The good news, creating my own substrate out of thermal pads and the use of a graphite pad was EXTREMELY effective, but also quite risky in the channels of the DIE and HBM. You can see closely that the silicon has chipped off after a couple of times I dug out my DIY substrate with metal tweezers. This was my resolution for about a week and you can see my largest problem here is board warp from my custom mount. I was working to fix this warping so my mounting pressure was even and this is when I was not paying attention as mis-assembled the water block mount.

Images: https://imgur.com/a/WnoHkOZ

Final Products:

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1QZY4M Polyimide Film Adhesive Tape
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTXSM Arctic - Thermal Pad 145 x 145 x 1.0 mm
  
  YMMV, I would recommend a 1.5mm pad for the surround. The channel needs to be vertically installed and 1.0mm was good for me but installation must be meticulous. Several cuts for the channels should be made to optimize single installation, correct height with no overlap and appropriate top-to-bottom coverage. Do not use a metal pick/tweezers, cut a Q-Tip at an angle to create a channel clearing device https://i.imgur.com/uvmWLrW.jpg. Protect your chip giblits with the Polyimide tape or nail polish, preferred over cutting the thermal pad, the extra pad is desired for mounting variability.

I think these are slightly cheaper on Amazon ($23.85):

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK

$28 for the same on Amazon. Just in case anyone doesn't want to make an extra google account for these.

I'm going to copy a previous comment of mine and recommend a less known option, the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power.

$50 on Amazon right now, and according to this tier list, it trades blows with all of the top tier air coolers for a much lower price.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xszfg-GNkOKoKZBIpo42cWLtPWg2hmbCcRD0wiCwTiA/edit#gid=0

In the words of so many here, "Jesus Fucking Christ" is the first thing I have to say! It's so awesome to see everyone pumped up over the build. If I had known there would be so many comments, I'd have posted the pictures with some context, but I'll try and answer your questions now.

Are you posting more pictures?

Definitely! As soon as I get stuck into the meat of the build (this weekend maybe?) I'll take a few snaps during the build and the final result.

What are you going to do with this thing?

Play Minecraft on the lowest resolution possible with the particle effects and clouds turned off of course!

But seriously, there are several use cases intended for this rig, some personal, some work related:

• Multi-platform virtualized workstation (KVM, Windows & Linux guest OSes, PCI Passthrough, SLI configurations adjusted as needed)
  
• Game development (that's what I do for a living, not saying who I work for though!)
  
• Virtual reality game development / HMD gaming (all the cool PCMR kids will be doing it soon enough)
  
• Static lightmap rendering (3DS Max)
  
• Monitor Gaming (Minecraft in glorious 320x240, smooth lighting disabled)
  
• Keeping me company during the long winter nights
  
  Why four Titan X cards? Give 980 Ti some love!
  
  Originally I considered two Titan X cards and two 980 Ti cards for this build, but that idea was discarded for a few reasons and considerations, some more logical than others:
  
  
• In the event of the KVM workstation setup going horribly wrong, being able to fallback to a 4-way Titan X system running a single host OS would at least give me some use of all the cards.
  
• Is 6GB VRAM going to be sufficient 2 or 3 years down the line? I'm not so sure. 12GB of VRAM puts my mind at ease for a build that I intend to still be using 4 or 5 years from now with minimal upgrades.
  
• Purchasing four Titan X cards is equivalent to purchasing 5 980 Ti cards, which in the grand scheme of things, is not an insane premium to pay to build out a system with current generation top of the line hardware.
  
• I would have been buying watercooling equipment designed for the Titan X regardless of what I chose.
  
  
  For those asking about PALIT branded cards, they offer a reference design card for Titan X, which is fine, because most other vendors do the same. I will of course be dismantling the cards to add waterblocks to them, and possibly doing other crazy, potentially warranty-voiding overclocky things to them.
  
  That Sandisk Ultra II..it's so peasantly compared to the 950 Pro.
  
  I should have mentioned that I also have a 1TB 840 Evo that I'll be bringing over from my current workstation, which has a fairly negligible performance benefit over an 850 Evo and Pro in a practical setting.
  
  The Ultra II was a Cyber Monday deal, much cheaper than an 850 Evo or Pro for reasonable performance and storage capacity, and more than enough for infrequent secondary storage.
  
  De-ionized water, why not distilled?
  
  I didn't list it in the pictures because it hasn't arrived yet, but I am expecting a delivery of distilled water tomorrow for filling the loop. The de-ionized water will be used to flush water blocks and radiators as it is a cheaper source of purified water to obtain here in the UK (unlike distilled water, which stores don't stock like in the US).
  
  Biocide, coolant, anti-corrosives?
  
  I have decided to start with distilled water and a couple of drops of Mayham's Biocide (a copper sulphate concentrate), and keep a close eye on the loop for the first few months to see how it works out, and introduce corrosion inhibitors if needed. I am fortunate that my loop mostly consists of copper, with brass and nickel plated/brass fittings, so at this point, my main concern would only be the tin/lead solder inside the radiators as being a potential corrosion hazard.
  
  If anyone has information on corrosion inhibitor bases that can be added to water that don't contain a glycol mixture and dyes, and that are designed to protect copper/nickel/brass/tin/lead, I'd love to hear from you!
  
  You better have awes-mazing monitors for that rig!
  
  Baby steps...it has been five years since I built my last workstation, and everything will eventually have to be replaced, which includes five 21.5" 1080p 60Hz monitors. Replacing those is a financially crippling research project in itself, but for now, the tower is the first replacement to be dealt with.
  
  Are you going to trick this thing out with LEDs, chrome rims and a sexy lady lounging over the case?
  
  No, the tower isn't really all that visible in practice as it would be sitting behind a monitor (and not repositionable as the whole desk is covered in monitors!), so I did not intend on going crazy with lights, colored tubing and platinum case trim, instead directing the budget towards more practical components.
  
  How much did the rig cost to build?
  
  I'd better leave the number crunching to my rich daddy and his solid gold, diamond encrusted calculator.
  
  Parts list, I demand it!
  
  Component | Product Name | Quantity | Product Info URL
  ---|---|----|----
  Motherboard | Asus X99-E WS | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/X99-E-WS-Workstation-Motherboard-Capacitors/dp/B00NJGJJE0
  Processor | Intel Core i7 5960X | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Extreme-Processor-Socket-2011-V3/dp/B00N1O4RRY
  Graphics Card | Palit NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X | 4 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Palit-Graphics-DisplayPort-Dual-link-PCI-Express/dp/B00UXOGCP0
  Case | Phanteks Enthoo Primo | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-ES813P_BL-Enthoo-Primo-Tower/dp/B00EB0A6FE
  Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA 1600W G2 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B00MGPJHPQ
  Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 64 GB (8x 8 GB) DDR4 2400 MHz | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK64GX4M8A2400C14-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B00PLERJ7M
  SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960GB | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ultra-Sata-2-5-inch-Internal/dp/B00M8ABHVQ
  SSD | Samsung 840 EVO 1TB (From Previous Build) | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5-inch-Basic-Solid-State/dp/B00E3W16OU
  CPU Waterblock | EK-Supremacy EVO – Acetal | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-supremacy-evo-acetal
  GPU Waterblock | Titan X/GTX 980Ti Copper Acetal Water Cooling Block EKWB | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-acetal
  GPU Backplate | Black Aluminum TITAN X/980Ti Water Block Retention Backplate | 4 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-titan-x-backplate-black
  GPU Bridge | EK-FC Terminal QUAD Semi-Parallel - Titan READY | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-fc-terminal-quad-semi-parallel
  Tubing | TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 9,5mm (1 meter) | 3 | https://shop.ekwb.com/tube-primochill-primoflextm-advanced-lrttm-9-5-15-9-mm-crystal-clear
  Compression Fitting | EK-ACF Fitting 10/16mm | 20 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-acf-fitting-10-16mm-black
  90 Degree Fitting | EK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 | 6 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-angled-90-g1-4-black
  Ball Valve Fitting | EK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 | 1 | https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-af-ball-valve-10mm-g1-4-black
  Pump Top | Alphacool HF D5 TOP - Black Acetal | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-HF-D5-TOP-mounting/dp/B00L5J1YIC
  Reservoir | Alphacool Repack Dual 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-Repack-cooling-pressure-monitor/dp/B007ENAVCI
  Pump | Alphacool VPP655 D5 Pump | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-VPP655-PWM-Single-cooling/dp/B00LLR40OI
  Radiator | Alphacool 35281 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 480 | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-Copper-480mm/dp/B007P05Y18
  Radiator | Alphacool 35279 NexXxoS UT60 Radiator 240 | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Alphacool-NexXxoS-UT60-Copper-240mm/dp/B007P05XUU
  Radiator Fans | Corsair SP120 PWM Quiet Edition (Dual Pack) | 5 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-SP120-Quiet-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2
  Fan Controller | Phobya PWM 8 x 4Pin Fan Splitter | 2 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Phobya-PWM-8x-4Pin-Splitter/dp/B00OD7MO6E
  Biocide | Mayhems Biocide 10ml | 1 | http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayhems-Solutions-Ltd-Biocide-10ml/dp/B007WDOKAE
  
  If you made it this far through the rambling, thanks for reading, keep an eye out for more pictures, and keep on being glorious!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You didnt HAVE to smear it with grizzly :/

My PC:

• 7700k @ 4.8 Ghz
  
• ASUS STRIX Z270E mobo
  
• Kraken x52 AIO
  
• 16 gigs g.skill ram @ 3200
  
• Gigabyte 970 (soon to be replaced with a 2070 this month)
  
  I built this PC back in 2017 and the CPU temps have been terrible since day 1.
  
  With my daily driver overclock of 4.8 Ghz, 100% utilization for more than 10 minutes would push CPU temps into the mid 90's. Heavy gaming (~50% utilization) would regularly cause temps in the upper 70's or low 80's.
  
  After browsing around here and Youtube I found that the problem was likely Intel's thermal paste under the IHS, so for just over $30 I bought:
  
  
• A $13 Delid Tool
  
• A $7 pack of sandpaper
  
• Conductonaut Liquid Metal for $16
  
  I then delidded my CPU, spent over an hour sanding down my IHS, then applied liquid metal under the IHS and Artic MX-4 above (which I had laying around). I chose not to re-seal the IHS after reading some comments here.
  
  Now my CPU temps idle in the 30's, stay in the 40's while gaming and rarely ever hit the 50's.
  
  For CPU temps to break into the 60's, I have to run 100% utilization for over 15 minutes (as shown), which doesn't even happen in my day-to-day use.
  
  So pretty happy overall.

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

Can even be more of a badass and replace the thermal material with this

> removing the CPU cooler would scuff up the thermal paste most likely.

Stop using paste!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works just as well and you can remove it as often as you want.

I ran into this issue as well. I am running x4 120mm (Push/Pull) on my H100i, and 2x 140mm top exhaust, plus the GPU Hybrid fan. I ended up putting the GPU fan back on the GPU header, but the other 6 fans are all controlled with one of these SATA powered PWM Fan Hubs from a single header. And this board also has less USB ports than my Z97 Impact board did, so I ended up buying a USB C to 4x USB hub to run my headset/wheel/etc off of. Bonus Build Pics

Definitely! The thermal paste and pads come with the GPU but they just use a standard one of sorts. Aftermarket thermal compounds work better and lower temps a bit more, which could mean everything in terms of thermal throttling.

Here are the thermal pads that I bought.. I cut them into strips and placed them over the place where you see "SFC" near the blue circles on the PCB.

Here is the thermal paste I used on both by GPU and CPU. I used a dot formation on the CPU and an "X" formation on the GPU.

Hope this helps!

If it's a big issue. Get a couple PC USB fans. Put them behind the Xbox to push the hot air out of that space.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xtDQub1NZ6DK4

Also consider applying a liquid metal thermal past like conductonaut, but only if you like making a deal with the devil. Actually don't consider it, but if you did it will drastically reduce your thermals on the GPU die... but if you are sloppy and get it anywhere it will kill the board because its well conductive. But then worst of all, it's highly corrosive and dissolves alumnium into a dust. So you can only really apply it if you have a copper/nickel heatsink. That said, if you are total badass grab some 33+ tape, tape down the perimeter of the gpu and apply the thinnest possible application of the liquid metal TIM. Like pea method is way too much, but you can use the syringe to "suck-up" after the fact but before you spread. When spreading by the grace of god be careful. Any speck on anything the heat-spreader on the GPU has the potential to short circuit or corrode any component. But then you can drop your thermals about 20C over stock paste, and about 10C over ceramic (non-conductive) paste. Which should help your device live a bit longer until prices can come down... or force you to buy a new one now if you mess up.

Here's the devil's bargain for about $20USD.

Has anyone attempted using a thermal pad like the IC graphite thermal pad?

Handy option - a thermal pad. Durable and re-usable alternate to paste.
Great if you want to practice attaching your cooler.

here are some links guys

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nfa14+chromax&qid=1557892056&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q4Y16V/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Halos&qid=1557892102&s=electronics&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBA_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q56LFS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Halos+120mm&qid=1557892144&s=electronics&sr=1-3

If you don't need LED's, the two pack plain ones are $31

They have been cheaper though and it's the one I usually get.

*Noctua: HMB




Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 120mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WzN-AbDHK7WNT


Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZAN-AbKDPJBST


Noctua NF-S12A PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 120mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07657VBQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hBN-Ab4FCS0XW

Spend a bit extra and get a Noctua heatsink/fan. This is seriously good.

This, however, beats out even AIO water cooling solutions.

AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

May not be the best or cheapest but you can Daisy chain em or just use the remaining USB port to power other things

Oh, you said you already had that so I assumed you didn't need it.

Gelid OC Extreme: https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03/dp/B002P5W4RU/

Grizzly Thermalpad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ/

NIDEC Fan: If you can find one at all and one that isn't shit like I got. They are hard and rare to get due to increased demand.
I got mine from here but it was damaged https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-PlayStation-4-PS4-Pro-Internal-Fan-G95C12MS1AJ-56J14-KSB1012H-CUH-7015B/222840647319?hash=item33e2566e97:m:mdoCV6CtvEfaOKvTVYb477g:sc:USPSFirstClass!98105!US!-1

"Don't do today what can be done tomorrow"...words to live by :D

I've been putting it off since removing the front panel of my case (CM N200) is such a pain and the filter always falls off when putting it back on.

Silverstone filters are boss but collect EVERYTHING. I can see the side intake one getting dirty after 30 minutes so I'm dreading looking at the front one that gets cleaned every 2-3 weeks instead of weekly.

The U14S goes for $64 NIB

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY

Here's a link to Der8auer's test of a bunch of X570 VRMs.

The specific board you asked about is in that video and will show you why you probably don't want to get it compared to a similar board from another company.

The TL;DW for the video is that you generally don't want a VRM temp over 105°C. Between 80°C and 105°C is technically "still fine" as he puts it, but why buy something that performs worse than something else for the same price. The MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge WiFi is consistently at the bottom of the charts in his tests and I don't believe it was ever below 80°C while many boards were below that.

​

Boards comparable to the one you were looking at are the following:

1. Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite WiFi ~$290 CAD right now from Canada Computers
   
2. Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus (WiFi) ~$255-$260 CAD right now across a few places
   
3. ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 WiFi ~$250 CAD from Newegg Canada
   
   The Elite looks to have 1 CPU, 1 Pump, & 2 case fan headers (4 total)
   
   The TUF looks to have 1 CPU, 1 Pump, & 3 case fan headers (5 total)
   
   The Phantom looks to have 1 CPU, 1 Pump, & 3 case fan headers (5 total)
   
   
   My recommendation would be to pickup the TUF board as it's got a good price and handles cooling the VRMs better than the phantom. The elite is a good board too, but it is more expensive than the TUF.
   
   If you need a bunch of fan headers for case fans you'd probably wanna just pickup a fan hub instead as their pretty cheap and make cable management way easier. Instead of running 6 cables to your board and trying to hide them all nicely, you can run maybe 3 cable and have the rest go to the hub and all be invisible behind the motherboard tray.
   
   A decent fan hub can be had for ~$15 CAD like this one from Deepcool that handles 10 fans with 1 cable to the motherboard. It uses 12V Sata power from your power supply to power the whole thing and also is PWM enabled, so you can control the speed of all 10 fans as if they're just a single fan.

I have almost this exact build and I've been using Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition its 40$ bucks on amazon. Decent cooler beats the stock cooler the 3600 came with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H25DYM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: there are a few versions of this cooler rgb and what not. It comes with an extra set of fan clips so you can do a push pull configuration you can add your own fans if you already have extras.

Words, spelling, things. https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

here are some links guys

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=nfa14+chromax&qid=1557892056&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q4Y16V/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=Halos&qid=1557892102&s=electronics&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-FF120RGBA_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/dp/B074Q56LFS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Halos+120mm&qid=1557892144&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Mate, I don't know what you're playing at here, but this isn't fooling anyone. Your timestamped photo (https://imgur.com/NaNE1cd) is definitely NOT a NF-S12A, its not brown and beige in color and the fan blades are completely different (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-s12a-pwm). I'm virtually certain its not a noctua at all, it looks like these generic rosewill 120mm fans.

Some kind of German black magic. Pop it open and it just takes a drop...https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6-PDzb14X4XSX

Delid Tool


Liquid Metal

Corsair ML series fans are stupid quiet and move great air.

I have 5 in my case (2@140, 3@120).. case sits on my desk and is very quiet.

Here's what I meant about the NH-D15 Chromax fans possibly being proprietary:

NH-D15 Chromax: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654B9MR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7ye3Cb4XNEG1S

Case fan Chromax: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kze3CbSH2VPCN

If you have the fans in the top link, they'll 100% work on an NH-D15. As for the bottom ones, I don't know. You might have to do some Googling.

If you mean the chassis fans, you can buy Y splitters or hub to support more fans like these from deepcool for example.

https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-Control-Supports-Cooling-FH-04/dp/B07LGWHHXV/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=deepcool+hub&qid=1561962890&s=gateway&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=deepcool+hub&qid=1561962890&s=gateway&sr=8-2

There is some brands that sell splitter or hub like this too. Same with the RGB, there are RGB splitters as well.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP

>I guess my question is, how beefy should I make this pc? Do I need a heavy graphics card or a stronger single core processor? Do I need Linux or can I achieve this in Windows?

This will depend on what you want, and how far you want to go. My emulation and gaming rig is:

• Intel Core i5 4690k
  
• Gigabyte GTX 970 Mini OC
  
• 8GB DDR3 1600 RAM
  
• couple SSDs
  
• Windows 8.1
  
  It's solid for the purpose, and I've got it in a mini-ITX case(Thermaltake Core V1) and replaced my stock cooler with an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro and threw in two Noctua 80mm fans on PWM. Sounds like overkill, and it probably is, but I wanted a powerful, but cool and quiet build I could treat like a TV console. Plus, keeping the case temps low also reduces the overall heat in my den where I play. Small rooms can heat up quickly.
  
  It boots up faster than my TV turns on, plays everything I throw at it, and the CPU never gets higher than 62c (and it takes Prime95 to do that, it rarely goes above 59c when gaming, ~30-33c when idle). It also emulates PS2 games at 6x-8x interal resolution with FXAA and shaders, which was important to me because I'm gaming on a 4k TV.
  
  Technically speaking you could get away with much lower specs. But I would recommend at minimum the i5 4690k CPU, and a decent GPU. If you're gaming at 1080p even a low end video card will do for PS2 and Gamecube emulation, not sure about Wii. But the better your card the more you can upscale the games internally on the renderer.

Here's some links for the lazy, these are the model that OP used.

120mm, black - $10

140mm, black - $10

120mm, white - $5

You can access the 140mm white from the third link, $12.

Also, if my case fans are 120mm, does the filter go on the outside, and I get the 140mm?

https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1M9MMLSGCTD2D&keywords=graphite+thermal+pad&qid=1568119585&s=gateway&sprefix=graphite+ther%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-2

These are the changes I would make:

• The CPU cooler we discussed
  
  
• faster RAM
  
  
• A cheaper SSD that will still be more than good enough
  
  
• The Powercolor card that you picked is a hair better than the Gigabyte. But the Gigabyte one is $30 cheaper. Personally, I don't think the extra 1-2fps is worth $30, but if you do, then get the Powercolor card.
  
  
• 750W is kinda overkill. Frankly 650W is more than you would ever need also, but this way you're saving $40.
  
  
• For fans, I take a "wait and see approach". Don't buy additional fans until after you have built your PC and used it for a few days. They might end up needing them, you might not. You can always buy them later if you think you need them. Also, $65 is a lot to spend on fans. The Silent Wings 3 are excellent fans. If you want to absolute quietest available, beQuiet and Noctua are the way to go. However, keep in mind that there are fans that are mostly as good and significantly cheaper. The Arctic F12 and P12 series are pretty good budget fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC782D5/ You get 5 of them for under $30. As long as you run of them under 800rpm, they are very quiet and 3 of them in the front weill move a ton of air.
  
  
• Basically, if you want the premium beQuiet fans, go for it. But think long and hard if it's the best use of your money.
  
  
• People have good things to say about the monitor you picked. If that's definitely what you want, go for it. Personally, I have a bias for IPS panels. I wouldn't use anything else at this point. So I would go with a different 144Hz monitor.
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | $194.00 @ Amazon
  CPU Cooler | Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler | $44.49 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Amazon
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $69.98 @ Amazon
  Storage | HP EX920 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $62.99 @ Newegg
  Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card | $403.98 @ Newegg
  Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ Walmart
  Power Supply | Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $94.99 @ Amazon
  Monitor | LG 27GL650F-B 27.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor | $249.99 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $1325.40
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-22 17:43 EST-0500 |

This is wrong. HIDevolution and a few other laptop ODM's do Conductonaut on their 8750H MSI laptops and get great results. 7700HQ and 8850H are also 45W TDP CPU's as well and they all benefit from conductonaut or Galinstan.

The question isn't if the CPU will benefit from it, but whether the heatsink is properly designed. You can't use conductonaut on a laptop without a perfectly flat heatsink AND a solid, firm fit. You can test for fit by getting a (free) sample of Fujifilm Ultra Low Prescale from "Sensorprod" (annoying but they will usually give you a sample, then they'll ask you to be a customer, LOL), or buy the retail repacked version from IC :

https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Contact-Analysis-Heatsink/dp/B07CKHRKHQ/

This will show you easily if you have a crappy fit or not. The problem is this stuff gets expensive.

MSI tends to use semi decent heatsinks on their laptops, so if the VRM thermal pads aren't elevating the top side of the heatsink (often this can be fixed by switching to a lower thickness pad), liquid metal can work there, but you should use some way to seal it with a barrier (15 ppi foam dams, or at least even though this isn't a dam, Kapton tape or Super 33+ tape around the CPU die.

I have no idea about Asus. It's very possible their heatsinks suck, which means unless you can mod the pressure or find out what the problem is, you need to use a thick thermal paste instead. Even a Panasonic Soft PGS+ graphite thermal pad (or this : https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ ) would do poorly for you if the heatsink/mounting sucks.

I personally went for the black theme with the CM Hyper 212 Black Edition.

You won't regret for the price point.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

Just a hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/
Hub + cable management (ties/velcro, etc.): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G9BEC5W/
Hub + remote control: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NHQRCRM/

Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Power

Hi space bucket folks.

