(Part 2) Best hunting equipment according to redditors
We found 8,703 Reddit comments discussing the best hunting equipment. We ranked the 3,475 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Gerber Bear Grylls Ultimate Knife, Serrated Edge [31-000751]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/410zcwxCPXL.jpg)
I wouldn't recommend a "titanium" knife, firstly because for $10, it's not titanium. It's probably some chinesium knife that won't hold an edge very well. Secondly I don't recall Camillus having a great reputation due to materials and QC.
If you're looking for a good budget knife, I know Ka-Bar and Becker make good ones, and if you can swing an Izula, that would be my choice. Here are some links. Izula Ka-Bar 1 Ka-Bar 2 Ka-Bar 3.
The reason I'm recommending Ka-Bar and ESEE is that they both use 1095 carbon steel which is an excellent choice in toughness and edge retention. I almost forgot Mora, a superb Swedish knife that is renowned for its steel and edge retention, and used worldwide by folks in the workforce and outdoors communities.
The ESEE and Ka-Bars will run you $40-$60, and the mora will run you about $15. You can get Moras and Izulas at Cabelas, but Amazon is also great. Good luck.
A knife specifically for defensive use needs some unique features that a typical EDC knife designed for opening boxes and stuff won't have. Specifically, you need to be able to take it, bare-handed, and slam it down on something hard like a piece of wood as hard as you can.
Most knives can't do that because your hand will slip onto the blade and you'll slice your hand open (unless you're using what I'd call an unnatural grip). So a defensive knife needs a finger choil or a guard. It should also be fixed-blade. The assumption that I think you should make when looking for a defensive knife is that your attacker is already on top of you, and you'll only have one hand and fairly limited dexterity to deploy it, so a folding knife won't work well. Plus, folding knives don't typically have a guard or choil.
As you can imagine, it's tough to get a guard on a knife that's small enough for EDC, especially concealed. (Really, who wants to walk around open-carrying a giant knife?)
Here are three recommendations, in descending order of price:
Spyderco's Street Beat
ShivWorks Clinch Pick
Ka-Bar TDI
None of them are quite as badass or tacticool as a giant 5" serrated tanto, but there's a reason that serious trained self-defense instructors will recommend stuff like these.
Dude my bear grylls knife put a hole in my undies when I had it shoved into my waist band (no sheath b/c I am la ultralight).
BTW, I am another 1 kilo/2.2lb lighter because I didnt notice how sharp that knife is....
Here is the list of gear. It is meant for both myself and my wife, so I doubled up in some places. (Links where I have them)
Total Combined weight 27.4969375 Lbs (assuming my measurements are correct, couldn't get a good read on the tent so I had to use manufacturer info)
Stuff I don't have yet, but which I plan to include as I get them:
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=lee+precision+reloader+press&qid=1573669096&sr=8-3
You could get a base lee press for less than $50, a set of dies for around $35, powder, bullets, primers, and calipers and be less than $200.
like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> Buck 110
I love the Buck 110 as well. The biggest knock against it is it doesn't come with a thumb tab for one handed opening. However, for around $10 you can get this and you're still under $45 for the knife. I have it on my Buck and after 2 years I've had no problems with it.
I also really like the steel they use for it as it's quick to sharpen but still keeps an edge for a reasonable amount of time for most day to day uses. I have an older Buck 105 with the tougher 440C steel and it takes significantly longer to sharpen it.
Edit: Here's the brass Kwik thumb stud. It's the one I have and it goes well with the brass Buck 110.
Check out the One Tigris masks. Fire your face way better. They do have less ventilation, but it's worth it imo.
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01KT0HEVS?th=1&psc=1
the 940-2 is the model that you have, with the s30v stainless, g10 scales, and green spacers. theres also the 940-1 which has s90v stainless, carbon fiber scales, and blue back spacers. as well as the classic straight up 940 which has s30v stainless and aluminum scales.
theres also the 940-1601 , the 940-1701 .. many variants of the 940 design available. same knife, different materials.
i have the same one you do, the 940-2, and i think its awesome. easily my favorite folder
No problem.
Kershaw Scallion (Small, assisted opening, steel is not so great)
Kershaw Skyline (good size, G10, nice blade shape, steel can get to a crazy level of sharpness)
Kershaw OSO Sweet (pretty cool assisted opener, great price there on amazon)
Spyderco Tenacious (same decent steel on the OSO Sweet and Byrd, good G10, good blade shape, Spyderco quality, great value)
Byrd Cara2 (Great value, overseas production brings prices way down on all Byrd knives)
Here is one above your price range
And one below your price range
Honorable Mention: Case knives. Traditional lockbacks. Hard as nails and pretty to boot. True pocket knives. Your grandfather (possibly great grandfather) had one. Good stuff the lot of them. $25-50 will get you a legacy knife that you can carry and use and then pass to your kid.
You don't need to spend $200 to get a quality, durable, reliable knife. I've owned all of these knives at one time or another and loved every one of them. Sure they needed sharpening more often and sometimes something a little more drastic (Sanrenmus are often cheaper to replace than fix) but the value is insane. Plus, lets face facts; we're much more likely to break out our Cadet when we get box duty than our Sebenza.
Knife enthusiasts (brothers) if there's a weighed and measured cheapo that I forgot, let me know.
The UKPK really does hit all your points. I certainly understand your concern about the aesthetics, though -- I disregarded Spyderco for years for that reason. Get one in your pocket for a couple of days and chances are you'll do a complete 180.
Alternatively, you can make any knife a one hand opener with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-KTS01756-Stud-Stainless/dp/B006OCP46S
http://www.amazon.com/SABRE-3--Pepper-Spray-Protection/dp/B0007VM8UC
It sounds like you want it for personal protection. Get this instead. This is coming from someone who loves knives and carries one always and has used them a ton and trained to use them. A lot more reliable, and will generally keep you safer, and a lot less legal liability if you use it. Yes there was a commando on the front page, but that is offensive use he was talking about anyway.
And a sweet edc knife, currently 52 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Blk-Ffg-Plainedge/dp/B0089DFGIG
List Of Items:
The Lee Classic Loader that you chose, says not for semi-autos since it doesn't full length resize. It just sizes the neck. I would get something like this instead:
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-30-06-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162NUS0/
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I
You would need to swap out the dies between operations but this way you could control variables. I'll check back later today with more suggestions.
BTW, my Garand is a CMP Field Grade H&R circa 1953. Stock is a little beat up but metal is great and she's a great shooter.
I believe the regulation is any blade over 2.5" is illegal to carry in Boston. I carry a KABAR TDI shorty which is just under the limit.
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-KB1480-TDI-Enforcement-Knife/dp/B003IXYW3M
Edit: Here is the City of Boston Law:
16-45.1 Carrying of Weapons Prohibited.
No person, except as provided by law, shall carry on his person, or carry under his control in a vehicle, any knife having any type of blade in excess of two and one-half (2½ ) inches, ice picks, dirks or similar weapons that are likely to penetrate through police officer's ballistic vests, or other object or tool so redesigned, fashioned, prepared or treated that the same may be used to inflict bodily harm or injury to another, except:
a. When actually engaged in hunting or fishing or any employment, trade or lawful recreational or culinary activity which customarily involves the carrying or use of any type of knife, or
b. In going directly to and/or returning directly from such activities, or
c. If the knife is being transported directly to or from a place of purchase, sharpening, or repair, and if packaged in such a manner as not to allow easy access to the knife while it is being transported.
No person, except as provided by law, shall carry on his person, or carry under his control in a vehicle, a machete. For purposes of this section, "machete" means a heavy knife at least eighteen (18) inches in length and having a blade at least one and one-half (1.5) inches wide at its broadest measurement. This subsection shall not apply to carrying a machete on one's person or in a vehicle if the machete is carried for the purpose of cutting vegetation or if the machete is being transported for the purpose of cutting vegetation.
The Ontario RAT Model 1 and the Byrd CaraCara 2 are worth looking at.
I'd suggest you save up a little bit more and get something more worthwhile. A Spyderco Tenacious can be had for $34, for example.
If you are dead set on a $20 knife, atomedge's mention of a Byrd Robin or even a Byrd Cara Cara 2 would be a good place to start.
So in my mind, the basics of an EDC are a knife, a flashlight, a pen, and a notebook. Depending on your preference/level of preparedness, though, multitools are great, a gun is convenient if you're in a dangerous place with any regularity, and a first-aid kit can literally be a lifesaver.
So for the basics I'd recommend:
Knife: a Kershaw Leek or Scrambler. The Leek is smaller, more discreet, very light, and razor sharp. The Scrambler is considerably more robust, has a longer blade (3.5" vs. 3"), but weighs more as well. Both can be found in Kershaw's "Blackwash" finish, which I like both for the feel and for the added rust and scratch resistance. Both are also spring-assisted, which is legal in a lot of places, but check your local laws before carrying either in public. If you can't carry them, take a look at the Cold Steel Voyager. It comes in several lengths, is legal in California, and is very durable, if not super comfortable.
Flashlights: Oh my god, the flashlights. LEDs have become so cheap and so bright over the last few years that it's actually pretty hard to go wrong. Nitecore is currently my favorite brand, but Fenix has some options as well. I would urge you not to buy a surefire; they are undeniably great lights, but unless you expect to encounter truly extraordinary circumstances on a regular basis (any chance your light could fall under a tank or a bulldozer? maybe surefire is for you), they tend to be somewhat more pricey per lumen than a number of other companies. For EDC, the Fenix PD35 2014 edition is almost unmatched. Almost a thousand lumens, takes rechargeable batteries, and small enough to drop into the front pocket of your jeans, if you don't want to use the included clip or holster. If you'd like something more keychain sized, the Nitecore SENS series comes in several sizes and battery types, and automatically adjusts the brightness of the beam based on the light's orientation. Aim it at your feet and you get a soft glow; aim it off into the woods and it grows steadily brighter.
Let's be honest, a pen is going to get lost. The best pen is one you like enough to keep track of, but one you won't miss too terribly should some co-worker walk off with it. I like the Zebra F-301. Writes smooth, classic stainless steel good looks, and comes in RGB & Black. Notebooks depend entirely on personal preference too, but the smallest Moleskine is easily pocketable and has 32 lined pages.
In my mind, there is only one name in multitools. Leatherman has a kick-ass reputation, a 25-year warranty, and a plethora of tools to suit any need. For the casual EDC, I'd go with what I believe is the second-lightest full size tool, the Skeletool. 7 functions include a knife that opens while the rest of the tool is closed, the ubiquitous pliers/wirecutters, two double-sided bits and a driver; and it looks so. freakin. cool.
I dunno much about guns except that of all the things I've listed, a pistol should be the one you consider most carefully, especially whether you need it or not. It's a big investment and a bit of a lifestyle adjustment if you decide to go CCW. I've always heard 9mm and up, so use that as a jumping-off point.
First aid kits are useless unless they're both small enough to be carried anywhere and large enough to contain anything you might need. Making your own is a good idea because you have the best knowledge of your environment, but I found a couple on Amazon which seem to have most of the basics without too much fluff or bulk. The first could be stuffed in a jacket pocket, whereas the second would be useful in a car.
I hope I helped. Good luck!
[Kershaw Scrambler] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I04MOIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
[Kershaw Leek] (http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1660BLKW-Folding-BlackWash-SpeedSafe/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=pd_sim_sg_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MHD47WR72RJ9HJVWCZN)
[Cold Steel Voyager, 3 inch] (http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Voyager-Tanto-Plain/dp/B00322LQB0/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417535788&sr=1-5&keywords=cold+steel+voyager)
[Fenix PD35 2014] (http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-PD35-Flashlight-EdisonBright-Batteries/dp/B00DR9GWX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536075&sr=1-1&keywords=fenix+pd+35)
[Nitecore SENS AA version]
(http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Flashlight-Active-Dimming-Lumens/dp/B008J4CHNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536301&sr=1-2&keywords=nitecore+sens)
Zebra F-301
[Moleskine "Cahier" Notebook, pack of 3] (http://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Cahier-Journal-Pocket-Ruled/dp/8883704894/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1417536675&sr=1-1&keywords=moleskine+small)
[Leatherman Skeletool] (http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-830846-Skeletool-Multitool/dp/B000XU9NXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417536920&sr=8-1&keywords=skeletool)
[Small bag or pocket first aid kit] (http://www.amazon.com/AAA-Piece-Commuter-First-Aid/dp/B000SL0R9K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417537142&sr=8-2&keywords=first+aid+kit)
Larger car first aid kit
EDIT: aspace
I've always thought the leek looked aggressive as fuck personally. It looks sexy in BlackWash though.
I got my non-knife guy Dad a traditional slipjoint for christmas, this one.
I'd recommend the Buck 119.
Great USA made bowie style blade with time proven design and classic looks.
I'm sure it will serve you well, whether you choose to use it for hunting or for other tasks.
Plano double scoped rifle case for me. Love it. Affordable, durable and legit. Not. Big fan of the pluck foam so I bought some replacement foam for cheap and cut with turkey shears. Works like a charm!
Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0029KDHQI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Foam here:
http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/charcoal-R.html
I also have the tactical ar case from Plano and I'm equally as pleased with the quality of the product for the cost!
