(Part 3) Best lab & scientific products according to redditors
We found 4,084 Reddit comments discussing the best lab & scientific products. We ranked the 1,634 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
![wisedry 5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel Packets Rechargeable Desiccant Pouches with Color Indicating Beads Reusable Moisture Absorbers Bags for Gun Safes Closet Tools Storage Food Grade](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41vsBTbGC9L.jpg)
Here's the test I bought. It comes with two testing sticks.
I collect cast iron. Most of the time if the pan has been used for lead casting the patina/seasoning will be completely destroyed and that's a good indicator. However, If I'm extra suspicious and paranoid, which I am most of the time, I'll use a 3M lead test kit to test multiple pans at once, finishing by checking the kit against the control they include. That'll let you sleep at night.
Will do! Thanks for bringing this to my attention!
Edit: Just ordered a Lead Tester kit from Amazon, https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519776303&sr=8-4&keywords=lead+test+kit
Will keep everyone updated!
Not a great idea... Go buy something like this instead.
Collecting games and systems can be a very exciting and rewarding hobby. I would start by picking a collecting goal before embarking on this journey. Here are some items to consider.
Here are some links you may find helpful.
Good luck and have fun!
I water mine with this: ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE, Squeeze Bottle Medical Label Tattoo (250ml / 8oz / 1 Bottle) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6M-BDbHY9AXQJ
It’s awesome!! Good luck 👍
Apartment or house? In a house, keep the games in the driest, most temperature-consistent part of it, probably your basement. Either way, invest in a small dehumidifier. Some people also swear by silica packets for mold prevention, stash a few in each of your game boxes.
Iron Oxide
+
Aluminum Powder
-=
Thermite
Have you considered an Erlenmeyer flask? I bought several of these $12, made by Pyrex and dishwasher safe.
https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flasks/dp/B004XR5VMI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478888519&sr=8-1&keywords=erlenmeyer+flask+1000ml
has anyone used this style for butt washing? most ul bidet solutions are just nozzles that attach to water bottles, but I cant get over the mental hurdle of getting my water bottle near my asshole everyday. thinking I want something with a dedicated bottle: ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE, Squeeze Bottle Medical Label Tattoo (250ml / 8oz / 1 Bottle)
​
how's the squirt? what size would be best? any lighter options (this one says 1.12oz)?
You're not stupid or a fool, you're naive to growing plants- stupid and foolish people don't ask questions so stop putting yourself down or be hesitant to ask questions or ask for help. You can PM me or others if you're a bit shy about public posting.
My first grow lights in 1995 were incandescent "plant bulbs" which, of course, didn't work out too well. That was so naive but I very quickly learned and moved on through the whole gamut of plant lighting and trying different types of reflectors.
I don't recommend the following method to this extreme but as an amusing anecdote my first plants all died because I wanted to see how plants work and we learn more in our failures than successes. I would pour a little table salt on them (this would induce osmosis problems and interfere with potassium uptake), over and under fertilize them, shock them with a high voltage power supply (would the whole plant die or just this one branch?), put a clear plastic bag over them so the relative humidity would be 100%, try different soils, slowly heat the soil up until fungus problems occured and do other types of "failure mode analysis". I couldn't go online and ask for help so this seemed like a logical way to learn. It wasn't until my wife (at the time) insisted I knock it off and actually flower them out ("damn it, you promised me buds!") so for the first 6 months or so I just worked on how veging and cloning worked.
You can not reliably fix or even diagnose nutrient problems without having a proper pH since an improper pH can cause nutrient uptake problems. I use pH test strips since there are no special storage techniques, no calibration issues, can test a single drop of solution, accurate enough, etc. Only get the pH 5.5-8.0 version of pH test strips if you go this route, not 1-14 version which are not accurate enough. I don't know why some hydro shops sell pH 1-14 test strips.
Don't love your plants to death. The harder you push a plant the more likely problems can occur.
Sample containers:
௳ The bottles with the green flip-caps are from Amazon (~0.5oz/15mL each, $21.99 for 36).
௳ The little pots with screw-on lids are also from Amazon (3mL each, $7.99 for 50). I wound up making 2 pots for each sample because they were a little smaller than I had imagined (Starfish Lord, grant me the presence of mind to look at dimensions before ordering things), so next time I might get these slightly bigger ones (5mL each, $10.00 for 50).
Decanting supplies:
௳ I used these plastic transfer pipettes (3mL, $4.50 for 100) to decant anything that I could suck up with them.
௳ Anything in a pot was decanted using these wooden spatulas ($22.98 for 500); I put 2-3 in with each potted sample and kept the rest for myself. (Forgive me, my Spiny-Skinned Savior, for lacking the diligence to wash and dry my plastic spatulas after each use; pray accept my disposable compromise or guide me to a better way).
Baggies:
௳ The small ones are from the Container Store (2.5” x 3”, $0.89 for package of 10).
௳ The larger ones are from Wegmans, but similar ones are available at Target (3.5” x 5.5”, $2.24 for 64).
Markers:
I tested a lot of different markers before I found some that didn’t smear/smudge/wipe-off and that could withstand the watery trials of the bathroom counter. From my own stash, these three worked:
௳ Gold: Montana Acrylic Extra Fine Point (0.77mm) Marker in Matte Gold (Metallic) (available from Dick Blick for $5.35).
௳ White: Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Extra-Fine Point Marker in White (available from Joann for $2.62).
௳ Teal/peacock blue: Derwent Graphik Line Painter (acrylic, 0.5mm) in Brilliant (available from Dick Blick for $3.96).
That is the wrong way to learn about growing. It's costly and slow. Just watch some YouTube videos and go try. It's how I got started. I knew 0 about growing anything 6 months ago. Now I've got a successful crop and have a single tomato plant with over 20 tomatoes on it and many bell peppers growing, okra, pablano peppers, raddish, lettuce, basil, potatoes, kale and brussel sprouts. I've only spent about $200 too.
Most Helpful links/videos:
Intro to NPK: https://youtu.be/-gtFvhEjA3o
This is a great intro to nutrient deficiencies and effects on plants and how to diagnose: https://youtu.be/9SotrCwqfHo
Cheap Vinyl Downspout grow box: https://youtu.be/bYhwJIarjQ0
Pool noodles instead of rockwool, rocks, or cups: https://youtu.be/rFQiDbkjxY4
Common Veggie EC and pH: http://www.homehydrosystems.com/ph_tds_ppm/ph_vegetables_page.html
Easy to use nutrients:
https://www.amazon.com/MASTERBLEND-4-18-38-Complete-Combo-Fertilizer/dp/B072F2BL9D/
Cheap good EC meter (EC is shown in μs/cm instead of the more common ms/cm, as in above link, so the EC shown should be divided by 1000 to get normal EC numbers; it's easy, just remember when it shows 2300 EC, that's an EC of 2.3, or 700 is 0.7. Also note I've found with all these EC meters you need to dip and then swish them around in the solution and then read it, otherwise it will read inaccurate due to tiny air bubbles on the probes) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FPG89CE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Cheap good pH meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R4FMYY4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Easy micro greens, which you use to sprout seeds you want to grow or eat as micro greens:
http://imgur.com/gallery/VARfNoo
ReUse 2 disposable plastic food containers, a cheap poly wicking cloth, and your choice of grow bed (dirt, coco coir, whatever)...
Stack the two containers.
Make 2 long cuts in the bottom of the top container thru the lid of the bottom container, along the 2 longer sides.
Push the cloth thru the 2 slots, such that it's layered across the bottom of the top container and the ends are hanging in the bottom container.
Fill bottom container with water.
Place grow bed material in top container on top of cloth.
The cloth wicks up the water and keeps the grow bed moist. You don't have to water it but maybe once every two weeks and can leave the micro plants there for staging plant growth every couple weeks cause they will grow slow. If you don't use dirt as the grow bed, you will need to replace water with a weak nutrient solution after three or four weeks.
YES!! I am on the boric acid bandwagon too!
The best part about boric acid is that it treats both BV and yeast infections. It is easy to get, you don't need an Rx, and it is not an antibiotic so you don't have all the side effects. It is not hippie pseudoscience. It has been scientifically studied and proven effective 70% of the time. I've not had BV, but I do get yeast infections a few times a year and boric acid has cured them every time.
Buy this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TWtGxb2V3EV12 as well as size 00 empty capsule casings. Fill up the capsules with the powder and shove one as far into your vagina as possible right before bed. Do this for 7 nights. Wear a pad because there will be some discharge.
You can then use them once or twice a week indefinitely to keep the bacteria balanced. Many people find relief from this. I highly, highly recommended it.
I keep these in with my ammo, it may help.
Accurate Coffee Intake Device
Is there a problem with me just buying this and experimenting with different oils to see what works better?
Edit: This would probably look better wouldn't it...
Be sure to test with LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack. Colored pieces from China typically contain lead but sometimes you can find a piece without. I highly recommend only getting clear pieces from China whenever possible.
Finally I can't not sound retarded tonight! Yes!
Check our /r/diy_ejuice great community lots of info and recipes!