Here is my bucket build. I at the stage of testing the temp and humidity. Next steps are to tack down the wiring and power supply, buy a cabinet to stash the bucket in...and then start growing!

Here are the parts I bought off amazon:

LED:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MY5VY2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UFO:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INM0BPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power adapters and mylar:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WW40Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KB8CB9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(shout out to /u/mcscroggins for posting his build. I referred to it while building. And thanks to other posters in this sub for posting pics of their builds for ideas and such).

I got you! https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-Motherboard-Supported-Heatpipes/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537935241&sr=8-1&keywords=deepcool+gammaxx+gt

Just my two cents (items listed in the same order as your PCPP list):

• CPU - Current gen, I wouldn't upgrade until DDR5-based platforms are out.
  
• CPU Cooler - Same cooler here, and solid for a mild OC. No room in this case for the larger dual-fan tower coolers, so if you decide to OC further, might need to go with an AIO. Problem is, this case only officially supports 240mm (280mm will fit, unofficially). A 240mm will be LOUD for a higher OC, so you're basically stuck with what you've got (not necessarily a bad thing).
  
• Mobo - Upgrade with CPU when the time comes.
  
• Memory - Same.
  
• Storage - Only you can decide when your storage needs increase.
  
• Video Card - I also have a GTX 1060. When the 11/20 series comes out, I'm going to upgrade. I'd advise the same for you. I would strongly advise holding out rather than getting a 1070/1080 series GPU.
  
• Case - Keep
  
• Power Supply - While the H200i supports full ATX PSUs, the fact that they clog the basement means that the front GPU fan becomes air starved. You may not have an issue given the type of cooler on your GPU (horizontal fin array, single block), see my DM for more details. If GPU temps do bother you at all though, consider an SFX PSU. The Corsair SF450/600 are the gold standard here and the only real option today. For your current setup, even the 450 is overkill. And you're never going SLI in that case. My 7700k/1060 6GB combines for < 200W while gaming. Go with the 450 if you go this route (again, only if GPU temps are a concern, otherwise, keep what you've got).
  
• Operating System - Switch to Linux...j/k :)
  
• Case Fan(s) - I'm using Noctua Chromax for my H200i. [2x NF-A14] (https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) (front intake), and [2x NF-S12A] (https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07657VBQQ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) (top/rear exhaust). Great airflow, deathly silent. Consider these if your current fans are louder than you'd like. And no, these aren't the poop brown ones. All black, with red corner pieces (or other colors) to match your case.
  
• Monitor - My recommendations are either the ViewSonic XG2703-GS (27", 1440p, AHVA, 144-165hz, G-Sync) if you prefer 16:9, or Alienware AW3418DW (34", 3440x1440, IPS, 100-120hz, G-Sync) if you want a higher quality LG IPS panel and a wider FOV at the expense of a lower refresh rate. And yes, the GTX 1060 can drive it, though you'll be running newer games at high @ 45-60fps or medium @ 75-100fps, as opposed to Ultra. The next GPU gen should address that concern for you, if it is one.
  
  Hope that's useful. Our builds are similar in many ways.

There are a few options for easy lighting:

• LED fans (example)
  
• LED strips (example)
  
• NZXT HUE (if it ever comes back in stock)
  
  Those are all pretty straightforward. Fans just install where you've got fans, strips either go on the monitor, keyboard, or outside/inside the edges of the case. Hue is similar to the strips but is powered internally.
  
  You can get a little more complex with things like Cold Cathode tubes.

me_irl

Ok, if you don't feel comfortable doing the work, then having someone else do it is best. However, it generally isn't that hard if you take your time.

I use a Craftsman small screwdriver set like that one, and have for years. Yes, there are cheaper tools. But I happen to like these.

There is a guide on how to tear into your machine, available right here.

It will take you step by step what you need to take apart. Click on the Prerequisites for section "removing heat sink assembly." It will show you what all has to be torn down to get to that part, and remove it.

Then, clean the old paste off with a lint free cloth, and decent rubbing alcohol. I avoid 70% at all costs. I prefer my 99.9% stuff, but have used 80% when in a bind. Make sure it dries completely before you continue. Pure stuff dries very quickly, less pure can take some time.

Then apply the new paste as a thin line about the length of a grain of rice. Don't smear it, try to spread it, or anything else UNLESS it is specifically designed for that (liquid metals come to mind). Then, reassemble. Be careful to ensure the heat spreader is attached evenly, with appropriate pressure.

Undervolting allows you to reduce the heat of the chip by running at voltages lower than it was designed for. Ideally, this shouldn't have to be done. Assuming a decent paste job, you won't. If you do find yourself in the position where that needs done, then use Intel XTU to adjust the voltage in small increments, and run Prime 95 in the background to monitor the results. If the machine becomes unstable, or starts throttling, you went too far.

What you need:
Screw drivers

Lint free cloth (some people use coffee filters, or even paper towels)

Alcohol

Paste (I use IC7 Diamond these days. Works very well on my machines. Arctic Silver 5 is still decent stuff, as is Gelid Extreme. There are others, and I am sure someone else will chime in with their favorites)

Clean, static reducing/non static working environment

Have you already bought the fans? If not I’d say go with the AC Infinity MULTIFAN S3, Quiet 120mm USB Fan for Receiver DVR Playstation Xbox Computer Cabinet Cooling ones by ac infinity. They have a controller in line and it’s plug and play, no secondary power sources to power the controller to go back to the fan.

I originally got this fan controller with the two recommended buys which are the 4 pack of fans and a molex power supply.

This will let you have 4 fans all controllable. So you can always have two buckets side by side in the future and have them share a fan controller. That is what I was going to do, but ended up going with the prewired because of the fan cfu between then and easy I’d install.

Hope that helps. Sorry it didn’t use your adapter, but you can always use that for a 1-2 meters of led strip if it’s 2A

Here goes:

Parts list:

Fan- http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395795979&sr=8-1&keywords=120mm+fan

Grill-http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RFG-120-120mm-Grill-Cooling/dp/B0057JFO9Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796001&sr=8-4&keywords=120mm+fan+grill

Power supply-http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply-12VDC/dp/B006GEPUYA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796047&sr=8-5&keywords=12v+power+supply

Speed controller (optional)-http://www.amazon.com/Manual-Variable-Speed-controller-connector/dp/B002D3DK1I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395796082&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+fan+controller

Parts Notes:
You can get any 120mm fan locally (or any of these parts), this one isn't special. Make sure to note that its 12v DC and take note the amerage. This is imporant in sizing your power supply and/or speed controller. You may have a 12v DC wall charger to an old something or other laying around. As long as it is 12v DC and is around 1A, you should be all set. 0.7A, fine. 2.5A, fine... etc

Installation- I would put the fan inside the box exhausting upwards so the top of your box stays flush. You could put it on top of the box and have it pulling air out should you wish. The grill is optional to protect stuff from falling in and your fingers. Installation should be straight forward. Use small wood screws to mount both the fan and the grill. Pre-drill depending on wood type and screw size.

Powering it up- If you don't have a volt meter, take note of the positive and negative ends of everything before you cut any wires off. Label them clearly. If the fan has a 4 pin molex connector note the red and black pins. Plug them into the corresponding Load/Device side pins from your speed controller. Cut (or _____) and connect the positive lead from your wall plug to the red wire of the line side of the speed controller. Connect the negative to the black wire. Check your connections, then plug in the wall pack. Your speed control should now be controlling your fan.

To make the fan simply run at full load, connect the positive to the red of the fan, negative to the black of the fan to omit the speed controller.

All of these parts can be found at Frys / Radio Shack / local electronics or computer store.

Written at a (6). Sorry if unclear, just send a message.

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound TC-GC-03-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_oqALwb380F4ZZ

Buy it from Outlet PC for $12.48 shipped.

Arctic Silver is old news.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Edition-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414852734&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+sp+120mm+quiet

Exchange them. Airflow fans are just ineffective at what you are using them for. The fans I linked are the ones you want.

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

The problem with the Kraken is, that it only cooles the GPU chip itself. But stuff like the GDDR5 RAM and the Voltage regulation need cooling, too! You dont need another fan, the Krakens fan is there to cool the other stuff besides the GPU chip, but with heatsinks the fan will be much more effecitve.

Depending on which GTX 970 you have you might actually be able to recycle the heatsinks/plate the cooler already has.

e.g MSI's 970:

http://www.hardocp.com/image.html?image=MTQxMTk3NjU5NW5pdEZaMTFFZzFfMV83X2wuanBn

The left heatsink with fins is the VRM cooler, the plate on the right is for the RAM.
taken from here:

http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/244715-msi-970-aio-liquid-cooled-and-cpu/

Some different heatsinks would be like those:

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427036240&sr=8-2&keywords=VRM+heatsink

For them to fit on your VRM and your VRAM you need some thermal glue if its permanent or some adhesive thermal tapes. But i cant help you in this case because i have never installed those kind of heatsinks since im currently using a full cover block in a custom loop.

This one came with a Silverstone ML05B, however I'm using it on an Antec NSK4100. The rubber rim of it is magnetic so it works on pretty much anything.

I'm pretty sure this is it actually.

The noctua u14s is a close performer (3 degrees of the Noctua d15) with less mass, and it's a little cheaper depending on location. Check your cases depth since it's 165mm tall.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua+u14s&qid=1557601868&s=electronics&sr=1-3

I'd grab the 14u. I believe micro center carries it and they price match. The thermal paste comes with it and it's good.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ref=asc_df_B00C9FLSLY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198093101467&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5798927547733593442&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015431&hvtargid=pla-378617878246&psc=1

Easy if nothing is in the rack. Used these for the cabinet fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HA-CAbRCS8KKK

That said as long as you have decent access to the underside, it’s just a few screws and these are way quieter.

Drive around until you find somebody who's chucked a cabinet on the side of the road. Pick it up and use a big boring bit or jigsaw to cut some holes in the side. Then buy a couple of these to move air through the cabinet, then just mount all your components to the shelves or back.

hell yeah motherfucker

Why not just run a quiet fan all the time in a cabinet? I have two of these in my cabinet, one directly on top of my AVR, and I don't hear them at all.

for fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Quiet, blows tons of air. Suggest you use power adapter and not pull from usb port.

Also, undervolt helps.

Chrome is UGLY when it comes to cpu resources. Try the new chromium based edge DEV beta. Better with all the features of Chome.

For the person with the nvidia driver issue. Why use the MS provided old drivers? Go to nvidia's site and get newer ones.

https://www.geforce.com/drivers

I love the Ubiquiti Unifi POE switches for VoIP. Easy to configure, simple vlan implementation (just use Unifi's default vlan mechanism, untagged access port with PVID, no need to set vlan ID's on the phones).

But for VoIP, the more important thing is the router/firewall/UTM, and the configurations that may be specific to each vendor.

A tip: if you want your networking gears to run nice and cool with minimum risk of failure, grab some 120mm USB fans like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G05A2MU/ and put one on top of each of your POE switch/router/firewall etc. Those things tend to run hot, because they're usually minimally or passively cooled, and heat is your no.1 enemy for electronics. With a simple inexpensive fan like that sitting on top (the model I linked is also whisper quiet), each of your boxes will easily drop 10C in temperature or more. I have one for each one of my Mikrotik CCR routers, SonicWall UTMs and Unifi switches, even on some Unifi APs, all running soothingly cool.

I personally have that box /u/BJWTech linked. It gets a little warm to the touch, but I picked up a simple USB Fan that blows across the box (and some other network gear) and it keeps it just barely warmer than room temp. Processor reports around 30c now.


120MM USB Fan

Specs for those who don't read imgur descriptions..

• i5 3570k (4.3GHz for 3 years, epic CPU)
  
• Gigabyte 980Ti
  
• 32GB Corsair Vengence RAM
  
• ...some MSI motherboard
  
• Asus Xonar STX sound card
  
• Corsaid 750D
  
• Corsair AX860
  
• 120GB Pro OS SSD/500GB EVO games SSD/3TB mass storage HDD
  
• beQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3 cooler
  
• beQuiet 140mm fans all around
  
• 3x Dell U2515H 1440p monitors
  
• Audeze LCD-2 headphones
  
• Gustard H10 headphone amp
  
• 2x Micca MB42x speakers
  
• SMSL SA50 speaker amp
  
• Sescom RCA switch
  
• Magicforce 68-key keyboard (MX Blues)
  
• Logitech G502
  
• PVElectronics Nixie Clock
  

Also this

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-Pro/dp/B00HPX7J4K

I’m done with thermal paste. I used Innovation Cooling graphite pads for my latest build and liked it so much that I bought another for my kid’s hand me down rebuild. No more sticky goo, no worry about “did I use enough”, “did I use too much”, “did I spread it around properly”, etc.

Innovation Cooling Graphite... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK9SHZG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

>All black case fans

On the cheap side, Arctic P12/P14 (10-12$ or 5 for like 35-40$) can do the trick. Otherwise, Fractal Design has good ones in the GP-12/14, (20$) and HF/HP series (closer to 30) are quite nice.

>Any alternatives? Anywhere else I can buy them? Anyone know why the price increase, are they just not going to be selling them anymore and that's just the last stock?

Considering they're in Germany, I'd guess their situation is the same as Cryorig: trade war has affected their ability to sell in North America, and so their products are harder to come by.

E: Amazon seems to have one SilentWings 140 in Warehouse deals for 21-ish $

When I last checked, the DRP3 was cheaper than the NHD15. At least in the German Amazon.

https://www.amazon.de/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-CPU-K%C3%BChler/dp/B00HPX7J4K/
https://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK

they can get sorta big https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Silent-wings-Cooler/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482444095&sr=8-2

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

A Thermalright TS140 is as silent/powerful as a D15, but significantly cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

If you save up a little more you should just go with an even better air cooler. You'd need like double your current budget to benefit from an AIO.

Some people are telling me this https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO
Is a better option and less money. At the expense of looks.

If you're looking for more fans/don't like the solid color LED's Rosewill's got a 4 pack of 120mms that are usually around ~$15 seen them go for $12 before.

Rosewill ROCF-13001 is the model name for the pack.

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rosewill-120mm-Computer-Case-Cooling-Fans-Pack-of-4-ROCF-13001-38-2-CFM/173371669389?hash=item285dc1bb8d

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835200072&cm_re=rosewill_fan_pack-_-35-200-072-_-Product


Just suggesting this set for those who want 3 or more cheap fans.

• Ryzen 5 2600 Great Budget CPU
  
• B450 AORUS ELITE, has RGB SYNC to control any LEDs you add and the color of LEDS on Gigabyte GPUs
  
• 128GB SSD for OS
  
• 1TB HDD For Storage
  
• GTX 1070 Windforce OC
  
• MX330 case, good airflow for a cheaper case , add fans in whatever Config you want case only comes with 1 fan, if you need a cheap set of fans to hold over you can get https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541435432&sr=8-4&keywords=120mm+fan+pack
  
• 650w Gold Rated Fully Modular PSU, this should be able to handle most upgrades you would throw at it (650w can handle a 1080ti OC and 8700K OC )
  
• Gigabyte Force K83 Keyboard, chose this because it has the most used Type of mechanical switches the Cherry MX Red, Keyboard has no LEDs but is on the cheaper side of Mechanical keyboards, will be a solid keyboard to use for gaming and with it being at the lower price point if you think you need a different kind of Switches you will be able to sell it and grab one with keys closer to what you may need and with RGB if wanted
  
• Corsair Harpoon, nice cheap mouse with RGB and 2 extra buttons on the side as well as adjustable DPI
  
  As for windows you will need to use windows 10 inactivated
  
  ​
  
  Extra note, if you hit the used market you should be able to get a GPU cheaper, watch for people who OC their GPU too hard without good cooling or mined on their GPUs without under volting and temperature controlling them
  
  For used parts i reccomend Ebay and r/hardwareswap and for checking for deal use r/buildapcsales price changes everyday, be on the look out for tomarrow and all wednesdays for EVGAs B-stock sales to get a cheaper Refurbished GPU and or PSU
  
  ​
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  |Type|Item|Price|
  |:-|:-|:-|
  |CPU|AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$159.89 @ OutletPC|
  |Motherboard|Gigabyte - B450 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard|$89.99 @ Newegg|
  |Memory|*G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory|$109.99 @ Newegg|
  |Storage|ADATA - Ultimate SU800 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive|$28.99 @ Amazon|
  |Storage|Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive|$45.89 @ OutletPC|
  |Video Card|Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Windforce OC Video Card|$374.98 @ Newegg|
  |Case|Cougar - MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case|$46.98 @ B&H|
  |Power Supply|*EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply|$74.20 @ Amazon|
  |Keyboard|Gigabyte - FORCE K83 Wired Standard Keyboard|$39.24 @ Newegg|
  |Mouse|Corsair - Harpoon RGB Wired Optical Mouse|$28.28 @ Newegg|
  |Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts|||
  |Total|$998.43||
  |*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria|||
  |Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-06 12:40 EST-0500|||
  
  ​

Judging by the newegg reviews, and the amazon.com reviews

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488214573&sr=8-1&keywords=ROCF-13001

"Yes, they are"

Ya I would recommend ThrottleStop because anytime your PC crashes due to undervolting issues it will reset all the values of Intel XTU.

First you want to click on the FIVR button which opens the undervolting menus. I'd start your undervolt at -80 mv on both the CPU core and cache, working your way to a larger undervolt value in 2-3 mv intervals. Find the value that will crash your computer when you run a benchmark, and then set your undervolt value to 10 above that. My computer will crash at -110 mv, and runs stable 90% of the time at -100 mv.

Next, go to the GPU. Follow the same principle as the CPU undervolts, but start at around -45 mv. Don't undervolt this with the same values, or else you will fuck with your rendering big time. I have mine currently set to -60 mv and it runs stable.

In the general settings menu next to the table with your computer statistics, you'll want to set your speed shift (determines how fast your CPU runs from a value of 1-256; lower = faster). I made two profiles on TS to accommodate the different levels of stress it can take:

• On A/C: set speed shift to 64
  
• Off A/C: set speed shift to 128, disable turbo
  
  Next, go to the options button below the settings you just checked. Here you can name your profiles, and check AC Profile and select your first profile. Then, check Battery Profile and select your second profile.
  
  Voila, now you are undervolted. This should lower your running temps by several degrees, and make your benchmarks higher.
  
  Another thing that helps with speed/temp/battery is repasting your CPU. Follow the instructions on the following videos. I recommend using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, as it can achieve the lowest running temperatures.
  
  
• Video 1
  
• Video 2
  
  By doing all of the aforementioned, I've lowered my running temperature by around 10 degrees Celsius on average, with a typical running temperature of 39 degrees with 20+ Firefox tabs, Spotfiy, and MS Word open.

The twin pack of ML120 is $32 for those interested: https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/

Looks like those ML120 fans are $15 and change BNIB on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK

That's likely the RGB version. The regular ML120s are about £20 for two here in the UK.

These ones https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050040-WW-Pressure-Magnetic-Levitation/dp/B01G5I6MRK?th=1

Hey all, I’m seeing a lot of questions about what OC I was able to achieve; I probably should have led with that. Current settings in MSI Afterburner are +55 on the core clock, +800 on the memory clock, custom fan curve that ramps up to 100% at 80C, set to 120% power. I’m not too enthused about touching the core voltage at this time. If you all have some advice for tweaking that setting, I’m all ears; everything I’ve read is that it’s of marginal ROI. Maximum temperature was 62C in my testing with the Furmark Donut of Death with my case, a Corsair Spec-06 with a tempered glass side window with 2x 140x25mm front intake fans and 1x 120x25mm rear exhaust fan. For those interested, the cooler and fans takes up (not kidding) FOUR PCI slots. If you count the GPU bracket I have installed, it’s SIX! I had to remove my wireless NIC to accommodate, but a small price to pay for the performance gains. Speaking of prices, the whole setup ran me about $115. See below for the components I used!

RAIJINTEK Morpheus II Core: https://m.newegg.com/product/9SIA66Z28H1378?ignorebbr=1&m_ver=1

Corsair 120x25mm ML Fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rVDoDbRDTMHQV

Fan Splitter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sWDoDbNQ2JSKR

Fan Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZKZEQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6WDoDbZKMJPFN

Or get the GAmmax GT RGB https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B074P3JCXX?th=1

Installation looks a little more complicated maybe, as you need the back plate. Or just replace the fan on the other one and use that included fan somewhere else in the case. Or pick a color for the Gammaxx 400, comes in multiple LED versions. look at link

It's a deepcool, haven't tried them but they look nice.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX

Built an all air build with this in white and RGB to the gills.

This looks like a model of a modern glass museum when fully decked out. STUNNING case. Very easy to build in, LOTS of room for cable management.

Make sure if you go air cpu cooler that you heed the size restrictions. I didn't and realized too late that the popular DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK is literally 1 or 2mm too large.

I have the same setup 2600 with the stock cooler and I have the same idle temps although my load temps are a lot cooler with a peak of 63c so I'm guessing I have better airflow than you. I'm getting this cooler on Saturday so things will run cooler and it's a good little cooler from the reviews I have seen.

Fan hub powered off of SATA.

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=computer+fan+hub&qid=1568471938&smid=A1TG24VCRPTZ06&sr=8-4

​

I don't know how the LEDs address, so I'm unsure how to tell you to hook those up. Are they addressable? The Lian Li website didn't mention it.

pc-kombo recommendation

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K | EUR 461,69 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | Asus Z170-K | EUR 129,90 @ Caseking
Memory | Crucial BLS2C8G4D240FSA (16 GB) | EUR 91,88 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Samsung MZ-75E1T0B (1 TB) | EUR 319,00 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 980 Ti | EUR 698,99 @ Atelco
Case | Fractal Design R5 | EUR 107,68 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Corsair RM 650 (650 W) | EUR 108,89 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Dark Rock Pro 3 | EUR 75,20 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1993.23
| Generated by pc-kombo 17.12.2015 |

Skylake build. Given your budget, you could also go with X99. The questions is what that would bring you.

The mainboard supports SLI and overcloking. I red what you said about SLI, but maybe you change your mind later. Regardless, the GTX 980 Ti is the strongest card you can buy – overkill for 1080p, but you said it should work for as long as possible.

No HDD and 1TB SSD because of the budget size and the quietness requirements. HDDs make sound. Also for quiet: very quiet cooler, also a very good cooler for overclocking later.

PSU is semi-passive, the very quiet cooler only goes on when needed.

I have to leave, if I had the time I would look into some changes: You can consider an other GTX 980 Ti vendor model (though the Inno3d also could be perfectly fine, maybe there is a test recommending a quieter one), and the Fractal R5, despite a very good and quiet case, does not fit to your gaming beast wish.

Feel free to respond whether those changes are necessary, than I will look into it when I come back. Though I suspect you will get many responses anyway, people here like big budgets to play around with.

If you have a case big enough and proper airflow, I would recommend the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 over any AIO cpu cooler. It will be quieter, and should keep your CPU cooler under OC.

for $50 I would recommend the thermalright true spirit 140 for CPU cooling http://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
if you look here http://www.anandtech.com/show/5054/corsair-hydro-series-h60-h80-and-h100-reviewed/5 the h60 is ~18% warmer than the h100, while the spirit 140 is ~11% warmer than the h100 in http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?288762-Thermalright-TRUE-Spirit-140-Power

If you end up upgrading the cooler I'd check out the True Spirit 140 Power, it's what I use for my 8700k @ 5.2. One of the coolest and highest performance air coolers out there that isn't gigantic.

