberry pi, a USB CD Drive, and VLC. Automate the action taken when a CD is inserted to start VLC, start playback and output to the speaker group "Renderer". (Or just rip to plex/media manager of choice like the tech literate end user you are!)
Maybe $350 ish? Basically just this guy or 2 and some wires https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
be careful to wire everything properly safely, ground, and add fuses for safety. Too many safety measures is the perfect amount.
Came here to suggest to OP to look at replacing all of their power bricks with a single all-in-one like this Satechi or maybe wait for one of the new upcoming GaN adapters this year.
All you need is a 9 volt adaptor and a daisy chain. You can buy both on Amazon for under $15, I use the Planet Waves adapter and it works fine for me. For connecting your pedals together you can use whatever instrument cable you want. I use smaller (1.5 inch) ones because it keeps my pedals closer together and preserves the signal.
Also, I should note: I chose the quietest 4 power supplies that I had on hand. I also have a lab-grade power supply @ 12V, but the scoping also looked similar so I didn't feel like including it to save space on the final image. The Nintendo Wii adapter was chosen because I felt like it was one that people could relate to, and also it was made for a mass-market device by a high quality Japanese company. The Planet waves adapter, which you can pick up on Amazon for like $9, is actually quite good, and a great deal IMO. 200mV [+/- 50] Vpp is actually very quiet (tame..), compared to any other switching power supplies. If I upload a pic using a China-eBay-generic adapter, it will NOT look pretty. Expect like 500mV [+/- 250mV] Vpp....w/ a Fourier transform showing massive peaks at 60Hz and 120Hz.
TL;DR: "BZZzzzzzz......."
I assume you are on a tight budget, but if you can come up with a little extra you will be much better off with this battery.
Also, a pure sine wave inverter will be far better for powering/charging sensitive electronics.
For an additional $250 or so, you'll have a battery and inverter that will both last years if used properly.
You don't want to use a linear regulator for this big of a voltage drop - you're going to waste a LOT of power (and you're going to need to dissipate that power loss as waste heat).
Easiest solution here is to use a Buck Converter - you can easily achieve >90% efficiency with this. You can either build one yourself, or if you look on amazon there's tons of them available (e.g. this one for <$10)
I'd need to read the specs, but that adapter is really meant to offload the power for the breadboard components from the RPi, not power the RPi itself. Most I've encountered require 6.5v or higher input since they're dropping the input to 3.3v and 5v. Test your power levels with a meter.
For a RPi 3b, you want a quality 5V 2.5 A power supply. Make sure that adapter can provide that. The one I linked to doesn't deliver 1/3 of that. You can get by with less, but < 1A is pushing it.
It's actually just a power supply made to fit on one of those protoboards and supply power to the rails.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=asc_df_B010UJFVTU5488754/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B010UJFVTU&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=194024095585&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=17101159569730068889&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9029787&amp;hvtargid=pla-314833700048
These little guys are hard to beat for what you're trying to do.
I would guess it's electrical/grounding.
Plug laptop into an isolation transformer and not directly into a wall socket and that might remove any hum: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Or maybe try to get an external DAC, and connect that DAC to the laptop via optical cable rather than USB - optical cable isn't electrical so wouldn't transmit any grounding hum or anything like that.
This isn't surprising.
> System76 products are compatible with world wide power grids. You may need to purchase a plug adapter for your computer.
This is saying that the charging brick is compatible worldwide, so you don't need to buy an expensive charging brick, but you still need to buy a cheap power cable or adapter.
You should be able to buy a cheap cable like this and plug it into the power brick. You should be able to find it at any computer hardware store. Or a simple adapter will do.
Your fridge won't run long on that battery via an inverter, mate. That being said, you can buy a dc-dc step-down converter like this to push down the voltage to 12V then use car/solar accessories.
You'll definitely have enough power to have light, mobile recharge, etc.
You could even use a step-up converter and charge your battery using solar panels.
Motor control is tricky at times. PWM or using a buck converter are really the best ways to do it. This is because it varies the voltage going into the motor as opposed to changing the electrical resistance of the circuit like resistors and thermistors do.
Using diodes in parallel would be really bad because diodes will drop .6V-.7V for every diode you put into the parallel branch, but have really small internal resistance. Meaning you'll take your 6V from your battery and drop it down to ~4.5V and have it short circuit through the diodes.
If you wired the diodes in series with the battery and flywheel motors though, you'll get your desired effect.
Got it for bias lighting when using my computer at night, I got it in warm white because I use F.Lux to change the color temperature of my screen to warm white. I still need to get a switch because it stays on even with my computer off. I already had the voltage converter laying around, otherwise I would have gotten a 5-volt led strip.
Product links:
LED Strip ($2.88)
Voltage converter ($11.99)
Baby breakout board uses a 5.5mm OD and 2.1mm ID plug.
This one from Amazon works:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745BZV6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Really hard to say. Depends on the source and nature of the noise. Best, of course, would be to find what is pissing in the pool and fix it. It could be that a "conditioner" will help, but those are usually just churched-up voltage regulators. What needs to happen is you need to magnetically isolate each element of your power (hot, neutral.. you've already lifted the ground) to see where the noise is coming from.
Also, as you should know, if the speaker requires a safety ground, then you shouldn't run without it. Lifting AC grounds for troubleshooting is fine, but you shouldn't run that way.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=asc_df_B00006HPFH5139298/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=394997&amp;creativeASIN=B00006HPFH&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=194017009123&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10338180432329554974&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9019608&amp;hvtargid=pla-311461649184
Just google, they are easy to find.
How's this:
https://www.rei.com/product/775157/rei-co-op-adapter-plug-e106-europe-and-asia
Or this, it has Amazon prime:
https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO
It depends on where you (i.e. your devices) are coming from. I'll assume USA.
Type F is the most common type of socket you'll find here. It's compatible with type C and E plugs as well.
AC voltage is 230 V at 50 Hz. Almost all portable electronic devices these days are universal (i.e. 100-240 V, 50/60 Hz) but check the label on the power adapter for your device just in case.
SKROSS adapters are the most popular around here and are probably the first ones you would encounter at the airport. They are pricey, versatile and high quality. But any cheap adapter from Amazon will work. Things to consider:
Something like this should be fine for any device supporting the local voltage (looks small, safe and durable).
In contrast the cheap-o ones look like this but they are not grounded and often have trouble staying in the wall if you tend to yank the cord of your charger.
If you REALLY need to convert voltage as well, there are step-down converters on Amazon for like $30-50 but they are heavy and a pain to drag along.
Here goes:
Parts list:
Fan- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395795979&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=120mm+fan
Grill-http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RFG-120-120mm-Grill-Cooling/dp/B0057JFO9Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395796001&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=120mm+fan+grill
Power supply-http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply-12VDC/dp/B006GEPUYA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395796047&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=12v+power+supply
Speed controller (optional)-http://www.amazon.com/Manual-Variable-Speed-controller-connector/dp/B002D3DK1I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395796082&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=12v+fan+controller
Parts Notes:
You can get any 120mm fan locally (or any of these parts), this one isn't special. Make sure to note that its 12v DC and take note the amerage. This is imporant in sizing your power supply and/or speed controller. You may have a 12v DC wall charger to an old something or other laying around. As long as it is 12v DC and is around 1A, you should be all set. 0.7A, fine. 2.5A, fine... etc
Installation- I would put the fan inside the box exhausting upwards so the top of your box stays flush. You could put it on top of the box and have it pulling air out should you wish. The grill is optional to protect stuff from falling in and your fingers. Installation should be straight forward. Use small wood screws to mount both the fan and the grill. Pre-drill depending on wood type and screw size.
Powering it up- If you don't have a volt meter, take note of the positive and negative ends of everything before you cut any wires off. Label them clearly. If the fan has a 4 pin molex connector note the red and black pins. Plug them into the corresponding Load/Device side pins from your speed controller. Cut (or _____) and connect the positive lead from your wall plug to the red wire of the line side of the speed controller. Connect the negative to the black wire. Check your connections, then plug in the wall pack. Your speed control should now be controlling your fan.
To make the fan simply run at full load, connect the positive to the red of the fan, negative to the black of the fan to omit the speed controller.
All of these parts can be found at Frys / Radio Shack / local electronics or computer store.
Written at a (6). Sorry if unclear, just send a message.
You could use a switch like this inside the pantry: LINK
to turn on a small light. I'm not sure about the code as far as running line voltage inside a cabinet (I think it's prohibited), but I'm pretty sure you can run 12VDC inside a cabinet.
Something like this (LINK) is plenty powerful enough to run a 12V led light.
you might be able to use just a physical adapter. A lot of times 240V parts will also work with 120V, just not the other way around. Not much danger in trying
for example, https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ (not endorsing this, just an example)
There are plenty of adapters available on Amazon. For example:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ceptics-Travel-Plug-Adapter-Type/dp/B0080SE6H2/
If it was me, I would just buy the US adapter and then sell the UK one on Amazon or eBay
All you need is this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0080SE6H2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491763540&amp;sr=8-10&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=plug+adapter
For programming, I had to provide the 3.3v power to the sonoff from a separate power source. My USB ports couldn't provide enough juice for programming so I used on of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
You'll need a 5v regulator to charge your phone. If you've got a extra battery tray lying around this buck convertor will do the trick. But it would probably be easier to hit up walmart and pick up a small portable battery bank. I've got a few that are about the size of a 26650 cell and say there 2400mah. You might even be able to find them at a dollar store but there quality may be a bit more dubious.