Order the nicotine and your STARTER flavorings from
https://wizardlabs.us
Order either 60 or 100mg pg based(if you aren't allergic) nicotine for math reasons, they both calculate pretty even. Also the 100mg one will last a lot longer but it kind of depends on what is in stock.
For the flavors it's best to order your beginning ones there too until you know what you like,because they sell like same size ones for $1.99 (prob about enough for 80-140 milliliters depending on your preferred flavor %
once I knew what I wanted I started ordering from high desert vapes
https://highdesertvapes.com/categories/DIY/
(they resell flavorings so you get a GOOD discount)
P. S. On HDV ellas=capellas (you have to order ellas sweet strawberry, my most ordered and one of my faves. I also recommend fruit stripe gum, but I forgot who made it it's a newer one I just picked up!)
Don't forget to order syringes and I accidentally ordered a shit ton of size 14 needles for them and it's really hard to pull up VG since it's so thick so get a bigger one for that. Also make sure before you use them that you put tape over the numbers because they will come off really fast if you don't.
I actually buy all of my PG and VG locally Walmart sells VG (if you are interested let me know and I'll send you a pic of what the bottle looks like) but it's in the skin ointment aisle.
Tractor supply company sells a gallon of PG for $23 best deal ever. I'm never running out! Lol
You'll need bottles as well (way more expensive than you'd think, there are some cheapish options on Amazon for like 50 10ml bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D2MPVUM?pc_redir=1395300206&robot_redir=1
Download the program ejuicemeup that's your calculator. Love it.
http://ejuice.breaktru.com
Uhm.... I'm probably forgetting something any questions, just ask.
Edit: holy novel
Edit 2: I remembered something else, try and get familiar with the list of flavors known to crack tanks
http://discountvapers.com/liquids-and-tanks/
Edit 3:links!
whaaaat? thats not possible! haha, i have a pair that is really pointy, BUT, they dont "grip" and when i'm trying to pull something out, it just slips right thru... i need a pair that HOLDS! ive gotta find out what kind these are!
EDIT: adding a link - wonder if these would work?! http://www.amazon.com/Marrywindix-Tweezers-Non-magnetic-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454113263&sr=8-1&keywords=precision+tweezer
I have fallen completely in love with pens and their portability/strength. I use one of the 510 batteries from Curaleaf (free on first purchase) and I bought refillable ccell cartridges from here and syringe tips for easy refilling. I am able to control the temperature and length of hit perfectly. The taste is great and I do not experience that awful taste like I did when I used atomizer-based vapes, if that's what you're referring to.
For shatter I will use my Yocan Evolve, when I can get my hands on the stuff...tru shatter sells out right away!
You could buy silica bead packets like these or collect them from whatever items you get them in otherwise and keep a couple in a ziploc bag with your WIPs to keep moisture out? I like the idea of dryer sheets too, they come out smelling great!
You have to order the boric acid and the capsules separately. I bought Humco boric acid and capsules like these-- definitely go for the vegetarian capsules, as they are less likely to irritate your vagina and will dissolve cleanly.
If you're in an apartment, you're not going to be able to make any permanent modifications, meaning that even with a safe in general they could walk out with it (though I don't know what size of safe you have). My first instinct was hardcase with padlock holes (say, pelican), add dessicants to deal with any trapped moisture (check and bake as necessary!). Then get some relatively thick steel security cable and run it through the padlocks and around something large and heavy (chunky part of bedframe, desk, etc) to make it harder to just walk off on you. Preferably do this in such a way that you can hide the case as a result.
Or, if you're worried about it, willing to spend the money, and are planning on using the shotgun solely for trap, get a storage locker in a self-store facility that allows firearms. Or check with your trap range to see if they rent lockers for storage.
For those of you whom would like to make one of your own you can purchase the magnetic stirrer hot plate here ($210), and the Pyrex Erlenmeyer Flask here ($15.95)! Total investment cost: $225.95.
Alternatively you can purchase this magnetic stirrer hot plate for significantly less, bringing the total cost down to $175.90.
Not full to the very brim, just full to the fill-to-here line. It's obviously a graduated beaker rather than a glass, per-se. Otherwise, how would we know it was exactly half-full, rather than slightly over, or slightly under half?
Before you do anything, I'd recommend purchasing and using a leaf test system. Lots of options out there like these swabs from Amazon.
LeadCheck LC-2SDC Disposable Non-Staining Lead Detection Swabs, 2 Per Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mPT5xb89MTY71
If you do have lead on the chest, I'd recommend removing the paint all together instead of painting or sealing over it. Obviously using a mask when you sand the old stuff of and using a collection system for the dust rather than letting it fall over your workspace.
Cleaning up lead paint is a task, and if you are inexperienced in the process you may consider taking it to a proffesional to have it completed. It would be a very cool project to hold onto for future generations. Good luck.
Have you already ordered?
If not, I would also recommend Capella's Cool Mint (3.5% as a pairing, ~1% as a component). It is a very sweet mint that also adds body to mixes; almost like a mint honey. It is good to have on hand and would work well with several of your proposed recipes. That's different than say Gorilla Mint which is the straight-up mint you know in Mojitos or Inawera Shisha Fresh Mint that gives a dry but tasty cooling effect (not koolada) with little to no flavor (think TVC's Frosty/"Cool" juices).
One of the most common intermediate questions here is "How do I give my juices body?" Cool Mint is one of the flavors that does that well. Passion and stone fruits often have the same effect at very low levels, as can /u/Mercy404's suggestion of Strawberry Ripe in the right mix (which opens a whole other conversation on popular flavors vs affects).
You may also get some sucralose. It is a different type of sweetener and some people prefer it. It is harder on your coils, but it doesn't mute the flavors like EM. I use them both for different recipes.
[edit] - On the sweetener subject... I'd suggest using them at first. Building sweetness and body is really difficult. I don't consider any recipe complete until it is absent of sweeteners, but they certainly make them more enjoyable for regular vaping until you find those last 'special' bits.
_____
Second, you are going to want A LOT of bottles. Just trust me. One of your primary concerns when starting should be to make mixing fast, fun, and extremely low maintenance. A big-ass bag of new bottles is an excellent, cheap step in that direction. Down the road you may want fancy Cobalt, but something like this is perfect to start.
___
Lastly, I do not see a scale in your order. I HIGHLY recommend you begin mixing by weight. I can't stress that enough. It is probably the single most important factor in how much you will enjoy mixing and the likelihood that you'll stick with the hobby. I have been mixing a long while and I've used all the different methods. Mixing by weight is soooo much nicer. It is faster, easier, more accurate, and there is zero cleanup. Most people will tell you that they started mixing more often once they switched. I personally found myself wandering away from the hobby until the switch. I had become tired of the cleanup and mess. Now it is pure joy again.
It is also cheaper than your alternative hardware budget. Even if you brush off everything above, please, buy a cheap scale.
Washing my face while getting everything wet irked me too, so I looked on ebay and found my solution. I nowuse a "lab wash bottle" with a bent spout. Mine is around 500ml. Here is one similar @ amazon. I fill it up once then turn off water at sink. Once I wipe off my oil cleanser, I lather up my foaming cleanser in my hand & after massaging my face to clean it, I just bend over sink and point the nozzle at my face & squeeze bottle to rinse my face. It's super easy & I don't waste water. No wet sleeves or floor. :)
I use these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DJ-XBbB511XK1
And these
https://vapepenswholesale.com/collections/empty-oil-cartridges/products/black-ceramic-tip-vape-cartridge-glass-tank-ccell
Coupon code: VIPVAPE15
Gets you 15% off
Edit:
Don't waste your money on the Truclear warmer
Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Da2OCb005Q4BQ
1ml oral syringes are my go-to for accurate volumetric dosing.
> It's not easy to get aluminium this small
Made a crapton of it in high school 25 years ago with a drill, a 1/2" aluminum rod, and a bastard file. Took a while, but it was pretty fine powder. Any more, you don't even need that. It's $23 for 2lbs on Amazon
>Rust isn't ideal as it doesn't tend to be pure iron oxide.
It is when you decompose a chunk of wrought iron in a solution of sodium bicarbonate and water using a model train transformer. But again, not really necessary nowadays with it being $13.50 for 5lbs on Amazon
Wow, take a look at the "Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought" section for those two products. It's a complete grocery list for juvenile miscreants. Even has the magnesium ribbon.
As others have said - Sailor/Whaling art.
Without removing the paint --- and for the benefit of the person appraising
​
Do not clean - patina might be important to the value.
​
(A) find a place that is missing paint and get a picture of the wood grain - and type of wood
Tight grain - often means very old wood, or old things, loose (wide) grain means newer wood.
​
(B) Local hardware store might have a lead paint test - it is a simple chemical test, the type I've used turns RED if lead is present.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I
LEAD was commonly used for paint - it's not totally hazardous if you are careful with it. It is hazardous if you have a small child and the chew on this thing, or lick the dust off with their tongue - That said - lead was most commonly used for the color WHITE - ie: "White lead", in old nautical wood things you might find what is called "red lead" as a filler or bedding compound between pieces of wood.