An air cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Cooler-Sealed-Precision-SCMG-5100/dp/B01M6CR4GH

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-001F-00030?Description=bequiet&cm_re=bequiet-_-9SIA68V9AT8804-_-Product

212 Evo is very far from the best under $60. It is one of the best for under ~$35 but definitely NOT the previous.

THESE are the best (thermal performance & low noise) up to $60

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/scythe-cpu-cooler-scmg4000

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermalright-cpu-cooler-machoreva and True Spirit 140

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-cpu-cooler-phtc12dxbk

The Thermalright True Spirit Power 140 will save you $40+ and perform about on par with a D15.

I think it's an older cooler which is why you cannot find it anywhere. If you're dead set on getting a similar Thermalright HSF then the True Spirit 140 Power is nearly identical (slightly taller) and has larger heatpipes (better cooling).

https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO

https://www.amazon.in/Arctic-Freezer-33-Plus-Performance/dp/B06WP381DL/

https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/

https://www.amazon.in/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

Arctic 33 Plus should be the best value and can easily handle the 8700.

here is the rosewill variant

Here is the Cooler master variant

I ended up going with the Cooler Master fans, cheap, quiet, get the job done.

Cpu- https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_18?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700065&sr=1-18&keywords=cpu


Gpu
https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-GV-N1060WF2OC-3GD/dp/B01KQUDE2Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521699625&sr=1-5&keywords=GeForce+GTX+1060

Harddrive
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

Motherboared
https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&pd_rd_r=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV&pd_rd_w=VArLs&pd_rd_wg=5DoKl&psc=1&refRID=NK0YGV4JWT87JP1TX5AV

Ram
https://www.amazon.com/Ballistix-Single-PC4-21300-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01N5P755B/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700408&sr=1-4&keywords=ddr4+ram

Power supply
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0600-KR/dp/B00EON40CS/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700503&sr=1-5&keywords=power+supply

Fans
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521700563&sr=1-4&keywords=fan+pc

This is what I came up with.
took me 40 minutes

Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Both are good.

Which games are you playing competitively? Also you're going to want the fastest RAM you can get. I replaced the motherboard and RAM and took out a 1080 Ti from /u/MrTechSavvy build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.79 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Deepcool - CAPTAIN 240EX WHITE 153.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $80.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-Z270X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | $189.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $268.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AORUS Xtreme Edition 11G Video Card | $749.99 @ NCIX US
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $174.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $117.98 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2120.61
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $2110.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-10 20:07 EDT-0400 |

This RAM is Samsung B-die. XMP profile will do 3600 CAS 16. You could probably overclock it even further. Those high frame rates are going to heavily depend on CPU and RAM frequency. If the games are CS:GO and Overwatch, a 1070 would probably perform the same as the 1080 Ti. The CPU and RAM speed is going to be the bottleneck. Good luck.

Edit: Since you'll want the best overclock for the CPU, you would want to delid the CPU if you are comfortable with that. Here's a couple things you'd need to delid.

Rockit 88 delid tool

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut

Arctic MX-4

Delid guide - youtube

I agree with /u/mockingbird. I have a 3770k at stock settings with a GTX970. I rarely see anything above 30% cpu usage.
My upgrade path is a CryoRig H7, a delid tool with some conductonaut for better thermals because right now, CPU temperatures are keeping my clock speed low

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

I have an old 770 in my GF NZXT manta case.

Card would regularly hit 78-80c while gaming. (Case has dead spot under the card where air cant flow. meh design on that part.)

I used Conductonaut. Card doesnt go above 65 now. BIG change.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI

> thermal paste replacement

Shouldn't be necessary. Some pastes have a break in period only which afterwards they perform optimally. But saying that, its good. Do what I did, put Conductonaut on there ;)

I'm joking, dont. Ask them what brand they use, then I'll judge them

EDITED:

So, apparently the Conductonaut I bought was only 1g for £7.49

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A9KIGSI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So yeah... 10G of that would be £74.99 apparently (which is almost $100). I was under the impression my little syringe was 5g, not 1g.

The ML fans have considerably more static pressure and slightly more CFM than the phanteks. Since the ML fans don't have a typical bearing like others, they should last decently longer as well. I've used both and the ML ones are definitely the superior fan. If you get the non-pro model of the ml120s, you can actually get them for the exact same price as those phanteks ones (although the non pros only come as a 2 pack iirc):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ImTqDb3PV6ZZZ

Only difference between the pros and non pros are blade color and rubber at the corners.

Only thing I recommend is taking a look at the Corsair ML 120. I don't know if you have specific reasons for getting the Noctua ones, but from experience I can say that the ML120's are great, and the 2-pack is cheaper than what you have listed. Grats on the build!

I've been running two ML120 Pros. They're currently $30 and perform nearly identically to the Noctuas, albeit a bit louder.

Like the build would only alter two things from personal experience the case and Noctua fan for better aesthetics and flow.

​

Case NZXT H500 Amazon 69.99$ and Fan Corsair ML120 29.33$ you get two fans =)

Thanks a lot! I ordered 2 of these :)

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01G5I6MRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Was thinking of putting one in the rear and one on the bottom (case is thermaltake v21 with 1 200mm fan in the front) both with the exhaust side facing outside from the case, does it sound good?

Just odd's-&-ends.

• Get a external USB 3.0 CD read/write drive (don't put a power sucker in the machine) (sub $30).
  
  
• A cheap RGB strip or two since you have a side window. I'd put one on the top nearest the window edge they don't have to blink set them just to soft white if your not a blinky fan. It will help the esthetics. (sub $20)
  
  
• If you put in a couple RBG strips get a cheap fan splitter and hide it on the back motherboard plate put all of your lights and fans into it so you only need to run one cable to the fan pins on the mother board, it's just a cleaner look. You can get a 8x4-Pin for sub $15.
  
  
• Toss all of the fans that came with the case and get at least some Corsair ML120 for £23.68 a two pack. Or the rad rgb versions if you dare. There just better fans for air flow and noise reduction.

Kinda overpriced, just paying for rgb. 212 evo or gammaxx gt are just as good for half the price

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

I have used this for numerous used/new PCs I sell. Little bit better cooler with more RGB. If you can wait and set a price alert, I've gotten it on 2 separate occasions for $25.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2M23YPGFTOBWU&keywords=deepcool+gammax+gt&qid=1566724434&s=gateway&sprefix=deepcool+gammaxx+gt%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-2

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EQVIDbXC5T0TQ

I changed the fan though

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Mc9Bb0X8GHPD

As said above, tower coolers are almost guaranteed to beat blow down coolers. Includes RGB:

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX/

That cooler is fine but if you want rgb here is this one DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.JvODbWRVSN5K

Also buy thermal paste that comes in a tube syringe thing because the paste that comes with it is in a ketchup like package

Deepcool Gammaxx 400 GT: You have a lot of color options from them but also perform really good for it's price.

Artic Freezer 34 eSports DUO: You might like it's looks a bit more while being $5~ more expensive.

The DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK has nice RGB, it's easy to install and compatible with MSI Mystic Light. Not a top cooler but it does a pretty good job for its size/price, and it ought to be more than sufficient for your i3. It's 156mm high so make sure it'll fit.

Installed 2 of these in the front as Intake and 1 in the top as exhaust.

Installed this fan in the back as exhaust.

As an FYI these fans only come with enough sound absorber pads in the color you choose to fit one side of the fan, if you want to fit both side with the same color you will need to order a box of pads in that color.

They do exist... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aIZpDbNNAHDAB

Suggestions on quiet case fans?

I just finished building a Ryzen 1800x / GTX 1070 Ti PC in a Fractal Nano S case. Things are pretty good, but the default Fractal case fans seem awfully noisy, particularly the 120mm exhaust at the back.

I tested it out, and I do need to run case fans: My CPU temp goes from 54C under prime95 with the fans on, to >68C with them off.

As per the above test with case fans unplugged, it is DEFINITELY the case fans making the noise and not something else.

That being said, I'd like some quieter fans.

Would Noctua A14 and S12 running off one 4 pin splitter for PWM control be a good choice?

Something different?

Voila:

Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wwxUBbJ4NYZ10

Brown, $21. Black $24. Does math work differently where you're from?

Hey, nothing wrong with asking questions. Which slot is your AIO currently connected to, the rear? Here's what I'd recommend to use as your top exhaust fan:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium/dp/B07655KF5C

These are what I’m using on my radiators. I’m using the white pads so they’ll glow whatever color my rgb is set to. I think noctua just did the tan/brown for a while to get the brand recognition and get their name out there, now they can afford to branch out a little bit.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fan+splitter+controller+6+to+1&qid=1564155088&s=electronics&sr=1-3

​

THAT IS WHAT YOU NEED! Check it out, that things looks dope lol

This one is decent: https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/

commander pro is a ripoff unless you are trying to run more than 6 corsair rgb fans. just get a generic fan hub like this one and plug all your fans in. The corsair fans' rgb cables can just go into their included fan hub(s).

PWM just means the fans wont always run at full speed and can be controlled by the BIOS fan curve. The corsair fans you have are PWM. non-pwm fans will also work with this hub so don't worry. The only fan you shouldn't plug in here is the CPU cooler, that should go into the cpu_fan header, the hub should go into either cha_fan1 or 2.

You can just run with 2 case fans and the cpu fan for setup, yes.

I added a non LED version of this guy to my case and they are cheap and very quiet. They come with sticky rubber pads to dampen vibration noise.

I was just going to use the molex connector that comes with this (I know i won't be able to control the speed, but it seems the easiest):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFCK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2EUTVCJXLAJ4K

Thoughts on [this CPU cooler] (https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multicompatible/dp/B002G392ZI) for an r7 1700x? Wanted something budget, compatible with am4 out of the box without needing to wait for a stupid company to ship a bracket.

Would preapplied m2 thermal paste be fine or should I buy paste to apply extra?

Don't get me wrong the Noctua NH-C14 CPU Cooler is a great cooler. But yeah, that is better for your budget.

You say you're using a Storm Scout? A Hyper 212+ will fit in that case just fine:

http://i.imgur.com/c62QS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OPeWZ.jpg


Other than that, if you're looking for a low profile cooler for the same or less than the cost of the Hyper 212+, the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 or Cooler Master Hyper TX3 should be fine. But considering the Hyper 212+ fits in the Scout, and it only costs $26 on Amazon, I'd say that's your best option.

I use this on my FX-6350 its the Arctic Freezer 7 pro Rev2 keeps my OC'd CPU at a nice 25c and best of all it cost me $12 with prime, looks like its around 22 bucks at the moment and at that price its still pretty hard to beat.

I've had the same heatsink, it was a pain to install. They use that horrible bracket and tension design, anyways I am using this now https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multi-Compatible/dp/B002G392ZI just like a stock intel mount but better, easy to remove etc. quiet. no fear of fucking the mobo up from to much pressure. I hope that does work for you man good luck

Popped one of these on for $24. Seems to be OK for now!

That's basically the same build I just did for my bf. Just had a different brand of ram, went with a PNY ssd, and had the MSI 280 instead of Gigabyte. PSU was different as well but same wattage so all's good. The mobo seems good so far, haven't had any issues with anything.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G392ZI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used that cooler and it seems to be doing a decent job and it's quiet. Bit confusing on the install but overall I'm pretty happy with it.

https://www.how-fixit.com/laptop-repair-guides/asus-laptop/asus-x556-series/

Fallow the first video and take the cooler completely off. You will need a tube of thermal paste preferably kryonaut thermal grizzly or gelid thermal paste (they are none curing) and 99% isopropyl alcohol if possible but 70% will work. After the cooler is removed, use a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol to clean off the grey paste. Add new thermal paste the size of a pea or so to each ( you cannot add to much https://youtu.be/EUWVVTY63hc) then reattached the cooler and put your laptop back together.

https://www.amazon.com/GELID-GC-Extreme-3-5g-tooling-Conductivity/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gelid+thermal+paste&qid=1565191084&s=gateway&sprefix=gelid+ther&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B07HWPS9KC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=kryonaut&qid=1565191054&s=gateway&sprefix=kry&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzOTJDRzlBTFlLTjlCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjQyOTMwNjdFVTNIUko3NFdRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMjE3OTIzTU5IS05WRk5XVUtLJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

you'd need two of these, and if you'd like one of these or these (optional). Pump/reservoir/radiator recommendations are based on case compatibility. A fan controller that is compatible with water temperature sensors is recommended as well.


However, if only one card is getting that hot, have you considered taking the heatsink off and putting on better thermal compound such as Gelid GC-Extreme? I'd try that first.

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound TC-GC-03-A
has some great reviews too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Every once in a while you see a report about what is the best paste this stuff has been winning for a while

If it's obnoxiously loud, then I'm a bit surprised to hear that you have a Nidec. Yes, it can't hurt to try replacing the thermal paste.

As has been widely recommended by other professionals on here, I went with this Gelid paste:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU

And I replaced the square pads on the RAM with this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJS8RWQ

For the thermal pads, I used a razor to cut it into small squares like the original pad sizes. If you do that, the single strip should be enough for 4-5 Pro units.

I'll check into tutorials and follow up again.

As above, Liquid Metal products scared me a little so I opted to use GC-Extreme.

A user on Overclockers UK tested many paste brands and GC-Extreme came a close second to Liquid Metal under load (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18416534).

http://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff379/stulidreviews/Thermal%20paste/Untitled2-1.png

If noise is your problem:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2

Ring is changeable red/blue or you can remove it. Can also paint it.

You want the "Quiet Edition" not the "High Performance Edition." The high performance edition is even louder. Here's what you need

oh sorry I forgot this was a water cooler Go with the SP120s they're meant for watercooling

It depends on your processor.

What do you have?

Do you overclock?

You should be fine enough, but I'd use at least 1 PWM fan.

Here's some cheap noctuas that work great:$28 for 2

Alternatively, here's some great corsiars: $27 for 2

I just put together a build with the S340 and it comes with 2 fans. One on the top (exhaust), and one on the rear (exhaust). I've since added a H60 into the rear (intake), as well as 2xSP120's on the front as intake as well. I think this is a good setup, but you may find better results with different fan orientation.

You don't need static pressure since your cooler radiator fans are already pulling good air into the case to cool the gpu and motherboard. I have a Corsair AF140 fan which fits perfectly. Here is a good video by JayZ explaining why air pressure is very important and you need a equal balance of air coming in and out. Also, if you want nicer looks, you can put these Corsair aftermarket fans for your H100i GTX to make your pc look nicer. They perform a bit better than the stock fans on your cooler, but they are much quieter and vibrate less than those. In summary from his video, you need more static pressure air coming in than out, but not so much that it is forcing its way out of leaks and channels.

The big white fan in back is a Phantek, the two with white rings are Corsair and the fans on the radiator are made by Bitfenix.

You gotta find out how many you need to cover and the sizes but these are the ones I am using:

http://koolance.com/video-ram-heat-sinks

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396836163&sr=8-1&keywords=vram+heatsinks

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


Don't think that I did anything out of the ordinary with washers or anything like that. The G10 comes with some rubber ones if that is what you mean

buy some of these heatsinks

and some thermal adhesive

and stick them on the vrms.


or if you have the reference 290x, the corsair hg10 + aio clc will have vrm cooling.

do you think that these would be better than the stacked thermal pads. Maybe i should get both and stick the heat sinks on the vrms and stick a thermal pad on top?

vrams

vrms

If you are really really worried get these and stick them on to the VRMs

You'll be fine. My EVGA 970 SSC has the same basic layout and I don't have any issues. If you're really worried you can get little heatsinks like these for the VRMs, but they're not going to make a huge difference. The mid plate on that card should do a fine job keeping everything else cool enough that any heat from the VRMs should dissipate quickly.

It looks like there is a beefy heat sink on the VRMs already, but if you run into issues down the line with the other VRMs, these heat sinks can work well for the VRMs without the cooler. I wouldn't worry about the motherboard components overheating otherwise.

I'm probably going to buy some dust filters for the front (Amazon) and take off the front panel. Should prevent most of the dust from getting in.

oh you meant it doesnt have any filters at all? if yes, that's bad, you should get some if you dont want to buy a new case , 120mm ,140mm

Here it is on Amazon. Comes in 140mm version too!

Edited from "here is is in Amazon". I'm a genius

I bought some of these in different sizes:

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U

That way they are not only easy to clean but I can move them from build to build with no problem.

Thanks. Its a great case for its price i would say. To answer your questions:

1. All the cables with the SF750 is too short if you plan to hide it, only reaches halfway. Direct routing is the only way, but ugly as hell as you can see from my 24 and 8 pin cpu. The 8 pin gpu uses an extension, hence the white cable. I would not recommend using extension for the 24 pin and cpu 8 pin, there isnt much space/gap to stow it without having problems of closing the side panel flush.
   Custom cables would be the best solution.
   
   
2. I cant take a picture now as im away for work, but my options were either Demciflex, which has a full 240mm size for ease of maintenance, or Silverstone 120mm ultra fine filter. Picked the Silvers cause it was available locally and cheaper at my country, but involves more effort in cleaning. Shipping for the Demci costs more than the filters itself, lol.
   
   https://www.demcifilter.com/magnetic-dust-filter-dual-fan
   I would have picked the 140mm ID to keep clear of screws and full bottom coverage of the holes.
   
   https://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverStone-SST-FF123B-120mm-Filter-Magnet/dp/B00ARB5E8U
   not ideal but does the job

Cool, glad I could help. Re the case fans: no, you certainly don't need to fill up all the slots. They aren't pure holes either, they are generally grated vents (think quarter inch round holes building a square on various places in the case exterior). That said, any empty space will do the same as an intake fan re dust, but to a much lesser degree. A little bit of dust may get sucked in over time. I haven't found it to be an issue with the 100r but I did recently purchase a few vent filters. Many are magnetic so they will stick right to the case without screws. They range in price from a few dollars to ten per filter, like these https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1439007555&sr=8-2&keywords=silverstone+120mm+fan+filter. My suggestion to you is if you're worried about dust, pick up the cheapest magnetic ones you can find that have good reviews. Put them over the fan holes where you do not have fans (on the 200r that would be the two top vents) and put 2x static pressure intake fans on the front of the case because the front panel should already have filters built in. I don't know where the second pre-installed fan is located on that model, but if the case already has one front static pressure fan installed and one rear exhaust fan you can drop the fan purchases entirely to start, saving you another $25 easily. You don't need to do this re the vent filters right away, just if you notice occasional dust buildup. People go way overboard on case fan cooling, but it's mainly only needed when overclocking and when people are obsessed with keeping their case extremely cool or using RGB fans to light it up like the inside of the case is hosting a rave.

You could try buying three of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U

I had the same dilemma as you and ended up setting the fans for the radiator as exhaust. This ultimately worked well for me as temperatures are very good in the case. However, I do not have a radiator on the front like you so that is going to change the dynamics of your case temperatures so ymmv.

I had the same fear about negative pressure as well. After reading quite a lot about it I think people freak out too much about negative pressure and overall negative pressure is better for cooling your system. Dust is likely going to get into your system no matter what so just make sure you stay on top of cleaning it out. I do have my front intake fans set to 80% and set the rear exhaust to 60% with my Kraken x61 on top on silent profile in an attempt to get the pressure as neutral or only slightly negative as possible.

That all being said, NZXT really should make a magnetic filter for the top so people can use it as an intake if they choose. Not sure how much re-engineering would have to go into the case though to get the top panel to fit on with a filter, though.

The case may be working "fine" but its not working for your current needs, (Cable management, disk drive space, etc.) By the time you invest in the dust filters and hard drive adapters to move the drives and cables, you could probably afford the define R5 which will solve your needs entirely.

However, that is always your decision! Here is a decient fan filter you can buy per intake fan on your case. Sourced from Amazon France, fan filter

Any interest in a high-end Silverstone SST-SX800-LTI 800W SFX-L Modular 80+ TITANIUM Power Supply LINK? New in open box, never used. Cables are still sealed and I'll throw in a free and brand new-sealed, Silverstone FF123B Magnetic 120mm fan filter Link for $165 shipped!

I sure hope you have some fan filters.

My cat sheds a lot but I have these on my intakes and it saves me a lot of hassle. Now I don't have to shave my cat or regularly clean pet fur from my components. Everyone is happy.

Oh crap, I'm stupid. I breezed passed which case you have for some odd reason. 1 Exhaust fan? You're definitely going to need more than that. At least just the side intake fan, that'll help a lot for now. You can grab a 120mm magnetic filter/mesh that you can put on the outside of the case to act as an air filter for your side intake. This way you don't have to worry about dust. I'd recommend also throwing at least another 120mm fan in the front as well to achieve more airflow and positive pressure.. I know you're aiming for silence, but computers need to breathe. If you purchase some quality fans and set custom fan curves, you can achieve low temps and low noise. Best of both worlds!

If money is tight look into fans from Fractal or Arctic. Yes, they aren't Noctua or BeQuiet but they're still very quiet and move a ton of air. Examples:

Fractal Venturi HF-12 120mm Case Fan

Arctic F12 120mm Case Fan (You can actually get a 5-Pack of these for $20 on Newegg)

You'd basically just be looking for air coolers that support 140mm fans. Something like this would be compatible:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY

I have no idea how the pricing is over there, but pretty decent Noctua CPU coolers can be had for ~$60 in America.

Noctua NH-U14S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A15 140mm Fan (Brown)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9FLSLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ww-hDb5YRRBAE

Truth be told, I haven't really needed to push mine past 3.7ghz. It's really fast as it is, and crushes anything I throw at it. For price, I'd say stick with the included wraith cooler. It looks nice, and doesn't make much noise. I believe the 212 EVO now has an AM4 adapter for it, and would work a bit better than the Wraith (not sure). If I had to buy an aftermarket for it, I'd likely get this ->https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9FLSLY/?tag=pcpapi-20

If you are deadset on the best performance, the D15 or the H110i would be a good set of options. Give PCpartpicker a looksie, and check compatibility. There are plenty of good options depending on the case. As I said, check compatability. Otherwise if the Kraken fit that's technically the best AIO you can get right now. Maybe there's a bracket for AM4 now.

I wouldn't use a 360mm, simply due to how expensive and over the top that is. Maybe you max your CPU out for hours on end? That might be worthwhile then?

Are you sure all eight cores are running at 5GHz at the same time, or are you looking at the Max column?

I'm not sure, but it's possible that the heat is saturating your overpriced (at $35) cooler and making it ineffective. If it fits in your case, you'd do much better with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?

​

​

Here's my list of parts for your build:

CPU: AMD 3600X should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming with ease. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try some overclocking later on you can do so to get some extra performance out of your CPU. If you do plan on overclocking then I suggest this cooler to keeps temps down.

Motherboard: the ASRock X570 Phantom has two PCI-E x16 slots and two PCI-E x1 slots so you can add another GPU for SLI or add a wireless card in the future.

RAM: I chose the G.Skill Ripjaws V because it has a low latency and has the 3600 speed that Ryzen 3rd gen demands. 3600 is the sweet spot for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance to this AMD CPU. It can also handle having 50+ tabs in chrome open for your workload.