For down the road repairs try Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black touchup, worked good for me on self inflicted scratches
https://www.amazon.ca/BW-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=BW+Casey+Aluminum+Black+Touch-Up+3+oz&psc=1&qid=1570805913&sr=8-1
Skip this karambit stuff and buy a trusty Spyderco Delica 4 or Endura 4.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CH3V5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419378512&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052HQMYY/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1
I have had this Buck Knife for years. It has never let me down...
Plano cases are pretty good for the cost. And this particular one is HUGE with key locks on the latches. It's big enough to warrant the addition of wheels, so it's a bit awkward for someone to sneak or with the entire thing as well.
Spyderco Manix 2
the skyline is a great choice.
Spyderco persistance is another great choice. 29$ below.
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Persistence-C136GP-Plain-Knife/dp/B002IWWYS4
Are you primarily just interested in folders? if fixed blade knives appeal to you Becker bk14 is another wonderful knife for 34$
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK14-Becker-Knife-Eskabar/dp/B004CIQY6K
I finally got my EDC down to a really slim and minimal setup. Nothing that I don't use on a daily basis. Basically a Pocket-dump.
Thanks for looking.
This coupled with goggles of your choice. I have no problems getting a good veiw through the sight with one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Foldable-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective/dp/B01KT0HEVS
Edit: no problem without a riser
My primary loadout is BOOMco based and used in HVZ. It's always been going through an evolution of sorts so this is the latest iteration. I use this loadout during long games even if it slows me down a little.
My accuracy loadout or the one I primarily play in skirmishes or if I have a squad I can really count on. When I don't want to miss my targets I run this loadout. It also much lighter than my main loadout so I can stay on my feet longer and move much faster. This loadout has an engagement range that is about 20-30 feet greater than my main loadout but doesn't have the same RoF. This is the funnest loadout I have.
If I want to run Nerf I make sure I bring the firepower. None of my BOOMco loadouts can bring the heat that this one can. This loadout is also very light as the rig I use is very minimalist and the blasters are compact.
This is the stuff I have on me most of the time. I’m a grad student and as you can see, I’ve been lurking here for quite a while. I’m basically an /r/EDC stereotype at this point.
*Thoughts: I used to carry a FourSevens QT2A (I think?) and it fit in the pocket much better but was obviously much dimmer than the p12. I think i'll go back to a smaller flashlight next winter. I've also carried a Benchmade 707, 275, and several 556 styles. Of all of them I liked the 707 the best but I tend to give away my knives to anyone that takes interest and the 707's price had gone way up when I went to buy another one.
The p938 is, of course, much easier to carry than the SR9c but I can't hit shit beyond 10 feet away and it only holds 6 rounds. Luckily the odds of me needing to hit someone more than 4 feet away are effectively zero. I kind of regret buying the Sig but it'll do for another summer or two. I highly recommend N82 holsters because they are so damn comfortable and secure compared to most others I've tried. The Saddleback ID wallet is amazing if you never need to carry cash, and I've not found a better pen for my pocket than the Fisher space pen. I also like to buy the space pens in bulk so I can give them away to people who take interest.
Sounds like you're looking for a One Tigris mask.
I agree with the BK2, but for something closer to your price range, add 5 bucks to it and get a Buck 119..I love this knife...Perfect for hunting, fishing and general shanking.
Buck 119
That's a Benchmade 940. These retail on amazon for $180ish. Being a prototype certainly adds value, but I'm not sure how much. Likely worth $250-300, but could be worth as much as $500 depending on the buyer and how rare prototypes are.
Under no circumstances would I ever turn them in! Getting a trigger lock is a perfectly fine storage solution. And either a gun safe (expensive) or double (two lock) locking storage case designed for rifles is good also.
Here is a case that may work for all three of the firearms.
Plano Double Scoped Rifle Case w/Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029KDHQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sw6ODbFP8H4T5
i got me a lee equivalent to use for decapping. it's perfectly fine for that purpose, but i'd go nuts if i had to load ammo in this thing.
if i was you, i'd wait till i can save a bit more and get the rockchucker instead - decision is not even close in my view.
Cleaning Supplies/General Maintenance
I'm not going to put links to these, but it is useful to have some cleaning supplies for your press. Rubbing alcohol, paper towels, q-tips, dental picks, etc are nice to have around.
Grease is good to have for your press and some oil is good to put on your dies if you'll be storing them for a long period.
Press
Honestly, I’m a little hesitant to write this part. Presses are the single most costly part of a beginner reloading set up and can change the what else you buy. There is a lot to take into account when buying a press and if you’re a new reloader you can’t fully grasp all of those things yet. You don’t know how you prefer to reload or what might fit you best and choosing the wrong press can make you hate reloading while another press might make you a reloading fiend. Remember, you can generally sell your press for a good chunk of what you paid as long as it is in good shape. Don’t let it rust and you’re fairly safe.
>Single Stage Presses:
Single stage presses are the most basic type of press there is, it holds one die and one shell at a time. This means you’ll end up ‘batch processing’ or doing the same step to say 50 cases at a time before switching dies and running those cases through the next step. For example: Deprime/Resize all 50 cases, switch dies and prime all 50, switch dies and bell all 50, etc. Single stage presses are the slowest way to reload, requiring you to handle the cases multiple times and potentially dial in your die setting every batch. They are also the most stable presses, in that there is very little mechanical variation. This makes them wonderful for precision rifle loading.
Many people recommend you start on a single stage press. Handling your brass many times and getting to see the difference in 50 or 100 cases all at once is a great way to learn what works or not and gives you many chances to spot defects.
Most often I hear people worry about “out growing” their single stage press. Remember, you can sell it or use it as a dedicated depriming station. Many reloaders keep their single stage presses just for rifle loads. Keep in mind that presses that connect on both sides of the case will be stronger than C shaped presses. Compare the Lee and Hornady presses below.
Lee Hand Press $29.09
Lee Press $37.84
Hornady LnL Classic $134.89
>Turret Press:
The turret part of the press is above the brass and holds multiple dies in stations. You place a piece of brass and run it through the first station, then rotate the turret and run it through the next station. You continue this until you have a completed round, then start over with the next piece of brass. This is much faster than a single stage and allows you to do multiple reloading sessions without having to reset all your dies. Because there are more moving parts there is the potential for more variation from round to round. You can still make very accurate ammo on a turret press though, you’re average shooter will never be able to tell the difference between ammo made on a turret or a single stage.
You can still batch process with a turret press and I recommend it for new loaders. Again, getting a feel for reloading and what is/isn’t right is very important.
Turret presses usually have 3-5 stations, keep this in mind when buying as it will change your reloading process.
Lyman T-Mag $186.49
>Progressive Presses:
Progressive presses are cool. They hold 3-5 dies and just as many cases all in the various stages of being reloaded. More importantly, that guy over on arfcom said he can make 600 9mm rounds an hour with his progressive. Even their price tags are impressive. Since you don’t want to outgrow your press you might as well jump in with both feet and get a 5 stage progressive right away. Right?
Well, I’d say that depends. Remember way back up at the top when I asked you those questions? Here is where they really come into play. Progressive presses have a lot of things going on all at once. For instance this is my reloading procedure on my Hornady LnL AP press when loading 9mm. On every raise of the ram I listen for the primer popping out, check a case for a powder charge, watch the case activated powder charge moved into the full upright position, place a bullet, and feel for that bullet seating. When I lower the ram I watch the primer tray to make sure a new primer moves into place facing the right way, feel that it seated properly into the next case, make sure the completed round makes it into the collection bin, and place a new case into the shell plate. All of that happens in a second or two. That is a ton of stuff to watch for without a lot of time to do it. You need to be familiar with what all those things feel/sound like before you can do it quickly. If you can trust yourself to go slowly at first and really really try hard to learn those things while running one case at a time through the press, you can start on a progressive. Even when you feel like you’ve done it enough, I’d hold off a while longer to make sure you really have it down before moving to full on progressive loading. You’ll also need to move your case inspection to before you start the loading process as doing it during progressive loading defeats the speed increase you get from the press.
Remember, reloading is dangerous. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. No one will make fun of you for going with a single stage or turret when starting off. You can always sell and upgrade later and by then you’ll have more knowledge about what you want in a press. If you go spend several hundred dollars on a progressive and then don’t like it’s workflow you’re going to have a lot more invested you’ll need to change to move to a different press. If you are in the market for a progressive you need to determine what features you want. How many stations, auto indexing or manual, how expensive add-ons are, etc. While I don’t claim to be an expert on all presses, everything I’ve heard says you’ll want a Dillon, Hornady, or RCBS progressive. Lee is more of a bargain brand and I’ve never heard good things about their progressive presses. Progressive presses are already finicky creatures to set up, no need to add to that frustration.
Hornady LnL AP $449.99
RCBS Pro2000 569.99
I don’t have a link for a Dillon 650, but they usually run about $560-570 from what I’ve seen. If someone has a link I’ll add it in.
Edit: Dillon 650 $566.95
Review
Reloading is a wonderful hobby that you can spend hours and hours on working up a custom load for the best accuracy or making general plinking ammo. It is a serious hobby however and deserves attention and respect.
At minimum you’ll need the following equipment:
Manuals
Scale
Calipers
Press
Sizing/Decap die
Expanding die(for pistol)
Seating die
Shell plate
Chamfer Tool(needed for rifle)
Yep. But if you build the kit yourself:
This press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553125&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press
Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-30-RGB-Die/dp/B000N8LHQK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553143&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=lee+press+RGB
Scale
https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Digital-Scale-sensitivity/dp/B0012LOQUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553166&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+scale
Calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553204&sr=8-3&keywords=calipers
Priming Tool
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90106-Lee-Precision-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553314&sr=1-7&keywords=priming+tool
... and a few other small things, you should be under $100 dies included.
It is actually more expensive than the Bear Grylls' knife
Hi! And welcome!
I like the Gayle Bradley 2 in M4, and the BM Valet in M390, but they are both very expensive to start out with. The Shuffle II is kind of crappy - I'd definitely pass on that one. I have no experience with
the Bartender Defeder, but even the XL version looks too small, as is the Rodie. The Delica and Leek are great knives, and would likely be solid options (their ergonomics are better than their handle lengths suggest, especially the Delica). The CRKT M16 is ok, but it's not great (in my opinion). I've never handled CRKT's Endorser, but it looks like a solid choice.
My best suggestion is a RAT 1 in D2. It's 40 bucks and you get a very well-made knife in D2 (semi stain resistant and will hold an edge for a good long time). The AUS-8 version is good, too, but if you're cutting boxes, the D2 option will stay sharp way longer.
As for some other options, here are some good ones from CRKT:
Foresight - It's big and comfy in-hand, but it's expensive for the materials used (aluminum and AUS-8)
Shenanigan - lighter and cheaper than the Foresight, but with the same blade material (AUS-8)
Outrage - aluminum handle and 8Cr13MoV steel (similar to AUS-8, id est, reasonably stainless, decent toughness, ok-ish edge retention), ball bearing pivot (nice and smooth!)
Ripple - aluminum handle, 8Cr13MoV blade, ball bearing pivot
With these suggestions, it may seem like I'm a shill for CRKT, but I'm not. I'm just a fan of Ken Onion's designs and ergonomics. I also like:
Spyderco Endura - very good stainless steel in a lightweight package, with plenty of handle real estate
Byrd Cara Cara 2 - Spyderco's value brand (basically a cheap Endura with 8Cr13MoV steel instead of the excellent blade steel VG-10)
Spyderco Resilience - big and comfy (G-10 scales with 8Cr13Mov steel), and my daily carry at work
Spyderco Manix 2 - light and medium sized (they also make an XL version), with BD-1 (kinda similar to AUS-8, kinda)
Cold Steel Recon 1 Spear Point - a big knife with lots of grippy G-10 handle space. The CTS XHP steel is the bee's knees, and the Recon 1 is an excellent value, but it may be too expensive as a starting point.
Also, I'm sure some other folks will chime in, too. The guys & gals of /r/knifeclub are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.
Again, my number 1 suggestion is the RAT 1 in D2. It'll be hard to beat interms of construction, ergonomics, and utility.
Happy hunting!
> You sound like you think this is my first knife I have other knives and I like this one also. I don't think I got ripped off. lol it was only 20 bucks and for 20 it is a pretty sturdy well made knife.
-OP
>I've cut down 2 small trees with this knife and went through a whole winter chopping ice from my gutters and shutters. For $20 you will not find as heavy duty a blade as this.
-Comment on this thread
There are several other 20$ knives that are ridiculously great values. And some of them are folders too, meaning the lock mechanism must be constructed right, or they can hurt the user.
Ka Bar Dozier
Byrd Cara Cara 2
If 20$ can give you a well-constructed folder that won't fail on you, 20$ can get you a nice fixed blade with a good heat treat.
Sure it may not have the same edge retention as a Becker or Izula because of the steel used, but keep in mind fixed blades are typically used with more force than folders are. Batoning, chopping off branches, etc, are more reliant on the user's force than the actual sharpness of the blade.
...And it's still a fixed blade. A piece of steel with handles attached. Unlike folders, there's no mechanical parts to fail. This makes it a very strong design in general. Even though it won't have the same fit and finish as a Becker, it will still have more durability than any folder. But you shouldn't be running these things over with 18-wheelers. It's way more than adequate, if you know to respect the thing.
A full tang fixed blade for 20$ is a steal.