I don't like Skurka's method. I use force.
Enter this bottle: [backcountry bedet]( https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=scientific+wash+bottle&qid=1572882853&sr=8-4 )
The top cap screws on perfectly to a smartwater bottle. That is the only thing I bring and I think it weighs .4oz. When I have to do the deed, I dig a hole, poop then have a smartwater bottle with this thing screwed onto the top. I just invert it, aim and blast my b hole. Using about .25L I can get squeaky clean in all but the worst conditions. I generally use 1-3 squares to dry up and make sure that I am GTG.
WAY more effective than just waterfalling down your ass crack.
Used 14g blunt tips and they worked great, cheap for 100: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1VO3E6
Yes, plus 5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
From what I have read Heated Ultrasonic Cleaners are the most efficient way to speed steep. You don't have to get a heated one, but then you have to switch your juice from a hot bath to the sonic cleaner a few times. I think people run like 3-4 cycles on the sonic cleaner.
But I just got a Milk Frother , and I plan on frothing, heat bath, frothing, heat bath to see if I can get my juice steeped in about 24 hours. I haven't tried it yet though.
Heat bath=boil a pot of water. Let the water sit/cool off for about 10 minutes, then set your open/aerated bottles of juice until the water cools. I can't imagine this would be such a great idea to do with plastic bottles, maybe consider transferring into a mason-style jar or something.
Last batch of juice I made I tried shaking my bottles, then doing 2 heat baths; it doesn't instantly steep, but about 24 hours after the heat bath the consistancy of the juice was that of about 1 week of steeping. So if your working with pre-made juice, this method might be enough to get you a little better flavor and buy you time for the bulk of your supply to steep fully.
Good luck sir!
I can't promise this will help, but I had an awful yeast infection or bacterial vaginosis (I didn't ever go to the doctor) that lasted months! I was trying everything: garlic, apple cider vinegar, greek yogurt.. you name it. I finally stumbled upon Boric Acid. That link is to some boric acid suppositories specifically marketed for BV or yeast infections, but I just ordered the boric acid powder and put them in empty 0 or 00 size gel capsules. I ordered it from amazon but they might have it at your local pharmacy. Either way, it was amazing. Seriously night and day after just two or three days of use.
I suggest putting the suppositories in at night, as they make you INSANELY wet.
Also, I'm not a doctor, but it does seem like you might have an allergy, IBS, or some kind of inflammatory bowel disorder. Maybe try a serious elimination diet and slowly add things back in?
Good luck!
Edit: here's a link to the regular boric acid powder and the empty gel capsules I just used a knife to dump the powder in the capsules, it doesn't have to be precise, you can do two if you can't get the capsules very full, it won't hurt you.
I totally sympathize! With my latest ex, I started getting yeast infections almost every time we had sex. It was horrible! He'd had a male yeast infection before we met, so I think maybe he was carrying some strain that threw my internal balance into chaos.
I tried all sorts of remedies, but the only thing that touched it was boric acid. There are some good instructions on this website. This is one of those old folk remedies that actually works quite well, and it not dangerous as long as you don't use it on broken skin or during your period. As the article says, DO NOT TAKE BY MOUTH. It is to be used as a suppository only!!!
I bought this powder and some 00 capsules. Insert a capsule right before bed so you're laying flat and everything tends to stay inside. Wear a light pad, because there may be some extra clear fluid in the morning. Not much, just your vagina's mucus membranes responding what's going on, and the melted capsule remains may also come out, though sometimes those seem to absorb or melt into everything else.
Best of luck, and I genuinely hope you find a solution soon.
Thermite is just aluminum powder mixed with iron oxide powder
You don't actually need a dark room, it's a common misconception. You only need that if you plan to use an enlarger and make your own prints. I don't, but only due to lack of space in my apartment - I scan them in and order prints at Costco or Bartells like any normal digital scan.
If you get one of the Paterson Reel tanks like I have in that photo, you just need a changing bag. Put your 1-2 rolls of film, a bottle opener, a pair of scissors, and all the tank pieces in the bag. Seal it up, pop open the film canister with the bottle opener, then spool the film onto the reels. Put both reels back in the tank and seal it up. Everything else can be done in daylight. (you can skip the bag and do this in a pitch black room like your bathroom or a closet if you want. I prefer the bag- I can sit on the couch and watch TV while I spool rolls).
Then you're just dumping in chemicals on a timed schedule and then unspooling and hanging them to dry when complete. B&W is roughly 13 minutes a batch at diluted 1+1, or 6 minutes at stock (full strength) solution. Stock just uses it up twice as fast, but saves time.
B&W = developer (12-15 minutes for most films at 1+1 - check the massive dev chart -> stop bath (1 minute) -> fixer (1 minute) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> hang to dry (2ish hours or until totally dry).
Color = developer (6ish minutes) -> blix (2-3 minutes) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> stabilizer (1 minute) -> hang to dry (2ish hours).
I'm pulling those numbers from memory, but the unicolor kit has a good guide with it.
Stuff you need
For B&W film - you use the 1+1 developer one time (150ml per roll of film) and dump it when you finish. Which means that 1L D-76 pouch gives you 6 rolls of film. I buy mine in the 1G bags to mix up as they're cheaper, but you need a 1G plastic bottle to store it. For color film that kit does 8-9 rolls of film. The bigger 1G kits are more expensive and you can also buy the chemicals separately. Color is picky because you need to keep it at a constant 103F the whole time or risk ruining them, hence the bucket (or a bathtub). Color developer and all other chemicals you dump back into bottles and re-use until it's used up.
The color film process is actually really well documented in the booklet that comes with the unicolor kit.
If you ever want a hands on trial, I can do a video of the process or a demo at my apartment (my fiance thinks it looks like I'm doing crazy mad science stuff every time)
Check out /r/analog for weekly advice threads or some of these helpful links:
If you're looking for bottles these have been working great for me and are super cheap. Someone on this subreddit linked them before, so thats how I found em. Good to know about mixing small amounts though. I've been mixing with 8ml to make sure the ratios turn out.
I use these tweezers on my semps. It’s [a little too] satisfying.
I bought all my materials from Amazon and I've done about 3 Mods.
Heres a little documentation of my 1st one.
Seiko 5 Mod; PAM Cali Dial & Sword Hands & some more photos
Some things that I suggest you get before starting.
Let me know if you've any questions, I'd be willing to help you out and answer them to the best of my ability :)
Cheers!
Do you happen to have a vitamin shop or a science supply store near you? I believe both of those should have similar caps, but I'm not sure about the specific threading and sizes.
Also: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I4BQXVW/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?qid=1459307392&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bottle+cap+with+dropper. Though that is a 12 pack of both bottles and tops. There might be something in the recommended section?
Definitely have to spray it! Most full-size bottles come with spray-nozzles-- you need to try out the scent the way its meant to be tried (a couple sprays at least)!
I recently transferred a couple sample sets to little spray bottles. I purchased these 5 mL atomizers and a million little pipettes to aid in transfer. Finally, I made little labels for them using a label maker. The atomizers work great and I feel like I can better judge the scents after dousing myself haha.
I bought some of these transfer pipettes and trimmed the end to be wide enough. I then flush my pens with soapy water first (bowl of water with a little dish soap) and then with clean water until it all runs clear. Easy peasy.
Edit: I stand my nib units up leaning on the tip of the nib (just the unit, not the whole pen so there's not a lot of weight on it) so the water runs out. I find the pens dry out faster that way. I absolutely HATE when I fill a pen with ink only to find there was still water in the feed... watery ink writing is a huge buzzkill!
Looks like three in my county so I'll be sure to call tomorrow but cant travel until the afternoon (work).
Based on the info linked, they were all wrinkly too. I just don't know if I gave them enough liquids.
I used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Transfer-Pipettes-Essential-Graduated/dp/B00WLIQHQ0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=plastic+pipettes&qid=1566439865&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWUJPUVUxOUExUjg3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI0MDI0U1dINEVLSjdNWDFDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxMTMzODdENlA3OUdUMVpWNTcmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Each got maybe half to 3/4 of one those (not full, just up the stem), 3 times.
They really haven't moved much since they settled. I'm just not sure if I should do something like try and stimulate or try and feed.
Also, im not sure about the heating. I have a lamp well above them. I have an infrared thermometer thats reading 89f on top of the tshirt that's currently covering them.
It probably wont drop below 75 tonight. I have them on my back porch, safe from any critters and not in the AC
For reference:
As for the mixing equipment, see below:
The pipettes are good to have just in case you only need to transfer a little bit of PG or get a flavoring that doesn't come in a dripper bottle. If you purchase from one of the three flavor vendors I referenced in my post, they will come in dripper bottles. You may never use the pipettes.
My personally recommended list of flavors to start with, aside from the flavors you will buy for recipes you find:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY_eJuice/comments/45ccfd/the_unofficial_list_of_flavors_for_beginners/
Just pick whatever you think sounds good on this list and you CANNOT go wrong.
Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7QjWCbJQ962VT
Just did the same thing this week! It’s been working out really well. I recommend getting some blunt tipped needles (I used these Lost ocean 100pcs Green Color Metal Blunt Tip Dispensing Needle (14G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1VO3E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tb3VDb0DYTGDJ) that attach to the end for injecting the warmed up oil into the cart to minimize waste.
Don't use rice, it will leave a gross residue that will get into all the books and crannies.
Use silica gel, like the packets that come in clothes and shoe boxes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fzVTDb5HMDS35
so, first and foremost, we're far more active on /r/RATS. (im basically subbed here to tell people this).
but, im currently going through this with two of my boys. They're both on antibiotics and an anti-inflammatory. What you can do in the mean time though, is take him into the bathroom and run the shower as hot as possible. Just hang out with him and let him breathe in the steamed air. You can dilute some honey in some water and feed that to him. I suggest getting a non-needle syringe. something like this. you can find them at pharmacies. You can use this to feed him water and the honey mixture. Dark chocolate is good too. there's some sort of chemical in that that helps them breathe. I also heard you can give him rosemary but ive never tried that.
The biggest thing that helped was firm tapping with my finger on the side of his body right behind his arm. Dean boggles now when i do this to him and he's not even really sick anymore.
This is definitely the recommended way to do it!
Also a related tip - for more portable dosing you can dissolve it into much smaller volumes (ie 10mg / mL), measure it out precisely with a 1mL/1cc syringe and store it in capped plastic centrifuge tubes.
That makes it easier you can hand out volumetric doses to friends, store them in your pocket for easy consumption later in the day, etc. I find 2c-b is one of the easier psychedelics to handle in social/public/crowded environments and it’s very redoseable, so it’s particularly useful to have a convenient way to take more on the go.
It’s also worth noting that 2c-b is a very hardy compound (like most phenethylamines) - it’s not as necessary to use any special water for it, it’ll stay potent dissolved in regular tap water for years. If you’re doing volumetric measuring with something more delicate like LSD then it’s very important to use water without any chloride, which will degrade it over time.
To add on to OP, a good solution for dosing in smaller tanks:
[Syringes](1ml 1cc Syringe with Luer Slip Tip, No Needle, Non-Sterile (Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6dnLybHRB4RVD) with blunt tips. They come in a range of sizes, but this one is good for 10gallons especially! I dose around 0.8mL twice a week.
I use this one http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419728850&sr=8-3&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
Works great. For water damaged electronics I mix denatured alcohol and distilled water to 80 percent. Finish with a quick dip into pure denatured alcohol and dry under a heat lamp.
I dont charge bench fees. If I bring the phone back to life I charge about 40% of the retail value of the phone.
If the phone got wet and still works but they want to be sure it doesn't get damaged further I charge a flat $45 for a quick teardown, scrub and wash.
I clean jewelry and stuff for customers free of charge while they wait for their phones. I use a different mix depending on material.
The only parts you should be putting in the USC is the motherboard or a daughter board with no microphone/speakers or plastic bits on it. You can wash frames if they are stripped of everything. A hot USC bath will fuck up all the adhesives so be prepared to strip those before hand and replace them.
USC cleaners can be harsh. Dont make the mistake of putting plastics in it. The heat and chemicals will do strange things to them.
I use a Kendal from Amazon. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Kendal-INDUSTRAL-DIGITAL-ULTRASONIC-CLEANER/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478232658&sr=8-7&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner+kendal
I bought this and it was fine for cleaning the BCG. You really need good solution for it to work well, something like Simple Green Pro HD is amazing compared to just soap and water.
I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:
5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z5SM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)
100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks
other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.
i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...
34F here. Got strep throat last year in September, took antibiotics, and ever since have been getting a yeast infection after my period every month. The hormone fluctuation of my cycle combined with imbalance caused by the antibiotic made it so my body could never really get right. It was ruining my life. Misery.
A hippy friend told me about boric acid and it has changed my life. It is effective for both BV and yeast infections in about 70% of cases (science, not anecdotes or holistic hocus pocus). I used it in capsule form up my hooha for 7 days to clear the yeast infection, then once a week for a eight weeks, now I just use one dose on the last day of my period every month. It is cheap and easy and here's how to do it:
Buy boric acid at the link below. Buy extra virgin organic unrefined coconut oil. Buy "00" size capsule casings. Get syringe from any pharmacy (usually free if you ask the pharmacist). Do not be put off by the warnings on the boric acid bottle, it is a very weak acid and many women are using it for this purpose! Please research further if you are unsure!
Melt about 1/4 cup coconut oil in double boiler or microwave till it is completely liquified. Remove from heat immediately. Stir in boric acid to make a thin to medium thickness paste. Let it cool to a lukewarm temp (too hot will melt the capsule casing, too cool will be too thick to fill them as coconut oil is solid at room temp). Use syringe to fill up the capsules and you can keep them in the fridge for up to six months!
Use them at night only, shove one capsule as far up the vagina as possible and immediately lay down. No tampons! Pad is advisable but not required if she doesn't like it. There will be a watery discharge in the morning and perhaps mild irritation, nothing crazy or intolerable. Use for 7 nights to clear a yeast or BV infection, then she can use it once a week indefinitely for maintenance. I've gone down to only using it once a month right after my period and it's great and inexpensive.
HUMCO HOLDING GROUP Boric Acid Powder, 6 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A62lxbE93KY2T
Dear troll, making my own capsules full of this magic vagina balancing powder took me out of a years long cycle of itchy misery. Two at night for 3 days, one a night til symptoms subside plus at least 2 more days, then every other night, then as needed or every time you have sex or swim in a lake or do anything that normally sets your twat off. One bottle is about a lifetime supply.
I learned about it here, so shoutout to all the trolls who posted about it before me!
Here's a recipe that, based on the reviews section, is incredibly effective and only takes a few days. The key ingredient is boric acid, and the reviewers talk about it being available near the "band-aid" section of drug stores/Walmarts/etc. I'm not sure how much it would be in those stores, but there are some options on Amazon for about $7-$10 (like this one). If you end up using this, don't put it somewhere like a counter because the ants will be swarming it.
I hope this helps you! I saw this recipe several weeks ago and thought "That could definitely come in handy someday."
I won't be able to tell you for sure for about 2 months. But if you store your tools in a tool box. And then put a dehumidifier in the box and as other people say put some oil/wax on the tool it should stay rust free.
There are reusable dehumidifies that you reset by baking them in an oven. As seen here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qzEhzbX8Q0SP8
I use jojoba oil, which is really a liquid wax. But 3in1 machine oil is a tried and true rust prevention.
This guy tests and documents in a fairly rigorous way the "best" rust prevention.
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
Best of luck.
Plastic isn't going to hurt your toy, however if you don't let it dry off entirely before you put it inside the bag your probably going to run into some trouble.
I go a little overboard, but I have a lot of toys.
I store all my stuff in this guy THE TOY BOX
I wrap each of the toys in this THE WRAPS
I put a bunch of these in the toybox to snatch up any extra moisture and to keep my toys from getting really nasty and moldy/mildew. [The no mold safeguard](http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO
/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962870&sr=1&keywords=silica+gel)
And lastly I clean my toys using this The Cleaner
I have over a grand in toys in this thing though, looks like a toolbox so nobody really thinks...."there's probably dildos in that thing" and it's really heavy duty I mean this thing can take a beating like crazy so during travel and such I don't have to worry about rough handling of it. Also it can be locked with a padlock to keep nosey people out. The only downside is that it's watertight but the silica gel will dry up any moisture that gets in.
I was using gun oil to prevent corrosion of my steel. Another poster here suggested that might be a bad idea. After a lot of searching and reading pretty much every thread on the topic on B&B and SRP (there are several in the archives), I decided NOT to oil my razor at all, as the general consensus is that oils can do more harm than good. For those who do choose to oil their blades, mineral oil or non-corrosive gun oils are the most popular choices.
Now, instead of oiling, I wipe it down with a TUF-cloth and store my razors inside a silicone gun sleeve in a drawer with a small rechargeable silica dehumidifying canister. Probably overkill protection, but it's easier than oiling and I feel much better protected with a total long term investment of $22.
I use Hydrion test strips (the 5.5 to 8.0 range) and have for a long time now with great success.
Read through the article, you will get a lot of information. Feel free to google words you don't know. In short, in milk, the main spoilage is driven by gram-negative bacteria. They are able to grow a little better than other bacteria in cold temperatures and over time their concentration is high enough where they start changing the chemical make-up of the milk. Mainly, it seems that they release enzymes that break up the fats in milk (not entirely sure about non-fat milk) to other fats whose taste we don't like.
Measuring different kinds of fats, or bacterial concentrations is possible, but to do so cheaply with a simple readout on a carton or bottle is very hard. You will have to go for something that can have an easy read-out but is still indicative of the bacterial concentration. As you guessed, a good metric may be pH. It turns out, many bacteria like to make lactic acid as they grow, especially without too much oxygen, which lowers the pH of the milk.