Storage: the Intel 660p 1.02TB SSD has plenty of fast storage in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less cable management to do plus leaving more hard drive storage in the future.

Video Card: the ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB might not be the best on the market but for gaming it will do just fine and should run all games at 1920x1080 at 60fps. Core clock speeds at 1515 MHz and Boost clock speed at 1750 means that while gaming it will automatically boost itself to give you more performance when you need it.

Case: I chose the cheapest I could in black that gave you plenty of airflow and space to work in while building inside of it.

Power Supply: the Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still.

Case fans: I added Rosewill fans for $15 just to add some more airflow to the case. These are quiet under load and shouldn't be too loud.

Custom parts: I also added a bluetooth dongle so you can connect your mouse and keyboard since the motherboard doesn't have onboard wifi or bluetooth. For $8 it isn't bad and is a great little dongle for the money.

Total: $1068.81 USD

Summary: this is what I've gotten together for you for under your 1000 EUR budget and I hope it's been helpful. If you like it please let me know. Thanks!

I would suggest a NH-U14S or NH-D14, if you have good airflow in your system it does a better job than an H80i stock. Only downside is that you'll need a reasonably well sized case.

Yes - we made one this year and used it. The biggest lesson we learned was that the usb powered fan we used (https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=pd_bxgy_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00G05A2MU&pd_rd_r=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M&pd_rd_w=lIUEB&pd_rd_wg=eBdrH&psc=1&refRID=CN7CZE2K5CBCZ4GSY40M) had quite a low air flow rate, which was the achilles heel of the cooler.

Combined with the fact that the tents were not insulated, it did not appreciably decrease the overall temperature in the tent - you would have been better off with just a more powerful, normal fan.

However, the air coming out of the swamp cooler was definitely much colder - so if you duct it right into your face, it was awesome - but this meant only the person in front of the duct got the cooling action.

If you do it, I recommend:

• get maximum fan power
  
• make sure you duct it properly so you can direct airflow exactly where it needs to go
  
• add an insulating layer to tent (the military learned the importance of this: http://sprayfoam.com/foam-news/spray-foam-insulation-saving-lives-billions-of-dollars-in-iraq-afghanistan/1160)

Mine ran very hot when I first received it. They really should have a small fan inside the USG 3P.

After a few days I purchased a USB Fan that I plugged into my Raspberry Pi next to it, and it runs much much cooler. I bought this one and run in at the slowest speed. It's been great, very quiet.

huh, never notice that with mine. Get one of these, I use it with my receiver since it sits inside a cabinet. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-MULTIFAN-Receiver-Playstation/dp/B00G05A2MU/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504026894&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+fan

Don't run an extension cord into your shower.

I'd suggest cutting a piece of coroplast to fit the open window, and then make a round hole in the coroplast to fit something like:

A USB fan run from a phone-recharging battery-pack

An O2COOL battery fan with rechargeable batteries

An automotive aux cooling fan run from a 12v battery pack (such as a pack for radio-control model cars)

The TB15 was $299 when it was on sale from Dell.

The main issue with the TB15 was that Dell's branded Wi-Fi cards were creating a lot of interference with the Thunderbolt 3 chip due to improper shielding in the dock. If you have an Intel or Killer Wireless Wi-Fi card, thus won't be a issue for you.

Overheating is a secondary issue and only occurs when the Ethernet Jack is plugged in or if the rear USB ports are used while multiple monitors are plugged into the dock. I placed the dock on top of this fan and the problem is solved.

So no, you're not better off in dongle hell. If you're getting a TB15 around $100, then it is pretty close to the of a dual monitor TB3 dongle anyway but it is much more capable.

You may even be able to leverage Dell into replacing the TB15 with the new TB16 when it is released. There's a lot of us that will be trying that pretty soon.

Could be a faulty receiver. You could try adding a USB fan and connect it to receiver so it turns on/off with it.

This is the one I use and it works well.

well PC fans are already designed for small spaces. you're only trying to ventilate a few cubic feet of air with a space bucket/tote, after all. I've read that the rule for grow tents is to replace all the air inside every three minutes. an average 80mm PC fan is rated for 30CFM or so, and 5 gallons is only 0.67 cubic feet - even a tiny 80mm fan is plenty. they're also quieter than desk fans, and some manufacturers make high static pressure PC fans that can handle a small carbon filter.

wiring fans to AC adapters does require a bit more spending and work, but AC fans like this one are plug-and-play, though a bit louder than I would want.

I adjusted the build a bit to fit my needs a bit more, what do you say:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K | EUR 258,00 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P | EUR 111,06 @ Amazon.de
Memory | G.Skill 16GB DDR4 3000 (16 GB) | EUR 80,59 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD 1TB Blue (1 TB) | EUR 49,26 @ Amazon.de
SSD | OCZ Trion 150 (256 GB) | EUR 61,53 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 1070 | EUR 468,00 @ Mindfactory
Case | Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 | EUR 69,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | Coolermaster G550M (550 W) | EUR 72,61 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Dark Rock Pro 3 | EUR 76,55 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1258.48
| Generated by pc-kombo 20.07.2016 |

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7J4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494584874&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+3&dpPl=1&dpID=41f-YJuctCL&ref=plSrch

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

without ref link

Use the Antec case, pull the 120mm fans and replace with Noctuas, keep the 200 as that will be quiet.

Make sure to lower the fan rpm using motherboard software/bios, you can get a PWM hub to simplify things down to one port or if there aren't enough ports on the motherboard.

If all your fans will run at the same speed I'd get this. It's what I use for my 4 radiator fans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_SpKTDbYGKMDXC

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP - this one

I do not know of any option that will allow you to control 3 pin fans via PWM header.

Molex to Sata power adapters are like $1 on amazon if you're worried about that.

Are you certain that your motherboard does not have an option for DC power control?

EDIT: FOUND IT!!!

DEEPCOOL FH-10 Integrated Fan Hub, Powering up to 10 fans (3-pin or 4-pin) with PWM, Occupying only One 4-pin Motherboard Header https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-pbBb7RHHMMN

Different deal. OP is talking about a thin sheet of graphite, which can cool about as well as high end thermal paste.

Nope, this one Innovation Cooling Graphite... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK9SHZG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Although those you got are recommended, but I got these SIXQJZML 30Pcs 20x20x1mm Soft... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074K4CKG1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And used a pea size of this ( in the middle) to hold the Graphite in place. ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0795DP124?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The Graphite though you must cut to size as well as the conductivity pads to replace the old ones if needed. A Sharp blade/scissors helps. Good luck! Works wonders.

Cooler Master manufactures the Wraith cooler and the thermal paste that's pre-applied. MX-4 might be a slight bit better than the 6.5Wm/K provided by the CM stuff since MX-4 is 9.0Wm/K thermal conductivity. Not going to be much of a difference though.

I personally prefer the graphite re-usable thermal pads for stock coolers that I plan to work on more than once a year. I'm extra careful with their installation (electrically conductive, can't touch any PCB or components) and they have a conductivity of 35Wm/K, and don't ever decrease in performance or have dry out issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG

Personally, I have some graphite thermal pads coming tomorrow. My thinking was that they should cover the entire IHS completely and help spread the heat away from the one hotspot under the core. I'm currently using IC Diamond, but the stuff was pretty old, and was pretty hard to get onto the CPU, since it kept just sticking to the end of the tube. I got a maximum of 75C on my 3700x with an H105, so I'm hoping that pad helps.

I used this on my older CPU that I put to use as servers : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I didn't feel like pasting my CPU so i just went with a pad.

​

So far, slightly higher temps (about 1 degree) Which isn't worrying as the temps are really low to begin with. I'd recommend these pads to anyone at this point, especially since you can cut them to size.

I had the same problem when I swapped in my 3900x a few weeks ago. My old 2700x's pins got dinged up pretty bad.

I was using a high quality TIM (Noctua) but apparently over time it just melted/glued itself to the cpu and cpu cooler and didn't want to let go.

With that lesson learned - I have since switched to using these graphite thermal pads instead of the pastes / liquids. They are not as performance capable as the best TIM but I don't overclock and just want maximum stability, so the sacrifice of O/C headroom is no big deal to me.

From Amazon "Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (40 X 40mm)"

I would suggest a tower style air cooler in the $30-$40 range. They are the most reliable and simplest solution, and offers the most value for your money. There's quite a lot of options:

bq! Pure Rock Slim $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVNCEIG/

​

CM Hyper 212 EVO $35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/

​

CM Hyper 212 Black $37 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/

​

Arctic Freezer 34 $34 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ9MQ5M/

​

Enermax ETS-TF40F $36 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835214064

​

There's like a half dozen more options, these are some highlights looking at the current cooler prices on pcpartpicker.

So you can use the fan that comes with the case or.... grab one of these whichever catches your eye.


Noctua NH-U12S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-F12 120mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9EYVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lstIDbNAN6J5X


Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sttIDb4SDN6PP

You’ll have to add that to your pc build on pc parts picker to verify it fits your cpu base (AM4) and fits your case also. They have low profile ones like above here also


Noctua NH-L9x65, 65mm Premium Low-Profile CPU Cooler (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5utIDb725S0DG

This one is good

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1550340250&sr=8-10-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cpu+cooler&psc=1

I'm getting the new Hyper 212 EVO "Black Edition", it's slightly redesigned and it looks amazing to me :D It's $35

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541926100&sr=8-3&keywords=hyper+212+black

Any beefy cooler has a chance to cover the RAM. See good coolers below that most likely won't cover the RAM:

Noctua NH-U12s

Hyper 212 Black Edition (Does come in RGB as well)

be quiet! Dark Rock 4

For example, the Hyper 212 Black Edition for $45.49

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07H25DYM3/?coliid=I2MW2WTEP4BCWH&colid=3OXGUNB3H7VC4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

If the price difference is only $10 keep the 3600X. The performance difference in gaming and most task is so small that 3600X is hard to recommend if it $20 or more than the 3600. TechSpot following back on MSRP pricing



>Wrap Up
>
>Is the Ryzen 5 3600X worth purchasing over the 3600? Not at all. Other than to improve AMD’s margins there’s absolutely no reason for the 3600X to exist. Yes, you get a better cooler out of the box, but you’re paying $40 more for that cooler and it’s simply not worth that kind of price premium, $10 sure, but not much more than that.
>
>Rather than waste $40 on the 3600X, get the vanilla 3600 and if you want to reduce the operating volume and squeeze a tiny bit more performance out of the Ryzen 5 processor, grab something like the Cooler Master 212 Black for $30.

Amazon has the same cooler for $34.99 - $10 MIR => ~$24.99. I decided to take up the Amazon version of this offer because I'm not sure I'm going to need the cooler (miiight be getting an extra mounting bracket from a friend that'll let me mount my old Hyper 212 Plus on my AM4 socket) so I wanted the superior return options.

I'd get these
ARCTIC P12 PWM PST (Black/Black) Value Pack - Pressure-optimised 120 mm Fan with PWM and PST (PWM Sharing Technology) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_suzlDb2G37K2V

That case has a restrictive intake and pressurized fans would help with that. Also these are PWM so you can adjust to desired speed.

Alright so I converted euros to dollars and then worked off of that budget
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7Y2kCb
I believe this should satisfy most of your needs I did forget to do the fans but I think if you use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HN9qDbEV9N557
It should workout.

High key would be jealous if you bought

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5

Yes, this is every part you will need to build a PC. Maybe add some extra fans for cooling.

​

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5

Arctic P12. You can get a 5 pack for $28, normally they are $10 a piece.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-ACFAN00137A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5

Not the best fans, but they punch above their weight class. I would say a Noctua P12-redux for $15 is similar.

get the Arctic P12 PMW 5-Pack on Amazon for $30, they're great fans

Unless you care about the white fan blades, the P12 version with black blades seem to be better at moving air and quieter. Note that these aren't PWM so they'll run at max speed unless your motherboard supports changing fan speeds via voltage. Arctic fans are great value.

edit: In my opinion you should by the PWM pack, which has fans that can be daisy-chained: https://www.amazon.ca/Arctic-ACFAN00135A-Value-Pack-Pressure-Optimized/dp/B07HC782D5/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

There are fans that can be daisy-chained off of one PWM plug, so you have several fans all hooked up and behaving as one fan, with respect to speed etc. I got a set from Arctic (search on Arctic PWM PST and you can find them) - like $30 for a pack of 5 on Amazon, and you just hook the first one up to the mobo and then the rest of them get chained off of that first one. No exotic hubs or controllers or software needed.

I think Arctic says you shouldn't hook up more than 5 of them in one series, but as long as you have multiple PWM connectors on your mobo, 14 should be no problem.

EDIT: here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Black-Value-Pack-Pressure-optimised/dp/B07HC782D5/

Sorry, correction, it may be better to connect the two AIO fans to the CPU_FAN (with the two-way splitter that comes with Masterliquid), and the pump into CHA_FAN1.

On the other fan header(CHA_FAN2), connect something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fan+hub&qid=1566085844&s=gateway&sprefix=fan+hub&sr=8-3

This can connect up to 8 fans and PWM control all of them at once, and it gets power from a SATA connector from the PSU (similar to how the SSD/HDD are connected to the SATA ports and PSU).

I’m not sure what you mean by “unlike the power stuff” but the RGB hub works the same way as the fan hub.
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-8-Way-4-pin-Splitter-Black/dp/B07BWS17K5/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=rgb+hub&qid=1566086559&s=gateway&sr=8-5

does your fan controller look like this splitter without any external power connector

please tell me your mobo so i can look up the amperes of the 4 fan header.

the two gamer storm fans have a max ampere draw of .24amps (.18+/-10%) so a potential total of .48.

master cooler has max of .16.

thats a potential total of .66amperes. if ur pin header supports 2amps u will be fine

I think the Godlike is a bit much for your needs, it doesn't really add any features that are useful to you beyond what the 250-400 boards do. I think one other option to go for is the Asus Maximus XI Code, pretty nice looking board that has all you need. Does have some more data lanes to it seems, only 1 SATA port gets disabled with the m.2's installed.

One comfort you could add is a fan hub, then you can just connect all the fans to it via the back instead of running cables across the motherboard. It then has one cable that connects to the motherboard, and one cable in the back to connect power.

One note with the top fans, you might need some screw buttons to attach them, I have the same case and I don't think it came with them, it's probably intended to have a radiator block to attach to for watercooling instead of being just fans.

Beyond that I think you're all set with that build.

That's fine, just grab a fan hub like this one. It comes with tape, so you can stick it in your case and plug the 140mm fans into it.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B07N3HP8S5?th=1

Price History

• DEEPCOOL FH-10 Integrated Fan Hub, Powering up to 10 fans   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.4/5 from 101 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
• Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1700   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.7/5 from 212 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Price Chess > Price Checkers
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdupx5n%2Frbuildapcsalescanada_general_discussiondaily%2Ff788yzi%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077YHLDSP/

Well, i found the probem, it is the fucking fan-hub. The white header is kind of defect. I ordered five silent wings 3 140mm and every fan connected to the white header makes stranges noises and spins slower than the other four:
https://youtu.be/sF8T_Ofohr8


I ordered a fan-hub from amazon (deep cool) and now everything works like a charm.


I read that is fan-hub problem is very common on the evolv x, since the release. So did i get an old produced case or is phanteks lazy as shit? Damn, my nerves...

This is a thermal pad for your CPU,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Innovation-Cooling-LLC-Graphite-Thermal/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=CX5I6O9MGV1X&keywords=ic+graphite+thermal+pad&qid=1563290889&s=computers&sprefix=ic+g%2Ccomputers%2C124&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

​

It works very well, I am using one on my FX9590 and the temps are fine.

go with 2700x instead of the 1900x. if you have a use case for high core count then i recommend the 2950x. but you probably don't need it because the 2700x is awesome. 2700x also has 8 cores like the 1900x but you can go am4 rather than tr4 and save money on your motherboard. you'll also have a lesser power draw and a more compact case. 850W seems more than enough i think you can downsize to 650W. i like to spend a little more on the power supply. by going 2700x i would spend some of the money saved on a higher rated power supply. also if you switch to 2700x the stock cooler is pretty based so you can save money by using it. for memory i suggest using samsung b-die it had better success with 1st gen ryzen.

here's a parts list for a decent 2700x build:

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428M7F

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151172

https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820236027

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S250B/dp/B07M7Q21N7

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA68V7V28503

that prices out around $1050. it does not price in a graphics card, for which the Sapphire Vega 56 card you listed is already a great pick. i think those go for around $300 today. if you can re-use your current case and already have thermal paste you can decrease the price by about $150. assuming you can get a Sapphire Vega 56 for around $300 this build prices out $1200 total.

My apologies, I got mixed up with the thermal pad I’m using on my m.2 ssd.

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative To Thermal Paste/Grease (40 X 40mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcjWBbKQC6RNY

And then I am using the SilverStone thermal pad for my 970 evo since the m.2 is smushed up against the spine of the case and can’t breathe.

Stupid Question on 2600X and 2700X.

As I understand it (src1, src2) the X varieties of these CPUS will attempt to overclock themselves by evaluating run time conditions, using XFR2 and PB2. PBO2 is additionally available but will void the warranty.

​

Educate me if the above is incorrect.

​

Questions:

• Do we (r/AMD community) have data on CPU coolers and how they influence X chip performance including the included Wraith Spire/Prism?
  
• Based on this data or general knowledge does r/AMD feel after market coolers for X models are worth the money relative the the performance gain they may bring? I will do the calculations and share back based on informal recommendations.
  
• How much extra Power in Watts is consumed by the CPU when enabling a PBO scenario v not default? One could use a ~$0.08USD/KWh model for energy cost calculation of PBO overclock per year.
  
• Are there motherboard characteristics/motherboard settings I should be aware of beyond the PWM setup if I want to attempt a PBO overclock of an X chip?
  
  ​
  
  Right now the 2600X is within $20 dollars of the 2600 - so money can be spent on a separate air cooler ($10-$30) if there is some reasonable price/performance of the cooler with or without PBO. Where as the 2700X ($299) even with a recent coupon ($270) is $50 more than the 2700 ($220) which is $40 more than the 2600X ($180). The cost of the 2700X would seem to be out of line, as it essentially better binned 2600X . Again correct me about this - as it seems the 2600 line is just a 2700 with a disabled core.
  
  ​
  
  Also I am seriously thinking about a 40x40 IC thermal Pad for $13 or a 38x38 TG Carbonaut pad if someone knows where they can be bought in the US market, which would come out of the cooler budget above. Convenience of not having to reapply thermal paste 24-36 months from now, and guarantee of uniformity of heat transfer would seem to justify the pad as an extra vs bundled pastes if any.

You could try graphite pads or liquid metal instead of traditional paste. They have a higher conductivity, and thus spreads more heat. If it's the application process that has you worrying I'd go with the simple to install graphite pad. https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538749364&sr=8-3&keywords=Ic+thermal+cpu+pad

https://www.amazon.ca/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CK9SHZG

Read up on the proper application method for the paste. I believe you need to spread a thin layer throughout.

https://www.amazon.com/IC-Graphite-Thermal-Pad-X40/dp/B07CK9SHZG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525214485&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=IC+Graphite+thermal+pad

saw this on linus tech tips. its like a 1 degree difference from competitive Thermal pastes like IC diamond and its only 20 dollars USD rounded ($19.99). might help?

Hey there, gonna try turning this off.

Also, this is the graphite pad I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's the one that Linus uses in his video about them so I figured it was fine to go with since he said it was decent.

I still have an original PS4, but did it according to a PS4 Pro paste replacement youtube video.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=0LL6ZzoiR98

Only difference is used paste I already had, Arctic Silver 5, and Innovative Cooling pads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CK9SHZG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title), cut to size of each memory spot.

So I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CK9SHZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

thermal pad, and seems to have a really good reviews, would it be better to use that pad for the processor as well instead of the paste?

I would like to try it on my vega 56 card but i have found its measurements are:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_RX_Vega_series - 12.5×109 486 mm2
40x40 pads

Hyper 212 Black

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

so this’ll do?

What case? And are you using stock CPU cooler? On my 3600 I'm using a Hyper 212 BE, Meshify C, and B450 Aorus Pro Wifi. And I'm idling around 33-35c.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_-5VwDbBA33959

Your Phanteks case can use 140mm intake fans. 140mm fans can push more air (compare CFM ratings with what you have).

You could also use an aftermarket CPU cooler. That could certainly improve temperatures quite a bit. The Stealth cooler with the 2600 is very wimpy. Get the Cooler Master 212 EVO Black Edition. It's regularly recommended on reddit, and is even much better than the cooler that comes with the AMD 3900X CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

In the meantime, have you tried leaving the left panel of your case open?

Ok. Thanks. Is this the one you're referring to?: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

Arctic freezer
Or
Hyper 212 Black

This one?

I would recommend a better cooler as the ryzen cpus run a little hot



Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LrAHDbP4GNBY1

Checked the list, nice build. A few comments -

• I strongly encourage you to use an SSD over a mechanical HDD, load times will be dramatically reduced everywhere. I got the SX8200 Pro 512GB and the price is awesome for the performance of the drive at $80. Even with Win10 and a ton of programs and games installed I'm barely using half of it:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1HMMJC
  
  
• Check out this cheaper CPU cooler, the 212 Black Edition, it gets very good reviews. Keep in mind you don't actually need a cooler the 9400F comes with one, but the after market one will cool better and be quieter:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/
  
  
• I recommend the NZXT H500i case, it's considerably cheaper then the one you picked and also very nice looking, it's the one I use. You will not need to add any fans to it either your 9400F and 2070 will run very cool and quiet. Either case is great though:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Computer-digital-control-lighting-CA-H500W-W1/dp/B07CC5HLFB
  
  Good luck with the build!

does this seem like a good cooler?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

rgb version of it also if you want that.

dont expect to be doing heavy overclocking with this cooler.

What are you going to be using it for? Unless you are going to be using it as a workstation, I recommend stepping down to a i5 CPU. It's better for gaming and great for all around use.

Also any reason you went with that cooler? It's overpriced and the Hyper 212 will perform well, even with overclocking.

Now you can afford a nice motherboard like this one =]

Lastly, minor cost savings but this PSU is cheaper and more highly rated. Looks like it got restocked finally but I'd order it soon because these go out of stock a lot.

Otherwise looks great =]

I’ve got my PC build and a friend told me that stock coolers tend to get loud or cause trouble for the computer. He advised me to buy a cooler such as this one and use it instead of the Wraith Stealth Cooler that comes with the Ryzen.

Is the Wraith good enough to use for my build or should I buy the cooler listed above instead?

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition. $36.99 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=hyper+212+black&qid=1571943341&sr=8-2

How about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

Would that suffice my needs?

I have this one. I like it very much. It's very quiet.I would do your own research on what would suit you best.

>Hi All,

>Hopefully I'm in the right spot, if not, please point me in the right direction. I'm looking to replace my DS1812+ NAS with my old gaming rig (originally built in 2009). I think it's overkill, but want to make sure I don't need anything extra or am missing something that will stop this.

>This is my current setup (Besides the GPU which is an AMD Radeon HD 5850, but couldn't find that exact model):

>PCPartPicker Part List

This is all fine, but if you want a CPU upgrade you can get a 6C/12T X5670 for around $20 on ebay. Your 930 has about 5100 passmark while the X5670 has about 7850 passmark. No need to add more RAM.

