Are you talking about headphones? Because it would make no sense to need it only to go to the right speaker in the phone itself. You must mean headphones.

You can simply plug an adapter on the end of the headphone jack and just leave it there. What you need is a 3.5mm stereo male to mono female adapter, like this one of these.

Edit: more info.

Then you need an adapter.

3.5mm Stereo Jack to 1/4" Stereo Plug Adapter black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00142BZSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X0-GDb00CYGPW

usb-a to usb-b cable

​

a couple of headphone jack adapters

​

ground wires if you're dealing with vinyl

​

interference suppresion filter clips

​

ethernet cable

​

and a bunch of these

Get something like this and hook it up to your controller.

Here is the manual
It says to use Y cable if you choose to connect to the sub pre out.

Well, considering the resounding consensus around your response, I am definitely going with the first option of the Vanatoo zero's with the sub-1000. I also like the JBL LSR-305s, but desk space is limited and the budget would be stretched, but thanks for adding it for consideration.

Also, can I just use this cable to connect the sub to the Vanatoo's sub output? (again, total noob)

Thank you for your help!

You just need one of these. Super simple. And yes, the DAC in a macbook pro tends to be pretty reliable. I wouldn't listen to the people telling you to get a separate box just because.

Pre-out -> rca y-adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2)

Then convert it again from banana plug to rca on the other end. It's not that hard. Weird setup though.

I'm not proud with how long it took me to come up with this solution. However here is my solution for practicing in my apartment when everyone is asleep.

My CR35 doesnt have a dedicated headphone volume and i found that the preamp volume was too low to work when trying to run it with my AudioTechnica M50 headphones. My solution was simple, in line headphone volume controls; it's just an audio taper potentiometer in a fancy housing but it works really well. The potentiometer is a little aggressive for this application but you can always change it with a lower value one.

I'm not proud with how long it took me to realize I could do this, but let my shame be your boon!

Audio Volume Controller -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KXKVRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics 3.5 mm Male to Male... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

About getting an amplifier:
A power amplifier is basically a device that converts a low power signal to one that is directly fed to the drivers of a loudspeaker, otherwise you wouldn't get any sound ('mic level' and 'line level' signals are too low for loudspeakers)!

Since the B112D is a powered loudspeaker, the amplifier is included in the unit. This means you don't have to go out an buy one separately.

About getting a mixer:
A mixer is a device that takes multiple audio inputs, performs some modifications to the signal (e.g. equaliser, compressor), combines the signals, then spits it out.

You don't really need a mixer if you only have one audio source (sounds like you'll only need one since you're planning to use it for music). Even if you're hoping to mix several sources, the unit itself has individually adjustable gain settings for two discrete inputs. If you need any more than two inputs, the Behringer Xenyx 802 should suffice.

If you're hoping to get a mixer to use multiple speakers, you can simply daisy-chain the speakers together (this means you won't get any stereo separation but 1. it's a pool party, who cares and 2. you probably won't get a stereo signal anyway if you use most mixers). Plug the main input into 'Input 1', then connect your second speaker to the first by connecting an XLR cable to 'Mix Out' on the first speaker, to 'Input 1' on the second.

My advice would be to go out and buy a 3.5mm to XLR male cable, and use that to connect your phone/computer to 'Input 1' on the speaker. If you have a second set, follow the instructions for daisy-chaining above. Do that for however many speakers you have. Good luck!

It isn't. I assume the connection going into the mixer is a 1/4" TRS plug. This won't work.

You need a 3.5mm to dual 1/4" TS Y cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C

or a 3.5mm to 1/4" TS cable like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F

I will come back with an explanation later but you can't use balanced cables to connect consumer equipment. Also, the only stereo jack on the mixer is the headphones jack.

!

Dude....six bucks on Amazon: Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_z-Yevb0AE1WHG

I run my iPad directly into my 2i4 and it is great! However....this is a very sterile, digital approach (fine for quick demos)....now, to warm up the track, I run into a Studio Projects VTB1 - low plate voltage tube preamp: Studio Projects VTB1 Microphone Preamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E3NQC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rbZevb0WZPQSP

Drop a decent tube in, and all the sudden your guitar leaves the fizzy digital realm...

That Pre isn't bad for mics, either - just remember to run a 1/4" cable, not a mic cable in between.

Items used:

Battery SAE Connector $6
SEA connection that has 4 plugs. If I need to hook up a battery charger or air compressor it's nice.

USB Power $10 I used one for the phone itself and one for the hub, however you only need one. I just didnt not want the amplifier taking power away from charging the phone. Redundancy is nice too. Extra USB ports for whatever.

USB Hub $7 For all the gadgets.

USB Phone Power Cable $5 This is the real weak point in the setup. I've gone through a lot of these. monoprice.com is good for really cheap cords.

[Phone Audio output(between phone and amplifier)] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9KUF7O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
$7 Quality cord here. Purchased for the right angle plug.

[Amplifier]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HJWWW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $28
Amplifier output connection: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007FGU7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $30 After not being able to hear very well with no amplifier, this greatly improved the experience.

Helmet coil cord $5 With this cord you never know the cord is there until you get off the bike and it will break away.

Helmet speakers: $10 I found a great deal on ebay for some "hoodie" speakers and I epoxied them in the helmet. You could always use this setup with earbuds too, but I was never fond of getting them pulled out while riding.

Phone mount $35 I would trust it will an $800 phone.

Total Cost w/ Phone Mount: $ 115

Get this.

C2G/Cables to Go 40634 3.5mm Stereo Male to 3.5mm Mono Female Adapter (Metallic Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O7AW98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_lqDxzbNVVMEEZ

Yes!
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS

Set the ps3 to composite for audio only.

I think other people have similar answers but this is the cable you need.

Source: This is my set up. (Actually with a hdmi to dvi also).

edit: Side note, if you can't get an AUX to work for you, you could also plug it directly into your PC in the line in channel (providing you have one, most tower PCs do that I've seen), it would mean you have to have your PC on to listen to your ps3 but your headphones would work and you'd have your PC sound also.

Well what I do is run a 3.5mm lead from the headphone jack on my TV to the line-in port on my PC. That way all the sound goes through the PC... but it looks like your PC doesn't have a line-in which is a problem. You'd need to buy a sound card. Also, it requires your PC to be on all the time, which is OK for me but might not suit you.

EDIT: The only other solution I found is to use a switcher like this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-128-234-3-Way-Input-Expander/dp/B000KVODHA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-1&keywords=switcher+aux

You'd also need two of these leads: http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=pd_bxgy_ce_img_z

It looks like there should be 2 headphone jacks on the front-left of the piano. They're probably 1/4" jacks, so you'll either need to have headphones with a 1/4" plug, or you'll need an adapter like this to connect most common headphones.

You'll need something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY

And put it in the 3.5mm port next to the Green input

Sound needs to go into the pc audio input. This should do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494130704&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+rca+female

It won't. It's 3.5mm in size, but it's still an optical signal. You'll need a Digital to audio converter. Something like this. Then a cable like this one and you are good to go.

Or if you want to make your life easier. Get this cable and use the ps3 av cables.

You'll need to stick some RCA males onto the ends of your speaker wire. You can buy them from Amazon, or if you're really lazy you can even buy lengths of speaker wire with them already attached.

So, based on that Montgomery Ward model number, I found this eBay listing. From the pictures, it appears to be an old style all-in-one system. The turntable is part of the receiver.

The speakers do indeed appear to be 6 ohms based on this picture.

So the only thing you need to do is get some speaker wire to hook the stereo system's "SPEAKERS" output to the inputs on the back of each speaker.

Like someone else said, you'll need cables that are RCA on one and bare wire on the other. By today's standards this is weird, but equipment of that age did use RCA connectors for speakers, so it does make sense.

So you want something like this pair of cables.

Or you could get RCA to speaker terminal adapters like this and then run regular (bare) speaker wire from those adapter to the back of the speakers. (And you can just go to a hardware store and get 18 gauge lamp cord for their electrical department and use that as speaker wire, if you want.)

EDIT: I forgot to mention. 6 ohm speakers with an amplifier that says 8 ohm minimum? Well, it's not a good combination but it's probably not too bad. Both numbers are just estimates. 4 ohm and 8 ohm speakers are the two most common types, and 6 is not as far off from 8. The risk is that your amp will overheat due to working too hard, but personally I don't think the risk is pretty small.

Why not just go >Lightning to 3.5mm
into > 3.5mm splitter into > male to male 3.5mm to your recorder, with the other end of the splitter going to your headphones?

FOR LOCAL GAMES Only - NextRadio app - http://nextradioapp.com/ Tune into local station that is broadcasting game (Ex: 94.1 WIP for the Phillies). Most modern phones have a radio tuner built in. You must use headphones or an audio cable plugged into the headphone jack on the phone/tablet which also acts as the antenna for the radio tuner. I have a 3.5mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2 plugged into aux jack on my computer. this is only useful if you have no radio tuner available.

You can use one of these with 2 of these. You can also get one of these for in line volume control.

If you can't solve it with software, do it with hardware:

• 3.5mm Y-Splitter
  
• 3.5mm Male to Male
  
  If you don't need your own microphone, you need 1 Y-Splitter and 1 MtM. Connect the Y-Splitter to your sound output, connect the MtM to one end of it and to your microphone port.
  
  If you want to keep using your own microphone you should be able to do that with 2 Y-Splitters on the Mic & Sound ports, and a MtM cable connecting both.
  
  DISCLAIMER: I did not test this, but that's what I would try. I see no reason that this won't work.

If you did lose it, or you didnt get one, dont worry, its a regular "headphone" cable with 2 male endings...

just go to any electronic store and get a 3.5mm audio extension cable with 2 male ends. shouldnt be more than $5

This very long and fancy one costs $7 on amazon.

> Can a Modi 2 Uber play from an iPhone?

Yes, but see notes below.

> Is there another DAC that can?

Yes. Pretty much any USB DAC [1] can be made to work with an iPhone, you'll need:

1. The lightning to USB Camera Adapter
   
2. If the DAC is bus-powered (in other words: Draws its power from the USB connection itself, rather than an external wall wart), a powered USB hub.
   
3. Connect iPad to Camera adapter. Camera adapter to hub. Hub to DAC.
   
   However, if you're using a Modi 2 Uber, I would not connect via USB, as it's massively inconvenient when compared to the alternative, which is buying a refurbished Airport Express and a Mini Toslink to Toslink cable. You then connect the Airport Express to the Modi 2 Uber via the Toslink cable, and you use AirPlay on the iPhone.
   
   The AirPlay will for an iPhone yield the exact same audio quality as a wired connection, since AirPlay/AirTunes is a lossless protocol.
   
   ---
   [1] Meaning any USB DAC that conforms to USB Class Audio specs. Most consumer-level DACs do.

Not at all!
We currently use:
3x Logitech C922x Pro Webcams
7x 3.5mm Lapel Mics
7x 3.5mm to 1/4in adapters
2x Mini Audio Mixers
1x USB-to-1/4in Cable
1x 1/4in to 1/4oin cable

For video, we just use the webcams like normal.

For audio, we daisy chain the two mixers with the 1/4in cable, and plugin each mic to their adapters and into the mixers. Use the 1/4in to usb cable to capture the audio out of the last mixer, and now you have a dial for each audio line, but only one audio input device to your PC.

It's not the best solution, but it is way less expensive than buying the hardware video encoding and digital audio mixers would have cost (by factors of 10).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g2NKzbCYK1MW0

Awesome, thank you very much for the suggestion! I found a Xenyx 1002FX for about $50 on some local classifieds. She doesn't have a laptop yet but maybe I'll look at the 502 usb so she can use it when she gets a laptop.

​

It might be a noob question but what cord would she need to plug the volca into the mixer? It looks like it would need to be a 1/8 male split to 1/4 left and right like this cord.

I use this carrying case. It seems better (and cheaper) than the TE offering.

While in the case, I also use the decksaver. Better safe than sorry.

I haven't gotten this tiltable stand yet, but have my eye on it. Useful for G Force LFO, perhaps?