When looking for 26650's these are the only ones you should concern yourself with. All mooch's recommended 26650s and hes the best person to trust when it comes to batteries. Canvape usually has the best price on batteries in Canada. Otherwise if your cool ordering from the US hit up illumn or lightningvapes
AWT Yellow 75A 4500mAh
Basen Black 4500mAh
Brillipower Green 80A 4500mAh
Efest Green 20A 4200mAh
MXJO Yellow 35A 3500mAh
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K
Of course I couldn't waste all that energy from the exercise bike... so I thought I'd build a generator to capture some of it.
I have a working prototype using a NEMA 17 motor and a simple two bridge rectifier. I'm getting ~20-35v normal riding, but the problem is, at peaks I'm getting upwards of 45v. I was using a 2596-SDC (4-40V buck converter) but I let out the magic smoke when I rode on the bike at a fast pace.
My intent is to use this to charge a USB battery bank. I purchased a DC-DC buck converter (4.5-40V to 5V/2A), but I'm worried it will suffer the same fate.
Looking for advice on how to handle the overvoltage. Some sort of zener diode circuit?
I use two of these when I bring my Vive places since the original power cables are in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They work fine.
The cars have standard cigarette lighter chargers. I'm bringing a DC --> AC converter for charging batteries.
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2621-Smart-Power-Inverter/dp/B00HCOZZDY
I also bought this AC converter.
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Travel-Voltage-Converter-Charging/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=as_sl_pc_ss_til?tag=whatplug09-20&amp;linkCode=w01&amp;linkId=6G2Y5BIJLHSHZVKF&amp;creativeASIN=B00MSTG93S
Australia uses different voltage and plug types, so you'll either need to get something and take it with you, or buy something while you're there.
I Just got back from a family vacation in Australia. I bought this before I went:
BESTEK Portable International Travel Voltage Converter 220V to 110V with Interchangeable Worldwide UK/US/AU/EU Plugs + 4 USB(6A Max) Charging Ports for iPhone, iPad, Samsung, Tablet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_nuF-wb72SHF4C
It worked out perfectly for charging my MacBook via the AC, and then multiple mobile devices via USB.
Check the power adapter to see if its 120v-240v. I'm away from home so I can't check mine.
If its only 120v, you need this:
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-International-Converter-Interchangeable-Worldwide/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449962906&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=240v+to+120v+converter
If it says 120v to 240v you just need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Companion-Converter/dp/B00RBFK552/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449962986&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=Travel+adapter&amp;psc=1
You could also just buy a European power adapter. I know the 3DS is only 120v.
Does your breadboard come with a power supply? If not, this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T-ihzbKYP93BC
It has both a 3.3v and 5v line.
3.3/5V power supply that goes right into the breadboard in lieu of an adjustable Eventek.
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Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
If you have the space to hide a little hardware, and you're the DIY type (I have no idea what your comfort level is, please don't burn down your house), my personal approach would be to use a 12v power supply or transformer, and wire it to a Zigbee doodad, and then to an RGBW LED strip.
I would start with the Zigbee doodad, and then find a transformer or power supply that suits its input parameters that doesn't look like cheap Chinese crap that's going to fail within a couple months.
Example Zigbee doodads:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SDC83CB/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5/
One of those looks like it requires either a barrel jack to be wired up to plug it in, or you could take it apart and wired it directly, bypassing the barrel plug.
This is what I use to power LED strips:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC
But if that's too bulky, you can probably find a small potted (plastic/epoxy all sealed up) transformer that will work.
And make sure that your RGB strip works well with the Zigbee controller. I use RGBW where the W is warm white, which makes for much nicer indoor lighting, in my opinion.
I would worry about hiding anything in the wall where it wouldn't be easily accessible, and transformers do generate a little heat. Where does that grey wire go? If you can't hide the necessary hardware in the cabinet, then you need a lighting fixture that's large enough to contain it along with the LED strip.
[Breakout Board]
Was not looking to use a big atx pc power supply with the molex pins so I searched Amazon and found this $5 adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FK5XDY6/
Pairing with this power adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745BZV6T/
The barrel end of the molex adapter accepts a 5.5x2.1mm pin so any adapter with this size end that meets the 5V 3A Atomic Pi requirements should work.. I will update this post if have any issues using the above 2 items to power the board.
Currently using:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745BZV6T
and I have one of these wired to the breakout board:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079RCNNCK
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I'm using this one:
Satechi 75W Dual Type-C PD Travel Charger Adapter with 2 USB-C PD & 2 USB 3.0 Combined with a USB-C to Surface connector
Although I only need 45W for SP6, This charger lets me also charge up many other USB devices at the same time, and the brick size is comparable to the original Surface powerbrick also.
The Atom PD 4 you linked is Anker's only dual USB-C desktop charger. It would of met your requirements, though was also overkill. It has had availability issues since release.
With your devices you're looking for a charger that supports:
If the Note 10 changes fasting specs it'll go more toward USB-C Power Delivery, possibly up to 25W with PPS. But that's speculation.
Next closest Anker option is the PowerPort Speed 5 PD. Only one USB-C port, but will fast charge any of your devices. The USB-A ports support Apple 2.4A, an older fast charging tech the iPhone 11 should still support. It is a bit slower than USB-C PD or the included charger. But much faster than the old iPhone 5W charger. The Samsung will also charge via USB-A, but slower.
Best non-Anker option is probably the Satechi 75W Dual Type-C Travel Charger. Two USB-C ports, either will fast charge iPhone and Samsung. Top one charges iPad Pro at max rate (bottom works in a lot of cases, too). And two regular USB-A ports.
I am beginning to think these "split" chargers are just not working out. Here's https://www.reddit.com/r/UsbCHardware/comments/bgz4yo/anker_powerport_atom_pd_2_goes_on_sale_april_29th/elpe059/ another. I am not fully surprised , USB PD is complex and if you make a charger like this you can't use a reference implementation and there can be firmware bugs and -- curiously enough , none of these chargers have a firmware update mode.
There are fixed dual port chargers like this or this (these two might be the same electrically) that I'd trust a lot more. The upcoming Maru&Masa is fixed wattage, too.
There are isolation transformers for 120V AC. It might be overkill, but it would most likely solve your problem.
http://www.amazon.ca/Tripp-Lite-IS-250-Isolation-Transformer/dp/B00006HPFH
Crunching points to something in the amp being off, but hiss/hum could be a ground loop issue with your house's wiring, especially with nothing plugged in. If an amp tech can't find anything wrong with the amp, it may be worth investing in an isolation transformer like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
> Since it arrived, i've been trying to find a power supply that fits it, but I can't find one.
That's unusual. 9v jacks are fairly standardized…
Current draw is minimal, so you don't have to sweat that. 9VDC center-negative is the most common adapter there is, and there are a lot of options on Amazon. First one that pops up is a Planet Waves for 9 bucks. That should work just fine for you.
Well the thing is, 200mA is so low that it's rare to be a switcher unless they're trying to go for as compact a supply profile as possible. If you're in the US, you can probably get away with a wall wart IF you can get one with the correct polarity (I think it's center negative with all roland products).
So for example, a pure wall wart like this: https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-9V-Power-Adapter/dp/B00191WVF6/ref=sr_1_8?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498144064&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=pedal+power+supply&amp;refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
might do.
Oh okay, that's fine. If you have a link to the one you're thinking of, I can check it out and let you know what all you'd need.
Alternatively, if your budget is ~$60 total, here's a link to a ProCo Rat clone for much cheaper. It uses pretty much the same exact circuit, and sounds nearly identical.
For powering that clone (which uses the standard polarity), here is an inexpensive power supply. By searching "9v power supply" on Amazon I was also able to find inexpensive similar units that can power multiple pedals (if you decide to add on later).
Lastly, if you only have one cable to go from guitar to amp, you'll need a second one to go from guitar to pedal, then pedal to amp. If you're looking to buy something inexpensive, here's one that I used to own. It lasted me about five years before it gave out.
Those three together bring you to a total just under fifty bucks.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-Europe-Travel-Power-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO
I would actually recommend you to get a local one at every place you'd go through. For example, the EU uses a two pin plug converter, so just get one for that, and you're covered for both Germany and Austria.
There's no point in investing a lot for a multipurpose plug converter, because it costs way more than buying individual converters.
You can get one for $2 (Amazon) whilst a reputable universal travel adapter would cost at least $14 (Amazon)
So considering you have multiple devices, just get 2 of the $2 adapters, and you'll be fine.
https://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE
Use 100's of these at my work. Easiest and best option in my opinion.
Ok, if runs on AA batteries, the step-down converter I linked, powered by a 12V 1A wall transformer like this one will definitely work. No additional components needed, just adjust the output voltage of the step-down converter before connecting it to your device.