Again, there are studies already available on the change of pH of spoiling milk, but this is where the fun part comes in. You can do these test yourself very easily. All you have to do is get a couple of cartons of milk (preferably different makes, and different fat% milk). Then measure their pH over time. Probably once per day for the 2 or so weeks it takes the milk to spoil. Each time you measure the pH, write it down and then taste the milk to see if it has spoiled. Try to find a pH value below which you would say the milk is spoiled.
Don't worry, having a little spoiled milk will not hurt you. Especially if you spit it out. Then make sure to take a couple more readings a few days after you know the milk is spoiled (don't taste that stuff) and make sure that the trend of lowering pH is still there.
As for how to measure pH. You can use pH strips. It's important to find ones that have a good change in color in the range you need (6.4-6.8 for fresh milk and lower for spoiled). This might be a good option.
Ideally, then you would need to find a dispenser design that would allow for a pH strip to be subjected to the milk without leaking the dye back into the container. Have fun coming up with some ideas!
Good luck and make sure you talk to your science teacher or any scientists in your community to help you plan experiments. This will help you learn how good experiments are done and in turn make your project all that much better.
http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426730546&sr=8-1&keywords=Hydrion
good?
Hopefully you didn't pay museum prices
Cheers. Glad you liked it. Yeah Old Grad-dad 114 is good too. I find that it's much easier to find than Bonded Granddad, but 114 might sneak up on you pretty quick. It's super potent!
As far as the mixing glass goes, I like it. It has a wide mouth which makes it easy to muddle and a bit of a lip, which helps for pouring. The measurements aren't super helpful because it's in milliliters and I'm not usually mixing 200ml drinks. Haha. But the best part is the handle. It keeps my hand from warming the mixing glass by keeping it off the mixing glass.
They sell them on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Catamount-Laboratory-Beaker-Mug/dp/B004GE8NSM
Turns out they're fairly cheap on Amazon but I don't see the exact one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GE8NSM/
Alternatively this beaker mug is pretty sweet too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHGNBBG/
In case you need a permanent handle plus, its a little bigger, and I would be worried about cross contamination. All that being said, I like your solution and the idea of drinking out of a beaker!
Unrefined mostly harmless non-weapons grade uranium
I always liked how if you look at iron oxide the 'frequently bought together' items are aluminum powder and magnesium ribbon to make and ignite thermite.
They used to sell potassium nitrate that had a recipe for using it to make a black powder bomb in the product description, but I can't find that any more. Oh well, you can still buy them separately:
http://www.amazon.com/Sage-Cauldron-Lb-Salt-Petre/dp/B000WS901K/ref=pd_sbs_hpc_2?ie=UTF8
http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-Pure-Sulfur-Powder/dp/B005H0WA2O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394149652&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/Fogo-FHWC35LB-35-Pound-Hardwood-Charcoal/dp/B009P166SU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394151117&sr=8-2
Thermite. Did you know that aluminum will catch fire? I didn't until I thermited a macbook and most of the case burned outwards from where the thermite was piled.
Pro-tip: wear a welding hood, or at least sunglasses or you will have a spot in your vision for the rest of the day.
As always, amazon is your friend:
http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Powder-30-micron-Pounds/dp/B005QFYBUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369961638&sr=8-1&keywords=aluminum+powder
http://www.amazon.com/Magnesium-Shipping-65ft-75ft-GalliumSource-LLC/dp/B0051HBSI0/ref=pd_sim_indust_1
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Iron-Oxide-Natural-Pounds/dp/B004OKDTX2/ref=pd_sim_indust_1
same price, much better looks, plus allows for swirling/shaking without spilling here
Here it is:
(optional) Erlenmeyer flask
I used a spare project box I had for the container, but a cigar box etc would work. If you want a more detailed description of the actual process let me know. I also used a spare 9v dc adapter I had lying around. Even the fan and earth magnets can be found in an old computer tower, knocking your price down to a whoppin' $5.45 for the stir bar.
I would think not. If you have a Radio Shack near you that hasn't gone out of business yet, you can get:
So far we're at $11.07. Then you need a stirrer bar($5.45) and an erlenmeyer flask($15.30).
You'll also hopefully have some wire and a soldering iron (and solder). Grand total of $31.82. After that, have fun!
I agree with /u/notsweetenough that a 2L flask is way too big. If you a variety of other items at the table, you can get away with 250mL or 500mL flasks.
One issue I can see is that real lab ware can be pretty pricey. The first inspo photo you posted (which I love!) could easily be over $100 in lab ware alone. There are some sets on Amazon that are affordable-ish. If you want a mix-and-match thing going on, you could get this set. I would envision the larger 1L and 500mL flasks filled with fairy lights, and the smaller flasks with flowers in them. To save on costs, I would split them between two tables (with the 1L + 250mL on one table and the 500mL, 150mL, and 50mL on another). Likewise, there are equivalent beaker sets if you want to mix-and-match flasks and beakers.
If you wanted a more uniform theme, like in your second inspo photo, something like these 250mL Erlenmeyer flasks might work.
If it were me, I would probably go with mix-and-match sized flasks and beakers, with the largest ones holding the lights and smaller ones with flowers. I'd also have a separate table number with whatever science-y reference you want (plant, animal, elements, etc.). If the two candles didn't feel like they were enough, I would add on some 50mL beakers as bud vase, or colored wired balls (like in inspo #2), or fake succulents.
Let's see.. my 5ml sampler bottles are these from FastTech though similar ones can be found elsewhere. The problem with those is that the needle is too small for 50/50 liquids when used to fill a tank. I haven't been able to find these needle tip bottles with, say, a 16 or 18 gauge. But I only use these small 5ml guys for testing (read: dripping) so they work just fine (no need to dispense 1-2ml at a time).
I've also got a ton of vktech bottles via Amazon. I couldn't pass these up for 12-15 cents each. They're not high quality, but they get the job done. The dropper plugs flow very well and they can be easily modified for faster flow (dispensing VG). They aren't great for filling tanks with the larger than normal tip, though. Quite a few people have received unusable, poor quality bottles, but I think that has a lot to do with the source. The ones I bought were "shipped and sold" by vktech, though you'll notice other sellers on that Amazon page - there must be a range of quality available from these different sellers. All the reviews get lumped together, adding uncertainty.
My favorite plastic bottles for normal use are these from Heartland Vapes. It's all about the plastic needle tip on those - so nice for filling tanks with smallish fill ports. I believe the plastic bottles that Wizard Labs carries currently also have this plastic needle tip, though it's not reflected in their photos.You can also find this style of tip over on FastTech. If they fit your existing bottles well, a nice retrofit. Though the longer tip will probably hinder your existing overcaps.
Hard to beat Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2MPVUM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00 - 10ml
http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Childproof/dp/B00D1GV8LU/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&srs=6710147011&ie=UTF8&qid=1452181963&sr=1-14 - 50ml
Bent tweezers work really really well. Unless you're trying to take apart already mounted switches, I find tweezers to be the best (something like the top one in the picture on this listing http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1409881252&sr=1-2&keywords=tweezers).
I don't have those specific ones though, so I can't comment on the quality of those. Nice reviews though.
I bought my files, drill, tweezers and dykes off of Amazon and they all together set me back less then $50
each thing was 10-15
http://amzn.com/B00E8ER10G
http://amzn.com/B000OVHZ3U
http://amzn.com/B00DVIEJ14
http://amzn.com/B001N1AASC
I use a 30ml (1oz) dropper bottle. Recipe:
•put 4ml propylene glycol into bottle
•add 1g 4F
•put thumb over bottle opening and shake vigorously until completely smooth, with no lumps. Might take a minute.
1 drop is 5mg. Shake well every time before use (product will settle out).
I transfer all of my flavorings in to 1oz glass dropper bottles. My VG, PG, and nic are transferred to 8oz squeeze bottles so I can easily add it to my mixes. There's no waste, nothing to clean up, and I can make a 20ml batch in just a couple minutes and a 125ml batch in only a couple minutes more.
For recipe calculation I just use an Excel sheet where I have every flavor's specific gravity referenced for use in a formula to automatically adjust for my batch size.
I really don't think it could get any easier than this.
I buy mine on Amazon Prime. I probably pay a few bucks extra but I like Amazon and I love my free two day shipping.
For those of you with Prime, another very random deal that'll save you tons of star san: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Transfer-Pipettes-Gradulated-Pack/dp/B00KWFV58O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474778163&sr=8-1&keywords=pipettes
I brew way too much - in fact I'm brewing right now - and a 32 oz bottle of star san has lasted me years. I still have about 10 oz left. 6ml per gallon, I tend to make a quart at a time.
I ordered these in October. I've been very pleased with them.
[You can try these, too.] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KWFV58O/ref=s9_top_hm_bLWo4B_g328_i7?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=1K20956MA11G3F77KPFM&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=d2c7f77d-19d0-5a76-91b2-2725eb36e606&pf_rd_i=318122011)
Second reply to add: Reading this really helped me - https://www.seachem.com/prime.php
Here's a link to the pipettes:https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Transfer-Pipettes-Essential-Graduated/dp/B00WLIQHQ0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2OSV8A39XCSXC&keywords=pipettes&qid=1556757080&s=gateway&sprefix=pipett%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-3
You may be overthinking it a tad. Unless Ruger has done something remarkable with machining tolerances (and I'll bet they haven't) there's not much I do with my suppressed MKII's than dribble some of my powder solvent of choice down the receiver and scrub/wipe with cotton 3" shotgun patches. It cleans the breech-face to new, and I then have a clean gun.