[This Bluetooth speaker also has a line input and is what I use for the OP-1 around the house. The bass sound makes up for the joke of a speaker on the synth.](https://smile.amazon.com/GGMM-Wireless-Bluetooth-Powerful-Enhanced/dp/B01M8NAN59/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526836517&sr=1-1&keywords=GGMM%2BE5%2BWireless%2BSpeaker%2BBluetooth%2BSpeaker%2C%2BPowerful%2BSound%2BEnhanced%2BBass%2B15%2BHours%2BPlaying%2BTime%2C%2BHands%2BFree%2BCalling%2Bwith%2BUSB%2BCharging%2BPort%2B(Black)

Cute.

Stereo to double mono splitter, so when I plug into an audio interface or mixer I've got some options.

DDJ 1000 Master 2 is RCA. Get an RCA to 3.5mm adapter and plug your speakers into Master out 2.

personally I would get a 35mm to RCA cable like this one and plug it into the line in at the back of your deck. No need for separate mic headphone jacks. But yes, your iphone should work great for this purpose!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PZ7QO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using this now and it is actually very nice quality and works perfectly.

The front jacks are only output or input, not both at once like phone jacks are. A simple headphone/microphone splitter should work. For example: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S

Is it something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h5L1BbYQ21QSB

I'm renting and I just recently upgraded to banana plugs. They are great! Mediabridge and Amazon are great resources for this. This is what I use, great quality and price.

Mediabridge Banana Plugs - 12 pair (used in conjunction with surround speaker wire, below)

Mediabridge 12AWG 6FT Speaker Cable with Banana plugs (Front LCR)

Mediabridge 14AWG 100ft speaker wire (surrounds)

Mediabridge 6ft subwoofer RCA cable

Similar alternatives:

• MediaBridge Ultra
  
• Silverback
  
• GearIT
  
• HannLinte

USB or 2 jacks would be simpler, but if you end up getting one with audio and mic on one 3.5mm Jack then you will likely need a splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/

Desktop computers separate the mic and headphones ports. Laptops and phones typically combine them into one. you need a splitter to connect to both inputs at once. like this

Micca and Mediabridge both make affordable speaker cables

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZ5HCTM/ref=twister_B07FZTB7JS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYGMD4I/ref=twister_B079NJXBNY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  They are nicer to use than bare wire but bare wire still works just as well.

Any brand of speaker wire with banana plugs will do. For example:

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-12AWG-Ultra-Speaker-Cable/dp/B01CYGMD4I/

Choose a gauge of wire based on distance and speaker impedance. See Table 1 at:

https://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge

If you're in particular European markets with strange safety regulations, the terminals on the back of your amplifier may be covered with a small flat plastic cap or similar that prevents inserting a banana plug.

Hard to know where to start!

Home theater receivers contain an amplifier as well as a bunch of inputs and usually some video switching stuff. Smaller amps like the Q5 Pro are similar but don't have the video functionality or bass management. They are for use with passive speakers and active (a.k.a. "powered") subwoofers.

The Edifiers are active speakers. In other words they have their own internal amplifier(s). You can't (easily) use them with the home theater receiver, or with something like the Q5 Pro.

Active speakers are cool because they're plug-and-play, and those Edifiers apparently sound pretty nice. The downside to active speakers is that you can't easily expand them. You can't setup a surround sound system, and unless they include a subwoofer output (the Edifiers don't, unless I'm mistaken) you can't easily add a subwoofer.

> What cables (yeah... I'm still afraid of the cables for no particular reason) would I need to complete this setup?

For the Edifiers+subwoofer?

It's not going to be entirely straightforward.

First you'll need some sort of RCA or headphone splitter at your source so that the subwoofer and the Edifiers are getting the same signal.

Except now there's a problem. When you turn the volume knob on the Edifiers, the subwoofer volume won't go up and down in unison with it. So you'll have to control volume at the source... on your TV, or your laptop, or whatever your source is.

> Would the home theater receiver still be beneficial in the short term?

Not with the Edifiers.

> What cables (yeah... I'm still afraid of the cables for no particular reason) would I need to complete this setup? At this point, I wouldn't mind buying the home theater you linked if it would be a better overall choice over the SMSL Q5 Pro/AD18.

For the home theater + Polk + subwoofer setup, you'd just need some speaker wire to connect the Polks. You can buy it by the spool or just pick up one of these for each of the Polks. Buying it by the spool is a lot cheaper if you have lots of speakers, or if you have long cable runs, but that's not an issue in your case so I'd probably go with the latter choice for convenience's sake.

You'd also need a cable to get audio from your source (is it a PC?) to the receiver. Digital (optical or coaxial) is best. Or you can just route everything over HDMI..... Computer----(HDMI)-->Receiver--->(HDMI)-->Monitor.

I got the Micca's along the Q5. I used Mediabridge cables to connect the speakers. It's more expensive than regular speaker wire but the quality it's great.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-12AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B01CYGMD4I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503073084&sr=8-4&keywords=mediabridge+speaker+wire
As stands I use a pair of old books and that works great for me ($1 usd solution hahaha)

Ah sorry I completely overlooked the monologue aspect, I've been going from the volcas to a mixer to get two of them running at once nicely. I meant to answer your original question and got off on a tangent.

So the Monologue is 1/4" mono, which you could go with the breakout 1 to two cable and leave the unused 1/4" out, or try this cable

I think you would be ok in either event. The problem comes from the "balanced" inputs on mixers and such not playing nicely with the headphone jacks.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F

This is exactly the cable you need to sum the tip and ring of the 3.5mm side to the tip of the 6.3mm side.

Edit: I see that you're abroad, not sure if this is available in your country from Amazon.

This one, from Amazon.
Hosa Cable CMP105 1/8 Inch TRS to 1/4 Inch TS Cable - 5 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F

A trim pot is a passive (it uses no power) module, like the "trim" module from the 2 Hp company, that just turns down the volume on a signal. If you chose to go that route, you should probably buy a cord with a 3.5mm head on one end and a 1/4" head on the other. Hosa makes several cords like this.

I believe the mention of TRRS is wrong here. TRRS are used with a jack that can be a speaker or a microphone...like on a cell phone. But on a computer, the headphone jack is usually only a stereo output (not an input too). So the 1/8-inch end of the cable needs to be TRS and the 1/4-inch end needs to be TS, like Bangs said.

Basically you need a 1/8 stereo (sometimes called 3.5 mm) to 1/4 mono cable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3F?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

The other guy is wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3F/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486418856&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hosa+cmp&dpPl=1&dpID=31YuIHAlO0L&ref=plSrch

You need this.

If you only hook up right or left you are missing 50% of the musical information. You need to sum them to mono.

This cable does the trick.

Use this to split the boompro's audio and mic connectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYZ2BT4/

and then if it doesn't reach, use any 3.5mm extension to connect the mic to your PC/soundcard/whatever https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-shielded-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7

herp

Just be sure it says "shielded" in the description. Like this one.

A shielded cable has a foil or copper braid surrounding the two inner conductors, usually red and black. A non-shielded cable (ok to use for headphones) just has three wires, often red, green, black.

My guess. Mic plug is mono and input in a stereo plug.

You can try getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-40634-Stereo-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

My guess with the other people being able to hear you in both sides is that most voice chat is mono.

Good luck!

You might need one of these adapters for your microphone to fix your sound issue. Best interview yet btw.

>Just to clarify, I am looking for DAC/amp that has the option of changing a single stereo input into a single mono output.

You are making it WAY WAY WAY to complicated.

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98/

6 bucks

Hi u/InfamousSea - I dug my old Audio Technica Pro 88 receiver (pictured here) out of the closet and saw that it has a mono output, not a TRS stereo. Your problem might be that your Rode SC4 TRS to TRRS adapter is only sending a single channel to the phone.

I used this Cables2Go mono to stereo adapter when I needed to plug the Pro 88 into a TRS stereo input and it worked fine.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you probably need a preamp. I recommend a Saramonic SmartRig II preamp for iPhones plus a 3.5mm mono to 1/4" mono adapter so you can plug your wireless receiver into it.

Hope this helpful and good luck!

This should do it:
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

Hi bunting - I plug simple lavs with 3.5mm plugs into cameras all the time. Works fine. Here I am with a lav mic (pulled off one of my wireless transmitters) and plugged directly into my Panasonic GH2 (please forgive my head cold):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slRrwUiMGIw

consumer lavs with 3.5mm jacks cost from [$5 for 2 throwaway Neewer lavs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIPQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005DJOIPQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link] up to [$18 for an Audio Technica ATR-3550] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002HJ9PTO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link].

You should also get a [$5.30 Stereo male to mono female adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000O7AW98&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Link]in case you run into a mono lav.

No need to rent an expensive mic and recorder.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

An inexpensive way to do this is with a [$58 AZDEN CAM-3 On-Camcorder Mini Audio Mixer] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006JPD1/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00006JPD1&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

The better way to do this is with three [$20 Bronstein low noise lavs] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZB9XY4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EZB9XY4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), three [$4 mono to stereo adapters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000O7AW98&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-2), three [$10 Rode 3.5mm to XLR adapters] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y021NA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000Y021NA&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a low noise premplifier/mixer that will get rid of the noise in your T3's preamps - such as the [$429 JuicedLink Riggy Assist RA333] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DXCKLI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008DXCKLI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

Without a separate preamp that disables your T3i's automatic gain control, your soundtrack is likely to have audible noise - especially when your interviewees are not speaking.

Good luck!

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

Most stereo 3.5mm jack to RCA Phono cables are easily split. You just pull them apart. They're only joined together by a thin part of the rubber. I'm pretty sure it's what they're designed for as I've been doing that for as long as I remember: same for speaker cable.

Get a three metre one to give you some slack. Amazon has them cheap or you can go cheaper if you just want to try it.

You need a 3.5mm to RCA cable (looks like http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Jack-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS)

Work out how much speaker cable you need and buy that (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fisual-Install-Profile-Speaker-Cable/dp/B002RQHH4M)

Then you can either spend a few dollerydoos on 4x banana plugs (http://www.amazon.co.uk/SODIAL-Plated-Banana-Speaker-Connectors/dp/B00K67XWMK) or insert the cable into the little holes on the speaker inputs and screw them down (depends on the speaker)

That makes sense, nothing will be detected because that USB plug will only power the headset.

With the Red and White connectors you will need something like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS

That will take the Audio out of your PC and into the headset.

Taking a shot in the dark here. Your monitor will accept HDMI input, but monitor audio is typically handled through a separate 3.5mm analog jack.

This freeview box is £22.99 and has HDMI and RCA outputs.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Freeview-Terrestrial-Switchover-Converter-REPLACEMENT-SILVER/dp/B00OW6V386/

It's possible that the box will allow you to split the audio signal from the video signal, but I can't be certain. You could use one of these cables to convert the RCA audio output to the necessary 3.5mm input on your monitor.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/


You could try asking the seller on Amazon. They seem to be answering technical questions for people. Just ask "Can I use HDMI for video and RCA for audio?"

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Freeview-Terrestrial-Switchover-Converter-REPLACEMENT/forum/Fx1GVWK37QDQA7T/-/1/ref=cm_cd_dp_aar_ql?_encoding=UTF8&asin=B00OW6V386&cdSort=best

If you have a 3.5mm audio out on your tv/monitor then you can use a standard 3.5mm to rca cable adapter. No need for a special adapter box.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1382278517&sr=1-1&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca

I use the same type of cable to hook my tv up to my sound system.

I think you need something like this.

There's no need to have your speakers on if you're listening through headphones but it's not like it would cause any harm either.

You need a 3.5mm to 1/4'' adapter if you have 3.5mm headphones and don't want to get different headphones. Like this one I think: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

This should work, but I would get something more fancy like this, because the little shits tend to break, or become loose over time.

This is a good idea. Use This.
You have the xbox audio into the adapter plugged into your computer's MIC port and then install Audacity to record the audio. You can then save it, but need THIS extension to save mp3s

On second thought, don't buy the Xbox Brand one for $40. Get a third party cable. It works just as well. You might need to get an adapter for audio depending on if it comes with it or not.

