(Part 3) Best household cleaning products according to redditors
We found 2,039 Reddit comments discussing the best household cleaning products. We ranked the 788 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Lestoil is your friend. Will take those stains right out. Will also remove ink, chapstick, and candle wax.
Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.
Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.
I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.
Edit
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/
Spray
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q
You might not travel with these, but have you ever tried toilet drops?
I have trouble standing and walking, but am fine when sitting, so most of my advice is from that viewpoint.
Swiffers for everything! Mop/sweeper, duster, dusting cloths, etc. They're really efficient and disposable so I don't have to deal with things like mop buckets, dirty mop heads, cleaning feather dusters, anything like that.
One of those extendable pincher things to help pick stuff up off the floor.
An extendable scrubber for the bathroom. The shape makes it really easy to get into corners.
A clothes folder makes it really easy to fold your clothes, and I can use this on my lap while sitting down in bed.
A walker with a seat makes it really easy to get around to do things and has a seat for when I need to sit down. The basket that most come with helps to carry supplies from one room to the next.
Stick vaccums are super lightweight and easy to maneuver even from a couch or bed.
A scrubbing attachment that goes on a power drill is so helpful when you don't have the strength or stamina to scrub by hand.
I swear by all of the Kaboom products. All of them are no-effort cleaning supplies. They have toilet cleaner, mold and mildew cleaner, and, of course, the famous shower foam.
An automatic vacuum like a roomba is great for most people, but I've never had one so I can't comment myself.
Soak your dishes. There are special products that help get dried on food off your dishes, but I've found that just soaking them in hot water for 20-30 minutes before trying to wash them gets most stuck on food off. For really tough, baked on gunk, add a dryer sheet to the water. Sounds weird, but it helps soften up the crusty blackened burnt on food and it comes off easily.
For food that's stuck on the inside of the microwave, take a cup of water, add some lemon juice, and microwave it on full power for 6 minutes. The food will wipe right off.
I might think of more things later. If I do I'll come back and edit this post.
It can cause non-glass windows to get dull/foggy.
There are ammonia-less cleaners better than Windex. This is what I use. Buddy of mine who makes glass recommended it. Target should have single cans for like $2.50
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002YC438C/ref=mp_s_a_1_8_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1521409024&sr=8-8&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish
This is it
CAUTION WITH WINDEX OR ANY AMMONIA BASED WINDOW CLEANER!!
If you have tinted windows the ammonia is what ruins an purples your tint. My advice NEVER ever use any cleaner like that on your car.
As others have said, don't buy cheap if you want results, but don't be oblivious do deals an alternative products either.
For example, Sprayway glass cleaner is an exact match to Invisible Glass and it's stupid cheap.
It's just called glass cleaner. My company distributes it themselves but I've noticed that other windshield replacement companies have their own stuff too which is the exact same. I've also seen it at just about every car dealership. Not sure if they're for sale but it is absolutely amazing.
I just looked it up online and this looks like the same stuff
For some reason, everyone thinks oil spots are impossible to remove or at the very least really difficult. A quick google search will show you a quick and cheap way to remove almost any oil spot without hassle. I know because I'm a Landlord in an HOA that has had to do it several times.
FYI - I also thought they were impossible to remove (without a pressure washer or something) for a long time because that is what everyone kept telling me, but no totally wrong.
In case you're wondering I used Simple Green 19128 Crystal Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser to pull huge oil stains out of some driveways with no problem. I know you're on asphalt, but I'm, sure there something that will do that too.
This is what your using on your face?
When my tools get really gunked up (happens more in the winter when I'm adding oil to my foundation) I use LA's Totally Awesome Orange all purpose cleaner. I can only find it at dollar stores, but here's a listing on Amazon.
It has orange oil, which if you have ever known any mechanics, is the bomb at cleaning even the most stubborn crap. But it's still somehow gentle.
Lestoil is pretty great for laundering greasy things!
> 91% Isopropyl Alcohol
You'll be fine, but 91% is on the low side and I prefer to err on the side of caution. I usually buy 99.9% just to be safe.
Maybe look into something like this?
Future floor finish is the best way. Paint a little on the joint and it evens itself out into the crevices and tightens it up. Plus it can be removed if you end up with too much in the joint.
Pledge Floor Polish
There's an obscure product called Tibetan almond stick. This will take out the small scratches at the end.
For the deeper part you'll have to get some artists markers from an art store to match the color.
https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0006ZN9OS
I get that crap all over my place and spray it with a Wet & Forget solution. Works good lasts a long time.