Side note: you mention the device 'essentially short circuiting', but for a heating element to be effective, it must have significantly higher resistance than the elements in series with it, in this case the battery and wires. I would bet that the heating element has a measurable resistance in the range of 1-5 ohms, measured while hot.
Also, it's pretty obvious you're modding a vaporizer, no need to be so evasive about it.
Oh, so something like this? and this ?
I doubt the poor Uno is able to deliver the amps required to run your transmitter. You should try using a separate power source (12V 1+ Amp Wall Wart like this) to power it.
Most 12V fans won't even start up on 5V, and that's not even counting the dropout voltage from the LM317.
Have you considered just getting a 12V wall wart?
Is this what you need?
https://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Canada-Travel-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=uk+to+us+adaptor&qid=1565657518&s=gateway&sr=8-4
The AC plug will likely be the European one. You may need to buy a US Adaptor or a travel adaptor
I have converter plugs, a couple old apple USB wall chargers, and generic three way charging cables in the drawer in my spare room. International guests are especially grateful.
After 18 months, none have disappeared.
I have one of these installed in my rig and its fantastic. It currently lives under the bench seat. If you are adding a second battery to an already existing auxillary battery setup be aware that the current life of your battery now can affect your new battery. Basically batteries need to be installed in the same condition (ideally new) or they can screw each other up. If you're just adding a new Aux battery that will be isolated from the starter battery you should be good.
ps4 is about 200w gaming and has pretty high idle consumption of 50w so disconnect when not in use. Add in the power usage from your TV (Let's say 100w which is overkill). Your laptop drawing 13A? That seems too high, no laptop draws 1500w. my high end laptop draws 170w. 1500w is a really big gaming computer with dual gpus.
I'd estimate ps4, tv, and laptop power usage at 400w (overestimated a bit) if you wanted to do that 6 hours a day that is 2,400kwh. I've read you shouldn't discharge a battery below 50% so cut any ratings in half.
This battery is good for 750 watt-hours
https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO
For your whole setup you would need 3.2, maybe 3 of those batteries.
Take this with a grain of salt, I'm good with power calculations, but don't have too much knowledge of solar system design.
Just two. Simple enough really. Someone posted this voltage converter a while ago, which will make adjusting the stir plate speed much, much simpler than figuring out a potentiometer/resistor combo to find the ideal speed (college circuits courses are failing me). Add in a fuse and an on/off switch, bolt it all together, and it should work out just fine.
They are both 5v cell-phone recharge batteries, got them off amazon on deal for around $10 each. Fully charged at around 4.6v, which under-powered the pi, and shows their (lack of) quality. discharges / recharges of the battery would decrease the amount, so I was scared of it damaging the Pi.
I hooked the batteries into series, hooked the (now ~9v) battery to a $15.00 step-down voltage converter I got from Amazon, and I set the output to 5.2v
The pi pulls the amperage it needs, and it's variable depending on the power use.
I consulted here for pi current draw specs
Raspberry Pi Model B+ 1.8A 600mA/1.2A (switchable) 330mA
I gave it 2A of available current to draw.
The rainbow box in the top right (the under-power symbol from the past) doesn't show up anymore, and it's properly powered.
The batteries are no longer shielded, so it's a possible concern of leakage over long time, and I'm aware of it and not using this for more than a hobby cam :)
Have a look at good old EEVBlog's post on building an electronics lab. If you're young then you're probably going to have a hard time affording stuff like a new oscilloscope and you won't need stuff like function generators for your project, but that video should give you some ideas about tools and parts. Since you're just getting started I recommend buying them as you go along.
The bare essentials though are IMO:
Now here's the tough part - an oscilloscope. For what you want to do (working with the speakers and audio) as well as in general, an oscilloscope would be an absolute gift from the gods and would also teach you a ton, but it's going to be pretty much impossible to find one new for a reasonable price. You can get a surprisingly decent digital scope these days for ~$300, but I know that would have been way too much for me to afford when I was younger. Instead, you might want to try asking around any local electronics factories/repair shops/universities/etc to see if they have any old scopes they want to get rid of. Tell them you're young and trying to get started and that you'd be really happy to take an old scope off their hands (analog is perfectly fine too). Even if it's broken, if you can fix it that'll teach you a lot as well. If you can't find one though I wouldn't worry about it, it's not something you must have and would merely be useful.
I've been using this as a speed controller on my stir plate and have been really happy with it. It costs a little more than buying components and building your own circuit but it's worth it to me.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO
This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.
This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.
If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&amp;pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&amp;pd_rd_w=1kwf3&amp;pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE
I've used one from this manufacturer on a project and it worked well:
http://amzn.com/B00C4QVTNU
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468801923&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=battery+charger
Everything past /dp/B00EB7812C should be removed.
Hi mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike mike!
I'm a stay at home mom. It's super stressful and lonely sometimes, but it's also pretty rewarding. This battery charger off of my needs wish list would be really helpful. I always have so many projects going on, batteries are in pretty high demand. I don't like using the throw away kind, they are expensive and don't last very long around here, so being able to charge a lot at once would be incredibly beneficial. Edit: I can't use words.
http://imgur.com/a/24BVq
The actual installation could have been better, I was in a hurry but it works lol
It's a wireless charger, so I just plop my phone in the dock and I get a nice little trickle charge. I took the dash cam out the other day, but it basically just went up the A-pillar trim and tucked nicely beneath the top of the windshield frame thing.
I used these guys to step down the 12v from the car to an acceptable 5v
USB has a pretty strict voltage requirement. You'll probably want to start with locating a voltage regulator that will limit the voltage that reaches the charger to 5 volts. Then, I assume the dynamo has a positive and a negative terminal of some sort, simply hook those up to the appropriate inputs on the voltage regulator.
Something like this should do the trick, and provides a USB output.
http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/
I'm using one of these to power my pi. It's hooked up to the power supply 12V. I wanted the entire printer and octopi setup to be switched through the main power supply switch.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
It should have plenty of juice to power the pi and peripherals. If you cut one of the traces on it, you don't have to press the button to turn it on every time. Read the amazon reviews.
Tube amps have different terminology than I'm used to (filament what now), but it looks like it needs 12V 2A minimum to be safe. You could use anything from a wall-wart like THIS to a custom built DIY amplifier power supply.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QIbMxbNFX0YHC This adapter has been reported to work.
ohh yes I forgot it's not included. You're going to need a power thing for it. I heard this works well. Keep in mind that you will also need an extra HDMI and USB (male to male) cables as well.
I think it's really silly they don't include them with the box to be honest.
When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1I mounted a
I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts
I don't know if your Sony battery charger has a voltage Convertor (transformer) built in but this is what many people don't realize when they travel. A plug adapter to fit a US plugs into a foreign socket isn't enough. You also need to convert the power coming from the foreign socket (usually 220-230volt) down to the US standard of 110v. I used this when I was traveling and it worked wonderfully. Apple chargers typically already have the Convertor built into the small white brick/cube that plugs into the wall which would explain why your able to charge your phone.
If your Sony battery charger does have a Convertor built in or you're using one with the plug adapter and its still not working, you might need to charge via a USB from your apple plug or possibly charge through the USB cable from your computer. Don't know why it would stop working if using a power Convertor though.
I was abroad in Europe and Africa for the first half of this year. I took the SKROSS adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072OOJCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7tluyb08XH73T) and the BESTEK power converter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvluybEB1BZW6) with me, and they both worked flawlessly
The digital logic design circuits take 3.3-5v I think, and the lab has 5-12v power supply. It's been a while so excuse me if my numbers are off.
You can power a circuit using a battery and some know-how, if you've taken a circuits class or have worked with circuits before. This is the dangerous option because if you don't know what you're doing you could easily blow something out. Check the current your transistors take, use resistors and a multimeter and you can have functioning circuits in your dorm room.
You can also buy one of these. You're using TTL so 0-5V is the range you want, you just have to be careful of the current once again.
You could drop a lot more money and get one of these as well, and make your room really feel like a lab.
Rigging up your own supply is dangerous, be cautious.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484834586&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=12v+power+supply#customerReviews
Best one I could find with half decent reviews. Obviously more current than you require, but its cheap and will get the job done.
If you have one shot to buy an inexpensive import power supply using amazon prime, I'd suggest something like this.
Just like UL and FCC labels, the actual current rating can be optimistic at best, and many of the supplies I've come across will enter fault protection at 50-80% of their rated load. Better to get something that will meet your demands even worst case.
I found a step up voltage converter that fits your needs. USB ports are only specified to output 1 amp at 5 volts. I don't know how much this device will draw to power your fan. As far as the connectors go, just cut them off.
https://www.amazon.com/KUNCAN-Converter-Step-Voltage-2-1mm/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492185690&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=5%2Bto%2B12%2Bvolt%2Bconverter&amp;th=1
Edit: Oh, and be sure that the power supply that is powering the Pi has enough extra power to power this thing
the ones that fail like you describe are the ones that have voltage steppers and capacitance, this generic USB cable in the post is fine.
You need this. And a high amperage usb power supply
KUNCAN 5ft Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter to Dc 5.5 x 2.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyA.Ab7JFJMHW
I use this KUNCAN Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter Adapter Black Regulator From Power Bank 6.5ft Am to Dc 5.5*2.1mm.
