(Part 2) Best household cleaning products according to redditors

Kaboom toilet cleaning system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0TZKE

I have not scrubbed a toilet in six years. Refill with 1 inch pool tabs bought in bulk. I quietly laugh at people who scrub toilets.

I bought a giant jug of it off Amazon. I also bought some beeswax pellets. I usually condition with just the mineral oil, but every now and then I'll instead use the 'board butter' I made (melt beeswax and mix in mineral oil, allow to cool). Total cost was about $35 but I now have a fuckton of mineral oil and board butter.

Beeswax

Mineral Oil

Also, this stuff is great for other wooden utensils or dishes you might have in your kitchen, such as knife handles, spoons, and salad bowls. Mineral oil also doesn't go rancid, unlike olive oil or coconut oil.

There's still hope for us.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014D2BKY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1481912529&sr=8-1&keywords=bleach&pi=SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41rah5qQo7L&ref=plSrch

Amazon guarantees this by XMas still

This can be dealt with.

Here are a few options to consider. First, Zinc will help with the stink. You can take a Zinc supplement AND use a topical ointment on your feet. If you decide to take a Zinc supplement, don't take it everyday and be mindful of your copper levels. OptiZinc has copper included although you want to supplement even a little more. The ideal zinc-to-copper ratio is 10:1.

• Boudreaux's Butt Paste Maximum Strength Diaper Cream
  
  This works very well because it contains 40% Zinc. One of the highest you can find. I've used this on my feet with success and I've even used it on my face before to help with complexion issues and it never dried me out. I think using daily on your feet would be fine although I wouldn't recommend putting it on your face every day. You can find this in Walmart in the baby isle (where the Pedialyte is located). Start with a small amount and rub it in. A little goes a long way with this stuff, you don't want your feet feeling greasy all day.
  
  
• Crystal Body Deodorant Stick Deodorant
  
  I bought this because I was looking for safer deodorant options. I was amazed at how well it worked on my armpits (much better than traditional deodorants containing aluminum) and the upside for you is, it even specifically mentions being used on feet to treat foot odor. I haven't done that but I imagine it would working swimmingly.
  
  
• Nature's Way Chlorofresh
  
  
  This product is along the same lines as BodyMint, but much cheaper. It is typically used to deal with bad breath that originates from odor created in the gut, but it has also been used to treat general body odor as well. I recommend starting with the top 2 recommendations first but considering this can be tried for only ~$7, it may be worth just adding it to your odor fighting stack.
  
  
• 10-Seconds Deodorant & Disinfectant
  
  I was told this is the product that bowling alleys use to disinfect the bowling shoes. I bought a can sometime ago when I was running and wanted to keep my running shoes from getting rank. I can't find it right now but I seem to recall a warning about harmful/caustic chemicals coming into contact with skin so use this one carefully if you decide to try it. You should be disinfecting your shoes anyway since it sounds like your issue could be bacterial or fungal, seeing as it spreads so rapidly to new shoes.
  
  
• Drymax Run Hyper Thin No Show Socks
  
  I got these for running and I love them. They are super light and are made from a breathable mesh. The thicker your socks are, the more likely your feet are to get hot and begin sweating. These are a bit expensive but you can think of them as an investment that pays dividends.
  
  
• Mini Moso Natural Air Purifying Bag, Charcoal
  
  These are designed to naturally remove odor. I keep them in my shoes when they're just sitting in my closet. I assume they are working because my shoes don't stink. They are cheap and got good reviews on Amazon. Check 'em out.
  
  
  In conclusion
  
  I believe if you are washing your feet thoroughly, making sure your socks are clean and your feet have some Zinc ointment rubbed into them (or the crystal deodorant applied) and your shoes are properly disinfected and dry, I think you will see an appreciable reduction in foot funk if not a complete eradication.
  
  Good luck.
  
  

This stuff is what I used in case anyone else wants to know.

I was at my local headshop today and saw it on the shelf and asked about it. The guy told me it was magic and I should try it.

I can confirm it is magic haha

I haven't tried it yet but it came up in another thread. There's toilet bowl cleaners that attach directly to the fill valve so the cleaner never goes into the tank.
Church & Dwight 35113 Kaboom Toilet Clean System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0TZKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xNauDbZ5YT2BR

here you go boys https://www.amazon.com/Clorox-Bleach-Regular-64-oz/dp/B0014D2BKY/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1493177559&sr=8-4&keywords=noose&th=1

I went through 2 that I found out were cheap chinese knocks offs. Heres the good you get with pax:

Company behind it is actually reliable and consumer friendly. All this weed/vape shit is still the wild west. Pax stands as a company that has actual customer service and a well designed website that sells replacement parts.

Sleek looking as fuck and well built. Seriously, if someone you don't want knowing you smoke weed sees this they are more likely to think portable battery than vaporizer.

It does its job well and reliably. Not much more to ask for.

With that said if you get one get this pack(or something similar with good reviews) https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1541730768&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pax+2&dpPl=1&dpID=41fnvMi-VlL&ref=plSrch

Its literally night and day.

I haven't seen this particular product, but the label looks like it's a non-permeable plastic outside. Is the underside "paper" that's "glued" to the container? That would be a tricky combo.

I've been able to use peanut butter (yes, peanut butter) on most labels with sticky glue (the oil soaks in and dissolves the adhesive).

If the outer surface prevents this, there's always the Nuclear Option®.

For those wondering, use this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE

It does not corrode like normal simple green.

Why? Do you rub your fingers on the screen often? :-)

Smitty's Glass Wax might do well but not 100% sure it's safe for bare (matte) flatscreens — I'd guess it is — nor if it might leave things a little shiny.

Works great on glossy touchscreens and sometimes on glasses though I've found it's more of a pain than it's worth to use on optical lenses more than occasionally. Does seem to cut down on fingerprints etc and make fingers glide better for a while.

40 lb bag of marshmallows: $198.56/64,799 calories = $0.0031 / calorie

Human body: ($8.70 + $13.99 + $2.42)/81,500 calories = $0.00031/calorie

human body win every time

[is this what you're looking for ](Clorox Bleach Regular, 64 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014D2BKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AQIlyb646MQZS)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vND2CbCY3R54F

Best $10 I have spent in a while!

wrap material ended up being like ~800$

other things i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QXZJP4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07516WFGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J31T262/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LVB8AIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QW6ZTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQN5GO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Follow link to delete user

Fix it!!!