Brasso or never dull for polishing. Those are metals that need attention to look great. Like Zooshooter said you may want to try sealing it after a good polish.
https://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Duraglit-Metal-Polish-Wadding/dp/B004G8YNIM/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1466001891&sr=8-3&keywords=brasso
I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728K142V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x8NOBbN9XRR4D. and Simple Green Crystal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ULLGRU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.
just fill the cleaner with the simple green up to the max line and put in a dirty piece and run it on a 7.5 minute cycle.
alternatively, you could put a piece in like a ziplock bag with isopropyl alcohol, and submerge the bag into regular water in the cleaner as well. the ultrasonic cleaning will permeate the bag. you can't just fill the tub with alcohol because it may catch on fire.
For things that don't readily come off with alcohol and/or water.
These:
Alconox Powder Labware Detergent, 4 lbs Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FGDEP1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_buPwCbCFF6J2R
100% Orange Oil d-Limonene HIGH PURITY Food Grade, Solvent, Medicinal, Cleaner, Degreaser, Limonene (32 fl oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WuPwCb3DKT2R4
And/or an ultrasonic bath are what we use in our lab.
To clarify we do not specifically mix alconox and limonene. Not saying it will be toxic or have a violent reaction if the 2 mix, but typically we try not to mix solvents.
For stubborn stuff the ultrasonic bath works great.
I would avoid using salt as it can scratch the glass and if you are using tap water it's a good idea to rinse with ethanol or isopropyl afterwards to prevent hard water stains and to help it dry thoroughly.
If you can't decide which to try first go with the limonene. If it's still really stuck you'll probably be best to invest in a ultrasonic bath.
I use mineral oil. This brand, to be specific.
I used to use a water-soluble oil cleanser that I looooved. When I figured out I had/have fungal acne I had to upheave my routine. Mineral oil does not feed/exacerbate the issue. However, it also does not rinse off like my previous cleanser (which was One Love Organics Vitamin B Cleansing Oil). To successfully remove the mineral oil layer I use a hot washcloth every night. It's actually my favorite part of getting ready for bed, now. The feeling is really nice. Afterwards I refresh with a hydrating spritzer and it's wonderful.
Something like Brasso might work?
What date is on the inside of the handles? It's usually something like 0895 for August 1995, or 0900 for September 2000 etc.
> I'd like to stick a bowl cleaner in the tank (or bowl) to resolve the issue, but I've read it's bad to use them if you're not flushing the toilet multiple times a day.
This depends on which one you get.
This one feeds cleaner directly into the bowl, without chlorinating the tank. That one would be fine to NOT flush daily.
This is too messy and kind of a slow process. If you want something safe, fast acting and durable protection for a few weeks, you need to spray D-limonene. It is just citrus oil and it is the only thing I have found to instantly stop an ant invasion.
[ Here is an Amazon Link ] ( http://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries%C2%AE-d-Limonene-Limonene-Terpenes/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1427708497&sr=8-4&keywords=d-limonene )
Sure. First I used paint in a rattle can from https://www.automotivetouchup.com/. You can put your paint code in and get an exact match. My bay used 1 can of red primer for some of the bare spots I did some metal work on. I used 5 cans of base coat and 4 cans of their high gloss clear. To prep the bay, I pulled everything out I could. Engine was already out. I power washed it. Sprayed it with scrubbing bubbles. The power washed again. I used 3M 07777 scuff pads to take the shine off the previous paint. The entire bay. Then compressed air to get rid of the dust. Finally washing it down with with Sprayaway glass cleaner. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052V1JA2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The glass cleaner sounds strange, but this is what one of my friends uses and paints vehicles on a regular basis and it works. Finally mask literally everything off. I used 7 sheets of plastic drop sheets from Lowes to encase the front of the car from the rest of the garage and started laying base coat. No real technique other than the directions on the can. I let it dry for a day and did clear the following day.
The clear coat is a bit more tricky. You have to get the right distance to get it smooth, otherwise it will be foggy or rough. This took a couple tries to get used to and my bay is not perfect. There are 2 spots in the upper left and right corners at the firewall that are rough. But those are going to be covered up by various parts anyway.
Hope this is helpful. Even the rattle can paint sounded questionable until I saw someone else do it on instagram with similar results before I did mine. Id do it again if I had it. I just hope it holds up.
metal polish for brass
Regular polywatch only works on acryllic but the 2 part works on mineral, hardlex and supposedly sapphire. It works really well in my experience. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071YZQ47L/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506353937&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=polywatch
Poly watch also has a kit that's for other types. I've used it on hardlex successfully.
Polywatch Glass Polish All Kinds Of Glass Scratch Remover/Sapphire Scratch Remover / Repair Cell Phone Screens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YZQ47L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FzikDbV2MBB2B
The trick with this stuff is to work it for about 45 minutes or so depending on the depth of the scratch. It will eventually remove it.
Is it safe to vaccuum up carpet deodorizer with my Miele S8? I was looking at this stuff.
Very nice and clean!
Before you heat the bed and set the adhesive, I'd peel it off, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol (the good industrial stuff) and attempt to re-adhere the PEI. If you got yours from Amazon, you should have spare sheets of it.