>I will need to buy some 5.25" to 3.5" converters, but the MB has 10 SATA ports, so no issues there, plenty of memory. My plan is to install Xpenology (Unsure if bare metal or ESXi yet) and overall make the system as quiet as possible. I'm pretty sure I have the stock CPU Cooler still installed, so that would be the first thing to go for something better/cooler.

This drive bay converter is cheap and works great. If you're looking to make it as quiet as possible, pick up a 5 pack of Arctic PWM fans and a replacement CPU cooler.

>Any thoughts/comments/tips going forward? Do I need to keep the GPU in there, or can I just remove it from the setup completely (quieter, cooler)?

You can ditch the full size video card for something smaller such as an 8400GS, which should save you a ton of power. You won't need anything but a means of display out.


>Thanks for your help!

>Edits: DS1812+ had its MB fried and I am using the PC as a temporary solution while I sort out my next move. PC is currently running Win10 for work/uni. End goal is to have something that will be able to run Plex stream (some transcoding) at 1080p for 2 devices simultaneously and possibly use it for cloud storage in the future.

Sadly, this is just another notch in the tree of dead Synology units. I personally wouldn't recommend Xpenology, I'd look into unraid first as it's the most versatile, easy to use, and easy to expand storage focused OS.

Arctic P12. Great performance, no LED though. For decent performance with LED checkout UpHere RGB fans.

No. Look at how much precious impeller diameter has been sacrificed for RGB bullshit.

Better to combine this with this.

A reservoir that allows coolant return from the top would help a lot with your setup.

Put a X splitter on the bottom 120mm radiator and you can make that a drain point. Not optimal, but that's the lowest point of the loop.

https://i.imgur.com/UNKU1kE.png

The U-bend in the bottom radiator is still going to make it awkward to drain fully. You will need to tilt the entire case back and forth quite a bit.

Sample components:

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-150-lite You can return coolant from the radiator form the top and connect the bottom outlet to the pump directly. You also fill from the top using one of the other three ports.

Add this fitting to the bottom radiator inlet or outlet. I'd do outlet to make draining the CPU/GPU blocks easier.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-x-splitter-4f-g1-4-black-7392

You'll need at least one M-M extender to attach it to the radiator port and a few stop plugs. I personally have a ball valve attached to my X-splitter for draining purposes. Much less messy since you can screw in a hose before opening the valve.

Maybe a few 45 degree rotary fittings, especially on the top/bottom of the reservoir if you decide to do this.

You if need new fans, these are baller for radiators.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-P12-Pressure-optimised-120-Fan/dp/B07HC782D5?th=1

I was planning on putting the case fan in the GPU compartment and then maybe using some of these fans for exhaust. Not sure if I'd need both or just one or the other.

I'm a fan of Arctic fans. PWM P12's and P14's are my go-to. I have several in my Phanteks P350X case.

They sell 5-packs on Amazon for $28

You could save some money (and get more fans!) by buying an Arctic 5 fan value pack, they usually are $28 USD and they come in airflow or static pressure fans. I bought 5 airflow fans and they do move lots of air and are quiet

nah i didn't fit one up top. im not trying to move that damn thing until the pcu hits 80c. i did plug them all straight into the mobo. at .08a i feel good about it... (we will see lol) and yes i also just opened them up to 1700 despite that making pwm useless, maybe i'll turn it down at some point. they're reading around 1660-1680 being powered from mobo and you can hear them but im plenty happy with noise level. i have never reviewed fans but the one thermal take i removed to put in the four was similar to all four wide open. i thought i was going to have to split multiple headers but after a bit of looking it seems fans have come a long way. i dont know what they pull when starting but full speed is .08a their support says pwm signal is good through 4 fans so i just did four and shoved the last one in a different machine.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: fixed amperage

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCKWF2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the ones I used. So far I'm happy with them. I also put 3 of the 140mm in my wife's 3900X build in a Fractal R4. Working well. I returned the Noctua redux I originally bought for that one.

I have these ones in my build in push/pull configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I purchased my two 480 mm from Amazon used and they work awesome and appeared to be clean and in perfect condition.

Here is one 360 mm radiator for 58 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B078G4Q21K

And some others from 53 to 57 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B006097HEC

I'm looking into getting a new CPU cooler for around $50, any recommendations? Right now it's looking like I'll get the Scythe Fuma Rev. B, but I was wondering if it would be worthwhile to replace the fans with something like these ones. I was also looking at the Thermalright Macho Rev. B, and I was wondering what the difference is between it and the Le Grand Macho RT. Thanks!

the H500 doesn't come with a fan controller and the Motherboard only has two Fan headers, CPU and Case fan.


The good news is you have two options:

1. Get a Fan Controller for the PC Case. I've purchased This silvertone 8 fan-hub - connects to the mobo PWM header and it controls all the fans based on that. Drawback is it considers all of those fans as 1 fan, but it controls them all still and requires external power via an extra SATA power cord.
   
   
2. For half the price Noctua makes a set of decent PWM Splitters, that just give 1 extra fan header. Found here.

https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Splitter-Connector-Sleeved-Adapter/dp/B00DYQSZ68/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3+pin+fan+y+splitter&qid=1565607957&s=gateway&sr=8-5

This is an example of a y splitter.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=3+pin+fan+hub&qid=1565607894&s=gateway&sr=8-4

This is an example of a fan hub.
They've dropped in price since I last looked. Not nearly as expensive as I thought.

It connects to a single fan header on your motherboard and powers the other connected fans at the same speed. You can use PWM fans to avoid running them all at 100% speed, be sure to connect the splitter or hub to a PWM connector for this to work.

I’m thinking about just ordering this
SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan Hub/Splitter for 4-Pin & 3-Pin Fans in Black SST-CPF04-USA (Newest Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GXkvDb27339F3

Sorry i forgot to link it, its this one

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5&ved=2ahUKEwix45Sq5KvkAhVWUhUIHYXnC2QQFjABegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw26NmUr6AvvX9q0JQ2RhjXM&cshid=1567208965161

Get a fan with 4 pin/pwm so you can control the speed and get something like SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan Hub/Splitter for 4-Pin & 3-Pin Fans in Black SST-CPF04-USA (Newest Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_koCqDb56GZ0JM

Sure, is this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_GmLoDbCEDWDBZ

Or you can get a fan controller with pwm if you want to try a store tonight. Something like

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=fan+hub+4+pin&qid=1564270797&s=gateway&sprefix=fan+hub+&sr=8-3

Anything with good reviews like this one https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5

Probably cheaper just to buy a new fan unless you need to use that one.

I'm not sure when it comes to wifi board options. If it wasn't for wifi I would suggest the ASRock b450m pro4 as it's well priced and feature rich. If you are down to just wifi options then you may be better off finding a place to tuck silverstone's fan hub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T4kJDb2YQMP0F this week s probably also going to be cheaper and easier than going with a different board and adding decent wifi.

In terms of cases I'm not certain of better options. When I grabbed mine the versa H15 was the dullest looking case that had a mesh front and tons of places for fans it was also cheap and light which fit exactly what I wanted as after 10 years I learned that i rarely use any extra pci/e slots anyways and that smaller/lighter is so much easier when doing anything.

I'm too used to 140mm fans, they usually have higher power draw. You could run 4 of those fans off a single header (I'd be cautious tho, manufacturer specs can be deceiving), and yes, you just daisy-chain some splitters.

For a fan hub you'd be looking for something like this, it's SATA powered but it also runs a 4 pin connector to your motherboard so you can control the speed (all fans will run at the same %)

You can get a fan hub or splitter for pretty cheap. I got this hub which has 8 headers for $15. Works great and comes with adhesive to stick it wherever works best for the back compartment of your case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xodHDbRDHMQW2

Would this one work?


https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=Silverstone+8+fan+hub&qid=1558138985&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Yeah they are made for that, and way better then splitters because they draw power from the psu instead of the motherboard and can hold more fans. I would get


SilverStone Technology Silverstone 8-Port PWM Fan Hub/Splitter for 4-Pin & 3-Pin Fans in Black SST-CPF04-USA (Newest Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_srW1CbRTAGS5E

The silverstone fan hub may be a good option. I'm actually using one in my pc right now. I've had no issues with it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fan%2Bhub&qid=1557387346&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1

​

It can run up to 8 fans and it is powered by a sata power cable, the same type of power cable you use for hard drives and ssd's. And it has a pwm connector that you plug into your motherboard fan header. This allows it to use the pwm signal from the motherboard to control the speed of the fans.

The downsides are that all fans will run on the same pwm signal, so you cannot control their speeds individually. Also, there is no voltage control, so you cannot control the speed of 3 pin fans. 3 pin fans will run at max speed.

​

So I would only recommend getting this if all of your fans are 4 pin pwm fans. And ideally, you would want all of your fans to be the same model. If the fans are not the same model, since you cannot control the speed of the fans individually, they will run at different speeds unless they happen to have the same rpm range.

I would also suggest getting fan extension cables too, depending on how long your fan cables are and how big your case is.

Here you go! As many fans as you could need.

Gotcha. Is this one fine?

I have never really liked the ones that come pre-installed in cases. I don't know if there is any real difference in quality, but this is the fan hub I use.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pwm+fan+hub&qid=1556656805&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Would you guys trust the following to control three Noctua NF-F12 PWMs without shorting out?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BWFT253/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AMGCM6C9XYDRR&psc=1

or should I get the following instead?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N3HP8S5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B00L7UZMAK how about this piece instead? i did some research and found out that air coolers are better for what i want to achieve

You seem to be discounting what I'm saying and are being very accusatory over this.

You can literally do whatever you want dude. I could not care less if you make that decision.

But for the sake of responding:

You are also assuming your cooler is the same as all others

Actually I said that the only cooler I could find that outperformed air coolers was one that caused severe vibration.

>will be replaced with noctua

A fool and his money are easily parted, so the saying goes


but I think you might just be trying to find excuses to follow fears of water cooling

.......why? This comment here is so ridiculous it actually makes me kinda irked. Like I cannot understand why you would think that I'm "finding excuses to follow fears of watercooling"(???????)

My case has rubber feet, foam inserts under the feet, and rubber on all the connections. I also have a degree in mechanical engineering and have worked on pumps of a much higher magnitude and have a thorough knowledge of pumps, vibration, things like that. I went through training to be a millwright. My education taught me about thermodynamics, too.

The reason that pump causes vibrations is due to the speed it has to spin to be able to achieve the same level of cooling, well over 3000 rpm.

>I'm not discounting what you are saying, as I haven't even got the system yet to prove the other side

Then why the hell are you replying? I gave you the advice of one who has made the mistake of pursuing watercooling in the past; and recommended you save your money by buying air and not water. Let's chalk up how much each route would cost you.

On amazon, an H100i is 110$, noctua fans are 20$ a piece. That's 190$ plus whatever taxes if you swap all fans for push/pull.

Or, you could buy like ANY other air cooler such as the Dark Rock Pro 3 https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-Pro/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502592890&sr=1-1&keywords=dark+rock+pro+3 for 90$ which is engineered very nicely, doesn't have pump vibrations/pump knock/wont fail in 3 years, has some of the best fans pre-installed on the market, and is big enough and powerful enough to keep cooling your cpu even with no fans running at all.


This isnt something you even need to reply to dude, take my advice or dont, thats your call. If you feel like paying double for a higher risk thing just cause you want the novelty of watercooling, following the crowd and buying crazy expensive fans that honestly dont cool much better than the originals, thats your own decision. I gave my advice because I was hoping you'd appreciate not having to make the same mistakes.

Take care.

I am using a Kraken x62 for my 7700k. I like AIOs and this one looks great. For air tho which is not bad, Dark Rock Pro 3 is really good as is the Noctua Air Cooler

Ok my stuff is jacked up right now it's saying I got 9 comments but I can't see any of them. So what do you guys think if I can resell my off whites for a good price I might just build another rig however until then this is what I chose.

Please shit all over it and tell me something better. My motherboard is also RGB controllable or whatever for the front radiator unless putting the radiator in the front is a huge no no even if you rig it so it exhausts out the up and out the front. Okay here are the things I've decided on just by glancing over every category.

Air coolers I saw ones that looked better and even had better specs but were only $20 also it seems like noctua is still pretty strong/on top but I don't know who's on top of the cpu cooling game. I'll be posting more soon or I'll just finish it quick. I'm assuming artic mx4 compound is best now or is it still the silver artic 5?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=psdc_11036281_t5_B00L7UZMAK
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B12DQ38/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B076KNKR73&pd_rd_wg=XY5On&pd_rd_r=VAR26GMWD450BQE9HFE4&pd_rd_w=TiNwH&th=1
   
   Lastly don't laugh but i figured why not install this or are heatsinks on GPUs pointless even if I ran a liquid cooler/block? Yay or nay?
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAAU6SS/ref=psdc_3015421011_t2_B07BQVT22F?th=1
   
   Figured might as well slap this over the ram
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Airflow-Cooling-CMYAF/dp/B00GU9UG9A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526987839&sr=1-3&keywords=ram+cooler
   
   So that leaves me with the final obvious issue of many, odds are a cpu cooler that big won't fit next to my 4 dimms so is it fine to have a 240mm radiator exhausting out the front of the case. Idk why I said radiator I mean the entire computer because it's just got about an inch glass space between the mesh and two fans.

I was looking at the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3, but it comes in a lot of different W ranges (120W-250W) Any idea which one I should get?

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-Pro/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525553162&sr=1-1&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+4

It's a big un. It lets me OC to 4.4

It's a Be quiet dark rock pro 3 silent.

Well worth the money https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Fans-Cooling/Quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-Pro3-Heatsink/B00HPX7J4K

CCC

So I really like the look of the be quiet Dark Rock Pro 3 CPU cooler but I'm worried it would be too big. Apparently some people have had problems with it covering RAM slots and similar, would I have this problem?


My motherboard is the Asus Z170 PRO Gaming mobo, would I be able to get a yes or no answer as to whether it would fit or not without obstructing other ports? Also, the case I think I'll get is the Fractal Design Define S.

If it will fit in your case - the Thermalright True Spirit 140 - it provides similar performance to much more expensive Noctua coolers, at $52. It is tall as shit though, so it may not fit in your case.

Other options:

Cryorig H5, Reeven Justice, Arctic i32 all perform pretty similar to one another

I installed my TRUE120 Rev C on ASUS PRIME X370-PRO that I put together for my cousin a while ago. Early production Ryzen 7 1700 chips needed a lot more vcore to go above 3.8GHz. I got the 1700 up to 3.9GHz. Clearance around the PRIME X370-PRO was ok but I did have to take a double look. I still have my original TRUE120 installed on my Sabertooth 990FX but don't have the new universal bracket so I can't see how it fits on my X570 AORUS Master or my X370 Professional Gaming (same as Taichi). Which motherboard are you considering ?

Amazon has the universal bracket for $12
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-100700553-Optional-Mounting-Installation/dp/B00UN05Q6A/

Amazon also has the TRUE Spirit 140 Power for $50
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

TRUE Spirit 140 Power has near identical cooling and noise levels to the NH-D14 (the mounting bracket looks to be the same).

Very detail discussion on OCN also Amazon custom feedback.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1477785-thermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html

>A $1400 build should be future proof, meaning SLI as well, IMO. That's why I said that. Shelling out GPU price + new PSU is still less than new PSU + New Mobo, + new GPU, agreed?

No. You upgrade a rig like this by simply selling the 780 and putting in a faster, newer card.

The idea of 'future proofing' with SLI is a bit silly, since for most users by the time something like a second 780 drops to the realm of affordability, it will simply be a better investment to sell the old card and buy a better single card.

Putting in SLI capability with a specific plan to add a second card at a specific point in the future is fine, but generally SLI is never a good solution to '2-3 year' upgrades.

>My apologies, I didn't quite see the True spirit. I also don't see it for sale anywhere for that price. Mind refreshing me?

Click the build list link and you can reveal the manually added product link.

Here's a directly link to it. It's also available off Amazon sold through Thermalright's North American distributor, Nan's Gaming Gear.

Here's what you should have done.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $419.99
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 POWER 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $54.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A-G45 GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $0.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card | $287.10 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1024.89
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1004.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 16:27 EDT-0400 |

• Much better cooler (beats the R1), get it from Amazon though.
  
• Better GPU
  
• Better PSU
  
• Got rid of the loud and pretty bad case fans.

Ditch the NH-D15, you can get the same performance out of a Thermalright TS140BW. (The True Spirit 140 BW is a bit hard to find these days, but the True Spirit 140 Power produces the same amount of noise and performs better. It's slightly large though. $55 on Amazon).

Some games see small advantages from high RAM frequencies, but it's very marginal. You could save a bit of money by dropping down to DDR4-2666 or whatever.

You're spending a bit more on the motherboard than you need to. Unless you need features specific to that board, drop down to a more basic Z170 board.

You're going overboard on the PSU. This is a ~400W build, even after overclocking you'd be fine with a 550-650W PSU. The only reason to go for 750W is if you're planning to add a second 1080 at some point.

You probably don't need a 950 Pro. Unless you're doing things that are heavily disk-bound, you will see very little advantage from it. You'll save a few seconds booting and opening programs. Even extrapolated out over the lifetime of the system I don't think that that's worth the premium price, but maybe you disagree.

If you can fit 172mm height then https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

The Hyper 212 has been superseded by the H7 for non-frugal builds due to better performance at a good price. It's still too light for an OC'd 7700k.

If you want decent overclocking that's pretty quiet on the cheap then get one of these (if it will fit in your case): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IYEEOMO/?tag=pcpapi-20

I got you down $100.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1236.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1196.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:08 EST-0500 |

PCPP doesn't show links for that cooler (possibly because there are a couple revisions and a few names for it), but it's damn good and can be found on Amazon.


If you're willing to budge on the case, we're within $60.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1211.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1161.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:11 EST-0500 |

There's another $20 to be had if you go for a shittier SSD and $10 on the HDD. I wouldn't do the former but the latter is no big deal. WD Blues aren't anything to write home about anyway. That gets us real close. You could go to a non-modular PSU, but I wouldn't.

There's no way to drop $200 while keeping all of the expensive bits. The parts you were OK with changing only make up like $450 of the build and a lot of it you can't go much lower than what you have anyway.

The True Spirit 140 Power is a single tower cooler and the Okeanos is much louder than the D15. The PH-TC14PE is better, but it is also louder than the D14 which is louder than the D15.

Since I'm not sure where you're at, my alternative recommendations are the Thermalright ARO-M14G (https://www.hardocp.com/article/2018/10/02/thermalright_arom14g_ryzen_am4_cpu_air_cooler_review/4) or the True Spirit 140 Power (https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/). Those should be in the $45 to $50 range (at least in the US).

Options in that price range in AUS are a little limited but here are some good ones (roughly listed in terms of increasing price/performance):


Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo

Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power

Cryorig H5 Ultimate

Scythe Ninja 5



Scythe Fuma 2

Thermalright Macho Rev C.

Noctua NH-U14S

Is an air cooler an option? My $50 TS140P keeps my 7700k (4.8GHz/1.27v) pretty damn cool, topping out at 75C during synthetic stress tests

Only downside is that it's a fairly tall cooler (172mm) so If you do go that route make sure your case can support its height. Plenty of other great air coolers that would outperform that smaller AIO with much less sound output too

> out of production?

Really?

The thermalright true spirit 140 power is only ever so slighly worse but way cheaper. If it fits in your case it's the best price/perf cooler hands down.

Edit: link

On amazon you can get a pack of 4 for 15 or a pack of 5 for 23.

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-F12-Value-Standard-Cooling/dp/B00NTUJRHK/ref=pd_sim_147_19?ie=UTF8&dpID=51JrNy4vFkL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=HEQHDJFEZWWHJ9Q3APGQ


The Artic fans are loud and move a ton of air but, you should be able to cover it up with headphones. I like my carbide and I have it stuffed with fans from a local PC repair place that sells used ones for 5 bucks.

Ooh, that 650 looks nice. Would you be willing to consider a package deal, 4 or 5 fans + the 650 for $50? Also, what kind of fans are they (I ask because a 4 pack of new 120mm fans is $14.99 on Amazon, granted they are pretty cheap)?

I'd actually just recommend you go with an 8gb model over the 4gb. Would only cost about $5 more, assuming you are US based. Also, you can save some money on case fans and go with these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB8CB9O/?tag=pcpapi-20

They run quiet and I have yet to have one fail

Here are $7 Cooler Master Sickle Flow LED 3-pin fans that work pretty well if you want some color coming through: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091&cm_re=120mm_cooler_master_led-_-35-103-091-_-Product

Super budget oriented 3-pin from Rosewill, generally regarded as the best for absolute dirt cheap ($15 for a 4-pack): https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=sl1&tag=fansguru-20&linkId=6664da0240826b6b802c299fea59943d

Fractal Design 3-pin for $10 each: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352009&cm_re=fractal_120mm_fan-_-35-352-009-_-Product

Maybe someone else can add some suggestions in the budget range.

These are the case fans that I'm buying. I don't have a fan controller, but I plan to get one in the future when I get a new case (probably a month from now). For now though, I'm planning to use a 2 4-pin to molex adapters, then a molex to 6 pin PSU connector to connect 2 of my fans, and the other one goes in my motherboard, so I'll be using 3 out of the 4 fans that come from the pack.

be silent

noctua (cheaper ver), noctua (nicer one)

There also these if you don't care about quality.

I have these... they are quiet.

There's no need to spend $70 on a fan.

How many fans do you need for a case? My mid tower only came with 1 fan should I buy more?

I'm looking at these they are fairly cheap, or should I not cut corners?
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491274962&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=case+fan&psc=1

Looks like your case can support up to five fans total. Two up front, two up top, and one at the back. Check this fan pack out. If you're on a budget, this will do the job.

Rosewill 120mm Long Life Sleeve Case Black Case Fan For Computer Cases, 4-Pack Cooling ROCF-13001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OrCLyb6R2D3QV

Extra case fans never hurt and are cheap! so if you want some better temps take these https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4+pack+case+fans&qid=1557537536&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Enjoy!

there's likely even better options out there

But if you want a few fans: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543596528&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=120mm+case+fan

Rosewill is generally alright and individual cost of ~3.74 each is far better considering you won't have that good ol' Intel stock fan whine

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).

With Ryzen you want high frequency RAM. There's about a 10% (maybe more?) performance increase from using 2400 to 3200 RAM. Get the 3200 RAM.

Other than that everything is good. PS: You don't need extra fans. If you think you do after you build the PC, buy a pack of Rosewell fans from Amazon. You can get four for $14.99.

Okay I looked up the MSI Twin Frozr 8gb model and it looks really good and only a little bit more expensive. My current card runs really hot and was planing on buying some fans. Any 10-15 dollar sets I should buy?

Ex. 1

Ex. 2

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.


If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.


Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

I just woke up when I posted that and didn't know it was you and thought you meant literal case fans. Those would be way way overkill because they are meant for pushing the most air while being silent and you'd really spend that much maybe to throw on your radiator, full size case, HTPC, have $$$ etc..

With my hardware hoarding I was going to send you about 6 of the same 80mm fans if you wanted but they were gone when I gave away 2 cases I guess but I tested a 60mm from God knows when and now I remember why 60 to 80 was a big leap because those things give off that annoying high pitch and don't blow any air.