I found this last year and tried it on my mafex Batman and it worked!!

how to

link to floorcare

Hope it helps

Haven't used this myself yet, but I remember someone in a different post mentioned Smitty's Glass Wax as working pretty well. Smittys Glass Wax https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qXeeAbEA60958

Here's something for yours

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014D2BKY/

I sprinkle a little Gold Bond Extra strength medicated foot powder inside my lifting shoes when I take them off. Seems to be working.

Warning, keep this powder away from your junk.

I guess this spray could also work?

I had good luck with Meguiar's plastic polish. I did it by hand but if you've got a rotary or orbital tool you can save yourself a lot of arm strain. This reminds me I've got a before and after shot here.

https://smile.amazon.com/Smittys-Glass-Wax-Blister-Pack/dp/B004N1P3GI

I've used this for a long time. It feels similar to oleophobic but only lasts a month or two with regular use. That being said you get tons of applications out of one bottle and it takes like 2 minutes to do.

here a link

Try goo gone? It worked for me. Get some on amazon here

Not OP, but have T/A. I use this Chemical Guys spray after washes which gives it a nice sheen and removes spots. The only pain is that the surface is supposed to be cool when applying so can’t really apply on an afternoon wash.

Other than that the matte isn’t too bad, just shows spots real easy between washes. I have a few green spots bleeding through on the top of my bumper from rock chips unfortunately too.

A Dollar Store tooth brush works well scrubbing out the dash buttons and recesses on the shifter.

Get some microfiber cleaning cloths at BB&B

I like this stuff


https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Phosphate-Industrial/dp/B0039ZBLEC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8GQ01XSPGK0PB437QQHN

Windex on leading edges. Dissolves bug guts with ease.

Glass: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/aeroplexall.php

100LL or kerosene on the belly, cuts through petroleum-based grime like none other.

Simple Green Aviation anywhere else: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE

For a super quick waxy shine, I slather kerosene on the paint and wipe dry. Leaves a deep gloss finish that looks nice for a day or two. Good if you want to show the plane or you know people will be taking a look.

MAAS, it's milder than Flitz and can be used on gold finishes as well as nickle.

Side note, something like this would probably help make your entertainment center look a bit more polished, as well as some cable management: https://smile.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5?sa-no-redirect=1

I've used something similar to this on some cherry wood before and was very pleased with the results. They're not PERFECT but you'd have to get up close to notice.

Amazon sells the stuff they use in bowling alleys for shoes or something similar. I used it for a pair of boots that I couldn't pass up. I'd imagine, too, that sandals (if they're open enough) would be a little bit safer at least with regard to athlete's foot than something enclosed.

Cleaning related to Noro from the CDC Note it says bleach must sit for 5 min before wiping off to be effective. You probably want to order one or two of these for your house this winter and a case for the center. You may also want to remove any toys that can't be submerged in bleach for 5 min, etc or scrubbed with those wipes for a min or more for 2-3 weeks from last sick kid.

I will totally hope for your but it usually gets everyone, consider quarantining yourself as much as possible this weekend. Symptoms come on suddenly, don't trust a fart. Some businesses, etc will call in professionals to clean to address more thorough cleaning to help stop the spread. Once sick you get over it, but there are 100s of unique viruses in the family.

I would try soaking them in a degreaser solution like Purple Power or something similar that isn't solvent based.

Something solvent-based might react with the balls' polymers.

Never used it, but maybe this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002VAZ34

specifically autosol https://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Metal-Polish-Chrome-Copper/dp/B003PHLTOG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=autosol&qid=1574489575&s=automotive&sr=1-2

​

not sponsored no affiliation. experience has taught me this works well for your problem.

Some clear gloss would make it pop.

I recommend pledge, but you'll have to cover it to keep the dust off while it dries.


Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pmcZDbE4FPEK2

You can get it cheap at Walmart. My bottle will last a decade. Put some into a dropper bottle to prevent accidents.

If you ever end up with some infuriating scratches on your epoxy countertop you can polish it out.

https://www.novuspolish.com/ -or- https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/

I do a lot of work with plastic, especially epoxy. And both of those product lines are great choices.

Try this it's more effective

10-Seconds Shoe Deodorizer and Disinfectant - The Only EPA-Approved Shoe Disinfectant effective against Bacteria, Fungus, Mold, and Mildew https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I think the mineral oil I got is pretty safe. It's Food Grade Mineral Oil it can be safely used on you skin. Also most baby oils are basically just mineral oil so I think not all mineral oils are carcinogen or harmful.

Added a new item to my Christmas list

I would get one of these for the toilet. That mostly takes care of the inside of the toilet. As for the seat and rim a pre bleached wipe would take care of that. As for the rest of the bathroom, keep a mop that you use only for the tub and bathroom counters and use that to clean everything else. You can finish and entire bathroom in 5 min or so if it's not caked on dirty.

Wheels can be the time consuming part, but the most fun.
My set-up for wheels & tires:

Tuf Shine Tire Brush:
This is better than Mother's Tire Brush, just does the job better. Obsessed Garage talked about it, it's bound to be good.

SuperClean Degreaser:
I like this one because the smell isn't as strong as Meguiar's Wheel Brightener, and I can use it for both wheel and tires at once. Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing recommend this one and it's hard to look back after using it. Buy a small bottle first before buying a gallon to see if you like it.

Wheel Woolies:
I hesitated to spend $50 on these brushes, but after buying them I had no regrets. You don't get the splash back from other wheel brushes.

Black Wash Mitt:
I used to use this one but I find that using a black microfiber mitt for the face of the wheel and in between the spokes made it a lot faster, and you can get behind the spokes too. But that brush is useful for lug nuts though.

Creeper Seat: This is a nice to have if you're working on a flat surface. Nice to have but not a necessity.

They're probably referring to how you posted the link.

Much cleaner if you have the link text in square brackets, followed directly by the link URL itself, in parentheses.

[link text](Url here)

E.g Metal polish

Nevrdull and a very fine steel wool worked well for me.