I rolled on 3M onto the bed first, using an empty wine bottle to drive the bubbles out. Then I trimmed the adhesive and carefully peeled off the other side. Next, I bowed the PEI a bit, lined up the 2 corners, and started rolling it on, using a bottle as a pressure roller. Worked out pretty good.
Also...
http://imgur.com/FgHEkyF
If you haven’t already fixed it, you could try the Zenith Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cCDdAbKEHWVGF
I hope the link works. You can google the name anyway if it doesn’t, they even sell it at Walmart. It’s amazing! When I was younger my brother helped me move into my apartment and put my teak dining table upside down in the bed of his truck with nothing protecting it. It got super scratched by little rocks or whatever was in his truck bed, and he gave me that Xenith Tibet almond stick to use. It made them almost disappear completely!
Hey there! First off, you might want to check out the sidebar which has a whole section on OCM.
No, you don't need to halt your whole routine in order to incorporate OCM into it. In fact, I follow a regimen pretty close to yours and use OCM every night.
Jojoba oil is usually pretty good for OCM because it very closely mimics the skin's natural oil. However, be careful because even though an oil might work really well for someone else doesn't mean it'll work well for you. Jojoba oil sadly broke me out--but give it a try because it might be great for your skin! I personally wouldn't recommend vitamin E oil because it's pretty comedogenic.
A good way to start off with OCM is to begin with plain mineral oil. It's basically baby oil without the fragrance. You can try using baby oil, but many people are sensitive to the fragrance. Lots of people like to use this brand. I personally just bought it myself as well!
If you're having trouble with acne, then mixing in tea tree oil or neem oil (which I think is amaaaazing) would really help. However, it's important to patch test these individually first to see if they mesh well with your skin.
I personally oil cleanse at night to take off all my makeup, and then follow up with a gentle cleanser. This is called double cleansing and it just helps make sure I get all the gunk out of my face.
I use this and like it OK. It doesn't break me out or anything, but once the bottle runs out I don't plan on re-buying it.
The hydrating cleanser should work all right for you, but if you're having problems with oiliness despite moisturizing well, you should try switching to the foaming. Also I use Neutrogena Clear Face sunscreen and like it a lot. It goes on nicely with only a little white cast.
Apparently the new formula for Brasso sucks, so try this... http://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Duraglit-Metal-Polish-Wadding/dp/B004G8YNIM/ref=pd_sbs_hg_5/189-6507895-0626905?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VSS956MK064AVNWSD6D
maybe ask on /r/AutoDetailing ? This works for me https://www.amazon.com/Sprayway-Glass-Cleaner-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B0052V1JA2?th=1
If not, Hot water + Soap or Foam cannon soak should do the trick.
Awesome! Don’t be shy to share some pics!
If you’re not using it already, the [Pledge Floor Gloss](Pledge Floor Finish Gloss 27 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YC438C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) definitely helps a lot for the dotting step so it’s worth tracking some down. As I mentioned in one of my replies above, the only way I can tell which of the models were painted with the catgutt wash recipe vs. GW Skeleton Horde is by looking at the dots. The first 5 I painted were without the floor gloss and the dots are not as neat because I was basically trying to paint them on vs. depositing a small bead onto the model.
If you can’t get that stuff where you are, I think you would get similar results using [Acrylic Flow Improver](Winsor & Newton Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060KRGQA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share).
Let me know if I can be of any help as you paint yours up. Catgutt has been really helpful to me and I’m happy to pay it forward!
OP, if you want to start again. Get some Simple Green (original one only, not any special varieties) to strip them. It might be harder to find where you live in stores, but Amazon and Staples usually carries it.
After that, check out this video on painting Ultramarines. They give a paint list at the beginning, any colors you don't have from the AoS kit you'll need to either get individually or in the Ultramarines paint kit.
Also prime them black (spray primer). You can try to check out what other people use to prime that won't clog detail, or you can get the Citadel stuff.
EDIT: Soak 'em in a plastic container filled with the Simple Green for 24 hours. Then just use a toothbrush to get it all off. Should come off fairly easily (you might have to work a bit in the grooves).
EDIT 2: If you really enjoy painting, you might want to check out /r/minipainting's buyers guide. And also check out a lot of tutorials on YouTube. YouTube is your friend. Warhammer TV I linked above has lots of painting videos, but there are tons of other channels like miniwargaming, their spin-off channels, Tabletop Minions, etc.
Try a Tibet Almond Stick(Used to be Zenith). My mom used them on everything when I was a kid. I bought one a few years ago and the still work well. There are videos on YouTube to check it out.
Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover Most Amazing Wooden Surface Stain Remover And Give
Perfect New Look To Wood Products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L8XEDbHJPBVXY
At a glance, that doesn't look like anything permanent. I always kept my GamePad spotless (damn that glossy finish), never had a scratch on it -- but mine certainly looked worse a few times after having a bunch of pizza-eating people over for Smash Bros. Always just used electronics wipes -- something like these. They left streaks on the GamePad's gloass, so once it was fully dry, I buffed it with a microfiber cloth. Looked like new.
Take the shells off and scrub them with some of this stuff..
Shit works for everything.
One source. Look for Pledge or Johnson’s product that has terms like future floor care, floor care with future shine, etc. Here in the US it is about $5-7 USD in most stores in the floor care aisle. I got some in the UK that was a tad cloudy, but it dried just as clear. I forget the name...
The original name, back in the 70’s, was Future. We all call it that today who were introduced to its features then.
The link
https://www.amazon.com/PRO-YELLOW-WAX-PASTE/dp/B00789Y98K
D limonene is food grade Orange oil. The purest form. I had cancer, and it's all I use now. Also cheap. You only need a tiny bit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009SSGW48/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487104647&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=d+limonene&dpPl=1&dpID=414LSF-71jL&ref=plSrch
Things at the store are gimmicks :)
http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457463596&sr=8-1&keywords=tsp
Cheaper at your box store probably unless you are in an ocean facing state that has outlawed it for algae reasons.
Also you should always clean walls with TSP before painting. Generally speaking I've had better luck with TSP cleaned walls and paint than uncleaned walls with primer and then paint, and it's a whole lot easier.
Always had good luck with this stuff. It was used by a dealership I worked at to detail cars.
Remember to get some isopropyl alcohol, for example electronics cleaner and wipe the glass between prints. So you get much better adhesion when there is no residue from previous prints.
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Electronics/dp/B005T8PL1Q
http://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY
I used, Polywatch Glass Polish All Kinds Of Glass Scratch Remover/Sapphire Scratch Remover / Repair Cell Phone Screens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YZQ47L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_mcPr7igIF4tTX, to repair a scratch from a steel strand that went thru my pants and got the front of the screen on my s7.
I could feel the scratch with my fingernail and the scratch looked white. I only used the finishing portion of the kit. It buffed it out. I only tried it because I'm trading in my phone and was pleased with the results. No picture. Worked for me. No idea if I wiped away any film that was on screen. I cannot tell there was a scratch or anything there before. But I'm trading in my phone.
Let them know exactly what happend and seek an RMA if possible as others suggest.
If no RMA is provided, you should clean that socket using high purity isopropyl alcohol. You can normally get it at a pharmacy in "medical grade". Or you can buy electronics grade in aerosol can or liquid to thoroughly rinse out and flush the socket.
Go buy some trisodium phosphate. Add a little bit of that (Like 1/4 teaspoon, doesn't take much) to your dishwasher detergent. Works wonders.
Rubber Renew
please note this is nasty stuff so make sure to use in a well-ventilated area
I use a product called Lestoil, I've only had one shirt that it couldn't get clean, and that was mostly because I wasn't willing to put that much work into that old of a shirt. It's not cheap, but like I said I've never had it fail me.
Lestoil
fear cuts deeper than swords
1.) Something that is grey. probably the best thing invented.
2.) Something reminiscent of rain. who doesn't like doggy rain jackets? :3
3.) Something food related that is unusual. BACON
4.) Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. this item is something i would like to give to my boyfriend as a gift. he finally got his dream car on the road and we both love Judas priest.
5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! this book is a classic. if you have seen the movie then the book is even better. along with my grandparents being back round actors in the original movie. look the book, love the movies.
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! cause its "cheap stuff"
7.) Something related to cats. I love cats! i would never get bored with this. or tiss on my wishlist :3
8.) Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it. it's useless to me because i don't drink, but it's cool as fuck. (on wishlist, for my sister)
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? I loved this movie when i first watched it. it's interesting, keeps you watching and it doesnt start out boring like most "scary movies" do. it's a movie i would suggest to all. (on wishlist)
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. it explains itself.. but you can hold a lot of stuff while out hunting zombies!
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. my mother is a nail tech and i want to go to school as one so i can become one as well. this would help me become better at doing nails while i 'practice' on people.
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. do you want a stinky toilet?
13.) The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why? i've always been a huge fan of sugar skulls and i would love this in my room. it's not a dream item but it is the highest priced item on my wishlist. i think it's beautiful.
14.) Something bigger than a bread box. on my wishlist. isn't it pretty? :)
15.) Something smaller than a golf ball. on my wishlist. " a golf ball weighs no more than 1.620 oz (45.93 grams), has a diameter not less than 1.680 in (42.67 mm)" my item is 1.25 in.
16.) Something that smells wonderful. i'm native american so i enjoy burning incense and sage. don't know about you, but it's a wonderful thing to me.
17.) A (SFW) toy. who doesn't like laser pointers? dog people. thats who.