I clean via the ejection port, and the underside opening.
I use the cheapest plastic pipettes that are sold on amazon, (link for reference point only, I think I paid $4 for 100 of them) to squirt the solvent where it needs to go, let it sit, then use 3" cotton patches (12ga shotgun patches) for general cleaning, again, whatever cotton patches are on sale @ Midway, or LGS or whatever, and $0.99 bamboo skewers (your local grocery store, pack of 100) to get the patches where they need to go.
The extractor groove, well, that's a twist with a solvent soaked patch via bamboo skewer and I call it a day. I don't get much crud out of that.
Other than that, the rest of the gun gets sprayed with either:
Once done, I wipe it down (everything internal and external) with the aforementioned 3" shotgun patch with your favorite gun oil (the brake cleaner strips ALL grease/oil away), and I call it a day.
There isnt much left after that, for me, at least, unless I do a white-glove test.
I never fill my pens directly from the bottle and over decades I've never had a bottle of ink go funky. "Disposable" 3mL plastic pipettes will last for months at a time if you flush them out with water and cost just a few cents each. It keeps your fingers unstained and your ink uncontaminated. https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Transfer-Pipettes-Essential-Graduated/dp/B00WLIQHQ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504279565&sr=8-3&keywords=pipette
As the other comment said, Isopropyl Alcohol. It's recommended you get something higher than 90%. A bottle of 91% IPA is available at Walmart for $2.50. I bought that 32oz bottle when I first got my printer and I've maybe only used about 2/3 of it so far so it'll last you quite a while.
I dispense mine from a squeeze bottle like this onto the print bed and then wipe it down with a clean paper towel. Feel free to ask more questions if you have any. I'll be happy to answer :)
Maybe stop by a laboratory supply store and grab a lab squirt bottle, I hate rubbing anything on a pcb that might leave little bits behind (even though people use q tips all the time,) though it's likely this residue won't simply lift away. Spray bottle will be good for in the pci-e slot and such.
https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=asc_df_B00WTHLR18/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198059287844&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12565168165468540085&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019550&hvtargid=pla-385033840497&psc=1
Totally disassemble everything and spray it down. Consider doing it over a tray to recapture the alcohol for reuse if it's not overly cloudy, and finish with a rinse using fresh alcohol.
Pretend like this is a brand new PC. you just acquired all the parts to put it together, but there's one tiny jumper SOMEWHERE on the board that will short everything and brick it. You just gotta clean it all and it's a perfect PC again!
Also a chance to redo that annoying bit of cable management that you didn't notice you messed up, and was too minor to take it apart for.
I've heard a lot on here, and online, it's pretty common for your first batch to die off, the key is if you have babies or the first batch has babies in your water, if the water is in the acceptable parameters that you say, will be born and used to your water and will thrive. I just recently started and my first batch all died I got from my LFS then I orders 10 from shrimp farm .com and it came with 2 extra, and I almost didn't notice it came with like a dozen, must've been born a day or two before shipping or maybe even on the way, baby shrimp smaller than a grain of rice. All of them are still going strong and I have 3 berried females right now. Of that batch I've lost 3 or 4 adults.
Edit: also saw your looking at getting a TDS meter off Amazon. Be selective in what you choose, I got a couple on there I returned because they were giving me extremely adverse / fluctuating readings all the time. You want to make sure you get one that has ATC, Automatic temperature calibration, or something like that.
I got this one and verified it still my school chemistry lab testing their tap water, RO water, and DI water and compared it with their readings and it was pretty darn close.
Professional TDS ppm Meter | Digital Test Pen Combines EC, TDS & Temp (3-in-1) | 0-9999 ppm & ± 2% Accuracy | Quick and Easy Testing For Hydroponics, Ro System, Pool, Aquarium, Spa and Water Hardness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPG89CE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNB2AbFRA3C04
It's out of stock right now it looks like through Amazon? May be available through other sellers or sites ?
I apologize for not linking. That was poor Reddit etiquette.
Apera Instruments AI209 PH20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENFOHN8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Professional TDS ppm Conductivity... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FPG89CE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get an EC meter and PH meter and just feed at 1.5 EC your plants will tell you if they are lacking something and you can address then. If you have a solid nute base and maybe some calmag you should have no problems
Base Nute https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-FloraNova-Bloom-Quart/dp/B000W7C87Y
Calmag https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Cal-Mag-Plus-Quart/dp/B004JKBMRW/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1481303031&sr=1-1&keywords=calmag
With the above base nute follow the lucas formula and you will have above average results with good genetics and paired with a hempy bucket you will kill it
Test your tap waters ph,tds, gh and kh. Here are shrimp parameters . If your tap water isn’t ideal I would recommend doing the ro water with a remineralizer.
I don’t think stratum is worth is for neocaridina shrimp since they require kh in there water. The kh will run the buffering real quick. For neocaridina I think sand is the best substrate.
I would highly recommend looking at different types of mosses there’s a lot of very cool ones besides java moss.
Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.
Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.
A lot of people are going to get all "definitely not you dumb shit" on this but you are pretty OK.
While I would caution against the abuse that is the dishwasher, if you pull off all your keys you can just spray/wipe/wash the whole keyboard clean gently. Dry it all you can by hand and then put it in container with one of these bad boys, I mean the whole pack of 50, and wait a good 5 days for it to dry out.
The radiator isn't a good idea, you don't want to steam out the moisture. If moisture gets into small areas then gets heated up it risks building up pressure and cracking things. Stick to just dry air.
Source: My K60, my Strafe RGB, my K55 at work and my friends K95.
Disclaimer: I am not Corsair. I don't speak for them. This is definitely outside of warranty. THIS should be the nuclear option, dishwasher is just... please don't ever again.
If it's personal use only I strongly recommend investing in a vacuum sealer (this is the one I got and it's amazing, it also works with other vacuum bags, I like the foodsaver ones) and desiccant packs (also the ones I got)
This will preserve the potency and freshness of your dried shrooms for a really, really friggin long time
Yep - that’ll do the trick! I added desiccant packets https://amzn.to/33ZJGEP and 3m anti-tarnish tabs https://amzn.to/2JmYndd
You can't replace LP lights with anything but OEM LP lights. The leveling motors would be missing and the harness would be completely different. Helix lights are made to use with the non LP GTIs.
Check out this thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14422
I keep these on hand, and tape some to the inside of my housing cap if I ever notice any condensation: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2RR5362S5UEV8&keywords=silica+packets&qid=1562783428&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+c+to+displa%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-4
edit: call AutoHaas and see what they have. They're a VW/Audi recycler and have a ton of parts for sale.
888-897-2781
https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3TV0LA88HKTL&keywords=silica+packets+for+moisture&qid=1559067138&s=gateway&sprefix=silica%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4
Silica gel. Will help with moisture and condensation from temp change. I was on the road in Louisiana with a semi hollow and the thing would drip with moisture after being in airconditioning. It really helped. If you aren't going to take it out this will keep condensation from happening because the air inside the case will be drier and less moisture to condense onto guitar. If you don't want to buy that then pantyhose full of uncooked rice is a similar solution. Some saran wrap to seal the case after that wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Link:
get these, fill one with water and squirt it in a spoon with your drugs. give it a minute to dissolve and apply a little heat if you need to, then let it cool for a sec and suck it into the syringe. now you can snort this directly out of the syringe or use it to boof.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N01TO2O&pd_rd_wg=nva8v&pd_rd_r=7X6S1CWMT27FD4HS0R54&pd_rd_w=id59C
Super important to note that guinea pigs can’t produce vitamin C and need supplements. You can also get liquid vitimin C and small syringes from a vets office or online to give them daily. Mine think it’s a treat!
Examples:
Vitimin C: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00016RLSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XgPPDb6004AC1
Syringes: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ziPPDb57CGQPG
The syringes can be rinsed out with water and reused!
I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.
I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.
Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring
By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive
Currently leaning towards this: http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1414606240&sr=8-4&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner
I'm happy with this model. It's been a workhorse for me for years. I purchased it because it would clean brass casings. My only complaint is the short timer and the heating function is not needed and too hot for e-juice.
http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/
Under $100.
http://www.amazon.com/Kendal-Industrial-Digital-Ultrasonic-Cleaner/dp/B0018IIPFK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418181881&sr=8-5&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&pebp=1418181893490
Read the reviews on boric acid for YIs and BV and how well it works. It's changed my life, been using it for two years very intermittently. The powder will last forever and you'll not have to spend another dollar on anything OTC for a long time.
https://smile.amazon.com/HUMCO-HOLDING-GROUP-Boric-Powder/dp/B001V9WY0S?sa-no-redirect=1
(cc: /u/thebunz21)
Here's what I bought! These were suggested in the original post I read and worked for me. It's a LOT of product, but it's pretty affordable. Just use a panty liner if you put one in at night because the capsule degrades and leaks out (kinda like the ovules that prescription treatments have.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00428B6X6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V9WY0S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01
Even if I were agreeable with the concept, I'd just leave my razor on a $5 silica gel canister...