Get a new knife, mate. Bear Grylls series knives are incredibly horrible and sooner or later you'll be using it and it'll break when you need it the most- quite possibly hurting you in the process. As a matter of fact, almost all Gerber knives are garbage. For a similar knife but actually good check out the Kabar Eskabar. Sorry to be rude, but I'm a big believer in trying to prevent people from hurting themselves.
Never use WD-40 on a typewriter. It is a good short-term fix but will cause massive issues down the line once it gets dirt in it and gums up.
This oil is what I use on all my typewriters and I find it works very well.
As for a squealing belt, the basics are the same as for an accessory belt on a car... you can make the squealing go away for a little bit with belt dressing and the like, but the only real fix is to replace the belt. Remove the belt, measure it (width, style, length) - if it has teeth count them, if it doesn't, wrap a cloth tape or string around it and measure it or cut the belt and measure it, and get a replacement off amazon.
I'm not a big fan of the 0350 so I'm gonna say Link.
Then for a wildcard I'm gonna throw in the Spyderco Manix 2 Black G-10 PlainEdge Knife.
They're all solid picks though, I wouldn't stress too much, you'll be happy with any of them! Open a picture of each knife in a new tab, and flip between them, it'll become obvious quickly which one is calling to you most of all.
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B002ECY7XI
One of the best sub $100 knives you will find with great ergos and an excellent steel to boot. Its a strong design that also cuts really well (better slicer geometry than my Izula). If you look around on /r/knife_swap and dont mind waiting you will see them go for anywhere between $70-80 bucks used still in excellent condition. Delicas and Enduras are also great and Sub $100 if you want something that carries more slim than the Manix.
Just use some Aluminum Black Touch-Up to fill in the engraving. I think thats what my engraver used when he filled in the 3 SBR's i've had done by him.
What my SBR looks like with it filled in. Beats having a sticker or something.
The Cheapest Lee press is a worthwhile addition to your setup.
It's the bastard stepchild on my bench, and is relegated to depriming every piece of brass before they get tumbled as not to get dirt and primer residue on my progressive or larger single stage presses. It's often on sale for $20, and it's worth it to save the abuse on your nicer equipment.
What kind of ammo are you looking to reload? Straight-wall ammo, like most pistol calibers, is slightly easier to reload.
You can get into reloading for about $300-$500.
Here is what you will need:
Before you get started, I highly recommend you read the book, "The ABC's of Reloading":
http://www.amazon.com/The-ABCs-Of-Reloading-Definitive/dp/0896896099/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381839707&sr=8-2&keywords=abc%27s+of+reloading
You can check it out at a library if you want to save money. This book covers all kinds of reloading from pistol to rifle to shotgun cartridges.
If you are going to reload any kind of necked cartridge, like most rifle cartridges and some pistol cartridges, these cases stretch in length when firing due to the force being applied to the neck along the axis of the cartridge. As such they have to be trimmed back to proper length prior to reloading. This requires a case trimmer. You will generally not need a case trimmer for straight-walled cartridges.
Reloading basically follows these steps:
There is a lot of debate as to whether single-stage, multi-stage, or progressive presses are best for new people.
A single-stage press has, as you would expect, a single stage. You have to swap out your dies as you move from each operation of reloading. The advantage here is cost and the fact that you can focus exclusively on each step of the process. Disadvantage is speed.
A multi-stage press has, as you would expect, multiple stages. This press holds all of your dies in one die plate, but you must manually change over from one die to the next. You still focus on each step of the process. Speed is a little faster as you do not have to re-set your dies every time you want to switch to a different die in the process.
A progressive press holds all your dies but automatically moves the cartridge from one station to the next with each stroke of the handle. The progressive press' advantage is speed. The disadvantage is that the user must keep an eye on multiple things happening simultaneously, most importantly the powder charging step.
I started off with a Lee Pro 1000, and it is still all I use. It is a bit twitchy in that you have to keep thumping the primer container to make sure the primer feed ramp stays full of primers or else it will start to mis-feed them. Also when the brass feed tubes start to run dry cartridges have a tendency to bounce off of the deck and scoot forward a bit getting caught under the die plate on the up-stroke, jamming the press. You have to push them back out of the way.
You will probably want to clean your brass before reloading it. It is not absolutely essential that you do so, but it requires a lot more force to ram dirty brass through your dies than clean brass. Also dirty brass can scratch up your dies, which then in turn pass those scratches on to your ammo. To clean your brass, you will want a tumbler and seperator.
If you are not using carbide dies you will need case lubricant and you will have to lubricate your brass before you run it through your dies. If you do not do this you will get brass stuck in your dies and you may have to send it to the factory to have it removed.
Note that I used Amazon links for the above but obviously shop around. Also I referenced mostly Lee items but likewise shop around. Lee is usually the cheapest but can be "twitchy" compared to more expensive models.
Do not randomly buy reloading components (powder, bullets, primer) and then try and find a recipe. It's much easier to find out what kind of powder is available to you locally and then find a recipe that uses that powder and buy bullets to match it. If you randomly buy whatever powder and bullets you can find you may have difficulty finding an existing recipe for that combination and will have to find something "close", which as a newbie I don't recommend. It's much easier to work with a known recipe for a specific powder and bullet and primer.
Always start with the lowest recommended charge and work up from there if you find it necessary. If you are building precision ammunition for optimal accuracy you will "work up a load" to find exactly how much powder for any given bullet gives the best accuracy for any given firearm. If you are just building plinking ammunition then use the lowest listed charge that reliably cycles the action of your firearm.
The most critical part of reloading is the powder charging step. If you build ammunition with too much powder in it it can explode and destroy the firearm and injure or even kill you. If you put too little or no powder in it you can make a "squib" where the primer will push the bullet out of the cartridge into the barrel, creating an obstruction, and if you fire the gun again it can explode, again with the risk of destroying the gun and injuring the shooter. It is important to eyeball every cartridge to make sure it is charged properly. And do spot-checks every 10th round or so with your scale to confirm the load.
If you decide you like edc folders you might want to look into a spyderco Cara Cara or Delica both are a similar design to the BX309 but made with more durable materials.
Here are my personal essentials.
Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.
For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.
I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).
A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:
A few notes here
ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.
As an avid Becker fan and owner, I have to say that the BK11 was a low point for the Brand.
I recommend going for a BK14 instead.
Maybe give one of these a go? I plan on doing it!
There is a thing called a Kwik Thumbstud or the Kwik Bar on Amazon you attach it to the spine then you can open it one handed.
From left to right. Victorinox Sentinel, Kershaw Leek Blackwash, Benchmade North Fork, Chris Reeve Small Sebenza 21.
Alternate View
I work in the tech industry, but I'm not comfortable going too much further than that.
EDC (on my person):
Thingies on keychain:
But wait, there's more! Bonus Closeup Images
I'm sure the mesh mask is fine. I haven't seen any that were really better or worse than others unless you're willing to spend a lot more. I would recommned a mesh/cloth mask like One Tigris though.
Lancer goggles are unsafe. Faked safety ratings. Go with something legit like Pyramex I-force, Revision Desert Locusts, ESS NVGs, or Smith Optics OTW.
A lot of people have recently taken a liking to the [NcStar AK Chest Rig.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) It holds up to 6 mags, and the cheapest I've seen it is around 16$ new on eBay.
This is what someone suggested and i believe i'll buy it later.
(sorry seems your UK, maybe you can find similar.)
Depends on a bunch of things
I'll give you a few suggestions that seem to work fairly well:
-----
VISM by NcStar AK Chest Rig
This is a good and quick solution. It's cheap, lightweight, holds 6 magazines, and has a few pockets for other stuff. Drawbacks include the fact that the pouches don't hold their shape and that the included velcro bungees don't hold down larger magazines. The bungees are removable though and you can always fabricate your own.
-----
MOLLE Vest + Tactical Belt + Narrowbase Magazine holders
This is a much, MUCH more expensive solution, but allows for all kinds of configuration options so you can set up your loadout however you want. Need more space? Drop in a Leg Holster. Want to go lighter? Swap out the vest for the battle belt. Need to look cooler? Slap on some velcro patches. Need a dump pouch? Put it on the belt. Need more cargo space? Plenty of MOLLE compatible packs you can attach on there. Narrowbase magazine holders are really great and they hold magazines really well so they won't go flying if you're running around.
-----
One other thought: you could go with NO rigging at all and just use tacrail-compatible magazine holders and Jungle-mags. Anyway, hope this helps and gives you some ideas.
Alot of people have been using this lately it fits 12 round clips and 18 round clips the side pockets can fit anyside arm up to a cycloneshock.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005E98Z4K/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469887123&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
You could get a screw on thumb stud
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-SS-BRK-KTS01756-Stud-Stainless/dp/B006OCP46S
Spyderco Smock. Cold Steel AD15. Buck Marksman. Spyderco Sliverax. For $10 more- Benchmade 940.
I’ve also found that if you add a thumb stud to some knives, you really increase the fidget factor. Kwik Thumb Stud - Stainless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OCP46S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_fRBeMuYv9nzna
All 3 are amazing value and are altogether just over $100. :)
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Blk-Ffg-Plainedge/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1449084374&sr=1-1&keywords=delica4be awesome, easy to carry knife
I'd get him a Blackwashed Leek.
Or even cooler, a Composite Blackwashed Leek.
From left to right:
and underneath it all is a plain cotton handkerchief that is very necessary when you're a sweaty person in a hot climate for most of the year and then for sinus allergies in the fall
definitely would go nicely with your current aesthetic
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-BlackWash-Stainless-Reversible-Pocketclip/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3U0TOFIF1PRP6&dchild=1&keywords=kershaw+leek+blackwash&qid=1573955032&sprefix=kershaw+screw%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1
Aye, it's such a shame I was so young when my grandfather passed. He had a stunning over-under that could've easily been mine, but I hadn't gotten into firearms at that point. Sucks he couldn't see me get older and grow a passion for it, and there aren't many other people in my family that are into that sort of thing. He was only in his 50's. Lucky I still have his Buck Special that I use regularly.
I ordered this knife from amazon, this link: https://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-Knife-940-Plain-Handle/dp/B000QA9G2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511052177&sr=8-1&keywords=benchmade+940
I have a box with the tags and the little bag and everything and it feels just the griptilian I own. But the action isn't as smooth at my griptilian and there are the main concerns listed in the album. I don't understand why it says 'benchmade.com/pat' and it doesn't even seem very centered or aligned.
Is this a fake or real?
everyone seems to rave about the griptillian and the 940 from benchmade. also includes their lifesharp service, which is pretty awesome
i have a decent number of knives, but the one i use the most by far is the delica 4 wave-- best $60 i ever spent.
in the end i'd say you could definitely spend a lot less than $200 for a great knife, just depends on your taste
Here would be a few of my suggestions. Some are bit more $ but worth it.
ZT 450
Benchmade 940
Benchmade Knife 551-1 Griptilian
Boker Plus Kwaiken Flipper
Hoppe's No. 9 oil.
I’ve been using this and like it quite well:
Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6q.EDbWEASAGG
My kit
Real Avid Handgun Smart Mat-19-inch by 16-inch Handgun Cleaning Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PB8AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WuTl343G4CERJ
Hoppe's 24002 BoreSnake Pistol and Revolver Bore Cleaner, 9mm, .357, .380, .38 Caliber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RKHJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Bre6MnkuW1npv
Birchwood Casey Gun Cleaning Patch for 2 1/4" Square 9 mm/.38/.45 Caliber (Pack of 500) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD0UEGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8wvVvfu8z14rN
Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner Spray Bottle, 8 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013RA3A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_o5oHvt8b7y27O
Hoppe's No. 9 Gun Grease, 1-3/4 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PW5ZGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HI2YuNyqeJeOt
Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_i8emEskpQydLM
SE 7624BC-5 Gun Cleaning Set with 3 Brushes & 2 Double-Ended Picks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HD0R86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_e675klKxRfh9s
Ballistol Multi-Purpose Oil, Aerosol spray, 6 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_QH46NYitYG8Xb
Hoppe's No. 9, 9-Piece Pistol Cleaning Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8S0D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e30bzbRXP7JAR
(Tapered and Regular Tip) Type-III 100pc Gun Cleaning 6 Inch American Made Cotton Swabs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CPU4JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OcSPLNbBbOo6M
I also picked up some cans of compressed air at Walmart
You can also buy springs separately and swap them in! That prevents you from buying a whole other set of switches only for components. While you have them open putting 2 drops of knife oil on the springs will prevent them from becoming "pingy" in the future.
Link to springs: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=739
Link to oil:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_WxzQDbZFTY7N2
Here's the manual for a '42 Royal Arrow (very similar) http://www.machinesoflovinggrace.com/manuals/RoyalArrowManual.pdf
Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Precision-Lubricating-14-9ml-Bottle/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381183565&sr=8-1&keywords=needle+oiler
should help with oiling. Enjoy!
I use Hoppe's #9 Lubricating Oil. I really enjoy it for it's applicator which is really thin and precise and does not spill even if you tip it over. One downside is that it's easy to break off.
I would stay away from WD40. It works just fine, but it attracts dirt easily. Also, stay away from olive oil LOL.
I agree with everything you said with one caveat. (Edit: This is just talking about the non budget series, I reread your comment, but keeping mine because the jist of it still stands. Agree on suggesting the budget series.)
Pelican cases are made to go to war, deal with baggage handlers, get shipped around the world with expensive and sensitive equipment inside and insure they come out the other side just fine.
They’re overkill for many people.