18.) Something that would be helpful for going back to school. fuck, i'm 17 and i'd buy this for myself!
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. i'm obsessed with Judas Priest, as well as my boyfriend. i need to knew sweatshirt and i've been trying to convince my parents to get me this one. Turbo Love by Judas Priest is my boyfriend and I's song to each other, he just got his car on the road so his license plate is dedicated to that song. (wishlist item)
20.) Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand. you may not think this is so amazing, but holy shit who wouldn't want to fucking float on a donut? i mean paint yourself yellow and just call yourself mothafuckinnn homer simpson! or this you'd have the best skinny dip of your life!
this was really fun! thank you :)
LA's Totally Awesome cleaner does a good job of removing sticker residue. https://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM $7 at Amazon, $1 dollar at every dollar store in America. Goo-Be-Gone works well too, but can etch some plastics pretty quickly, so be careful and rinse well if you choose to go that route.
use this
If someone could tell me how to duplicate the insanely perfectly clean glass surface produced by Sprayway Glass Cleaner, I'd be pretty happy about it. I'm a photographer, and I shoot on glass now and again. I've found nothing else that removes everything, and leaves zero haze, streaks, or dust.
| Price/Months | Cost | Notes
---|---|----|----
Mineral Oil | $18/48 | $0.37
Sugar Scrub | $3.50/2 | $1.75 | Stock up during sales
AHA Liquid | $40/24 | $1.67 | $23 on Amazon
Tretinoin | $50/8 | $6.25 | Out of pocket
BP Cream | $8/3 | $2.67 | Stock up during sales
CeraVe SA | $15/6 | $2.50 | Stock up during sales
Sunscreen | $12/3 | $4.00 |
Vaseline | $4/forever | ~~~~ | Negligible
| Total: | **$19.21**
This is with perfect application; the real cost is probably significantly lower since I frequently skip steps and/or days.
I have a few other things like Stridex pads, Aztec clay and Pond's cream that I sometimes use, but they're just casualties from previous trial and error, so they're not really part of the routine.
The Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Toner feels like the most frivolous expense, but it works amazingly well and lasts forever since I put it directly on my face using a tiny bottle instead of wasting 3/4 of it into a cotton pad. Also, lesson learned: don't buy anything from Sephora unless you're in there for the service and/or enjoy flushing money down the toilet LOL.
Hopefully once I'm in the military they'll put me on Accutane and then I can be done with most of this nonsense, but until then this routine keeps me radiant and 100% acne free and as long as I have the patience to actually do it...
My brick house, patio, and fence has mold that I routinely pressure wash. I wanted to know if this stuff works, so I looked it up on Amazon. I just bought some. Good salesmanship, op.
Interesting. Thanks a lot!
Will these do?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009WY5GY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PW56WA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013R9VT0
Not the all-purpose, the degreaser.
https://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries-d-Limonene-Medicinal-Degreaser/dp/B009SSGW48?th=1
Thank you. I am in California unfortunately for that, but I think I'll try to order this and see if it arrives. I'm not sure if the Skyriter has feed rollers, but I'll have to take off the platen to tell because I can't see them.
i have made 16 batches of THC ecig stuff using alcohol, PG and PEG-400. i was going to wait longer to see how long it holds, but i'll share my initial results (because every batch ive made has had some problems down the line. i wanted to wait and see if this one stayed homogenized. the commercial opens i bought months ago are easily 6 months old, and still perfect):
when i heated it to let the shatter and PG mix faster, they always came apart weeks later. my best batch took 5 weeks to de-homogenize. my latest batch, room temperature. just setting 1g of shatter into 1g of PG and letting it sit. it's been 4 days now and it's looking very good. still some solid white chunks, plant waxes im sure. i used a very low quality shatter, i doubt it had been winterized.
i really wish i could find a place i could get PEG-400 that didnt taste bad. i got some from texlabsupply and it has a heavy plastic taste to it, can't use.
now, if you really want to step up your game, you'll try to replicate tetra labs gold oil. they add d-lemonine to it after they mix it up, 5% by volume. i think most THC ecigs are 1 part shatter to 1 part solvent (PG or PEG). so i was going to mix up a "pre-mix" for THC ecig use which was 10% d-lemonine. that way i can just squirt out 1ml into a bho container, and let it sit.
http://www.amazon.com/Blubonic-Industries-d-Limonene-Solvent-Dlimonene/dp/B009SSGW48/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410549287&sr=8-5&keywords=d+limonene
i might go with a smaller quantity. if i used all of it up, it would denote i bought and consumed over 1 kilo of shatter. that would be a long fucking time.
edit: for the commercially bought thc ecig pens, indica ones always had a berry flavor to them. does anyone know what that might be? because i think d-limonene is some of the good flavors in some strains. if i could buy some and mix it in to add to the flavor? i thought i might be able to do this with just essential oils, but that does not sound like the case.