My 80mm fans were these which were great: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103025

For best noise to airflow I think these might be the best: https://www.amazon.com/Enermax-Case-Fan-Cooling-UC-8EB/dp/B000XBF466

I can do research if you need for fans if that is your setup with many variables. You said 30Q over the VTC5 because of the heat even though it performed better but who knows with those little fans not covering a lot of area that one was slanted just a little bit or wearing out and threw it all off. +

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZJYDM15BAKPX2G29JKQ1 = Just saw 4x 120mm fans 38CFM for $15 which is a great deal.

Unfortunately they are part of an ongoing build that isn't complete yet so I haven't test them out. However according to the box they push 49.26 cubic feet per minute at 13.2 decibels. Compare this to the #1 computer case fan on amazon which pushes 38.2 CFM at 22 decibals; albeit it is 120mm. A comparably priced 140mm fan pushes 66.4 CFM at 25.5 decibals.

The Noctua's don't push as much air as the other 140mm fan but they are way quieter, but it does push more air then the 120mm fan and is much quiter as well. Don't forget the decibel scale is logarithmic so 25.5 dBA is about 2.5 times higher "volume". Its a matter of trade off I guess. I am building a low power server so I needed these quite fans over high volume pushed. That is not to say you can't just add more of these fans to your case and get comparable airflow.

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Bearing-Computer-ROCF-13001-Standard/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=case+fans&qid=1574811793&s=electronics&sr=1-5

https://www.amazon.com/uphere-3-Pack-Computer-120mm-Cooling/dp/B072LDYKQ6/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDI1-ac_d_pm&keywords=case+fans&pd_rd_i=B072LDYKQ6&pd_rd_r=fb2caca6-005a-417c-ae09-e88fc28cb50e&pd_rd_w=Hx4og&pd_rd_wg=FhXhk&pf_rd_p=02e79b16-eab7-4369-852f-d04a58a4d9b5&pf_rd_r=ENFTE0FPEM4HSC7QQ3GV&psc=1&qid=1574811793&s=electronics

Are either of these fine for my case and build? If not I'll just get two Arctic F12

i am running these fans in push/pull, and actually am quite enjoying the low noise compared to before. the fans previously on my AIO were quite loud, and inefficient, it actually runs cooler with 4 of the new fans, at lower noise levels than it did before. and yeah a 360mm AIO is definitely planned fr the future, but that probably won't be a while, as my next big upgrade needs to be my GPU. starting to actually play games that need more than a 1050 ti to run them (not that i can complain, i didn't have to pay a penny for the 1050 ti)

Debating these too.

https://www.amazon.ca/product-reviews/B00KB8CB9O/ref=acr_dpproductdetail_text?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

These fans are not going to be super quiet but they are cheap and will definitely get the job done. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KB8CB9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1450768430&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Computer+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=411Ndlu3djL&ref=plSrch

If you're willing to pay more I'd recommend going for some fans made by corsair

These are the fans I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KB8CB9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479575416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=computer+fans

They aren't LED, but it's a 4 pack for $15. I use them and they're pretty quiet.

Meh, £8.27 with free delivery. Really not very expensive and there's only a risk if you can't spread it properly, even then you just clean it off.

Here it is https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 1g (TG-C-001-R) Yep i think it was liquid

Kryonaut, Gelid Extreme and MX-4 are all good. Kryonaut is the best one imo (12,5 W/mk, that's thermal conductivity - not to be mistaken with the paste being conductive - it's not) compared to 8.5 on Gelix and MX-4. I also like how easy it is to spread around

Liquid Metal is conductive (Conductonaut). Here's a good video of doing the whole thing (especially the tape part so you don't have to deal with cleaning spillage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGrErLzePdw

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9FgPxr/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060024ww
h80iv2 and if money is no object i would think about delidding your cpu and using something like https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI which IS conductive so be sure to do it right and watch guides if you do it. you may also want to replace the fans with something like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ntXfrH/noctua-case-fan-nfa14industrialppc3000pwm or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LkJkcf/corsair-co-9050040-ww-750-cfm-120mm-fan-co-9050040-ww
which are a bit beefier and ofc using after market thermal paste like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3wLypg/arctic-cooling-thermal-paste-mx2r or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WtvRsY/antec-thermal-paste-formula7

using itx is cool and easy to move but the thermal challenges get a bit more expensive to deal with. price you got to pay for atx performance in a mini itx.

Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I still believe that, as well. Razer replaced my unit twice, so I went through a total of three units with similar results. To clarify, TF-8 isn't LM, it's just a higher-end TIM with a thermal conductivity of 13.8 W/mK (source). In comparison, Arctic Silver 5 has a thermal conductivity of 8.9 W/mK (source), Corsair's XTM50 has a thermal conductivity of 5.0 W/mK (source), and Kryonaut has a thermal conductivity of 12.9 W/mK (source). On the other hand, LM has a thermal conductivity of 73 W/mK (source).

Between the TF-8 that I prefer and the FujiPoly Extreme pads I prefer to use (I use a caliper to measure the stock pads width and apply the same width, so it's a straight exchange with a higher thermal conductivity at 17 W/mK) I expect to be able to dissipate that heat quickly and thus have lower temperatures. That said, every gaming laptop on the planet is moving towards thin and light, and while these high performance parts are drawing less and less power and thus emitting less and less heat, OEMs aren't balancing the rate by which component manufacturers are producing more thermally efficient components with the rate that we're shrinking our devices.

100% worth it. I run all cores @ 5Ghz and sit under 60c when 100% load. I delid and I use Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on the chip / IHS, and normal ~8.3W/mK on the IHS / Water block (larger surface area)... if I take it apart again, I'm doing the Conductonaut on the IHS.

edit: to answer you question, I have only one printer. I believe it was all of 40ml of resin to print this tool. After UV curing, the standard black resin has 65MPa tensile strength.

Just make sure its Liquid Pro, Liquid Ultra, or Conductonaut.... If you're going to do something, do it right.... ;)

Are you intentionally paying a premium to try to get it from someone today or tomorrow? Because it can be had on Amazon for $16...

Here is a link to a post in r/PS4Pro

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4Pro/comments/8etw4x/changed_tim_to_liquid_metal_on_my_ps4_pro/

​

You basically replace the old thermal paste on the APU with one that transfers heat more efficiently which in this case, it's liquid metal. You can probably get the it on Amazon.

>Is it worth delidding an 8086k if I am only going to do moderate overclocking?

Well cooler is always better when it comes to most PC components, and CPUs are no different.

As for if it's worth it, if you feel comfortable doing it, I guess why not, but there is always a risk, so if you do it yourself, it's at your own discretion.


>If I do, what's the best delid tool and thermal paste to do it with?

Bare in mind that I haven't delided anything, so all of these recommendations are based on what others recommended.

For the deliding tool, I'd use the der8auer Delid Die Mate 2 (tutorial).

As for liquid metal, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut seems highly regarded. (Amazon link)

You need to use thermal grizzly conductonaut. It worked like a charm for me. you can ge it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520263293&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut

But make sure you know what you doing. Otherwise you will brick your laptop

Fantastic. Great input. I'll get some thermal paste actually that's a good call.

Is this accurate for the colour?

https://i.imgur.com/Y1m1VXW.jpg

EDIT: Just to be clear I take it electrically conductive pastes are out of the question?

Trying to decide between this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermal-Grizzly-conductonaut-heat-compound/dp/B01A9KIGSI

and this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Grizzly-Kryonaut-compound-compounds-5-5g-250/dp/B00ZJSF5LM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SZRKP3AY70WN7RNX0YK6

Base model Blade 15 2018 with 1060

For best thermals:

Thermal pads and liquid metal

as well as this conformal coating to prevent the liquid metal from allowing conduction to happen.



in ThrottleStop


for performance
and for Battery

Then if you want to get even better thermals
this cooling pad giving me these idle temps and these temps in Assassins Creed Odyssey after 3 hours of play Connected to my Core X Chroma.


With 32gb of RAM and 4tb of storage between the 2tb sata and the 2tb nvme drives it's my work computer with A couple VMs running and lots of chrome tabs and my main PC when i'm home plugged into the core.

if you don't like the Razer logo on the back you can get a dbrand skin on it with no logo cutout

These. They are very similar to the ML120 Pro which costs around 25 bucks each, same fan just minus some trimmings like the anti vibration pads.

This? https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK

I could probably afford that.

Also another noob question but how do you change If the fan pulls air in or puts in out?

Sounds good. Check me new post. Here they are. Practically brand new. Corsair ML120, 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AXODAb9147SAW

Posted this question yesterday, but hope I've got a better chance here.

At the moment my only case fan is a 200mm intake fan. I want to add two case fans(one exhaust, one to cool the VRM) to get temps and noise down.

I've been looking at the following fan packs, all from Corsair:

• Air SP120
  
• Air AF120
  
• ML 120
  
  Which of these would be best for my intended use, or is there a better option with two fans for under €30?
  
  Thanks!

Just build your own

Pick a full ATX size case of your choosing, otherwise:

Cost: $3,050 (assuming you pick a $100 case)

24 core Threadripper: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Threadripper-48-Thread-Processor-YD297XAZAFWOF/dp/B07JBQJ1D9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=threadripper+24+core&qid=1567631080&s=gateway&sr=8-1

CPU cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-TR4-SP3-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B074DX2SX7/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=threadripper+cooler&qid=1567632057&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-X399-AORUS-PRO-Motherboard/dp/B07K8SJPMB/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=threadripper+motherboard&qid=1567631029&s=gateway&sr=8-2

256GB DDR4: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC4-21300-2666MHz-CT32G4RFD4266-Registered/dp/B07X1TLVJN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ddr4+128gb&qid=1567631174&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNlQ4T1Q5NjdFTTE4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDIxNzcxMUpSRDBXMDNVRVFJNiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTU2ODkzM0hOVktPV01VNDkzOSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

850w Titanium PSU: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-HX750i-Platinum-Certified-Modular/dp/B07MRF491W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=PSU&qid=1567631287&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE3UFRNUEFFQkQ3WjAmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5MTc0NjMzUk0yWThJSUg3TDZWJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5OTcyNjYyV1hZNE9RQUE3Q1dPJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

A basic GPU for video out: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-DirectX-Express-01G-P3-1302-LR/dp/B0049MPQA4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=gs+8400&qid=1567631914&s=gateway&sr=8-2

SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E250B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Samsung+SSD+128GB&qid=1567631523&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Fans: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=pc+fans&qid=1567631637&s=gateway&sr=8-10

A few, you could go with a normal Corsair 120mm fan, if the old fan is soldered directly to the PSU I would cut the wires close to the fan, and solder a 3/4 pin connector to the wires, then attach the fan that way. If You don't have an extra fan connector you could scrap to do this I would suggest this one https://www.amazon.com/Electop-3-Pin-ATX-4-Pin-Molex/dp/B01MQ42KMV/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1536641156&sr=8-16&keywords=fan+connector

here is a basic 120mm fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=twister_B07843K53J?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

But if you wanted to Just cause you can and don't mind very loud fans, you could do this one https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Electronics-AFB1212GHE-CF00-120x120x-connector/dp/B004X2M2GG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536641387&sr=1-4&keywords=delta+120mm+fan

So do you think I can fit a 240mm fan inside of it? Because it doesn't really look even big enough. And If I do get that, then are these fans fine. Not sure how sizes work or anything. Amazon Link

corsair ml120 are my personal favorite.

Here

Or here

Yessir
https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492305727&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+ml120++fans

https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502803565&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=corsair+ml+fan

these are the quietest fans i have ever heard.

Yeah, im gonna shelf the fan that comes in the case and grab the 2 pack of this https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Premium-Magnetic-Levitation-2-Pack/dp/B01G5I6MRK that was on warehouse deals for 31$. Worst case scenario is that i need to return them.

Are you referring to the liquid cooler?

You don't actually need it, the stock cooler that comes with the R5 2600 is already sufficient.

• • -
    You also don't really need any additional case fans.
    
    Regardless, I recommend the Corsair ML120 2-Pack for $35; they give great performance for the dollar.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5I6MRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I bought. Some reviews say it's comparable to some Noctua. I wonder if my fan speed is an issue, I'm at idle and if I'm reading it right they are at nearly 1500 rpm. Seems high.

Amazon has it for the same price

I have corsair maglev fans and they are wonderful. Machine is whisper quiet at idle with only a bit of noise under load. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01G5I6MRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 these guys.

It was salvaged from my previous PC. Idk why I bought that power supply for my previous PC since my previous PC had one foot in the grave already haha. But it helped me save some money for my current build!

So you think I should be able to overclock my current PC with no issues? I’m always a little concerned about overclocking since I’ve heard it voids any warranties you have on your PC parts and I want this PC to last at least 4-5 years.

(Forgot to list that I currently use this CPU cooler: DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DxSuDbY0R3XHX)

I can't find it on amazon, but what I do know is that the deepcool Gammaxx GT (or 400) is a high performing cpu cooler at a low price.

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=deepcool+gammaxx+400&qid=1568912908&s=gateway&sr=8-6

This would be more than plenty since you're not going to overclock.

Any recommendations for a CPU cooler with some RGB functionality? Specifically RGB Fusion compatible. Motherboard is an Aorus B450 Elite and case is an NZXT H500. So far, I've found the DeepCool Gammaxx GT BK and the DeepCool Fryzen. Are either of these good choices? Would I be better off just getting a RGB fan and attaching it to a good cooler?

Do you think these are good choices?

CRYORIG

ARCTIC

DEEPCOOL

Something like a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RGB for €40 or a Deepcool Gammaxx GT for €35. Both are solid options for not a lot of cash. And I'd probably pick both over the the Wraith Prism, unless you can get it for under maybe €20.

The stock cooler will be fine, but I have this cooler on my 2700 and it works great even overclocked:

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.s4ADbXJV05WK

Hah, yeah I hate the looks of Noctua products, but they work really well. This is the one I use on the 3600 and it works really well (I run at 4.2Ghz).

The 5700xt is a good card and will be able to do 1440p well, the only reason I recommend Nvidia for GPU is that the 5700 has a lot of driver issues right now and AMD is notoriously slow to correct them. If you can be patient with it until they've smoothed it all over, it's a solid choice.

As for Sabrent, they're really popular here and for good reason. TLC NAND and really good read/write speeds. The read/write speeds on the crucial drive you listed are pretty slow, if you'd rather stick with a big name there's the Samsung Evo 970 series which are a little pricier than the Sabrent, but a lot faster than the crucial. Here's a link comparing the two, and the sabrent is just slightly slower than the 970.

Ram works with any cpu, motherboard model does not matter as long ad u know what memory it takes. You said you use DDR4, so any DDR4 memory would work in your system regardless of speeds.

I couldnt imagine your gpu running hot so its gotta be the cpu. If anything just get a fresh coating of thermal paste, dust it out with some air canisters and you should be good to go. If there is still problems after that then you might need to pick up a new cpu cooler.

Heres a cheap option:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lKgWDbTTZMCXC

MSI Mystic Light help: Would it be possible to set up this cpu cooler and these case fans to be fully rgb controllable through an msi b450 carbon pro mobo? If not, could you control the cpu cooler along with the case fans through the argb controller that comes with the case fans?

Thank you! I found cable management to be the harder part of building but after a couple tries I think I got everything where I want it! Also the name of the cooler is DeepCool Gmaxx GT, it looks better from the side when you get to see the fan. Amazon Link here for anyone curious!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074P3JCXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the list from the post. He bought the suggested parts.

Published on Jul 5, 2019

Gaming Benchmarks & Prices for this PC: https://youtu.be/L8hmFm_Z2NM Here is my step by step tutorial on how to build my $600 Spark V2 gaming PC! Links to parts, tools, and resources are below. How to install drivers on this PC: https://youtu.be/uDHeIx9CNxA How to install windows on this PC: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM Social Media: INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/scattervolt DISCORD: https://scattervolt.com/discord TWITTER: https://twitter.com/MarcAranibar ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts List: Buy the CPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2RLpfGS UK: https://amzn.to/2IZGktR CA: https://amzn.to/2Xe48mu EU: https://amzn.to/2FINgcH Buy the CPU Cooler here: (optional) US: https://amzn.to/2NmbjVh UK: https://amzn.to/2YpAib8 CA: https://amzn.to/2LuP2BR EU: N/A Buy the MOTHERBOARD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Xa6VZb UK: https://amzn.to/2FJUYU1 CA: https://amzn.to/2NxkQJk (ATX version, cheaper) EU: https://amzn.to/2xjq00m Buy the RAM here: (different brand, same specs) US: https://amzn.to/2LzikiK UK: https://amzn.to/2IXjWkW CA: https://amzn.to/2JjrtJN (single stick, still 8GB) EU: https://amzn.to/2YjTgA8 (2800mhz, still fast though) Buy the GPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2ZXbCal (different model, cheaper) UK: https://amzn.to/2xmm3Z2 CA: https://amzn.to/2RLlVLI EU: https://amzn.to/2JgfXyG (different model, cheaper) Buy the SSD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Ls5ClV UK: https://amzn.to/2XftxY6 CA: https://amzn.to/2RQ59ve EU: https://amzn.to/2xlJstn Buy the PSU here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEqgWp UK: https://amzn.to/2xrGu6x CA: https://amzn.to/2XJW9gi EU: https://amzn.to/2XeVHlW Buy the CASE here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEwuWm UK: https://amzn.to/2xvOTpX CA: https://amzn.to/2NpVKMe EU: https://amzn.to/2IYym44 (Optional) RGB case fans: US: https://amzn.to/2XhH7z4 UK: https://amzn.to/2LsQmW9 CA: https://amzn.to/2XgfNMX EU: https://amzn.to/2J2T82u ---------------------------------------------------------------- PC Upgrades: If you have $25 More to Spend: (SSD Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2Nxsvaa UK: https://amzn.to/2Lzj8Ei CA: https://amzn.to/2RONZy6 EU: https://amzn.to/2LptJlc If you have $75 More to Spend: (CPU Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2XhOou4 UK: https://amzn.to/2FCNzpB CA: https://amzn.to/2XBPkxr EU: https://amzn.to/2XimLWs -------------------------------------------------------------------- PC Accessories/Building Tools: Handy Magnetic Screw Driver Kit: US: http://amzn.to/2Fdh03o UK: http://amzn.to/2FWsndf CA: http://amzn.to/2FROG3u DE: N/A Bios Speaker (for troubleshooting): US: http://amzn.to/2FokCi6 UK: http://amzn.to/2FokKOC CA: http://amzn.to/2oK2DsU DE: http://amzn.to/2FTLSmv USB Wifi Adapter: (For a wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2WsrqE3 UK: https://amzn.to/2JNrNDp CA: https://amzn.to/2M8FXk9 EU: https://amzn.to/2VVLEl8 PCI Card Wifi Adapter: (For a faster wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2XCtslr UK: https://amzn.to/2IYnnrw CA: https://amzn.to/2ZXccVz EU: https://amzn.to/2FHN65u Cat7 Ethernet Cable: (For a wired connection, fastest, plug into router) US: https://amzn.to/2W9dShq UK: https://amzn.to/2MfphaM CA: https://amzn.to/2W4XNt0 EU: https://amzn.to/2JK1DkP Windows 10 Home: US: https://amzn.to/2EByu7c UK: https://amzn.to/2HEIIWj CA: https://amzn.to/2YRlbqJ EU: https://amzn.to/2YRIxgc *Here's how to install Windows 10 for free on your own USB drive: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM

I'm honestly not sure. I'd say go for it and get one of these if the right fan is too big.

That’s exactly where I will be gaming! Case fans are these

Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (140mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FsJkDbG8DGWCD

Called Noctua Chromax. Slightly more expensive, but at that price point, would go for the best. They are exactly same as the classic brown fans, but now all black. Case fans and cooler fans (pressure vs flow).

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511446342&sr=1-4&keywords=Noctua+chromax

I am not sure if you knew and I apologize if I am just recommending fans you essentially already own but you can get the Chroma Noctua NF-F12 and NF-A14's which are black and have different color rubber edges to match case colors. The Chroma F12's are perfect for radiators and the A14's are great airflow and case fans. Seems to be what your looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJZRKVPGXW61XQ8FFD94

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07655KF5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

What is the difference between the regular and the pro version of the ML140?

Also, would they be better then these Noctua fans? I hear great things about that company and I am surprised to find ones without that awful color.

Thanks for the input. I'm going to get a new fan. Looking at these 2 noctua fans any input would be appreciated

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-4-Pin-PWM-Controlled-Ultra/dp/B00KF7Q4WG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=noctua%2Ba14&qid=1561980183&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&th=1

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Chromax-Black-Premium/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=pd_sbs_147_6/259-9422388-7911165?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07655KF5C&pd_rd_r=c03e4d08-9bf2-11e9-928f-5119d4ade27c&pd_rd_w=Y5AGs&pd_rd_wg=O64rw&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=KBCMWSQRQQMAX6SXGHXV&psc=1&refRID=KBCMWSQRQQMAX6SXGHXV

Just to be clear, you're talking about


This: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_pa_web_2530014011 for the 140 mm

​

This: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-S12A-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07657VBQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541649137&sr=1-2&keywords=s12a for the 120mm, right?

​

Will getting these

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=noctua+chromax&qid=1558921353&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

result in lower cooling performance compared to the fans the NHD15 come with?

Id rather get this for 2 more dollars. 22$ Phanteks on Newegg. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade/dp/B07655KF5C

Here is link to fan performance https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_155827815765813&key=504c5ff67d3c4430d65443a38397e67e&libId=jvv2k9iu01023z6x000MAas31q9j7&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Fforum%2F246-air-cooling%2F1620859-ml140-vs-nf-a14.html%23%2Ftopics%2F1620859&v=1&opt=true&out=http%3A%2F%2Fthermalbench.com%2F2016%2F07%2F29%2Fcorsair-ml140-pro-140-mm-fan%2F3%2F&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&title=ML140%20vs%20NF-A14%3F%20-%20Overclock.net%20-%20An%20Overclocking%20Community&txt=%3Cspan%3Ehttp%3A%2F%2Fthermalbench.com%2F2016%2F07%2F29%2Fcorsair-ml140-pro-140-mm-fan%2F3%2F%3C%2Fspan%3E

Case fan will depend on size of the opening for in your case. It will either me 120mm or 140mm: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oc9c8LFY1bg

Here are the good fans (120 & 140), only brand I trust:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-Black-swap-Premium/dp/B07655KF5C/

You don't need to have a shop install them, you can do yourself. (see YouTube Video)

You DO need to find an open fan header on your motherboard first, before buying or installing.