Simple Green 13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VXU7OE/

This stuff works wonders
https://www.amazon.com/FORMULA-420-PIPE-CLEANER-CLEANSER/dp/B000ZH8UU0

For the mineral oil I buy it by the gallon off amazon but any food grade mineral oil is pretty much the same, just make sure it's not scented.

I buy the beeswax locally at a farmer's market but any food grade pure beeswax should work fine.

The oil you linked is just mineral oil with a little bit of beeswax and some vitamin E oil. It's pretty much exactly the same as what I described just with a low ratio of beeswax, probably something like 1:6 or 1:10. Perfectly fine to apply a board butter over it.

I messed up the paint job on my resin mini with a gob of sealer. I used Purple Power cleaner; soaked it for 24 hours and it didn’t dissolve the mini. Here’s a link: https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

http://www.amazon.com/Autosol-Edel-Chromglanz-Metal-Polish-Metallpolitur/dp/B003PHLTOG/ this is what makes my GTI exhaust shiny like new

For sure. Ospho takes the gloss out of your topside paint and makes it all chalky, which makes the soot from your stacks stick even better. This doesn't take the gloss out, but we only use it on rust streaks, not general cleaning. For general wash-down, check out Purple Power. This stuff is so much better than CitruClean, Simple Green, or Ospho. It wasn't on our approved list of chemicals for the longest time but we would buy it with our own money and bring it to work. Pro-tip: finish your wash down with some of that spray-on/rinse-off wax like they use in the carwash, and you won't have to work nearly so hard next time. My last boat was 130' long and we had a crew of 4. That's a lot of boat to clean.

Nevr-dull and/or a cape cod cloth.

http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409715034&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr+dull

used this in the Navy on our brass

Shit is like magic.

https://www.amazon.com/FORMULA-420-CLEANER-CERAMIC-CLEANSER/dp/B000ZH8UU0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3W4HRXVQIS71&keywords=formula+420&qid=1563970566&s=gateway&sprefix=formula+4%2Chpc%2C167&sr=8-5

https://smokea.com/collections/formula-420/products/formula-420-original-glass-cleaner?variant=13759588335718

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=pd_aw_fbt_79_img_3/144-2581927-8156301?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=8978aceb-0cae-406a-b1cd-3c285e2b4aef&pd_rd_w=OrcmB&pd_rd_wg=CmJBX&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2&psc=1&refRID=4WRMPY5DDAV2JSD35WV2

SuperClean has worked wonders for me! I soak my models for 48-72 hours then go at them with a denture brush. Paints easily strip off while the primer remains intact. It can also be useful to dismantle models. After about a week or two of soaking, you can pull apart a model like you're separating lego pieces. So far, I've only used it with GW plastic, but for that, it works great!

Goo Gone adhesive remover or rubbing alcohol over 90%

use this

https://smile.amazon.com/Pledge-FloorCare-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=sr_1_46?keywords=PLEDGE+POLISH&qid=1568061587&s=gateway&sr=8-46

works as a sealer as well if you do customs. do multiple coats until you get the desired tightness. cheap and will last you a long time.

I bought a new 50th Anniversary Camaro, which has a Matte section on the hood. I've been searching and reading the wiki, and just want to verify or get better recommendations than what I think I've found.

I first need to wash the car with a matte wash, so I don't get any glossifiers or waxes on the matte section. I found Chemical Guys CWS_995_16 Meticulous Matte Auto Wash, but wasn't sure if there were other recommendations.
After that, I should use a matte sealant like Chemical Guys WAC_203_16 Blue JetSeal Matte Sealant and Paint Protectant.
Then for touch-ups use Chemical Guys SPI_995_16 Meticulous Matte Detailer and Spray Sealant.
With that done, I should tape off the matte section, and care for the rest of the car with regular wax, clay, and sealant as covered in various threads and the wiki here. For the tape, I see some recommend 3M 233+ painter's tape, while others say CarPro Masking Tape. Is there a significant difference between them?

Does that sound correct?

Just did the whole engine bay a few months ago. Use simple green extreme aircraft cleaner. It is the fucking tits and doesn't hurt aluminum like other cleaners. Spray it all over the engine bay, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes (the longer the better). I took it to a non-busy self-serve car wash, took the battery out, covered the distributor cap with a plastic bag and had at it with the pressure rinse. Be careful of spraying directly into electrical connectors, as they are 20-25+ years old, however, they are engineered to be around water.

I use Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, which doesn't have some of the corrosion / embrittlement problems of regular Simple Green. Works great. Might be evil to the environment.

Yeah it works pretty well. Soak the label and the whole thing and all the sticky will come off easily. Like nair for overly sticky stickers

Edit: this should be a link?
Goo Gone Original - 2 Ounce - Surface Safe Adhesive Remover Safely Removes Stickers Labels Decals Residue Tape Chewing Gum Grease Tar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VNtvCbT3PJTX0

Scrubbing Bubbles & hot water worked in with an old toothbrush followed by some Maas metal polish. This combo has never failed me.

I use super clean, works well, let the plastic soak for a day, then brush them under warm running water with a tooth brush.

https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Multi-Surface-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Concentrate/dp/B0039ZBLEC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538956711&sr=8-3&keywords=super+clean

Gorgeous! You should get a set of those furniture markers and color in those nicks, it'll look brand new. I say that because I just got a set of them and have been having so much fun tidying up all my wood furniture.

Same. Except I got mine from amazon. I wonder if I can use the original screen with this one laid over it ?



Jianuo Adjustable Sandwich Pusher and 3D Bottom Screen for pax2 & pax 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7RLWF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_FUD3BbM9GRE13

I would.use the simple green safe for aluminum version.

https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Aircraft-Precision-Cleaner-13406/dp/B001VXU7OE

I also use dish soap for a lot of things.