I have 4 pelican cases (yes, I have a problem... I need more pelican cases...) and I love them. But they are overkill for what I use them for.
A buddy was debating between the 1750 (I have one and brought it over for him to check out) and a Plano (this one, I think. Plano Double Scoped Rifle Case w/Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029KDHQI/).
He ended up going with the Plano for half the money and spent the rest on Ammo. Not a bad choice by any means. For range trips the Plano is perfect. And I’m sure it’d handle just fine if/when he decides to fly with it.
UPS and Fedex suck equally as much, doesn't really matter which one you use. I would recommend printing out the two pages /u/qweltor and I linked and bringing those with you to your local UPS or Fedex service center (not a UPS Store or Fedex Kinkos, I mean actual UPS or Fedex service/distribution center.)
Be aware that the handgun will have to be shipped via an overnight or 2-day air service, which will be expensive. You can ship the shotgun to yourself via USPS which would be considerably cheaper. Also, be sure to box up the firearms before you take them into any USPS/UPS/Fedex location.
Assuming you're flying home, another option may be to purchase a relatively affordable hard case such as this, a couple of NON-TSA padlocks, and putting both guns in the case to fly with as checked baggage. The cost of the case and checked bag fee will be comparable to shipping overnight, but once done you'll still have the case for future use.
https://www.reddit.com/r/guns/comments/5jshij/tsa_approved_locks/dbilkll/
I'm adding to what Pedro said above, because it's spot on.
For a beginner, definitely start with a curved tip knife. You don't want to go overboard while skinning and drop or puncture the guts at the wrong time, and you definitely don't want to accidentally cut a tendon in the legs that the deer is hanging on. You can get a nice "deer kick" in the face, due to the laws of gravity.
I've cleaned hundreds of whitetail in my life, and taught dozens of new hunters. My father taught many times more than me. Accidentally cutting the tendon when skinning around the legs is the biggest rookie mistake I see. The last guy that I taught (this last season) did exactly that, even after I told him not to no less than 3 times beforehand.
I'd recommend a knife something like this one for a cheap start. They probably have one similar, if not identical in every Walmart in your area
As for cutting the feet off just before separating the shoulders, I have a few tricks. One is to use a cordless reciprocating saw. You can cut the feet off in a couple of seconds, and you can also split the pelvis slightly quicker than you can sometimes do it with the knife. Use a wood blade with large teeth, rather than a metal blade with small teeth. It always seemed backwards to me, due to the hardness of bone, but I promise you it will work better. The saw is also invaluable for cutting skull or spine depending on how you want to harvest antlers.
Another way to cut off the feet is to use a large pair of bolt cutters, or a large pair of landscape "lopping" shears. They will both cut right on through the bone.
I have also had success with these. Once people get over the drama or hilarity, they generally see that it works well. This allows you to pull the last bit colon\rectum out of the deer before you start cleaning, allowing you to keep your meat clean. If you wait until you are "into" the animal, everything is so slick that it's hard to pull out cleanly by hand sometimes. This keeps the turds off your meat.
A good gut bucket is a must. As you figure things out, you will learn to take the animal apart in a way that allows you to drop everything in the bucket as you go. I have used everything from large storage totes, to galvanized trash cans. I think I like the galvanized steel trash cans the best, because they are taller, but they do tip over easier if you haul off the guts in the back of a truck. I use the firm edge of the trashcan like a saw horse when I am cutting the front feet off.
Obviously, your work area also makes a big difference. We run a small family hunting operation where we might clean 8 or 10 deer in a row on a decent day. We have a purpose built shed for cleaning. You don't have to have a dedicated building, but there's a few key things that help. These are a cheap hand-cranked boat winch for raising the gambrel. This makes it easy to adjust the height of the gambrel to fit the deer and your comfort zone. Also, it seems obvious, but one of the worst things is trying to skin one in shitty light. Most of the time it doesn't matter, but if you are skinning for a mount, you'd better be able to see. Running water is definitely a key element. Nothing sucks worse than getting a fatty deer that fouls all of your knives before you are done skinning. Being able to wash right there is a major luxury.
Otherwise, there are several videos on youtube that I have been pointing people to, to give them a refresher when I am not around to help. Just search a bit. They are not hard to find.
When you get good, you can clean one casually in about 10 minutes. This doesn't include boning out the quarters.
Sorry for the wall of text, but this is something that I am passionate about, having spent so much of my life doing it.
A Butt out 2.
https://www.amazon.ca/Hunters-Specialties-Butt-Game-Dressing/dp/B002ECKYSA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542334058&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Buttout+2
Shit, they should just rip the dang thing out.
That reminds me of this: http://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Specialties-Butt-Game-Dressing/dp/B002ECKYSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418313069&sr=8-1&keywords=butt+out
This happened to my S0. I used some Aluminum black on it. Couldn’t see it afterwards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3I5UBb2MY07RN
I am gonna elaborate a bit on the lee press thing.
If I count my presses by brand I have 3 by Lee, 1 by RCBS and 1 Dillon.
If I could only have one press, it would be the RCBS.
But, I load the fewest rounds on that press, and use it the least, so why would the RCBS be the one press I would keep.
The answer is simple. It does pretty much anything I need done, just slower than any of the others. And it does a few things that would reduce the others to scrap.
If you are looking for a budget option to learn reloading, and only reloading, then get the Lee Reloader Press. This is a "C" style press and is my most used press. In fact, I have two of them.
Generally can be purchased for under $40. In fact, amazon has a prime eligible returned press right now for $29.91. Add a Lee Ram Prime and a set of Lee dies with a dipper and you could be reloading basic pistol or rifle for about $71 in equipment. This is probably your best route as you can offset the cost of the equipment in short time.
Go this route and by the time you have recouped the cost of the press, you will know enough to make a good informed decision on your next press. Or you may be happy.
But, one time I had a wild hair and wondered if I could swage a spent 40 S&W case down to serve as a jacket blank for a 200 grain 10mm bullet. You can, but not on a Lee Reloader C press. I used my RCBS press, and had to make some of my own tooling.
Links:
Press: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002SF4X5I
Ram Prime: http://a.co/baJkSSY
Dies: http://a.co/6znVpPR
Full Disclosure: I have never used the Ram Prime. I started with an RCBS kit that included their hand priming tool. I included the ram prime as it is the cheapest option.
Here is the Amazon link with info
For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).
For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.
Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.
i have a BK2. It is insanely stout and thick. Quite heavy. Can be used as a pry bar. Butt could be used for smashing rocks. It will probably outlast me. I decided to mount it in my vehicle because it is too heavy to carry comfortably for long periods of time. But will be very handy for all sorts of hard tasks when I need it. It can chop wood and do pretty much anything you want it to. But it is more of a "jack of all trades, master of none." there are other knives that specialize in certain tasks and will perform better. For a dedicated wood chopper, it is a little bit too short. It is heavy enough but the weight is balanced towards the center of the full tang, not where it hits wood. It can do it. But a longer Becker would be a better chopper. I don't recall the model numbers but Becker has a lot of options. Also I cant speak to rust issues. Its very dry here.
​
I also have a SCHF9 which is a bit longer, with better shape and weight distribution for chopping. It is a cheap knife, yet very solid. Thickness is very close to the BK2. If it rusts or gets lost I would just buy a new one. The sheath is not great but there are options out there.
https://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Stainless-Survival-Everyday/dp/B0033H7VI6
Schrade SCHF9:
Bang for the buck if I ever saw it.
Schrade SCHF9. 1/4 inch thick slab of 1095 and cheap enough to never hesitate to abuse it. The slight re-curve in the blade is a bit unfortunate, but not a deal-breaker.
Hard to beat a spyderco delica for a lightweight edc knife. I just got a manker e02h and it’s an outstanding little edc light coupled with eneloop aaa’s.
I carry this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bud-K-KB1480-Enforcement-Knife/dp/B003IXYW3M
It's designed specifically as a handgun retention blade to be generally worn on the opposite side of your gun so it can be accessed by your weak hand. Strong hand would be used to help retain the firearm from someone attempting to steal it from you, weak hand would be able to quickly grab the knife and "do work" to get the guy off your gun.
Just keep a gun or a knife on you at all times. It could save your life or others.
Throw this https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Enforcement-Knife-Fixed-Blade/dp/B003IXYW3M
on your belt and start swinging if you need to defend yourself. Aim for the head/neck and get to safety.
Consider the purpose of a defensive blade. A blade is deadly force. That means that if you're justified in using a knife, you're justified in using a gun. A gun is a much better defensive tool than a knife under almost every circumstance, including at knife distances. The only time a knife has the advantage over a gun is in the clinch, i.e. when you are not just close but actually entangled with your adversary. Under those extreme conditions a small fixed blade is best, as it's easier to access and deploy than a folder. Two of the best designs for this purpose are the ShivWorks Clinch Pick with a good sheath, and the KA-BAR TDI, also with a good sheath.
You, however, are in a special situation. One, you're in a state that flagrantly violates the U.S. Constitution. And two, you won't do the right thing and bear arms in defiance of unconstitutional state laws. You could spend money on a compromise knife that is meant as a poor substitute for a gun, or you could just get one of the good knives I recommended above while waiting on your state-issued piece of plastic. Given your same constraints, I would choose the latter.
Good luck behind enemy lines.
We discourage discussion of self-defense here (see the sidebar) but we can always suggest a good quality knife.
The legal aspect is twofold - many states restrict push-daggers, and many restrict double-edged blades, which is a common push-dagger feature.
You might consider the kabar TDI, this is the smaller of the two sizes offered:
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Enforcement-Knife-Fixed-Blade/dp/B003IXYW3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497047861&sr=8-1&keywords=kabar+tdi
EDC LIST
(A helpful redditor pointed out that r/EDC doesn't endorse using knives in defense. I wanted to be clear the ka-bar is used for utilitarian purposes and never on anything animate.)
[From top to bottom][I know 'techno-utilitarian' makes me sound 'techno'-cally like a tool.]
The vitamins are technically EDC, too, but I didn't mean for them to sneak into the shot. ANIMAL PAK. No big deal.
E: I'm upgrading the Ka-Bar 'McStabby' with a slightly safer Ka-Bar TDI LE fixed blade, but I'd take other recs. Thanks guys!
Yeah, seriously. Most everything on that list is cheaper or the same price if you already have Prime. Is OP having a clearance sale at their LGS or something? Can OP guarantee 2-day shipping?
EDIT: in case OP runs out
AR15
AK47
Bigger Remington 870
1911 #1
1911 #2
M92
Hi-Power
Glock
USP
P220
P226
P229
M&P
XD
XDm
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c5hDCb1J4S5WF
Big fan of these for gaming mousepads. Big enough to put your keyboard on to help anchor it.
http://smile.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG/
I actually recommend getting a gun cleaning mat instead of these giant mousepads. They look badass, are cheaper, and are made of exactly the same material. Essentially, same product without the gaming markup.
Example: http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425238039&sr=8-1&keywords=ak47+tekmat
People seem to like using these
Ask and you shall receive
It looks somewhat like a spyderco knockoff. Look up spyderco knives or Byrd knives which is spyderco's cheaper brand.
ETA
Here's a similar one
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B0049AYJP4
Flashlight: Nitecore TIP
Knife: Byrd Cara Cara
Pen: Pilot Kakuno
Wallet: Saddleback Leather Sleeve Wallet
Caribiner: Metolius Mini
Total: 98.33
More realistically, I would DIY the wallet with a $10 piece of tooling leather, and get a better knife like a Spyderco Efficient. This would put me a couple dollars over, so swap the pen for a Zebra F701. Total:$100.42
Hard mode:
Flashlight: Nitecore Tube
Knife: Opinel #6
Pen: Pilot Kakuno (same as linked above)
Wallet: DIY Sleeve (as discussed above)
Caribiner: Metolius (same as linked above)
Total: $49.14
Byrd Meadowlark 2 - Chinese version of the Spyderco Delica.
Byrd Cara Cara 2 - My EDC blade, the Chinese version of the Spyderco Endura.
Don't be fooled by the Made in China stamp. These are quality knives, made and designed by Spyderco. The steel is a bit better than AUS-8 I'd say, not as good as VG10. Personally, I love it. It's easy to sharpen, even with a cheap handheld gadget from a department store, but still holds an edge pretty well.
I had a Spyderco Endura in ZDP189 before then and a Spyderco Jess Horn before that. Lost the Jess Horn, and almost lost the Endura, then decided I didn't want to lose another expensive knife. The Endura is in a box somewhere while the Byrd is on my hip. My problem with the ZDP steel was that it was too tough to sharpen, even with my diamond sharpeners, although it did hold an edge for quite a while.
Not a great knife.
I'd recommend one of the following:
Morakniv $16
Buck 119 $48
The knife you've chosen isn't going to hold a good edge as long and will be harder to sharpen well. I'm not one to spend stupid amounts of money on high end knives, but a decent knife makes a big difference.
Get a buck 119. They're on sale right now on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Buck-0119BKS-B-Special-Fixed-Blade/dp/B000EHWWJQ
My dad has one of those Buck 119s and I really love it. They are $75 on Amazon and seem to be what OP is looking for, if that price isn't too high.
Edit: I found them for $55
So some will be a little more then 40 but the performance and customer service is worth it.