Run it off a varriety of power pack for hours. I got the electrical department to do some testing and light house dont use close to 2 amp draw, actually the power usage flitters as the beacon pulses.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01ID90K4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492283242&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=5v+usb+to+12v&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Ke4FpPrjL&amp;ref=plSrch
Standard USB power is 5 volts. Your camera needs 7.2 volts to operate. I couldn't find anything manufactured to do this so I put together a step up circuit for my T2i for timelapses and it worked quite well. You're at the whim of whatever quirks the bank and transformer has, so it's not without risk (warranty is likely out the window). I used AmazonBasics' old 16,000mAh power bank, now discontinued, but any USB 3.0 bank *should* work. Tried with another bank and it kept going to sleep between exposures. The step up circuit was similar to these. Just solder the input to a usb cable from your bank, and the out to a camera AC adapter. Gonna need a multimeter while you adjust the pot to get the correct voltage. The tough part is packaging it so the solder joints don't come loose from movement. Let me know if you're interested in this approach and I'll dig it out. Been a while since I've been somewhere worth shooting. Again, I don't recommend it if you want to avoid any risk to your camera.
Would it be possible to cut off the molex end and splice/attach to something of this nature? Or is that less safe or inferior to usb power?
https://www.amazon.com/Berls-Regulated-Transformer-Controller-Connectors/dp/B0745BZV6T/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521664940&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=5v+power+supply&amp;psc=1
People are buying this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745BZV6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;pldnSite=1
No shit. I just received the barebones board today and must have opened about 30 different browser tabs trying to figure out how to power the damn thing *tonight* with what I have on hand (not much, basically a PC power supply with molex connector.) Can't do it.
&#x200B;
Didn't want to leave a bad review for the seller, but for a while there I was SERIOUSLY thinking about just returning it cuz I could feel my blood pressure literally rising and stress getting to be a little too much.
&#x200B;
Ended up ordering a $10 power supply, $7.50 10-pack of ends for the adapter, and a $6 pack of dupont breadboard wires. So all in all ~$23.50 extra expense JUST TO GET POWER (and JACKLEG power, at that!) TO THE BOARD. Because the easier way, the mini breakout board, is out of stock on Amazon until June 6th or something. We'll see if it's worth it. If not, next step is prolly a Jetson Nano.
&#x200B;
GenBasic 80 Piece Male to Male 4 and 8 Inch Solderless Ribbon Dupont-Compatible Jumper Wires for Breadboard Prototyping
Sold by: LoveRPi - $5.99
Chanzon (10 x Female) 12V DC Power Connector 5.5mm x 2.1mm 24V Power Jack Socket for Led Strip CCTV Security Camera Cable Wire Ends 10Pcs Plug Barrel Adapter
Sold by: Chanzon - $7.49
IBERLS AC to DC Regulated Transformer Wall Power Adapter Supply Cord Plug Charger 5V 3A(Compatible with 5V2A) for LED Pixel Light, USB-HUB, Kindle Fire Tablet, DJ Controller, Nextbook
Sold by: IBERLS - $9.99
I would second the hard drive situation. I would instead maybe subscribe to a Flickr account or something while I am traveling, and upload photos from my ipad/laptop whenever i get internet. I would maybe keep 1 portable ssd (like the Samsung T5 500gb) as its really lightweight, and wouldnt get damaged from being thrown around. Use that for backing up things when I dont have internet.
Are you planning on taking a laptop? If so which one?Because you can actually get multi-port chargers with USB C Power delivery so you can carry one brick for charging. Alternatively, I have seen Anker with USB chargers with built in batteries
I would say take your gopro with you. Especially if you like anything sporty, kayaking, gokarts, zip lining etc. I have had friends who took their gopro and left their dslrs when they go away.
I agree about the multiple lenses, think about taking a multi zoom (the 18-55 F2.8-F4 will be awesome for this) and maybe a fixed prime (I like the 23mm F2 - the 35mm equivalent focal length is really amazing). If you want to travel light, I would skip the telephoto. Also, dont forget the extra batteries.
If you havent gotten the XT1 yet, consider getting the Olympus EM5ii second hand with the 14-150mm or the newer 12-200mm lens. You will not need anything else, in rains, storms, snow, deserts or anywhere.
I would say pack a GOOD rain jacket. You are traveling to SE Asian counties, rain is going to be very common. You want to make sure you have a good rain jacket. I would say if you can get a back that includes a rain cover, its a good idea. There is nothing as bad as getting somewhere and finding everything in your bag is drenched. On a trip to europe, I was hauling my bags in the rain from a train station to the hostel and my things in the bag did get a little wet.
Did you consider the Peak Design travel pack? Or the Topo designs travel bag? They are also good alternatives if you were still undecided on the travel pack.
Instead of the sweater, get an Icebreaker base layer (something like the 260 is good). You can wear this inside your tshirt and it keeps you warm AF. I am wearing the Icebreaker 200 bottoms as I type. Some of the best in the world.
something like this? what wattage do i need? https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Are you thinking it's a ground loop that can be resolved by something like this, or are you thinking something more like this?
If this doesn't solve the issue, then it is the speakers themselves that are bad in some way, or whatever interface they are plugged into (be it a DAC, computer, etc).
Edit: I noticed my post is worded with a poor tone. I'm not actually 100% sure that this is the issue, I just have a pretty strong sense that it probably is. I am not an electrician, though.
Well I am not sure its line noise. It could be a noisy power supply disrupting the radio signal.
One of these might help if it is line noise causing the trouble:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH
Lots of good information here, I appreciate it.
I'll check outside tomorrow and see if i can find anything leading to the ground. The only thing I saw last time was two metal cables which were bolted down to the pipe system near the water heater/furnace, and that's in the basement, but I didn't look outside.
The isolation transformer I've been using is this Tripp Lite IS250. It did literally nothing, or if it is, it's not discernible to me.
I've tried plugging just the amp, sans cables/pedals/guitars into the power outlets and it still makes the noise. It's relative to the master/gain/volume switches, so when you turn them up the noise gets worse. And worse again on the dirty channel. Strangely enough I did attempt to lift the ground just to test it on one of the amps and it made a slight difference, the other two it made no difference.
Go to Goodwill. And find a power pack. One of the black boxes that plug into the wall. Check the lable for 9volt dc. Or you can buy new......... Check this out: D'Addario Accessories PW-CT-9V DC Power Adapter - Minimize Need ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00191WVF6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_RdtjDb0KAYQ36
Most power adapters marketed for guitar pedals are regulated. I haven't seen a pedal that requires an unregulated adapter in years. the last unregulated pedal I bought was a big box EHX holy grail 14 years ago. Any power supply that says it is compatible with a boss PSA adapter will be regulated. also be careful. some of the PSU boxes have unregulated outputs to accommodate those older boss and EHX pedals. But here are some options that I know for certain are regulated and will work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00191WVF6/ , http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002GZLZQ/ , http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-PSA-120S-Power-Adapter/dp/B0012BPMHW
alright, last question, will this fit into it (the one i bought doesnt have the power supply) https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-9V-Power-Adapter/dp/B00191WVF6
If the adapter you have is the same as the one you linked to, then no. As it has the wrong shape. The Europlug has tapering sides, not rounded sides like the adapter you linked to.
Here would be a proper adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Ckitze-US-EU-Travel-Europe-Adapter/dp/B001EB26MO/
> Middle East
It's really going to depend on where and what base. Any place that started American is going to use the same outlets. If it was the Europeans, you'll usually see this. Best bet is to get there and bum/buy some until you can order them. The PX will usually have a bunch of the correct type if they are needed.
> Just buy a cheap USB charger for $1 when you land so you have a local plug.
If he has a US charger that will work in Japan and South East Asia. Add a tiny euro converter to it (which you can get locally for like 50c) and it will work in India and Europe as well. It will also work in the UK/Ireland/Malaysia/Singapore, incidentally, you just need to press in the earth pin in the socket to get it in. This is what I travel with mostly, American plugs and that little adapter.
I'm slightly wary of the really cheap Chinese USB chargers, in my experience branded chargers tend to work better and may be less of a safety risk. I usually only use the one really cheap one I have to charge other cheap stuff that only requires a low current.
But for Japan/SE Asia US plugs work the best anyway.
Whatever drive you get, if you are getting a 2.5" and need it to fit in your iMac make sure you buy a Icy Box, other adaptors or brackets will mean that your connectors are too far from the drive or the screw holes and mounting points won't match up. The Icy Box will make sure its identical to a 3.5" drive.
Source: Having to open my computer up 3 times to try and get the right fit! Not fun!
We always used these in the datacenter I was in:
ICY DOCK 2.5" to 3.5" SAS / SATA HDD & SSD Converter
This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.
>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&amp;hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.
That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.
Yes. I've done it. My 2008 Mac Pro is still a monster of a machine! I got an Icy Dock which lets you mount a 2.5 inch drive in the Mac Pro's hard drive bays.
http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE
Once you've got an SSD, just clone (Carbon Copy Cloner) your existing boot drive to the SSD and then swap the drive or put the SSD in one of the three other bays.