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.

Ah, okay. I think the "mini jack" output means you can just get something like this.

Optical is a better option, but since it's a digital output, you'd need a DAC to convert to analog for the amp. If you want to go that route, cheap ones are around $30, and the best you'll ever need is around $100.

You would use this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394029540&sr=8-1&keywords=stereo+to+rca+cable

Connect the stereo end to your source, and connect the RCA ends to the back of the Muse amp.

Then you would follow this diagram on how to wire it up:
http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png

Credit goes to /u/ZeosPantera for the diagram.

You would set the crossover on the back of the subwoofer amp to around 80 Hz. The specs on the Micca's state that they're good down to 60 Hz, but I don't know if I believe that. Listen to see if there's a hole in the bass to determine where to set the crossover. You want it to sound as seamless as possible.

The "AUX IN" ports are where you plug your phone. You will need a cable which has a connector for your phone and on the other end there is RCA connectors. If you have basic 3.5mm connector on the phone then you can buy 3.5mm RCA cable.

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1334943829&sr=1-2

$3 and free shipping. The red and white plug into the tape monitor output on your receiver and the 3.5mm goes into the mic jack on the computer.

This is what you'll need for audio:
http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C

And for video:
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40456-Value-Composite/dp/B0019MGIT0

I would suggest you get the Pi from somewhere else. It should be around $35 (I got mine from Newark.com)

you could just get a cable like this or this and use your computer's microphone port for recording. the quality of the audio and available sample-rate/bit-depth options will depend on how nice your computer's soundcard is. if you want to record each individual channel on your mixer (to allow the adjustment of levels and application of effects to specific tracks in post production) you will need a more advanced multi-channel audio interface. an iRig allows you to plug an instrument which has a 1/4" output into your iPhone's headphone jack, this wouldn't really help you as it only allows one channel and still leaves the analog to digital conversion to your computer's sound card. if you are looking for something better, explore the USB interfaces suggested in the other comments.

http://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393720185&sr=8-2&keywords=rca+to+speaker+cable

Man you have a fairly dysfunctional system in that a lot of the things meant to minimize the setup are broken. With that said. Some options I thought of are:

Option a:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JYB93G Cheapest DAC you can buy. $16
https://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Switcher-Toslink-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00PZKA5E6/ for switching between toslinks $14
https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ To connect the powered monitors to the subwoofer, you can use these with the splitters below.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x 2
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89IQS $10 connects from splitters to subwoofer.

That is the low cost version. You can replace the $16 dac with a micca Origin+ ($110 shipped) and then you'd also have a cost-efficient DAC/PReamp with a volume nob, and ability to switch between input sources and output sources easier. Would also increase audio quality by a bit if your input source isn't too good.

Want to add an equalizer, high pass filters, etc? Look into a Mini DSP 2 x 4. That should take care of those needs. But I don't think it would really be all that necessary. Your call, this is the cheapest way imo to do this.

Best of luck.

Hey, I can see why you are confused. But the solution is pretty easy. All of these wires are only carrying electrical signals for each channel, nothing special. So the way I see it, you have two options.


The easier option would be to buy something like this. The second and possibly cheaper route would be to buy a RCA cable (you may already have some of those lying around) and strip it like this. Just make sure you connect the speakers in phase. If you are not sure about that, this webpage has some simple audio based tests to ensure you have set your speakers up right.

Speaker wire. You push the little tabs and insert bare wire into the sockets.

It also depends on what's outputting the sound. You can get RCA to speaker wire cables.

I'll explain what I have today, but i'm hoping to swap it out for a full sonos connect:amp setup. Also i'm not sure how much detail you want, so i'll describe all of it.
 
I have in ceiling speakers in every room except:

1. the bathroom where I have a Sonos Play1.
   
2. the living room where I have a Marantz SR5008.
    
   The in-ceilings are hooked into a NuVo Concerto 8 zone audio amp. That provides both power and signal distribution.
    
   I have a different version of these baluns which allows for 2 different audio signals over a single cat5. I have one in the living room, the other in the central wiring closet (where the NuVo is).
   On the Living Room side, one red&white L/R pair is plugged into a Marantz source, the other red&white L/R pair is connected to a 3.5mm->analog adapter cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473619743&sr=8-6&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca .
    
   On the NuVo side, I have a Sonos Connect as one source, and the second pair from above (3.5mm cable) as a second source. The first pair is connected to an unpowered zone output.
    
   This allows me to plug a phone/laptop into the living room 3.5mm, send the signal back to the NuVo, and play wherever I want. If I want to also play in the living room (which i almost always do), I turn on the NuVo unpowered zone, turn on the Marantz, set to the "NuVo source" setting on the Marantz. The signal travels from the laptop to the NuVo then back to the Marantz. Yes thats taking the long way, but that way I can play the same song in every room of the house synchronized.
    
   re:Do these work over a switch: These particular ones do NOT, they require an end-to-end connection. If wiring is an issue, you could get a bluetooth receiver/transmitter. I've also got that but for a totally different purpose & location. I got a cheap one and regret it, as it often loses connection with the central wiring closet so I need to repair it.
    
   Hopefully that wasn't way more detail than you wanted.

Controller HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC7BMHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

EG STARTS 2x Arcade DIY Kit Parts... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7R7YW3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Easyget 4 Pcs/Lot 5V LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5Y8E2Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TecUnite LED Maple Garland LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7J1ANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pyle Marine Speakers - 4 Inch 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JF26LF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Car Interior Lights, CJRSLRB APP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DZQRZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LDKCOK USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DPQFZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have somebody QC this (perhaps from /r/audio):

Amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUSXEY/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2Fmq_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=RC1EHSN9BNGPF7QBEQWT&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e26ee127-5127-5fc0-a063-c5df25bf1331&pf_rd_i=537344

3.5mm to RCA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A7J1ANA&pd_rd_r=XAFTKMHGNWE0HHB4R052&pd_rd_w=BGEgf&pd_rd_wg=5XYHG&psc=1&refRID=XAFTKMHGNWE0HHB4R052

Speaker wire: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519759916&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker+wire

Just because something doesn't work with your particular system doesn't mean it's fair to say 'you'd need an adapter to get sound out of it'. I understand you use a Framemeister and it works for you. That's awesome, but it seems that you have a certain bias as a result.

Are you using wireless speakers? If the answer is no, then what kind of inputs does your receiver/speaker(s) have? If they're RCA inputs, then a simple cable is your solution Again, no adapter required.

Just in case it doesn't exist, you could hack together an equivalent setup with the following:

Connect the outputs on this switch to your amplifier with one of these cables.

Connect this Bluetooth receiver to one input on the switch with another of these cables.

Finally, connect a cable like this to the other input on the audio switch for the 3.5mm/non-Bluetooth devices. It's not as elegant as what you're looking for, but it should work.

Apologies if you've already thought of something like this and were just trying to avoid it!

The easiest way I can think of is a toslink to RCA converter and the a RCA to 3.5mm cable.

I would just run this from the subwoofer pre-out on the Pioneer into Source A left and right on the subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510648960&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+splitter+1+male+to+2+male

Hook up the speakers as you normally would to the Pioneer.

You probably need to go into the settings to get a full time signal to the subwoofer instead of just for surround sound.

Run the MCACC room correction process using the microphone that came with the Pioneer to get the best out of the speakers.

One could simply connect RCA directly from the speakers to the sub, but my powered monitors don't have an RCA connection, which is why I'm so confused.

Are you running 2 sets of wires (speakers) from the amp? If so, thats your issue. Run 1 set of wires from the amp to the subwoofers speaker level input and one set from the subwoofers speaker level output to the bookshelf speakers. All youre trying to do is pass sound through the subwoofers inputs. Should work fine after making that change.

Edit: Better yet, get yourself an RCA cable and run it from the subwoofer out on the receiver to the line in on the subwoofer. Then run the wires from the receivers front speakers out to the bookshelf speakers. Thats the cleanest setup. You can get a "Y" cable for that if you like, but only one side if the line in is needed. I use this one and like it a lot.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gotta buy the cable. Also you have to do two super easy mods to the PSW10 to make it usable (the port noise is insane otherwise). First put a sock in the port. Next if you gotta remove the metal guard off the back of the port.
Here's youtube vid on for taking off that guard. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKsMdcjh8KM
Also the cable... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s04

there's no need to use your phone as mic input to record messages. You can use your phone as output and record an input into audacity. all need is a simple 3.5mm male to male cable. Audacity can record the sound for you. What your trying to do now rerecord the audio, which will degrade the audio quality.

https://www.techhive.com/article/204664/how_to_record_streaming_audio.html

You can connect anything to that projector using a 3.5mm cable like this. Or 3.5mm to RCA like this using the '3.5mm Audio Out' port noted on the images.

Pretty much any projectors I've worked with have had that same output, so that's fairly easy to deal with. As far as which bluetooth speakers have an input that you could use, I'm not 100% sure, but you just need to find one with a 3.5mm or RCA input.

On the projector, you say you're university kids, check out your school's surplus store if they have one, older projectors are usually really easy to find there for decent deals as the school upgrades equipment.

Do the panels on your headphone cups click a lot? I also have the Plantronics BackBeat Pro 2's and they click so much when I move my head the slightest of degrees.

To answer your question, I would just use an amazon basic cable. Cable's will not affect the sound quality at all, maybe by like >.0001%.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73IN2?pf_rd_p=d1f45e03-8b73-4c9a-9beb-4819111bef9a&pf_rd_r=4WR04EXGWK435QEVWA3R

You would definitely need speaker wire (and wire stripper tool) to connect the Miccas to the amp, and then either an aux cable or an aux-to-rca Y-cable to connect the amp to your source (laptop, phone, etc.)

• Wire Stripper
  
• Speaker Wire
  
• Aux Cable
  
  Hope this helps
  

Get a 3.5mm to XLR cable and a 3.5mm connector/extender.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G

For you, I'd recommend getting:

1. this
   
   
2. this
   
   
3. this
   
   
   This is actually the setup I started off with alongside a Rode-NT1KIT and there was no noticeable audio difference between a 2i2 and an xlr to 3.5mm cable with phantom power in the middle.

This is all you need to play from your phone or computer. Remember to start with the volume all the way down so you don’t blast yourself.

Cable Matters (1/8 Inch) 3.5mm to XLR Cable (XLR to 3.5mm Cable) Male to Male 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dINZBbMG6KCEP

just this SPDIF cable

This FosPower (6 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_-SlKAbRZ5NEQQ connects the Chromecast to the optical input on the DAC-x6. Then you just plug the 598s into the DAC-x6. Note you’ll need a streaming source like Spotify or Tidal coming into the Chromecast. There likely is a way to make it work with a media server, but I haven’t looked into that. Note that you control the Chromecast from a phone or tablet, or likely from a Chrome browser. If you want to try a different op amp (amp rolling) in the DAC x-6, I’ll be glad to gift you with one. Feel free to ask questions if needed.

The cheapest I would go would be this Dayton bundle. If you can spend an extra $15 or so and make this same combo with the Dayton B652 Air speakers instead, that would be even better. Otherwise, you could also get the Dayton B452 Speakers with that same amp as the cheapest solution, but that 4-1/2" driver isn't going to deliver the lows like the 6-1/2" will, so really splurge for the larger size if you can. You likely also need a this cord if your TV has analog audio out. If it has Optical audio out, you will need this cable instead.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

SPDIF port for audio. You can buy an adapter fiberoptic cable that accepts the signal and can send it to a surround sound system. I think you can connect like a 5.1 surround sound system to your macbook pro this way.

If this is a headphone-out jack with optical capabilities (often found in premium laptops) you need a Mini TOSLINK to TOSLINK cable.

Edit:

• very easy way to test this. Maybe you have a optical mini jack adapter flying around
  
• looks like this
  
• when you connect it to the 3.5mm headphone output it will (if the SPDIF is working) flare up bright red
  
• Your OS will show a Digital Output Device SPDIF which you will have to select as standard output to make the external DAC receive all the audio data

Honestly I don't know of any simple solution that doesn't involve a mixer, which are a little expensive. You can get one of these and then buy some of these. Then plug your switch into one input, your phone into another, and plug your headphones into the output. Then I'm not sure about the microphone, but at least you can hear both sources

It depends on the amp. If it has a headphone out or aux out, yes. Some amps have a 1/4" headphone out, which would require an adapter for the typical headphone.