Cold Steel Extra Large Voyager Clip Pt. Plain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPW4LJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x3eXDbMZTEMNN
Buck Knives 119 Special Fixed Blade Knife with Leather Sheath - Black Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EHWWJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H4eXDbKPRCS8H
Cold Steel Peace Maker II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BD57RZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z5eXDbFY372C4
Ontario Knife Company 8667 Rat-5, Plain Edge with Black Nylon Sheath https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NNXMSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_06eXDbRS3PEXY
Buck Knives 620 Reaper Black Fixed Blade Survival Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RQ7WQ2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e.eXDbT0Y0DW9
It's not wood-handled, but I'm sure you can order one that way for a little extra money. You simply can't go wrong with the Buck 119 for a decent fixed blade. The price is right, the warranty great. You can pay a lot more for a knife, but this one more than does the job.
Olight M2R But honestly any flashlight (preferably using an 18650 battery) will be extremely useful and I use mine many times throughout the day/night.
Keybars are also pretty useful, just bought my first one the other day and it really beats using a keychain.
Any good knife will also be useful. I personally carry a Benchmade 940 and I love it.
Benchmade 940 Osborne rift design. I will never buy another knife for my EDC rotation ever again.
Here's an Amazon link for it
Benchmade 940 Osborne Design Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QA9G2W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Qdxoub0XGJDVD
4.Reading, drawing, and trying to get into hiking.
I’m a novice compared to a lot of folks on here. But, I’ve been diving in deep the past few months. I’m happy to share what I’ve learned. You say I know stuff - look at my flair - I get confused sometimes haha.
Nano oil:
So, if you’re looking for nano oil, know it’s most expensive on amazon. It’s cheapest on eBay and other places. It generally shouldn’t be that expensive.
Many say the best oil is KPL. Knife pivot lube. Available on amazon for $14. It’s the best for washer based knives. Whereas, nano oil is sometimes best for bearing based knives.
My recommendation for strops will follow this post. I got my strop from someone here on reddit and it’s great. Apply compound and when it gets grey with metal clean the strop with a pink eraser.
Lastly, when it comes to sharpening:
I use a sharpmaker to maintain my knives. Unless I buy a used knife that’s super dull, this is all I ever need. A knife shouldn’t get dull enough to be reprofiled, I think.
But, if I do need to reprofile, I use a lanksy system. I’ve got the standard kit but added a course and extra course diamond to help reprofile hard steels like super steels. The luxury solution (in my opinion) is a KME system. It’s too much to go into to discuss sharpening further than a device.
I’ll probably get some KPL when it runs out, but this is the oil I use right now:
Hoppe's No. 9 Lubricating Oil, 14.9 ml Precision Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4-kDbW2GR41P
kinds off topic but if you look at the MSDS of Hoppes lubricating oil it appears to be just white mineral oil in a bottle that goes for $410 per liter.
You could get the same thing for slightly less money if you don't need the fancy bottle. I think if you buy this you'll be paying about 5 bucks a liter instead $410.
I might be missing something though, Hoppes might have additives that I didn't see.
this is purrty gud
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E2217I6
That's the one I use. It's a tight fit with the f̶o̶a̶m̶ bottom foam removed and the case bulges a bit, but the good thing is that the board doesn't roll around inside the case.
https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Double-Scoped-Rifle-Wheels/dp/B0029KDHQI
That's the one I recommend if you don't want to carry a 15 pound case from baggage claim to ground transportation. (It's a slight pain in the ass, but not enough for me to shell out almost double price for wheels.)
I mean, easier said than done. It was a spear with a friggen go pro on it. But generally, a heart, lung, spine shot is ideal. If you rupture the lower intestines you can taint the meat. One of the reasons tools like the butt out exist to aid in field dressing after a clean kill. Stick up the butt, twist and pull the intestine out to not get shit all in the meat.
You may find this useful.
Did you use the buttout?
Kinda reminds me of the Butt Out (a terrifying implement used to field dress a deer)
I have a Spyderco Manix 2 with a pretty fat knife.
I paid $90 on Amazon for it and It's a fun knife to have. http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Plain-Knife-Black/dp/B002ECY7XI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394204179&sr=8-1&keywords=Spyderco+Manix+2
There's also the blue lightweight version, but I passed on it because it doesn't have an adjustable pivot screw.
For a few dollars more you can get a Manix 2 http://i.imgur.com/tuUr7XJ.jpg?1 Here's a link to Amazon
$98.87 https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B002ECY7XI
Don't worry too much about the finish, you're going to use the rifle and the finish will take marks if you're doing it right.
If you really scratch it good (down to bare aluminum) get a bottle of [Aluminum Black](BW Casey Aluminum Black Touch-Up 3 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jZMEybEAYVV1A) and all will be well.
that's your castle nut. there are products like aluminum black if it bugs you.
Personally - after my first few scratches, I stopped caring. You can tell my rifle gets used and I think it looks good with a little character.
Agree, from a cost standpoint, you'd spend more on cerakote/anodizing a raw aluminum lower after machining.
For those that get an anodized 80% lower, this is an option for the exposed trigger pocket and holes after machining.
https://www.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG
This? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZRj2CbFG1MRJZ
https://www.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG Turns aluminum black, will cover that up nicely without adding any thickness to the finish.
This stuff is pretty good. Worked for small scratches on my slide.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O4FODb0911EBZ
Or give it a good ol cerakote
It's already anodized? Casey Birchwood Aluminum Black works great for small scuffs and scratches left by the jig or whatever. It won't, however, be able to blacken massive blank spots like the inside of the FCG area. I was surprised to learn that when I swabbed the inside of one and it came out looking horrendous. Absolutely awful looking.
Don't know why, but it worked really really well for the small exterior scratches that my jig plates left on it.
Past that, rattle can works fine in my experience. I specifically recommend Krylon NOW series Wrought Iron Flat Black (21211). Out of the handful of paints I've used, that dries well and color matches almost identically to all my upper receivers. But on raw aluminum, it will chip right off. Not entirely, but I've got some bare spots on the edges of my magwell and around my trigger/firing pin.
Edit:
Amazon link to the birchwood casey https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JCW2CG/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1483846584&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=birchwood+casey&dpPl=1&dpID=419OnQKdUyL&ref=plSrch
Again, that will only work on already anodized parts. You can't use it to anodize a blank part.
Their perma-blue works surprisingly well on steel, which I used to restore my grandpa's Astra 400 (because I didn't have the time or resources to set up nitre-bluing as it was a Christmas gift.
As a new reloader myself, I'm going to make the suggestion that you drop $35 on a single-stage press and learn on that. There's enough to concentrate on when you're only doing one thing at a time, let alone five different things.
You can use the same dies as the other press, and I assume your dad has a scale, calipers, and all the other stuff you would need. (Heck, he may even have a single-stage already. Check around.)
I feel your budget pain! I was lucky enough to get into reloading during a rare time in which I could go further in debt up to my eyeballs, but even I need to cut corners as much as I can while I concentrate on preparing for post-election shortages. At your budget level I'm going to disagree with the other commentor who recommends dial calipers; $10 digital calipers from Harbor Freight or eBay are decent and will serve you well for a few years.
Your plan fails at primer installation. Neither the hand press nor the Ultimate Rifle Die Set (good choice, IMHO) is provisioned for priming. You'd need to get a Ram Prime die or some sort of separate primer such as a hand primer (avoid the Lee hand primer because it uses proprietary shell holders).
I recently added the hand press to my collection. The hand press is nowhere near as large or heavy as its photos make it look. It's a light-duty, dinky little thing. I'm glad I have it but I wouldn't want to use it as my main press, just as an accessory. It's ok for decapping when primers aren't in too tightly, but some cases have been more difficult and I have to lay it down and repeatedly slam it (putting my fingers at risk, there's not a lot of finger clearance). I was thinking of finding appropriate pipes to use as cheaters.
IMO its best uses are light-duty decapping (using a universal decapping die or a larger caliber's sizer/decapper; NOT the sizer/decapper from your caliber's die set) and Ram Prime usage while sitting on the couch, and mobile bullet seating at the range when you have already sized/prepped the cases at home. I would not want to use it to size .308win cases, that's for sure! Some can be tough even with my Rockchucker Supreme.
For almost the same price you can get the 90045 Lee Reloader (not to be confused with the Lee Loader), a disposably-priced but (reportedly) well-built simple single stage C-press. Bolt it to a block of wood, then clamp that to the kitchen table or your desk (or the bench at the range) when you want to use it. (You'll still need either a Ram Prime or a hand prime tool.)
(Edit: I missed where you commented on your furniture clamping worry. You can clamp it without leaving a mark. Harbor Freight's cheap bar clamps have nice rubbery plastic covers, and you could place another block of wood, even plywood, on the underside to spread it out even more, and you could even sandwich in some rubber or plastic.)
Yes, always choose carbide dies if they are available. They aren't that much more from Lee and they save time/effort, which you'll appreciate especially since it sounds like you'll be tediously hand-cleaning all your cases. Does Lee offer carbide .223 dies (or does anyone else offer them at a similar price)?
Immediately get at least a cheap $15 digital jeweller's scale that measures in grains. The dipper is convenient but you shouldn't do without a scale of some sort.
Once you get into the swing of it, 1000 cases won't seem like as big of a time investment as you thought...though a tumbler would help. Do you have a treadmill? If so, you can use a $1 barrel from Dollar Tree, $4 Hartz corn cob bird litter (though finer media might be more pleasant with .223), and a glob of car polish or whatever similar stuff is handy. Place barrel on treadmill, block the end with something heavy (or turn treadmill around so open end is against a wall) so the barrel can't roll off, and run treadmill at 1.5mph for 90 minutes...cases come out sparkling clean.
Also, I'm not sure if you'll save much/any on the .223. As someone else mentioned, steel-cased (with allowed bullets) can be pretty cheap -- cheap enough to pay for the extra barrel wear twice over.
Of all the reloading components, bullets are most expensive (you already own the brass) and disappear fast. If you get into casting and can source scrap lead then you can definitely save money on .223, but casting is even more equipment investment (financially, and your limited space, plus you ought to do it outdoors).
My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.
Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.
Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I know Gerber isn't the best... BUT, I have been throwing this thing around for a while, it's a beater and it is sturdy enough for the tasks you plan on doing:
http://www.amazon.com/Grylls-Ultimate-Knife-Fixed-Blade/dp/B009XMYKOI/ref=sr_1_23?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1398715605&sr=1-23&keywords=gerber+knives
The only problem with that is that it is at your price limit, and it probably isn't the best you can get for the money (you're paying for that sweet Bear Grylls sponsorship ;) )
Because of that, I also would recommend this:
http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1398715810&sr=1-2&keywords=Cold+Steel
The only thing with this knife is that it is made of a high carbon steel, which means you'll need to care for it just a teeeeeny bit. You will need to occasionally treat the blade with a light oil or a corrosion inhibitor to keep it from rusting. This really isn't a big deal, it would only take ~5 minutes after every time you use it before you put it into storage.
I've heard good things about the Schrade Schf-9. Comes with a nylon sheath, and i've seen a review where a guy managed to fit a basic survival kit in the sheath's pouch
I'm assuming you're not talking about the little red knife. The fixed blade is a Schrade SCHF10, not too bad for the price.
There's also the SCHF9 which is a little bigger, they are both worth looking into.
http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF10-Drop-Point-Fixed-Blade/dp/B00BM94JJQ
http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382900003&sr=8-2&keywords=schrade+schf10
and here's a video of the two in case you're interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPFyyJTNWUE
You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:
Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).
Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.
Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.
Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.
I would also recommend a Schrade SCHF9 or another in the Schrade series. They make some great quality knives for great prices. I said I would prefer the SCHF9 because I own it and I like it a lot, but I would also recommend looking at some other Schrades. The SCHF9 is not stainless steel so there's a little more upkeep than one that isn't, but mostly just keeping it dry and clean. Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033H7VI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can't go wrong with a Spyderco Delica. It's a trusted and well loved EDC knife. Check out some of the reviews on it.
If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.
If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.
The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.
Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:
S30v Kershaw Blur
Benchmade Mini Presidio
[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)
Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)
Spyderco Dragonfly
Spyderco Delica
Spyderco Endura
Ontario RAT 1
Ontario RAT 2
Spyderco Delica4 Lightweight FRN Flat Ground PlainEdge Knife (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3V5E/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dQp.AbN109R13
Gerber is like one notch above if not the same really. You don't have to spend a fortune, although you definitely can if you can afford it and get something really awesome, to get a solid EDC knife. You can get a nice Spyderco, Cold Steel, SOG, or CRKT in the lower price ranges that would serve you well.
You could even just get a nice fixed blade like the ESEE Izula-II. Nutnfancy has a playlist of edc folders for under $40 as well that you might want to check out. Uf you've never watched one of his reviews before, he's extremely thorough and should mention the clip.
I'm also a big proponent of carrying a small fixed blade on your off side to aid in weapon retention in case of a gun grab. I carry a Ka-Bar TDI LE which a sweet knife (strong AUS-8a steel) for a great price. The only thing lacking is the sheath that you can always choose to replace later with the PHLster TDI sheath. If you want something smaller and cheaper they also have the Ka-Bar TDI LE Last Ditch knife.
This is what my current EDC consist of...