As for SSD choice, I'll defer to the other more knowledgeable redditors about that. :)
A ton of zip ties or velcro straps and two 2.5 to 3.5 converters so you can place it in those 3.5" drive bays. If you don't have enough slack to reroute the cables around the back, get some Silverstone Tek extension cables.
http://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Extension-Motherboard-Connector-PP07-MBBR/dp/B00HWQUKCS
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Sleeved-Extension-Connector-PP07-EPS8BR/dp/B00H45K58Q
Neither, I use ICY DOCK and like devices, you can get Icy Dock for single SSD/HDD to multiple drives. I use it to change my boot drive to transferring data from my PC to laptop and so on. So the 2.5" part is to insert a boot SSD (Window or a Linux distribution OS) and the 3.5" I use to transfer data or back it up to a 6T HDD.
For my desktop I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJ8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5-25in-Trayless-Mobile-3-5in/dp/B000KS8S9W/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/145-7509564-3873745?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KS8S9W&pd_rd_r=eef1512f-6959-4fde-9177-ce62c8768090&pd_rd_w=RY63p&pd_rd_wg=xKSNf&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ&psc=1&refRID=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ that needs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 if I want to use a 2.5" drive to transfer info.
For my laptop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1QLJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so I don't have a DVD any more but any hot swap SSD port now. :-) Or press my keys to select a boot device and boot another OS.
Icy Dock does offer this same technology https://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=245, just an idea, a flexible idea to me. Win on one NVMe SSD, a Linux distro on an other NVMe SSD, and have as many as you want this way, I do.
They don't come in the 3.5" size, so you need to buy an adapter if you want to install them in the Mac Pro tower. I bought the Icy Dock adapter, and it worked perfectly.
The performance change is absolutely greater than anything else you can do. Boot times are on the order of 5-10 seconds—under 30s to logged in and ready. Software upgrades, compiling, opening and closing big files are practically instantaneous. Adobe PhotoShop CS 5.5 starts in 3-4 seconds. An SSD can often outperform the SATA interface, while a HDD can't even saturate it when used optimally.
You need to install Trim Enabler, which is (legally) free for what matters. Don't listen to others who say the drive(s) have "garbage collection"—it's not the same thing, and only enabling TRIM will guarantee preserving the long-term performance of the SSD. Once you install TE, go into settings and enable "Check for Trim support on boot". This ensures TRIM doesn't get disabled during system updates!
As far as models, if you plan on being a heavy data user, I still recommend the Samsung 840 Pro (must be Pro), the technology is better for power users. On the other hand, I installed a Crucial MX100 model in two laptops recently. They perform great, and are significantly cheaper. I haven't had them as long as the 840.
The process I used for the Mac Pro was to install the OS clean, then point it at my older install. Honestly, I wouldn't do that again. It was slow and more error-prone.
Instead, for the laptops, I used CarbonCopyCloner, and simply clone the OS to a freshly formatted SSD (note: format as Mac Extended (Journaled)). It took a lot less time, and didn't seem to have any negative side effects. Note: the first time you reboot, the OS needs to rebuild all the caches, and Spotlight needs to reindex everything, so it's a bit slower than you'd expect. Let it run for a while or overnight, then you'll see the true performance.
Finally, since I have room for many drives, I keep a spare drive in the computer just for the daily temporary stuff. I actually symlinked my Downloads folder to the spare drive, and I moved all my virtual machines there as well. This reduces wear-and-tear on the SSD, since those are usually temporary files that are used once and then deleted, or big files that I don't really care about. I keep my music and videos there, as well.
I recently put one of these adapters in my 2950 to house my 120GB SSD. Works well.
It's cheap construction, but since I won't be swapping it out frequently, I think it will be fine. Apparently they sell a nicer version (i.e., metal) for like 2x the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is what I ultimately bought. So far it's working great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Something like this
If you're like me, you have about a dozen lying around. Usually the positive wire will have a stripe or dashes printed on it. The best bet would be to test to determine. In this case, if you have it backwards, it probably just wouldn't work.
Let me preface this by saying that I'm not an expert. But if you want this to run continuously, you'll want a DC power supply, maybe something like this instead. The batteries will lose charge over time, meaning the fan will run slower and eventually stop. Also, your fan pulls about 1 Amp, meaning that the internal resistance (?) of the batteries and the fan may mean that you won't be able to run it at all (the required current would be greater than the maximum current available from the batteries). But yes, to answer your question about hooking up, if you connected the red wire to the positive terminal of a 12 volt battery and the black wire to the negative, it would run, assuming it could supply enough amperage to make it run. If you bought something like the power supply I linked, you can just cut the end off of it and wire up the positive wire to the red wire of the fan and the negative wire to the black wire of the fan.
Something like this, maybe?
I'm not entirely sure if the plug would fit.
I dont know why you would get any other type of fan. Computer fans are meant to be run continuously and are virtually silent. just get a 140mm pc fan, and a wall plug with 12 volt 1 amp output and just splice the wires together. With 1 amp you should be able to run two fans in a parallel configuration no problem.
power supply
Fan i use this fan. its quiet and moves a decent amount of air. i only use one since i have no carbon filter. so if you want one you may need two fans in a push pull configuration
The charger does support 100-240v, so he could probably also just buy an adapter like this instead of having to get a different charger
Comprate uno alla, los venden en Radio Shack o cualquier store de electronica. Salen entre 10 y 20 dolares. Yo tengo uno de estos y funciona perfecto:
http://www.amazon.com/Ceptics-Grounded-Universal-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0080SE6H2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_198_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=31GxIZe2bfL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL200_SR160%2C200_&amp;refRID=067SD7MJXVYKGMMMX55T
>To my understanding, the relay is connected to the ignition so when the vehicle is started
Yes that's a way you can do it, but imagine that you're camping and you totally depleted your deep cycle battery, and now you have an empty battery and a good battery, as soon as you turn your key (even before the engine is running) both batteries will be connected in parallel. If you try to start your car you'll find that you cant since the good battery is essentially charging the bad battery, if you keep trying start your car you'll soon find the the voltage of both batteries is 6v. If you find yourself in this situation you will have to manually unplug the depleted battery to be able to start the car. This scenario is exactly what the power stream is meant to prevent since it will not connect both batteries unless the alternator is outputting 13.4v.
Yeah I guess for your application the Goal Zero is the way to go. That's why I Initially just mentioned an extra battery with a cheap inverter hooked to it, and charge it whenever you come home. If you want to charge it while on the road just take the leads of a cigarette lighter plug and connect them directly to the extra battery to charge it, it'll be a slow charge (5~10Amps) but that's exactly how the Yeti Goal Zero does it. But if you have the $600 to spend on the yeti, go ahead.
that kit and get a one or two [deep cell] (https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475104512&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=deep+cell+battery) batteries. You can also use a marine battery.
Two Panels: https://www.amazon.com/ALLPOWERS-Bendable-SunPower-Resistant-Irregular/dp/B013E07FNM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495643866&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=solar+panel+flexible
Four Batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495643913&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=battery+vmax
Charge Controller: https://www.amazon.com/CoZroom-Charge-Controller-Regulator-Intelligent/dp/B01ERF0LHA/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495643961&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=charge+controller
Inverter: https://www.amazon.com/Samlex-Solar-PST-2000-12-Pure-Inverter/dp/B00AYH69UE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495644314&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samlex+solar+pst-2000
Absolutely!
Another issue is that might be the constant draw but with a peak amp usage of 30 amps when the compressor is first kicking in and what not. I know there's a few solar subreddits, I'll see what they have to say.
Edit:
Not the same model, but a similar fridgeaire being talked about. Looks like they don't list starting amps/watts on their page, so that 4.5 amps is probably closer to 12 or 13a during startup.
http://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/4507/smallest-most-efficient-a-c
> Re: smallest, most efficient A/C ?
> FYI UPDATE
> I emailed Frigidaire and asked about running that 5200btu EER11 a/c unit from a generator. It took a while, but I finally got a reply.
> "Product = Air Conditioner
> Model Number = FAA055P7A
> Low Voltage Start-Up: Systems are designed to start at 10% below their name plate rated voltage under normal operating conditions.
>This is the voltage requirements: Read the manual for generator to understand about start up voltages and requirements.
>Electrical Information
>Voltage 115
>Amps - Cooling 4.5
>Watts - Cooling 475
>Starting Amps 11.5
>Starting Watts 1,322.50 Note: Generator must be capable of handling this amount of wattage for start up plus whatever else is on the generator.
>Fuse/Breaker (Amps) 15
>Power Cord Amps Min 13"
> EDIT: I inquired further about how low-voltage start-up is achieved (actually, repeated my original query). I quickly received a reply:
> "However to answer your question the fan comes on first and about 3 min later the compressor comes on to keep the starting wattage down. The wattage I gave for start up is absolutely required or it could damage the product."
>So the "low-voltage start-up" on the Frigidaire units is a timer delaying compressor starting until the fan is up to speed.
>The RV "hard start" mod adds an additional capacitor, and usually that capacitor has a timer to delay firing - which achieves both easier compressor starting AND compressor delayed starting.