You're going to need a 1/8 inch (3.5 mm) to 1/4 inch adaptor, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501715668&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5+mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

The M50x seems to come with 3.5mm cables. The scarlett seems to have a 1/4 input for headphones on the right. Will I need an adapter? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAVOW00/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VMQDY5N961JZ

Just because someone produces doesn't mean that they can DJ, and vice versa. Everything in this subreddit pertains to you, except for the music theory because presumably you already know it.

As already stated use the sidebar, wiki, and search function. Almost every question you have has been answered twice already (I promise).

My quick opinions on what you should get:

• Controller: You want a mid-range controller. Pioneer DDJ-SR or Traktor S4 are the best ones for your budget.
  
• Software: Depends on your controller but definitely use the software it was designed for. Avoid VDJ, Djay, and others. Get Mixed in Key and Spek as well.
  
• Music: Subscribe to a record pool. I like DJcity.
  
• Headphones: You're good. Buy an adapter if you don't already have one.

You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?


If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.


IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.

The Equipment

Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!


Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.


Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.


USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.


Total: $67-$75

The Setup

1. Cable one goes from the rear headphone out of the PC to 2/3 on the mixer. Set this as the default device.
   
2. Cable two goes from the front headphone out of the PC to 4/5 on the mixer. Set the programs you want to output here, Discord Skype Curse TS3 Spotify etc.
   
3. The RCA to 3.5mm cable goes from the 2-Track Output to the Line In on your PC, the baby blue port.
   
4. Go to the Line In properties on Windows. Check off the "Listen to this device" box, and make it only audible through your DAC/AMP. If you don't have a DAC/AMP make it only audible through the front headphone out on your computer.

Looks like that interface has a stereo input, so you'd need to daisy chain and sync your POs in order to record them at the same time (aux cable from output of one to input of the other).

Then you'd connect a cable like the one linked below to your POs output (sorry on mobile can't see a better way to link), and plug the white jack into the left input on your interface and the red jack into right input.

That ought to do it, your interface seems pretty old but assuming you have the right drivers etc it should be fine.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Interface-Instrument-Amplifier/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

You might want one of these for recording into audio interfaces or plugging into certain sound systems: 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4” Mono Y-Cable

The device /u/pqu4d linked to has RCA connectors on the back, and comes with an adaptor cable that has a 3.5mm plug on the other end. Your speakers have a 3.5mm plug. You can't plug a plug into a plug, not with out a female/female adapter to go between.

This device is closer to what I think you're looking for. The silver part in the picture unplugs (it is a male/male adaptor) and the male 3.5mm plug from your speakers would plug into it. It has an internal battery and a micro USB jack for recharging it. It's also quite small.

If you did buy the device /u/pqu4d linked to, you would also need to purchase an adaptor like this.

This Amazon Basics Bluetooth Receiver is the same style as the one /u/pqu4d linked to, but it already has the correct style of 3.5mm jack (female) on the back and you could plug your 3.5mm plug directly into it. Both this unit and the one /u/pqu4d linked to use a DC power supply that plugs into the wall.

3.5mm and RCA jack adapter cables are common like this, Target and Walmart have them. You didn't indicate what you are coming out of for audio but it really doesn't matter with adapters. If it is an iPhone type port in your device these still work because the apple extra band in the plug stem doesn't matter for audio like this. second link is an optional cable different style is all.

​

r/https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFQNFSS/

​

r/https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/

Buy something like this and use your controller
https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG

If you want a wired connection a 3.5mm to RCA into the rear inputs would be fine. Something like this would be fine, just grab the length you need.

If you'd prefer something wireless, grab a Chromecast Audio. It only comes with a short 3.5mm cable so you'll need something like this for the receiver end.

USB is how your DAC connects to your computer.

Your DAC will have at least one of the following outputs:

• L/R coaxial RCA out
  
• 3.5 mm TRS stereo out
  
• 1/4" TRS stereo out
  
  (those three are all electrically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
  
  
• 3.5 mm TRS SPDIF out (analog)
  
• coaxial SPDIF out (analog)
  
  (those two are electrically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
  
  
• 3.5 mm optical SPDIF out
  
• TOSLINK optical SPDIF out
  
  (those two are optically compatible and can convert to each other with a socket adapter)
  
  
• HDMI audio out (rare)
  
  The electrical and optical SPDIF formats can be converted to each other using a cheap $20 adapter from a variety of Chinese sellers.
  
  Choose your DAC based in part on the inputs on your amplifier. The A-616 appears to take 2 channel analog stereo input, so presumably none of the digital options matter to you right now. But you may wish to consider buying a DAC with any digital output in case you add a modern amplifier with digital inputs or a more than two channel setup, or if you plan to do special things wiht gaming.
  
  In your case, a RCA to 3.5 mm cable will let you connect your computer to your amplifier. Your computer may also already have one or more of the digital outputs listed above for future use.
  
  The quality difference between a $1 DAC (USB or on-board) and a $10 DAC is massive. The difference between a $10 DAC and a $100 DAC... not as much. There's a small selection of $0.50-3 DAC chips that are repackaged onto most differently coloured DACs and sound cards ranging in price from $1 to $1000. Some people more than others listen with their eyes, so YMMV.

You could also get an [RCA splitter](Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (3ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V-Cqyb156FM6B) (those are super common and come in any length) plus two of [these](Monoprice 107146 3.5mm Mono Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069MLDUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z.Cqyb8ZMTS9G)!

OP this is technically doing something a little different from what the guy above suggested, but it should work great for your earmuffs, and will be a little more comfy to walk around with than two individual full length cables meeting at your phone.

Depending on the inputs on the back, you need either one of these:

RCA inputs on the back: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Dj-CDQR3-Speaker-Cable/dp/B004UOTA9E

"headphone" inputs on the back: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F

I’m not sure if the effects are stereo, but if you don’t care about going mono, you can use one of these: Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MWqIAbCJBXKEC

Edit: But yes, a 3.5 mm (1/8th) TRS to dual 1/4 TS Y cable would work. Just don’t forget to hard pan each of the channels on the recorder.

Ow that's very very cool.

How many band members? Then by all means, get.. 3 or 4 Sennheiser HD598SE's.
I do have to say something, I am absolutely not an expert on this at all. It's the very first time I've got a request like this before. So I am also learning.

From what I've learned so far, it might not be as easy to simply plug in 3/4 headphones into this splitter that I've found and have awesome sound for all of you.

Because there might not be enough power. Or their might be some interference depending on how it all works..
I really am not sure on this at all.. The idea I currently have should work. Your audio will go like this.

#1

PC ► (via USB cable) DAC ► (via RCA cable) AMP ► (via 6,3mm male to male cable) SPLITTER ► Headphones

I just am not entirely sure if this will work well. Audio is complicated..
I am absolutely not an expert.

---

#2

I also found this device which seems to have an Amplifier build in it. So you don't have to use the AMP at all, then you have 2 options, skip the external DAC completely and go directly from your PC audio (3,5mm jack) to the splitter (6,5mm jack).This way you use the motherboard it's on-board DAC to create the audio. It get's amplified by the device and puts out the sound to the headphones.

PC ► AMP Splitter box ► Headphones

---

#3

Or go from the PC to the external DAC and then go from the RCA connectors to the audio splitter. With this cable. Think that this is a bit cleaner in terms of audio..

PC ► DAC ► AMP Splitter box ► Headphones

---

Although I would probably try the first option above first, if that does not work sufficient, then try the the other 2 options. If that doesn't work..
Then you probably have to tell me and I will need to make a (non living) sacrifice to the audio gods.

^(which means that I have to ask head-fi what the hell we have to do!)

---

I think that all 3 options should work.. But I can't say for sure in all honesty.

PS. Yes I indeed drew a picture for you, no worry.. It's absolutely not a Picasso!
You're hopefully going to find it, if you read my whole rationale!

There's a solderless MIDI out mod for the Volca FM that is very reasonably priced: http://usbtri.be/usbtribe_volca.html#fmline. Preeeetty sure it will output MIDI clock but I'm not positive on that.

As for the audio, you just need a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 in TS cable like this.

I recommend getting a dedicated 1/8" Stereo to 1/4" Mono or dual 1/4" stereo cable. If you're running from the stereo main 1/8" out on the Boutique to a single 1/4" mono in its good to convert from stereo to mono (more details: http://sound.stackexchange.com/questions/25577/stereo-and-mono-cables-and-jacks-what-happens-when-you-cross-them ). And, I was using an adapter for a while myself, on the end of a normal instrument cable, so there was this big relatively heavy thing hanging off a single 1/8" jack (on a $400 box) that I began to get paranoid about breaking. Get something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-105-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3F with its nicely flexible cable and small, light 1/8" jack and never worry about that again.

Each Volca comes with a stereo 3.5mm cable. Plug one into the sync out of one into the sync in of the other. You'll then need a mixer to hook the headphone out to for each Volca.

Here's a cheap mixer, and you'll need one of these cables for the Bass, and one of these cables for the Sample.

A onespot polarity shifter, hosa stereo 3.5mm to mono TS, and a 2.1mm to 1.7 mm power jack barrel. All available on Amazon

uxcell 2.1 x 5.5mm Female to 4 x 1.7mm Male AC DC Power Connector Adapter Laptop 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EZDO400/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k5OkybV1G25X1

Truetone CYR Converter for One Spot Power Supply with Reverse Polarity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBG5QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y4OkybMV16QJE

Hosa CMP-105 1/4 inch TS to 3.5 mm TRS Mono Interconnect Cable, 5 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u4OkybB24R9P1

This is what you need to get audio going into your PC: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O3F/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hook the 1/4 plug into MB Output port and 1/8 plug into your computers Line In. This will allow audio to get to Ableton. From here you will need to Youtube some 'how to connect external hardware to Ableton'. You will be able to use Filters and record audio coming from MB. With USB you can only use it as a midi controller in Ableton.

Instead of getting an audio adapter for GoPro (which doesn't let you record cockpit sound), I recommend buying a digital voice recorder with LINE IN (I have this one) and a simple 1/8in to 1/4in audio adapter cable. You plug the recorder into the headset jack and let it record your intercom, while your camera records the ambient noise. You can mix the two and tune audio levels in post-production. It costs about the same as the GoPro cable you linked to but gives you better results.

(I basically stole the idea from here.

Just you your PC/laptop connector? If your PC is in a hard to reach place, you can get an extender cable like this and route the connector to some other easy to access place when you can plug in/out the headphones from.

The 598s don't really need an amp if you have a PC with decent onboard audio stuff. You can still benefit from a lower cost DAC/DAC+AMP setup.

Here you go

Been looking into the same stuff since mine isn't as clear when using USB. Anyways, you can get a splitter cable and an extension cable. From what I read, you'll need 2 extensions, 1 for mic and 1 for headphones. I got one that came with my old Steelseries headset, but I couldn't find any similar ones.

Good luck, let me know how it went!

I think this may be your cheapest option

Are they 3.5mm jack or USB + 3.5mm jack? If they only need 3.5mm then you can do something simple like this.

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-shielded-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7

If you could accept a $4.20 hardware solution, get this and this, and connect Red=>White and White=>Red. No soldering necessary.

If you have a cable length problem, 3.5mm audio extension cables are also quite cheap.

I really like it, the desk especially just need to tidy up those cables. Maybe buy some nice headphones like the ATH-M50x or HD598se? Or just one of these aux cable extensions (3.5 mm M/F extension cable) so you can tuck your earphones behind the desk

If your cable to your headphones isnt long enough, there are audio cable extenders you can purchase for a few bucks.

First result for audio cable extension on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-Female-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415412878&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+cable+extender


So yeah, it even lets you buy longer cables as well for what appears to be a few cents more!


PS - This is assuming you are using a 3.5mm audio headset/headphones.