Blue Funnel and tamper: https://www.amazon.com/Quintessentialz-Funnel-Custom-Tamp-Tool/dp/B074PBBFFM/ref=sr_1_3?gclid=Cj0KCQjww47nBRDlARIsAEJ34bkKrQqyPjC4wXgPgvF20m4A7dwH7EtaiK0CzGelnaQ3Fh_oNxhUS8AaAllXEALw_wcB&hvadid=261954288188&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021407&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8235567249276677294&hvtargid=kwd-431825393667&hydadcr=24663_9649017&keywords=pax+3+funnel&qid=1558467524&s=gateway&sr=8-3

And I no longer used the half pack lid. I use a sandwich pusher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[$24.10/gal, food grade mineral oil](UltraSource 501333 Food Grade Mineral Oil, NSF, 1 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNI1JI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_EaW3wbW6M47GC.)

Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NUDvCbQYT6FKQ


Applied through an Air-Brush in very thin coats.


Used it on my knights.

Knight house WIP https://imgur.com/gallery/2AZswdv

303 Aerospace should work great it's a cleaner and protectant, but you might also like Nextzett which I posted above.

For matte paint/PPF I would recommend Chemical Guys Meticulous Matte Quick Detailer: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_995_16-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948037&sr=8-1&keywords=quick+detailer+for+matte

For towels, I like:

Plush for cleaning: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQYCKE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Miscellaneous Disposable (not for dirty surfaces since they are low plush): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00937YLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Waffle weave for drying: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_781_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B00BQYCIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535948166&sr=8-3&keywords=microfiber+drying

Lint free for glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it's probably just dirt. get yourself some of this stuff. and a good microfibre cloth and spray it on the cloth and wipe clean it. don't ever spray anything directly on your machine, you can liquid damage it, and don't clean the computer w/ anything other than this stuff. (this is just my professional opinion, i'm sure that there are other cleaning products out there, but i will only use iKlear)

harsh chemicals in commercial cleaning products will damage the finish. you can use iKlear to clean the outside and the screen, but again, spray the cloth, not the machine.

https://www.amazon.com/iKlear-8-oz-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538346259&sr=8-3&keywords=iklear

70% isopropyl alcohol and pipe cleaners are your friends. This stuff works well and is easy to use: https://www.amazon.com/FORMULA-420-PIPE-CLEANER-CLEANSER/dp/B000ZH8UU0

There are wood markers like this that would work. I found that usually more than one marker color blends best.

https://www.amazon.com/Furniture-Repair-Kit-Wood-Markers/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d29vZCBtYXJrZXJz-ac_d_rm&keywords=wood+markers&pd_rd_i=B073WJTNH5&pd_rd_r=ddaaa8ad-a040-4b21-a81b-7a2e9e4417d7&pd_rd_w=HTu6g&pd_rd_wg=2sJbk&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=6BWJ8HZXZPJ3QC8BY7W0&qid=1567301480&s=gateway

There are shoe disinfectant sprays, if you were okay with buying something. About $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/10-Seconds-Shoe-Deodorizer-Disinfectant-EPA-Approved/dp/B000QCOF1M

try this

If you have issue with *any* stain on glass use Super Clean .. its not specific for glass i believe and i use it on any stubborn grime/dirt/etc..



Source : i have very hard water 280 PPM , contains sulfur ..(btw i dont use it for my aqua.)

Oleophobic coating definitely wore off on my s8+ as well as my note 8. Bought a glass wax (Smittys Glass Wax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1P3GI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_726RAbSGKDHXM which brings back that slick feel again. Upside is it only takes a few drops per application. Downside is the coating seems to only last around 3 days.

Am curious if there is a more permanent solution.

Looking great ! what cleaner do you use for your wipe down? I have been using this one http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI99516-Meticulous-Detailer/dp/B00FQHY64S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453325921&sr=8-1&keywords=chemical+guys+matte in between washes, mostly for bird poop.

You should be able to find either it, or an equivalent like Flitz I think. If not, its on amazon. You want to make sure you get the cream variety like this

Might be too much if you're only cruising once a year but:

Clorox Healthcare Hydrogen Peroxide Cleaner Disinfectant Pre-moistened Wipes (50 Count) Plus Bonus Storage Bag
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PCL434/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RAKWCb8D3BYYP

OR you could get the HUGE container of the same stuff, then package the wipes yourself into ziplock bags!

Saalfeld 30824 Clorox Healthcare Hydrogen Peroxide Cleaner Disinfectant Wipes, Kills Norovirus, Rotavirus, HIV, Poly-bag Protected, 6.75" x 9", X-Large Wipe (Pack of 95) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K3U1B64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jCKWCbPAVSS7R

http://www.amazon.com/Nevr-Dull-Metal-Polish-Bci/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375128714&sr=8-1&keywords=NEVR-DULL + some steel wool yep.

Do yourself a favor and pick up some Chemical Guys matte wash and detailer. I have a 2015 Gunner with the matte green finish and that stuff works wonders. Don't need a lot of the wash either to get the job done. Also, don't go cheap on some good quality microfiber clothes, with the matte finish, don't have a whole lot of protective coating so can easily be scratched.

Get yourself some Never-Dull. It works really well but keep your expectations realistic. If you have green oxidation on gold hardware it will never become pristine as it was new.

https://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526056262&sr=8-3&keywords=never-dull

I like the Pledge Floor cleaners for gloss. The regular multi surface cleaner is good, but you might want a product like this.

way way way overpriced https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNI1JI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try this [metal polish] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PHLTOG/ref=s9u_wsim_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B003PHLTOG&pd_rd_r=d024c262-1427-11e8-bd6b-0356965b604e&pd_rd_w=ixH6S&pd_rd_wg=Bqydw&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=860ZGQ6SR0TNNDBRSMF2&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=e6624b56-7cc1-411f-9d12-9cc8feb6c214&pf_rd_i=desktop) OP.... It's what EK has recommended in the past!

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QGZXCS

That stuff works great on metal and headers, though you might want to tread more carefully on painted and finished parts.

I would try kerosene first, personally. Won't wreck anything you didn't intend to get it on, degreases wonderfully, and evaporates cleanly.

they advise you not to add anything to the tank if you don't flush often because it ruins the seal. I use this, it sends the cleaning chemicals right to the bowl, not through the tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0TZKE/

I don't like bromine or whatever those tablets are, I just use it for the system. I end up cutting these in half, perpendicular to the colors, so I get two half white and half blue tablets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJVPDF4/

I get them from target now, since amazon has stopped selling them for the price I want. These clean the bowl with the bleach and die the water blue with the other part. does a good job of keeping stains out and killing bacteria so it doesn't smell atrocious.

it is not a cure all though. you will need to flush it every now and then.