So with all that I think expect a draw of 1500 watts/13A at startup..... which still seems lower than I would expect. Everyone says you need a crazy large system to handle AC and I'm starting to think a 4000 watt inverter. 2 high efficiency panels and a couple 125a AGM batteries could handle it (albeit for short bursts of 10-20 minutes and understanding it'll have a recharge rate of 3-5x longer than the AC usage.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACNO2AO/
What am I missing? This seems too easy.. if it was wouldn't everybody be doing it?
I did a project about 3 years ago for an emergency lighting system. None of those dinky plug-in units that will barely light your feet as you walk past. No this thing lights up the whole house using those long 5-meter 12V LED strips you find on eBay. And it will output high brightness for well over 24hrs, though never tested that long. Longest outage so far was 1/2 day.
I got a 125AH deep-cycle marine battery:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACNO2AO
A smart charger:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSHQW0
A 12V automotive relay (to switch to battery on power outage), some 12V LED strips, wires, panel-mount volt/ammeters. The system's been running fine for 3 years.
I just got this one from amazon. Free shipping, thank goodness, since it weighs 75 pounds. 125 amp/hrs, AGM sealed battery, needs no venting or battery box. I just strapped mine o the floor, under the bed. Requires a good charge controller. Should last 10 years or so with no care what so ever. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACNO2AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
GFCI tripping would be current going through earth, not related to the power load directly. Could just be noise, in which case a power conditioner/line filter could help, which you can get as part of a UPS, or separately, such ash this https://www.amazon.com/PCO850-Conditioner-Mountable-Protector-Outlets/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467521254&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=power+conditioner
Could also be an actual grounding issue, check that your inverter's DC ground terminal is properly connected to both battery negative, and a grounding electrode of some kind.
if one of these on the television doesn't fix it, you'll be needing a new hdmi cord with stronger shielding.
https://www.amazon.com/PDU-Power-Strip-Surge-Protector/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z0M13YVHTC8EM4A698D5
&#x200B;
i'd say use it on the fridge, but the peak amperage when the compressor kicks on usually causes a quick surge more than 15 amps.
>line conditioner
I found this line conditioner which is ok cheap. Maybe this would be better?
https://www.amazon.com/PDU-Power-Strip-Surge-Protector/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=lp_10967061_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1564108537&sr=1-1
I've tried different places with the house, and I still end up with a small baseline hum. I was thinking of maybe investing in one of these
I've been researching Power Conditioners, and there are a lot of differing opinions out there. I'm wondering if anyone here has an idea if it would be worth it to purchase something along these lines in order to improve my sound quality and/or protection, and if so, which one would be best. Thanks!
Furman
Nady
Pyle
https://www.amazon.com/PCO850-Conditioner-Mountable-Protector-Outlets/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498711798&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=line+conditioner
might help
I have just been looking at power conditioners but stuggling to find ones that will work in the uk as we use 230 V over the US 120 V. Do you have any you reccomend that 230 V will work? This one here http://www.amazon.com/PCO850-Conditioner-Mountable-Protector-Outlets/dp/B00BQO5G4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453933833&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Pyle+power+conditioner is what I presume you mean but it says its not switchable so it won't work with 230 V
Yeah I'm using this power supply with current conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5G4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And I'm using a Walrus Audio Phoenix isolated pedal power supply (plugged into the above power supply).
I even ordered a Friedman Buffer Bay to see if that would help - no dice.
I wanted to chalk it up to something weird about the power in my house (it is an older house with aluminum wiring), but my Blackstar Artist 30 is dead quiet, so I've just been throwing the pedals I want in the loop in that and using it alongside the Orange as a wet/dry configuration.
Thanks for the tip, though.
Currently using this cheap 9-outlet power conditioner.
Will likely get another one shortly, as I use around 16 outlets.
I had really good luck with this one for less than $50. When I moved into my current apartment (building built in the 1880's), my system was unstable and I could barely hold any overclocks, when where i was living previously (house built in the 1980s) I had no issues. I got this power conditioner and I run my PC power through it, along with a very high quality PSU (Corsair RM1000i) and everything has been perfectly stable since.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQO5G4O/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I built my own setup. https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/t1.0-9/10469048_802616879762394_7511436800829330098_n.jpg
I have since set it up so that I can use anything 4-40v and charges at 3 amps max.
buck power converter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
solar panels
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CBT8A14/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
rechargeable batteries
5 of these
http://www.amazon.com/Exell-5000mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-Button/dp/B00JPPLJTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405218205&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=1.2v+rechargeable+d+batteries
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-D-Cell-Linkable-Battery-Holder-D-Set-of-5-/181205540311?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;hash=item2a30b11dd7
This setup has allowed me to go all day. I'm sure there are areas where this could be improved and i'm open to anything someone smarter knows. I have walked and biked around all day with no issues. Normally I will see a 3% drop every 1hr of play. This also actively charges the battery pack. I'm still trying to up my amperage so if someone can tell me how to do that let me know
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYTEHQO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_IOzKxbCB2Y7KS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C93Z8JY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KPzKxbWHW3VRC
This is the one I have. Avoid if possible. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
you are going to be pushing it with this unit. Without no load, the 24V tranformer of an HVAC system can output almost 29V. It is designed to drop down to the 24V range under full load. You could see spikes of almost 39Vdc after rectification in some cases. That might be too much for this guy. I had the same dilemma as you and went with this unit that can accept up to 40V Dc instead. I have had 0 problems with these in my circuit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYTEHQO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This unit is nice because it will show you the input voltage and output voltage without having to break out the volt meter.
Today I got a configurable regulator, wireless adapter, and wireless pigtails so I could untether my Galileo.
Now it's operating off a 2s 7.6v lipo and ready to be the new brain of my good old tracked robot. The antennas came from an old router.
For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have found this option for a 12v battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Phosphate-Rechargeable-Self-discharge-Replacement/dp/B07Q7FY8CC
Which would then require a charger as well...
Or this option for a boost regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-90483-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00C4QVTNU
I think I will try the later, based on this guy's YouTube explanation: https://youtu.be/jLia59KfkSw
Thanks!
Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.
Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.
Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY
And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.
I've been using one of these for years:
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C?th=1
This is one of the best AA battery charges.
EBL 8 Bay AA, AAA, Ni-MH, Ni-CD Rechargeable Battery Charger - Upgraded ETL Certified
https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519066606&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=aa%2Bbattery%2Bcharger&amp;th=1
I had this charger but it was black and I think it had a different name on it it broke after a year and a half I believe. The good thing about this charger is it can charge one battery at a time. The bad thing about this charger if a battery is 100% DEAD it won't charge the battery because its a smart charger and it needs to read the chip I believe in the battery and when the battery is 100% DEAD it won't charge the battery. This is when the EBL charger saved my ass because I needed to charge batteries for a wedding. Its a good charger because it can charge each battery all the way up and it has a feature that it will drain a battery and recharge it so the battery works better but get the EBL battery charger first also I get two EBL charges one for a back up if you do event work. Fstoppers on YouTube did a review about batteries they showed one of the best charges.
Tenergy TN160 12-Bay AA/AAA NIMH/NICD LCD Smart Battery Charger
https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-TN160-12-Bay-Battery-Charger/dp/B006ML9SO0/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519067012&amp;sr=8-30&amp;keywords=aa+battery+charger
This might be the one Fstoppers showed off. I think I saw another one that was like this with a different name.
La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger
https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-BC700-CBP-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519067023&amp;sr=8-16&amp;keywords=aa+battery+charger
Thanks for the quick reply. And great question!
I'll be using these predominantly for camping. So, probably one weekend a month for 6 out of every 12 months.
Most of my gear takes either AAA or AA or CR123. Right now I have a full stock of everything but AAA. And I'll need 12 batteries for each outing.
I've gone out in the woods recently and failed to bring extra batteries. The appeal of rechargeables, allow me to be more confident before going out into the wild for a weekend.
I found a two options:
A battery recharge kit with 12 rechargeable batteries for about $22
[Recharge Kit - $10](EBL 8 Bay AA, AAA, Ni-MH, Ni-Cd Rechargeable Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T8R6xb5WA9P3B)
[Rechargeable Batteries - 12 pack $12](EBL AAA 800MAH Rechargeable Battery (12 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EV1D7MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x9R6xb8TNM4CG)
Or
[36 Pack AAA $10](AmazonBasics AAA Performance Alkaline Batteries (36-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LH3DMUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9iP6xbS3GXYWJ)
I don't have one that I can recommend from personal experience. The following have god reviews and much of what I would look for in a charger.
http://www.amazon.com/EBL%C2%AE-Version-Charger-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412272480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=battery+charger
That seems like a good charger with some basic features for a good price.
http://www.amazon.com/La-Crosse-Technology-Battery-Charger/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412272480&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=battery+charger
This charger, on the other hand, has all the features you could possibly want but you pay for them all.
A few features that make a surprisingly big difference.
Capacity. If you blow through batteries you might need more than a 4 slot charger.
Speed. If you're down to your last charge cell it can be annoying to wait for hours before it reaches a usable charge.
Battery indicator. Some chargers offer a full battery status report and some offer a simple light that is red for charging and green for full.