Edit: I see someone else already beat me to posting a link to a similar cable, oh well.

Well... Why not just use some audio cables?

So, plug the microphone into PC #2, since that needs to have your microphone.

Plug in the outputs of PC 1 and PC 2 together using something like this plus this. Maybe this one would do it all in one go?

If you need longer cables, get an extension

Am I crazy? This'd work, right? As far as I know, audio cables don't have any directionality.

Starting my freshman year of college ;)

I'd keep you in my basement. If only dorms had basements.

It's actually less than $3, but I need this

In theory this cable should work.

You could always try buying a 2 male 1 female audio splitter. To make the cords that go into your computers longer you can buy female to male audio extenders for each side.

http://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B001NZVEAQ

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-13787-Female-Extension/dp/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376438079&sr=1-1&keywords=audio+extension+cable


Not sure how the sound quality will be but I would imagine this should work.

That's odd. I could've sworn Realtek was one of the ones who actually included this option. Go through everything again just to be sure. If you can't find it try googling your sound card model along with "swap left right" or "reverse stereo" or something like that.

If all else fails, it isn't expensive or difficult to extend the speaker cable. Just get one of these

It's shot. Get a new one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00007FGU7/ref=sr_1_1_olp?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1347500107&sr=1-1&keywords=3.5mm+extension&condition=new

No. I can't make that kind of guarantee for you that whatever I recommend will work.

You can go to amazon and find any IR cable with a 3.5mm phone jack. They are almost all mono (TS) so you will most likely need an adaptor like this, to turn it into a stereo connection. If you look at similar adapters you'll see many of them have a hexagonal shape to the plastic, those won't fit.

I wouldn't recommend that you buy a cable with more than two IRLED's. If you need more than two IRLED's then you need to look at something pricier.

Could you use a cable or plug to combine the incoming sound to mono?

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40634-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

You could use an adapter like this to make the audio mono in both ears.

This?

Nothing on that page would do what you really want.

The things that are labeled "stereo to mono" imply that they are intended to mix a stereo signal into a mono signal. Unless they have some internal resistors (like that home made cable -- which they certainly do not have) then they would simply short the left and right outputs together to connect them to the mono side. And as mentioned it's not really good to short outputs together in general. But even it were OK to short the outputs together it still wouldn't work because the mono side of those adapters will only connect to the tip of a plug. So you'd only get the mono mix in one side of your headphones.

Those "stereo to mono" are really meant to take a mono output and send it two both sides of a stereo input. For example, to send a mono source to both sides of a stereo recorder.

OK (just in case anyone gets any bright ideas), you could connect one of these to the headphone output. Then plug one of these into the first adaptor. Then plug the headphones into the second adapter. That would short (kind of mix) both sides of the output to both sides of the headphones. But don't do that! Because it does short the outputs together and they aren't meant to be shorted together that way. I only mentioned it in case someone saw some potential there and wanted to give ti a go.

Might need this to get the sound from the RCA connectors into the 2.1 systems' 3.5 jack unless there is a HDMI to HDMI + 3.5 jack unit available.

You can't do this with an adapter. You need at minimum some kind of amplifier. Easiest is to hide the music center and connect pc speaker out to it, going into Aux. This cable will probably fit.

What cables do the speakers have?

According to the mobo manual you have;


>6 x audio jacks(Center/Subwoofer Speaker Out/Rear Speaker Out/Side Speaker Out/Line In/Line Out/Microphone

So for the sub you need this cable and put it into the orange slot.

And then the normal speakers go into the Grey if you want side speakers, Black for rear, Green for front :)

edit-

Opps, sorry. Didn't see the pic properly. Those are speaker outs. So the speakers can connect in there.

What type of input goes into the sub?

yes, you can take the headphone output of the TV and hook it up to the speakers with this kind of a cable:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/

The only outputs is can find on the tv is the Optical/toslink and headphone out. Your speaker system does not have optical but you can use a 3.5mm male jack to male jack cable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meter-3-5mm/dp/B000Q6LT26/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1458646745&sr=1-5

or a male jack to male rca connector: http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Jack-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1458646745&sr=1-9

but it will never be true 5.1, it seems by the speaker inputs that a jack to jack connector would be used as a 6ch input? i'm guessing it should be inserted into the green input.

edit: completely forgot about HDMI audio, but your speakers does not support this either.

This standard cable looks like it should fit, could it work?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B000Q6LSVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420940372&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

Well luckily it does seem one pair of the RCA audio input does link with the PC video inputs: https://i.imgur.com/PumIxDU.png?1

However since it's RCA input, you'll need something like this to connect the HDMI to DVI/VGA + audio out adapter to it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Phono-Stereo-Audio-Cable-black/dp/B000Q6LSVS

That's assuming you use an adapter like this: https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/70uukv/chromecast_to_nonsmart_tv/dn7mq08/

Noob here, people at r/pcmasterrace told me to come here

I have been using a Cambridge Audio Azur 540r with the two included speakers in stereo for a while now, and I want to add a center speaker (also adding a subwoofer and maybe two rear speakers later for 5.1 with sub). I wanted to get somebody to check my working before I buy so I know everything is right

Here is the manual for my motherboard (See page 21)

Here is the manual for my amp (See pages 3, 4 and 6)

By my understanding, to achieve 5.1 with a subwoofer I would need

• 3.5mm to 2 RCA cable like this from the headphone port on my motherboard (green) to the L and R ports of the 6.1 direct in space on my amp for the front two speakers, I already have one of these set up
  
• Another 3.5mm to 2 RCA to go from Center/Subwoofer port on my motherboard (orange) to the Cen and SW ports of the 6.1 direct in space for the center speaker and subwoofer
  
• Another 3.5mm to 2 RCA to go from the Rear Speaker Out (Black) on my motherboard to the SL (Surround left) and SR (Surround right) ports of the 6.1 direct in space for the surround left and surround right speakers
  
  Then I would simply wire the speakers to the output ports, with the subwoofer in the SW port of the 6.1 preamp out space
  
  Am I right in this? Don't want to buy cables and route them to be wrong.
  
  Also, if this is what I will in fact need, I would rather buy one cable that has all the connectors I need instead of buying multiple. Ideally I would like something that has three 3.5mm jacks (L and R, Sub and Cen, SL and SR from motherboard) on one end and the six RCA jacks (L, R, Sub, Cen, SL, SR into the amp) as opposed to having three copies of the cable linked above. I can't seem to find any online so would it be better if I just did it with the three cables instead?

I'd guess that your headphone jack adapter is mono, not stereo, which would explain the sound coming out of only one side.

Luckily a stereo adapter shouldn't be too hard to get, something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.ca/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

Yup! Everything else should be in the box for you.

Your headphones will require a 3.5 to 1/4 converter like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

There are other ones on amazon, but this was the first to show for example.

you're going to need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

You should get studio headphones(you can also use anything else but those give the best sound imo), then you need one of these https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY , then you plug your headphone jack into that thing, and plug that into your amp. Your amp probably has an input where it says "PHONE" or "HEADPHONE". You plug it in there, turn your volume up and start jamming.

I just use a a standard 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter like this:https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY and it works fine.

I use something like this or the opposite of that 1/4" to 3.5mm depending on which cables im using at the time.

I use the no_cable patch and it works fine. USB cables may perform better, but ive never tried, and the cables I use work fine for practicing in RS and goofing off in session mode.

yea, I looked at the picture too. Just saw, tho, that it says "line 1" at the first input, and the stackexchange link I posted the guy said that most interfaces can deal with both line and mic level inputs.

So I think just take one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-mm-5FT-Stereo-Male-to-Male-M-M-Jack-Audio-Cord-Cable-PC-MP3-Adapter-/220929430795?hash=item33706b950b:g:6FgAAOxypthRxBlj

and one of these: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

and connect your amp's headphone out to the line1 input (the input looks unusual cos it takes both XLR and 7mm jacks, just plug the jack into the hole in the middle ^(THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!).

if you want/have to try the stereo thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Female-to-2-Male-Headphone-Mic-Audio-Y-Splitter-Cable-/371032023866 get this and 2 of the adapters (or a split thingy with 7mm jacks) and connect your amp's headphone out to both inputs - then you'll have one channel (of the 2 stereo channels) in each input, which you can then either record as one stereo track or 2 mono tracks in Cubase .

But definitely try to connect the headphone out to your PC/sound card's line in (cutting out the behringer) - if you like the sound that's way easier.

I'm not looking for headphones, but I don't feel like this deserves its own thread. I want to plug in my Sennheiser Momentum IEMs into my Magni 2 because I want to use them to listen to music on my PC and the cable doesn't reach my computer. Plus I like the volume dial.

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

Here is the mobile version of your link

Optical cable and HDMI will sound the same. Sounds like you already have it hooked it?

I use one of these to hook my computer up to my receiver + a double RCA male cord:
https://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0016LC5VY&pd_rd_r=GPABZJ56JRCGHDBV0GYH&pd_rd_w=CGZVZ&pd_rd_wg=GixTj&psc=1&refRID=GPABZJ56JRCGHDBV0GYH

Left and right audio cables connect to something like this and that goes to my monitors audio input or any other audio device

This is possible, but you'll only get one channel of sound for both inputs, so you'll hear game sound in one ear and chat in the other. You'll need one of these and two of these. After you get those, connect the male 3.5mm ends to the sources, and then the red or white wires to the female 3.5mm adapter. Once that's done, you can plug in your headphones into the female 3.5mm jack and enjoy.

Yes, they will definitely sound better than your Logitech speakers! I have one that I use in mono in my bedroom and it's very pleasant with a lot of headroom and good bass. Just remember not to put them too close to the wall behind them. Please post as to whether you like them! Also, you can probably return them.

You also should just use RCA to TRS cables since it's not balanced anyway. You should also think about adding an RCA (female) to 3.5mm cable (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY) so you (or a friend...this sounds like a college setup?) can easily hook up a phone or mp3 player without having to mess with the back of the speakers.

I should also mention that

• DVI and HDMI are the same video signal, DVI can carry audio, but it's rarely used. This is why DVI to HDMI adapters are so easy, and cause no loss in quality.
  
• Additionally, DVI can contain a VGA signal in it, most computers will typically do this. Thus most DVI to VGA adapters are doing this, since actually converting a digital DVI/HDMI signal to analog VGA requires an expensive adapter. This means that HDMI to DVI to VGA will not work.
  
• Component is an analog signal that is similiar to VGA, but is missing a part, which is easily figured out by output device. Thus, Component to VGA, is fairly easy and cheap.
  
• Don't forget that you need to get audio from all these devices as well. This and This Would allow you to use a generic pair of headphones for almost any device.

Yep. Some models of AT TT'S come with an RCA to 3.5 adapter to hook up to a computer but if yours didn't you will need this.

http://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415666025&sr=8-3&keywords=Rca++female+to+3.5+male

one of these and one of these That should do it.

You will Need either of these setups

Option A:

http://www.amazon.com/NEW-CONVERTER-S-VIDEO-CABLE-ADAPTER/dp/B000S675JU/ref=pd_sim_23_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=31L2CY0W4LL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RNJRTTWNSY9VQBGZJ3Q

http://www.amazon.com/Hometheatre-Female-Splitter-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=pd_sim_23_32?ie=UTF8&dpID=31fRFCYMRCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0C14B20DERSC4CV603A3

Option B (not recommended):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I53ZX2

Note: both of these methods go without use of a switchbox.

Use this and the other link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016LC5VY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_1O2fvb0W5WP51 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_iQ2fvb0JR3BP7 Try not to buy from Chinese sellers it could take 1 month to get there

I looked into the audio adapter, and apparently this is the best option. Will I need to buy this cable to connect to my speaker system? Thanks.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE COAXIAL/RF. If you do, the internet will hate you.

Here's what you need to get:

Video Cable
http://www.amazon.com/Third-Party-Genesis-AV-Cable/dp/B004H7TX0A/

Audio Cable
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/

Plug the video cable into the back, plug the audio cable into the headphone jack. Combine for best results. In a nutshell, the headphone jack has stereo sound output, the rear output is mono.