1 5.11 Tactical Operator belt
2 Lumia 920 Unlocked
3 Ipod 2nd Gen 8GB
4 Cassani leather Wallet.
5 Nike Skylon Ace Swift Sunglasses. With hard case
6 Hand made paracord bracelet with D sackle.
7 Streamlight 88030 Protac Tactical Flashlight 1L with White LED 1 CR123A with velcro holster, not original holster.
8 House keys with Paracord 'chain'
9 Blistex medicated lip balm
10 Ka Bar TDI Law enforcement knife, with belt clip sheath, with extra paracord.
11 Small swiss army knife with red LED. And an extra CR123A battery in a Waterproof Airtight Pill Fob Holder Keychain, the battery is wrapped in plastic wrap.
12 Trendy Military Fitted Cap
13 Sony MDREX38iP/WHI EX Earbud with iPod Remote Control (White)
Get a TekMat. They are gun cleaning pats, but they work perfectly as mouse pads. They have a large and small size - rifle vs pistol. e.g. link here
I've had one for 6mo now and loving it more than any mouse pad I've ever had. Cheaper too.
http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG
It's a gun cleaning mat, but it has the exact same texture and feel of a high quality mouse pad.
The one he has is a TekMat, the one on Amazon is not. Get a TekMat, if you can, they're really nice. https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-Cleaning-Waterproof-Instructions-Armorers/dp/B003JOLCAG
TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat with AK-47 Imprint, Black, , https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-iepzbJK9W0DT
Do you carry tek mats? They double as really cool keyboard/mousepad/playmats
Example: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JOLCAG?pc_redir=1404747547&robot_redir=1
Thanks! It's a TekMat. Great for disassembling guns, as a giant keyboard/mouse pad and as I've recently discovered - stacking silver on.
This
This knife has helped me in many different wilderness situations, and the striker is awesome to start fires with.
I have at least three "knives" in my truck. In the middle console I keep a Leatherman Skeletool and an EOD Breacher Bar. The breacher bar would be great for breaking a window, using as a pry bar, make shift shovel, I've even used it to mix concrete for a post hole when I couldn't find anything else.
In my GHB in the "trunk" (Honda Ridgeline), I also have a Gerber Bear Grylls fixed blade I got on clearance at Wally World.
I almost always also have a knife on me as well, usually a locking folder but sometimes a swiss army.
PS...If I wanted to be Bear Grylls I would carry this.
Speaking of knives, I'm in the market to get a new one. Considering this for the fun of it but I might just swing by a surplus store instead
Spyderco (sorta) Byrd knives are your friends. You can get the Delica / Endura variants for about $20 each. This is Spyderco's official Chinese brand. I carried one for a long time.
I also listened to a recent interview on Primary /Secondary where some "operators" were talking about how they carry Byrd knives for the same reason you are discussing: If they have to toss it, they couldn't care less, but it'll still do everything they need it to do.
What do you use the Skeletool most for?
If you use the knife on it constantly and daily, then yeah, get a good knife. If the stuff that you do cut makes you nervous with the Skeletool then definitely get a dedicated knife.
If you use the bit driver or pliers on the Skeletool the most then you probably don't need to carry a dedicated knife.
Give the Sage 5 a good look as well if you are considering the Para3. I'd also strongly recommend finding a Spyderco/Benchmade/Zero Tolerance dealer and fondling a bunch of knives before making a decision on which knife to buy.
If you have never carried a dedicated knife before it would be a good idea to buy a cheaper knife or two before spending $100+ on a knife.
Could try something like the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2:
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499523866&sr=1-1&keywords=Byrd+Cara+Cara2
The Ontario Rat I/II
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-Knife-Sp-Black-Folding-7Inches/dp/B00BBPAOCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523684&sr=8-2&keywords=ontario+rat+2
https://www.amazon.com/Ontario-8848-Folding-Knife-Black/dp/B0013ASG3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523956&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ontario+rat+1&psc=1
Kershaw Cryo
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1555TI-SpeedSafe-Folding-Knife/dp/B0074FI28Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499523664&sr=8-1&keywords=kershaw+cryo
CRKT Squid
https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-Folding/dp/B00TFY39EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499524020&sr=1-1&keywords=crkt+squid
Try some under $30 knives, pick one that looks like something you would like to carry, and pick something that is dang near the polar opposite. It will let you know what you like in a knife much cheaper. Differences in blade size, blade shape, handle shape and how they are used might change your opinion on what you think you need in a knife after using a dedicated knife for awhile. After that you can make a truly informed decision on a high-end knife.
I think the meadowlark 2 is a good shout then, quite small and cuts well with good blade geometry. If you were looking for something a little larger maybe the Cara cara 2, it is a very nice blade for under £25.
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B0049AYJP4
the BK14 is a legitimate colab between ESEE and Kabar/Ethan Becker so if you want a knife with the same handle, but a bigger blade, that's your best bet. Also you can buy Orange Zytel scales for it as well if you wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK14-Becker-Knife-Eskabar/dp/B004CIQY6K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405386912&sr=8-1&keywords=bk14
http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Becker-Scales-Handles-Orange/dp/B0073GZSM4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405386912&sr=8-2&keywords=bk14
This is the knife that always comes with me whenever I do pretty much anything outside. Becker Necker Eskabar
get an eskabar http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CIQY6K/ref=asc_df_B004CIQY6K1991620?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B004CIQY6K&hvpos=1o1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1466207221276845999&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=
If you're doing hard use on the trail, I'd recommend a fixed blade, not a folder. I'd recommend a kabar bk14 or a bk24. You'd have enough money left over to get the scales for either of them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LfXCxbB5ZEPZ0
https://www.amazon.com/VISM-NcStar-Chest-CVAKCR2921B-Black/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496674072&sr=8-1&keywords=vism+ak+chest+rig
This is very cheap and can hold 10 mags easily
This is what I use. It can hold up to twelve 18-dart mags:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Am 6'3 200+ and i use this
https://www.amazon.com/VISM-NcStar-Chest-CVAKCR2921B-Black/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1480011795&sr=8-5&keywords=chest%2Brig&th=1
Here is how it looks with mags
https://youtu.be/OY8Gd88s6as
This is the vest I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E98Z4K/ref=twister_B005OIBYQM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not sure if this is the one 'Sir Petals' uses, but I really like it and would recommend it!
Bought one:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-Stud-4in-STAINLESS/dp/B006OCP46S
considered making one, and may yet try that.
Have you considered something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-Stud-4in-STAINLESS/dp/B006OCP46S
you could get this http://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-Stud-4in-STAINLESS/dp/B006OCP46S/ref=pd_sim_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HAS1D525NJW2JB41XK
or contact kershaw about it
I agree, and it's surprisingly usable for all its minimalism. I ordered one of these for one-handed-opening assist, but I don't know it if will ruin the minimalism (hasn't arrived yet).
This is my Proper. I work a lot in New York City so I needed something friendly. I found I like it with an added Kwik thumb stud and a Tec P-7 suspension clip.
The thumb stud is an add on I got at amazon.
Link: http://amzn.com/B006OCP46S
Awesome advice, all of the above models would be quite suitable. For pure woods use, something with a brighter color would probably do quite well for you. But I'm going to have to stick my neck out for some downvotes as well by disagreeing with the half-serration comment. I don't see it as "tactical," at all. I tend to prefer a half-serrated blade. I like serrations for cutting things like rope, handfuls of plastic sheeting, etc. If you just want a knife for the woods, you might not worry about it. I have knives that I carry with both types of edge, but I usually gravitate back to the half-serration. My personal every day carry is an older generation of Spyderco Endura which has a 4" blade, but is very light, well made, and strong. They make a 3" version called the Delica which I carried a lot when I was younger. You can get a perfectly serviceable knife for a lot less, but I've been carrying these for almost 20 years, and my current one has been through a hell that no knife deserves. They make them with plain edges as well, I've had them, but I don't tend to like them as much. Good luck, and I feel like pretty much everyone should have a knife. You just never know when it might be useful.
> Spyderco Delica [I remember when these were $40 MSRP.
$62 with free Prime shipping.
Thanks for the condolences. If you want a cheap version of a spyderco knife I would get one of these Byrd knifes. I am rocking this one and love it.
Spyderco byrd Meadowlark2 Black G-10 PlainEdge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0048FU4F4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fW5izbBFG7M0C
Spyderco Delica 4 Flat Ground Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aX5izbQRC25YW
The Delica 4 flat ground plain edge knife on amazon says it's FRN but is the only thing that comes up when I search for FFG are they they similar or is that the wrong knife? Delica 4 Flat Ground Plain Edge Knife
Well, I prefer a lighter EDC, so i'd recommend the
This one is a very nice EDC for most people who use a knife for lighter tasks such as box cutting, opening packages and the like. I would not recommend this for someone who tends to use their knives for "heavier duty" tasks.
Pretty much the same recommendation criteria as the Skyline, but this knife is both spring assisted, and has a more "delicate" point.
Probably one of the most recommended knives for someone who wants an overall solid EDC at the price point with a lot of versatility and good overall durability. I own one myself, and this one is great for EDC.
The Ontario knife company really hit it out of the park with the RAT series, the Ontario RAT model II is a better choice for EDC over the RAT model I, mainly because the knife is a bit smaller putting it at about 2.75" blade and less "intimidating" for someone who needs for EDC.
I really like the Izula as a fixed blade EDC knife, it's a fucking tank and you can be sure you can rely on it everywhere, but it does lose some versatility and convenience because it isn't a folder.
--------------------------------------------------
Please keep in mind that these are just my suggestions and reviews, if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me anything.
That's good.
https://www.amazon.ca/Spyderco-Delica-Ground-Plain-Knife/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521669140&sr=8-1&keywords=delica
Here's the Delica for $90, that is a lot it's definitely worth it.
The Kershaw Leek is a good option. And you cant go wrong with the Delica 4 I got the purple one. Everyone on here says great things about the Mini Griptillian which I dont own but probally will at some point. Also you can never go wrong with something from Case, I have the [Trapperlock](https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=trapperlock in amber bone and I hear great things about the Copperlock.
https://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-BlackWash-Stainless-Reversible-Pocketclip/dp/B00J14BOBU
The model I'm selling is this blackwashed finished one.
Yea, I'm wondering the same thing. I'm in MD and just got this gorgeous knife and can't seem to find out if it's actually considered a switchblade or not. It's assisted opening (my first) but it's not just a press and release either because you have to unlock.
Get a 7.4v LiPo
IMAX B6 Charger
Pyramex I Force
One Tigris Mask
MAG MP5 Mids
No problem.
Moving on to another topic: mouth protection, or more specifically: teeth protection.
With a rigid mesh it can be hard to get a proper cheek-weld, that is an issue I had in my latest game, thus why many prefer a mesh mask that has fabric on the sides, like this
I don't have it myself, but I have heard good things about it. Protects your mouth, while at the same time allowing you to easily shoulder the gun and aim.
Other alternatives are light mouthguards that you soak in hot water, and then bite down on, thus shaping them to your teeth. However not all fields allow them, so something to keep in mind, and getting a bb to your lips will still hurt, even if it doesn't cause your teeth to shatter.
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Foldable-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective/dp/B01KT0HEVS This the one you use? It has patches?
Ooh, let us know how well this handles once you get it locked down.
I don't think it's quite as slim as something like an AK Chest Rig But it looks like if you could get two on your hips, or 1-2 on some sort of backpack rig it could be a worthwhile addition.
I don't own one yet myself, so I don't have a specific recommendation. Keep an eye out on the /r/humansvszombies and /r/Nerf, though. People post stuff like that all the time.
Edit: I checked amazon, and cheap chest rigs run between $20-$30, and cheap tactical vests run $30-$40.
A lot of people at GSU are running with this vest:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E98Z4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I do believe it's the same one that's sold in the link you posted, except it's much cheaper.
I bought one, but use it for my actual AK74 magazines, though people easily fit 18 round Nerf mags into the pouches.
I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005E98Z4K/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?keywords=NCStar%20AK%20chest%20rig)&qid=1360524902&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3 (Excuse the formatting, on mobile)
Works fine for me, I think BasicNerf uses a similar one.
Sorry no more pics I already shipped it. I was able to find it though...
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-SS-BRK-KTS01756-Stud-Stainless/dp/B006OCP46S
The one I had was all black. You just tighten it down with the provided Hex key. Lots of pics in the reviews
I don't know about that. I've never owned either knife. I just figured a thumb stud would help.
Here, they come in satin, black, and brass
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-SS-BRK-KTS01756-Stud-Stainless/dp/B006OCP46S
https://www.amazon.com/Kwik-Thumb-Stud-4in-STAINLESS/dp/B006OCP46S
it absolutley does work very well for one handed opening
85https://www.amazon.ca/Spyderco-Delica-Ground-Plain-Knife/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549287248&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spyderco+delica&dpPl=1&dpID=41s92VXupUL&ref=plSrch
Would you recommend this? Keep in mind its cdn dollars
a knife
or this knife
I have the linked leek, it's extremely sharp and extremely flat.I like it a lot.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14BOBU/ref=s9_acss_bw_pg_x_10_t?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=ZF9KY1AZTPZBE9V68VEJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=203127c9-957e-4de3-8b99-74bd784d37d5&pf_rd_i=20237338011
It doesn't look like there are any more today that are going to be over 50, but this one is a great knife and they automatically take 10 off the price until midnight PST tonight.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J14BOBU/ref=gb1h_img_c-2_7022_da5f3ce7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1N3WGG8DTCXKSXSB5924&pf_rd_i=384082011&pf_rd_p=1980507022
It also is coming up on a lightning deal tomorrow, though, at 10:40 CST, and I'm guessing it'll be more than ten off.