You might also want to get a dessicant (like http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025OO8DO/ ) so excess humidity doesn't build up inside of it, especially if you also decide to store paper documents.
Get some dessicant. Put the entire turntable inside a large bag with the dessicant, and then double bag it. Leave it for a couple of days. This should pull out any remaining moisure, although it may not fix your left channel problem. This would be a good first step though.
My Dad used this method to fix my wet Pac Man watch in the early 80s. I thought he was a wizard.
ETA: The sooner you can do this, the better. If you have a store near you that sells shooting supplies, they should sell this and you can pick it up right away.
These may also come in handy:
http://amzn.com/B0025OO8DO
> https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Essential-Laboratories-Testing-Range-Environment/dp/B002ZYVU4O
Do you think something this accurate for use on a plant that is not having issues? I have the same brand of strips that covers the entire spectrum, so obviously less accurate. I usually get the PH around 6, airing on the side of 6.5 if possible. Should I be going for something more accurate?
If your soil is peat or wood based and you have no liming in there then pH or Ca/Mg deficiency may be an issue. I use these pH test strips to get an idea of my soil pH.
These are the strips SAG recommended that I use.
I never did like the drops and the vial, but I LOVE the pH strips.
I bought a few gallons of purified water early on, but now I just fill them with just tap water or tap water with the FF Trio Nutrients .
I use the strips to test the water each time, and then use the pH Up or pH Down when needed.
I use something similar to http://www.amazon.com/Dispenser-Hydrion-Papers-Strips-Testing/dp/B002ZYVU4O . I use ones on a little wider PH scale and they work great.
edit: the nice thing is you only need a tiny strip making the test strip roll last a LONG time.
Looks like pH issue. pH testing solutions aren't too accurate for the range we need. I recommend getting these which is what I use and they work very well. Meters are okay too, but they're delicate and a lot of people end up breaking them when they try to clean it. If you get a meter, I'd still get those strips as a back-up.
That said, 6 is right around the minimum. 6.2 - 6.5 is where I like to be.
A beaker mug. A friend gave me one when I told him I was going to become a teacher, I am a former research chemist so it was perfect.
Like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Catamount-Laboratory-Beaker-Mug/dp/B004GE8NSM
Where can I get a mug like that?
Edit: I found some.
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Beaker-Borosilicate-16-9oz-Capacity/dp/B00B5WK7KK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421028006&sr=8-1&keywords=pyrex+mug
http://www.amazon.com/Catamount-Laboratory-Beaker-Mug/dp/B004GE8NSM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421028006&sr=8-2&keywords=pyrex+mug
http://www.amazon.com/BKMG600-600ml-Glass-Beaker-Mug/dp/B00H1AK0HK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421028006&sr=8-6&keywords=pyrex+mug
:D Yay! I already have a regular beaker mug, now I just gotta complete the set! I totally want that Erlenmeyer flask one. It's just so fabulously geeky.
Also, the one I have is surprisingly sturdy and well made. I was a little worried when I got it that it'd be thin, easily breakable glass, but it's held up to quite a lot of abuse so far! So they're totally worth it.
It's accurate. Both of the main ingredients are extremely easy to get, either locally or online. You can purchase them quickly and cheaply without the need for any special licenses.
For example,
http://www.amazon.com/Red-Iron-Oxide-Natural-Pounds/dp/B004OKDTX2
http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Powder-Micron-500-Mesh/dp/B00ERX79FU
Just scale the amounts to what you need, add a magnesium strip as the ignition switch, and you have some thermite. I've used it a few times to cut through some old, rusted pipes at a local camp in the absence of power tools.
You can probably get it cheaper here, free delivery too.
Nope.
get the vinturi and any glass vessel of your choice. I have a number of them, but these two get the most use:
http://www.amazon.com/Riedel-1440-13-Cabernet-Decanter/dp/B0000DC0XG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462385732&sr=8-2&keywords=riedel+ultra+wine+decanter
http://www.amazon.com/PYREX-Narrow-Mouth-Erlenmeyer-Flasks/dp/B004XR5VMI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462385775&sr=8-7&keywords=erlenmeyer+flask
Take it to the next level with these bad boys. A 1L flask is light enough to weigh your flavors into without other ingredients, and big enough to easily swirl/mix 500ml.
This is the one i got. i thought it was a 1000ml flask but when i got it it was 2000ml.
https://www.amazon.ca/Karter-Scientific-213A2-Borosilicate-Beaker/dp/B006UKICJA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478484008&sr=8-3&keywords=borosilicate+glass
I bought a set of these and use a smaller one for decarbing my shatter in the oven, and one of the larger ones for cleaning my coils. I only go through the extra step with the flask so that my ultrasonic cleaner isn't getting gunked up with oil remnants.
I actually use a set of beakers I got on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/213A2-Karter-Scientific-Beaker-1000ml/dp/B006UKICJA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407697950&sr=8-3&keywords=beaker
I use the 500 size to boil it down to about 50-100 ml then pour the remaining into a smaller beaker and finish there.
The reason to not boil it all in a smaller one is the larger sizes boil it down faster since they have more glass in contact with the stove.
I wonder if you could boil it down though in the mason jar... I may try that at some point, but I don't recommend it haha...
It sucks that you need something outside the kitchen for this part when the rest can be done without stuff readily available. Maybe we can find something to replace it from the kitchen...
Amazon.
(Link to 5 pack of non pyrex, normal pyrex is only 1 for the same cost)
They are cheap too. Beakers!
Another thing that helped me was getting a cheap set of beakers in varying sizes off Amazon. Weigh and mix in the beakers, SLOWLY mix with a silicone spatula, then pour the mixed juice into 6 120 mL bottles
Here’s what I have
Karter Scientific, 3.3 Boro, Griffin Low Form, Glass Beaker Set - 5 Sizes - 50ml, 100ml, 250ml, 500ml, 1000ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006UKICJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mJTQCbGFJ8Q1S
Apparently ordered them 2 years ago, almost to the day. They’ve been a godsend. I didn’t even realize I’ve been mixing that long, lol.
They're available on Amazon, and you can get two-day shipping. A dedicated paint store might be more likely to have test kits than a general hardware store.
Yeah and if you're worried about lead, there's cheap lead test kits on Amazon - https://www.amazon.ca/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501697871&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+test
These sticks work well for a simple yes, no on lead :
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009NQNL0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cMHQCb54ED1AQ
Not sure if there is an equivalent for cadmium though.
Empty drippers?
I've been using these
Some people say they don't like them, they're a bit cheap and they're not child resistant, but they are cheap and work well and I haven't had any split or break. I've carried some of them in my pocket for months.
Or you can spend quite a bit more and get these
Which are the same kind name brand bottles that Mount Baker Vapor and many other juice companies use.
Order some alprazolam powder from Oxymorpheus (evo... he's my go to guy, might be out of stock for a week or 2 though) or JimmyTheGent (spelling? but heard good things about his stuff) and volumetrically dose it into a solution of PG (http://www.amazon.com/Propylene-Glycol-Food-Grade-Quart/dp/B005PZBRUC/) in a dropper bottle (http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-10ml-Dropper-Bottles-Plastic/dp/B00D2MPVUM/) so that one drop = 1 mg or whatever you prefer.... I believe there is a FAQ on volumetrically dosing on /r/drugs (sorry I'm lazy you can find it yourself using that search thingy haha).
Also, I use these 10ml dropper bottles for certain liquids. They're great for decanting foundation and skincare!
Unfortunately your only option is to get a rail from a used Joy-Con. Replacement rails aren't even available in the Chinese market yet as I'm told.
Though that bent pin looks fixable. As long as you can straighten it and then pull it outward to match the other pins, it should make contact at least a little bit. I'd use precision tweezers for that.
This is my obligatory post telling you try out tweezers:
http://www.amazon.com/Non-magnetic-Curved-Tweezers-Forceps-Anti-static/dp/B00DVIEJ14/
My producitivity almost trippled on making beadsprites, and my accuracy went way up, once I got precision tweezers. Well worth the $4 price tag.
Your sprites looks great by the way!
I got these: tweezer set
I wanted non magnetic as it's a pain to pull any magnetic debris out of a motors magnets otherwise :)
Well... the last time that I bought cheap black Chinese ESD-safe tweezers, I received a large smelly white Chinese bathroom rug so YMMV.
For storing paint, i often keep my most used colors in these.
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Vials-B36-pk12-Dropper-Capacity/dp/B00I4BQXVW/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5WMSY26GQC2WGEXPWZRM
that way i can mix drop for drop. If it is not in one i usually just eyeball it. Sometimes use droppers, or just pour it out of the jar. Never really had a problem. After a bit of painting/experience you'll be able to eyeball it.