I agree. For all people to accept encapsulation, the highest priority is visibility. For my slabs, I use clear 3x4 inch plastic bags, so all the handling damage happens to the bag, not the slab. Then, when it's too scratched to satisfy me, I simply replace it. Here's a fairly comprehensive link to all the info you need to get the right bags:

• Where to find recloseable bags for slabs?
  
  There are ways to polish the slab plastic to get the scratches out. Meguiar's plastic polish is one way. Search around and I'm sure you can find other suggestions for ways to polish the slab plastic. Then, when it's done, put it in a clear bag instead of handling it directly.
  
  Check out ggoodluck2013's (new, ending, sold) listings on ebay. He almost always has something in stock that has the coins embedded in clear Lucite.

I believe it's called Super Clean?

Purple spray bottle.

Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B0039ZBLEC?tag=adapas02-20

Shit is ridiculous, cleans anything off anything. My engine bay is spotless, all my caps and every piece of plastic and whatever it cleaned like new. I even used it instead of sandpaper to remove paint from my hood scoop before plastidipping.

I've been using this on my lights and rear window (convertible). It's fantastic!

Just a heads up - you have to get rid of the referral portion of that Amazon link. Against sub rules. You can format Amazon links by typing http://amzn.com/###### where ###### is the ASIN (found in the product description). Your link should look like http://amzn.com/B073WJTNH5

Great product, though. I've used those touchup markers in the past.

I bring it to a "do it yourself" car wash. Make sure the vehicle hasn't been running very long and give it 5-10 minutes with the hood open to cool the engine down. I then use a cheap and widely available product called "Super Clean", it comes in a purple bottle. This stuff is the absolute best degreaser on the planet, it is an exceptional product. Anyways, you very liberally spray down your entire engine bay, avoiding the sensitive areas (alternator, plugs/coils, distributor) and let it sit for a few minutes.

Then go put a few quarters into the pressure washing machine, and turn it to the high pressure water rinse. Start very carefully rinsing off the engine bay. DO NOT directly shoot the water into the engine. Stand back quite a ways (5-6ft) and think of it more as a high pressure mist; which will indirectly, yet strongly, rinse the degreaser off. Trust me you do not want to shoot high pressure water into your spark plugs/coils and start to get cylinder misfires and other annoying shit to fix. It is really an easy process, you just need to take your time and be very careful.

After this is done, bring the vehicle back home to the garage and let the engine bay get completely dry. This process can be sped up by using an air compressor and blowing all the water off, or you can just let it sit half a day with the hood open. Once dry, take Armor All and wipe down everything: plastic, hoses, caps, tanks, and covers. Now your engine bay is free of dirt and grease, and has a nice shine to everything making it look brand new. Potential buyers absolutely love to see this and it will significantly help you in selling the vehicle.

Plastic bag over the the alternator. Then I gave the whole engine a quick rinse with a hose. Then I soaked the whole thing in this and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I scrubbed everything with a few different brushes and rinsed it off. Dried everything with compressed air and dressed it up with this

The way we do it for all of our Retina displays is to use a Toddy cloth (read a review here), which has a microfiber side for cleaning and a silk side for polishing (this is key for a mirror finish!) and iKlear cleaner fluid, which is what I've heard AppleCare technicians use themselves.

Using the iKlear fluid on the microfiber side first, then polishing with the silk side, gives a display completely free to streak marks or swirls. Now you'll never be able to stand a dirty display!

When sanding what should I look for to know I'm done and that topcoat will be enough to cover the remaining scratches? I dont want to under or overdo it.

How important is a topcoat before panel lining? I've seen people say Tamiya can hurt the plastic.

I've also seen this (Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0eCwDbFDB8MV2) recommended for a glossy topcoat since it helps the panel liner flow but how do I put it on? Do I just buy a sprayer to screw into the top?

Is there a paint/enamel thinnning guide anywhere?

goo gone maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Goo-Gone-Original-Adhesive-Stickers/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=asc_df_B009M14C4S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242071853242&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3464479488354272015&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006783&hvtargid=pla-406530958981&psc=1

I highly recommend 420 Cleaner; it's effective and efficient. You'll most likely find it at your local headshop, but if not you can get it on Amazon.
If you're a baller on a budget, rubbing alcohol (preferably 99%), salt, a couple ziplocks (to shake it around), and few pipe cleaners will suffice.

For anyone interested, they also make a "710 Cleaner" (OIL upside-down, I recently learned), which is made for oil rigs and/or any other apparatus used to hit concentrates.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QCOF1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FvHhAbQ94A6EV

Yes, bleach will damage rubber gaskets causing them to leak prematurely. Don't use bleach in the tank. As an alternative, I recommend systems like this which release bleach into the bowl only. (Don't purchase via Amazon though -- you can find it much cheaper locally.)

>Ok that doesn't sound too bad or expensive, actually sounds kind of fun, maybe I'll make it a hobby, supplement my income or use some to trade my RAD might get in the way of that though.

Danger! This way be dragons. :)

>Where can you get those polishes, I have never seen those particular ones?

I buy them locally at an ACE Hardware, but if you can't find them locally you can get them on Amazon: Flitz and Maas

>Also how did I do value wise, are any of those valuable or anything? Did I spend too much?

Let's see...

I think you took a bit of a bath on the third lot with the Red Tip. The Techmatic doesn't get any love because it's not all that pleasant to shave with and even if it were it's not exactly easy to find replacement cartridges for it. The Valet Auto-Strop is also not going to bring a whole lot. They're not bad shavers, and that gold one at least can take regular SE blades if you pop the spine off of them, but they're basically filler razors that people use to pad out lots. If you get into collecting at all seriously you should basically value them at $0 when you're figuring what you're willing to pay for a lot because you'll end up with a shoebox of them without even trying.