Lexan is a commonly used material for making protectors for red dot sights and such you might be able to make a visor out of that.
However, I don't know how long you have been away but there are some nice new additions to the market. If you want to go budget but want a lot of comfort aswell be sure to check out the following items:
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01KT0HEVS
this one
I got it from a Chinese website though, so it's even cheaper
This one https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01KT0HEVS ? Because in the pictures it looks like it wouldn't fit with those.
https://www.amazon.com/Pyramex-I-Force-Sporty-Anti-Fog-Premium/dp/B07Q51VS12
Clear H2X anti fog
https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Apex-Fast-Attack-RIS-M4-Carbine-AEG-Airsoft-Rifle-Polymer-Option-34875/
Battery+charger combo
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Foldable-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective/dp/B01KT0HEVS
https://www.amazon.com/Umarex-Elite-Premium-Biodegradable-Airsoft/dp/B07Y958GF2
.28g/5000
Select what I put at the bottom of every link
One Tigris Mesh Mask. Its really good. I own one
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01KT0HEVS
https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Comfortable-Adjustable-Protective-Available/dp/B01KT0HEVS
here's the holy trinity I suggest to everyone with this question. Cheapest: https://www.amazon.com/Wesson-SWHRT9B-Outdoor-Tactical-Survival/dp/B07THMKS3B Best for a "weapon": https://www.amazon.com/KA-BAR-Marine-Corps-Fighting-Straight/dp/B07KFNLPDZ/ref=pd_sbs_200_1/134-8730811-3738123?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07KFNLPDZ&pd_rd_r=2462612e-cbab-4572-becc-1bc13e89858f&pd_rd_w=zo5L0&pd_rd_wg=TY5xV&pf_rd_p=43281256-7633-49c8-b909-7ffd7d8cb21e&pf_rd_r=97ZT1BGE29JARD4RPTVF&refRID=97ZT1BGE29JARD4RPTVF Nicest looking and best for a dedicated tool: https://www.amazon.com/Knives-Special-Fixed-Leather-Sheath/dp/B000EHWWJQ/ref=wsdps_2?cv_ct_pg=detail&cv_ct_wn=woodstock-detail&linkCode=oad&cv_ct_id=ws&pf_rd_r=TD6J7MD9SFQE37WW9D7T&pd_rd_wg=AuCCX&pd_rd_w=axkeg&pd_rd_r=a9447115-06e9-4e31-92a6-522146ba1a51&th=1
Buck 119
I've broken the blades on two Bushlores before I gave up on them. They're very brittle steel for some reason.
You dont have to bother with it, honestly. I think i might have found one, and i dont want to take up your time. I might just buy it at the reenactment. if not...http://www.amazon.com/Buck-0119BKS-B-Special-Fixed-Blade/dp/B000EHWWJQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=5GMPSHFP41R3&coliid=I1BANATUJDVRT2
at the distance of inspection i will have, it should pass.
Hunter/fisherman/camper here. I have had the Buck 119 for 12 years now and have used this knife for EVERYTHING. I have cleaned/skinned game/fish, cut firewood, used it for cooking; you name it. For the price it is a fantastic knife. I can't think of a task it would not handle and even if there was one, it is so inexpensive it would not break the bank to replace it. http://www.amazon.com/Buck-119BKS-Spec-Hunting-6/dp/B000EHWWJQ
The knife does not always hold the best edge but it is a snap to sharpen and I can put a real nice edge on it in no time.
Edit; wanted to add the part about sharpening.
A Buck 119 is $50 or so, and infinitely better.
Morakniv Companion and Buck 119 are awesome choices.
https://www.amazon.com/Morakniv-Companion-Outdoor-Stainless-4-1-Inch/dp/B00EF2RUD4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EHWWJQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502984683&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=buck+119+knife&dpPl=1&dpID=315rFijBsPL&ref=plSrch
If you dont know already, that's a Buck 119 Special. They're pretty cheap and is a great knife. Pick one up, you won't regret it.
Get a Leatherman multi-tool for EDC (Wave is the best all around but the Wingman is a solid alternative if you find the Wave to be too large) and a heavy duty outdoors knife that can be used to baton wood (like the Mod 4 or RAT-5). Get a solid hunk of steel and make sure it's full tang.
Personally I would go with something like a Buck hunting knife . They are a nice compromise between the smaller knives and excessivley heavy bowies.
Best choice:
Benchmade 940
A little cheaper, smaller, and with plastic scales:
Benchmade Mini Griptilian
Osborn is one of the best affordable EDC.
I got my dad a Spyderco Dragonfly. I looked at many other knives, including the Benchmade 940. But this is the one i think suits him best.
My comment was written with most everyday people in mind. They're mostly sharpening bad 440C kitchen knives and don't want to spend a lot of money. Another big thing is that your average person in the kitchen doesn't even know just how sharp a knife can get. The average guy is usually okay with a good working edge. I was recommending the honing rod and the Lansky system because they're inexpensive, easy-to-use, and they last a long time. Plus, most people are never even going to need a Lansky. That's already more advanced than most want to get.
If you have good knives though, everything changes. If you're a knife guy, then yeah absolutely you need to have a more sophisticated sharpening system.
We're both knife guys, so you'll probably agree that it all really depends on which knife you're using.
There are so many factors that go into it.
How thick is the knife?
What's the blade length/shape?
What's the steel?
What's the grind? Convex? Hollow? Full-Flat Grind? Scandi? Sabre?
What's the angle on that grind?
What type of knife is this?
What kind of edge do I want to put on it?
I personally just put a convex edge on most of my knives, so all I really use is a strop and a handful of compounds. For everything else I just use an Apex Edge Pro.
As much as I dislike Benchmade as a company, the Benchmade 940 is the easiest to carry EDC knife I've ever used. It really does disappear into your pocket in a way no other knife I've ever used does. It's a quality design as well.
http://www.amazon.com/Benchmade-940-Osborne-Design-Knife/dp/B000QA9G2W
My favorite knoife
I have always been a big believer in Benchmade. They make such good quality knives. They make a lot more than just pocket knives as well, so check them out if you have different needs (Hunting, Martial Arts)
​
For everyday carry I personally recommend the Benchmade 940
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QA9G2W/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I've only ever had three. The first two I stupidly lost in camping trips, but I keep going back to this one. It's got a slim profile and bezels and an easy-open function for the knife itself. It's easy to open with one hand if needed. It comes from the factory razor sharp.
​
I do my own honing and sharpening, but Benchmade offers lifetime sharpening on the knives you buy from them. You just have to pay shipping costs.
​
There are other knives by Benchmade I've always wanted to try, but many of them are quite an investment. However, when it comes to quality and abuse, I will never use anything else.
If i flip heavy its at least once a week, normally i can tell when my bali needs more lube. I'm a big fan of Hoppe's 9 lubricating oil, you can get a 15ml bottle with a nice applicator tip for like $8 on amazon.
Here is the link if you want it
That's the minimum. I would also recommend CLP as a mid-step between solvent and lube, and as a general cleaner and protectant. Cleaning brushes and picks are useful for getting into the harder to reach places. Finally a bore snake down the barrel at the range after shooting from chamber to muzzle a couple times will make cleaning significantly easier.
Put some lube on it. Any type will do; I use Hoppe's #9 mostly because I like the applicator tip on the bottle.
Even WD-40 will do in a pinch, though it's discouraged since it will get dirty quickly. Whatever you end up using, just put a drop on each side of each pivot then swing the handles back and forth a bit to work it in there. You could put a drop on the latch too if that's squeaking.
Popular brands are Nano Oil 10wt,Militec-1,Benchmade Blue lube,Hoppe's No. 9,KPL Knife Pivot Lube,3-in-1 oil,and Tuff Glide dry lubricantjust to name a few in no particular order. I personally like Nano-oil the best but have been hearing really good things about KPL.
Hoppes #9 oil with precision dropper is great as well. I use this stuff all over the house -- it's great.
http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Lubricating-14-9-Precision-Bottle/dp/B0013R67A6
Mine does the same thing in the same spot.
I use Hoppes #9 Lubricating Oil on all my multitools. Great stuff. I advise against WD-40. Although it does work, and does lubricate, it also seems to attract a lot of dirt and smell like WD40 for quite a while. Hoppes or any high-viscosity gun lubricant works best.
Well you recall half correctly. There's a solvent and an oil. I use the oil obviously.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013R67A6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1382476593&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70#
I think the next size up in the All Weather line is 52", I got mine for $99 on sale.
https://www.amazon.com/Plano-Double-Scoped-Rifle-Wheels/dp/B0029KDHQI
Why go for the Pelican vs this Plano?
Plano big case for 308 bolt.
Plano for savage baby bolt and plano for spr.
SBR case with room for two. 10.5 inch ar is pushing it but without flash hider should be fine
Drago 36 inch case spare at this point.
On amazon. It's pretty sweet. It has roller wheels, it locks shut and has an airtight seal.
The Plano Double Scoped Rifle Case as others have mentioned, would be a great choice. Slightly cheaper here.
I have Plano double rifle case and it works great. I carry a g36c with 5 mags and mk14 ebr in it with 6 mags. I just traveled from Los Angeles to Texas with no problem with my airline or tsa except the $75 special baggage fee. Just a warning this case is massive we have to put a seat down in most coupes because it won't fit in the trunk.
Plano Double Scoped Rifle Case w/Wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029KDHQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aCZKzbQ3SYM7A
I have one of these Plano cases if you're interested.
This Plano case might work. The inside dimensions are listed as 51.5 inches, so it might just fit. I have the 42" version and I'm pleased with it.
I think the case in the post is probably significantly more comparable to this Plano case, so price is pretty relevant.
I would make sure that your rifle can fit into the case prior to ordering it. I have both the 42" Plano case and the longer case with wheels (this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). My rifle (20" barrel) BARELY fits into the longer case. It's a great case overall though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029KDHQI?keywords=double%20scoped%20plano&qid=1457403241&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
If you live in a humid area or run a swamp cooler frequently, those security cabinets would not do much against rust even with a dehumidifier as they usually are riddled with holes for bolts and have no good seal (could probably plug them pretty easy though). When I had to store my rifle for an extended amount of time I purchased water/air tight and crushproof case (akin to a pelican) like this one for $109.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0029KDHQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526712166&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plano+gun+case&dpPl=1&dpID=41oEIZkbqNL&ref=plSrch
As well as a silica reusable dehumidifier to put in the case as, such as this two pack for $20.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015NL95HE/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1526712577&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=silica%2Bdehumidifier%2Bhydrosorbent&dpPl=1&dpID=41Fd%2BG9vMqL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
I keep one in my rifle case and one in my ammo crate as well. The dehumidifiers have a gauge on the bottom which tell you when they need to be reset by putting them in the oven. I had my case sealed for most of a year in a humid climate and there is no hint of rust or even a mildew-ey smell and have also not had to reset the silica gel packs yet either. Added perk, these cases are TSA compliant so you could fly with your guns or any other valuables in this case and they have locking latches as well. The locks would obviously not prevent somebody from running off with the case, but it would have some security benefit surely.
Also comes with pluck-apart foam to customize for your rifle which is a $50 option on a $250 pelican case so it's a good value.
I second the butt out tool. Surprised that it isn't mentioned here more. Now I can't imagine gutting without one. Keep it in your bag in a big ziploc bag. Then it's the first thing you do. It's easy to do. Basically you're just pulling the entire rectum out of the animal so you don't have to worry about it when you're dressing. It's great. It's going to get a little nasty, so you just put it back in the bag.
Also - no one has really talked about full length field dressing gloves. They make HUGE difference. You're covered all the way up to your shoulder. They make it a lot easier to focus on what you actually need to be doing instead of focusing on how you don't like how it feels. The Vicks Vapor rub is a great tip too. I don't use it anymore but it was a life saver when my Dad said, "Ok, it's time for you to start doing this yourself." I actually had Vicks in a contact case in my pack ready to go because I knew that one year soon he'd say that.
Happy to see how supportive this discussion is. Hunters don't talk about it much and you get a lot of man up nonsense when the topic comes up. The truth is that we all went through it and most of us were surprised at how nasty it was when we actually had to get in there vs. watching our fathers or mothers do it. Every meat eater should have to dress an animal at least once in their life in my opinion.
Actually from what I hear they are handy.
The object in question
Deer Saw (for pelvic area)
Butt Out
This will definetly help you to achieve your goal. Have fun, stay safe!
Pull out the core
See if he has one of these.
I swear it takes longer to get the butthole out than the rest of the process combined.
http://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Specialties-Butt-Game-Dressing/dp/B002ECKYSA/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I’m a hunter, and I’ve seen these devices that you insert into a dead deer’s anus, then snatch it out so the asshole turns inside out. I think I’m cases of violent rape, this should be the rapists punishment. Insert that tool in his asshole, then snatch it out like you’re trying to crank a chainsaw.
See?: https://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Specialties-Butt-Game-Dressing/dp/B002ECKYSA
http://www.amazon.com/Hunters-Specialties-Butt-Game-Dressing/dp/B002ECKYSA
You'll need one of these.
This it? https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B002ECY7XI
I have the Manix 2. I don't like the look of most Spydercos but this one I love. I use it a lot, It feels great in my hand, not too heavy, not too light, cleans pretty easy, and it seems like it is going to last a long time.