Charge cut-off/trickle charge. Over charging a battery will reduce it's working life and a bad charger will just keep pumping juice into it until you remove the cell. A good charger will cut off power or change to trickle charge to keep it at peak performance for longer.
Single cell charging. The basic battery charger I have will only charge batteries in sets of two. That means I can't charge one or three at a time. More of an inconvenience than a real problem.
What voltage regulation is needed on 4xAAs? They'll output 4.8V nominally without regulation. 8x AA chargers are around $10
Those USB battery packs are always made out of just 18650 batteries anyway. There's a reason why the Tesla Model S is built out of 18650: they are the highest performing part for the most acceptable price.
You simply aren't going to beat the 18650... but NiMH AAs might be cheaper (although a bit heavier). The only other technology out there worth talking about is Lead-Acid. But Lead-Acid is very heavy and bulky and I doubt they'd be practical for any costume.
http://www.amazon.com/Ni-MH-Ni-Cd-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=414XqbHiKoL&amp;dpPl=1&amp;keywords=nimh%20battery%20charger&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1447726994&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
Sorry about your batteries. This one takes awhile, like overnight, but the 8-battery capacity really makes up for it.
Assuming your headphones are using are a typical .25 watt drivers that can add up. I think the moral of the story on this is that if you have an old P&C battery pack. You should either crack it open and replace the AAA batteries inside it with some new higher mAh rated ones, or get a good set of AA rechargables and a stand alone charger for them. There are three links in here that get you to batteries that would do you well. The Amazon ones that I linked to have mAh ratings between the Enloop ones linked in u/jimbonics's post, and cost half the price.
This charger is decent, Just take the batteries out when the light is green:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQ6K7TC/
Edit:
Charger Only: https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Battery-Charger/dp/B00EB7812C
I just ordered this amazon basics high-capacity 8 pack:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZV9WTM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Along with this 8 battery smart charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB7812C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They cost $30.18 after tax and have great reviews. I really don't care if they hold charge for years or last 1000s of cycles I just want to always have a backup set of batteries to switch to. I don't see myself using my HMD for more than 2-3 hours in any given day and I expect these to last several play sessions before swapping.
If anyone is interested in my experience with the two of these I would be happy to post a mini-review.
I bought 2 8Cells chargers here
I dont need the LCD in 1/3 charge increments so it works great and its cheaper.
Before my electric bill came today I was thinking of the following semi-off grid setup:
-----[solar system]-----
solar panel(s)
charge controller
battery(s)
-----[mining rig]-----
Raspberry Pi
Zeusminer Blizzard
-----[electrical stuff]-----
Samlex power supply
PowerSwitch Tail II relay
Raspberry Pi lamp timer circuit
buck converter
-----[The Plan]-----
Plug the Samlex into the PowerSwitch-Tail and PowerSwitch-Tail into wall. Hook the solar system battery up to the Samlex's battery backup terminals. Hook the Blizzard and Raspberry Pi up to the Samlex's 12v output (use buck converter to step the 12v down to 5v for the Pi). Finally, use a cron job on the Raspberry Pi to control the PowerSwitch-Tail. In the morning the Pi would use the 'lamp timer' circuit to open the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the solar system battery. During the night the Pi would close the PowerSwitch-Tail causing the Samlex to draw power from the grid. The Pi would also restart cgminer to mine to different addresses depending on which power source was being used. I would setup the cron job based on the capacity of the solar system. More panels and batteries would mean the system would run longer off of the solar system before switching back over to grid power. I think it would have worked, but not sure. I'm pretty new at this stuff.
edit: formatting
Thanks, yeh that was the plan - to use the battery as a sort of regulator? as it has a consistent output so a phone connected to it would be fine. Sorry for any ignorance - new to electronics, but whats the inverter?
Is something like this what I need? http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Step-down-Transformer-Stabilizer/dp/B00IWOPS8K/
> adding an LCD volt meter directly to the battery so i can see the voltage,
Why? It's gonna read 12V. It would be a lot easier to write "12V" on a sticker and slap it on there, and it would do the same job.
But if you really want to it would be pretty easy to do. You can buy LCD voltmeter panels; they are really common in process engineering. Most will measure up to 600 V or so.
> where a guy used a car charger adapter thing to accomplish this
There's a 12V to 5V converter built into that. They are pretty small, so they fit in there. That's what I meant when I said you can buy one in the grocery store. You can also get the naked chip. In fact I bought this last month and it's worked great. Turns any voltage from 8 to 22 volts into a USB charging port. The same guy also sells this which seems to be tailor made for you.
> I also need to determine the best AWG size that will easily handle any potential loads
AWG refers to the size of the conductor (the copper). The AWG size is dependent on the current you need to handle, not the voltage. A wire will also have a voltage rating, which refers to the size of the insulator around the copper. For reading a voltage (any voltage) you will have next to no current, so the smallest AWG you can find will work, as long as the insulation is sufficient.
24 V is a tiny amount of voltage; I think any wire you find will be able to handle that. Standard wires are generally rated to 400V at least, often 600.
> I think for current I would need to get into series between the battery and the UPS circuits?
Yes, that's right.
Here is one that goes up to 40 volts
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IWOPS8K?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB
Not sure if both power adapters are pushing through the same voltage, but here another redditor bought a replacement power adapter for the lighthouse stations:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4usa5w/extra_base_station_ac_power_adapters/
He used these ones, they worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QIbMxbNFX0YHC
Sorry, but I don't completely know what I'm doing. I sent HTC an email asking about getting a return on the adapter, but I think it's going to be exponentially faster to just order one.
I found this one online. Do you think it would work? The one for the Vive has the same input, and the output is 12V 2.5A LPS
Can't completely tell by looking at the picture whether or not the jack is the right size.
Awesome response, thank you!! Follow up question: Lets say I used this guy http://www.amazon.com/Amamax%C2%AE-Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply/dp/B00KZ2ZQE8
Could I simply strip off the barrel jack (which would leave me a power and a ground wire), then branch two wires off of the power wire to power the arduino and both steppers?
I need to make it work off of one dc converter from my wall outlet. Perhaps a better way to do it would be a barrel jack splitter, if that exists?
They are 2 exo-terra tanks - 24in wide x 24in tall x 18in deep. The fans are these 'Gentle Typhoon' bad boys I saw other people recommending on orchid forums. I've had the oldest running since mid 2016 24-7, no issue. They require a little simple wiring - I bought plugs for them like these.
That sound kind of similar to my setup - 13" MBP, 12.9" iPad Pro, Bose over-ear noise headphones, Beats bluetooth headphones. I also carry a USB power pack for emergencies. I travel with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSTG93S which works to charge all of them, and has overseas adapters. I carry all of that in a bag very similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Case-Logic-Berkeley-15-6-Inch-BPCA-215/dp/B00CCJGIB2 (along with all sorts of emergency stuff - first aid kit, paracord, flashlight, etc). Fits great on flights and I'm able to charge everything overnight.
Is that what you're looking for?
Aside from obvious techie stuff like extra batteries for your stuff, an external powerpack, an unlocked dual-SIM phone (I got a OnePlus X off of Amazon India for ~$150),and your own headphones (I always swipe one of those airline headphones with the annoying two-prong jack and have that on me along with my Skullcandy over-ear foldable headphones with the normal single 9-mm jack...although I may have to pick up an adapter like this and use that with my Skullcandy instead) and apart from clothing items like a sarong, rubber flip-flops, extra underwear, and microfiber towels, three things I never travel without:
I'm leaning towards the first option for the converter. However, it only have one output plug, and not the strip like the other one. Since the converter would presumable convert the 230V outlet in Austria to 110V, does this mean I could use plug regular power strip that I've been using in America to it and power my devices through that strip (provided they don't exceed the maximum power of the converter - 200W). Please let me know if this is safe to use.
Looks like a MB102 power supply to me, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484871195&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Power+Supply+MB102
JBtek Breadboard Power Supply Module 3.3V/5V for Arduino Board Solderless Breadboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UJFVTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fR4vDb9M2V911
You will get it way cheaper on Ali.
I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
Should that work?
Hey Chrwei, the ACDC is the actual cord. The breadboard one is a module that i was connecting the cord to. It looks like the one in this link: https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Breadboard-Supply-Arduino-Solderless/dp/B010UJFVTU
> https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-huzzah-esp8266-breakout/overview
I have the exact board, and I also had issues powering it from a USB port. I'm currently using this power supply and have had 0 issues so far. I highly recommend a supply like this because it easily plugs into a solderless breadboard and can supply both 3.3v and 5v simultaneously. I combined it with this AC adapter. It's 9v, but the voltage regulators on the power supply will burn off the extra voltage as heat.
So now you can omit the voltage wire from the FTDI chip, but you still need a ground wire to go from the FTDI chip to the breadboard's ground.
Also, buy a multimeter if you don't already have one.
Well, so I just went with getting off the shelf LED strips from Amazon; in turquoise. I'm driving them with an internal AC-DC power supply (Lower voltage / price than the linked one) which taps the switched 2 prong AC plug on the back, the posts and solder are SUPER THICC (Being from the 70s) so you'll have to work them a bit to attach something to them.