No, below is the link. They are just the black version of the nice ones but with some changeable rubber silencing corner pads

Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap premium-grade quiet 140mm fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9xgQAbTRBCC56

ordered mine here… https://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-Premium-Lüfter/dp/B07655KF5C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=a19x14+chromax&qid=1574243187&sr=8-2-fkmr0

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07655KF5C

Few things to consider:

2.50" x 4.92" or Approx 63.5 mm x 125 mm is the footprint of a SFX PSU
3.39" x 5.91" or Approx 86.1 mm x 150 mm is the footprint of a ATX PSU
This leaves a difference of .89" or 22.6 mm


The AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G is 55 mm thick being 15 mm thicker than a FE card which we already know can fit with a standard ATX PSU


Using this adapter You can place the SFX PSU as close to the bottom of the case as possible
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Universal-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01BYB33J8


Here is a 800 watt SFX PSU which is the biggest I know
https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silent-Modular-SX700-LPT/dp/B01NALZ89C?th=1


Also there is room in this case for: 2 fans on the front, 1 fan on the bottom, 2 on the top, and 1 on the back so I would also recomend a fan hub like this one from Deepcool that would allow for fans all running at a given PWM setting
https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP


I had already been planning this for some of my builds to give room for a standard dual slot card to breathe since the nano has a very limited space between the PSU and GPU. I would actually recommend this to anyone using a non FE card with this case as it will allow your card a better chance to cool properly.


If you are about to do this soon please get some Pics and share so others can see this too.


TLDR: YES

I think they misunderstood you, as he said a 10-fan hub for an additional $15 it would bring it to the same price as the Gamdias $49.99 (after rebate) option.

Anyways this was the first thing I found on Amazon, 10-fan hub for $15: https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP

Would this one work?

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=150U0OXPNCX7R&keywords=fan+hub+pc&qid=1563143376&s=gateway&sprefix=fan+hub%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3

My case is a corsair 280x, it has two chassis fans as standard. Im currently using an Asus Prime B450m-a motherboard which already has two chassis fans in it, i then bought another two Corsair LL120s to go with it, to then find that my motherboard only has two chassis fan connections, i have just found out... had i known this i would have looked at others, but its a bit too far down the line to be getting another motherboard.

ive done some quick research online and discovered that fan splitters are a thing but that the power load output from the motherboard means that i wont be able to do this, is this true?

i believe i have two options, either get the splitters and see if it works, or get a fan hub:

fan hub

fan splitter

is there a better option of the two? im assuming i should go for the fan hub? if so, are there better fan hubs out there compared to the one i found that isnt too expensive at the same time.

additionally the 280x comes with an iCue fan controller, im assuming this wont act as a fan hub that i can directly power them to? i would need to plug the power of the fans into a fan hub and then the other connection from the fan into the icue hub?

Thanks for all the help, hope my explanation made sense, if you need more info please let me know.

I have something like this for my build:

Deepcool Fan Hub

I have only two fan headers (one cpu fan header and one hybrid fan header). The fan hub takes power from the psu and you plug in to the mobo, it can support up to 10 fans. Pretty cheap and has been working great so far.

Here you go. Side note if you google windows 10 key you can find it for around 30$
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZM2zJ8
Also a fan controller.
https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=fan+hub&qid=1557464174&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

4 pin and 3 pin work all the same, but PWM fans should be 4 pin

CF-120 from deepcool

Yeah, is the same cable, but they are 5 in one, i know how to search it now, thanks

You think that if i buy a rgb controller it work like the cable?

DEEPCOOL RF TF Ventilador, FH-10, Fan HUB https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MMt3DbRYQ7SHQ

DEEPCOOL FH-10 Integrated Fan Hub, Powering up to 10 Fans (3-pin Non-PWM or 4-pin PWM), Occupying only One 4-pin Motherboard Header https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zK.2Db3ED37MD
3 pin dont have PWM features that what the 4th pin is for I believe

Usually on the website for the case it will tel you what fan sizes the case can have in each spot, how many fans it can have, and which ones come with the case. See where is says cooling system? That's where it is! Basically just search whatever case you're looking for go on company's website and it should be there. As for which ones to get, just get ones that fit in each spot, that's what I did at least. I have a HAF 912 case (HAF=high airflow) so granted it will have great airflow regardless, but I maxed out the fans and have a hyper 212 evo and my CPU never goes above 40 C unless I'm ocing. I would get this fan if you're looking for a 120mm this fan if you're looking for a 140mm and this one for a 200m. Obviously you caan get different colors etc, but that model is imo the best value by far. Gl! I'm going to bed, I'll continue answer questions in the morning :D

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398878528&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+120mm

120mm. These are what I used on the Hyper 212+ and on the front.

Note: These can not push 90CFM like told in the specs. They push more like 65ish CFM at 100%.

edit: If you don't want to spend a lot of money on case fans, take a look in to doing the 7v fan mod. Just get a bunch of resistors (or get a trimpot/pot) at Radioshack/online/salvage and get the voltage down to 7-9v. That will more or less reduce the noise significantly but at the cost of lower airflow (which isn't too much of a problem for normal use including gaming; it will only be somewhat of a problem during P95 load/benchruns/stress tests).

Thanks. Gonna get this case with these fans.It's gonna be beauts.

more blue fans

I think I might just pony up the $5. I want this damn thing to be built already. I've had so many issues with returns and such.

Which should I buy? These are the fans I have:

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFCK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00


3 or 4 pin splitter? The 3 pin says it still has a tachometer wire?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121612779839

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111901447552

I thought most fans drew in the range of 3-5 watts under load? Is that fan perhaps an outlier or are those numbers not accurate? I just checked two on amazon and they draw 4.2W and 4.8W respectively. Maybe it's just because those are rgb ones but 3-5watts was a figure I saw everywhere.

Edit: It looks like the Noctua I use draws 6.6watts at load and some of their other 3k rpm fans draw up to 7.9watts. To truly get an accurate number here we'd have to know how the power draw scales as rpms decrease, I imagine it's not linear.

A possible fix is to peel the sticker on the back, put a few drops of sewing machine oil into it, and spin it with your fingers to work it in. Don't forget to cover the hole with the sticker or tape when you are done.
If this fan does not have an opening, you may just need a new fan. I am assuming that this is a 120MM fan, which you can buy here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026ZPFCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_SQNnzb961QGHW

https://www.amazon.it/Coolermaster-R4-L2R-20AC-GP-CoolerMaster-Ventola-12cm/dp/B0026ZPFCK?th=1 would this fit as an exhaust fan?

Edit: Duh i'm dumb 120mm is 12cms :D (sorry it's 4 am )

Haha I actually posted there already asking about the Sentry 2's compatibility with these. Are there any fan controllers that you can recommend aside from the Sentry 2?

Here's one It's cheap, eligible for prime and available in 3 different colors.

Ordered these fans cause they look cool, cheap , and everyone agrees that they push air massively (at 2000 RPM i think anything could) as upgrade/pair with stock case fans. But reviews are either 50/50 that they sound like jet engines at max speed (also another reason to buy, if they do ill laugh till i cry) but obv no one wants a pair of jet engines on their desktop, so if they do sound ridiculous whats a decent fan controller at low cost you'd recommend?

Soooo I run my i5 processor at 4.4 Ghz while playing the game. And I have four of these: (two in front fior intake, one in back and one up top for exhaust) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't hear my machine. And it sits next to me on the ground.

6.98 per fan, from Amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0026ZPFCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ok cool, thanks for the advice! I was planning to pick up these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026ZPFCK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Mostly since I have prime and can get them sooner, but I imagine going for 140mm fans would be better in the long run. I'm not sure how much I plan to push the overclocking, if at all, but I think it really wouldn't hurt to have better airflow, no matter what I do.

I have 2 Cooler Master Blue LED 120mm fans and 1 Sony 24x DvD RW.

If I toss in an extra 5450, would you be willing to trade that for the mouse?

These

I also have a clear one that's of better quality. Came in a thermal take case.

I wouldn't be surprised if a $50 12V intake fan decreased stock performance. Here's one for $20 $10 and it has LEDs

I just realised my cooler may be an issue here. Im using the ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2

rated at 150W seems like it would be pushing the limits a bit... what do you think?

edit: im not sure if im misinterepreting the info but it seems like that article you posted is dealing with the 6700K and not the 6600K?

You mean this amazon page? At the Produktbeschreibung it sais: "Der Freezer 7 PRO Rev.2 ist kompatibel zu AMD FM2+, FM2, FM1, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2, 939, 754 und Intel 1366, 1150, 1151, 1155, 1156, 775".

I will get the boxed version just in case (also gives me a spare cooler. this one is pretty old already)

EDIT: You are right, it is not compatible. Damn. Thanks for the heads up.

Ended up getting a freezer 7 Pro

I mean, it's a bit better than before, but 85 was the highest I've seen it get after trying to run it as hard as I could.

Max cooler height is 140mm in this case

It's what it looks like in the case.

I don't know how I could have screwed up the application. I didn't bump it at all and screwed it in the first time it went flush, it's snug as can be now. I guess it's the best I can get in this mini itx case.

Sounds like a bad chip, and Ryzen is not known for overclocking.

However, it is possible you're hitting a thermal limit. 85 degree might be a safety protection cutoff setting on your motherboard.

I would look into a better tower cooler, Like Cryorig H5 if you have the money or maybe something like this if that's more your budget. If you get those temps under control, you might be able to push it more, plus I wouldn't run any chip pass 85 degree under stress 24/7.

Or you could just leave it alone. Up to you.

it was the x version of that cooler but even so, this one seems better
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multicompatible/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1511379177&sr=1-2&keywords=cpu+cooler+intel+1151&refinements=p_76%3A419158031

I have a crappy cooler as well and it's something I'd like to upgrade soon.

The H80i is a solid cooler and should handle moderate overclocking with ease but I think the h100i is more commonly recommended, the 540 should have enough space to accommodate it.

I wouldn't worry about SLI if I were you, I'd just stick with what you have for a couple more years and you can upgrade the CPU, mobo and GPU all around the same time.

Investing in a motherboard that only supports older chips doesn't make sense.

Hmm.

How much is your memory?

You can get 2 of these blocks:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-BLT4G3D1608DT1TX0CEU-Ballistix-Tactical-Memory/dp/B006YG96G8/ref=sr_1_57?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468286&sr=8-57&keywords=8gb+ram

with free shipping to Denmark for 350dkk (you have to buy 2 to get free shipping). At 1600MHz / CL8 (8-8-8-24) they're faster than your average memory.

You could also save a little by getting this case/motherboard combo:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Core-Series-Micro/dp/B004ZH18G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468241&sr=8-1&keywords=core+1000

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-M5A78L-M-USB3-Motherboard-Socket/dp/B0054U7HIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468214&sr=8-2&keywords=am3%2B

___

The Core 1000 cannot fit a Hyper 212 cooler... But the motherboard supports up to 140W CPUs so you can OC up to 3,9GHz safely.

This cooler:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Rev-2-Cooler/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468610&sr=8-1&keywords=freezer+7

Can fit in the Core 1000 micro-ATX case and can easily support a 3,9 or 4GHz overclock, while reducing the noise compared to the stock cooler.

Just my suggestion.

Overclock & see how far it goes. If it starts getting up into the 70s(Celsius) then get a better cooler. Also make sure you don't overclock your RAM while overclocking your CPU. Ensure your BIOS keeps the RAM at or below it's rated speed, this depends on how your motherboard handles the FSB:RAM ratio.

If you want to get a better heatsink/fan then I'd go for a Cooler Master TX3 or Arctic Cooling Pro 7.

Your link does list their cooling setups here:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/939/2/

They used water cooling for the Q9400, so you might not get as good of results with a heatsink/fan combo.

Ta. Yea. Serious brain fart there.
Prob http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Rev-2-Cooler/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1320278449&sr=1-1

I don't think I left any plastic cover on the back of the cooler, but I'll double check that tomorrow. I've been playing around with fan settings on the CPU fan, but I still can't get this thing under 70C+ when I'm running these games. I'm thinking maybe I should grab a better CPU cooler? Perhaps this?

Also, thanks so much for helping me out! It's such a relief have this problem nailed down.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multicompatible/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493184692&sr=1-2&keywords=arctic+cooling

$1 more at Amazon.

Is this needed too? https://www.amazon.it/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-raffreddamento/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2QBMVGMVZ9X7U&keywords=dissipatore+cpu&qid=1558356455&s=gateway&sprefix=dissip%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-3

Here you go. I have mine on an FX-8300 @4.1 with one intake and one exhaust fan nearby. At 100% load I hit 55C. It is quite effective in my experience.

Not sure exactly but I think it is similar to this one. Whichever Arctic freezer was out in ~2010.

http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multicompatible/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1420400048&sr=8-11&keywords=cpu+cooler

I'd keep the Mobo + CPU, but I'd then do this:

Case: Thermaltake v4 Black Edition

PSU: Corsair Builder Series 600w 80 PLUS

Heatsink: ARCTIC Freezer 7 pro Rev.2

Ram: Corsair Vengeance 2x 2gb

GPU: EVGA GTX 600 ti Superclocked Edition

HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB

Total (Including your Mobo + CPU pick): £647.65, including an After-Market Heatsink, $623 without heatsink.

Plus you can find these items cheaper elsewhere on the internet. These are all from amazon, and we all know Amazon overprice everything. I'd say you can save another $30 if you go to newegg or other places with these parts.

Hello,

Thanks for your response! I appreciate you trying to help me.

1. No, I don't really have crashing issues with other games. I mean to be honest I really only play CSGO but I can't remember the last time I had this issue with a game.
   
   
2. Yeah the 380 can run hot, do you know what's the highest load temp you recommend? I don't like my cards being above 75C under load but maybe I'm being overly cautious.
   
   
3. Yeah, my card is this one. As you can see its 4GB VRAM.
   
   
4. I'll download MSI afterburner now and try to run some tests when I get back home in a few hours. Does it matter that my card is from Sapphire and not MSI?
   
   I can tell you that from my own monitoring using AMD Settings, the task manager, and CPUID HWMonitor that the cpu would use about 70% from the game and about 10-15% from OBS Studio when I stream.
   
   It's an i5 2500k I've had for a while now, to be honest. Temps for the CPU generally don't go above 70-75C while playing and streaming. I don't know if that's considered high, but something the CPU hits full load while playing and streaming even with my aftermarket cpu fan.
   
   Generally, RAM doesn't get too high while playing. They recommend 8gb and I have 12 so I don't see that being the reason.
   
   Thanks once again, let me know if you need more info!!

Are artic cpu coolers trash?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G392ZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ordered this one after the cooler master one didn't fit in my case... second guessing it now a bit though... I don't want to fry my 6700...

personally, i wouldn't spend so much on cooling, i have the r5 1600 processor too and i got this crappy cooler and I've reached basically it's max overclock, 3.8Ghz @1.32v with no temp issues. It has been proven quite difficult to get it above 3.8 for many users so I wouldn't bother personally, I'd get a lower end cooler and a 1080ti. Maybe even look into getting a cheaper motherboard? the cheaper b350 chipset can still overclock.

>-Previous threads here-
>
>
>Objective:
>Going back to the original - The $500 build from /u/JDM_WAAAT. Since then, many of those parts prices have drastically increased in price or are unavailable. So new objective, build it better, for less! And oh man did we ever.
>
>
>Rules for buying used server-grade parts on eBay:
>
>1. Buy from highly-rated, reputable sellers
>2. When "Or best offer" is available, use it. Sellers will likely discount parts, often up to 30%.
>3. Shop around. There are many resellers selling the same exact parts on eBay, find the one with the best price.
>4. Scrutinize the details of the auction. For example, make sure CPU stepping / revision is correct to what you need. Make sure components are listed as functioning and not "for parts only".
>5. Do not, under any circumstances buy QA/QC/QS/ES labled CPUs. Only buy official used / refurbished Intel Xeon CPUs. Chips with this label are not guaranteed to work, and might break functionality with something as simple as a BIOS update.
>6. Check sources other than Ebay. /r/buildapcsales can be a huge help with this. Amazon or Newegg often have huge sales on some of the new parts. Shop around people!
>
>Build
>
>http://i.imgur.com/X1NzK7Z.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/r2d3lQp.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/AHQJmto.png
>
>Type|Item|Price (eBay) | OBO? | OBO price
>:----|:----|:----|:---- |:----
>CPU | 2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 2.00GHz, 8 core 16 thread | Incl w/ MOBO | |
>Motherboard | Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F+ Dual Socket | $281.98 | YES | $260
>RAM | 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3 ECC REG x 2 | $29.89 ea | YES | $25.00 ea
>CPU Cooler | 2x Arctic Freezer i11 CO | $19.22 ea | |
>PSU | EVGA 450W BT | $24.99 | |
>EPS Splitter | 8 Pin to Dual 8 Pin EPS Splitter | $6.00 | |
>24 Pin Extention | 12" 24 Pin Power Extention | $9.99 | |
>Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro | $79.99 | $15 MIR | $64.99
>Thermal Compound | Gelid GC Extreme | $12.99 | |
>Other | Tax, shipping, fees | $3.60 | |
>Total | | $517.76 | after OBO | $471
>Optional Extras | Sata cable 6 pack | $7.49 | |
>Optional Extras | Sata power splitter | $6.27| |
>
>---
>
>About this build:
>
>There you have it. If you recall, the original $500 build actually used this same CPU. BUT ONLY 1!. Here, we used 2, gave it more RAM, and all for over $50 less!
>
> General: I recently completed almost this exact build, same mobo, case, etc. Just ended up with different RAM config, and used dual E5-2630L CPU's that i got for a steal. This build will be using two Intel Xeon processors on Intel Socket 2011 motherboard with Quad-Channel DDR3-ECC RDIMM memory. It does not include specifications for SSD or HDD.
> CPU: The Intel Xeon E5-2650 is a high power, 8 core, 16 thread CPU that came out Q1 2012. 2.0Ghz clock, 2.8 Ghz turbo. It has a counterpart, the E5-2600L series who are also 8 cores, but low power. If you don't need quite as much Passmark power, these are also a power saving option at a slightly lower price point. MSRP when it was released was around $1100.00 USD Each. Plex Transcoder has true multi-threaded support and will take advantage of all 32 threads. So while this CPU might not be clocked as fast as what most of you are used to, the sheer amount of cores/threads will more than make up for it. Dual E5-2650's will score 15000 on passmark. Another thing to consider is that since the CPU is so cheap, you won't have to worry about it when it comes time to upgrade in the future. You can replace it with any V1 or V2 E5-2600 series cpu's. Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo in the future for about +4000 extra passmark score.
> Motherboard: Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F (Link to Supermicro Product Spec Page) This motherboard has dual 2011 sockets with a whopping 24 DIMM slots. With this build we'll be using only 8 of those available DIMMS, so there's a possible future upgrade. 6 SATA ports are standard, along with 2 SAS ports, for a total of 14 available SATA connections. Quad Gigabit NIC is also standard, plus IPMI.
> RAM: Here, we're using 8x4GB DDR3 ECC REG for quad channel support, and a total of 32GB of available memory. 32GB is a good value here. Another 2 sets would fill all 24 slots, for a total of 96GB.
> CPU Cooler: There's not much to say here. It's compatible, it's quiet, and it works. We won't be overclocking, so there's not much to worry about so long as it works. Also designed for continuous operations.
> PSU: It's cheap, powerful enough, and works. Not much more to say.
> Case: This case has full SSI-EEB+ (E-ATX with specialized mounting) support. Supports 6 3.5" hard drives two 2.5" SSDs, and two 5.25" bays natively. It's an all-around wonderful case, and it's really well-constructed (I have one, it's great). Also, one of the few cases that actually will fit this massive MOBO. In the front is a MASSIVE 200mm intake fan. Didn't even know they made them that big.
> Splitter/Extension These are necessary with the parts listed above to work. The power supply listed only has 1 8 Pin EPS connection for the CPU. Since we have 2, need a splitter. If you use a different PSU, check on the # of EPS connections. If it has 2, this part is not necessary. This board BARELY fits in the case. I know, I have both! Here's some pictures to show. Because of this, wiring the power can be a bit tricky, and to get it done in a clean way, need the 12" extension.
> Thermal Paste This is the best non-liquid metal thermal compound out there, hands down.
>
>Cautionary notes, other details
>
>1. Server equipment is stripped down to the bare minimum for compatibility and reliability. Because of this, features you are used to having might be missing - for example, some server motherboards don't have onboard audio. Also, most will use VGA onboard.
>2. Use a SSD for your host OS. This is likely where your Plex metadata will live, so if you're going to generate thumbnails and you have a sizeable library, make sure to get an appropriate size. I have about 20TB of media with thumbnails turned on, and 500GB is starting to feel tight. About 250GB is a good start for most people.
>3. Familiarize yourself with the BIOS options. Some may be different than consumer models. Make sure Hyper-threading is turned on in the BIOS. When in doubt, clear the CMOS / reset to default. You should verify that all 24-threads are showing in your host OS.
>4. Almost any OS will work. Includes ESXI, unRAID, FreeNAS, Linux, and Windows of course.
>5. Evaluate your RAID options. This motherboard has capabilities for onboard RAID, but that isn't for everyone.
>
>Upgrades, other parts
>
>1. Cheap storage in the form of $33 refurbished 2TB Hitachi Ultrastar hard drives. These are Enterprise level drives, great for use with RAID arrays.
>2. Sell the pair of E5-2650's & get Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo for 19,000 Passmark score. At time of posting these were $249.99 OBO w/ free shipping, extremely great value currently. If you're more concerned about power consumption, consider a pair of E5-2650L's for $41.50 each OBO at the time of this post, for a sweet ~14k passmark at only 70w TDP each.
>3. MORE RAM!
>4. Liquid cooling - If you plan on upgrading to V2's this is a good idea. Can get Corsair H55's for $60 each.
>5. DO IT ALL! If you want more power right now, sell the CPU's that come with the mobo for ~80 and grab a pair of E5-2660's for $240. Triple the RAM for an extra $100. Liquid cool the PSU's for an added $80. Finally, upgrade to a 550w semi modular 80+ gold psu for an extra ~$30 (one's on sale @ Newegg for $55 after MIR currently). Grand Total: around $840.
>
>FAQ
>
> Q: Aren't used parts unreliable?*

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is pretty much the best. Gelid GC-Extreme is the best bang for your buck

Safest(Non conductive+non-gallium based):
https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03-/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469795840&sr=8-5&keywords=thermal+grizzly

A little risky but best performance(1-2C over GC Extreme above and 4-5C over ASV but can destroy aluminium heatsinks and is conductive):
https://www.amazon.com/Coollaboratory-Liquid-Thermal-Interface-Material/dp/B0039RY3MM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469795811&sr=8-1&keywords=coollaboratory

For the undervolt you can easily push easily,

-120mV core ( moving to -150 you need to check for stability )

-100mV cache ( -120 may cause instability )

-100mV iGPU core

-100mV system agent

Make a throttlestop profile and make it start automatically. There is a ton of tutorials.

You can cut down the clock speeds since you cant see benefit above 3.8ghz .

Make 4.0ghz single core , 3.9ghz dual core , 3.8ghz quad core , or lower in a similar 0.1ghz decrease.

These downclocks will get the higher undervolting values possible , like -180 core.

​

In terms of significance Undervolt = Thermal Paste > Cooling Pad

​

​

Ok , start by watching these videos.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d03OQFx1b-Q ( @around 5min . )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biPpnH7KnXo full walkthrough of the previous model.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPUCYUiGWZQ general repaste video.