You CAN get your system modded to output RCA through the rear, and you can also have it modded to output S-Video, but I hear it can be costly.

Well... 3.5mm is the same signal as RCA, so you could use that same exact switch with a couple of cheap plug adapters like this:

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Splitter-Cable/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1302122503&sr=1-2


or if you want a switch designed with RCA in mind you can do that too:

http://www.amazon.com/RCA-DT902AV-2-Way-V-Switcher/dp/tech-data/B0014KOAD8

in fact, it would be cheaper for the OP to pick up one of those RCA splitters and adapt it to 3.5mm then even the original 3.5mm switch I linked to.

As long as the TT included an RCA cable, no. But you will probably need another rca cable to connect to your speakers.

This one if you are connecting to red and white inputs
http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-PREMIUM-6-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B001VIYYCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422382192&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+cable&pebp=1422382204833&peasin=B001VIYYCK

This one if you are connecting to a 3.5mm jack

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422382231&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+cable+to+3.5&pebp=1422382234623&peasin=B0016LFN2C

Okay so, tell me if this shopping cart looks good.

• the logitech speakers I mentioned above (already own them, so not really part of the shopping cart)
  
  -http://store.uturnaudio.com/products/orbit-basic-turntable
  
  -http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422382260&sr=8-2&keywords=pre-amp
  (Pre-Amp)
  
  -http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422382231&sr=8-1&keywords=rca+cable+to+3.5&pebp=1422382234623&peasin=B0016LFN2C
  (RCA cables)
  
  Everything listed there would allow me to listen to my records?
  
  

Hey, I currently have my dad's old mobilepre usb and was wondering if i could hook it up to a schiit magni 2 using one of these.

Would it be possible?

I use the CD input and connected my iPod using something like this. I also tried on the VCR connection and the "mono" connection (not sure what that is).

I tried turning the tape monitor loop on and off and that didn't change anything.

I don't know of a mute option on the receiver, but if it was muted wouldn't that also mute the center and back channels?

I'll ask my friend this evening if he ever had any issues with it.

EDIT: here is a link to the manual if that helps at all

male 3.5 to male rca splitter.

http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C

Also if the plug has a ground on it you'll want to get a groundless adapter otherwise you might encounter some interference (a hum).

Sure. You'll just need a 3.5mm to RCA cable. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0016LFN2C/

So that amp is part of that rare breed that use RCA jacks for speaker connections instead of standard bare speaker wire. Easiest way to solve this would be to use a cable like this that has bare wire on one end and RCA on the other.

As for the phono preamp, the biggest thing is to not use two phono preamps. If you plug the Denon into the phono input on the amp, disable the Denon's preamp. Turn it back on if you plug it into another input on the amp. You may want to play around with this and figure out which preamp sounds better.

Probably the Black RCA Jacks. The Red & White are normally for components. Traditionally speaker cables are Red & Black. You can use any small speaker but you'll need RCA to bare wire cables.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U46G8I

Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I

RCA, not banana. Use something like this http://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405627695&sr=1-1

I don't see any significant reason why you shouldn't be able to use the Polk T15 speakers to substitute for the Logitech sides.

My only questions would be relative efficiency and crossover frequency. Will the Polk replacements be louder (or softer) than the original Logitech sides (relative to the subwoofer) And will the sides to subwoofer crossover frequency be compatible with the low-end response of the Polk sides? But these may be minor issues and IMHO it would be worth the experiment.

Yes you can use any RCA audio cable and chop off one end to terminate to the Polk speakers. But you might get better performance from a slightly more beefy cable made for passive speaker connections. Perhaps something like:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U46G8I

I have a Jolida tube amp and a pair of Heresy iii speakers lately been obsessing over what subwoofer to add. Because both my wife and I hate big subwoofer boxes sticking out in the room I have been looking at slim models and ones that are reviewed well and go below 30HZ an awful small list.

The one I like PSB Subseries 150 has one LFE input and I already have a Y cable from an old Home Theater setup but the Jolida has no line output at all!

Would something like this work at all?

Speaker wire to rca:

https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ref=pd_sim_23_1/139-9690522-5875109?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003U46G8I&pd_rd_r=483a352f-3166-11e9-9bfd-ad0a97d0ca89&pd_rd_w=caKuE&pd_rd_wg=S3ELR&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=ZCRMZJ2TXPHXHM34QW8A&psc=1&refRID=ZCRMZJ2TXPHXHM34QW8A

Cables like this

Keep in mind, receivers that used these RCA plugs for the speakers generally didn't output much power, so if you have larger power hungry speakers, it might not sound good.

Only one jack usually means its a Mono setup as well. I have seen a few "console" stereos that have one internal speaker and you plug a 2nd speaker in for Stereo, but that's not terribly common.

Thanks for the reply!

After reading your comment and the manual, I had created this configuration: Right speaker plugged into right outputs of channel A on receiver, cable from left outputs of channel A on receiver plugged into Right inputs on sub , cable running from left inputs on sub to left speaker. However, this resulted in the left speaker not playing sound, and while the sub worked, it seemed very weak (all cables are speaker cables, no RCA). Did I do this right? I was confused by your comment and the manual because there are nothing is labeled as "output" on the back of the sub, so i didn't see how anything of those would send sound to the second speaker.

Here are the parts of the manual that seem relevant but I don't see how these options would work:

> If your amplifier only has one set of outputs you may
connect your amplifier to your speakers as normal and
run an additional set of cables from your speakers to the
subwoofer’s 'Speaker Level Input' binding posts.

How would I run cables from speakers to subs when there are no outputs on the speakers and the inputs are already taken up by the cable coming from the receiver?

> It is also possible to connect the left and right outputs of
your amp to the left and right 'Speaker Level Input' of the
subwoofer and run additional cables from your subwoofer
to the speakers.

This is what I described above, which didn't work. Unless I put 2 cables into each red/black terminal, I don't see how this works either.

What am I missing?

EDIT: Or should I buy something like this, which would free up the speaker level inputs on the sub to run to my speakers?

Ok, this is what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/

You wire up the speaker cable to a pair of bookshelf speakers, and you plug the RCA jacks into the back your subwoofer.

Here are some decent cheap bookshelf speakers to replace your satellites:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-T15-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B002RJLHB8/

Help With Setup Please

Hey there, hoping this would be a good place to ask for help with my setup. I just recently got a used Klipsch subwoofer. The line-in is 1 L/R rca input. I also have a pair of desktop speakers with speaker wire inputs on the back, and a turntable with a rca output. Not if I were to buy speaker wire with rca male ends ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U46G8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_erLPDbF4WPEYS ) and this AV splitter ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767DRZF5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DxLPDbX72ZRSH ) would I then be able to play the audio from the turntable to the speakers and subwoofer? If not, then how?

IEC 18 AWG 6' Speaker Wire Pair with RCA Males - Black/Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U46G8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rVWMDb15G45FB

Sharper image probably just used rcas instead of speaker connectors to make the connections easier.

You can use something like this, no work required: https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I

or

You can solder something like this on to some regular speaker wire: https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Lizard-Audio-Adapter-Connector/dp/B01INFY4UK/ref=sr_1_54?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1482734318&sr=1-54

Sorry for the delay.. I forgot to reply.

I'm sure you already got the adapter and cable. The adapter is perfect and the cable might be OK. I would look for one that is only for audio (red and white connectors only, not the yellow video cable.) This one would be good - https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483627337&sr=8-4&keywords=rca+audio+to+3.5mm

With your budget in mind I highly recommend the $180 U-Turn Orbit Basic turntable. I have one that I got with an upgraded cartridge (Grado Black) and it is a superb table. https://uturnaudio.com/collections/all

Speakers... hmmm... That's tougher. Used ones on Craiglist can be great. Just be sure that the foam surrounds are in good shape (this is the foam ring around each driver) and check some online reviews. For new speakers, I think these look like a great option for the price - https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-R-14M-Reference-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00MGQAH2M/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1483627753&sr=1-1&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&refinements=p_89%3AKlipsch

I think I've found a solution. I can use this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-4PETHHA-Extractor-Converter-Digital/dp/B00LPHJEAE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483711838&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor+3.5mm
To extract the audio and then use this: https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483711884&sr=8-7&keywords=3.5mm+male+to+rca+male
To send that audio to the speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A7J1ANA&pd_rd_r=WHQ3NBYMR83PW6SXJF2G&pd_rd_w=4au9K&pd_rd_wg=Ovnm1&psc=1&refRID=WHQ3NBYMR83PW6SXJF2G thats what I'm using and plugging it into the audio in.

You would need a cable like this between the computer and amp. Not sure about those speakers though. You'll probably have to do some cutting and splicing.

http://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414873611&sr=1-12

One of these will do the job https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface-Software/dp/B0023BYDHK/ and a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/

You need an adapter to 3.5mm jack (also known as minijack).

I'm not sure if the AT-LP60 has a cable attached permanently or not, if so you can use this cable: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Right-Audio-Female-Adapter/dp/B003LVDWOQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-7&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm otherwise you can use any regular 3.5mm to rca cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-3-5mm-Audio-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00A7J1ANA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

If the speakers have a permanently attached 3.5mm jack cable, then if the AT-LP60 cable is detachable you need this cable: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01KC6BEZQ/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122433&sr=8-24&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm or if it isn't, this one https://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-inches-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B0009JFF7A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497122582&sr=8-1&keywords=female+rca+to+female+3.5mm.

Another option even is getting two connectors like this and a regular rca to 3.5mm cable and you should end up with the same thing functionally, I'd personally go with this option.

Oh btw Monoprice.com is great for getting stuff like this, cheap and good quality.

Yeah best bet and still pretty cheap is to go to good will and get a stereo deck cassette deck, they usually are only 5 to 10 and get a cheap wire on Amazon thats a headphone jack to AV. Here's one for 6 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A7J1ANA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519364428&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3.5+to+av&dpPl=1&dpID=51hPVy4zynL&ref=plSrch

Plug the 3.5 in your phone the other end in the cassete deck and it'll Probably sound perfect

> It is possible for you to burn up the inputs on an amplifier if you crank it too much. If it is set as amplifier, it is like any

It's a line level output, I don't think there's anything wrong with the way the speakers are hooked up...

I just want to know if it's fine how it is or if its better to get a cable like this https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-RCA-Y-Adapter-Feet/dp/B00KCQSW3E so it isn't running off just one channel.

I currently have a Marantz NR1403 receiver with two ELAC B6 Debut speakers. I'm looking to add an ELAC S10 Debut subwoofer and an ELAC C5 Debut center speaker. My two questions are this: will the receiver supply enough power for all of this and is this type of cable the correct cable for connecting the sub to the receiver?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KCQSW3E/ref=pd_aw_sims_4?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Yup.You have a subwoofer preout.

You will want one of these.Doesnt have to be this particular brand,just the same cable.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCQSW3E/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/190-6459732-9637742?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=15DJ9V2CN0DGMRSH62X8&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_i=B004EBX5GW

A simple 3.5mm TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable is all you need. Nothing fancy, just make sure it doesn't look like crap. This one would work.

would this work?

Is this what you are looking for?

edit: Here is one that isn't an add on item.

AmazonBasics 3.5 mm Male to Male Stereo Audio Cable, 2 Feet, 0.6 Meters

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TNbHDbMP1ZRJ3

It’s not as short as you want but the tips are very slim.

That's a really great idea, actually! I hadn't considered that Windows could even do that. So I could do it with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2?
When you raise and lower Alexa's volume on the Dot does it still adjust her individual gain independent of the PC volume?

For the pc audio, the cheapest way I can think of is to buy a male to male audio cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=asc_df_B00NO73IN25082899/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00NO73IN2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167122786755&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2059792589148502649&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026848&hvtargid=pla-284071178341 Something like this) and plug one into the gaming pc's audio out on the back of the motherboard and one to the audio in on the streaming pc's motherboard.
As for the head set situation, I dont really see how the cables would plug in (reply to me later in more detail how these work) but I think you could just buy some audio cable splitters and plug one into each pc, and if worse come to worse, have your headset connected to your gaming pc and call your stream pc on discord or skype. Hope this helps!