Take that other lot, for example. The way I'd look at that grouping is to immediately discount the Christie and the clippers as just somebody else's junk. That particular Auto-Strop requires special SE blades with a knockout inside the blade, so it's even less desirable than usual. So you're left with the Flare Tip Super Speed, the Ever-Ready 1924-patent "Shovelhead," and the brush. The razors are both good shavers, although the Super Speed is missing at least one end cap -- not an issue from a functional standpoint, but it hurts its value. The brush looks like a decent little travel brush. The old knot is probably shot (though maybe not) but it might be worth reknotting it if the handle were nice enough.

Still, you're only into the lot for $25 shipped, which is fine unless you're looking to flip any of it. Figure about $10 each for the Super Speed (dinged for condition) and the 1924, a couple bucks for the brush, and a couple bucks for postage and you're at fair money.

I'd say the other two Super Speeds are about the same -- decent prices for your own use, not great if you're looking to resell them.

I use something called NEVR-DULL. It works really well but after a little bit of driving it's extremely dirty again.

http://www.amazon.com/George-Basch-Never-Dull-Wadding-Polish/dp/B000QGZXCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409091693&sr=8-1&keywords=nevr-dull

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

MEGUIARS #10 and #17

new bottles, same stuff.

I bought the Clorox Hydrogen Peroxide wipes because they kill noro.

https://www.amazon.com/Saalfeld-30824-Healthcare-Disinfectant-Norovirus/dp/B00K3U1B64/ref=sr_1_25_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523206379&sr=1-25&keywords=clorox+wipes

I use this matte cleaner by Chemical Guys on the matte finish on my Patrol. Works well.

Autosol Meisterrennen!

We had a similar issue but not as bad. I purchased a Toilet bowl Cleaner System. It is a small container that holds a toilet cleaner tablet and it is installed on the line that fills the toilet bowel. So every time you flush it sends a little bit of cleaner chemical into the bowl. It worked great for us. Kaboom makes them but the tablets can get expensive. I purchased our generic system from Ebay. Also I use the bromine tablets instead of the chlorine tablets because they smell to much for me but some people like that chlorine smell, also from Ebay. Here is a link.

Amazon! Can't believe I didn't think of that. I buy everything on amazon. Head is not on right today.

Been using this product for years and can vouch for is ability to make your Mac screen (and iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch) look heavenly. It's also used by the tech department where I teach to maintain the hundreds of computers and tablets in use by students and faculty. 1, 8oz bottle last a long, long time.

iKlear 8 oz Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HOHxCb4C2XQ21

I've seen Punished Props use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002644N2Y/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=puniprop-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B002644N2Y&linkId=0dd92aa28dd3c4e766df1ae3813889f3

Personally, on my props I use floor polish (I should add that this specific floor polish is the only one that I've tried and that others recommend. It used to go by the name 'Futures'):

https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-FloorCare-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=pd_sbs_121_1/135-5370935-5487910?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00J5HDC4A&pd_rd_r=f1dd7f20-283a-11e9-898b-bde429f25e46&pd_rd_w=VMAgN&pd_rd_wg=Ulbje&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=JKJH4AHQKV0HQ9K713F4&psc=1&refRID=JKJH4AHQKV0HQ9K713F4


Also keep in mind that a top clear coat will affect the look of the paint job. Do a test piece first before going ham on your precious final pieces. Trust me, you want to wait until your test piece is fully dry and then check it for flex cracks, discoloration, or other imperfections that the top layer might have caused.

There's no paint job I've not been able to get back down to the metal or plastic with Purple Power. At most I'll have to brush it a couple of minutes with an old toothbrush.

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

You can find this at automotive stores like Auto Zone or O'Reilly's.

Just a note: I found the exact same thing on Amazon UK for practically the same price (when you factor in eBay postage fees) but prime eligible for those of you with Amazon prime accounts like me.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-249765-Multi-Function-Rotary-Tool/dp/B000OODN8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459115167&sr=8-1&keywords=SILVERLINE+249765

And the autosol metal polish for £3.18 also prime eligible
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Autosol-Edel-Chromglanz-Metal-Polish-Metallpolitur/dp/B003PHLTOG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1459115390&sr=8-6&keywords=Autosol+metal+polish

Yeah it’s purple. Used to be called Castrol super clean, now it’s just Super Clean.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SuperClean-101786-Cleaner-Degreaser-Trigger/dp/B0039ZBLEC

They changed the name of it again, but this is what you want: Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish

 

You can airbrush it directly from the bottle for gloss, or add Tamiya's flat base a few drops at a time until you get the desired semi- or matte effect. I've used this numerous times with both Tamiya and Vallejo paint under it and no ill effects whatsoever.

Bonus: you can dip clear parts in it too.

For those in the UK:

iKlear 8oz Cleaning Solution for Apple Devices, HDTVs, Plasma & LCD Screens in Spray Bottle

Yep.
Pledge FloorCare Multi Surface Finish - 27 oz - 2 pk https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HDC4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wna.Bb9527X7Y

Try a headlight cleaning kit.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY


OR Meguiars plastic cleaner and polish
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

Hi - nothing ruined I bet - we've all been there. There is a product known as Purple Power, as well as some other brand names depending on your location, that you can soak your model in to remove the primer. Be very careful - it's a degreaser and it's safe for basic styrene but will take a toll on your skin. ;) Soak the painted model for several hours - most if not all of the paint will be removed and you can start again. You may not need to remove all the existing primer, just enough to get a good smooth new coat on. There may be other products or methods out there, I bet you get a lot of helpful replies - you might try google as well. Good luck!! Post up when you've finished the model! :)

https://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

​

There may be other products or methods out there - you might try google.

this one?
https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-101786-Cleaner-Degreaser-Trigger/dp/B0039ZBLEC
I need a point of reference as this shit doesn't ship to where I live...

Keep that glass feeling like new! But seriously, this stuff is the shiznit. It makes all my glass surfaces feel like I just took off the first screen protector.

Edit: My phone has been totally naked (save for a case to protect it from drunk me on the weekend) since I got it in March. One impossible to notice scratch. Overjoyed with the quality.

Can someone recommend a disinfectant that would be effective, yet "safe" to use in shoe insoles & linings? Something more powerful than just vinegar and water, but without harmful solvents? Common products, such as Lysol and this shoe disinfectant contain alcohol.