I decided to go with the Spyderco Manix 2 G-10 ... but I'm not buying it yet. I'm hoping to get it as a gift, so I'm keeping it on my Amazon wish list :)
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B002ECY7XI
How about a pocket knife? They have the benefit of being both cool and extremely useful. You can get yourself a Spyderco Manix 2 on Amazon for just under a hundred bucks with free shipping. It's a good size for a lot of tasks, but small enough that it can easily be carried in your pocket. An excellent EDC blade for the price.
Never tried it personally, but maybe something like this would work well for you.
KAK Micro, if it'll fit inside your handguard:
https://www.kakindustry.com/ar-15-parts/upper-parts/barrels/barrel-parts/flash-hiders-and-muzzle-breaks/5-8-24-threads/kak-industry-micro-slim-flash-can-5-8
Alternatively, I frequently use:
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/cut-off-saws/6-in-55-amp-cut-off-saw-61204.html
along with: https://www.amazon.com/BW-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG
No it’s a liquid. Link and it’s $8 with prime.
Probably Aluminum Black.
Aluminum does not rust...also if you scratch the finish off the lower you can use this to touch it up.
https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Aluminum-Black-Touch-Up/dp/B002JCW2CG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526620726&sr=8-3&keywords=aluminum+black
how it looks and works https://youtu.be/mXFZQlmIQ7s?t=2m15s
These lowers are also back in stock and 39.99 each with 9 bucks shipping http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-stealth-lower.html
why not this route?
total: $79
or:
total: $87
whats the problem with a single stage press?
I've never used it, so I don't know how hard it is to re-size, but Lee swears it works, and it is big enough.
Here's the other "cheap" press.
2-die .308 set
2-die .223
The 2-die sets will work with either press.
Your best bet is getting him a brand new [lee] (https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I). You're not gonna beat that price, and they do work, quite well.
The dies itself will cost about 25 used, to 40 new. Id reccomend saving up for a turret press, ie, or if your strapped for cash, a single stage press. The kits are nice because you dont have to piece meal out every thing else, like powder dump, primer, scale etc. Just avoid the lee single load beam design ie, which I referred to as "lee classic" in a previous post.
I have no idea what the mallet design is, nore can I find it on lee's website. Sounds like a good way to get a stuck case in a die.
Also check out the reloading page on armlist for used equip. I think its under "firearm accessories".
edit: unless you mean this crazy thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc
Heck you can get a cheaper benchmount press for decapping.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SF4X5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451426548&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=reloading+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41XdIt26QOL&ref=plSrch
how do you like the paklite? been eying it for my camping gear as a lightweight knife. for $20 its hard to beat. carry this guy in the woods - http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395235259&sr=8-2&keywords=schrade+knife
Y'all are dangerous. This came from just a little bit of browsing this sub and some searching and review reading and whatnot. Amazon links for convenience:
Leatherman Crater c33Tx
Kershaw Leek
Schrade SCHF9 Extreme Survival Knife
CRKT 2020 AG Russell Sting
Any advice or substitutions anybody care to offer? I think for the money this is a pretty damn fine set of 4 knives. The Leatherman might get some funny looks but I had its younger brother for many years and it would probably replace my current EDC (Kershaw Skyline)
Edit: Will definitely take lots of pictures when I pull the trigger.
If you want it just for batoning, take a look at the Schrade SCHF9 . 6" long, 1/4 inch thick 1095 steel for $36 delivered.
This Schrade might be worth looking at.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_uvr3tb03C01V8NE7
Not full tang but what I recommend: here
Full tang recommendation: here
It depends on what you need. I enjoy Schrade knives, and some good options are:
Only thing to look out for: Schrade sheaths aren't super good. They work, but they're not as nice as premium brands.
Ok so I looked a bit and for your budget they have quite a few knifes that fit the bill.
This is the one has great reviews and I personally love the design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0033H7VI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397075251&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40
What do you think?
*EDIT- here's a review with some field testing. For this price point it does work http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9EQk4vO94s
Gerber EAB & 250 blades (5x 50 packs) Irwin Industrial Tools Bi-Metal Blue Utility Blade, 50-Pack
I can open boxes for the rest of my life!
For an EDC: 2x Spyderco Delica 4
lol im really not a gun snob, but i love my full size mk25, in the summer or when i dont have a suit i carry a small sig p938 so i dont mind smaller guns at all. My spyderco that i just lost was a delica 4. heres the link. I loved it! I also carried a cutco folding knife that was amazing
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Lightweight-Ground-PlainEdge/dp/B003CH3V5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496332376&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+delica+4+knife
https://www.cutco.com/products/product.jsp?item=lockback-knife#sm.0000tnlyoz18n2dx1qfcjipmxla5a
FYI, its currently $65 on amazon.
You are also in price range of the Delica 4 and Centofante 3 or Endura 4
These are much better knives than the Tenacious, Skyline or Cryo. VG-10 is much better steel, made with much better quality control from better materials.
Obviously, they are right at your price point, but its a whole-nother-level type of thing when compared to the Cryo and such.
The Delica 4 has a 2.875 inch VG-10 blade and is 4.25 inches in length when closed. Handle thickness is about the same with the Nano at 0.40".
It weighs 2.5 ounces, which actually makes it lighter than the Nano at 2.9 ounces.
Spyderco Delica4 Lightweight FRN Flat Ground PlainEdge Knife (Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3V5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iURdvb1FNA170
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3V5E/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iURdvb1FNA170
[Why spend $300??](ka-bar tdi law enforcement knife fixed blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IXYW3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4v4JBbFZDCJ53)
I dunno what you're looking for, but this is what I carry on my offhand.
https://www.amazon.com/KA-BAR-Enforcement-Knife-Fixed-Blade/dp/B003IXYW3M/
It's small and discreet, great concealability and quick to access. comes with a left/right draw kydex sheath with good retention.
If you're just looking for something to cut clothing for tourniquets or seat belts they also have a serrated version.
My brother is coming to visit with me and my wife for the first time since we got married. We're gonna go shooting and then have a video game marathon! So stoked!
Thanks for the contest! Wow $50 is huge!
1.21 Gigawatts
MARTTTTYYYYYY!!!!!!
Link
This seems to be a pretty popular option among the self-defense world. Not sure what purpose you're wanting, but I'm sure this would be more than sufficient.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003IXYW3M/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all
I've bee looking at #this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IXYW3M/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115
My brother bought one of these(TekMat 12-Inch X 36-Inch Long Gun Cleaning Mat with AK-47 Imprint), if that's your thing, they make great mouse pads and roughly the same price, just a bit thicker and 12" instead of 18". They also make ones with other popular firearm models.
It's a TEKMAT
Thanks, It's a gun cleaning mat I ordered from amazon.
http://www.amazon.ca/Beck-Tek-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning/dp/B003JOLCAG
Saw someone else on here with one and I had to have it hah
https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G/ref=pd_sim_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C87RX0S784RCWTW8Z4QE
https://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B003JOLCAG/ref=pd_sim_200_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S9E1VS89M6Z76BJR3GR6
Amazon
My guesses:
Bear Grylls : his gerber knife!
Pee-Wee : his bad ass bike?
It's the Gerber 31-000751 and runs about $40 on Amazon. It's obviously too big for my EDC, so I haven't used it much, but it feels solidly constructed. The grip is... grippy. I've tried the firestarter/whistle, and they work as expected. The cover is also well constructed and could be hung from a belt, if you're into that kind of thing.
All said, despite being branded by Bear Grylls, I'd still recommend it. :)
just this
I don't know if this is what you were looking for but this knife matches most of your criteria and price range: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000751-Survival-Ultimate-Serrated/dp/B003R0LSMO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
It is $32 on amazon but $60 in all my local camping stores. The blade steel is alright, nothing spectacular but for the money it's a good knife. I like mine. The serrated edge will come in great for cutting line quickly. Plus some of the safety features are great for a backpacking knife such as a whistle, a sharpener, and a fire starter. It also comes with a survival booklet. I doubt your brother needs it, but hey, never hurts to read up on some stuff.
Personally I have this
I don't know how real survivalists would rate it, but for going camping and being my first fixed blade knife, I really enjoy it.
Well the actual price would be like 100 bucks right? (at least it is in Euro)
Theres one for sale for 40 Euros right now, should I get it?
http://www.amazon.de/Gerber-Grylls-Survival-Ultimate-GE31-000751/dp/B003R0LSMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425314802&sr=8-2&keywords=gerber+bg+knife
I should probably check on this. I have this zipped to the strap on my hydro pack... Brought it on a bike-camping trip to the Mountains, and just left it there (not for local rides).
Best Price!
http://charts.camelcamelcamel.com/us/B003R0LSMO/amazon.png?force=1&zero=0&w=725&h=440&desired=false&legend=1&ilt=1&tp=all&fo=0&lang=en
This isn't a good deal. It's been about that price on Amazon for a while.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Gerber-Grylls-Ultimate-Serrated-31-000751/product/B003R0LSMO?context=search
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Lightweight-black-PlainEdge/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1510245641&sr=1-1&keywords=spyderco+byrd&dpID=41XM2VunQVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Basically, any folding knife you get needs to be less than 3.75" cutting length of the blade, and cannot use any kind of spring to help it open quickly. A switch blade is a double-bladed, spring assisted knife that is also illegal (since it's spring assisted), unless the cutting length is less an one inch.
For me, my favorite is the Spyderco Byrd Cara Cara 2 knife. I think you can still find it online for a good price. Keeps an edge pretty well, and is legal in WA state.
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B0049AYJP4
Spyderco's Byrd Cara Cara 2 is pretty good. It's my current EDC and its only 18 dollars currently
http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=pd_sim_sg_5
Consider Sypderco's brand of less expensive knives, Byrd. Not quite as high quality materials or construction, but damn good for the price.
For instance, the Byrd Cara Cara 2, Byrd's version of the Spyderco Endura. Excellent starter knife at ~$21 for those looking into Spyderco who aren't convinced about spending $55+ for an Endura.
The Byrd Cara Cara 2 really is a poor man's Endura and I actually prefer it in hand due to the choil adding better ergos. Certainly an option for $20. http://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Cara2-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B0049AYJP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425872450&sr=8-1&keywords=byrd+cara+cara+2
I have yet to find a nicer $20 knife...unique most certainly not however!
Perhaps a Becker BK 14 Eskabar (ESEE handle + KA-BAR blade) - para-cord wrap. Can manipulate and use Izula scales
I think it also can fit the KA-BAR TDI clip
​
ESEE Izula I
​
Esee Izula 2 (bigger handle)
​
you might have to get aftermarket clips though
I have the the cold steel spike its like $20-$30. its a fine knife. im not a huge fan of cold steel but i have no problem with the spike yet. it comes in a couple different blade cuts. Tanto, bowie,tokyo , drop point
if you are willing to go a couple bucks higher id go with the Ka-bar Eskabar. its a little heftier. and i love Ka-bar. it comes incredibly sharp. i almost cut my finger off with it actually.
Unless you MUST have red or pink the Becker BK11 (aka Necker) and the Eskabar are just about half the price of the Izula for damn near the same thing.
I was in a similar spot recently, I went for a Condor Bushlore, though it's on the shorter end, though it all depends on what you're looking for. The Becker Bk-14 is another option, and a cheaper alternative to the Izula-II
Bushlore
Becker
If you like KaBar, their Becker line is better for camping. The old USMC fighting knife is for that, fighting. They are also known to break at the handle under hard use.
I love my Eskabar. Wrap the handle in paracord for a better grip, and some emergency cordage.
I'd second that. This Ka-Bar is reasonably priced, with good reviews. You could even consider the small size a feature, since that means it's light.
I was just coming here to ask if i should get a bk14 or izula.
Has anyone tried both and come to a conclusion?
Consider: http://www.amazon.com/Buck-0119BKS-B-Special-Fixed-Blade/dp/B000EHWWJQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1320989368&sr=1-1
not wd40, you could try this (or a similar bearing lubricant) https://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Lubricating-14-9-Precision-Bottle/dp/B0013R67A6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=396HZ8CRQE95B&dchild=1&keywords=bearing+lubricant&qid=1574097107&sprefix=bearing+lub%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-5
fan should be accessible through the housing opening to put a drop on the bearing. Though I wouldnt count on it helping.
probably need to replace the fan. yes, opening a PSU is not the safest thing... but if you wear thick rubber gloves (like dishwashing gloves, not latex or cotton gloves), your safe enough. Dont go poking things with metal, just get to the fan and get out.
/u/DoctorCongo may be interested in the grip
And Manix 2 is 75 new from amazon or am I missing something?
>6.4" blade, 5.6" handle
>1095 High Carbon Steel
>Kraton handle
>15.9 ounces
$35. Took about 5 seconds to copy and paste into Amazon.
Just a bit larger, but not by much, the BK 14.
https://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-BK14-Becker-Knife-Eskabar/dp/B004CIQY6K
it fits perfect in this sheath.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RIEJA8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CIQY6K/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1375939394&sr=8-7&pi=SL75
fixed blade survival knife. I like gerber, here is one example from Bear Grylls:
http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-000751-Survival-Ultimate-Serrated/dp/B003R0LSMO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395438205&sr=8-4&keywords=gerber+knife#productDetails
I'm seeing it for 66 + tax on Amazon
Spyderco Delica 4 Flat Ground Plain Edge Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089DFGIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gsomzb13998T7
a true man's knife