I am pretty sure this could be done if your radio at work has a 3.5mm auxiliary input. All you do is use a 3.5mm male to male cable and connect one end in the S9 and the other in the auxiliary input of the radio at work. Then the phone will just use the cable as the FM antenna and instead of the sound outputting in your earbuds it would output in the aux input of the work radio. I have never tried this but pretty sure it would work.

​

Use a cable like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73IN2

​

​

You would run an auxiliary cord from the Phones/Output there into your Computer's Line In - it looks like a 3.5mm, which is likely what your Computer's Line In takes, but you probably want to confirm that on both accounts.

If that was the case then something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73IN2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=auxiliary&qid=1574900948&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1

If that headphone jack is larger, like a 1/4" size you would probably need an adaptor as well, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNFGH61/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07QNFGH61&pd_rd_w=MBuYM&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=k6ok6&pf_rd_r=E7CDMFPXWT2EM38G3WJ7&pd_rd_r=c68b423e-2c47-4d87-b86e-6fae7abd1548&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTjNKTVVOTjFIMURNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTQ5OTYzMThEVVdORU9TVUw4TCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDgzNzQzMVdWNk1ESVI1NjVSNSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I'm assuming a few things there, but that's definitely a start!

They worked fine for a time, but then the cable that came with it was accidentally cut, and when i found out they went out of business i kinda gave up on them for a little while.

Recently i bought 2 Stereo cables.... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73IN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... and a Y splitter. To see if i could get them to work. And then I ran into this issue.

Do you have any suggestions on cables for either option?

If you are using the aux in, just add a splitter before that and route one to the sound bar and one to the drums.
one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MUY1MFFS-Female-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B0081ZBNI4

two of these. one to sound bar, one to drums
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NO73Q84/

If you are using the optical in:
you can split that as well with an optical to analogue DAC. Then split it. But you need to recalibrate.

You just need a cable. Not sure if they come with it. You can get one for $5 so you might want to grab one just in case.

No, but it didn't degrade it either. This is an AmazonBasics 8ft. cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00NO73Q84/

I'm too much of a moron to not tug cables, so having a long cable is a blessing. Plus it reaches all the way to the back of my PC into my SoundBlaster.

Stick to discord assuming you only want to be talking with your friends, but if you want the actual audio from Switch mic n game then you need a headphone input splitter -
https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-Headset-Splitter-3-5mm-Adapter/dp/B07569QKQQ/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

• no idea if the Switch will still detect the mic/headphone but at least that cable splitter does have mic/headphone on both
  
  Then a cable like this to the computer mic input(or to your portable capture card if it has mic input) - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

shouldn't be any difference between the two jacks.

as for the audio cord between the two, anything will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

Here is the cable use for mine, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

It's works very well and comes in many sizes. It feels high quality to.

If your phone has a headphone port,

a simple 3.5mm stereo to 3.5mm stereo patch cable

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

ok this is what i'm using.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Stereo-Audio-Cable-Meters/dp/B00NO73Q84?ref=fsclp_pb_dp_2

​

and still no sound.

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

I have a cable running from the Yeti monitor output to my streaming PC mic input.

Funny, I'm having a different issue with my Z906's right now that I just posted :D

Anyway, before my current issue, I was experiencing this as well. I tried a few different things, but I'm not exactly sure which ended up setting it right, so YMMV.

Are you using the 3.5mm (analog in your post) cable that came in the box? That one gave me some grief so I bought three AmazonBasics 3.5mm cables and they did wonders.

Dumb question potentially, but since you didn't specify: did you configure the speakers in Playback Devices? Potential fix there.

Last question, another potentially dumb one. Did you set your speakers to be the Default Device? I have to switch back and forth between headphones and speakers and lose it occasionally before I realize I forgot to.

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73Q84/

ok so. mic comes with xlr to xlr. plug that to



neewer 48v https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014H8AWGC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3A00RPL943XFO


to

preamp https://www.amazon.com/ART-TubeMP-Tube-Microphone-Preamp/dp/B0002GZZNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485455414&sr=8-1&keywords=ART+Tube+Preamps


preamp to xlr / 3.5mm :https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-5mm-Inch-Feet/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485456129&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+xlr



to 3.5 mm female to two female : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFPYYCG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2JSBUBRVPP4SX

both 3.5mm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EA77952/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Y2JY7NYB2QUH


to devices? Like that?

On the audio note, one of these will probably do, but I don't know if you'll have any quality loss or additional noise because of it. But that cable will plug right into the input on the side of the Zoom

For your EU question, that's surprising because they have a drop down right on the product page where you can select a European AC adapter.

For the JBLs, yes, you purchase 2. For the cable, you need to split 3.5mm into two, then buy two of these. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-5mm-Inch-Feet/dp/B00QMITC7G?th=1 note that this might not be the best price, it was the first result on Amazon for me.

As for noise, some can't even hear it. I'm not sure how good your critical listening skills are.

Running an AUX/Line Level signal (aka one from a phone/laptop) into a mic input isn't best SOP, but it is doable - you'll want a cable like this - just be careful not to have the output on the laptop or any of the volume controls on the PA turned up too loud or you'll damage the system.

Can you link the details of the PA/manual you're using please, there may be a better solution.

Will this cable work with my google chromecast? I may want to use both mono and stereo.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G

Actually, just for good measure, here's the cable I use between my phone and the H6:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Ok, I have two harbinger v2115 speakers(https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2115-multipurpose-loudspeaker/), 1 v2215 speaker (https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2215-multipurpose-loudspeaker-15-inch/). I am using this 3.5mm->xlr cable (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G) and these xlr cables to connect from the output of one speaker to the input of another (https://www.amazon.com/MCSproaudio-XLR-CABLE-25FT-Microphone/dp/B00O5EKZ9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=4J81770V8E55&keywords=xlr+cable&qid=1556327488&s=gateway&sprefix=xlr&sr=8-11)

True. I've been using a h1 zoom recorder i have for a mic that i didn't purchase for pc voip(but it works great). If didn't have that i would use this mic with this to keep under 200.

there are a few ways depending on what recorder you're using; lets break down the 2 options

Option 1-
The H1 Route - http://amzn.to/2fQdkCW ($91)
XLR to TRS 3.5 cable - http://amzn.to/2gLdfoC ($10)

This route is pretty simple, the cable will connect to the sound board via XLR, join that to the 3.5 entry of the zoom, record, keep track of levels, do a sound check from the mic they'll be using to see if it's connected, this path will cost you $101

Option 2-
The H4 Route - http://amzn.to/2gNcB7T ($189)
XLR male to female - http://amzn.to/2fQgmY0 ($7)

Simple as well, connect xlr cable from DJ's board to your recorder; the h4 allows greater control of levels and organization.

this will cost you $196.

It's pretty simple, definitely get there early, talk to the DJ and dj's are always happy to walk you through it (at least the one's i've worked with)

If you want to see more of our gear, check us out at www.indiemarchfilm.media

Hope this helps!

Thanks a ton for the reply, I'm definitely looking into Craig/DC. Quick (newbie) question, what is the advantage of the dual XLR cable over just the single input one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMITC7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if this is the right sub, but maybe you could find an optical to aux cable or converter. Here is Amazon's choice for that assuming you have something to connect the aux to.

FosPower (1.8M / 6FT) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GhEtDbHNDFHZS

The new SMSL AD18 has two optical inputs, one of them is 3.5mm style that you need an adapter, I will link at the bottom.
 
An additional option that you may consider, put a SoundBlaster Recon 3D or SoundBlaster Z sound card in your PC. it has an optical input and an output, and can pass your PS4 through to the DAC/AMP, as well as mix PS4 and PC sound to play both simultaneously. I use this so I can use PC to watch netflix/twitch or play music while I game on xbox.
 
www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWV62 for toslink to mini toslink if you want a specific cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B0002MQGRM if you want to use the adapter and a regular optical cable
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY96MKC SMSL AD18 DAC AMP

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-0DR8F-00DR8F-Creative-Labs-Sound-Blaster-SB1350-Recon3D-5-1-THX-Sound-Card/381776420498

Do you think this would work ?
https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487368666&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+to+aux

If this is correct, shouldn't this cable work?


https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=pd_sim_504_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00T8HWV62&pd_rd_r=210742b6-e01c-11e8-8ab1-ed751b73ebab&pd_rd_w=mQPg0&pd_rd_wg=AHs8E&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=K6RNSBZ80RRGNHSK1HSK&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=K6RNSBZ80RRGNHSK1HSK

This one? https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=44_567&item_id=133312

Plus one of these cables?

https://www.amazon.ca/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62


I would rather not get a shield if this can do it for 1/3rd the price

No but I did look online and I found one that plugs into a 3.5mm jack https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Toslink-Digital-Connectors-Strain-Relief/dp/B00T8HWV62/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503454129&sr=8-4&keywords=optical+input+cable

Looks like this should do the trick!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MFM5CbEW68TS0 like this?

For budget:
(All can be bought on amazon)

Mic:

Shure pga48,
Or
Shure sm58.

Pre-Amp:

Behringer Xenyx 502 or 802

Obviously the more you spend the better the value, but any of these should get you a pretty high price/performance in my opinion.

You’ll also need an xlr cable if the mic doesn’t come with one and something like this so you plug standard headphones in:

https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4&qid=1569969295&sprefix=3.5&sr=8-3

If you have unlimited money to spend, then a sennheiser e945 and an rc505 are going to future proof your beatboxing career.

Should be all you need, good luck!

You could just use these...

Thank you for the long and detailed reply!

I've connected mixer via two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and both my headset and mic are connected via these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAVOW00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The PS4 is connected via USB and automatically detects the mixer, but I have no way of changing the volume levels.

​

My sound card only has one line in which is also the mic port I believe.

Yes. I own them. You would need a 3.5mm to TRS adapter to plug them up to your computer: https://.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/

You might not be able to find them in a shop because there is now a newer model out.

So what I bought was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y-C6Cb0MJW91S

When what I should have bought was this and then plug each big plug into one channel each: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gaD6Cb8PCC022

1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm (1/4)" Maybe something like this.

This one should do it for you.

interesting, I am not sure what "breakout" means in this context but is this cable the same type?

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00ZKM3SHK&pd_rd_w=dPGBO&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=otmNM&pf_rd_r=B0RH72JX9RYWEWDAR9RC&pd_rd_r=11cde9c4-eb48-496b-92f9-4318a623ecd6&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzR1RIVlhEQ09ZRk0zJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTk1NzAxM0NNWDNBUFdYWlRZJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4Njk4ODYxNTZJQkpVTUxGUFBXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

I am asking cause I am not located in the US, and it will be difficult for me to order on the US amazon, I Need to understand what this cable exactly is to order such in my country

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=pe_2640190_232748420_pd_te_o_gr_ti/132-8775718-7912203?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ZKM3SHK&pd_rd_r=0X47XFXPKVBHTYF83D43&pd_rd_w=WXXK7&pd_rd_wg=UOZcZ

I think I just received one of what you want from Amazon, if I understand you correctly. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I probably paid too much, but I was too lazy to shop around.

Exactly. something like this would work

No problem. Actually now I've looked at the manual for your sub, I think I have a handle on what you need to do.

Here's a copy of the sub's manual. As you can see from the diagram, the single socket on the back of there is an output, not an input. You need to plug your Bose speakers into that with the standard lead, no adaptors needed.

To get the signal from the Scarlett to the subwoofer is a little trickier. You'll need a "2 x mono RCA to 3.5mm stereo socket" adapter. Here's one on Amazon - they may have one at Best Buy, but I couldn't find one with a quick search.

You plug the two RCA plugs from that adaptor into unbalanced outputs 1 + 2 on the back of the Scarlett. Then you take the lead from the sub (the one coming out of the little doohickey with the power switch and volume knob on it, which is attached to the sub - you can see it in the diagram in the manual) and plug it into the 3.5mm jack socket on the adapter.