SimpleGreen eats aluminum, so it's not a good idea to use on bikes. There is an "aircraft" version that is safe on aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-13406-Aircraft-Precision/dp/B001VXU7OE

I'd just use dish soap and an actual degreaser, that being said.

Yeah, that's pretty much the order. Some guys will throw extra layer of gloss here and there, for example between panel lining and decals or after those if they're weathering. That's personal preference though.


As for gloss - it often depends on what you can get locally. Most cost effective option is airbrushing FFA, if you can get your hands on it. As for spray cans, Mr.Topcoat is often recommended. I've had a good experience with it so far, though it is a bit pricey for the amount you get. I'll probably be decanting and airbrushing it for my next project.
If those don't work for you, most other major paint manufacturers like Tamiya, Vallejo, AK, Testors and so on have a gloss coat (sometimes called varnish) in their lineup.

I think I'd rather spend $12 and buy some bromine tablets

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0TZKE/?coliid=I3RKUO7KIAJIU8&colid=2LHVFS3D88QY3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/SuperClean-Multi-Surface-Degreaser-Biodegradable-Concentrate/dp/B0039ZBLEC

You should be able to find a vinyl polish at the auto parts stores, follow directions on the bottle and test a corner first like it probably tells you to.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

Something like that.

This

Or this

Both of which are available at your local grocery store or Walmart.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1P98GK/- the purell stuff that claims 30 seconds

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWBTPRE/ - this is the last pack i bought of the hydrogen peroxide wipes it says norovirus 3 minutes on it. Some people are reporting the plastic tube ones (the kind you get most such wipes in) no longer lists norovirus at all, so be aware of that. Those are here of you want to get them anyway: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K3U1B64/ i don't know if its a new formula or new tests or what the deal is with the change

https://www.amazon.com/Clorox%C2%AE-Hydrogen-Peroxide-Disinfecting-Cleaner/dp/B00C3H5J04/</span> - thats the spray version of those wipes. again. my bottle says 1min noro kill on it but i bought it a few months ago.

I still might bleach if i knew for sure something was directly contaminated and that it COULD be bleached but a lot of things cannot and using it gives me a migraine which makes me n sometimes so i avoid it when I can and these products can be used on way more. Bleach is still the CDCs go to (BUT MAKE SURE ITS DILUTED) but these things all claim to work specifically on noro on the package.

https://www.amazon.com/Clorox-Bleach-Free-Sanitizer-Moisturizers-Alcohol-Based/dp/B00DDZMLLK/ - thats my go to hand sanitizer but its pricy. There are other ones too: my-shield, zylast, and germstar noro - they are pricy too though

I am looking for a natural oil finish and I want to avoid toxic substances and fumes. I tried food grade white mineral oil but the surface is still greasy a week later (its possible i did not put it on correctly). I saw some forum posts that people claimed its because mineral oil is a non-drying oil and it will always feel that way. So far this is what I have come up with Tried & True Oil and Walrus Oil has anyone used either of these or have other suggestions?

Thanks for the comment. I want it to be one uniform color and not be able to notice the epoxy whatsoever, though. I was thinking of getting some wood-colored markers like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/

Then, match the color a little better before another coat of stain. Would that work?

Honestly, you should try this. Worked very well for me.

Autosol is a godsend for taking off rust spots from chrome or any corrosion from metal. I use q-tips or papertowel to apply and buff it on. It also leaves a protective film.

Use disposable gloves as it's not particularly good for your skin, though.

He points out something really important though. People, not just the poor, deal with this every day. You ever walk into a bathroom that someone just used and smell their shit and be like, "fuck, I'll come back later" and turn the fan on?

Or how about buying clorox tablets for your toilet bowl so it "automatically" cleans it every flush? And then realize it has that strong bleach smell afterwards that's in some cases just as bad as smelling other odors? Nevermind the fact that those tablets can damage the rubber gaskets in certain toilets.

So what to do about it if you live in a first world country but don't want a better toilet cleaning system? Well you basically need to buy a toilet kit that uses bromine tablets. For example, the Kaboom auto cleaning system on Amazon thats cheap with Tropi Clear/SpaKem 267 tablets will all do the trick with no odor. Or you can get the more expensive professional NeverScrub system, but a lot of contractors use the Kaboom system.

Compare all that with replacing your pipes that can neutralize odor. Hell installing copper pipes in your house for heating already costs 100 times more than this.

Maybe Autosol or Autoglym? I'm not sure.

I found MAAS on Amazon.co.uk

Any car wax can work. I've had good luck with this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-10-Plastic-Polish-Cleaner/dp/B0002VAZ34

Just apply it like car wax, let it dry, and wipe clean with a clean soft cloth.

tho either way if you do decide on getting one i recommenf either getting these or this b/c the filters they come with are not that good. personally i got the plate one and that works just fine. tho the capsules are nice just for convenience.

Goo Gone. That will remove almost anything.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M14C4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8s9WCb0WD1XM1

I have been using iKlear Apple polish for years. It's great for all my electronics (iPhones, macs, etc), though I don't use it on the display of my MacBook Pro or iMac. For the computer displays, I use a lint free cloth and water. It works great on the iPhone display, but once it's on the display of my MacBook or iMac, it seems to leave smudge marks, which must be removed with water and a cloth. I'm guessing it has to do with the coating on the computer displays, which is not present on the phone's display. I also use it to clean my glasses!

https://imgur.com/a/VAsnkoW

I have duraseal medium-brown stain on my floors. We used the markers below, but I know other companies carrier their brand specific/special markers that work too.

I actually use the oak color on my floors, wait 5 seconds and wipe away with a rag after. I found the walnut (which is similar to medium-brown) is too dark for the scratches. I plan on using some old English, I’m just terrified if it doesn’t work.

Furniture Repair Markers Kit - Set Of 13 - Markers And Wax Sticks With Sharpener Kit - For Stains, Scratches, Wood Floors, Tables, Desks, Carpenters, Bedposts, Touch Ups, And Cover Ups - By Katzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WJTNH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fLMSCbTZNQMNP

Disinfecting wipes!

I don’t have any overdue library books. Thanks for the contest!

Yeah. I'm currently using the Lysol deodorizer/disinfectant spray.