​

Kryonaut thermal paste

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B00ZJSF5LM/ref=pd_cp_147_2?pd_rd_w=6QWwH&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=2VQK9HCAAZZ9TZSYVQEK&pd_rd_r=ad661e5a-d062-4f33-a32c-3e1a34902b3b&pd_rd_wg=l7wzh&pd_rd_i=B00ZJSF5LM&psc=1&refRID=2VQK9HCAAZZ9TZSYVQEK

​

Gelid GC thermal paste.

https://www.amazon.com/GELID-GC-Extreme-3-5g-tooling-Conductivity/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/132-5597144-8566058?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002P5W4RU&pd_rd_r=0c20f2a1-7946-43c7-aa06-0c33d07e377a&pd_rd_w=aSR0f&pd_rd_wg=d95GD&pf_rd_p=d66372fe-68a6-48a3-90ec-41d7f64212be&pf_rd_r=SM1GYT0DYEXKHPTNBR90&psc=1&refRID=SM1GYT0DYEXKHPTNBR90

I used this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539151985&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gelid+gc+extreme&dpPl=1&dpID=31kZ%2B%2Bw7EwL&ref=plSrch

I would get a hyper 212 and some new thermal paste. NOT arctic silver. This is very very good. All together your talking a $50 investment for a lot of peace of mind.

Gelid extreme is a very good paste. I used both kryonaut and gelid, and gelid is a better value... temp difference is negligible.

https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520217785&sr=8-1&keywords=gelid+extreme

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme

This is the BEST paste available, and it has been the best for a very long time (based on benchmarks -- you can look them up if you'd like). Do not buy anything else.

Here’s a monitor and some thermal compound as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZSBW7V/?tag=pcpapi-20


https://www.amazon.com/GELID-GC-Extreme-3-5g-tooling-Conductivity/dp/B002P5W4RU

I used GC Extreme, cause it's cheaper but still close to Kryonaut's performance. Also, I put the Sunon x250 fan in my x240 and it has made it much quieter in general.

I purchased these two items and will use them when the laptop comes. It should be here in 10 days.

​

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTMNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh true that. And ya 80-90 is pretty high. I think someone else posted that it will shave off a good 20-30 with a delid. One thing I noticed also is to use good thermal paste. I tried artic silver at first but a buddy had some https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Decent drop in heat worth the extra couple dollar.s

no undervolting

I first re-pasted with Artic Silver 5 and didn't see any improvements.

Then re-pasted with the below and haven't had issues since.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002P5W4RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound TC-GC-03-A

https://imgur.com/a/RhIfExh This list includes everything except my two side monitors , my monitor stand and my thermal paste . I will not name the company I went with for a prebuilt nor will I answer your DM's about the company. It was a live and learn situation and I'm moving on. Next step is my crazier audio set up I will be saving for. Hope you like the build and I cant wait to be back to gaming!

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-High-Performance-Twin/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484235068&sr=8-1&keywords=Corsair%2BStatic%2BPressure&th=1 Is your best option. They are similar to the fans you had posted. But they are Static Pressure Fans, which are ideal for Radiators.

wouldn't it be better to get some decent fans for the front and reuse the old case fans for the top?

I was thinking of getting these for the front: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-High-Performance-Twin/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=lp_11036291_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755704&sr=1-5&th=1 .

And these for the back: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Air-AF140-Quiet-Single/dp/B007RESGGC/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B007RESGGC&pd_rd_r=J0FS9HPM6AJ264ASBQHP&pd_rd_w=LhVfW&pd_rd_wg=1qOmR&psc=1&refRID=J0FS9HPM6AJ264ASBQHP

I have these for my CPU cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2

They are damn near silent. $16 per fan.

If you want to compare to other fan products, here's what you want to look for:

• CFM (cubic feet per minute) - how much air does it push?
  
  
• Decibel levels - how much noise does it make at various speeds?
  
  You should look for ones like the fans I linked, that have rubber gaskets and liners on them if you can. It prevents the fans from rattling against the case.
  
  Noctua is also a very good company for quiet, high performance fans.
  
  Final note, you might want to consider another solution for a fan controller if the ones you have won't go below 35% and you want them to go lower. It sounds like the mobo software controller doesn't really want to do that. There are plenty of hardware and (free) software based fan controllers that could resolve that issue.

you can get a 2 pack of corsair sp fans for 20

You could always buy an S7-LN directly from Bitmain and do a silent fan modification. Since you are planning on just hosting one unit, you should be able to get away with less CFM if you pick a high static pressure fan. Make sure you place the unit on a 20amp+ circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468364334&sr=8-2&keywords=corsair+sp120

In reality, if you are just home mining, you should just repurpose an old computer to mine Ethereum. You can buy one R9 390 card and then resell for 60% of what you bought it for down the road when it's no longer profitable to mine.

Do you know a UK site that sells a pack of mini heatsinks with thermal pads?

Also the fans on the H75 are pretty dam loud at 100%, would these be a good replacement? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-Series-Edition-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2

k thx, it's this right http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Edition-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398291344&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+sp120+quiet+edition

Corsair SP120mm Twin Pack
AF series if the case isn't in a confined area.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-Series-Edition-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1404213627&sr=8-15&keywords=120+mm+case+fan

Interesting info, can you give a link or something for these comparisons. I am planning for my first loop when the 1080ti comes out and i will be using 140mm fans and rads ( a 420mm and a 280mm cooling only my 6700k @ 4.6 and the card ). Out of all the fans out there, the corsair sp 120 are by far the best looking ones for me, however there aren't at 140mm, only the led ones. If however there isn't really that much of a difference, i may as well get the af 140mm from corsair.

EDIT: Almost forgot, great job with the pc, it looks great

How about this?
Skip Ek rads, get two of these Black ice 360 gts: http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
Pick up 3 sets of twin packs of sp120 quiet editions: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495725662&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+sp120
Get a supremacy mx: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-acetal.html
That alone will get you better cooling and save you 35 dollars before the 10% off
Secondly, if you want to save more, go with barbs instead of compression fittings and use zip ties.
third, order from performance-pcs during the sale and save an extra 10%.
And yes, you can fit both of those rads in a define S, I have dual 360s in mine.
Edit: typo

sp120 are $25 on amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-SP120-Edition-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412434350&sr=8-3&keywords=sp120

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050006-WW-SP120-Quiet-Pressure/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502496690&sr=8-5&keywords=case%2Bfans&th=1

These are pretty good.

Something like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450036938&sr=8-1&keywords=sp120
Right now I'm using all NZXT stock fans as I had a 380 before and didn't have any issues like this. All drive bays are already taken out

How cheap is cheap? I like the SP120 Quiets

Alrighty then, your epic pain skills have convinced me haha

Which of these would you recommend? Keep in mind the Phantom has a built in fan controller in it.

This one

This one

Or this one

Thank you, I was thinking it was 3 pin. Would these fans be appropriate for each?


https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2?th=1

wait, stratch this, amazon says it's 3 pin, but newegg says it's 4..

So what are your thoughts on these fans: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-CO-9050006-WW/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1380596697&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+sp120+quiet

No, just their quiet edition ones. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESFR2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The ones that came with the cooler were way too loud.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESFR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 YAY.

AND ALL THE RINGS.

BUT ONE TO RULE THEM ALL.

>EDIT:
>
>I can understand the use of referral links and lots of people say they don't care. Nor do I honestly, except he wasn't contributing to this subreddit. He posted the exact setup 9 months (and 8 months) ago, this means he's here for the sole purpose to gain profit.
>
>Sure, he spent a lot of money, it's not disruptive, it's victimless, it doesn't hurt anyone and it's not a big deal. But it seems as if he's only here to earn money, he didn't even show a walkthrough of the computer build, he isn't a regular, he doesn't contribute to discussion. He posted multiple times like I've already mentioned and nothing has changed in all those posts.
>
>He's not here to show people his setup, he didn't even build anything. He's here to profit off us. Multiple posts of the same setup with all the affiliate links in every post, including links to something like a phone...
>
>Also, the problem is links like this act as infections. For approximately 24 hours (I think) after you've clicked a referral link, he will get a portion of the sale on anything you buy, so if you click a link to see the price of the something or investigate, he will earn money off everything you purchase in the next 24 hours off Amazon.
>
>_
>
>So earlier today I came across this post.
>
>I thought it was a bit suspicious how he documented absolutely every part of this "build" even though it isn't a build, it's a battlestation.
>
>He has since removed all information from his Reddit post, presumably after I commented about the Amazon links found in the post.
>
>It didn't look right because he provided links to every single item in this setup. All Amazon affiliate links, for him to make money off us.
>
>Not so bad though, right? Well, his Reddit username is "BlackWhite01", his Imgur username is "blackandwhitebattlestation", and he's been posting this absolutely identical set up on both Imgur and Reddit multiple times for a year.
>
>He did not intend to show off his battlestation, or even his computer build, he intended to come here and make money off of /r/battlestation and /r/buildapc mainly, but he's posted to a lot of other subreddits as well - presumably to pay off this setup and the ridiculous chair ($1,500).
>
>What really pisses me off is that he's also included affiliate links to stupid products like his phone. His phone?! It's fucking /r/buildapc.
>
>Alright, so there's a run down of all his Imgur and Reddit post history.
>
>Please do not click on any of the Amazon links, I've posted all items without any affiliations below.
>
>--
>Imgur
>--
>
> Submitted Imgur albums!
>
> Imgur Album 1.
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> Imgur Album 2
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> Imgur Album 3
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> Imgur Album 4
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> Imgur Album 5
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> Imgur Album 6
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> Imgur Album 7
>
> Imgur Album 8
>
>--
>Reddit
>--
>
> /u/BlackWhite01 - archive link: /u/BlackWhite01
>
> Reddit Post 1
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> Reddit Post 2
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> Reddit Post 3
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> Reddit Post 4
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> Reddit Post 5
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> Reddit Post 6
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> Reddit Post 7
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> Reddit Post 8
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> Reddit Post 9
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> Reddit Post 10
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>* Reddit Post 11
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>_
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>
>Below is a list of all the items found in the pictures. These links are NOT affiliate, I spent an enormous amount of time to provide you with the unaffiliated links.
>
>This subreddit and others shouldn't be focused on making money, it should be the exact opposite, just sharing our hobbies, enthusiasm, skills and to have open discussions without the aim being to profit.
>
>Screw this guy for trying to profit.
>
>Items
>--
>
>PC Specs:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>----|----|----
>Processor | Intel i7-4790k | Link
>Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | Link
>Storage | Samsung 850 Pro 256GB | Link
>Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series | Link
>Video Card | ASUS GTX 980 STRIX 4GB | Link
>Case | NZXT H440 | Link
>PSU | Corsair RM750 | Link
>PSU Sleeved Cables | Corsair Power Cable Kit | Link
>
>Fans:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Front Intake | Noctua NF-F12 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair SP120 | Link
>Rear Exhaust | Corsair AF140| Link
>
>Lights:
>
>Name | Link
>---|---|----
>RGB Lights | Link
>White Lights | Link
>
>Accessories:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Monitors | Dell UltraSharp 23.8" | Link
>Mounts | VideoSecu Articulating Arm | Link
>Mouse | Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse | Link
>Mousepad | Zalman Accessory AMP1000 | Link
>Keyboard | Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz | Link
>Phone | Motorola Moto X 16GB | Link
>Phone Stand | Cooler Master JAS | Link
>Speakers | Harman Kardon SoundSticks | Link
>Webcam | Logitech HD Pro Webcam | Link
>Headphones | Samsung LEVEL | Link
>Headphone Holder | Ikea Bjärnum Folding Hook | Link
>Strip for Holder | Command Mounting Refill Strips | Link
>White Videocard Backplate | Performix 11207 Plasti-Dip | Link
>RAM Light Bar | Corsair Dominator Platinum LightBar Kit | Link
>
>Other:
>
>
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Desk | Euro Style Donald Desk | Link
>Chair | Embody Chair by Herman Miller | Link
>Clock | Modern Clocks | Link
>Lights | Philips 259982 | Link
>Wire Cover | Omnimount CMK | Link
>
>Triple Monitor Wallpapers
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>

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/

glue these shit on the chip

What about the mosfets? I was thinking about buying little heatsinks for the things I circled in blue.

Thanks a ton for this info!

I have small sinks coming for my VMRs, I got these. I figure I'll jam them on as tightly as I can to make something like the one-piece sink described in the guide you linked. The 92mm fan I went with is pretty high CFM too so I think I should be ok. Depending on how many I use I'll throw the rest on my RAM.

What I didn't know was the fact that cgminer would want a temp so I will definitely get the adapter.

Well you could get those baby heatsinks and just stick them on! That's what /u/Hubris_draws_stuff did on his when he used these brackets on his 780's (which he got with a huge overclock from /u/psikeiro).

I put these on these on the gddr5 chips. I cleaned the adhesive off of them and used thermal pads to attach them.

Cosmos ® 8 PCS Copper VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00637X42A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p-GFAbB3SJHEM

I couldn't find low profile copper heatsinks small enough for the vrms on my 480 so I used these aluminum ones with some more thermal pads. Most small copper ones were tall, and I wasn't sure if it would fit together once the gpu cooler was attached .

Cosmos ® 20 PCS mini Aluminum Chips VGA RAM Cooling Heatsinks heat sink cooler + Cosmos Cable Tie https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YcHFAbPZYMDVB

These might do

Enzotech Mosfet Passive Heat Sink, 6.5 x 6.5 x 12 mm, Copper, 10-pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLDIHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DlHFAbSCQFKPV

you should always put heat sinks on mosfets. they get hot. its their job. you can get some heatsinks for less than 1$ a piece retail, and they are self adhering.
the steppers heat sinks are the same. https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O

couldn't you use these? https://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/dp/B007XACV8O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550107694&sr=8-2&keywords=cosmos+heatsink

​

they're aluminum but really small, should fit right?

How about some of these? Stick them on the metal heat spreader(or directly on the chips if it doesn't have one) of the card.

Motherboards shouldn't need cooling specifically as long as you have decent airflow. As far as I know there's no such thing as a chipset cooler, but if you want you can get some thermal adhesive and some tiny heatsinks like these. Bear in mind it would probably be a permanent modification.

Will this work

No problem :)

Also, I'd recommend getting some heatsinks for your VRMs and some thermal tape to stick them on. I've heard that the fan on the G12's predecessor the G10 hasn't been adequate for cooling them and that the heatsinks would make a huge difference in terms of temps. AFAIK, the same should apply for the G12 as not much has changed from the G10 in that regard. I'll leave a couple of links below for what you should get for your VRMs, as well as some advice from an expert on NZXT's liquid cooling brackets for graphics cards, which includes instructions on how to apply the thermal tape and heatsinks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XACV8O/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EQ23OQA/

Instructions + advice (note that this is for the Kraken G10, but most things covered should apply to the G12):
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/233847-how-to-watercool-a-cpu-single-gpu-for-under-200-in-the-us/

So the cooler on my XFX 290x DD broke, and I currently have one in transit to me. I plan to put these on my VRMs to cool them, but I'm not sure what thermal paste I should use on the GPU die. Would Arctic Silver 5 or the Cooler Master paste that comes with the Hyper 212 evo be better? I understand AS5 has a long curing time but the temps on my i7 have gradually gotten lower and lower.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007XACV8O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483242946&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vrm+heatsink&dpPl=1&dpID=31yBzaLRwFL&ref=plSrch


Just get these heatsinks if you're worried since you're pushing the max TDP. Stick them onto everything including MOSFETs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I used these for the vrm

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I ordered 2 sets of these for the memory chips

http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Aluminum-Cooling-Heatsinks-cooler/product-reviews/B007XACV8O/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

Would it even be worth it to buy these?

The VRMs will be cooled to an extent by the white 92mm fan that's included on the Kraken G10. Since you have the same card as OP, you could follow his route and buy these heatsinks he used to cool the VRMs better.

Edit: missing word "card"

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835426042

Here are the links to the different heatsinks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GN969QM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KKY3KI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XACV8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked up some magnetic filters from amazon with ultra fine mesh. They work well and are easy to remove and clean.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_x702AbVGY1V4H

I have the same chassis and I loveeee the simplicity of it. I have a problem with dust getting into the top fan grate so I bought this. It might not be an issue for you but just a suggestion. Sweet setup. :)

Establish positive air pressure in your case (more intake than exhaust).

Then put filters on your intake fans:

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Filter-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U

You could find some appropriate fabric and make a filter yourself like this. I personally just have one of these 120mm magnetic filers covering my PSU intake. I don't have any filtering on the side as it doesn't pull in quite as much dust. Though my graphics card isn't a blower style card, so I just open the case once every couple of months and give it a little blast with canned air. But, if I had a blower style card I'd want it filtered as you'd have to open up the card to give it a good clean. If you don't want to make your own filter, something like this might be a good option.

Yea, been there, was annoying to clean this up. But! There's a way to prevent that, or at least make the clean-up disassembly much less frequent. This is for a unit which is out of warranty, of course, because once you'll do this - your warranty is void:

1. Take a 120mm or 92mm holesaw.
   
   
2. Remove the PS4's cover panel which sits above the fan's intake.
   
   
3. Drill a hole in this panel using one of those holesaws.
   
   
4. Screw a fan mesh filter on top of the hole you just drilled, something like:
   https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U (there are many models, both in 92mm and 120mm sizes, choose whichever you want). You might need fan screws if these don't come with screws, alternatively you can just use glue gun to glue the frame of the filter to the PS4's panel.
   
   
5. Add stick-on silicone legs to the "bottom" panel of your PS4 if the hole you drilled happened to be on that side and you like to lay it flat instead of making it stand vertically.
   
   That's it, problem solved! Most of the dust will accumulate on the surface of the fan filter, which you can simply vacuum off.

You can get magnetic dust filters, or even snap-ons if you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501342919&sr=8-5&keywords=computer+fan+dust+filter

You've got a couple of options the way I see it.

• Buy or make a dust filter, a magnetic one like this is a fairly eloquent solution.
  
• Create some kind of cover panel for it. This might be a bit more of a task than the filter. You could try to find some kind of black plastic which you could cut out that shape from, including the screw mounts to make it look totally 100% legit.
  
• Grab some foam from a department store, cut out a 120mm x 120mm square, and screw it in covering the mounting spot on the inside, similar to how the Define R4 does.
  
  Also, when your PC is off there's almost a hole in there for dust to fall through anyway.

Fan filters you can buy anywhere. Example: https://smile.amazon.com/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/

NZXT, Phanteks, and Fractal Design make some cases with filters for the intakes.

Here's a case with a HEPA filter: http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?area=en&pid=525

What about something like: http://www.computerdust.com/products/cpu_covers.html to put over your existing cases? Looks ugly as hell, though.

I've used these magnetic ones.

https://www.amazon.ca/Silverstone-Filter-Magnet-Cooling-FF123B/dp/B00ARB5E8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505830535&sr=8-1&keywords=120mm+filter

The best way to keep your receiver cool and minimize dust is to have more intake and to add dust filters onto the intake. I know everyone on here is telling you the opposite, but if you go over to one of the PC subreddits and ask them, this is what they'll tell you.

Amazon Link to a 120mm fan dust filter

I also suggest you browse this website: Coolerguys.com

Source

No, your feedback is still appreciated! To be honest, I might consider buying a second one and mounting it outside now that you say there's nothing wrong with it. I just didn't know if it had any effect.

These cougar fans look also quite impressive. I honestly don't know anything about case fans so I just checked 120mm case fan and checked what had decent reviews, to be honest. I might just cancel my order and pick these up instead, thanks!

Also, I hope you don't mind answering, what fan filter do you use?

I was looking at these and they seemed pretty decent.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ARB5E8U/ref=od_aui_slice_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

M80 I would recommend a mesh fan grille cover over that bottom intake fan if you don't have one on there already, saves you a lot of dusting down the line- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARB5E8U/ Looks nice though!

~~NCIX isn't even listed on Tom's Part Picker guide.
This was a nice find I've been looking to overclock for a while now and this is an important first step.
I tried to uber price beat on the ME site but they're already out of stock.~~

For $7 more, because they offer free shipping, you can get the U14S from Amazon.

fuck you imgur - I edited the pictures so they arent sideways, and you make them sideways again!

The PC Part Picker

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $279.99
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X61 106.1 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $139.99
Thermal Compound | TUNIQ TX-4 Extreme Performance 1g Thermal Paste | $9.69 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z97-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $109.99
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $175.00
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $116.99
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $249.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $99.99
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked Video Card | $529.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT H440 (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $83.98 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) | $132.98 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Case Fan | Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan | $19.99
Other| NZXT Grid+| $29.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2118.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-06 17:54 EDT-0400 |


Most of this was purchased at MicroCenter in NJ, but here is the short story behind this.

I recently (like a week ago) got married to a wonderful woman, and started a new job as an Exchange Server "Lead" (e.g: manager) so I decided to treat myself. I originally picked up a fractal design define R4 + the mobo / proc below (it was so damn cheap, I couldn't say no) and this. I was pretty content the first week until I started trying stress tests and actually looking at the idle / stress temps.. and they weren't as wonderful as I would hope due to the amount of noise this machine made..

Originally with Article Silver 5 + the cooler above in the Fractal Design Define R4 I was pushing 30-40C idle, and all the way upwards to 65C during a 10 minute stress test. For the noise I was getting, I was not too happy so I drove back to MicroCenter and picked up a few other things:

• x3 140mm Corsair Air Series Quiet fans
  
• Kraken x61
  
• Tuniq TX-4 paste (I read some reviews on it)
  
• NZXT H440
  
  Ironically at the same the Grid + came in so I was stoked and built this baby out. I was pretty happy with the end results but here are some notes for those who are looking at the H440 from NZXT as there "next case"..
  
  
• Utilize the x2 2.5 HDD and 3.5 HDD bay. If you are like me using dual 2.5 SSD, you can the power by using this
  
• If you give two shits about noise, DONT USE the fan hub! It is NOT power regulated, and will spin all fans at 100%. Grab a Grid +, for the price its actually not that bad (the price below is from NewEgg.com)
  
• Take all the shelves out, better airflow (that is if you followed my first recommendation, which you probably didn't ಠ_ಠ)
  
• TAKE YOUR TIME. The back side of this case is narrow as all hell, and there is not much clearance from the back of the motherboard mount to the back panel. I have built out a ton of computers, but this was the trickiest in terms of cable management.
  
  After all this headache - I am now around 50C (that was the max I saw) during the same burnin test as I ran with the "older" hardware.
  
  I am going to use this cooler + case (the fractal design define R4) for my wife's computer, so its not a complete wash.
  
  TL;DR
  
  I upgraded my machine, and could not be happier. Its also quit and cool, which is nice.
  
  edit
  
  A sentence + formatting. Forgot * is used in the formatting

I would change your Scythe CPU cooler to the Noctua NH-U14S or NH-U12S. The air cooler is fairly large so it's best to check clearance with memory sticks / case.

Here is noise level comparison per Anandtech

I do believe imo, that a 2GB is good for even 2x 1080p gaming. From what I read, you won't see much of a performance gain from 2GB to 4GB. This would vary from game to game most likely though.

As for a case, whats your budget? I've never researched quiet cases, but it's something I should probably check up on. You can always remove all the fans from your existing case and replace them with Noctuas.

Yea, I think I may have jumped the gun on that purchase. I'd like to avoid going with an AIO. What do you think of the Noctua?

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U14S-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00C9FLSLY?SubscriptionId=AKIAIPHVZTVH6LZ5BFZA&tag=hawk-future-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00C9FLSLY&ascsubtag=tomshardware-6975418178564202952-20