I use this bag every day and it's absolutely perfect. Won't fit a laptop that isn't a small netbook or those tiny Macbook Air's though.
What I carry all the time:
I put this on a carpet that had a lot more than 2 liters of water because it was still smelling funny and to take care of the remaining moisture. http://www.amazon.com/Arm-Hammer-Odor-Elminator-Carpet/dp/B0014B36HS
Awesome All purpose cleaner Used to be called just tire cleaner. You can pick it up from most dollar stores and it'll clean rust off rust. We used it to clean an old RV and if you leave it on too long it'll strip the paint right off. This stuff cleans EVERYTHING.
Consumer grade R2R machines like that usually haven't even been turned on for at least a couple decades, so pretty much all of them need work these days. Assuming the electronics are OK, you should be able to get it functional enough to use as a tape echo in a couple hours.
Get a bottle of rubbing or denatured alcohol. Remove the front panel (might have to remove a few transport pieces first). Check the grease on the moving parts (bearings, levers etc.). It's probably sticky and gross after all these years and should be cleaned off. Don't replace it with WD-40, use some kind of machine oil or lithium grease. Check the rubber parts - idler wheels, belts, pinch rollers. If they are real hard and cracked (or turned to goo), you're shit outta luck unless you got spares or want to spend a bunch of money. If they are just dirty (they probably are), clean them up with isopropyl alcohol or preferably rubber renue. A lot of folks say that alcohol will damage the rubber parts but in my experience that's bullshit.
Clean any switch contacts and pots with contact cleaner. At the very least wiggle all the controls a few times to make sure everything works.
Have fun!
Lestoil!
Gets out grease stains better than anything I've ever tried. I always get nervous because the product itself feels oily, so I think I'm just making things worse, but once you throw it in the washer or sink, the spots come out like magic. Great for food stains like salad dressing or bacon splatters!
Obligatory shout out to my mom for introducing me to this wonder product.
I also use the Snow River Mineral Oil and I order it off of Amazon. It's perfect for makeup removal and OCM! :)
This product is very effective, with a wet towel of it, and may be combined with bleach, if needed. Rubber gloves and a white towel, if the wall is white. Open the windows.
https://www.amazon.com/Savogran-10622-Trisodium-Phosphate-4-5lbs/dp/B000AXE7CY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474478520&sr=8-1&keywords=TSP+All+Purpose+Heavy+Duty+Cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052V1JA2/ref=psdc_10802561_t2_B07K1ZD36P
I don't know how this stuff works. But this is the best glass cleaner I've ever used. I use it on phones, tablets, and monitors with great success. Pretty cheap too.
I soak models in this to clean them up similar to the isopropyl
​
https://www.amazon.com/19128-Crystal-Industrial-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B000ULLGRU/ref=pd_day0_hl_328_2/141-7569661-0046824?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000ULLGRU&pd_rd_r=e8ae5362-a576-407f-8364-05395c4ab749&pd_rd_w=seEjq&pd_rd_wg=1CcDU&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=06E8ZRY0Z81X5XJMS6HD&psc=1&refRID=06E8ZRY0Z81X5XJMS6HD
I find that hard water + lather creates layers and layers of scum on the DE razor. Takes about a week to be ugly, 2 weeks to be disgusting. The solution, for me, is an ultrasonic cleaner. Bought the cheapest 2 Liter capacity model Amazon sold, have been extremely pleased with the results. Removes scum, hard water deposits, and even blobs-of-glue. You know, DE blades are wrapped in paper and (inexplicably!) glued to the inner wrapper. Some of the glue sticks to the blade, then some of the blade-glue sticks to the razor. Ultrasonic removes it. I use a few spritzs of Simple Green plus a spurt of dishwashing liquid, in the (hot) water.
I have used tsp
And a ozone generator in my rentals if they have smoked.
I usually only need to run the ozone machine.
I don't know what is in it but it works... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover-x/dp/B0006ZN9OS&ved=2ahUKEwje4sKj0aDgAhUMeKwKHZpiCLcQFjACegQIDRAO&usg=AOvVaw1urS5begkYnT6EDiyZzRne
I bought these for my TV, Xbox, etc., and found out they work really well on my iPhone too
I have no idea. This is the stuff I use http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rubber-Liquid-Bottle/dp/B008O9X3KS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457111657&sr=8-3&keywords=rubber+rejuvenator
Mineral oil might work, it depends on the rubber. There's a good chance that you could damage or ruin them too, just be aware of that going in.
Here are some other products that might work:https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-408A-125ML-Rubber-Liquid/dp/B008O9X3KS/
https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2/
Edit: I was assuming they were older speakers and the reason the rubber was stiff was from drying out/hardening over time. If these are new speakers (i.e. the rubber is less than a decade or two old) you really shouldn't be trying to soften them up.