It was difficult to get the LED strips in above the signal meters and PLL gauge but It's worth it to have those light up nice and even, I still have to add a resistor because overall the lighting now is too bright. I did all this because when I acquired the unit the case had completely disintegrated and I had to replace it with an Acrylic one I made from an old museum display that was being thrown out...
> it hasn't identified any lights
It hasn't identified any of my fixtures either (all on LEDs). It had picked up numerous LED strips powered via plug-in DC adapters and high-amperage DC power supplies. e.g. 12V @ 10A. Alas, it lost them a few months ago.
The title says 10a, but the description shows 10a max 5a constant. That power supply, just looking at the size, can in no way steadily deliver 10a. Then reading on it says 10a is fine. I would not use this!
Look for an old Xbox power brick, they work well. Or find an old computer power supply and run on the 12v yellow.
description
This is good too, I would wire up a small 12v fan to cool it: LEDMO Switching Converter, AC/DC Power Supply Adapter Transformer Driver for LED Strip Lights, AC 100V/240V to DC 12V 10A 120W LED Strip Light Power Supply Switching Mode Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Cqu6CbW2XD8HY
KUNCAN Dc 5v to Dc 12v Converter Step Up Voltage Converter 5ft Am to Dc5.52.1mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ID90K4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_5lKFN3PKiScfq
Here is the battery pack. The pack should put out 5v 3amps per USB unless I've misread, however this product and ones like it tend to convert 5v power from USB to 0.8amp max output at 12v DC, but the fan should require 1.2amp of 12v DC to run on low.
Edit: I located some testing on a similar product in a review that might be helpful:
This seems to do fairly well though I'm unclear what they think their ratings are. I connected this to a 60-watt 5V Anker 6-port USB power strip (which I have verified is better than 5% tolerance 5V at 2.8A on a single port) and began to take measurements.
Max power without total shutting down:
Input 5.08V at 1.9A
Output 10.01V at 818mA
---- Or slightly closer to 12V ----
Input 5.08V at 1.86A
Output 11.33V at 708mA
Max power stable long-term:
Input 5.03V at 1.86A
Output 11.62V at 675mA
Duration - 20 minutes stable, immediately following max-power test
This suggests that this 12V adapter will reasonably provide continuous output at 12V around 670mA with the capability to have higher surge-current but at the cost of dropping more voltage. I was very pleased with how cool it ran - only slightly warm to the touch (113F on the plastic case as measured on IR thermometer). In the event of an overload it does seem to fail gracefully and "shut down" the converter (outputting about 4.5V until reset) on severe overload then "resets" if it is unplugged for a couple minutes.
It already seemed more technical and EEing than I thought I could handle. My computer has additional USB 2.0 ports and I found something that can increase the voltage from 5V to 12V at the cost of Amps and I looked the specs up for the LCD screen (page 6) and it looks as the max draw is under the 1amp max the step up cable can provide. So I will only need to plug one thing into the wall (my laptop cable) instead of two but have the same number of wires. Does that seem like it would work?
This is what I use for my BMPCC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID90K4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I plug this into an Anker battery pack (one that would usually charge a smartphone or tablet) and the converter converts the battery pack's output voltage from 5V to 12V. Basically what this is doing is charging your LP-E6 battery continuously while shooting.
Welp, it is currently working perfectly over just USB using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID90K4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
No issues at all yet for 6 hours playtime.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWSV89D/?coliid=I394XC9VQT7NWZ&amp;colid=168OCS03SC3LT&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This one. The component to the left of the out + terminal (Small rectangular chip) is the failure point. (has SS34 on it)
possibly a diode 40V 3A
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/SS34/SS34FSCT-ND/2094459
I don't see an efficiency rating, but something like this would give you a little leeway in terms of voltage. You set the output via potentiometer and it will maintain that voltage (to a within a certain deviation from your input). Max current 4a so you're set there. Your solar panel is pretty low output too so you may be able to get away with running just the voltage regulator, though I really don't know the implications of that.
Yeah whoops. The one you listed also won't work as it's exclusively a buck converter. That means it can only step down the voltage. I can't quickly find a commercial one that will handle your voltage range. One solution would be to step it up with a boost only converter and then linearly regulate it back down. Here's a boost that could handle it
Great, thanks.
I do believe that the speed of that fan can be reduced by reducing the voltage.
To reduce the voltage: https://us.reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/wiki/design/power#wiki_reducing_voltage_of_a_power_supply
Buy a ready-made buck converter module:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Step-up-Circuit/dp/B06XWSV89D/ref=pd_cp_263_2/131-4260846-4210816
Would one of these work?
https://www.addicore.com/XL6009E1-Boost-Converter-p/ad456.htm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9179WK/ref=psdc_10967761_t4_B011EBSKK0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EBSKK0
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Converter-Voltage-Adjustable-Step-up/dp/B06XWSV89D/
> If you have a 33V LED module, a boost converter with adjustable constant current output would give you good smooth dimming.
So let's say I get an LED module like this, with a boost converter like this and appropriate heatsinks. Would this setup work?
I imagine the boost converter is PWM, but I don't know at what voltages this LED module is off, on, and in between. For example, if it turns off at 30V, and fully on at 31V, then I have a very small range to work with and it will be a nightmare to set the potentiometer on the fly. How can I know what would work?
oh dang I actually even had that in my other thread, but I guess I must've not copied it!
I have a boost converter like this one, should that do?
To get longer battery life, can I hook a bunch of charged LiPo cells up in parallel? I've heard of something like, unbalanced cells messing each other up.
Hello! I'm currently working on a monitor made from an old screen from an old broken laptop. I've elected not to worry myself with a battery for improved portability (I can do that another time if I want to), but I do want some way to give the screen speakers. However, I also don't want to power those speakers with a separate USB cable and I would prefer to power them using the same cable as the screen: a 12V 3A cable.
For the first version of the speakers, I was going to connect the extracted speakers from the laptop to this 5V powered Amplifier board with a Volume Adjuster and then connect it to this Micro USB-B Breakout Board to enable me to power the speakers using a standard Micro USB-B cable and make the speakers removable in case I want to upgrade them at some point.
My theory for powering them is using a female port for 12V and 3A to take 12V and 3A from the cable and then splitting it into 5V USB output for the speakers and 12V for the control board of the monitor. I was intending on either using two of these Boost Converters, or just one of them and the internals of a Car-USB port.
I'm quite new to electronics though and I'm worried that this won't actually work for some reason that I haven't considered. Could somebody point out any issues they can see with this?
A 5v 1amp phone charger with a barrel connector is probably all it was. Since it's for a couch, distance will drop your output. Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0745BZV6T/
To control more servos, servo driver such as the one from Adafruit is the best solution. Certainly not a motor driver. This also simplifies power supply: it already has screw terminals for a separate power supply, so you wouldn't need to solder your own board (not that it is difficult, of course...).
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I'd suggest getting a beefier power supply. Every servo which is plugged in draws some power, even when holding still. I'd get at least 3A - it doesn't cost much, and helps avoid problems.
I have buttons very similar to this. Mine only came with the red and black wires. I had to order these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VYG9GT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and this power supply https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745BZV6T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and hook them up to my buttons. Worked out good though. here is a pic: https://imgur.com/H2s5KFe
I recently purchased an Atomic Pi with the original breakout board which has a Molex connector. I bought a power charger and an adapter which I thought would work with the board but plugging the 2 of them in does not seem to power on the board. Am I missing something here?
Satechi Dual Usb-C
I bring this to charge my laptop and headphones/phone as theyre all usb c
I'm using with my 15" MBP - Satechi 75W Dual Type-C PD, and it's amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Type-C-Travel-Charger-Adapter/dp/B07M97XGNZ/
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Photos : https://imgur.com/a/xs9njGk
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This one is also the option : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJC7J5X
But it is way to big.
I just bought this - USB C Wall Charger 4-Port, with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y8H3NB1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and was also considering this one Satechi 75W Dual Type-C PD Travel Charger Adapter with 2 USB-C PD & 2 USB 3.0 - Compatible with 2018 MacBook Air, 2018 MacBook Pro, 2018 iPad Pro, iPhone Xs Max/XS/XR and More (USA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M97XGNZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aHz3DbPT46BQS. I’ve been using mine all week to charge my MacBook Air, IPhone 11 Pro Max and Apple Watch
I have this Satechi. One USB C port outputs 60W, the other 18W, and it has 2 USB A ports on it. I'm very happy with mine, as it can serve as my sole charger on the road.
OP, you want this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Isolation-Transformer-Outlet/dp/B00006HPFH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458363294&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=isolation+transformer
I had one and stupidly left it when I moved. Why I left it, I have no fucking idea but I should have kept it.
Also, get a proper UPS that does AVR like this one which is relatively cheap: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458363419&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower+ups
You should wire these like this:
Outlet <--> Isolation Transformer <--> UPS/Surge <--> devices.
If the pedals new it should come with one, if not you can pick them up on online/in alot of of shops :)
Eg; https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Waves-9V-Power-Adapter/dp/B00191WVF6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536660783&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=pedal+9v
I recommend something like this as you also need to convert the voltage if your electronics are purchased in and for America:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MSTG93S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1