Normally I use 10-seconds shoe spray. [Amazon]

These are the wax sticks I tried:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WJTNH5/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It helped a bit but is still very noticeable.

​

If it helps, the scratch did create a bit of a lip on each side.

​

Any suggestions are appreciated!

You could try polishing with some Autosol

Oh my.

Dry washing the car is definitely going to lead to scratches.

Not washing your car is going to lead to paint failure faster than if he protects his paint.

Rust is a valid concern, a lot of antique cars aren't washed with the 2 bucket method for fear of water puddling and creating rust in a spot that the owner won't catch till it's too late. If he feels that strong, consider rinseless washing.

Slinging polish around with a PC means that you put too much polish on the pad. It's tiresome holding on to a machine that is essentially sanding down a minor amount of clearcoat, but the shine is worth it.

Swirls will happen, even with proper use of the two bucket method. But they can be minimized greatly with proper washing techniques.

Is the stripe vinyl? Something like CG Meticulous Matte Detailer & Spray Sealant can be used to clean it and seal it.

Just making sure as I'm looking to buy it now, is this the stuff you're talking about? https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002HU5N4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467397544&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=purple+power&dpPl=1&dpID=513n07SB5AL&ref=plSrch

Also how would I dilute it, just with water? If so, how much should I dilute it? Sorry about the questions I'm very new to this stuff

On the rare occasion that I thrift shoes, I hit them with some of this.

It doesn't look or feel as nice because the factory-applied oleophobic (oil repelling) coating wears off over time. I just tried this stuff and so far I love it. It cleaned the screen and restored the slickness that makes new phones so nice.

I have the matte silver variety. I did a lot of research concerning keeping it clean.

This stuff right here is amazing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And for the love of god, don't wax it or use anything that will get into the pores of the paint. Place I bought mine from has two used streetys with glossy washed out matte paint jobs because their previous owners tried to polish them.

Yes, I exclusively use the sandwich pusher. Provides enhanced vape and what feels like an even heat distribution -bud gets used up well and increases the amount of draws. I average ~25 per with it.

HEre's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7RLWF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also suggest the carrying case. Yoda travels well with minimal oder. Link for that, too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KQOAJKK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

the Case is a bit pricey but it has a top compartment that can hold ~5 grams bud and it's a solid construction, meaning it will last me quite a while so it's worth the extra bucks.

I just got some Smitty's Glass Wax. So far, it's helped keep fingerprint smudging down.

I have something like this but I won't buy shoes if they're really nasty :P

Quick google search brought me to this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ZH8UU0/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I usually use Klear Screen or iKlear. Works great on screens and the body of the laptop, even works on pencil/pen/dirt/ect.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: MaasMetalPolish


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|




This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

I am in the Facilities Maintenance department and I fully support and back this post and all recommendations. It's true and accurate on every level. Mainly on keeping the equipment clean and our kitchen staff often forgets UNDER and BACK of the equipment which includes the floor drains, so keep them clean and clear. The kitchens I work with are about 18 months old and all the equipment new for several kitchens but into operation or about 10+ years into use for several other kitchens, so this has been a challenge for the organization I work for and the team that I am on.

I done near freaked out when seeing a new dishy squeegee a bunch of scraps at the Hobart into the floor drain. You want fruit flies? Because that's how you get fruit flies. And clogs. Use a enzyme treatment on a regular basis if you have floor drains to keep them clean and clear of clogs.

This also avoids any rank odor to emit from the drains and/or the respective grease trap(s).

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bioclean+drain+cleaner&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=7971424659&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15174809577464155145&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6ejvbxtwdb_b

Also, a product called "Purple Power" which can be bought at Amazon or Walmart is what our staff and even our hood/panels/exhaust/fan steam cleaning vendor uses.

I introduced it to the kitchen staff only after supervising a hood cleaning and grime/grease covered hoods went with one swipe to being sparkly shiny stainless steel. Notable difference. It's concentrated so you can water it down and dilute for daily use, but more concentrated when doing a full major cleaning. If it's thick gunk, let it rest for 5 to 10 minutes to let it penetrate at full concentration. Then simply wipe off with a cloth towel.

Periodic power washing also helps if you have a dishy trained to do so if you can't hire a full time kitchen maintenance person.

http://www.amazon.com/4320P-Industrial-Strength-Cleaner-Degreaser/dp/B002HU5N4O

I can't tell you how many times the Sous will call me about "Shit's Broke" when most of the time it's because shit isn't kept clean. If you don't have any manuals for your larger equipment, especially Hobarts and other dishwashing machines, get one and follow the manual as to daily operations and cleaning. It takes time, but in the long term the extra time and payroll will keep shit operating when you need it to, especially during weekend rushes, and save a ton in the long run when your equipment is down and the out the ass money it costs to replace parts and the labor when calling in a vendor. Especially when it's an emergency call and the tech is charging time and a half for the OT.

Edit: If you can hire a dedicated person, make sure they know how to repair Walk in coolers and other refrigeration needs. Shooting in some fre-on doesn't always repair a fucked up compressor. Considering how vital it is to keep product at the right temperatures, this is a required skill.

Edit 2: words

Edit 3: Wanted to note that the under and behind can be done once a month or every two weeks contingent on volume and schedule. Doesn't have to be every night. Just don' let that grimey grease shit build up. If you do let it build up, it costs more in time and money (worse than that, down time during peak rush) than keeping shit clean via preventative maintenance.

Do not get the half pack lid! What is way better is a pusher. You can adjust it to any amount of weed. Also it being flat is way better than the curvature of the stock lids. I think the curvature packs the weed so it doesn't allow any airflow.

I've been accused of being a shill on here hired by pax or an amazon seller to push these products. In response to that I say, keep using your shitty half pack lids you imbeciles while I get like 50% more efficiency with my mods of the vented lid and pusher combo! Puff it bitches! But yeah the bottom metal block that replaces the screen makes for a good thermal mass that vapes better.

https://www.amazon.com/Jianuo-Adjustable-Sandwich-Pusher-Bottom/dp/B07C7RLWF4

For years, I have utilized Klear Screen Spray and a Micro Chamois Cloth. I use this combination for both screens (TV, phone, laptop, tablet) and laptop/tablet keyboards.

My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.

As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.

I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.