This. Also use bag-o-rags from autozone
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AP585M/ref=asc_df_B000AP585M5027594/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395009&creativeASIN=B000AP585M&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151917164&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10381526456474114756&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028716&hvtargid=pla-359966164207
Polywatch Glass Polish All Kinds Of Glass Scratch Remover/Sapphire Scratch Remover / Repair Cell Phone Screens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YZQ47L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7d84Cb3NH4Q64
Ordered this recently, going to test it on the weekend, have really light scratches on the corners of PH-1, don't want to use a screen protector; have had the phone for 3 months, bought brand new so hopefully this helps.
I use this,
https://www.amazon.com/Kaboom-Scrub-Toilet-Cleaning-System/dp/B00LPEO64G
With these,
https://www.amazon.com/Kem-Tek-1-Inch-Chlorinating-Tablets-4-Pound/dp/B000HZRF92
Haven't scrubbed my toilets in years.
Coconut oil is known to clog pores in a lot of people. Were you double cleansing or just oil cleansing?
The Paula's choice one has vitamin e and coconut oil, both of which can clog pores, it also has a lot of added ingredients.
If you are okay with using one that doesn't emulsify (rinse off with water) then mineral oil or squalane is good. You could use this before a regular milk or foaming cleanser at night.
https://www.amazon.ca/Snow-River-32-Ounce-Wood-Oil/dp/B00280MY7M
^mineral oil
If you're familiar with the ordinary, they have cheap squalane. I've never used an already made oil cleanser because my skin is very sensitive but if you search up oil cleansers on this sub, I'm sure there are some recommendations.
You would have to use something like a warm, wet microfiber towel to take the oil off before using your second cleanser if it doesn't rinse off. I use any clean cotton t shirt I don't mind staining. I would only do this in the pm.
Maybe try this? Worked great on our carpets.
Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).
Healthy cats typically do not pee on carpet. So before you do anything else they need to see a vet and rule out anything medical. If it is a behavioural problem you can try out the following:
Prevention is much easier than cleanup. To get the smell out of the carpet you can use an enzyme cleaner (you can get it at the pet store). You can also try a product like this, they also have a pet specific kind, either one will work well. Also make sure to clean up the walls, even if you can't see it there is probably pee on more than just the ground.
Edit: Once you get the using the boxes properly I would just invest some money in having the carpets steam cleaned, you can even just rent a small machine and do it yourself to save on the cost.
You don't think something like this would work?
https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Rubber-Liquid-Bottle/dp/B008O9X3KS/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008O9X3KS&pd_rd_r=9D6T0RD8HMF2DZBYE2S5&pd_rd_w=6LeVi&pd_rd_wg=p2Umo&psc=1&refRID=9D6T0RD8HMF2DZBYE2S5
Even as a placebo?
I strictly use Sodium Percarbonate for cleaning brew equipment. I was using OxyClean but felt it was getting too expensive. You can buy 10LBS of Percarbonate on Amazon for $25 shipped free with Prime. I use 1-3 TBSP per 6.5G carboy, depending on how stuck the dried krausen is. Some people buy bulk tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) and mix it with percarbonate to make a "DIY" PBW. I haven't seen the need for this addition yet, though.
Sodium Percarbonate
Trisodium Phosphate
Just an update for anyone else scouring the web for this answer...
My Dr recommended washing my clothes with Simple Green. I'm also going to try this cool hippy Peppermint soap my wife just bought from Costco - seems magical.
Peppermint Soap
Simple Green
Problem solved.
This device keeps the bowl clean without risking the seals in the tank.
I picked up these Windex electronic wipes at Lowe's or Home Depot or something a year or two ago, they work great for cleaning screens and stuff! I wipe down everything electronic with them, TV, monitor, laptop, including the outside case, keyboard, and trackpad. I usually hit the keyboard with some compressed air first. Works great and I haven't had any issues ever!
If Iso doesn't work i usually go:
http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM
(this can be found @ the dollar tree)
Then (If need be):
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Acetone-Remover-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B0006PS3KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774484&sr=8-1&keywords=acetone
Haven't used this brand, just acetone in general.
Lastly for hardwater/bloom:
http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX
(Publix/Walmart or any other basic market)
Put some of this ok the carpet and wait ten minutes then vacuum.
Arm & Hammer Odor Eliminator for Carpet & Room 30 oz (850 g) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014B36HS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ehMBwbSVQHRRA
Do all laundry. Including sheets. FeBreeze the snot out of mattress and couch. TAKE OUT THE TRASH. Clean your sink tub and toilet with bleach.
After you finish building and doing the primary paint, put on a coat of Future (that is the brand)- it will be shiny, but this will help protect the model and let you decal and weather it easier. After you get the decals on and your weathering (including panel lines), you can go shiny with another coat of Future, or go matte (normal) with a spray matte finish ($few at your local model store, or here is the one I like).