I'm pretty sure that'll do the trick. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/

If im reading this right, you just need one of these. https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496544025&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+Stereo+Female+to+2+RCA+Male+Cable

Easy? I'm not sure. But I think this would fix it.

Solder (2) RCA Leads on the output, then use this cable.

I actually had this problem the other day! As you may know, the menus of most ps1 games are at 480p, but the game itself is at 240p, a resolution so unusual most TV's just ignore it. Over composite (also referred to as AV, RCA, and a million other names), it doesn't really care though.

If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)

Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game. PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

Since they're powered speakers and you just want to test audio from your deck, you can skip the Pioneer altogether and go from RCA out on the tape deck straight to the input on your pc speakers.

You need an RCA to TRS jack (female) then just plug the RCA's into your tape deck and the TRS plug from the speakers to the jack on the adapter.

Here's the adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522158276&sr=1-5&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm+jack

You can leave your amp right out of the picture for testing, your tape deck puts out linelevel which is fine to send to the speakers.

Well... the 3rd part you'd want to get is female 3.5mm like this . The one in the post you linked is male to plug into a monitor.

Do you have anything to control the volume if you do it this way? Just something that would bother me.

edit: searched toslink to 3.5mm and stuff like this came up. No need for RCA to 3.5mm if there's already 3.5mm port. Looks like the power cable is USB, too. Maybe you can just plug into the PS4 and save a power outlet on your surge protector.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000382-Z313-Speaker-System/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504518229&sr=8-1&keywords=z313

https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1504518244&sr=8-12&keywords=3.5+rca+adapter

38$

when my controller is hooked up to desktop i have z623's which have dedicated RCA inputs but are way over your budget

but on my laptop when im lounging around living room i have that exact setup linked above.

or goto a thrift store look for some used PC speakers preferably with a subwoofer and then buy an adapter like i linked, but its always a gamble.

the adapter is not a hassle, in ur price range it's pretty much a requirement.

>If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)
>

I have a component cable (one which has red, green and blue YPbPr connectors and the yellow analog video in too) . My new tv doesn't have a component (or composite or scart) in though, so i need an hdmi converter.

Maybe I shouldn't have made a tldr that leaves this out, because i said so above ;)

>Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

I don't think think having to use yellow video in for psx games is satisfactory when they were working with composite before. I'll try the upscaler.

>EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game.

I'm not just getting into them. I've played them on my ps2 for 18 years. :) Most of the time through composite (YPbPr), which my old tv supported (and all psx games worked like that).


>PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

They have a different data format so (though you could argue they could have made so you can put a 128KB psx save file onto a ps2 memory card).

But thanks anyway

I need some help. Below I am going to list all the stuff that I currently have.

My goal is to use my JBL Speakers to play audio for Netflix which is run through an Apple TV.

I plug the Hosa cables into the JBL speakers and then into the 3.5mm to RCA. The RCA is plugged into the converter. The converter has a digital optical cable plugged into it. The other end of the optical cable is plugged into the Apple TV.

All I hear is hissing. No sound from the Netflix show.

Please let me know if I need to supply any additional information.

vizio tv

https://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e371vl/

apple tv 3rd generation

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008#appletv-3rd

digital to analog converter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

3.5mm female to 2 male rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0156F38LG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hosa 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

JBL speakers (lsr305)x2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUKP37C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

What type of cable would i use to connect the MORDAUNT SHORT
M20 to the smsl sa 36a? also would i use an rca to 3.5mm cable to connect the amp to my PC? like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=twister_B00N9VLU9W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not perfect, but maybe you could add something like this between the turntable and the Sonos? I've never done this, but might be an option.

Has a button to send the output to the Sonos or Headphones
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Computer-Headphones-Converter-Switching/dp/B015FJ9WMW/

Then use RCA to 3.5 to connect it together
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B015PZ7QO2

That sounds pretty complicated.

use this and connect to your pc. If you can find a cheaper one out there, you can use that too.

After that, use 2 of these to connect to the splitter above. Use one pair to go into your Audioengine A2 and the other pair goes into your subwoofer.

Are you referring to when you're playing it in portable mode or docked? If portable, you should be able to use some sort of USB-C to RCA adapter (like this) or a AUX to RCA adapter in the headphone jack (like this). If it's docked, I think you can use a USB-A to RCA adapter (like this).

You'd have to do some testing to figure that out. I assume you have just a pair of powered speakers - IE you plug them into the wall and turn them on and control the volume with them?

If that's the case, first step is to use a different audio source to see if they work. Grab a mini-stereo to RCA cable like this, plug your phone into the speakers, and see if you can stream a song from it. If yes, the issue is with the table or the RCA cables. If no, the issue is with the speakers.

If your phone does play fine through the speakers, then the next step, unfortunately, is probably to drop a hundred bucks or so on a different turntable. Looking at your Aiwa's manual, it doesn't look like the RCA cables (possible culprit 1) are removable, and the cartridge (possible culprit 2) is definitely not replaceable.

To get started you need an amp and a set of speakers. Your budget will determine quite a bit about what you get.

With your budget you're looking at some bookshelf speakers and an amp as an AVR will just eat too much of it. I like using an AVR for 2.1 setups like you've requested but this time it's just not going to happen unless the budget increases.

My shopping list for you

Amp - Sony STRDH130 $100 2.0 receiver will give you more inputs, bass and treble control and a remote.

Sub - Dayton Sub 1200 $120 on sale. The 12" should get you more an enough bass to shake the floor. Just be sure to adjust the level of the sub more than on the AVR as you don't want to overdrive the speakers as they will not produce a lot of bass and you can't cross them over.

Speakers - JBL Loft 30 $40 or Polk T15 $50 Neither of these are "great" speakers but they will get the job done. You can upgrade down the road if you fell they are lacking.

Misc - Speaker wire $11, RCA to 3.5mm $7, and electricians tool$11. You don't have to get the tool but it makes stripping so much easier if you don't have one.

Total: $299 for the Polks and $289 for the JBL setup

*with tool included

Yes, from the preamp you can connect an RCA-to-3.5mm(aux) cabe and hook it up to the speakers. You can look into the ART phono preamp, it's quite cheap and works ok: https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483211970&sr=8-1&keywords=art+phono+preamp

The cable you would need is like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1483212026&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

I think you need this? SmartEra 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0oToDb8XAESVF

Or something like it. Seems like a strange setup.

You could just plug the microphone into the splitter cable, assuming you have a 2x TRS (red plug and green plug) headset as opposed to TRRS (one plug for both). You shouldn't need a resistor for that.

If you have a TRRS headphone (as are increasingly common these days) you can still pull it off with a TRRS to TRS adapter.

Does your headset have a TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve, 3 rings) cable or individual mic (red) and headphone (green) cables? If you have TRRS, it may not work and you will have to use an adapter like this.

are you talking about something like this? I only ask because it is strange to me that I am having this issue, I did not know about the different 'poles'. thank you.

Like this?

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=314600398085783127&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004214&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

Does your headphone/mic have four separations on a single plug? If so, you'll need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15985995701149216869&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027645&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

Amazon

You're going to end up with a mess of adapters but it's possible:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht

​

Each of these will need a male - female adapter.

​

Might just be easier to use a seperate mic into your phone. The mic built-into the free headphones that came with your phone will probably be a similar quality to your gaming headset's. Just clip that need your collar and don't bother using the headphones themselves.

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12193569697757054016&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015334&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

I have the RP-160m with the NAD C316BEE . I have never tried the rp-600m but I think they could work well with that amplifier.

You need speakers cables like these: cable

I'm using the RB42s with an SMSL AD18 DAC+Amp. I'm using these speaker cables. Desktop use, with a computer. I'm also using an old sub from a Logitech speaker set to pad out the low end, but the speakers sound great on their own.

How would I remove the plugs? I don't have a wire stripper or other tools to cut it. These are the cables I have.

I have these cables and these speaker feet. I recommend both.

I listen to just about everything, from classic rock to Shostakovitch to Dwight Yoakam to Kendrick Lamar. The HSUs sound great with all of it.

I'm rewriting my reply here to better fit your budget. Here are two possible configurations I would recommend from Ascend + Rythmik. I recommend these brands because I've gone through many speaker and subwoofer brands costing twice as much as these, which sound only half as good as Ascend and Rythmik.

2.1 Music Optimized System (but also great for home theater) - $2980:

• Ascend Sierra 2-EX Speakers Pair: $1500
  
• Generic Speaker Stand Pair: $50 - $100
  
• Rythmik F12 Subwoofer: $1000
  
• Denon AVR-S650H Receiver: $350
  
• Fancy speaker wires: $30
  
  This music-optimized configuration will give you an incredible music experience, very near the pinnacle of what is even possible: This will get you 80-90% of the way to the music sound quality of a configurations costing 10x as much.
  
  It will also be excellent for home theater, and without question will put any sound bar (at any price) to shame. The only reason the alternate configuration below is better for home theater is: it will go louder (you can play at 'reference' levels, matching the SPL of a real movie theater), and it does surround sound.
  
  Note that I personally have the above configuration (minus this particular Denon model), and can attest that it is absolutely incredible. It sounds 80-90% as good as a system with Ascend's flagship tower speakers (which I also have) for half the price.
  
  7.1 Home Theater Optimized System (but also great for music) - $2986:
  
  
• Ascend CMT-340SE Speakers Pair: $500
  
• [Optional:] Ascend TP-24 Stand Pair (designed for CMT-340): $180
  
• Ascend CMT-340SE Center Speaker: $300
  
• Ascend HTM-200SE Speakers (Two Pairs): $600
  
• Rythmik FVX15 Subwoofer: $1100
  
• Denon AVR-S750H Receiver: $450
  
• 100ft spool of 14 gauge speaker wire: $36
  
  This 7.1 surround configuration is optimized for home theater, but will still sound very satisfying for music in both stereo and surround modes. It should be able to reach "reference level" SPL (very loud) for movies in a medium room, and cover the entire audible frequency spectrum.
  
  There are many people who just have a stereo pair of CMT-240SE + a subwoofer, and rave about how much better they sound than speakers twice their cost.
  
  I would recommend going with the TP-24 stands to properly elevate the front LR speakers, since they were specifically designed for the CMT-340 mini-tower speakers (they look quite nice together), but it does bring the order over-budget to $3166. If your $3k limit is absolutely firm, I would recommend either (1) improvising your own stands, or (2) going for a 5.1 setup instead to save money (you can later buy more surrounds if you like).

Mediabridge 12AWG Ultra Series Speaker Cable - Gold Plated Banana Tips (6 FT) - CL2 99.9% Oxygen Free - Black (SWT-12B-06B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CYGMD4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oS.vDb1CZ7MTV

It's a little cable, so that a 2-in-1 headset of any sort can work on a computer with two separate jacks for headphones and microphones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S5158892/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B01ABRS00S&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o17&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3286923618146086149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1023626&hvtargid=pla-319814649008

(This, but a different brand)

You'll need somthing like this: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520961870&sr=8-7&keywords=headphone+mic+cable

as long as Mic/Headphones are two separate jacks

I got a message my other comment was deleted, so let me try again.

Gotcha. There is this one that separates the mic and headphones. And here is another with Prime shipping.

You're looking for something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Series-Subwoofer-Cable/dp/B00KCQSW3E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413826946&sr=8-1&keywords=subwoofer+y+cable

Edit: Oops, OP don't listen to me, people below me have explained why.
Just curious then, what should you use for a situation like this, wouldn't you only be getting one "channel" delivered to the subwoofer if you just use either the right or left output?

I haven't ever tried it, but wouldn't one of these female audio jacks essentially work in reverse?

Connect a male-to-male audio cable from the RPi3 audio jack to the female audio jack, then connect the speaker wires to one channel (either L or R) and ground of the female jack. And then use the Pi's volume controls to amplify.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but potentially the cheapest and easiest to implement (no soldering, etc). Of course, I love low-rent solutions :)

I had this issue for my nephew, who couldn’t have his headset connected while docked.

I don’t know of a wireless option, but we simply added more cord, and went full into the wired option.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3OT2P2/

This one looks okay. For audio, you need RCA to 3.5mm, like this or this.