The only time you should have have color consistency problems is if you are mixing a custom color. Otherwise you should be fine. I usually mix half a cup and just keep add/mixing more in my cup as i go til i finish the project.
2nd. I usually always mix it in the cup by putting a paper towel lightly over the tip. This should cause bubbles to go back into the cup and mix the paint. (this can get messy it you have a lot of paint in the cup.
If you are using acrylics, i would suggest you getting a retardant or a flow aid. This will slow the dry time and decrease tip drying. This is insanely helpful with some acrylics. They also make retardant for lacquers ect. Just make sure you have the correct one, acrylics is the most useful.
I've purchased these a couple of times. Good price and quality.
Edit...there were 5 left in stock when I posted....down to 3 now.
Boston Drippers
http://www.amazon.com/CLEAR-Boston-Round-Bottle-Dropper/dp/B00I4BQXVW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450192043&sr=8-5&keywords=glass+dropper+bottle
More error margin if you don't have proper measuring equipment, yes. I have good pippetes. Something like this works fine for mL. It will work this way, just wasting water. Shelf life in the closet should be years, but may lose up to 10% potency a month, at the very worst. Most likely just a percent a month.
This is a good vial too.
These work great for mixing Cheap as hell, too.
Disposable pipettes work great for transferring paint.
Honestly, don't. Skip any starters as they are all generally over priced. Just buy things separately.
Amazon:
VG
Scale
30mL Bottle if you need some for concentrates, nicotine, VG, PG, etc. Or just to put your juice in.
Cheap Pipettes
As a couple other people have said, find a few recipes you think you'll find interesting and buy those flavors. I started like you and picked a bunch of random shit that I thought I'd like and quickly realized I didn't know what I was doing and couldn't really make anything good with what I had.
I also suggest buying a 12 pack of 30ml and 60ml droppers from Amazon. Eventually you'll want to get 120ml's too. You'll see that only 15mls just don't cut it in the long run... when you take into account steep times, sometimes you'll have to wait a couple weeks to know how a recipe turns out. When you find a good one you'll want to make way more than 15ml.
May also want to pick up some disposible pipettes like these. I find that even if the flavor has a dropper, they're usually a small diameter and if you're making a big batch of something you'll be there for 10 minutes getting 50 drops out of it. Pop the dropper off and these make the process go much faster.
I started asking myself this awhile ago. Personally, I use pipettes for measuring paint, for containers I have some tiny metal tins, but no matter what you do, you will always have waste. At first it really bugged me, but after I thought about it more, a jar is really only a couple bucks, and the amount actually wasted will take a long time to add up to anything significant.
For the actual measurement aspect, I go by "drops" It's not really perfect, but it seems consistent enough. I will admit that I can be lazy and will mix in the airbrush cup as well, but only if the paint is thin enough.
ACM Economy Wash Bottle, LDPE,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use this to keep the plants that like their soil to stay moist, or plants that don't like moisture on their leaves! Really handy little tool
That's my assumption too, that the roots are still shallow. Perhaps alternating between top and bottom watering for a while would help encourage them to grow out without causing dehydration? I use a precision squeeze bottle like this and it does help with avoiding leaves to an extent: https://www.amazon.com/Economy-Bottle-Squeeze-Medical-Tattoo/dp/B00WTHLR18/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=squeeze+bottle&qid=1572211503&sr=8-10
for PH i own this one and i bought this calibration solution.
For PPM this guy.
​
People highly recommend BlueLabs however, Im poor and these work LOL
Is there a tool that can give me the PPM for N-P-K?
I ordered these.
PPM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CP4P1J
pH: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FPG89CE
I bought these syringe tips and they've been working well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1VO3E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
2nd link is just a cap... You can use a push on needle tip works fine. The first link will "lock" the needle onto syringe but not 100% necessary... If you get something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K1VO3E6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CTE7TVHA387F1V8PPMNE sorry i don't know how to do link how you did...
You can just push it on the syringe really hard and warm up the syringe with a couple passes from a lighter... It comes out pretty easy once warm.. Warm the carts to so oil flows to bottom easily...
My Vision II spinner has 4 settings 3.3V 3.8V 4.3V 4.8V.
I live in a pretty humid climate as well, and the best advice I got was to use the least amount of liquid possible, add citric last, and keep the batches small. Here's the recipe I developed:
1/2 c. Baking soda
3/8 c. Citric acid
1/4 c. Corn starch (or tapioca, arrowroot, etc)
2 tsp. Bentonite Clay (optional)
2-3 tsp. Flowers/tea/herbs/etc (optional)
1/4 tsp. Epsom or Sea salt
1/2 tsp. Witch hazel/water/alcohol
1 tbsp. Coconut oil (or shea, cocoa, olive, etc)
About 1/2 tsp. (tops) essential oils
5-10 spritzes of witch hazel IF NEEDED
I had over 80% humidity for a solid 4 months and was still able to make really good BBs. The other thing that helps is silicate packs, like they put in food. These are reusable, just pop em in the microwave or oven to dehydrate and use again! My bombs dry in a few hours now:
https://smile.amazon.com/Wisedry-Rechargeable-Desiccant-Indicating-Reusable/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1542658701&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silicate+packets
Here what I use, it allows for 2 rolls in a bag or larger rolls.
Hefty Slider Jumbo Storage Plastic Bags - 2.5 Gallon Size, 3 Boxes of 15 Bags (45 Total) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741C6N93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ck3ZCb48A269W
Plus these for inside the bag
5 Gram [60 Packs] Silica Gel Packets Rechargeable Desiccant Pouches with Color Indicating Beads Reusable Moisture Absorbers Bags for Gun Safes Closet Tools Storage Food Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7V19JE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Bl3ZCb4H14CA1
I would just buy those card boxes you mentioned in the OP and limit how much you shift things around, it is not the boxes that are causing the scuffling as much as it's just the cards rubbing together.
I also bought these silicon moisture packs and put them in the boxes to reduce moisture the cards take in which cuts down on risk of having the cards warp
WiseDry makes "rechargeable" food grade ones in different sizes. For folks new to food storage, keep in mind that moisture packets are different from oxygen absorbers.
Just by heating it? Nice.
I was gonna buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7V19JE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3TTLWB3O3TZXN&psc=1
>You can add in desiccants or mothballs if you're worried about mold or bugs.
Is that, like, a must, or only "if I'm worried"? They may remain in storage for years so there's that.
And wdym, like, putting one of these in the bag: https://www.amazon.com/Desiccant-Moisture-Dehumidifiers-Corrosion-Prevention/dp/B01MZ4ZQ3Z/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=silica&qid=1572639931&sr=8-11 ?
It depends on what you want to take. The dosages on here range from 2.5,5 to 10, 10 being the most. People seem to swear by the 2.5-5 range but I personally like 10. Maybe try 5 your first go around.
So here’s how I would do it
Get PG solution bundle from the source below, it has the solution and dropper bottles.
https://whitewaterresearch.com
And get a beaker from amazon, this is what I have
Karter Scientific 214T2, 3.3 Boro, Griffin Low Form, Glass Beaker Set - 3 Sizes - 50ml, 100ml, 250ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F47B8AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZCUyDb3YNPV8V
I would personally make a 50 ml solution.
Take the 50 ml beaker, fill up to 50ml line, dump in powder, mix (it may need to sit), poor into bottles and you’re done.
With that ratio of 50ml to your 1mg of powder you are looking at 20mg per ml (one dropper full)
So then you just math what you want. If you want to take 10mg then it’s half the dropper, if you want to take 5mg then it’s 1/4 the dropper.
If you want to be super precise with your dosing you can get one of these
BSTEAN 1ml 1cc Syringe with Luer Slip Tip, No Needle, Non-Sterile (Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N01TO2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OGUyDb8DK6M6F
I personally like these because it does make it precise and the pipettes that come with the bottles tend to be shit.
Know how that goes, tip for ya next time (three cats here, all have needed pills at one point or another, one of them has lung nodules and needed medication for a year two pills twice a day).
Short answer, dissolve the pills in a bit of water and then use a needless syringe to squirt into back of throat. I actually think it's easier on the cat and the human vs the method shown in the image. It's also handy if you need to split tiny pills into say quarters. Dissolve pill in 4 mL of water and then just give 1mL dosage. Make sure to ask your vet if that method is OK for the pills before doing.
Things you'll need:
Crush the pill in mortar & pestle. Dump powder into syringe tube. Fill with water and shake. Squirt into back of kitties mouth and done.
Also, this is assuming there isn't a liquid version of the medicine. I always ask the vet.
Get an ultrasonic cleaner with a heating function
Don't know what your budget is but something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018IIPFK/ref=pd_aw_sims_5?pi=SS115&simLd=1
Scale: You mean to tell me that Canada doesn't have a single scare available for sale, anywhere?
Do these ship to Canada? do these ship to canada?
what about these?
do you see where I'm going with this?
heres your needles
Here's the Amazon link for anyone interested:
https://www.amazon.com/LeadCheck-LC-2SDC-Disposable-Non-Staining-Detection/dp/B009NQNL0I/