Buy your own stick-o-almond!
for those of us in the states, what is this stuff?
I found this stuff on amazon, seems similar to the stainless steel anti oxidizing gel you're talking about. Seems mildly acidic? Would be careful to not get this anywhere else other than shiny stainless steel parts. I would be worried it would take off the chrome plating after a few applications on a chrome plated part.
This appears to be the Duraglit product on sale here.
This is awesome
as is this
and finally this
:-D
I have been slowly buying tools this year, based on what I need for basics. So far, this chain cleaner has got a lot of use. I also bought a gallon of simple green degreaser. This is concentrate so it should equal roughly 20 gallons as long as i dilute it. Also gets bar tape super white.
What you do is clean the chain, clean the cassette/crank with degreaser and brush, then lube the chain. The less grime in the chain, the longer the drive train will last.
I also bought a cassette sprocket and chain whip and will occationally (once every 1000 miles or so) take it off and give it a nice soaking and try to get it as clean as possible.
I get the black stuff in my master bath toilet.
Only thing that has worked for me is weekly cleaning with a toilet bowl cleaner that you can spray up under the rim and a brush that can get under the rim too.
I had plumbers out for something else and they said it was the water supply, which I believe.
I’ve just ordered Ka-Boom kit. Heard it helps with under rim and ring stuff.
Supposed to flow thru the holes
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPEO64G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IjRSCbJD59C4S
Good luck
Soap is a lipophile and works decently for most oils, but if you have a significant amount of it or a stubborn stain, I have used Lestoil. It works for a lot of different stains and is great for things that have set in. Use the hottest temperature water that the garmet can take in the wash cycle. Good Luck with it!
Except for Sprayway. Sprayway is fucking awesome.
They also make a stainless steel cleaner.
This stuff worked pretty well to draw the eye away from the smaller scuffs and scratches:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006ZN9OS
Or there's always these. Co-workers ask to borrow my "poop mints" http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019SPNQ8/176-3393169-4320710?vs=1
Chose SS and buy this:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/aw/d/B0102K3NLU/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3CHM81UIR1WEG&psc=1
This could also be useful someday:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/aw/d/B071YZQ47L/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2B8ZQ36QCQY1Q&psc=1
I used this stuff over a year ago and it worked just great. Its very heavy duty stuff so wear safety goggles and gloves etc.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=12949413
or
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019KSUG6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Personally, I've pretty much stopped using canned air for dusting unless I have to, as I was sick and tired of sneezing and dusting all of MY equipment after I finished with customer equipment (also, it's pretty gross when you think of what that stuff is). Personally, I think water is a bad choice. A single drop gets where it doesn't belong and you potentially release the magic smoke.
My professional opinion is vacuums/cleaner wipes are the way to go.
For the vacuum, you don't want to use your home vacuum, as the air going through the tubes generates static electricity, and static+computers=bad. Metro Vacuums has a line called DataVac that are ESD safe. I own the middle option both at work and at home.
Low volume - http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW
Medium volume - http://amzn.com/B00MU2DE36
High volume (This one can use HEPA filters that can block toner particles, a must if you plan on cleaning laser printers/copers. The other units can't filter the tiny particles, and the supposedly make their way into the motor and chew stuff up, and aren't good to breathe either) - http://amzn.com/B000RMQJBK
I also use generic electronics cleaner wipes (like these: http://amzn.com/B004GCUJWM) to get all the smudgy stuff off of laptops. For the really grody ones, clorox wipes. I just don't hit the screen, and I usually follow up with an electronics wipe, as the clorox wipes leave streaks.
edit: I know the vacs aren't cheap, but canned air is freaking expensive too. At $3 a can, the ROI is pretty short on these vacs if you do much work on computers. I always clean any computer/server that comes across my workbench, as it just makes working on them easier, and improves customer satisfaction. I think of it like taking your car into the dealership for an oil change and finding out they washed and vacuumed it. It's just pleasant, and it takes less than 5 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/Windex-9154352-Electronics-Wipes-25-Count/dp/B004GCUJWM/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468990202&sr=8-1&keywords=windex+wipes+electronics
That's what I use.
There is a product called Wet and Forget which is intended for removing moss from asphalt shingled roofs. You spray it on and the moss dies in a week or two. After that you can clean it off with a stiff brush.
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https://www.amazon.com/Forget-10587-Gallon-Mildew-Remover/dp/B0019KSUG6/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI86D7s5D84wIVyODICh2cZQqGEAAYASAAEgKdTfD_BwE&hvadid=295256781038&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9001696&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12003339133195892382&hvtargid=kwd-569407853241&hydadcr=24661_10400816&keywords=wet-and-forget&qid=1565571528&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Here is the mobile version of your link